# ABA turbo setups



## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

My GTI is going turbo shortly, and I'd like to see how some of you ran the piping, intakes, etc etc. The more unique the better! I could definitely use the ideas. Besides, there's a mk4 2.0T thread, why not make a mk3 ABA turbo thread? :beer: along with the pics, please post any pertinent information (ie turbo specs, software, fueling, etc). I want to see what people are running! thanks in advance! :thumbup:


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

no one wants to show off their hard work? come on guys!


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## ABT96GTI (Jun 2, 2009)

We NEED this thread. The new Vortex search is BS...


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

thats how i feel dude. i cant find any good pics of setups all in one place. this would be a good place to do that, as well as a good place to post build threads, answer questions, etc for the ABA platform. :thumbup:


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

There is a thread in the forced induction section with 100+ pics of 2.0T engine bays... might be hard to find but i've seen it.


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

mk3 ones? i see plenty of mk4s, but no mk3s. maybe i missed it.


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## akid420 (Apr 23, 2009)




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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

definitely some good examples. keep em comin!


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## adcompvw (Aug 16, 2003)

Current setup:


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

damn! whats the specs on that one? ^^^


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Just out of curiosity, is anyone running a turbo setup on an ABA engine with a stock valvetrain and bottom end? Also, is anyone running a similar setup with a QUIET blow-off/recirc valve and a relatively quiet exhaust? 

What kind of power (and 1/4-mile times, if the car's been run) do they put down without sacrificing daily-driver reliability? 

Thinking of turbo-ing mine as an interim solution, as it will be at least a few years before I can afford to spend real money on a new car and I love my GTI (as well as the last 2 ABA Jettas I've had), except that it's so damned slow. I don't expect to beat any V8's in a light-to-light duel, but it would be nice to have a little pep. The only catch is I can't afford to sacrifice much, if any, reliability as this is my only car for now...so less hp with more reliability is fine with me, I'd also like the thing to stay as quiet as possible, I don't want to build a race car here, just something that can move out of its own way and not get smoked by a mini-van.


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## Minor_Threat (May 12, 2009)

Anony00GT said:


> Just out of curiosity, is anyone running a turbo setup on an ABA engine with a stock valvetrain and bottom end?


 its called kinetics stage 1 

you use the stock MAF housing 
Stock compression ratio 
change the injectors to #30


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Minor_Threat said:


> its called kinetics stage 1
> 
> you use the stock MAF housing
> Stock compression ratio
> change the injectors to #30


 Are you running this setup? 

A quick google search came up with Kinetics turbo kits. Looks like with the "Stage 1" kit, I'd also have to buy the intercooler separate (I wouldn't consider running a turbo setup without an intercooler)...and it's not clear if that combination includes all the plumbing I'd need or if I would have to fabricate anything. What kind of tuning would I need if I were to go with that setup though? 

I also noticed that their "Stage 2" kit comes with everything, including a chip, and seems to be a more complete kit. Obviously it's more expensive, but probably worth it, no?


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## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

using this little baby. 









my sweet custom downpipe 









current 2.5" exhaust. all stainless, magnaflow muffler and high flow cat 









moch up in the car 









running a forge 007 recirculated 






















































finished product 



















Specs: 

Adjustable cam gear set at -1º currently 
Autotech 270º cam 
Autotech HD valve springs 
TT Titanium Valve retainers 
Bone stock bottom end 
C2 stage 2 440cc 
Bosch 440cc Green top Injectors 
Forge 007 DV 
Garret Airresearch T3 turbo .42 ar compressor / .32 ar turbine (its a baby, spools at 2200 rpm. lol) 
2.5" full stainless exhaust turbo back, Magnaflow high flow cat, Magnaflow straight through muffler. 
VR6 Maf housing 
Ebay FMIC 

Intercooler piping goes as follows 
1.75" out of turbo - 2" from turbo to IC - 2.25" on each side of IC - 2" from IC to adapter to 2.5" to throttlebody 

inlet piping - 3" from filter through maf to reducer - custom made 2.5" to cobrahead angle on turbo. 


Soon to come... Garrett t3 .60/.63 hopefully in in 2 weeks  

**fixed pic links**


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

nice post drracing...i liked the build thread-ish layout, and the information presented at the bottom. :thumbup: we definitely need more like it. 

Im putting a kinetics stage 2 kit on my car currently, and it did come with an intercooler and all the piping. Stg 1 is a complete kit as far as i know, and it doesnt need to be intercooled (i think?) hence why its not included in the kit.


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## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

yea a good thread about aba turbos to help anyone out that is trying to do one. The kinetics stage 1 has no intercooler. It's not really pushing enough boost to NEED one altought it would help.


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

gt2871r .63 
kinetic manifold 
ATP ultimate internal wastegate 
3" downpipe and 3" cat delete 
2.25" TT exhaust 
wiseco 9:1 pistons 
268/260 TT cam 
034 Motorsport IC stand alone 
genesis 415cc injectors 
BBM intercooler 

this pic is with a t3 60 trim 








comparison of stock wastegate to ATP one 








Pic the gf sent me since im overseas and its at home waiting for me to drive it to WF 2010! 









I'll post better pics of the turbo setup when I get home.


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

looks good man. i cant wait till mines done so i can cruise :thumbup: 

what kinda modifications would you need to make to get the mk4 intake manifold to work? the throttle body is on the opposite side correct? so it would just be make the piping work to accommodate that or is it more complicated?


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## danz44 (May 14, 2010)

i also notice no distributor and a coil pack there... how is that accomplished? im pretty new to vw's sorry if its a stupid question.


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

zorba...do you have a dyno or any power estimates? im kinda curious to see what that setup is pushing


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Mine. 

Ross racing forged pistons 8.5:1 ratio 

Garret T3/T4 57 trim with .63 

kinetic aba exhaust manifold with wastgate port 

Tial 38mm 

Custom intercooler piping 

Kinetic Motorsport 350 Intercooler 

70mm MAF Housing 

BBM 2.0L ABA Fuel Rail 

C2 Motorsports 42# Software 

Bosch Greentop 440 cc injectors 

obd1 aba bottom end with factory forged rods and oil squirters 

Old style HKK/USRT SRI 

Rerouted HKS SSQ bov 

Walbro 255 external fuel pump 

Autotech 270 cam 

Autotech big a$$ plug wires 

NGK BKR7E's plugs gapped to .24 

O2A Trans swap 

sprung 6 puck clutch masters clutch 

300whp


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## shannonekermans (Oct 9, 2007)

had any problems with the wideband being so close to the turbo?


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

danielzeilstra said:


> i also notice no distributor and a coil pack there... how is that accomplished? im pretty new to vw's sorry if its a stupid question.


 Thanks  Not stupid at all, the engine management allows me to use a coil pack to control timing so instead of relying on the distro to retard/advance timing i can just type in the degrees in the computer. You can either leave the old distributor in place, or get the "dizzy gizzy" from BBM which basically keeps the gear from the old distributor and puts it onto a cap so your oil pump still turns. 

I had dynoed it before when I had a lysholm at 10 psi at 197 hp. The new setup feels so much faster, my guess is easily 225-250, maybe more. The turbo is good for 400, but a stock 8v head isnt. I'll find out at Waterfest hopefully. 

ON the note of that wideband, mine is pretty much just as close. Remember, N/A setups put it in the manifold, turbo setups get an overall A/F ratio after the turbo, closer the better.


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

2pt, that is a nice setup you got there  


the mk4 mani is a pretty easy setup. You need both upper and lower, I suggest getting a VR throttle cable, and then its a matter of swapping sensors and vacuum lines. Depending on the manifold year and model, you may need to tap for the IAT sensor like I did. You also need to either get a new valve cover, or a PVC oil cap combo since the mk4 mani kinda goes over the area that the pvc is in stock on mk3's


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

2pt slow where do you make full boost? 


Mine 

obd2 block and head,full rebuild 
at 270 cam 
TT valve train 
TT adjustable cam gear 
atp manifold 
tial 38mm gate 
Shortrunner(new one coming) 
2.5'' ic piping 
front mount 
garrett 60-1 
3inch exhaust (1 silverline muffler) 
3inch maf 
c2 #44 setup 

should be around 240whp on 15psi(maxing the stock pump out)


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## shannonekermans (Oct 9, 2007)

thanks zorba was just told it should be a certain distance away or will damage the sensor really fast. but if its working for you guys then ill be doing the same. 
thanks again


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## Minor_Threat (May 12, 2009)

Anony00GT said:


> Are you running this setup?
> 
> A quick google search came up with Kinetics turbo kits. Looks like with the "Stage 1" kit, I'd also have to buy the intercooler separate (I wouldn't consider running a turbo setup without an intercooler)...and it's not clear if that combination includes all the plumbing I'd need or if I would have to fabricate anything. What kind of tuning would I need if I were to go with that setup though?
> 
> I also noticed that their "Stage 2" kit comes with everything, including a chip, and seems to be a more complete kit. Obviously it's more expensive, but probably worth it, no?


 no I'm not running a turbo setup, I'm an N/A guy. 

those kits should be complete bolt ons, stage 2 I believe comes with the intercooler and a headgasket spacer to lower compression also comes with different software for lower compression and more fueling. I think it also comes with a 3in MAF housing and green top injectors.


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## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

shannonekermans said:


> had any problems with the wideband being so close to the turbo?


 well it was working ok. my innovate lc-1 kinda went out on me. thought it was cause the sensor was too close to the turbo so i boved it right before the cat like stock location and plugged the ones by the turbo. it went out again on me 2 weeks later. o btw, ive heard alot messing up with innovate widebands. gonna get me an aem soon. the engine 02 sensor held up just fine though. makes it amazing to work on with it up there, so easy to get to


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 2pt slow where do you make full boost?


 full boost around 4500 it will hit around 10-12 psi at 3800. I wouldnt suggest this turbo unless you like your power to be more on the top end.


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

My old car...Currently scarring babys in MD. 









































































10 and 24psi


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

dave, i was just reading the eurotuner with your car in it and looking at the specs and thinking about the amount of work you mustve put into that thing. its gorgeous. i know it was for sale a while ago, and im guessing you sold it? someone got a sweet car, thats for sure. 

now finish mine damnit! haha jk jk :thumbup: i cant wait to get it back. im gonna be so proud! :beer:


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## 02riegergti (Jun 8, 2005)

salsa gti who made that short runner intake? I WANT one


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## shannonekermans (Oct 9, 2007)

my old setup with endless issues of knocking on things 










and the soon to be new setup


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

i believe salsa made a comment about his short runner in another thread when someone else asked him about it... 

"its what you get when you take a mk4 manifold and cut it and weld stuff together" 

looks about right :thumbup: haha


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yea mine makes full boost around 4800 with the 60-1 


What oil restrictor are you using


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

I was wondering when Salsa would make an appearance, now where is GTIjoejoe


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## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

salsa i wanna make sex to your old car, specially that manifold :laugh:


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> ye
> 
> 
> What oil restrictor are you using


 Directed towards me? I dont use an oil restrictor. I called a rep at Garret and was told not to use one. Also called Kinetic's to get a second opinion, and talked to Killa from which I bought the turbo and all said not to use one...


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

Taken from turbobygarrett.com 



> Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yea i know garret says not use one.I just have seal leakage!


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## danz44 (May 14, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> yea i know garret says not use one.I just have seal leakage!


i would look at your oil drain and make sure it is optimal. always sloping, never horizontal, and never EVER uphill. also, if the ID is less than 1/2 inch, its begging for problems. i always try to use 5/8ths or larger on my oil drains. 
another thing to look into is your PCV evacuation system. if you are building up significant pressure in the block the oil will find the easiest way out.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

its not the oil Drain.I do a copy of the mk4 factory setup


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## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

finally got mine back:










but now i have this crap to deal with:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4921162-problem-with-recently-turbo-d-2.0-8v

anyone have any other suggestions?

hopefully ill be getting a different fuel pump to put in and try on monday. also, anyone have a walbro in line pump they wanna sell for cheap? haha


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

looks gooooood!


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

*Good idea?*

.


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

stay away

save the headaches do it right the first time


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## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

indeed. your lookin for a world of hurt if you go that route. end up spending more money than if you just got quality parts the first time around. fitment issues from cheap parts.


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

,


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## danz44 (May 14, 2010)

papo98jetta said:


> True but I've been seeking more power for a bit. My car has tt chip, custom Exhaust Systems, intake, and a 100 shot of NOS. I only have 500 dollors cash, and a set of 325i seats for trade. I've seen people run the ebay turbo kits for a long time with no prob. the only thing that would normaly brake it the ebay turbo after 20,000+ miles. Some of my friends ( VTEC lovers ) tell me to get the kit and go upgradeing things little by little.....Still no good?


you sound like you have already decided what you are going to do, so why even ask? sometimes the best way to learn a lesson is the hard way... i know it never fails for me.

also, that turbo is a 44 trim. 3inch exducer 2inch inducer. do the math


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

danielzeilstra said:


> also, that turbo is a 44 trim. 3inch exducer 2inch inducer. do the math


As you can see I don't know much that is why I ask. But what are the things that can go wrong?


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## eeshnips (Nov 17, 2008)

The ebay tubing is real cheap and usually needs to be modded to fit also it doesnt have faired ends, the clamps are junk, the turbo will last maybe 10,000 miles thats getting lucky. Your just asking for problems not only installing the kit but also in reliability. It sounds like a good idea because its cheap but yours going to end up buying everything in the kit again so why not but the good stuff the first time and take your time?


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

.


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## eeshnips (Nov 17, 2008)

I suggest you do some research on quality kits sense you dont know much about it. I wouldnt piece anything together if you are unsure of what you need.


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

*Salsa GTI*, what turbo?

*Zorba2.0*, do you have the 2871 on yet? If so, how is it compared to your T360?


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

Ill play. Not a true 2.0ABA but it is a hybid frankengti
My setup:
PG Bottom End
ABA OBD2 Head 
T3/T04e 57 Trim
Currently on Digifant 1.
Custom grill mounted intercooler
2.5'' dp and exhaust to Borla muffler and mk4 oem tip.
Currently running 13-15psi depending on the day.haha.


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## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

Nastyboost said:


> Ill play. Not a true 2.0ABA but it is a hybid frankengti
> My setup:
> PG Bottom End
> ABA OBD2 Head
> ...



Is that a BOV from an eclipse?


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

eeshnips said:


> I suggest you do some research on quality kits sense you dont know much about it. I wouldnt piece anything together if you are unsure of what you need.


I have done some research in the past and the Kinetic kits cost a lot of money. I guess I'll part one up.... I HATE WAITING!!


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

GloryFreak said:


> Is that a BOV from an eclipse?


It was. Couldn't get it to work properly whether it be non-modded or crushed. Using a Greddy Type RZ now.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

chris i forgot how clean that bay is!


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## NoShow20x96 (May 18, 2009)

can we get more aba with mk4 intake manifold pics??????

awesome


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

elRey said:


> *Zorba2.0*, do you have the 2871 on yet? If so, how is it compared to your T360?


It's on, but I don't come home till next week. My friend that put it on said it is much smoother and feels a lot stronger even at only 7psi. I need a new clutch so it wont be getting turned up until spec 3 gets put on this winter. I scheduled my R&R just in time to make Waterfest. Plenty of pics and vids coming in the next 2 weeks


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

Daskoupe said:


> chris i forgot how clean that bay is!


Not so much anymore. Really needs a SRI to round everything out. Its clean but it could be alot cleaner with a polished out SRI and my G60 V/C with all new polished out aluminum piping. In time though


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## LashCM (Jul 1, 2010)

These are some sweet set ups!!!


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

Is thare any other place other then the oil pan to return the oil from the turbo?


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

I would assume not without building up pressure in the return line. For the return line you was to have as free of flow as possible, and for this, most people run it straight down, or as straight as possible, into the oil pan. This way, gravity works with you for returning the oil.


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## elias (Dec 4, 2005)

im not having any luck with the search either and this seems like the thread that will deliver. anyone know the stock # or cc of the stock aba injectors?


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

I want to say like 17-19 or so.


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

Check the part # on this site.http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm. IIRC the factory aba injectors are something like 19lb/hr at 3.0bar Fuel Pressure with the factory regulator in place. If you got the injectors in front of you look them up on that site i just gave. Hope its helpful.


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

Zorba2.0 said:


> I would assume not without building up pressure in the return line. For the return line you was to have as free of flow as possible, and for this, most people run it straight down, or as straight as possible, into the oil pan. This way, gravity works with you for returning the oil.


Thanks


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

look at all the tiny turbos!:laugh:


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

Biggers not always better. To some sizing is not just about magazines displaying GT30rs across every page. It is preference with some to use a unit that creates nice harmony with their driving style. Besides we cant all be running Holsets


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Nastyboost said:


> Biggers not always better. To some sizing is not just about magazines displaying GT30rs across every page. It is preference with some to use a unit that creates nice harmony with their driving style. Besides we cant all be running Holsets


well duh! i prefer to not have full boost at 5k!:laugh:


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> well duh! i prefer to not have full boost at 5k!:laugh:


Depends on what Holset your running. Id say anything larger than the 12cm2 ex.housing would not be so fun to drive daily on. Compressor selection is pretty nice on the Holsets. Exhaust housing selection is a different story.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Nastyboost said:


> Depends on what Holset your running. Id say anything larger than the 12cm2 ex.housing would not be so fun to drive daily on. Compressor selection is pretty nice on the Holsets. Exhaust housing selection is a different story.


tru story.


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

Another noob ?

How do I run the vac lines for the turbo and wastegate? Done some searching and nothing :/


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## Asmahaas (Jul 7, 2010)

Hi im from south africa currently running a rv block xflo head with a 1.6td/ar60 hybrid custom intake with 2.6 carravelle pistons is this thread still about aba turbos?:screwy:


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

papo98jetta said:


> Another noob ?
> 
> How do I run the vac lines for the turbo and wastegate? Done some searching and nothing :/


 Depending on the style of wastegage. If its an internal unit ( part of the turbo ) then you just run the vacuum line straight from the compressor housing nipple to the wastegate canister nipple. If there are two it is most likely the bottom port. Post pics if you need to for better help. Some internal and external wastegates have more than one vacuum nipple. Sometimes people use both but this is not necessary. Just my .02


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

just got my ihi gm-8 whats up


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## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

16lb on stock compression with a .60/.63 when's she gonna blow? lol. gonna put a headspacer in soon i hope. she seems like she keeps blowing out spark in boost occasionally. old plugs


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> 2pt slow where do you make full boost?
> 
> 
> Mine
> ...





Salsa GTI said:


> My old car...Currently scarring babys in MD.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Straight up! daskoupes turbo setup has heavily inspired mine. These 2 setups are how you have to do it. Keeping the 2.0 head on is uggglllyy! No offense! Get a short-runner, and life will be better! I was skeptical about boosting my car till i saw how there set-ups where. Lets get some more pics up, shall we?!?!


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

New pics same old setup 










Paint is peeling they are geting powercoated soon enough though


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## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

Nastyboost said:


> Depending on the style of wastegage. If its an internal unit ( part of the turbo ) then you just run the vacuum line straight from the compressor housing nipple to the wastegate canister nipple. If there are two it is most likely the bottom port. Post pics if you need to for better help. Some internal and external wastegates have more than one vacuum nipple. Sometimes people use both but this is not necessary. Just my .02


 Its a tial trying to run it with a boost controler. i think i did it right. The most ive seen the car pull on a normal drive is about 3 pounds of boost. 

What i did is: Connected a vacuum line to the compressor housing and the other end to the bottom nipple on the wastegate. cut it in half put a normal T and connected it to the contoler...Is that right?


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

papo98jetta said:


> Its a tial trying to run it with a boost controler. i think i did it right. The most ive seen the car pull on a normal drive is about 3 pounds of boost.
> 
> What i did is: Connected a vacuum line to the compressor housing and the other end to the bottom nipple on the wastegate. cut it in half put a normal T and connected it to the contoler...Is that right?


 Post up a pic. And what boost controller. The way im routed with controller(MBC two ports) is the same with the only difference is wastegate types. It seems if the vacuum routing to the compressor port from controller is there it is less prone to creep or spike as it does when it is mounted to manifold port.


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

What are some average numbers you guys are pulling daily, for those of you who have a short runner, and even for those of you who dont? Im curious to see what im gunna be having fun with.


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## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

No SRI, just factory aba manifold, or Dyno time yet but the ol butt dyno says in the low 200 range( at 13-15psi). Hopefully i can get the damn thing on the road long enough to have the opportunity to see the dyno. Just ate up a rigid 4puck clutch with Kevlar buttons with only 6 weeks driving time on it ( and granny driving around town at that, I don't beat on her that often as i don't like the garage r&r down time)


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

on 14 psi i was maxing the stock pump out.(which is around 240whp) 
now i have a wally and am running 22psi(280whp range)


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> on 14 psi i was maxing the stock pump out.(which is around 240whp)
> now i have a wally and am running 22psi(280whp range)


 add wat/meth....add timing....+40~50hp


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

2pt. slo said:


> New pics same old setup


come out to manassas...lets get some runs in


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## shannonekermans (Oct 9, 2007)

new setup complete 

175whp on 7psi


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> add wat/meth....add timing....+40~50hp


 that is awaiting completion


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## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)




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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

gm 8 is in


little video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrVYvpC0Wtk


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> come out to manassas...lets get some runs in


where at in manassas? I'm down but with the baby its hard to get out. I drive it to work in Gainesville about once every other week or so if its not to hot out since i dont have ac. Just pm me one day


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> gm 8 is in
> 
> 
> little video
> ...



what is a gm 8?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

elRey said:


> what is a gm 8?


it came off the older chevy diesels


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## elRey (May 15, 2001)

Ah. What's the exhaust inlet and outlet flange styles on all these things? Is there any standard to them, or you have to wait and see once you have one in hand?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&...=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1440&bih=718


t3 flange. i'm sure the dp needed some work to make it fit right. i just welded a v-band straight to my turbine housing


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yea i made my flange out of plate of steel and cutter....

its 3inch inlet 2.5 outle


----------



## SpdDemon (Mar 18, 2007)

Im Very Thankful for this post cause im looking to do turbo on my 2.0 as welll now i see alot of guys took out dere engines to put on the turbo is it possible to put on ur turbo without having to take out the engine?


----------



## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

Running 10 psi right now. This winter it will see air ride, black magic pearl, new clutch, and finish the tuning.


----------



## Nastyboost (Feb 18, 2007)

Zorba2.0 said:


> Running 10 psi right now. This winter it will see air ride, black magic pearl, new clutch, and finish the tuning.


Setup looks nice. Id drop that manifold and make an SRI. Ive been wanting to do the same. It will definitely make the bay cleaner and less piping is less air restriction. You may lose a little torque downlow with SRI but just having less piping will help spool that turbo a little bit better.


----------



## Lo5to4pathy7 (Mar 3, 2008)

whats goin on guys...

i posted up a pic of my recently turbo'd 8v on the first page i believe. ive been messing with hit since i got it back because it doesnt seem to be working at full capacity. first the chip was bad (car wouldnt start, it would just crank) and now that ive got a new chip from C2 (great guys, excellent customer service) the car will start. however, the CEL came on immediately. the car runs, its only pushing 6 psi at the moment, and itll def haul if you put the pedal to the floor. however its def running rich (after romping on it the smell of gas is rampant) 

ive got a couple issues i cant seem to figure out. a) the running rich. yes i know i need to get air/fuel hooked up to help with that. 

b) weird idling issue. heres a video:


took it to AP tuning to see what they thought. thought the car was slightly outta timing at the distributor (off a tooth) so they reset that, and told me that my ported throttle body could be messing with the software, seeing as its still metered air at that point. so, i went out to a junkyard and got two different throttle bodies (unported) and put them both on and tried running the car with them on. to the contrary, the car seemed to run worse. it seemed like there was no boost pressure - checked all the boost tubes for leaks numerous times and everything seemed to be hooked up right. needless to say, i went back to the ported TB and the boost seemed to kick back in. so...were both the TPS bad on the throttle bodies i picked up? also, sometimes the idle will bounce like that in traffic or at a light fo no reason, or when i push the clutch in to stop, it wont drop to the 800 rpm range, itll just hover around 1200 rpms. any ideas? 


and c) under hard acceleration (or into boost) if i need to push the clutch in to stop, the tach will either drop very low and almost stall out, or completely stall out. but if i let the car coast in gear to a non boost rpm, itll be fine when i push the clutch in. 

i work at autozone so ive checked the codes a few times, the 3 that come up are something about manufacturers settings and then a camshaft position code and a metered air code. like i said ive swapped 3 different throttle bodies and i even checked the MAF, the one in the car now looks brand new, i swapped in a used 2.0 one and it ran worse. so im not sure what to think.

any help or ideas with these would be greatly appreciated! i may be a hypochondriac when it comes to the car but i def want it running right! thanks! :beer:


----------



## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

> Setup looks nice. Id drop that manifold and make an SRI. Ive been wanting to do the same. It will definitely make the bay cleaner and less piping is less air restriction. You may lose a little torque downlow with SRI but just having less piping will help spool that turbo a little bit better.


Yeah, I've been meaning to get a new manifold. The mk4 worked good with the lysholm but my buddy got a new tig welder so when I come home this winter that'll be a new project for him to do. Maybe even aluminum boost tubes too.


----------



## papo98jetta (Dec 10, 2008)

Do you have to run a recirculating blow off valve on a c2 chip? And what mode do you guys run, Steet or race?


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Lo5to4pathy7 said:


> now looks brand new, i swapped in a used 2.0 one and it ran worse. so im not sure what to think.
> 
> any help or ideas with these would be greatly appreciated! i may be a hypochondriac when it comes to the car but i def want it running right! thanks! :beer:


 Sounds like you just need to readapt the TB after swapping them. Just throwing in a new TB and MAF in will seem like its running worse becuase the TB has not been readapted. Using a deramped/bored TB will cause running problems expecially with an aftermarket chip. Also try just cleaning the MAF with some CRC MAF cleaner and report back after these have been done.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> on 14 psi i was maxing the stock pump out.(which is around 240whp)
> now i have a wally and am running 22psi(280whp range)


 When my old turbo jetta was at its peak it was around 280whp on green tops with no additional pump.....and this was on around 24psi with a Garrett 57 trim, and c2 software (3 bar).....I can only report about mk3 cars by the way--but CIS cars can def. do more than mk3 cars. 



Lo5to4pathy7 said:


> took it to AP tuning to see what they thought. thought the car was slightly outta timing at the distributor (off a tooth) so they reset that, and told me that my ported throttle body could be messing with the software, seeing as its still metered air at that point. so, i went out to a junkyard and got two different throttle bodies (unported) and put them both on and tried running the car with them on. to the contrary, the car seemed to run worse. it seemed like there was no boost pressure - checked all the boost tubes for leaks numerous times and everything seemed to be hooked up right. needless to say, i went back to the ported TB and the boost seemed to kick back in. so...were both the TPS bad on the throttle bodies i picked up? also, sometimes the idle will bounce like that in traffic or at a light fo no reason, or when i push the clutch in to stop, it wont drop to the 800 rpm range, itll just hover around 1200 rpms. any ideas?
> 
> 
> and c) under hard acceleration (or into boost) if i need to push the clutch in to stop, the tach will either drop very low and almost stall out, or completely stall out. but if i let the car coast in gear to a non boost rpm, itll be fine when i push the clutch in.
> ...


 I know exactly what's going on.....and I know this because I'm one of the few who have ran deramped obd2 TBs on both my old turbo car and my current n/a car. Everything is a little complicated to explain here, but if you shoot me a PM I'll answer anything ya throw at me.  



2pt. slo said:


> Sounds like you just need to readapt the TB after swapping them. Just throwing in a new TB and MAF in will seem like its running worse becuase the TB has not been readapted. Using a deramped/bored TB will cause running problems expecially with an aftermarket chip. Also try just cleaning the MAF with some CRC MAF cleaner and report back after these have been done.


 Adapting def. has a thing or two to do with this, but as I stated above, my old car was running a deramped TB for the longest.....and on the emissions compliant c2 software no less.


----------



## duhafnusa4 (Dec 20, 2007)

95 jetta gl 

TT 266 cam, valve springs, T3, TT chip, st165 intercooler, 24# injectors, 8-10 psi daily


----------



## Bierbursche (Aug 30, 2005)

Brian, the op, was over here today, ran my vag-com on it. realigned the the throttle body. car idles better but doesn't boost? throwing a code for cam position sensor malfunction and no response. im guessing we can swap the distributor and see what that does. im also leaning a lil bit towards a crank sensor. i worked on a few audi's and they are funky, much like an ignition switch. let me know what you guys think. im as determined to get this thing working right as he is, i hear he was debating selling it...  lets get this going.


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## Bierbursche (Aug 30, 2005)

ttt


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

current!


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## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

Nice looking SRI 
why double DV?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

surge is the enemy!


----------



## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

ah i see


----------



## '01 GTI 1.8t (Feb 1, 2008)

Borg/Warner T3/T4 S200 .60 trim, Blitz BOV, Revtec FMIC, Eurosport exhaust, Autotech 268 cam, running about 6 psi... 166whp/183wtq. Within the next two weeks, it'll be swapped into MegaSquirt 2 stand alone. Just waiting on the fuel pump and sensors and i'll be ready to go. Looking for 220whp/220wtq.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Bierbursche said:


> Brian, the op, was over here today, ran my vag-com on it. realigned the the throttle body. car idles better but doesn't boost? throwing a code for cam position sensor malfunction and no response. im guessing we can swap the distributor and see what that does. im also leaning a lil bit towards a crank sensor. i worked on a few audi's and they are funky, much like an ignition switch. let me know what you guys think. im as determined to get this thing working right as he is, i hear he was debating selling it...  lets get this going.


 if its the cam sensor it wont rev past a certain point.


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> surge is the enemy!


 call me stupid, but i guess i need this in more plain terms..


----------



## jerrymic (Apr 19, 2007)

By surge I think he is referring to the spike in boost that can occur so quickly that the DV or BOV can't open fast enough to release the excess pressure


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

its not bad for the engine.Its bad for the turbo the air gets trapped between the shut throttle body and the still spinning turbo

If the Dv dosnt move enough of that air it goes back through the turbo and causes it to slow down. The flutter noises is the turbo being forced to slow down by pressurized air that has no were else to go.

its really bad for the bearings and will actual cause wheel to housing impacts:screwy:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> its not bad for the engine.Its bad for the turbo the air gets trapped between the shut throttle body and the still spinning turbo
> 
> If the Dv dosnt move enough of that air it goes back through the turbo and causes it to slow down. The flutter noises is the turbo being forced to slow down by pressurized air that has no were else to go.
> 
> its really bad for the bearings and will actual cause wheel to housing impacts:screwy:


its REALLY bad when you're surging due to the fact the motor cant ingest the air that the turbo is putting out....this is THE WORST kind of surge and can be heard here....

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...yLi4yPM_w&sig2=QZCMSARtYybNOHfJmu4mFQ&cad=rja


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

what tranny's are you guys using?
Im thinking of the 02A from a G60. Can i still use my stock ABA cables, and shift box, or do i need to get that from the g60 as well?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

You have to get g60 stuff. Aba trans' are linkage shifted, not cable shifted.


----------



## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)

thatofinthedistance said:


> what tranny's are you guys using?
> Im thinking of the 02A from a G60. Can i still use my stock ABA cables, and shift box, or do i need to get that from the g60 as well?



im running 
02A Swap out of B4 2.0 passat
G60 solid tranny mount
VR clutch and pressure plate


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

PBWB said:


> You have to get g60 stuff. Aba trans' are linkage shifted, not cable shifted.


Is there a difference in terms of performance? And which do you prefer?



Matthew ink inc said:


> im running
> 02A Swap out of B4 2.0 passat
> G60 solid tranny mount
> VR clutch and pressure plate



Did you have to get everything out of the 02A passat? Is it cable, or linkage? And hows that working out for you? If i want to really get on it, am i able to?


----------



## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)

Matthew ink inc said:


> im running
> 02A Swap out of B4 2.0 passat
> G60 solid tranny mount
> VR clutch and pressure plate





thatofinthedistance said:


> Did you have to get everything out of the 02A passat? Is it cable, or linkage? And hows that working out for you? If i want to really get on it, am i able to?


what do u mean get everything out of the 02a passat? im using a tranny from the passat, g60 mounts out of a corrado and a vr clutch n pressure plate.

ya i get really on it and its awesome.


edit - over read ur post. its cable.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

02j from an 02 jetta
TDI 5th

Spec vr6 stage 3

I like it

Wish i had the change for a diff now (spins 60-80)


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

Matthew ink inc said:


> what do u mean get everything out of the 02a passat? im using a tranny from the passat, g60 mounts out of a corrado and a vr clutch n pressure plate.
> 
> ya i get really on it and its awesome.
> 
> ...


Whats the difference between the mk3 02A and mk4 02A? i found one from a mk3, still just as good if i go with your same set up? Or are the MK4's stronger??


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

will i be safe with going with the 02A mk3 tdi tranny?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

thatofinthedistance said:


> Whats the difference between the mk3 02A and mk4 02A? i found one from a mk3, still just as good if i go with your same set up? Or are the MK4's stronger??


mk4 are 02J


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## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)

thatofinthedistance said:


> Whats the difference between the mk3 02A and mk4 02A? i found one from a mk3, still just as good if i go with your same set up? Or are the MK4's stronger??


i didnt say a mk4 tranny. i said a b4 passat tranny. b4 doesnt mean mk4 

passats are heavier cars they have stronger trannys


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> 02j from an 02 jetta
> TDI 5th
> 
> Spec vr6 stage 3
> ...


A diff wont fix that...you need less boost or more tire


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Matthew ink inc said:


> i didnt say a mk4 tranny. i said a b4 passat tranny. b4 doesnt mean mk4
> 
> passats are heavier cars they have stronger trannys


No.. they dont.......
an 02A or 02J is the same strengh weather its in a 16v passat or a MK4 VR6... A's and J's are the same gear box with different syncro hubs ..strenght is the same either way


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

dave you and me need to talk.I gotta get my spool down.Full boost at 4800(23psi)

anything i can try to move it down(i have a 12psi spring in the wastegate,i have a 14.7 one to try)
i also advanced my cam timing a tooth clockwise seems to have a little more midrange lol


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> dave you and me need to talk.I gotta get my spool down.Full boost at 4800(23psi)
> 
> anything i can try to move it down(i have a 12psi spring in the wastegate,i have a 14.7 one to try)
> i also advanced my cam timing a tooth clockwise seems to have a little more midrange lol


in which gear???


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

obd2 block and head 110k stock compression
tt 268 cam
TT hd valve springs
Deleted A/C
Deleted PS
10lb flywheel
Stock G60 crank pulley no center section
ebay exhaust manifold 
GT28rs w/ internal wastegate
MK4 intake manifold
custom 2.5'' ic piping
Kinetics front mount IC
3inch downpipe to 3in 400 cell cat to 2.5 tt borla exhaust
3inch maf
#42 Injectors
Custom united motorsport #42 software

@12psi 225whp/240whtq on Mustang Dyno
Dyno tuned @ EPL stratford, CT


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Filthydubber said:


> obd2 block and head 110k stock compression
> tt 268 cam
> TT hd valve springs
> Deleted A/C
> ...


Strong numbers! :beer: now turn it up!


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Strong numbers! :beer: now turn it up!



I am, this week im getting a spare head decked, and next weekend im doing a hg spacer, fresh head and 22psi.


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## rjones1214 (Apr 24, 2009)

Wow great numbers at just 12psi, can't wait to see 22psi.
I would be happy with 200-225hp at 12psi, but my compression will be lower.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> in which gear???


Any gear lol.But say i do a 3rd gear pull its 4800


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

ill be able to add to this forum once i get my turbo on. lol I was going to buy a new tranny, but checked the bank account...and $$ is an issue. I kind of hope i dont blow my 020 tranny the first week i have it. I guess ill have to baby my car :thumbdown:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

youd be surprised how much a 020 can take


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I think you'll be fine with an 020 until you can afford the 02j/02a set up. Hell, I am still running the SAME 020 since I built my car. I am in process of piston set 3 right now, so to each his own. LOL. I have ran 22 and 23" tall slicks, doing 2nd gear burnouts. I strongly feel if you drive the car responsibly, ie. knowing you have a glass tranny, you'll be fine. If you see a crack in the road, a bump, intersection, get out of boost! Its the shock from the "stick,slip,stick" that can really bust a trans up.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Salsa GTI said:


> A diff wont fix that...you need less boost or more tire


 It's helped my n/a car be a little quicker now that I have the shim kit out......but one tire fires are no fun. :thumbdown:


Daskoupe said:


> youd be surprised how much a 020 can take


You'd be surprised at how much they can't take as well. Spider gear pin = BOOM all day long in the streets, even on stock cars.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I went though axles and broken mounts 020 never failed.it had leaking diffz seals from the day I got it.


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## crashnburn987 (May 11, 2004)

Apparently someone has already posted a pic of my set-up on the first page, cool :thumbup:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I went though axles and broken mounts 020 never failed.it had leaking diffz seals from the day I got it.


Then it's DEFINITELY not fast enough. ha You are pretty lucky though.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I feel like its not lol.But then i get a new vette or sti so bad it has to be


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

020's suck /thread
02a swap is not too hard, everyone should do it


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

ill let you know how fast my 020 goes out. Anyone have any more 8v turbo set ups??


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

ill try and get a picture up when the trans is back on and the other misc parts.... hopefully this weekend but that's what i've been saying every week :banghead:


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

I ran [email protected] in my Mk2 Jetta coupe, 259whp/276tq, open diff-ed ACN code 020. 
The 020 can break, yes, but the type of driver can aggravate the issue .


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

B4S said:


> I ran [email protected] in my Mk2 Jetta coupe, 259whp/276tq, open diff-ed ACN code 020.
> The 020 can break, yes, but the type of driver can aggravate the issue .


:thumbup: niice good to hear!


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

As i was skimming the thread, I was thinking how important is it to have a better fuel pump. I.E. Walbro 255? Can I do without it, and when I get it, will I feel the difference?


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

thatofinthedistance said:


> As i was skimming the thread, I was thinking how important is it to have a better fuel pump. I.E. Walbro 255? Can I do without it, YES
> and when I get it, will I feel the difference? NO


Thats about it


----------



## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

What is the LPH of the stock pumps? Anyone know?


----------



## MattySull (May 17, 2006)

1999(mk3) Jetta 

-stock compression 
-30lb injectors 
-C2 30lb software 
-stock trans 
-2" Piping 
-5 psi for now 
-boost valves MBC 
-Garrett T360 (.48 hotside, .60 cold, .60 turbine) 
-TT 256/260 FI cam 
-custom 2.5" Downpipe 
-magnaflow 2.25" stainless catback 


Full boost at 2750 if not slightly sooner(its only five lol). it hits pretty damn hard for 5psi, I am kinda confused at how strong it pulls. I am new to the feeling of quickness but I really do not think a VR would have much of a chance at it. 

Dyno coming in about a month or so(5psi and 10psi), will updated post. 


Pics tomorrow


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## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)

MattySull said:


> 1999(mk3) Jetta
> 
> -stock compression
> -30lb injectors
> ...


 5? turn that bizznnnitch up


----------



## MattySull (May 17, 2006)

Matthew ink inc said:


> 5? turn that bizznnnitch up


 I will, just working out the kinks right now. Trying to keep **** together for the 9hr drive to H2Oi.


----------



## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

It probably feels so punchy because of the .48 housing. A .63 will make it roll into boost a little smoother.


----------



## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)

MattySull said:


> I will, just working out the kinks right now. Trying to keep **** together for the 9hr drive to H2Oi.


 good man!


----------



## MattySull (May 17, 2006)

Zorba2.0 said:


> It probably feels so punchy because of the .48 housing. A .63 will make it roll into boost a little smoother.


 I am not 100% on the .63 but I do know the wheel is at least a .60, IDK how to tell the diff. 
It shouldnt matter much between the 2 sizes. 

I like the turbo size a lot because, if needed it is very easy to keep it under 3k to stay out of boost. 
I did quietly roll up to a B16 honda yesterday who after 2nd gear proceeded to piss his pants LOL.:laugh:


----------



## MattySull (May 17, 2006)

1999(mk3) Jetta 

-stock compression 
-30lb injectors 
-C2 30lb software 
-stock clutch+Trans 
-2" Piping 
-Runnig 8psi 
-boost valves MBC 
-Garrett T360 (.48 hotside, .60 cold, .60 turbine) 
-TT 256/260 FI cam 
-custom 2.5" Downpipe with highflow cat 
-magnaflow 2.25" stainless catback 
-Stock saab DV (Bosch) 
-Ebay Front mount painted Bedliner black 
-Team PSI ported exhaust manifold (log style) 
























































The inside ain't so pretty but she moves pretty good now.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

Mattysully: Get that bedliner paint off your intercooler, your killing your efficiency. 

Your going to pick up more power if you take that crap off your IC, your creating a thermal barrier, and not allowing the cold air to cool the ic down. thats the worst idea ever.


----------



## MattySull (May 17, 2006)

Filthydubber said:


> Mattysully: Get that bedliner paint off your intercooler, your killing your efficiency.
> 
> Your going to pick up more power if you take that crap off your IC, your creating a thermal barrier, and not allowing the cold air to cool the ic down. thats the worst idea ever.


 I partially agree with you but I think *you're* overthinking my setup. It is not difficult to cool 8-10 psi with a front mount and at this moment the charged air is coming in quite cool for a daily driver. There isnt much paint on the fins which I would imagine do most of the cooling. 

In the future I will probably sand it down but for now i really do not see it being much of an issue. 

Thanks for the tip. 

BTW Congrats on the setup, you got some great #s out of that.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

MattySull said:


> I partially agree with you but I think *you're* overthinking my setup. It is not difficult to cool 8-10 psi with a front mount and at this moment the charged air is coming in quite cool for a daily driver. There isnt much paint on the fins which I would imagine do most of the cooling.
> 
> In the future I will probably sand it down but for now i really do not see it being much of an issue.
> 
> ...


 Thanks man, I appreciate it, im always looking out for my fellow aba turbo guys. I work with this crap every day so i know the importance of heat transfer in the IC, youd be surprised even at low boost how much timing you can pull due to a hot, or low efficiency IC. 

Get that thing on the dyno, lets see some numbers.


----------



## Matthew ink inc (Sep 21, 2009)

remove that bedliner, ud be surprised with the difference even with low boost! 

setup looks nice. 

clean up that bay  and ur on to a great start!!


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

bedliner paint is a bad idea...but to all the people that whine about painted innercoolers...go kill yourselfes.....most people talk about how this or that hurts preformance...and know all 
yet drive slow ass no power junk......not that i'm saying it about the folks in this thread,, 
but if this applys to you please shut up


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

My new shortrunner is almost ready to start being assembled


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> My new shortrunner is almost ready to start being assembled


 Because your a sexy bitch:beer:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

oh she is i'll have some teasers friday


----------



## pushnmyluck (Jan 30, 2009)

love this thread.. hope u guys keep sharing


----------



## MattySull (May 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> My new shortrunner is almost ready to start being assembled


 when are you selling me the old?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

never maybe its obd1 for a vr tb and passenger side


----------



## CodeMan (May 12, 2006)

Filthydubber said:


> Mattysully: Get that bedliner paint off your intercooler, your killing your efficiency.
> 
> Your going to pick up more power if you take that crap off your IC, your creating a thermal barrier, and not allowing the cold air to cool the ic down. thats the worst idea ever.


I have no first-hand experience with this, but Sport Compact Car ran a test back in the day on painted intercoolers. They measured the air temps before and after the intercooler and found that painting the front edge of the fins had no measurable effect on the charge temps.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

CodeMan said:


> I have no first-hand experience with this, but Sport Compact Car ran a test back in the day on painted intercoolers. They measured the air temps before and after the intercooler and found that painting the front edge of the fins had no measurable effect on the charge temps.


Agreed, HOWEVER a coat of rattle can paint is only a few thousandths of an inch, where as bedliner is hundredths. That's the only real difference.

Just don't use ceramic based paint. :laugh:


----------



## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

-stock compression
-42lb injectors
-C2 42lb software
-stock clutch+Trans lightweight flywheel
-2.5" Piping
-Runnig 8psi
-boost valves MBC
-Garrett T3 (.63 hotside, .60 cold)
-mystery delta cam only pulls 5in of vac at idle and pulled to 7grand n/a-268 plus? going to get specs
-custom 2.5" Downpipe 
- 2.25" catback
-running non-intercooled only temp-working on tig skills to redo in alum with monster front mount
- no dyno numbers yet


----------



## 4229GL (Jul 22, 2006)

holy senseless piping!


----------



## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

ha ha ha thanks it will work for a month or so


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

*soon to be an 11sec rocco*


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

*soon to be an 11sec. rocco*


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

right now im having some issues when im just driving in 3rd at 2800 rpms, or even when i shift into 4th the car seems as if its coasting, i have to press on the gas more and then it kinda jerks. 
*any suggestions*? I know i have horrible hoses, and im getting some silicone hoses in to take car of some things. Maybe thats it? 
Its powerfull for only 8psi, but theres some kinks that i need to work out. It just does not seem as smooth as it should be.:thumbdown:


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Zorba2.0 said:


> I was wondering when Salsa would make an appearance, now where is GTIjoejoe


 I'm here!... 3 months late 

My setup: 
- Has Everything.....besides ported/polished head. I think I can say that because I'm not sure if there is anything else you can do to an 8v  

I've just rejuvinated my setup: heavy hitters 
034efi 
JE pistons (9.6:1 stock CR) 
Eurosport rods 
Ground crank (1 undersize) and polished 
t3/t4 57trim .63exh 
Short runner 
Spearco FMIC 
3" turbo back 
270 cam 
o2a mission 
LSD 
Meth 

don't think I missed anything to important... 
right now it makes 0hp and 0tq because it doesn't start  

at one point in time it made 263whp 280wtq .. but it had less parts


----------



## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

not a aba but has a xflow head mk4 manifold 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5048934-G60-to-Xflow-turbo-build#post67899407 


Should get to start it in the next 2 weeks waiting on snail mail for some parts:beer:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTijoejoe said:


> I'm here!... 3 months late
> 
> My setup:
> - Has Everything.....besides ported/polished head. I think I can say that because I'm not sure if there is anything else you can do to an 8v
> ...


 Well it better do a lot better than that this time! Only reason I say that is because my old jetta on c2 software made 261whp and 298wtq WHILE it was overheating. :laugh:


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


> Well it better do a lot better than that this time! Only reason I say that is because my old jetta on c2 software made 261whp and 298wtq WHILE it was overheating. :laugh:


 I know.... but I do admit that even when it put down those numbers it had that strange wierd fluttering sound even though the dyno pulls were flat :screwy: 

My cylinders in that block were much bigger than my pistons when I pulled them out :laugh: 
I haven't measured my old block, but lets just say when I got my _new_ block its bores were in spec and I couldn't see the top of my pistons rings out of the side of the pistons like I could in my old one


----------



## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

Yay, there you are. Did you always run stock CR pistons? Your car not starting still because of that Coil issue?


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Zorba2.0 said:


> Yay, there you are. Did you always run stock CR pistons? Your car not starting still because of that Coil issue?


I did w/ stacked gaskets before...... coil is good turns out, car not starting still a mystery


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTijoejoe said:


> I did w/ stacked gaskets before...... coil is good turns out, car not starting still a mystery


Well if your ass was still in MD I would have helped figure that out!


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


> Well if your ass was still in MD I would have helped figure that out!


Apple- If you were really good you could figure it out from afare


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTijoejoe said:


> Apple- If you were really good you could figure it out from afare


Weeeeeeeeell I'm not, but how about you PM me a list of symptoms so we can get this done.


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

So I just got my turbo put on, and up and running. It has been running really well, but now my misfire is back. Pre-Turbo, I had one, but only every so often. It seemed as if when i put Chevron gas it would be ok, everything else would seem to make it mis-fire (not sure if that has anything to do with it?) 
Anyhow. I have the C2 stg. 2 Chip, 42lb injectors, headspacer, VR MAF, and an Airsearch turbo. I DO NOT have a Catch Can


----------



## GloryFreak (Feb 20, 2009)

thatofinthedistance said:


> So I just got my turbo put on, and up and running. It has been running really well, but now my misfire is back. Pre-Turbo, I had one, but only every so often. It seemed as if when i put Chevron gas it would be ok, everything else would seem to make it mis-fire (not sure if that has anything to do with it?)
> Anyhow. I have the C2 stg. 2 Chip, 42lb injectors, headspacer, VR MAF, and an Airsearch turbo. I DO NOT have a Catch Can


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

GloryFreak said:


> Sounds like a similar problem I had a couple days ago. I changed out my ignition coil and wallah, problem solved.


i changed cap and rotor, and plugs, wires, and stuff like that. But ignition coil eh?
I was almost thinking coolant temp, or o2 sensor


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

thatofinthedistance said:


> i changed cap and rotor, and plugs, wires, and stuff like that. But ignition coil eh?
> I was almost thinking coolant temp, or o2 sensor


I got a 'new' one for a ABA if your intersted... (ign coil) 
I haven't ran a dizzy for 5 yrs now


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

thatofinthedistance said:


> i changed cap and rotor, and plugs, wires, and stuff like that. But ignition coil eh?
> I was almost thinking coolant temp, or o2 sensor


 Neiter the coolant temp sensor or either o2 sensors will cause your car not to start, much less die when getting on the throttle. Pull the coil and examine for cracks. Also check out the ignition control module (what the coil is riveted/bolted to) for corrosion. Just remember to disconnect the prongs going from the ICM to coil before pulling the coil.

I wouldn't rule out a TPS issue in that mix (obviously that wouldn't cause a misfire)....and I mean that about the dying issue. Check pins 4 and 7 on the TPS connector (IF it's obd2) on the throttle body for the voltage range. Also another good thing to check would be to disconnect your maf, TPS, and dizzy. Then try to start the car. If it doesn't, it's probably one of those items.

Replace your fuel filter. If you have, replace it again. :laugh:


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

i hooked it up to an obd-reader, and got a bad o2 sensor. 
I also noticed a crack about 3 inches long on the weld of my short runner intake manifold:banghead: how does this garbage happen? :thumbdown:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Not enough filler and heat!


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> Not enough filler and heat!


yeah i know that now. Ive been carless for about 2 weeks, i get it this weekend though! yess!


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Gonna run a twin turbo 350z this weekend....


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> Gonna run a twin turbo 350z this weekend....


You still running a silly ass chip tune????


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

GTijoejoe said:


> I'm here!... 3 months late
> 
> My setup:
> - Has Everything.....besides ported/polished head. I think I can say that because I'm not sure if there is anything else you can do to an 8v
> ...


You have crank trigger input to the 034???
or is there some other issue...I has a map for a 1c


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


>


What are the specs on your engine ..thats the best ABA powerband ever:beer:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yes and soon with meth dave!!!!!!!


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Salsa GTI said:


> You have crank trigger input to the 034???
> or is there some other issue...I has a map for a 1c


I have another issue, turns out my internal MAP sensor faulted to ground and had to be replaced. (it was so fun tearing my motor back apart and rewiring some of my harness :screwy
034 has my Ecu now and its ready to be shipped tomorrow.... I Just have to pay for the new map sensor :thumbdown: and finally getting software upgrade

What version is your file? I'll be running the latest 1.02 firmware


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

GTijoejoe said:


> I have another issue, turns out my internal MAP sensor faulted to ground and had to be replaced. (it was so fun tearing my motor back apart and rewiring some of my harness :screwy
> 034 has my Ecu now and its ready to be shipped tomorrow.... I Just have to pay for the new map sensor :thumbdown: and finally getting software upgrade
> 
> What version is your file? I'll be running the latest 1.02 firmware


the old firmware
the new stuf is way better 
the timing screens are more user friendly


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Salsa GTI said:


> the old firmware
> the new stuf is way better
> the timing screens are more user friendly


haha, there can't be very many of us running 034's original software, I mean who's had a unit for this long?

1.00 is copy writted in Feb '05, I bought my ECU like May'05 
You can still send it my way, or atleast give me an idea what your ign. values are...

Its no big deal for me... I ran stacked gaskets before and I am running single now (no to mention my cylinders where much bigger than my pistons in that old motor:banghead .. so I am starting my entire map from 6psi and work its way up... basically starting all my ign. tables from scratch again.
The new software is so much better than the past, and I'm just going off 034's site info... it has more options and 3D mapping, 3D viewing, and more logging... 1.00 software did not log ignition adv. which as we know is very important to spectate while maximizing your peformance.

300whp club on stock compression coming soon (spring) :wave:
I'm daily driving this car in the winter, time to keep my miles off my Evo


----------



## ROBKIDWELL (Feb 28, 2007)

Not done. Maybe early spring ill have it finished.
94 aba block
port and polished, oversized valves, solid lifter head.
std bore
je forged pistons, forged rods, forged crank W/oil spuirters
usrt intake
custom ram horn exhaust manifold.
garrett gt3071r
synapse recirc valve and wastegate.
awic
630cc injectors
megasquirt


hopin for 300hp daily


----------



## r.dixon (Oct 6, 2009)

Anyone hear about this? +500hp 8v

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uYL9-o0We4&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujz8Jw228DI&feature=related


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

have to race a ls swapped Rx7 this weekend...Video for sure


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> have to race a ls swapped Rx7 this weekend...Video for sure


hmmmm curious what is done to that LS1... my buddies RX7 LS1 took a R6


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

no cam so its not over 350....
Rode in it does not feel fast

Might not happen since my car is cleaning phase for car show sunday(IE everything back at the polisher)


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

*turbo81roc*



Salsa GTI said:


> What are the specs on your engine ..thats the best ABA powerband ever:beer:


yeah i am really happy with it. It is fairly getto but hey it works. i am running a 1to1 fpr saab 9000t injectors and turbo ( just a basic t3) meth and 3in maf. and bone stock long block on my second motor. I blew up the first one because i ran out meth racing a cobra but hey it lasted 85k of pure abuse i used to drag this car every weekend. So I think that the 10to1 comp is realy what is making the power but that dyno pull was also on c16 and 23psi, so it def makes less whp on pump. I run 20 psi on pump with meth daily. The only prob with this set up is that it runs really rich when cold so I have to change the oil every 1000 to 1500mi. but i think it is worth it, so much fun


----------



## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

just put this together the other day so it looks haggard... i will be making changes to make it look better and add other parts...


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

whens the boost come on?


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

that is very different. wonder how it spools.


----------



## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

bump


----------



## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> that is very different. wonder how it spools.


it spools quick and the boost is smooth..it only on wastegate, 8 psi right now. I wil tae a quick video of it today.. i made the manifold, it is all equal length and i yet have to make the short runner...


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

make sure so use some support brackets or it will crack like a mofo.


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

turbobunny007 said:


> it spools quick and the boost is smooth..it only on wastegate, 8 psi right now. I wil tae a quick video of it today.. i made the manifold, it is all equal length and i yet have to make the short runner...


nice mani and those r some good mig beads


----------



## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> nice mani and those r some good mig beads


thanks..... yea i have to support it yet.. so are you running a chip with the fpr and meth???


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*are you guys with AR.63 getting full boost in second??*


heres my ****ty weekend 









video 

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/video/video.php?v=146415542073217&oid=158448770853179&comments


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## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

turbobunny007 said:


> thanks..... yea i have to support it yet.. so are you running a chip with the fpr and meth???


nah believe it or not no chip. ran it like that for 80k beating the snot out of it. but I did have Jeff bump up my fuel 10% over 3k rpm and raise the rev limiter so i dont have to shift in to fith at the end of the 1/4mi. the motor only had 10k on it when i boosted it that was about ten years ago. i did melt a piston last year, but only cuz i ran out of meth while racing a cobra. so that motor died at 90k ( so100k total) of pure abuse i used to street race my roc every weekend in the Bronx back in the good old days wen the pigs didnt give a [email protected]$#k.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> *are you guys with AR.63 getting full boost in second??*


How high is full boost?
I certainly made at least 14psi in 2nd.
What CR and cam are you running?


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> *are you guys with AR.63 getting full boost in second??*
> 
> 
> heres my ****ty weekend
> ...


I could get it 1st...or second...but its just abusive to things to do it...yes all 24 of those psi's....
some day ill get another car


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

i have a two stage boost controller. with a switch on the turn signal stalk. i run 8 psi in 1st and 2nd then hit the switch in third and it goes to 23psi and fun begins. One of the best mods i have ever done. With out u just spin tires and the car doesn't: go any where!


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

i'm make full boost just hair under 5k

We just smoke tested the system-Found the polisher got a little to vigorous on a weld....

And my isv is pouring out boost all the time!

Going fix that **** tomorrow!


----------



## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

any 8v guys running gt3071r .63 . i am getting one soon just wondering when full boost hits is it to lagy for my daily


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> i'm make full boost just hair under 5k
> 
> We just smoke tested the system-Found the polisher got a little to vigorous on a weld....
> 
> ...


They do that, its wise to route the ISV from your charge pipe to your intake mani, issue fixed :thumbup:


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

vwturbofox said:


> any 8v guys running gt3071r .63 . i am getting one soon just wondering when full boost hits is it to lagy for my daily


Shouldn't be that big of a difference over a t3/t4 I would think, I'm guessing mid 4k's
Your cam and CR choice will differ from ppls experience.... I went from stacked gaskets (w/ 9.6:1 pistons) to single @ 9.6:1 and I can already tell a difference in spool (@8psi) and I haven't even tuned this motor yet.

My .48 50 trim would start spool ~2200, my .63 57trim is only a few hundred's off like 2600ish (I haven't logged it yet, just my eye glance)... and that .48 trim made 20-22psi at 3.6-7k... so I'm hoping 20psi by 4200 WOOT WOOT! (I've changed intake mani's since the .48 though:sly


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

i have it from intake manifold to inlet pipe pre turbo(just like it is stock)


----------



## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

well my comp is 10.1 and euro/g grind cam i might go bigger cam later.does ceramic coating and turbo blanket make a difference really. if i can get full spool befor 4k would be sweet. my turbo know spools at 2500 it is a stock k24 audi but doesnt pull hard enough in third gear like i want so i think the gt3071r will make the car a different animal


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> i have a two stage boost controller. with a switch on the turn signal stalk. i run 8 psi in 1st and 2nd then hit the switch in third and it goes to 23psi and fun begins. One of the best mods i have ever done. With out u just spin tires and the car doesn't: go any where!


I need to post the vid of my car in 3rd hitting boost at 70mph or so and blazing the tires and pinning the tach....front drive = zero traction......it sucks playing catch up to AWD cars because of this


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yeah like this

http://www.youtube.com/user/Tomsworld?feature=mhum#p/a/u/0/97oY84a6KV8


mind you that is with a boost leak! and my undersized Shortrunner


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Salsa GTI said:


> I need to post the vid of my car in 3rd hitting boost at 70mph or so and blazing the tires and pinning the tach....front drive = zero traction......it sucks playing catch up to AWD cars because of this


Nah.....You just need to spend the money on axles, spherical bearings (or traction bars), and the tires to keep that from happening.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Axles have nothing to do with taction!


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> Axles have nothing to do with taction!


Correct, BUT when you do spherical bearings or traction bars with a solid suspension and good tires that's the next weakest link--which is why it's just as important.....

I just hate hearing about traction issues from people that don't want to spend the money to do the right things....It's kind of like the retarded racers who won't learn the car and dial it in. They'd rather throw more power at it to go down the track faster. You might as well complain about having the flu while you're standing in the snow with sandals and a wife-beater.

DISCLAIMER TO THE SENSITIVE: I'm not calling anyone a retard.....but if the shoe fits.....:wave:


----------



## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

PBWB said:


> Correct, BUT when you do spherical bearings or traction bars with a solid suspension and good tires that's the next weakest link--which is why it's just as important.....
> 
> I just hate hearing about traction issues from people that don't want to spend the money to do the right things....It's kind of like the retarded racers who won't learn the car and dial it in. They'd rather throw more power at it to go down the track faster. You might as well complain about having the flu while you're standing in the snow with sandals and a wife-beater.
> 
> DISCLAIMER TO THE SENSITIVE: I'm not calling anyone a retard.....but if the shoe fits.....:wave:


Technically you dont get the flu from the standing in the cold weather but i agree to a point...some people love to do burnouts in 3rd gear...haha, plus its more fun to let the awd's take a lead then blow by them:laugh:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

i finally got a chance at the ls rx7....And 2 car lenghts a 110 is pretty good right


Track thursday attempt #2 on slicks


----------



## Rolands76xx (Sep 21, 2009)

sorry to intervene, btu since we are talking about traction, would it be stupid to boost my AEG to 20psi without doing my tranny/ putting an lsd? :sly: lol...might be doing that soon


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

my dream is to syncro the ROC:laugh:


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

*umm..help*

Im having some problems with my ABA-T. Ive been a lurker in this thread sense summer time. Ive finally got around to boost my car, but its had nothing but issues honestly. Mainly with the short-runner. It was warped, and sketch to begin with, but i got it all welded up. Now the check engine light came on, and it was running in limp mode for a while. I scanned it, and it came up as oxygen sensor. The guy who worked on my car (knows his ish..trust me) cut the wires to the o2, cause he was having a hard time getting it off, and i was in a rush (dont flame me), and believe it or not the car ran like a dream. Both of us where really surprised. We let it idle for about 45 minutes, and it ran like a dream, no check engine light, nothing. I drive home, and then a couple of hrs later, it wouldnt hold its idle. When it did finally start the check engine light would come on, then the car shut off immediately. So I changed the oxy sensor, and the car is still doing the same thing. I disconnected the battery, and still no luck Im kinda stuck. :banghead:
Ill get to my set-up in a second. But we've narrowed it down to these options. 
1. The #3 Relay might be bad.
2. The used C2 chip i bought might be acting up. (The guy had the same turbo set up as i did) The car ran perfect before boost, essentially the only thing that is different is the C2 chip, everything else is original components. Ive changed the cap and rotor, plug wires. And they are all professionally done. 

Does anyone have any ideas. There are no boost leaks, no cracked anything to my knowledge, and ive checked a good amount of times with different people. 

C2 chip-stage 2
BBM headspacer 9:1
BBM fuel rail 
42lb Injectors 
Custom Shortrunner
older VW turbo--i believe off a TDI
Thats about all that really matters. 
Picture in the middle of the build process.


----------



## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

thatofinthedistance said:


> Im having some problems with my ABA-T. Ive been a lurker in this thread sense summer time. Ive finally got around to boost my car, but its had nothing but issues honestly. Mainly with the short-runner. It was warped, and sketch to begin with, but i got it all welded up. Now the check engine light came on, and it was running in limp mode for a while. I scanned it, and it came up as oxygen sensor. The guy who worked on my car (knows his ish..trust me) cut the wires to the o2, cause he was having a hard time getting it off, and i was in a rush (dont flame me), and believe it or not the car ran like a dream. Both of us where really surprised. We let it idle for about 45 minutes, and it ran like a dream, no check engine light, nothing. I drive home, and then a couple of hrs later, it wouldnt hold its idle. When it did finally start the check engine light would come on, then the car shut off immediately. So I changed the oxy sensor, and the car is still doing the same thing. I disconnected the battery, and still no luck Im kinda stuck. :banghead:
> Ill get to my set-up in a second. But we've narrowed it down to these options.
> 1. The #3 Relay might be bad.
> 2. The used C2 chip i bought might be acting up. (The guy had the same turbo set up as i did) The car ran perfect before boost, essentially the only thing that is different is the C2 chip, everything else is original components. Ive changed the cap and rotor, plug wires. And they are all professionally done.
> ...



I hope that pic isnt your finished running product... if so you got a butt ton of vac leaks. You have a 3" maf correct? i had alot of trouble when my throttle body started dying. you could also try to clear your codes. as far as ive seen, that will clear fuel trims and such.


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

drracing07 said:


> I hope that pic isnt your finished running product... if so you got a butt ton of vac leaks. You have a 3" maf correct? i had alot of trouble when my throttle body started dying. you could also try to clear your codes. as far as ive seen, that will clear fuel trims and such.


yeah i do have the 3" MAF. And how does the TB start dying? We've cleared the codes, but the problems just persist 20 minutes later. 
And no its not my finished product..trust me. :laugh: i dont even think thats drivable. it was just in the middle of a build..i wanted to contribute to the thread haha:thumbup:


----------



## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

thatofinthedistance said:


> Im having some problems with my ABA-T. Ive been a lurker in this thread sense summer time. Ive finally got around to boost my car, but its had nothing but issues honestly. Mainly with the short-runner. It was warped, and sketch to begin with, but i got it all welded up. Now the check engine light came on, and it was running in limp mode for a while. I scanned it, and it came up as oxygen sensor. The guy who worked on my car (knows his ish..trust me) cut the wires to the o2, cause he was having a hard time getting it off, and i was in a rush (dont flame me), and believe it or not the car ran like a dream. Both of us where really surprised. We let it idle for about 45 minutes, and it ran like a dream, no check engine light, nothing. I drive home, and then a couple of hrs later, it wouldnt hold its idle. When it did finally start the check engine light would come on, then the car shut off immediately. So I changed the oxy sensor, and the car is still doing the same thing. I disconnected the battery, and still no luck Im kinda stuck. :banghead:
> Ill get to my set-up in a second. But we've narrowed it down to these options.
> 1. The #3 Relay might be bad.
> 2. The used C2 chip i bought might be acting up. (The guy had the same turbo set up as i did) The car ran perfect before boost, essentially the only thing that is different is the C2 chip, everything else is original components. Ive changed the cap and rotor, plug wires. And they are all professionally done.
> ...


well you are running obd1 right??? thats what the pic looks like.. did you delete the idle air stabilizer?? If so i believe you have to adust the throtte valve to be open more at idol so it stays idoling...that what we did to a friends car with a usrt short runner....that is if you deleted it..


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

you can not get a obd1 car to run worth a **** with the ISV deleted


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

PBWB said:


> Correct, BUT when you do spherical bearings or traction bars with a solid suspension and good tires that's the next weakest link--which is why it's just as important.....
> 
> I just hate hearing about traction issues from people that don't want to spend the money to do the right things....It's kind of like the retarded racers who won't learn the car and dial it in. They'd rather throw more power at it to go down the track faster. You might as well complain about having the flu while you're standing in the snow with sandals and a wife-beater.
> 
> DISCLAIMER TO THE SENSITIVE: I'm not calling anyone a retard.....but if the shoe fits.....:wave:


This is all well and good...but a few things first........
a purpose built Drag car has no place in my life.....
I enjoy driving my car...and not just in a straight line 1,320 feet at a time either...
THe real world has twists and turns...and even bumps and dips.....
The solid rear suspension and traction aids and slicks are a big ten no...for me....


so is sitting around waiting for my turn to drive my car for 12 seconds trying to break it...then sitting around waiting to do it again...then trailering it home because its a worthless drag car that is not streetable is a waste of a good day to me.....but to each his or her own.....
So front drive street cars have traction problems period......


----------



## xcracer87 (Aug 15, 2004)

Correction. 


Daskoupe said:


> *I* can not get a obd1 car to run worth a **** with the ISV deleted


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

turbobunny007 said:


> well you are running obd1 right??? thats what the pic looks like.. did you delete the idle air stabilizer?? If so i believe you have to adust the throtte valve to be open more at idol so it stays idoling...that what we did to a friends car with a usrt short runner....that is if you deleted it..


Yes its an OBD1, and the ISV has been cleaned out a while back, and we cleaned out the MAF also. I dont have a catch can, so i know that might be affecting some things, but not enough to not make it run. Again, my car has been boosted for about 2 months, but i've only drove it for about a month. Did an oil change, and cleaned up the oil that we everywhere. 
Im still thinking its the _Used C2 chip that i bought.._


----------



## drracing07 (Nov 5, 2007)

so the isv is still in place?

and some pics to update mine:

before new arp headstuds and spacer


















151,000 miles and still lookin good


















arp headstuds in place


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Salsa GTI said:


> This is all well and good...but a few things first........
> a purpose built Drag car has no place in my life.....
> I enjoy driving my car...and not just in a straight line 1,320 feet at a time either...
> THe real world has twists and turns...and even bumps and dips.....
> ...


I'm not talking about a purpose built drag car....I'm talking about a street car that can actually perform. I'm also talking about people bragging that they can lose traction in X gear at X mph and sounding proud of it. Hell if I had 500hp, I'd do some mods to keep the power down and then brag about how I can be at 500hp and only break traction below X gear or mph....

Twists and turns are fine. Thats why the best in the world use spherical bearings. Why would you want a car that can throw tread at the same speed or less than you're trying to shoot for a turn? That's no bueno. And as for the rear suspension you can easily fab up slapper bars right off the rear beam that can easily be removed with 4 bolts.

This whole discussion can be solved easily, and for not much money if you have some basic fab skills.


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

drracing07 said:


> so the isv is still in place?


yeah.


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

PBWB said:


> I'm not talking about a purpose built drag car....I'm talking about a street car that can actually perform. I'm also talking about people bragging that they can lose traction in X gear at X mph and sounding proud of it. Hell if I had 500hp, I'd do some mods to keep the power down and then brag about how I can be at 500hp and only break traction below X gear or mph....
> 
> Twists and turns are fine. Thats why the best in the world use spherical bearings. Why would you want a car that can throw tread at the same speed or less than you're trying to shoot for a turn? That's no bueno. And as for the rear suspension you can easily fab up slapper bars right off the rear beam that can easily be removed with 4 bolts.
> 
> This whole discussion can be solved easily, and for not much money if you have some basic fab skills.


 No solid bearing mounts on a street car....lets not be stupid here..... 
most of the problem lies with VW "D" bags that cant bring themselves to run a proper wheel and tire combo..... 
Wheels to wide ..and tires to thin and the wrong diameter ......and lowering the damn thing till the axles rub the frame and oil pan hits every pebble.....junk 500 dollar coil overs sitting on the strut bodies with ZERO dravel..... 
or the worst junk of all........AIR BAGS....these are for Jersey Shore "D" Bags..... 


Most 8v cars are Never going to get over 300 wheel....Because most poeple are stuck believing crap they read here from people that dont know crap.......... 
.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

I just replaced the #3 Relay, and nothing. The car idles (for about 15 seconds), and then clicks, and then just dies. When the car is running the Check Engine light does not come on. I replaced the o2 sensor a week ago, it wasnt a brand new one, it was a used one that was working, and when I fired it up, the same thing is happening. :banghead::banghead::banghead: 
Im about to call c2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

13.3 last night 

At the limit of this little intake manifold i think 

I also resurrected the 60-1 last night


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> 13.3 last night
> 
> At the limit of this little intake manifold i think
> 
> I also resurrected the 60-1 last night


 _F__ag_ Racing is all about traction and 60 times...it has little to do with high HP... 

and its not your manifold.... 
Stop drag racing its *g**ay*


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Being aggressively prejudiced is *gay*.


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Don't get me started on Canada:laugh:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Dave i'll break 300whp on the new stuff and get mid 12's before i touch the trans 

I kill most anything for a roll i know that but drag racing is fun 

And i raised my car up(to save axles) and am getting a wider tire dave!!!! 

Some of us get smart :laugh:


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

What's the point of high hp if you cant get it to the ground?


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Salsa GTI said:


> Don't get me started on Canada:laugh:


 That's it, I'm throwing milk bags at you right now! They're like milk-filled lactose bombs.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Salsa GTI said:


> No solid bearing mounts on a street car....lets not be stupid here.....


 If you're fine with some vibration and road harmonics transfer, you're fine. Most people who actually put the blood, sweat, and tears into a project AND keep it streetable won't put that many miles on it. And if not, fabbing removable traction bars are cake. 



Salsa GTI said:


> most of the problem lies with VW "D" bags that cant bring themselves to run a proper wheel and tire combo.....
> Wheels to wide ..and tires to thin and the wrong diameter ......and lowering the damn thing till the axles rub the frame and oil pan hits every pebble.....junk 500 dollar coil overs sitting on the strut bodies with ZERO dravel.....
> or the worst junk of all........AIR BAGS....these are for Jersey Shore "D" Bags.....
> 
> ...


 Says the guy with over 10k posts. :laugh: Just messin with ya. People pull good times all day on junk suspension setups....It's hit or miss really, but it is easier the more light the car is. People do a lot of crap wrong and wonder why their times aren't as good as they should be. Wheel/tire combo is probably the biggest as you said, but a lot of people overlook gearing and throw the tallest crap in. Yea you can roll over 120mph in 3rd but 90% don't make the power to justify a VR final drive (for example). 



Zorba2.0 said:


> What's the point of high hp if you cant get it to the ground?


 Exactly.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

this thread is become pretty lame.Speak from exprience not Internet reading


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 13.3 last night
> 
> At the limit of this little intake manifold i think
> 
> I also resurrected the 60-1 last night


 If it's stock I'm pretty sure your intake mani is fine at the moment, but not if you intend to keep pushing the car. I was in the neighborhood of ~290whp back in the day on a stock manifold (among a laundry list of other stock parts) and the car was definitely a high 12s car....and that was in a mk3. 

Just cause I don't have a quick car now doesn't mean I never did.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


> Just cause I don't have a quick car now doesn't mean I never did.


 BLAMMMO!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Yeah and I'm sure you had traction bars and all that other shiz to right?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Nope....I had plans, but that was the extent of it. I wasn't an aviation sheet metal geek/fabricator back then. Hell that car I spoke of--I blew the motor the same day I turbo'd it. I'll be the first to admit I've come a long way. About the only "cool" thing I could say for back then is finding the limits of an o1m auto trans.... I do my own work now. But hey, you're the one who works at a "fabrication" shop. 

 back at ya


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Hey I'm not knocking you.I'll show you a teaser of what I'm fabbin for the jetta its going to get me outta a vw transmission


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

We have a local guy here thats running a very built auto cobalt trans he scored underground from chevy....It's damn huge and the only reason he hasn't made a pass is because he's still trying to tune the transmission. That guys setup is crazy....ABA block, 16v head, on methanol with 8 injectors, dual stage water/meth on top of that, dry sump oil, one piece fiberglass front, etc....And a turbo that could eat small children. 

And on the hardcore forums the guys are doing R&D work to make going RWD a lot easier than previously. Either way, we should have better options in the next year or so.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

? If your running 100% meth for fuel, what is the purpose of W/M on top of it... I see zero benefit


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

It's all to cool the intake air....The fact that he's using it as a combustible to run the motor is beside the point. That's a mere coincidence. But he runs the water/meth on top of that for the same reason as any of us--to lower intake temps.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Apple, I still don't buy it, (and I knew you were going to say that).... That is like adding an fuel injector post t-body or pre t-body its only injecting more of the same fuel... this time just with some water.... I'm going to need some scientific evidence


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

The dude is on here, I just don't know his name so I can't track him down. Hes from outside of Baltimore and comes out to the private MIR rentals a couple times a year but hasn't made a pass yet.  I'll make sure I at least get ic: of his setup next time I see him.

With that said, I'm PRETTY sure it runs on methanol, but it could be alcohol.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Alright then, I'll buy Ethanol with Meth injection


----------



## Whittle (Aug 23, 2010)

where are you guys taking your turbo oil feeds from?

side of the head?


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Whittle said:


> where are you guys taking your turbo oil feeds from?
> 
> side of the head?


Never, top of oil filter housing, there is two block of plugs. Take one of those :thumbup:


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## Whittle (Aug 23, 2010)

GTijoejoe said:


> Never, top of oil filter housing, there is two block of plugs. Take one of those :thumbup:


Why not?

thats where a g60 oil feed is from? would it not be suitable for a turbo too?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

On aba heads the low oil pressure sensor (blue) goes there....And it's not a reliably constant source for oil--especially for something as detrimental as a turbo.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I have to dig a little more on that apple. I havent had the 5857 on my car running since the oil out the exhuast 100 miles into it. I was concerned too much oil with that turbo helped it kick the bucket. previous the .57 had no issues with the restrictor feed from the filter flange. ah....i think too much.


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## DCor (Sep 20, 2000)

My brother and I built an A2 to dragrace some pal in Chicago but we didn't have much cash to blow so we had to do it cheaply. We ended up with about $3500 in the first generation of the car (including the car) but we've developed it quite a bit since those old days.

For the motor we kept it plain. The biggest part of our $3500 was the SDS engine management system but it is necessary to get the most out of the motor. It is, by far, the easiest system available and has plenty of headroom for development on your motor.

The basic setup was:
130K miles on a stock ABA
headstuds
stacked headgaskets
unmolested head
unmolested bottom-end
modified diesel exhaust manifold
stock subaru wrx turbo IHI TD-04
Volvo 740 intercooler
modified stock G60 cam (cut in another bearing surface)
42lb injectors
Clutchmasters Clutch/PP
stock 020 except for the spool (got over 100 passes on the 8V setup)
stock axles (still got 'em on the car - over 300 passes!)

The car was light, but we beat the hell out of the thing. We managed around 280 hp and passes in the mid 11's. We have some of the old videos and blog entries on a my-space page. Look up "govw".

The videos of low-11's were with the first generation of 16v/ABA-T but the rest are with the 8V. I think all of them are on 205/60-13 dot M-&-H tires except the first one with 14" dot's.

We love the 8V setup and me may make one for grins because it was so reliable and easy. 

FWIW we kept developing the car and now we have a 16V/ABA-T making a little over 500 whp, best of 10.28 @ 136-ish. We've destroyed the 020, 02A and now were working on an automatic VW 010 that's looking very promising. We want the big power but with solid reliability.


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## Whittle (Aug 23, 2010)

jettatech said:


> I have to dig a little more on that apple. I havent had the 5857 on my car running since the oil out the exhuast 100 miles into it. I was concerned too much oil with that turbo helped it kick the bucket. previous the .57 had no issues with the restrictor feed from the filter flange. ah....i think too much.


Exactly, people often 'overfeed' the turbo then put a restrictor in. Seems a little pointless to me


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Whittle said:


> Exactly, people often 'overfeed' the turbo then put a restrictor in. Seems a little pointless to me


At least they know it has ample lubrication.

Turbo's have a pressure range specific to the feed, I'm not a guru so I don't know what they actually are (housng specific I would think)... but what I can tell you is often times with Evo's especially with FPred/blck etc. upgraded kits you need to get an upgraded oil line from the oil filter housing instead of the OEM block (near the head) fitting. The company does not warranty the turbo unless you have the upgraded lines because of oil starvation for durability reason in 'their' experience....
That boils down to something pretty important, and unless you can actually prove otherwise I wouldn't recommend getting it from the head.... its a low pressure sensor source for a reason.
That is just my personal opinion never to tap the head for the feed when the housing already has two golden locations for a line :thumbup:

Also remember, different engines have different oil pumps and pressures etc....Type of oil also makes a difference as it changes the pressure.


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## lagmywagon (Aug 22, 2001)

DCor said:


> My brother and I built an A2 to dragrace some pal in Chicago but we didn't have much cash to blow so we had to do it cheaply. We ended up with about $3500 in the first generation of the car (including the car) but we've developed it quite a bit since those old days.
> 
> For the motor we kept it plain. The biggest part of our $3500 was the SDS engine management system but it is necessary to get the most out of the motor. It is, by far, the easiest system available and has plenty of headroom for development on your motor.
> 
> ...


Very Nice :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

jettatech said:


> I have to dig a little more on that apple. I havent had the 5857 on my car running since the oil out the exhuast 100 miles into it. I was concerned too much oil with that turbo helped it kick the bucket. previous the .57 had no issues with the restrictor feed from the filter flange. ah....i think too much.


I'd call precision and get their take on what restrictor you should run....Either way, with the right restrictor and the most stable oil source, you can't go wrong. And it's reasons like that, as well as what GTIJoe was saying about different pumps running different volumes/pressures why I would call the turbo manufacturer no matter what setup it's going on.

Just for reference, I have a high volume ABA oil pump (not high pressure) on my project car with a .032" restrictor (IIRC) that I used previously on my T3/T04E 57 trim. I still have to call Garrett and make sure that that's what I need though...


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

This is all custom built and has been proven to work as a package. 

This includes a ported OBD1 head with TT 272 cam and valve springs. 

Precision turbo 5557 V band turbo with .64 exhaust housing $

Precision turbo WG

Custom built intake manifold with OBD1 VR6 throttle body 82# injectors in stock fuel rail.

Turbo exhaust manifold 

If you buy the whole package I will throw in the ARP head studs and Downpipe and dump tube for MK1.

This set up made 373 whp on a dynojet and 325 ft lbs on a stock longblock. Here is the build thread for the car.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4829923-The-super-slappy-attack-rabbit.

Some engine bay pics.





































Timeslip on stock ABA longblock.










More picks.










Dyno before and after ported head.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

haha Whattup Chuck.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> haha Whattup Chuck.


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## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

TIGninja said:


> This is all custom built and has been proven to work as a package.
> 
> This includes a ported OBD1 head with TT 272 cam and valve springs.
> 
> ...


sick set up. you should be hitting 10s with that kinda power? higher trap too?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> sick set up. you should be hitting 10s with that kinda power? higher trap too?


We were running boost by gear and never really had enough runs to get it completely set up. That run was on a stock longblock with head studs and a MK4 head gasket as well as TT 272 cam and valve springs. Right after the traps on that run when I shut the throttle it ripped the wrist pin out of the piston and stuck a rod through the block :laugh: 

I did compare my runs to other high 10 second cars and I beat most of them in MPH gain from 1/8th to 1/4 so it had it in it.

And the only reason we stopped at that power level is because the stock CIS rabbit pump was done on E85. We did 373 on ~21 lbs so the way this thing is it would pretty easily do 500whp.


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## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

TIGninja said:


> We were running boost by gear and never really had enough runs to get it completely set up. That run was on a stock longblock with head studs and a MK4 head gasket as well as TT 272 cam and valve springs. Right after the traps on that run when I shut the throttle it ripped the wrist pin out of the piston and stuck a rod through the block :laugh:
> 
> I did compare my runs to other high 10 second cars and I beat most of them in MPH gain from 1/8th to 1/4 so it had it in it.
> 
> And the only reason we stopped at that power level is because the stock CIS rabbit pump was done on E85. We did 373 on ~21 lbs so the way this thing is it would pretty easily do 500whp.


my friend also pushed stock rods to there limit with low comp pistons. he bent a rod at 417whp. so I figured I could make 400 on a stock motor but i guess not. I made 307whp and 344wtq on race gas and meth on a bone stock obd2 long block. stock cam and all.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> my friend also pushed stock rods to there limit with low comp pistons. he bent a rod at 417whp. so I figured I could make 400 on a stock motor but i guess not. I made 307whp and 344wtq on race gas and meth on a bone stock obd2 long block. stock cam and all.


 I think the pistons are what gives up. The wrist pin pulls out of the piston on decel and then the rod does its thing. Just because a rod came through the block that doesnt mean thats what failed.


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## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

i took a crappy vid of my car the other day i figure i post it so people could see.. so here it is:


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

crappy video but sounds sexy:thumbup::thumbup:


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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

haven't taken a peek at this for about 5 pages, gives me motivation to get mine off the jacks, stupid wiring harness and long work days, yes yes i know excuses excuses... it doesn't help being 19 either


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## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

vwturbofox said:


> crappy video but sounds sexy:thumbup::thumbup:


thanks i changed format and added frames with my engine bay so it sould be a little clearer and better:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Since we are showing videos.this is my new g pop shop 57 trim (23-25 ish psi)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2JOZ-CepcI&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

turbobunny007 what psi were you on. Daskoupe sick 8v


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## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

vwturbofox said:


> turbobunny007 what psi were you on. Daskoupe sick 8v


14psi with a eip chip (that i had laying around from someone elses turbo kit i made...i had to soder it ito the ecu due to the kid taking it out and breaking a pin) and 310 cc injectors. in the pocess of making my intake manifold. gonna go to the dyno in a couple weeks after i put on my wideband and egt to make sure im ok..


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

hey everyone. I have been lurking on this thread for a while now. I like a lot of the stuff that I see. I have not had my car on the dyno yet, but I know its slow. haha. I got my turbo off a 1.6l TDI (for free) so I just built everything around that. Im hitting full boost around 3200 RPM. I have done a lot of searching before ive posted, but im curious to know a couple of things. Id really like to see my ABA get around 220ish. My question is what turbo should I upgrade to? Ive been building this on a budget. Suggestions for a really solid turbo anyone? Ive searched on Garett's website for some turbos. Id like an even powerband. Id thought I would throw it out there, and get some opinions. :thumbup: Also some cams, and lifters...
Set up:
VR MAF
BBM Fuel Rail
44lb Injectors
C2 stg 2 chip
stock fuel pump
STOCK head. 
Lowered compression from BBM 
Custom SRI 
Greddy BOV
Frozenboost Intercooler.
2.5inch Autotech Exhaust/High Flow Cat
Running on 8psi--maxing out the turbo.
1.6L TDI Turbo-Internal wastegate.

Here's a pic to kind of give you a visual. This is when it was being built, so its completed right now, but just for the sake of things...and to contribute. :thumbup:
And also the link of the turbo that im thinking about "upgrading" to
http://www.dieselvw.com/16Turbocharger.htm


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## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

I have the perfect turbo for you its Garrett t3 freshly rebuilt with a v-band exhaust flange.(pm for pictures) You can def. make 220-260 with it. And you don't need a cam or lifters to do it. I made 307whp on a stock long block. On race gas. Have fun:laugh: 
Turbo ed ABA's are highly addictive If you are not careful, You will definitely need rehab.


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## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

I Def would not buy a turbo from that site most of the parts he sells are Chinese. Gaskest and hardware is as far as I would go as fare as that site goes.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

G pop shop is where I get my turbos and have them upgrade my customers.good dudes there


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

PM'D and thanks everyone. ABA-T's are addictive. Just like any other turbo it seems. It was fun the first couple of weeks, now I want more power  
Any suggestions on cams, and lifters. I want to maintain the practicality of driving it daily...for now. I'm debating between 260, and 270. Which one would be best? Ive been looking at Autotech's cams. I know some guys are running 270, but ive had a reliable friend tell me that 270 might be to much and that i need a more mild cam. Thoughts, and experiences welcome.


----------



## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

I made the 307 on a stock cam. The best thing you can do is meth. that **** is amazing I went from 13psi to 20psi (pump gas) just from adding meth


----------



## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

i cant wait to add pics and specs to this thread.:thumbup:


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> I made the 307 on a stock cam. The best thing you can do is meth. that **** is amazing I went from 13psi to 20psi (pump gas) just from adding meth


shouldnt you see results in the higher rpm's when you add cams? And Meth is tempting...:laugh:


----------



## vwturbofox (Jul 31, 2010)

turbo81roc X-Flow said:


> I made the 307 on a stock cam. The best thing you can do is meth. that **** is amazing I went from 13psi to 20psi (pump gas) just from adding meth


meth/water injection i like using this stuff keeps it safe you made 307 but you forgot the torque numbers 344 nice that has to be fun to drive


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## turbo81roc X-Flow (Mar 19, 2005)

Safe. I don't do safe, lol:laugh: I talk about hp because that is what every one thinks its all about But between You and me torque Is where its at. Fun? Is not the word its retarded,
the car has the best power band ever. 
Now my dream is to go syncro so I can actualy put that power down, before 60mph that is. Cuz that's when wheels stop spining.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

thatofinthedistance said:


> PM'D and thanks everyone. ABA-T's are addictive. Just like any other turbo it seems. It was fun the first couple of weeks, now I want more power
> Any suggestions on cams, and lifters. I want to maintain the practicality of driving it daily...for now. I'm debating between 260, and 270. Which one would be best? Ive been looking at Autotech's cams. I know some guys are running 270, but ive had a reliable friend tell me that 270 might be to much and that i need a more mild cam. Thoughts, and experiences welcome.


The AT 270 is probably the best and most practical cam to get....You'll still have enough low end torque for same gear passing, and it'll keep the hp curve up high enough to warrant visiting 7k rpms as often as you want. I'd grab a cam gear with it and set it between -2 and -4 (depending on how efficient your setup is).


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

PBWB said:


> The AT 270 is probably the best and most practical cam to get....You'll still have enough low end torque for same gear passing, and it'll keep the hp curve up high enough to warrant visiting 7k rpms as often as you want. I'd grab a cam gear with it and set it between -2 and -4 (depending on how efficient your setup is).


Good ish :thumbup: Who would you suggest for the cam?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

autotech (AT)


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

Pshh. I knew that.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Hey guys, I'm about to turbo my ABA as well, and I'd like to state my likely setup and put it out there for you guys to critique.

Setup will go as follows:

I'm using most of what comes in this kit as a *template.*

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/turbo-specialties-extreme-turbo-golf-9398-p-43002.html

It comes with a Garrett GT2560R Turbocharger,
I'm ditching the FMIC, and going with an Air/Water from frozenboost.com

Now I'm going to be running an AEG (mk4 2.0) Intake manifold so I have the charge assembly all on one side.

One of the main questions I'm wanting answered is, should I go with 2.5" charge piping, or 3" ?
Also, any other issues/ideas for this setup would be extremely helpful as this is my first time boosting an engine.


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> Hey guys, I'm about to turbo my ABA as well, and I'd like to state my likely setup and put it out there for you guys to critique.
> 
> Setup will go as follows:
> 
> ...


Honestly I think you have a good idea. But heres what I would suggest. Get a Short Runner intake, and put on a G60 valve cover. the mk4 intake mani is cool, but it just dosent look that great. Not that clean. Just dosent flow imo. 
I would go with the 2.5, and what are you running for management? I would go C2 motorsports stage2, and everything that goes along with it. 
Its helpful to not RUSH ANYTHING. Get a secondary car to daily. Dont have a project as your daily driver. lol it makes things hard sometimes. Maybe Build the head a little bit, for sure run full synthetic, clean stuff up, do it all right the first time, and you will be happy.
You will need a boost gauge, oil, and one to see if your running lean or rich. 
I cant stress the importance of taking your time, and building it right the first time. If you dont, well look at buying a new ABA. 
Are you boosting an OBD1, or 2? 
Ohhhh your transmission will be key also. Dont go ape sht on the thing and you'll be straight. No 5th to 3rd downshifting. Your tranny will be ok, but plan on building another one, or getting a 16v, or TDI with a taller 5th:thumbup:
I know it sounds like a lot, but its worth it. :thumbup:
Good luck man


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

thatofinthedistance said:


> Good ish :thumbup: Who would you suggest for the cam?


I'd sell you the one in my jetta, but I don't have another $100 right now to buy the cam I want to replace it. :banghead: Personally I wouldn't buy a used cam online, you never REALLY know what you got unless you do the research, calculate the lift, etc....But that, like everything is up to you in the end. :thumbup:


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

I would start off with a O2a conversion. Then I would get a lugtronic PNP ecu. And if your still up for it after that then I would turbo the car. I would start off with stock IM first and then get a short runner intake manifold after that.


----------



## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

great thread guys...lots of good info in here..
Ive had a couple 2.0T setups in the past. Im hoping to boost the 94 jetta i just picked up. heres my old ones

















92 gti. bone stock aba running 12psi on a t3 s60 with stock injectors, stock chip and a crappy fmu. ran ok but never ran "right" lol but it was still quick as hell for what it was
best time in this car was a 9.2 at 79mph in the 8th mile


















second one was a 97 jetta 2.0. bought this car already boosted and it was a bit of a basket case.
had to fix TONS of stuff to make this car right
stock head other than a TT266 cam and adj cam gear
stock block with 176k miles 
arp head studs
c2 spacer
ebay t3/t4
2.5" turbo back
c2 stg 2 with 440cc injectors.
stock fuel pump
2stage boost controller
etc...etc...nothing special really.
was running a t4 s60 when i got it...car put down 207whp at 14psi with the smaller turbo on it
i never got it dynoed on the newer setup but i estimate at 22psi it was close to 275whp...at least it sure as hell felt like it. I should have never sold that car. it was a freak and it was lots of fun lol
heres a vid of it on the dyno with the OLD setup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B04vliyaryE

and a quick run through the gears....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvz2Hv1T31w


----------



## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

What restrictor and oil feed lines do you guys run on ABAs? I pretty much got a complete kit, need oil feed setup help


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

GTDi89 said:


> What restrictor and oil feed lines do you guys run on ABAs? I pretty much got a complete kit, need oil feed setup help


Never run a restrictor unless the manufacturer says to. I always run a 3an feed and a 10an return.


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

pretty much got a put together kit, t3 saab turbo, intercooler piping, 1.8t intercooler and so on. have heard to run a restrictor from oil filter flange, then a line to turbo. People have also said brake lines can be used as a feed line? If no restrictor is placed, would it not rob from the motor oil pressure?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

GTDi89 said:


> pretty much got a put together kit, t3 saab turbo, intercooler piping, 1.8t intercooler and so on. have heard to run a restrictor from oil filter flange, then a line to turbo. People have also said brake lines can be used as a feed line? If no restrictor is placed, would it not rob from the motor oil pressure?


No dont do it. Just get yourself a 3an braided feed line.


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

Thanks a lot, will do that now.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-uni.shtml


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTDi89 said:


> What restrictor and oil feed lines do you guys run on ABAs? I pretty much got a complete kit, need oil feed setup help


Not to hate on ya Chuck but I personally would call the manufacturer of the turbo themselves.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> Not to hate on ya Chuck but I personally would call the manufacturer of the turbo themselves.


The use of the restrictor is determined by line pressure and every engine/turbo is different. For instance a S2000 has a hot oil pressure of 85psi when cold but I bet VWs dont get that much.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

I've used brakeline for feed before, I use the small stuff though, can't remember the measurement. The factory TD line is HUGE, and metal. I'm currently using a generic braided -3 line.

I only use older carbon-sealed turbos with thrust bearings though, junkyard stuff. I find they're way more resistant to oil smoke than the new stuff. Most of my boosted cars are junkyard builds though,


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I had to run progressive restrictors, I bought a new g pop shop turbo I had smoke issue right off the back. called them spent like 40 minutes on the phone.I had oil psi gauges t-ed in.turns out cold start is like 85 psi.also I have a an 4 line.I tried a -3 with one restrictor still had smoke issue.turns out my turbo likes 45 psi lol.


Every motor is different


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## Zorba2.0 (Jan 28, 2005)

Even with a restrictor, I blew the oil seal on my t3. My cold oil pressure is ~80 psi.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> The use of the restrictor is determined by line pressure and every engine/turbo is different. For instance a S2000 has a hot oil pressure of 85psi when cold but I bet VWs dont get that much.


Correct, so different restrictors will be needed to bring the pressure down to what that specific turbo needs on the given motor....

s2000 motors probably run some of the highest oil pressure than any 4cylinder to run vtec @ 9k.
I have the specs on the motor and the amount of oil flow is just rediculous.

I have never ran a restrictor on my ABA and I do see 100psi in the cold, I have only ran journal bearing turbos and never blew any seals.... I also have my return line tapped into the block.
-3an feed
-10an return


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

Thanks, now i just have to wait for the line to arrive.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

thatofinthedistance said:


> Honestly I think you have a good idea. But heres what I would suggest. Get a Short Runner intake, and put on a G60 valve cover. the mk4 intake mani is cool, but it just dosent look that great. Not that clean. Just dosent flow imo.
> I would go with the 2.5, and what are you running for management? I would go C2 motorsports stage2, and everything that goes along with it.
> Its helpful to not RUSH ANYTHING. Get a secondary car to daily. Dont have a project as your daily driver. lol it makes things hard sometimes. Maybe Build the head a little bit, for sure run full synthetic, clean stuff up, do it all right the first time, and you will be happy.
> You will need a boost gauge, oil, and one to see if your running lean or rich.
> ...


Sorry for a late reply and an over-all thanks.
But I have come back with yet one more question! lol.

I decided to go forth with the AEG manifold, for it's looks and the engine cover. 


Now here's my problem, I'm not dumb, but I'm not understanding the difference between cam chipping and the turbo software, STOP right there, read what I typed again, please don't think I'm thhhaattt dumb. 

I mean, when I buy my cams, and C2 STG2, do they have different chip ports? Or does the c2 replace the cam chip completely and do away for the necessity for the cam chip?

I'm all for ABA-T's, just trying to do it right the first time around and any help I get from any source is entirely appreciated! :heart:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

AJmustDIE said:


> I mean, when I buy my cams, and C2 STG2, do they have different chip ports? Or does the c2 replace the cam chip completely and do away for the necessity for the cam chip?


You got it. The c2 chip replaces the cam chip.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

PBWB said:


> You got it. The c2 chip replaces the cam chip.


Thanks a ton. :heart:


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

As for the restrictor goes call the distributor or manufacturer about it. Both Killa and kinetic motorsport advised me not to use one with my 57trim t3/t4. No smoking and been running strong for over 25xxx miles and 2 years.


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

im getting a motor that wont have the MAF, should i just buy a VR6 one rather than the 2.0? this will be an OBD1 motor, running on an OBD2 ecu and wiring with a C2 chip (probably the 63# setup, havent got injectors yet)... is the VR6 the one i should go with? or no?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

2mAn said:


> im getting a motor that wont have the MAF, should i just buy a VR6 one rather than the 2.0? this will be an OBD1 motor, running on an OBD2 ecu and wiring with a C2 chip (probably the 63# setup, havent got injectors yet)... is the VR6 the one i should go with? or no?


I think the part numbers between the vr and aba mafs are different, so I'd say no. Get an aba maf and just pick up a VR housing.

And what are you talking about with a 63# setup? C2 only has eproms that support up to 42# injectors.


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## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

yea i guess you're right. i thought they had one, but i checked their site and didnt see it... guess ill keep searching


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## Rocambolesque (Apr 18, 2010)

For those running OBD1 with the stock manifold, what do you do with the ISV? I can see its still there in the pictures but where did you plug the pipe at?


----------



## 2mAn (Oct 15, 2006)

how many of you stack head gaskets? i like BBMs low compression headgasket but it costs as much as 4 stock headgaskets. im going to buy ARP headstuds and a new headgasket, but i dont want to spend a stupid amount of money on it. do G60 headgaskets drop the CR? also heard the AAZ is a good one to use


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Rocambolesque said:


> For those running OBD1 with the stock manifold, what do you do with the ISV? I can see its still there in the pictures but where did you plug the pipe at?


You mean the in or the out of the ISV? I took the intake port from the charge piping and the out port went to the manifold were it always did. The ISV leaks so you need to keep it closed system or you can have ugly boost leaks.



2mAn said:


> how many of you stack head gaskets? i like BBMs low compression headgasket but it costs as much as 4 stock headgaskets. im going to buy ARP headstuds and a new headgasket, but i dont want to spend a stupid amount of money on it. do G60 headgaskets drop the CR? also heard the AAZ is a good one to use


I have ran stacked Vicker R. gaskets for a long time, many others have had as well. Some people seem to have had problems but I never did w/ ARP hardware over 250whp.
Spaced gaskets like C2 or BBM are always reliable but with good tuning you can get pretty far on stock CR. I'm currently running 'stock' 9.6:1 on a built motor.


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

2mAn said:


> how many of you stack head gaskets? i like BBMs low compression headgasket but it costs as much as 4 stock headgaskets. im going to buy ARP headstuds and a new headgasket, but i dont want to spend a stupid amount of money on it. do G60 headgaskets drop the CR? also heard the AAZ is a good one to use


BFI has some a little cheaper 3 different sizes also.
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/spahespaba4c.html
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/spahe1.html
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/spahe0aba4cy.html


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

so where do you guys get your coolant feed from for watercooled turbos? also fittings? i know its a 16x1.5 thread but cant't get the banjo to work because the wrench or socket(22mm like powersteering banjo) won't fit unless its a small head bango or fitting that will thread on and lines to go to feed and return


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTDi89 said:


> so where do you guys get your coolant feed from for watercooled turbos? also fittings? i know its a 16x1.5 thread but cant't get the banjo to work because the wrench or socket(22mm like powersteering banjo) won't fit unless its a small head bango or fitting that will thread on and lines to go to feed and return


I used to tee the coolant line going from the cylinder head to the expansion tank. Just get the correct thread end and the other end a push on barb style.

Use this style for the tee:









And this fitting on the turbo:


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

i thought of using the cylinder head port to, but is there flow always from start up? Also what about the return from the turbo? Would it be easier to run from the head to turbo, then back of turbo to coolant tank?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTDi89 said:


> i thought of using the cylinder head port to, but is there flow always from start up? Also what about the return from the turbo? Would it be easier to run from the head to turbo, then back of turbo to coolant tank?


I think there is (don't quote me), but if not, it's not a real concern regardless until engine temps are up. The purpose of the coolant galley in the turbo is to help cool the oil (indirectly) which would lose viscosity faster without it (in theory) as well as cool the CHRA. When the engine is cold, you're really hurting absolutely nothing by not having coolant flowing through the turbo.

And how you said it was how it should be done. I just couldn't remember if that's how I ended up doing my old setup or not.....


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## jsneed (Jan 26, 2011)

GTDi89 said:


> i thought of using the cylinder head port to, but is there flow always from start up? Also what about the return from the turbo? Would it be easier to run from the head to turbo, then back of turbo to coolant tank?


I just put the turbo in parrallel with the heater core. I don't know why you'd need coolant flowing through the turbo if the engine isn't at temp, you really wouldn't want to be spinning the turbo very hard with a cold engine anyway.


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## skillfullchap (Apr 18, 2009)

*tranny ?*

anyone know whats the best tranny for mk3 2.0 turbo that will give me good gear ratio and allow me to have full boost throughout all gears?


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## demonmk2 (Mar 19, 2006)

a G60 tranny, maybe


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Any 4banger 02a trans is good to start with, :thumbup:


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## skillfullchap (Apr 18, 2009)

wat car is this from yr n model, 4banger 02a trans?


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Looks like you need to do a little VW car history research, learn your cars.
But here, http://www.techtonicstuning.com/TransRatios.html


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## skillfullchap (Apr 18, 2009)

what are the codes of the trannys that can fit my 2.0 mk3?


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

skillfullchap said:


> what are the codes of the trannys that can fit my 2.0 mk3?


If it bolted onto a 4cyl VW, it will bolt on to yours.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

AJmustDIE said:


> If it bolted onto a 4cyl VW, it will bolt on to yours.


Not true....Mk1 transmissions and I believe (don't quote me here) some early mk2 transmissions had the smaller input shaft. Be careful and go here for most info:

http://www.scirocco.org/gears/


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

PBWB said:


> Not true....Mk1 transmissions and I believe (don't quote me here) some early mk2 transmissions had the smaller input shaft. Be careful and go here for most info:
> 
> http://www.scirocco.org/gears/


Actually ABA and 16V 020 gearboxes have the big shaft all of the 1.8L and smaller motors got the small shaft but all you have to do is match the clutch disc to the input shaft. 4 cylinder 02A,02J, and 02M trannys will also bolt to an ABA but require a hydraulic clutch swap and different flywheel and clutch parts.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> Not true....Mk1 transmissions and I believe (don't quote me here) some early mk2 transmissions had the smaller input shaft. Be careful and go here for most info:
> 
> http://www.scirocco.org/gears/


The only thing you have to do to swap these is to change the clutch disk. Some of the very early 5 speeds also need the holes drilled and tapped to put on the trans mount.

All that said I dont recommend using a O2O style trans with boost anyways.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Prof315 said:


> Actually ABA and 16V 020 gearboxes have the big shaft all of the 1.8L and smaller motors got the small shaft


That's why I said that I believe some early mk2s have the small input shaft.....


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## vento86 (Oct 13, 2008)

The intercooler is gonna get replaced at some point.

Aba built head with AT270
HD valve springs
Stock bottom end.
OEM reciirc valve
Turbonetics 38mm WG
ATP manifold
2:5 IC piping.
T04H turbo
C2 42# tune
3 inch maf

And its in a mk1


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Pics!? Finally!? lol. Look good man.. now about that manifold...  lol.
Got it running yet?


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## vento86 (Oct 13, 2008)

AJmustDIE said:


> Pics!? Finally!? lol. Look good man.. now about that manifold...  lol.
> Got it running yet?


Not yyet. Gotta finish the wiring inside and ut the axles back in the car. And I would to love to get the short runner but the stock manifold will do.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

vento86 said:


> Not yyet. Gotta finish the wiring inside and ut the axles back in the car. And I would to love to get the short runner but the stock manifold will do.


Check sig. I will give you a sweet deal on it.


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## Water Boy (Dec 14, 2007)

Some aussie Mk4 aba turbo goodness:


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

specs ??


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## mrbatavus (Nov 29, 2008)

so they swap the aeg for the aba......ineteresting.....


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## 24vVr6gti (Oct 18, 2004)

Filthydubber said:


> obd2 block and head 110k stock compression
> tt 268 cam
> TT hd valve springs
> Deleted A/C
> ...


:wave::heart::thumbup:


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## Water Boy (Dec 14, 2007)

mrbatavus said:


> so they swap the aeg for the aba......ineteresting.....


 Sorry you are correct it is an AEG.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

look for someone to port and polish a head for me

maybe bertils.....


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## 96VDubbin (Mar 22, 2003)

Those of you that are still using the 020 trans what clutchs are you all using? I've had no luck on my previous 2, I'm considering switching 2 an 02a/02j. 
TIA


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

If you are blowing the springs you need an unsprung.The cable trans wont help that


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## 96VDubbin (Mar 22, 2003)

guess Ill try that before I switch completely, thanx


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## 95jetta17 (Jan 21, 2008)

vento is that a mk4 side mount. i need a vento lip so i can put the painted vento bumper on

loving my 02a swap (not pictured)


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## vento86 (Oct 13, 2008)

Yes it is.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

what kinda oil is everybody running?

new radiator setup and general cleaning happened to mine


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## vento86 (Oct 13, 2008)

I'm running 10w-40 syn


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## 96VDubbin (Mar 22, 2003)

@ daskoupe, what intake manifold is that??


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

i made it:wave:


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

95jetta17 said:


> vento is that a mk4 side mount. i need a vento lip so i can put the painted vento bumper on
> 
> loving my 02a swap (not pictured)


WWAAYYY off topic, but can someone PM me a pic of this Vento Grille color matched. 
Imagination FAIL:thumbdown:

Sorry guys


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> what kinda oil is everybody running?



20w50 kendal gt1 with zinc from autozone.


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## o4rudeboy (Dec 8, 2008)

*what the heck is the motorcyle exhaust looking can in waterboys bay photos*

i what does it do ? help?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

its an air filter
BDC or something really popular over seas


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> its an air filter
> BDC or something really popular over seas


Can you get me a better pic of that please?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

of what


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

At first start up my car wants to idle at 875 rpm and bounces up and down til its warmed up. sometimes even after warm up and steady rpm it will just stall out as though its run out of gas or iac is bad. got a misfire 2 and 3 today after like 40miles of driving so i went to work and tried doing an injector service, cleared the codes and drove for another 30ish miles and no codes yet and feels a little better but stalled out once or twice after service(on its own at a steady idle). Any tips to bump the rpm up so it will idle at 1100 rpm for cold start and 900ish after warm up with vagcom?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> of what


Of that filter you were speaking of. I am looking for a nice low profile filter for a kit we produce and that looks like it may fit the bill perfectly.


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

15w 40 Mobile 1 Full Synthetic. :thumbup:


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## upoo2 (Dec 7, 2005)

Thinking of using a GT25, .50 compressor, .48 exhaust. A bit small, what does everyone think?


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## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

^^I dont have an answer to your question...but I do have a new turbo


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## STEALTHCORRADO (Oct 14, 2005)

[/QUOTE]

any more pics of the intake


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

upoo2 said:


> Thinking of using a GT25, .50 compressor, .48 exhaust. A bit small, what does everyone think?


that would be perfect........on a 500cc sportbike that is


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Dave what was that last turbo you ran before you sold the GTI?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

thinking about dropping to a ar 48 housing for my exhaust side....Need quicker spool with this new trans


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

i guess i didnt see this thread 

heres my setup.

Obd1 rebuilt motor
Wiseco stock comp pistons (was gonna go 16v)
9:1 head spacer
garrett t3/t4 50 trim .48 a/r
spa manifold and wastegate
2.5" dp and exhaust
2" ic piping
front mount behind bumper
custom SRI
270* Autotech cam
42# injectors
megasquirt (MSnS Extra v2.2)
255lph Walbro
stage 3 grip-force clutch $157 Ebay baby! it holds great so far and uses the same flywheel as my old car (my clutchnet stage 3 was $300 and it blew up in a year)

car made 241 at 13psi. its at 17 psi now so im assuming im at about 265 now with the 270* cam...

the torque is low because my cam was timed back a tooth for the dyno accidentally 









thats pretty much it for now
when i get the money im going to do a Kinetic manifold and 38mm 2-bolt wastegate. i cant stand the SPA wastegate setup/location. then 630cc injectors and the 3" exhaust thats in my apartment wasting space!



















next to my daily '89 golf
jetta is an '87


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Flip wheres full boost at?


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Full boost is at about 4700 but its only because the wastegate is running off the spring. I can hear it opening at 5 psi  

When the wastegate was functioning well it hit full boost at about 4200. Hence why i want the upgraded manifold and wastegate.

Last time i had the boost at 23 lbs it hit full boost at 4700 and my god did it haul. But my injectors are crying. Im almost at 100% duty at 16 psi.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

damn i'm at 4800 with my ar 63.Thats on a MBC set to 23psi.(team psi manifold,with external)
I wonder how much it will drop when you switch manifolds


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

There is something wrong going on there. With my 5557 billet I hit full boost (30 psi ) by 4200-4300.


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Tigninja you are running a custom exhaust manifold right? More flow before the turbo is gonna give you better spooling on that big turbo. A cast manifold with less flow is filling with less air which takes a little bit longer to spool up. 

I hate hearing my wg open so soon. Its annoying. This winter at least everything will be different.


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Offtopic question guys.... 

I have this spa wastegate that i hear opening at 5 lbs and then holds at 14psi. Wont go higher than that. I have a mbc but it doesnt seem to do anything. Turn it up or down the boost stays the same. Everything is hooked up right. The mbc is in between the compressor housing and the wastegate. But it seems the wastegate doesnt care what my vacuum lines read... it just opens on the spring at all times. It never used to be like this. The boost controller adjusted the boost like it should. But now ive tried everything. Even down to unhooking any vacuum at all to the wg and it STILL opens at 5 psi. So im stumped. The wastegate is adjustable spring compression. Has a stud with a nut on it sticking out the top. No vacuum line on the top port only a line on the bottom port.


----------



## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

TIGninja said:


> There is something wrong going on there. With my 5557 billet I hit full boost (30 psi ) by 4200-4300.


you hit 500whp yet? we need an update


----------



## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

fastrabbit said:


> you hit 500whp yet? we need an update


Slowly working on it. The last time it was on the dyno it did 435/377.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Flipdriver80 said:


> Offtopic question guys....
> 
> I have this spa wastegate that i hear opening at 5 lbs and then holds at 14psi. Wont go higher than that. I have a mbc but it doesnt seem to do anything. Turn it up or down the boost stays the same. Everything is hooked up right. The mbc is in between the compressor housing and the wastegate. But it seems the wastegate doesnt care what my vacuum lines read... it just opens on the spring at all times. It never used to be like this. The boost controller adjusted the boost like it should. But now ive tried everything. Even down to unhooking any vacuum at all to the wg and it STILL opens at 5 psi. So im stumped. The wastegate is adjustable spring compression. Has a stud with a nut on it sticking out the top. No vacuum line on the top port only a line on the bottom port.


Maybe the springs had it,or the diaphragm?I have a issue which is anything over 22psi my boost gauge isnt steady i believe that to be a spring issue though...

take it apart and check your dia.


----------



## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Im actually working on designing a manifold for these cars that doesnt suck balls or use any oddball parts.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I'll be one of your first customers. :beer:


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## johnka (May 17, 2010)

*Questions*

Hi guys, greetings from Costa Rica. I have a question about my jetta. I have a 1995 GLS aba engine Jetta, and I did a project with it and I put a turbo on it. The car is running great, but I need some more fuel. I read that almost everybody uses 42lb injectors. My question is what kind of car use this injectors? Is because I have to find the right injectors for my Jetta. Right now I am running only 3lb, stock engine, and a 1.9 passat TDI turbo and intercooler. Can anybody help me here?

Best Regards


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

johnka said:


> Hi guys, greetings from Costa Rica. I have a question about my jetta. I have a 1995 GLS aba engine Jetta, and I did a project with it and I put a turbo on it. The car is running great, but I need some more fuel. I read that almost everybody uses 42lb injectors. My question is what kind of car use this injectors? Is because I have to find the right injectors for my Jetta. Right now I am running only 3lb, stock engine, and a 1.9 passat TDI turbo and intercooler. Can anybody help me here?
> 
> Best Regards


Just order them from C2, or anywhere for that matter.


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## johnka (May 17, 2010)

AJmustDIE said:


> Just order them from C2, or anywhere for that matter.


Sorry for my question, I am a new in here, what is C2?, some kind of store?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

johnka said:


> Hi guys, greetings from Costa Rica. I have a question about my jetta. I have a 1995 GLS aba engine Jetta, and I did a project with it and I put a turbo on it. The car is running great, but I need some more fuel. I read that almost everybody uses 42lb injectors. My question is what kind of car use this injectors? Is because I have to find the right injectors for my Jetta. Right now I am running only 3lb, stock engine, and a 1.9 passat TDI turbo and intercooler. Can anybody help me here?
> 
> Best Regards


42's are overkill for that tiny turbo. A set of G60 injectors would probably work fine especially if you went with a 4 bar regulator.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

42lb injectors are from a ford mustang. The injectors are made by bosch. Any high impendance 42 lb injectors will work though. The bosch ones are just easier/ cheaper to get because they are stock fitment on the very common ford mustang. Not positive which model though. Pretty sure its the SVT COBRA. 

However based on the turbo you are using a set of g60 (28 lb i believe) injectors or 36lb injectors would work fine for you. 

C2 is a company that makes tuning solutions for many turbo or supercharger applications. They use a MAF to measure airflow which then tells the computer chip how much fuel and timing to apply to the engine based on rpms, oxygen sensor levels, and air flow into the engine. Among many other things. The chip is a cheaper solution in general to standalone management but its very specialized... every time you change something a new chip is needed. With standalone 2 minutes in the computer and your adjusted to your new modufications. 

If you are going to do c2 you are going to need the 42lb injector chip and the hardware they require you to buy which includes the mass airflow sensor. 

Good luck.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Guys ever have an issue with backfiring before the engine gets worked a little? My warmup cycle turns off and i start ripping on the car but at about full boost it backfires like im hitting a rev limiter. Then boost it high a couple more times and its on point running all the way til redline. I keep thnking its my timing. My afrs are fine. But maybe i just need a stronger spark aka buy an msd box. Or maybe the engine just physically isnt hot enough?? Im kinda stumped with this one. Thanks. I always end up changing timing to adjust things but i think the timing is fine.


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## johnka (May 17, 2010)

Thank you very much for all the answer, very good information. I have one question, a G60 corrado injectors will fit on my ABA engine?, do I have to do anything to put them in my cars engine?


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

No issue with fitment just take out the old ones and install the new ones. Takes just a couple minutes.


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## johnka (May 17, 2010)

Excelent news, I am going to try with G60 injectors and see how it works


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

AJmustDIE said:


> I'll be one of your first customers. :beer:


I am starting work on the casting pattern today.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

What kind of design is it in general. Dont need to give away your secrets. Just wondering if i should wait lol.


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## dubblicious (Aug 24, 2007)

What size silicone coupler is everyone using from the throttle body inlet? 2.5" or 2.75" I am trying to order everything. Oh ya its a MKIII throttle body from a 94" Jetta. Thanks everyone.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

I believe it's a 2.5"


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Flipdriver80 said:


> What kind of design is it in general. Dont need to give away your secrets. Just wondering if i should wait lol.


I an going to be building something that fits better then the atp one but is very simple. I have to finish the s2000 on I started on first.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

dubblicious said:


> What size silicone coupler is everyone using from the throttle body inlet? 2.5" or 2.75" I am trying to order everything. Oh ya its a MKIII throttle body from a 94" Jetta. Thanks everyone.


Do you not have it with you to measure? I think its 2" actually. The 2.0 intake is small. Im using a vr6 throttle body on mine which i think is 2.5"


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Obd 1 vr is actually 3.25(huge lip on it).But yeah just measure it lol


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> damn i'm at 4800 with my ar 63.Thats on a MBC set to 23psi.(team psi manifold,with external)
> I wonder how much it will drop when you switch manifolds


Thats basically where i'm at with my 57trim .63... when I ran a 50trim .48 I hit 20psi by 3.6k... talk about torque monster


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Flipdriver80 said:


> Do you not have it with you to measure? I think its 2" actually. The 2.0 intake is small. Im using a vr6 throttle body on mine which i think is 2.5"


It is definitely not 2"s lol,


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

GTijoejoe said:


> Thats basically where i'm at with my 57trim .63... when I ran a 50trim .48 I hit 20psi by 3.6k... talk about torque monster


thats where i wanna be sometimes.And other times no.What kills me is the gear box is so tall with CCM gears and FD,that i have to wait for it between gears(unless i keep it floored)


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

Do you guys spray copper spray on headspacer and gaskets when reusing spacer and new headgasket?


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## STEALTHCORRADO (Oct 14, 2005)

I did, and have no problems as of yet


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

GTDi89 said:


> Do you guys spray copper spray on headspacer and gaskets when reusing spacer and new headgasket?


I normally do.. everytime with the HG just in case... I've done it ~5-6 times now never had an issue.


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## 95jetta17 (Jan 21, 2008)

GTijoejoe said:


> Thats basically where i'm at with my 57trim .63... when I ran a 50trim .48 I hit 20psi by 3.6k... talk about torque monster


thinking about going to this size instead of the precision super 60....i hit 25 psi at 5 grand im sick of playing catch up with this 60 trim


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

95jetta17 said:


> thinking about going to this size instead of the precision super 60....i hit 25 psi at 5 grand im sick of playing catch up with this 60 trim




saame


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

95jetta17 said:


> thinking about going to this size instead of the precision super 60....i hit 25 psi at 5 grand im sick of playing catch up with this 60 trim


what about if you advance your valve timing ?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

jimivr6 said:


> what about if you advance your valve timing ?


That is a very good suggestion, and actually I am looking into doing that to see if I can get my spool down a few 100's..... My goal is 3-500rpm sooner would be great.

.... and before anybody wants to comment about top end, it is certainly possible not to lose any top end power by advancing timing, especially with a large enough compressor/exh housing, I've seen it before


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

I am running a MSnS extra megasquirt setup right now but im looking into a direct ignition setup right now. Ive figured out how to wire it to my ecu but im trying to figure out the trigger wheel setup. The aba has a 60-2 trigger wheel stock so i hope i can do it with the ms1 without upgrading.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

To comment on the valve timing issue im runnning a 270 cam and have full boost running off the wg spring at 5100. I think the cam has a lot to do with that. I gonna crank the cam timing back a few degrees and see if i get the motor to spool the turbo a bit faster.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

GTijoejoe said:


> That is a very good suggestion, and actually I am looking into doing that to see if I can get my spool down a few 100's..... My goal is 3-500rpm sooner would be great.
> 
> .... and before anybody wants to comment about top end, it is certainly possible not to lose any top end power by advancing timing, especially with a large enough compressor/exh housing, I've seen it before


When I put my engine together earlier this year I was actually off a tooth and the spool went up but power fell flat on its face. Its not worth it,


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

is it really worth putting a turbo on an aba? especially with 8valves?


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## Dmoneythegreat (Jan 13, 2010)

SlzzyDzzy said:


> is it really worth putting a turbo on an aba? especially with 8valves?


Depends on your goals.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

I'm also running the 270 at cam and did the same thing with the stock cam gear I ran with one thooth advanced and it spooled much faster but the top end where the big turbo should shine it was a disaster. 

Maybe with an adjustable cam gear you could get somewhere in the middle but I think that an approximate guess here is what you may gain in spool you might lose in top end. :beer:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Flipdriver80 said:


> I am running a MSnS extra megasquirt setup right now but im looking into a direct ignition setup right now. Ive figured out how to wire it to my ecu but im trying to figure out the trigger wheel setup. The aba has a 60-2 trigger wheel stock so i hope i can do it with the ms1 without upgrading.


As long as you have a v3.0 or v3.57 mainboard it can be done easily. It can still be done with a V2.2 mainboard but you'll need to buy/build a VR conditioner.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

SlzzyDzzy said:


> is it really worth putting a turbo on an aba? especially with 8valves?


Why not, 200 whp is simple, 300whp is very doable. Much more than that is an utter waste on a street car and even with a 20V or 16V it gets expensive to go above say 350whp.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Prof315 said:


> Why not, 200 whp is simple, 300whp is very doable. Much more than that is an utter waste on a street car and even with a 20V or 16V it gets expensive to go above say 350whp.


And what I have found is that the cheapest way to make enough power to crush the stock gearset on O2a/O2j trans is with an ABA. They also seem to have the same failure power level in stock form.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Chuck are you running something other than stock gears at this point?


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

SlzzyDzzy said:


> is it really worth putting a turbo on an aba? especially with 8valves?


My car made 240 on a mustang dyno at 13 lbs. After i put my cam in it pepped it up even more. Aba can make power. I can beat the piss out of that motor and it just keeps on tickin. Anything above 250 or so is not prctical for the street anyway. Especially front wheel drive.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> When I put my engine together earlier this year I was actually off a tooth and the spool went up but power fell flat on its face. Its not worth it,


One tooth is alot though.... either way, what size cam where you running?
I'm going to log it, easy enough to switch back and forth... I'll show the results this weekend most likely.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Prof315 said:


> As long as you have a v3.0 or v3.57 mainboard it can be done easily. It can still be done with a V2.2 mainboard but you'll need to buy/build a VR conditioner.


What is a vr conditioner? I was just reading about using the 1.8t coil drivers and fitting them to the ecu. i know what a vr sensor is i just need to know how to wire it into the ecu.



GTijoejoe said:


> One tooth is alot though.... either way, what size cam where you running?
> I'm going to log it, easy enough to switch back and forth... I'll show the results this weekend most likely.


i dynod my car a tooth retard on the cam. thats why the torque number is **** on my dyno sheet and it spooled so late. but it still made good power. i really need to put my adjustable timing gear a couple degrees advanced and see how it runs because its still a little late getting to boost with the 270 cam. :laugh:


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Wiring the VR sensor is very easy. Follow diagram and done. Direct coil will need some modding, unless you do COP with MS3x, I just got my MS3 with ms3x board modded to run a Ford EDIS coil off of 60-2 crank with wasted spark. I'll let you know how it turns out. Installing it this week.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

AJmustDIE said:


> Chuck are you running something other than stock gears at this point?


Nope. Stock G60 trans with LSD.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> Nope. Stock G60 trans with LSD.


thats what I run too :thumbup:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

running 02j,ccm 1-4 and fd,TDI 5th.....Can you say tall


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## xcracer87 (Aug 15, 2004)

TIGninja said:


> Nope. Stock G60 trans with LSD.


What LSD are you running? Also did you upgrade your R&P too? 

I just blew up my o2a this past weekend. I was in half throttle when 3rd gear just let go. 
Atleast this one lasted for a year and a half. eace:


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

TIGninja said:


> When I put my engine together earlier this year I was actually off a tooth and the spool went up but power fell flat on its face. Its not worth it,


depends on your application.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

peloquin LSD here


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## ArsenicPants (Apr 6, 2008)

my ABA turbo waiting to go into my '82 mk1 jetta project
it's a '95 OBD1 motor, stock everything, with an AEG intake, k14 turbo (tiny, for now, but I had it anyways), 2.5" piping, 6x2.5x21" intercooler, TT downpipe, catch can, V-belt deleted & external oil cooler


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Looks legit man. :thumbup:


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

I am having issues with going obd2 on my obd1 aba, can someone direct me to what i need for standalone? want to do this over the winter. Maybe a setup fs or tips


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

GTDi89 said:


> I am having issues with going obd2 on my obd1 aba, can someone direct me to what i need for standalone? want to do this over the winter. Maybe a setup fs or tips


ECU, Harness, Wideband o2 w/controller for tuning. Other than that it depends what stand alone you use. OBD2 uses a different throttle body than OBD1, really thats the only major difference in the engine. But if you have an OBD1 throttle, keep it. Its MUCH easier to wire up a stand alone to it. If you go stand alone you are no longer OBD1 or 2, you are simply awesome.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

SirSpectre said:


> If you go stand alone you are no longer OBD1 or 2, you are simply awesome.


:laugh:


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

ArsenicPants said:


> my ABA turbo waiting to go into my '82 mk1 jetta project
> it's a '95 OBD1 motor, stock everything, with an AEG intake, k14 turbo (tiny, for now, but I had it anyways), 2.5" piping, 6x2.5x21" intercooler, TT downpipe, catch can, V-belt deleted & external oil cooler



I like the way you did your oil lines. Did you use stainless steel or copper tubes?


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

i went with obd2 because i had a c2 stage 2 chip for obd2. was obd1 and since im a state inspector, i can verify that the vehicle is within specs for emissions.... so everything i need for standalone would help, how does it actually work? i mean im sure ill figure it out slowly, i learn thru hands on expierence and electrical is sort of my specialty.


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

also want to go with megasquirt


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Well first thing, is sell that c2 software. It does literally nothing with a stand alone. Everything is handled by Megasquirt. Keep that obd1 TB it helps with the install for the TPS.

First thing is wiring up the harness. I assume you want it to control spark and fuel.
Then all you need is a Laptop (prefered) the cable, tuning software and the ECU.
Megasquirt needs
O2 input
Intake temp
Coolant Temp
Throttle position
Someway to get engine RPM (through crank sensor or cam sensor) Crank recommended for ABA
Knock sensor (not needed but very useful if you are new at this (like me)
Then once everything is installed, hook up the laptop, get it configured and set fuel map and spark map and take off! Adjust enrichment for crank, warmup, and acceleration as needed.

This replaces your ECU completely if you want. I still have my OEM in to watch coolant level and oil pressure, though both of those will be changing soon.


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

This is actually starting to sound like fun, lmao. Does Megasquirt have uploadable files? Or is it per burnt chip that has all info stored in for certain application?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

GTDi89 said:


> This is actually starting to sound like fun, lmao. Does Megasquirt have uploadable files? Or is it per burnt chip that has all info stored in for certain application?


Wouldn't be fun if you could only have 1 file. 

Yes 100% uploadable and editable. You make the fuel maps based on engine RPM and engine pressure through MAP sensor ( no MAF needed at all TAKE IT OFF!!!! :thumbup: ) I have a few maps laying around for a few purposes, track day, daily driving, both 93, 87 octane and running on e85.

With a stand alone you can swap and edit maps on the fly, and use any fuel you want. I wouldn't recommend trying though. Stick to gas or e85. If you _really_ wanted to I have a map for propane, natural gas, and hydrogen just for the hell of it (no I havent ran them its all base on theoretical ratios and math)


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Can you guys point me in the direction of the FMIC you are using on a mk3 that fits with the condensor still intact and NOT have to butcher the bumper cover??

I have a smallish E-bay IC thats about 3.5" deep and there is no way to keep the a/c and have the lower center section of the bumper cover and lip intact.

Its my daily, so its not a wild setup. I want to keep the a/c, but I would like to run an IC also. Any suggestions?

I looked through pics and there are some that look like they fit in with the bumper cover fully intact. I'd like to know where to find that size IC. 

THanks for any help!!


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Take off your front clip, everything but the radiator and AC assembly, you're going to see how it mounts to the subframe, one bolt on each side. 

What your going to have to do it remove your factory fan setup, it's too bulky and well, it's just ugly. 
You're going to have to use 2 10" slim fans, you can get them from anywhere on the internet. 

Now that you have all of that done, you're going to have to take some metal, drill a hole in it and pretty much just move the mounting position of the radiator assembly. I believe you can move it back 2" at most. 

Here is mine, I only had to move it back an inch because I have an AWIC setup. 










Don't hate on my welds.. they were my first. lol.


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

thats a great idea! I hadn't thought of that. Thanks man, I'll have a look next time I'm working on the car. So what did you do for the top of the rad? Did you make brackets, or drill diff holes? 

I'm reading through your build tread...looks good man!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Ran my friends rb powered 240 to4 on 15 psi vs. my aba.he had some issue from the 80 plus due to it breaking up over,6k.but I don't think another 1500 would help lol 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHOIBTaK50U&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## akid420 (Apr 23, 2009)

took apart this garret t3 turbo and found some bad news on the exhaust housing. 
before i took the turbo apart the turbine wheels spun fine and didnt scratch but the one circled in yellow looks like its had some contact. 
the ones circled in red are hair line fractions. 
any one know if it can be fixed or if it needs to be replaced?


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## jettaiv4turbochrg (Feb 24, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

this is how i did my rad setup. i put an ABA fan setup on my car and moved the radiator back on the passenger side to be parallel to the front of the car. i just made a bracket in order to move in order to move it back. and on the bottom i just made a bracket that moved the mounting point backward.


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

akid420 said:


> took apart this garret t3 turbo and found some bad news on the exhaust housing.
> before i took the turbo apart the turbine wheels spun fine and didnt scratch but the one circled in yellow looks like its had some contact.
> the ones circled in red are hair line fractions.
> any one know if it can be fixed or if it needs to be replaced?


seen plenty cracked just like that...they are fine..wont hurt a thing...
if it ever leaks exhaust (it wont) then worry


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## DerekCaven (Feb 24, 2011)

Whats the cheapest manifold to find (scrapyard?) for a mk4 2.0l with a T3 style mount? I welded my stock one but im not sure if i trust it


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

DerekCaven said:


> Whats the cheapest manifold to find (scrapyard?) for a mk4 2.0l with a T3 style mount? I welded my stock one but im not sure if i trust it


these aren't scrap yard parts.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

DerekCaven said:


> Whats the cheapest manifold to find (scrapyard?) for a mk4 2.0l with a T3 style mount? I welded my stock one but im not sure if i trust it


my advice is dont cut corners when going turbo. buy the right parts or wait til you have the money.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Flipdriver80 said:


> my advice is dont cut corners when going turbo. buy the right parts or wait til you have the money.


I know this isn't the answer any of you budget builders want.but its the truth


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## DerekCaven (Feb 24, 2011)

I was just wondering if you could use like a TDI setup or something manifold wise, because i dont wanna wait 2 weeks for an ebay part.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

I know compression lowering was a ways back in this thread but I was messing around on the lathe at work today.


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

I wanna play!

1994 Jetta
OBD1 ABA
9:1 HG spacer
C2 42lb software
LW Int. shaft
14lb G60 Flywheel
Kenedy Pressure Plate and 6 puck sprung hub disc
02A with CCM gear set, Quaife differential, 02J shift setup
EIP reinforced release lever
T04E (.63 exhaust, "50 trim")
ATP turbo manifold
Turbosmart Ultra Gate 38
Greddy Type S BOV
TurboXS MBC
Innovate LC-1
Innovate Auto Timer
Autometer Ultra Lite Oil temp, pressure, boost.
1 off, horrendous intake manifold.

17PSI daily.

...no good pictures.
:beer:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

atrujillo1991 said:


> ...no good pictures.
> :beer:


vanntt!


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

TIGninja said:


> I know compression lowering was a ways back in this thread but I was messing around on the lathe at work today.


this seems like a great idea but i worry about the structural integrity from the bottom of the piston. how much did you take off and how much volume did you gain?


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## Whittle (Aug 23, 2010)

TIGninja said:


>


looks to be done manually, if so how do you make sure each piston is exactly the same?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Well I did some fuel pressure testing this weekend between the oem 3 and 4 bar.

[email protected] =34 psi
[email protected] load =45 psi

The 4 bar is as you figured alot more on the aba

[email protected] =46 psi 
[email protected] =pegged out the 60 psi gauge.
Result on my setup was a richer 23 psi(11.4 and holding) before the 3 bar would struggle to stay below 13.8 eventually climbing down to a 12.5

Overall very happy with the gain from such a small part lol (and free pocket item at the local junkyard)


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

Does your car idle?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

very well and the afr is right at 14.7:laugh:


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Whittle said:


> looks to be done manually, if so how do you make sure each piston is exactly the same?


No it looks like it was done on a lathe

And I assume the best way would be by weightning all the pistons until they all weight the same :thumbup:


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## Whittle (Aug 23, 2010)

Myliljettatoy said:


> No it looks like it was done on a lathe
> 
> And I assume the best way would be by weightning all the pistons until they all weight the same :thumbup:


no ****. a manual lathe.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Whittle said:


> no ****. a manual lathe.


Mr. obvious ^^^ sure its not cnc or else you wouldn't see the tool marks on the material :facepalm:

And your welcome for answering your dumb question:thumbup:


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## Two . Slow (Aug 5, 2009)

Awesome thread and hopefully I'll be part of it soon. 

If I was gonna run a stock obd1motor non intercooler on stock compression, cam and all that what turbo would be good? 

Looks to boost around 3-3300 only planning on 9-10psi. It's gonna be in a mk1 caddy with the stock diesel tranny. I want some top end pull for some high way fun. I know it's not gonna be balls fast but it should run good in a mk1 being so light

Thanks :beer:


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Two . Slow said:


> Awesome thread and hopefully I'll be part of it soon.
> 
> If I was gonna run a stock obd1motor non intercooler on stock compression, cam and all that what turbo would be good?
> 
> ...


You'll want something small, like GT25 or a ko3. Non intercooled you'll be lucky to get past 5000 rpm for top end and small turbo @ 9 psi. Stock compression I wouldn't go past 8 psi to be honest. It will ping like crazy. Do it right and get a spacer and intercooler, even a small side mount would be better than none.


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## Two . Slow (Aug 5, 2009)

I've talking to a few people that are running no intercooled and haven't conplained but it I would end up doing the spacer anyway do its done and head studs as well. I'm not going for power but like I said I want some fund but I'm not looking to have it fade away at 4k


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

*Turdbo!*






Enjoy opcorn:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*FV-QR*

nice lol,now turn it to 25!


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

:laugh: Working on it! Need to install my Walbaro and my BEGI RRFPR!


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

atrujillo1991 said:


> ......and my BEGI RRFPR!


why would you install this?
This is a poor direction to go


----------



## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

Do you have any better suggestions other than going standalone? I don't see why it should be an issue. It is adjusted so that stock fuel pressure is maintained until you pass a specified boost pressure at which point the FPR gives you additional fuel where you need it.

I mean is it the RIGHT way to do it? No. But will it work? Yes. And pretty well, too. I'll be monitoring AFRs closely.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*FV-QR*

what software are you on?


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

atrujillo1991 said:


> Do you have any better suggestions other than going standalone? I don't see why it should be an issue. It is adjusted so that stock fuel pressure is maintained until you pass a specified boost pressure at which point the FPR gives you additional fuel where you need it.
> 
> I mean is it the RIGHT way to do it? No. But will it work? Yes. And pretty well, too. I'll be monitoring AFRs closely.


Thank you for the explanation, although I don't give advice based on assumption. Have you ever used a rising rate regulator? In my experience they have been pretty poor everytime. Not very adjustable, normally extremely rich, not good consistent fuel deliverey throughout.

A better solution would be a fuel controler (AFC)..... the best solution would be proper management.


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

atrujillo1991 said:


> Enjoy opcorn:


hey your windsheild looks the same as mine!! 

:facepalm:


----------



## thatofinthedistance (Apr 1, 2009)

anyone have a catch can they are willing to sell for cheap? I need one!


----------



## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> what software are you on?


C2 "Stage 2", OBD1



GTijoejoe said:


> Thank you for the explanation, although I don't give advice based on assumption. Have you ever used a rising rate regulator? In my experience they have been pretty poor everytime. Not very adjustable, normally extremely rich, not good consistent fuel deliverey throughout.
> 
> A better solution would be a fuel controler (AFC)..... the best solution would be proper management.


I haven't had too much experience with them but BEGI is supposed to be the best and I guess there's only one way to find out! Got it FOREVER ago with a bunch of other turbo goodies I bought and managed to hold on to it for all these years so I might as well give it a shot. And for all the money and effort needed to run an AFC, I'd just go SEM. But the college budget won't allow for that at the moment.



mk21.8Tjetta said:


> hey your windsheild looks the same as mine!!
> 
> :facepalm:


Not any more! Replaced today  As soon as I can get my hands on a decent camera I'll take an actual video. That one is horrible.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Tbh there are some on ebay are the cheap as hell and really nice.
Just remember to actually use a medium (like SS or copper scouring pads) inside so it will actually collect inside and not go right through. :thumbup:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

all you need is a bigger fuel pump....


----------



## turbobunny007 (Feb 27, 2003)

*update::*

just an update on my set-up...finised my short runner, 270 cam and cleaned it up...hopefully get it on the dyno in the coming week and sad to say that i will be parting ways with her!! i have to sell cause i needed a plow for my buisness so she will be in the classified in a couple weeks:facepalm:

old pic:









new pics:


----------



## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

Seeing people run AT270 cams, wouldn't a AT260 be better? Or which cam would be considered good for these boosted ABA's?


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

It's not really about which cam is better, it's about which is right for your particular setup.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

For those of you looking to make power past 6k...the new 114LC TT276 cam is beast...pm me for details. I loved it in my 8vT


----------



## vento86 (Oct 13, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> For those of you looking to make power past 6k...the new 114LC TT276 cam is beast...pm me for details. I loved it in my 8vT


:thumbup:


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

God... I need to hurry up and button up my ****. Can't wait to freight train past 6-7k in my car...


----------



## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

Well i'm running a TT268 right now because thats what i had in it before boost. Head is port and polished, 3 angle valve job with super tech valves, auto tech valve spring upgrade kit. Tb034 turbo from a saab 16v. .48 ar with water/meth, and c2 stage 2 fuel kit with injectors. Runs fine but sometimes cold start up it idles like crap, what a mild cam with good idle and good power band. Currently can hold 20psi with stock fuel pump and no lean issues


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*FV-QR*

That might be next Q


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

GTDi89 said:


> Seeing people run AT270 cams, wouldn't a AT260 be better? Or which cam would be considered good for these boosted ABA's?


 Any 260 cam is going to be more desirable in a road type/rally race where you don't have time to wind gears up to oblivion. Other than that, don't be afraid of a little overlap. The turbo will provide all the torque you need below 400whp and will make up for you choosing a cam with higher duration.


[email protected] said:


> For those of you looking to make power past 6k...the new 114LC TT276 cam is beast...pm me for details. I loved it in my 8vT


Agreed. That cam is pretty balls. I'd def. go for that cam over the AT270 any day. Hell these days the 270 is slightly on the mild side in the grand scheme of things.....It's just that most aren't trying to make over 300whp.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> That might be next Q


Dooooooo IT!!


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

i have a 270 in mine but contrary to popular belief you CAN run a big cam in a turbo car, especially if its a BIG turbo and the engine is revving high. **** you could run a 288 cam and have not much issue. youd get a bit of overlap but the amount of lift would make up for it in the high rpm. the most id go for a street car would probably be a 276 though.


bottom line for a cam is you want the most amount of lift with the least amount of overlap and duration.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

First start up,

OBDI head, TT high flow intake and exhaust valves, ported and polished specifically for FI by a well respected race shop here in central FL,
Tectonics 276 114° lobe centers, HD valve springs, titanium retainers.
GT2876r (GT30 compressor housing), 3" downpipe, open at the moment.

Running on C2 Stg2 for the time being, car was not starting at first because I forgot to plug the hole in the throttle body post butterfly valve. Finally started when I hit the throttle.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

*FV-QR*

only changes to my setup

deleted ISV and a 4 bar










street tires,AC,full weight lol


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I hope that was on street tires. lol


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

replacing my trans mount for a BFI one and changing my driverside axle.Then going back out with the Mandh's


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Interested to see how you do on slicks :thumbup:

Don't *****foot around on them, that's how you break ****.


----------



## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

So i have 2 head spacers, one measure the 3.4mm(1point drop in compression) the other measures 1.9mm which i'm trying to figure out what that compression drop would be, stock headgasket is approx 1mm. I know BFI sold some SPA with various thickness for different drops but no actual info can be found on the internet now! Does anyone know of any idea how to get this info? Also, contacted C2 about what compression drop they recommend on their software, i would like to run a low compression ration than 10:1 but maybe higher than 9:1 without causing issues in the tune.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

GTDi89 said:


> So i have 2 head spacers, one measure the 3.4mm(1point drop in compression) the other measures 1.9mm which i'm trying to figure out what that compression drop would be, stock headgasket is approx 1mm. I know BFI sold some SPA with various thickness for different drops but no actual info can be found on the internet now! Does anyone know of any idea how to get this info? Also, contacted C2 about what compression drop they recommend on their software, i would like to run a low compression ration than 10:1 but maybe higher than 9:1 without causing issues in the tune.


 just run the 9:1 and call it a day. you're over thinking this.


----------



## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

yea, my friend ran his c2 software with the smaller spacer and ran fine, i just may run the 9:1 again.


----------



## 2point0jetta (Jul 22, 2009)

Can't wait until I can post in this forum with my 2.0t


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

2point0jetta said:


> Can't wait until I can post in this forum with my 2.0t


well man da fudge up!:laugh:


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> For those of you looking to make power past 6k...the new 114LC TT276 cam is beast...pm me for details. I loved it in my 8vT


this plus PTE 5757E and.... a little meth coming Q...

Per Scott F. Williams...


175 post IC nozzle plus 4x direct port on the way. -no bungs. We'll do that later.
peeeeth...

:laugh::laugh::laugh:eace:


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Pics!!!!!!!!


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

Parts show up tomorrow AJ


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

You want pics?










and video

http://youtu.be/3YazVXDBZoM


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

:bangheadlease replace those DVs...please.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

jettred3 said:


> this plus PTE 5757E and.... a little meth coming Q...
> 
> Per Scott F. Williams...
> 
> ...


so much WIN. you should exceed my power level.


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> so much WIN. you should exceed my power level.


Thats just insane.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> :bangheadlease replace those DVs...please.


why?


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

Daskoupe said:


> why?


why two? curious...


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

After having a single forge 007 piston get stuck and ruining a 750 dollar garrett I decided to go twin 710n. They work awesome, gives 48mm of relief valve size(zero surge on 24psi), and If one fails I have a back up. :thumbup:


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

Makes sense to me, but I have never built a turbo car before and had one fail, this shall be my first.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> why?


cause they dont seal too well after 20psi. Prone to failure. I dont know how many i went thru but after a while enough is enough!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

jettred3 said:


> Thats just insane.


dunno what you have for an exhaust manifold (that will hurt u) but still your compressor is 3mm larger and a more efficient design. Hope you're running bigger than 630cc injectors. I see 450whp in your future easy. Who's tuning it?


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

This air to water manifold thing is a pretty awesome example of vw kid nonsense performance.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> cause they dont seal too well after 20psi. Prone to failure. I dont know how many i went thru but after a while enough is enough!


mine have been fine dude. Maybe cause I have two?


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

root beer said:


> This air to water manifold thing is a pretty awesome example of vw kid nonsense performance.


what the heck is"vw kid nonsense performance", My design will make good power, super low IAT's, and very quick spool with minimal lag.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

jettred3 said:


>


I'm definitely interested to see where this thing goes......Now for the real question. How big is the heat exchanger and if so will it have it's own fan?


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

Fan yes, heat exchanger will be kept small at first to keep costs down, as we are going into fall and Winter on the east cost and air temps low. plus I have direct port water meth injection and another nozzle post throttle body.



















Just to get up and running. Then I will do logs and figure out the best sizing, too big is not an advantage.


----------



## fwdisbestwd (Dec 16, 2011)

jettred3 said:


> what the heck is"vw kid nonsense performance", My design will make good power, super low IAT's, and very quick spool with minimal lag.


 Can't wait to see your dino numbers, so that you can prove this "kid" wrong


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

AJmustDIE said:


> Pics!!!!!!!!




















































































One of the first sets of nozzles ready for testing.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Oh damn.....that's gonna be sick. Well done sir.


----------



## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Interested to see how that intake manifold works.


----------



## soolow (Jan 28, 2010)




----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

So when are you gonna contact me and get rid of all that tubing?


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

soolow said:


>


Gorgeous Cabby.


----------



## soolow (Jan 28, 2010)

Filthydubber said:


> So when are you gonna contact me and get rid of all that tubing?


We'll talk soon, either doing a sri or a mk4 upper/lower so I can run the cover


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Nothing really changed
pic of engine

C2 stage 2, 4 bar fpr,meth, 22psi

Not bad for a daily with AC lol



















*video*
:beer::beer::beer:
http://youtu.be/N2PsTS_fEAk


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> Nothing really changed
> pic of engine
> 
> :beer::beer::beer:
> http://youtu.be/N2PsTS_fEAk


tighten up that 60ft and have an 11sec daily  Good run!


----------



## DPecnik (Oct 24, 2011)

*woflsburg*

I'm buileding a 98 woflsburg turbo on stock internals diesel tranny, battery moved to the trunk via bmw cables, volvo oil cooler and sds standalone system will try to get some pics up its almost done just getting cold to build on a driveway


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

more ic:


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

I guess I didnt post mine 

Trying to tuck in the bay a bit more than before. 

Before: 









Now: 









Custom LRI, all the piping and intercooler done by me. 


























Just waiting on a few pieces of stainless to finish up the dv piping and lower pipe. 

No more tiny IC in the front like this picture. 










Thats more like it. 









dynos!!


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Looks really good mane. I like the piping alot. 

When will you go drag racing.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

Hopefully soon. Id like to get some tires for my borbets before I go, because I doubt my nankang 165/45/16 bicycle tires will do well. 

So probably summer time.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Filthydubber said:


> Hopefully soon. Id like to get some tires for my borbets before I go, because I doubt my nankang 165/45/16 bicycle tires will do well.
> 
> So probably summer time.


 what u NEED is more cam!!


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> what u NEED is more cam!!


 Going ABF soon Quintin.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

http://c-techperformance.com/cnc-head-porting/vw-aba-2-0-2/ 

New motor is getting to me saturday. 
I've decided on staying 8v since for the price of build stock port 16v I can have a big valve CNC ported 8v head. Which we all know out flows a stock port 16vopcorn:


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

That is nice, If I didn't get a full 16v motor for free, I would consider a CNC'ed 8v head. 

What did you do for your IM shaft?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

currently stock. But I will do the LW one in the new motor. 

I got plans to make this new one see 400whp 


Anyone running Non rifle drilled rods? I have heard that forge piston make a little noise when cold. The rifle drilling should help with that right? 

Heres good stuff that will go in 

IE rods 400.00 + 100 for rifle drilling 
wiseco 9.1's 520.00 
Calico rod bearings 160.00 
IE big valves(+ 2) 120.00 
7mm stems 65.00 
CC port 500.00


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

So I am FINALLY getting all the pieces together to go ABA turbo in my 92 Corrado. After a 10 month wait my Borg Warner EFR 6258 showed up at the end of September and I started getting everything else I need. The car is my DD so I won't be going totally crazy with it but....... 

And here's the plan/parts list: 

To start I'm just going to hang the EFR on a SPA 8v manifold (well actually it's going to take some minor fab work just to do that) and run it through either a G60 or Mk3 TDI sidemount I/C into the stock 97 ABA in the car at the preset boost level (10-12 psi) 

Eventually I'll be going with a built OBD1 block (Wiseco pistons and Scat rods) and big valve OBD1 head, TT268 cam and adjustable sprocket, home built SRI, Deka 60 # injectors, and a small AWIC in addition to the sidemount. Then the boost goes up! 

I'll start throwing some pics up in the next few days, I just started doing preliminary test fitting mock ups.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Oh and BTW the EFR cost MORE than the car did LOL


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

*FV-QR*

oh yes love the EFRs...lemme know if you need anything. :beer:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Q I want one of those weld together manifold kits you were selling


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

Daskoupe, let me know if you want a LW one, I have a spare one I made sitting around in need of a home.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

pm a number lol


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So I told the wifey I bought another engine

her response: Baby why? Isnt a 12.2 fast enough
My answer: I just want to go 11's
She said: ugh then you will say you just want 10's
me: nah.... 11's are fast enough


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

You have a cool ass wifey, mine would just think I was stupid and get mad at me because I didn't buy her diamonds instead.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Filthydubber said:


> You have a cool ass wifey, mine would just think I was stupid and get mad at me because I didn't buy her diamonds instead.


I bought my diamonds for the year already:laugh:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

daskoupe what are you going to run for tuning, the c2 chip will not handle your power goals, yourmost likely at the peak of it right now. 

also what turbo are you going to upgrade to. 


this is the main reason im staying with my set up for now, it just snowballs into a huge build, I have a c&c ported,3+ over size valved, solid lift head, just have to come up with cash for lugtronics, bb 6262 turbo, and fueling to use it all. hoping it will be next year when I can get it all together


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

who did your c&c?

I'll stay C2 all this year and go lugtronic next year.
I'll finally upgrade my older meth pump and run the bigger nozzle. Should cover me for another 30 or so hp

Turbo wise I'm thinking 6262 also. But I might go with a gtx series something


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

When I spoke with Chris @ C2 about this, he said the ECU could adapt somewhat to the water meth being used for "supplemental fueling"...


----------



## Conejo Negro (Apr 3, 2007)

My setup will be up and running soon :


Custom SRI
Garret T3 Super60 turbo
TT 270 cam
Rebuilt and mildly ported head
2.5in turbo back exhaust
Megasquirt ECU
bmw 340 injectors

Hoping for a solid 240whp


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well if I get idea working I have we might not have to worry about other chips


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Whats new on the Aba turbo thread? I had to put a new battery in mine


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

new axles and front wheel bearings, in mine, also routed ecu into car so I can run the the emulator and my lap top to start seeing what I can do tuning wise, 


also ordered my wot box and led for shift light,no lift shift, and 2 step set up


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yeah I really want a WOT box...But no support for obd1 and I'm just going wait till I go lugtronics


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> yeah I really want a WOT box...But no support for obd1 and I'm just going wait till I go lugtronics


That reminds me, there's a hispanic dude that lives down the hill from my house and he's always running his civic EK hatch up and down the street (residential neighborhood) and being annoying as all hell. Apparently he thinks his fartcan attracts boobs or something. My house is at the corner of a double cul de sac. I ended up calling the cops on him once, but when that wasn't enough I pulled up one of my customers' VRT that I installed a wotbox for and 2 stepped it right in front of his house, leaving his yard covered in black smoke. Needless to say he's been more mild mannered since then. :laugh:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

i have been told the wot box will work on a aba, have seen a few installed also, im getting one and trying it, im obd1 so we will see, 


lugtronics is the ticket i cant wait to drop that money.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I was gonna say, I have one on my all motor jetta, but that's an obd2 car.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I will happily be joining to 2.0t club shortly as I'm picking up a kinetics stage 2 kit. I have a few questions though.... at what point is a 4bar for needed? Am I correct that an upgraded fuel pump such as walbro won't be needed until about 14-15 psi? And lastly, at what point is it recommended to run a head spacer?Thanks guys


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

14psi for head spacer
18psi for walbro

22psi for 4 bar


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Awesome, so none of above will be needed to run 10-12 psi. Thanks. Can't wait to throw the stage 2 kit on. Anyone here have experience running a precision t3/t4 50 trim?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I'm sure this has been answered somewhere, sorry I'm a noob to fi. But when running a head spacer, should I use factory head bolts or buy arp head studs? And do you use a head gasket as well? Thanks again


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yes thats a common turbo for these motors. Expect full boost around 4500rpm. 

Also Just get two factory metal head gaskets and ARP head studs. We all do this it works fine. Just make sure you coat the headgaskets with the copper headgasket spray stuff.:thumbup:


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

To daskoupe, if I'm running 10-12 psi and double stack the gaskets is it ok/safe to use factory head bolts being I have a new set or is that asking for disaster? And should I just sell them to buy arp?


----------



## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

roknroko16v said:


> To daskoupe, if I'm running 10-12 psi and double stack the gaskets is it ok/safe to use factory head bolts being I have a new set or is that asking for disaster? And should I just sell them to buy arp?


Always always always headstuds when running boost. You'll never have to buy new ones when you pull the head again. ( you will pull the head again)


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> I'm sure this has been answered somewhere, sorry I'm a noob to fi. But when running a head spacer, should I use factory head bolts or buy arp head studs? And do you use a head gasket as well? Thanks again





roknroko16v said:


> To daskoupe, if I'm running 10-12 psi and double stack the gaskets is it ok/safe to use factory head bolts being I have a new set or is that asking for disaster? And should I just sell them to buy arp?


 As far as the head gasket/spacer is concerned, you can either double stack gaskets (proven up to 350whp reliably), or a head spacer (proven to around 400whp IIRC). Honestly with the head bolts vs. ARP studs it's your call entirely. Personally I would *recommend* head studs if you're over 300whp because it's better to under-budget and over-build than to have to build again (situation depending of course: Tim Mullen was running stock blocks with only ARP rod bolts for a long time and running mid 9s in the quarter with his VRT. For his setup, it was more worth it to blow up a stock motor than to spend the money on fancy internals, especially when he can get a used motor for a couple hundred bucks). Tim has since thrown some rods and pistons in and now is running 9.3....



SirSpectre said:


> Always always always headstuds when running boost. You'll never have to buy new ones when you pull the head again. ( you will pull the head again)


 I wouldn't say never.....ARPs stretch over numerous torque cycles just like Raceware or any other performance bolt/stud.....just not nearly as much. Also, with very high performance builds any time the "head lifts", that's a good sign of bolt/stud stretch. I went through 3 blocks and 5 heads total throughout my old turbo jetta build (over numerous years mind you), and the head studs that came out of that setup look just like a factory head bolt upon removal.

Studs are a good idea though....You pay for peace of mind with stuff like this, and it never hurts. :beer:


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I'm going to be running a stage 2 kinetics kit which is rated at 7-9 psi and don't plan to turn it higher anytime soon. So from my understanding I should be ok with just factory head bolts and compression correct? I have a mild p&p cylinder head that I rebuilt as well that will be going on as well. I also plan to run either stage 2 or stage 3 clutch, has anyone had any experience with southbend clutches?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

southbend:thumbup:

8-9 psi stock head bolts:thumbup:

but if your pulling the head go head studs. You will get tired of 10psi in a week:laugh:


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

I ran stock head bolts at 11psi and my head was lifting. Switched to the ARP studs and haven't had a problem since. 

I'm sure if I used new stock head studs they would have been ok though. 

Wouldn't dream of them working at 19psi though.


----------



## swiftlocc (Apr 21, 2011)

aeg head
aeg pistons 
aba obd2 block
aba obd1 crank/rods
kkk k24 turbo


----------



## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

:thumbup: did you re-bush the aba rods to fit the aeg pistons?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

what are you guys getting for mpg?
I am right at 19 mpg lol


----------



## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

*Turbo ABA MPG*



> Daskoupe
> 
> what are you guys getting for mpg?
> I am right at 19 mpg lol


If I baby it around town and keep the speedo below 60 on the highway, I can get 25mpg. I think my best ever since turbocharging (6 years ago) is 27mpg. I want to get 30mpg+ like some of these other people. I think maybe your mpg is so low is because your foot weighs a ton Daskoupe . 12.2 down the track is faster than I could dream of in my mk3.:thumbup:


----------



## swiftlocc (Apr 21, 2011)

groundupjetta said:


> :thumbup: did you re-bush the aba rods to fit the aeg pistons?


I'm not sure I was told this when i bought the engine from my friend who new nothing about it


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

The Rice Cooker said:


> If I baby it around town and keep the speedo below 60 on the highway, I can get 25mpg. I think my best ever since turbocharging (6 years ago) is 27mpg. I want to get 30mpg+ like some of these other people. I think maybe your mpg is so low is because your foot weighs a ton Daskoupe . 12.2 down the track is faster than I could dream of in my mk3.:thumbup:


haha
I got the CCM gears and a TDI fifth its alittle tall for city driving so its gutless city driving. Just drinks the fuel up to speed lol.

Highway it gets about 26 at 80:thumbup:


----------



## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> haha
> I got the CCM gears and a TDI fifth its alittle tall for city driving so its gutless city driving. Just drinks the fuel up to speed lol.
> 
> Highway it gets about 26 at 80:thumbup:


 I'm jealous. I have the Passat O2A gears. Good around town, but it makes the car feel slow when you want to go fast.:thumbdown: As soon as I'm into boost its time to shift. Don't even get me started about the highway... I think I want to try out the G60 gears.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

On my trip to OCMD last year I averaged 32mpg when I was just cruising. Mk3 VR6 R&P and tdi 5th gear.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

I took mine out of the garage the other day. Washed it, then put it back...:wave:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

2pt. slo said:


> I took mine out of the garage the other day. Washed it, then put it back...:wave:


When did you move to NC?!? I'm still interested, and am trying to work out selling a couple of mine to make room for yours.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So I've determined the kinetics turbo kit I bought has a 11.6 psi spring so I'm gonna run arpvstuds like you all recommend as well as double stack gaskets, I know to put the copper spray on but do I wet to do anything else like remove the rivet or anything? Thanks


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> So I've determined the kinetics turbo kit I bought has a 11.6 psi spring so I'm gonna run arpvstuds like you all recommend as well as double stack gaskets, I know to put the copper spray on but do I wet to do anything else like remove the rivet or anything? Thanks


You don't need to remove the rivets....just spray em (and let them dry), stack em, and go.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

sorry this was my cruising speed were 26-28 mpg was achieved
According to the wideband/boost gauge this was the sweet spot. Could stay at 18-15 inches of vacuum and not move from 14.7 on the wideband 
lol


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So how is everyone regulating boost psi? Are you using manual boost controller? Electronic? Or just by the waste gatespring pressure?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

manual


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Pros and cons of running mbc and just waste gate psi?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> Pros and cons of running mbc and just waste gate psi?


Pretty much with MBCs or running off the waste gate makes you very prone to erratic boost behavior, boost creep, and boost spikes. If you're not worried about a torque or boost spikes, then it's fine. Personally I don't trust MBCs a bit, and definitely wouldn't recommend it for people pushing any envelopes on stock rod bolts (or rods for that matter). It's a dinosaur design and unless the ball is lubricated you can run one psi one day and another psi on another day.

I'm a big fan of the Turbosmart Eboost (more the original than the eboost2). It allows you to tune out boost creep, spikes, and run 3 different boost levels at the push of a button. On my old ABA turbo setup I was able to tune my spike down to a .3 psi variance from my desired boost level. I've never seen anything beat that.....But most brand name boost controllers are by far good enough.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> So how is everyone regulating boost psi? Are you using manual boost controller? Electronic? Or just by the waste gatespring pressure?


I'll be starting out with just waste gate pressure but my EFR has a boost control solenoid built onto it and Megasquirt does boost control so eventually I'll have full electronic control.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> sorry this was my cruising speed were 26-28 mpg was achieved
> According to the wideband/boost gauge this was the sweet spot. Could stay at 18-15 inches of vacuum and not move from 14.7 on the wideband
> lol


If you can tune what you've got, you'll find that leaner (15.2-16.0) AFRs will give you even better economy at highway cruise.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

PBWB said:


> When did you move to NC?!? I'm still interested, and am trying to work out selling a couple of mine to make room for yours.


About 3 months ago, Microsoft moved me down here for work. Roads are horrible...

Its calling your name 


IMG_9979 by clordj12, on Flickr


----------



## thebusta120 (Jun 14, 2010)

soolow said:


>


Saw this car a couple weeks ago parked outside the antique shop lol I hope you don't mind that I snapped a couple pics of the bay with my phone. Love the car :laugh:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

2pt. slo said:


> About 3 months ago, Microsoft moved me down here for work. Roads are horrible...
> 
> Its calling your name
> 
> ...


You're such a f*cker.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

PBWB said:


> You're such a f*cker.


those wires worth the money?


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> those wires worth the money?


I have had no issues with them and like the way they look. I bought them when I was having spark issues. It ended up just being the coilpack. Looking back I never had issues with the oem wires either since the coilpack was the problem. That probably didnt answer your question though


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I think I'm going hook up a wot box on my car . Read the instruction and it should work on an obd1 car......


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> I think I'm going hook up a wot box on my car . Read the instruction and it should work on an obd1 car......


really?! I'm running an abaT in a mk2 using obd1 and C2 software, but have been wanting to get Lugtronics some day. If I can use a WOT box that would be good enough!!

Which WOT box will work? This one says it will work on mk3 gti 2.0...
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

that's the one, mine is on its way to me as we type. 


should work great looking at the directions, also I will be putting the led shift light in with it. 

just a little led on the steering column so I don't have to concentrate on the tach as much.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> that's the one, mine is on its way to me as we type.
> 
> 
> should work great looking at the directions, also I will be putting the led shift light in with it.
> ...


obd1?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

yes obd1


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

check out there website the module will support a adjustable shift light set up that just uses the module for input.


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

rabbitchaser said:


> check out there website the module will support a adjustable shift light set up that just uses the module for input.


I looked through the instructions and they say 2.0's from 96 up....so that makes me think obd2. I havent looked at in enough, but are the hook ups on odb1 similar enough? I would have to add a clutch switch tho...lol


----------



## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

Time for some quick math

12.2X second Daskoupe + wotbox = 11.XX second timeslips

winning 


I'm curious if a wotbox affects the clutch more or less than lifting and then shifting. Whoever has one installed could you please chime in. TIA


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

ignition system and wiring is the same obd1 to 2, I will be adding a clutch switch to as im running a o2j trans and pedal cluster, 

the no lift shift mainly keeps your foot on the gas pedal so you never go into vacuum and have boost instantly after shifting, there is some more stain on the clutch as when its released your all ready at peak torque and hp, but its much nicer to the trans in the since the synchros mesh a lot easier since rpm drop less than if you let up shifted then got back on the throttle.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

im hoping to be right there with dascoupe this year we are running almost the same set up but my car is fully stripped and weighs in at 2000 pounds with me in it.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

my night.


----------



## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> im hoping to be right there with dascoupe this year we are running almost the same set up but my car is fully stripped and weighs in at 2000 pounds with me in it.


Thanks for that info on the wotbox. I much rather buy a new clutch than a new (used) transmission. 2000 lbs is agreeably stripped. Running slicks?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

yep o2j trans, welded diff, ccm gearing, and 24.5 in slicks


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Full interior,AC and a 12.2 i was so happy!

I am hoping the wot box with get me an 11.XX

The more and more I watch the 12.2 video I take so long on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts thats where I'll make the time up:thumbup:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

ya your car defently has a 11 second run in it, im still very much learning my car with the new gearing and taller slicks, and then throw the wot box in I will be all new this season, 

the good thing is local track just started a vw,audi, Porsche drag series with six dates, over six months along with I am 30min from two strips that are open Friday and Saturday nights I should have it figured out by the end of the year.


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

rabbitchaser said:


> yep o2j trans, welded diff, ccm gearing, and 24.5 in slicks


The CCM gearing has a loooong third gear. Is that good for the strip? I hate it on the track. I want to change third to a 1.360 or 1.345 from anther 02A


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I love the CCM 3rd. It does 100 at redline!

as seen here




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YazVXDBZoM&feature=share&list=UUJvuN127UoltQi9l3mLkriQ


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Yes, that is true! I have a CCM on my mk3 vr (stock tranny) and I find that on corners that I am powering out of, when I shift to third, it bogs it down a bit. I know this is apples to oranges here, but I was just curious what you thought


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

honestly I would like a much longer gear set. Like tdi Fd and gears.

like 45 in first 80 second 120 third 150 fourth 

But for my power level I love it. Its much to tall for auto cross lol. But the car spins under 60 anyways


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> those wires worth the money?


 IIRC, these are ok but Magnecor wires have a larger conductor.


The Rice Cooker said:


> I'm curious if a wotbox affects the clutch more or less than lifting and then shifting. Whoever has one installed could you please chime in. TIA


 It does help with transitioning gears and sparing the clutch, but it's not a notable difference. I have had one on my aba for about a year now. Fireballs everywhere!


rabbitchaser said:


> ignition system and wiring is the same obd1 to 2, I will be adding a clutch switch to as im running a o2j trans and pedal cluster,
> 
> the no lift shift mainly keeps your foot on the gas pedal so you never go into vacuum and have boost instantly after shifting, there is some more stain on the clutch as when its released your all ready at peak torque and hp, but its much nicer to the trans in the since the synchros mesh a lot easier since rpm drop less than if you let up shifted then got back on the throttle.


 One thing with a wotbox is that you have to have a TPS signal, and the obd2 cars all have a backward TPS signal. Just something to note....


rabbitchaser said:


> yep o2j trans, welded diff, ccm gearing, and 24.5 in slicks


 You won't need 24.5" slicks until around 350-400whp, even in a mk2.


mk21.8Tjetta said:


> The CCM gearing has a loooong third gear. Is that good for the strip? I hate it on the track. I want to change third to a 1.360 or 1.345 from anther 02A


I've went shorter and never looked back with my all motor VR car. On a turbo setup it's negligible. It's more important to focus on closer ratios between all the gears, not just one.


Daskoupe said:


> honestly I would like a much longer gear set. Like tdi Fd and gears.
> 
> like 45 in first 80 second 120 third 150 fourth
> 
> But for my power level I love it. Its much to tall for auto cross lol. But the car spins under 60 anyways


Sounds like you want an AP tuning 1-4 gear set.....If you're running smaller tires then you would DEFINITELY want a taller R&P. As you said, it's not worth messing with at your current power level.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I have a set of 23 in slicks to, I got the 24.5 to grow into for now, I will run both sets this next year.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> I have a set of 23 in slicks to, I got the 24.5 to grow into for now, I will run both sets this next year.


What brand are the 23s? I've only ever heard of 22s.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

im not sure i will look tonight 23/9r15s


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

there gonna be m and hs' I have the same pair


----------



## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

PBWB said:


> I've went shorter and never looked back with my all motor VR car. On a turbo setup it's negligible. It's more important to focus on closer ratios between all the gears, not just one..


Ya I mapped it out and with a 1.36 third it is a very nicely spaced ratio, similar to the old 020 close ratio trannies. I would have to change the R&P to make it shorter of course, but I really like the gearing in it, just the gap from 2nd to 3rd pisses me off


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

driving home on my fun road

http://youtu.be/cCeDBIs_jos


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> driving home on my fun road
> 
> http://youtu.be/cCeDBIs_jos


that thing gets it. nice sir :thumbup:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> driving home on my fun road
> 
> http://youtu.be/cCeDBIs_jos


What size are your street tires?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

195/50/15's

The speed is accurate.....not accord to a highway speeding sign I might pass in the triple digits


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 195/50/15's
> 
> The speed is accurate.....not accord to a highway speeding sign I might pass in the triple digits


LOL You read my mind.


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

I'm one step closer to joining the club, TT 276 .114 Widelobe Cam, IE Valve Stem Seals, Autotech HD Springs, AEG Lifters, and Supertech 7mm Titanium Valve Spring Retainers....Should Rev nicely...
Anyone got an extra cam gear bolt lying around, I lost one..:banghead:eace:




































































































I hope to be finished by the end of the month...PTE 5757E and direct port water meth goodness...


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Love you build great work being done.... but Jesus man i see pictures of your stuff posted everywhere.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

What is everyone uses for clutches? Any oil weight recommendation? Turbo going in in about a month, I've always used 15/40 synthetic blend. I currently have 2.25 Techtonics borla exhaust, should I upgrade to 2.5?


----------



## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

> roknroko16v
> What is everyone uses for clutches?


I kept breaking my pressure plate while naturally aspirated or getting stuck in 3rd gear with my O2O transmission. When I was on my 4th transmission and got stuck in 3rd gear again, I decided to go O2A and while I was doing the conversion to O2A I pulled the motor and "put some boost in my car" :facepalm:

You might be able to get away with a spec or a clutchmasters setup for your O2O. I've known 2 people to run them with success.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

roknroko16v said:


> What is everyone uses for clutches? Any oil weight recommendation? Turbo going in in about a month, I've always used 15/40 synthetic blend. I currently have 2.25 Techtonics borla exhaust, should I upgrade to 2.5?


I run 20w50 haha. I have a custom build clutch from bay city clutch(for 02j)

I have a 3.0 exhaust.:thumbup:


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

2.Quick said:


> Love you build great work being done.... but Jesus man i see pictures of your stuff posted everywhere.


My bad, i do go overboard on the pics sometimes


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

jettred3 said:


> My bad, i do go overboard on the pics sometimes


No worries! Just laughed because i poke my nose in almost every section on vortex and ive seen your pictures every where  Though it does seem to be coming along nicely!


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> What is everyone uses for clutches? Any oil weight recommendation? Turbo going in in about a month, I've always used 15/40 synthetic blend. I currently have 2.25 Techtonics borla exhaust, should I upgrade to 2.5?


For 020s I don't recommend anything but ACT. I have a Spec stage 3 clutch I blew into 4 pieces at h20 in 2007 in Ocean City from my old turbo setup. "Supposedly" rated for 440tq (my ass!). I've only heard of 1.8Ts having success with Spec. Never heard of any 020 guys running Spec.

For o2a/o2j setups I would recommend either SouthBend or Clutchmasters.

For oil I ran AMSoil 10w40 synthetic. And you should upgrade to 3" if you want the most out of your turbo setup, even if it's non-intercooled. With any turbo exhaust setup, you pretty much want the biggest you can fit under the car. There is no need for back pressure requirements as the turbine wheel essentially IS the back pressure source, so everything after that should be as free flowing as possible.


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Southbend all the way for 02a.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

I'm running a spec stage 3 clutch right now. My buddy smoked it, so I took it, had it re-padded and have been running it since. No problems so far.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Filthydubber said:


> I'm running a spec stage 3 clutch right now. My buddy smoked it, so I took it, had it re-padded and have been running it since. No problems so far.


Just curious as to what your setup might be....and how hard you push the car when you do....especially gear changing. When mine failed I was giving it plenty of abuse. Pretty much you would have thought I was powershifting. lol

The rivets holding the 2 plates that the springs are contained in is what exploded in mine. I'm sure it is possible that they've switched to better materials by now (as my failure was 5 years ago), but I doubt it....especially from a "price vs capacity claims" margin standpoint.

After it happened I actually got more traction with the clutch pushed in than when it was out. :screwy: I ended up picking up the ONLY VR clutch disc at the venue for $189 and swapping it in at a rented house with hardly any tools. From that year on I've brought damn near the whole toolbox....:laugh:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> that's the one, mine is on its way to me as we type.
> 
> 
> should work great looking at the directions, also I will be putting the led shift light in with it.
> ...


did we ever get this in? wallet is itchy


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Filthydubber said:


> I'm running a spec stage 3 clutch right now. My buddy smoked it, so I took it, had it re-padded and have been running it since. No problems so far.


just give it time.


Spec FTL.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

got it have not had a chance to install it yet. 

been working to much and its to cold here in my garage, should just drive the car over to work and work on it there.


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

PBWB said:


> Just curious as to what your setup might be....and how hard you push the car when you do....especially gear changing. When mine failed I was giving it plenty of abuse. Pretty much you would have thought I was powershifting. lol
> 
> The rivets holding the 2 plates that the springs are contained in is what exploded in mine. I'm sure it is possible that they've switched to better materials by now (as my failure was 5 years ago), but I doubt it....especially from a "price vs capacity claims" margin standpoint.
> 
> After it happened I actually got more traction with the clutch pushed in than when it was out. :screwy: I ended up picking up the ONLY VR clutch disc at the venue for $189 and swapping it in at a rented house with hardly any tools. From that year on I've brought damn near the whole toolbox....:laugh:


My setup is a gt28rs with 440cc injectors, UM stage 2 software, 19psi, made 290whp and 305wtq on a mustang dyno. 

I built a corrado g60 trans, put vr6 gears and final drive in, and a tdi 5th. I also have a peloquin limited slip. 

The pressure plate has about 50k miles on it and before it was in my car, it was in a 450whp vrt mk2. And he did not drive it light. 

I dont drive my car light either, granted its only a 300whp monster. So far


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Filthydubber said:


> My setup is a gt28rs with 440cc injectors, UM stage 2 software, 19psi, made 290whp and 305wtq on a mustang dyno.
> 
> I built a corrado g60 trans, put vr6 gears and final drive in, and a tdi 5th. I also have a peloquin limited slip.
> 
> ...


Those are some good numbers for that boost level and turbo. What type intake and exhaust mani are you packin?

And for reference when I say "I was giving it a lot of abuse", I pretty much mean beating the piss out of it. I've even shredded 2nd gear in the VR when it was damn near stock.....And that gear is part of the shaft! :laugh: My failures are ALL catostrophic. lol


----------



## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

PBWB said:


> Those are some good numbers for that boost level and turbo. What type intake and exhaust mani are you packin?
> 
> And for reference when I say "I was giving it a lot of abuse", I pretty much mean beating the piss out of it. I've even shredded 2nd gear in the VR when it was damn near stock.....And that gear is part of the shaft! :laugh: My failures are ALL catostrophic. lol


 When I dynoed the car, I was just using a stock mk4 intake manifold. Since then I've made a long runner tubular manifold. So in the spring I will probably re-dyno it. It feels quicker, as I actually engineered this manifold to have peak torque in a specific rpm and increased plenum volume for better throttle response and less lag. 

The exhaust is a 3in turbo back stainless piping with 1 vibrant muffler. Its all custom.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

NICE! :thumbup:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Filthydubber said:


> When I dynoed the car, I was just using a stock mk4 intake manifold. Since then I've made a long runner tubular manifold. So in the spring I will probably re-dyno it. It feels quicker, as I actually engineered this manifold to have peak torque in a specific rpm and increased plenum volume for better throttle response and less lag.
> 
> The exhaust is a 3in turbo back stainless piping with 1 vibrant muffler. Its all custom.





Prof315 said:


> NICE! :thumbup:


 Yea, DEFINITELY above average numbers for what was into the setup. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

I swear I'm starting to wonder if my turbo build will ever get done.:banghead: Every time things move forward I run into some kind of snag. I picked up a nice home built SRI and of course since it was built for a MK3 it doesn't quite fit in my Corrado's engine bay! At least I have access to a TIG.


----------



## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Manifold is getting fixed, and the pipes have been repainted, I will take some pics.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

damn stress cracks like woah


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

*FV-QR*

welds were too hot....


----------



## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

This happens from not supporting the manifold as well. Brace your manifolds....

Edit: I want to add, having your start and stop point at the top of the runners is a bad idea too. Solidification cracks in an aluminum weld are very common. Having the stop point at the highest point of load on the flange will spread those cracks out. FYI to diy-ers

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

When mine cracked like that it was because I tightened all the lower bolts first and then the top.:banghead: SRI are great, but some times installing them in the car can be a real PITA. and once I sneaked my arm under, I just wanted to get em tight......bad move! Also, make sure the head of the bolts are flat, not angled from the weld. Some sanding/grinding may be needed to ensure the bolt heads are flat, and not resting on the weld.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This happens from not supporting the manifold as well. Brace your manifolds....
> 
> Edit: I want to add, having your start and stop point at the top of the runners is a bad idea too. Solidification cracks in an aluminum weld are very common. Having the stop point at the highest point of load on the flange will spread those cracks out. FYI to diy-ers
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


 well put


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> welds were too hot....


 That was my initial thought as well. 


Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This happens from not supporting the manifold as well. Brace your manifolds....
> 
> Edit: I want to add, having your start and stop point at the top of the runners is a bad idea too. Solidification cracks in an aluminum weld are very common. Having the stop point at the highest point of load on the flange will spread those cracks out. FYI to diy-ers
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


 Learn something new every day. :beer:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> welds were too hot....


 to me that is the piece was not hot enough when welded. But give the age Its more stress then anything else.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> to me that is the piece was not hot enough when welded. But give the age Its more stress then anything else.


 no if the material was not hot enough you'd see the weld "foot" tend to curl away from the material. You can tell it was too hot based on the concave/flat look of the weld bead that and too much heat weakens the surrounding HAZ area.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

To me it looks like it wasn't hot enough and they traveled too slow causing the aluminum to cook 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)




----------



## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Is that Q's old car?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Yes, sold it to my "boss" LOL 

And it shouldnt be in this thread cause it's NOT AN ABA


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

jettred3 said:


>


 All of that and still worm gear clamps!?!?!?:banghead: Scott, fix yourself, stat.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I'm going air to water on my next motor


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I would suggest that daskoupe, way fast spool, stays nice and cool with a nice ice tank and some dry ice, im running a small radiator right now and it still stays nice and cold on hot days with the fan running on it.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> I would suggest that daskoupe, way fast spool, stays nice and cool with a nice ice tank and some dry ice, im running a small radiator right now and it still stays nice and cold on hot days with the fan running on it.


 Yeah I want to do a bunch of stuff differently and Air water fits the bill. Also 
GO install that two step!


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## johnt2k7 (Jan 20, 2013)

EDIT : SRY 

found my answers here The super slappy attack rabbit of what a stock bottom end ABA Turbo can do with proper fueling and correct engine management (not just dropping a chip in and letting it ride:screwy 

now does anyone know the true Compression Ratio of a ABA is ??? 



Posted Via Tapatalk Pro - HTC Rezound


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

johnt2k7 said:


> EDIT : now does anyone know the true Compression Ratio of a ABA is ???
> 
> 
> 
> Posted Via Tapatalk Pro - HTC Rezound


 Yeah, it depends on the year (and what it was originally in). Most ODB1 ABAs are 9.2-9.4 to 1 with virgin unmolested parts. OBD2 ABAs can range from 9.2 to 9.6 to 1 most of the 9.6 to 1 motors being in mk3 and mk3.5 cabriolets.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

working on it.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> what are you guys getting for mpg?
> I am right at 19 mpg lol


 Straight up cruising highway, I've gotten average 37mpg (over 240miles)... no joke. 
Normally average is like 28-30mpg over 15 miles of driving one way to and from work over 330 miles before I fill up.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

GTijoejoe said:


> Straight up cruising highway, I've gotten average 37mpg (over 240miles)... no joke.
> Normally average is like 28-30mpg over 15 miles of driving one way to and from work over 330 miles before I fill up.


 i was gettin 30~32mpg hwy of course


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## MammothsKum3 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Head gasket question*

completely off the topic of mpg but here is my question: 

I was recently given a BahnBrenner Motorsports CR lowering headgasket with a built head I bought. My question is can I reuse this headgasket if I use that Permatex copper spray or should I buy a new one? it has about 5k miles on it. 

TIA :beer:


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

MammothsKum3 said:


> completely off the topic of mpg but here is my question:
> 
> I was recently given a BahnBrenner Motorsports CR lowering headgasket with a built head I bought. My question is can I reuse this headgasket if I use that Permatex copper spray or should I buy a new one? it has about 5k miles on it.
> 
> TIA :beer:


 If it was my car, I'd buy a new oem headgasket, split it and replace the gasket parts on the spacer.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Filthydubber said:


> If it was my car, I'd buy a new oem headgasket, split it and replace the gasket parts on the spacer.


 Exactly, just remove the outer 2 layers from the HG spacer, and install the outside layers from a victor reinz gasket onto the HG spacer. Copper spray and you're good to go. You'll need a couple pop rivets or expandable pins to keep all portions of the spacer aligned prior to installation, otherwise you risk blocking oil pressure galleys.


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## MammothsKum3 (Oct 27, 2009)

PBWB said:


> Exactly, just remove the outer 2 layers from the HG spacer, and install the outside layers from a victor reinz gasket onto the HG spacer. Copper spray and you're good to go. You'll need a couple pop rivets or expandable pins to keep all portions of the spacer aligned prior to installation, otherwise you risk blocking oil pressure galleys.


 is there such thing as a DIY on this? where would I get these rivets? are they anything special? I didn't even know I could do this!! haha


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> All of that and still worm gear clamps!?!?!?:banghead: Scott, fix yourself, stat.


 A properly rolled bead with worm clamps works just fine.


----------



## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> F
> For o2a/o2j setups I would recommend either SouthBend or Clutchmasters.


 I use an ACT for my O2a and it has been great for the last four years.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> welds were too hot....


 That is fatigue, something is putting pressure on the manifold when the engine rocks in the mounts. Check your intercooler pipes and see where they are hitting.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> A properly rolled bead with worm clamps works just fine.


 That's actually true


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## MammothsKum3 (Oct 27, 2009)

I'm so sick of searching for an answer that is probably right in front of my face so I'm just going to ask. 

I have a garrett T3; What size oil feed line do I need if I'm going to run it from my oil cooler to my turbo? is it -3an or -4an? and how many inches should I buy? 

TIA 
sorry for the dumb question


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

3an or 4an works. I use a .060" restrictor on journal bearing turbos. I want to say it's a 28" hose, but I don't remember exactly. Oil cooler isn't necessary, but always recommended.


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## MammothsKum3 (Oct 27, 2009)

it'll be coming directly off of the oem oil cooler that is already on the car. I need to know what size of fitting threads into the stock oil cooler


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

1/8 inch npt. All vw's are tapped that(oil pressure,oil temp, blanks)


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## MammothsKum3 (Oct 27, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> 1/8 inch npt. All vw's are tapped that(oil pressure,oil temp, blanks)


 okay thank you. So i'll run a -3an oil line with 1/8"npt fittings. awesome! thanks you


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

MammothsKum3 said:


> okay thank you. So i'll run a -3an oil line with 1/8"npt fittings. awesome! thanks you


 Thats the perfect size


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

flange is threaded M10x1, would the npt work, sure, with some tape. then again, I wouldn't chase a glow plug thread with a npt tap, I'd use a 10x1.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Is there a wot box on an obd1 car yet?


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> So I told the wifey I bought another engine
> 
> her response: Baby why? Isnt a 12.2 fast enough
> My answer: I just want to go 11's
> ...


That is so funny, My wife and I had that exact same conversation.

Here is my ABA 16V Turbo setup.

















96 ABA block, 16V head, TT springs, TT268 cams, 1000cc inj, 034efi 1C. 8.5:1 JE's
Made 407WHP on pump 92octane @24psi. 458WHP @ 28psi pump 92octane. conseritive timing.
Going alittle more argessive with 101 unleaded this year.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I need to get on getting this wot box in my car.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

TIGninja said:


> A properly rolled bead with worm clamps works just fine.


 Sure, a new, good quality clamp will, but with as many times as people with these setups actually remove and reinstall these clamps (for maintenance or whatever reason), it's worth the peace of mind to pay a couple bucks and get more legit stuff. Hell I blew charge pipes at 260whp before....It's just not worth having to pull over on the side of the road and waste your time if/when it happens.....which is why I recommend t-bolt clamps. Sure they can fail as well, but you have a much better chance of a good worm gear clamp failing than you do a cheap t-bolt clamp. opcorn:



rabbitchaser said:


> I need to get on getting this wot box in my car.


Yes you do, you'll 2-step everywhere you go once it's in and programmed. It should take just under an hour for a first time install.....so get to it!


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So I've been researching clutches and some of you have said that south bend is a good clutch, just wondering about their ratings because when I talked with them they seemed low. Guy I spoke to there said their stage 2 drag which is a 6 puck disc is only rated at 220-230 ft lb of torque. Transmissibeing used will be a factory mk3 020


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> So I've been researching clutches and some of you have said that south bend is a good clutch, just wondering about their ratings because when I talked with them they seemed low. Guy I spoke to there said their stage 2 drag which is a 6 puck disc is only rated at 220-230 ft lb of torque. Transmissibeing used will be a factory mk3 020


That'll be plenty of clamping force. 220-230 ftlb of torque will likely strip the teeth right off 4th and 5th anyhow.


----------



## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

Just curious ... has anyone made 400hp on an 8v ? if so what were their specs!


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Just wanted to be sure/safe, when I looked at act clutches their stage 1 was rated at 250


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

go big or go home on clutches. You are always going want more power (and you have it at the twist of knob) and dont want to have buy another clutch


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> go big or go home on clutches. You are always going want more power (and you have it at the twist of knob) and dont want to have buy another clutch


I'm sure I will get bored of 11 lbs quick but its my dd so need to try to not blow motor up, too soon haha


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

roknroko16v said:


> I'm sure I will get bored of 11 lbs quick but its my dd so need to try to not blow motor up, too soon haha


you wont blow it and 11 pounds gets old in 1 week.


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

Daskoupe said:


> go big or go home on clutches. You are always going want more power (and you have it at the twist of knob) and dont want to have buy another clutch


I cannot agree with this more. I always believe in overbuilding a setup because power is addictive and we are all junkies.


----------



## aic311 (Jan 28, 2010)

*oil cooler question*

Hello

I have a 1988 Scirocco with a 1998 Jetta 2.0 aba turbo swap. Can anyone recommend a good oil cooler kit that will replace the stock. I just got my car back last month in the cool weather here in Florida so the car is running nice however it may get really hot in the summer time. Thanks for your help


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Filthydubber said:


> I cannot agree with this more. I always believe in overbuilding a setup because power is addictive and we are all junkies.


Certainly for clutches, I can not tell you how pissed you'll be when you have to take it back out :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Depending on money left from tax return after last bits of Turbo set up and clutch will be deciding factor if I go with only 11psi or more, already have fuel pump too


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

If anyone has set of 42lb injectors they want to sell let me know too.Te motor getting abused with boost has about 136k on it too, any words of advice?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

headspacer and head studs. My motor has like 156k on stock bottom end and is nearly in the 11's


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Can finally contribute to this thread.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I see you work for Vw too?:thumbup:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

nice clean shop there, 

I work for vw to but not that nice of a shop, but looks like I will be moving over to the dark side (audi) in the next two weeks, 

im really hoping to have the wot box installed in two weeks at the most.


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> I see you work for Vw too?:thumbup:


Yessir


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

been on the fence about going dark side...im about due for some ring jobs LOL, haven't had any since the avh/aeg run of em.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

you have not had to re ring any of the fsi engines huh, I have had to do two and another one got a engine, when I got the pistons out the cylinder walls were scored, and no honing the new blocks.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> Sure, a new, good quality clamp will, but with as many times as people with these setups actually remove and reinstall these clamps (for maintenance or whatever reason), it's worth the peace of mind to pay a couple bucks and get more legit stuff. Hell I blew charge pipes at 260whp before....It's just not worth having to pull over on the side of the road and waste your time if/when it happens.....which is why I recommend t-bolt clamps. Sure they can fail as well, but you have a much better chance of a good worm gear clamp failing than you do a cheap t-bolt clamp. opcorn:


If your not smart enough to properly use a worm clamp then you have no business under the hood of your car. I have reused my same worm clamps many times and I am running 30+ PSI even in the dead of the MN winter, not s single failure yet.


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

I run worm clamps just to hear the kids complain


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

need some dyno time soon. winter down time sure does stink.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> So I've been researching clutches and some of you have said that south bend is a good clutch, just wondering about their ratings because when I talked with them they seemed low. Guy I spoke to there said their stage 2 drag which is a 6 puck disc is only rated at 220-230 ft lb of torque. Transmissibeing used will be a factory mk3 020


 If you're staying 020, DO NOT GO SOUTH BEND. My all motor ABA car slipped a stage 2 drag 6 puck disk after a good easy break in.....Every time I hit the power band or went to launch at the track, nothing but slippage. Go ACT if you're staying 020, and thank me later. I currently have an ACT 4 puck sprung clutch in the all motor ABA car, and can launch on the street in 2nd gear if I so chose to. Hell, I've even towed a mk3, a few mk4s, and a mk5 uphill AND in reverse with that car.



Daskoupe said:


> go big or go home on clutches. You are always going want more power (and you have it at the twist of knob) and dont want to have buy another clutch


^^^^^THIS. 



roknroko16v said:


> I'm sure I will get bored of 11 lbs quick but its my dd so need to try to not blow motor up, too soon haha


 You could even run a crappy ATP chip, non-intercooled on 11 psi with a GT35R and not blow it up.....you'll be fine dude.


aic311 said:


> Hello
> 
> I have a 1988 Scirocco with a 1998 Jetta 2.0 aba turbo swap. Can anyone recommend a good oil cooler kit that will replace the stock. I just got my car back last month in the cool weather here in Florida so the car is running nice however it may get really hot in the summer time. Thanks for your help


 Ask and ye shall receive: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_12_27



TIGninja said:


> If your not smart enough to properly use a worm clamp then you have no business under the hood of your car. I have reused my same worm clamps many times and I am running 30+ PSI even in the dead of the MN winter, not s single failure yet.


Says Mr. Conspiracy Theorist. That's about as plausible as me saying that if you're not smart enough to build it not to blow up, you shouldn't be in the game. But sh8t happens sometimes, life goes on. I'm glad you haven't had a failure. Golf clap for you sir.



readytosoar said:


> I run worm clamps just to hear the kids complain


 Ummm, great. I very well could be older than you, but more importantly my care factory is all out of stock and has seized production.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Wot box is in process of install on my obd1 abat, I also just orderEd and will have tomorrow a nice we tt 276 114 lobe center turbo cam along with new lifters and springs, also found out I have a bad wire to cylinder 3 injector which I this intermitant will cause a miss fire so I have a new engine side harness and new bulk head connector to wire in and a new radiator o put in 

First race is April 27 and test and tune starts next month So I will be busy


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> Wot box is in process of install on my obd1 abat, I also just orderEd and will have tomorrow a nice we tt 276 114 lobe center turbo cam along with new lifters and springs, also found out I have a bad wire to cylinder 3 injector which I this intermitant will cause a miss fire so I have a new engine side harness and new bulk head connector to wire in and a new radiator o put in
> 
> First race is April 27 and test and tune starts next month So I will be busy


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Looking for input as car is my daily  but I'm redoing exhaust, car will have a hollowed out cat(visual emissions)then short section of 2.5" to stainless resonator and the jump to 3" right away and to a dynomax shorty 3" race muffler then 3" rest of way back, any idea on how obnoxiously loud? Haha, muffler overall length is 6" and shell case is only 3.5" itsbare minimum muffler


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

very, annoyingly loud.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Even with resonator and tiny muffler? Haha, damn it. Where's daskoupe, he's running 3" I think


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

One car I was working on was catless, 2.5" turboback, unresonated, with a straight through muffler. It was embarrassing to drive. A resonator will help a little, but not too terribly much.

Anymore, I'm a huge fan of doing a 3" down pipe with an electronic cut out, and then tying in to the stock exhaust. If you're going to have a big-performance exhaust, it's going to be noisy, so might as well say f-it and run a cutout. At least then you can be civil most of the time.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

roknroko16v said:


> Looking for input as car is my daily  but I'm redoing exhaust, car will have a hollowed out cat(visual emissions)then short section of 2.5" to stainless resonator and the jump to 3" right away and to a dynomax shorty 3" race muffler then 3" rest of way back, any idea on how obnoxiously loud? Haha, muffler overall length is 6" and shell case is only 3.5" itsbare minimum muffler


I dont know man, im running 2.5" turbo back with only an 18" magnaflow resonator and its awesome. Just loud enough for you to know its there when cruising but when the wastegate opens its loud which i like. Heres how it sounds in car with windows open. I will admit though on hard decel there is a bit of drone but thats only from high RPMs


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

In the car is always way quieter than out of the car.

For instance the car I was talking about, unless you were at a drone spot, it was almost quiet in the car. But when it was leaving the shop on a quiet night, you could hear it over a mile away. (verified)

Maybe I'm just getting old.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Very true i guess it depends on if you want it quite for you or others


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Listening to your video I think I'll be fine, the resonator is a stainless 2.5" Techtonics and then shorty muffler, I'll go for it I think. I've heard turbos help to quiet it a little


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## ryanujetta (Jan 27, 2013)

hey daskoupe i dont know if you have already been asked this and answer but by "stock aba" do you literally just mean turbo head spacer and alotta boost? no cam, tuning etc?

any info would be greatly appreciated thank you


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Zeya12 said:


> Just curious ... has anyone made 400hp on an 8v ? if so what were their specs!


Yes, I have and a few other have also.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

ryanujetta said:


> hey daskoupe i dont know if you have already been asked this and answer but by "stock aba" do you literally just mean turbo head spacer and alotta boost? no cam, tuning etc?
> 
> any info would be greatly appreciated thank you


He's got a build thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3764721-My-koupe(version-1-)


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

AT 270 cam. Stock bottom end, stock head port and valves. 
obd 1 C2 stage 2 chip


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> AT 270 cam. Stock bottom end, stock head port and valves.
> obd 1 C2 stage 2 chip



What's your exhaust setup? Doesn't seem too obnoxiously loud in your videos


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

3 inch turbo back one diesel truck silverline muffler


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

> roknroko16v
> 
> Looking for input as car is my daily but I'm redoing exhaust, car will have a hollowed out cat(visual emissions)then short section of 2.5" to stainless resonator and the jump to 3" right away and to a dynomax shorty 3" race muffler then 3" rest of way back, any idea on how obnoxiously loud? Haha, muffler overall length is 6" and shell case is only 3.5" itsbare minimum muffler


I also second the idea of running a cutout. I do not recommend a hollowed out catalytic converter, I lived with it for a couple of years and it was really just too much. I feel you have two options... one is to run a 3 inch downpipe to the cutout (bypassing the exhaust that you already have when the valve opens) or to run a proper full exhaust (3 inch turbo back or even 2.5 inch exhaust). Since you have to pass a visual inspection I am all for you running a cutout. When it is time for making the fun you flip switch and car fun for you.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I run full 3 in with a magnaflow high flow cat and a flow master straight threw circle track muffler and it dumps right in front of the drivers rear tire, my car is stripped and I mean stripped no carpet no panels no sound deadener in the floors and it's not loud at all has a nice low rumble it's hard to hear the car on the start line at the drag strip from the stands, it makes videos very boring


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Just curious if I should drive car lightly after installing the turbo kit, like should I do couple hundred mile break in like with a new motor or clutch?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

you should start out never letting the engine really idle for long, also do low to mid rpm pulls at 40%ish throttle and let it decellerate fully, then do 70~80% throttle pulls and let it decellerate fully. That way you load the rings in both "directions" in as little as 5miles so long as everything is still good, you can do a full throttle pull but not to redline, say 5500 and then let off and let it engine brake again.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> Looking for input as car is my daily  but I'm redoing exhaust, car will have a hollowed out cat(visual emissions)then short section of 2.5" to stainless resonator and the jump to 3" right away and to a dynomax shorty 3" race muffler then 3" rest of way back, any idea on how obnoxiously loud? Haha, muffler overall length is 6" and shell case is only 3.5" itsbare minimum muffler


If you're going to run a hollowed out cat, just buy this: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=320&osCsid=e8434b0df87357131a9b8a22caab9a1b

Going 2.5" then back to 3 is going to be a waste honestly. Just do the whole thing in 3" and add quality magnaflow resonators. I re-did a VRT exhaust recently that was just a 3" straight pipe all the way back to one flow through muffler. Car was annoyingly, attention crying loud. I welded in 3 magnaflow resonators all in-line, and believe it or not every ounce of drone is gone. Sure it added 25 lbs to the car, but where I'm at cops look for a reason to give exhaust tickets (Fairfax County). The car didn't lose any performance, and at WOT it's back to "in your face" loud. 2 step is also just as loud.



roknroko16v said:


> Just curious if I should drive car lightly after installing the turbo kit, like should I do couple hundred mile break in like with a new motor or clutch?


What Q is mentioning is basically the "motoman" break in.....If you didn't replace piston rings, you may disregard. Make sure she's warm and give her hell, otherwise follow this guide:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Down pipe is 2.5" cat is same, first resonator I had laying in garage is also 2.5" then will be 3" straight through muffler and 3" rest of way back over axle and to tail pipe. Rings were not replaced, compression checked and rebuilt cylinder head installed so guess that means let her get to temp and enjoy? Haha. :thumbup:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

A buddy of mine mentioned running an open dump waste gate tube instead of recirculating back in to exhaust, anyone here running open dump? Pros? Cons? 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Pros: easier to make

Cons: Cop magnet due to noise.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Prof315 said:


> Pros: easier to make
> 
> Cons: Cop magnet due to noise.


f*ck Da pOlice haha, on a serious note your statement is extremely true as im coming to find out. Pops on downshift/decel gets unwated attention


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Well I have a kinetics kit so right now it's recirculated into down pipe but thought of making it open dump....hmm

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Run open dump with a muffler. I've seen people use lawnmower mufflers, and small glass packs and I've seen some actual wastegate mufflers built for open dumps, but I can't seem to find them on line anymore.


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## akabigmike (May 2, 2003)

first time stepping in the realm of turbo'n a car..

ive got a obd1 aba swapped into my rabbit..and currently its NA..with some work done to it..

ive come to the conclusion im gonna need a headspacer cause of right now..im sitting at 10.5-1 compression.

just to give ya a general idea of the setup

93-0bd1 aba oil squirter block
IE rods
knife edged crank
APR head studs
wiesco .40over 10.5-1 comp
2mm bigger valve springs with P/P and dual springs

as for the trans its a CHE with a diesel 5th and a quaife in it

im looking to make like 200-225whp with this current setup on a chip tune C2 software until i can step up to big boy management via my neighbor Franz and autronic


i know EBay is frowned apon but ive talked to a few people that have had luck with some of the non chinesse built turbo's. not trying to drop alot of money into the setup so im content with a ebay manifold and turbo

ive already collected a 2.5 atp downpipe...front mount with aba/mk1 piping..vdo boost gauge..wideband and gauge..oil cooler with lines and thermo plate.

looking for c2 stage 2 software..injectors..head spacer..

i know what i typed is a jumbled mess ahaha but any one care to give me a heads up if im going in the right direction?

Q where you b


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## blackkaa (Aug 5, 2002)

akabigmike2 said:


> first time stepping in the realm of turbo'n a car..
> 
> ive got a obd1 aba swapped into my rabbit..and currently its NA..with some work done to it..
> 
> ...


good ish Mike I know it's been awhile but some of the items you are looking for can be found in the new england classified thread on the cheap . I am sure you can have some of your old peeps check stuff out for ya ! That is where my brother has some good luck . I would grab the stuff for my build but I am not ready yet .


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## akabigmike (May 2, 2003)

Thanks!


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## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

Anyone running the tt268/260 cam ? if so how do you like it and hows the idle ?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Zeya12 said:


> Anyone running the tt268/260 cam ? if so how do you like it and hows the idle ?


Fine. A cam that mild will idle smoothly.


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Zeya12 said:


> Anyone running the tt268/260 cam ? if so how do you like it and hows the idle ?


Thats the one I have. I like it...idles fine. I've never had a diff cam to compare to tho... :laugh:


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

Zeya12 said:


> Anyone running the tt268/260 cam ? if so how do you like it and hows the idle ?


I run one, I actually had UM lower the idle so that Id have a bit of a lumpy idle. It sounds badassed IMO


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Hopefully and finally installing kinetics stage 2 this weekend as long as garage is free, so tired of waiting for this. Its only 11psi but still

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

akabigmike2 said:


> first time stepping in the realm of turbo'n a car..
> 
> ive got a obd1 aba swapped into my rabbit..and currently its NA..with some work done to it..
> 
> ...


i have just the turbo for you, it's a 46mm borg warner turbo. should be very quick spooling and for 225whp goal you dont need a head spacer.:beer: A proper intercooler and some watermeth would be quite nice. But all that c2 stuff i can get you. PM me and we'll talk more.


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## akabigmike (May 2, 2003)

Sent ya a pm


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

To anyone who's running double stacked gaskets and c2 chip, I only know if daskoupe, are you running the low compression tune? 

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Fun begins in 5 hours 
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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yes I am


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

im not running it, im running a old version of the c2 obd1 stage 2 set up, afr stays good all the way threw the range, 

i have no complaints about my tune. running double stacked gaskets, t3t4 at 25 psi.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> To anyone who's running double stacked gaskets and c2 chip, I only know if daskoupe, are you running the low compression tune?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


I was on my old turbo car. Never saw a single issue. And C2 didn't have a low compression tune when I was on board....hell they just barely came out with the emissions compliant version when my car saw it's end. :laugh:

These days I'd go United Motorsports over C2. Ever since Jeff left C2, their **** has been seemingly hit or miss.

Either way, just keep a wideband on it.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So turbo kit finally done, pulls 13-15 psi hard but when just cruising it hiccups some and car only builds full boost around 5k rpms. I'm running a stage 2 kinetics kit with a precision t3/t4 50 trim on obd1 engine, had to temporarily delete isv until fitting for intake tube gets welded up. So any ideas to late boost or the hiccups/sputter while cruising?? Thanks guys, otherwise I'm loving my ABA turbo and full boost

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> So turbo kit finally done, pulls 13-15 psi hard but when just cruising it hiccups some and car only builds full boost around 5k rpms. I'm running a stage 2 kinetics kit with a precision t3/t4 50 trim on obd1 engine, had to temporarily delete isv until fitting for intake tube gets welded up. So any ideas to late boost or the hiccups/sputter while cruising?? Thanks guys, otherwise I'm loving my ABA turbo and full boost
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


pressure test your piping.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Sorry but noob to fi haha. What exactly do you mean quintin? I have t-bolt clamps on everything and double checked they were tight, should I tighten them until they don't tighten any further? I was afraid of clamps digging in to couplers 

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I rechecked all t-bolt clamps and tightened them all as much as I could. Still kind if has hiccups when cruising though, on the gas it seems fine though

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Sorry for 50 million questions but does it seem normal to be able to hit like 8 psi in 1st, about 10psi in 2nd and spiking about 13-14 in 3rd?

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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

i have the same issue on light throttle i hickups, i put a new maf on it and it ran great for a while but its back now, it gets really annoying going down the freeway thats one reason i put the car to just race setting and park it in the garage unless i feel like driving a fast car. 

im still trying to figure it out slowely but surely.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Yea if I'm light throttle cruising or off gas coasting it hiccups, pretty annoying feeling it n hearing it pop through exhaust haha. Its almost like too much fuel being as how it runs good under boost

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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

What a/r are you running on the exhaust side?

Check for leaks on both cold and hot side of the turbo. Sometimes gaskets and studs on the exhaust side of the turbo could give you this kind of problems


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

No a/f hooked up, just got car together n running early this morning. I'll triple check all Turbo studs and bolts 

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=REGlonD_9z9K8EuJj2rBwA&bvm=bv.43287494,d.bGE


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Are obd1 c2 chips specific to an ecu number or not? Situation, I purchased one and it came in obd1 ecu from a 95 car ending part #aa my car is 93 ending in #d. Should I put chip in to my 93 ecu or do I need to keep chip in the 95 ecu and is that ok to hook up in my 93?

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Real reason is its needs an ISV back in there. Mine does the same thing without. When your driving down the road try cycling the key and see if it gets better.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Thats what I was thinking daskoupe and was hoping for. Plan on picking up a fitting to weld in to the intake pipe to run hose back to isv. Would that make it smell like its running rich at idle? 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

sir yes sir


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Awesome, at least I have good idea of what to do first n foremost now. Pulling 12-13psi and spiking 15 definitely puts smile on face, loving having my aba-t

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Making fitting for intake tube to hook up isv before class tonight, should it be put in tube after filter or tube going to throttle body? 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

its best if you go intake manifold to intercooler pipe. Think intake manifold-throttle body- intercooler pipe. You want it in that IC pipe.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

You mean right there? (Red circled pipe?) That's where I was thinking it should go

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yup


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Just installed it there, runs so much better. Still only building full boost around 5-5200k....

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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Which turbo do you have? What sort of exhaust and down pipe?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

T3/t4 precision 50 trim. 2.5" kinetics down pipe, hollowed cat, 2.5" tt resonator then 3" bullet muffler dumping at rear axle

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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

Do you know which precision 50 Trim? 

2.5" down pipe will hurt spool, as well as a big 50 trim. 5k isn't out of the realm of possibility if its a big A/R on a big 50 trim.

Edit: also what cam and do you have an adjustable gear? Whats that set at if you do?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yeah with that intake manifold and turbo full spool is in the 5's

Mine is at 4700 with a short runner and a billet wheel


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

.48 hot and cold, 268 cam auto tech cam gear 

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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

Ronroko do you have the kinetics pipe for air filter --> to --> turbo? I have one and they have it so you can dump the recirc into it and a line for the isv into it. I wonder if it makes a difference if I was to run it where you're planning to run it. In that case it would see pressure from the manifold side and pressure from the charge piping side. Anyone have any knowledge they care to share about this?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

you still shouldnt be spooling so ungodly late
:banghead:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I think it should spool sooner, at least I thought it would. Isn't .48 at a smaller turbo? 

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Boost gauge stops showing vacuum and reads 0 around 5k, around 5.6-5.7k I'm pushing 11psi and around 6k I'm pushing 14-15psi.... every hose and clamp is as tight as can be. Waste gate originally came with a 5.4psi spring but I put in 11.6 psi spring and then tweaked it higher with mbc, could that be causing late boost maybe? 

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

The Rice Cooker said:


> Ronroko do you have the kinetics pipe for air filter --> to --> turbo? I have one and they have it so you can dump the recirc into it and a line for the isv into it. I wonder if it makes a difference if I was to run it where you're planning to run it. In that case it would see pressure from the manifold side and pressure from the charge piping side. Anyone have any knowledge they care to share about this?


I have complete kinetics kit but it was for obd2 car so I welded in fitting on bottom of tube going to tb. The tube going from filter to turbo is where my dv and crankcase breather go in to. Car seems to run fine as far as idle and everything with it right before tb, minus the full boost at like 6k haha

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> you still shouldnt be spooling so ungodly late
> :banghead:


you need to get a real pressure tester. Google DIY boost leak tester.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Found post on here on how to make one n test it so I guess after work I'm going shopping and getting g everything then checking. 

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

yea you should have boost starting in the late 2k range!

i posted a video at the top of this thread about making a boost leak tester....


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

roknroko16v said:


> Boost gauge stops showing vacuum and reads 0 around 5k, around 5.6-5.7k I'm pushing 11psi and around 6k I'm pushing 14-15psi.... every hose and clamp is as tight as can be. Waste gate originally came with a 5.4psi spring but I put in 11.6 psi spring and then tweaked it higher with mbc, could that be causing late boost maybe?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Holy crap. Yeah something is 100% wrong I assumed you had full 15 psi at 5k, not start spooling at 5k. Real boost test and exhaust leak test. Check your cam timing as well, If its a bit retarded that will lead to a later spool as well. Get an adjustable gear and set to +2

Edit: are you sure the boost gauge is working properly? It could simply be a false reading. Going from 0 to 11 psi in 700rpm seems way to fast to be accurate.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I have dv running to vacuum on intake manifold and boost gauge is t-ed in to for vacuum going in to intake manifold, sound right? Boost gauge should be functioning properly, its new

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I have cam gear set advanced 2 degrees with Techtonics 268 cam

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

dude pressure test the car, then we will continue speculation.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I am as soon as I get done work but if that's not problem I want to have other things to try so I'm not sitting around clueless

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## acirE (Oct 19, 2009)

Here's your video roknroko16v


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks beautiful, here's video for reference everyone, ignore crappy phone sound quality and loud exhaust 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

try another boost gauge......I have never like autometers.. Vdo is the best


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Problem found, either waste gate gasket or flange is messed up. Waiting on gasket 

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I want to try the fiber material gasket instead of thin metal gasket, anyone know good place to get them? All I can find is metal ones

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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

woow...you were speeding...i like it 

glad you found the prob :thumbup:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

mk21.8Tjetta said:


> woow...you were speeding...i like it
> 
> glad you found the prob :thumbup:


Yea that was only time it would boost haha, new gaskets will be here tomorrow and gonna put copper sealant on as a just in case 

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## akabigmike (May 2, 2003)

I bit the bullet and talked w Franz today vipec44 is in my very near future


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> I have cam gear set advanced 2 degrees with Techtonics 268 cam


what kind of intake do you have on the car? I have a short runner on mine with a Autotech 270 and have my cam timing at 1* retard. i noticed when i put it advanced it would die at about 6000 RPM. the retard on the cam plus my lightweight flywheel really makes the motor sing at the top end all the way to about 7200 RPM when it stops pulling hard.

it doesnt rip the tires loos at 3500 but as soon as 4500-5000 hits its a bat outta hell.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Flipdriver80 said:


> what kind of intake do you have on the car? I have a short runner on mine with a Autotech 270 and have my cam timing at 1* retard. i noticed when i put it advanced it would die at about 6000 RPM. the retard on the cam plus my lightweight flywheel really makes the motor sing at the top end all the way to about 7200 RPM when it stops pulling hard.
> 
> it doesnt rip the tires loos at 3500 but as soon as 4500-5000 hits its a bat outta hell.


Factory manifold, mild head work and the cam set at +2

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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> Factory manifold, mild head work and the cam set at +2
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


I gained 40HP from going from the factory manifold to a short runner. 

made 201 with the stock manifold at 14 psi and stock cam

made 242 with the short runner and 270 cam at 13 psi


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Cam probably helped too, I have stuff to make a short runner just haven't had time

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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Just finished reading every page wassup 2.0t guys, I have built plenty 2.0t but haven't personally built one for myself so I've never posted.
List of what I've had for the past 7-8years that I plan on using with my new turbo set up. Obviously freshen and change what's needs changing.

Obd1 block oil squirters etc with dished pistons not castle ones All redone rings and bearings
Big valve head port and polished with dual springs titanium retainers
O2j trans with diff 3.94 rp
Awic set up but now changed to log style 450hp core straight threw and plan to run 2.25 piping to assist against lag.
A.i.s water meth trunk mounted kit.
Um 440 softwear with maf housing 
Schrick 272/270 dual pattern cam
2.5 free flow exhaust with autotech 2.5 magnaflow twin pipe muff
New to the motor will be gt2871r with .64hot kinetic mani with kinetic downpipe, tail 38mm wastegate. I've made great numbers with the twinscrew so I should be extremely happy with this


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

go 3 inch downpipe and get that TT magic cam:thumbup:


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Kinda don't mind the 2.5 downpipe at all, really don't wanna fab anything truthfully. Inkjow I'll be giving up a smoother powerband and a but of spool but it's coo. Now this said magic cam is? Considering everyone has there own opinion for which cam they prefer. I'm open tho. I have a 268/260 , a 270, and a stock cam laying in a box. Out of them all I like the power band of this 272/270 . I've seen what people use and prefer but haven't seen actual charts of which performs better on a back to back basis. But I can switch them out 123.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Techtonics started making a 276 fi cam

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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Flipdriver80 said:


> I gained 40HP from going from the factory manifold to a short runner.
> 
> made 201 with the stock manifold at 14 psi and stock cam
> 
> made 242 with the short runner and 270 cam at 13 psi


 I am much liking the sound of this as I just installed a short runner in preperation for a top mounted EFR 6258. Stock cam right now but I have plans and the basics to put together a proper high powered ABA-T (OBD1 head, TT268* cam, TT 42/35 big valve kit, Wiseco 9 to 1 pistons and Scat rods)


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> Techtonics started making a 276 fi cam
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


 love that cam so much


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

i do to woke my car right up, pulls for ever now


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

roknroko16v said:


> Techtonics started making a 276 fi cam
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


 this one?? 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...duct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_92&products_id=32


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

mk21.8Tjetta said:


> this one??
> http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...duct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_92&products_id=32


 Nope you have to call them for it. 

It's a 114deg LSA Cam.


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Prof315 said:


> I am much liking the sound of this as I just installed a short runner in preperation for a top mounted EFR 6258. Stock cam right now but I have plans and the basics to put together a proper high powered ABA-T (OBD1 head, TT268* cam, TT 42/35 big valve kit, Wiseco 9 to 1 pistons and Scat rods)


 How is that sri running with stock cam? 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Bern is that wotbox in yet?:laugh:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

It's in just doing some switching of signals to get it to work right


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Finally a member of the family everyone








1993 Jetta obd1
Kinetics stage 2
Precision t3/t4 50 trim
2.5" downpipe
Double stacked gaskets
Techtonics 268 cam
Autotech cam gear set at +2
Mild port & polish
spec stage 3 unsprung 6 puck 
3" mad
42# injectors
12psi

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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

roknroko16v said:


> Finally a member of the family everyone \
> 1993 Jetta obd1
> Kinetics stage 2
> Precision t3/t4 50 trim
> ...


 Hows it feel and how many miles on the engine?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Real strong, pulls hard. Starts boosting around 2900 and full boost wants to spin tires at like 45-50 in 2nd. Bottom end has about 145,xxx cylinder head I rebuilt and put on about a month ago

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## lbubbyj (Oct 22, 2004)

ABA Stacked headgaskets, ARP head studs, ported OBD1 head,TT HD valve springs, TT 268 cam, SPA exhaust manifold, Short runner intake manifold, 3" sidepipe exhaust with muffler, Precision 5431E Turbo(last season), Turbonetics Super 60(this season), TT chip last year and hopefully a United Motorsports tune this year. 


lbubbyj said:


> Turbo was a Precision HP 5431E.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 In this car 







[/QUOTE]


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

That may just be one of the most disgusting things I've ever seen. :beer:


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## lbubbyj (Oct 22, 2004)

AJmustDIE said:


> That may just be one of the most disgusting things I've ever seen. :beer:


 It'll look better once painted. I kinda like how it looks now :what:


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

PMLyf said:


> How is that sri running with stock cam?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


 It's a big improvement over the stock manifold. The midrange pulls much harder especially in 2nd 3rd and 4th gears. In spite of my 3.38 ring and pinion I now have a 2.not so slow  Can't wait to hang the turbo and make some boost.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

lbubbyj said:


> In this car


[/QUOTE]

That car is dreamy. Beautiful setup. :beer:

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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Okay guys so with my gti i plan on doing a pieced together turbo kit, sri, 268 cams. But i have to sort of buy it all in pieces to afford it. Should i install the sri and 268 first and enjoy them while i work on buying the turbo kit, or should i wait and put it all in at once?

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

coolalex said:


> Okay guys so with my gti i plan on doing a pieced together turbo kit, sri, 268 cams. But i have to sort of buy it all in pieces to afford it. Should i install the sri and 268 first and enjoy them while i work on buying the turbo kit, or should i wait and put it all in at once?
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 I would do cam and sri first while collecting other parts. I'd also pick up adjustable cam gear and set at +2.

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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Thanks for the advice. I actually found a 16v conversion local for 400 so i think I'm gonna scoop that up. Only thing it needs is a headgasket and bolts. Everything else is included :thumbup:

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

coolalex said:


> Thanks for the advice. I actually found a 16v conversion local for 400 so i think I'm gonna scoop that up. Only thing it needs is a headgasket and bolts. Everything else is included :thumbup:
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


 While all motor and 16v's are fun I have to say I love my ABA turbo and would pick it over any of past motor setups I've had. 16v's are headaches, either they run amazing or always having problems, 8v's are simple and cheap to replace or for parts. Be careful with so called conversion kits as most of time they aren't complete or more is actually needed then advertised. Are you getting complete motor or swapping 16v on to ABA bottom end to make hybrid motor? But in all honesty, go ABA turbo and never look back

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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I still plan on going turbo on top of the 16v head, as a matter of fact it includes some of the stuff needed for turbo. He assured me its everything needed as he ran it on his aba 16vt

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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Being theres tons of guys with experience running they're ABAT's i figured to attempt to ask for assistance in here. I recently finished my turbo build ( http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5317406-My-Budget-Build-Daily-Driver-(-pic-intensive-) ) and am having a lean at WOT issue. 

When i do a throttle body adaption it runs flawless and pulls hard to redline with AFR never exceeding 11.9..... this lasts for two days then its back to 13.1 and i cant figure out why. I've replaced the MAF and FPR with OEM items but after about 2 days it reverts back to lean pulls at WOT. My next step is throttle body replacement im suspecting theres an issue with the TPS because when its acting up at 3/4 its perfect. Once i stab WOT boom 13.1 AFR.... anyone have any ideas? 

Boost set up: 

C2 stage 2 software 
Green top 440's 
TRE Performance External Inline 255 LPH Fuel Pump 
C2 head spacer 
3 bar FPR 
Garrett T3 .48/.42 
3" VR6 MAF housing 
Autotech 270 cam 
Techtonics Tuning cam gear set to full retard 
Rebuilt OBD1 head 
Resealed OBDII block 
The common BKRE7 plugs 
2.5" intercooler piping 
2.5" turbo back 
MKIV 1.8T IAT 
Boosting 12psi


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Seems really high AFR for that low of boost. Try settng your cam gear back to stock (TDC) and report back


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I apologize for not including this information, ive had this issue since build completion and have adjusted the timing gear all over the place with no change in AFR. This is whats posted when i scan Engine Electronics: 
*C2 Inc. 2008.408 HS V08* 

Can anyone confirm this is C2 stage 2 software? I am running the Bosch 440 green tops and 3" MAF housing to accomodate. What im thinking is if the seller who i purchased my software from was wrong then the 3" MAF would be my culprit as Stage 1 calls for Stock MAF.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> I apologize for not including this information, ive had this issue since build completion and have adjusted the timing gear all over the place with no change in AFR. This is whats posted when i scan Engine Electronics:
> *C2 Inc. 2008.408 HS V08*
> 
> Can anyone confirm this is C2 stage 2 software? I am running the Bosch 440 green tops and 3" MAF housing to accomodate. What im thinking is if the seller who i purchased my software from was wrong then the 3" MAF would be my culprit as Stage 1 calls for Stock MAF.


 I'd call c2 and confirm with them, Bennett was huge help to me multiple times, great customer service

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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

You think? Originally that was my plan of action but reading from others on here C2 gives no support for items they did not sell directly to you. I was hoping someone could just take a look at they're Stg2 level and confirm for me....


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Same thing I've heard, if they have no record of you being the original purchaser they won't even give you the time of day. When I ordered my 440's from them and one turned out to be stuck open brand new out of the box they wouldn't even warranty the mother****er because I had "waited too long" to install the injectors, I was gathering parts for a turbo build please don't act like you haven't waited a few months to install something brand new. 

Sorry but they didn't help me worth a ****.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

AJ arent you running C2 Stg 2? Whats your software level


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Weird because I didn't buy anything and they took time to look stuff up and even gave me return phone call.

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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> AJ arent you running C2 Stg 2? Whats your software level


 Yeah it's Stg 2. I will see if I can get you something by later tonight. 



roknroko16v said:


> Weird because I didn't buy anything and they took time to look stuff up and even gave me return phone call.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


 Probably interested in a dollar.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So yesterday car started hesitating at 3k when boost started building so I scanned the car and I'm getting a 01265 code for "egr vacuum regulator solenoid valve-n18" any idea where its located or what it looks like? Also if I erase the code it comes back within minutes, almost right away. My car doesn't have an egr on it though and hasn't the whole time I've owned it prior to turbo install, it does still have the evap system though.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

That happen to me once but it was only because I used a temp ecu, wasn't that code tho. Either way I had purchased a um chip which deleted secondary air injection second o2 sensor etc 
isn't egr on obd1 maybe I'm wrong


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

cifdig said:


> That happen to me once but it was only because I used a temp ecu, wasn't that code tho. Either way I had purchased a um chip which deleted secondary air injection second o2 sensor etc
> isn't egr on obd1 maybe I'm wrong


 Yea, my car is obd1. 
I'm running c2 42# low compression tune if that helps any

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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Egr reduces nox, lowers combustion temp I believe I think there's a Post about it. Search 2.0 Aba egr delete, cause I'm sure you may have removed it when you went turbo. Don't go by my word tho. Double check


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I didn't remove it, never was anything there. My car is really early 1993 and had some engine parts stamped Canada but I don't know for sure if its a Canadian model, Canadian models have no egr

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Read through some DIY on removing egr and looked for pin 10 on ecu which is one for egr and my car definitely never had one as there is no wires in engine harness for it yet ecu is thinking there should be one.... 

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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Sorry to bug but im getting no help from C2.... can someone please confirm if this is Stage 1 or 2 software? 

*C2 Inc. 2008.408 HS V08*


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## JakRabit (Aug 8, 2003)

*BOV placement*

Why does everyone put the bov close to the tb makes no sense. Look at the way the factory does it on a 1.8T and amazingly enough its closest to the turbo for a REASON. If you guys think you are smarter than the VW engineers prove it.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

JakRabit said:


> Why does everyone put the bov close to the tb makes no sense. Look at the way the factory does it on a 1.8T and amazingly enough its closest to the turbo for a REASON. If you guys think you are smarter than the VW engineers prove it.


 Because those are soccer mom econoboxes tuned for reliability and gas mileage, not performance.

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

JakRabit said:


> Why does everyone put the bov close to the tb makes no sense. Look at the way the factory does it on a 1.8T and amazingly enough its closest to the turbo for a REASON. If you guys think you are smarter than the VW engineers prove it.


 because the air still has forward velocity when the TB shuts and thus putting the BOV there maintains that. 

Why would you want the air to reverse direction and go all the way back to the turbo to relieve pressure? 
:beer:


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

JakRabit said:


> Why does everyone put the bov close to the tb makes no sense. Look at the way the factory does it on a 1.8T and amazingly enough its closest to the turbo for a REASON. If you guys think you are smarter than the VW engineers prove it.


 :laugh::laugh::laugh: as an OEM engineer, I can promise you there are 100 other reasons then pure performance function. There are these other things called cost, weight, and packaging being balanced to performance... on high volume engine like a 1.8T I promise you performance was not on the top of the list :thumbup:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Guys, really?

Next to the compressor is not a bad place. When it relieves the pressure the compressor wheel is still spinning instead of moving the air throughout the whole system just to let it go it does so RIGHT after its been compressed. If you think its wrong go tell Borg Warner their whole EFR line is a bust.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> Guys, really?
> 
> Next to the compressor is not a bad place. When it relieves the pressure the compressor wheel is still spinning instead of moving the air throughout the whole system just to let it go it does so RIGHT after its been compressed. If you think its wrong go tell Borg Warner their whole EFR line is a bust.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


 Hear hear although the EFR is really a horse of a different color. The DV on that beast actually directs the airflow back onto the compressor wheel to keep things spinning. At least thats how things look on my 6258.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

That's just further intelligence in design, I'm just talking about pressure relief and where/why.


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## BT85 (Oct 15, 2011)

looking at picking up an obd2 aba cabby that some guy turbo'd. he says he runs 8-9psi as a daily but he has no ic on it. does anyone think it would be necessary to have an ic if i keep boost pressures the same? or do you think it would be running too hot after a decent drive?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

AJmustDIE said:


> Guys, really?
> 
> Next to the compressor is not a bad place. When it relieves the pressure the compressor wheel is still spinning instead of moving the air throughout the whole system just to let it go it does so RIGHT after its been compressed. If you think its wrong go tell Borg Warner their whole EFR line is a bust.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


 .... yeah really, do you seriously think turbo technology has just exploded yesterday and they figured to put the by pass valve on the compressor all of the sudden? Your example is entirely focused on a different beast as has stated. 

The true advancement in turbo technology is from dynamics of the wheels themselves with the enhancement of materials.... the better the material the thinner and thinner they can make them and the lighter at a cost which YOU can actually afford.... and of course this has came with the enhancement of CAE technology.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

You guys are over-thinking this way too hard....


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

BT85 said:


> looking at picking up an obd2 aba cabby that some guy turbo'd. he says he runs 8-9psi as a daily but he has no ic on it. does anyone think it would be necessary to have an ic if i keep boost pressures the same? or do you think it would be running too hot after a decent drive?


 If it were me, I'd run one. By having one you're only going to benefit the cat and turbo set up 

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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Not to mention having cooler denser air supplied to the turbo. Stage 2 kinetics turbo kit is rated at 7-9 iirc and they run intercooler on it

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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

> roknroko16v
> 
> Re: ABA turbo setups
> Not to mention having cooler denser air supplied to the turbo. Stage 2 kinetics turbo kit is rated at 7-9 iirc and they run intercooler on it


 To be technical the cooler denser air is not going to the turbo, but being cooled as it leaves the compressor of your turbo. So an intercooler is a win win. 

If you can afford to put aside a couple hundred bucks for an intercooler setup it will be a worthwhile investment. I don't think you're buying a turbo cabby to drive it slow.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

The Rice Cooker said:


> To be technical the cooler denser air is not going to the turbo, but being cooled as it leaves the compressor of your turbo. So an intercooler is a win win.
> 
> If you can afford to put aside a couple hundred bucks for an intercooler setup it will be a worthwhile investment. I don't think you're buying a turbo cabby to drive it slow.


 Thanks for better explanation haha, was sneaking on here while at work so went with basic answer 

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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

AJmustDIE said:


> That's just further intelligence in design, I'm just talking about pressure relief and where/why.


 ... but your actual example of where doesn't justify your why, its for another reason, it has nothing to do with pressure release overall in the boost system as to keeping the highest velocity air to be forced back through the low pressure side of the compressor for 'anti-lag'. Highest velocity air is closest to the compressor itself, that's why the placement is where it is, increased efficiency for its anti-lag technology. 

I don't understand what we're over thinking rather then under thinking from an assumption made from visual perception with no foundation from a) BOV placement from factory and b) BOV placement from an EFR turbo. :screwy: 

Honestly I wont be surprised if there truly isn't a direct answer to the original question of 'best bov placement?', there are probably a dozen of factors which will change the results from setup to setup which may only have marginal benefit.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

GTijoejoe said:


> there are probably a dozen of factors which will change the results from setup to setup which may only have marginal benefit.


 Insert echo here. 



AJmustDIE said:


> You guys are over-thinking this way too hard....


 

Once again, I was MERELY stating as that it really doesn't make a difference where in the system the pressure is relieved, like YOU said, if any benefits are to be had it's definitely slightly marginal and would vary from setup to setup. Not once did I try to bring up what the EFR does or can do, only where it's BOV for pressure relief is located, _nothing more nothing less._ 

How can something so simple be picked apart like this?


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## BT85 (Oct 15, 2011)

thanks guys appreciate the help!!


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

AJmustDIE said:


> How can something so simple be picked apart like this?


 :sly: ummmm the internet :laugh: 
I think it was the order of posts and how I read it as supportive evidence :facepalm:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So I've decided I'd like to put in a oil catch can now that turbo set up is installed and squared away and was just wondering what type everyone recommends. Should I run closed setup or a vent to atmosphere? And do I keep factory breather on valve cover or delete that? Pictures appreciated and welcome 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

was vented for years. Went closed due to the smell


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> was vented for years. Went closed due to the smell


 How do you have it run? Did you keep the factory PVC/breather? 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I have a g60 valve cover with -10 AN fitting welded to it. And I have a TT block of plate for the block With I drilled a hole in and welded another -10 fitting on. Those both run to a can I made which then has -6 line the goes to the inlet side of the intake.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> 2pt slow where do you make full boost?
> 
> 
> Mine
> ...


Looking at your catch can, it looks like there is third hose off the back/bottom, what does that go to or what it for? 

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

that was the old setup and a bad one...
Its this way now










that top line goes to the intake side by the maf/dv's


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

wot box installed in a obd1 aba turbo, got it done and its working, had to make some adjustment to the paramters of the signals, but got it working, 2 step set at 5500 rpm makes some good flames, 


video to come (wife has camera at the beach for the week)

das it works and is pretty easy to set up.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> wot box installed in a obd1 aba turbo, got it done and its working, had to make some adjustment to the paramters of the signals, but got it working, 2 step set at 5500 rpm makes some good flames,
> 
> 
> video to come (wife has camera at the beach for the week)
> ...


Details on that wiring son! also


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

follow directions on website, but you have to invert the brake pedal signal as im using a vw switch and it cuts power when clutch is ingaged instead of sending power threw, so you can change the signal in the wot box, same with tps signal it shows allways full throttle so you have to invert that in the wot box to. 


the car will not start inless you change the signals as it thinks its at full throttle with the clutch in making it think you 2 stepping it. 

i found this out as it floodes the car nicely, 

and yes it is a fap, fap ,fap upgrade.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

that does not make any sense haha.


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

rabbitchaser said:


> wot box installed in a obd1 aba turbo, got it done and its working, had to make some adjustment to the paramters of the signals, but got it working, 2 step set at 5500 rpm makes some good flames,
> 
> 
> video to come (wife has camera at the beach for the week)
> ...


SICK!!!!!!!!!! DO WANT TO SEE FLAMES!!! but no flamERS....


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

> rabbitchaser
> 
> follow directions on website, but you have to invert the brake pedal signal as im using a vw switch and it cuts power when clutch is ingaged instead of sending power threw, so you can change the signal in the wot box, same with tps signal it shows allways full throttle so you have to invert that in the wot box to.


This sounds complicated. But props on getting it done.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Installed an msd dis with 2 step built in and works wonders.. 2 foot flames


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

cifdig said:


> Installed an msd dis with 2 step built in and works wonders.. 2 foot flames


this one?
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/62112/10002/-1?parentProductId=758166

more info please


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

http://www.msdignition.com/Products...igital/6421_-_MSD-6AL-2_Ignition_Control.aspx

This one. Wrks very well, feels very crisp and responsive The only downside is that you will get about 2 years out of it and then it tends to fail but msd will repair for a fairly good proce


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## VDUBZ-83' (Nov 13, 2011)

*My setup*

Mines in a Mark one. And once again...in peices :sly:


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

^that engine is so so clean :thumbup:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

It's not complicated actually the user interface is very easy to use and just check a ox and it changes signals for you


Run down of wiring 

Blue wire to green and white tps wire
Yellow wire to black and white wire on injector one
Red, red and black wire go to pin three of coil see directions from n2mb on how to properly set that splice up, and green wire goes to clutch switch I'm using a stock switch from a mark3 with power wire from fuse block and green wire hooked to pin 2 on switch

Got home tonight and fired it up and it died flooded the crap out of it come to find out coolant temp sensor is dead explains why I'm running so rich here lately and studded during light throttle I will get it replaced tomorrow and get some video.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

good **** man. I was going buy one but I just got blasted with the yearly vet bill


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

that sucks man, if you need any help let me know when you get it.


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## VDUBZ-83' (Nov 13, 2011)

thanks! its still getting more goodies :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> follow directions on website, but you have to invert the brake pedal signal as im using a vw switch and it cuts power when clutch is ingaged instead of sending power threw, so you can change the signal in the wot box, same with tps signal it shows allways full throttle so you have to invert that in the wot box to.
> 
> 
> the car will not start inless you change the signals as it thinks its at full throttle with the clutch in making it think you 2 stepping it.
> ...


So you mean that you used a mk3 brake switch in place of the clutch switch that isnt there? If so, you could have just inverted the clutch signal with the software...in the same way obd2 aba cars have to select the box to invert the tps signal through the software.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

That is exactly what I did I used the user interface to change input of clutch switch


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well now i have inherited a wierd problem, 

i can get the car running get it warm, shut if off and it will not restart just floodes it self, it now has a new ect sensor in it. it has nothing to do with the wot box. 

it just floods it so bad that the plugs are dripping,if i let it cool all the way down it will start again. anyone think maybe a iat sensor could do this, as i just wired mine in correctly the other day. 


also daskoupe what is your ecu part number, mine just took a crap for some reason, pluged the one in from y 95 obd1 jetta and gti started right up. 

my ecu as i look at it is for a car with egr, im hoping to find a early one with new egr so that its not ready for it.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> well now i have inherited a wierd problem,
> 
> i can get the car running get it warm, shut if off and it will not restart just floodes it self, it now has a new ect sensor in it. it has nothing to do with the wot box.
> 
> ...


From everything I researched about the egr and non egr cars is that if you have ecu and harness for it but don't want it all you have to do is clip #10 pin wire in ecu harness. If ecu has it but your harness doesn't theoretically you should be ok at least from my understanding. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though :beer:

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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I think I'm going to get a couple Ecu from the yard next weekend and try them out I'm just looking for one with just bare bones as my car is a swapping don't have evap or egr or a iac. On my car


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Thought I'd share my mk3 ABA turbo on way home from class

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2_3HMnORuI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

you need an IAC for sure. 02 sensor failed ? These ones can fail rich. Could explain the hot start flooding


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

O2 is brand new its only when cranking while car is running wide band floats right around 14.7 but I shut the car off ablnd go to restart and it floods so bar I had to Chang le the oil the other day since it was full of fuels,I'm going to try some stuff this weekend and see if I can get it figured.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VDUBZ-83' said:


> Mines in a Mark one. And once again...in peices :sly:


get that FMU crap outta there! unless you have it set to 1:1 like OEM.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> O2 is brand new its only when cranking while car is running wide band floats right around 14.7 but I shut the car off ablnd go to restart and it floods so bar I had to Chang le the oil the other day since it was full of fuels,I'm going to try some stuff this weekend and see if I can get it figured.


flooding while cranking but runs fine once running... Hmmm
That's something I would have to have in front of me. That is with the throttle closed?
Seems like that's a TPS issue you know? Maybe going hey I'm seeing WOT lets open those injectors up. 

Does it dump with the key on? or just cranking


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

No fuel with just key on only when cranking 


On a side note I think I'm done with aba turbo, I just picked up a 92 325i and I love it I'm looking into turboing it it's obd1 also and a ton of support on tuner pro for tuning along with chips 


I am going to start a part out soon lots of good stuff will be going


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

boooooooo

Dibs on wot box


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Booo as well but interested to see what parts are getting sold 

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

I have some used 830cc injectors for sale....if someone is looking to make real power 

$210shipped:beer:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> I have some used 830cc injectors for sale....if someone is looking to make real power
> 
> $210shipped:beer:


As tempting as that sounds I need head studs and head spacer first so I can install my walbro and turn boost up then push limits of factory crap 020 trans

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> As tempting as that sounds I need head studs and head spacer first so I can install my walbro and turn boost up then push limits of factory crap 020 trans
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


get me the part number for the studs u need..


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

studs are one of the things i will be selling, if you want them they might have 5k on them, 


also why head spacer just stack gaskets it works great.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

wot box, wide band, boost gauge and momo steering wheel are all staying with me for the bmw. 

short runner intake, 440 injectors just cleaned and balanced i have paper work, c2 chip obd1 stage 2 stock compression, 3in down pipe with 3 in v band on both ends, 3in exhaust with flow master circle track muffler and magnaflow high flow cat, dumps on drivers side under vehicle in front of rear tire for a mk2. 

water to air intercooler set up, 3in in and out vr6 aux water pump brand new, and hoses and fittings, along with radiator out of a 800 cc 4wheeler that fits in front of radiator, 

obd1 head with light port and polish, brand new tt276 cam with hd valve springs and new lifters, it might have 10 miles on it and makes the car amazing, 

o2j trans with 3.39 vr6 gearing in it, with neuspeed short shift on trans along with b&m short shift in the shift box can you say flick of a finger. trans has welded diff in it though, but i do have a open carrier i can sale with it. 

all swap stuff for o2j, pedal cluster, clutch master cylinder, support brackets and all lines its in the car and working now

6puck sprung ceramic clutch with g60 flywheel and pressure plate good for 350ft lbs of torque, has maybe 5k on it also, handles launches on 24in slicks great with no slipping. 

along with alot of new sensors, brand new mk1 radiator, all wiring for mk3 swap into anything else. 

its a huge list and makes me sad it has been really fun who know if no one jumps on most of it maybe i will race it this season and get into the 11s.


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## VDUBZ-83' (Nov 13, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> get that FMU crap outta there! unless you have it set to 1:1 like OEM.


I was going to set it just under 40psi, Im new to cars in general, but i was thinking that bigger injectors and a chip with be a better solution?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> studs are one of the things i will be selling, if you want them they might have 5k on them,
> 
> 
> also why head spacer just stack gaskets it works great.


Interested in studs and price

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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> \
> 
> water to air intercooler set up, 3in in and out vr6 aux water pump brand new, and hoses and fittings, along with radiator out of a 800 cc 4wheeler that fits in front of radiator,
> 
> ...


what the number dog!


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

VDUBZ-83' said:


> I was going to set it just under 40psi, Im new to cars in general, but i was thinking that bigger injectors and a chip with be a better solution?


eace: yup


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

akabigmike2 said:


> I bit the bullet and talked w Franz today vipec44 is in my very near future


So wish Franz and Justice were still in Winchester.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Happy to report that two kids in mildly modded sti were trying to act cool and my little 8v stayed right with them :thumbup: I love my aba-t

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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

roknroko16v said:


> Happy to report that two kids in mildly modded sti were trying to act cool and my little 8v stayed right with them :thumbup: I love my aba-t
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Nice!! 

I used to own an STI back when I was retarded....:banghead:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

mk21.8Tjetta said:


> Nice!!
> 
> I used to own an STI back when I was retarded....:banghead:


Pretty funny I actually ran in to one kid later in the night at wawa and he walked up asking if I was racing an sti earlier then proceeded to say "I've got to ask, what the f*ck is done to your Jetta because I was having a hard time keeping up" haha definitely made my night. The still had exhaust, massive front mount and was pushing about 15psi

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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

mmm, would be more then 15psi, no? Stock is 14.5psi. I had cobb reflast with everything else stock and it put it to 17.5psi. I think with Downpipe upgrade it could go another few psi....maybe 20. I forget. I was retarted like i said....


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

mk21.8Tjetta said:


> mmm, would be more then 15psi, no? Stock is 14.5psi. I had cobb reflast with everything else stock and it put it to 17.5psi. I think with Downpipe upgrade it could go another few psi....maybe 20. I forget. I was retarted like i said....


Who knows, seemed like mommy daddy bought him it ha. I'm only pushing about 12-13 psi

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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Ya wouldnt be surprised....:screwy: when I bought mine a kid was getting one delivered to his parents house for his FIRST vehicle. Probably a present for stopping sucking his thumb. Didnt even know how to drive manual....:facepalm:

STI's are awesome cars, but its a cheaters way to go fast. There is no pride in it. "Built, NOT BOUGHT" is the way to go!!


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

That's what I love about mine, all work done by me. Nobody expects it being car has crappy flat white paint job (from po) but with the exhaust dumping under the car it just sounds mean and come 4k full boost hits 

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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

roknroko16v said:


> That's what I love about mine, all work done by me. Nobody expects it being car has crappy flat white paint job (from po) but with the exhaust dumping under the car it just sounds mean and come 4k full boost hits
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


YEAH! Wheres the LIKE button??!! :laugh:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

mk21.8Tjetta said:


> YEAH! Wheres the LIKE button??!! :laugh:




























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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

What gap are you guys running your plugs at? I had to gap down to 25 thousandths to get it to stop missing at 15psi.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> What gap are you guys running your plugs at? I had to gap down to 25 thousandths to get it to stop missing at 15psi.


Mine are set about 24-25 thousandths 

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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

.21 BKR7E's at 18psi even though psi is not really relavant. Starts and runs like a dream


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## PMLyf (Apr 18, 2011)

Whats the cheapest you can turbo the aba for? 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

600 bucks is what I did my first setup for. But it was lame after about 5 months and my need for a more professional looking setup


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

2pt. slo said:


> .21 BKR7E's at 18psi even though psi is not really relavant. Starts and runs like a dream


Do you think it'd be beneficial to set mine at say .022 vs .024 like I have them now? 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

roknroko16v said:


> Mine are set about 24-25 thousandths
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Ok great because when i turned the boost up to 18psi it starting missing like a mofo so i gapped down to 25 thousandths to stop it.... wasnt sure where everyone else was set at. 



2pt. slo said:


> .21 BKR7E's at 18psi even though psi is not really relavant. Starts and runs like a dream


Same plugs but at .25 wish we had stronger ignitions.....


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Any simple aftermarket solution to amp up spark energy?


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

AJmustDIE said:


> Any simple aftermarket solution to amp up spark energy?


X2


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

AJmustDIE said:


> Any simple aftermarket solution to amp up spark energy?


A buddy of mine wired up a mad coil to his all motor ABA. I'll find out if he is on vortex, I'm sure he is.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Ok great because when i turned the boost up to 18psi it starting missing like a mofo so i gapped down to 25 thousandths to stop it.... wasnt sure where everyone else was set at.
> 
> 
> 
> Same plugs but at .25 wish we had stronger ignitions.....


many use .22

ABA ignition sucks a mad dueche... one of the reasons I went standalone with wasted spark coil.... you know on top of the fact no body had any type of adequate tuning solution back then :laugh:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

joe you are parting?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> joe you are parting?


I am parting, time to give up.

Most of all the good stuff is gone, still got the turbo (some how wtf?)... and IC system.
Haven't touched the motor yet.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Joe give me a call. 703-732-9144


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


> Joe give me a call. 703-732-9144


On da tele? haha call me back broisf


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

Please keep the good info on turbo ABA's coming, and please post your classifieds in the correct forum.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Well after 3 years and 2 blow turbos I finally change my o2sensor haha. Put a new factory one in along with a factory plug. Also pulled my NGK bkr8iex's out. The gaps had all changed over the last 6 months (where all set at ..24)

#1 .28 # 2 .28 #3 .30 #4 .24

Now I dropped down to a BKR6IEX all gapped at .22

Also did a injector service prior to plug and 02 swap today. Mainly because I believe they are bleeding off fuel pressure when sitting over night.

Anyways It drives better from Idle to just under half throttle. AFR's response is quicker and it seems to be better all around.

Now I have a new maf, 02s, just need a TPS haha


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well have had alot of intrested in a few pieces of my set up 

but i just can let a few pieces go and have the car sit here 

so untill someone steps up and buys the engine and turbo set up its staying together. 

put a new tps, and ecu in the car it runs beautiful now. car is getting raced this weekend its all set back up with the slicks on it and ready to go. 

we will see how the new cam helps the 1/4 mile times, hoping to have it in the 11s this year if i race it the whole year.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> well have had alot of intrested in a few pieces of my set up
> 
> but i just can let a few pieces go and have the car sit here
> 
> ...


 yeah I bought a new car so my toy money went bye bye. 

Did you get a new tps or new to you tps


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Anyone running c2 low compression 42# tune have problem with car seeming to run stupid rich until warmed up? To point you can smell excess gas, I don't have a wide and yet, a son and school takes a lot if money lol.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

my c2 is pretty rich for like the first 90 seconds or so..... But Its also pretty rich under 10inch vacuum anytime driving(#42,4 bar, walbro)


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

my c2 tune does the same first 90 seconds it does not want to run well, but after that wide band levels out at about 15-14.5, i have just learned to start the car and let it sit there for about 2 min before i touch the gas pedal. 


das, its actually a new to me, i bought a brand new tps about 4 months ago, it lasted for 2 months before it started having dead spots and just finally died, 

im actually running one with 2 plugs on it from a auto now, car runs greats. if i was to go buy a new one it would be a genuine vw one.


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## S***box (Feb 3, 2012)

Here's a quick pic of my work in progress.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

S***box said:


> Here's a quick pic of my work in progress.


 Where did you pick up your short runner? Im in the market for one but not looking to buy $700 from bahn brenner.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Where did you pick up your short runner? Im in the market for one but not looking to buy $700 from bahn brenner.


 Maybe I'm wrong but looks like usrt manifold. Do like I plan to t.o.n.y and cut factory lower at flange the go to onlinemetals.com and buy tubing and then section of 3.5" for plenum and get it welded

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## S***box (Feb 3, 2012)

Yep, got it from USRT


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Tony, you know the sources just build your own for 300ish.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

S***box said:


> Yep, got it from USRT


 They no longer make them, if i can find one used cheaper i'll pick that up. 



AJmustDIE said:


> Tony, you know the sources just build your own for 300ish.


 Yes i can make my own, but it'll be a guessing game i was wanting something that has a track record making power.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Pussies can't be heroes.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

AJmustDIE said:


> Pussies can't be heroes.


 Oh ya? Hows your project going? :screwy:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Things don't happen when there's no mula. :thumbdown:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

ran a 13.7 today with a 2.0 60 foot and 107mph out the back door, still learning the car and will make some changes in the next month, 

1 catcch can i blew oil all over my hood and passanger side of windshield every run. 
2 ice tank for water to air, talking with another running the same set up as me but with a tank dropped intake temps 20 degrees even with out ice. 
3 pull the trans and put the 16 valve ring and pinion back in it, will keep 1,3,4 from ccm and other will be from the passat 16valve trans. 

its geared way to high i go out the back door at the very very top of 3rd gear when everything hooks up. 3.39 r%p is awesome for daily but not getting out of a hole i will be going back to the 3.67 


all in all car did on, would brake up everyonce in a while blew some hoses off broke the shift linkage in the o2j box but got it fixed, just gremlins to get out i have at least 5 more track days this year. 

we started a vw, audi, porsche league here in portland and had 24 cars show today we are very very happy at the turn out.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Anybody ever have erratic idle problems running a forge diverter valve? Picked one up used at local show and idle is really bad like a vacuum leak, put factory 1.8t valve back on and car is fine. I even got the spring tuning kit and put a green spring in which is the 5-15lb spring, my car spikes 14-15 and holds about 12psi

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Make sure your vac lines arent collapsing meaning worn out or not strong enough to hold up, also when you put the dv back together make sure you didn't pinch the rubber rings. I have the5-15 spring to with 1 shim


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

cifdig said:


> Make sure your vac lines arent collapsing meaning worn out or not strong enough to hold up, also when you put the dv back together make sure you didn't pinch the rubber rings. I have the5-15 spring to with 1 shim


 I was wondering about the crappy vacuum line that came with turbo kit, it seemed really soft. I have 5-15 in right now with two shims but am getting better vacuum line after work and will see

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

cifdig said:


> Make sure your vac lines arent collapsing meaning worn out or not strong enough to hold up, also when you put the dv back together make sure you didn't pinch the rubber rings. I have the5-15 spring to with 1 shim


 How much psi are you running? 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

I was running 16-18 psi. My vac was -14 but I have a decent size cam that's why my vac is slightly off. I had problems with my dv too then I realized the rubber rings were going bad so it didn't work the way it should. It would work them not work.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

cifdig said:


> I was running 16-18 psi. My vac was -14 but I have a decent size cam that's why my vac is slightly off. I had problems with my dv too then I realized the rubber rings were going bad so it didn't work the way it should. It would work them not work.


 Mine spikes 14-15psi and vacuum is -14 to -15 with a straight 268 tt cam. I tested dv like forge said to and o-rings seem fine as far as holding the pressure. If different vacuum line doesn't solve it guess I'm rebuilding it

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So forge diverter was issue and problem is solved. Been having problems with wastegate copper nuts coming loose and fixed that, now car runs better then it ever has but under full load around 10psi I get a squealing noise which some people are saying boost leak, but car runs better then ever and holds boost fine. Any insight? Its one thing after another haha

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## kalisto2002 (Mar 28, 2013)

*Questions?*

I got a TD05 turbo from the guy who used to own my car; said he had it running before he sold it 
To the dealer I bought it from. Anyways I was wondering what I would need to run it again? 
I know I need a Intake and Exhaust turbo manifold, intercooler and piping. 
What else would I need to make my turbo dreams come true


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

kalisto2002 said:


> I got a TD05 turbo from the guy who used to own my car; said he had it running before he sold it
> To the dealer I bought it from. Anyways I was wondering what I would need to run it again?
> I know I need a Intake and Exhaust turbo manifold, intercooler and piping.
> What else would I need to make my turbo dreams come true


 how bout fuel injectors? a tune? maybe a head gasket spacer? 

oh and a few more things... 

Your turbo manifold will be custom, as will all your piping. :beer:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Just curious if anyone else running kinetics down pipe, manifold and wastegate have problem with the nuts that hold wastegate to manifold coming loose? Every couple weeks I have to retighten then. I got stainless nuts to try vs the copper ones that came with kit but its abit annoying 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Pressure washers worked just fine on mine or you could look at locking bolts like stage 8


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

mine is an ATP and it does the same thing. Just something I check when checking the oil now :thumbup:


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)




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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

hows the honda radiator work out?


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

Daskoupe said:


> hows the honda radiator work out?


Awesome! Just with a single 12" fan it can idle all day. Never any over heating issues. The factory overflow tank makes it real easy to keep an eye on coolant levels.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

what exhaust manifold are you running

im thinking about going to a top mount when I order my 6262 at the end of race season.


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

The exhaust manifold is from a 6 cylinder turbo diesel Volvo that VW made the motor for.It was already t3 flanged I just cut the end runners off.I welded a v band on the egr hole for the wastegate. The placement of the turbo is perfect for a mk1 and if you are not looking to spend money weld l-ing something and do not mind people talking(&^^&** this is a good option. I have never seen anyone run one before, but I was not looking that hard.


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

Here is a picture of the manifold. It is what it is. It was 3 dollars at the scrap yard. and it works









Here is another one showing factory tapped egr location.


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

,


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

having problems with my 2.0 the latest problem is that no boost pressure. So heres a noobish question can an egr cause no boost pressure. cause my buddy didnt even hook mine up right its just chilling there nothing hooked up so im hoping thats it


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Dan Stang in full effect.


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## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

anyone running IE rods ? how are they ?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Ie rods are the best in
The business at a very good price


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> Ie rods are the best in
> The business at a very good price


bingo


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

Egr cause boost problems?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

NO Unless you egr port in the manifold isn't cap( would not run with it not capped)! Dude its not hard to figure out why you got no boost. Does the gauge read vacuum? should be close to 20inchs if not you got a vacuum leak. does the gauge not read at all? Boost gauge hooked up right?. otherwise you got a boost leak or a bad wastegate or a bad turbo. You can check **** pretty easy man. Don't be a noob and get out there. Maybe post a couple decent pics of your setup if you really need help


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

Mark Morris said:


> Dan Stang in full effect.


as cartman would sing "in the ghettooooo"


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## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

rabbitchaser said:


> Ie rods are the best in
> The business at a very good price


Thanks


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

It isn't capped yet


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

the hole isn't capped?

So where this dude bolts to the intake manifold there is a hole?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> the hole isn't capped?
> 
> So where this dude bolts to the intake manifold there is a hole?


Just a hunch but that'd be huge leak hence causing exhaust to escape and not spool the turbo..... 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

where the threaded end is there is nothing just a hole and the wire is not there either it melted off go figure


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Imaximumcarnage said:


> where the threaded end is there is nothing just a hole and the wire is not there either it melted off go figure


Id find a different "buddy" to work on your car if i was you....:facepalm:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Imaximumcarnage said:


> where the threaded end is there is nothing just a hole and the wire is not there either it melted off go figure


Cap it off, snip #10 pin wire for ecu and then no need to worry or have the egr

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

Alright I will and see how it turns out thanks


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Imaximumcarnage said:


> Alright I will and see how it turns out thanks


Is car obd1 or obd2? Just cap it and see if it runs better, snipping the wire is only for check engine light. My car throws code for egr but car never had one, stupid c2 tune

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

It's an ob1


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## DPecnik (Oct 24, 2011)

*my setup*

98 jetta 2.0
kenetic turbo and manifold
volvo oil cooler
bmw wires to move battery to trunk
mk2 throttle body
sds full stand alone and msd ignition


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I've been collecting parts to fab up a short runner intake, just curious if it would be better to have a plenum measuring 3.25" diameter inside or 4.25"? I was looking at daskoupes and his looks to be about 3.25-3.5" just trying to get thoughts on plenum size, length will be about 13" and runners will be about 6.5" 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> I've been collecting parts to fab up a short runner intake, just curious if it would be better to have a plenum measuring 3.25" diameter inside or 4.25"? I was looking at daskoupes and his looks to be about 3.25-3.5" just trying to get thoughts on plenum size, length will be about 13" and runners will be about 6.5"
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


 Mine was 4" x 12" not including the half moons to cap off the ends.

Ended up being right at 2.5L IIRC


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> that was the old setup and a bad one...
> Its this way now
> 
> 
> ...


Is that an ABA throttle body or vr? Did you make/design your short runner? 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

I will play, work in progress, hope to have it in and tuned soon.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

i want a ram horn manifold so bad


hopefully Quentin can get them rolling soon.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Made those yourself?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

roknroko16v said:


> Is that an ABA throttle body or vr? Did you make/design your short runner?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


VR6 obd1 throttle body.

Personally I think my plenum is to small. But the car has made shy of 300whp and going 12.2 so its for sure better than stock.

my next one is going be 4 inch d shaped plenum with center mounted tb.


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

roknroko16v said:


> I've been collecting parts to fab up a short runner intake, just curious if it would be better to have a plenum measuring 3.25" diameter inside or 4.25"? I was looking at daskoupes and his looks to be about 3.25-3.5" just trying to get thoughts on plenum size, length will be about 13" and runners will be about 6.5"
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


PM me and I'll send you the program I used to calculate peak torque vs. runner length and correctly sizing plenum for power/torque vs. throttle response.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So did compression test over the holiday weekend being motor has been running 13psi for couple thousand miles now and has about 150,xxx on it. My results were 150-155 in each cylinder with double stacked gaskets, seems about right, right? Bentley says new engine is 145-189.

Second question for all you ABA turbo geniuses, I spike at 15 and holds 13 psi, would it be bad idea to install my walbro 255 pump so when I please I cab turn up boost at the track and turn it back down to daily or would it cause it to not run properly when daily driving car? 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

That sounds accurate for double stacked gaskets. 

Walbro install would be fine on really any car. All it is, is a high volume pump and loud . Your fuel pressure regulator (if working properly of course) will control the fuel volume/pressure in the rail. It wont add any more fuel to an existing build, but helps supply more fuel when needed and only when needed.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

SirSpectre said:


> That sounds accurate for double stacked gaskets.
> 
> Walbro install would be fine on really any car. All it is, is a high volume pump and loud . Your fuel pressure regulator (if working properly of course) will control the fuel volume/pressure in the rail. It wont add any more fuel to an existing build, but helps supply more fuel when needed and only when needed.


Thanks for info/knowledge, still figuring everything out as this is my first boosted car/vw that I've owned. Loving it, minus the little things I've had to change and fix and correct for the better

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Your double stacked? Put that pump in and turn it up to 20psi and love life:thumbup:

I have 3-4 years on double stacks daily at 22psi.:laugh:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> Your double stacked? Put that pump in and turn it up to 20psi and love life:thumbup:
> 
> I have 3-4 years on double stacks daily at 22psi.:laugh:


I'm still at the mercy of a factory mk3 020 trans. Also I need to get my full spool time back to 4k, it randomly has now moved to 4700 again yet everything is tight that I've checked, this happens every couple weeks it seems but is always something new lol

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

So I finished my build finally and so far it's great, spools fast with a smooth transition. I'm at 18psi as of now and my wastegate spring is rated at 8-9 psi so I'm hesitant to put it at 20psi. I have slight ping then goes away so I'm in the middle of figuring that out. I have w/m and when it's on ping stops but I want it not to ping period. I'm gonna put 100 oct to see what it does and I'll bump up to a 3.5 fpr. Its a gt2871 64hot 2 1/2 downpipe no cat. I also have the water jacket in the turbo connected to my awic for cooler water for the turbo to cool faster. I'll have pix up shortly


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

cifdig said:


> I also have the water jacket in the turbo connected to my awic for cooler water for the turbo to cool faster. I'll have pix up shortly


TBH, that's silly. All you're doing is heating up your AWIC (and losing power) for no reason, it's designed to be cooled by engine coolant for a reason... because it works just fine that way.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Na not really. I have the fresh cooled water t off to the incoming cold water before the intercooler and the hot t'd to the hot after the intercooler meaning no water from the turbo enters the intercooler it gets cooled off by the big heat exchanger and dumped in a tank. I did think it threw before I did it cause I was thinking the same as you just said . Also I have it where I can turn on the pump even when the cars off. Intercooler is cool to the touch still


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

AJmustDIE said:


> TBH, that's silly. All you're doing is heating up your AWIC (and losing power) for no reason, it's designed to be cooled by engine coolant for a reason... because it works just fine that way.


give a little less advice, it can be a good thing


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

After having a bunch of turbo vr setups and still owning one I am content with this daily pea shooter. dirt cheap fun. Yes the vr is much faster but for what it is $ wise the aba wins


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

readytosoar said:


> give a little less advice, it can be a good thing


In that case, follow what you preach. :thumbup:


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)




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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

That's actually really cool lookin' btw.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

god damnt stop posting AWIC pics or will have to get one


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Just because you said so... personal whorage.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

das just get one, 

my water tank I added helps so much, load it full of ice before a pass down the strip and the intercooler and tank are sweating condensation off of it. its pretty sweet. 


mine is going to get tore apart this winter, since no one really stepped up and wanted to buy a large chunk of it, im accumulating parts, have a ms 2.2, turbalar exhaust manfold is in the works, along with a 60-1 pt turbo or a 6262 billet not sure how big I want to go yet. and of course the bottom end will be getting goodies to, I have a set of scat rods and im saving up for coated je pistons. hopefully be done for next race season. 

so far best run this year is 13.3 at 111 mph and the car broke up 1st threw 3rd gear. still working out the bugs.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

AJmustDIE said:


> That's actually really cool lookin' btw.


Thanks. I'm running 17 psi as of now and 1,2, and some if 3rd spin. With my sc set up I dyno'd 220+ so the way this feels I would say around 260ish.


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> god damnt stop posting AWIC pics or will have to get one


X2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

cifdig said:


> Thanks. I'm running 17 psi as of now and 1,2, and some if 3rd spin. With my sc set up I dyno'd 220+ so the way this feels I would say around 260ish.


yeah wait till you hit 23 psi


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Daskoupe said:


> yeah wait till you hit 23 psi


I had it at 21psi yesterday.. Bananas!!I had to put a stronger diverter valve spring in.. Also I turned it up to 19psi but my water meth jumps it to 21psi from the cooling affect


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

AJ, did you end up getting all the bugs worked out of your setup?


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Nope lost interest chasing them, will get them sorted some time this month, the Precision is going on soon. :thumbup:


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## Filthydubber (May 7, 2007)

AJmustDIE said:


> Nope lost interest chasing them, will get them sorted some time this month, the Precision is going on soon. :thumbup:


I fell asleep watching your build AJ


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Not even really a build anymore, more like this now *"AJmustDIE's ABA Slow Problematic Too lazy to figure out problems till he is Big Turbo thread/timeline."*

Now watch Tim be a smartass and change my thread title to that.


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## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

99 mk3 jetta gl 
OBD2 aba 2.0l 
Topline Pistons 
I.E 159x21mm rods w/ arp bolts 
9:1 Headspacer 
OBD2 P&P head w/3angle valve job 
tt268/260 cam 
42lb inj w/ C2 stage 2 software 
3in Maf and Godspeed FMIC setup 
Mk4 upper and lower intake 
02a Tranny 

This is my current build/setup now just looking for insight on which turbo to get ... my hp goal is anything over 300... what would you guys recommend ?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Zeya12 said:


> 99 mk3 jetta gl
> OBD2 aba 2.0l
> Topline Pistons
> I.E 159x21mm rods w/ arp bolts
> ...


 well with that C2 software you're pretty much limited to 280~300whp. I'd suggest talking with United Motorsports on some 630cc software. 

Also for a turbo...if you're keeping on a budget..i SWEAR BY the HOLSET HX35


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## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> well with that C2 software you're pretty much limited to 280~300whp. I'd suggest talking with United Motorsports on some 630cc software.
> 
> Also for a turbo...if you're keeping on a budget..i SWEAR BY the HOLSET HX35


 Picked up the software and inj for a steal so that's why I grabbed and thanks I will def look into it ... What clutch would you recommend that will hold up no problem


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Been beating the **** out of my SouthBend Stg2 "Daily" for nearly 2 years now. (ABA Turbo/02a Trans)


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Zeya12 said:


> Picked up the software and inj for a steal so that's why I grabbed and thanks I will def look into it ... What clutch would you recommend that will hold up no problem


 I'm running unsprung 6 puck spec stage 3 for about 8k miles so far. Even tried my luck at drag strip couple times for fun being I never dis and its holding strong

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

appreciate the feedback guys thanks :thumbup:


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Never use anything but oem distributor caps. I have been chasing a sputter under load for 4 days with 2 new dis caps. So I finally threw the old one back in and bingo running perfect. Turns out the little push pin in the middle Inside the cap doesn't contact good enough causing misfire like symptoms. Smfh


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

Zeya12 said:


> This is my current build/setup now just looking for insight on which turbo to get ... my hp goal is anything over 300... what would you guys recommend ?


 
A short runner intake will also help you reach your goal. 

Why are you running aftermarket pistons and a gasket spacer?


----------



## mshapiro (Jan 30, 2005)

anyone have EVAP still with their Turbo kits?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

any one have any eip turbo kit pics?


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## Zeya12 (May 24, 2011)

The Rice Cooker said:


> A short runner intake will also help you reach your goal.
> 
> Why are you running aftermarket pistons and a gasket spacer?


 Head spacer will lower my compression and the pistons are oem specs for my motor but are forged and lighter than the stock ones


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

So have you guys seen what Kevin Black has done with stock obd1 vr rods, he is pushing 48 psi and making almost 800 hp je pistons stock rods and arp rod bolts, very impressive. Standalone is coming this winter and it will be lugtronics with Kevin tuning it


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Yep that's my friend Tim's car. Small f'n world.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> So have you guys seen what Kevin Black has done with stock obd1 vr rods, he is pushing 48 psi and making almost 800 hp je pistons stock rods and arp rod bolts, very impressive.


 Making over 800 whp.  

Kevin tunes my ABA turbo on Lugtronic, and it makes pretty decent power. You will be extremely pleased.


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

With ARP's installed "the wrong way" too. :laugh:


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

rabbitchaser said:


> So have you guys seen what Kevin Black has done with stock obd1 vr rods, he is pushing 48 psi and making almost 800 hp je pistons stock rods and arp rod bolts, very impressive. Standalone is coming this winter and it will be lugtronics with Kevin tuning it


 800hp on an ABA? I wasn't aware VR rods fit our ABA's....


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

syncrogti said:


> 800hp on an ABA? I wasn't aware VR rods fit our ABA's....


 No, that is on a 12V VR6.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

mark what are the specs on yours just wondering, 

im sure i will be pleased, i just wonder what he can do on stock rods in a aba ????? 

some day i hope to be around 600 whp with a 8valve, now i know its a ton of work and money but over time i hope to be there and be close if not a 9sec car.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

http://lugtronic.com/ 

Look under customers, Mark Morris for a basic overview. 

Made a few changes since then-- some headwork, Precision 5862 and a Garrett 24x12x3.5" intercooler. 

Last time on the dyno car made juist over 400 whp with the 60-1, spinning the tires. We stood on the door sills and the next pull smoked the clutch. Haven't had a chance to crank the boost with the new turbo. Haven't been able to test cams like I have been wanting to either. Gotta fix the clutch and freshen the bottom end. Getting some blowby after pounding on it for the last few years. 

Stock ABA rods are not as beefy as a 12V, but the stock pistons are the first thing to go in an ABA. Right around 300 wtq they start ripping out the pin boss. 

600 whp is definately possible, just gonna take a good combination of parts.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Mark ****ing quit it. I dont need to spend anymore money right now and your making hard!!!:laugh:


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)




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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Few questions and maybe I'm being paranoid (most likely).... its normal to hit full boost in say 2nd gear at like 4600-4700 but then have full boost about 4100 in 5th gear right? Second question is how much vacuum is about normal at idle? On cold starts its about 13 and once warmed up its about 15

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

roknroko16v said:


> Few questions and maybe I'm being paranoid (most likely).... its normal to hit full boost in say 2nd gear at like 4600-4700 but then have full boost about 4100 in 5th gear right? Second question is how much vacuum is about normal at idle? On cold starts its about 13 and once warmed up its about 15
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


On a OEM cam 8v head 13-15 at idle is correct.
you should be able to hit full boost earlier in the higher gears due to you are already moving a lot of exhaust gasses before you shift into 5th gear.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

REPOMAN said:


> On a OEM cam 8v head 13-15 at idle is correct.
> you should be able to hit full boost earlier in the higher gears due to you are already moving a lot of exhaust gasses before you shift into 5th gear.


I'm running a straight 268 Techtonics cam

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

This is the vacuum created between the throttle plate and the intake valves. Normal manifold vacuum on an OEM 16v VW engine at idle speed is around 18 to 20 inches. 
I use the 268's on a 16v head with a short runner and 80mm T/B I see 60in hg at idle.
I also have 83.5mm bores this will create more vacuum. Altitude and Compression ratio will also have an effect on how much vacuum you will get.

When above sea level all readings will drop one division per each 1,000 feet of altitude above sea level. Thus a reading of 20 inches of vacuum at sea level would drop to 19 inches at 1,000 feet, 18 inches at 2,000 feet, etc. All readings are taken at idle except as noted. 

warmed up with the engine still at idle, advance or retard the ignition until the highest steady vacuum reading is obtained. Then retard the timing until the vacuum gauge reading drops slightly, approximately one half to one inch. In some cases, you may need to retard the timing up to two inches to prevent pre-igniton (pinging).


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

mark how do you like the 5862 I have emailed kevin a bit and he suggested at 6262 with a t4 exhaust housing to achieve the 600 mark that I hope to hit in the next couple years, 

I was thinking of a 60-1 or a 5862 next after my t3t4.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> mark how do you like the 5862 I have emailed kevin a bit and he suggested at 6262 with a t4 exhaust housing to achieve the 600 mark that I hope to hit in the next couple years,
> 
> I was thinking of a 60-1 or a 5862 next after my t3t4.


 i dont see the 58 hitting 600. Def go for the 6262. PERIOD.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

my vacuum with an at 270 is always 20 inches.. But my ISV might have something to do with that


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> mark how do you like the 5862 I have emailed kevin a bit and he suggested at 6262 with a t4 exhaust housing to achieve the 600 mark that I hope to hit in the next couple years,
> 
> I was thinking of a 60-1 or a 5862 next after my t3t4.


I can't answer that yet, as my bottom end was losing ring seal and the clutch was slipping. It will work fine for my car I believe, but I chose it based on a 500ish whp goal for what I am aiming to do with the car. I still have a lot of cam testing to do, and that will have a big effect on the final numbers and overall performance.

What do you want to do with your car and what do you want to accomplish (besides 600 whp)?

If you really want to make 600 whp, a 6262 is your best bet. I wouldn't buy a 60-1 new, as there are more modern and better performing options out there now. I got mine used and it was a budget build at the time. A 5858 would be a killer street turbo for a crossflow. 

To make power you need to focus on the manifolds, head, and cam selection. Good luck! :beer:


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> my vacuum with an at 270 is always 20 inches.. But my ISV might have something to do with that


I still have my isv in place, or is yours different? I know according to Collin at Techtonics the straight 268 cam has about 5°-6° of overlap, I'm sure that plays a factor? 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

So the set up I'm looking at is 3mm over valves both intake and exhaust Cnc ported head I'm running techtonics 276 Turbo cam for now.lugtronics,6262 t4 .81 exhaust housing hoping to get one of quintens equal length manifolds tuned on e85 dual fuel pumps and what ever injector size I need and a calculated long runner manifold, car is a drag car hoping to some day have it in the 9s


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

I'm not sure you can fit +3mm with each valve. If so, I would be a little concerned about seat life. I would go a little more conservative. Who is doing the head?

E85 will help spool that turbo and make more power over gas-- I plan to switch over whenever I start messing with the car again. Kevin will advise you on injectors, but I would prolly go straight to ID 2000's. 

276 will be a good place to start-- you will end up going bigger I believe.

9's is a good goal. :thumbup:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

im not sure on the head yet i have started shopping around, it might get shipped to california for some work, i figure i will probably be on a custom ground cam for the engine by the end of it. 

you think at the 600hp range i might need a gurdle in the bottom end to keep the block together?


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

A girdle is nice insurance, but I don't think you have to have one for 600 hp.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

it will probably get one with how much force will be in there


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_125&products_id=131

that's the valve set up im wanting to run


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Ryan this is what 42mm intake 37mm exhaust looks like on a 8V. I had a solid lifter JH head done
back in the day. Honestly if you are going to do a bigger turbo and have to make an intake manifold and exhaust you seriously should think of going 16v instead. I'm Just Saying.



























Increasing the Ports and increased valve size w/5 angle grind will make more power on a 8v head 
but the 16v head has almost twice the volume. 
You are going to have Volume which means more power across the entire power band. the greatest thing about Turbo engines is you can dial in as much Velocity as you can fuel.
More working gases moving threw the combustion chamber more power. The faster you move it threw the more top end WHP you make. 

















The shape of the port is probably the most critical factor in how much power a given engine can produce and more importantly where in the rpm band does the power start and peters out. Remember , the higher intake manifold pressure developed by a turbo leads to higher velocity flow into the combustion chamber. In my own experience I have found that getting the ports to flow at low valve lift seems to go hand in hand with a broad torque band and that translates into better drivability.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

main goal is to push the 8 valve to the limit I just have the drive to make big power with the aba


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I can respect that. I did it 10 years ago. 
But if you want to make 600whp you will get there quicker with less psi on a multiple valve head.
EXAMPLE
8v max ported head and valves 192cfm x 2 atmosphere = 384WHP
16v Max ported head and valves 250cfm x 2 atmosphere = 500whp

BTW 
my man Jerry Rynolds made that beautiful 8v and 16v head pictured above.
:beer::beer:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

that's good to know I will need someone to do the head work soon, I will need the most I can get out of it that I can get


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So due to a possible new engine coming in to my life my whole set up might be for sale. :laugh:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

What's the new engine das


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> What's the new engine das


r32 motor :laugh: But it looks like it wont happen


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Too bad the 3.2L isn't panning out for you. That would be an interesting turbo build to follow


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

REPO, are your flow numbers from a flowbench? 

Do you convert from CFM to HP by using stoic fuel ratio, internal energy of fuel? What fuel are you basing your HP number off of, gasoline?


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

REPOMAN said:


> I can respect that. I did it 10 years ago.
> But if you want to make 600whp you will get there quicker with less psi on a multiple valve head.
> *EXAMPLE*
> 8v max ported head and valves 192cfm x 2 atmosphere = 384WHP
> ...


I am just giving an EXAMPLE to make it easy to understand.
These numbers are general number to show connection of how much CFM that can be moved threw the combustion chamber = more whp.
If you wan the actual flow number on a OEM head I am sure someone can wiki that info.
as for the heads pictured above those are 10 years ago and sold.


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## mschulte (Jul 14, 2002)

my old car made 344 ft lbs of torque with a ported 16v head



t04 w/comp wheel from GT35R (turbocharging dynamics stage 3)
odb1 aba stock bottom end
034ic
custom "ramhorn" exhaust manifold
custom intake manifold
ported 16v head
3" turboback


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

mschulte said:


> my old car made 344 ft lbs of torque
> 
> odb1 aba stock bottom end


That's riding the razors edge. :laugh:


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

made some changes. Painting the car and got carried away. Added t3 super 60 ball bearing with a stage 2 wheel, 276 cam, different plumbing. Could not stand in the sun any longer so catch can setup will have to wait a day.



















Stock cr old obd1 15 psi. I like the super 60 much better for what it is. its a little baby but the car is fun for a daily


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I want/need a damn short runner :banghead:


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

I agree with 16 valve head statements. I also have a turbo 16 valve, and vr6. The vr is the easiest to get to the fastest of the three, but the 16 valve is much easier to work on. The aba is Dirt cheap and cane be beat all day every day and replaced for 100$.


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

REPOMAN said:


> I am just giving an EXAMPLE to make it easy to understand.
> These numbers are general number to show connection of how much CFM that can be moved threw the combustion chamber = more whp.
> If you wan the actual flow number on a OEM head I am sure someone can wiki that info.
> as for the heads pictured above those are 10 years ago and sold.


Not calling you out, just trying to learn how its done so I can be accurate. Thanks.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

syncrogti said:


> Not calling you out, just trying to learn how its done so I can be accurate. Thanks.


That's cool. I have detailed pics of the head work on the 8V stuff. A G60 head hyd head and a 2 JH solid lifter heads with big port and valve work.

I believe it was 192cfm @ 0.050. Which is a ton for an 8v. I only made 227whp and 250WTQ on the 
ABA lysholm S/C on DIGIFANT 1 which is a miracle in it's self. 
Ran good managed a 13.7 1/4 full interior/body on slicks.

The seat on this head are blended together. 42mm intake 37mm exhaust


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

LOL, repoman you know when its that's close to the 6mm allen there is NO more to go.... nice


Dan


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

When I got my head work I opted for 1mm larger intake and exhuast with the stem 1mm smaller . Don't remember my flow bench results but the next time my heads off ill get it tested. Btw had some fun with a friends srt-8 and was ahead by 1 car with me on 18 psi. Well it set at 17psi but the water meth jumps it up


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Maybe they should start a Sticky Thread and call it HEAD.
post pics of P&P heads


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## mk21.8Tjetta (Jun 3, 2002)

...mmm, might not be the best name to call a thread ^^^


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well I just picked up a gt35r from a friend of mine for so little I could not turn it down, now this is not my exact turbo I wanted but it will give me something to bolt to my new manifold im having built, also picked up a 44mm wastegate


and just put a bid in on a 5 gallon fuel cell that is attached to a five gallon water tank for my intercooler. 

hoping I can buy my pistons and rods later this week also just have to see how my check looks.


----------



## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

mk21.8Tjetta said:


> ...mmm, might not be the best name to call a thread ^^^


LOL how about "Head, give me your best shot" :laugh:


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> just put a bid in on a 5 gallon fuel cell that is attached to a five gallon water tank for my intercooler.


Could you explain what you plan to do for the simple minded in this room? I'm a little confused.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

its one unit, one side will be the water for my air to water intercooler, I have a 2.5 gallon tank in the passanger floor board now

and of course the other with be the fuel cell, both will be mounted in rear of the car on a new aluminum plate after I cut the floor of the car out and plate it. 


engine will hopefully get major overhaul this winter, hoping to have it making 600 whp and be a high 9 second drag car by next year im just started collecting parts and saving money for the build.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-fuel-cell-and-water-resevoir-/330947364329

there is what im looking at to give a visual.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

That looks good. remember good water intercooling comes from how much water you MOVE threw the system not how much the system holds.

the GT35R is a big turbo wouldn't be my choice for a 8v head but it will make big HP.
If you need any help give me a call I am local. Maybe we will see you at the track on the 20th.

:beer::beer:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

oh don you will see me at the track for sure, this build will be over the winter there is no way im tearing the car down now. 


35r was not my first choice but it fell in my lap a 6262 is still #1 on my list and if the 35r does not do what I want it to do it will get tossed for the 6262


oh and I did not get the reservoir it ended early this morning so someone on the east coast got it. 

so im looking at something else, like this and modify the top so I can pour fuel in it and use it as a fuel cell with pumps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-B...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4174b85ca3&vxp=mtr


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

oh and a bigger water to air pump is in the works already.


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> oh don you will see me at the track for sure, this build will be over the winter there is no way im tearing the car down now.
> 
> 
> 35r was not my first choice but it fell in my lap a 6262 is still #1 on my list and if the 35r does not do what I want it to do it will get tossed for the 6262
> ...


That looks real nice. For fuel it is great as for 
Water those pumps won't work for water and We Ryan and I can save you a lot of money on a good setup. He Ryan can fab anything for a little $$ and the material. 

If you are not happy with the 35R and decide to go 6262 I would be interested in the 35R for a new 16v build.


So the best way to move a lot of water in a water to air setup is target 30 GPM. use 2" feed lines 
and 2 15GPM 8-15 amp pumps. this will get you way below Ambient temps at 30+ PSI.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

ya that will be my fuel set up and i will just keep my other tank i have for water, and hook bigger pumps to it.


----------



## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> its one unit, one side will be the water for my air to water intercooler, I have a 2.5 gallon tank in the passanger floor board now
> 
> and of course the other with be the fuel cell, both will be mounted in rear of the car on a new aluminum plate after I cut the floor of the car out and plate it.
> 
> ...


Thank you for explaining that :thumbup: 

Looks tha bizniz


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

fastrabbit said:


> -stock compression
> -42lb injectors
> -C2 42lb software
> -stock clutch+Trans lightweight flywheel
> ...


----------



## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

I like it, it looks clean and simple and I'm sure its a blast to drive with instant throttle response. Only thing that I would do is spacing the charge pipe coming from the turbo so it isn't in direct contact with the (hot) valve cover.

Also is always a good idea to run a cai on non-intercooled setups to help lower the intake air temperature :thumbup:


----------



## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

It Got the job done for 6 month. Then I redid everything


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

fastrabbit said:


> It Got the job done for 6 month. Then I redid everything


I mean, is the air being too hot the only reason for not running it all the time? I really like how neat/ simple this is.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> I mean, is the air being too hot the only reason for not running it all the time? I really like how neat/ simple this is.


Only thing I dont like on that setup, is the lack of head studs (fine at 8psi) and the 2.25 exhaust. I'd upgrade that to 2.5" asap, and once you up that boost, get head studs asap!!


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Running slightly lean when I atempt 21psi. Would moving up to a
3.5 bar or 4 bar do the trick. I know the u.m 440 softwear is tuned with a
3bar so I guess my question is would it be a good idea to go up


----------



## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> fastrabbit said:
> 
> 
> > -stock compression
> ...


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

a few of us have found anything over 20 psi will need a 4 bAR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, I AM RUNNING ONE AT 24PSI AND MY FUEL STAYS RIGHT WERE ITS NEEDS TO BE. I ALSO JUST HAD MY INJECTORS FULLY CLEANED AND FLOWED THAT GAVE ME SOME MORE FUEL TO.


----------



## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

rabbitchaser said:


> a few of us have found anything over 20 psi will need a 4 bAR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, I AM RUNNING ONE AT 24PSI AND MY FUEL STAYS RIGHT WERE ITS NEEDS TO BE. I ALSO JUST HAD MY INJECTORS FULLY CLEANED AND FLOWED THAT GAVE ME SOME MORE FUEL TO.


Thanks bro ill pick one up tomorrow throw it on and log a run or too


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## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

new set up

42lb injectors 
c2 chip
arp head studs
head gasket spacer
hx35 turbo
Twin scroll manifold
Twin tail mvs wastegates
short runner intake manifold
3in downpipe
3in exhaust no cat, no res, single borla
TT adj timing gear
Delta cam
lightweight flyweel
Vr6 clutch
02a with diff and bolt kit
dei turbo blanket
volvo oil cooler 
ross fuel rail 

everything built by myself


----------



## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

Very Nice. :thumbup:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

clean


----------



## steven12345 (Jul 18, 2006)

:thumbup:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Sweet, :thumbup:


----------



## Über_Golf1 (Jul 15, 2013)

:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Über_Golf1 (Jul 15, 2013)

Where do you get those ITB's?


----------



## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

fastrabbit said:


> new set up
> 
> 42lb injectors
> c2 chip
> ...




:thumbup::thumbup: solid progress


----------



## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

thanks everyone

here's the latest pics I have




















Crazy twin scroll manifold

this was taken when I was swaping the o2A in


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

love it man. If I do any more engine stuff to my jetta I'll be going twin scroll.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Here is mine, almost complete.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> mark what are the specs on yours just wondering,
> 
> im sure i will be pleased, i just wonder what he can do on stock rods in a aba ?????
> 
> some day i hope to be around 600 whp with a 8valve, now i know its a ton of work and money but over time i hope to be there and be close if not a 9sec car.


Are we going to have a Ryan vs Ryan showdown next year?
Ryan Jones is building a new 16v T setup in his rabbit I know that will be a good match up for you.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

don hoping so, mine is moving along if all works ut it should be ready.


----------



## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Any 2.0 turbo guys meeting at h20?


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Let us know if you need anything.
Oct 6th is the last race of the year. 
2014 Test and Tune begins in March and first events are in April.
:beer::beer:


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

cifdig said:


> Any 2.0 turbo guys meeting at h20?


Im sure you'll meet a lot of aba turbo guys. but im bringing 3 haha


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

cifdig said:


> Any 2.0 turbo guys meeting at h20?


would love to but she's in 1000 pieces in the garage right now. swapping motor from jetta into my recently retired daily driver golf.. will have mk6 gti down there


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## Conejo Negro (Apr 3, 2007)

Should be running by H20


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

looks great:thumbup:


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Conejo ***** said:


> Should be running by H20


What size IC piping?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well its the end of the race season the gti is in the garage getting tore down for bigger and better things, i will be starting a build thread here in a few weeks when i start to get parts back from machining and what not. 

car will be completely diffrent next year the gti is going away as i picked up a clean coupe shell that is in process of role cage and other things to lighten it. 


so my whole set up minus w/a intercooler are up for sale i have posted in the forced induction classifieds, 

this car was able to go 12.5 at 116mph this year, i was not able to catch das for 1/4 mile time as he set the bar pretty high.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

i'll be out in nov for an 11 sec hopefully
:thumbup:


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## GotJetta98 (Sep 27, 2013)

any one i cali pulling this off?with a good amount of power and still street legal


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Guys turbo question here, Ive got a buddy who works over at Dodge and he has a HOLSET H1C he said he would sell me cheap. Im unfamiliar with this as all ive seen on here is the HX35? Any ideas/advice?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

HC1 is a HUGE turbo. Its meant for turbo Diesel V8s. That little ABA would never spool it.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

H1C with cut down exhaust housing is the biz homie!

But if your buying holset, hx,h7 are what you want. Also only run those if your aim for big numbers
Tons of other turbos will make 220whp with alot better spool.

IF you plan on hitting 25+ psi, the holset is real nice.:thumbup:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Well im at 20psi with my tiny garret T3 right now, Just figured i could change it out for something that would make similar power with less boost.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Less boost on any holset isnt good. They come out running 18 psi stock. I know Quintin ran 30+ psi on his hx35 and made great power. If you want something bigger than a t3 your next step is t3/t4


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## Conejo Negro (Apr 3, 2007)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> What size IC piping?


2.25 inch

Full parts list

Rebuilt OBD1 ABA Head
TT 8v Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft (268/260 - Street/Sport)
TT Heavy-Duty Valve Springs for 8V
TT Adjustable Cam Gear
Short runner intake manifold 
VR6 Throttle body 
CX racing exhaust manifold 
Custom Bar & plate intercooler core
BBM 2.0L Low Compression Metal Head Gasket (ABA)
Garret T3/Super 60 turbo (rebuilt)
Custom 2.5 downpipe
TT 2.5 Turbo Cat-back exhaust
ARP Head Studs
Innovative LM-1 Wideband 
Defi Boost gauge
Profec Type S Electronic boost controller
Dash mount gauge pod
Lugtronic PNP Standalone ECU
BMW 440 injectors
Spec Stage 3 clutch kit
BBM Fuel rail with A/N fittings
Replacement gas tank
Replacement Radiator
Relocated battery to hatch and replaced with 11lb braille 
Custom GM bar and plate tranny cooler installed as oil cooler in lower from grills

Waiting to go to Dyno for a E85 tune :laugh:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Your going to need bigger injectors for the e85 to get some power out of that thing o was running 440s on race fuel at 4 bar on a t3t4 to make right around 300 whp


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Conejo ***** said:


> 2.25 inch
> 
> Full parts list
> 
> ...


So the mods that will make the biggest impact (since you're doing lugtronic) are going to be a tubular exhaust manifold, 3" exhaust, TT wide lobe 276 cam, and bigger injectors with an inline fuel pump. You have a pretty good base, but your exhaust manifold, exhaust size, cam, and injectors are going to hold you up....

When you get a chance I'd scrap that spec clutch too. I was at almost 300whp when it exploded AT h2o. I haven't seen too many ABA guys have good luck with that clutch, but for some reason 1.8T guys can run it all day long. Hopefully with your car being so much lighter it'll hold.

What's your goal for this car? As stated before you'll need bigger injectors to run E85 and make over 300whp (unless you're at 5 bar). I'd keep your first tune on pump gas until you get settled with where you want the car power-wise. FYI for reference 260whp will get you mid 11s in a mk1 full interior all day long.


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## Conejo Negro (Apr 3, 2007)

Does anyone make tubular manifolds for the aba?

The goal is a solid 300whp


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Conejo ***** said:


> Does anyone make tubular manifolds for the aba?
> 
> The goal is a solid 300whp


Yes, zornig on here makes em....They are around $800 but it will be a LOT easier to make 300whp while keeping good spool time. If you're only going for 300whp, I would recommend against this mod. Your money is better spent elsewhere....like on a solid journal bearing Precision turbo or similar T4/T04E. That super 60 isn't going to get you to 300whp very easily if at all.

The other mods I mentioned however are going to be nearly essential for making 300 without having to run 28psi to get there.....and you won't need injectors for that goal either. Just run 5 bar and an inline pump. You don't need E85 to make that goal though, but if you did you're gonna want more duty cycle available.

Hope that helps.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So my factory fuel pump started to die on me, got a replacement from a friend dn car pulls a lot better but now under full throttle/boost my afr's are anywhere from 10-10.6 on my wideband. 
Current setup:
Obd1 engine/car
C2 low compression 42# file
Pte 57 trim t3/t4
Head spacer
Kinetics piping, manifold & 2.5" do
Bosch 42# green tops
13psi

Any insight to car running so rich? No codes or cel, just scanned car. Cruising and idle my Afr is perfect at 14.2-15.3

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> Less boost on any holset isnt good. They come out running 18 psi stock. I know Quintin ran 30+ psi on his hx35 and made great power. If you want something bigger than a t3 your next step is t3/t4


Ive decided to give the HY35 a shot.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

13psi lol. The 42 program is for 18 plus psi


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Ive decided to give the HY35 a shot.


you're going to love that thing at 22psi :thumbup:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Well it ran great month ago but then pump crapped out. Now I'm rebuilding a spare bottles end to swap in with head studs and an in line pump so I can crank it to 22

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> you're going to love that thing at 22psi :thumbup:


I hope so! 22psi on it wont exceed my fueling will it? I want to stay under the recommended 300 horse by C2.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well my whole turbo kit sold the other day, so im turbo less 


other than the pte 6262 t4 housing that I just bought new in box that will be headed my way soon. 


engine is out of the car and headed to the machine shop. :laugh: long long road to go but it has started.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I am at 23-30 psi lol

I have a wablro in line, 4 bar, and single port meth. Just watch the Afr.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

PERFECT! What turbo are you running now?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

If anyone needs anything I will be parting the attack rabbit in order to make it even crazier. Head and intake manifold, trans with MK1 mount set-up and clutch/quaife, and turbo/exhaust manifold/DP/exhaust.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

TIGninja said:


> If anyone needs anything I will be parting the attack rabbit in order to make it even crazier. Head and intake manifold, trans with MK1 mount set-up and clutch/quaife, and turbo/exhaust manifold/DP/exhaust.


What turbo manifold? Ive been hunting forever for a kinetic manifold or something similar to fit a larger framed turbo.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> PERFECT! What turbo are you running now?


its a 60 trim from G pop shop. Its a garrett t3/t4 with better stuff inside.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> What turbo manifold? Ive been hunting forever for a kinetic manifold or something similar to fit a larger framed turbo.


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4829923-The-super-slappy-attack-rabbit.


----------



## Conejo Negro (Apr 3, 2007)

Ugh.. my spec clutch started slipping on high boost  

bleh 3 months old and its already slipping on roll on power in 4th :banghead:


ANy recommendations on a better setup?


----------



## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Southbend.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Holset Hy35w purchased..... let the fun begin! Any idea of where 15psi will put me? I hope it'll with with a kinetic manifold.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

15 psi should be around 230ish whp

I would not worrry to much about your manifold. I have a ****ty team psi one that we modified for an external wastegate. As you know I make 300 whp and trap over 115 lol


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

In that case i can run more boost that that  I havent been able to source a used kinetic manifold but there is a guy im talking to now whos selling an SPA manifold. I think i may pick it up but what do I do about a wastegate? I cant seem to find any information other than running the SPA 36mm gate.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

For what its worth get a team psi manifold. Find a machine shop. Have em mill it for a 38mm wastegate flange.:thumbup:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Team PSI is dead, i cant find a manifold anywhere.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

:thumbup:


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## GTDi89 (Oct 9, 2010)

Could I get Catch can setup ideas? I want to recirculate it into my inlet pipe without all the oil.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Removed the 5857 due to oil out exhaust again. installed the .57trim t3t4. been driving like that for a couple weeks. got invited to a dyno day a few miles from home. first time on rollers ever, car made [email protected]/259.9f[email protected] was pretty stoked. about 17 psi, water meth, premium pump, fully built engine with old sds system. was told car is fat on the top end, but thats fine with me, good to know im driving around with close to 300..dyno is as close as the local beer store....ruh row.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Got my Holset HY35w in :thumbup:



The 5-bolt downpipe flange is missing, anyone know if a generic 5-bolt flange will bolt up?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Get a vband setup. Also I always go ebay for flanges lol


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Im told the 5 bolt flange is specific to Holset and i cant buy a generic one?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Im told the 5 bolt flange is specific to Holset and i cant buy a generic one?


Have someone weld the V band on it.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

No I get that, i mean the 5-bolt flange itself i dont have.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> No I get that, i mean the 5-bolt flange itself i dont have.


Can I see of pic of the exhaust outlet and also are you internal or external wastegate currently?


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> Can I see of pic of the exhaust outlet and also are you internal or external wastegate currently?


I'll snap a picture tomorrow but the internal wastegate is currently seized shut which is good being im going to have it welded shut; i want to run my tial 38mm external.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> Can I see of pic of the exhaust outlet and also are you internal or external wastegate currently?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


>


have somebody weld the gate shut. Then get a 3 inch v band. Weld that directly to the housing. Trim piece of 1/8 stainless to cover the rest.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I can do that! :laugh: Much cheaper thanks


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## johnt2k7 (Jan 20, 2013)

to weld to that cast housing you will have to find some one who knows what they are doing and properly pre heat the housing and get good penitratuion or it will crack and fall off fairly soon after a few heat cycles. 

I have a original Holset 5 bolt flange to vband if you want it ? it just sitting on a shelf since i put a BEP .70 A/R on my HX35 

i can sand blast it and mail it to you for prolly less then $15 ?


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

If its a 3" v-band then done deal PM me for payment information.


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## johnt2k7 (Jan 20, 2013)

its a factory 2.5 vband 


























only other option would be to buy a flange but it would still only be a 2.5 opening and you could port it and weld a 3" section of pipe then a vband and you would probably have to use socket head cap screws to fasten it because it would be so close 

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalo...let-flange-wg-blocked-3-8-stainless-2305.html


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Hi folks, going to be putting together a turbocharged aba this winter out of parts I have around. I recently purchased a c1 stage 1 tune to go with the 32 lbs injectors I already have. I'm going to be running a To04 off of a volvo 850. The hardware end of things doesn't concern me so much as the tune. 
What I'm wondering is how flexible the stage 1 tune is. I'm obviously not looking to get huge dyno numbers but I'm wondering how the tune will react if I throw 268/262 cam at it, and also how it would react to not having a cat. Will the slight loss in vaccume be enough to throw the tune off? And will the lack of a cat really bother it? I'm up in the great white north where emmissions are still an afterthought so there is no legal issues to deal with. I'm planning on running a small IC to keep things cool, and I do have a wideband I could check on things with once installed. Just wondering what others have to say before I get started.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

The C2 chips are all pretty good some people have great luck others have issues(sorta like anythiing nowadays). You are doing it right with a wideband. The cam would really be affected by the chip anyways.


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Yeah, I was just wondering how sensative the tunes are. I know it's a very mild cam and that it won't really increase flow any more then a mild port job. I figure the IC just adds a bit of added safety by keeping my temps down. More curious as to how the ECU is going to react to the lack of a second o2, or having a second 02 that's reading the same as the first.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

The rear 02 is just a monitor for the cat
I think the C2 tune gets rid of that one though


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

johnt2k7 said:


> its a factory 2.5 vband
> 
> only other option would be to buy a flange but it would still only be a 2.5 opening and you could port it and weld a 3" section of pipe then a vband and you would probably have to use socket head cap screws to fasten it because it would be so close
> 
> http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalo...let-flange-wg-blocked-3-8-stainless-2305.html


Pm sent


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## erickemmerer (Oct 10, 2009)

*mk2 aba t*

so i was wondering if i could get some help i have a mk2 golf running obd2 aba with 268 cam and chip from techtonics, mk4 intake, mk4 injectors, non intercooled, blaster2 coil, bkr7e plugs gapped to .22, stock maf 4 bar fpr from eurosport and single intank walboro 255 pump. im running a airesearch t3/gt28 turbo i dont know the trim she spools fast as ****. but whenever im in boost i can hold 2-4 psi all day no problems i can hit 11psi no issue but if i hold boost and bring to 6000 rpm she starts to buck and stutter only when i hold boost above 4psi for more than a second or two and she will eventually clear out and than start bucking again she runs fine out of boost to redline if you have any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. im running out of ideas besides getting bigger injectors and c2 software but i told my cam tune would support up to 10 psi. i already tried to run her at 6psi and probem still occured


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

erickemmerer said:


> mk4 injectors, non intercooled, blaster2 coil, stock maf


Those are all issues,

Get a #24 injector at least for 10 psi. Also a Vr6 maf is required. Intercooler of any sort would help. A stock OEM coil is way better than anything aftermarket.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> A stock OEM coil is way better than anything aftermarket.


what?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I'd definitely swap out injectors and tune and maf housing to start. I'd never run a n/a file tune with forced induction, that's me personally though

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## erickemmerer (Oct 10, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> Those are all issues,
> 
> Get a #24 injector at least for 10 psi. Also a Vr6 maf is required. Intercooler of any sort would help. A stock OEM coil is way better than anything aftermarket.


will vr6 maf be supported by my techtonics tune? as well as the injectors? okay my intake temps at hottest are at 82 degrees i was monitoring them while sitting in stand still traffic lol


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## erickemmerer (Oct 10, 2009)

*mk2 aba t*



Daskoupe said:


> Those are all issues,
> 
> Get a #24 injector at least for 10 psi. Also a Vr6 maf is required. Intercooler of any sort would help. A stock OEM coil is way better than anything aftermarket.





will the tectonics cam chip support vr6 maf and #24 injectors?


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## erickemmerer (Oct 10, 2009)

*mk2 aba t*



Daskoupe said:


> Those are all issues,
> 
> Get a #24 injector at least for 10 psi. Also a Vr6 maf is required. Intercooler of any sort would help. A stock OEM coil is way better than anything aftermarket.





will the tectonics cam chip support vr6 maf and #24 injectors? also my intake temps sitting in traffic only max out at 87 degrees thats why im still nonintercooled


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Q tell me for a factory ecu aba What coil is better than a beru. And the obd1 /obd2 ecus are pretty adaptive. I ran #30s, vr maf and a cam with stock ecu. can made 175 whp at 9 s psi.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

For those of us on Stage 2 C2 tune.... anyone know why our cars are SO much faster at 3/4 throttle than full throttle? Driving me nuts.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> For those of us on Stage 2 C2 tune.... anyone know why our cars are SO much faster at 3/4 throttle than full throttle? Driving me nuts.



Not likely faster, but more torque. The Air speed hits a sweet spot for velocity. Faster air = more torque. I noticed this on my NA 8v as well.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

No i mean measurably, every weekend i'll toy with my buddy in his VR, when i pull him 3/4 throttle i annihilate him, when i pull him full throttle i just kinda....pull away make sense? I remember a few years back people spoke of this I just cant seem to find the thread where it was explained.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I'm wondering about your TPS. No experience had with this chip though.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

My VRT was the same way.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

mine is faster at 3/4 mainly cause that is the edge of traction lol. Anything over 70 I am 100% down with my afr staying at 12.1 at 22psi.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> mine is faster at 3/4 mainly cause that is the edge of traction lol. Anything over 70 I am 100% down with my afr staying at 12.1 at 22psi.


Thats just it even at 19-20psi im rock on at 12.2afr but its nothing like it is at 3/4 throttle but same afr..... im assuming timing is being pulled but not sure why. It runs flawlessly its just something i noticed that it runs EVEN better at 3/4 throttle.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I run a TT knock sensor bushing


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> I run a TT knock sensor bushing


 educate me on this


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> I run a TT knock sensor bushing


 educate me on this


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Basically dampens any excessive engine noise to prevent timing adjustment. I run similar piece that I machined myself out of aluminum

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Makes sense being i have solid engine mounts + stiff suspension. Im buying a set now


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> educate me on this


You can call them and get it separate from the chip it comes with. Its for the old digifant 2 system haha.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Daskoupe said:


> You can call them and get it separate from the chip it comes with. Its for the old digifant 2 system haha.


That's crazy I notice the same that if I stop the gas pedal right befor I bottom out it has a bit more tq. Isn't the an adjustable plastic stopper there . Btw blew my lower front seals out running 21 psi last week so I changed them all out plus a new timing belt. I can tell that it's backing the timing down cause of fuel issues but when I put a 4bar in it doesn't run as good any suggestions


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 15 psi should be around 230ish whp





Daskoupe said:


> I ran #30s, vr maf and a cam with stock ecu. can made 175 whp at 9 s psi.


At 15psi, I made 258whp. At 9spi, I was at 195whp respectively.


roknroko16v said:


> Basically dampens any excessive engine noise to prevent timing adjustment. I run similar piece that I machined myself out of aluminum
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


I made mine out of 1/4" thick phenolic plate. :thumbup:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

258whp? @ 15psi? So I imagine you are not stock ecm


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> 258whp? @ 15psi? So I imagine you are not stock ecm


I would love to know more on this one?? Head work, fueling, tune???


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

*Edited to fix typo errors*



Daskoupe said:


> 258whp? @ 15psi? So I imagine you are not stock ecm





99MK3VDUB said:


> I would love to know more on this one?? Head work, fueling, tune???


My bad, that was 185whp @9psi. You just have to know what really works, that's all. But that was also on a Dynojet. That was actually when the car was still on the 01M 4 spd automatic too....The link for the dyno graph is a no-go because the site was removed, but when I fly back home next week I'll dig it up and post it for you guys. For what little was done the power curve is actually VERY nice. It goes to peak and stays there all the way up the range. Below was the mod list, taken from the Official 2.0 dyno figures and mod list thread. The only difference was that the list is wrong, and I had installed a TT 266 cam just before the dyno day. The software was C2 and prior to the emissions compliant version (ya know, back when Jeff Atwood did the programming and it wasn't so hit or miss). Also, I ported the head after doing some research on short side radius work, CC polishing, removing any "steps" in the air flow path, etc. 

PBWB

1997 Getta 2.0L 8vT
120,000 miles on chassis
2,000 miles on motor
Dyno: Dynojet 248C @ Pro-Motion Tuning - Fredericksburg, VA
Custom fabricated 3" intake
ABA OBDI 2.0 block
C2 Motorsports 42# chip with Bosch green tops and 3" MAF
ARP Main studs
ARP U/C Head studs
Stock bottom end w/rebuild
P&P head w/HD springs and Ti retainers
Stock cam
BBM head spacer
ATP exhaust mani
ATP intercooler kit
ATP 2.5" downpipe
EIP 2.5" cat-back
EIP 2.5"high flow cat
Tial 38mm WG, Greddy Type S BOV (recirculated)
Garrett T3/T04E 57 trim (cold), .63 a/r (hot), stage III internals
Turbosmart E-boost EBC
Zeitronix wideband
OEM crank windage tray
STOCK AUTOMATIC O1M tranny (w/torque converter slip)


DISCLAIMER: Forgive the yellow intake mani.....It was a long time ago and I was very young and still new to the turbo game. hahaha

The 9psi dyno was 185whp, as seen here.

[video]http://s143.photobucket.com/user/PBWB/media/Teh%20Jetta/RicekillrDyno1.mp4.html[/video]

The 15psi dyno was 257.8whp (technically, but who doesn't round up a smidge?), as seen here.

[video]http://s143.photobucket.com/user/PBWB/media/Teh%20Jetta/RicekillrDyno3.mp4.html[/video]

That day the I ran and kept up with a stage 2+ B5 S4. He was thoroughly pissed.


After all that the car made what should have been around 300whp at around 19psi after some more work (o2a swap and some other go fast stuff). I overheated on the dyno one day and ran it anyway cause no effs were given, and still made 261whp/298wtq! hahaha The car is gone now, but full interior I ran a C6 vette (earlier 400hp version) from 40-120 and he never got so much as a fender on me. That was about the extent of it.

Now I'm building a Monty 91 GTI ABA turbo car with every bell and whistle you can think of....dyno goal is 500+whp and HOPEFULLY a 10 second pass. That motor is over-bored and has a custom ground 288* cam, is solid lifter converted, and has big valves. It flows 188 cfm on the intake side (more than a 16v head). That car won't be done for quite a while though because I'm in Saudi Arabia for work. 

I'd be happy to help anyone that needs it with my own experience. Chances are either Q or myself have been there, done that, and tried it. 

Yes, I miss you Q-bert. Now mail me some good german goodies!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yeah the dyno jets read high.
I heard 30whp gains from head porting and now i see em


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I need info on head porting that's the next step for me I have tt 276 turbo cam and the largest valve kit for the head just trying to get it ported and polished to flow as best as possible I'm setting it up with a pte 6262 lugtronics and e85 hoping to have it done by end of next race season

I have big number goals for this set up going into a stripped down coupe hoping for high 9s and won't stop till I see 600 whp


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> I need info on head porting that's the next step for me I have tt 276 turbo cam and the largest valve kit for the head just trying to get it ported and polished to flow as best as possible I'm setting it up with a pte 6262 lugtronics and e85 hoping to have it done by end of next race season
> 
> I have big number goals for this set up going into a stripped down coupe hoping for high 9s and won't stop till I see 600 whp


You could literally bury yourself in research about building a good motor. It's ridiculous.....

You'll be able to pull 9s off in a mk1 with 520whp....but if you gotta have 600 good luck getting there! And I don't mean that sarcastically....

I have a Monty mk2 ABA-T project car that I'm into (and have been for some time now). I give all props to Jarod from SCCH. My project car has a solid lifter converted ABA head all done up by him. Stock flows 150cfm intake and 93cfm exhaust. Now mine flows 190cfm intake and 130cfm exhaust.

HERE is a link to the thread concerning my head build. I put it on my daily and pulled on VRs with supporting mods at h2o. I've since pulled it back off, sold that car, and now that it's broken in I can re-shim the lifters and it should be ready to go for a while.

Here's a couple pics of the big ass cam I'm running for this setup. The casting around the lifters actually had to be milled to allow the cam to clear:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I know this company does an awesome CNC port

http://c-techperformance.com/cnc-head-porting/vw-aba-2-0-2/

They never pick the phone up. I know SCCH is good aswell.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

johnt2k7 said:


> its a factory 2.5 vband
> 
> 
> 
> ...


leave that OE flange alone. just weld a 3" vband straight to the housing and put a little filler plate in there after welding the wg flapper shut. thats what i did and it worked. :beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> I need info on head porting that's the next step for me I have tt 276 turbo cam and the largest valve kit for the head just trying to get it ported and polished to flow as best as possible I'm setting it up with a pte 6262 lugtronics and e85 hoping to have it done by end of next race season
> 
> I have big number goals for this set up going into a stripped down coupe hoping for high 9s and won't stop till I see 600 whp


i dont think u need to go to the largest valves but +1mm will help. With 25psi on a much smaller 54mm turbo i was at 375whp...at 35psi i was well north of 400whp (not sure how much). The cam you're looking at plus the larger turbo i know at least mid to high 500s are in your future...the unknown part is just how large of a power band you'll have.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> i dont think u need to go to the largest valves but +1mm will help. With 25psi on a much smaller 54mm turbo i was at 375whp...at 35psi i was well north of 400whp (not sure how much). The cam you're looking at plus the larger turbo i know at least mid to high 500s are in your future...the unknown part is just how large of a power band you'll have.


Well, with a solid tubular manifold anyway. Either way the key is FLOW. The basic equation is simple, and the worst part is everyone knows it......The more you have of that, with the least amount of restrictions, the more power you make. I just went a little apesh*t with the +2.5mm intake and +2mm exhaust. :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> Well, with a solid tubular manifold anyway. Either way the key is FLOW. The basic equation is simple, and the worst part is everyone knows it......The more you have of that, with the least amount of restrictions, the more power you make. I just went a little apesh*t with the +2.5mm intake and +2mm exhaust. :laugh:


and 5yrs later we're STILL waiting to see it run! Put it on an engine dyno or somethin!


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

ya i guess i did to since im running the 2.5 and 2.0 valve set, im sure i will be into a custom cam soon also, i have a equal length manifold in the works right now, turbo placemen will have the intake side of the turbo out the hood for nice cold air and a short up pipe for exhaust, will be running a nub works short runner intake, water to air intercooler with ice tank, 

car will be a drag car and maybe onthe street every once in a while, guess i will be givving a call to scch and see what it will run me for the port and polish, flow test and valve install hoping to get the same results as above, 


did they say the 288 is the larges cam for a turbo set up or could they get more if they wanted, just wondering as i know this thing will be on the raged edge.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Cam choice will depend on you RPM level. Where do you want your power band.
Your turbo selection also needs to be a good match for that.

Solid lifter balanced motor with a fluidamper can turn 11,000 RPM 
But I wouldn't take it there. so figure 9krpm making power into the 8500rpm range 
will require at least 276 cam or a 282. I would go with TT cams and have Colin 
Alter the L/C to 114 for less overlap for the turbo application. 

As for head work I recommend large ports and radius work in the bowls with smaller guilds
which will require smaller valve stems. On a Turbo setup I would go with larger intake valves
for more CFM entering the combustion chamber making more power across the power band 
and OEM exhaust valve size with smaller stems for exhaust velocity to spin the turbo faster. 
This will also give more metal around the exhaust seat to help aid in heat disbursement and durability.
5 angle valve grind 

Here are a few pics of my old 8v stuff. BTW if you want Ryan Jerry Rynolds at FES does this head work and he is local.


















This head flowed 192CFM 165 Exhaust. 42mm int 7mm stems, 37mm Exh 7mm stems.

















:beer::beer:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

the cam is a 114 lc that colin had developed and is a 276 we will see what we can come up with when the time comes for cams but for now I have that cam to start out with. 

repoman I need a number im all for local guys doing work as I can help get there name out there. and keep my money local.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> and 5yrs later we're STILL waiting to see it run! Put it on an engine dyno or somethin!


Well at least I have the money to finish it now. Now I just need to finish this contract so I can have the time. Besides, it would be 5x as pathetic blowing up on an engine dyno than in the car itself. lol


rabbitchaser said:


> ya i guess i did to since im running the 2.5 and 2.0 valve set, im sure i will be into a custom cam soon also, i have a equal length manifold in the works right now, turbo placemen will have the intake side of the turbo out the hood for nice cold air and a short up pipe for exhaust, will be running a nub works short runner intake, water to air intercooler with ice tank,
> 
> car will be a drag car and maybe onthe street every once in a while, guess i will be givving a call to scch and see what it will run me for the port and polish, flow test and valve install hoping to get the same results as above,
> 
> ...


It's not that you can't go bigger, it's more that there's absolutely no reason to. A 288* cam will make power above 8k, and there's not a whole lot of call for vw turbo motors revving much past that in the first place.....so additionally there's no market for it. Also, too much overlap on a turbo setup is bad juju. Now a decade ago the vw world wouldn't normally run anything over a 276 duration, but it's been a proven thing for those who are trying to push limits to run a higher duration than that.

Just make sure you match the cam with the size turbo you are running so one doesn't step on the other's toes powerband-wise.


REPOMAN said:


> Cam choice will depend on you RPM level. Where do you want your power band.
> Your turbo selection also needs to be a good match for that.
> 
> Solid lifter balanced motor with a fluidamper can turn 11,000 RPM
> ...


Yup, and based on the turbo you (rabbitchaser) have selected and the hp goal, I'd say a 288* is your best bet, for power from ~5500rpm and up.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

This thread is so full of wrong information its unbelievable.LOL


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

TIGninja said:


> This thread is so full of wrong information its unbelievable.LOL


Hi Chuck!:wave::laugh:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Dr. Chuckles


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

TIGninja said:


> This thread is so full of wrong information its unbelievable.LOL


fill us in sir?


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

With enough push from the turbo I am sure you can make 500whp with the 276 cam you already have.
Jerrys number is 503 77one-two526 Mon-Fri 9am-5pm

:beer::beer:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

thanks head will be going to his place Monday,


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

My head was done about 7 years ago still running strong. 1mm bigger intake 1mm bigger exhuast with a 7mm stem and a Schlick 272 270 dual pattern cam. Pulls hard like I'm at 5000 rpm but I'm at 6500. but I still stop there anyway lol I'm a pu$$y


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

well I ran my buddies cts stage 3 golf R last night. From 40 to 140 I got him by about a car....3 times:laugh:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> well I ran my buddies cts stage 3 golf R last night. From 40 to 140 I got him by about a car....3 times:laugh:


8vt:heart:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

spins to like 85 when I no lift shift 2nd to 3rd :laugh:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

so I guess I will have to talk to colin at techtonics about doing his magic with a 288 cam, unless the 276 magic cam will get me where I want to be. 


it sure opened up the engine with just the c2 chip and t3t4 turbo, im sure it will be very impressive with the much larger turbo, lugtronics and e85


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> so I guess I will have to talk to colin at techtonics about doing his magic with a 288 cam, unless the 276 magic cam will get me where I want to be.
> 
> 
> it sure opened up the engine with just the c2 chip and t3t4 turbo, im sure it will be very impressive with the much larger turbo, lugtronics and e85


Go back to your CCM gear set and get on my level already:laugh:


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Why is my car faster at 3/4 throttle than it is at full? This is because your map at full throttle is lacking. My guess is that you are given a safe tune at full throttle with little timing. The reason for this is that there are different turbos and the amount of timing advance they need at a certain flow is all going to be different.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

to late for that das, turbo kit is sold and gone, engine is at the machine shop right now getting wisecos and scat rods along wit new bearings put in it. head will go out Monday, I should have my intake manifold in a week or two and exhaust manifold is being built as we speak, then its onto the expensive stuff, fueling and stand alone, 


I have work to do to the coup to lighten it and put the 10 point cage in that will keep me busy while I save up for other stuff.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

the ccm gear set did not work to well for me little to long I am running a 24.5in tire and just could not get out of the hole, with the 16valve set up I was cutting 1.7 60 foots, and around 6k rpm out the back so it was pretty good set up.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> Go back to your CCM gear set and get on my level already:laugh:


With my 500whp goal in my mk2 project car, I was given the advice (by a certain hardcore vw guru) of keeping the 3.68 final drive. Gear it for the strip if you're going to drag it, not the street for the best possible traction scenario. You can't fully have both....



rabbitchaser said:


> the ccm gear set did not work to well for me little to long I am running a 24.5in tire and just could not get out of the hole, with the 16valve set up I was cutting 1.7 60 foots, and around 6k rpm out the back so it was pretty good set up.


Exactly.....At least you know what was going on with it and why. :beer: to you!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

PBWB said:


> With my 500whp goal in my mk2 project car, I was given the advice (by a certain hardcore vw guru) of keeping the 3.68 final drive. Gear it for the strip if you're going to drag it, not the street for the best possible traction scenario. You can't fully have both....
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly.....At least you know what was going on with it and why. :beer: to you!


I gotta leave the line at like 6k. But I cant see a better gear set for big power. Plus if your going standalone you should have gear based boost and anti lag :laugh:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I gotta leave the line at like 6k. But I cant see a better gear set for big power. Plus if your going standalone you should have gear based boost and anti lag :laugh:


Oh yea, that's right. Neither of you have that. lol


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

My 02j is gone also ,I am putting in a 02m the shell I bought is all set up for it and I got a trans for 300 bucks, they will handle 700 whp no problem so no need tor crazy gear sets yet


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## JohnStamos (Feb 3, 2010)

TIGninja said:


> Why is my car faster at 3/4 throttle than it is at full? This is because your map at full throttle is lacking. My guess is that you are given a safe tune at full throttle with little timing. The reason for this is that there are different turbos and the amount of timing advance they need at a certain flow is all going to be different.




I logged one recent C2 ABA-T file, and it was DUMPING fuel at WOT. High 10.x's. Timing was very conservative, but so all over the map.

We threw a Zenor diode in it to make a few passes, interrupting the map signal, so it thought it was at part throttle. Sat at mid 13.x's. Stock long block with nothing to lose.




Also, timing demand/tolerence has WAY more to do with compression/quench/squish/cam profile/PCV setup/Piston dome/etc then turbo choice.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

JohnStamos said:


> I logged one recent C2 ABA-T file, and it was DUMPING fuel at WOT. High 10.x's. Timing was very conservative, but so all over the map.
> 
> We threw a Zenor diode in it to make a few passes, interrupting the map signal, so it thought it was at part throttle. Sat at mid 13.x's. Stock long block with nothing to lose.
> 
> ...


If it is OBD1 the best thing to do is to bring it to one of the honda tuning shops (they have the proper equipment to tune it) and have them tune it.


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

^^^Agree^^^
custom file is where its at if your afraid of standalone.....The one file fits all crap has got to stop...it DOES NOT WORK.....well it works for posers.
You will pick up 80+ WHP switching to standalone....with no other changes


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

am I poser dave?


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

no not you
but you know who (they) are....
Ill be in FLA to stay Feb 1st


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Salsa GTI said:


> no not you
> but you know who (they) are....
> Ill be in FLA to stay Feb 1st


meetings will happened! beers will be drank


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

your power numbers look great what is the current setup?
Ill Blast up to your place on my moped when im settled in. down in venice with the rest of the old people..............lol:beer:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Salsa GTI said:


> your power numbers look great what is the current setup?
> Ill Blast up to your place on my moped when im settled in. down in venice with the rest of the old people..............lol:beer:


I'm in Bradenton which is like 30 minutes north of you.

Haven't dyno-ed in like a year

I guess since you were around maybe the turbo?and gearing

Still c2 stage 2,4 bar fpr, walbro, 3 inch maf, water meth
Stock head ports, autotech 270 cam
Turbo is a 57 trim from the g pop shop in AZ (so far the best turbo I have used almost 35 k and going strong)


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Just for ****s and giggles ran my friends srt 8 from a roll and had him by a car till I hitt 100 then I stopped only cause we see no need to go over that. But I'm actually surprised , and put a smile on my face for a while


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

PBWB said:


> With my 500whp goal in my mk2 project car, I was given the advice (by a certain hardcore vw guru) of keeping the 3.68 final drive. Gear it for the strip if you're going to drag it, not the street for the best possible traction scenario. You can't fully have both....


You need to buy the trans from my rabbit. Its a O2a, cannot remember what code, but it is the Passat 16v one that has the same gears as a G60.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

that is the trans I had in my gti passat16v/g60 gearing, I swapped out for ccm gearing from a vr6 but with my large slicks I could not get out of the hole and going out the back end in 3rd gear on the rev limiter. with the 16v trans I was cutting 1.7 60 foots launching at 4k (to save stock axles ) and crossing the finish at around 6k rpm in 4th gear. 

seemed about right for around 300 whp and 24.5 in slicks.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

TIGninja said:


> You need to buy the trans from my rabbit. Its a O2a, cannot remember what code, but it is the Passat 16v one that has the same gears as a G60.


Eh, I have an o2j with a peloquin, AP gears, and AP pinion brace. Good to go. Also have spare o2j cases and a spare AP gear set JUST in case.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

what do you guys think of the underdrive crank pulleys . I think I'm going to go back to a stock unit. The aluminum ones aren't really dampers. I wish we could get a fluiddampr but they dont make them for us. 

The reason I say anything is because they use the stock one to help balance the crank and absorb vibrations. The aluminum ones I know aren't doing that


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

I have never liked solid crank pulleys. I wish ATI made one for our cars, but they don't. OEM it is for me.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Mark Morris said:


> I have never liked solid crank pulleys. I wish ATI made one for our cars, but they don't. OEM it is for me.


I was hoping the lug powered aba would chime in! Thanks bud


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

No problem. One of these days I'll dust the ole' girl off, throw in a clutch that will hold more power and see what she'll make on the latest setup.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Mark Morris said:


> No problem. One of these days I'll dust the ole' girl off, throw in a clutch that will hold more power and see what she'll make on the latest setup.


Nice!
:thumbup: For old race cars.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> what do you guys think of the underdrive crank pulleys . I think I'm going to go back to a stock unit. The aluminum ones aren't really dampers. I wish we could get a fluiddampr but they dont make them for us.
> 
> The reason I say anything is because they use the stock one to help balance the crank and absorb vibrations. The aluminum ones I know aren't doing that


I use the 1.8T fluidamper with a custom crank trigger pick up wheel 
This aligns to the ABA accessory pulley alignment.


























I have used a light weight Billet crank pulley in the past. I broke that crank.
The OEM ABA crank pulley Harmonic balancer is a rubber one. good to about 9krpm
The AWP 1.8t is lighter and also is rubber band balancer good to 9krpm.
I have a trigger wheel in the works for that OEM pulley. should be done in 1 week.

The fluidamper is good to 11krpm... Over rev anyone?
My highest to date is 9300RPM
:beer::beer:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

well lower half of intake manifold and head are at machine shop getting all worked over, i have a feeling it will be there for while which is fine. 

equal lenght exhaust manifold is done also,


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

kinetics kit
OBD1
57 trim
270 cam
TT valve springs + retainers 
All ARP hardware
BBM headgasket spacer
440cc
C2 chip
*edit* 
020 from a 16v with a pelequin 
Big fat 205/55/15 Dunlop direzza tires


*first time showing her off on vortex...sorry for all the pictures
I want a smaller turbo (gt28rs) i have a meth kit and a mk4 intake manifold that will be going in this winter. Also planning on porting and polishing my head. What kind of gains are seen from a P&P head? Would love to hear some advice from the gurus!


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Nice ride man


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Depends on how much work you pit in the head if it's just a gasket match and polish it will give you some, also if your doing head work I would look into a tt 276 turbo cam it's the perfect cam all around


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Looks fantastic.

:thumbup:

Famous quotes on engine building
Always maximize power within the rpm band where the engine spends most it's time.

Port velocity will improve cylinder filling more efficiently especially at and below peak torque
than big flow numbers generated by large slow moving ports.

A strong cylinder head will always make more power even if poorly
matched with the cam. A weak cylinder head matched with an 
optimized cam will never perform as well.

Intake runner length is one of the critical decisions in engine building since it
contributes significantly to the shape of the power curve.

John Lingenfelter



When designing or building a turbo/supercharged engine you must not think of air being blown into the engine. 
you must think in terms of the compressor supplying higher density air. Flow is Flow and whether it is water, thin air or dense air, with different Reynolds Numbers, the rules are all the same. 

All of the things that interrupt flow are just as prevalent in a turbo/supercharged engine as in a normally aspirated engine. 
The Port shape and combustion chamber are no different than it would be if the engine was normally aspirated. 
the transition in the bowl area from the port entrance. The shape of the port is probably the most critical factor in how much power a given engine can produce and more importantly where in the rpm band does the power start and peters out.

Remember , the higher intake manifold pressure developed by a turbo leads to higher velocity flow into the combustion chamber. 
In my own experience I have found that getting the ports to flow at low valve lift seems to go hand in hand with a broad torque band and that translates into better drivability. Of course there are other factors that influence the width of the torque band of an engine but they are all tied to the breathing. 

The intake manifold for instance is very key as it is upstream from the ports of the cylinder head. Turbo/supercharging, because of the huge benefit of the denser air can sometimes allow engines to get away with a lot. most manifold have literally sharp 90 degree corners in it but the engine makes (for most people) ample power. The bottom line is that every time the air has to change direction you need to gently convince it to do so, such that the amount of energy it looses through pumping losses is minimized. 

If you look at custom made intake manifolds you can see the smooth trumpet shapes that are used to get the air to enter the runners with the least amount of turbulence developed. the straight smooth runners to minimize the pumping losses. These are very typical characteristics of what you would see on any sophisticated normally aspirated engine. 

The difference in the normally aspirated engine might be in the runner length as it would be tuned for optimum performance at a different Rpm range.
As in the design of the Intake system the same things that are important to the normally aspirated engine are also important to the turbo. 

The headers don't have to be equal length but it helps if each of the pressure pulses going into the turbo impellers are equal. But here there is a difference from the normally aspirated engine which responds to a tuned length. The tuned length and proper collector actually help the flow of the normal engine by creating a negative pressure in the collector to help the next pulse flow out. {Scavenge}

The turbo has this hot housing and impeller stuck in the way so the equal pulses help but the pressure build prior to the Turbo negates any benefit derived from the a tuned length and collector. 

:beer::beer:


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

REPOMAN said:


> Looks fantastic.
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot for the insight. :thumbup:

The intake manifold design on these engine are god aweful ha! i dont understand 90* bend at all. i would love to get my hands on a usrt joint, or some other manifold with a nice big plenum and some engineering behind it, but they just want too much damn money! 

i did source a mk4 intake manifold and valve cover for a very fair price, and its clearly bigger, and it seems it will flow better than my mk3 manifold. i figured with the addition of the new intake and a mild P&P on both ends i would see decent gains. obviously not nearly the gains from a properly engineered long runner from usrt, but for the cost i cant go wrong. 

any other critics? ive only ran on wastegate boost (12 lbs). but what i really hate about it is that the turbo doesnt hit full boost until 4600 rpms! and im shifting at 6500. I mean it pulls like a bat out of hell, but its soooo short lived. i was under the impression that with the c2 software i would be able to rev to 7200. i put a knock sensor spacer in thinking maybe that was the reason, but nope still only revving to 6500. only other thing i was thinking was that maybe i tapped the wrong signal for the tac and my gauge is just reading wrong. but i doubt it because idle is just under 1k. so anyone else have this problem with their c2 chip?

Finally, anyone think there is a benefit to running the pcv? i am running a catch can for the block breather, and the valve cover is venting into the atmosphere. a part of me wants to throw the pcv back in and see what happens, but another part of me really doesnt want to be bothered! anyone notice a significant difference with the pcv routed?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I hate to say this. But get a lower manifold and cut the bend off. Weld giant 3-4 inch plenum and make more power. The stock manifold is so junk.


Also did you flock that dash? if so what method did you use?


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Factory intake manifold has long runners for low-end torque-- hence the reason it curves over the valvecover. Horses for courses.

I don't see how you could do a good ported head, even with stock valves and a valve-job for less $ than a good short-runner intake manifold. 

Buy a short-runner intake first-- more bang for you buck and it will increase the powerband significantly.

I made good power to 7800 rpm with a bone stock OBD1 head, Autotech 270 cam, Racecraft intake manifold and tubular exhaust manifold with a .63 turbine housing on a 60-1 and Lugtronic tuned by Kevin Black.

After an intake manifold I would invest in a Lugtronic ecu. :beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Mark Morris said:


> Factory intake manifold has long runners for low-end torque-- hence the reason it curves over the valvecover. Horses for courses.
> 
> I don't see how you could do a good ported head, even with stock valves and a valve-job for less $ than a good short-runner intake manifold.
> 
> ...


I concur Dr.M.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> Also did you flock that dash? if so what method did you use?


That is Pimp. I like it.


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

love the rabbit too, jersey in the hizzouse. bern

edit: that's why ive been holding onto a NIB A2 dash, always loved that look, reminds me of BillyT


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Mark Morris said:


> Factory intake manifold has long runners for low-end torque-- hence the reason it curves over the valvecover. Horses for courses.
> 
> I don't see how you could do a good ported head, even with stock valves and a valve-job for less $ than a good short-runner intake manifold.
> 
> ...



I see. I am going to do the head work myself. I picked up a Bentley and have half a clue about putting motors together. I'm no engineer, but wider polished ports is my goal.

I guess your right...I need to dish out the cash for a shortrunner. I'm going to keep an eye in the classifieds for one.

Mark I'm a huge fan of your work btw. Seeing your build is what inspired me to go the route I did with this swap. 

Thanks for the info bud. Keep doing what your doing:beer:


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Daskoupe said:


> I hate to say this. But get a lower manifold and cut the bend off. Weld giant 3-4 inch plenum and make more power. The stock manifold is so junk.
> 
> 
> Also did you flock that dash? if so what method did you use?


I tried that! Didn't work. Didn't flow well at all. Engineering is pretty important for proper flow to reach each of the four runners. Some things you just have to leave to the pros. 

Dash and gauge panel are wrapped. A friend of mine did the dash and the stitching for me. I did the gauge panel myself Send me a pm I could give you more info


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I tried that! Didn't work. Didn't flow well at all. Engineering is pretty important for proper flow to reach each of the four runners. Some things you just have to leave to the pros.
> 
> Dash and gauge panel are wrapped. A friend of mine did the dash and the stitching for me. I did the gauge panel myself Send me a pm I could give you more info


I guess I should specific that you need some sorta funnel/stack on the end of the stock runners.


And give a ball park on the dash


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I see. I am going to do the head work myself. I picked up a Bentley and have half a clue about putting motors together. I'm no engineer, but wider polished ports is my goal.
> 
> I guess your right...I need to dish out the cash for a shortrunner. I'm going to keep an eye in the classifieds for one.
> 
> ...


Just be careful if you decide to port a head yourself. It's a lot easier to make things worse as opposed to better.

Thanks for the compliment. Your Rabbit is sweet-- keep up the good work and remember above all else to have fun with it.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Mark Morris said:


> Just be careful if you decide to port a head yourself. It's a lot easier to make things worse as opposed to better.
> 
> Thanks for the compliment. Your Rabbit is sweet-- keep up the good work and remember above all else to have fun with it.


This is true. I'll definitely do some more research before I commit. 

Thanks mark. It has been a wild ride so far can't wait to see what the future will hold


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

just got back from the track. [email protected] (2.0 60')was my second and last pass of today. I need a helmet (they said no more racing till I get one):laugh:. Fresh pavement so I wanted to dail in the tire pressures... Needless to say I didn't get to try it out. But I did find my meth line is leaking going into the injector. So with a 1.8 60 and 4 good shifts I should see an 11.90 in my daily:thumbup:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> just got back from the track. [email protected] (2.0 60')was my second and last pass of today. I need a helmet (they said no more racing till I get one):laugh:. Fresh pavement so I wanted to dail in the tire pressures... Needless to say I didn't get to try it out. But I did find my meth line is leaking going into the injector. So with a 1.8 60 and 4 good shifts I should see an 11.90 in my daily:thumbup:


Sounds about right.

Nice run. How much does the vehicle weigh?
a good clutch and a strong pressure plate find the tire pressure to get the best 60' times without
braking something is the goal.

:beer::beer:

I launch on a OEM Pressure plate and a 6puc clutch 5k to 9kRPM the clutch slips then hooks. this is on the Ebrake at 5psi boost 
on 2700lbs Cowraddo With a 300lbs Farmer driving it. 1.72 60' 

The last launch not much cool down time the hot clutch grabbed and I bogged out of the hole. A 3800lbs Pressure plate will hook and book on a 6 puc clutch but it is a DEAD launch NOT a Slip launch.
not such a good idea on a heavier car.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Daskoupe said:


> just got back from the track. [email protected] (2.0 60')was my second and last pass of today. I need a helmet (they said no more racing till I get one):laugh:. Fresh pavement so I wanted to dail in the tire pressures... Needless to say I didn't get to try it out. But I did find my meth line is leaking going into the injector. So with a 1.8 60 and 4 good shifts I should see an 11.90 in my daily:thumbup:


Awesome numbers:thumbup:. I to would love to know your wieght. Also are you pre loading with the hand brake on? Just curious to know your lunch technic


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

always use the handbrake. I know 12-11 psi to be my sweet spot. But I didnt get to adjust them down from 15. The track surfce is brand new and wanted to feel it out

The car is stock interior with working ac and heat too


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Guessing game if anyone wants to see how good their knowledge for the aba are lol http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5862467-Goodbye-twinscrew-hello-turbo-which-turbo-to-use


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## tg442 (Jul 13, 2010)

I know this topic has been covered a million times but I need advice about it.

I have an OBDI aba running an ATP Stage 2 turbo kit at 10psi. My engine was rebuilt to stock specs with some head work and a 260 cam. 10psi is good but I want more. My engine should be able to handle more as I have 42# injectors and C2 motorsports stage 2 software. All that is left to do it head spacer and head studs to lower compression. Is it safe to up the boost? 15 psi would be awesome, but if 20psi is safe I want 20. I am only worried about my 020 tranny not being able to handle the extra power. It has had no problems on 10 pounds but I don't know if it can handle more. I have a spec stage 2 clutch too. 20psi would probably unsafe to run all the time on an 020, but how about 15 psi?


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## tg442 (Jul 13, 2010)

I know this topic has been covered a million times but I need advice about it.

I have an OBDI aba running an ATP Stage 2 turbo kit at 10psi. My engine was rebuilt to stock specs about 15k miles ago with some head work and a 260 cam. 10psi is good but I want more. My engine should be able to handle more as I have 42# injectors and C2 motorsports stage 2 software. All that is left to do it head spacer and head studs to lower compression. Is it safe to up the boost? 15 psi would be awesome, but if 20psi is safe I want 20. I am only worried about my 020 tranny not being able to handle the extra power. It has had no problems on 10 pounds but I don't know if it can handle more. I have a spec stage 2 clutch too. 20psi would probably unsafe to run all the time on an 020, but how about 15 psi? The tranny has almost 90k miles on it btw.

The turbo is a t3/t4 50 trim and I have a walboro 255 fuel pump and full 2.5 in exhaust


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

When you drop compression you will need the low compression c2 file. I spike 17 psi with a pte3431 turbo, spec stage 3 and factory 020 trans. With the 50 trim you have more torque down low which can be hard on the trans but it all boils down to your driving habits and style

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

here is my two runs

Thats my 12.5

http://youtu.be/O1rjDXvyOk4


This was slower 


http://youtu.be/hoS0GrURSBk


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## tg442 (Jul 13, 2010)

roknroko16v said:


> When you drop compression you will need the low compression c2 file. I spike 17 psi with a pte3431 turbo, spec stage 3 and factory 020 trans. With the 50 trim you have more torque down low which can be hard on the trans but it all boils down to your driving habits and style
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Is there a chip I can just get or do I need all new software? And I tend to drive like an asshat a lot but the roads by me are in very good condition and I never rev past 6k rpms. Right now im thinking 15 psi no more boost and no other mods because im going to be right on the verge of the 020s limits.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

tg442 said:


> Is there a chip I can just get or do I need all new software? And I tend to drive like an asshat a lot but the roads by me are in very good condition and I never rev past 6k rpms. Right now im thinking 15 psi no more boost and no other mods because im going to be right on the verge of the 020s limits.


C2 makes stage 2 file chip and stage 2 low compression chip. 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## tg442 (Jul 13, 2010)

ok. lowering compression and boosting 15 pounds would be one way to increase power, but with head studs spacer and new chip it starts to get expensive quickly. What about if I go the water meth route. Can I run water meth injection without lowering compression? and if I do will 10 pounds on water meth get me ~50hp more?

The car has a lot of work done to it and it pulls hard but I just want a little more if I can get it.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

12 psi is about as much as I would trust on a stock compression stock internal aba, with water meth you could turn up to 12 and add the water meth and might get to 50 more hp. 



by the way I was running the stage 2 c2 chip for stock compression with stacked head gaskets and it ran great. 


also you don't need a head spacer just two mls gaskets and some copper spray works great I ran that set up for 2 years and many more people for much longer. with that set up you can turn your car up to 23psi and run it all day every day.


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## tg442 (Jul 13, 2010)

Yeah I heard about the stacked head gaskets method, but whats the point when you can get a proper head spacer from bahn Brenner for 135 when each head gasket is 65?

Believe me id be at 20psi if it weren't for the 020 tranny. There's tons of people running 20psi on stock engines with 100k miles or more and only stacked headgaskets. With a rebuilt engine with really low miles in very good condition I have no doubts my engine could handle it. 

12psi and water meth injection + a cheap ebay test pipe should give me the extra ~50hp I want and put my at the 020's limits safely.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Daskoupe said:


> here is my two runs
> 
> Thats my 12.5
> 
> ...


:thumbup:

Car looks and sounds great


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> Car looks and sounds great


not bad for almost 200k on a stock long block:laugh:


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> always use the handbrake. I know 12-11 psi to be my sweet spot. But I didnt get to adjust them down from 15. The track surfce is brand new and wanted to feel it out
> 
> The car is stock interior with working ac and heat too


What tires?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Mark Morris said:


> What tires?


mh 23s


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> mh 23s


Air those babies down! I would start at 10 psi at the most and work down until 60' & 330' start going the wrong way again. You should be able to do 1.7x 60's all day, even with a street car and not a lot of front weight bias. Make sure there is some wrinkle in the sidewalls cold before the burnout.

How much does your car weigh. Even with heavy (2900#) street cars I haven't run lower than 8 or 9 psi cold on 23's. :beer:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Mark Morris said:


> Air those babies down! I would start at 10 psi at the most and work down until 60' & 330' start going the wrong way again. You should be able to do 1.7x 60's all day, even with a street car and not a lot of front weight bias. Make sure there is some wrinkle in the sidewalls cold before the burnout.
> 
> How much does your car weigh. Even with heavy (2900#) street cars I haven't run lower than 8 or 9 psi cold on 23's. :beer:


never weighted it whatever a stock 2 door jetta weights. I have never gone below 10 lol. I'll try it next time I am out.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

I meant to say I have not run higher than 8 or 9 psi cold on heavy 2900# cars on 23's. Just do some experimenting at the track. Launch higher, because they will hook better once you drop below 10 psi and the chance of a bog will be high. Have fun!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

i know at 12 psi they need like a 5800rpm launch lol


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

my 24.5 MHs would start braking stuff at 9 psi i broke 2 axles in the burn out box then put them up to 11 and no braking and launching at 5k would get me a low 1.8 60ft. 


i hate stock axles by the way cant wait to have something i dont have to worry about.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

running a 1.8t fluid damper using a spacer, got it from issam years ago. works great. safer than a rubber pulley for me because of sds magnets.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> my 24.5 MHs would start braking stuff at 9 psi i broke 2 axles in the burn out box then put them up to 11 and no braking and launching at 5k would get me a low 1.8 60ft.
> 
> 
> i hate stock axles by the way cant wait to have something i dont have to worry about.


Pre-loading is the key. You must use the e-brake and preload the clutch to minimise drivetrain breakage. Very stiff engine/ trans mounts are also key.

Were you running VW OEM axles or "factory" replacements (EMPI, etc)? The genuine factory stuff holds-up very well, but aftermarket replacement axles snap like balsa wood. I have seen the cheapies shear right off where the outer splines go into the hub more times than I can count.

If you get upgraded axles, buy The Driveshaft Shop (DSS). Nothing out there touches them.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Mark Morris said:


> Pre-loading is the key. You must use the e-brake and preload the clutch to minimise drivetrain breakage. Very stiff engine/ trans mounts are also key.
> 
> Were you running VW OEM axles or "factory" replacements (EMPI, etc)? The genuine factory stuff holds-up very well, but aftermarket replacement axles snap like balsa wood. I have seen the cheapies shear right off where the outer splines go into the hub more times than I can count.
> 
> If you get upgraded axles, buy The Driveshaft Shop (DSS). Nothing out there touches them.



Agreed I went threw 4 lifetime warranty axles till I got tired and purchased stright from vw, haven't had a prob since and I had a good amount of tq with instand boost for years. Still looks new knock on wood lol. Also threw out the years I've learned to stick with stock axels because even with a beefed up tranny when you upgrade your axels the next thing that's the weakest link in that tranny will go so I prefer for the axel to snap unless your into serious tracking and dnt care yes nothing is better dss


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I need to find a stiffer mk2 rear mount


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

that's what is going into the car with the new build dss stage 5 Honda style axles for a o2m mk2. 


das im working on that right now, how extreme do you want to go, im working ona solid mount for the passanger side mount, if your interested I could probly install a stiff bushing if wanted also.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I've raced 9 seasons with about 60 passes a season on DSS3 Axles. from 230whp SC FWD to 450whp Turbo FWD
Preload launch the entire time. No problems with the axles ever.
Well worth the money. Solid mount are a must.
I Just did this. Again Axle survived without issue.

















I wish there was a source of Chrome molly Axle Flanges. 
But then the next thing to break is gears. Always something.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Mark Morris said:


> Pre-loading is the key. You must use the e-brake and preload the clutch to minimise drivetrain breakage. Very stiff engine/ trans mounts are also key.
> 
> Were you running VW OEM axles or "factory" replacements (EMPI, etc)? The genuine factory stuff holds-up very well, but aftermarket replacement axles snap like balsa wood. I have seen the cheapies shear right off where the outer splines go into the hub more times than I can count.
> 
> If you get upgraded axles, buy The Driveshaft Shop (DSS). Nothing out there touches them.


sorry i feel like i've never heard of pre-loading a manual car...heck i know i haven't. that's interesting, though i'm sure it takes some practice...i need to try that sometime.:beer:


also for those interested i can get Driveshaft Shop products as well.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser a derlin insert would rock!


and Q preloading is the bomb. Works great in awd too. Just need the clutch that can take a beating:thumbup:


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

REPOMAN said:


> I've raced 9 seasons with about 60 passes a season on DSS3 Axles. from 230whp SC FWD to 450whp Turbo FWD
> Preload launch the entire time. No problems with the axles ever.
> Well worth the money. Solid mount are a must.
> I Just did this. Again Axle survived without issue.
> ...


That's exactly what I was saying couple post up, the next thing to go is the weakest link in the tranny. Perfect example.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> I need to find a stiffer mk2 rear mount


Machine one out of aluminum or delrin. A cheap solution is to fill any air gaps in your stock mount with 3M Window Weld (for gluing in windshields) and let it cure thoroughly.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

REPOMAN said:


> I wish there was a source of Chrome molly Axle Flanges.
> But then the next thing to break is gears. Always something.


DSS makes some and AP Tuning used to sell them as well. Then it's time for an aftermarket gearset. :beer:


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> sorry i feel like i've never heard of pre-loading a manual car...heck i know i haven't. that's interesting, though i'm sure it takes some practice...i need to try that sometime.:beer:


Watch my right hand on the e-brake in the second half (in-car) portion of the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78BgaUifgVw

Bring the clutch up until it just starts to engage and makes the chassis start to squat. Car has a stock 020 with a spool and stock (factory) axles btw.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

cifdig said:


> That's exactly what I was saying couple post up, the next thing to go is the weakest link in the tranny. Perfect example.


And that, in a nutshell, is drag racing.  See my sig for reference, lol.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

my whole thing is I am at the point where anything else I do motor wise is 2k+.. Go lugtronic 2k build new motor 2k new turbo and manifold 2k. 
So If I can hit that 11.99 on my c2 stock bottom end setup I'd be so happy. The car as it now mauls most everything from a 40 roll but the time slip is all that matters


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Mark Morris said:


> DSS makes some and AP Tuning used to sell them as well. Then it's time for an aftermarket gearset. :beer:


Yeah I know..... The budget only calls for a Hook and Book Clutch this year.
I'm going to try softer launching maybe bogging to keep it together another season.
I don't trust the flywheel and the OEM VR6 PP is toast after 1 season. [about 50 passes.]

I got sponsorship for the next 16 races. [Race fees] 
If I win the championship I get a New OBD2 ECU solution.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> my whole thing is I am at the point where anything else I do motor wise is 2k+.. Go lugtronic 2k build new motor 2k new turbo and manifold 2k.
> So If I can hit that 11.99 on my c2 stock bottom end setup I'd be so happy. The car as it now mauls most everything from a 40 roll but the time slip is all that matters


Jeff A. Has a 630cc tune from what i hear...


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Jeff A. Has a 630cc tune from what i hear...


for obd1? my chip is about 4 years old. Does he update the tune ever? Q put in the word son


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> for obd1? my chip is about 4 years old. Does he update the tune ever? Q put in the word son


Look for the motronic tuning thread here. All the files are there so you can take OBD1 to any honda tuner and have them make you a tune for anything you want.


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Jeff A. Has a 630cc tune from what i hear...


True Story... Im in the process of getting it for these

Siemens 630cc injectors


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

looks likes it a obd2 tune for now daskoupe, might be a reason to switch over some time soon,


im just waiting for machine work to get done before i spend anymoney on anything at this point, when stuff starts coming back i will start a build thread for the new set up. 


im just doing mods to the body right now, making it a bit lighter :laugh:


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## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

Had some progress on my build, just finishing up engine bay to receive the motor and trans, cut, weld, tuck, paint , man this is time consuming... but engine ready to roll.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

word to the wise man.... Brace you turbo to the valve cover...:thumbup:

looks great though!:beer:


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Looks Good Jason. Is that the 9A block Ryan sold?
What Turbo and management?

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

Finally got mine up and running. 

The Piping from the turbo to the Throttle body is super tight and not finished yet.

Can I drive the car to Force Fed Engineering without the DV plumbed in? Once there Ed, will finish the plumbing.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

do you have to remove the intake to change/ inspect spark plugs?


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

jettred3 said:


> Finally got mine up and running.
> 
> The Piping from the turbo to the Throttle body is super tight and not finished yet.
> 
> Can I drive the car to Force Fed Engineering without the DV plumbed in? Once there Ed, will finish the plumbing.



Where are u coming from? Force fed in Long Island correct?


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## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

cifdig said:


> Where are u coming from? Force fed in Long Island correct?


Harrisburg, Pennsylvania.


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## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

I already did that thing is heavy, using the 034 turbo brace kit.


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## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

jettred3 said:


> Finally got mine up and running.
> 
> The Piping from the turbo to the Throttle body is super tight and not finished yet.
> 
> Can I drive the car to Force Fed Engineering without the DV plumbed in? Once there Ed, will finish the plumbing.



Looks great nice detail work!:thumbup:


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## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

REPOMAN said:


> Looks Good Jason. Is that the 9A block Ryan sold?
> What Turbo and management?
> 
> :thumbup::thumbup:


Thanks Don.:beer:

No its a ABA I have been working on for awhile for the mk2 Jetta, Iam saving the ABA 16v for the rallye golf. This engine is running a GTX3071R, and 034 Managment.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

jasonbend79 said:


> Thanks Don.:beer:
> 
> No its a ABA I have been working on for awhile for the mk2 Jetta, Iam saving the ABA 16v for the rallye golf. This engine is running a GTX3071R, and 034 Managment.


what Vendor do you guys recommend to purchase a ABA turbo "kit" from... doing a web search on ABA turbo, brings up a bunch of junk...


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I guess no one makes a kit anymore....


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I guess no one makes a kit anymore....


seriously.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> I guess no one makes a kit anymore....


Part of me wants to join and make a smart comment too but in the holiday spirit I'll be nice. Try bahn Brenner and kinetic motorsports which is sold through CTS turbo

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

roknroko16v said:


> Part of me wants to join and make a smart comment too but in the holiday spirit I'll be nice. Try bahn Brenner and kinetic motorsports which is sold through CTS turbo
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


That is correct...However the "Kits" from ANYWHERE that currently advertises them don't have a Manifold available, therefore making it incomplete. I tried to get CTS to get me a kit and subtract the manifold and I would have one made elsewhere or buy a cheap ebay manifold just to get it up and running, it turned into more of a pain than it was worth.. So I bought everything I needed to make my own setup how I wanted it.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> Part of me wants to join and make a smart comment too but in the holiday spirit I'll be nice.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


so glad you didnt, too much of that around the vortex already...




99MK3VDUB said:


> That is correct...However the "Kits" from ANYWHERE that currently advertises them don't have a Manifold available, therefore making it incomplete. I tried to get CTS to get me a kit and subtract the manifold and I would have one made elsewhere or buy a cheap ebay manifold just to get it up and running, it turned into more of a pain than it was worth.. So I bought everything I needed to make my own setup how I wanted it.


went to CTS, and it seems like the hold up IS the Manifold. The company that produces the castings is just not doing it anymore...


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

redzone98 said:


> went to CTS, and it seems like the hold up IS the Manifold. The company that produces the castings is just not doing it anymore...


The CTS setup is fairly nice and a good base to add on to but also depends on your overall goals. I don't care for the C2 software, I stick with UM or standalone.. Speak to Clay at CTS if you are wanting to go that route and see if he can get you the setup minus the manifold, there are MANY places to get a manifold you can purchase from to complete the basic setup. I chose to have a tubular made and it came out to roughly $750. I'm scared to see what I have in this build now :laugh:


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

99MK3VDUB said:


> I chose to have a tubular made and it came out to roughly $750. I'm scared to see what I have in this build now :laugh:


unfortunately, when the ABA turbo "kit" cost goes above 3500$ is the cross over point when a 1.8T swap becomes more beneficial, so going with custom, one off stuff is excellent, but really falls short for hp per $ spent


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

redzone98 said:


> unfortunately, when the ABA turbo "kit" cost goes above 3500$ is the cross over point when a 1.8T swap becomes more beneficial, so going with custom, one off stuff is excellent, but really falls short for hp per $ spent


This is true but I'm not into the 1.8T swap hassles and headaches


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

The ABA will make just as much power per dollar as a 1.8t until you get above 500whp.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Search classifieds and even craigslist. I got my stage 3 kinetics kit new minus software, injectors and head spacer for 1600 off craigslist and actually has upgraded turbo instead of the standard 50 trim

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

TIGninja said:


> The ABA will make just as much power per dollar as a 1.8t until you get above 500whp.


I have heard something very similar to this but I sure don't plan (right now  ) on trying to get a street car to that level....Nor did I want to start an 8v vs. 1.8T Vortex war.. I have also seen it could cost more with more to build a "powerful" 1.8T and parts arent as easy to come by. I havent looked into it myself as I dont ever plan on doing it...

I :heart: my 8v




roknroko16v said:


> Search classifieds and even craigslist. I got my stage 3 kinetics kit new minus software, injectors and head spacer for 1600 off craigslist and actually has upgraded turbo instead of the standard 50 trim


You should have bought a MEGA MILLIONS ticket the same day bruh.... WINNER !!!!


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

redzone98 said:


> unfortunately, when the ABA turbo "kit" cost goes above 3500$ is the cross over point when a 1.8T swap becomes more beneficial, so going with custom, one off stuff is excellent, but really falls short for hp per $ spent


3500 got me to 400whp on my 8v. 1.8t would cost the same.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

99MK3VDUB said:


> I have heard something very similar to this but I sure don't plan (right now  ) on trying to get a street car to that level....Nor did I want to start an 8v vs. 1.8T Vortex war.. I have also seen it could cost more with more to build a "powerful" 1.8T and parts arent as easy to come by. I havent looked into it myself as I dont ever plan on doing it...
> 
> I :heart: my 8v
> 
> ...


I shopped around for awhile. Picked up stage 3 spec clutch for 225, injectors for 125 and c2 low compression 42# tune for 150. Now I'm in process of rebuilding another motor to turn it from 15psi up to about 22-24. I daily drive the car in Pennsylvania even in winter. I'm running a pte3431 for turbo.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

roknroko16v said:


> I shopped around for awhile. Picked up stage 3 spec clutch for 225, injectors for 125 and c2 low compression 42# tune for 150. Now I'm in process of rebuilding another motor to turn it from 15psi up to about 22-24. I daily drive the car in Pennsylvania even in winter. I'm running a pte3431 for turbo.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Thats a DAMN Good set of deals...And sounds like a nice setup for a daily.. Not sure I've seen PICS, post some up...

Best I've been able to get is a set of Genesis 415cc for $100 and a set of Siemen 660cc for $120 (for when boost goes WAY UP), a Turbonectics T3/T4 with manifold and Tial 38mm Wastegate(needs a rebuild and serious cleaning/polish), oil feed and drain for $475. The turbo was supposed to be good but it needed a rebuild and that set me back quite a bit.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Thats a DAMN Good set of deals...And sounds like a nice setup for a daily.. Not sure I've seen PICS, post some up...
> 
> Best I've been able to get is a set of Genesis 415cc for $100 and a set of Siemen 660cc for $120 (for when boost goes WAY UP), a Turbonectics T3/T4 with manifold and Tial 38mm Wastegate(needs a rebuild and serious cleaning/polish), oil feed and drain for $475. The turbo was supposed to be good but it needed a rebuild and that set me back quite a bit.




























I'll have to dig up some engine bay shots
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I have since installed a catch can to replace factory breather system and trimmed the rear hood seal being rain tray had to be trimmed/cut for the turbo 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## 99MK3VDUB (Dec 2, 2010)

roknroko16v said:


> I have since installed a catch can to replace factory breather system and trimmed the rear hood seal being rain tray had to be trimmed/cut for the turbo
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Looks good...Are you running a head spacer or double stacked gaskets? What HP are you putting down?

All I need now is Tune, Downpipe and FMIC/Piping and I'm set to install. Probably just going to get a Godspeed FMIC and piping kit off ebay and I ordered a UM 440cc tune for now. So Im getting really close to final assembly.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

99MK3VDUB said:


> Looks good...Are you running a head spacer or double stacked gaskets? What HP are you putting down?
> 
> All I need now is Tune, Downpipe and FMIC/Piping and I'm set to install. Probably just going to get a Godspeed FMIC and piping kit off ebay and I ordered a UM 440cc tune for now. So Im getting really close to final assembly.


Double stacked gaskets and even factory head bolts. HP wise I'm unsure but at my boost I'm at limit of factory pump which Ive heard is right around 240whp. I have a walbro inline and headstuds for new bottom end

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> 3500 got me to 400whp on my 8v.


sign me up bro!!!


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

In an 84 Rabbit
Precision HP5558 (billet) .63 A/R
3" MAF Housing
C2 Stage 2 Turbo Race Software
440CC Injectors
Tial Q BOV
Tial 38MM Wastegate
TT 276 CAM 276*, .445" lift, 114* lobe centers
TT Cam Gear
TT IM Shaft Gear
TT HD Valvesprings
LW Lifters
LW Drive Pulleys
CNC ABA Intake Manifold Flange for Short runner build
Boost Gauge
Wide Band A/F Gauge
BFI Stage 2 Motor Mounts
Custom SRI




















200 by johndavidf, on Flickr


100 by johndavidf, on Flickr


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

really nice man:thumbup:


----------



## tyler11 (Sep 21, 2011)

What degree coupler and pipe is that to your tb?


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Coupler is just a straight. Not sure the angle we bent to fit.

Fired it up for the first time tonight!

http://youtu.be/peJQF-cuLJU


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Coupler is just a straight. Not sure the angle we bent to fit.
> 
> Fired it up for the first time tonight!
> 
> ...


lol every aba turbo sounds the same :thumbup: Looks great and sounds better :laugh:


----------



## tyler11 (Sep 21, 2011)

I'm trying to get my ic piping situated but I don't want a junky setup with 30 couplers or stupid un needed bends everywhere


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Plan it that way! We ended up only using 4 couplers total. Well 5 including the intake pipe. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

In this article they explain something that could possibly explain why the VW engines seem to fail around 350whp on stock internals. I think the ring gap could be opened up and get more out of these engines stock. The failure I had could very easily have been related to this.

http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/engine/1213tr_vortec_5_3l_big_bang/viewall.html


----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

TIGninja said:


> I think the ring gap could be opened up and get more out of these engines stock. The failure I had could very easily have been related to this.


I've seen a few psitons that have cracked, or lost chunks around the ringlands. I always chocked it up to detonation damage, but I wonder how often if could have been caused by what's described here.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

I was snooping around the garrett site today, and they have a "turbo Adviser" tool that asks a bunch of questions about your specific setup... turns out that all the reccomended turbos are much smaller than the typical t3/t6 60 trim that is popular in the kenetics kit..

i put a goal of 300 crank, with midrange power at starting at 3500, and it spit out a T25 series turbo...

has anyone been using these series with good results ?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

redzone98 said:


> I was snooping around the garrett site today, and they have a "turbo Adviser" tool that asks a bunch of questions about your specific setup... turns out that all the reccomended turbos are much smaller than the typical t3/t6 60 trim that is popular in the kenetics kit..
> 
> i put a goal of 300 crank, with midrange power at starting at 3500, and it spit out a T25 series turbo...
> 
> has anyone been using these series with good results ?


The problem with smaller turbos is the torque cones on real early and quick which is hard on the factory 020 trans and usually ends up grenading them. The reason for the larger turbo is the top end and ease on power so trans holds up

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Anyone know where I can source a kinetic or SPA manifold? Need to install my Holset and no way is it going to fit on my ATP manifold I currently have.


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

roknroko16v said:


> The problem with smaller turbos is the torque cones on real early and quick which is hard on the factory 020 trans and usually ends up grenading them. The reason for the larger turbo is the top end and ease on power so trans holds up
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


Anyone who is still trying to use an O2O with a turbo needs to rethink their choices anyways.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

TIGninja said:


> Anyone who is still trying to use an O2O with a turbo needs to rethink their choices anyways.


20k miles since turbo at 15psi with stage 3 spec clutch and hard launches  no noises or grinds or clunks

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> The problem with smaller turbos is the torque cones on real early and quick which is hard on the factory 020 trans and usually ends up grenading them. The reason for the larger turbo is the top end and ease on power so trans holds up
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


I guess that makes sence, but area under the curve is what counts. It sucks waiting till 4500 rpm for some power, and wouldn't a huge surge of up from an oversized turbo be worse than a flat power band?


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> In this article they explain something that could possibly explain why the VW engines seem to fail around 350whp on stock internals. I think the ring gap could be opened up and get more out of these engines stock. The failure I had could very easily have been related to this.
> 
> http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/engine/1213tr_vortec_5_3l_big_bang/viewall.html


The failures I have seen on stock pistons are a result of the pin boss ripping out of the piston. Rings, ringlands and top of the pistons were in good shape.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

roknroko16v said:


> The problem with smaller turbos is the torque comes on real early and quick which is hard on the factory 020 trans and usually ends up grenading them. The reason for the larger turbo is the top end and ease on power so trans holds up
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


The torque spikes with really small turbos is also really hard on stock bottom ends (if you're doing a budget build).


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

For those who have they're turbos mounted like this:



How is everyone running they're intake/exhaust plumbing?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> For those who have they're turbos mounted like this:
> 
> 
> 
> How is everyone running they're intake/exhaust plumbing?


depends on what kind of intake manifold. for the dp i just welded a 3" vband flange straight to the housing and ran 3" full exhaust


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> depends on what kind of intake manifold. for the dp i just welded a 3" vband flange straight to the housing and ran 3" full exhaust


Short runner with drivers side throttle mounting. I need to figure out a good way to get my 38mm wastegate to cleanly attached to this damn SPA manifold too.


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## lbubbyj (Oct 22, 2004)

I've got that SPA manifold mounted that way. My 3" exhaust goes out the fender but it could easily make a 90 and go into the tunnel.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

I bought these pieces and welded it together.









I bought a 10ft stick of 3" then fabricated what would fit.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

lbubbyj said:


> I've got that SPA manifold mounted that way. My 3" exhaust goes out the fender but it could easily make a 90 and go into the tunnel.


How are you running your wastegate? Any close ups of the intake?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Mark Morris said:


> The failures I have seen on stock pistons are a result of the pin boss ripping out of the piston. Rings, ringlands and top of the pistons were in good shape.


When the rings cool back down they let go of the wall. I have seen a couple of failures from this on other cars (and that chevy engine has the same ring gap as ABA I believe) and they all look the same as what we had.

Here is an example.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

get a hole saw and use ALOT of lube and patience ( let the machine do the work) and then when you're ready to weld it. Heat it with a torch til it's a good 200*F and weld the flange on.


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## lbubbyj (Oct 22, 2004)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> How are you running your wastegate? Any close ups of the intake?


I'm running an internal waste gate. You can see it in the first pic.

You can see the intake a bit better in this one:


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> When the rings cool back down they let go of the wall. I have seen a couple of failures from this on other cars (and that chevy engine has the same ring gap as ABA I believe) and they all look the same as what we had.
> 
> Here is an example.


I understand that Chuckles, that is a different failure than the ones I have seen. You can tell looking at the rings and ringlands if they have butted and stuck. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but other parts of the piston can fail unrelated to the rings. We're talking used engines, so obviously conditions of the parts varies to begin with. :beer:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

so techtonics is officially working on a new turbo cam for me we will see how it pans out, will be a kick ass set up if they can get it to work


head is at the machines getting 43mm intake valves and 35 exhaust valves and full port and polish and flow bench numbers, 


nubworks if you have seen his work is doing my intake manifold but it will also be a larger set up than his normal stuff, custom cnc flange larger runners and maybe a larger plenum, 


exhaust manifold is done, equal length tubular that mounts the inlet of the turbo threw the hood facing forward to get all the cold air it needs, exhaust will either come out of the hood or threw the passanger side front fender, 


block is getting je pistons put In it droping to 8.5-1 compression with scat rods, and coated bearing from integrated engineering along with arp crank studs. 

next up is getting either a fx750 or 850 dual plate clutch for the six speed that is going behind the 2.0 then its on to fueling and other things, car will not be fully ready for this race season im shooting for 2015 season unless some sponsors come on board to I win the lotto. 

all going in a 87 coupe with lots of fat trimmed from it.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> so techtonics is officially working on a new turbo cam for me we will see how it pans out, will be a kick ass set up if they can get it to work
> 
> 
> head is at the machines getting 43mm intake valves and 35 exhaust valves and full port and polish and flow bench numbers,
> ...


Curious as to more cam info

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

you get that rear engine mount made yet?I'd take one:thumbup:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Still working on it trying to get it perfect I built a solid for me and working on one with delrin in it so it has some give


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Cam info will be a while as we have to see if it can be even done and then run it to see how it does


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Mark Morris said:


> I understand that Chuckles, that is a different failure than the ones I have seen. You can tell looking at the rings and ringlands if they have butted and stuck. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but other parts of the piston can fail unrelated to the rings. We're talking used engines, so obviously conditions of the parts varies to begin with. :beer:


That is exactly what my parts looked like when mine went. I wish I would have taken more pics. I do believe that this is the reason people have rod failures.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of my piston failure, but it was a lot diffferent than the piston above. The wrist boss ripped out cleanly from the underside of the piston and the rings and top of the piston looked perfect. The remains of the piston would still move freely in the bore.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

alittle cold weather fun

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202397241366371&l=405364334640017194

hope it works. Made it public


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> alittle cold weather fun
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202397241366371&l=405364334640017194
> 
> hope it works. Made it public


sweet Jesus !


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Mark Morris said:


> Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of my piston failure, but it was a lot diffferent than the piston above. The wrist boss ripped out cleanly from the underside of the piston and the rings and top of the piston looked perfect. The remains of the piston would still move freely in the bore.


They remain in the bore when the rings lock on to the cyl wall after they expand and touch where the gap is. When they cool down they shrink back down and you have a gap again. The wrist pin ripping out of the bottom is exactly what happens when the ring gap closes up under boost.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> They remain in the bore when the rings lock on to the cyl wall after they expand and touch where the gap is. When they cool down they shrink back down and you have a gap again. The wrist pin ripping out of the bottom is exactly what happens when the ring gap closes up under boost.


I understand that Chuck. I'm not saying it does not happen, just not what I experienced.

I also examined the ringlands, side of the piston and the rings when I took everything apart. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree what happened on my engine, lol.


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

**** happens when you turn the boost up. 
:beer::beer:


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## marshn07 (Nov 27, 2012)

May get flamed as I did start a thread but will probably get more answers within THIS thread, just looking at what you guys think I could turn the boost up safetly to without blowing my engine on the below setup.

2000 mk4 2.0 aeg jetta

Mods:
-Bone stock bottom end
-Tiny garret airesearch w/ internal waste gate. Not sure exactly of size but hot side turbine is stamped .42 inside the snail.
-Tt 266 AKA 270 cam
-Tt HD valve springs 
-C2 headspacer 
-Port and polish to intake/exhaust head and manifolds 
-42# injectors
-c2 stage 2 software with race tune on 91 octane
-3" MAF
-2.5" IC piping w/ FMIC

Just looking at what I could run safely at high boost setting without blowing anything up because I know I'll get bored at 8psi very quick. Once in excess of 20+ if thats even reachable now I will add an inline 044, fuel regulator and APR studs.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

marshn07 said:


> May get flamed as I did start a thread but will probably get more answers within THIS thread, just looking at what you guys think I could turn the boost up safetly to without blowing my engine on the below setup.
> 
> 2000 mk4 2.0 aeg jetta
> 
> ...


On a mk3 the factory fuel pump is limit at about 13-15 psi. I personally wouldn't push any higher then that amount without the ARP headstuds anyway. I'm mostly familiar with the aba engine internals vs the aeg but I know the aba can handle the abuse, the aeg I'm not sure on the strength of factory internals though

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> On a mk3 the factory fuel pump is limit at about 13-15 psi. I personally wouldn't push any higher then that amount without the ARP headstuds anyway. I'm mostly familiar with the aba engine internals vs the aeg but I know the aba can handle the abuse, the aeg I'm not sure on the strength of factory internals though
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


the AEG/AZG/AVH motors you're pushing it after 275whp/300wtq. Pistons and rods are highly recommended. 

If you're interested i sell IE's piston/rod packages to get the job done right the first time.:beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

marshn07 said:


> May get flamed as I did start a thread but will probably get more answers within THIS thread, just looking at what you guys think I could turn the boost up safetly to without blowing my engine on the below setup.
> 
> 2000 mk4 2.0 aeg jetta
> 
> ...


with a .42a/r it's clear that turbo is too small to hurt anything. You could wring it out to 20psi but it's most likely hot air at that point. Any idea which ford/volvo it came off of?


----------



## marshn07 (Nov 27, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> with a .42a/r it's clear that turbo is too small to hurt anything. You could wring it out to 20psi but it's most likely hot air at that point. Any idea which ford/volvo it came off of?


I it didn't come off anything, I got it brand new and it's not stamped for size anywhere which is weird. The side is stamped airesearch and the only company to make them is Garrett. It's not a large turbo but couldn't pass it up brand new for 200 bucks. We'll see how it handles but will most likely upgrade the turbo very soon once I get everything tweaked

EDIT: the intake of the turbo is 2" and so is the exhaust side. If that helps at all. I'm knowledgable with this stuff to a point but turbo sizes confuse the hell out of me, which is what I have turbo savy friends for


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

marshn07 said:


> I it didn't come off anything, I got it brand new and it's not stamped for size anywhere which is weird. The side is stamped airesearch and the only company to make them is Garrett. It's not a large turbo but couldn't pass it up brand new for 200 bucks. We'll see how it handles but will most likely upgrade the turbo very soon once I get everything tweaked
> 
> EDIT: the intake of the turbo is 2" and so is the exhaust side. If that helps at all. I'm knowledgable with this stuff to a point but turbo sizes confuse the hell out of me, which is what I have turbo savy friends for


 thats what i get for assuming... 90% of those air research turbos people grab come from some damn old car:laugh:

Anyway, with turbos if you cant pull a serial number of the CHRA plate then the only way to identify it's potential is to pull the covers and measure the wheels with a set of calipers. Compressor inducer size is usually the more important of the measurements. Turbine size will dictate whether you ever see the compressor's full potential. There's some more to it with sizing but thats just keeping it simple.


----------



## marshn07 (Nov 27, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> thats what i get for assuming... 90% of those air research turbos people grab come from some damn old car:laugh:
> 
> Anyway, with turbos if you cant pull a serial number of the CHRA plate then the only way to identify it's potential is to pull the covers and measure the wheels with a set of calipers. Compressor inducer size is usually the more important of the measurements. Turbine size will dictate whether you ever see the compressor's full potential. There's some more to it with sizing but thats just keeping it simple.


the turbo is packed up in the car right now and I get my ECU back from C2 today so im not gonna go tearing into and taking the turbo off just to find out a size just yet. I guess Ill have to live right now without knowing the actual size but i did start it up before i sent the ECU out and it was about to push boost at around 2600-2800 so its obviously a little turbo but it should be fun for the time being until i get a new turbo. Expecially fun because i've never owned nor driven a turbo vehicle before:laugh:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

another video lol

_done in Mexico of course _

http://youtu.be/K_LpCL5uTgE


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> another video lol
> 
> _done in Mexico of course _
> 
> http://youtu.be/K_LpCL5uTgE


you ever put a LSD in that beast ?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

das that is not your car is it i know your in a coupe unless you got something else, epic acceleration


on another note if anyone is looking for a tt 276 on 114lc super turbo cam shaft my one year old 6 drag days one is up for sale 


200 plus shipping obo, car was ran with castrol full syntec and changed every other drag day.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> das that is not your car is it i know your in a coupe unless you got something else, epic acceleration
> 
> 
> on another note if anyone is looking for a tt 276 on 114lc super turbo cam shaft my one year old 6 drag days one is up for sale
> ...


How'd you like it?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

redzone98 said:


> you ever put a LSD in that beast ?


Thats a peloquinn and vr6 gears.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> das that is not your car is it i know your in a coupe unless you got something else, epic acceleration
> 
> 
> 200 plus shipping obo, car was ran with castrol full syntec and changed every other drag day.



I'll never get rid of this car lol. Still the same coupe. The golf R went back to the owner


----------



## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

speaking of 2.0 turbos, does anyone know the safe rev ceiling of a obd2 8v without valve train mods? i want to go turbo on my dd but I dont want to have to take the head apart if i can get away with it.. stock engine, small turbo, no FMIC, low boost (6-8 psi MAX).. just want to beat on some VR's.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> das that is not your car is it i know your in a coupe unless you got something else, epic acceleration
> 
> 
> on another note if anyone is looking for a tt 276 on 114lc super turbo cam shaft my one year old 6 drag days one is up for sale
> ...


I'm curious as well as to how the wide lobe 276 was as well, been thinking of switching out my 268 for one finally

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

My Big said:


> speaking of 2.0 turbos, does anyone know the safe rev ceiling of a obd2 8v without valve train mods? i want to go turbo on my dd but I dont want to have to take the head apart if i can get away with it.. stock engine, small turbo, no FMIC, low boost (6-8 psi MAX).. just want to beat on some VR's.


they are good to like 6800 rpm with the single valve springs but dont worry to much lol


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> I'm curious as well as to how the wide lobe 276 was as well, been thinking of switching out my 268 for one finally
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


the 268 doesnt hold a candle to the wide 276...it's a lil mild down low but after 4k its GONE to 7500! :beer:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> the 268 doesnt hold a candle to the wide 276...it's a lil mild down low but after 4k its GONE to 7500! :beer:


Thanks for the info Quintin, that is enough motivation for me to ditch the 268 and go for the 276. If that's the case it should pair up very nicely on my current set up and even better if I ever finish my short runner

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> the 268 doesnt hold a candle to the wide 276...it's a lil mild down low but after 4k its GONE to 7500! :beer:


whats the difference between this 276 and the TT276 cam grinds ?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

redzone98 said:


> whats the difference between this 276 and the TT276 cam grinds ?


The standard tt276 is a 110 degree lobe center where the newer 276 that Techtonics sells is for forced induction and has a 114 degree lobe center so you have less over lap. The lift is also a miniscule amount less I think

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

roknroko16v said:


> The standard tt276 is a 110 degree lobe center where the newer 276 that Techtonics sells is for forced induction and has a 114 degree lobe center so you have less over lap. The lift is also a miniscule amount less I think
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


thanks for the info, i have the N/A 276, and was just thinking that cam would be bonkers for FI because of the overlap...


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Went for the first drive last night! Brakes were soft and had some linkage issues so I was only hitting 3rd and 4th... 
Also had a bad coolant flange... so gotta pickup a few parts and mess with that linkage and brakes! 

Heres a clip from 3rd gear


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I love the car man. you 02a/j or 020 in that thing?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

this cam woke my car up so much pulled or ever at 23psi, I never even played with cam timing it was just to good to mess with. 


the new cam I hope is the same kind of boost this cam was. we will see,


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Anybody have any sort of specs/angles/etc for custom sri's? I'm trading my rabbit back to my buddy for a mk3 that we're building and turboing (t3 turbo, 36# injectors, arp studs, compression at 8.5:1, AT 270 cam, probably c2 for chip, 94 aba OBD1) and I want to get an sri made for it by my uncle who's got a fully outfitted welding shop.

So if anyone has any diagrams or anything send them to me :thumbup: gonna be happy to be back in another mk3 2.0 but this time it'll be turbo'd lol


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> I love the car man. you 02a/j or 020 in that thing?


Thanks man! 020 for now. Have a spare with the diesel 5th. Need to order a clutch cause it's all stock right now... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RABBIT STEW (Jun 4, 2004)

ok folks.... Want opinions...was on Audizene and talking about Comp Turbos and got me thinking did i select the right turbo.... Not looking for major horsepower (maybe 320whp) want more fast spool.... So i will now be running a CT3 5356 Ceramic triplex bearings, Billet wheel and a .63ar exhaust side.... Extended tips ..... So anyone have opinions on spooling and efficiency? 

Keep in mind currently running a XSPOWER turbo that i have been lucky enough not to blow in 8 years..... 50\70 with a 0 trim and a .70ar exhaust housing and no bells and whistles...

Currently a 2.0aba with a g60 8v ported polished 2mm over-sized valves and 272 cam......44# injectors full BBM tune.....


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

g60 head? Also all Aba's with that exhaust housing (.63) should see full boost between 4500 and 5000 rpm. Maybe a little higher with stock intake manifolds


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

RABBIT STEW said:


> ok folks...... Not looking for major horsepower (maybe 320whp) want more fast spool....



at 320 WHP, pretty much that IS major HP for the 2.0L ABA


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

redzone98 said:


> at 320 WHP, pretty much that IS major HP for the 2.0L ABA


Not to mention nearing the limit of factory internals

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## RABBIT STEW (Jun 4, 2004)

That it is but a new block is under way.... It could easily produce more then 320whp if its less if good with that too.... but i want more reliability then making a statement... My big thing is to make sure it will be an efficient turbo for the components


----------



## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I know its probably a generic question that might get asked a lot, but i couldnt find a lot of info searching. What are the pro/cons of building your own kit vs the kinetic if you just wanted a small boost of power to make the car more fun?


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

you cant buy the Kenitics kit any more.... so have no other option.


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

coolalex said:


> I know its probably a generic question that might get asked a lot, but i couldnt find a lot of info searching. What are the pro/cons of building your own kit vs the kinetic if you just wanted a small boost of power to make the car more fun?


Pro 
Lots of Fun

Con
breaking stuff, custom fabrication, getting it right the first time. fitment.
More HP more stuff, more fitment, TUNING 











http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2394/MK3_2_0L_Turbo_Kit


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

REPOMAN said:


> http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/2394/MK3_2_0L_Turbo_Kit



This was just Yesterday,,,,,

-----Original Message-----
From: anthony [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2014 12:31 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: BBM Contact Form:mk3 Turbo Kit


Hello, I wish to know if the Kenetics Turbo Kit for the ABA is still
available ?


BBM:

Sorry no it is not


Sincerely,

Johnny Betz
President

BBM, LLC
642 SE STARK ST.
PORTLAND, OR 97214

Phone: 541.388.1202
Fax: 541.388.5685

www.BahnBrenner.com


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

building a low horse power kit is not to hard, some ebay piping and front mount along with a ebay manifold and a good rebuilt t3 off a Volvo or saab that can be picked up at a junk yard then rebuilt, then just some odds and ends, you can even make a down pipe that will mount to your stock exhaust, you could pretty easily build a starter kit for around a grand with tune and injectors.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

as far as the 320 hp on your tune you will be close to maxing out the injectors even bumping them to 4 bar, the buit block will handle well into 600 hp with the forged crank and arp main studs.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

New pic


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> New pic


whats going on there with the 2 vacuum actuators ?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

twin diverter valves. It gives me like 48mm of pressure relief. And If one blows I have a back up. Plus they're metal internals ones so they have lasted for like 3 years no problem.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> twin diverter valves. It gives me like 48mm of pressure relief. And If one blows I have a back up. Plus they're metal internals ones so they have lasted for like 3 years no problem.


Just stock OEM VW ones?

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Yes stock pen ones off of a tt225 I had the same set up held 23 psi all day and never had compressor surge it works great


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

I just would like a kit because of how easy it would be to bolt on and go. Money is not much of an issue.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> New pic


Looks great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

My latest.










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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> twin diverter valves. It gives me like 48mm of pressure relief. And If one blows I have a back up. Plus they're metal internals ones so they have lasted for like 3 years no problem.


thanks for the info, pretty trick


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Hi guys. 
I am putting together a simple kit on my obd1 mk3 gti. I will be slapping in a vrt latter but for this year i need alittle more outta my aba. I am running a rebuilt td turbo with the 2.2 chrysler hotside and some form of intercooler ( tbd). 
Anyone running this turbo on an aba? If so what kind of spool can i expect and how much boost are you guys running on a stock, but solid, bottom end
Thanks


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

.therealvrt said:


> Hi guys.
> I am putting together a simple kit on my obd1 mk3 gti. I will be slapping in a vrt latter but for this year i need alittle more outta my aba. I am running a rebuilt td turbo with the 2.2 chrysler hotside and some form of intercooler ( tbd).
> Anyone running this turbo on an aba? If so what kind of spool can i expect and how much boost are you guys running on a stock, but solid, bottom end
> Thanks


In my personal opinion that turbo is going to be very small and for off up top as it won't have the volume

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## RABBIT STEW (Jun 4, 2004)

yah i was thinking its pretty close... Jason said i could add another fpr and get even more fuel.... I guess at this point that's my cap... That bunny is way to scarey on full boost.... But my true thoughts on the whole 2.0 bottom end with somewhat high compression and a very very very High flowing head..... Im hoping that hits at full boost before 4k.... Done with this redline boost hits... Need it to be more efficient... lol


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

Thanks everyone for the inspiration to get started on my build, I just bought a 96 OBD2 jetta to grab the motor from and stick in my MK2 golf. Are you folks using aluminum boost piping and if so, do you weld it yourself, mock it up yourself and take it to a welder, or just take it to a shop? Anyone using painted steel piping for boost? Everything looks mandrel bent so surely this can't be muffler shop quality stuff right?

Where do you buy your boost and downpipe piping from?


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

I purchased materials from http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/

Had a buddy cut and weld from there! We used aluminum on everything and then ceramic coated all the parts


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## RABBIT STEW (Jun 4, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> g60 head? Also all Aba's with that exhaust housing (.63) should see full boost between 4500 and 5000 rpm. Maybe a little higher with stock intake manifolds



Wow thats odd... I am currently running a 50/70 o trim journal bearings and cast wheel.... and full boost is at 4800..... I would think a .63ar, billet wheel, triplex ceramic bb, smaller overall hot side should help it out a lot... im thinking more the 3200 range....


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

eh I check on the way home. Full boost me is 4500.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> eh I check on the way home. Full boost me is 4500.


what is "Full Boost" for you ? 22PSI ?


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## Dub-and-Destroy (Jul 6, 2011)

*turbo or not to turbo*

so i have been recently debating whether or not i should turbo my mk3 golf... obd ll aba.... it has high miles (185k) but it runs pretty good, dont know if it is wise to turbo it. i know these motors are strong and im not looking to make alot of power looking to find probably like a k26 or k28 borg...


what you you guys suggest?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

i would say go for it, put 10psi to it and leave It there, done even have to open the engine, if you want to go higher pull the head stack some gasket and arp stud the head then your good to 20+ psi


last years race engine ran 23psi on junk yard pistons with just a hone to the cylinders. only thing that made them fail was detenation due to high temps down the track. ( blew a ring landing lower compression on one cylinder) after that I still ran two more race days on that engine.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> New pic



what size line are you running on your catch can? im looking to re do mine with all an fitting and stainless braided line, was thinking -10 or -8 from valve cover and as the reroute to intake and like -8 or -6 to engine block


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

roknroko16v said:


> what size line are you running on your catch can? im looking to re do mine with all an fitting and stainless braided line, was thinking -10 or -8 from valve cover and as the reroute to intake and like -8 or -6 to engine block


-10 from block and valve cover.-6 to intake


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> -10 from block and valve cover.-6 to intake


Thanks, big help so I know how much to order of each now

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

for say $1000 max, what would be the best turbo for an auto-x setup?


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Auto x is all about not modifying your car for power. So the answer is none.


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## lbubbyj (Oct 22, 2004)

coolalex said:


> for say $1000 max, what would be the best turbo for an auto-x setup?


I have raced with both a junkyard Saab T3 turbo and a T3 Super 60 and they were both excellent for AutoX.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Did your car class well?


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## lbubbyj (Oct 22, 2004)

Our club the Sports Car Club of Vermont doesn't use the SCCA classing standard so classing wasn't a concern. 

When I autoXed my Rabbit 1.8t with the Sports Car Club of New Hampshire I was competitive in street modified. When car fully prepped to the SM class I would get beat pretty bad. The car was a Honda CRX with a supercharged K engine swap and 275mm autoX slicks so I didn't feel too bad.


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## Mr.Allinder (Feb 4, 2010)

Oil Feed Question:

Getting ready to start my build. Looking to get feed lines and return lines. Is there a simple kit or parts list that you guys have used? Thanks in advance!


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## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

Hey guys i have a 95 gti obd1 2.0 and im planning on building it turbo the turbo i have is a garrett m54 a/r .51 ,47 what are your opinions towards this turbo im planning on running it at 10 psi im not sure if thats a good number for this turbo and for my car what number do you think i can pull with it 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

That turbo should respond quickly it's about the same size as a t3t4 should see full boost around 3500 rpm at 10 psi you should be right around 200hp at the fly wheel


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## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

Daskoupe said:


> New pic


Is that 2 blowoff/diverter valves cleverly going back to the intake? If so, :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

My Big said:


> Is that 2 blowoff/diverter valves cleverly going back to the intake? If so, :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


yup


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe, Weren't you looking for sunroof delete? If you're on Facebook look up the mk2/mk3 page. This guy has one for sale










Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Pretty quiet in here when the lurkers have to post...
Hoping to have this thing breathing fire by spring. Hoping to have an oil line and downpipe sorted next weekend, then I'll at leaks be able to start it and hear the wee little turbo spool up a bit.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

yeah I have been slacking:laugh: I might do a good ole fly by video later


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

I'm just waiting on my seat brackets to come in so I can go for my first drive!!









Also here's a video of when the throttle cable got stuck lol








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## S***box (Feb 3, 2012)

Here is a friends car on the dyno. Pretty impressive for a quick build and only 8psi. Not sure what the details of the setup are.
http://youtu.be/rRxALePlK6k


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I h ave a ton of things going on with mine just waiting for things to get done and I'm working on the shell should have the cage here soon then a build thread will come as I get parts back I will not be racing this year 


I'm working on fixing a Audi I have to flip and use the money to finish the race car hoping it works outa


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

coolalex said:


> I just would like a kit because of how easy it would be to bolt on and go. Money is not much of an issue.


The Kit overprices a lot of **** that you dont really need or can get cheaper.

Turbo
Manifold
Wastegate (if you are running external)
Oil lines
Injectors
Intercooler and piping
Pressure Relief (BOV or Div.)
Exhaust
Wideband O2 sensor
Fuel/ Spark management (I have megasquirt, albeit an older version)


Then when you blow your trans or clutch you'll need to upgrade that as well. PM me and i can give you a specific list of **** to go buy.


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Flipdriver80 said:


> The Kit overprices a lot of **** that you dont really need or can get cheaper.
> 
> Turbo
> Manifold
> ...



I tried to pm but your box is full. that would be crazy helpful.


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

A little help, are you folks running a MAS w/ your motronic mngmt. I am building an ABA-T for a vanagon syncro and most of the work is done. 
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=582460&highlight=oregon+trail+syncro+build


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

Dub8r said:


> A little help, are you folks running a MAS w/ your motronic mngmt. I am building an ABA-T for a vanagon syncro and most of the work is done.
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=582460&highlight=oregon+trail+syncro+build


I forgot to mention that TT is going to write a chip for this thing......


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Dub8r said:


> A little help, are you folks running a MAS w/ your motronic mngmt. I am building an ABA-T for a vanagon syncro and most of the work is done.
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=582460&highlight=oregon+trail+syncro+build


I always wanted to do a swap like this at my shop. But when it came time for someone to pony up the cash they always back out. Please keep us updated. I didn't see a waste gate anywhere....?:thumbup:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Ya you will run a maf the c2 chip uses a vr6 3in housing with a stock aba sensor in it. 


I would love to check out the swap I'm local in milwaukie, this if the Clackamas you refure to is Oregon


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I always wanted to do a swap like this at my shop. But when it came time for someone to pony up the cash they always back out. Please keep us updated. I didn't see a waste gate anywhere....?:thumbup:


Rabbit Chaser, Im in Oregon City.(PM sent)

As far as the cost of the swap it has been expensive at times......However the web and wreckers have been a savings if you have more time than money. As a collective its been on par with a subie swap which is common in the vanagon community.

I have plumbing and wiring left and by plumbing i mean PS, coolant, intake and exhaust. By know means a short order. The waste gate has a 10 lb. spring and is on the underside of the turbo

At some point this weekend I need to go wrecking yard shopping for a VR6 MAF housing and throttle body......"Question," Can I use 1.8T boost controler,BOV etc.
The end goal here is to have around 200whp/200wtq.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Dub8r said:


> Rabbit Chaser, Im in Oregon City.(PM sent)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


All you need for 200whp is #30 injectors, and stg 1 software. Also the Factory DV's are cheap new and very good. You'll be fine with what you have.


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> All you need for 200whp is #30 injectors, and stg 1 software. Also the Factory DV's are cheap new and very good. You'll be fine with what you have.


What are/is DV's.........excuse my ignorance. I have been out of the cars for for a while and jumped in the deep end on the syncro.


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

Eureka, "Diverter Valve" so Is this best robbed from the 1.8T or some other Japenese car?


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Dub8r said:


> Eureka, "Diverter Valve" so Is this best robbed from the 1.8T or some other Japenese car?


1.8t ones work well, later model saab turbo cars also ran bosch diverter valves that are very similar. There are many other oem style DV's that could work, it's just a matter of how much work you want to put into making it work.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

for 10 psi and 200hp a stock diverter will work great, also what ecu are you running obsd1 or 2, as you can only get a stage 2 for obsd1 that would need 42# injectors. 


i got your pm and live right down the road in on oatfield so one of these days i will get over to see this thing. 


also you might know or met him i have a buddy whos name is chris 

has a vr6 powered vanagon along with a aba syncro. cool rides for sure. he works over at armstrong vw in gladstone.


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> for 10 psi and 200hp a stock diverter will work great, also what ecu are you running obsd1 or 2, as you can only get a stage 2 for obsd1 that would need 42# injectors.
> 
> 
> i got your pm and live right down the road in on oatfield so one of these days i will get over to see this thing.
> ...


Its OBD1, I have 30# reds. Today at the wreckers I got a couple of VR6 MAF's and VR throttle body (OBD1) and a couple of DV's from 1.8Ts

I have seen the syncro and another vanagon at Armstrong, I have not met the guys though.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

my setup

Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk


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## marshn07 (Nov 27, 2012)

Unfortunately I have to part with my AEG build to help pay to go back to school to get my masters in engineering. Feel free to check out the thread, figured this would be the perfect spot to post since ya'll are running 8vT's 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6931135-FULL-2-0-aeg-kit-feeler


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> my setup
> 
> Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk


is that one of the new Scientific Rabbit SRI?


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

No I made it. Im making some more if your interested. 

Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> No I made it. Im making some more if your interested.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk


how much?


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

yeah what he said. How much ?


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

We want $300.00 shipped in the u.s. only. Can also pick u[p @ 40's in a bag!


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> We want $300.00 shipped in the u.s. only. Can also pick u[p @ 40's in a bag!
> 
> 
> Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk


hmm will all I need is a VR6 throttle cable, also I'm obd2 so not sure if there are any needed holes for sensors etc. but def. interested…

:beer:


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

also I am running an NA setup currently, though I know the stock ABA manifold is pretty much garbage.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

I am also currently running OBD2. Manifolds will work with OBD1 &2 . Will come with holes drilled and tapped for all sensors and vaccum fittings. All that you'll need is your existing manifold bolts and a gasket. Will work well with both, turbo and N/A setups. Send me a PM for ordering info or any more info. Thanks!

Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

PM'd


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Ive done a lot of reading and research but a few questions guys,

Building a mk3 2.0 turbo right now obd1 and i think it'll be receiving a stock tranny when we swap it from automatic to manual.

Wondering who here is still on an 020 because i believe thats the stock tranny, and how fast you guys think i'll destroy it on a plain t3 13 psi setup. Will i blow it out in a week would it last a while (i know its all subjective but if you had to guess)

I want to know whether i should drop the money for a 02a/j swap now before we do the auto to manual swap or save some money now and wait till the tranny goes.

:thumbup:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Its going to hold just fine man


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Any of you guys running a muffler? 

I love the way my car sounds but it DAMN its loud lol... not sure how long the neighbors will be cool with it.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I run 2.5" downpipe, hollowed cat into a 2.5" mini resonator and then a 9" long straight through bullet muffler

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Thagodeus said:


> Ive done a lot of reading and research but a few questions guys,
> 
> Building a mk3 2.0 turbo right now obd1 and i think it'll be receiving a stock tranny when we swap it from automatic to manual.
> 
> ...


You'll be fine. Limited to about 140mph. You will go through axles frequently if your taking off from red lights, or punching it in 2nd.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> I'm curious as well as to how the wide lobe 276 was as well, been thinking of switching out my 268 for one finally
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2





PerkeyTurkey said:


> You'll be fine. Limited to about 140mph. You will go through axles frequently if your taking off from red lights, or punching it in 2nd.


LOL..i broke a new axle 10mins after install!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> LOL..i broke a new axle 10mins after install!


Axles? you mean monthly maintenance things that connect your wheel to the trans?

I haven't had to do an axle this year. Raised my car up to a senseable level and pre loading at the track has help alot/


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> Axles? you mean monthly maintenance things that connect your wheel to the trans?
> 
> I haven't had to do an axle this year. Raised my car up to a senseable level and pre loading at the track has help alot/


Yea...i dont recall but i think the replacement interval was every 20days :laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Guess I'll have to learn how to not crush gears haha and I'll have to stock up on axles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

1 more of bay. With IC routing

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> 1 more of bay. With IC routing
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


Sick


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Time for the new clutch 
http://youtu.be/gWPTyuCV9cw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Time for the new clutch
> http://youtu.be/gWPTyuCV9cw
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




****, well that was fast !!!


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

What clutch was that. Lol. Nice car!

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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

LOL it was the stock clutch with ???? miles on it.. 15PSI Im supposed to pickup a new 020 from a diesel this weekend. I have a Stage 2 Drag clutch from Southbend waiting to go in. so Glad the car is driving but really want to feel it pull. Looking for an LSD also... 

Is it worth doing LSD on an 020?


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

My opinion the 020 isnt worth any modding beyond NA power. Go 02A/J trust me you'll save in the long run.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Kevin black went fast with a o2o and a quaife, if you consider 10's to be fast. Idk what trans he was running when he dipped to a 9 off the top of my head.

Mark Morris also went 10's in a mk3 geared o2o with a spool.

Both are mk1's

other positive: o2o's are 17 pounds lighter, iirc from second hand research.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

020's will spools are not daily driver material. But I do agree that 020 can take that beating.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

A Quaife is totally daily drivable


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Impressive information i must say i have never personally seen an 020 "last" with respectable power, I guess its a gamble regardless to some degree.


----------



## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Not that I want to work in them or anything. Goofy ass transmissions.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

297 hp on my same 020/Quaife for 10 years. its not daily and I don't do burn outs on expansion joints, but its holds up fine. I have never ran 24.5 slicks because I wrench enough during the week, sunday fun day. your results may vary. 15 psi wastegate spring and 297 8v is respectful IMO.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I hear you I too am a VW master tech and in my personal experience i've replaced dozens of these in both customer cars as well as my own for diff failures or clutch failures under NA power. So to see that you have 10yrs on yours with almost 300 horse is nothing short of a miracle, if it "aint" broke dont fix it of course i just use history as my guide im sure you understand.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

here is what I have been working on there lately, hoping to have it done by this time next year


the head is at the machinest getting reworked hoping to have it back soon since it has been gone for 6 months ( my fault no time line given not in a huge hurry)

the bottom end is almost together hoping to have it complete and painted this weekend. 


pistons 8.5cr 83mm wiseco with anti friction coating on skirts 

scat rods with arp 2000 3/8 bolts. rifle drilled. 

arp main studs and acl calico coated main bearing installed 

with the aba obd1 forged crank 

rods and pistons all assemble with pistons rings gapped to .020 tops and .024 middle rings


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I also have a custom short runner built by the one and only nubworks the lower half is at the machinest getting matched to the ports on the flow bench then it will have a 4 inch plenem -8 fuel rail fitted for 1700cc bosch injectors. and a obd1 vr throttle body. I cant wait to get it all together and pimp it on here. its amazing machine and weld work. very happy to be running his stuff. 


also my exhaust manifold is done I will get a picture up, its a equal length tubular t4 flanged up pipe pretty much, turbo is going threw the hood for intake exhust might come out of the hood also we will see how it all fits. also running a 50mm wastegate with dump out the hood maybe also. 


pics 



I will start a build thread here soon have a ton of other parts for the car which is a 1987 jetta coupe.


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Anxiously awaiting that


is this thing on?


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

yeah open diffs are time bombs.  jim @ racecraft milled the coolant pipes off my obd1 vr TB. It made a perfect place for my second water meth nozzle, esp the way the TB opens. Mine is from a corrado, which i found the tps cost more than the other obd1 vr tb. hate it when free parts cost money. tgif


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

Looking good Ryan. 16 days until the first race. I'm ready are you?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

don not even close I will be there this year but watching, next year hoping it will be done and ready for the 9s


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Couldn't really find anything detailed or for 2.0's when i searched around,

Does anyone have a DIY thread for wiring up a walbro inline pump? Didn't realize they were so reasonably priced, but not sure i want to order one unless its not a biatch to install

Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Thagodeus said:


> Couldn't really find anything detailed or for 2.0's when i searched around,
> 
> Does anyone have a DIY thread for wiring up a walbro inline pump? Didn't realize they were so reasonably priced, but not sure i want to order one unless its not a biatch to install
> 
> Thanks :thumbup:


Type "mk3 VW walbro install" in Google. First link should be a write up with detailed instructions from USRT 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Thagodeus said:


> Couldn't really find anything detailed or for 2.0's when i searched around,
> 
> Does anyone have a DIY thread for wiring up a walbro inline pump? Didn't realize they were so reasonably priced, but not sure i want to order one unless its not a biatch to install
> 
> Thanks :thumbup:


Inline pump actually helped me dramatically, I was having an issue when I would get close to redline with fuel cut. When I installed the inline I could take it to 6700 rpm with out a problem so I'd deff think it's worth the trouble to install. Keep in mind when you add electric accessories you take more amperage from the alt which some people miss and sometimes dnt realize why there cars are acting funny,. If it seems to draw a lot of power swap the 90amp alt for the Vr 120amp and your good


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

cifdig said:


> Inline pump actually helped me dramatically, I was having an issue when I would get close to redline with fuel cut. When I installed the inline I could take it to 6700 rpm with out a problem so I'd deff think it's worth the trouble to install. Keep in mind when you add electric accessories you take more amperage from the alt which some people miss and sometimes dnt realize why there cars are acting funny,. If it seems to draw a lot of power swap the 90amp alt for the Vr 120amp and your good


I was having same problem at anything above 13psi on mine until I put pump in. Now I'm at 18-19psi

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

roknroko16v said:


> I was having same problem at anything above 13psi on mine until I put pump in. Now I'm at 18-19psi
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


 Yea it's deff an upgrade I wouldn't pass up


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

roknroko16v said:


> Type "mk3 VW walbro install" in Google. First link should be a write up with detailed instructions from USRT
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


Haha thanks for that :facepalm: i guess when i first saw it something made me think it was vr-specific and i had to find a 2.0 one. Definitely ordering the walbro though. Gonna be at 13 psi daily on an OBD1 forged 2.0 on 36# injectors but if i ever turn it up a hair or 2 i don't want to have to worry. (arp studs are already in possession for this build too to not worry about the head lifting lol)


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Thagodeus said:


> Haha thanks for that :facepalm: i guess when i first saw it something made me think it was vr-specific and i had to find a 2.0 one. Definitely ordering the walbro though. Gonna be at 13 psi daily on an OBD1 forged 2.0 on 36# injectors but if i ever turn it up a hair or 2 i don't want to have to worry. (arp studs are already in possession for this build too to not worry about the head lifting lol)


I've had factory head bolts for past 24k miles. Only finally putting head studs in when I rebuild. No issues thus far

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

you dont need to worrry about lifting the head on these things. :beer:


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

root beer said:


> Kevin black went fast with a o2o and a quaife, if you consider 10's to be fast. Idk what trans he was running when he dipped to a 9 off the top of my head.
> 
> Mark Morris also went 10's in a mk3 geared o2o with a spool.
> 
> ...


Kevin went 9's on an 020-- Orange Crush ran an 020 until retirement.

The lighter the car, the better luck you'll have with an 020 (yeah, obvious. I know). They can and will break, like anything-- driving style, level of abuse, power/ torque, vehicle weight, tires, etc all play into it. 02A is stronger and has a lot more clutch and gearset options, but an 020 can work.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Hey guys I posted a thread about this but I thought I might slip a quick question into here. I know at around 14-15psi ill need to upgrade to an inline fuel pump, but at what psi/power level do I need to upgrade my fuel rail? Should I look into an FPR? 
Thanks guys


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> Hey guys I posted a thread about this but I thought I might slip a quick question into here. I know at around 14-15psi ill need to upgrade to an inline fuel pump, but at what psi/power level do I need to upgrade my fuel rail? Should I look into an FPR?
> Thanks guys


I couldn't run more then 13psi on factory pump. Around 20-22 you add a 4 bar fpr

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Right on man, thanks for the info. Anything on the rail?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> Right on man, thanks for the info. Anything on the rail?


No idea to be honest. 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Hey guys I posted a thread about this but I thought I might slip a quick question into here. I know at around 14-15psi ill need to upgrade to an inline fuel pump, but at what psi/power level do I need to upgrade my fuel rail? Should I look into an FPR?
> Thanks guys


I wouldn't worry about the factory fuel rail. If you get any where near maxing-out the flow of the rail, you will be running a fabricated intake manifold, and with that an "aftermarket" extruded-style fuel rail. 

As far as the fuel pressure regulator, it depends on the power level, fuel pump used, type of fuel, and injector size. You only need to change the fpr if you need to change the fuel pressure setting or the fuel rail configuration (aftermarket rail).


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Awesome, thanks for the input fellas.


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 020's will spools are not daily driver material. But I do agree that 020 can take that beating.


the 020 can handle the beating its the clutch that cant hang.


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

So Im re doing my ABA turbo and this time around the turbo manifold and turbo are being replaced. Im having a very hard time finding a turbo manifold. If anyone could direct me to someone who can build me a manifold or anyone who has a cast manifold with external waste gate mount that would be great. need to move forward here and I have been searching incessantly and have found nothing.. thanks guys.


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Make one.

is this thing on?


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> Make one.
> 
> is this thing on?


I would love to..but i dont have a welder nor have i learned to weld.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I could make you one in about 3 months lol. Q you still making your ram horns?


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I could make you one in about 3 months lol. Q you still making your ram horns?


how much to make one in a month?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> I could make you one in about 3 months lol. Q you still making your ram horns?


i will be this fall when i move to florida and get my garage setup. :beer:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Flipdriver80 said:


> how much to make one in a month?


easily in the 600-700 dollar range for a ram horn style


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

well if you guys come across any or want to build me one id be more than happy to compensate you. I just need something good. thanks!


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

Is there a coolant flange for the side of the head that will fit the ABA that DOESNT have the hose for the heater core? Im not running heat in my car and i would like to keep it as simple as possible. currently i just have a small piece of hose off of it and it is blocked.


----------



## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Kennethcano said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Setup?


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Does anyone know what company produces this beaut? It doesn't look home brewed. 

Thanks


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Migfab?

is this thing on?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

that is a home brew. Look at that injector port........


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Kennethcano said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


what manifold are you using that places the wastegate there? custom?


----------



## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

I'm not sure what manifold this is, I just bought this car, it's a tail 38 mm external wastegate, super 60 turbo and pushing 11 psi 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Turn up the boost.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Daskoupe said:


> that is a home brew. Look at that injector port........


Good point. Still looks like someone put time into making it


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Does anyone know what company produces this beaut? It doesn't look home brewed.
> 
> Thanks


Holy warp batman. Nice work though

is this thing on?


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## dailygolfer (Mar 16, 2013)

Is a 276 too big of a cam to run for boost if there is such a thing?


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

No I run 276

is this thing on?


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## dailygolfer (Mar 16, 2013)

Awesome, planning on going ABAt on a 97 2.0 Golf.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

dailygolfer said:


> Awesome, planning on going ABAt on a 97 2.0 Golf.


Make sure you get the turbo 276 cam with a wide lobe. Not the regular n/a 276

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## dailygolfer (Mar 16, 2013)

Hmm not sure about that, I'll have to check.


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## dailygolfer (Mar 16, 2013)

Unfortunately its a 276 n/a... Looks like I'll have to swap em out


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

what size intercooler and intake pipes is everyone running? I'm re working my whole set up now that i finally got a short runner. My old set up consisted of 2in intercooler pipes all around, and a 2.25 intake. im thinking about bumping up the ic pipes from out of the ic to the short runner to a 2.5 and having the intake bumped up to a 2.5 as well, and keeping the turbo to ic pipe 2 in since that is one pipe i can leave untouched. 

also should note that i am running a volvo 740 intercooler the end tanks are only 2 inches in diameter...its small i know, but it works.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> what size intercooler and intake pipes is everyone running? I'm re working my whole set up now that i finally got a short runner. My old set up consisted of 2in intercooler pipes all around, and a 2.25 intake. im thinking about bumping up the ic pipes from out of the ic to the short runner to a 2.5 and having the intake bumped up to a 2.5 as well, and keeping the turbo to ic pipe 2 in since that is one pipe i can leave untouched.
> 
> also should note that i am running a volvo 740 intercooler the end tanks are only 2 inches in diameter...its small i know, but it works.


2" out of turbo and 2.5" to tb/intake. Intercooler is 2.5" inlets 


















Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## MirkwoodWarrior (Feb 11, 2013)

Lurked a plethora of pages here figured I'd post now that I'm part of the club...kinda need a fuel pump the it should be able to drive










Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

MirkwoodWarrior said:


> Lurked a plethora of pages here figured I'd post now that I'm part of the club...kinda need a fuel pump the it should be able to drive
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very cool man post up some more detailed pics looks like a clean set up.


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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

Picked up my motor from the machine shop this past weekend, figured I'd let it be known I'm still here. However it's most likely going to be a while until it's time to start it up.

I was pretty happy with the numbers the head little 8v head put out on the flow bench;

Lift : Exhaust : Intake
.100 : 100cfm : 117cfm
.200 : 122cfm : 145cfm
.300 : 145cfm : 198cfm
.400 : 154cfm : 214cfm
.450 : 156cfm : 214cfm


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

What all is fine to the head? I'm waiting for mine to come back I have the block all assembled and painted


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)




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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

I havent had a build thread or anything for this car so I will just post it here..


started out like this in 2007









then was this in 2009









bought this..









swapped it to manual from auto and drove it for 3 years put coils on it..









then i bought this...









and then this happened...




































So the motor from the Jetta is going into the Golf. The Jetta is gone.
Car is:
89 Golf
MS1 Extra V2.2
ABA overbored .040 (makes it just over a true 2.0l)
Wiseco Pistons
ACT lightweight flywheel
G60 clutch w VR6 Pressure plate
02A with Peloquin
-6 fuel lines throughout
044 fuel pump
630CC injectors (was 440 but duty cycle was getting scarce)
whole lotta other ****

brand new:
Main seals, Intermediate shaft seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket, oil flange seal.
clutch master and clutch slave cylinder 
Hard brake lines throughout 
tie rods and ends
ball joints
poly steering rack bushings
front subframe bushings

this is what the engine looked like in the jetta and what it will look nearly like in the golf.


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## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

Hey guys im in the process of building an aba turbo and the piping I have is in 2.5" and 3" the intercooler I have has 3" inlets so I was plannig on running the 3" on the hot side (coming from the turbo ) the turbo I have is a garrett m54 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

D3hd3nd said:


> I was pretty happy with the numbers the head little 8v head put out on the flow bench;
> 
> Lift : Exhaust : Intake
> .100 : 100cfm : 117cfm
> ...



DAMN SOLID NUMBERS! :beer::what:


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

andresfel said:


> Hey guys im in the process of building an aba turbo and the piping I have is in 2.5" and 3" the intercooler I have has 3" inlets so I was plannig on running the 3" on the hot side (coming from the turbo ) the turbo I have is a garrett m54
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


i wouldnt advise you to vary the piping size. just use couplers to connect to your intercooler that change from 2.5" to 3"


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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

rabbitchaser said:


> What all is fine to the head? I'm waiting for mine to come back I have the block all assembled and painted


The head is P&P (done by BBM), 3 angle valve job, HD springs, Ti retainers, TT wide LSA 276 cam, MK4 lifters and new guides/seals





[email protected] said:


> DAMN SOLID NUMBERS! :beer::what:


Thanks Q I'm pretty stoked, it's going to compliment the holsets ability to move lots of air :laugh:


----------



## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

D3hd3nd said:


> The head is P&P (done by BBM), 3 angle valve job, HD springs, Ti retainers, TT wide LSA 276 cam, MK4 lifters and new guides/seals
> 
> 
> 
> ...




nice to see my old ride getting the care it deserves :thumbup::thumbup:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Hoping mine will flow like yours or maybe a bit better mine is getting p&p from a local aba guy that was refered to m by many people, also from Collin at tt, techtonics largest valve set, custom short runner flow matched to the intake ports, and a custom one off cam that I will be testing hoping to have it running this time next year it will be on e85 and lugtronics


----------



## dailygolfer (Mar 16, 2013)

What's it cost to get a head ported, polished, and decked, roughly?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Couple company's do cnc porting for 500 or so


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## dailygolfer (Mar 16, 2013)

I figured, is it mandatory to have a used head decked before reinstallation? I have an OBD1 head that I'm putting on my car as part of my build.


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## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

dailygolfer said:


> I figured, is it mandatory to have a used head decked before reinstallation? I have an OBD1 head that I'm putting on my car as part of my build.


definitely recommended when it comes to boost applications.I had a small leak off passenger side of my head that would increase after hard driving. the head was lifting. installed arp studs and it still did it. got head rebuilt and decked. no problem since.


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

rabbitchaser said:


> Hoping mine will flow like yours or maybe a bit better mine is getting p&p from a local aba guy that was refered to m by many people, also from Collin at tt, techtonics largest valve set, custom short runner flow matched to the intake ports, and a custom one off cam that I will be testing hoping to have it running this time next year it will be on e85 and lugtronics


Since you're upgrading to a larger valve set and the guy doing your P&P sounds very reputable you should have considerably better flow than my head (I'm on stock valves)



VWDugan said:


> nice to see my old ride getting the care it deserves :thumbup::thumbup:


:beer:


----------



## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

Would vr6 injectors work for 10 - 12 psi ? Also the car is on haltech sprint 500 ecu

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## starksan (Mar 30, 2013)

D3hd3nd said:


> Picked up my motor from the machine shop this past weekend, figured I'd let it be known I'm still here. However it's most likely going to be a while until it's time to start it up.
> 
> I was pretty happy with the numbers the head little 8v head put out on the flow bench;
> 
> ...


Do you have pictures of the cylinder head?


----------



## MirkwoodWarrior (Feb 11, 2013)

Since I can't get any hits on FI thread maybe someone here could help me. Just got my abat set up however it will not drive. It idles perfect, goes in reverse perfect, however when I drive in first it stutters and dies once under load. We have checked all boost leaks, vacuume leaks don't seem to be it. I have 42# injectors with UM software and maf is right size. The only abnormality is I have a headspacer and adjustable cam gear which was NOT written onto the chip... could this cause it? Otherwise we are going to time it again (for the third time) going to pull all my spark plugs, (gapped to 23) and see. Any help of trying to figure it out would be appreciated! I realize this isn't a help thread but everywhere else I posted I got ignored. 

Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Is it obd1 or obd2?


----------



## MirkwoodWarrior (Feb 11, 2013)

obd2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

fuel pressure at the rail? did you try a throttle body adapt?


----------



## MirkwoodWarrior (Feb 11, 2013)

Yes and Yes lol we are going to try and take off the intake manifold and re instal it, see if there is maybe a vaccume leak we cant hear underneath or something. But SOON ill have pics of it actually driving haha


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Sounds either like your timing is off...or your starving it of fuel.


----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Getting pretty close...Tune, injectors, oxygen sensors, and a few misc vacumm lines and I should see positive intake manifold pressure this weekend. 
Hood down. ZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZ

Hood up.


Not too shabby for a few hundred bucks worth of gear.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

andresfel said:


> Would vr6 injectors work for 10 - 12 psi ? Also the car is on haltech sprint 500 ecu
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


no, get some real injectors to go with that ecu. :beer:


----------



## MirkwoodWarrior (Feb 11, 2013)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Sounds either like your timing is off...or your starving it of fuel.


Yeah we are going to re do timing again see if we messed something up somehow thanks for all the input though I really appreciate it

Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk


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## Junkyarddawg (Dec 5, 2013)

Monitor fuel pressure at the supply side of the rail and verify against specs, should match fp regulator setting.
A fuel volume test is also easy to perform at the same time. These tests are important and need to be verified.
obviously if you have obd2 you should scan the car as well and verify any fault codes. Another tool I highly rrcomend for monitoring and diagnosis is wideba.d afr gauge .


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Changed a few things up in my bay today


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

^ Your IC piping bends look very nice, if your exhaust is anything like that your car must breathe extremely well

Also i like your setup alot, not to clean but not to dirty :beer:


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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

starksan said:


> Do you have pictures of the cylinder head?


Per your request (cell phone camera pictures but not to shabby)

Intake



Exhaust


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

D3hd3nd said:


> ^ Your IC piping bends look very nice, if your exhaust is anything like that your car must breathe extremely well
> 
> Also i like your setup alot, not to clean but not to dirty :beer:


Yea it's not quite finished yet. Literally took the picture after I finished welding up the intake and tb-intercooler pipe. It'll be cleaned up a bit, but definitely function over form for me.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/261041042504

Anyone have any experience with this piece?


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> http://m.ebay.com/itm/261041042504
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this piece?


No but Ross Machine sells very nice stuff


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> http://m.ebay.com/itm/261041042504
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this piece?


looks like a decent machined piece. you could run braided lines with it.


Do try and support your vendors tho!

:wave::wave:


http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_119&products_id=1801]

CLICKY! ^


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

I am running the RMR










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> I am running the RMR



That is a great looking setup!


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice thanks for the input.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

D3hd3nd said:


> Picked up my motor from the machine shop this past weekend, figured I'd let it be known I'm still here. However it's most likely going to be a while until it's time to start it up.
> 
> I was pretty happy with the numbers the head little 8v head put out on the flow bench;
> 
> ...


The picture won't show for me.....Personally I've never seen above a 195cfm on the intake side at .450" much less 214cfm. I'd be interested to see the flow chart......Also it is extremely hard to believe that at a mere .1" of lift ANY 8v head flows over 100cfm on the intake, ESPECIALLY when a stock head only flows ~142cfm at .450" of lift (intake), and a mere 45cfm at .1" lift (intake). :sly: Hell my solid lifter big valve head with shaved guides, shaved stems, and a 5 angle valve job flows less than half that at .1". Not trying to sound like a d*ck, I just wanna see it.



andresfel said:


> Would vr6 injectors work for 10 - 12 psi ? Also the car is on haltech sprint 500 ecu
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


They're probably the same as yours.....All the obd2 injectors should be the same IIRC. They're all 19#.


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

PBWB said:


> The picture won't show for me.....Personally I've never seen above a 195cfm on the intake side at .450" much less 214cfm. I'd be interested to see the flow chart......Also it is extremely hard to believe that at a mere .1" of lift ANY 8v head flows over 100cfm on the intake, ESPECIALLY when a stock head only flows ~142cfm at .450" of lift (intake), and a mere 45cfm at .1" lift (intake). :sly: Hell my solid lifter big valve head with shaved guides, shaved stems, and a 5 angle valve job flows less than half that at .1". Not trying to sound like a d*ck, I just wanna see it.


No offense taken, I'm right there with you and was/am in disbelief of the numbers myself. I'm simply taking the shops word.

See if this works for pictures;

http://s49.photobucket.com/user/D3hd3nd/media/IMG_20140404_162404095_zpsf7a9b81b.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s49.photobucket.com/user/D3hd3nd/media/IMG_20140404_162345187_zps7eac0b90.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Almost done!

is this thing on?


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

D3hd3nd said:


> No offense taken, I'm right there with you and was/am in disbelief of the numbers myself. I'm simply taking the shops word.
> 
> 
> > I'm glad you took it so well-- I was going to post the same but didn't want you or anyone else to take it as a personal attack.
> ...


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> D3hd3nd said:
> 
> 
> > No offense taken, I'm right there with you and was/am in disbelief of the numbers myself. I'm simply taking the shops word.
> ...


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

No worries, I am going to call the machine shop and ask them how exactly they ran the flow test and I'll post back with what they say as I'm in disbelief of the numbers as well. And I agree, I'm not a numbers whore, it's going to get put together and ran. Plus I'm running a Holset turbo, it'll throw plenty of air into the motor as is . Taking things personally over the internet is foolish (very misleading) and i love when people question/criticize, makes room for improvement :beer:

On the topic of ABA turbo setups, sometimes i wish i worked in a shop (set hours) and didn't own one so i could start putting this damn thing together :banghead:

Also a question i have; has anyone ran the BEP .70AR housing for the Holset HX35. I knife edged/ported the stock 12cm housing already but if the BEP housing is going to flow better and decrease lag time (no plans to get a twin scroll manifold at this time) I'd go that route. I've done my reading/research just looking for more "up to date" information/opinions. Imagine money isn't an issue, I'm not looking to hear "well if you already worked the stock housing it should be fine". Or possibly the Tim's Turbo .62 housing (i will post this in the holset thread as well)


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Honestly with those flow numbers stick with the OEM turbine housing knife edged like you got it. i was seeing 20psi by 3700...you dont want the smaller housing. I was only flowing 160cfm intake and 120cfm exhaust at .400 lift :beer:


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Honestly with those flow numbers stick with the OEM turbine housing knife edged like you got it. i was seeing 20psi by 3700...you dont want the smaller housing and only flowing 160cfm intake and 120cfm exhaust at .400 lift :beer:


I can live with that. Your the man Q, thanks again for all the help along the way :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

D3hd3nd said:


> I can live with that. Your the man Q, thanks again for all the help along the way :thumbup:


Not a problem. Just in case you were a tad confused i fixed my comment above. I see being tired kept me from being able to form proper sentences. :laugh:

Your car is going to be NUCKIN FUTS. Hope you have invested in good tires and VR axles at least.


----------



## Flipdriver80 (Jul 17, 2004)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> Almost done!
> 
> is this thing on?


diggin it. any pics of the rest of the IC piping. why did you put it through the fender?


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

I do. I just thought it would look neater and it's a little different. I've never seen it done with an aba. 








is this thing on?


----------



## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> I do. I just thought it would look neater and it's a little different. I've never seen it done with an aba.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I really like how you did that, i see it as Form over Function and added lag time (not bashing just an my thought). Very unique props for thinking outside of the box :thumbup:


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## Geno-Bob (Feb 7, 2006)

D3hd3nd said:


> I really like how you did that, i see it as Form over Function and added lag time (not bashing just an my thought). Very unique props for thinking outside of the box :thumbup:


Gives it a much cleaner engine bay. I like it!

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> I do. I just thought it would look neater and it's a little different. I've never seen it done with an aba.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I personally would weld that joint...

Never have to worry about it popping off...


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Q- trust me I definitely wanted to... but then I thought about if I ever had to remove it....how much of a nightmare it would be.

is this thing on?


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

It's actually less length in pipe then it would have been also.

is this thing on?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> Q- trust me I definitely wanted to... but then I thought about if I ever had to remove it....how much of a nightmare it would be.
> 
> is this thing on?


As long as there is a 2nd clamp and a bead on that top pipe, you're good to go.....no worries there.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

It's definitely beaded. For safety 

is this thing on?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> As long as there is a 2nd clamp and a bead on that top pipe, you're good to go.....no worries there.


Yea Apple you say that.... A little bit of oil vapor and boost works wonders Lol.

OP, I would have put the coupler on the straight section inside the engine bay that way if you had to remove it you just pull straight out.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Yea Apple you say that.... A little bit of oil vapor and boost works wonders Lol.
> 
> OP, I would have put the coupler on the straight section inside the engine bay that way if you had to remove it you just pull straight out.


Ehhh, Chuck still runs worm gear clamps and says he's never had a failure (which I'll admit is hard to believe)....As long as it's beaded nice and beefy and torqued right there shouldn't be any issues.

I definitely agree with that though....both couplers inside the bay so if you had to disconnect stuff, the pipe stays right in the fender. Is it REALLY shorter than running a conventional route though? It's definitely different but it does kinda seem like it's longer....Not that it really matters at all, it'll spool just fine, more of a curiosity kind of question.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Maybe it's not shorter. .. but I like it. And it spools Amazing. Better then my old setup. Lol









is this thing on?


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## MirkwoodWarrior (Feb 11, 2013)

Anybody know what line the ecs fuel pressure regulator gauge splices into? I can't find any instructions online

Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Got my new set up running and driving this weekend with the Shortrunner and extrusive fuel rail. 

Still have the 3 bar fpr used in conjunction with the rmr fpr adapter. OBD1 C2 stage 2 turbo chip. (440cc, 3in maf, cam etc.)
I pretty much expected to run lean after adding the parts to my setup, and needless to say that I am....what's the best way to add some fuel without converting to standalone? 

Would love to get some feedback from those that have been where I'm at now. 

Thanks guys.


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Lean? Really? 

is this thing on?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Got my new set up running and driving this weekend with the Shortrunner and extrusive fuel rail.
> 
> Still have the 3 bar fpr used in conjunction with the rmr fpr adapter. OBD1 C2 stage 2 turbo chip. (440cc, 3in maf, cam etc.)
> I pretty much expected to run lean after adding the parts to my setup, and needless to say that I am....what's the best way to add some fuel without converting to standalone?
> ...


How much boost are you running? Shouldnt be running lean....I'm running 3bar fpr at 18psi with obd1 c2 stage # low compression file and full throttle full boost I'm at about 10.8-11/1 on wideband. Still on factory full rail too. 

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

To Perky:

Yeah. That software is made to run proper. Either your boost is too high, or you aren't getting enough fuel fro the pump. Do you have an inline pump as well?


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Something is definitely wonky

is this thing on?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> Something is definitely wonky
> 
> is this thing on?


you have an inline pump?


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Not wonky with my setup. I should have used quotes. With perky turkey

is this thing on?


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Hmm....I'm only at 12 pounds lol. Waste gate pressure. I have an innovate gauge. Maybe I just have to recalibrate the damn thing again.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Yes I have an inline pump. I'll test that too, to see if it's pumping out the right voltage. Maybe swap it out for a new one. Overlooked that piece. Thanks gents


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

What's your a/f? @perky turkey

is this thing on?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Yes I have an inline pump. I'll test that too, to see if it's pumping out the right voltage. Maybe swap it out for a new one. Overlooked that piece. Thanks gents


At 12psi the factory pump should supply more then enough fuel


Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

roknroko16v said:


> At 12psi the factory pump should supply more then enough fuel
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


You are correct. I have a walbro because I used to run crazy boost. The problem was the fuel pump. Changed it out, now my a/f's are spot on. Videos to come


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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> You are correct. I have a walbro because I used to run crazy boost. The problem was the fuel pump. Changed it out, now my a/f's are spot on. Videos to come


Glad to hear you got your problem solved. For future builds, I'd suggest going with the Bosch 044 pump :thumbup:


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## CAH8 (Dec 22, 2011)

How do you guys have your upgraded fuel pumps wired in? Could somebody PM me or post pics, thanks


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

CAH8 said:


> How do you guys have your upgraded fuel pumps wired in? Could somebody PM me or post pics, thanks


In Google type in mk3 walbro fuel pump install, a PDF file from usrt comes up with detailed wiring instructions. I'd send you the file but its at home on my laptop

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## jettred3 (Aug 5, 2005)

What size silicone coupler have you found to fit an ABA Throttle body?


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

jettred3 said:


> What size silicone coupler have you found to fit an ABA Throttle body?


Mine is either 2.5" or 2.75" I can't remember off hand

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

jettred3 said:


> what size silicone coupler have you found to fit an aba throttle body?


obd1 2.75" obd2 2.5"


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So finally dynoed my setup. Put down 240whp at 16psi but was breaking up really bad above 6k and running rich :/
Obd1 setup
C2 low compression stg2
440 injectors
Double stacked gaskets
TT 268 cam
Precision 57trim
Stock motor with 177k
38mm wastegate


Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

turn it up!


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

After 28 months I FINALLY have the turbo on my car. It's been a long long wait but I think it'll prove worth it. If I can get photo bucket to cooperate I'll put up pics but here are the basics:

92 Corrado SLC with a 70K mile 97 (OBD2) ABA TT260/256 cam and adjustable gear advanced 4* (for now) Stock internals, no headspacer

Borg Warner EFR 6258 turbo (it took 10 months just to get the darn thing) on a SPA log manifold

custom 3" down pipe and exhaust to the rear beam

TT 2.5 Borla with resonator the rest of the way back

custom mid runner manifold with Ross machine velocity stacks in the plenum , 97 eclipse side mount I/C

Seimens/Deka 630 cc injectors, LS truck coils, Innovate LC-1

MS3-Pro ECU with 3 bar GM Map sensor.

I have just started tuning the thing so bear with me


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Hey guys i have a question in new and just bought a mk2 with ABA turbo swap. The exhaust on it is too quiet for my liking, and I think it's 2" catless but very very quiet. Any suggestions on a better louder exhaust system ??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

2"!? Go a head and measure it. If it is, get rid of it right now, and find yourself a 2.5" from Techtonics, or a 3" from somewhere.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

The TT 2.5" Borla that I just put on is awesome! Now granted it's only the back section with the Borla muffler and resonator replacing the suitcase muffler (from there forward it's custom 3" up to the turbo outlet) but wow what a sound! It's deep, not tinny at all at idle and just gets better when revved.


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Where's a good place to start looking for a turbo at? What are everyone's thoughts? It's gonna be an OBD1 Aba with a 270 cam, 8.5 cr, 36 lb injectors, arp studs, intercooled, probably go to Jeff with UM for a chip. Looking to daily at 16 psi. And a walbro 255 pump. Trying to find a nice snail that will be good to throw on there or to start looking at. The car will be getting the turbo setup after sowo but for now all that's getting thrown on is a random t3t4 he had. I'd like to start looking at a decent turbo to get.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

One more question, how do I figure out what water pump I have?? All I know is I have an mk2 aba swap, ac delete, ob2 head, turbo, head spacer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

you have an external setup. Like all 8v's till 99


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Is it a vr6 water pump or just a regular ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

It's an aba water pump lol.

is this thing on?


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Kennethcano said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Look like a decent swap.interesting that the tb cable is mounted on the intake like that, but if it works I guess that's All that matters


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

roknroko16v said:


> So finally dynoed my setup. Put down 240whp at 16psi but was breaking up really bad above 6k and running rich :/
> Obd1 setup
> C2 low compression stg2
> 440 injectors
> ...


I had the same problem after 6k. It was like my car was hitting fuel cut right at 6k. I got a billet knock sensor spacer and it seemed to fix the problem completely. 

I have a very very similar set up to yours. Except I have a garret 57 trim. And a 270 cam.

With the c2 software what is your rev limiter at? The website claims it should bump it to 7200, but mine is @ 6800 unfortunately. Which leaves me with a very short lived power band, as I'm sure you experience as well.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Looking for a pte 5862 t4 housing with a cea wheel if anyone know of one, for my aba turbo build


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I had the same problem after 6k. It was like my car was hitting fuel cut right at 6k. I got a billet knock sensor spacer and it seemed to fix the problem completely.
> 
> I have a very very similar set up to yours. Except I have a garret 57 trim. And a 270 cam.
> 
> With the c2 software what is your rev limiter at? The website claims it should bump it to 7200, but mine is @ 6800 unfortunately. Which leaves me with a very short lived power band, as I'm sure you experience as well.


Mine is about 6800 as well. First and second it will rev out but for whatever reason, 3rd gear on dyno it wouldn't. New rebuilt motor is almost done so its not a big concern

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> It's an aba water pump lol.
> 
> is this thing on?


What do you mean if it's on? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Look like a decent swap.interesting that the tb cable is mounted on the intake like that, but if it works I guess that's All that matters


Yea I'm not sure where it should be? It's running 12 psi but anything after 5k it just loses almost all power, maybe needs cam? How much boost can I run safely?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Kennethcano said:


> Yea I'm not sure where it should be? It's running 12 psi but anything after 5k it just loses almost all power, maybe needs cam? How much boost can I run safely?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


you have a wide band?


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Daskoupe said:


> you have a wide band?


What is that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## The Rice Cooker (Jan 13, 2004)

> Originally Posted by Kennethcano
> 
> What do you mean if it's on?
> 
> ...


That is some kind of auto signature that posts along with whatever that user intends to post. Not much different from when you post a message and it says "Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk"



Kennethcano said:


> What is that?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wideband he refers to is a gauge or meter that measure the ratio of the air and fuel mixture exiting your cylinder head. This is a very important instrument to monitor how your car is running, especially important with forced induction. (i.e. turbocharged in your case)


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I have a very very similar set up to yours. Except I have a garret 57 trim. And a 270 cam.


How do you like the 57 trim with the 270 cam? Which turbo is the one you're running? I was looking at some 57 trims but I wasn't sure how well it would work and what hp I'd be looking at 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

The Rice Cooker said:


> That is some kind of auto signature that posts along with whatever that user intends to post. Not much different from when you post a message and it says "Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk"
> 
> 
> 
> Wideband he refers to is a gauge or meter that measure the ratio of the air and fuel mixture exiting your cylinder head. This is a very important instrument to monitor how your car is running, especially important with forced induction. (i.e. turbocharged in your case)


No I don't have one:/ where can I get one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Kennethcano said:


> No I don't have one:/ where can I get one?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Jegs, summit racing, amazon, eBay.... I use an aem wideband with my setup

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Thagodeus said:


> How do you like the 57 trim with the 270 cam? Which turbo is the one you're running? I was looking at some 57 trims but I wasn't sure how well it would work and what hp I'd be looking at
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I like it a lot, but if I did it again I would probably go with a smaller turbo.


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I like it a lot, but if I did it again I would probably go with a smaller turbo.


Does it take too long to spool or what?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Waiting on the rest of my 02j swap to arrive


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

need quintin's input I am sure I spelled your name wrong. 


im pushing my aba as much as I can and im thinking of running a 5862, engine has all the goodies in the head along with e85 and lugtronics 


just wondering as far as holsets go. hx 35 or 40, this will be a drag only car with anti lag, (no no lift shift yet as im not going with a dog box yet)


I have a equal length manifold with a t4 flange built already I just need some insight. as these turboes are way cheaper and look to have the good to make big power.


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## D3hd3nd (Jun 18, 2008)

rabbitchaser said:


> need quintin's input I am sure I spelled your name wrong.
> 
> 
> im pushing my aba as much as I can and im thinking of running a 5862, engine has all the goodies in the head along with e85 and lugtronics
> ...


There is a thread on here (holset user thread) with lots of information/reviews. Telling us/him what you're looking to put down for power/times/expectations is going to help with suggestions. A HX35/40 hybrid might be suitable for what you're looking for :thumbup:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Honestly wanting to run 9s in a 1800 lb coupe that's with me in it . And hoping to see 500 plus at the wheels


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

I can't speak for the Holset stuff, but a 5862 will get you 500+ whp with the right setup.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

HX40 all day. That was gonna be my next upgrade to push mine over 500whp.....and then the crank bolt backed out :banghead:

3yrs later Scott has the car and i have a V8.:laugh:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Ok I'm on the hunt for one would love one with a t4 housing but will do with what I can find


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Well I just picked up a super Hx 40 from a guy in Sacramento it need a a rebuild new compressor wheel and shaft but I'm going to upgrade to a billet qheel, which I have read good thing about picked it up for 85 shipped so I can't go wrong I will still be in this turbo under 500 with rebuild and billet goodies


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

What number garret turbo would you guys recommend for something that doesn't spool ungodly early but also doesn't start spooling after 4000? I've been looking at their stuff a friend of mine with a BT b5 a4 said I should get a 2871


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

If anyone is interested i am selling my *BRAND NEW* Borg Warner S300SX.

Compressor Specs:

4" inlet
3" outlet
60mm inducer
83mm exducer

Turbine Specs:

T4 .91a/r DIVIDED

76mm inducer
68mm exducer

4.21" Marmon V-Band outlet flange

1/4npt oil inlet

3/8-16 oil return flange bolt holes

*
$625shipped*


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Quinton you should have mentioned that yesterday I probably would have bought it sounds close to a super Hx 40


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> Quinton you should have mentioned that yesterday I probably would have bought it sounds close to a super Hx 40


i didnt make the decision til today...it was on a whim after talking to a few turbo manufacturers and distributors about my plans. But yes it is very close to the HX40.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Hx 40 showed up today this thing is huge and heavy now to just rebuild it , any thought on changing the compressor Whelan to 62mm or think that is to much for a aba with full head work.


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

So after a little bit of research I'm really thinking of going with the gt2871r for the aba. We worked on the car a bit yesterday. The guy I'm doing the car with is older school and been turboing aba's for a while. I guess the small side mount down below the battery in the drivers fender is where we're going with this setup because thats how everyone was doing it back in the day haha. Anyone ever tried using a factory tdi intercooler on their setup? Im assuming it mounts there just like the corrado intercooler and its the same place they put both the TT 225 intercoolers etc etc.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Thagodeus said:


> So after a little bit of research I'm really thinking of going with the gt2871r for the aba. We worked on the car a bit yesterday. The guy I'm doing the car with is older school and been turboing aba's for a while. I guess the small side mount down below the battery in the drivers fender is where we're going with this setup because thats how everyone was doing it back in the day haha. Anyone ever tried using a factory tdi intercooler on their setup? Im assuming it mounts there just like the corrado intercooler and its the same place they put both the TT 225 intercoolers etc etc.


Good call!

is this thing on?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

so my hx 40 build is going to be as listed

billet compressor wheel maybe 62mm with new compressor housing
new shaft with exhaust turbine wheel
new hot side housing came with huge 18cm housing going to get a bep 16cm with 4in v band outlet. 


I picked up the turbo for 50 bucks so I should be in it less than 500 when done not bad compared to a 1000 pte 5862.


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

I have been waiting a long time for this moment. 
obd 2 engine
C2 head spacer
ARP headbolts
270 AT cam
AT cam gear
T3/T4 Garrett 57 trim .63AR
C2 440 software
Green Giants 42lb injectors
IC
Forge DV
SRI
C2 3" metal MAF housing
Water Meth kit
Walbro 225 fuel pump
3" dp
O2a w LSD TDI 5th gear and arp hardware

Yet to fire it up, but soon. Very soon.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Q should I ditch this 18cm housing I have read it's pretty laggy on the. Diesels I thinks it's a bit much for a 8 valve to I'm looking at a 16 cm non wastegated


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

They both would be laggy. I'd suggest machining a 12cm housing to fit honestly.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

12cm won't choke out up top would it this is a drag only car rarely driven on the street and will be using anti lag


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Try it man


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I think I will build it with a 16cm firtst then work down if it's not were Iwant it


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

I know it's been discussed a thousand times and a thousand times over. But will a vent to atmosphere bov make a obd1 Aba run like ****? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Depends on tune but using a united Motorsport or c2 chip it will drive funny


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> 12cm won't choke out up top would it this is a drag only car rarely driven on the street and will be using anti lag


Send it with the housing you have.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Mark I think your message came threw wrong what did you mean send it with the housing I have.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Sorry-- it's slang we use-- send it= send it down the track. 

I'm saying run it with the housing you have and go from there.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Ok I get it now just don't want to waste kevibs time tuning the car we will see though


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

AGREED. SEND IT.:beer: Setups rarely work out perfectly the first time, there's always tweaking and twerking :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

So does anyone on here want my brand new big boy Borg Warner 60mm turbo? (i'm getting something bigger)


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Q I would love that turbo just kind of out of money right now just ordered the role cage for the coupe do you think that is a better turbo than my hx 40 for 5-600 hp drag car


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Are you turboing the s4


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> Q I would love that turbo just kind of out of money right now just ordered the role cage for the coupe do you think that is a better turbo than my hx 40 for 5-600 hp drag car


Both turbos have been proven to perform excellent on different platform drag cars. I'd say they're close enough. The Borg just has better turbine housing options, and the ability to change wheels all in the same frame fairly easily. 



rabbitchaser said:


> Are you turboing the s4


.....


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

How crazy of a setup is it with a hx35? Would it be daily able? My buddy's got his old turbo from his 24v cummins the hx35 before he upgraded. I see a lot of people using them, is it a track setup or can that be daily'd because he said he'd just give me it


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Thagodeus said:


> How crazy of a setup is it with a hx35? Would it be daily able? My buddy's got his old turbo from his 24v cummins the hx35 before he upgraded. I see a lot of people using them, is it a track setup or can that be daily'd because he said he'd just give me it
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Best budget setup period. Full boost 21psi by 3700... When you're not breaking axles it's the perfect daily lol.


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Best budget setup period. Full boost 21psi by 3700... When you're not breaking axles it's the perfect daily lol.


Awesome, I'm definitely gonna grab it from him then. Now how exactly does it mount up? I'm assuming it won't go directly on to a typical t3 flanged manifold?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

It will bolt right up just port match and no haul the divided housing if it's twin scroll turbo


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

I'm very confused at the last one haha no haul the divided housing? And how do I know it's a twin scroll?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Sorry stupid auto correct mohawk the divider


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Mohawk the divider? Haha I think that's still autocorrect haha. 

Any of you guys have trouble fitting bigger turbos like the hx35? My buddy said he doesn't think it'll fit, he said he's had to move the firewall back before because he couldn't fit snails that are probably smaller than the hx35


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Thagodeus said:


> Mohawk the divider? Haha I think that's still autocorrect haha.
> 
> Any of you guys have trouble fitting bigger turbos like the hx35? My buddy said he doesn't think it'll fit, he said he's had to move the firewall back before because he couldn't fit snails that are probably smaller than the hx35
> 
> ...


 he means knife edge. It will fit depending on your manifold design. You might have to persuade the firewall with a hammer sure but it's worth it.


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

What does knife edging the divider mean? And yeah I'm not against persuading it a little haha


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

You're worrying me...


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

^:laugh: that gave me a good laugh. Lots of
Good stuff going on in this thread


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Sorry haha no need to worry, now that you show a picture i should've been able to take away the whole idea just from the name. Just new to boosting, but the guy helping/doing most of the work with me has been at it for many years lol. :thumbup:


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Pretty quiet in here, give me some motivation guys. Was driving mine around last weekend on 3-5psi just to hear it run. But can't safely stay in boost without a proper tune. Can't imagine why there aren't a flood of obd2 stage 1 tunes out there, guess everyone skipped stage 1 and went straight to 440's.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Still daily driving mine. Got rev at by a 2000 ish ss camaro and wasted it lol:laugh:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I will I've some post here soon things are comming to get her pretty fast


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> Still daily driving mine. Got rev at by a 2000 ish ss camaro and wasted it lol:laugh:


Any updates or still running the same set up? I cant wait to take mine back apart and replace the Garrett with my Holset.


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I'm gonna try installing the 276 wide lobe this weekend. Time will tell if I need to pull the head for bucket clearance.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Any updates or still running the same set up? I cant wait to take mine back apart and replace the Garrett with my Holset.


Same set up. No different.


----------



## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> Still daily driving mine. Got rev at by a 2000 ish ss camaro and wasted it lol:laugh:


:thumbup:


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Is any one in the market for a nearly new Turbonetics T60 ? Thinking of scraping my thoughts of boost on this car...let me know PM 4 pics


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

if you all have instagram. Follow me @PanzerPerformance. I just put a little 3rd gear pull up :laugh:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> if you all have instagram. Follow me @PanzerPerformance. I just put a little 3rd gear pull up :laugh:


No instagram here, post it up!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

you can't link the ****


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> you can't link the ****


come help me work on the Audi in Sept.:wave:


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Anybody with a spare obd2 tune laying around that they would part with? I don't have the coin for new and can't quite bring myself to go the fmu route...yet.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> come help me work on the Audi in Sept.:wave:


I have a shop now. Should have a lift by then too


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Das pull looked good, hoping to have a huge progress pic of mine up soon


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> I have a shop now. Should have a lift by then too


perfect! want to sale some of our stuff??


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

got that tax id ready homie


----------



## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Parting out my rabbit. LMK if anyone needs anything (or sell the whole set up).


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

What size exhausts are you guys running? I was thinking about doing a 3 inch back from the hx35 not sure if I'd do catless or not and I wanted to throw a borla muffler in.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Thagodeus said:


> What size exhausts are you guys running? I was thinking about doing a 3 inch back from the hx35 not sure if I'd do catless or not and I wanted to throw a borla muffler in.


run a full 3" no cat, with 14"x5" round resonator followed by a magnaflow 5x8x21 or something along that size :beer: 

Quiet and Deadly


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Finally done









My favorite feature TDI 5th


----------



## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Hey guys have a question, so i have an obd2 aba with a obd1 head, 2mm head spacer and tt chip. Currently running 12psi. It has a manual boost control, can i safely turn it up to 15psi?? On stock block? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Kennethcano said:


> Hey guys have a question, so i have an obd2 aba with a obd1 head, 2mm head spacer and tt chip. Currently running 12psi. It has a manual boost control, can i safely turn it up to 15psi?? On stock block?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


depends on turbo size not just boost level..

volume+pressure

not just pressure:beer:


----------



## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> depends on turbo size not just boost level..
> 
> volume+pressure
> 
> not just pressure:beer:


I really dont know what size of turbo it is, i looked on the intake side and all i saw was, .60ar ??


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Kennethcano said:


> I really dont know what size of turbo it is, i looked on the intake side and all i saw was, .60ar ??
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 where did you get it? What car did it come off of?


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> where did you get it? What car did it come off of?


It came on the car when i bought it,


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Kennethcano said:


> It came on the car when i bought it,
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


well get me a picture...preferably of the serial plate on the turbo...but if you cant then at least of the turbo itself and the inlet size measurement. im sure its just some small t3 and you'd be perfectly fine running it even at 20psi provided you have the injector flow but better safe then sorry.


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> well get me a picture...preferably of the serial plate on the turbo...but if you cant then at least of the turbo itself and the inlet size measurement. im sure its just some small t3 and you'd be perfectly fine running it even at 20psi provided you have the injector flow but better safe then sorry.


I will take a picture later in the day, i do have a inline fuel pump, not sure if stock injectors or not. Also has front mount intercooler, full boost doesnt come on untill about 4,200 rpm. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kennethcano (Mar 21, 2014)

Heres a quick pic of set up










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## elveloz69 (Aug 26, 2006)




----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So after 30k miles on my set up, the other day I started hearing a flutter sound when on throttle and accelerating/building boost. I've heard it every time in second and third gear. At first I thought compressor surge then maybe dv and now I'm wondering if it may be wastegate flutter. I rebuilt the dv and put a yellow spring as per forge but still no luck. As to my understanding compressor surge occurs when you let off throttle and not when full throttle correct?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Set up is obd1, double stacked gaskets, kinetics stage 3 kit with precision 57 trim (.60 cold & .48 hot), Walbro inline pump, 268 cam, mild head work, 2.5" dp, and a bottom end that is ready to be junked due to slight rod knock. (Finishing up new bottom end as we speak


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

check the turbo. And your turbo inlet


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> check the turbo. And your turbo inlet


you break 11s yet ya bum?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Nah I havent even gone out there


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> check the turbo. And your turbo inlet


So I removed the kinetics manual boost controller and am running off wastegate pressure of 8 psi and problem went away. Car is slow now haha....


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

you have to service those manual style controls once in awhile


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> you have to service those manual style controls once in awhile


First car I've ever boosted. What do you mean by service it? Think I'm better just running higher pressure spring in wastegate instead?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

roknroko16v said:


> First car I've ever boosted. What do you mean by service it? Think I'm better just running higher pressure spring in wastegate instead?


take it apart. Clean with brake cleaner. Maybe give the spring a slight stretch. little bit of atf for lube. Re assemble. Re adjust


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Been trying to figure out how to do a catch can on an obd1 aba and not have oil seep or get all over the bay. Any way to do it?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

jettatech said:


> Had the time to remove the 268/260 and install the 276wl. Here is a couple pics for reference. Clearance test was performed with lifters removed, using both end plays, in and out, spun by hand, and inspected with a flashlight from behind. Early 93 OBD1 head from a 95 Cabrio. This is a big valve head, you can see the supertech retainers.


YUP thats how mine looked. I let it ride and drove on!


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Same here never had a problem it's close but works great


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

My setup


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> http://youtu.be/qJxFw4YaQO0
> 
> My setup


What turbo?


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> What turbo?


Its a GT-25. from Tim's


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

jettatech said:


> Had the time to remove the 268/260 and install the 276wl. Here is a couple pics for reference. Clearance test was performed with lifters removed, using both end plays, in and out, spun by hand, and inspected with a flashlight from behind. Early 93 OBD1 head from a 95 Cabrio. This is a big valve head, you can see the supertech retainers.


Interested in selling the old cam? Mileage on it?


----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Just got my software in the mail! It's going to be a great weekend.


I've never been so excited about such a small part.


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

I tried messaging jeffrey about getting a chip custom burned, never messaged me back though. Did you email them for it or what?


----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Thagodeus said:


> I tried messaging jeffrey about getting a chip custom burned, never messaged me back though. Did you email them for it or what?


I bought through a local distributor, it took about a week for them to ship the chip from when I ordered. As such I was never directly in contact with UM.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Email. Jeff is best contacted by email from the um website.


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

So im guessing 15 psi on the jetta I'm building is gonna need an aftermarket diverter valve correct? i was looking at the forge 007

Would love to just scoop an old 1.8t dv or something but will it hold?


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> My setup


whoa! those are some crazy numbers ! more info please !


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

redzone98 said:


> whoa! those are some crazy numbers ! more info please !


those are average numbers. 8v's are capable of alot more than people think.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Im at 20psi now.


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So assembling my new motor with arp head studs and wondering what torque specs everyone uses. Do i use the oem bolt specs or call arp for them?


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> So assembling my new motor with arp head studs and wondering what torque specs everyone uses. Do i use the oem bolt specs or call arp for them?


The specs should come on the sheet in the box......


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Nobody knows the specs. So use Google.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> Nobody knows the specs. So use Google.


Not true. i know em but again if he read the paperwork then he'd know 


It also varies on if he's using engine oil or that arp moly lube stuff when torquing. 

PS The bolt holes should be dry and clean prior to install otherwise use the engine oil based torque specs.



(when i did mine to 80ft/lbs, i did it in stages 40~60~80 with the moly lube)


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Lost the paper work unfortunately but was able to get a hold of arp and looked them up. I'm using the arp moly lube btw


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Not true. i know em but again if he read the paperwork then he'd know
> 
> 
> It also varies on if he's using engine oil or that arp moly lube stuff when torquing.
> ...


Being instructions were vague, I'll ask, the moly lube is only for use on the nuts or nuts and threads in to block? I ask being you said make sure bolt holes are dry


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> Being instructions were vague, I'll ask, the moly lube is only for use on the nuts or nuts and threads in to block? I ask being you said make sure bolt holes are dry


sorry apparently i shouldnt give instructions prior to having my coffee :laugh:

Make sure the STUDS are clean and dry prior to installing the nuts... :banghead::laugh:


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

Let's say hypothetically I had some extra money on hand and wanted to look into a dry shot kit for my Aba turbo build just as something extra to have. Anybody ran one or have good/bad things to say?


----------



## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Thagodeus said:


> Let's say hypothetically I had some extra money on hand and wanted to look into a dry shot kit for my Aba turbo build just as something extra to have. Anybody ran one or have good/bad things to say?


at least run a wet kit. dry kit = boom


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## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

coolalex said:


> at least run a wet kit. dry kit = boom


I had been wondering which would be safer to run. Dont know a hell of a lot about nitrous I've been looking at it a bit lately. Not to run all the time but just to piss some money away on for the occasion.

But unless someone says they really think its a terrible idea i'll probably go ahead and do it. The kits aren't too expensive and with an OBD1 bottom end i know it can handle the little extra power. (i think at least haha)


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Thagodeus said:


> I had been wondering which would be safer to run. Dont know a hell of a lot about nitrous I've been looking at it a bit lately. Not to run all the time but just to piss some money away on for the occasion.
> 
> But unless someone says they really think its a terrible idea i'll probably go ahead and do it. The kits aren't too expensive and with an OBD1 bottom end i know it can handle the little extra power. (i think at least haha)


Better to add a water/meth kit


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Prof315 said:


> Better to add a water/meth kit


You're in Melbourne...i'll be moving there in a month


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

just filled my meth tank with this stuff










going for that 11. I need standalone soon lol


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> just filled my meth tank with this stuff
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Saw the video on instagram. Keep it up man


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I spy a beetle conv. rear window lifter tool. Did you cut the meth or straight up.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Whats up guys, quick question. I have a Garrett super 60 that i plan to run on 22-24psi. (after i source an sri and order an mbs 3" Im shooting for 300whp) i know ill need a 4 bar fpr, but if im breaking in the setup and am only running 10-12psi, is it going to run pig rich? 

setup
MBC
c2 headspacer
garrett super 60
ported obd1 head
autotech dual valve springs
aeg lifters
tt276* turbo cam
cx racing 38mm wastegate
hks ssqv bov recirculated to intake 
walbro 255/bosch 044
c2 42# software
440cc injectors 

Thanks for the advice everyone! :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> just filled my meth tank with this stuff
> 
> going for that 11. I need standalone soon lol


dont forget to add water.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Mah trek it will run fine, that's pretty much the sweet spot of that chip as far as tuning goes , I ran mine on the street at 12 psi and it ran great , it would even run ok at 12 psi with the 4 bar fpr, I had a 2 space boost controller so 12 psi street and 24 at the track


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

jettatech said:


> I spy a beetle conv. rear window lifter tool. Did you cut the meth or straight up.


you do! and its straight right now.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> You're in Melbourne...i'll be moving there in a month


Really?! Cool! Let me know when you get here and maybe we can meet up.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> you do! and its straight right now.


You need the water to get the most out of it.


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> You need the water to get the most out of it.


Fact


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

I know this has been discussed in the past...but what are the actual gains from running oversized vavles. 

I'm pulling the head off my car and my buddy is trying to pursued me to do +1mm oversized valves. To my understanding, they do not need an overbore, but are they really worth the ~$200(supertech)? Anyone recommend a certain dealer?

Also, one more quick one for those of you with a head spacer.....anyone care to pm me a walk through/tips for attaching the new crush gasket for reassembly. Or should I just double stack stocks and sell the thing? 

Thanks in advance
Steve


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> You need the water to get the most out of it.


I will just haven't made to store yet to get dis stilled water. I am almost a full point richer one the new nozzle( 430cc)! was a steady 12.3-4 now we are in the 11.2-4 range. Hoping I can drop down to the smaller fpr to get some mpg/ half throttle drivability back.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> I will just haven't made to store yet to get dis stilled water. I am almost a full point richer one the new nozzle( 430cc)! was a steady 12.3-4 now we are in the 11.2-4 range. Hoping I can drop down to the smaller fpr to get some mpg/ half throttle drivability back.


I was correct! 3.0 bar and meth nozzles! Afr of 12.2-12.4 (23psi) 4th gear at 6900 rpm:laugh:


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> those are average numbers. 8v's are capable of alot more than people think.


those are good numbers for the amount of boost he's running..... at least i thought so


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

They are very good numbers. It's a punched out 2.1 with a cam.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> They are very good numbers. It's a punched out 2.1 with a cam.


He's not trying to be rude, I feel the same way. I would expect more than 188whp from a 2.1, cammed aba on 13psi. I understand it's a small turbo, and your tq numbers are great. I'm sure your to curve looks like that of a supercharger! But a lot of guys make more power with similar setups. Regardless I'm sure it's a blast to drive. Didn't you turn your boost up to 20psi? Was it re-dynoed?


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

It's not a racecar. But fun indeed. There was no offense taken
Haha it was the wrong cam. Yeah 20 now. With the stock cam back in. Much better power band. Not re dyno ed


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> I would expect more than 188whp from a 2.1, cammed aba on 13psi.













Whoa, Whoa, Whoa, Whoa, Whoa, Whoa.... Stroked out ABA, Cammed.... 13PSI... yea I was wrong... Those numbers are very disapointing...


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Sorry to disappoint you? It's a MK1. 
So much more power then necessary. Hell, it puts a GIANT smile on my face. Redzone. What are your numbers?
Oh wait. ...


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

its NOT a mk1, its a 2.1L ABA. With a cam.

There should be Much more with that boost level & Displacemet combo. Boost leak? or preignition issues ?


and.. its not a competition


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

POPOTROPOPIC3 said:


> Sorry to disappoint you? It's a MK1.
> So much more power then necessary. Hell, it puts a GIANT smile on my face. Redzone. What are your numbers?
> Oh wait. ...


Oooh shots fired!

I have no room to talk, my build is still just a pile of parts :laugh:
What cam were you running? I'd love to see what kind of numbers it makes on 20psi! I'm sure a 200whp mk1 is bananas!


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

It wasn't supposed to be a shot. 

Everyone's a critic. The funny thing is I probably met the guy at mk1 madness. 
I love my car. I've put hours and blood and sweat into building it. NOT A PURPOSE BUILT RACE CAR. 
It's a great daily driver. If it's mediocre power to you guys. Consider me mediocre. 
Facts: I don't have endless money or time. This build was my thoughts my ideas and is unique in its own way. 

Haters gonna hate
Gators gonna gate


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

It was a 276 N/A cam g grind.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

It's all good man, nothing wrong with your build. I don't think many people have unlimited time or resources either :thumbup:

I was just trying poke fun that's all.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Doing some maintenance  in preparation of the gathering down in ocean city


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Pic request:

For those running external dump wastegates can you see your plumbing?


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

naa man, its not like that,,, i would say, somethign is not rite... lets pool the resources here and figure why she is not pushing higer numbers?

i mean a 2.1L stock cam N/A is good for 100-110 ? rite, yoour adding over a full BAR, so you should be adding almost a full displacment, or double power ? so in my mind, your about 25hp short. i think you might have a fuel, or boost leak issue? pre-ignition ? or ignition issue ?

dunno, im just thowing ideas out there....


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Pic request:
> 
> For those running external dump wastegates can you see your plumbing?


Don't have any pics but mine dumps right behind the axle. Smells like hell:laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

You guys can't base the numbers just on boost pressure alone. Goodness gracious!


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> Don't have any pics but mine dumps right behind the axle. Smells like hell:laugh:


So did you just run a 90* straight down?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> So did you just run a 90* straight down?


yes/ I'll be re doing it. No more open dump. #gettignold #gatorsgonnagate


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Is it really that bad? Crap maybe i should plumb mine into the exhaust...


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Is it really that bad? Crap maybe i should plumb mine into the exhaust...


yeah I didnt care for like 4 years. But I want the nicest daily setup now.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Is it really that bad? Crap maybe i should plumb mine into the exhaust...


I personally love external gates. But to each his own. I wouldn't recommend routing and external waste gate back into the exhaust thou. A lot of unnecessary fab work for something you ARE going to want to undo! Just get yourself an internally gated turbo that's all.


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> yeah I didnt care for like 4 years. But I want the nicest daily setup now.


Oh i didnt know you daily'd yours.



PerkeyTurkey said:


> I personally love external gates. But to each his own. I wouldn't recommend routing and external waste gate back into the exhaust thou. A lot of unnecessary fab work for something you ARE going to want to undo! Just get yourself an internally gated turbo that's all.


I currently have an internally gated Garrett T3 but I yanked the motor for my Holset HY35 upgrade. Im using a Tial 38mm gate and planned on just running it straight down, its hard to get a gauge on how loud it is from videos on YouTube.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

New intake manifold almost done waiting on more parts hope to have the engine trans with turbo manifold, intake manifold turbo mounted in car by Sept 7th it will not be running for a while though tons more to spend


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Intake is being built by nubworks check him out on face book does incredible work


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

rabbitchaser said:


> Intake is being built by nubworks check him out on face book does incredible work


how much does he charge for those again? I know my buddy bought one from him a long time ago but he can't remember


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

635 and I'm also getting a -8 fuel rail for that, and he is doing a few other tweaks to the manifold it's a good deal as everything is new machined aluminum and you can pick which throttle body flange , mine will be obd1 vr6 ,


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

rabbitchaser said:


> 635 and I'm also getting a -8 fuel rail for that, and he is doing a few other tweaks to the manifold it's a good deal as everything is new machined aluminum and you can pick which throttle body flange , mine will be obd1 vr6 ,


Hells yeah thats a pretty solid deal, i need to get him to make me one up for my jetta build.


----------



## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> 635 and I'm also getting a -8 fuel rail for that, and he is doing a few other tweaks to the manifold it's a good deal as everything is new machined aluminum and you can pick which throttle body flange , mine will be obd1 vr6 ,


It looks very nice. Can you mount the obd1 vr throttle body on an obd1 aba without any mods if the intake is flanged for the vr tb?
Thanks


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Yes obd1 vr goes right on you might need to switch the 2 signal wires in the connector as the vr is backwards no matter for me though as I will be running lugtronics


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Also picked up another few pieces for the build this weekend a set of used clean and flow tested bosch 1600cc injectors and 2 044 pumps need fuel lines and a regulator is all for fuel system, then save up for the last big purchases axles and management, I really need to get a build thread up


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Is it really that bad? Crap maybe i should plumb mine into the exhaust...


I was very hesitant of open dump. Its not that bad, and isnt a problem for me and i HATE loud exhaust.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Question gentlemen! Trying to get some more info on my turbo, as in how much psi can it efficiently run? Power expectations? Etc. 

Any insight is appreciated! 

Garrett T3 
Cold side a/r .42
Hot side a/r .48

Part Number 
465809-5012s

I couldn't find much info online, everything came up in Portuguese 

Thanks fellas!


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

MahTrek=] said:


> Question gentlemen! Trying to get some more info on my turbo, as in how much psi can it efficiently run? Power expectations? Etc.
> 
> Any insight is appreciated!
> 
> ...


I ran this same turbo off a Saab 9000, not sure on efficiency but mine held 20psi to redline no problem :thumbup:


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

rabbitchaser said:


> Yes obd1 vr goes right on you might need to switch the 2 signal wires in the connector as the vr is backwards no matter for me though as I will be running lugtronics


Benefits of running a vr throttle body?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Bigger 3 inch id so less restriction, this is what Kevin black likes to use on his vr builds


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Found my cyl 2 misfire.. Had this misfire since day 1. My fault for choosing the cheap-o machine shop. Many corners were cut. None of my parts (rings, bearings) were installed I learned upon teardown. Prime example of "get what you pay for" type of work. Doing it right this time around.


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

rabbitchaser said:


> Bigger 3 inch id so less restriction, this is what Kevin black likes to use on his vr builds


Makes sense. I'll keep that in mind when we throw the turbo on.



Good news! Mk3 finally runs! After sitting for a long time, having much replaced and then pulling the motor and redoing all gaskets, installing cam, and arp studs, and doing the manual trans swap at the same time. Discovered it wasn't starting previously due to a blown trans, ecu, and knock sensor. All good now though! Which means i should be driving an aba-t to h2oi :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> I ran this same turbo off a Saab 9000, not sure on efficiency but mine held 20psi to redline no problem :thumbup:


Thanks for the response tony, good to hear it held 20psi :thumbup: mine looks different however. I'm sure it's essentially the same turbo. 

One more question! I'm having a hard time sourcing a turbo mani with an external waste gate bung. The only one I can find is the APT one. Is there any other options?


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I've got a brand new SPA manifold for sale if you want 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


----------



## Thagodeus (Nov 14, 2010)

I'm about to order a obd1 vr throttle body but what do I need to look for? I see them with throttle position sensor I see some from a corrado some from vr's with coil packs. Does any of that make a difference on an obd1 Aba?


----------



## GlhTroy (Aug 6, 2013)

.T.o.n.y. what exhaust manifold do you use? I follow your budget build.


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

My first turbo set up used an ATP clone, my current Holset upgrade is in conjunction with a kinetic manifold. I had bought a brand new SPA manifold because trying to find a kinetic manifold nowadays is near impossible. I got lucky and found one after finally giving up hence why my SPA manifold is for sale. 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


----------



## GlhTroy (Aug 6, 2013)

Thanks


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Im thinking of getting rid of my big and ugly radiator and fans for something more compact and eye pleasing. Anybody else running something different??
I was think CXRacing radiator and fan from Del Sol. I know carb guys use this set up. Will it cool enough??
Im running WM already.

Some options
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...IVIC9200-L-3-SHROUD-1FAN12&Category_Code=RDAC

or 
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/electric-radiator-cooling-fans/air-to-water-radiator-p-1062.html

Picture of my set up (cuz i like whoring)


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

*Downpipe*

What is everyone doing for a Downpipe.. is it a total custom setup ? are you getting a particular brand, then chopping it up? Pics if you got em?

thanks, just getting ideas together...


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

redzone98 said:


> What is everyone doing for a Downpipe.. is it a total custom setup ? are you getting a particular brand, then chopping it up? Pics if you got em?
> 
> thanks, just getting ideas together...


I went w a custom made set up


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

wow, if i could weld like that.... id be doing the same ! nice work.


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

I wish that was me. I'm sure the guy wouldn't mind making few extras


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

u serious? i have a few bucks in the budget. how can i get one ?


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

redzone98 said:


> u serious? i have a few bucks in the budget. how can i get one ?


PM me I'll get u the guys number.


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

TM87 said:


> PM me I'll get u the guys number.


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Did some pulls tonight with the new 276 w l. Let off at 7850 rpms.. felt like it could pull more.


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Did you guys build the head w 276 cam??
I was thinking of buying it soon.


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

jettatech said:


> Let off at 7850 rpms.. felt like it could pull more.


Pull up your skirt and let 'er eat Bern! lol


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Mark Morris said:


> Pull up your skirt and let 'er eat Bern! lol


tell me about what is happening here!


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

With stand alone I'm going to rev mine out to 8500 from the reading I have done I should be ok , some day I want a solution d lifter head and go higher


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Sirocco non ac rad with flex a lite dual sirocco fan unit. pretty thin and moves a lot of air. intercooler in front of rad.


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Mark Morris said:


> Pull up your skirt and let 'er eat Bern! lol


LOL. :laugh:


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)




----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Worked some more on swapping my ABA-t into a new shell. 
Starting to look like a car again. On the test runs in the old shell at 6-7 psi it seemed to work very well for such low boost on such a small turbo.


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

MattySull said:


> 1999(mk3) Jetta
> 
> -stock compression
> -30lb injectors
> ...


Ever get any numbers on this? I'm looking into running a very similar setup, i just want a quick spooling 8psi DD thats reliable. Still researching/learning and trying to piece together the setup im going to run here in a couple months when i get back home. Anyone on here have any ideas as far as turbos i can pull off a car at the junkyard? Preferably internally gated 8psi that would work well with a similar set-up as pictured above? It's hard trying to find the part numbers for certain turbos and find the information on them, specs, what year/model they came on different cars etc. Just wanna go the cheapo route for now and pull/rebuild a junkyard garrett while im still learning and have some fun! Love seeing all these frankenstein set-ups :beer:


----------



## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

What a great thread! I have two ABA's and one of them is getting an ATP manifold within a week or two.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Huge update coming this weekend after the car appears at Pacific waterland


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

For those of you running a ball bearing turbo, where do you tap in for coolant feed and return? My journal bearing precision died and got a garrett 50 trim from a friend but it's a ball bearing unit


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

I'm going to tap off of my oil cooler


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Good luck chaser


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

I was thinking a good spot might be the small hoses going to and from coolant bubble


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I've also considered that hose. Out of the head to turbo...turbo outlet to bottle. It's all right there short hoses less point of failure.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

received for free from a friend. Garrett 50 trim ball bearing unit. Bigger exhaust ar then my current turbo but interested to see how she spools


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

What size


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

My current turbo is a pte t3/t4 with .60 on cold and .48 hot side. This is a .63 hot side and .60 cold side


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I've always favored the .63


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Unfortunately I know very little about my pte turbo being the id tag came off lol. It was part of my kinetics stage 3 kit. This garrett uses 50 trim 76mm compressor wheel and 76 trim 65mm turbine wheel


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Bolt it on and run it. Has to better than my oil blowing 5857 or my surging 57 trim lol


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

My pte is blowing smoke like crazy, won't even build boost. Just have to run coolant lines. Offered him money and he said no its just a paper weight to him so to have it for free


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Cool.cool. yeah my pte has less than 1000 miles. I won't sell it. I shouldn't have been made.


----------



## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

It rather Lol


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Mine has about 35k on it but still. Never should have had seals go already. ..


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

roknroko16v said:


> Mine has about 35k on it but still. Never should have had seals go already. ..


35k...meh i can see the seals going in that time frame...how much boost were you running daily?


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

15psi


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Finally going to let the car out of the bag since my car finally made a appearance at Pacific waterland this weekend


Specs will be posted in a bit but here are a few pictures


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

That turbo is too small rabbit.......... :laugh:


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I thought so to but it should do the job just fine


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Build thread 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7038093-aba-drag-car-purpose-build


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Question about double stacked head gaskets: is it really as simple as it sounds? Purchase 2 OEM gaskets, and stack them? 

BBM customer service isn't very helpful. Most likely not going to/can't reuse my spacer. Still want the lowered cr


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Yes and Use copper sealer on them in light coats, and Use arp head bolts worked great on my old engine held 24 psi all day


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Just to confirm...sealer only between the two gaskets correct? Got the arp hardware already  thanks for the intel


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Exactly I actually did light coat in both sides of each gasjet


----------



## R32OG (Jun 5, 2012)

anyone know where i can buy a complete kit from?


----------



## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

ok so im having a few issues with my build...still in the early stages. Im doing an o2a swap in my coupe before i toss in the aba and boost this bitch. the problem im having is that i swapped over to a corrado pedal assembly and i cant get the lower steering column bracket to get back into position. is there a different bracket for this pedal assembly? should i just bust out the grinder and make this puppy fit? any help would be great.
pic of what im working on for reference


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

R32OG said:


> anyone know where i can buy a complete kit from?


nowhere anymore.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7038093-aba-drag-car-purpose-build


Build thread is up things are coming together fast should have up dates every week till it's on the dyno no later than april


----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Any pictures of your turbo manifold Mr. rabbitchaser ? Also, curious what your last set up ran at the track.


----------



## sykye (Feb 26, 2012)

Please could you help me? i am from slovakia and have ABA engine with turbo... pressure 0,8bar could you tell me what compression rate i need? now i have two headgaskets (victor reinz) below head. should i buy 2mm metal plate under head to change compression? so it will be gasket-metal plate-gasket.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Pics of the manifold in the build thread , car ran a best 12.4 at 116 onthe old set up and it was breaking up in 3rd


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Pretty sure I just ate second gear.... Redline 70 ish mph go for third and bang. Rocks in a coffee can. No fluid trail behind me, motor sounds normal. All gears but 2nd are there.... I guess I'll have to get to work early tomorrow! I have a complete set of 02j gears. These are 02a vr6 stuff. So I'll save the final drive and swap everyone out


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Sucks to hear das that car has been super reliable for you , 


Well I just sent Kevin black a large stack of cash in the form of a check 

I'm on his build list for a harness with wide band , boost controler, and a sd card data logging can't wait to have the ligtronics banner onthe car


----------



## sykye (Feb 26, 2012)

hallo. i have AGG block (1996) with ABA head. Do you know if i have forged or cast crank and rods? someone says that AGG was with cast crank and someone says forged.... i really dont know and i need to know this  and rods? forged or cast?

btw. this is mine...


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Better pics later. (not a true ABA though)


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

for those runnign DV's where are you taping back into the hard piping? close to the turbo? Also for the O2 sensor locations, i know ABAs have two sensors one in the manifold and one after the cat.. On your downpipes are you guys just running the manifold one up near the turbo and downstream sensor towards the end of the downpipe? Do they both need to be relocated to the downpipe? or just the upstream sensor?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

MY dv dumps into the turbo inlet. My o2 sensor is down stream Like 8 inches from turbo. Most software elements the second.

Rebuild the trans. All good :laugh:











alot of 02j parts went back in lol










I'm happier with the gear box than every before lol


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

So just vr final drive now


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> So just vr final drive now


vr fd, 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th are 2.0, 5th is tdi. The 2-3rd gap is less so it stays in the sweet spot better!


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Should be a good fit 1st with the 2.0 f2f is super low I hated my stock 2.0 02j box lived to roast tires


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I meant to say fd,1st, and 2nd are vr6!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Ahhh go back and put the VR 3rd in... I loved it!


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Old motor was pretty tired and my pte turbo **** the bed so last weekend the nee motor, new clutch, shim kit in trans, and a garrett ball bearing 50 trim went in the car. Turbo spools a little slower then old one due to .63 hot side where my old pte was a .48 but I'm happy. Can't wait until motor and clutch are broken in and turn the boost back up


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

^ nice! ^

Posted this in the Holset thread, figured id share here as well:

So close!


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

the difference between the vr3 and 2.0 4th is really not bad


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

In preparation for the gathering....that is H20i.


----------



## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Perkey, where'd you get the silicon coupler with longer ends? I've been looking but they all seem really short


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Yea I feel your pain..I went through the same thing. Scooped that one up from eBay thou. Just make sure you read the description


----------



## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

ABA OBD1, what are you guys doing for engine managment ? stand alone? custom chips? dyno tuning?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

C2 motorsports used to make a chip for obd1 aba you can find them used still or go with mega squirt or lugtronics


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> .


We gotta talk about your BOV placement.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

G60 Carat said:


> We gotta talk about your BOV placement.


That's a fancy forge dv. I since swapped it back to my basic plastic 007. I wasn't a fan of the metal forge. It works. I'll probably change the intake pipe soon anyway, and let it ride in the rain tray.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> That's a fancy forge dv. I since swapped it back to my basic plastic 007. I wasn't a fan of the metal forge. It works. I'll probably change the intake pipe soon anyway, and let it ride in the rain tray.


I meant, It looks like it's only attached to the intake pipe there and not a charge pipe.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Ooo no! It's all there lol. The bung on the charge pipe is underneath. Basically had to be done that way so the hose didn't kink

*If you look on the charge pipe you can see the hose clamp


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Lol oh yeah I see it now.

Is that one of those 50/50 recirc/boy's? It look like it vents to atmosphere too?


----------



## 2pointgo (Jul 3, 2013)

*ABA Turbo setups*








First off I'd like to say hello to all. Don't post much but I have wore out several search buttons here.....lol. A lot of you have answered many questions for me and don't realize just how much you have helped me with my turbo build. You desrve one hell of a big THANK YOU! Some of you have friggin badass setups, they look dam good and clean. It's what inspired me to do mine. Bought this vdub with the intension to make a DD, then came upon the vortex and so the turbo build began........ 

My setup is as follows:

1997 golf gl obd2
EBay hybrid turbo 57 trim 50 a/r (yeah I know but was short on funding)
EBay intercooler (black for stealth look)
EBay bov (released to atmosphere)
2.5 intercooler piping
38lb injectors (robbed from a GM 3.8 supercharged engine)
Obd2 stock block
Obd1 stock head
EBay cast iron turbo manifold t3/t4
Double stacked head gaskets
ARP undercut head studs
Mk4 intake (gasket matched)
NGK plugs bkr7es
TT heavy duty valve springs
TT 276 wide lobe turbo cam
TT adjustable cam gear
02a transmission (from a 91 corrado)
Vr6 stage 1 clutch and pressure plate
G60 flywheel (soon to be lightened to 14 pounds)
C2 stage 1 chip race file
2.5 down pipe
2.5 test pipe
2.5 full exhaust with magna flow muffler
K & N high flow cone air filter
Cold air intake
18 psi daily

Turbo spools up great, starts spooling around 3200 rpm and hits full boost around 4400 rpm I think. Hard to look at the boost gauge when crap starts flying by. When things start coming at you fast the last thing you want to do is take your eyes off the road and traffic. Now, for all the pro's out there I have a few questions. Do you think I could safely run 20 psi daily? What timing do you recommend i run this cam at? Car is my DD so not in a big hurry to find out what my limitations are.....lol Having a lot of fun tearing up the ricers over here in the south on the east coast. Thanks again and any advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

You don't have enough fuel you will need stage 2 and 440 injectors and maybe a second fuel pump to safely run 20psi


----------



## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

Yep


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

If I told you the baby size of injectors I run at 18psi with a 1.8/ABA hybrid, well.....


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

What size do you run, what size turbo , my old set up with the same turbo he is running had a 4 bar fpr 440s c2 stage 2 running 24 psi with out the 4 bar it was a little lean in boost

Das coupe is running meth and was able to go back to a 3 bar running 440s at 24 psi


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

They might be going full static., I make no promises. But 255cc at 4.0 bar  

My high boost setting is 18psi, and it stays right about 12.5 on the wideband, right to 6500rpm. It's a small .42/.48 T3, it would be about a 50trim I guess. (I say small turbo, but I still don't have full boost until almost 4000rpm, it certainly doesn't spool anywhere near as fast as my old 150hp 1.8t Beetle did)

I added a 5th injector for high boost, it's all plumbed and wired up, but the wideband is telling me I don't need it, so I haven't been using it....yet.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> They might be going full static., I make no promises. But 255cc at 4.0 bar
> 
> My high boost setting is 18psi, and it stays right about 12.5 on the wideband, right to 6500rpm. It's a small .42/.48 T3, it would be about a 50trim I guess. (I say small turbo, but I still don't have full boost until almost 4000rpm, it certainly doesn't spool anywhere near as fast as my old 150hp 1.8t Beetle did)
> 
> I added a 5th injector for high boost, it's all plumbed and wired up, but the wideband is telling me I don't need it, so I haven't been using it....yet.


ummm that sounds way off. where did the turbo come from?


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Yeah been thinking about that. I didn't really preload the wastegate at all after I was done clocking it. I didn't realize I had too. I think I'll do that, and build a boost leak tester and see where it takes me. :/

Edit: Yeah I definitely screwed that up. I have what would be zero preload according to this. But hey at least I learned something... Sigh 

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_wastegate

Can't wait to get the garage and fix this up though, the whole idea was I wanted a fast spool time,


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Ok I added 7mm of wastegate spring preload, not sure if this is enough as it for sure improved, but not to where I would like it? 

It without a doubt spools faster now, But still not as fast as I originally expected it to. I can see full 16psi by about 3500rpm, and part throttle boost response is massively improved. (I had to redo all my EBC settings, and this time I set the high boost to 16lbs, and played with the extra injector. I got worried 12.5 was too lean, so I got them down to 11.0 - 11.5 AFR's. Sometimes dips in rich into the 10's but comes back out as revs climb.

How much does the Schrick 272 play into spool time? I know other guys in this very thread are using it, but a friend thought it might be partially that?


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> Ok I added 7mm of wastegate spring preload, not sure if this is enough as it for sure improved, but not to where I would like it?
> 
> It without a doubt spools faster now, But still not as fast as I originally expected it to. I can see full 16psi by about 3500rpm, and part throttle boost response is massively improved. (I had to redo all my EBC settings, and this time I set the high boost to 16lbs, and played with the extra injector. I got worried 12.5 was too lean, so I got them down to 11.0 - 11.5 AFR's. Sometimes dips in rich into the 10's but comes back out as revs climb.
> 
> How much does the Schrick 272 play into spool time? I know other guys in this very thread are using it, but a friend thought it might be partially that?


What kind of EBC? Most of the good ones and the one built into MS2/Extra and MS3 firmwares completely bypass pressure to the waste gate until they are close to target which really helps spool. Of course 16psi by 3500 is not too shabby at all. I was kind of surprised at the spool on my EFR (very smooth and linear to throttle input but I don't hit 14psi till 3700+ WOT) but I have a truly crappy turbo manifold, mediocre boost plumbing, and a VR6 3.38r&p and now that I am used to it I kinda like it. The car still hauls behind and is a hoot to drive.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

It's an HDI Type D, it's a closed loop type EBC. It has it's own built in MAP sensor, they say it can speed up spool time. It does do a very good job of holding whatever boost you dial in, it's has very little or none of that slight boost spike that my friends cars have on initial spool up (they kinda hit 2 psi higher then their set boost level on spool up). This one seems to either not do it, or a few times it has spiked up 1 psi over my set point then immediately settled back into my set boost and holds it steady all the way through the rest of the rev range.

Also I played around on my way home from work, in a tall gear like 4th or 5th If I load it up and wait a second, it technically will hit 16psi at as low as 3200rpm. So that's probably in line with a .42/.48 T3 on a 1781cc 8v. Honestly once I'm on the go, I'm never out of boost and the car seems pretty strong, a lot stronger than the old G60 was with a 68mm. My SSQV is doing a really good job of not dumping all the boost and with a fast shift (the faster the shift, the quieter it is) it just stays spooled up and pulling hard. 

Overall pretty happy with the turbo conversion. :thumbup:

Next up Mega Squirt & Street Radial II's.










This was the old G-Lader setup, which of course was doomed to fail right from go.


----------



## 2pointgo (Jul 3, 2013)

*aba turbo setup*



rabbitchaser said:


> You don't have enough fuel you will need stage 2 and 440 injectors and maybe a second fuel pump to safely run 20psi


Thanks for the reply and advice....

So I take it that 18 psi is a safe zone for what I have then huh? Oh well, still, its a blast to drive. Hell to drive in the rain and have fun. Figured even though I had bigger injectors even on a stock fuel pump and double stacked headgaskets that I could run 20 psi without breaking any thing.
Checked my spool the other day, start spooling at 3200 rpm and hit full 18 psi at 4300........ Oh yeah!!!!!!!


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Watch your afr keep it no higher than 12.5 in boost, it all depends on volume of air from the turbo like running 20 psi on a k03 , then switching to a gt28 you can't run 20 psi on the same injectors


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Even with a small turbo isn't 18psi unheard of with a stock fuel pump? Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought our fuel pumps maxed out around 14-15psi. And easy with the ricer word, everyone has different interpretations amigo :beer:


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Got the 02j and LSD in with new clutch setup. Running 15PSI currently.



























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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

That eurovan slave cylinder bent my clutch pedal after about a year of daily driving


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

This won't be daily driven. So far it feels good! 


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

Sweet baby Jesus


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## 2pointgo (Jul 3, 2013)

MahTrek=] said:


> Even with a small turbo isn't 18psi unheard of with a stock fuel pump? Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought our fuel pumps maxed out around 14-15psi. And easy with the ricer word, everyone has different interpretations amigo :beer:


Gotcha on the "ricer" word. Maybe should say asain cars?!?! None the less not wanting to piss anyone off but still having fun whooping up on them with my little 2.0.......lol Not sure about the fuel pump thing or not but the injectors i have came from a buick regal with the 3.8 supercharged engine. According to the manufacture number on them they are 388 cc (38 lb) injectors and seem to work fine with the boost that i run. Did have to put small washers under the mounting tabs of the fuel rail though because they are like an 1/8 longer. When i put the first set in i busted the little plastic piece that holds the rubber o' rings in place. I dont have a wideband gauge yet due to funds but i do have an autometer narrowband gauge. Will this work for now? Read somewhere that i can tap into my oxygen sensor wire and run it like that but not sure on this. I do know for a fact vw's are very touchy and sensitive when it comes to the wiring and electrical systems.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I used to run a narrow band tapped into the ECU signal wire. Then I ran a wideband, and used the simulator out for the ECU. My current set up has 2 02 bungs, so I run one of each. 

All of the ways it worked fine, but I've heard that a poorly installed or damaged narrow band can screw with the signal the ECU sees.


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## 2pointgo (Jul 3, 2013)

The gauge I have is new in the box, doesn't guarantee it works though. Just wasn't to sure if I could tap into the original wiring safely or not. Can't always believe what you read, found this out the hard way, not saying it can't be done. Just like to hear it from someone with experience. If it weren't for the vortex and all the good people here my car wouldn't be what she is now. Thanks for all the advice and pointers. Will install the narrow band and turn it up to 20 psi and see how she does. Would putting in a 4 bar fpr maybe cure some fuel issues if they arise from the higher boost? If not then she'll stay where she is.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

http://youtu.be/bhWNERUiLwM


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> http://youtu.be/bhWNERUiLwM


Looks good man


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> http://youtu.be/bhWNERUiLwM


Sounds great too :thumbup:


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Thanks! I lowered the idle yesterday. Boost controller goes in next week? Let's see how 20-22psi feels? http://youtu.be/J4iAiDaqav0


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

So spec clutch blew apart after 2k miles and installing a fx400 now but deciding on whether to stay oem flywheel or lightweight.... Input? Bad idea?


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Just finished my Holset build.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Just finished my Holset build.


25PSI on 93oct +w/m +6* additional timing on a mustang dyno in 70* weather... GO. DO IT. NOW.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Just finished my Holset build.


:thumbup:
WOW, thats a killer setup

I always get seriously motivated by this thread. Also more and more convinced you just don't need 16v's


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> 25PSI on 93oct +w/m +6* additional timing on a mustang dyno in 70* weather... GO. DO IT. NOW.


Right now im only at 18psi + water/meth, Im liking it.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

where did that intake manifold come from Tony?


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Bought it from a member on here.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

same guy you asked me about? or a different one?

Also I am going to redoing my bay here soon. New radiator, coolant lines, and ac lines. All you guys are puttiing me to shame :wave:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

No different person, the garbage I got from that original person I asked you about is sitting on a shelf in my garage.... Basically a $350 paperweight.


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

T.o.n.y 

Looks amazing set up should rip


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Looks sweet Tony!


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Right now im only at 18psi + water/meth, Im liking it.


oh i bet, im just looking to compare your numbers to mine. :beer:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> oh i bet, im just looking to compare your numbers to mine. :beer:


Ok here is what Im running, let me know where you think I am power wise. 

OBD2 ABA Block
OBD1 ABA head lightly ported
C2 head spacer 8.5:1
ARP head studs
Autotech 270 cam
TTT adjustable came gear, currently set at stock cam timing.
TTT knock sensor spacer
Kinetic turbo manifold gasket matched
Holset HY35w, ceramic coated housings.
Tial 38mm wastegate w/ External dump. 
Turbo XS dual stage boost controller
Custom SRI w/ velocity stacks
3" turbo back exhaust
27x7x2.5 intercooler
2" hot side piping
2.5" cold side piping
Authentic Greddy BOV recirc'd
CoolingMist stg. 1 water/meth ( currently only using distilled water & HEET ) 
AEB single port waterpump
MSD Blaster SS ignition coil
New Bosch Cap & rotor
New NGK plug cables
NKG BKR7E plugs gapped currently to .025
10lbs flywheel balanced
FX stg. 1 clutch
02J trans from 02' 1.8T GTI


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Should be out to the track next week. Figured out my new radiator setup. I sorta feel like swapping my engine out for my other one(less 100k on it!)Maybe I'll do it all at the same time. You all are making my setup look bad :laugh:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe,

What kind of setup did it take to first break into the 12's? And guesses on HP number to do that? And what transmission where you on?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I did a 12.9 on street tires. Same setup as the 12.2 on the slicks

Stock bottom end, stock head(at 270 cam), 57 trim turbo, 23 psi. Vr6 final drive and a lsd. 

my 60 ft was a 1.9 on the 12.9 and 1.83 on the slicks. I gained the time in second gear. On street tires I had to pedal it. With Slicks its just hard to remember to shift right lol


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

So.......If anyone wants to go faster, chances are I have what you need in my FS thread. It's time to hang em up....

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ject-car-partout-in-NoVA-Leather-seats-extras


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Random question here but what psi/power is c2motorsports stage 1 software good for? There is no description for what its capable of on their website but there is for the stage 2?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

VW Schmidt said:


> Random question here but what psi/power is c2motorsports stage 1 software good for? There is no description for what its capable of on their website but there is for the stage 2?


Up to 12psi safely.


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

went through every page before posting. eace:

i am currently NA and in the future, planning on a turbo set up

1. i didnt see where many of ya'll were running the 272 cam from TT (any specific reason why?)

2. i am in the middle of a rebuild ATM, head rebuild, hi-flo valves- HD springs, ARP studs, TB, new everything from TT. I wouldnt want to run stacked head gaskets on an NA car correct?

3. i saw way back where a chap was running a WRX turbo, does anyone have any more info on that. my neighbor has 3-4 of them and i can get one for next to nothing. 

thanks guys :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

The wide lobe 276 has just been proven to be the all around best cam, that's all.

If you are dead set on going turbo it would be fine to run a spacer or stacked gaskets now....no issue there.

A wrx turbo is only going to mean you are limited to their turbos until you reinvent the wheel with your exhaust manifold. Do yourself a favor and get a t3 housed turbo and manifold and do it right the first time....because no one in this game really ends up keeping baby turbos like that once the addiction hits.

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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

the purpose of the car is strictly a fun canyon car/daily driver for here in colorado so all i am looking for is a FAST spooling turbo.. did know if the WRX turbo would get me there. 


also, i am VERY new to ABA's dont know if it has been tried but what about a franken turbo? k03 with k04 internals?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Yea it's been done but I'm gonna say this right now....20psi on an ABA with a wrx turbo will feel like a chipped k04 mk4.....aka not that great. You can get a smaller a/r T3-T04E and hit 20psi by 3300 and be much happier.

And I'm sure the frankenturbo has been done many times.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

got it :thumbup:
so based on my research i should be able to reach my goal or get pretty close with what i have planned
wanting around 200 WHP

will have mild build head 272 cam valves, springs, etc. 
mk4 intake mani set up
2.5" full exhaust
fairly small turbo such as a stock k03 or k03s, or saab turbo (now looking at t3-t04 turbos) 


bare with me... trying my best not to ask stupid "use the search button" questions. :laugh:


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Keepin mind to check the valve over lap on that cam as you don't want too much. A t3/t4 50 trim is a nice size turbo, but keep in mind the smaller the turbo the more torque spike at low rpm's and factory 020 trans don't like it lol


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I feel like most people are too sensitive to overlap regardless...as long as it not a 282 or greater duration, for what he's wanting to do, it's completely fine.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Good point, I am running a straight 268 tt cam with no problems, I just checked with Collin as precaution before running it


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

PBWB said:


> Yea it's been done but I'm gonna say this right now....20psi on an ABA with a wrx turbo will feel like a chipped k04 mk4.....aka not that great. You can get a smaller a/r T3-T04E and hit 20psi by 3300 and be much happier.
> 
> And I'm sure the frankenturbo has been done many times.
> 
> ...


What size turbine are you talking about?



rhinoVdub, I'm running a baby .42/.48 T3 50trim. I'm sure it's right around 200whp @ 18psi (but it's only a 1.8 bottom end). I realize if it was a T3/T4 with a .63 turbine I would likely be a bunch more at that boost level, but it spools fast, and not just when I load it up in 4th, but right in 1st and 2nd. 

Only thing is if you're on the highway and cruising at 65-70mph, it has a bit of a twitchy-ness to it.


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Im with this other guy im also planning a future turbo build and have read through most of the pages in this thread.. What i have planned is to pull a garrett from a saab rebuild it and run 8-10 psi on stock compression (at first) and use that as a learning experience before i look hit certain power goals etc. Would using a stock cam be acceptable on a turbo application or is a cam upgrade a must? Whats the all around best cam thats flexible with different boost applications if thats the case? I did a full rebuild last year, had the head sent out and valves,guides, seals all replaced etc so my entire motor has been gone through and its mechanically sound. My plan so far (any input appreciated) junkyard garrett (relatively small), front mount pushing 8-10 psi, stock comp, recirc bov, c2 30lb inj, stg 1 software, stock clutch.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

oh my goodness...

I've run, td04, td05-B16G, FP_Red, and HX35. I can tell you just how all of them respond from REAL WORLD experience on an 8v.

20psi on the td04 stock wrx turbo: 2700 in 3rd

on the 16g: 3200rpm

on the FP Red 3500

on the HX35 3700


all in 3rd gear. all on pump gas. ALL on sub optimal tunes


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

So the wrx would be a peppy turbo to look at as a possibility?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rhinoVdub said:


> So the wrx would be a peppy turbo to look at as a possibility?


yes but you will beg for more. I'd go straight for a Big 16G for my first one. If you stay tuned we might have a perfect setup for you here at USRT


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Sure....but ONLY if you're dead set on 200whp. Otherwise you will just end up reinventing the wheel like 95% of people who turbo an 8v because they see that it's not impresive. At all.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

Well I'm trying to stay as cost effective as possible for the initial set up, this will be my first experience with a turbo on a non factory turbo car. Would it have to be a custom manifold for that or would the wrx turbo bolt up to one already available?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

And let's not forget I too had a t3/t04b .48 a/r turbo before q ever had his vw, let alone a turbo on it. So I've got some REAL WORLD experience too.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

I'm not dead set on 200 just figured that would be a solid goal for a first timer like myself.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> And let's not forget I too had a t3/t04b .48 a/r turbo before q ever had his vw, let alone a turbo on it. So I've got some REAL WORLD experience too.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


that doesnt count! :laugh:


i'd say if the kid has it, let him run with a stock wrx turbo so long as he has the ability to make it work fabrication wise. Its a good learning curve without so much of an ability to blow things up


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I just hate to see people spend 500% more time on a build because they don't truly know wtf they want....Just want to make sure you're not that guy.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

That's why I came here... Lol don't want to be that guy either... But realistic I'd be content with a baby turbo as long as I could keep her reliable. I only brought up that turbo cause the neighbor has one for cheap. Not dead set on anything at this time. Just trying to read and learn before I even consider tackling setting her up


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> I just hate to see people spend 500% more time on a build because they don't truly know wtf they want....Just want to make sure you're not that guy.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


experience talking...for sure. :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Don't hate because I'm trying to graduate. You never hacked it in the hardcore world either Q....you just have the popular vote by posting everything on here to get followers. Smdh I remember alost a decade ago when my car had BEEN turbo'd and no one gave you the time of day. You were the junior then and you're definitely not on top now either, so let's cut the crap.

And your comeback was quite lame I must add.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Just put the car together. Everybody on here just wants to report what they've heard from others.


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

root beer said:


> Just put the car together.


This is the most sound advice given in this thread. Put it together, let it run, let in break then fix it. 

I'm running a 15g out of an older volvo, will it kill the 020? Eventually it probably will. Will it bottle neck at 220-250hp yes, likely at about the same point that my bosh red tops will run out of fuel. Will it be the fastest? Not even close, but it's fun to drive spools quick and the UM stage 1 tune cost more then half the budget for the entire build.


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

1slowVW said:


> This is the most sound advice given in this thread. Put it together, let it run, let in break then fix it.
> 
> I'm running a 15g out of an older volvo, will it kill the 020? Eventually it probably will. Will it bottle neck at 220-250hp yes, likely at about the same point that my bosh red tops will run out of fuel. Will it be the fastest? Not even close, but it's fun to drive spools quick and the UM stage 1 tune cost more then half the budget for the entire build.
> 
> I like what youve said there.. :thumbup:.. Thats my thinking as you can see from my post.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Must have over tightened this bolt from turbo to manifold... Heard an exhaust leak and found this one snapped... What is everyone using to fasten the turbo to manifold?









I just ordered the following to try from McMaster 

Grade 9 Oval-Top Hex Locknut, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, 9/16" Width, 13/32" Height, 

Type 316 Stainless Steel Wedge Lock Washer, 3/8" Screw Size, .65" OD, .09" Thick, 

Grade 9 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw, Zinc-Yellow Plated, 3/8"-16 Thread, 1-1/2" Length, 


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Also designed this for my front badge in place of the VW logo 


















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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rhinoVdub said:


> I'm not dead set on 200 just figured that would be a solid goal for a first timer like myself.


What could possibly be wrong with 200whp in a MK1 or MK2? 



carrolltoncorrado said:


> Must have over tightened this bolt from turbo to manifold... Heard an exhaust leak and found this one snapped... What is everyone using to fasten the turbo to manifold? http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/01/a71b459c5d4d0d5760a8b39ea6f2063c.jpg
> 
> I just ordered the following to try from McMaster
> 
> ...


I used a black oxide hex head flange bolt, no washers, and the manifold was tapped, so no locknuts. But you have the oval type lock type, so you should be fine there. If it's hard to get a socket on the lock nuts, remember Copper lock nuts come in a smaller 12mm hex for clearance issue.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

They also make a locking device that works well for turbo mount hardware and keeps things from backing out. I'll try and find a link later.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Strange thing on mine was it didn't back out. It snapped off. I can only think I over tightened then it heated up and had no room to expand ? 
Only one of four snapped 











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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

It could have been a number of things....how used the bolt was, heat cycling, torque value, etc. I wouldn't get too wrapped up in that though.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Yah I'm just gonna swap and and give it a go! 


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

oval topped lock nuts= crushed nuts.


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## POPOTROPOPIC3 (Apr 3, 2013)

*3 Inch MAF housing. If anyone needs..*

I've been running my prototype for the whole summer and have had no problems. I thought it would be a good cheap alternative to aluminum or a VR Housing. I make these. http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=151457291614&alt=web


Thought someone might find a use here.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

C2 stage. 2 guys, what are you guys seeing for MAF readings? I've got a super intermittent issue, at higher boost (19psi) at WOT 5000+ rpm long pull I max at 114 g/s then shoot lean and throw an intermittent P0103 MAF high input fault. Same issue happens with 4 different Oem Bosch MAFs. 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

jettatech said:


> oval topped lock nuts= crushed nuts.













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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I'll give you all a tip

Nord locks. I use them on every turbo build I do. Never 1 single issue:beer:

Also on the Koupe front found a sweet a junkyard in my town. Got a whole new ac system outta a mk3 ( 45 bucks) and a bunch of stuff off a mint mk2. Will be redoing the whole bay this month.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> I'll give you all a tip
> 
> Nord locks. I use them on every turbo build I do. Never 1 single issue:beer:
> 
> Also on the Koupe front found a sweet a junkyard in my town. Got a whole new ac system outta a mk3 ( 45 bucks) and a bunch of stuff off a mint mk2. Will be redoing the whole bay this month.


Also ordered the nord washers 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91812a231/=ufv2ee











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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

NordLok washers are the best.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

jettatech said:


> oval topped lock nuts= crushed nuts.


LOL, it's in reference to lock nuts that use a crimp in the crown to hold them in place, vs those that have a Nylon insert. Glowing red exhaust and nylon...it doesn't work for the obvious reasons.






























[email protected] said:


> NordLok washers are the best.


Where are you ABA-T guys finding bolts coming out that a Nordlok is necessary? I only ever heard of these because a buddy's procharger pulley bolt kept backing out, and we stumbled on to them looking for a solution.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

It happens all the time....a friend of mine's VRT keeps backing out downpipe bolts all day long....even with loctite. Nordlok was what I was thinking about.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Look into stage 8 bolts there spendy but will never come loose I usedthem on my old turbo manifold


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

rhinoVdub said:


> I'm not dead set on 200 just figured that would be a solid goal for a first timer like myself.



i would love 200 wheel on my mk1 2100 lbs and that much power would be quite interesting...


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> C2 stage. 2 guys, what are you guys seeing for MAF readings? I've got a super intermittent issue, at higher boost (19psi) at WOT 5000+ rpm long pull I max at 114 g/s then shoot lean and throw an intermittent P0103 MAF high input fault. Same issue happens with 4 different Oem Bosch MAFs.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


Anyone have any input on this?


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

I don't have a obd port 


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## Rastamonsta123 (Nov 4, 2014)

Anyone ever think of running there AC to blow cold air into there front mount instead of into there car ?? Or am I just thinking way to far out of the box here.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Yes, you're way out in left field. Vehicle air conditioners are designed to operate with enough efficiency to blow air at 30 degrees below ambient. Save yourself the hassle and get a water/meth kit if you want to keep intake temps down.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Does anyone know where I could pick up a smaller hotside (.48) for my garrett t3/t4 57 trim?
I currently have .63, and it hits full boost (17-18lbs) after 5k rpm. I would like to have it around 4k rpm.

I would like to run a smaller radiator and slim fans (2x12"). Any suggestions ? I was looking at del sol radiator and one 12" fan but not sure if that would be enough to cool the car.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I might have one but that sounds pretty high....I used to see 19psi at around 4200 rpms IIRC. What tune do you have?

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

What are you trying to accomplish with the coolant system? If it's just a space issue, just do slim fans and be done.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Right now C2 440cc. I'm planning on running custom UM tune once I have the 2.5" exhaust.


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

PBWB said:


> What are you trying to accomplish with the coolant system? If it's just a space issue, just do slim fans and be done.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


I just want a cleaner bay.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Ok so same tune I had. Now what exhaust are you running?

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Stock size w 2.5" test pipe


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

That's your problem. The less back pressure the better. Ideally a 3 inch is best, but will be louder.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

I'm getting a TT SS 2.5" exhaust as soon as the holiday sales hit.
I was thinking of 3", but can't find a place that sells it. (I'll take suggestions).


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

http://gpopshop.com/rebuilt-garrett-journal-bearing-turbos/

Would this be a good option for a mild aba turbo build? Probably have to choose the standard t3 flange over the strange chrysler one.


----------



## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

PBWB said:


> What are you trying to accomplish with the coolant system? If it's just a space issue, just do slim fans and be done.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


How strong should I go with the fan? Shroud, no shroud?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

TM87 said:


> I'm getting a TT SS 2.5" exhaust as soon as the holiday sales hit.
> I was thinking of 3", but can't find a place that sells it. (I'll take suggestions).


Google mandrel bending solutions in Pasadena maryland. They might ship yoou one out, but specify what muffler you want otherwise you'll get a crappy Boar brand.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

TM87 said:


> How strong should I go with the fan? Shroud, no shroud?


As big as you can unless you're running duals. And I'd definitely make a shroud. It helps quite a bit, but build it right. Gaps will make your cooling system lose efficiency because the fan will not draw in as much hot air from the radiator as rapidly (it will more or less push through based on the speed you're going). The more quality in the fan, the more you can trust it's CFM rating. Cheap fans that say they pull 1200 or 1600 probably on pull 65-75% of that in reality.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

coolalex said:


> http://gpopshop.com/rebuilt-garrett-journal-bearing-turbos/
> 
> Would this be a good option for a mild aba turbo build? Probably have to choose the standard t3 flange over the strange chrysler one.


Not sure how reputable that place is.....but I wouldn't skimp on a turbo and am a fan of always buying new. Besides you can get a good turbo new for what that guy is selling a rebuilt unit for.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

PBWB said:


> Not sure how reputable that place is.....but I wouldn't skimp on a turbo and am a fan of always buying new. Besides you can get a good turbo new for what that guy is selling a rebuilt unit for.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


what would you recomend?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Depends what your goal is. A t3/t04e 50 trim is a great turbo that will make 300+whp and give plenty of options to tailor to your spooling needs. If you are on facebook, search for Paul Calado and tell him Apple sent ya. He runs Boost Factory and I buy my turbos through him.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

coolalex said:


> http://gpopshop.com/rebuilt-garrett-journal-bearing-turbos/
> 
> Would this be a good option for a mild aba turbo build? Probably have to choose the standard t3 flange over the strange chrysler one.


GpopShop has been in the game a long time now. Always been VERY reputable with great customer service for supplying new turbos, rebuilt turbos, and rebuild kits. I've gone thru them a few times and spoken with them on the phone to get issues resolved with no problems. Make sure you get a t3 flange so you have options later down the road.:beer:


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

What kind of vacuum are you guys seeing at idle with stock cams? Installed my usrt intake and now i am idling at 1200 rpm and about 22in of vacuum. Before i was idling at 900 rpm, unsure of vacuum. 
I have searched and searched and cannot find any leaks. FML. 
Thanks


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

coolalex said:


> http://gpopshop.com/rebuilt-garrett-journal-bearing-turbos/
> 
> Would this be a good option for a mild aba turbo build? Probably have to choose the standard t3 flange over the strange chrysler one.


I have run there turbo for 5 years. 0 issues at 22 psi daily


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> C2 stage. 2 guys, what are you guys seeing for MAF readings? I've got a super intermittent issue, at higher boost (19psi) at WOT 5000+ rpm long pull I max at 114 g/s then shoot lean and throw an intermittent P0103 MAF high input fault. Same issue happens with 4 different Oem Bosch MAFs. Didnt have this issue with my last little Garret .42/.48 at 20psi.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


Hey still trying to figure this out, anyone have any info?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

If it's not a maf issue it's either an ecu or wiring issue that has developed over time.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Would you gravitate towards an ecu over wiring? Mainly because it will only trigger the issue in a long high boost pull. I can bury the tach in 1st-3rd gear no issues.


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

That's a tough call.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I've got spare ecu's I'll swap one and see


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

thats seems a little late for boost on the .63 housing. depending on cam, you have 2,000 rpms of usable boost? That turbo is only good until 21-23 psi on my car= surge city ! I found .48 housings choked my car, i had it on a turbonetics h trim. I suggested .63 because it doenst choke the exhaust but adds a little lag. Ive had this 8vt with 2.5" exhaust since '04, so i played with some stuff. I would never go back to .48 but I wouldnt be happy with a 5k waiting period as well. Possible to play with cam timing to help out? pte 5857= nap before boost. i lost a second in quarter mile, so i put old .57 trim back on.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

At what HP level does the .48 turbine become a choke point?


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

its not about hp g60, but about back pressure.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Yeah.

But at some power level the .48 is going to be ideal, and at some point the .63 or bigger will be ideal. The .48 will create too much pressure in the exhaust manifold and hurt your top end.

For example I doubt a 160hp ABA would want a .63 turbine. It's just going to be lazy, and at the same time a 350hp ABA isn't going to be running a .48 hot side. So my question where is the sweet spot for the switch over. Is there one?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Mid way through my ac system redo. The mk3 stuff fits very nicely on the mk2 radiator. I have the radiator in the stock location again, my intercooler pipes have room! Overall once I do the ac lines this weekend I'll be very happy!


----------



## LiBlackRabbit (Oct 8, 2003)

Where does one even start to put a kit together? Seems most are discontinued. I assume scavenge in classifieds 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

LiBlackRabbit said:


> Where does one even start to put a kit together? Seems most are discontinued. I assume scavenge in classifieds
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Turbo, Manifold, exhaust piping/flanges, intake piping,clamps, and intercooler, fuel injectors, annnnnnd tune.

Thats about it for the *basics*.


----------



## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

You guys running gaskets on turbo to manifold? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I do. 

If you're running a T3 turbine, you can just ask your parts guy for a turbo gasket kit for a Merkur XR4Ti. At least that's what I did, it was a felpro set and it came with oil feed & drain gasket too for a whole $5


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Ive searched and searched for hours but cant find a definitive answer.

Oil feed line; is it better to use the side of the head, or the top of the oil filter housing (with an oil restrictor?) for a garrett t3


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I've heard both are acceptable, but in the end I went off the oil filter housing.

I can say that with my aftermarket oil pressure gauge pulling off the side of the head, oil pressure from there can get quite low at idle when the engine is hot. Like sub 10 psi sometimes. It shoots right up the second you rev it, but it might be better to just keep a higher supply of oil going through the turbo at all times?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-(ABA-head)&p=86240170&posted=1#post86240170


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

G60 Carat said:


> I've heard both are acceptable, but in the end I went off the oil filter housing.
> 
> I can say that with my aftermarket oil pressure gauge pulling off the side of the head, oil pressure from there can get quite low at idle when the engine is hot. Like sub 10 psi sometimes. It shoots right up the second you rev it, but it might be better to just keep a higher supply of oil going through the turbo at all times?
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-(ABA-head)&p=86240170&posted=1#post86240170


Thanks for the reply! What restrictor did you use, if any? 

One more question, for those of you using mafs, how did you hook up your diverter valves? And pictures if possible!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

coolalex said:


> Thanks for the reply! What restrictor did you use, if any?
> 
> One more question, for those of you using mafs, how did you hook up your diverter valves? And pictures if possible!


I used a .060". Now I've heard some people say you don't need them if you run -3 AN lines (But I am using -4AN line), so I measured the thickness of a -3AN line, and at the hose end where the inside teflon is crimped down a bit, it's right around .070 to .080", so in a weird way a -3AN line acts as a restrictor in-itself


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Picked up 3" exhaust 2nd hand from MBS. its aluminum, but it will do. Price is right. 
Cant wait to open up this bad boy even more. Next 276 cam and UM custom tune.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

UM is doing custom tunes now ??? For ob2 I would guess


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Anyone happen to know where I can find a 2.5" ic pipe with a bung on it for a diverter valve? Can't find them anywhere.


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

rabbitchaser said:


> UM is doing custom tunes now ??? For ob2 I would guess


They are not, but they did a tune for a car with similar specs as mine. So I imagine they will use that same tune on my car.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

coolalex said:


> Anyone happen to know where I can find a 2.5" ic pipe with a bung on it for a diverter valve? Can't find them anywhere.


I know there is silicone coupler versions of that, I'm using one. But seriously, eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/63mm-2-5-T-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item46144a747e&vxp=mtr









Found a hard adapter too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOV-T-Pipe-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e60410d50&vxp=mtr


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## coolalex (Jan 20, 2012)

Thanks! wasnt able to find one to save my life :laugh:


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

TM87 said:


> Picked up 3" exhaust 2nd hand from MBS. its aluminum, but it will do. Price is right.
> Cant wait to open up this bad boy even more. Next 276 cam and UM custom tune.


Buy some earplugs for the exhaust. Aluminium sucks


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

.therealvrt said:


> Buy some earplugs for the exhaust. Aluminium sucks


i want to try it , and see if i can live with the noise. If it works out, ill invest in SS exhaust. I might invest in some sound deadening material, to keep the noise down.



Is anybody selling their 276 turbo cam and .48 hot side for garrett turbo? Im looking for a holiday gift for my car.:laugh:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Re-routed my isv last night( finally) On the way home I did a 2-4 pull. Ever since then car wont run for ****. Idle is pegged 10.00. Found out I melted a piston finally! 140- 90-140-140........ Alittle oil in the hole and we had 140 across the board.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Thats a bummer man, whats your plan? OE rebuild again or upgrades this time around?


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Dang!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Thats a bummer man, whats your plan? OE rebuild again or upgrades this time around?


for now throw my stock spare block in. Already have the motor out and apart. Gotta find some head gaskets tomorrow


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*almost done!*

This took a long time but were getting there!! ABA block and head! 
Ceramic coated piston tops
550cc injectors out of a turbo 2 rx7
Turbonetics t3-t4/.48 exhaust 61trim seven blade
Ms1 v3.0 ecu
Aeromotive fpr 
Stock fuel rail modified for an -6 fuel lines
268* tt cam
Custom short runner manifold
Ported head done in house,portmatch,short turn radius,guide mods,throat modification and valve seats
Stock compression.
Pics to come!


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

I think some folks are mixing "aluminum" with "aluminized steel"


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rodperformance said:


> This took a long time but were getting there!! ABA block and head!
> Ceramic coated piston tops
> 550cc injectors out of a turbo 2 rx7
> Turbonetics t3-t4/.48 exhaust 61trim seven blade
> ...


Been busy I see! :thumbup:

I exploded the spider gears inside my trans, but it was 2 days prior to the day I was going to park it for winter, so not that tragic.


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## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

root beer said:


> I think some folks are mixing "aluminum" with "aluminized steel"


x2


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*mr West*

Hi there mate!! 02A is on your near future I foresee!or an o2J.What we are doing is fitting 1.8t gears and 3.68 fd good luck mate


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Well I ended up doing a bunch of stuff to the new motor. Mainly just the maintenance stuff( Waterpump,tbelt, seals)
Now my boss has a valve cutting setup so I am going to do that on the new head along with transfer all my goodies into the new head. 

Here's my question. Is it worth doing a quick gasket match on this head? I have till sunday before I really need the car back so I can take my time with it.

This is my "new" short block all mated up to the trans waiting on the top end.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> Well I ended up doing a bunch of stuff to the new motor. Mainly just the maintenance stuff( Waterpump,tbelt, seals)
> Now my boss has a valve cutting setup so I am going to do that on the new head along with transfer all my goodies into the new head.
> 
> Here's my question. Is it worth doing a quick gasket match on this head? I have till sunday before I really need the car back so I can take my time with it.
> ...


if you can and you have the time. yes. it wont hurt.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

It's ALWAYS worth it to port match, but it's even more worth it to make the outgoing side of the intake manifold to be a mm or 2 larger than the cylinder head to account for any shifting or slop when the manifold goes on. Remember these aren't exactly precision engineered items as far as fitment is concerned. Just make sure your gasket is matched to the intake manifold side otherwise you'll leave a "step" or restriction in the airflow path.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

rodperformance said:


> This took a long time but were getting there!! ABA block and head!
> Ceramic coated piston tops
> 550cc injectors out of a turbo 2 rx7
> Turbonetics t3-t4/.48 exhaust 61trim seven blade
> ...


Ceramic coated pistons on stock compression, Interesting. I like your manifold setup. How much psi do you plan to run?


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*hi*

Hi mate I was running 20psi on double stacked gaskets,then the vacuum line to the fpr was unplugged,4th gear pull and messed a almost new rebuild engine!! On single gasket runs great off boost but timing under boost was set at 18degrees so far so good as long as the fueling is there!! No detonation heard.soon will hit the Dyno but before I have to tore the top end because there is a strange sound that concerns me,knocking is at idle or decel, at 2000rpm or higher the sound goes away.when the engine is under load there is no sound untill decel!! Weird right!.All hardware is new,bearings,oil pump,lifters.friday will open the engine to find what the heck is wrong,thinking maybe piston pin or piston slap. sorry this is a crapy pic of the thermal barrier applied to the piston tops it reduce heat spots and detonation by reflecting the heat back to the combustion chamber.it works? Dont know but shortly we will as they will be exposed to 25psi of boost.if I make it to dascoupe's# I'll be happy!! Later mates!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

PBWB said:


> It's ALWAYS worth it to port match, but it's even more worth it to make the outgoing side of the intake manifold to be a mm or 2 larger than the cylinder head to account for any shifting or slop when the manifold goes on. Remember these aren't exactly precision engineered items as far as fitment is concerned. Just make sure your gasket is matched to the intake manifold side otherwise you'll leave a "step" or restriction in the airflow path.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


well I am looking at the head. The only place to port match is the exhaust side. The intake is already to the gasket. What areas should I hit. I would like to keep the valve guide haha.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/allmotor8v/head/aba_ports_4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/allmotor8v/head/aba_ports_3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/allmotor8v/head/aba_ports_2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/allmotor8v/head/aba_ports_1.jpg


using these as a reference. Removing the valve guide from the intake track to make that bowl as nice as i can. I am going to work on the exhaust port pretty heavily. I couldn't find any of Tdoggs Stg5 head but he had no valve guides in both tracks and I think made 160 whp na

machine shop is closed today and tomorrow. So monday I'll run it over for a cleaning pass on the head and the 3 angle valve job


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Is the 276 turbo cam worth the cash?? Im thinking of getting one as a gift from the wifelaugh, now that they are 20%.

So far i only have stock OBD2 head, will heavy duty valve springs??


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

I love mine! Sounds and feels great 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> I love mine! Sounds and feels great
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hows the affect on spool?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

TM87 said:


> Is the 276 turbo cam worth the cash
> 
> So far i only have stock OBD2 head, will heavy duty valve springs??


MMM not clear if that's a question or statement? But you will need them for a 276. :thumbup:


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

It was supposed to be a question. If I will need them of not.
Gotta check TT to see if there is a sale going on.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Heres a quick video starting down low in 2nd gear.






PTE5558
276 turbo cam HD valve train and 15psi currently. going to 22psi soon
ON C2 Stage 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

its all fun and games...til you get to the sweet spot after 20psi


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Heres a quick video starting down low in 2nd gear.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hows the drivability? is it bucking or is it smooth on cruise...i have a similar setup/tune and mine bucks down low. not sure if its normal or not


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Drivability is good. It definitely bucks under 20mph down low. But once I'm driving out of a neighborhood it's smooth. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

my head is at the machine shop. Hopefully have her back tomorrow and its_ #elevenshereicome_


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> *#elevenshereicome*


:thumbup:

Just your everyday 11 second SOHC 8v. #underdogforlife :beer:


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Heres a quick video starting down low in 2nd gear.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


that dyno graph must be like a CLIFF @ 4K rpm


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Das are you going with larger valvea, also hopefully the more flow won't put you lean again up top. Decently need that lugtronics soon . 



Got all my fuel stuff in this week hoping to have it in the car by this weekend

Also windshield going in tomorrow and working on plastic Windows forvrest of car


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser said:


> Das are you going with larger valvea, also hopefully the more flow won't put you lean again up top. Decently need that lugtronics soon .


No stock size valves, very heavy intake bowl work,port matched exhaust, 3 angle valve job and a cleaing pass on the deck.

She's almost ready to go back in her home


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

My intake looks about the same with 1+ valves in it, port matched my intake to it also


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

getting there


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Looking good! Is just the head rebuilt? Or did you go through the block as well?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

The head yes. Bottom end is pretty low mileage. I resealed it. Didn't touch rings or bearings


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## BbakerVW (Mar 25, 2014)

I have a 2001 VW golf mk4 2.0l and need to change the vacuum hose. It is like 100 at the dealership because it is a hard plastic bit is it possible to just put a rubber vacuum hose on it in the place? 


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## BbakerVW (Mar 25, 2014)

I have a 2001 VW golf mk4 2.0l and need to change the vacuum hose. It is like 100 at the dealership because it is a hard plastic bit is it possible to just put a rubber vacuum hose on it in the place? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

BbakerVW said:


> I have a 2001 VW golf mk4 2.0l and need to change the vacuum hose. It is like 100 at the dealership because it is a hard plastic bit is it possible to just put a rubber vacuum hose on it in the place?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes


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## BbakerVW (Mar 25, 2014)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BbakerVW (Mar 25, 2014)

This is the part. I don't know what is in the middle of the hose but if I put just a straight piece on it it won't have that. Trying to stop the puddering and turn off the check engine light. 


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

BbakerVW said:


> This is the part. I don't know what is in the middle of the hose but if I put just a straight piece on it it won't have that. Trying to stop the puddering and turn off the check engine light.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


you have to put the check valve inline with the hose and make sure the end/nipple connecting back to the engine, you cant blow thru.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

edit: oops a minute late with that one, what he ^ said

One way valve, AKA "check valve" 

It let's the brake booster only see vacuum, and not boost. You can buy them, or carefully cut the one out of your broken OEM piece. When you install it, blow throw it. The side you can blow through goes to the brake booster. :thumbup:


P.S. The small nipple on it is just an additional port to the intake manifold, they can come plugged from the factory with little green caps or not, depends on what model car it was from. The valve can also have 2 nipples, again depends on the model car it's from. You can just plug them if you don't need them.


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## BbakerVW (Mar 25, 2014)

Okay, so my hose is cracked and leaking air , but I can keep the middle part and buy 2 smaller rubber hoses that will fit and clamp them on just salvaging the middle part. Also , making sure the middle part is hooked up the way it started ? Right ? 


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

BbakerVW said:


> Okay, so my hose is cracked and leaking air , but I can keep the middle part and buy 2 smaller rubber hoses that will fit and clamp them on just salvaging the middle part. Also , making sure the middle part is hooked up the way it started ? Right ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Exactly


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## BbakerVW (Mar 25, 2014)

Okay thank you for your help !! Really appreciate buddy. 


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Curious what everyone runs for 1/4 times with their aba-ts!!!
I went [email protected] with mine. 10psi. T3 w/td turbine cover/td manifold and dp. Stock oem exhaust. 
Fmic of course. 
I threw on a usrt intake at the end of the year and plan on a 276 wide cam (valvetrain too),arp headstuds, meth and about 3-4psi more than this year ( on stock comp ratio).


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## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> No stock size valves, very heavy intake bowl work,port matched exhaust, 3 angle valve job and a cleaing pass on the deck.
> 
> She's almost ready to go back in her home


any pics of the bowl work?


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

.therealvrt said:


> Curious what everyone runs for 1/4 times with their aba-ts!!!
> I went [email protected] with mine. 10psi. T3 w/td turbine cover/td manifold and dp. Stock oem exhaust.
> Fmic of course.
> I threw on a usrt intake at the end of the year and plan on a 276 wide cam (valvetrain too),arp headstuds, meth and about 3-4psi more than this year ( on stock comp ratio).


Went 10.76 a few years back:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78BgaUifgVw

Made some changes after theses passes and slipped the clutch badly on the dyno @ 400 whp. One of these days I'll get back to this car-- too many other projects.


----------



## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> Went 10.76 a few years back:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78BgaUifgVw
> 
> Made some changes after theses passes and slipped the clutch badly on the dyno @ 400 whp. One of these days I'll get back to this car-- too many other projects.


Wow. Very nice.i guess the lugnuts leap only comes out for single digit passes!!!
I am hoping to make it into the 13s at some point. My days of trying to go fast are over.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> Went 10.76 a few years back:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78BgaUifgVw
> 
> Made some changes after theses passes and slipped the clutch badly on the dyno @ 400 whp. One of these days I'll get back to this car-- too many other projects.


The in car video only shows 4 shifts to cross the line.



MarkEMorris 3 years ago said:


> ABA turbo, stock head, Lugtronic ecu & tune, 020, 22" slicks


Ok how? Can I assume ACN or some other .91 4th trans with a 3.67 final drive and reving to about 6800 or so to avoid the shift to 5th?

Also what's the weight of this car? And LSD?


----------



## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

.therealvrt said:


> Curious what everyone runs for 1/4 times with their aba-ts!!!
> I went [email protected] with mine. 10psi. T3 w/td turbine cover/td manifold and dp. Stock oem exhaust.
> Fmic of course.
> I threw on a usrt intake at the end of the year and plan on a 276 wide cam (valvetrain too),arp headstuds, meth and about 3-4psi more than this year ( on stock comp ratio).



I'm looking for a 14.99 with my sub 1000$ set up (which included motor/trans, and a 400$ tune). I'm thinking if I can borrow some sticky rubber it shouldn't be impossible at 10psi in a mk2.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.therealvrt said:


> Curious what everyone runs for 1/4 times with their aba-ts!!!
> I went [email protected] with mine. 10psi. T3 w/td turbine cover/td manifold and dp. Stock oem exhaust.
> Fmic of course.
> I threw on a usrt intake at the end of the year and plan on a 276 wide cam (valvetrain too),arp headstuds, meth and about 3-4psi more than this year ( on stock comp ratio).


12.2 @116 Daily driver with ac

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2PsTS_fEAk&list=UUJvuN127UoltQi9l3mLkriQ


I have gone 12's on street tires


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> Ok how? Can I assume ACN or some other .91 4th trans with a 3.67 final drive and reving to about 6800 or so to avoid the shift to 5th?
> 
> Also what's the weight of this car? And LSD?


I think Mark is using an old school Kraftswerk setup.


-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## LiBlackRabbit (Oct 8, 2003)

.therealvrt said:


> Curious what everyone runs for 1/4 times with their aba-ts!!!
> I went [email protected] with mine. 10psi. T3 w/td turbine cover/td manifold and dp. Stock oem exhaust.
> Fmic of course.
> I threw on a usrt intake at the end of the year and plan on a 276 wide cam (valvetrain too),arp headstuds, meth and about 3-4psi more than this year ( on stock comp ratio).


15 secs? Something is wrong. Most vws do that stock. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

LiBlackRabbit said:


> 15 secs? Something is wrong. Most vws do that *stock*.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Not ABA's in full trim.....


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## LiBlackRabbit (Oct 8, 2003)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Not ABA's in full trim.....


True.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

.therealvrt said:


> Wow. Very nice.i guess the lugnuts leap only comes out for single digit passes!!!
> I am hoping to make it into the 13s at some point. My days of trying to go fast are over.


Lol. I was told there was a mini leap, but it didn't get caught on camera.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> The in car video only shows 4 shifts to cross the line.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Correct, 4 gears. It has a CHE trans with AP spool. I shifted at 7800 rpm (yes it is making power there). The slicks grow about 1" on the top end, so run a 23" tire in your calcs and you'll see I have a good bit left in fourth gear.

Weight was 1820# on those passes.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> Correct, 4 gears. It has a CHE trans with AP spool. I shifted at 7800 rpm (yes it is making power there). The slicks grow about 1" on the top end, so run a 23" tire in your calcs and you'll see I have a good bit left in fourth gear.
> 
> Weight was 1820# on those passes.


1820lbs race weight, with you in the car right?


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> 1820lbs race weight, with you in the car right?


Correct. The goal for this build was light, simple and reliable with basic OEM and shelf parts.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Awesome last round of questions I swear. 

How much boost were you running on that pass, what camshaft? And please could you or Daskoupe please explain the loading the car in first on the hand brake? I read Daskoupe saying something about it before. It looks like your holding the handbrake up, and maybe slipping the clutch out a bit to get some load on the trans while revving the snot of it before launch?

But then what? Are you throwing away the clutch or slipping it out like a motorcycle launch?


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> Awesome last round of questions I swear.
> 
> How much boost were you running on that pass, what camshaft? And please could you or Daskoupe please explain the loading the car in first on the hand brake? I read Daskoupe saying something about it before. It looks like your holding the handbrake up, and maybe slipping the clutch out a bit to get some load on the trans while revving the snot of it before launch?
> 
> But then what? Are you throwing away the clutch or slipping it out like a motorcycle launch?


Lol, no problem.

28-29 psi-- would have been more but the 60-1 gets unhappy above that boost level, and is one of the things I have now changed on the car, along with the intercooler and head. A baby Autotech 270 was in the car in those runs-- the cam will be_ much_ bigger next time out.

Hand-brake is to pre-load the drivetrain. I engage the clutch until it is just starting to apply load, then I let it out quickly and smoothly at launch. Don't sidestep or slip the clutch on slicks. Just a quick, positive engagement.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

LiBlackRabbit said:


> 15 secs? Something is wrong. Most vws do that stock.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





.T.o.n.y. said:


> Not ABA's in full trim.....


When I Google'd the specs on the jetta I had years ago it said it ran a 17 second quarter mile where as the VR was like 15.2 in the quarter. lol

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Back when I thought my aba was "fast yo" my 96' GL Jetta with TT chip/intake/exhaust ran a HIGH 17 lol! That moment was my reality check. Now I have a Holset powered aba 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> Don't sidestep or slip the clutch on slicks. Just a quick, positive engagement.


I picked up a set of 22x8.0-15 ET Drags, I haven't got to use them yet, but planing on getting down the track as soon as it opens in spring. It will be my first time on a full slick, hoping to be able to get all the nitrous down in 2nd gear right after the shift. If that happens (because it does not on street tires) I'm hoping for decent pass.

Still trying to decide which trans to use. I need to change my current one ( I run 020) and it's either an ACN or a AUG because that's what I have for spares. The ACN will trap in 4th, and the AUG is shorter geared, but will definitely take a shift to 5th. However with running slicks, I'd rather gamble/explode the AUG since the ACN is better on the street. But I think that shift to 5th kill me....have no idea what I'm doing there yet (sorry just thinking out lout here)

2350lbs (2550lbs with me) full weight MK2, but I'll be stripping some more weight from it before then, however I think I'd be lucky to get it any lower than a 2500lb race weight.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

I run a ctn tdi trans so i am good for a little over 100 mph in 3rd!!


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Mark can't wait to see your car up and racing again, 

So has anyone seen a 9s aba car yet? That's my end goal for my car to break into that magical number, 

I'm shooting for 1800 race weight with my mk2 with me in it have done a lot of weight reduction in the car but am running a few heavy things as in 6speed trans, full cage, and a very beefy front cross member to anchor my yt? traction bars to 


But I will also be relearning the new set up so lot of test and tune and help from the lugtronics team hopefully get there, if itbdoesnt I'm determined and have many things in the works to go further with the engine


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> Mark can't wait to see your car up and racing again,
> 
> So has anyone seen a 9s aba car yet? That's my end goal for my car to break into that magical number,
> 
> ...


The brazilians have done some crazy **** with 8v cars. Not sure what engine exactly.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*8v power!*

Yes the Brazilian guys are running 10 second n\a damn fast.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

rabbitchaser said:


> So has anyone seen a 9s aba car yet? That's my end goal for my car to break into that magical number,


Not in North America--it definitely can be done in a "street style" fwd car though. 

The Brazilians have gone really quick with 8v stuff, both counter-flow and cross-flow-- mainly hot rod and pro-front style chassis with a percentage of nitromethane.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Anyone have any #44 injectors I can get? My car wont run for **** with my current set in there.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

I sent my injectors to marren fuel injection for a thorough cleaning. Turn around time was pretty quick and they send you the test results of before and after flow rates. Charge $25 an injector if I remember correctly


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I sent my injectors to marren fuel injection for a thorough cleaning. Turn around time was pretty quick and they send you the test results of before and after flow rates. Charge $25 an injector if I remember correctly


I cant understand why its not running for **** on the 440's. I checked em while cranking and there all pulsing. Not like one is stuck open. It will not rev at all. Like pegged rich. Put some stock injectors in and it runs ok. Wont Idle (super lean) assuming the tune is the reason. But it revs up and the afr is good. I am sorta at a loss. Guess I'll send em out and get em checked this week


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Does anybody run any plug colder than the trusty BPR7ES? Like maybe a BPR8ES?


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*sparkplugs*

Hi there Mr West! I ran bk8e-ix iridium on the pg block and it did idled better but came out all Black so i guess it was to cold for 15psi but looking to run same plugs on -7 temp range!! Great plug if you ask me!!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I just ordered a set of each the BR7ES and BR8ES (non projected tip versions of above, as I plan on running a 75hp jetting at the track next year)


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*spark*

Hi guys!! Just to mention the the rule about heat ranges goes like this!! One heat colder for every 10psi and gap should be the largest without fouling or skiping.but every car is different but for aba's bkr7e v power [email protected] 24-28 depending on ignition state of tune and ancilliaries related to them.So for up to ten psi 6-7 heat,10 to 20 psi 7heat,after 20psi 8heat range.This has been my experience so far and working great(this is just a rule of thumb).i'll try to get in Touch tonight Mr West!!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> I cant understand why its not running for **** on the 440's. I checked em while cranking and there all pulsing. Not like one is stuck open. It will not rev at all. Like pegged rich. Put some stock injectors in and it runs ok. Wont Idle (super lean) assuming the tune is the reason. But it revs up and the afr is good. I am sorta at a loss. Guess I'll send em out and get em checked this week


2 year old new maf from VW is dead :banghead: Going to get a few from the junkyard tomorrrow at lunch before plug down another 180 bucks.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I just bought an Oem one on eBay for $100 shipped 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> I just bought an Oem one on eBay for $100 shipped
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


well that fixed it. Just got a couple little issues and I'll be driving it home


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Anyone know what block injectors are on using vag-com? Want to see where I'm at with them at 19 psi. 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

where are you guys running your oil feeds from? I always did the cylinder head. Now with the new motor I am half tempt to try the oil filter housing


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> where are you guys running your oil feeds from? I always did the cylinder head. Now with the new motor I am half tempt to try the oil filter housing


My original plan was to use the side of the head, but then I switched at the last minute due to advice from others. My reasoning was, everybody could agree the OFH was perfect, but some thought the side of head could possibly be too low of pressure at idle and low rpm, so why take the chance?? Luckily the same fitting fits both spots.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> where are you guys running your oil feeds from? I always did the cylinder head. Now with the new motor I am half tempt to try the oil filter housing


filter housing is the accepted standard and also factory location on the 1.8t. :beer:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Oil filter housing, no doubt. Besides, who wants to pay for a turbo AND whatever caused your low oil pressure issue if something does go wrong?

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*oil feed*

Same here mate! Ifh,7 or 8 mm allen for the Plug and walla perfect spot no failures on my turbos related to oil seals or starvation,just warm it up before stomping on it so the oil pressure lowers as it heats up!! On a side note! Maybe hitting the dyno on thursday!! Will see what the megasquirt is capable of.later mates! Roderick.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Ok so she's home and feeling good. New motor is better across the board. Oil pressure is better warmed up, smoother, quiet, and smells like fresh paint lol. The thing wants me to cane it bad. I gave it alittle and I have never seen the boost gauge move so fast. I have to say that my maf was the whole issue. Compression wasn't. That would explain the oil use and smoke. The old motor was pretty tired compared to this one. 

I'll get some engine bay pics. It looks much different now. I did go off the oil filter housing too!










I got to clean this thing up


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*mk2 coupe pic*

 my never ending proyect !


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Anyone know what block injectors are on using vag-com? Want to see where I'm at with them at 19 psi.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


:wave:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> :wave:


iirc block 3.

Just look for a ms reading


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> iirc block 3.
> 
> Just look for a ms reading


Thanks Quintin! Where did you run out of injector when you had your Holset? You were on 440's right? Im running the HY35w so similar to the HX.....


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Q is in here acting all ABA. He was mk4 2.0!!!


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Watch your wide band also ,and are you at 4bar fpr


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

3bar but I have 4 bar FPR's I can swap in. Just curious where people are running out of injector. 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*inyector*

Dont know about c2 software but in my case i run 85% duty cycle on precision 440cc hi impedance(which by the way sucked!) on 22psi and spiking to 91-92% so i switched to denso rx7 turbo hi impedance 550cc but i have not been able to check duty cycle!. I blew the last engine due to a lean condition so this time around whent with 550cc.hope it helps.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Thanks man, more wondering chip tuned guys so I can get an idea of where I'm at. 


Sent from my iPhone using fat fingers.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*paging brother Das!*

Das have you've been able to dyno again with the new engine?.I havent been able due to a spark misfire problem,so new sparkplugs msd coil and wires!! Will see but for now is clausured proyect till january!! Happy holidays mates!! Christmas is around the corner.May God bless you all!!


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Does anyone elses Tial do this? Took me forever to get it sealed.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I had mine apart many times diagnosing leaks but never put anything on it like that to leak check it. That's a newer generation unit than I had though.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

http://youtu.be/MQSALsR5PUo?list=UUJvuN127UoltQi9l3mLkriQ


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Daskoupe said:


> http://youtu.be/MQSALsR5PUo?list=UUJvuN127UoltQi9l3mLkriQ


FTFU


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

:thumbup::laugh:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Stock cam Das?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

270 autotech


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Daskoupe said:


> 270 autotech


man up and get the WL TT276!


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> man up and get the WL TT276!


Im running the 270 right now as well, wanting to move up to the TT276 but worried about spool... Q im running a Holset HY35w how will it affect me if I run that cam? Im near the limit of my C2 software/injectors will this push me over it causing me fueling issues?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

HY35 is like a HX30 turbine, with a HX35 compressor?

Are the 30/35 series T3 flanged? What would be the Turbine specs of these? Like Garretts are usually .48 or .63, what are the holsets specs? I will eventually want a bigger turbo, I hear good things but I know very little about holset, (other then you steal them off Dodge trucks.  )


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

more bay shots? looks great
22psi, wow


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Im running the 270 right now as well, wanting to move up to the TT276 but worried about spool... Q im running a Holset HY35w how will it affect me if I run that cam? Im near the limit of my C2 software/injectors will this push me over it causing me fueling issues?


didnt affect spool and i was running the HX35 with the oe .89a/r divided t3 housing. it was just so MUUUUCH stronger pulling past 6500..night and day. If you are at the limit of fueling...which you are once you get around 20psi with that turbo then sort that out first.


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

What kind of recirc-valves are you guys using for those who do?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

VW Schmidt said:


> What kind of recirc-valves are you guys using for those who do?


i use two factory ones from a 225hp tt.


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## redzone98 (Jun 10, 2004)

What Gear set in that Trans are you running ??


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

ccm


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Super excited right now , receaved new from a certain person that my ligtronics Ecu and harness should be ready at the end of January , I came wait to have it and be running lugtronics, lots of little things to finish up in the next month to have it ready foevthe dyno


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Drunk much? Lol Good deal. More need to be onboard with standalone.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

not drunk i just suffer from a complex know as posting from my phone, everyone have a good christmas hope it bring lots of boost parts for you aba


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Daskoupe said:


> i use two factory ones from a 225hp tt.


Two to eliminate surge im guessing?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

VW Schmidt said:


> Two to eliminate surge im guessing?


yup


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Autotech 270* here too. I am _still_  collecting parts for my build. I'm shooting for 250+whp. 

AEG intake mani
ARP Headstuds
Headspacer
Ported OBDI Head
Autotech dual valve springs 
AT270*
Garrett .42/.48 (T3?)
3" DP
2.5" Exhaust
Tial 38mm wastegate/open dump 
20psi 
C2 Stg2 
42# Injectors 
Walbro 

Think I'll hit my goals with my AT270*? Or should I consider saving up and buying the wlc 276*?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

You will make it on that can, I made 260 at 20psi on a g60 cam but the wide loan 276 is a awesome cam car pulls for days 


Some updates in my build fuel system is all done and mocked up intercooler piping tonight just have to get it welded


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

You will make it on that can, I made 260 at 20psi on a g60 cam but the wide loan 276 is a awesome cam car pulls for days 


Some updates in my build fuel system is all done and mocked up intercooler piping tonight just have to get it welded


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Autotech 270* here too. I am _still_  collecting parts for my build. I'm shooting for 250+whp.
> 
> AEG intake mani
> ARP Headstuds
> ...


I made over 400 at the wheels with an Autotech 270, so I wouldn't worry too much about making 250 with one. You have it, so run it. Your turbine housing is tiny, so it is probably just as well to keep the cam conservative. What size is your turbine wheel?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I made 263whp/298wtq on an overheating engine with a similar setup at 17psi with that cam (tt266 but basically the same). Also made 258whp at 15psi on the auto trans back in the day with that cam. You're definitely fine.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

lets talk high rpm high boost car pops. Sounds like 1-2 misfires but afr is dead on at 12.00? Tank is sorta low so I'll fill up with Shell and re test.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

That shouldn't have anything to do with it unless it's under an 1/8 tank. I'm thinking spark plug choice, spark plug gap, or coil just isn't up to the task.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I was going to do new plugs anyway. Coil might not be a bad idea either


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*gap*

I know you know but some times one forgets! 22-24 sparkplug gap!! I run bkr7-eix


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

*Sigh* I was still in G60 mindset and I ordered a bunch of sparkplugs in the bigger hex....whoops. 

But let's talk coils for a minute. I was having to close my gap a lot when spraying nitrous, at my OEM G60 gap it wouldn't even light. Just made a spitting "thap thap thap thap" sound and wouldn't accelerate. Closed the gap down, problem solved.

A month later switched the OEM MK2 coil out for a MSD Blaster 2, and was able to open the gap back up slightly.. so either the OEM coil was tired or the blaster is more powerful (45,000v, I have no idea what an OEM coil is rated for)


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

If you read the MSD blaster label, it's only that rated voltage when powered through an MSD ignition setup.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

strange, it felt like all of 45,000 volts when I unplugged the coil wire that one day.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks so much for the responses everyone. I'll focus my efforts elsewhere and let the cam be. :thumbup:

Sorry I'm still a turbo n00b. How would I go about measuring my turbine wheel?


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Sorry I'm still a turbo n00b. How would I go about measuring my turbine wheel?


You have to unbolt your turbine housing and measure the major and minor diameters of the turbine wheel with a pair of vernier calipers.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Right on thanks man :thumbup:

I always want to upgrade before the car is even built. I want to ditch the cam and go wlc 276*, ditch the tiny Garrett and go gt2876r, ditch the c2 stage 2 and go standalone. If I keep doing that it will never get on the road. My focus is just to get it going. Start small and upgrade later. That's why I'm trying not to worry about the AEG mani and small exhaust at the moment. It will also give me time to build an o2a. 

...I don't know how well my stock mileage open diff 020 is gonna hold up on 20psi lol


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> Right on thanks man :thumbup:
> 
> I always want to upgrade before the car is even built. I want to ditch the cam and go wlc 276*, ditch the tiny Garrett and go gt2876r, ditch the c2 stage 2 and go standalone. If I keep doing that it will never get on the road. My focus is just to get it going. Start small and upgrade later. That's why I'm trying not to worry about the AEG mani and small exhaust at the moment. It will also give me time to build an o2a.
> 
> ...I don't know how well my stock mileage open diff 020 is gonna hold up on 20psi lol


Totally understand.

I didn't build quite the engine I wanted to for budget reasons, but I'm pretty happy with it overall. Laid some good ground work with the head porting, TT HD springs, and Schrick 272. Turbo is kinda small, .42/.48 T3, but I did that on purpose since I'm and still running on modified Digi 1. Ultimately I want standalone, and to go with a bigger turbo like the requisite 50trim T3/T4, .63 ar turbine or a Holset of some kind.

Also already murdered an 020 this summer 
But it had previously lived a hard life behind the G60 for several years.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Very similar setup! And thought process haha :beer: how did you like the .42/.48? Same turbo I have


----------



## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Ok. I am undecided as to what cam to run on my aba turbo. 
Its a small turbo about to be running 16-18psi thanks to a hg spacer. 
I am running an obd1 head with oem dual valve springs. I also just picked up a usrt sri. 
The 276 wide lobe cam is stuck in my brain. Will it work with my head setup and do you think it will be too much for a smaller turbo. I have also consider the 268/260 but the seems a little low on the exhaust side. 
Thanks


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

What turbo are you running Paul?


----------



## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> What turbo are you running Paul?


Thats a trick question. Its apperently a garrett t3 replacement for a 2.2 chrysler engine but the hotside housing is a mk2 td. Bolted to a td manifold, so its small. Cant find any ar numbers on it anywhere.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

.therealvrt said:


> Thats a trick question. Its apperently a garrett t3 replacement for a 2.2 chrysler engine but the hotside housing is a mk2 td. Bolted to a td manifold, so its small. Cant find any ar numbers on it anywhere.


VW TD's used a VW specific trapezoidal hole instead of the standard rectangle of normal T3's. The 1.6TD came with either a KKK turbo or a Garrett, and it was a T3. But it was a very small turbine housing. Like .36 A/R

So you could hybrid it with any other Garrett T3 compressor side, easily enough. I think a OEM 2.2 Turbo is a .42 50trim (or maybe a 60 trim), and the Super 60 was the upgrade turbo Mopar sold.


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

.therealvrt said:


> Thats a trick question. Its apperently a garrett t3 replacement for a 2.2 chrysler engine but the hotside housing is a mk2 td. Bolted to a td manifold, so its small. Cant find any ar numbers on it anywhere.



Yeah, it is gonna be a tiny turbine housing and wheel. I would go with the Autotech 270 before a G60-style split grind though. I think even with your tiny turbo the lsa is wide enough and the cam small enough the 270 should work. Just my guess though, so don't yell at me if it doesn't work, lol.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> VW TD's used a VW specific trapezoidal hole instead of the standard rectangle of normal T3's. The 1.6TD came with either a KKK turbo or a Garrett, and it was a T3. But it was a very small turbine housing. Like .36 A/R
> 
> So you could hybrid it with any other Garrett T3 compressor side, easily enough. I think a OEM 2.2 Turbo is a .42 50trim (or maybe a 60 trim), and the Super 60 was the upgrade turbo Mopar sold.


Thanks. It's not the compressor side that is small (relatively speaking), it's the td turbine cover. I wish there was a larger turbine cover that bolts to the td manifold. If i was to tweak anything i'd just get a new manifold and a 28 or 28rs type turbo.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Mark Morris said:


> Yeah, it is gonna be a tiny turbine housing and wheel. I would go with the Autotech 270 before a G60-style split grind though. I think even with your tiny turbo the lsa is wide enough and the cam small enough the 270 should work. Just my guess though, so don't yell at me if it doesn't work, lol.


Aahhh. Too bad i had a tt 266 ( specs out pretty close to the at270) but sold it when i was out of work!


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Anyone here know of a good make and model of car I could pull an internally gated t3 turbo from at the junkyard? Saab? Volvo?


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VW Schmidt said:


> Anyone here know of a good make and model of car I could pull an internally gated t3 turbo from at the junkyard? Saab? Volvo?


Dodge 2.2, Merkur XR4ti, Ford Cougar/Thunderbird 2.3 Turbo. 

GM-8 might be an option, which is from a GM 6.5 Turbo Diesel, is a internally gated, which I believe is T3 CHRA based, but made by BW. It's a funny size, I've heard close to a GT30, but just oil cooled/journal bearing.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> Dodge 2.2, Merkur XR4ti, Ford Cougar/Thunderbird 2.3 Turbo.
> 
> GM-8 might be an option, which is from a GM 6.5 Turbo Diesel, is a internally gated, which I believe is T3 CHRA based, but made by BW. It's a funny size, I've heard close to a GT30, but just oil cooled/journal bearing.


I ran a GM-8 for 3 months(saving money for new turbo at the time) and it worked great for me!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

or an hx35 of a 92-98 dodge ram cummins


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Thanks guys a have a semi-complete kit in the garage that came with a used godspeed turbo but honestly I'd rather just rebuild a brand name OEM turbo from a junkyard that would probably last longer than the GSP and the GSP is probably a bit bigger than I need really. Well its -2 here so I can't do much but research. :facepalm:


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> or an hx35 of a 92-98 dodge ram cummins


That would make too much damn power for my stock engine. Maybe one day i'll go down that route but I'd do a FULL rebuild with all ARP hardware and aftermarket rods/pistons. All im working with now is a fresh OEM reseal and rebuilt head lol. Once I can go outside without dying I'm doing a comp test and that will help me figure out what size turbo to go with.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VW Schmidt said:


> Thanks guys a have a semi-complete kit in the garage that came with a used godspeed turbo but honestly I'd rather just rebuild a brand name OEM turbo from a junkyard that would probably last longer than the GSP and the GSP is probably a bit bigger than I need really. Well its -2 here so I can't do much but research. :facepalm:



That doesn't make any sense. If you already have the GSP turbo, just use it. Run a 0.060" oil feed restrictor on it and go to town, what is there to lose?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Not only that but people saying it would make too much power need to think about it from an airflow perspective. Turn the boost down and you're fine, with room to spare for on down the road.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


> Not only that but people saying it would make too much power need to think about it from an airflow perspective. Turn the boost down and you're fine, with room to spare for on down the road.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


Exactly you're not gonna blow the motor at anything less than 15psi on the hx35 on the stock block.


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Yeah but I don't know if I want such a large turbo I'd prefer a smaller quicker spooling turbo if that makes sense. And I don't trust the GSP I took it apart and some of the rubber seals are questionable at best. Don't wanna fab a set-up to that thing and have it blowing 5 quarts of oil down the dp.


----------



## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

VW Schmidt said:


> Yeah but I don't know if I want such a large turbo I'd prefer a smaller quicker spooling turbo if that makes sense. And I don't trust the GSP I took it apart and some of the rubber seals are questionable at best. Don't wanna fab a set-up to that thing and have it blowing 5 quarts of oil down the dp.


What I did to a few of those GSP turbos is buy them, and do an instant rebuild with the seals with a Garret kit for $75 bucks. Never had an issue with them running 11 psi or lower. Once that goes up, then they get really hairy.


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I ran a gsp turbobforb2 years at 24psi when I got bit I had it balanced by a turbo specialist and it did great never had a problem just wanted to go bigger and jumped at a hx40


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VW Schmidt said:


> Yeah but I don't know if I want such a large turbo I'd prefer a smaller quicker spooling turbo if that makes sense. And I don't trust the GSP I took it apart and some of the rubber seals are questionable at best. Don't wanna fab a set-up to that thing and have it blowing 5 quarts of oil down the dp.


There shouldn't be any rubber seals inside a turbo. But anyways like some others said, they hold together surprisingly well. You run a oil restrictor (0.060" or 1.5mm), and make your drain as straight and down to the pan as possible, and they won't poo oil out your exhaust. :thumbup: 

Biggest beef seems to be, they don't spool as fast as the real deals. Possibly they have a heavier rotating assembly? I can't explain that one, or even verify if it's true having never run the exact same spec turbo from Garrett or PTE vs a GSP or EMUSA. That's just what I've read several times.


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Wow I was quick to discredit a GSP just being an ebay turbo and used at that. And no rubber seals? Ill have to post some pics to show you guys the internals and some of the seals but I swear there was a rubber ring seal that looked shot and I just figured that the turbo smoked but I don't know much about turbo rebuilds etc and probably already had my mind made up that it was shot since its Ebay. I also have the option of getting an sti turbo but it has the three bolt flange? And also a turbo that came off an rx7 but its like 70 mm.... hahaha that's for Quintin


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VW Schmidt said:


> Wow I was quick to discredit a GSP just being an ebay turbo and used at that. And no rubber seals? Ill have to post some pics to show you guys the internals and some of the seals but I swear there was a rubber ring seal that looked shot and I just figured that the turbo smoked but I don't know much about turbo rebuilds etc and probably already had my mind made up that it was shot since its Ebay. I also have the option of getting an sti turbo but it has the three bolt flange? And also a turbo that came off an rx7 but its like 70 mm.... hahaha that's for Quintin


i used td04, B16G, and FP Red 3bolt subie turbos before on my 8v, they work pretty good. If you dont want the 70mm....i'll take it. Srsly.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VW Schmidt said:


> Wow I was quick to discredit a GSP just being an ebay turbo and used at that. And no rubber seals? Ill have to post some pics to show you guys the internals and some of the seals but I swear there was a rubber ring seal that looked shot and I just figured that the turbo smoked but I don't know much about turbo rebuilds etc and probably already had my mind made up that it was shot since its Ebay. I also have the option of getting an sti turbo but it has the three bolt flange? And also a turbo that came off an rx7 but its like 70 mm.... hahaha that's for Quintin



Oh maybe you're talking about the compressors O-ring seals? My brain was on the oil into the exhaust thing... woops.

Yeah oil shouldn't get past those they are pretty basic design, it's that turbine seal that oil gets by. It's looks like a mini piston ring (or 2 together) on the shaft.


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

I am ready to buy a FMIC from either treadstone OR Mishimoto, what length and thickness units are you guys using? 

I can't find much in 2" inlet and outlet, even though I wont be running a lot of boost, will 2.5" hurt me?

Any other brands to look at besides Spearco ($$)?

Edited: changed "of" to "or"


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## roknroko16v (Jan 17, 2006)

Thought I'd give you all a heads up, I'm parting out my car and moving on to something new after 5 years. Will be posting up in for sale section shortly, but clutch, suspension and turbo setup will be for sale among other things


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

syncrogti said:


> I am ready to buy a FMIC from either treadstone of Mishimoto, what length and thickness units are you guys using?
> 
> I can't find much in 2" inlet and outlet, even though I wont be running a lot of boost, will 2.5" hurt me?
> 
> Any other brands to look at besides Spearco ($$)?


Just get the treadstone unit....2.5" inlets and outlets are completely fine, even for a mild setup.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

syncrogti said:


> I am ready to buy a FMIC from either treadstone OR Mishimoto, what length and thickness units are you guys using?
> 
> I can't find much in 2" inlet and outlet, even though I wont be running a lot of boost, will 2.5" hurt me?
> 
> ...



Core Size 20.50"x2.25"x7", Over length 27.50", 2.5" inlet/outlet. 

Just go 2.5" inlet/outlet, it's WAAAAY easier to buy them in that size. You'll have much more choices for core sizes, and inlet/outlet location, etc. Usually cheaper then odd ball 2.25" or 2.0" also. I have an older small bumper MK2, so to hide the intercooler it took a really specific size and placement.


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## twinscrewcaddy (Mar 27, 2008)

looks good.


all,
i've been searching forever and can't find a good pick or detail of where to tap the ISV hose back into on my turbo aba build. i keep getting mixed up info. i've seen people going thru the motions of figuring this out... how/where the hell do i route the hose to??

- the boosted side (between TB and IC)?
- the unboosted side (between MAF and turbo)?

note: this is on a stock obd1 aba intake mani setup.
thanx much if you can help!
sorry if this sounds like a simple, dumb question!
:beer:


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## twinscrewcaddy (Mar 27, 2008)

nevermind. I'm just being stupid. It must go back to the boost side...


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Just delete that **** lol.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Yup, delete it.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

*isv hookup*

So I have a USRT longrunner intake on my obd1 aba turbo and I hooked the ISV up to the intake pipe after the MAF, pre-turbo. The outlet is plumbed into a bung on the bottom of the intake manifold... and it runs/idles great, doesn't die when putting the clutch in fast at a light or anything like that.. so why would you think it needs to be on the compressed side of the turbo? At idle you aren't going to be making boost so there is no real pressure difference between the intake side and the compressed side, shouldn't it not matter where you suck air from as long as its after the MAF...

For those saying delete it, what do you do about the code that you get when its unplugged? Do you leave the pump plugged in and just loop the inlet/outlet or run a resistor across the plug? What do you do about idling, do you put a set screw or some type of throttle stop to keep the throttle plate open a slight amount? I tried running the car with the ISV hooked up when I first built it, and it would not idle, also had a code unless the pump was plugged in...

Thanks
Jon


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Personally, I don't have much info to add to the convo at this point because I've only owned 1 obd1 car, and it was stock. The rest were all obd2. Also, I register mine with them being garaged in a county that doesn't require emissions, so I don't have to worry regardless.

In your particular case, I'd suggest going the resistor route so it's more of a solid solution. 

Sorry I couldn't be of more help on that one.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Obd 1


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

jcveedub said:


> So I have a USRT longrunner intake on my obd1 aba turbo and I hooked the ISV up to the intake pipe after the MAF, pre-turbo. The outlet is plumbed into a bung on the bottom of the intake manifold... and it runs/idles great, doesn't die when putting the clutch in fast at a light or anything like that.. so why would you think it needs to be on the compressed side of the turbo? At idle you aren't going to be making boost so there is no real pressure difference between the intake side and the compressed side, shouldn't it not matter where you suck air from as long as its after the MAF...
> 
> For those saying delete it, what do you do about the code that you get when its unplugged? Do you leave the pump plugged in and just loop the inlet/outlet or run a resistor across the plug? What do you do about idling, do you put a set screw or some type of throttle stop to keep the throttle plate open a slight amount? I tried running the car with the ISV hooked up when I first built it, and it would not idle, also had a code unless the pump was plugged in...
> 
> ...


At idle it makes no difference where it is plumbed from. But under boost, if you have it plumbed in pre-turbo they tend to bleed out some pressure. That's why you want to plumb it from a charge pipe.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Also, my motor is in a mk1 so I don't need inspection lol. QQ plates ftw


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Pretty quiet in here. 
Got my ABA-t running in it's new mk2 shell this past week. The car was previously diesel (modded 1.9TD in it's previous life) so I had to bring over the whole fuel system and obviously wiring. Not super hard but definitely enough of a project to give me a good sense of accomplishment. Can't wait to get some loose ends tied up and get it ready to go in the spring. 









Set up is pretty basic. 
-UM stage 1
-old audi FMIC with some metal end tanks welded on
-256/262* cam 
-TT cam gear
-Volvo TD04hl-15g turbo internal wastegate and recirculation valve
-2.25 downpipe to 2.5 exhaust
-Exhaust tubing as IC piping

Basically my set up is well under the 1000$ mark including the motor and transmission (in fact the whole parts car). 

Anyone else making any winter progress?


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Do you have any pics of that 15g just for reference?


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

VW Schmidt said:


> Do you have any pics of that 15g just for reference?


Yup. 
When I got it








With new tabs welded to hold the waste gate








What I had to do to make the volvo flange work on my manifold because I didn't want to smash the firewall enough to run an adapter (dirty stick weld used to build up the flange)









And one more in it's new home. 









Once you get over the fact the exhaust flange on the turbo is weird, and the turbo mounting flange itself isn't a standard T3 flange it's really a pretty nice unit. The recirculation valve built into the cold side of the turbo seems to work well, and cleans up the bay by not having to have a diverter valve or blow off valve.


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

My simple setup














my wifes golf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Thanks for the reference pics slow.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

InlinePerformance said:


>


Where is the throttle body here? On the bottom?


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Yep 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Literally Tucked everything! Inline is helping me convert my car to obd2. He's the aba King lol


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

InlinePerformance said:


> My simple setup
> 
> 
> 
> ...


beautiful.


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## VW_MK3_270 (Feb 2, 2012)

opcorn:


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Hit 225HP and 255TQ @ 14.7 PSI car had wheel spin on the dyno... And ran out of fuel up top. Time to install the 044 pump.


































































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

What pump are you running now


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Stock / whatever the PO put back there. I have the 044 just haven't installed it 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Is It a Cis pump, if so it's a 040 and should be fine to 300 hp I ran mine at 24 psi on a t3t4 and was right at 12to1 at full boost with a 4 bar fpr and 42# injectors 


What size injectors are you on?


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

440's


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Might be time for a 4 bar fpr if your out of fuel, but the pump will help to


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Those numbers seem low for that turbo and intake manifold carrollton. Are you on the stock cam? What compression ratio? Mine did 258whp at 15psi almost a decade ago on the 01m auto trans (for reference). And running out of fuel that low seems odd as well. Definitely a gorgeous setup though....

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*final drive*

Hi folks!! Im wondering what final drive should i put on my turbo setup! Currently running 02A 3.68 but i have a ccm tranny out of a vr6 jetta.which would be better 3.38 or stick with 3.68?any advice would be Great!! Dascoupe what is your current setup? If i may ask?.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rodperformance said:


> Hi folks!! Im wondering what final drive should i put on my turbo setup! Currently running 02A 3.68 but i have a ccm tranny out of a vr6 jetta.which would be better 3.38 or stick with 3.68?any advice would be Great!! Dascoupe what is your current setup? If i may ask?.


I have CCM as well


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*thanks*

3.38 final drive? Because im thinking to swap every thing from ccm to corrado 02a


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

PBWB said:


> Those numbers seem low for that turbo and intake manifold carrollton. Are you on the stock cam? What compression ratio? Mine did 258whp at 15psi almost a decade ago on the 01m auto trans (for reference). And running out of fuel that low seems odd as well. Definitely a gorgeous setup though....
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


I'm running the 276 turbo cam and HD valve springs. Something wasn't right... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

For a drag setup, there's no need for a 3.38....no ABAs on here make over 500whp to make it justifiable. Now for a street setup that could possibly be another story. But either way you slice it going with a taller R&P is only going to help traction issues in the 2-4th gear range minimally.

Normally the end user will map out their gears and select the combination best suited to end the quarter mile at the top of either 3rd or 4th gear. 95% of people do well on a 22-23" slick and either 3.94 or 3.64-3.68 R&P (if you have the power). Again, that's for drag calculating.

My .02

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*ccm or ata*

Thanks pwb8! I wanted to keep my 3.68fd but to make it easier so i dont have to remove the gears out and fit them to the ccm shaft,plus lots of work and very little time to wrench on the car make it apealing!! Parents will know what i mean!! But at the same time didnt want to loose the oportunity to end up with a better fd!!.Side note car is a daily weekend warrior type of thing!! Drag,circuit and daily!! Im realy happy with any advice from more knowledgable people


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Das*

Dascoupe are you on 3.38? Also or just the gears?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Vr6 final drive


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> Vr6 final drive


This is the Vr6 final drive. Vr6 1-4 gears and tdi fifth

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCeDBIs_jos&list=UUJvuN127UoltQi9l3mLkriQ


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*great vid*

Thanks Das one video speaks a million words!!


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## sykye (Feb 26, 2012)

hallo is there anybody who could help me here with my mk3 variant agg/aba mixblock turbo please? i am from slovakia and here in europe is smaller problem with turbo parts for ABA engine and big problem with skills for "turbo loading" and helping with ABA turbo project... so seriously what i have now:
- AGG block and ABA head. everything repased with new parts. gaskets, bearings, screws a.s.o.
- T3/T4 Turbo. a/r66
- two head gaskets victor reinz,
- only 50mm exhaust system (sorry for metric rate) without catalyst
- 020 transmission (i am prepairing for ABF trans)
- ECU with custom map (pait 600€) and my car smokes like TDI x 2 , and it has problems with no-load speed.. so ECU is horrible
- 285cc /3,5bar injectors... (still have 301cc/3bar at home)
- MAF sensor from audi s3
- iridium spark plugs
- oil cooler, intercooler a.s.o. 
- oil catch tank - seriously i dont know if it has sence so now is disconnected

can you tell me, where or how can i get fully programmable ECU with MAP sensor? name of ECU? 
thank you for help. really.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

sykye said:


> hallo is there anybody who could help me here with my mk3 variant agg/aba mixblock turbo please? i am from slovakia and here in europe is smaller problem with turbo parts for ABA engine and big problem with skills for "turbo loading" and helping with ABA turbo project... so seriously what i have now:
> - AGG block and ABA head. everything repased with new parts. gaskets, bearings, screws a.s.o.
> - T3/T4 Turbo. a/r66
> - two head gaskets victor reinz,
> ...



Megasquirt. https://www.diyautotune.com/ 

Full stand alone ECU. Its a bit of a learning curve, but awesome. I recommend Megaquirt 2 or 3.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Do you need a crank trigger for MS2? Can you use the hall sensor in the distrubitor if you just want to batch fire?

Also is there any place people share maps for ABA turbo, just to get a base startup map, or something to work off of?


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

G60 Carat said:


> Do you need a crank trigger for MS2? Can you use the hall sensor in the distrubitor if you just want to batch fire?
> 
> Also is there any place people share maps for ABA turbo, just to get a base startup map, or something to work off of?


You can use a crank trigger with MS2 3.0. Previous boards require a pull up circuit for signal conversion. A hall sensor would work to. You'd need to convert the distributor to a 4 window. I used MS3x on my ABA and used the crank trigger and used the stock 1 window dizzy as a cam position sensor for sequential spark/fuel.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Mr West!!*

You can fit a techtonics distibutor adapter so you can use the digifant unit and since it has four Windows youre set to go!! Tsel/opto in mod on the board and good to go.i would recomend kp tunned(Paul) or jeff linfert(prof315).shot me a call if you want!!


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

*pstons*

who makes some drop in pistons at reasonable price? don't know what compression.wanted 9:1 with 8v head but later on, i have an AEB head i wanted to use but 9:1+ AEB = super low compression. what you guys think? was thinking forged 10:1 with double stack gaskets or spacer for 8v. I also have IE rods.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

jimivr6 said:


> who makes some drop in pistons at reasonable price? don't know what compression.wanted 9:1 with 8v head but later on, i have an AEB head i wanted to use but 9:1+ AEB = super low compression. what you guys think? was thinking forged 10:1 with double stack gaskets or spacer for 8v. I also have IE rods.


20/20 build ehh? I've heard mixed reviews on those. I would consider just using a whole 1.8t engine, put some good rods in it and go nuts. 

But umm say pistons listed as 11.5 - 12:1 ABA pistons, would be about 9 - 9.25:1 with a AEG head sitting on top. No idea what your up against for needed valve recesses though, so you need to research that.


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Do you guys recommend stacking gaskets or going with a spacer? One more reliable than the other?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

VW Schmidt said:


> Do you guys recommend stacking gaskets or going with a spacer? One more reliable than the other?


been stacked on 20+psi for years. I daily mine as well!


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*head gasket stack*

In my case two set of pistons due to lean condition and even reused the head gaskets(not recomended)still no leakage!! Cooper spray and boost on!!


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> Do you need a crank trigger for MS2? Can you use the hall sensor in the distrubitor if you just want to batch fire?
> 
> Also is there any place people share maps for ABA turbo, just to get a base startup map, or something to work off of?


If you have an ABA bottom end you are a fool not to use the crank trigger. It still only gives you enough info to batch fire but at 30X the resolution! And since v3.0 and v3.57 main boards have VR conditioning circuits on them....


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Daskoupe said:


> been stacked on 20+psi for years. I daily mine as well!


And what is the process of stacking these gaskets? Just stack and go, or copper spray (what product? where can I get it) etc. Im going to be asking a lot of questions on here as its starting to warm-up, im getting ready to do my first build it shall be a learning process so sorry if I ask things you people should know I just wanna plan/make sure I do everything right and minimize reliability issues. I plan to daily the car!


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Prof315 said:


> If you have an ABA bottom end you are a fool not to use the crank trigger. It still only gives you enough info to batch fire but at 30X the resolution! And since v3.0 and v3.57 main boards have VR conditioning circuits on them....


Currently using a 1.8 bottom end, which is what prompted my initial concern with needing a crank sensor or using the dizzy hall sensor.. 

But in saying that, anything could happen in the future. I would put approximately 0% faith in this being the last bottom end put into this car. I mean you always hope and try, but I've fractured too many ring lands to expect them to hold up long term. If I end up buying forged slugs, it would be for an ABA bottom end, not 1.8. Why not take the extra displacement?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

VW Schmidt said:


> And what is the process of stacking these gaskets? Just stack and go, or copper spray (what product? where can I get it) etc. Im going to be asking a lot of questions on here as its starting to warm-up, im getting ready to do my first build it shall be a learning process so sorry if I ask things you people should know I just wanna plan/make sure I do everything right and minimize reliability issues. I plan to daily the car!


I use permatex copper spray. spray em up. Use Apr head studs


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> I use permatex copper spray. spray em up. Use Apr head studs


That's what I did, however, I only sealed copper spray between the block and the head, never in between.
Is that the best method? Who the F knows, its just want I did for years :laugh:


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I use permatex copper spray. spray em up. Use Apr head studs


I love the copper spray, but never used anything but new OEM VW head bolts. Has anybody broke OEM head bolts? or it just the re-useablity of the ARP ones that makes them worth it?


----------



## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> I love the copper spray, but never used anything but new OEM VW head bolts. Has anybody broke OEM head bolts? or it just the re-useablity of the ARP ones that makes them worth it?


ARP's are stronger, so it takes more force to lift the head off, leading to fewer HG failures and more boost before failure.


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

I did a full rebuild a couple years ago and had the head re-sealed etc etc etc. Just interested in this as far as anyone who ran stock compression how reliable is that for boost applications? I figure i'll just ARp head stud and stack the gaskets to lower compression and raise boost but has anyone out there just ran like 14 psi through a stock re-sealed block with any reliability or is it Completely not worth it


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

VW Schmidt said:


> I did a full rebuild a couple years ago and had the head re-sealed etc etc etc. Just interested in this as far as anyone who ran stock compression how reliable is that for boost applications? I figure i'll just ARp head stud and stack the gaskets to lower compression and raise boost but has anyone out there just ran like 14 psi through a stock re-sealed block with any reliability or is it Completely not worth it


I ran 12 psi with no problems!


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

It really all depends on what your timing looks like but for chipped software up to 12 is ok.....and that's if the head hasn't beer resurfaced more than a couple times.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Okay, I don't know jack about adjusting timing and stuff.


----------



## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

VW Schmidt said:


> I did a full rebuild a couple years ago and had the head re-sealed etc etc etc. Just interested in this as far as anyone who ran stock compression how reliable is that for boost applications? I figure i'll just ARp head stud and stack the gaskets to lower compression and raise boost but has anyone out there just ran like 14 psi through a stock re-sealed block with any reliability or is it Completely not worth it


You will need head studs and MK4 head gasket, but I have run over 20lbs on pump gas and over 30 on E85. You cannot do this with one of the canned chip tunes though.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> You will need head studs and MK4 head gasket, but I have run over 20lbs on pump gas and over 30 on E85. You cannot do this with one of the canned chip tunes though.


x2... I've ran ~22psi on stock compression JE pistons. 25psi with meth injection.

Its more about the tune than 'what's capable"

ps... I've also blown stock pistons at 14psi stock compression too.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

GTijoejoe said:


> x2... I've ran ~22psi on stock compression JE pistons. 25psi with meth injection.
> 
> Its more about the tune than 'what's capable"
> 
> ps... I've also blown stock pistons at 14psi stock compression too.


you're alive!!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

GTijoejoe said:


> x2... I've ran ~22psi on stock compression JE pistons. 25psi with meth injection.
> 
> Its more about the tune than 'what's capable"
> 
> ps... I've also blown stock pistons at 14psi stock compression too.



I wrecked 2 bottom ends in my life, these are stock cast piston bottom ends. One was from not enough fuel pressure (Literally the wrong FPR) and a big dirty highway pull (melted carnage, back in the days of expensive widebands.) and the other was a couple years back, with a big nitrous backfire, that busted the ringlands. But all that summer prior to that backfire a I ran it at 16psi and a 75hp nitrous jetting on a stock cast pistons. Even then the backfire was solely my fault, I missed a shift and was spraying between gears. :banghead:

I think as long you aren't leaning it out, and not be too aggressive with the timing, the strength of an OEM bottom end is actually pretty decent.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> you're alive!!


:laugh:

I still lurk around


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

So much to learn and so much to know but I think stacked mk4 gaskets and arp studs is the way to go with me to compensate for my learning curve/afr ratios and whatever else that can blow me up while im still learning...


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

I just recently melted a piston due to a clogged fuel injector. My advice to you is...do EVERYTHING right the first time. Save up and don't rush to get the car on the road. Eliminate all possibilities of failure. Oo and run meth lol.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I just recently melted a piston due to a clogged fuel injector. My advice to you is...do EVERYTHING right the first time. Save up and don't rush to get the car on the road. Eliminate all possibilities of failure. Oo and run meth lol.


How is that meth kit working out for ya?


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

I love it! That's right I got that from you joe. Had to run a gm map sensor to get it to work. I have a single 225 nozzle right after the intercooler. We'll see maybe go bigger this season.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Got any OTHER parts haha pretty sure if I remember correctly I nabbed a bunch of parts from your part out


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Don't "go bigger" just to go bigger....talk to scott or Q at USRT, and they'll do the math for you based on all the variables and will let you know what size nozzles you SHOULD be running. The formula is also posted on their website under the meth injection section.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Of course not. I was thinking maybe a dual setup for the new year


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Any of you meth guys spray pre-turbo?


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

My coupe im building- non intercooled with some one off parts-ko3 turbo etc.










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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

oh man you need a nicer valve cover than a crummy ABA steel one for that build. 


There is certainly no lack of cool 8v valve covers out there. (Or at least get a G60 or other OEM aluminum valve cover)


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

I like the breathers on fhe old gri covers-they work good and the vc are simple to look at- its what inwas going for, low profile!


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Starting to see spring here in Ohio!. :beer: cheers for the return of driving weather!!!!


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VW Schmidt said:


> Starting to see spring here in Ohio!. :beer: cheers for the return of driving weather!!!!


wait...you dont have quattro?? :laugh:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> Any of you meth guys spray pre-turbo?


its been done

effectively if done RIGHT, meaning proper nozzle sizing and pressure then you make the turbo more efficient. If you were to look a compressor map its efficiency islands would become wider and higher percentages.

if you're interested in a setup, lemme know.


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> wait...you dont have quattro?? :laugh:


I have a syncro drivetrain swapped 2.0.....:what: wait that was my dream?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

what spark plugs are we running again?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Almost there waiting on lugtronics wiring harness soom coolant hoses and axles and it will be on the dyno


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VW Schmidt said:


> I have a syncro drivetrain swapped 2.0..... :what: wait that was my dream?


ONE DAY!


Daskoupe said:


> what spark plugs are we running again?


BkR7e but im running much less boost 


rabbitchaser said:


> Almost there waiting on lugtronics wiring harness soom coolant hoses and axles and it will be on the dyno


Paint dat bish! :laugh: Who cares about going fast! FORM FORM FORM! #scenekid


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

I am ready to put down money on an intercooler, and was heavily leaning toward the Treadstone TR18T for my mk2 due to its thickness of only 2-1/2". Does anyone recommend a better one? I want stock looking fitment with respect to grille, radiator, etc, and many cores are 3"+ thick.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

TR10's fit fine with stock radiator and fan setup.....I wouldn't be too worried about thickness.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

syncrogti said:


> I am ready to put down money on an intercooler, and was heavily leaning toward the Treadstone TR18T for my mk2 due to its thickness of only 2-1/2". Does anyone recommend a better one? I want stock looking fitment with respect to grille, radiator, etc, and many cores are 3"+ thick.


MK2 big bumper in the bumper, or are you saying in front of the rad, behind the grille?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Oh, sorry about that. I meant mk2 big bumper in the bumper (as you would mk3 style).

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

syncrogti said:


> I am ready to put down money on an intercooler, and was heavily leaning toward the Treadstone TR18T for my mk2 due to its thickness of only 2-1/2". Does anyone recommend a better one? I want stock looking fitment with respect to grille, radiator, etc, and many cores are 3"+ thick.


Treadstone make very good efficient cores. go for it. :thumbup:


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

PBWB said:


> TR10's fit fine with stock radiator and fan setup.....I wouldn't be too worried about thickness.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk





PBWB said:


> Oh, sorry about that. I meant mk2 big bumper in the bumper (as you would mk3 style).
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk


Awesome, thanks. if I went with the TR10, would I get the center mount outlets (the tr10C) or the other one where the outlets are offset?



G60 Carat said:


> MK2 big bumper in the bumper, or are you saying in front of the rad, behind the grille?


I was thinking behind the grille, but I do have big bumpers







[email protected] said:


> Treadstone make very good efficient cores. go for it. :thumbup:


Would I be better served by putting behind the bumper in the lower inlet area rather than right behind the grille/rad support? I figured if I had to move the rad back a little or straighten it out it would be OK. that's why I was looking at the tr18t unit since it is slimmer at 2.5" thick but taller.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Q I have a sponsor for vinyl wrap when it's done and ready to race last stop is there going flat baby blue, all decals from sponsors will be lime grean (at least the one I have local) so yes it will look better but all money goes to function right now 


Anyone have a hook up on DSS axles that's my last big purchase


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## 69bug (Aug 10, 2002)

*Vacuum hose question*

I have a kinetic stage 2 kit. I installed everything and want to verify i hooked up all the vacuum lines correctly. I also have a manual boost control that has a t fitting from the compressor housing to the tial 38 waste gate. Can someone walk me thru where all the vacuum lines are hooked up to? Thanks in advance.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

syncrogti said:


> I was thinking behind the grille, but I do have big bumpers
> 
> Would I be better served by putting behind the bumper in the lower inlet area rather than right behind the grille/rad support? I figured if I had to move the rad back a little or straighten it out it would be OK. that's why I was looking at the tr18t unit since it is slimmer at 2.5" thick but taller.


I have small bumper so had no other choice, but I'm sure you could get a bigger I/C into the bumper then you can in front of the rad. I have the bigger MK2 rad, as far as I know there are only 2 styles of MK2 rad, longer for A/C equipped cars, shorter for non A/C cars.

This is a 27.50 x 7.00 x 2.5" (core length is 20.50"), it had to be that length to wrap around my rad with just 90 degree elbows on the I/C. MK2 rads go in at small angle from factory, and I essentially had to square it up (Space the one side back), and center it's placement vs the rad support.











It would be even harder with Aero's, and likely impossible with dual round lights. Look at how close the silicone elbows are to the headlights as is. I also had to turn the battery sideways.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Made the plunge, 4bar fpr, 044 pump and ordered Megasquirt MS3x and harness from diyautotune 


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Carrollton...you were using c2 before?


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

About how much psi can you run without a tune before you run out of fuel? 5? I know this varies on size of turbo but if I were to space out my build and expenses a bit just curious..


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Run on what exactly? Not OEM ecu I hope?


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Carrollton...you were using c2 before?


Yes before was c2 stage 2 

This arrived today !










Installed exhaust with muffler and fixed an exhaust leak from the manifold to head.. Couldn't notice it before installing the muffler lol... 




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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Few vaccum lines, brake booster line and wiring harness and under hood is done


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

What size slicks are those?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Where is anyone finding manifolds? I've been casually looking for one for about a year now...


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)




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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> Where is anyone finding manifolds? I've been casually looking for one for about a year now...


Most of us make our own lol


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Most of us make our own lol


I see that lol.everthing out there is a t25 or doesnt have an external wg port. My head is pnpd and has schrick springs and i have a thick hg in there but no turbo....i had a bbm charger but that blew up after 5 miles of use. I literally have 90% of a turbo kit in my garage just no mani or dp.

Thinking of selling the lot and going 1.8t. Seen a few good contenders in the yard lately...half price weekend is 150 for a whole motor but i really dont wanna go that route. Hoping someone just copies the kinetic mani...theres gotta be some money to be made there right?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> I see that lol.everthing out there is a t25 or doesnt have an external wg port. My head is pnpd and has schrick springs and i have a thick hg in there but no turbo....i had a bbm charger but that blew up after 5 miles of use. I literally have 90% of a turbo kit in my garage just no mani or dp.
> 
> Thinking of selling the lot and going 1.8t. Seen a few good contenders in the yard lately...half price weekend is 150 for a whole motor but i really dont wanna go that route. Hoping someone just copies the kinetic mani...theres gotta be some money to be made there right?


Hmmm...for a quick work. I'd buy the t25 manifold, find someone who can weld, and then make a SHORT up-pipe off the t25 manifold to a T3 Flange. You could add a external wastegate port to that up-pipe and go from there. :beer::beer:

Otherwise you can just roll with the t25 manifold and an internally gated turbo. First off what are your power goals?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I think he meant people make there own intakes, not a whole pile here make their own exhaust manifolds. But some do.

There is lots of turbo manifolds out there from EMUSA, CXracing, BBM, To SPA who probably has the most selection as far as internal/external, bottom mount, rear mount, etc. It's not terribly difficult to add an external wastegate port if you find a manifold you like without one.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Hmmm...for a quick work. I'd buy the t25 manifold, find someone who can weld, and then make a SHORT up-pipe off the t25 manifold to a T3 Flange. You could add a external wastegate port to that up-pipe and go from there. :beer::beer:
> 
> Otherwise you can just roll with the t25 manifold and an internally gated turbo. First off what are your power goals?


Prob just a 50 trim t series with a .48 AR. I have a REALLY close ratio transmission from a 16v Passat so I am thinking that will match the gearing well. 



G60 Carat said:


> I think he meant people make there own intakes, not a whole pile here make their own exhaust manifolds. But some do.
> 
> There is lots of turbo manifolds out there from EMUSA, CXracing, BBM, To SPA who probably has the most selection as far as internal/external, bottom mount, rear mount, etc. It's not terribly difficult to add an external wastegate port if you find a manifold you like without one.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jetta-Golf-...old-/200908978393?hash=item2ec71bb8d9&vxp=mtr

I could do something like that. Im just wondering why someone would make an internally gated t3/t4 manifold?? Im a little frightened by the quality of a manifold like that as well...could crack under heat or something.

The other option is SPA turbo manifold with a 3 bolt WG flange which no one uses anymore and with the mani and the wg elbow piece its like 350 bucks.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I have what I'm sure is that same manifold. 

I think Godspeed, EMUSA, CXracing, eBay, whatever you want to call it are all the exact same cast manifold. The come both T25 and T3 for internal wastegate turbo's. They don't crack, (probably due to having individual runners instead of a one piece flange against the head) but they do need some porting from the end user to match up to the turbo and head correctly. Not a big deal, a quick gasket match and you're good to go.

MK1 and MK2 owners should be prepared to "massage" their firewalls in a bit with a BFH.


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

A little sweet talking, spit, and massage will do :laugh:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> I have what I'm sure is that same manifold.
> 
> I think Godspeed, EMUSA, CXracing, eBay, whatever you want to call it are all the exact same cast manifold. The come both T25 and T3 for internal wastegate turbo's. They don't crack, (probably due to having individual runners instead of a one piece flange against the head) but they do need some porting from the end user to match up to the turbo and head correctly. Not a big deal, a quick gasket match and you're good to go.
> 
> MK1 and MK2 owners should be prepared to "massage" their firewalls in a bit with a BFH.


I think im going to just buy that eBay manifold then. I will need a fabricator to make a Dp and WG port so ill have it towed to Bluewater since their local. 

That's what I was worried about with a t25 and a flange to t3...space. Im down to massage my firewall though. A bit of flaked off paint and tool marks will fit nicely on my junky car lol.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Slicks are 25by9 


New ones will be 24.5s


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Hi all..

I figured I'd post my car in here. I've had my 2.0t for about 8 years now. It was in a Jetta before but the last 2 years was spent re-doing my old daily from the ground up and then transplanting the motor from the Jetta into the Golf.

here's a few pics.

and also to comment. I have an SPA manifold. I ran the 3 bolt wg for a long time but it failed. so this time around i am running a Tial 2 bolt. All I did was tap the flange on the manifold. put some heavy duty studs in there and now its not going anywhere. dumps right out the bottom. all you have to do is plug one of the holes.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Nice car spoolin...hey anyone running a trunk mounted battery? Anyone care to post pics of their set up? At the moment I'm running something like this, but I want to change it up and try to make it a little more legitimate.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Ordered my Turbo manifold :thumbup:


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

wolfcastle said:


> Ordered my Turbo manifold


Ill take a picture of mine and post it for ya for a better shot of what youll be doing. It has a funky mounting plate so i ground off as much as i could, then size matched the hole to the wastegate, marked it, and then tapped it. I think it only comes with like a 35mm hole in it.. and dont forget to gasket match the manifold itself. The SPA manifold is the largest port, highest flowing manifold out there right now. Someone needs to make another, its just tough these days in the american market. We know how capable the ABA is. The rest of the community is on to mk5s and mk6's and now mk7s to make money. If you have any further questions feel free to ask.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> Ill take a picture of mine and post it for ya for a better shot of what youll be doing. It has a funky mounting plate so i ground off as much as i could, then size matched the hole to the wastegate, marked it, and then tapped it. I think it only comes with like a 35mm hole in it.. and dont forget to gasket match the manifold itself. The SPA manifold is the largest port, highest flowing manifold out there right now. Someone needs to make another, its just tough these days in the american market. We know how capable the ABA is. The rest of the community is on to mk5s and mk6's and now mk7s to make money. If you have any further questions feel free to ask.


I just ordered the ebay one with no port since ill have to be modifying the WG port anyways...


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Theres the wastegate in there. Its a 35mm tial. If anyone has any questions just ask. Its not a big deal to adapt it to the car. Half the **** in our engines has to be modified and cut or customized to fit anyway..

I highly recommend going with studs on everything by the way.. my turbo is fastened using studs and arp nuts.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Crikey thats a tight fit. The mani i bought is more of a horozontal mount...hope i can get her to fit.


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Slight set back today... Exhaust manifold decided to break after a run...





















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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I know this has been discussed but I cannot find it...

Which coupler should I run on the turbo inlet in order to clear the space between the motor and strut tower on the passenger side? It's a pretty tight squeeze

Thanks,


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> I know this has been discussed but I cannot find it...
> 
> Which coupler should I run on the turbo inlet in order to clear the space between the motor and strut tower on the passenger side? It's a pretty tight squeeze
> 
> Thanks,


Google "cobra head silicone coupler" and you will be able to find what you're looking for.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Www.siliconeintakes.Com should have it and their quality of couplers is pretty good. They also ship pretty quickly and IIRC they have 2.75" and 3" cobra style couplers.

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

PBWB said:


> Www.siliconeintakes.Com should have it and their quality of couplers is pretty good. They also ship pretty quickly and IIRC they have 2.75" and 3" cobra style couplers.
> 
> -Apple
> via Tapatalk





Mark Morris said:


> Google "cobra head silicone coupler" and you will be able to find what you're looking for.


Thanks guys!

I just ordered everything I need except charge piping and couplers. I want to eye ball it on the car before I order that stuff though.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I got my mk3 Ac setup going. I had to run a TSI intake boot to make it work. (them ac lines are close to that turbo)


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

Im going in a different direction.

Everything is up for sale

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7149030-FS-ABA-amp-Goodies-for-a-boosted-ABA


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I tried that with over 8k worth of "golden goose" type of ABA parts and it no one wanted it. You'll be back. Lol

-Apple
via Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Im going in a different direction.
> 
> Everything is up for sale
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7149030-FS-ABA-amp-Goodies-for-a-boosted-ABA


Wtf. You JUST finished!


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## carrolltoncorrado (Aug 8, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> Wtf. You JUST finished!


I know!! I came across an insane deal on an AEB long block and I already have stand alone so I'm going for it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

new coil and new plugs. High load misfires now! Guess I really need meth and the 4 bar lol


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> Im going in a different direction.
> 
> Everything is up for sale
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7149030-FS-ABA-amp-Goodies-for-a-boosted-ABA


I wouldn't mind just picking up the cam.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

carrolltoncorrado said:


> I know!! I came across an insane deal on an AEB long block and I already have stand alone so I'm going for it!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 unless you're looking for 550+whp why bother? Is the AEB already built?


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

i really need to get the snow thrower out from behind the car....getting the itch.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

1.8t has more car meet "swag", but a 300hp ABA can break all the transmissions you want to break.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

ok guys

Miss fires above 15 psi. AFR doesn't change at all. Feels like 1 cylinder dropping

It was fine I changed my fuel filter and coil,cap,rotor,plugs. Now I have this problem. Not fuel dependent. No difference with 1 bar more fuel pressure. Runs fine out of boost and fine up to 15psi. It will boost over that just sounds like a load misfire so I stop. The strange thing is my AFR stays right at 12.6 12.4 when this is happening. I am thinking I might have gotten bad gas or something. Anything else you all can think of?


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Whats the plug and gal you running-swear by ngk bkr7es (4644 advanced auto part number) gap at .026 Sounds like soark is being blown out from a large gap or crappy plugs. Hest plugs are real basic copper plugs


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I was gonna say plug gap, or fouled off plug (or maybe just bad plug)

I tossed in some plugs one time I thought were gapped, and were not. When I sprayed nitrous at it, it just went "BLA BLA BLA BLA BLA ) it just instantly stopped the revs and held them there. What ever the cause it sounds like it's refusing to fire under high cylinder pressures.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

running new Ngk brkr7ix . These are what I had prior to issue. they are gapped at .029. I'll set the gap a little tighter

I gotta double check the fuel filter and make sure its in the right way


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Basic copper plug is gonna be the best spark-iridium and platinum not so much. Get a straight bkr7es (4644) and be done-best 12$ you can spend. I beleive the ix is a nin basic ngk


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

I just picked up TT 276 WL cam. Would i need HD valve springs for this or could i run the stock stuff?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

OBD I head with OEM dual valve springs should be ok up to about .452 lift (I've seen guys run OEM dual springs on Schrick 268/276) TT 276 is 0.445 or 0.449, I've seen it advertised as both.

OBD II with single springs, absolutely not you will need HD springs.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Nevermind


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Mcmaster car!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

plug wires fix it. The whole ignition system was about 5 years old. Didnt like being disturbed


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

car has been sitting here waiting for the 3" exhaust. been about 3 weeks.. im trying to be patient...


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

After much beating of the firewall...I got the turbo to fit last night in the mk2. Had to coerce the brake line a bit also. 

Should have it on the road within a month or so


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

wolfcastle said:


> After much beating of the firewall...I got the turbo to fit last night in the mk2. Had to coerce the brake line a bit also.
> 
> Should have it on the road within a month or so


post pics I wanna see how you have it set up.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> After much beating of the firewall...I got the turbo to fit last night in the mk2. Had to coerce the brake line a bit also.
> 
> Should have it on the road within a month or so


Yeah Ditto on both counts. I do functional, not pretty.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> Yeah Ditto on both counts. I do functional, not pretty.


How much room you got between turbo and firewall? I have about 3-5 MM right now and im having trouble getting it to beat inwards anymore. I have stiff mounts but im afraid the motor movement will make the turbo hit the wall. I may need to pull the motor to beat in the wall a little bit more and im trying to avoid taking that extra measure.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Uhh not a ton more than that, like 10-15mm or so. 

But I think the turbo is so low down the firewall and the 4cyl's already canted backwards a few degrees. I think its more of a downwards (or at very least down and back/axial) motion on acceleration then a straight backwards motion. That probably helps.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Do you have a P U insert in that rear engine mount?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Nope. (Keep meaning to pick one up though)


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

When I had stock mounts (with upgraded front) and clearance of only ~5mm between the turbo and firewall, my turbo would hit it (not noticeable), however, every so often I would eat through turbo gaskets because I would get torque loss on the turbo mounting because of this. I went through a gasket every year, and it was very annoying.

I did upgraded motor mounts all the way around, and it never hit again, I never replaced another turbo gasket after that.

I hope that helps for some of you :thumbup:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I have BFI white derelin rear mount and a solid aluminum front mount. I think I will be ok.

I put her in gear last night and rocked the car back and forth to check clearance. Motor barely moves and at the point of the turbo maybe 2mm of movement. Im more worried about my front mount bolt breaking as that has happened before, and sending the turbo flying into the wall.

Getting really close, made progress this weekend. Just need to install the pan, relocate battery, get a few couplers and fittings and then take her to the exhaust shop


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## elveloz69 (Aug 26, 2006)

Anyone have a short runner intake manifold for sale? Thanks


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> I have BFI white derelin rear mount and a solid aluminum front mount. I think I will be ok.


Is there an upgraded trans mount?


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

elveloz69 said:


> Anyone have a short runner intake manifold for sale? Thanks


Carltoncorrado does

If your interested in an upgrade...I have everything you need to swap a mk4 2.0 intake that I'll sell you pretty cheap. Not a Shortrunner but hey


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I have the g60 trans mount in there right now. I have a BFE green mount, I think their stage 2 or whatever sitting on my shelf in the garage. My motor mount situation is kind of hodge podge. Im thinking if I put the green trans mount in it may alleviate some of the torsion of the front mount. I just hadn't put it in yet because after installing the white derelin and front solid my teeth chatter.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

I have a green BFE trans mount, solid EIP front mount, and stock hydro rear mount. we shall see how it ends up after i really start driving hard, but a solid front mount will most assuredly destroy stock mounts in the other 2 locations. I'd put that other one in there if i was you.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Wait, so there is a solid rubber trans mount that is an upgrade for a MK2? It's "solid rubber" what is this from, Corrado or Euro Mk2?

I've heard mixed reviews about the solid front mounts. I'm thinking of going to that G60 solid rubber trans mount and poly insert on the other side, I put a new "flying saucer" solid rubber front on a couple years back. I drive this car a lot in summer, and the one Nissan I was in with totally solid engine/trans mounts was pretty awful.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

honestly the solid mount isnt that bad. its a performance car. you sacrifice comfort in the name of performance. the engine moving around like that can make power delivery seem sluggish. 

and yes the corrado g60 trans mount is an upgrade from stock. but let me show you something...










here's a stock hydro mount after catastrophic failure over years of abuse. stock motor.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

When i was rebuilding my car i put a mk3 sub frame in for the sake of the rear mount. I put the derelin white mount in. 

It vibrates like a motherb*tch. Anything and everything that can make noise in the car does so. Even my seat belts rattle now. I guess you sacrifice some ride quality for performance but this is not a car i drive very often.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Has anybody fully solid mounted? Like aluminum or steel mounts with all 3. My V8 buddies swear buy it, either solid mounts or motor plates. I think the reason I hear mixed reviews on the solid front is leaving flexible rears in. You can't pivot something solid...right?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> You can't pivot something solid...right?


I believe this is why my front mount bolt broke off once before.

Im thinking about running the derelin rear, green trans and then just throwing the newer hydro front mount in there that i have.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I'm fully solid mounted, with the bold mk2 rear mount, just welded in metal to the everything together, its a race car but street driven sacrifice of putting power to the ground


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

G60 Carat said:


> Has anybody fully solid mounted? Like aluminum or steel mounts with all 3. My V8 buddies swear buy it, either solid mounts or motor plates. I think the reason I hear mixed reviews on the solid front is leaving flexible rears in. You can't pivot something solid...right?


Technically, you can't, but remember that the front crossmember has some bushings that move slightly.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

B4S said:


> Technically, you can't, but remember that the front crossmember has some bushings that move slightly.


I broke my front bracket with a bbm solid front and now solid rear

I went poly insert rear, green trans, and solid front. No axle issues or mount issues since.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

yea solid mounts arent great. The welds/joints fatigue from constant vibrations and stress. Bushings were created for more than just comfort....:beer:


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

I wasn't trying to debate the use of solid mounts, just that there were some bushings there that people don't usually touch that do flex slightly...ish.
I always run 'bushed' mounts .


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Actually no e is full solid mount have a custom front cross member with no frame bushing but like I said race car, I also broke my front bracket with the old set up, took it off added a bunch of reinforcement never had the problem again


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

exhaust 95% done just need to have a couple more hangers mounted.

3" turbo back all V-Bands.

up on the lift.









looking up past the steering rack. V-Banded at the turbo and at the end of the downpipe.









looking back. He tucked it up nice in there. I have header wrap that I'm going to use on the downpipe and back past the shift tower. I also have a DEI heat shield for my shifter cables.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

fin.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Looks good!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Lookin good, what specs are that turbo if i missed that part?

I am getting the very last piece i need to complete mine today and will be hard at it this weekend. Need to get some pics up!


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

finally getting some work done on my coupe...but i have a couple questions....
first heres a pic of the turbo mocked up...









now Im doing a shaved bay...and for those of you who have done it, what is your solution as far as coolant hoses go? my car no longer has a heater core, or coolant bottle. will be running an mk1 radiator with the fill on the side. bought a new oil cooler hose and water pipe from ecs since my engine didnt have those. looking at the pic does it look like ive got it right? hose from the center of the Wp goes to one side of the cooler, top hose from the WP goes to the other side of the cooler? what should i do about the 2 open ends on the water pipe?
im thinkin there has to be an easier solution for this...any input would be awesome









and the bay which i just sprayed today...


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

may be a little tough to see here.. but I'll explain. my bay isn't shaved for show its been modified to include only performance parts necessary for the car. I changed my cooling setup based on that principle as well. 

The main feed from the overflow tank to the water pump is just one hose running directly from the overflow to the center connection on the water pump. The main coolant hose from the radiator connect to the top of the water pump, and then the main hose from the bottom of the radiator to the bottom of the water pump (obviously). The small hose from the top of the radiator connects to the overflow tank on the top but if you want you can plug that hose on the radiator and just run a small hose from the overflow to the overflow hose on the top right rear of the cylinder head (i had it like this on my old car with this motor for 2 years). I DO NOT recommend deleting the overflow tank especially with the higher temps associated with a turbocharged engine. 

EDIT: i am not using the stock oil cooler. That is used more as a regulator for the stock system. If you want a true oil cooler i suggest an aftermarket system. The stock "oil cooler" is used to get the oil up to temps during cold weather, it is by no means a way of cooling your engine oil. With water temps approaching 200deg. and optimal oil temps at 180-190 it is more of a hindrance than a help. I have a sandwich plate that i will be installing with an oil cooler once i get the correct core for it ( the guy at my local speed shop got me something for a v8 which is too big for my needs).


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Front solid mount is gonna crack your bracket or yank the hardware out if your other two mounts are "wiggly at all" as tje mounter will be working/flexing on the solid mount constanly-inhave been their with enough customers cars and they mever beleive me till it brakes amd tje motor starts smashing into the hood denting it all up-go rubber with the insert up front from gap!!!!! Works money!


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Question: why are you guys using a restrictor? I called turbonetics a few months ago and told them i had been using a restrictor and he said "well, if you use the right size feed line you dont need a restrictor." I have a -4 feed line.. so what is the real reason us VW guys need a restrictor. He said -4 should be good for what i have. But i WAS using the restrictor with my old garrett t3/t4.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

On my holset I'm running -4 with no restrictor, threw tons of research have found as Long as the return is a large diamater so the oil can get threw the turbo it should not have a problem I'm running -10 and its a straight down shot to the pan


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Yeah i have a -10 to the pan as well. Thank you for your input


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

But -4 is pretty big for a feed line you could experience some oil get pushed past the seals even with good straight down drain. However -3 feed line shouldn't need a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo. This is just due to the -3AN hose ends naturally have a very small diameter. 

This is an OEM feed line for Subaru Legacy Turbo (journal). Looks as big or bigger than -4 hose right?









Or does it?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

This is what i bought for mine. My Turbo had a 1/4npt input for the turbo and running a -4 feed line.

http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/T_series_Oil_Restrictor-464-5.html


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

Update: I accidently bought an s4, but still periodically check this thread because a lot of you are doing some good work...:wave:


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Use 3/16 brake line-and adaprote fittin on both ends is perfect for applications like this-i do it all the time


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VW Schmidt said:


> Update: I accidently bought an s4, but still periodically check this thread because a lot of you are doing some good work...:wave:


which s4?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

But more importantly, Saturn SL2! :laugh:


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

G60 Carat said:


> But more importantly, Saturn SL2! :laugh:


That was my highschool car, its now a famiy "back-up"... They are actually surprisingly fast, a lot faster than a stock 2.0


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> which s4?


Bought an 04 b6... im a sucker for that body style. Talked the salesman down significantly because there was no snub mount actually in the car, previous owner had replaced it with a poly mount and when I had the car on the lift at the dealership and had the tech take off the belly pan it was lying there in chunks. Bought an OEM snub from gap and replaced it this weekend.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VW Schmidt said:


> That was my highschool car, its now a famiy "back-up"... They are actually surprisingly fast, a lot faster than a stock 2.0


I use an SL1 as my daily grinder, love those cars. Simple, cheap and reliable. :thumbup:


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## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

G60 Carat said:


> I use an SL1 as my daily grinder, love those cars. Simple, cheap and reliable. :thumbup:


Yes, they are great cars.. Drill a couple holes below each wrist pin and you're golden.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

got her running lastnight and towed to the exhaust shop


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

wolfcastle said:


> got her running lastnight and towed to the exhaust shop


:thumbup: awesome. we want pics..


i had mine towed home on monday post exhaust install. finally got the megasquirt running it last night. Just need to install my wideband so i can street tune her. than bring back to the dyno and get some work done.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> :thumbup: awesome. we want pics..
> 
> 
> i had mine towed home on monday post exhaust install. finally got the megasquirt running it last night. Just need to install my wideband so i can street tune her. than bring back to the dyno and get some work done.


hah...my **** is so ghetto...mostly just my charge piping and inter cooler setup. Im no fabricator... just running the charge piping directly over the battery currently...its not ideal but it works and clears just fine. I know, famous last words of the guy who burns his mk2 down to the ground.

But, this is just my "stage 1." I need to address some rust areas on the car, want to repaint, need new seals and windshield etc etc. need to pull the engine and get the bay painted...honestly thinking about just buying a whole new car that i can take my time on building right and just transfer the good parts from my mk2 over. Then I'd be more concerned about making the bay pretty. All in time though...

I'll post some pics eventually

Edit: Oh, and im running BBM stage 3 supercharger software because i had that left over from my BBM charger that lasted 5 miles. Its essentially the same as the C2 software and was created by Jeff Moss also...so im waiting to see how it behaves before i do anything with the tuning. Utilizes a 3" maf and the same injectors as c2. I have a 1bar WG springs in right now and i have a boost controller i havent installed yet.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

dont worry about being ghetto. Long as it runs and its safe then it doesnt matter.

My car is a progression of 10 years building it. 10 ****ing years. I built this engine when I was 18. I'm 28 now.

You should have seen what it looked like when it was first finished. I learned on this car/ engine. Money was never easy to come by but i still did it. Now that I have a little to play with (benefit of getting married, I'm still broke; but 2 incomes is better than one) I could do it the way I wanted to. I never put car parts on a credit card back then because i knew id be really broke if i did. Here's what my car looked like about 3 years ago. The engine made it over to my red Golf but this is what it originally looked like. one by one I upgraded things.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Haha!

http://hw-mobile.worldstarhiphop.com/u/vid/2015/05/kyXC7nQOEgJa_mobile.mp4?ri=512000&rs=850


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

So buddy if mine has a fully built motor turbo'd obd1 mk3 and is selling the complete car. The shell is crap and I want to swap it all over to my car (obd2) I've been lurking here for over a year and read every page so I'm not gonna ask dumb ass questions. Just want to make sure I'm correct in thinking that the only thing I will need to swap from the obd1 motor is the throttle body. Am I correct? Everything else should just plug in and go. 


Pic of said motor for fun


.









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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Yes- use all your wiring


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

That "exhaust" 


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

Lol yea I won't be running it that way. 


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

InlinePerformance said:


> Front solid mount is gonna crack your bracket or yank the hardware out if your other two mounts are "wiggly at all" as tje mounter will be working/flexing on the solid mount constanly-inhave been their with enough customers cars and they mever beleive me till it brakes amd tje motor starts smashing into the hood denting it all up-go rubber with the insert up front from gap!!!!! Works money!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For the MK2 guys, I did what's pictured below. While it's certainly stopped any excessive engine movements (seems to shift easier when ringing it right out), it's kinda ruined the car at the same time. The killer part is, I thought I was being "Sensible" with not a solid mount in the bunch. I could have went all out with Delrin rears and solid front. :banghead::banghead:


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

so how did it ruin the car?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

It was a really comfortable car before, quiet and I drove it most everyday in summer. Since the mounts went in I find myself leaving it at home, like today. The steering wheel, shifter, and dash all vibrate a ton. If you leave anything in the glovebox it rattles and buzzes. I had to go over all the trim pieces and tighten them down, I only had 3 keys on my key ring (Jetta, BMW, house, and a little metal VW fob) and they were buzzing and jingling like crazy at idle had to strip it down to just the VW key and fob. Has a Shrick 272 in it and I never notice it made the idle rough, but now I certainly do.  

So I find myself just leaving it sit in the garage. It is however better to drive fast, and when pulling off those fast shifts at redline, it seems they wanna go with less effort. (I don't really know how to accurately describe that, other then those wot fast shifts feel more "positive" now)


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*mk2 rear mount*

Hi mates! Mr West does your car vibrates more than a asphalt roller? Because mine vibrates a Lot and after half an hour i got tired of it or i'm getting old!.I do concour with you in the shifting improvement and no engine movement.later mates! Roderick(side note i did upgrade from ms1 to ms3x,short runner,rosa machine fuel rail,denso 550# injectors)will see how it goes!!Still un shure if upgrading my cam from 268* to a 272* or 276 wlc.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I like it when you can't even tell if it's a cop behind you because mirrors vibrate
The blur I call it...


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I have the front stock horizontal discontinued mount and bracket (85). Filled it with 97A PU from mastercarr. Cheap solid mount. I get some rattles and it drives me nuts too....but 3rd gear pull makes up for the red light rattle. In the last 10 years I haven't fixed the window crank. Dash. Or heater control rattles. I know I just need some felt. This is why porsche has variable engine mounts
add current get hard mounts. At idle get no.rattles and smoothness


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I just got a Vibratech trans mount to replace my bfi one. I think i'm going to go full vibratech. No rattling and the motor flexs just alittle


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*rattle*

My car was a blast to drive but the vibration seems like the airport chairs on a massage but in a bad way!!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rodperformance said:


> My car was a blast to drive but the vibration seems like the airport chairs on a massage but in a bad way!!


Track day July 4th Roderick! 

Finally gonna get a time for this setup, probably going to blow some sh*t up, but hopefully not. Having a weird issue with the nitrous, was all good at 35hp jetting, went up to a 50hp jetting. (35n/19f) and now it stumbles/misfires/something twice (like stutter, rev, stutter) then just rips. It happens really quick, but with the supercharger on 16psi and 50hp it would just hit and go. Not sure what's going on here, I hope I just need to swap out the plugs and close the gap a bit.


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## My Big (Dec 26, 2010)

rhinoVdub said:


> So buddy if mine has a fully built motor turbo'd obd1 mk3 and is selling the complete car. The shell is crap and I want to swap it all over to my car (obd2) I've been lurking here for over a year and read every page so I'm not gonna ask dumb ass questions. Just want to make sure I'm correct in thinking that the only thing I will need to swap from the obd1 motor is the throttle body. Am I correct? Everything else should just plug in and go.
> 
> 
> Pic of said motor for fun
> ...


throttlebody, and the maf.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Still need to throw my 268 cam in. I have the stock one in right now. Also need to hook up my wide band...then its time to turn the boost up

Im running BBM 440 software right now made for a supercharger. I may be investing in the C2 stuff once i get my wide band working and im pretty sure the supercharger software has a lower rev limit...yet to test that theory out though.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> Having a weird issue with the nitrous, was all good at 35hp jetting, went up to a 50hp jetting. (35n/19f) and now it stumbles/misfires/something twice (like stutter, rev, stutter) then just rips. It happens really quick, but with the supercharger on 16psi and 50hp it would just hit and go. Not sure what's going on here, I hope I just need to swap out the plugs and close the gap a bit.


To answer my own question. Getting ready for the track, I swapped out the BKR7E's for some NGK Racing non-projected tip 7's (basically same plug, just with non projected tips) My old gap was .025, the new plugs were .028 out of the box. So I left them, figuring they would be ok. 

Hit the highway, do a nitrous pull, misfire- misfire-rev-misfire-misfire-rev-misfire- etc. Ok back to the garage, re-gap plugs down to .018, go test another pull, no problems at all. Jetting way too fat though, was running high 10's AFR off spray, on spray went down to low 9's ( which I think is lowest an Innovate can read)

Pulling some fuel jetting out of the spray, and backed off the extra injector a smidge, now ready to hit the track. Never test pulled again though, but it should be awfully close, and I'm bringing a box full of jets with me. :laugh:

1140kg with me in the car. 
Sub and amp removed, passenger seat removed, anything else not bolted in, rubber floor mats, spare, jack, etc.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Well the car has been to 3 track days I'm on the 5th tune from Kevin running 14 psi andit a kicking ass love the set up and a tone more left here is how it turned out and one of my fastest passes 


My car number is 4049 right lane

I love anti lag 3rd gear burn outs

Got a ton more on Facebook names Ryan cornelison car is only at half potential right now should be in the 10s by end of season


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

Damn! Rabbit I only wish to be able to get on the 12ths!! Goooooood numbers mate!.MrWest looking forward to hear the good numbers Tha i know you'll hit @ the track,then get in touch with Paul kp to make a Megasquirt sistem!!.side note I will upload some pics of my progress!! Later !!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Damn Rabbit!

What's that cars race weight?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Around 1800 I think


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

will vr6 obd2 throttle bodies present any issues if i want to run one? the short runner that i have is built for a vr TB. thanks!


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> Still need to throw my 268 cam in. I have the stock one in right now. Also need to hook up my wide band...then its time to turn the boost up
> 
> Im running BBM 440 software right now made for a supercharger. I may be investing in the C2 stuff once i get my wide band working and im pretty sure the supercharger software has a lower rev limit...yet to test that theory out though.


Go with um 440 softwear knock out all my problems.. I opted for second O2 sensor delete440 race version. Runs like a charm on 18 psi with 3.5 reg with no misfires when I go up to 20 psi I run out of fuel added a w/m nozzle a foot away from the intake and it runs beautiful on 20psi ..


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

I have had better drivability using a vr throttle body than the 4.6l ford throttle body on my short runner.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Well it was super busy at the track on the 4th, and only got 3 passes in. 

But [email protected], with 2.3 60'. (this is a 1.8 8v bottom end, not ABA)

I feel like if I could have picked up a sub 2.0 60 foot, I could have possibly touched 12's. The grip was there, but running an 020 I just couldn't get out of my own head at the line. Thought about airing the tires and coming out at 7000rpm on one more pass, but between the hour+ wait in staging lanes and something not quite right under nitrous. First pass I almost stalled the car on launch, then felt like a freight train in 3rd and 4th to an almost a 106mph trap. The next 2 faster passes it felt like it wasn't doing as much for me on the big end. #3 sparkplug was telling a story about something not being 100%.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> Well it was super busy at the track on the 4th, and only got 3 passes in.
> 
> But [email protected], with 2.3 60'. (this is a 1.8 8v bottom end, not ABA)


that trap will do 12.90s 2.1 60ft will damn near get you there!


----------



## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

For all you megasquirt guys. Im having an issue with my car that i cant quite seem to figure out. maybe someone can help. Its gotta be a simple solution.

I have been running on MS on this motor for about 10 years or so and it has been flawless. over the last year I redid the car and changed injectors from 440cc to 550 ev14 bosch injectors. Thats really the only difference besides a couple hardware things. I changed my req_fuel based on the new injectors and hooked everything up per usual but it will not run right. req_fuel is around 6.3 right now. It sounds like a WRX with an exhaust. like a VR6 with a bad coil. my injector staging is 2 squirts alternating with banks for cyl 1/2 and 3/4. I have been laboring over this for quite some time and I just cannot figure it out.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*ms*

In my case i have them 1-4 and 3-2 doesen't hurt to try!!


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

yeah i actually switched them yesterday to see if it would help. It didnt.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Is it possibly a hardware (a bad injector) issue? You said it started acting up when you went to these new injectors, were they new or used? Have you tried going back to the old setup and see if goes away? The "it sounds like a WRX" sounds like only 1 cyl is acting up.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

G60 Carat said:


> Is it possibly a hardware (a bad injector) issue? You said it started acting up when you went to these new injectors, were they new or used? Have you tried going back to the old setup and see if goes away? The "it sounds like a WRX" sounds like only 1 cyl is acting up.


I sold the old injectors (silly move). These new injectors are brand new. I have tested to see if one was bad but they all are working fine and are all seeing good voltage.


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)




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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

REPOMAN said:


>


What was your best of the day? The Corrado is a 16v turbo now right?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

He is on a stock aba block right now, yes it's a 16v aba

Best of the day was the race against me he was going hard on it 

Think he is at 18psi right now and putting down 260 whp but I'm not sure


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Ok had about 2 hours with Kevin working the car over and talking about the car we are finally using the boost controller should be set at 20 psi and boost by gear is setup also, 

I'm headed to the crappy track in town Saturday night to get more logs and more practice searching for that 10.99 soon


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Drove it around a couple days this week, noticed my oil temps are a good 10-12c higher than typical. It usually reads mid 90's now it's 108c-110c, I even saw a 114c (about 20-25f higher).

Now I'm suspicious, so I start pulling plugs, and checking oil catch can, looking for any signs of another lunched bottom end, but all is checking out good. So I go out and Gtech 3 runs, 2 off nitrous, 1 with some spray in 3rd and 4th. Now the Gtech tells me, I'm down about 35whp from the last time I Gtech'd it on street tires, it's also 0.5 slower than last time. In fact on the spray run with a 50 shot it was only 5whp higher than what it did on turbo alone before. Yet to drive it, it doesn't feel broken. (This also goes hand in hand with it feeling soft on the big end at the track)

After bouncing it around in my head for a day, I figure I have a boost leak. Not bad enough that I don't make full boost still, but bad enough to be spinning the turbo a lot higher. I figure this explains the higher oil temps, and would also explain the reduced power output (more exhaust pressure in the manifold from trying to spin the turbo faster to make up for the leak, and I probably already have lots of back pressure with my .48 turbine side)?

*Does this theory jive?*

edit: Intake temps are up too, I don't/can't log anything but while I was under the hood I touched both sides of the I/C charge pipes and usually cold side is quite cool, especially at night and this time it felt very very warm.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*boost leak*

You could have a boost leak or a isv ! Since you'll still on digifant right?


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Maybe its your wastegate?


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Took my head in to get new stem seals and they found a broken inner spring 

Resurfaced, back on and running like a champ.



The inter cooler setup. I got a bit overzealous with the cutoff tool...looking for a new core support so that my grille isn't hanging on for dear life.


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

wolfcastle said:


> Took my head in to get new stem seals and they found a broken inner spring
> 
> Resurfaced, back on and running like a champ.
> 
> ...


Damn those exhaust valves were getting hot, isn't a fresh head like pure sex or am I just a pervert? :laugh:


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

im getting some misfires under load. runnin ngk iridium bkr6eix gapped at .28. should i lower the gap? or go with some 7e's?

its weird...it will misfire the first time it goes wot...but if i back off and drive literally 1 more minute and try again the misfire is gone. just want to make sure everything is igniting corectly.


thanks


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

How much psi? And what kind of coil?

And speaking of coils, is it possible my MSD blaster 2 coil is causing my misfire under nitrous? I mean I need a crazy small spark gap to light it. I'm thinking about going back to an OEM coil.... I know for experience Accel coils are junk, but maybe the MSD is a down grade from stock?


----------



## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

finally got my new custom built stainless manifold in for the coupe. fitment is MUCH better than it was before...now i can start mocking up the downpipe as well as mounting my intercooler and running some piping. im excited to finally be able to get some work done on this thing.
new mani









previous fitment









new fitment


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Nice!

Specs on turbo?


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> How much psi? And what kind of coil?
> 
> And speaking of coils, is it possible my MSD blaster 2 coil is causing my misfire under nitrous? I mean I need a crazy small spark gap to light it. I'm thinking about going back to an OEM coil.... I know for experience Accel coils are junk, but maybe the MSD is a down grade from stock?


15 psi and a beru. i just put it in also pretty much right before i did the turbo install...had about 30 miles of n/a use. i read somewhere that the heat from the turbo can cook them and someone has relocated the coil before?

i swapped in some 7e's lastnight gapped to about .24. was running great and then got some misfires...so its very intermittent. Im thinking plug wires? Theyre about 2 years old only have maybe 8k on them. Unless he beru is crap i have no idea.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*spark*

Hi mates! Related to msd coils ive heard tha since its designed for múltiple sparks vs one fat energized spark they tend to be lower with out the box,dont know for shure but i can say that my stock g60 coil has been flawless for the past three years or four. If you have a stock coil swap it and see if it helps if it doent switch back! Also i have a few friends running aftermarket coil without problems but all are n/a so it could be since they need less spark or tend to blow out less(no boost)it could work in their case!.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> 15 psi and a beru. i just put it in also pretty much right before i did the turbo install...had about 30 miles of n/a use. i read somewhere that the heat from the turbo can cook them and someone has relocated the coil before?
> 
> i swapped in some 7e's last night gapped to about .24. was running great and then got some misfires...so its very intermittent. Im thinking plug wires? Theyre about 2 years old only have maybe 8k on them. Unless he beru is crap i have no idea.


Take the plugs down to 0.020, see if that solves it. If it does, try a different coil and going back to a .024, if that works you know the coil was weak.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Yeah i'll figure it out. I need to be in the garage diagnosing it instead of on here complaining :laugh:

Hope you get your misfire issues sorted as well


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I sort of do.

I know a .018 gap works and stops the misfire under nitrous. But I don't care for it. Seems way too small a plug gap, and must be giving up something elsewhere.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

please don't go below .024!

The larger the gap the more efficient the burn and you get things like BETTER throttle response. 

If you're having issues you need to gap down that small then look into non resistor plugs like ngk 5671a or a great resistor plug; Brisk Racing Silver GS14YS:beer:


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I'm running one of 2 plugs depending on situation. One is the same NGK BK7RE everybody runs, the other is a NGK racing 4091 (R5671A-7) - Non resistor, non projected tip, 7 heat range plug.

In all fairness I skipped from a .025 down to a .018, so I'm going to open them back up to .022 and see if that still fires under spray. Might also change out my MSD Blaster 2 coil for the Stock coil, which I've heard can perform better?  Mitsu Evo guys run .018 - .022 all the time, but I also agree that's smaller than ideal. It has to be, I just don't know what to do about it.


edit: Now that I think about it, it was the BK7RE that wouldn't fire at .025 (but they almost would, it was like a surging under nitrous), and when I put new 4091's in the day before going to the track, they came out of the box at .028 and when I test hit on them the car didn't do anything. It just stuttered and stopped accelerating. Since I didn't have a lot of time to test with them, I just gapped them small, tested again and it worked. So the non resistors might even fire at .024 or .025??


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> I'm running one of 2 plugs depending on situation. One is the same NGK BK7RE everybody runs, the other is a NGK racing 4091 (R5671A-7) - Non resistor, non projected tip, 7 heat range plug.
> 
> In all fairness I skipped from a .025 down to a .018, so I'm going to open them back up to .022 and see if that still fires under spray. Might also change out my MSD Blaster 2 coil for the Stock coil, which I've heard can perform better?  Mitsu Evo guys run .018 - .022 all the time, but I also agree that's smaller than ideal. It has to be, I just don't know what to do about it.
> 
> ...


run the brisk plugs then. TRUST ME


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

anyone have a short runner or aeg manifold thats pre tapped for a mk4 iat?

whete i tapped mine i have a huge vac leak...explains some of the symptoms i have been experiencing


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> anyone have a short runner or aeg manifold thats pre tapped for a mk4 iat?
> 
> whete i tapped mine i have a huge vac leak...explains some of the symptoms i have been experiencing


so why not seal it with a light amount of silicone??


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> so why not seal it with a light amount of silicone??


trying that as we speak. 
just hoping it will hold up. plus i really want a nice short runner


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> anyone have a short runner or aeg manifold thats pre tapped for a mk4 iat?
> 
> whete i tapped mine i have a huge vac leak...explains some of the symptoms i have been experiencing


Forget silicone (especially RTV), use JB weld on the threads. And wait 24 hours before boost leak testing the car. I know it sounds extreme, but it works,it doesn't break down over time and surprisingly you can screw them right out later on.. 


- About my small spark plug gap issue, I opened the plugs up to .022 last night, and now I'm having a misfire issue under my high boost setting (18psi) but no issues at all on my low boost (which is about 11psi)

I think my MSD coil is just failing, as it seems to be getting worse as the weeks go by. Going to leave the plugs as they are, and just swap out the coil, shoot a timing light at it to make sure nothing has changed, and go test again this weekend. :banghead::banghead: 

I just wanna go fast again


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I just threw it some rtv on it and threw it in the oven @200 degrees for a hour or 2 and it was great :laugh:

My brake booster line was leaking also because my clamp sucked. No more leaks. Got my AFR gauge working. Took her out for a test run...

@ 3500 RPM WOT all was good at 13:1 AFR....4k hit and the AFR gauge went to about 15-16 range! I think my fuel pump is getting tired. That or the BBM software? Im leaning more towards fuel pump since this issue has developed over time....its been starting within the last week or so. it wasn't a spark issue it was a fuel issue afterall.

Im going to get a whinebro and c2 software. I can only manage to keep this damn thing running well for short spurts! Hopefully after this all will be set and i will be able to really turn up the boost with the hpfp.


----------



## VW_MK3_270 (Feb 2, 2012)

opcorn:


----------



## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

downpipe is built and intercooler piping has been mocked up. pretty happy with how the downpipe turned out considering ive never made one before and i suck at welding lol. its definitely getting closer. where should i place the BOV? does it need to be on the throttle body side or on the turbo side? or does that even matter? and im dreading the wiring up of this car...anyone near indiana wanna come help? ill provide all the beer you can drink hahaha


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I really like your setup. Way clean. Is your car CE2? If so it is not too mad to wire it up


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## VW_MK3_270 (Feb 2, 2012)

VWDugan said:


> where should i place the BOV? does it need to be on the throttle body side or on the turbo side? or does that even matter?


I put mine on the hot pipe.


----------



## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> I really like your setup. Way clean. Is your car CE2? If so it is not too mad to wire it up


it is CE2...but i absolutely HATE wiring lol. and since i shaved the bay i wanted to clean it up alot...which means cutting and lengthening almost everything as well as relocating the ECU. i am honestly probably going to save that for the last thing on this car haha


----------



## VWxghost (Dec 14, 2009)

I need some help guys. I can't for the life of me find a turbo that will work for my car...I find airesearch turbos but those are oil and water cooled. What turbos are you running and where are you finding them?...


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VWxghost said:


> I need some help guys. I can't for the life of me find a turbo that will work for my car...I find airesearch turbos but those are oil and water cooled. What turbos are you running and where are you finding them?...


You dont HAVE to run the water cooling. I ran a subaru turbo on my original 8v setup. It has a water jacket and i ran forever without it.


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## VWxghost (Dec 14, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> You dont HAVE to run the water cooling. I ran a subaru turbo on my original 8v setup. It has a water jacket and i ran forever without it.


Alright, well that opens up the options a bit. I actually bought a garrett TB0324 turbo and apparently its a t25.... The down pipe i have is a custom made one from someone on vortex and its a 3 bolt standard down pipe. Another issue Im having is finding the correct hot side that accommodates it.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

VWxghost said:


> Alright, well that opens up the options a bit. I actually bought a garrett TB0324 turbo and apparently its a t25.... The down pipe i have is a custom made one from someone on vortex and its a 3 bolt standard down pipe. Another issue Im having is finding the correct hot side that accommodates it.


Show me pics.


----------



## VWxghost (Dec 14, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Show me pics.


Decided to PM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

What are your guys Target AFR's?


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> What are guys Target AFR's?


12.6 to 12.2


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*afr*

Under boost?I run 11.5-11.9 to safe or rich?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

We run 94 octane E10 (10% ethanol) pump fuel up here. I've heard others say that much ethanol can drop your target AFR 1/2 a point. So 12.5 would become 12.0, any truth to this? Does this fuel have any impact on ideal AFR's?


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Got my C2 software and it is running great. Started at 6psi last night then i turned it to about 10-11 and all good still. Turned it to about 15 today and my AFR gauge indicated 14:1 so im going to have to back it off a bit. So far im happy with the tune though! 

What was the max psi you guys are able to run on your stock pump? I read 15-18 psi. My buddy had a AEG NB and was able to go all the way to 20psi on his stock pump.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

You have a 91 8v Mk2? The easiest way to upgrade that pump is hit the wreckers up and take a MK2 CIS cars pump and accumulator box. You might need the wiring plug, and to use the old pumps hose end adapter fitting. (it's been awhile since I've done that swap.)

The late Mk2 Digifant cars don't have much of a pump from the factory in them.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> You have a 91 8v Mk2? The easiest way to upgrade that pump is hit the wreckers up and take a MK2 CIS cars pump and accumulator box. You might need the wiring plug, and to use the old pumps hose end adapter fitting. (it's been awhile since I've done that swap.)
> 
> The late Mk2 Digifant cars don't have much of a pump from the factory in them.


Correct on the digi etc..i was fearing that the digi pumps are garbage. I could also throw in a mk3 tank and pump and my fuel gauge would read accurately and i;d be able to bump it up a bit. I may go that route and throw an inline whinebro or something just for insurance. They are cheap to run.

I dont trust mk2 CIS pumps from the yard....that could be the reason the car is sitting there in the first place lol


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Could be. Honestly those Bosch pumps are pretty hearty units. I have like a 30 year old pump under my car, never missed a beat. I have friends that go through walbro's every 2-3 years. But the price is good on them too so....

I bet it would be real easy to put an 044 into a MK2?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

So first brake to the car miss shifted the other day in my second race of the day hit 10k rpm car seemed fine pulled around for first round of eliminations Sid burn out roles up to stage and car just made aclunk and died would not restart 

Found the tone ring on the crank shaft sheared all three bolts causing ignition timing to be off

So engine coming out new tone ring, New bolts tacked on place, andgoing to have the crank dowel pinned 

Only full run of the day was a new personal best, at 11.42 with a 15mph head wind with a 1.63 60ft 

Next race in six weeks biggest race of the year should be turned up a lot more Kevin has 6 good logs from me 

Hoping to be deep in the 10s


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> Got my C2 software and it is running great. Started at 6psi last night then i turned it to about 10-11 and all good still. Turned it to about 15 today and my AFR gauge indicated 14:1 so im going to have to back it off a bit. So far im happy with the tune though!
> 
> What was the max psi you guys are able to run on your stock pump? I read 15-18 psi. My buddy had a AEG NB and was able to go all the way to 20psi on his stock pump.


i ran c2 stage 2 on my old mk2 2.0T at 22psi with a stock fuel pump with zero issues on a t3/t04e turbo. that thing was a monster. bone stock obd2 engine other than a head spacer and arp studs with 176k miles. never skipped a beat


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

your car was cis or digi originally?

i may be getting innacurate readings from the aft gauge...i mounted it pretty close to the turbo. Less than a foot away. I think its accurate for he most part but mayve a variance of a couple tenths.


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Hey fellas...got a question for you guys with short runners. You running an intake air temp sensor? And if so, where? 

Key notes:
Obd 2/c2 stage 2000 :laugh:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Hey fellas...got a question for you guys with short runners. You running an intake air temp sensor? And if so, where?
> 
> Key notes:
> Obd 2/c2 stage 2000 :laugh:


 the TB neck.


----------



## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

No ****? MMM Seen that a few years ago.



















We made the solution for that many years ago.

You can buy one at www.Fastlanegermantuning.com


















Not a single failure in 5 years of abuse.

:beer::beer:


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

^Speaking of crank triggers.

I'm getting more serious about switching my car over to MegaSquirt 2, or Microsquirt. Do I have to run a crank trigger wheel? I read somewhere that you can batch fire off the hall sensor in the distrubitor? Is the wheel only needed for COP and sequential injector firing? (although COP with Chevy LS coils does sound pretty damn good)


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

The ABA has a trigger wheel built in, if you're using an ABA bottom end, so you don't have to add one. If you're a 4-window dizzy, you can easily run the whole shebang off that, in batch fire/single coil mode. The trigger wheel is only needed if you want to run waste spark, really. If you add a cam sensor (or the ABA dizzy with the stock ABA trigger wheel), then you can go sequential injection.

In reference to the COP/LS coils...that's what I'm running on my PL 16v (external trigger wheel/dizzy converted to cam sensor). Those coils lit up 5 year old gasoline like it was corn alcohol!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I run what is basically a G60 1.8 bottom end and G60 dizzy, with an ABA head/intake, etc. Which is where my confusion lies on how to get a crank read, somebody said the hall sensor in my G60 dizzy will work?

But if I can run it on OEM ABA bottom without adding a crank wheel, and use an ABA distributor. Maybe it's time to slide a ABA block under that head? There are like $100-$150 from a wrecker here...  (but I'm still sitting on spare G60 bottom ends)


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Yep, basically an ABA gives you the ability to do full sequential fuel injection, and proper COP...on standalone EFI, of course.

The 4-window wheel in your G60 dizzy would let you have batch fired fueling, and fire off a single coil, like stock. It's an easy way to get started, and can always be upgraded later.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Whats the difference between ABA and G60 dizzy? one is 4 window (ABA?) and one is 1 window, right? (I know there is also a physical & gear size difference)

Edit: Nevermind. So you can put a 4 window "gear" inside a G60 dizzy? Hmmmmm


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## REPOMAN (May 3, 2001)

The trigger wheel is for extreme rpm reliability and in 
Some applications like off road racing when your cam sensor 
Fails your switch map and crank trigger won't leave you stranded.


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

G60 Carat said:


> Whats the difference between ABA and G60 dizzy? one is 4 window (ABA?) and one is 1 window, right? (I know there is also a physical & gear size difference)
> 
> Edit: Nevermind. So you can put a 4 window "gear" inside a G60 dizzy? Hmmmmm


The G60 is already 4-window. You can put the ABA single window wheel in the G60, but then you'd need a crank trigger. Not difficult at all, just a bit of elbow grease.

So, you could use everything you already have, and go to standalone EFI, easy peasy .


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

B4S said:


> So, you could use everything you already have, and go to standalone EFI, easy peasy .


:thumbup: 

Thanks, sir. 

MS2/Microsquirt can control a VW ISV right?


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*ABA*

Hi Joe!! Just do the ABA block its sooooo much better,plus 10% more torque and hp is hard to beat.Not to mention how steady it feels at hi rpm's!! And all coming from a g60 engine user like you!!.full g60 ssupercharged,then turbo,then ABA head in pg block to a full ABA on ms3x!! It's just leaps away better!


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

G60 Carat said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> Thanks, sir.
> 
> MS2/Microsquirt can control a VW ISV right?


Yep!


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*almost there*

This is were I'm at! Trying to find some time to finish this protect hope you guys and gals like it as much as I do!! Thanks to all the fellows who have helped along the way,through knowledge shared here or by inbox!


----------



## sykye (Feb 26, 2012)

*ARP head studs needed?*

Could i ask you, are ARP head studs importatnt? because i've used original but new screws. i have 2 head gaskets victor reinz under head. is it necessary to buy arp head studs? thank you.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I don't know. I never have, always just new Headbolts. Never had an issue. Currently running at 18psi, and a 35/18 (55hp) nitrous jetting. Ran it hard a week ago at our local "Mexico"and no issues, went through 1/2 a 10lb bottle in one night. :laugh:

Probably a good idea if you want to take the head off lots.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

so i installed he walbro and still running lean over 10psi.

i cranked it to 15psi and it was seeing values of 13-14afr and misfiring bad. when i would let off the throttle it would continue to mosfire for a few seconds after i hit the gas again

leads me to believe i have some other issue. any ideas? should i be running a 3 or 4 bar fpr? i


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> so i installed he walbro and still running lean over 10psi.
> 
> i cranked it to 15psi and it was seeing values of 13-14afr and misfiring bad. when i would let off the throttle it would continue to mosfire for a few seconds after i hit the gas again
> 
> leads me to believe i have some other issue. any ideas? should i be running a 3 or 4 bar fpr? i


What turbo? What injectors?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> What turbo? What injectors?


Im running green 440's with a 50 trim garret .48ar. c2 stage 2 software. All my hardware needed is there, 3" maf etc.

The fuel filter has less than 5k miles on it. I mounted the inline wabro to feed directly into the filter. So it goes tank pump, walbro, filter. I dont think that would effect it though....

Maybe my MAF just can't keep up with the increased g/s or something? I am at high altitude also. Im not throwing any codes except for evap which isn't hooked up and post cat o2 which is also not hooked up.


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## VW_MK3_270 (Feb 2, 2012)

wolfcastle said:


> Im running green 440's with a 50 trim garret .48ar. c2 stage 2 software. All my hardware needed is there, 3" maf etc.
> 
> The fuel filter has less than 5k miles on it. I mounted the inline wabro to feed directly into the filter. So it goes tank pump, walbro, filter. I dont think that would effect it though....
> 
> Maybe my MAF just can't keep up with the increased g/s or something? I am at high altitude also. Im not throwing any codes except for evap which isn't hooked up and post cat o2 which is also not hooked up.



Green Giant injectors and a inline pump and your lean??? Hot damn!

I wouldn't forget about gapping your plugs while you are playing around with your boost and fuel. I read a NGK article that said to shorten plug gap -0.004" for every +50 HP. Just my $0.02.

OEM ABA plug gap is 0.024" and I would inspect the MAF, throttle position sensor and O2 sensor.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

im of the opinion something isnt being metered accurately also...

my harness is kinda ghetto. i extended a bunch of wires from when i was supercharged. 

just got new pigtails from the yard for a ton of my sensors. see how she goes.


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

What's everybody running for a turbo drain line. I am running a piece of hydraulic hose but I can't seem to get it to clamp well enough to seal on the bottom. It always dribbles a little. Did you all have lines made and crimped? I don't trust radiator hose to take the heat, and silicones don't always play. 

Pic given in exchange for suggestions.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

About the drain.

First I went to an industrial hose place, and they sold me a few feet of something that looks like rad heater hose, but has a green ring inside it's casing. It's high heat and oil/gas resistant. But it's a bit stiff and I couldn't get it to go through my motor mount without kinking (I use a diesel MK2 rear mount, and my oil pan has an up-swept barb welded onto it), so I ended finding an old pre-formed MK2 heater hose in the garage and it worked perfectly. I ordered a brand new one, and now I just check it whenever I'm under the car, if it ever feels soft I'll just change it out it's a cheap hose.











Lets Talk Turbines!

I think (99% sure) I blew my turbo, possibly oil starved it because it's not smoking. But it seems to have some up down shaft play, you can hold up on the shaft and it won't spin. And when I try to boost it sounds like a seized bearing being forced to turn, or maybe a high pitched fire truck. Also the engine is all checking out great (Compression, cam and ignition timing, oil pressure, no oil coming out the breather) but it's idling at very low vacuum and sounds rough (lots of idle valve compensation), which leads me to think the turbine is acting like a big potato in the exhaust right now.

so do I go with .48 again, or step up to the .63 this time? Also thinking about going bigger on the compressor (from 43mm to 55mm inducer) I'm a 1.8 bottom end with a schrick 272, and ported head. TT HD springs, my rev limiter is set at 7000rpm. But the current turbo seems to fall off after 6000rpm. I feel like I should go with a bigger turbo and just rev more.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

That sucks Carat!

What turbo did you have and how many miles were on it?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Not very many. Maybe 10,000km (6,000 miles?) It's just a cheap EMUSA .42/.48 50 trim T3. 

The Miata turbo guys have really good luck with it, but it might be hit or miss. Plus I might have killed it myself, I put a 0.060" restrictor on it to be sure it wouldn't puff oil, and thinking maybe I shouldn't have done that. :banghead: I'm also really bad for not letting the car idle down after driving it. I mean I did at the track and when at "Mexico" but not in normal day to day driving.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

so ive been doing some tinkering...

i rewired a bunch of sensors since my harness was kinda ghetto and gapped my plugs down to like .22.

now its running extremely rich...like 10.0flat maxing out the afr meter. ran it to like 18psi that way...

im thinking of widening the gap? factory gap is .24 but im running colder plugs. going to go to like .25 and see if hat makes a difference. thoughts?

i checked for boost leaks also by pressureizing the system


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> so ive been doing some tinkering...
> 
> i rewired a bunch of sensors since my harness was kinda ghetto and gapped my plugs down to like .22.
> 
> ...


engine tuning is trial, error, and experience. Try it and report back.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

yeah...i think im going to widen the gap a touch...throttle response was a bit strange at low rpm at .22.

then...just turn it up till its not rich anymore....22psi here i come?


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Possibly a dirty/faulty fuel injector? When you pull the plugs out what are they looking like? Is one a different color than the other 3?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Im at my wits end here...


Anything under 10psi, she runs great. Once you go above that, it richens up. Also battling a misfire. My 7e's gapped at .24 misfire like a son of a bitch. I have some iridiums 6 series, so one step hotter, and they only misfire about like 18psi gapped at .26. Makes no sense to me at all. Misfiring on all cyl. Coil less than 2000 miles on it Beru. Going to jsut throw the iridiums back in and close the gap to like .23 and see how she goes

I pulled a code for MAF sensor p0103 high input last week. Just replaced with a new bosch sensor....its running better but still richens up to hell in higher PSI. What is strange is that in 2nd gear and 3rd it will pull like 11.5-11.1 range for AFR. in 4th gear it jsut goes right to 10.00.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

is that obd1 or obd 2 car? Is your Maf pre turbo?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Its obd2. Maf is pre turbo just on the intake side

on 10 psi she runs like 12-12.5 afr's....


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

gapped iridiums down to about .24. i drove around and let her warm up for a good few minutes to operating temp

i hit wot and bang...misfires...


tried wot again...no misfires for the rest of he extended drive. 

2nd and 3rd im in he 11's for afr value. 4th and 5th gear is abount 10.5 and 10.00 (or richer? bottoming out gauge at that value.)


at this point i may be seeking professional help unless anyone has any ideas. timing is good and he car runs great at 10psi in he 12's for afr values. anything above that the car does not like. 

icve pumped about 15-20 psi thru an air compressor and there are no leaks...

she also like to lean out at idle every once in a while...feels like its going to die but doesnt. that happens when its warm and ive been sitting at a light. that problem is intermittnt/random


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

How old are your plug wires? cap? rotor? Make sure you use bosch cap and rotor and bremi plug wires BERU Coil. My aba not run on anything else


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Some advice, you don't want to run sub 10's or richer for very long.
Your oil probably needs to be changed.
If you can't get stock plugs (or 1 step colder) at stock gap to run 15psi..... its not your plugs, you have a completely separate issue IMO.

How well do you know your MAF sensor is running? Did you try a different one?

Sounds crazy, but I would also speak to C2 about getting another chip, a reflash, or something of that nature. 

My bet is something is strangely being monitored and telling your ECU to do silly things, or the map has an error.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Everything is basically pretty much new and all OEM. Beru Coil(02/2015), Bremi wires(09/2013 less than 8k miles on them), cap and rotor Bosch within the last 2 months. Plugs are new. Maf is BRAN EFFIN NEW I hear what you are saying about the oil....i havent been running it much at those afr values....just here and there trying to diagnose the issue. I've had it mostly at 10psi before this and it was good.

I don't misfire much at 15psi. The 7e's misfire a little bit at 15 but the iridium 6's are great at 15psi. And what perplexes me further is that at 10psi and under it runs great!

I tried to reach the equilibrium point last night by just cranking up the boost controller. I had it at about 20 plus PSI since my gauge only goes to 20 i cannot tell exactly. AFR's were somewhat inconsistent. On one of my 4th gear pulls, revs started to climb (15ish psi) and the AFR went to 10.00...then psi went to 20 and the afr's held like 11.5-10.8 and then just started to misfire....it definatley wasn;t leaning out though 

Urge to kill: rising  :laugh:

Came home and scanned....pulled another p0103 mass air flow high input. The MAF is literally less than a week old, just bought a new Bosch. I only pull that code when i go above say...18 psi. 

I'm going to rewire my maf plug again, (i have an extra oem pigtail) and im going to play with my air filter. I have one of those canisters with a 3" inlet and a cone inside of it....possibly causing some turbulence?? i have no idea. After that, im hitting up blue water performance and having them just throw it on the dyno for some data logs.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

pull the filter off and drive it!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> pull the filter off and drive it!


took it off and it actually ran worse.

double checked timing and pumped 20psi hru it to check leaks. both are good.

its stumbling at idle sometimes, rev hanging a bit, and rich at wot. sounds like timing? could it be my knock sensor you think?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I run a spacer on my knock sensor. Whats your Diverter valve like?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

My DV is a turbosmart dual port....its a 1" unit. It plumbs back into the intake and vents to atmosphere. I have no reason to suspect that it is leaking.....its brand new and withstands pressure tests

You can see from the photo. 




Im going to put it back together and just take it into the shop  I'll let you guys know what the issue is....i've been battling this for a while now. It was running lean at high psi for a long time, i shortened my MAF, TB, and IAT wiring since they were a hodge podge of different gauge wires that i extended to accommodate the supercharger. Ever since i put factory wiring back in (soldered, heat shrink, verified wires are all in correct order) it has been running rich only at WOT and only above 10psi. I even re wired my MAF the other night with a new to me plug....still running rich.


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## jasonbend79 (Jul 19, 2007)

Looks good. :thumbup:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

jasonbend79 said:


> Looks good. :thumbup:


Thats about all its good for right now is to look at :laugh: Thanks man....gotta watch out for that hanging air filter in my bay though....dont wanna blow my turbo!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

just a thought. These car hate vented valves. Go grab a stock 1.8t one and see if that makes a difference


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I can plug the port to atmosphere so it just goes back into the intake tract. Not sure if it will make a difference but worth a shot.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

High MAF value and rich afr's points a boost leak. At least on the modern stuff I've worked on, like Coballt SS turbos, etc.

In this situation the fact that you were ok at lower boost pressure, even point to it more. But then you say the AFR's straighten out at higher boost, but I wouldn't put too much weight in that either. You might have just been out of injector for the MAF value.

Do a boost leak test with your regulator set at 20psi, see if anything just open up and gushes out some air.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I've leak checked it so many times now. I have a little compressor and am able to put about 25psi thru it. I fixed everything that was leaking....the only place it leaks now is out of the valves and pistons rings themselves. You think its possible my bottom end is jacked? I just had my head rebuilt by a machine shop. Last time when i put 25psi thru it i could see vapors comnig out of the crank case vent...since the car was warm


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

No that crankcase gurgle or whistle part is normal.

Last couple of times friends brought me cars with codes that said "MAF value exceeds threshold" or other such things, and both turned out to be boost leaks. But those car are more complex and can see a discrepancy against MAF reading vs Injector timing vs Wideband reading. One had a sizeable hole in the intercooler end tank.

Your filter is right clamped to the MAF right? Do a test having at least 6-8" of straight pipe before the MAF. I've seen cars with shotty tip in and weird hesitations/surging issues get sorted out with just this change. At the higher boost levels it's possible the extra CFM is just more turbulent and your getting terrible readings. (just tossing that out there as it an easy one to test)


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> so i installed he walbro and still running lean over 10psi.
> 
> i cranked it to 15psi and it was seeing values of 13-14afr and misfiring bad. when i would let off the throttle it would continue to mosfire for a few seconds after i hit the gas again
> 
> leads me to believe i have some other issue. any ideas? should i be running a 3 or 4 bar fpr? i


Sounds funny butninplug main o2 sensor (up stream), clear codes and go drive. Oddly i have had faulty o2 sensors causemlean conditions, if yah can befor clearing codes check long term fuel trim, bet its pulling fuelmcause the o2 is junk, have had two aba's do this-did everything you did, unplug o2 boom no misfires!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Thanks all for the help, i know its confusing. I don't suspect my o2 sensor is bad. It was brand new in September 2013 and its a Bosch. Havent really put many miles on the car since then.


Little update, i put my Maf more downstream like Carat suggested. This really helped at WOT. Afr's are between 11.5 and 12.0 now at WOT @ 15psi. Didn;t test any other boost levels because of the following drivability issue



However, i noticed under partial throttle it was running super rich, then super lean, then rich, lean, rich and so on. It was bucking slightly. At idle it would do the same. It would go past 10.00, then all the way past 18, then back and forth. A few times it died. I pulled some throttle body code for adaptation limit reached. WTF!!! it never ends.


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

wolfcastle said:


> However, i noticed under partial throttle it was running super rich, then super lean, then rich, lean, rich and so on. It was bucking slightly. At idle it would do the same. It would go past 10.00, then all the way past 18, then back and forth. A few times it died. I pulled some throttle body code for adaptation limit reached. WTF!!! it never ends.


Mine was doing the exact same thing. Took me ages to figure out, and eventually just sold the car. Guy I sold the engine to said head gasket was blown. Thats it. I was pissed. Could that be the issue with yours? No idea, but worth a check imo.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Speaking of blown gaskets. I took the car out racing one night. Ran a pile of nitrous through it, it was very hard starting out at "the track" after sitting for a bit and I thought it was just the plugs. 

But even after the hard starting, I did a roll with my buddies S4 3.0T, and we ran them all the way up to 200km/h on the highway back into town. The car ran great, went side by side with the Audi and it's Tuned, pulley, intake & full exhaust, so it's a strong car. 

Then I get maybe 5 blocks from home (having driven it about 20km since racing the Audi with no issues). Stalls out at light. Restarts and I get to my front street, stalls out again. Stalls out a 3rd time pulling up the driveway into the garage. So in my head I think the plugs are F-ed now. I swap the plugs for brand new NGK's, car starts but doesn't want to idle, sounds like a misfire, that heavy 1-2-1-2-1-2 lope of a dropped cylinder, vacuum gauge is telling my the ISV is open a ton to keep the car idling. So I change everything ignition related, still no change. Now I'm no stranger to a cooked bottom end, but every time I've done that, I get copious oil mist coming out the breather. This time oil mist is normal (basically none) as it was prior to this problem. So I grab the compression tester just to humour myself. I find #4 to be about bang on (160psi on my crappy tester, but 9:1 and 272 cam, so ya whatever), #3 is a bit lower than #4, probably just wear. But.... #1 and #2 are barely hitting 40-50psi. :banghead:

It is possible I blew out a MLS head gasket between 2 cylinders?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> Speaking of blown gaskets. I took the car out racing one night. Ran a pile of nitrous through it, it was very hard starting out at "the track" after sitting for a bit and I thought it was just the plugs.
> 
> But even after the hard starting, I did a roll with my buddies S4 3.0T, and we ran them all the way up to 200km/h on the highway back into town. The car ran great, went side by side with the Audi and it's Tuned, pulley, intake & full exhaust, so it's a strong car.
> 
> ...


put a table spoon of oil down #1 and #2 and see if your compression comes up


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

i just did a dry check and results:

[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Cracked ring landings, how much blow by?,


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> It is possible I blew out a MLS head gasket between 2 cylinders?


Possible, the pressure is going somewhere.
One time I had 0psi... had a chunk of my valve missing 

You'll be pulling the head on this one for sure :facepalm:




wolfcastle said:


> i just did a dry check and results:
> 
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> ...


Fairly consistent, are you on stacked gaskets?

When I blew my ringlands I was < 90psi and had major blow by.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

no i have the c2 headspacer which i think is a bit thicker than stacked gaskets...plus im at altitude so that will reduce numbers considerably.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*blow by*

in my case I had 150,150,135,90 and my friends called my car Thomas!! So imagine how much smoke from the breather!!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

rodperformance said:


> in my case I had 150,150,135,90 and my friends called my car Thomas!! So imagine how much smoke from the breather!!


Yeah i dont see an abnormal amount from what i can tell. The crankcase is open dumped right now though so no real way to measure it. I still need to hook my catch can up. My numbers are 10-20% lower just because of altitude.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Wolf's numbers are just low....as long as they are even your dynamic compression ratio will be lower. Personally, if there's no or little blow by I'd continue running it. Now, if there was a significant deviation between your highest and lowest cylinder, then it's time to rip it all apart.

My .02


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Im sure someone could interpret these formulas more meaningfully than i can...but what i see is that @ 5000 feet there is about 18% drop in atmospheric pressure. at sea level there is 1 bar 14.7 atmospheric pressure and at 5k feet it drops to 12.2. 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-altitude-pressure-d_462.html

I'm at about 5200-5400 feet. Giving a 20% increase to my numbers would put me at about 150-160 range


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

That sounds about right. I'm in aviation and am also in a meterology class right now and that makes a good bit of sense without doing the math. And on a stock CR motor, you'd see in the 180s, so I don't think you're doing too bad AT ALL, especially given the altitude. I say send it.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> Cracked ring landings, how much blow by?,


So my current 150-130-40-40. Doesn't smoke at all. This old engine of mine, compression tested well, but would half fill a 500ml catch can in a quick drive around the block. The cracked ringlands pinch the rings, once they can't "float" they can't seal.



G60 Carat said:


> All 4 looked good from up top. But the oil pumping out the breather told a different story.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

^^^^Yup, that'll do it.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I'll be back in an ABA-T after this weekend.....Yes, after an 8 year haitus, I'm back bitches.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


> I'll be back in an ABA-T after this weekend.....Yes, after an 8 year haitus, I'm back bitches.


Guess who's back, back again.... eace:

You still using a MK3 chassis?
I've considered going to a MK2 build... no promises on coming back though :sly:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Yep, mk3. It's gonna get pretty crazy too. Eventually the car will be front half'd and the APTuning gears, water meth, giant intercooler, 3076r, equal length turbo manifold, solid lifter big valve head, and everything else I have will be going in it. Looking for 10s eventually.

But my 9/10 condition Monty green 91 gti rolling shell is for sale. Comes with a few custom goodies if anyone is interested.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)




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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

PBWB said:


>


.....and so...IT BEGINS AGAIN....:beer:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

2.pt slows old car?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> .....and so...IT BEGINS AGAIN....


Yea, except this time with about $8k more than what's already in it....fml


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 2.pt slows old car?


Yup. No S in the name, but yea same CJ....he knows I've had a boner for that car since he put it together in ~2007, and we've maintained a relationship to where I'd pretty much get first right of refusal if/when he ever wanted to sell it. It completely boggles me why in the last 2 years no one has picked that car up....oh well. Everyone's loss, my gain!


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Yea, a quality example. Nice pick up.

Front half a ****box, not that thing. Front suspension won't be your limiting factor in any sense. I like the rest of the list though!


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

root beer said:


> Yea, a quality example. Nice pick up.
> 
> Front half a ****box, not that thing.


I'm taking a page from the Aaron Crossley school of go fast. It'll happen, just not any time soon. The goal is 10s or 500whp and I have nearly all of the hard parts to make that happen but I'd rather take my time and enjoy the car for a bit before I completely put it under the knife.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I saw that car in the classifieds. Awesome pickup :beer:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

root beer said:


> Front suspension won't be your limiting factor in any sense. I like the rest of the list though!


Right, I wouldn't be doing it for that reason per say, but more for eventual weight savings (every little bit helps and adds up), camber plate installation, and so I can change the suspension geometry enough to clear another inch or more of rubber under the front fenders. I do have the Voomeran (Euro Magic/Rotiform/whatever) flares, and I'd like to copy them so I can have em on both cars, but sourcing a place that won't charge me more than I paid for them is the hard part. Hopefully I'll be able to eventually just throw on slicks without changing too many things around to get em cleared. I've mocked up the flares as they would be installed and I get just over 12" of room from the coils to the lip, so another inch or so should do it while maintaining steering lock capability.

Thanks everyone for the kind words.....It's gonna feel good to be back in the saddle again. Hell, maybe next year I might even make a pass or two.


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## root beer (Jun 22, 2004)

Let's meet up! I'll be back out in a month or something.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Sounds good. I'll find you on Facebook.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


>


Sweet. looks real clean.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

With all that work I would be looking at 9s and more power

I'. Looking at making 600whp and be in the 9s next year

If your front halfing the car I hope your doing the rest the floors and what not, or are you still wanting to daily it?

I'm all ready looking down at 10s this next weekend 


At only 18 psi


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

Looks really clean now that I finished with it . Glad its going to someone that will take it further.








[/url]20150904_201221 by clordj12, on Flickr[/IMG]


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

still having some issues with the car. Haven't really been able to work on it too much lately with a new kid and all. 

Here's a video of what is going on. there is no rev limiter setup in the car but its definitely doing something at 4k. While driving no matter what I do to the VE table to richen up the mixture to run less lean it still goes dead lean at 4k and will not rev past that. This setup has been running well for the last 9 years. this past year i swapped everything to a better shell with the only change being new bosch EV14 550cc injectors. Help!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hoE1UDY99Y


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> still having some issues with the car. Haven't really been able to work on it too much lately with a new kid and all.
> 
> Here's a video of what is going on. there is no rev limiter setup in the car but its definitely doing something at 4k. While driving no matter what I do to the VE table to richen up the mixture to run less lean it still goes dead lean at 4k and will not rev past that. This setup has been running well for the last 9 years. this past year i swapped everything to a better shell with the only change being new bosch EV14 550cc injectors. Help!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hoE1UDY99Y


Is there a launch control function. I'd check the wiring related to that


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

rabbitchaser said:


> With all that work I would be looking at 9s and more power
> 
> I'. Looking at making 600whp and be in the 9s next year
> 
> ...


600whp is gonna be TOUGH......I wish you the best though.

My car will remain a street car, even after being front halfed. I might by that point though just try my luck at RWD with the ABA because that's never been done in country, but we are talking a few years down the road at a minimum (and a couple hundred passes worth of seat time under the belt).

For now, the goal is for this mk3 to see 10s, and that's a long ways away in itself, so baby steps it is. lol


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*injectors*

Hi mate! For some reason my friends car did the same,when he put new injectors then he fitted stock ones and it was good.it turns out the injectors were low impedance,replace them with hi impedance and now he is golden.just some thing to check! Don't know if that's any help or not!


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

yeah they are high impendance so they should work fine. they are a newer style though so i don't know if that has anything to do with it. I do feel like it has something to do with my ignition though.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*two step*

Hi mate! Ev14 shouldn't be the problem,as it has been said before by a fellow texter,two step or rev limiter! Also check igniion settings.or post your msq and some one more knowledgeable than me can help out.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

UPDATE: I did some digging tonight and found what may be the issue. I got a new cap and rotor and installed it. I then grabbed the timing light and decided to check timing yet again. So when I set the fixed value to 6 deg. it will idle at that advance no issue. now when i rev the engine and keep my light on the mark it advances the timing and i lose the mark; but its still set on 6 deg fixed angle. So then I set it back to -10 to run off of the spark table and changed all the values to 6 deg just to double check this issue. and once again it still advances the timing and i lose my mark. 

So I'm thinking if this is happening while the real spark table is active it must be advancing the hell out of the timing. 

what gives?


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

This is what happens with standalone on 60-2 crank sensor. There though be a 1d rpm table to correct this.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

TIGninja said:


> This is what happens with standalone on 60-2 crank sensor. There though be a 1d rpm table to correct this.


its using hall effect for crank position. it doesn't use a 60-2 wheel.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

im considering parting my setup out. cant fkgure out whats wrong with it.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Don't do that....you'll regret it. Dig deep and fix it. You'll only grow more knowledgeable in the process.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

wolfcastle said:


> im considering parting my setup out. cant fkgure out whats wrong with it.


Seriously dont do that. What is going on with it. 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> im considering parting my setup out. cant fkgure out whats wrong with it.


Stop considering.

Make a new thread and post a link in here.
Lets examine this setup and everything you've done.... lets start from the beginning.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*vets*

Good to see some come back's from seasoned guys,the contributions from this guys is invaluable to newcomers'. The 8v army like dascoupe used to said is growing and the knowledge can't be lost! Keep at it bothers! Apple,DAs,gtijoe,filthydub,captdreads, and the old timers(vets) Andrew Stauffer,Peter Tong, SNS guys and the rest not mentioned here!.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7244128-Wolfcastle-s-ABA-turbo&p=88288516#post88288516


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Forget the canned tune, it is never going to work for you. I would swap it over to OBD1 and bring it to your local honda tuner for a custom tune.


----------



## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

TIGninja said:


> Forget the canned tune, it is never going to work for you. I would swap it over to OBD1 and bring it to your local honda tuner for a custom tune.


I think majority of ABA-T's have issues because they rely on chip tunes. The setup is extremely sensitive.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Which is EXACTLY why I have lugtronic almost ready to go on! Spend the money and do it right while having the versatility and more power all at the same time...


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

TIGninja said:


> Forget the canned tune, it is never going to work for you. I would swap it over to OBD1 and bring it to your local honda tuner for a custom tune.


Sadly enough this is true for a lot of guys.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

TIGninja said:


> Forget the canned tune, it is never going to work for you. I would swap it over to OBD1 and bring it to your local honda tuner for a custom tune.


Is this a decent option? Planning out my build now, but one of my obstacles is that I am obdI, and the chip tunes are supposed to be way better for obdII. At least according to C2.


----------



## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Why noy just go obdii? They are def a way better tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Get megasquirt. 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Have ran several obdii c2 chips with various turbos and they all worked great. Ps i build obdi and obdii aba swap harnesses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

*uncomon turbo build*

I am up and running. I built an aba-t for my vanagon syncro. It moves well...but not until after 3300 rpm or so. Boost is varied upon load, conditions and foot. 

I'd like to be able too have more punch below 3300 rpm. I am a newb to building engines. I have a journal bearing Garrett .42 cold and .60 hot.
A local who is respected thinks my turbo is the wrong size and/or the van gearing is so low that I don't get enough heat before it's time to grab another gear.

As it stands it's kinda nice that I'll be at cruising speed 3-3500 rpm and stability the pedal to dominate in traffic.

Any advice?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

How y car is sitting right now fastest pass so far is 11.41 at 121


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

Ahhhh, I had a feeling that was you! I just missed you ar waterland.

You had some great runs.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Car ran crappy at waterland due to timing issues it will be out Saturday at pir, timing issues fixed, new slicks alighnment and sway bar removed have to get my 60ft times consistant and more logs for Kevin so he can work on the tune


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

So what happened here? 

The bottom end is 100% fine, the valves are not melted, and it manifested itself as a blown head gasket. 

The ring of "pitting" goes all the way around the sealing edge (just inside the sealing ring) of the head gasket on a couple cylinders, not just the beside the intake valves. Although cylinder #1 right by the intake valve easily shows the most damage. So what caused all this chewing at my cylinder head?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Detonation?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I'm down here at h20i cruising around....if you see me give me a shout!


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

PBWB said:


> Detonation?


Something called cylinder head Fettling

Now was it caused by detonation, head surface irregularities, head bolt stretch (aka head lift). I don't know?


----------



## VW Schmidt (Aug 27, 2012)

:thumbup::thumbup:


PBWB said:


> I'm down here at h20i cruising around....if you see me give me a shout!


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

Some updated pics of my ABA-T. Finally on the road!! Still needs some tweaking, but pretty damn close. :thumbup:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Nice! We definitely need more of these out there turning heads.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

rawk said:


> Some updated pics of my ABA-T. Finally on the road!! Still needs some tweaking, but pretty damn close. :thumbup:


damn that's sick


----------



## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

this may have just changed my mind on what im going to be running in terms of intercooler... really inspiring. 

has anyone done anything like this without water, just reg. intercooler?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I would advise against not running water with an AWIC.....it's nearly useless because you have no real means of cooling IATs....I was thinking since he had the barbs installed that he was going to finish it, but yea....not a good idea if you're trying to do anything over 230whp or so without the aid of something else like water meth.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Rawk am I going to see you at Fixxfest?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rhinoVdub said:


> this may have just changed my mind on what im going to be running in terms of intercooler... really inspiring.
> 
> has anyone done anything like this without water, just reg. intercooler?


that is POINTLESS. You either need air running across the core like a FMIC or water to cool the pressurized air from the turbo.:banghead:


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

What's up guys, quick question for the cam/boost gurus in here. How much better does the 276wlc cam work for boost compared to the N/a 276? I found a good deal for the n/a version 276, but don't want to buy it if the 276wlc cam is THAT much better. Any thoughts?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I don't really have much input there, because I started my abat haitus a few years before the wide lobe version became available.


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

PBWB said:


> I would advise against not running water with an AWIC.....it's nearly useless because you have no real means of cooling IATs....I was thinking since he had the barbs installed that he was going to finish it, but yea....not a good idea if you're trying to do anything over 230whp or so without the aid of something else like water meth.


I'm definitely planning on finishing mine, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I have the radiator installed for the intercooler and the fan mounted. Just need to add the pump and plumb in the lines. 



Daskoupe said:


> Rawk am I going to see you at Fixxfest?


Quite possibly. Any local VW meet ups before then?



GTijoejoe said:


> damn that's sick


Thanks man!


----------



## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

Oh yah, I just added one of those fancy 'lava' PTP Turbo blankets today. It made an enormous difference in under bay temps! 

Any of you have any experience with exhaust manifold wraps? Like the titanium ones? Worth it?


----------



## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

rawk said:


> Oh yah, I just added one of those fancy 'lava' PTP Turbo blankets today. It made an enormous difference in under bay temps!
> 
> Any of you have any experience with exhaust manifold wraps? Like the titanium ones? Worth it?


I just started using wraps on my FRS. Titanium lava rock one. Made a massive difference. On the ABA i doubt it'll make a huge difference, but any difference counts imo,


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rawk said:


> Quite possibly. Any local VW meet ups before then?
> 
> !


Not sure. I'll be at the 1552 booth. Maybe I can get you a spot there :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

rawk said:


> Oh yah, I just added one of those fancy 'lava' PTP Turbo blankets today. It made an enormous difference in under bay temps!
> 
> Any of you have any experience with exhaust manifold wraps? Like the titanium ones? Worth it?


Yes, why yes I do. I wrapped the equal length as well as the downpipe in DEI Titanium 2" wide wrap. I had to do the downpipe for fear of bursting my heater core coolant lines, which as you can tell, are literally less than .5" from the downpipe....And my temps are WAYYYYYYYYY down with that combined with a turbo blanket. I always recommend that.


----------



## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> Not sure. I'll be at the 1552 booth. Maybe I can get you a spot there :thumbup:


That would be great man, let me know! :thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MahTrek=] said:


> What's up guys, quick question for the cam/boost gurus in here. How much better does the 276wlc cam work for boost compared to the N/a 276? I found a good deal for the n/a version 276, but don't want to buy it if the 276wlc cam is THAT much better. Any thoughts?


it strengthens the midrange where with the n/a version it would be real dull due to overlap.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> it strengthens the midrange where with the n/a version it would be real dull due to overlap.


Alright I'm trying to keep up here. You're saying the n/a version 276 would have a dull midrange caused by too much overlap, ie: loosing boost out the exhaust valves because they are open too long? And the wlc version is better for FI because it prevents that with less lift and a wider lobe center? Am I in the ballpark?


----------



## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Had the car out this last weekend had Kevin doing some tuning track was not prepped well was able to be consistant at 11.4 but running the 1/4 at 128 mph, there is a mid 10 in this car as it sits, more testing this coming weekend with no lift shift getting added to the car this weekend


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Very nice man!


----------



## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Figured I'd finally post up my aba T..
95 obd1 128k 10k on turbo setup
C2 stg 2
440cc green tops
Ported polished built head
Arp studs 
Steel head spacer 
Walboro
Usrt long runner
6 puck act clutch 
A bunch of other stuff.. All built by me










Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

jcveedub said:


> Figured I'd finally post up my aba T..
> 95 obd1 128k 10k on turbo setup
> C2 stg 2
> 440cc green tops
> ...


Lookin good.


----------



## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

Any of you turbo guys having issues with warm start after reaching operating temp? My car won't restart until it's cooled off. I've already tested the crank/engine speed sensor, but not sure what else to check! 

Who's got some ideas? :thumbup:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

You can try unplugging the coolant temp sensor....but usually things that will keep it from starting (besides what you've mentioned checking) are: TPS, coil, ignition control module, fuel pump, and a couple relays.


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

PBWB said:


> You can try unplugging the coolant temp sensor....but usually things that will keep it from starting (besides what you've mentioned checking) are: TPS, coil, ignition control module, fuel pump, and a couple relays.


Thanks for the reply, I'll give some of these a try today. I'm about to install my Walbro inline, so that might help if it was fuel pump related. 

At least I figured out the overheating issue today. Wired my stupid electric radiator fan backwards..... doh! :banghead: :laugh:


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*grounds*

To add from PBWB also check or add grounds from body,tranny and head. My car was stubborn to start some times and a fiend told me to add some grounds since stock are 15-18 years old. Long story short my car starts fast and voltage is stable.check coolant sensor like it was recommended earlier.later Roderick.


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

PBWB said:


> You can try unplugging the coolant temp sensor....but usually things that will keep it from starting (besides what you've mentioned checking) are: TPS, coil, ignition control module, fuel pump, and a couple relays.


Looks like the Coolant temp sensor is the culprit. Will star once I disconnect it. Thanks for the tip! :thumbup::beer:


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

What plugs are you all running? I know we've covered this before just want to revisit and maybe get some new input

Im running bkr7e's gaped at about .027 right now and beru coil and factory wires. My beru was new in febuary and plug wires are about 2 years old

Issue im having is the car misfires under boost until it gets really hot. Like, it can reach operating temp and misfire....but if its at operating temp for a good 10 minutes it wont misfire at all anymore.

Im at about 16ish psi right now. Runs great otherwise and runs great once its warmed up. ECU is reading the misfires so its blowing spark out is my best guess.....i can gap it down more but im just perplexed as to why it is doing this

Edit: Also misfires if i turn the boost up regardless of how hot it gets.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Bkr7e plugs, 10mm Autotech wires, stock coil. 23psi on a GT3076R with no issues what so ever. 💪


----------



## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

Are any of you guys running a WOT box? Worth it, or just a gimmick? Would be nice to have some kind of launch control.


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rawk said:


> Are any of you guys running a WOT box? Worth it, or just a gimmick? Would be nice to have some kind of launch control.


its nice if you have slicks and go drag racing alot. Otherwise it's just to shoot flames lol


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> its nice if you have slicks and go drag racing alot. Otherwise it's just to shoot flames lol


Shooting flames can be pretty cool.... Haha! I figured it was kind of silly, but I liked the idea of the no-shift lift. :thumbup:


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Alright, decided to go with megasquirt. Figure if I get bored with it, I can go to an 16v head, or any other sort of nonsense with standalone. 

Question is, to go megasquirt 2, or microsquirt. MS2 can do boost control, were as the uS cannot. uS is weatherproof as well. And cheaper (unless I diy it, which is an option, but would hate to have to troubleshoot with doubts about how it was assembled/soldered)

Gonna keep the distributor for now, don't see the need to go waste spark.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> its nice if you have slicks and go drag racing alot. Otherwise it's just to shoot flames lol


Pretty much. I have one but it's going on the VR since the 8v car is getting lugtronic.

I can't wait to get some passes in next season! It's only been almost a decade (if you don't count my buddies vrt that I took a few years ago). And for the record I wasn't very good or had much seat time, so it oughta be fun. 😂


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

New engine bay shot. Just had the piping and the catch can powder coated.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*das*

It has been three-four years or more and every time I see your car it beings a grin 😄 to my face!.pwb it's has been 8 year's without visiting the drag strip and I'm anxious to get back.first the engine,then shaved bay and now full re spray of the full car,working one day aweek for a few hours seen like a never ending proyect.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

So I've decided to get a little bit more serious about getting my car boosted. A few questions for everyone. This is the turbo I'm working with. Garrett AiResearch T3 .42/.48 it's a bit small. I wish it had a .63 turbine housing but I'll work with what I got. Still need to crack it open to see what trim it is. Praying it's a 50 trim. Anyways pics for clicks 







And the car 



Setup will be:

3" Intake w/VR Maf Housing
eBay FMIC w/2.5" piping
SSQV BOV Recirc'd 
Aluminum SRI 
Ported ObdI Head
AT270 
AT Dual Valve Springs 
USRT LW Lifters
Stacked Head Gaskets
Cast Turbo Mani w/WG Port
Rebuilt Garrett T3 .42/.48 
Tial 38mm Wastegate w/Open Dump
3" Down Pipe
Modded Neuspeed Exhaust 
Green Giant 42# Injectors
C2 Stage 2 Software 
Walbro 255 Hpfp 

My trans setup (until it goes KaBOOM)

2Y 020 
Pelolok 80% Shim Kit
Super LW Flywheel
Triple Strapped 16v PP
Brand New Sachs 16v Clutch
Looking to get a bolt kit in there as well and throw my old .80 fifth :thumbup:


Hoping to run 20+psi with this setup. Does anyone have any power estimates for me? I'll be happy with anything as long as it rips good. I'd love to see 200whp or better. Thoughts? :beer:


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

On a healthy motor I can see 250-260whp with that setup, but you'll approach the tipping point of that trans.


----------



## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

Don't get hung-up on any particular boost number. Be careful of big torque spikes with that setup-- that is what kills the stock pistons-- around 300 wtq in the lower rpm range is right in the "danger zone".


----------



## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Can you guys please post up your fuel setups or maybe give some advice on what I should do.. I can't figure out whats going on here.

My pulsewidth/ duty cycle is spiking really high one the car starts to come into boost. Its maxing out the pulswidth on 550cc bosch injectors with a 4bar fpr.. something not adding up at all. I'm running the stock in tank pump with a walbro 255lph inline pump. I deleted the stock secondary pump. I had this setup on my car previously with my 42lb injectors and it ran well. I don't know what could be going on here. I'm thinking the pulsewidth is spiking because Im starving the injectors for fuel. 

130kpa nd my duty cycle and pulswidth are maxed out almost. :facepalm: If I floor the car it just leans out like crazy but the pulsewidth and duty cycle are still high.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

What engine management?


----------



## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

MS1 v2.2 extra


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> Praying it's a 50 trim. Anyways pics for clicks
> 
> [


Don't pray, measure and calculate. It's pretty easy to calculate the ratio

http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/wheel_trim

Your cold side seems a bit small to be a 50trim.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

PBWB, Mark Morris, & Wolfcastle. 

Thanks for the responses guys. I need to get some calipers to calculate trim. I will be doing that asap. I am a little worried about a really aggressive tq spike, hopefully my bottom end and trans hang in there til I go 02a. 

:beer:


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> So I've decided to get a little bit more serious about getting my car boosted. A few questions for everyone. This is the turbo I'm working with. Garrett AiResearch T3 .42/.48 it's a bit small. I wish it had a .63 turbine housing but I'll work with what I got. Still need to crack it open to see what trim it is. Praying it's a 50 trim. Anyways pics for clicks
> 
> 2Y 020
> Pelolok 80% Shim Kit
> ...


I run that exact same size turbo, but internal wastegate. 50trim T3 .42/.48. I run mine at 18psi, I'm usually conservative with what I say a car makes for power, but I tell people is makes about 200whp. (And it makes all of that and then some) 

Now I'm also on a 1.8 bottom end, so you already have that extra displacement, I can't see why 250whp would be out of the question. My low boost setting is 12psi and the high is 18psi, not even the same car on those 2 settings. Those turbos thrive under high boost. 

Pretty similar setup in the cylinder head too. I run a Schrick 272, and TT HD springs on a ported OBD2 head, with a 7000rpm redline. 2.5" on the boost pipe side, and 2.5" on the exhaust side. :thumbup:

And even though it's a "little turbo" in this thread, its still not what I would call a fast spooler. It does come in hard though if you go WOT at 4000rpm. Because of that, it is a bit frantic on the highway when cruising at a higher speed, that's when you notice it will spool fast, any bit of throttle and it insta-spools.

I also run a 020, I've wrecked some, but not a crazy amount of issues there. Best advice for extending 020 life., don't bounce the throttle if the tires are spinning (Shock is bad), and try not to let it diff out forever, that's what kills the spider gears.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

FYI I used to run the Turbosmart Eboost and Eboost2 and I've dialed multiple cars into a certain boost setting (whatever I or my friends who have had one wanted to run in each set point) so well there was never more than a .5psi spike under any driving condition. I really loved that controller.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

G60 Carat, loads of good info there. Very much appreciated :thumbup:

I'm okay with the turbo not spooling til a little later, a little bit less strain on the stock bottom end and 020 is fine by me! Glad to hear that you are happy with this sized turbo. I was having some doubts about its power capabilities.

Where the trans is concerned, hopefully the 80% shim kit will provide some support when I'm spinning. I know it's not a proper diff but better than nothing. We'll see how it goes. 

PBWB, Thanks for the advice on the boost controller. That's something I haven't looked too much into. I'll do some research on the Turbosmart Eboost :thumbup:


----------



## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

im going to be running an external wastegate... what has everyone doe with their piping coming off of theirs?

curious to see some pics. 

TIA


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

rhinoVdub said:


> im going to be running an external wastegate... what has everyone doe with their piping coming off of theirs?
> 
> curious to see some pics.
> 
> TIA


Open dump!


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Best boost controller bang for you buck BY FAR! I love mine:beer:




RPM, VehSpd, TPS inputs
Boost by gear
PWM output controls
3D Mapping

Just buy it. Price goes up at the end of the month! CLICK PHOTO


----------



## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

lol i have thought about that... trying to keep it as "daily friendly" as possible though...


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rhinoVdub said:


> lol i have thought about that... trying to keep it as "daily friendly" as possible though...


open dump is perfectly fine daily as it only opens when youre actually trying to go fast


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Mine is open dumped. I was hesitant to do it at first also, but well worth it to be open dump it sounds so good.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I think it sounds like garbage, but it's easier and better than having your plumbing crack.


----------



## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

PBWB said:


> I think it sounds like garbage, but it's easier and better than having your plumbing crack.


this is exactly where im at. im currently in the process of sorting out a downpipe and welding in a bunch of piping for the WG wasnt something i was wanting to do. 

has anyone run a bit longer pipe to try and muffle it?


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

My old turbo jetta had a very short dump tube, and the current car has a pretty long one, and it is noticeably quieter. You can get 1.5" flex pipes, but it's not worth the hassle IMO. Especially when you end up pulling the wastegate multiple times per year to facilitate other maintenance....so I just deal with the sound.


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

FYI Home Depot makes a stainless steel shower rod (like a handicapped grab bar in a bathroom) that works perfectly....nice and thick stainless and is dirt cheap.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

PBWB said:


> FYI Home Depot makes a stainless steel shower rod (like a handicapped grab bar in a bathroom) that works perfectly....nice and thick stainless and is dirt cheap.


Is there a correct size for a wg dump? Pipe ID, not length.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> Is there a correct size for a wg dump? Pipe ID, not length.


38mm port would be 1.5 inches


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> 38mm port would be 1.5 inches


Wow I'm retarded :what:


----------



## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So you all had to start talking about waste gate dumps? Mine just cracked........... Now I have to make a whole new downpipe.:facepalm: I'll be going back to open dump. Expect mine will be a lot longer. So it reaches the back of the subframe


----------



## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Ah, that's poopy. Was yours recirculated Tom?


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Daskoupe said:


> So you all had to start talking about waste gate dumps? Mine just cracked........... Now I have to make a whole new downpipe.:facepalm: I'll be going back to open dump. Expect mine will be a lot longer. So it reaches the back of the subframe


**** luck man! We jinxed ya. Sorry to hear. There's no problems with that long of a dump pipe? I also want a fairly quiet wg dump.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> **** luck man! We jinxed ya. Sorry to hear. There's no problems with that long of a dump pipe? I also want a fairly quiet wg dump.


Mine extends past my sub frame. Its not my daily driver....the car as a whole would bother me much more than the WG dump noise if it were my DD. I actually quite like the loudness of it though....my car looks like it was saved from a junkyard so it kind of ties it all together when i open it up and it sounds like the car is about to explode


----------



## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

PBWB said:


> My old turbo jetta had a very short dump tube, and the current car has a pretty long one, and it is noticeably quieter. You can get 1.5" flex pipes, but it's not worth the hassle IMO. Especially when you end up pulling the wastegate multiple times per year to facilitate other maintenance....so I just deal with the sound.


exactly what i was looking for man. 






Daskoupe said:


> So you all had to start talking about waste gate dumps? Mine just cracked........... Now I have to make a whole new downpipe.:facepalm: I'll be going back to open dump. Expect mine will be a lot longer. So it reaches the back of the subframe


why i have been thinking about not doing it. :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: sorry man.. that sucks. 




wolfcastle said:


> Mine extends past my sub frame. Its not my daily driver....the car as a whole would bother me much more than the WG dump noise if it were my DD. I actually quite like the loudness of it though....my car looks like it was saved from a junkyard so it kind of ties it all together when i open it up and it sounds like the car is about to explode


think this is what i am going to try and do.. down following the exhaust a couple feet so it can be removed easily on its own still.


----------



## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I plan on pointing mine at the ground and calling it good, seems like it's going to be louder than I thought. Oh well. Race car. 
We'll have to see how crazy it drives me. Guess who ordered their manifold today? :wave:


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> Guess who ordered their manifold today? :wave:


What did you go with? I have a spare t3 manifold by the way if anyone is interested. No provision for WG port its and ebay unit


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> What did you go with? I have a spare t3 manifold by the way if anyone is interested. No provision for WG port its and ebay unit







It's just an eBay joint. First one I've found that has an external wg port. $90 right now. I'll probably have it gasket matched and clean up any ugliness that could give me troubles down the line and see how she goes.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Wake up everybody. Let's talk about racecarz. I found this on eBay, does it look like a legit Tial? 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/TIAL-MVS-38mm...AND-AND-FLANGES-MV-S-/391297247991?nav=SEARCH

I've got the "too good to be true" vibe going here


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I dont trust anything on ebay. They make high flow fuel pumps that are clones that dont last...etc.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Aren't you selling an eBay mani?  just kidding, I know it's a different ballgame when it comes to moving parts. I am wary but the price is so tempting. 

What is your setup wolfcastle?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> Aren't you selling an eBay mani?  just kidding, I know it's a different ballgame when it comes to moving parts. I am wary but the price is so tempting.
> 
> What is your setup wolfcastle?


That tial is vbanded anyways it wouldn't bolt to your mani....im running a precision 38mm wg and it operates without problem


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

And I have a spare tial 38mm and an eBay one if anyone needs one.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> That tial is vbanded anyways it wouldn't bolt to your mani....im running a precision 38mm wg and it operates without problem


They sell a flange to vband adaptor, it's pretty short so the wg still wouldn't stick up very high. That's what I planned on using. I want to stick to Tial, Turbosmart, precision, etc. something reputable. But always looking for good deals.

PBWB, How much are you looking to get for your wg? The Tial..


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

The vbanded WG's are usually more expensive, plus the cost of an adapter....

I would just buy from a reputable vendor. Some people run cheap **** on their cars and never have a problem. I've never had such luck


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*blue thunder*

A fellow ABA turbo brotha! Is close to the 10ths with a 11.1 run!! Damn I wish I was that close to running mine,at least a 12.9-13.2 et.But still dascoupe if my father(Darthvader) voice!! Jajajaja.later guys


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> PBWB, How much are you looking to get for your wg? The Tial..


$120 shipped should do it.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> It's just an eBay joint. First one I've found that has an external wg port. $90 right now. I'll probably have it gasket matched and clean up any ugliness that could give me troubles down the line and see how she goes.


The ports on that manifold are severely small, which will kill spool time and top end. And the casting process probably isn't great, so you're definitely gonna get what you pay for with something like that. With an engine like the 8v, your bigger power adders are all related to air flow....intake mani, head port work, and a tubular exhaust manifold. I'll demonstrate this early next year when I finally get on the dyno. 2 weeks ago I was going to prove that concept and dyno the car but this happened the morning I was scheduled to hit the rollers, and now I'm rebuilding the car and moving forward over the winter. I'm hoping to drop at least 400 lbs off the car, get the trans built with one of my APTUNING gear sets, DSS axles, and install the big valve solid lifter head.


















Just save and spend the money on quality builds people....stop buying thing 2 or 3 times because you just "had to get it on the road". Been there, done that. It's not worth it one bit.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

for what its worth the atp manifold i got had worse fit and finish than the 90 dollar ebay manifold i got. I just had to run the atp one because it had external wg. I ended up having to port and gasket match it. Unfortunatley quality exhaust manifolds arennt really being made new anymore.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

We need more pics of set ups in this thread i think. Swapped in a different turbo Thursday, super happy with it.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rodperformance said:


> A fellow ABA turbo brotha! Is close to the 10ths with a 11.1 run!! Damn I wish I was that close to running mine,at least a 12.9-13.2 et.But still dascoupe if my father(Darthvader) voice!! Jajajaja.later guys



I feel that sentiment! Touching 12's next summer, or leaving the trans all over the track in the attempt. 
It's gonna be "Turnt up!"


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Thanks for the shout out rodperformance 

Was able to get into the 10s this year, Saturday last run was a 10.78 at 135 and earlier in the day went 10.92 at 133


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

PBWB said:


> The ports on that manifold are severely small, which will kill spool time and top end.
> .


That one has little round ports. Some of the budget cast ones are oval port. I used one of the latter and found it only needed a bit of porting to match my ported head. A couple of hours of grinding and I was done with it.

Obviously you could do more with a tubular set up, but the whole point of putting together a turbo 8v for me was budget constraints. 8v's are cheap to mod, cheap to replace, and pretty durable. If I was going to spend all kinds of money on having someone fabricate me a tubular manifold, it would only be for a 16v or 20v.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

What about the SPA turbo manifolds?
http://www.spaturbousa.com/vw-8v-mkiv-t3-manifold/p

















They also make a twin scroll


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> That one has little round ports. Some of the budget cast ones are oval port. I used one of the latter and found it only needed a bit of porting to match my ported head. A couple of hours of grinding and I was done with it.
> 
> Obviously you could do more with a tubular set up, but the whole point of putting together a turbo 8v for me was budget constraints. 8v's are cheap to mod, cheap to replace, and pretty durable. If I was going to spend all kinds of money on having someone fabricate me a tubular manifold, it would only be for a 16v or 20v.


Yea, the Oval ported ones would be the way to go....and mother EFF a 16v or 20v. Here's my tubular manifold.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

One of the reasons i didnt go with the SPA manifold was because they run a 3 bolt WG flange.


In other news, went to the track this weekend (road course). Had a blast playing around with the newer vw's. I was the only mk2 out there!

Blew up my turbo to manifold gasket. Going to order a MLS gasket, hopefully it doesnt decide to blow a chunk out of itself. 




My buddies e30


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I got the manifold in today umpkin: The casting looks good, I do see your point about the oval ports though. The big seller for me on the mani I bought was the wg port placement. I will have this mani ported as best it can be and see what I make with it. This is a budget build for me as well. My buddy builds sweet tubular manis like yours PBWB, he charges $650. Not a terrible price but more than I want to spend one one piece of my build at this time.

Wolfcastle, did you get a solid run in before blowing your turbo gasket?


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

good manifolds can be had cheap if you have the right person make it. I had severe fitment issues with my atp clone manifold and posted about it on facebook. guy named Charles Rohn down in florida offered to build me a stainless log manifold and got it done for under $300. I was super stoked about it. now I just gotta get everything else done and get this beast running!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I got a ton of laps in. 

upon urher inspecion...well i will just let he picures do the talking


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## rawk (Jul 29, 2000)

wolfcastle said:


> I got a ton of laps in.
> 
> upon urher inspecion...well i will just let he picures do the talking


Ouch! No bueno! :banghead:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I got it pretty damn hot at the track....I did three half hour sessions with half hour breaks in between....was north of 6k a lot. Used almost a full tank of gas! had a great time though

Even if Garret doesn't warranty that, a new hot side casting will cost about 140 on ebay, and im sure if i look i might find cheaper in the classifieds or something


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

DAMN! Never seen a turbine housing crack like that before. Turbo unsupported? DP have flex?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> DAMN! Never seen a turbine housing crack like that before. Turbo unsupported? DP have flex?


dp has flex. im running solid ass mounts...bfi stuff and a solid front.

could have hit the firewall and could have been heat or a combo of both..the cold side was really close to the wall and the tubo blanket was also squeezed between the wall and turbo.

going to replace the housing and beat the firewall in more and see what happens...


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> dp has flex. im running solid ass mounts...bfi stuff and a solid front.
> 
> could have hit the firewall and could have been heat or a combo of both..the cold side was really close to the wall and the tubo blanket was also squeezed between the wall and turbo.
> 
> going to replace the housing and beat the firewall in more and see what happens...


Do you have at least 3/8" of firewall clearance between turbo/firewall? If not, I bet you're hitting... that's been my experience.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Weld it and try again.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

No, no, no. Don't weld a cast turbine housing...you're asking for trouble. Housings are cheap enough, just swap it and move on.....the right way. Brace the turbo to the head while you're at it for good measure.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Yeah i was leaning on the hot side replacement option... will be taking an air hammer to the firewall at the very least.

A true Garrett will cost me about $240

There are also two options on Ebay...a generic cast and an SPA turbo which is prob no better. Both cost about 140. 

Leaning towards the Garrett but if i could save some coin it might be worth while....still havent decided. Kind of settled on retiring the car for the season so im in no rush to fix it


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Mock up 





I can't wait to mock all this up on the car  PBWB I'll be in contact soon about your wastegate for sale.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Ok. Do me a favor and mic that wastegate flange hole....that doesn't look like 38mm.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

PBWB said:


> Ok. Do me a favor and mic that wastegate flange hole....that doesn't look like 38mm.


Should've known you would notice  Good eye man. Its about a 1/4" small. I'm going to port it to get it as close as I can. There is quite a bit of material to work with. Should be okay


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I would oval those exhaust ports out too...gasket match it. It will take a while with just a dremel, but will be worth it. 

How does the flange to the turbo look on that manifold? Is it also considerably smaller than the turbo side? I ran into this issue with the ATP mani im running, took forever to port


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I will be having my buddy gasket match the runners and the wg port. The turbo flange actually looks really good. I expected to have to do some work on the manifold, after all it was $90. It's a budget build :wave:

Question for you guys. Any of you running a knock sensor spacer/bushing?


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Don't just port match....hog em out a little because when mounting these manifolds there is a little play, so it's better not to chance a restriction.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I know me and Daskoupe are running them mine is on the engine but not used since I'm lugtronic now, I would sell it cheap the knock sensor spacer that is


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I have a big sheet of 1/4" thick phoenalic plate that I make spacers with. I had one on the old turbo jetta but not on the current car. If I can't get the lugtronic on in time for next season I'm going to make one or two and throw em on, since it's currently on c2 software.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Really want to go Air to water. Some want my front mount setup?


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

I never run manifold to turbo gaskets-never had problems-no gasket means no possible broken gasket leaks-loosens up just retighten and boom fixed- if its a flst surface gaskets shiulded be needed. Been building turbo cars since the late 90's and i was learned to never use a gasket. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

can we talk catch cans for a minute...

is everyone running them? also if so, are you running vented cans? 

what are the advantages to venting to non venting cans..

TIA


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

I'll be running a catch can. From valve cover to vented catch can with steel wool medium, back to block. I was under the impression it needed to be ventilated to release crankcase pressure. I'm sure someone here has more information for ya :thumbup:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Yes you need the case to either vent to atmosphere or back to the intake tract. I wouldn't close the loop


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> Yes you need the case to either vent to atmosphere or back to the intake tract. I wouldn't close the loop


Closing that loop will cause a smoky engine


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

so vented catch can... what is everyone running?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Just get a generic ebay and you'll have to custom mount and run lines. Don't close the loop though because not only will pressure not be able to escape causing your motor to smoke and blow seals, there will be no where for the water vapors to escape and will be really bad for the motor.

Mine is actually currently just kind of...open dumped....no catch can at all. I have one i need to install....after my track day (30 minute sessions) there was a considerable amount of oil residue and evaporated...crap...all over my front sub frame where it dumps out to.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> Mine is actually currently just kind of...open dumped....no catch can at all.


Ahh, the 'ol earth dump. Classic :laugh::beer:

I'm currently running a hose from the valve cover to a Gatorade bottle lol I'm no better off


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

I have a dual port catch can but it doesn't have a baffle, so both inlets are at the top (naturally), and the blow right where the vent filter is, so you can see the smoke. This is not ideal at all, so I'm welding in some aluminum exhaust pipe that is cut down to 2 wedge shape pieces and welding them in to direct the flow downward.

Definitely DO NOT run a sealed pcv system.


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## GlhTroy (Aug 6, 2013)

I have the factory pcv to the block and the other hose goes to a Gatorade bottle, that has a vent hole(dime size) in the top below the cap. Not my vision of ideal but gets the job done and keeps residue from going everywhere.









Troy

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Don't feel bad....I used a deer park water bottle on my old turbo jetta a decade ago. 😂😂😂😂


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rhinoVdub said:


> so vented catch can... what is everyone running?


D1 spec straight off ebay, and a little breather filter from Summit Racing. I got this one because you can open it right up, and then I made a baffle system of sheet metal shelves, so the oil mist has to change directions a few times before it comes out the filter. Just need slow the flow down and give the fluid a chance to drop out of suspension. It works exceptionally well, and the whole setup was like $40. I have to drain the can about twice a summer, and it's mostly water, with a smidge of oil coming out at the end.:thumbup:


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

^^^ so you went from valve cover to can to crank case with a breather on top of the can? Am I seeing that correctly?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

I ran off the valve cover to a catch can and off the block to the same catch can.
Then the catch can I vented with a filter, and later in life I vented it to the ground via tube.
This can only had steel fibers in it, it was not the best.

My Evo, I run 2 off the valve cover (one is a PCV) to a catch can with a filter element, then that catch can gets routed back into my intake. I made this system myself, it is a closed and sealed system, the intake puts a vacuum on the system.
I want to redesign the catch can into a 2 or 3 filter system, where basically it gets filtered 2 or 3 times through filter elements.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

mine looks like this..

-10 line from BBM blockoff plate with Y connector directing all to a large catch can seen on right.









Non-cluttered view of the BBM blockoff plate.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

rhinoVdub said:


> ^^^ so you went from valve cover to can to crank case with a breather on top of the can? Am I seeing that correctly?


Nope. I have a 1.8 bottom end, so there is only the valve cover breather on mine. You would have to tee the bottom and top together and then run into the catch can. Mine just goes valve cover to can, with the can vented to atmosphere. There is some baffles inside the can, with no baffles it still works but makes a mess much like just sticking a breather filter directly on the valve cover does.

I would never tie back into the intake on any performance minded build. Been there, done that, it was terrible. The catch can I have has a clear tube down the side to monitor how full it is. This is also a window into your bottom ends health. If all of a sudden it's getting all slobbery around the filter (more breather mist than the baffles can handle) and the can is filling up very fast, you probably hurt the bottom end.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

About returning it.

Since my block has a small hole in for supercharger oil return, I debated tieing the catch can back into the sump. A friend advised me this is actually not a great plan, since most of the breather mist is moisture trapped in the sump. That turned out to be exactly right, my catch can is usually catching mostly water (90-95%), with minimal oil in it.

I know factory BMW's run an oil separator, I've replaced a few of them since they tend to gum up. At the time I never gave much consideration to what they did, but now I realize they separate moisture, which is directed to the intake side, and oil, which is fed directly down the dipstick tube. How it works exactly , I have no idea!


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

thanks for the feedback guys. also ended up watching a couple youtube vids and i picked up an ebay can that i will slightly modify.. 

running both lines from crank case and valve cover to the can then venting it....

think im going to try and mount the can on the passenger side of the bay to cut down on bay clutter.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Looking for some advice from the guys here who have been there and done that. I currently have a Garrett Airesearch T3 .42/.48 (still don't know trim) and I am having serious doubts about it being the right turbo for me. From everything I've read it will spool super early, have a very aggressive torque spike, and run out of steam early. I'm looking for something that will roll into boost a little smoother, and push the c2 stage 2 software to its limit (near 300whp). 

I'm looking for a T3 flanged turbo that fits this profile. Any advice here guys? 
I've been looking at a Garrett T3 60-1 .70 compressor housing, .63 turbine housing, 4" inet, 2.5" 4 bolt exhaust side...plus it's only $850 

Thoughts? Thanks fellas :beer:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

First off, you'd be hard pressed to get a T3 to make 300whp. Secondly, before the deer incident my car was running 23psi on the 3076R with pretty stable AFRs, and it was undoubtedly more than 300whp, so I'd say that's not the limit of the c2 software. Thirdly, it all depends on what you have done and whether those mods compliment eachother, but IMO a T3 super 60 making 300whp is like getting a k04 to make 300whp on a 1.8t. Is it possible? Sure. Is it likely? Not really. For reference, I started with a t3/t04b turbo and the car never really made power until I put the t3/t04e 57 trim on it (even with the stock 01m 4 spd auto 😂😂😂), and it wasn't until that point that it made 258whp @ 15psi with the stock intake mani and no water meth.

I think you'll have to go bigger, but you can pick up brand new journal bearing precision turbos for around that price point that will get the job done, but you'll have to sacrifice some spool time.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

The 60-1 I was looking at has a t04s compressor housing, does that make it a t3/t4 hybrid? Do you know what kind of power a turbo this size is capable of? Here's the link 
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-048

Thanks for the input Apple, I wasn't trying to say c2 management can't make over 300, I was just going off what their website says. I listed my setup a few pages back but it's pretty much
SRI
FMIC
Ported/built obdI head
AT270 (for now)
Ported Cast mani
Turbo ??
Tial 38mm
3" downpipe
Neuspeed exhaust (eventually mbs 3")
And of course c2 stage 2 with all the supportive junk. 

Do you have any turbo recommendations that can put me in the 280+whp range? 
Much appreciated :beer:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> Looking for some advice from the guys here who have been there and done that. I currently have a Garrett Airesearch T3 .42/.48 (still don't know trim) and I am having serious doubts about it being the right turbo for me. From everything I've read it will spool super early, have a very aggressive torque spike, and run out of steam early. I'm looking for something that will roll into boost a little smoother, and push the c2 stage 2 software to its limit (near 300whp).
> 
> I'm looking for a T3 flanged turbo that fits this profile. Any advice here guys?
> I've been looking at a Garrett T3 60-1 .70 compressor housing, .63 turbine housing, 4" inet, 2.5" 4 bolt exhaust side...plus it's only $850
> ...



The turbine side is probably most crucial here. If you're looking for 300+ whp, nothing under a .63 AR turbine, and the biggest least restrictive exhaust you can do.

That 60-1 will do the trick, and yeah it's a T3/T4. Technically you can do 300whp on a straight T3 but it would have to be a T3 60 trim or Super 60, with a .63 turbine, and preferably a STGIII turbine wheel. (exactly like the 60-1 you linked to. It's a STGIII wheel in .63 housing, most aftermarket Garretts seem to use these STGIII wheels, OEM stuff mostly uses the STGI wheels)

There is a whole gamut of Garretts that can do it too for the same price, like the T3/T4 50 trim for $750, but the the 60 series compressor (60-1,62-1) is physically smaller and designed for those tight space applications, so maybe it is the right _fit_  

Something in that design makes them not love high boost applications as much as the compressor designs like the T4E/T04E.
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/performance/products/turbochargers/60-series


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

G60 Carat, thank you for the reply! Loads of good info :thumbup: I think I'll be selling my little Garrett in favor of that 60-1. i know daskoupe used to run one, maybe he'll chime in. :beer:


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Considering you want a smoother powerband, I'd recommend the T3/T04e 50 trim with the .63 a/r turbine housing, and if you want, the 4" anti-surge inlet. Atp has them within your budget and you'll have room to grow should you want more power down the road (which you likely will). It's a stage 3 wheel as well.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Sorry for the 1000 questions guys, all this info is much appreciated. PBWB, How does the T3/T04e 50 trim stack up the the 60-1 in terms of spool and power output? Also, what do you mean by I would have room to grow?


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> Looking for some advice from the guys here who have been there and done that. I currently have a Garrett Airesearch T3 .42/.48 (still don't know trim) and I am having serious doubts about it being the right turbo for me. From everything I've read it will spool super early, have a very aggressive torque spike, and run out of steam early. I'm looking for something that will roll into boost a little smoother, and push the c2 stage 2 software to its limit (near 300whp).
> 
> I'm looking for a T3 flanged turbo that fits this profile. Any advice here guys?
> I've been looking at a Garrett T3 60-1 .70 compressor housing, .63 turbine housing, 4" inet, 2.5" 4 bolt exhaust side...plus it's only $850
> ...



I made a little over 400 whp on a .63 T3 60-1. I like the turbo for an old-school budget turbo. It gets unhappy over about 28 psi of boost, but not a bad choice for moderate power goals.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

MahTrek=] said:


> Sorry for the 1000 questions guys, all this info is much appreciated. PBWB, How does the T3/T04e 50 trim stack up the the 60-1 in terms of spool and power output? Also, what do you mean by I would have room to grow?


You'll have to learn to read compressor maps if you don't already know how to.....that will give you everything you need to know about their efficiency ranges and airflow capabilities. But I meant that you'd have room to grow as in you'll be able to make that 300whp mark, and have a little room to turn the boost up before you start blowing hot air.

Weren't you the one who was trying to stay with as small of a turbo as possible because you were doing some auto-x stuff and favored responsiveness? I'm just trying to keep from confusing everyone because my memory is crap. lol


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PBWB said:


> Considering you want a smoother powerband, I'd recommend the T3/T04e 50 trim with the .63 a/r turbine housing, and if you want, the 4" anti-surge inlet. Atp has them within your budget and you'll have room to grow should you want more power down the road (which you likely will). It's a stage 3 wheel as well.


I'd agree with this.

The ABA has flow issues for big power, its normally over came by forcing a lot of air with a big turbo.
A super 60 would be extremely difficult to hit 300whp without some serious head work, intake, and exhaust combo, but its possible.
If you want to actually hit 300whp you'll need .63 exhaust, a .48 will give more torque than you could ever use before 3rd gear < 4k rpm


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Thanks for chiming in GtiJoeJoe, however I think there is a small misunderstanding. I'm not looking at a super 60. Sorry if I was unclear on that! A super 60 is a straight T3 with a t3 compressor housing that flows 33lb/min. The 60-1 is a T3 with a t04b wheel and t04s .70 compressor housing. Flows 61lb/min. Making it a t3/t4 hybrid. (From what I can find on the internet lol) it still uses the t3 .63 turbine housing though :thumbup:

I did some research and it looks like the 60-1 might be on the big side, but will make the power I'm looking for.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

PBWB said:


> You'll have to learn to read compressor maps if you don't already know how to.....that will give you everything you need to know about their efficiency ranges and airflow capabilities. But I meant that you'd have room to grow as in you'll be able to make that 300whp mark, and have a little room to turn the boost up before you start blowing hot air.
> 
> Weren't you the one who was trying to stay with as small of a turbo as possible because you were doing some auto-x stuff and favored responsiveness? I'm just trying to keep from confusing everyone because my memory is crap. lol


Sorry man I just saw this. I've been reading and learning as much I can about compressor maps and how different housings and wheels affect spool and power etc. :thumbup: and no that was not me, I don't auto cross or have any plans to. I'm just looking to make some respectable and affordable power with this little 8v. 

Mark thanks for your input as well. The 60-1 is looking like it's gonna fit my needs, I'd be happy with anything near 300


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Why not just use the turbo you have for now, and put that money towards some other upgrade like water/meth, SRI or something else? See how you like it and then take some time to do the research on what turbo you want to run

As long as you're staying 4bolt exhaust housing you will be able to easily swap to a 50 trim with a .63 later down the road.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Sound advice! However I already have an SRI. The reason I'm doing all this research ahead of time is because my .42/.48 needs a rebuild. I don't want to put the money into it just to swap it out shortly after. I know rebuild kits can be had for cheap, but still. With my setup and a 60-1 turbo I should be more than happy with the power. The next step after getting everything assembled and running will be an 02j, so I'd rather put it together the way I want it, within my budget, the first time around :thumbup:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

like Carat mentioned, its mostly your turbine (exhaust) wheel that makes the difference between these turbos. I would honestly look at the 50 trim with a T4e cold side and a .63 AR. Both turbo's have the same exhaust wheel. The larger compressor wheel i don't feel like it would make any difference. 

Also, would be running all that air through a 3" maf into the much larger 60-1 compressor housing. Just doesn't really make sense to me. I mean sure, if you get a deal on a 60-1, go for it, but new for new and dollar for dollar 50 trim all day


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Oh and just to clarify on that T3 Super 60, it was just for discussion purposes that one tecnically could make 300whp on a straight T3 turbo.

But that said I would never, EVER, reccomend that as the turbo for that goal. If you said 200whp, then yes for sure go for it.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

G60 carat thanks for clearing that up. Wolfcastle, you talking about something like this? 
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-060&Category_Code=TBO

Or what about a 57 trim like so? 
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-038

There's so many choices. Overall, this is my weekend car. I still would like to enjoy driving it around town. I don't mind some lag. But I don't want to reach peak boost at 5500 either. I'm looking for something that will spool reasonably quickly, but still have the capability for 300(ish)whp with my setup.


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

MahTrek=] said:


> G60 carat thanks for clearing that up. Wolfcastle, you talking about something like this?
> http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-060&Category_Code=TBO
> 
> Or what about a 57 trim like so?
> ...


I've seen numerous crossflow setups with 57 trim turbos and they all surged badly at a certain point in the boost range. For this reason I would not recommend that turbo.

If you have the budget, the newer Precision turbos cannot be beat for power vs size (and spool). Look at their turbos between 50mm and 58mm inducer on the compressor wheel.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Yep, 50 trim with a .48 AR will spool around 4000 rpm. Unsure of a .63. That first one you linked is the exact turbo im running. Talk to some people who run the .63 wheel and when it spools etc.... May have been mentioned before but you may want to consider running an aggressive cam as well with the larger hot side since your power delivery will come on later.

Also, i would look at this turbo

http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_16&products_id=609


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

I'm running the precision t3/t4 with a 60 trim compressor wheel an .63 exhaust and it reaches full boost (23-26 depending on temp) by about 4500-4700 rpm. Pulls like crazy up top tho, pretty much no tapering off of boost. 


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> Yep, 50 trim with a .48 AR will spool around 4000 rpm. Unsure of a .63. That first one you linked is the exact turbo im running. Talk to some people who run the .63 wheel and when it spools etc.... May have been mentioned before but you may want to consider running an aggressive cam as well with the larger hot side since your power delivery will come on later.
> 
> Also, i would look at this turbo
> 
> http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_16&products_id=609


I just realized that's the exact same one I have bookmarked from Treadstone. Have to purchase, install, and then figure out how to tune standalone well before that can happen. So easy as 1-2-3 really. :banghead:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2304


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Nice!

I finally ordered my new hotside casting since cracking mine last month. Just went with an Ebay unit for 140 bucks. YOLO


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

So adding to what Mark and everyone else said, if you look at compressor maps, the 50 trim is far more efficient in the mid - flow ranges than the 57 trim. I don't honestly know why anyone in their right mind would choose the 57 trim over the 50 trim.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

And I have a spare garrett t3 turbine housing with a 3" vband welded to it (.63 a/r) if anyone needs one.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1659530454331990&id=100008251532509


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## rhinoVdub (Nov 24, 2010)

if anyone is needing to run a block off or catch can you will need one of these. i have an extra one that BFI sent me. 

lemme know if anyone is needing it. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/mk3bfi20caca.html


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

I've always had a garret 57 trim. I love to hate it, but it's a quality turbo. I have had it for over 7 years and it's been strong. Very laggy, and to confirm what mark said, I've always had problems with surging. My next turbo is going to be something along the lines of a garret gt28rs. Something small that spools early, something with ball bearings, and something with a vband


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

i second that. wish i had gone gt series the first time around.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> i second that. wish i had gone gt series the first time around.


On ATP website they show they can put pretty much any turbine side onto a GT28 or GT30 turbo. 

I don't fully understand that, I mean if it's a GT28, with a T3 turbine side, is it still a GT28? Doesn't that make it a GT30 now?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-003&Category_Code=GRT


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

By that they just mean the size/style of the housing at the inlet side of the turbine.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

The gt30 still has a larger exhaust turbine. if my turbo broke i;d be doing some research into which GT series was right for me! You can get a 4 bolt gt28 or gt30 with a .63 and would prob spool the same or faster than a journal bearing .48 ar and hit way harder


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> I've always had a garret 57 trim. I love to hate it, but it's a quality turbo. I have had it for over 7 years and it's been strong. Very laggy, and to confirm what mark said, I've always had problems with surging. My next turbo is going to be something along the lines of a garret gt28rs. Something small that spools early, something with ball bearings, and something with a vband


Borg Warner EFR 6258


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

So started her up for the first time in about a month since the track day...i think there may be something wrong with the bottom end.

It is not smoking at all from what i can tell but i forgot to tighten down my crankcase vent hose on the block and it popped off. When i got back to my garage my crankcase blew a pretty substantial snot rocket of oil all over the radiator, hood etc. Not sure if i should be alarmed yet...wouldn't it smoke if i were getting enough blow by to do something like that?


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## LiBlackRabbit (Oct 8, 2003)

*USRT 8V Manifold*

Don't know if everyone has seen this yet:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7191815-***USRT-Presents-MK4-8v-K03-Turbo-Kit***


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> So started her up for the first time in about a month since the track day...i think there may be something wrong with the bottom end.
> 
> It is not smoking at all from what i can tell but i forgot to tighten down my crankcase vent hose on the block and it popped off. When i got back to my garage my crankcase blew a pretty substantial snot rocket of oil all over the radiator, hood etc. Not sure if i should be alarmed yet...wouldn't it smoke if i were getting enough blow by to do something like that?


If you blew some pistons you would be getting some serious smoke out of the breather and some poor compression.

Check the compression.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

each cyl is about 5 to 15 psi below baseline...but ambient temps are way cooler than when i did it this summer for comparison.

why would oil just spray out of the crankcase like that...i mean...even with the vent hose blown off of the port it shouldnt have sprayed out like that
.

i dont know. i just blocket it off for now and goint to vent just the valve cover


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> each cyl is about 5 to 15 psi below baseline...but ambient temps are way cooler than when i did it this summer for comparison.
> 
> why would oil just spray out of the crankcase like that...i mean...even with the vent hose blown off of the port it shouldnt have sprayed out like that
> .
> ...


Fractured ringlands, can allow the car to run at like 90% it's potentional. But they pinch the rings and stop them from floating on the pistons. This causes an ass pile of compression pressure to go down into the crankcase and pumps it all out the breather. Put your breather hose in a clear coke bottle or something and go rip around for 10-15mins. If it has an inch or more of oil in the bottom you have an issue. (depends how many pistons you fractured too, might only be one, but usually it's all 4  )

These are 1.8 8v not ABA, but you get the gist.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

LiBlackRabbit said:


> Don't know if everyone has seen this yet:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7191815-***USRT-Presents-MK4-8v-K03-Turbo-Kit***


I would seriously think about a K04. I mean in my head I want a T3/T4 50trim next, but there is a part of me that misses my wife's 1.8t Beetle, it had such fantastic response, it was a monster away from the lights. :thumbup:

Of course it had nothing after first gear when the revs were up....


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> I would seriously think about a K04. I mean in my head I want a T3/T4 50trim next, but there is a part of me that misses my wife's 1.8t Beetle, it had such fantastic response, it was a monster away from the lights. :thumbup:
> 
> Of course it had nothing after first gear when the revs were up....


I am looking forward to dyno logs from these setups. Would be a great road course/autocross turbo

We should start some bets on what kind of power people can squeeze out of basic 440 injector files with no w/m. Basic setup/tune. Im betting k03 will be right around 200whp and k04 will be like 220-230 range


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

wolfcastle said:


> I am looking forward to dyno logs from these setups. Would be a great road course/autocross turbo
> 
> We should start some bets on what kind of power people can squeeze out of basic 440 injector files with no w/m. Basic setup/tune. Im betting k03 will be right around 200whp and k04 will be like 220-230 range


I think one of those fancy K04 with billet insides could hit the power levels we want


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> Yep, 50 trim with a .48 AR will spool around 4000 rpm. Unsure of a .63. That first one you linked is the exact turbo im running. Talk to some people who run the .63 wheel and when it spools etc.... May have been mentioned before but you may want to consider running an aggressive cam as well with the larger hot side since your power delivery will come on later.
> 
> Also, i would look at this turbo
> 
> http://pagparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_16&products_id=609


uhhh no

The .48 will spool around 3500 to 20psi and the .63 4k-4200


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Just some Wednesday morning chatter.

Hypothetically speaking, what does it take to get an ABA to make an honest 300hp+ at the flywheel (looking for about 275whp). I mean turbo sizing, injectors, cam, etc. Just mulling this around in my brain this morning. :beer:


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

275 whp at what psi? Im at 297 whp with a 15psi waste gate spring, but produces a steady 16.4 psi..with a .57 trim ( many years ago with the great surge debate of the .57 trim, I got it from evans tuning<Honda shop> for 519 shipped, I couldn't beat the price at the time) I haven't played with my electronic boost controller since I over boosted many years ago, +2mm valves, seat work, ect got expensive having to do it twice, so it stays at waste gate. hell, 3rd gear peels..


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

275whp is basically a C2 or UM 42# program turbo kit with a T3/T04e bolted on with no inline fuel pump, a headspacer or stacked gaskets, and a cam running 20psi. Literally, THAT'S IT.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

nothing but smiles from the tt 276 wlc.


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## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

i can't wait for the 288 cam


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

What is the deal with the 57 trim? Why do people have so many surge problems with them? Is this also encountered with the t3/t4e 50 trim? Or 60 trim for that matter?


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## extremy (Dec 5, 2005)

I know, it`s not a 2.0L, but it has a ABA head, so I tought lets share.

Engine: 
1.8 PG engine with a ported ABA X-flow cylinder head
ARP Undercut Head Studs (204-4701)
Garrett T28 turbo
Kinugawa wastegate
Autotech 270 Hydro Lifter Cam
Autotech HD valve spring set
Autotech Lightweight Intermediate Shaft Pulley
Autotech Adj Alloy Timing Gear 
Autotech Lightweight Hydraulic Lifter 
BBM fuel rail
Holley fuel pressure regulator
Genesis II 500cc "FOGGER" injectors
Bosch 044 fuel pump
Bar-Tek high flow check valve (6AN)
Submerged 044 surge tank
Stainless tubing fuel lines
Braided lines with Torques.uk fittings
ABF alternator + bracket
Silicone boost and coolant hoses
Mikalor t-bolt hose clamps
Custom intake (nubworks cnc flanges)
VR6 throttle body
Custom SS 3" downpipe
Forge dumpvalve
Golf G60 intercooler
Golf G60 radiator
Double slim radiator fans
Green performance air filter
Epytec billet front engine mount

Electronics:
Link+ v10 ecu
Custom engine loom with all braided sleeving
Zeitronix ZT-2 wide-band lambda (data logger)
MAC 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA boost control solenoid
Auberins 5bar map sensor (1/8 NPT)
Auberins 5bar fuel pressure sensor (1/8 NPT)
Zeitronix multi LCD Display
Kinugawa 3.5bar map sensor (for data logger)
Odyssey PC680 Racing battery

As soon as I hit the Dyno, I will share the result ;-)


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

extremy said:


> I know, it`s not a 2.0L, but it has a ABA head, so I thought lets share.


Was it hard to get an ABA head in the Netherlands? I was once told it was a very rare engine in Europe, and pretty much a North American thing.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Do you think I can get around the stacked headgaskets with water injection? Motor has lots of miles, and really don't want to open it up.


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## extremy (Dec 5, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> Was it hard to get an ABA head in the Netherlands? I was once told it was a very rare engine in Europe, and pretty much a North American thing.


Yes you're absolutely right. They're pretty rare over here. Luckily I now even have a spare one. 
Looking back, I should have gone for a 20vt as they are widely available and much more aftermarket parts are available for that engine over here. 
For the 8v I had to purchase almost everything in the states which means paying ridiculous amounts of import dutys and shipping costs.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

jettatech said:


> nothing but smiles from the tt 276 wlc.


 thats exactly why i had it made:beer:



fastrabbit said:


> i can't wait for the 288 cam


 eehhhh...that cam is gonna be ALL topend...the overlap in it isnt good


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MahTrek=] said:


> What is the deal with the 57 trim? Why do people have so many surge problems with them? Is this also encountered with the t3/t4e 50 trim? Or 60 trim for that matter?


****ty wheel design.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

monoaural said:


> Do you think I can get around the stacked headgaskets with water injection? Motor has lots of miles, and really don't want to open it up.


maybe by a pound or 2...i wouldn't push it. My friend did this and pushed his to like 11-12psi but he didn't run those levels consistently, only at the 1/4mi track ect. Eventually he just went with a spaced setup and 20psi

And no Mahtrek, no surging issues with a 50trim


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> uhhh no
> 
> The .48 will spool around 3500 to 20psi and the .63 4k-4200


I believe my results are skewed a bit since i live in Colorado. My .48 spools right at 4k.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Quintin, wolfcastle 

Thanks :beer:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> I believe my results are skewed a bit since i live in Colorado. My .48 spools right at 4k.


heh...oh yea...carry on! :laugh::beer:


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

monoaural said:


> Do you think I can get around the stacked headgaskets with water injection? Motor has lots of miles, and really don't want to open it up.


I ran stock compression all summer, usual boost of 8-10psi on a small turbo. But i have seen it creep up to 15psi on long pulls. My bottom end also probably has 300k miles or more. I'm on a stage 1 tune though so it's meant for the stock compression.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

1slowVW said:


> I ran stock compression all summer, usual boost of 8-10psi on a small turbo. But i have seen it creep up to 15psi on long pulls. My bottom end also probably has 300k miles or more. I'm on a stage 1 tune though so it's meant for the stock compression.


needs more wastegate...


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Quinton what if someone was to have a 288 wlc made 😀


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

Then convert to a solid lifter head as I did.... 😉


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

wolfcastle said:


> each cyl is about 5 to 15 psi below baseline...but ambient temps are way cooler than when i did it this summer for comparison.
> 
> why would oil just spray out of the crankcase like that...i mean...even with the vent hose blown off of the port it shouldnt have sprayed out like that
> .
> ...


i have since hooked up a catch bottle and no oil made its way into if after a 30 minute drive. Snow finally melted....

funny tho, i brake bosted 3rd for the hell of it and when i let off it did an epic 3rd gear burnout through the whole gear. damn cold streets haha


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rabbitchaser said:


> Quinton what if someone was to have a 288 wlc made 😀


then it would be better, but still, that cam is still gonna have a good amount of overlap no matter how much you spread the LSAs. :beer:


I found the 276 was the longest duration i could go with in that regard. But hell try it, i'd be interested in the results.:beer: :thumbup:


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Results are in my car I have been running one in the new build we will have dyno numbers in January


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

well i think what quintin is trying to say is that there is more then hp to an upgrade. where is the hp and tq available and what is the overall drive-ability and use of the vehicle. sometimes less is more


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Well my car is about go and .25mile times so it's about setting it up for those goals. My car would not be fun on the street big turbo that finally hits around 5500rpm, among other reasons


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

rommeldawg said:


> well i think what quintin is trying to say is that there is more then hp to an upgrade. where is the hp and tq available and what is the overall drive-ability and use of the vehicle. sometimes less is more


Like anything, it is all about the overall combo and intended goals/ use.

It's not just cam specs or turbo. There are a lot of variables and no set "rules"-- horses for courses. Blanket statements are just that-- they are gross over-generalizations. Nothing makes me more crazy than questions like "what turbo should I put on my car?", "what cam should I run?", "xxx cam is too big for a turbo car.", etc with no other information.

I'll step off my soapbox now, lol.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Mark Morris said:


> Like anything, it is all about the overall combo and intended goals/ use.
> 
> It's not just cam specs or turbo. There are a lot of variables and no set "rules"-- horses for courses. Blanket statements are just that-- they are gross over-generalizations. Nothing makes me more crazy than questions like "what turbo should I put on my car?", "what cam should I run?", "xxx cam is too big for a turbo car.", etc with no other information.
> 
> I'll step off my soapbox now, lol.


agreed:beer: *throws soapbox in dumpster* :laugh:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Can anyone explain this??

When my car reaches temp, if i give it full throttle it will misfire on all 4 cyl.

I wait 10-15 seconds, floor it again, and no more misfires. It has always done this, what gives?

Also, currently cannot go above about 17psi or it misfires. I've tried a ton of different gaps, im at about .026 right now. I even just replaced the wires with auto tech wires, still drives the exact same and brk7e's. Ive tried 2 different sets of these

Only thing i can think of is the coil, but it is less than a year old with few miles on it since i dont drive this car all the time. It is a Beru.

Im leaning towards a new MSD blaster but i don't want to throw my money in the trash again if it doesn't change any of the drive ability?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

So, asking for more opinions, OEM junkyard intercooler, or ebay special? Currently there is a Saab 93 HOT at the junkyard, which has a crossflow intercooler vs the basic one with hoses on the same side. 

Almost ready to start throwing this thing together. 
Garett t3/t4 50 trim
Ebay manifold with external wastegate flange
Tial 38mm wastegate
OBD1 42 lb chip(not sure if it is low compression or high compression)
Stock obd1 motor with 200k
9 lb flywheel with ECS stage one clutch

Gonna do a 3in downpipe, and run it off of the .5 bar wastegate spring at start. Once that gets boring, I am gonna do a diy water injection, and see how high I can push it with that. Hoping to get to 15ish lbs, and a good amount over 200 to the wheels.
Still needs to be decided: Intercooler, piping. There is a AEG manifold at the junkyard too, which may make piping better/different.

All going in this: (Thankfully, replacing the rear shocks fixed the reverse rake shown in this picture)


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I've had issues with misfiring this year (if you search this thread for sparkplug gap you will find my posts). Old guys call it spark blow out, but I believe it's actually too much combustion pressure for the stored coil energy you have to jump the size of the gap you want. So the options are to reduce the size of the gap, increase the stored energy (higher voltage coil, or Coil on plug) or reduce the effective compression (ummm nope) But don't be afraid to drop that gap down even more, it's not ideal, but it's much better if it's firing then if it's not firing at all. 

But some things can help just to make sure it's not something else screwing with you. Make sure there is a really good ground from battery negative right to the cylinder head. Then relay the coil, old VW wiring is....well, it's old VW wiring. So again use a reasonable gauge wire, go battery +12v to your relay and out to the coil +, just use the coils original power wire to trigger your relay. The coil will see +14v when running, my OEM coil wire was a thinner gauge and showing over a 1v drop (reading high 12's with car running) compared to actual battery voltage. 

If the coil is potted you can mount it anyways, but if it's not (Oil filled, like MSD Blaster & Blaster 2 red can) make sure the coil is mounted up and down, not sideways or they will overheat.

That said I've went from a OEM MK2 coil to a MSD blaster 2 and had same results as factory, a few years went past and then this summer I has spark blow out again, so I put in my 30 year old OEM coil and it went away. So I'm personally not that impressed with the Blaster 2.

Try borrowing a known good old OEM VW coil, I know it's cliche but "they just don't make 'em like they used too!"


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

monoaural said:


> So, asking for more opinions, OEM junkyard intercooler, or ebay special? Currently there is a Saab 93 HOT at the junkyard, which has a crossflow intercooler vs the basic one with hoses on the same side. ]


Ebay intercoolers are the one thing that seem to work just fine. Plus they come in any damn size you could possibly need. :thumbup:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

thanks carat. im going to to test it out wih my buddies multimeter....somethings not right


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

monoaural said:


> So, asking for more opinions, OEM junkyard intercooler, or ebay special? Currently there is a Saab 93 HOT at the junkyard, which has a crossflow intercooler vs the basic one with hoses on the same side.
> 
> Almost ready to start throwing this thing together.
> Garett t3/t4 50 trim
> ...


Treadstone TR6 or TR8.

I had an ebay cxracing 26x2.5x6 special and when i swapped to the larger Treadstone TR8, i noticed not only better cooling but better spool as well. Do it right the first time:beer:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Treadstone TR6 or TR8.
> 
> I had an ebay cxracing 26x2.5x6 special and when i swapped to the larger Treadstone TR8, i noticed not only better cooling but better spool as well. Do it right the first time:beer:












I mean you do make the fast cars, I'm just not sure what the science is behind that? Bar & Plate vs. Tube & Fin? Was the treadstone noticeably heavier? Some sort of funky internal design?

I know tons of people that run those eBay IC's and they perform remarkably well for what little they cost. Is a Treadstone better.....yeah sure why not, it must be or why would it cost more? I would have to assume the over all quality like end tank welds etc. is going to be top notch. I'd actually really like to see somebody do a scientific test on 2 IC's the same size.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> I mean you do make the fast cars, I'm just not sure what the science is behind that? Bar & Plate vs. Tube & Fin? Was the treadstone noticeably heavier? Some sort of funky internal design?
> 
> I know tons of people that run those eBay IC's and they perform remarkably well for what little they cost. Is a Treadstone better.....yeah sure why not, it must be or why would it cost more? I would have to assume the over all quality like end tank welds etc. is going to be top notch. I'd actually really like to see somebody do a scientific test on 2 IC's the same size.


Dude it was so long ago. I still have the logs laying around tho. My guess was less restriction led to better boost response. More surface area led to better cooling. BOOM #SCIENCE


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

The lessening of pressure drop will also add to the effect of making more power (because it is for more than one reason), especially if your boost controller is using a signal off the compressor housing instead of post-throttle body or post-intercooler. What I mean is that let's say you run 15psi indicated with your boost controller tapped into the comp housing (or any source pre-intercooler) and with a crappy intercooler. The pressure actually entering the manifold is actually 11psi (for arguements sake). Once you upgrade the intercooler, your pressure drop numbers will become lower, alleviating some of the restriction, and with an otherwise unchanged setup, the manifold now sees 13psi. Your boost controller still acts as if nothing changed, yet you're actually taking in 2 more psi without knowing it. This is why my boost gauge is always tapped post intercooler, that way I have the most accurate information and so I know exactly what the engine is actually taking in.

Now, obviously you get the better cooling as Q mentioned, but the above is something that a lot of people don't know to think about.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Dude it was so long ago. I still have the logs laying around tho. My guess was less restriction led to better boost response. More surface area led to better cooling. BOOM #SCIENCE


Fair enough. But that conclusion is more a statement of that setup. A bigger intercooler worked better than a smaller intercooler, it wasn't necessarily a matter of who made it. 

I always tell friends line up your build goals and budget, would an extra $200 spent on a better IC be worth the 10-15f IAT drop?, or would it be better put towards a cam and valve springs, etc? 

All I'm saying is, in this particular case, the eBay ones are dirt cheap and they surprisingly do work. (even if they are hamburger and not filet mignon), Hell even your CX racing worked right up until you upgraded it ;-)

How many people in this thread alone have EMUSA, Godspeed, CX racing, etc intercoolers on their cars right now?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

So, maybe it would be better to use an oem intercooler from a car that is producing a similar amount of power to my goals vs an eBay special? 
The Saab has 2in inlets, which means I will be reducing the pipe there and adding another variable to consider. But if it is good enough for a viggen, should be good enough for me. 


I also think my stage 3 will be a/w and short runner, so spending a bunch on a fancy intercooler isn't high on my list.


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## upoo2 (Dec 7, 2005)

I'm so antsy sitting here waiting on the USRT manifold, especially because we don't even know the pricing or software availability yet. Making me want to use my T3 flange manifold instead and piece something together.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

i would use an ebay intercooler over junkyard unit. i wouldnt even pay money for a stock intercooler like that. not worth the effort imo


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

I second the eBay one, running 25 psi thru mine and it doesn't seem to heat soak much, intake temps stay pretty constant. Is it the best prolly not but works fine for daily driver 


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

yeah especially since he is trying to run 15psi on stock compression


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Well, picked up the viggen intercooler. My thought process was if it was good enough for an OEM around the same hp, should work for me.

But plans may be changing, may jump right to a/w and megasquirt. Chip I bought on eBay hasn't arrived and seller hasn't messaged me back. 
Without a maf, packaging a a/w gets a lot easier with a stock intake manifold.


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## PBWB (Sep 12, 2004)

People not listening is why I left a few years ago....looks like it's time for another haitus. Feel free to spend your money twice, or even 3 times. Good luck gents.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> i would use an ebay intercooler over junkyard unit. i wouldnt even pay money for a stock intercooler like that. not worth the effort imo


Exactly. That was my answer to the original question, junkyard IC vs Ebay one. Ebay specials work better in this case, and can be bought in the exact right size you need, so they tend to fit better.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

PBWB said:


> People not listening is why I left a few years ago....looks like it's time for another haitus. Feel free to spend your money twice, or even 3 times. Good luck gents.


I apologize if I offended you.
I picked it up before all the opinions of anti-oem came in. And it's dirt cheap, and returnable.

Most likely, the point is moot, since real life people are pushing me to A/W. And I will definitely get a ebay heat exchanger.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

monoaural said:


> Well, picked up the viggen intercooler. My thought process was if it was good enough for an OEM around the same hp, should work for me.


lol thats the thing. Its not. look at logs of OEM intercoolers for 1.8t and the like. They are crap. the intercoolers for the mk5/6/7 however are much improved.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

On a side note I ordered my tapped pan today :grinsanta: should hold me over til the holidays are through. Also, I've decided on the t3/t4e 50 trim, .63 hotside. Seems to be all around the best turbo that suits my needs. Suitable for putting around town, and capable of the power goals that I'm looking for. Thanks for all the info and advice guys


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

wolfcastle said:


> Can anyone explain this??
> 
> When my car reaches temp, if i give it full throttle it will misfire on all 4 cyl.
> 
> ...


so i tested my coil yesterday and all the om readings were good. the posts were like .8 ohm and to the dist. it read like 3.6. i looked up he specs and its all within 
operation range. 

any ideas? im looking towards the knock sensor next but anyone else?


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Unplug primary o2-go drife-if its better you have a lazy o2


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

*abaT vanagon syncro*

It's been a while scince I've been here! I built an obd1 aba T for a vanagon syncro.

* head: short radius work, Iconel valves, HD springs, tt 270 cam.

*block: reground, honed and balanced. Low comp. pistons

*etc: UM stg2 software, Garrett T3 from dodge charger, 3" maf, 3.5 for, innovative wide band o2/boost control.

It's been stressful and fun. This engine build is extraordinary given most vanagon folks settle for a Subaru or zetec. My trouble is I'm tall geared, the trans are fragile and worth their weight in gold. So refining the hp/trq....the trans is designed or used to seeing engines that red line at 5k. I try to run my engine in the same fashion. Hanging in the 3-4k.

Recently my mpg dropped from 17.5 to 11.5 and smells rich. In spite of my wide band saying "A Ok". 
I got an opportunity to use vcds, and being obd1 the mpg drop is either the ecm o2 or the maf, most likely my o2. I'm going to look into it further! One thing when we'd get to group 8 it would kill the engine... We speculate the UM software was doing this but not sure?

After a summary and a headscratching session, I brought up. Obd1 vs. Obd2 or what Obd2. In the end it seems as though using early aeb 1.8T harness and ecm might have an edge up. Individual coils, more tuning options etc.

Any help would be appreciated where I might find more info using aeb management, Or how to tune this to operate between 1k-4500rpm.


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Obdii is def a step upmin drivability and mileage-easy swap forn yah-throttle body and harness.......ps i have complete standalone aba harnesses for sale  300$ easies harness ever to hook up!


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

standalone management would be nice. I feel oem management might be paramount for a no fuss arrangement. I like to get into the backcountry!​


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

InlinePerformance said:


> Obdii is def a step upmin drivability and mileage-easy swap forn yah-throttle body and harness.......ps i have complete standalone aba harnesses for sale  300$ easies harness ever to hook up!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


more info on this harness??


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

Hi everyone! I know its not a turbo setup but there is no all inclusive aba supercharger threads. So here is my questions...

I am getting random multiple misfires under full boost I believe spark plug gap is the issue. What gap should I set my plugs at? Currently at .028"

Next issue is when coming to a stop or pressing the clutch in when the engine goes to return to idle the rpms dip and the oil and battery lights come on and the engine almost stalls out. I have tried multiple throttle bodies, new maf, and tested the o2 sensor with vcds. The weird thing is if I induce a vacuum leak it doesn't seem to do the same thing. Do you think that the tune is designed for a greater flow of unmetered air than what I'm receiving since the engine is in a MKI not a MKIII? I am running a UM stage 2 42# tune. 

Thanks!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

whats the history on that sc? i had a similar issue on mone only it wouldnt idle period without a vac leak induced.


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> whats the history on that sc? i had a similar issue on mone only it wouldnt idle period without a vac leak induced.


I got the charger used. Not sure of the history on it. All the internals looked good before I installed it. Still makes good boost and sounds like it should.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

engineman98 said:


> I got the charger used. Not sure of the history on it. All the internals looked good before I installed it. Still makes good boost and sounds like it should.


Yeah, could be different than my issue, but the working theory on mine was that the rotors were improperly timed and restricting airflow. Just something to watch out for...since mine turned into a very expensive paper weight. Mine wouldn't idle period....wouldn't even start without your foot on the throttle.

Also, you may want to throw on a stock VR maf housing. I had a ton of issues with my car when i was using the C2 MAF and Jeff wrote that file with a VR maf housing. There is definatley a subtle difference in the size of the housings.....at least in my experience.


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## engineman98 (May 31, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> Yeah, could be different than my issue, but the working theory on mine was that the rotors were improperly timed and restricting airflow. Just something to watch out for...since mine turned into a very expensive paper weight. Mine wouldn't idle period....wouldn't even start without your foot on the throttle.
> 
> Also, you may want to throw on a stock VR maf housing. I had a ton of issues with my car when i was using the C2 MAF and Jeff wrote that file with a VR maf housing. There is definatley a subtle difference in the size of the housings.....at least in my experience.


Thanks for the info on the maf housing. It wont hurt to try and throw another one on it.
:beer:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Any of you guys run Mega Squirt or something similar?

Can the ABA's OEM crank sensor be used with Mega Squirt to run sequential injector or Coil on plug? or do you have to add a 60-2 wheel/sensor?


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

The ABA crank wheel/trigger is great for MS. It's already a 60-2  Couple that with the 'cam sensor' (aka: single window dizzy) and you can easily run sequential injection.


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

Any of you guys run e85 and who tuned it?
Obd 1 or obd2

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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Srbgti said:


> Any of you guys run e85 and who tuned it?
> Obd 1 or obd2
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


^ x2

And how much of the OEM fuel system is e85 safe? I believe the OEM hard plastic line and plastic tank is fine. I'm not sure if VW style Bosch external pumps ( like 044) are e85 safe. I know you want put a new strainer, and filter in cause e85 tends to loosen any junk in the system.

It might just be the rubber line under the hood that needs replacing with e85 hose?

I know it would take more than the standard 42lb injectors for sure, but Deka has some affordable 80lb + ones. You might be interested to know that beside Haltech Elite, Holley HP, and some of the other big dollar EFI systems, Microsquirt can also use a flex fuel sensor. (Who knew?) So maybe MS2 can also, and for sure MS3x and MS3 pro can.


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

B4S said:


> The ABA crank wheel/trigger is great for MS. It's already a 60-2  Couple that with the 'cam sensor' (aka: single window dizzy) and you can easily run sequential injection.


I was wondering if it's possible to use aeb harness and ecm. It seems doable enough? No sai as you mentioned single window dizzy, I just don't know if the cps is/are the same?


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> ^ x2
> 
> And how much of the own fuel system is e85 safe? I believe the OEM hard plastic line and plastic tank is fine. I'm not sure if VW style Bosch external pumps ( like 044) are e85 safe. I know you want put a new strainer, and filter in cause e85 tends to loosen any junk in the system.
> 
> ...


The fuel pump and injectors have to be changed for sure. So do the fuel lines/ fuel filter and couple small things. But I still can't find some one to tune it with or with out turbo on obd1 idk for obd2 . I tried emailing companies but been shut down from them. Next thing is independent guys that do tuning like Dax Dillinger and etc. to ask them. 


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Srbgti said:


> The fuel pump and injectors have to be changed for sure. So do the fuel lines/ fuel filter and couple small things.


I was doing some reading last night, and it looks like most of the Bosch pumps are ok, and at least the later VW hard plastic lines are ok (whether or not Mk2/3 plastic lines are, might take some experimentation). I would think any rubber or O-rings would need to changed to something E85 safe, fuel lines under the hood are easily adapted to AN fittings, and Teflon core line is available. 

I'm not sure you could do a it easily without using a fuel system that has a flex fuel sensor. The problem being pump E85 is a total crap shoot, legally they could sell you anything from 51% to 83% Ethanol content. How does one tune for that without the sensor? Unless of course you're buying VP Fuel C85, then every batch will be consistent. 

And you absolutely can't leave this junk in your fuel system and store the car. It will absorb water and will rust/pit everything, included pieces inside the injector and fuel pump.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

Dub8r said:


> standalone management would be nice. I feel oem management might be paramount for a no fuss arrangement. I like to get into the backcountry!​


I'm not 100% sure what you mean by that, but I can give my experience.

Standalone is superior in reliability to an ABA OEM management system for FI. 

I daily drove on standalone for 5-7yrs without an issue ever.
The OEM system is very finicky, has many parameters and the ignition system sucks major ball sack.

just my $0.02 eace:


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

GTijoejoe said:


> I'm not 100% sure what you mean by that, but I can give my experience.
> 
> Standalone is superior in reliability to an ABA OEM management system for FI.
> 
> ...


I play with this syncro like a jeep, I take it way away from help or AAA. The wife gets scared and insecure about being stranded. 

An obd2 system is better than the obd1 for a basic user in this application. Standalone would be nice, I feel like it may be more complex when I'm really just trying to simplify things.

Talking with my local expert, the idea of using/adapting an aeb 1.8t harness and management seems doable and may offer a more modern outcome. 

I'm really not sure what the best solution is. If it hits the fan I'd hate to be in bfe trouble shooting with a multi meter!


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Dub8r said:


> I play with this syncro like a jeep, I take it way away from help or AAA. The wife gets scared and insecure about being stranded.
> 
> An obd2 system is better than the obd1 for a basic user in this application. Standalone would be nice, I feel like it may be more complex when I'm really just trying to simplify things.
> 
> ...


pretty sure I have the fastest obd1(c2 stg 2) ABA turbo out there. I daily drive it. Its been easy. I would like to do standalone for better everything lol.


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> pretty sure I have the fastest obd1(c2 stg 2) ABA turbo out there. I daily drive it. Its been easy. I would like to do standalone for better everything lol.


Any videos or pics of the car 


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Dub8r said:


> I play with this syncro like a jeep, I take it way away from help or AAA. The wife gets scared and insecure about being stranded.
> 
> An obd2 system is better than the obd1 for a basic user in this application. Standalone would be nice, I feel like it may be more complex when I'm really just trying to simplify things.
> 
> ...


I don't understand the thought process here.

Once you have stand alone wired in and tuned properly, it's exactly as reliable as a factory OBD1 or OBD2 setup. I'm mean were talking about hardware in the field here. Something like Micro squirt is super affordable, (sealed and has some sort of waterproof rating if that matters to you) and can do a 4cyl with semi sequential injection (2 & 2) and Coil on plug, or keep it simple with batch fire and a dizzy. In the long run it's going to be easier to set up, then trying to wire 1.8t management in and than hacking into the EPROM enough to make it all work right.

Not to mention future changes (timing advance, or injector size, etc) are as easy as plugging in your laptop and opening up Tuner Studio.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Srbgti said:


> Any videos or pics of the car
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





















this was on my old motor with no head work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2PsTS_fEAk

This is the new motor


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQSALsR5PUo


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## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

Daskoupe said:


> pretty sure I have the fastest obd1(c2 stg 2) ABA turbo out there. I daily drive it. Its been easy. I would like to do standalone for better everything lol.


who has the fastest obd2?

I'm 12.5 with obd2


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## Dub8r (Dec 22, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> I don't understand the thought process here.
> 
> Once you have stand alone wired in and tuned properly, it's exactly as reliable as a factory OBD1 or OBD2 setup. I'm mean were talking about hardware in the field here. Something like Micro squirt is super affordable, (sealed and has some sort of waterproof rating if that matters to you) and can do a 4cyl with semi sequential injection (2 & 2) and Coil on plug, or keep it simple with batch fire and a dizzy. In the long run it's going to be easier to set up, then trying to wire 1.8t management in and than hacking into the EPROM enough to make it all work right.
> 
> Not to mention future changes (timing advance, or injector size, etc) are as easy as plugging in your laptop and opening up Tuner Studio.


I'm sure it's been discussed to nauseam, what standalone management is most used, cost of set up? Or any links a layman can read up on the subject?


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Daskoup, how much boost are you running and what are you running for plugs/gap? I'm running obd1 aba w c2 and get sporadic spark blow out over 22ish psi but it's not consistent and seems temp related. Running bk7re at .02 gap w a very new coil and fatty autotech wires. Wasn't sure how low I should go on the gap. Pic for reference










Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I run those same plugs but the iridium verison. gap around .022? Not sure. I do get the intermittent spark blow as well. Mainly in second. Rarely. Seems to be worse if I baby the car for a week then go to get on it. I run 23psi daily.


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Use an msd blaster coil-bkr7e ngk (copper plugs get best spark) 


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

jcveedub said:


> Daskoup, how much boost are you running and what are you running for plugs/gap? I'm running obd1 aba w c2 and get sporadic spark blow out over 22ish psi but it's not consistent and seems temp related. Running bk7re at .02 gap w a very new coil and fatty autotech wires. Wasn't sure how low I should go on the gap. Pic for reference


Any more pictures looks like a clean set up


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Dub8r said:


> I'm sure it's been discussed to nauseam, what standalone management is most used, cost of set up? Or any links a layman can read up on the subject?


Megasquirt and Lugtronic/VEMS are probably used the most...... If you go the full DIY route with megasquirt you can do an MS2 for under $500 including a wideband O2. 

Now I know some people are going to chime in an say "Oh but MS1 is even cheaper" so listen up everyone. MS1 Processors are no longer made. MS1 products will continue to be sold and supported as long as the existing stock of chips remains. When the existing stocks are gone so is MS1. MS1 is also pretty much obsolete. The feature sets and menuing in MS2 and MS3 are much better and similar making for an easy upgrade path. So yes you could start with an MS2 and then upgrade to an MS3 simply by changing the case and processor. You can do the same with an MS1 but the main board will also need mods... 

Lastly DON"T EVEN bother with a V2.2 or earlier mainboard. Sure they work.... but with F/I, please.

lots more MS info can be found at MSExtra.com


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

I have done a lot of recent research into megasquirt. My obd1 chip fell through, so I am right now 90% sure going with microsquirt. Looks like it will do everything I need it to, and is a bit cheaper than MS2. Only bummer: having to choose between boost control and idle control. You have the option of one or the other.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

InlinePerformance said:


> Use an msd blaster coil-bkr7e ngk (copper plugs get best spark)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How easy is that blaster hook up? just like an older vw style on? No resistor needed?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

monoaural said:


> so I am right now 90% sure going with microsquirt. Looks like it will do everything I need it to, and is a bit cheaper than MS2.


I'm 99% sure I'm going with Micro Squirt also. (The other option being MSII V3.xx) I'm keeping it batch fire and running a dizzy (at least I think I am) I'm struggling with the whole coil driver vs. logic level thing. Can either one of them actually fire the OEM coil? 

I mean I'm not even fully up on what controls ignition advance on my car, but I assume the Digifant 1 ECU changes the dwell time, and advances the on time for advanced timing. So can either Micro or MS2, handle doing the Dwell part?? Do you need to get MS and the add on Bosch BIP373 Coil Driver Mod? Is there an external coil driver for doing this?

I mean worst case scenario, I'll just get a 60-2 wheel put on my G60 crank pulley and run LS1 ignition coils. Probably a better solution for cars like our where I have read 3 or 4 people, myself included, post about "spark blow out" under high cylinder pressures.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Microsquirt doesn't have any coil drivers anymore, and if you go with the version from diyautotune.com, you can't add any BIPs for onboard coil control. The logic level stuff basically just means that any coil you use has to have it's own ignitor (like the ABA coil module, or the ignitor/coil combo from a digi-2 car). The logic level outputs tell the ignitor when to start charging the coil, and you can control the dwell with the micro.

Basically: The microsquirt can fire the stock ABA coil since it has it's own ignitor. If you want to use a stock Mk2 or digi-1 coil, you need to use a digi-2 'power stage' module (which is a fancy word for ignitor).


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

So, you can use one of the Bosch 124 modules which are stock on mk2s, or go waste spark with a coil pack with a built in ignitor. Also, you can use the led outs for full COP. 
Gonna be wiring up a vrt with microsquirt very soon. Gonna use the factory coil pack, and batch fire three injectors for that guy. May be doing mine first, we will see. 
I have done megasquirt 2 on a g60 with a stock icm and coil. Did end up having issues with noise above 6500 after we moved stuff around. (Was turboed in a rwd caddy)


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

monoaural said:


> I have done a lot of recent research into megasquirt. My obd1 chip fell through, so I am right now 90% sure going with microsquirt. Looks like it will do everything I need it to, and is a bit cheaper than MS2. Only bummer: having to choose between boost control and idle control. You have the option of one or the other.


A microsquirt is NOT cheaper in the long run than an MS2. And it really wasn't designed for automobiles but rather motorcycles, ATVs and the like that don't need the quite as much I/O as a car. The Microsquirt also makes a great auto trans controller. Yes I know they are compact and have a better connector than a standard megsquirt but you gain a ton of flexibility with a standard MS that you just don't have plus upgrade potential that the micro simply cannot do.

Also keep this in mind when researching megasquirt related products..... Much of the info floating around the internet is old, outdated or simply wrong. MSEFI.com and MSExtra.com are the only sites with accurate info and the best info is on MSExtra.com.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

B4S said:


> Microsquirt doesn't have any coil drivers anymore, and if you go with the version from diyautotune.com, you can't add any BIPs for onboard coil control. The logic level stuff basically just means that any coil you use has to have it's own ignitor (like the ABA coil module, or the ignitor/coil combo from a digi-2 car). The logic level outputs tell the ignitor when to start charging the coil, and you can control the dwell with the micro.
> 
> Basically: The microsquirt can fire the stock ABA coil since it has it's own ignitor. If you want to use a stock Mk2 or digi-1 coil, you need to use a digi-2 'power stage' module (which is a fancy word for ignitor).


I think the ABA coil is every it as good as a Mk2 coil, guess I'll just do that.

Also I don't understand why the ms2 is so much better than a the microsquirt in every case? I know it has more I/O and can be modified to drive coils directly. However in my case .It will read my TPS, IAT, CLT, 4 window hall in dizzy, wideband i(I already have a Innovate controller and gauge) Map sensor (external which I see as a plus, not a negative) probably can read knock too, but I hear these are inconsistent and should not be relied on.

It has 2 injector outs and 4 ignition out, and I only need 1 of each (as long as I use the ABA coil) can control my fuel pump, has tach signal out, and probably still has enough I/O to incooperate some of my nitrous system into it (timing reduction under spray, or to control the activation itself). Boost control I don't care about, I already have an EBC inside the car, and it works perfect.

Is there something else I'm missing. Because I'm not totally against MS2, it's still an option, but I'm having a hard time seeing why in a 4 cyl, batch fire, dizzy car, you really need more?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

An MS2 isn't better in every case. That being said, on a modified or engine swapped car, be it for the track the street or both, I will choose an MS2 over a Microsquirt every single time. I want the better flexibility, I want the ability to run cooling fans, 4 coils, on/off water meth, boost control, idle control and have a tach output as well as the normal stuff. I love the onboard MAP sensor, they have a very low failure rate and most of all I want the ability to upgrade. MS3 while more expensive ( and Lord know that the people who post on these forums are the cheapest tightest bunch of skinflints in the world!) is worth every penny and if you choose the MS2 path when you outgrow it and want more things like control of the A/C, progressive water meth injection and traction control then you can upgrade to a 3/3X for about the same price as your MS2


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

G60 Carat said:


> I think the ABA coil is every it as good as a Mk2 coil, guess I'll just do that.
> 
> Also I don't understand why the ms2 is so much better than a the microsquirt in every case? I know it has more I/O and can be modified to drive coils directly. However in my case .It will read my TPS, IAT, CLT, 4 window hall in dizzy, wideband i(I already have a Innovate controller and gauge) Map sensor (external which I see as a plus, not a negative) probably can read knock too, but I hear these are inconsistent and should not be relied on.
> 
> ...


Microsquirt will work fine, but ultimately, you will be very limited if you decide to add functions later. If you never plan to go crazy with your add-ons, and will be happy with the basics, then go for it IMO.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

B4S said:


> Microsquirt will work fine, but ultimately, you will be very limited if you decide to add functions later. If you never plan to go crazy with your add-ons, and will be happy with the basics, then go for it IMO.


Well my BMW might get a 6cyl or V8 swap down the road, and that car I would run on MS2 or MS3x, but that's because I would want the extra features. My VW is never going to be anything other than a 4cyl turbo car, and always just a cheap car for the "LULZ".

The only upgrade I could see in the long term is a 16v/ABA/Turbo like my friend is building. Because it fits my budget and has that much more potential. But even then Microsquirt can read the 60-2 in the ABA bottom end, and than can do a COP for that kind of set up. It would still be batch fire though, and if by using 4 coils, I lost 2 I/O's and the ability to control nitrous, so be it. 

Oh Micro can also do Idle control (might only be could start, not sure there), but only a VW/PWM style idle valve not a GM Stepper type. It can do that or run a boost control solenoid, not both. Only one PWM output, that could be a deal breaker for a lot of people.




edit:

Does anybody have a write up/link on how to use a ABA Ignition module off the coil on a different coil. I've seen it done.


----------



## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> edit:
> 
> Does anybody have a write up/link on how to use a ABA Ignition module off the coil on a different coil. I've seen it done.


I would just use an icm like this: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_water_cooled_vw.htm


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

G60 Carat said:


> Well my BMW might get a 6cyl or V8 swap down the road, and that car I would run on MS2 or MS3x, but that's because I would want the extra features. My VW is never going to be anything other than a 4cyl turbo car, and always just a cheap car for the "LULZ".
> 
> The only upgrade I could see in the long term is a 16v/ABA/Turbo like my friend is building. Because it fits my budget and has that much more potential. But even then Microsquirt can read the 60-2 in the ABA bottom end, and than can do a COP for that kind of set up. It would still be batch fire though, and if by using 4 coils, I lost 2 I/O's and the ability to control nitrous, so be it.
> 
> ...


I don't have a link, but if you pop the cover off the side of the ABA coil, you'll see there are two 'poles' there. Essentially, the ABA coil is a fancy canister coil, and the poles are under that cover. There are two little outputs off the ABA ignitor module, they go to the two poles of the coil you want to use. Done . One is 12v and one is neg.

[edit] found a link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5646805-MSD-Blaster-SS-DIY-Install


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## Fast2.0L (Oct 12, 1999)

I use my Rabbit with a built ABA turbo as a track day car, generally only running 15-17psi. How is everyone handling the heat? That's been causing me a lot of issues in multiple areas.

I'm running UM Stage 2 engine management and even with a Mk4 open element Intake Air Temp sensor in the intercooler pipe it's still getting heat soaked and going pig rich (>9:1 AFR). Thinking about Megasquirt to solve this.

I have a 23 row oil cooler and a Spal fan, I'm still seeing 300 degree oil temps about 10 minutes in.

I have to replace my turbo studs every 2-3 track days or they just snap off.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Fast2.0L said:


> I use my Rabbit with a built ABA turbo as a track day car, generally only running 15-17psi. How is everyone handling the heat? That's been causing me a lot of issues in multiple areas.
> 
> I'm running UM Stage 2 engine management and even with a Mk4 open element Intake Air Temp sensor in the intercooler pipe it's still getting heat soaked and going pig rich (>9:1 AFR). Thinking about Megasquirt to solve this.
> 
> ...



Thats hot. How big is your radiator. And yeah the studs suck. I bought some fancy ones for mine. what oil do you run?


In other news. I magically starting making 17 psi instead of my normal 23. I havent had a chance to pressure test it yet. Master cylinder started leaking last week. Now this morning my throw out bearing self destructed. Merry christmas hahaa. 1 month on the head till I go to Sebring for my HPDE too:banghead:


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*ms2*

Hi Mr West,just go with ms2v3.0 and be done with it,you'll be happier and so much more friendlier to use,plus we all know you just keep on upgrading. Side note on the 288 cam,like Q said the duration is so wide,that it affects directly lobe separation angle,so 276-280 is the most advisable or recommended for street or sporadic track use.of course the 288* with a 10-20* overlap wount be bad for a track car as long as compression and intake centerline has been taken care or considered since advancing the cam or retarding would not only affect power band but also spool and cylinder pressure.later mates!! More to come,Roderick(quintin) your phone still ends at 1329?


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## Fast2.0L (Oct 12, 1999)

Daskoupe said:


> Thats hot. How big is your radiator. And yeah the studs suck. I bought some fancy ones for mine. what oil do you run?
> 
> 
> In other news. I magically starting making 17 psi instead of my normal 23. I havent had a chance to pressure test it yet. Master cylinder started leaking last week. Now this morning my throw out bearing self destructed. Merry christmas hahaa. 1 month on the head till I go to Sebring for my HPDE too:banghead:


I'm running the smallest radiator, a non-AC GTI radiator with dual Spal fans. Coolant temps are perfect, just seems to be oil that gets out of hand. The oil cooler radiator is 10"x13" and I don't think I can fit anything bigger. I'm running Rotella T6 5w40 for oil. What kind of studs are you running? Inconel? I have some Volvo studs right now which are supposed to be made of a special alloy.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*G60 rad*

Hi mate! I have a Corrado G60 radiator with mini Cooper 13"fan and shroud,my Temps never get over 180-190* also using same radiator with aba fans and shroud cut to fit on a vr6 12v circuit car. We see 195-205* and that's in Puerto Rico which is hot like hell,so I would change to a Corrado radiator if that's the case!! Best of luck mate!.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So I need a freaking OBD1 Ecm ASAP. I went to move it today after sitting for a week and bam no start. No injector pulse or spark!!!:banghead: hit me up


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Ebay!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

InlinePerformance said:


> Ebay!!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yeah I know but I know you guys. Well Sorta. You know what I mean


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> How easy is that blaster hook up? just like an older vw style on? No resistor needed?


 Exactly i saw no improvement when I had one
But it looked cool


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Daskoupe said:


> So I need a freaking OBD1 Ecm ASAP. I went to move it today after sitting for a week and bam no start. No injector pulse or spark!!!:banghead: hit me up


Only thing i have is a spare mk4 vr brain
and thats no help


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Cps*

Hi das,it might sound stupid but did you check the cranksensor? If yes discard this massage,thing is the same happened to me,and forgot to check ,and my ecu was ok,just trying kko help! Roderick


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rodperformance said:


> Hi das,it might sound stupid but did you check the cranksensor? If yes discard this massage,thing is the same happened to me,and forgot to check ,and my ecu was ok,just trying kko help! Roderick


got my spare on the table. Going to install it at lunch. I forgot they give up injector pulse and spark if the CPS is unhappy


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> So I need a freaking OBD1 Ecm ASAP. I went to move it today after sitting for a week and bam no start. No injector pulse or spark!!!:banghead: hit me up


Your inbox is full I can't send you a msg but my paypal is [email protected]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## will_t (Mar 12, 2009)

Anyone need a new manifold? I found a kinetic log mani so I'm likely going to run that. Needs a wastegate flange welded on, but I have one. PM me if interested. :beer:



















to keep it a little more relevant, anyone running a half size aluminum radiator? pondering a few different things for my radiator setup.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

Nice mani! You should totally run that one and send me the kinetic piece :wave:


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> got my spare on the table. Going to install it at lunch. I forgot they give up injector pulse and spark if the CPS is unhappy


back on the road. Must of pinched it some how installing the new clutch:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

will_t said:


> Anyone need a new manifold? I found a kinetic log mani so I'm likely going to run that. Needs a wastegate flange welded on, but I have one. PM me if interested. :beer:


Dude...run THAT manifold not the kinetic.


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## will_t (Mar 12, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Dude...run THAT manifold not the kinetic.


I realize it's a better flowing manifold, but space is limited with my setup and I have a downpipe that fits the height of the kinetic manifold. If it doesn't sell, I wont be disappointed. I can always have my downpipe lengthened a bit to make it work later.  :beer:


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*hi!! almost new year*

Das,it was the cps Pinched? The exact thing that happened to me,but with the front engine braket (front engine mount).glad you have it back on the road mate. I'm in Orlando for Christmas so when I get back home ,will see if I can finish my coupe!! Happy new year to all you folks and gals!!.Roderick


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rodperformance said:


> Das,it was the cps Pinched? The exact thing that happened to me,but with the front engine braket (front engine mount).glad you have it back on the road mate. I'm in Orlando for Christmas so when I get back home ,will see if I can finish my coupe!! Happy new year to all you folks and gals!!.Roderick


You should come down and check out my new shop and the coupe. I am about 2 hours south of you


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

What's up guys. If I put my 9:1 Headspacer on and keep driving the car NA for a while is it going to feel like a slug with the lowered compression? I currently have a stock OBDII head with a 270* 

Cheers


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

MahTrek=] said:


> What's up guys. If I put my 9:1 Headspacer on and keep driving the car NA for a while is it going to feel like a slug with the lowered compression? I currently have a stock OBDII head with a 270*
> 
> Cheers


You can do it but I would just wait....it will make he car slower. arent you going to change out the valve springs to a dual setup?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...nic-boost-control**affordable-boost-by-gear**


ON SALE NOW

*$300*


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Happy New year's guys here is to more hp and faster times, New manifold and a few other changes dyno to come this month.


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## MahTrek=] (Nov 6, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> You can do it but I would just wait....it will make he car slower. arent you going to change out the valve springs to a dual setup?


Thanks for the reply wolfcastle. I have an OBDI head that I have Autotech dual valve springs and AEG lifters for. It will receive the autotech 270*. 'll be installing that head with the Headspacer. I'll just wait til it's instal time and do it all at once :thumbup:


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

Have some big valves for ABA. I am building a 20v not so LMK if you guys are interested.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Does anyone have any info in regards to a bigger injector soft wear for the Aba turbo. I'm running out of fuel at 20psi so I have to drop it down to 18 for it to stay with in the right range. Gt28 71 r um 440 softwear, with second o2 delete and an inline pump with water meth injection. When I run 110 octane I can get away with 20psi . Head is completely worked with 1mm larger intake and exhuast valve with 1mm smaller stems


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

cifdig said:


> Does anyone have any info in regards to a bigger injector soft wear for the Aba turbo. I'm running out of fuel at 20psi so I have to drop it down to 18 for it to stay with in the right range. Gt28 71 r um 440 softwear, with second o2 delete and an inline pump with water meth injection. When I run 110 octane I can get away with 20psi . Head is completely worked with 1mm larger intake and exhuast valve with 1mm smaller stems


The topic has been discussed, throw away that chip and get your OBD1 custom tuned.


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## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

Who custom tunes obd1 

Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Hi tig*

Hi tig,how much for valves,seats and springs?939-644-0676 Roderick


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Have you tried turning the fuel pressure up with a adjustable fpr

I was running 24psi with it set at 4 bar and had plenty of fuel running a cis pump and stock fuel lines


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

I'm obd2


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

rodperformance said:


> Hi tig,how much for valves,seats and springs?939-644-0676 Roderick


$250


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

andresfel said:


> Who custom tunes obd1
> 
> Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


All the software is free and anyone with a dyno that tunes hondas or GM likely has the equipment. 

All of the files you need are in the downloads. http://tunerpro.net/

Here is a video of this in action. http://vid886.photobucket.com/albums/ac61/slappynuts_photos/WP_20150819_0021_zpsegkaewp4.mp4


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## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

TIGninja said:


> All the software is free and anyone with a dyno that tunes hondas or GM likely has the equipment.
> 
> All of the files you need are in the downloads. http://tunerpro.net/
> 
> Here is a video of this in action. http://vid886.photobucket.com/albums/ac61/slappynuts_photos/WP_20150819_0021_zpsegkaewp4.mp4


Wow i didn't know about this thanks a lot  

Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


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## TIGninja (Mar 21, 2010)

andresfel said:


> Wow i didn't know about this thanks a lot
> 
> Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


Nobody really does. There are a few things that could improve it as it is. Fell free to take over the project. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...onic-tuning-thread&highlight=motronic+tuneing


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## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

TIGninja said:


> Nobody really does. There are a few things that could improve it as it is. Fell free to take over the project. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...onic-tuning-thread&highlight=motronic+tuneing


My car is one of those wierd version's its not motronic its digifant 1.74 and I'm planning on building it turbo I'm not sure if I want to go the stand alone route
I have a t3/t4 turbo a manifold with an external wastegate flange a tial 38mm wastegate a set of 650cc injector's and so on 

Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


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## andresfel (Mar 19, 2013)

andresfel said:


> My car is one of those wierd version's its not motronic its digifant 1.74 and I'm planning on building it turbo I'm not sure if I want to go the stand alone route
> I have a t3/t4 turbo a manifold with an external wastegate flange a tial 38mm wastegate a set of 650cc injector's and so on
> 
> Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


It even has a obd2 port

Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

TIGninja said:


> . I am building a 20v .


noooooooooo!


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## fastrabbit (Jan 17, 2002)

[email protected] said:


> noooooooooo!


i bet its going to be nuts,


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## TMakrop (Sep 18, 2015)

Zorba2.0 said:


> gt2871r .63
> kinetic manifold
> ATP ultimate internal wastegate
> 3" downpipe and 3" cat delete
> ...


What vc are you running? TDI?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

For those who haven't heard, Tony's aba turbo is on Ebay. Not sure how it ended up there but someone could get a good deal on a great car

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15194686455...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=151946864552&_rdc=1


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> For those who haven't heard, Tony's aba turbo is on Ebay. Not sure how it ended up there but someone could get a good deal on a great car
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/15194686455...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=151946864552&_rdc=1


dangit i hate it when people refer to a turbo by it's trim... that tells us NOTHING. Give us actual wheel sizes and/or part numbers. That is all. GLWS. /rant :beer:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> dangit i hate it when people refer to a turbo by it's trim... that tells us NOTHING. Give us actual wheel sizes and/or part numbers. That is all. GLWS. /rant :beer:


How much boost you running????? :laugh:


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

so i have decided to run a 10gal fuel cell in the trunk of my coupe and i am in the process of getting it all plumbed up with -6 stainless fuel line. my question is what the solution for some sort of clamps to hold it to the bottom of the car...i would just zip tie it but theres nothing to attach it to. ive looked and looked and cant 
seem to find the right type of clamps. I am almost at the point of just making my own brackets out of sheet steel and bending them as needed. but would love to avoid that.
pic of the bay


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VWDugan said:


> so i have decided to run a 10gal fuel cell in the trunk of my coupe and i am in the process of getting it all plumbed up with -6 stainless fuel line. my question is what the solution for some sort of clamps to hold it to the bottom of the car...i would just zip tie it but theres nothing to attach it to. ive looked and looked and cant
> seem to find the right type of clamps. I am almost at the point of just making my own brackets out of sheet steel and bending them as needed. but would love to avoid that.
> pic of the bay


I live close to a very strict/by the book NHRA sanctioned track. (Which is why we prefer to drive farther to go the much more relaxed non-NHRA track, but that's another story.) 

Anyways by NHRA Rules (if that matters to you, but generally they do know safety and you will get through tech if they check.) say that fuel lines have to be secured with metal clamps. Zip-ties are a fail to hold braided hose up under the car. Insulated cable clamps are popular, and hopefully you could find enough threaded studs or pre-exsisting holes to use. You can also drill holes through the floor pan and use a stove bolt under the carpet, and secure the clamps that way. A little dab of silicone under the bolt head keeps water out. Otherwise I have seen guys use self taping threaded sheet metal screws coated in red loctite. (But that would be my very last resort, I don't know how much I trust that solution for the long haul) 



















Edit: If you want fancy stuff, Summit racing sells Earls and other brands aluminum fuel line mounting clamps. They come in single/double.


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

I run the first clamps on my -8 lines under my car that work good I used self tapping screw to secure them


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

put the Aba turbo down to 14 psi and hurt some Porsche owners feelings 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwlxcPotZq0


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## VW_MK3_270 (Feb 2, 2012)

Daskoupe said:


> put the Aba turbo down to 14 psi and hurt some Porsche owners feelings
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwlxcPotZq0


Hell. Yeah.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

VWDugan said:


>


Oh I forgot to mention if you take this to a NHRA track one day, they won't let you have the fuel regulator on the firewall.


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> Oh I forgot to mention if you take this to a NHRA track one day, they won't let you have the fuel regulator on the firewall.


well that sucks...seemed like the best option at the time..any other ideas on good places to mount it?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

On the inner fender is fine, rules say 6" away from firewall. Some tracks are more slack than others, but the only NHRA track in our province is a real stickler. It sucks to get all packed up and get to the track only to find out you can't run. :-(


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## VWDugan (Mar 22, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> On the inner fender is fine, rules say 6" away from firewall. Some tracks are more slack than others, but the only NHRA track in our province is a real stickler. It sucks to get all packed up and get to the track only to find out you can't run. :-(


good to know...ill find another spot to mount it


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So guys. I am really thinking going to a K04 turbo on the new USRT manifold. As much as I love the 24 psi straight line power its sorta a 1 trick pony. I have got into track days and such. The lag on this turbo is killing me. Also on anything over 18 psi result in hardcore wheel spin to about 70-80 mph even with fully heat Rs3 tires. My setup has been solid and aside from the random loosening of bolts its been great. I just think before I go buy a Borg warner EFR7162 for 1500 bucks. I can buy a K04-001 and everything else I need to make a very nice 240-260 whp setup. Thoughts?

TLDR

Think going more Road course route. No more straight line Queen

Pros?
K04s are very cheap
Oem parts always make life easy
the spoollllllllllll
space efficient 
Cons
Power limited 
Maybe harder on the trans
?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I would think the turbo lag kind of helps coming out of turn to defeat understeer and wheelspin in those 2nd and 3rd gears vs a k04 setup. i turn my boost down to about 15 when i hit the track but theres not much you can do to eliminate the wheelspin completley.

i would let someone else build one and then check it out. Idk if it would honestly be worth it to swap everything over....if you were starting from scratch that would be one thing. Power numbers on that kit are all speculation at this point also....that small turbo = more low end torque and thats what starts bending rods also... just my .02


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

K04 will smash the tires off in the lower gears just the same, maybe even worse as it will be more "torqs" sooner. 

I would think you take the fast spool of the k04 setup, mixed with some clever power limiting via boost by gear. (Or even better gear x rpm, or if possible gear x road speed), you could basically always have the power the tires will hold for a given gear and speed. Would be an amazing track day setup. :thumbup: 

Hell would be easy to have a de-tuned street tune off that setup, making the most of your street time as well...

Edit: Big plus about small turbos is there are much more forgiving when you pick the wrong gear for a corner exit, giving you a little more flexibility out there.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Anyone need any UM software?

Hit me up! obd2, works fine


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Its in, and runs. Feels like a super late spool with 5psi at 4500ish. Not sure on exact turbo specs except .63 exhaust housing and its a t3/t4 50 trim. Also running a fairly conservative tune on the megasquirt.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

monoaural said:


> Its in, and runs. Feels like a super late spool with 5psi at 4500ish. Not sure on exact turbo specs except .63 exhaust housing and its a t3/t4 50 trim. Also running a fairly conservative tune on the megasquirt.


That seems a little laggy for that turbo and housing size. Could be all in your tune or it could be a leak pre turbo, boost leak or restrictive exhaust. What size DP you running?


Wait...did you forget to plug the bolt holes on that intercooler?? LOL


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

G60 Carat said:


> K04...words, letters, more words.... *via boost by gear. (Or even better gear x rpm, or if possible gear x road speed)*.....more words.




We got JUST THE THING....


http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=112_303&products_id=2017










I LOVE MINE AND YOU WILL TOO!:beer::beer::beer:


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> That seems a little laggy for that turbo and housing size. Could be all in your tune or it could be a leak pre turbo, boost leak or restrictive exhaust. What size DP you running?
> 
> 
> Wait...did you forget to plug the bolt holes on that intercooler?? LOL


 3 in down pipe to 2.5 with a res and a stock style muffler.

Found the old FS ad for the car that the turbo was pulled from(got it from a friend), and it looks like I actually have a T04e 57 trim with a .63 ar.

I am running a microsquirt, and running a timing map pulled from the forums, away from the laptop right now. IIRC starting at 24 or 26 at positive pressure, and dropping from there. 

Pretty sure the intercooler mounting holes are sealed, but if they are not: :banghead:. I will have to throw a bolt in the top hole and see. Was expecting a little more than 5 psi, have a Tial F38 with 7lb spring, but I know the springs aren't super accurate.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Make sure the wastegate is operating correctly and test for boost leaks. you should have 5psi come on around 3500 to 4k range


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> Make sure the wastegate is operating correctly and test for boost leaks. you should have 5psi come on around 3500 to 4k range


Turns out I was only getting 3/4 throttle. Apparently haven't had it ever since the aba swap. Got positive pressure at 3500, 6psi at 4K. 
It's always the dumb things. Feels a lot better. Now to add a boost control valve and crank it up to 11 (psi) and get some dyno time. 

Does anyone have experience with a .48 ar? Or would that choke it out too much on the top end? Looks like the t04e is good for 400 hp, which is way more than I am looking for. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fast2.0L (Oct 12, 1999)

I ran the .48 housing and it was the most fun since the torque was so instantaneous. Now when I built the bottom end and started running at 22-24PSI it became less desirable. It doesn't have ultimate top end but it still pulled to 7k with a 266 cam. The boost transition had some issues and I killed a lot of clutches and axles. The dyno showed gaining something like 200lb/ft of torque in 1000 rpm lol.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

monoaural said:


> Does anyone have experience with a .48 ar? Or would that choke it out too much on the top end? Looks like the t04e is good for 400 hp, which is way more than I am looking for.


I'm running a .48 now, but looking at going to a .63 T3/T4. 

The thing I have noticed is that other groups, like some Cobalt SS Turbo guys will run a PTE Turbo with a .48 AR on a 2.0 DOHC and make 400hp on it, and the guys in this thread definitely lean towards the .63 AR as the preferred housing. Typically it only spools a bit later, but can really reduce the exhaust pressure pre-turbo equating to more power at the same boost levels. 

It might just have to do with us having less to work with and needing to get the most out of it to compete.  

There is some in between housing, I seem to remember seeing a .57 out there.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Fast2.0L said:


> I ran the .48 housing and it was the most fun since the torque was so instantaneous. Now when I built the bottom end and started running at 22-24PSI it became less desirable. It doesn't have ultimate top end but it still pulled to 7k with a 266 cam. The boost transition had some issues and I killed a lot of clutches and axles. The dyno showed gaining something like 200lb/ft of torque in 1000 rpm lol.


I notice something similar, between 3500rpm and 4500rpm the power spike is violent, as it shoots up to 18psi fast! I want to run about 22psi next year, doing some changes this winter, and that's why I feel it's time to go away from the .48 housing.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

my .48 50trim made [email protected] 3600-3700 rpm
Max out 263whp @ 20psi getting compressor surge from my plumbing


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Quick question.

Can anybody tell me if I absolutely need that retainer clip for fuel rail to top of the injector? I just have OEM stock ABA fuel rail and intake manifold. I have a chance to get a great deal on some injectors, but they don't have that upper slot.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Looks like the ECS tuning Stage 1 clutch isn't enough for 5 psi. :banghead: Slips when I hammer down in 5th on the freeway. 
It's brand new, do you think I can just upgrade the pressure plate? Or since it has already been slipping should I just spend the extra 100 bucks?


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

monoaural said:


> Looks like the ECS tuning Stage 1 clutch isn't enough for 5 psi. :banghead: Slips when I hammer down in 5th on the freeway.
> It's brand new, do you think I can just upgrade the pressure plate? Or since it has already been slipping should I just spend the extra 100 bucks?


I thought slipping was exclusively a PP issue. Disc shouldn't affect that with enough clamping force. Unless the friction material needs to be upgraded to a compound with more grip?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

monoaural said:


> Looks like the ECS tuning Stage 1 clutch isn't enough for 5 psi. :banghead: Slips when I hammer down in 5th on the freeway.
> It's brand new, do you think I can just upgrade the pressure plate? Or since it has already been slipping should I just spend the extra 100 bucks?




Do you run an 020? If so I can't say enough good things about the Phoenix Friction guys. For the price, completely unbeatable, I talked to them twice on the phone, once the owner answered. Hell of a good guy! Ignore what they say about what it will hold for power, I think that has more to do with warranty than anything, I even talked to them and tried to convince they would sell more clutches if they would change the rating. Nothing ever came of it. I sprayed a 50hp Nitrous jetting at the car running 18psi, and slicks on a prepped track, that clutch NEVER slips! It's not the most street friendly, but I still daily it in summer. :thumbup:

Comes in small
http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-24...w-cabriolet-golf-jetta-rabbit-scirocco-8.aspx

and large spline
http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-24...eramic-clutch-kit-vw-cabrio-golf-jetta-8.aspx

And I've been running the same clutch since 2010, first G60 with nitrous and now crossflow turbo w/nitrous. At one point when I was G60, I put a 75hp jetting for a summer, it had to be making close to 300ft/lbs of torque mixed with the 68mm/15psi pulley. (especially since MkRad of SNS tuning put down 290ft/lbs with a G60 on just a 35hp jetting with the same pulley)

The pictures went dead, but 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4946975-Phoenix-Friction-vs-Centerforce-Vs-ACT-Clutch

Oh it also comes in Kevlar which should be more street friendly, but I have no experience with it. However I'm so happy with the other one, I personally wouldn't hesitate to try one.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

monoaural said:


> Turns out I was only getting 3/4 throttle. Apparently haven't had it ever since the aba swap. Got positive pressure at 3500, 6psi at 4K.
> It's always the dumb things. Feels a lot better. Now to add a boost control valve and crank it up to 11 (psi) and get some dyno time.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with a .48 ar? Or would that choke it out too much on the top end? Looks like the t04e is good for 400 hp, which is way more than I am looking for.
> ...


I like the .48AR. If you are only running 11psi i wouldn't go any bigger than a .48. 

Are you not running a head spacer or what?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> I like the .48AR. If you are only running 11psi i wouldn't go any bigger than a .48.
> 
> Are you not running a head spacer or what?


Trying to avoid opening the motor. Has around 200k on it, and don't want to put any money in the internals. I am going to do water injection in the future, hoping it will allow me run a few more lbs safely. 

Gonna check to see if the rear main is leaking, just doesn't feel right that the clutch is already slipping.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

monoaural said:


> Trying to avoid opening the motor. Has around 200k on it, and don't want to put any money in the internals. I am going to do water injection in the future, hoping it will allow me run a few more lbs safely.
> 
> Gonna check to see if the rear main is leaking, just doesn't feel right that the clutch is already slipping.


In that case, i wouldn't really even bother with running a bigger turbo. .48 is ok.

The bottom end is usually good. I would honestly crack it open and have it rebuilt. It is really cheap to do. I had mine rebuilt and they found a broken inner valve spring, so it was totally worth it. PLus, then you can run 15-20psi it is a whole different animal than 10-11 psi

What injectors and tune are you running?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> In that case, i wouldn't really even bother with running a bigger turbo. .48 is ok.
> 
> The bottom end is usually good. I would honestly crack it open and have it rebuilt. It is really cheap to do. I had mine rebuilt and they found a broken inner valve spring, so it was totally worth it. PLus, then you can run 15-20psi it is a whole different animal than 10-11 psi
> 
> What injectors and tune are you running?


Right now its a t04e 57 trim with a .63 hotside, bosch 440cc injectors and megasquirt. 
Next on the list is to get the heat exchanger and pump for the a/w. 
After that, I think I will get a .48 housing, and the solenoid for boost control via megasquirt. 

But of course, I have to figure out the clutch first.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Idk...if it were my car I wouldn't spend money on A/w and water meth now. I would invest in the head spacer and rebuilding the head as that money spent will be more horsepower to $. Especially since you are running a big ass turbo it only makes sense to go that route. 

Headspacer, Cam (276) and more boost and you will be way more happy than alternately spending money on w/m or awic and you will be able to actually turn the boost up safely and take advantage of those 440's


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

every time i go above 18 psi recently it starts burning oil pretty bad...not any blow by in my carch can. not sure what is going on right now


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> every time i go above 18 psi recently it starts burning oil pretty bad...not any blow by in my carch can. not sure what is going on right now


Got to be turbo seal, no? 

What inside the intercooler and I/C pipes? If they are not covered in oil then it's going out the turbine side and right into the exhaust.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> Got to be turbo seal, no?
> 
> What inside the intercooler and I/C pipes? If they are not covered in oil then it's going out the turbine side and right into the exhaust.


Yeah. going to investigate. Have had no time to do anything lately.

I just dont see how the seal would go bad already. Im running a restrictor and its a not even year old garrett. Not sure how boost pressures would push oil out....its fine at with anything under 18psi its weird.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I was thinking 18psi probably means you are revving it out and WOT, so maybe it's only pushing oil at over 4000rpm or whatever, when oil pressure would be up. 

How is the oil return line, nice clean shot? Not kinked or anything? Maybe it's not draining oil fast enough when there is 40psi + oil pressure.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Yeah, its smoking now today no matter what the psi is. I turned it down the other day and it stopped smoking, turned it up lastnight and it was lke a coal rolling truck. Probabally some factor im not seeing but it is def the turbo as it doesnt smoke at startup and it is definatley oil that is burning. The return line isnt kinked or anything and it is plenty big. i forget the size but its around a 3/8ths hose i believe.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

For those who are getting amped for the usrt k03/4 kit, I found this little vid on youtube. Its not apples to apples, but a 1.8l counterflow w/ a k04. From europe. Prob a g60 conversion who knows. Makes a shade over 300tq and 225 whp. Looks fun






In other news, my turbo is completely F*d. Bearings went out and compressor wheel contacted the housing.

I am broke at the moment so im probably just going to throw a $200 ebay special on it, then upgrade to a gt28 next season is my goal.


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## CTS Turbo (Oct 2, 2008)

Anyone want this 8V Turbo manifold to make a comeback?


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## Geno-Bob (Feb 7, 2006)

CTS Turbo said:


> Anyone want this 8V Turbo manifold to make a comeback?


I would love this. I am looking to go turbo and am looking for that exact manifold.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## CTS Turbo (Oct 2, 2008)

Geno-Bob said:


> I would love this. I am looking to go turbo and am looking for that exact manifold.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


We_* may be*_ bringing back the 8V manifolds, the process would be starting very shortly, so we'll try to post some teasers soon enough. :sly:


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## twinscrewcaddy (Mar 27, 2008)

wolfcastle said:


> In other news, my turbo is completely F*d. Bearings went out and compressor wheel contacted the housing.
> 
> I am broke at the moment so im probably just going to throw a $200 ebay special on it, then upgrade to a gt28 next season is my goal.




Same boat here. My ebay turbo seals went. debating another ebay special or something a little nicer. 57/63 t3/t4.

That mani remake looks like a great idea.
Maybe i would build another!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

This looks like it will it make using an OEM intake manifold impossible?


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

this is what i am doing right now!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Wish they would bring back the Kinetic back!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Anybody running this style manifold with a T04e compressor cover?










I was about to pick up a T04b, because of it's compact housing, but it doesn't look like it's a good fit for these engines performance wise. It's a turbo that moves a lot of CFM at a low pressure ratio, and these seem to want the opposite. Higher pressure ratio, with less lbs/min. Most of the plot on a my turbo calculator was on the wrong side of the surge line.  But switch the same setup info over onto a T04e turbo and the 40, 46, and 50 trim all look absolutely wonderful. 

But.......will it physically fit? My car is a mk2, pretty much solid motor mounts. I've already bashed in the firewall a bit to fit my straight T3. I can always get a bigger hammer, I just want to know if it's even possible.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I just purchased a gt2871r for that very reason g60Carat


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Wait, isn't a GT2871 a T04b compressor with a T25 turbine and a ball bearing CHRA?

So a GT2876 would be a T04e cover? (76mm exducer) and a GT2860 being a T3 compressor (60mm exducer). I mean the design might be updated some, but it can't be a total coincidence the exducer sizes line up almost perfectly with the old nomenclature.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I ordered mine in a 4 bolt t31 turbine housing. 71r is a b cover correct, not sure about 76r it seems like the housing would be larger but imnot sure. I thought the 76r would be overkill anyways


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Carat, here is a dimensional proportions of the two. You can see they are both the same size more or less. The 76 r is a little bit longer from CHRA to inlet but sizing wise in respect to the firewall they are the same. Liek 50 trim vs a 57 trim or something to that effect.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Here is a side by side b vs e cover. You can see just how much larger the e is. I'm telling you, i beat my firewall into oblivion and im not a weakling. I don't see how anyone could dent it in more than i could and my e cover was ~5mm from the firewall which i believe led to me cracking the hot side back in October when i went to a open lapping day. I could see contact marks on the wall from my cold side....and im running solid front with derilin mounts. I cannot wait to be able to downgrade my mounts back to like stage 1.

Anyways, the gt28 fits MUCH better. I am very happy overall with the fit and just need a few more bits (oil feed, return pieces) in order to crank it over and see how this turbo behaves. I got a .48 but may buy a .63 housing later. This turbo will eventually find its way on to my mk6.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Ughhhh that is big.

In the engine movement department I have a solid front mount, prothane engine side insert and Corrado solid rubber trans mount. Even that sucks, my A pillar trim rattles now, and the steering wheel buzzes my hands when the car is cold.

Once everything warms up its more tolerable, but I much preferred the OEM mounts.

*sigh* not sure where to go with it now. :-(


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> *sigh* not sure where to go with it now. :-(


GT series bro


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

How is everyone's IATs? Just finished up plumbing the air to water. Before, 55-60 mph cruise was around 100, beating on it 120 (with the stock closed element sensor). Now that the a/w has water running through it, and cooled by a zx6 radiator, it has dropped 20 degrees in all times. The air outside was in the mid 70s. Intake manifold was barely warm, and intercooler cool for the touch. 
Wondering if if was worth the extra money. The piping is way shorter, at least.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So I have killed another short block. This time with #2 coming rod saying hello. What rods are you all running? Also pistons? I'm thinking at this point to just build my spare block


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> So I have killed another short block. This time with #2 coming rod saying hello. What rods are you all running? Also pistons? I'm thinking at this point to just build my spare block


was your block obd1 or obd2?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

obd 2. But it broke at the wrist pin.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> obd 2. But it broke at the wrist pin.


Turn down for what! 

Guess you really do need those piston oil squirters?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> Turn down for what!
> 
> Guess you really do need those piston oil squirters?


eh. It broke the rod at the wrist been. I really need Pistons and rods haha. I would love stock bore replacement pistons. But those don't seem to exist. From what I have seen during the tear down of this motor and my old one the pistons are very worn. I really think if I did new stock piston I would have the skirts coated. I might just throw in another stock block and build my spare.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

What turbo at what kinda boost did that?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

60-1 @ 24psi


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

damn i hope that didnt trash your head also.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> 60-1 @ 24psi


How was that turbo on there? Any surge issues?


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Does your block have oil squirters dash? I have an obd1 German block with dish pistons and the block has yet to fail running 22 psi from a gt2871r knock on wood


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

wolfcastle said:


> damn i hope that didnt trash your head also.


bent a valve. 

I actually think the rod bolt snapped. I have more carnage pics tomorrow










The rod bolt snapped clean off.Part of the rod is still attached to the top of piston. 

This was an obd2 block. I already got everything swapped to the "new" Obd2 block. Head will be back from the machine shop tomorrow and all parts will be here Thursday.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

How did everyone who runs watercooled hook up their feed and return lines? 

Im planning on using the little nipple just north of the coolant flange that connects to the expansion tank. Will I get enough flow from this port? Or should i hack up my heater core line?


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## rabbitchaser (Sep 20, 2004)

Monoaural what pump are you using and how much hp, I would suggest at least a cobra pump, and I also added water wetter to the water I was running threw the intercooler, I also ran a coolant mix for a while. I had your same set up when my car was streetable

Dascoupe I'm now running i.e. rods and wiseco coated pistons, but you could also upgrade the rod bolts to arp's on the stock rods


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> I actually think the rod bolt snapped.


I've been told recently that VW rod bolts are not reusable, I mean I typically replace the rod bearings whenever I put a new bottom end in, and I've never replaced the bolts. But this incident has me wondering. :what:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> How did everyone who runs watercooled hook up their feed and return lines?
> 
> Im planning on using the little nipple just north of the coolant flange that connects to the expansion tank. Will I get enough flow from this port? Or should i hack up my heater core line?


I've been wondering this too. If you get the coolant flange on the side of the head for an Automatic car it has an extra port for coolant out. There would be lots of coolant flow there, but I'm not sure where to return it? But I think you could tie the return into the lower heater core hose.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

G60 Carat said:


> I've been wondering this too. If you get the coolant flange on the side of the head for an Automatic car it has an extra port for coolant out. There would be lots of coolant flow there, but I'm not sure where to return it? Bu I think you could tie the return into the lower heater core hose.


If i went that route, i would jsut run the heater core feed straight through the turbo then to the core itself. But, i think that little nipple should be enough flow...

I have everything to loop it from that nipple in my garage, so im gonig to try it out. Was jsut hoping for some input from those who dunit before. Not many people here are running ball bearing though it seems.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

rabbitchaser said:


> Monoaural what pump are you using and how much hp, I would suggest at least a cobra pump, and I also added water wetter to the water I was running threw the intercooler, I also ran a coolant mix for a while. I had your same set up when my car was streetable
> 
> Dascoupe I'm now running i.e. rods and wiseco coated pistons, but you could also upgrade the rod bolts to arp's on the stock rods



Cobra pump, straight water for now, no ice tank. Seems to keep the intercooler cool and most of the intake manifold with normal everyday driving. 
I will grab some pictures tonight.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rabbitchaser;94872721
Dascoupe I'm now running i.e. rods and wiseco coated pistons said:


> I would do this but I don't have the time to wait for the machine shop
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Hopefully that gives you an idea on the size of the heat exchanger/bike rad. It does extend down past the grill a bit, ends about a couple inches before the rad mount. 
I was thinking it was gonna be a bit wider, but it's hard to find dimensions of oem rads. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mark Morris (Dec 15, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> I've been told recently that VW rod bolts are not reusable, I mean I typically replace the rod bearings whenever I put a new bottom end in, and I've never replaced the bolts. But this incident has me wondering. :what:



You are correct, you should NOT reuse factory rod bolts. Always replace with a new set.


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## 2pt. slo (Jan 4, 2004)

CTS Turbo said:


> Anyone want this 8V Turbo manifold to make a comeback?


Man that pic was from so long ago. :beer:. Do it!


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

If your running and air to water intercooler you can t off a small hose to the turbo . I have my water fees t off to the in coming water and I have the hot water leaving the turbo t off to the hot water leaving the awic . Then it goes threw the heat exchanger. I've tested my temps on vag and my temp are the same as it was prior to running the water into the turbo. Turbo stay much cooler. And cools alit faster ivc been running it this way for 2 years without issue


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

cifdig said:


> If your running and air to water intercooler you can t off a small hose to the turbo . I have my water fees t off to the in coming water and I have the hot water leaving the turbo t off to the hot water leaving the awic . Then it goes threw the heat exchanger. I've tested my temps on vag and my temp are the same as it was prior to running the water into the turbo. Turbo stay much cooler. And cools alit faster ivc been running it this way for 2 years without issue


Thats actually a really good idea. Im not running AWIC though. Maybe sometime in the future i would consider this option


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Hey fellas I know this is the aba turbo thread, but honestly this is about the only thread I religiously follow on vortex anymore. I need help identifying this "mk3" axle I pulled from the junkyard. Also I need to know why the hell it longer than my last axle I got from them lol. The axle with the damper is in question.

Axle is for an aba swapped mk1/a1


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Axle below is a mk1 axle with the 100mm inner swapped on to it.


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## CTS Turbo (Oct 2, 2008)

2pt. slo said:


> Man that pic was from so long ago. :beer:. Do it!












Hoping to have these ready to go later this summer. :beer:


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## luckash (Jan 3, 2015)




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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

very nice


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

that looks like a beefy manifold.

My advice is to brace the manifold from underneath to the block. (maybe you already considered)
IMO it will likely crack over time at the flanges on the head, that has been my experience.
Good luck, nice build. :thumbup:


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## 2point0jetta (Jul 22, 2009)

Nice to see all the aba turbo builds lately. It gives me some motivation to finish my build even quicker. I have a couple of questions. I have arp head studs and arp rod bolts. Should I get arp main studs also or are they not needed? Another thing I plan on building the head and I'm stuck between a 276 cam (for boosted motors) or the 288 cam from tt. Is there any advantages with going with the 288 or just go with the 276? Thanks


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## Fast2.0L (Oct 12, 1999)

2point0jetta said:


> Nice to see all the aba turbo builds lately. It gives me some motivation to finish my build even quicker. I have a couple of questions. I have arp head studs and arp rod bolts. Should I get arp main studs also or are they not needed? Another thing I plan on building the head and I'm stuck between a 276 cam (for boosted motors) or the 288 cam from tt. Is there any advantages with going with the 288 or just go with the 276? Thanks


If the bottom end is fully built then do the ARP mains while you're in there. If not, I haven't heard of the mains failing below 400hp. If you're looking at those cams I assume you have aftermarket fuel injection like Megasquirt and are trying to make over 300hp. Personally for a 50 trim I like the 266 up to ~300hp. The 276 doesn't do much other than narrow the powerband and cause more lag (The 288 would be even worse). If you're running a track focused car with a large turbo, and big A\R then the 276 starts to make sense.


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## 2point0jetta (Jul 22, 2009)

Fast2.0L said:


> If the bottom end is fully built then do the ARP mains while you're in there. If not, I haven't heard of the mains failing below 400hp. If you're looking at those cams I assume you have aftermarket fuel injection like Megasquirt and are trying to make over 300hp. Personally for a 50 trim I like the 266 up to ~300hp. The 276 doesn't do much other than narrow the powerband and cause more lag (The 288 would be even worse). If you're running a track focused car with a large turbo, and big A\R then the 276 starts to make sense.


I would be happy with anything around 280hp. I'm just going to use a standard tune from UM with there stage 2 software. I have most of everything to finish the build just need to find out what size turbo I want to run and what cam I'm going to use.


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## Fast2.0L (Oct 12, 1999)

2point0jetta said:


> I would be happy with anything around 280hp. I'm just going to use a standard tune from UM with there stage 2 software. I have most of everything to finish the build just need to find out what size turbo I want to run and what cam I'm going to use.


What are you going to use the car for?

*Street - T3/T4 50 trim .48 A/R with a TT266 cam.* 
It's torquey, responsive, less lag and the most fun to drive and quickest from a roll. Many people have gotten 260+whp on this setup, I've made over 280whp with standalone on this setup. 

*Track - T3/T4 50 or 60 trim .63 or .84 A/R with TT276 and custom intake manifold*
Boost comes on later with more lag, less low end torque with a smoother boost transition. Possible to see ~270whp with this setup before running out of fuel with a chip tune and smaller injectors. Increased top end, and harder to stay in boost without the right gearing (You'll loose a street race if you're not in the right gear, but you'll be the faster at the track).


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Got my gt2871r all hooked up and running.

I used the water line that goes from the head to the expansion tank to cool the turbo. When i turn the car off though, i can hear the water boiling in the turbo and entering the coolant ball, and evaporating out of the expansion port.....i need to get some sort of aux water pump or something to keep the coolant moving after shutoff.

The water boils no matter how hard i drive it also....i let it idle for 5-10 minutes last-night and then shutoff and it was still boiling a bit. It's just a bit of steam rising from the ball but that it. If i restart the car and coolant flows it doesn't boil out at all....its strange.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Fast2.0L said:


> What are you going to use the car for?
> 
> *Street - T3/T4 50 trim .48 A/R with a TT266 cam.*
> It's torquey, responsive, less lag and the most fun to drive and quickest from a roll. Many people have gotten 260+whp on this setup, I've made over 280whp with standalone on this setup.
> ...



What's "small injectors"? I'm switching to standalone and 48lbs/500cc injectors. Are these too small?


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## 2point0jetta (Jul 22, 2009)

Fast2.0L said:


> What are you going to use the car for?
> 
> *Street - T3/T4 50 trim .48 A/R with a TT266 cam.*
> It's torquey, responsive, less lag and the most fun to drive and quickest from a roll. Many people have gotten 260+whp on this setup, I've made over 280whp with standalone on this setup.
> ...


Kind of a mix between really it will still be driven on the street/to shows but not a daily. Here is what I have so far.
Obd 1 Motor w/Forged Internals
Cast Manifold with External Wastegate 
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Arp Rod Bolts
Arp Head Studs
Usrt Short Runner
440cc Green Top Injectors
And some other odds and ends.

Just to give you an idea in the direction I'm going.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*500cc*

Thats what im running right now 52# denso injectors cis fuel pump,sri,ram horn manifold and t3/t4 turbo .48 stage3 wheel. Lets see what it does!!


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

G60 Carat said:


> What's "small injectors"? I'm switching to standalone and 48lbs/500cc injectors. Are these too small?


I got some 750cc injectors I used on my setup a few years back... I'll sell em stupid cheap  
Won't run out of fuel with those on an ABA easily


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## Fast2.0L (Oct 12, 1999)

G60 Carat said:


> What's "small injectors"? I'm switching to standalone and 48lbs/500cc injectors. Are these too small?


With chip tunes they typically use the green top 440cc injectors which max out around 300hp. So there's not really a point to running a larger turbo if you can't fuel the extra power. Now if you have stand alone you can run any size injector you want and you can take advantage of the additional power from a bigger turbo.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

About ready to go back in. A ton of new parts and upgraded stuff. Also I finally drilled and tapped the compressor outlet after all these year










Arp head studs, arp rods, rings, bearings, seals, new oil pump, stacked gaskets, ported head, comp valve job, at 270 cam, dual valve springs, and a 57 trim. Pretty much the same setup I have run for years but with Rod bolts now!:laugh: Going to break it in on Liqui moly 10w40 Ms02 then switching to Redline 10w40. 

Going back to open wastegate dump too until my new manifold is ready. Run 15-18 psi now. Going back to Sebring in May. I use to loosen the wastegate bolts, now that I re routed it loosens the turbo ones :banghead:


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Das*

What are your turbo specs?trim a/r and a/r hot?


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

rodperformance said:


> What are your turbo specs?trim a/r and a/r hot?


57 trim I think lol. Might be a 60 trim. Don't remember. 60/63 ars


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

Car is running. My Vacuum gauge is reading really low (10-11). I have an adjustable cam gear and a g60 valve cover. So i am going off What I think is TDC on the cam( lopes up on number 1). I always had at least 18 prior.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Daskoupe said:


> Car is running. My Vacuum gauge is reading really low (10-11). I have an adjustable cam gear and a g60 valve cover. So i am going off What I think is TDC on the cam( lopes up on number 1). I always had at least 18 prior.


What cam?

When I had stock (G60 cam) I was -18hg, as soon as the Schirck 272 went in, it went to -11/-12. Runs and drives fine, I've tripple checked everything the first time around and it was all good. It's been apart a ton of times since then, and always the same result. I just figure that's the idle vacuum with that cam.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

autotech 270.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I get like -12-13 with a 268/260 @ 5500ft above sea level and a c2 head gasket spacer


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I'm pulling the valve cover now and checking it again. I was at 18-21 with this same setup


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Daskoupe said:


> I'm pulling the valve cover now and checking it again. I was at 18-21 with this same setup


Your timing may have been more further advanced. Did you get the cyl head resurfaced also? could be a combination of the two.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Timing*

The same happened to me and i always fit the plastic piece on the aba head trim for that same reason,set timing with aba marker then fit the valve cover,later Roderick.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

wolfcastle said:


> Your timing may have been more further advanced. Did you get the cyl head resurfaced also? could be a combination of the two.


I retarded it with the adjustable gear. Good to go now:thumbup:


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Wolf*

True what wolfcasttle said,dont remember fully but for every 10 thou of skimming .5-1 degree of cam timming should be adjusted.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Do you guys think that a pre 02 sensor exhaust leak would cause a misfire?


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Daskoupe said:


> So I have killed another short block. This time with #2 coming rod saying hello. What rods are you all running? Also pistons? I'm thinking at this point to just build my spare block


Pauter rods and wiseco pistons. The pistons have the 2mm pin off set like factory. When I have an issue with the rods I sent them to pauter. Cheers! Bern


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

jettatech said:


> Pauter rods and wiseco pistons. The pistons have the 2mm pin off set like factory. When I have an issue with the rods I sent them to pauter. Cheers! Bern


already got it back together haha. But I'll keep that in mind for the next time:laugh:


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Here is the point that everyone said I would be at, but I am still on the fence:
About to book some dyno time for caddy. Currently at 10 psi with a t04e 57 trim with stock compression. I have access to a cheap headgasket spacer. 
Will it kill my off boost power? I figure if I sprend the money for a dyno tune, might as well make it for 18-20 psi vs 10-12. But since boost starts coming on at 3k, I am worried that it will push the boost farther back in the rev range, and make off boost even slower. 
So, moderately larger turbo guys, how is driving on the street with a spacer?


----------



## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> Do you guys think that a pre 02 sensor exhaust leak would cause a misfire?


It's possible. Because the maf is reading a certain amount of air coming in so the ecu delivers fuel accordingly , but now the exhuast /spent gases are escaping before the o2 sensor can read it throwing off the mixed fuel ratio because it's trying to compensate, any leak can cause a mis fire, vaccum hoses, exhuast leaked pre o2 etc. not saying it's gonna fix your misfire but that's deff a prob. I know because I just had a bolt snap on cyl #1 cause a small leak which causes me to spool a tad later and lose top end power with some misfire, as soon as I fixed it problem solved. Using bkre8 split fire running 21 psi 63 hot side on a gt28/76


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I had a pretty bad crack on my DP. Got it welded up and back on. Still misfires. 

It runs good on like 15psi. I have my plugs gaped at .26 brk7e. When i have them gaped at .22 is misfires only slightly less severely at elevated boost levels. 

Any time its above 17-18psi range it runs like poo, also it misfires worse on the first few WOT attempts. If im just cruising on the highway for say 2 miles, then floor it it will misfire. I back off the throttle, try again and it doesn't misfire. It is weird....i'm thinking it may be timing related as i'm only holding 11-12 hg/vac at idle and am running a TT 268/260 cam. 

I'm going to regap down to .22, and give my timing a look again. With the head spacer it advanced it maybe half a tooth from what i remember. If this is the case, i'm going to buy a adj. cam gear and retard it back a few degrees.


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

cifdig said:


> It's possible. Because the maf is reading a certain amount of air coming in so the ecu delivers fuel accordingly , but now the exhuast /spent gases are escaping before the o2 sensor can read it throwing off the mixed fuel ratio because it's trying to compensate, any leak can cause a mis fire, vaccum hoses, exhuast leaked pre o2 etc. not saying it's gonna fix your misfire but that's deff a prob. I know because I just had a bolt snap on cyl #1 cause a small leak which causes me to spool a tad later and lose top end power with some misfire, as soon as I fixed it problem solved. Using bkre8 split fire running 21 psi 63 hot side on a gt28/76


O2 doesn't count total gasses, only O2. only time a pre O2 leak would cause problem is at idle, drawing unburned O2 in between the exhaust pulses and past the sensor. after idle I thought the exhaust was positive pressure so no air would come in, only exhaust out. That's what I thought atleast.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> I had a pretty bad crack on my DP. Got it welded up and back on. Still misfires.
> 
> It runs good on like 15psi. I have my plugs gaped at .26 brk7e. When i have them gaped at .22 is misfires only slightly less severely at elevated boost levels.
> 
> ...



What coil and what management?


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

UM. i had a huco which tested fine with the multimeter. i tested the wiring to the coil and only a small voltage drop. I even replaced the coil with a $150 vw one from dealearship like a month back....no changes. At this point i dont believe the problem to be ignition related unless the distributer itself is bad


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Also on like 15psi which is my WG spring, it will misfire bad on all 4 cyl on the first WOT attempt. It will usually misfire again on the 2nd wot attempt in the higher rev range. Then on the 3rd attempt it will run fine.....its like a sensor needs to warm up or it is trying to throw timing and it just cant handle it? According to my AFR gauge im at 11:5-12:1 during the time of the misfire events...

Last night i tightened up my timing belt as the tensioner rotated or the belt just stretched a tad there was some slack in it, so hopefully that fixes all of it. If not, im taking it to a shop to run some logs and just pay to have it diagnosed correctly. The motor is on time and has been but the slack in the belt may have just thrown it off enough to mess everything up....that's what im hoping anyways.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Hmmm 

On the flip side of the coin, how good is the block/head ground? Energy in, needs a place to go right? 

Also if your on standalone dwell and spark duration are a big factor in getting everything out of the coil.


----------



## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I checked the ground on the coil and harness and it was good.

Im not running the mk2 grounding strap that goes from the coil to the valve cover. I used to run it and it made no change when removed.

Im on a UM tune as of now. I used to have a C2 tune though and they run almost identical....though the C2 chip would run AFR of about 12-12.5 and the UM is 11.5-12. In regards to the misfire though there is no difference between the two


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

It's very easy for our distributor caps and rotor to toast. When I have a miss fire that doesn't go away I get new plugs wires cap, rotor and the problem gets solved . I noticed when I purchase aftermarket cap and rotor they go fast. I'm running msd wires which are great.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

syncrogti said:


> O2 doesn't count total gasses, only O2. only time a pre O2 leak would cause problem is at idle, drawing unburned O2 in between the exhaust pulses and past the sensor. after idle I thought the exhaust was positive pressure so no air would come in, only exhaust out. That's what I thought atleast.


Maybe your right, I always thought the second 02 on a um tune is non functional at wot and that the first 02 is funtional at wot, been so long I may be off. Either way I had um make my chip with the second 02 deleted so I only have 1 02 on my obd2


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

I got a new exhaust manifold finally. I'll update next as it goes on. It's a prototype log style manifold.


----------



## Cjp2595 (Feb 10, 2013)

This is my aba turbo set up no clue what power it's going to make and the turbo is way to small planing on changing the turbo eventually when I save up some money 



6 psi boost pull

[video]http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/cjp2595/media/Mobile%20Uploads/18AB5885-0C5A-4643-A49A-923FCA2D8CB1_zpsc0w3ei4x.mp4.html[/video]

Build video 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UAa7w8frc50

List of mods 

Stock compression 
techtonics tuning ( TT ) 260 cam, 
ported upper and lower intake manfold
Magnaflow muffler
2 1/4 inch cat back exhaust
Nology hot wires and NGK Iridium IX spark plug
high flow magnaflow cat
techtonics tuning ( TT ) ecu chip
Bfi motor mounts
peloquin LSD
Audi s4 1.8t ko3s turbo
gfb Electronic boost controller
Front mount intercooler 
2 1/2 inch downpipe
1.8t injectors
AEM Air fule ratio gauge 
Coil overs 
Polyurethane bushings 
Drilled rotors 
Stage 2 South Bend clutch and lightweight
7-10 psi boost
Big valves 41 mm intake 33.5 exhaust turbo valves (installing)
Head gasket (installing)
New cam lifters (installing)
arp head studs (installing)
440 cc injectors (installing)
255 fule pump (installing)
Fix transmission (installing)
stage 2 c2 Motorsports tune (installing)
18psi boost soon


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## 1slowVW (Sep 28, 2005)

Did a whole lot of wiring clean up over the winter. Also put in a 6 puck clutch and have a MBC and SRI sitting on the shelf to go in soon.
I fully intend to max out my red tops this year. Wideband is installed and I plan on adding boost until it goes lean and then turning it back about 1psi.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

1slowVW said:


> http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq304/1slowvw/IMG_0512_zpsp8kooshl.jpg
> Wideband is installed and I plan on adding boost until it goes lean and then turning it back about 1psi.


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## Daskoupe (Oct 9, 2006)

So if you guys are still in the market for an affordable manifold I had one of these whipped up by the Nubworks man! Message me if you want one!



















This is for my road race car/daily. I'll be installing it this month and then tracking it in September


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Finally got some dyno tuning. Too bad it was over 100 degrees, couldn't put any more boost into it. Apparently under boost I was really close to the limit on timing under boost with my street tune. Garret t04e 57trim, a/w intercooler, completely stock obd1 long block with over 200k. 
First run 10psi:








Final result 13psi









By the time we were ready to start dialing up the boost, the intercooler was completely heat soaked. 
Also need a cam. 
Any thoughts on why it gets so choppy up top? Valve float?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I could use some camshaft advice fellows.

I'm reassembling my engine right now, and there are 2 camshafts at my disposal. One is a BBM 268/260 (made by TT I believe) the other is a Schrick 272. 

Turbo is a T3/T04e 46 trim on the comp side, .63 turbine. 

Any experience in these 2, or is it just up to me to play around? I think I also have a straight 268 still installed in a spare motor in the corner.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*G60 carat*

Hi joe!! I would stick with the 272*advanced 3*


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Wellit's been a while since I've been on here. Life hit me pretty hard this past 8 months and my car has gone untouched. I was having an issue that I thought was in my fueling but didnt have time or mental state to really dig into. I rebuilt this car essentially from the ground up minus the engine itself. Still the same block and head from nearly 10 years ago when i built it the first time. 

So due to legal issues I was forced from my home under false allegations of domestic violence and my car sat there for 6 months while i put my life on the right path. I got my **** together and am about 99% done with my divorce. The smoke eventually started to clear and I got my motivation back for the car as soon as the weather broke here in the northeast.

I ditched my external 255lph piggy back pump and replaced it with a filter. I then put a 255lph intank pump in the car. I then took my piece of **** ev-14 550cc injectors out and replaced them with good old green top 42lb injectors. i started her up and it was like heaven. Ran perfectly, hopped in it and drove around, hit the car wash for a nice power washing, came home and waxed her. I then messed with my tune a bit to be sure I was in the safe range for my timing, boost, and fueling combination. Finally had time after a busy weekend to take it for a serious drive yesterday. The boost giggles came back and i really was just happy to be cruising my car with the windows down through the back roads.

At 15lbs it is flying like a bat outta hell on a very conservative tune. I cant wait to get it on the dyno and really tune it.

The last time it was dyno'd it made 240hp on 13lbs. That was before the autotech 270 cam and new Turbonetics turbo I have on there now. Dyno should come within the next few weeks. 

Here's a few pics of the car from the other night.




















Ignore the wiring, I had to quickly crimp in a set of EV-1 connectors from the EV-6 connectors i had in there. They will be properly soldered and hidden under the manifold. 
Raintray is in it as well.









Here is a past picture of the setup when it was in my 87 Jetta.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Nice setup!

Top mount manifold? Is that a SPA unit?


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

G60 Carat said:


> Nice setup!
> 
> Top mount manifold? Is that a SPA unit?


Sure is. Technically its a bottom mount for a counterflow 8v. I just flipped it over to make it a top mount. I cut off the flanges for the 3 bolt wastegate, modified the wastegate hole, and tapped another hole to bolt a 2 bolt wastegate to it. I currently have a 36mm Tial on there.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*276 cam!*

Hi guys &gals!have anyone dyno the 276*wlc with and without the cam? Curently i have a 268*tt straight cam and just bought the 276*. Just looking for power increase with that cam!! Later Roderick.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

rodperformance said:


> Hi guys &gals!have anyone dyno the 276*wlc with and without the cam? Curently i have a 268*tt straight cam and just bought the 276*. Just looking for power increase with that cam!! Later Roderick.


i am interested too. i have the 268 and am considering going to the 276 wlc.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Guinea pig*

I guess i'll be te test subject!! Will see how it goes. I was thinking of doing a non intercooled on methanol @10psi and then 15psi depending on iat and wideband readings to make a double test,first 268*cam no i/c 10 and 15 psi then go back the next week and do the same on the 276wlc.


----------



## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*My setup as of june 30!!*

 its not show room but i did it my self with good friends and advice from needavr6,das,quintin,joe and many others!!


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

rodperformance said:


> Hi guys &gals!have anyone dyno the 276*wlc with and without the cam? Curently i have a 268*tt straight cam and just bought the 276*. Just looking for power increase with that cam!! Later Roderick.


Im running an Autotech 270. 

0.449" lift. Duration: 270°, 112° lobe center


These are the specs on the 276...

.449 lift, duration 234, 110 lobe centers

In theory the 276 will be better for boost because it has less duration... buttttt. with such similar cams you need to dyno test them for your particular setup. We are running custom stuff here. There is no baseline for performance. we are in another world.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Damn spooling sorry to hear about the hardship. **** it..life goes on. Car looks great! Engine bay is on point.

Question for anyone running a scirocco top fill rad...what did you guys do as far as an overflow? I was thinking about running an inline, but I wanted to consult the gurus before I did.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Damn spooling sorry to hear about the hardship. **** it..life goes on. Car looks great! Engine bay is on point.
> 
> Question for anyone running a scirocco top fill rad...what did you guys do as far as an overflow? I was thinking about running an inline, but I wanted to consult the gurus before I did.


I suggest a simple one way over flow canister. It isnt going to push anything out unless you over heat it. So i suggest a one way catch can of some sort. You can get a simple barbed hose style one from ebay from pretty cheap. 

this one is $60

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weapon-R-82...ash=item3ab7b360c3:g:URIAAOSwpzdWsVUx&vxp=mtr










and an even cheaper one for 15

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BILLET-ALUM...ash=item2edb617863:g:jvcAAOSwMmBV4JEJ&vxp=mtr


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

That's actually nice for $15!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Those catch cans with the level indicator will hold zero pressure. Just my .02.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Damn spooling sorry to hear about the hardship. **** it..life goes on. Car looks great! Engine bay is on point.
> 
> Question for anyone running a scirocco top fill rad...what did you guys do as far as an overflow? I was thinking about running an inline, but I wanted to consult the gurus before I did.


Perhaps you are talking about a different 'rocco rad, but on mine, the side of the radiator is the overflow. Been running mine for about a year now, no problems, even with dyno pulls on an over 100 degree day. Just capped the lines going to the stock overflow.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> Im running an
> 
> Autotech 270:
> 
> ...


Make sure you'regiving out the correct info.

I revised your above statement.

The wider lobe centers are what makes it better for boost. BE AWARE THERE ARE TWO VERSIONS OF THE TT 276. The wide lobe center is what the turbo guys will want. The longer duration allowed for a wider powerband up top. When i had that cam made by [email protected] i needed a cam that allowed my engine to utilize the full potential of the turbo and breath above 7k. With the TT266/AT270 cams, power would fall off around 6800rpms even with a equal length ramhorn turbo manifold and Long runner intake manifold. The wide LC 276 kept most of the midrange of the TT266 and added SUBSTANTIAL improvement up top. Butt dyno said an easy 20~30whp at 25psi on a 54mm compressor. (Your results may vary)


----------



## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

monoaural said:


> Perhaps you are talking about a different 'rocco rad, but on mine, the side of the radiator is the overflow. Been running mine for about a year now, no problems, even with dyno pulls on an over 100 degree day. Just capped the lines going to the stock overflow.


I though so too...I did a few pulls a few nights ago and noticed temps go high for a short period of time. When the night was over I popped the hood and noticed coolant around the cap. Got me thinking I need an overflow for when there is excess pressure


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Make sure you'regiving out the correct info.
> 
> I revised your above statement.
> 
> The wider lobe centers are what makes it better for boost. BE AWARE THERE ARE TWO VERSIONS OF THE TT 276. The wide lobe center is what the turbo guys will want. The longer duration allowed for a wider powerband up top. When i had that cam made by [email protected] i needed a cam that allowed my engine to utilize the full potential of the turbo and breath above 7k. With the TT266/AT270 cams, power would fall off around 6800rpms even with a equal length ramhorn turbo manifold and Long runner intake manifold. The wide LC 276 kept most of the midrange of the TT266 and added SUBSTANTIAL improvement up top. Butt dyno said an easy 20~30whp at 25psi on a 54mm compressor. (Your results may vary)


i was under the impression that a longer duration would increase the amount of overlap thus blowing boost through the head. My thought was that a higher lift and lower duration would "trap" more boost inside the cylinder (the higher lift compensating for the decrease in duration). 

What you are saying makes sense though. And as i said we have all got custom setups here for the most part so yes results will vary significantly. My Autotech 270 is absolutely amazing. Only think I could wish for was a bit more torque down low. Above 3500 the car is outstanding and all the way though 6500- 6800 rpm its unreal.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

wolfcastle said:


> Those catch cans with the level indicator will hold zero pressure. Just my .02.


Doesnt need to hold any pressure. Just a catch can.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Wlc 276*

I will dyno a 268*tt cam and then fit the 276 wlc,will see if we are able to pullit off!! The statement of bigger duration does give more overlap,but Quintin was clever enough to spread the lobe center angle which is 114 instead of 110 lca from the regular 276*. By spreading the lobe center angle what tipicaly happens is you get a better idle,less peak torque and a wide horsepower band. Also your power is less with such wide spread lca but more linear,midrange torque can be taylored with a programable ecu following lean best torque and rich best torque values. Dang the spirit of 911 fan got into me!!jajajaja paging Mr 911!! Travis are you there?later guys,Roderick.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rodperformance said:


> I will dyno a 268*tt cam and then fit the 276 wlc,will see if we are able to pullit off!! The statement of bigger duration does give more overlap,but Quintin was clever enough to spread the lobe center angle which is 114 instead of 110 lca from the regular 276*. By spreading the lobe center angle what tipicaly happens is you get a better idle,less peak torque and a wide horsepower band. Also your power is less with such wide spread lca but more linear,midrange torque can be taylored with a programable ecu following lean best torque and rich best torque values. Dang the spirit of 911 fan got into me!!jajajaja paging Mr 911!! Travis are you there?later guys,Roderick.


That's EXACTLY what i felt. Softer midrange, MUCH improved topend. I wouldn't trade it for anything given the short gears of the 2.0  eace:


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

monoaural said:


> Finally got some dyno tuning. Too bad it was over 100 degrees, couldn't put any more boost into it. Apparently under boost I was really close to the limit on timing under boost with my street tune. Garret t04e 57trim, a/w intercooler, completely stock obd1 long block with over 200k.
> First run 10psi:
> 
> 
> ...


Its the Fueling going lean and kooky dump more fuel at it up top at full boost and see if it helps

Glad to see everyone is still at it


----------



## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Crazy inconsistent Fueling VS Better More stable fueling.....Perhaps someday I will return to the Fun.....:beer:Cheers Mates:beer:


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Spark*

What spark plugs are you running,gap?could be misfire due to a blown spark,usually we run 22-26 spark gap bkr7e plugs! Thise waves show inconsistency in burn rate due to spark or fueling like salsagti said.


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rodperformance said:


> What spark plugs are you running,gap?could be misfire due to a blown spark,usually we run 22-26 spark gap bkr6e plugs! Thise waves show inconsistency in burn rate due to spark or fueling like salsagti said.


ahhh step it down to a 7e crazy man! Or i recommend Brisk Racing Silvers. I absolutely LOVE them. Opened my gap up to .032 which resulted in MUCH better throttle response compared to the BKR7E @.025 :beer:


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Salsa GTI said:


> Its the Fueling going lean and kooky dump more fuel at it up top at full boost and see if it helps
> 
> Glad to see everyone is still at it





rodperformance said:


> What spark plugs are you running,gap?could be misfire due to a blown spark,usually we run 22-26 spark gap bkr7e plugs! Thise waves show inconsistency in burn rate due to spark or fueling like salsagti said.





[email protected] said:


> ahhh step it down to a 7e crazy man! Or i recommend Brisk Racing Silvers. I absolutely LOVE them. Opened my gap up to .032 which resulted in MUCH better throttle response compared to the BKR7E @.025 :beer:


Just looked at the logs. AFR from 5-6k started at 11.9 and rolled down to 10.8. There is some wavy-ness to the chart, but the afr is choppy throughout the whole log.

I have brk7e's at .025 right now, but they have been in for while, so who knows what they are at now. (I am not sure at what miles I put them in, but they may be nearing 10k).

Stock obd1 coil, with a nominal dwell of 3.1ms and spark duration of 1.0ms. (Megasquirt's strength is also a weakness, so many options)

About to order new plugs, had the truck out this weekend, and it is misfiring when it goes over ~10psi. Gonna look into these brisk plugs.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

I know I'm gonna get a lot of hate for this because im not on the NGK spark plug train... but I have been using Autolite copper core FSI plugs at .025 for a long time now and I have never fouled one. I usually replace them just as a form of habit. They are always clean and good when i pull them though. Car pulls nice and smooth, no hiccups, no inconsistent power.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

So I had my Downpipe and exhaust made from standard exhaust piping and its starting to get a bit of surface rust on it. Any advice on coatings whether it be ceramic or HVT paint? I think i will then heat wrap the exhaust. Just curious as to the type of solutions you guys have come to. I dont want to be replacing my downpipe in a couple years after the welds blow from rust.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I used VHT header paint. So far it's held up perfectly. (3 years, lots of wicked high temps)


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> I know I'm gonna get a lot of hate for this because im not on the NGK spark plug train... but I have been using Autolite copper core FSI plugs at .025 for a long time now and I have never fouled one. I usually replace them just as a form of habit. They are always clean and good when i pull them though. Car pulls nice and smooth, no hiccups, no inconsistent power.


No you wont, just like the NGKs, they work. They aren't the best. When i discovered the Brisk plugs i never looked back. Had leaky valve seals for 20k miles and never fouled them out and the gap was still @.032 when i checked them. AMAZING plugs. The larger the gap capable, THE BETTER.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Having a real hard time spooling a T3/T04e .63 (with 1.8 9:1 bottom end end) 

Looking for a check list to go over. It's not just a late spool, it comes in only at high rpm (over 4000) and then boost slowly comes up with revs from there. But with the old T3 .42/.48 at about 4000rpm it would all rush in to preset boost number. Which in 2nd gear would totally knock the tires off. Now I'm lucky to even get to 15psi in 2nd gear before it runs out of revs. It also not smashing the tires off in 2nd.

Any advice for things I should look at would be great I'm planning on adding more wastegate preload (It's internal wastegate) then a boost leak test


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> No you wont, just like the NGKs, they work. They aren't the best. When i discovered the Brisk plugs i never looked back. Had leaky valve seals for 20k miles and never fouled them out and the gap was still @.032 when i checked them. AMAZING plugs. The larger the gap capable, THE BETTER.


Looks like there are a lot of options for the brisk. Do you have a part number of the ones you were using? 
They do range in price from expensive to your choice of leg.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

G60 Carat said:


> I used VHT header paint. So far it's held up perfectly. (3 years, lots of wicked high temps)


Awesome I'm going to give this a shot thanks!



[email protected] said:


> No you wont, just like the NGKs, they work. They aren't the best. When i discovered the Brisk plugs i never looked back. Had leaky valve seals for 20k miles and never fouled them out and the gap was still @.032 when i checked them. AMAZING plugs. The larger the gap capable, THE BETTER.


I havent heard of those but hey what works right is whats right. Getting kinda hard to find those NGK's these days anyway (at least in my area) which is one reason i went with the FSI plugs. 



G60 Carat said:


> Having a real hard time spooling a T3/T04e .63 (with 1.8 9:1 bottom end end)
> 
> Looking for a check list to go over. It's not just a late spool, it comes in only at high rpm (over 4000) and then boost slowly comes up with revs from there. But with the old T3 .42/.48 at about 4000rpm it would all rush in to preset boost number. Which in 2nd gear would totally knock the tires off. Now I'm lucky to even get to 15psi in 2nd gear before it runs out of revs. It also not smashing the tires off in 2nd.
> 
> Any advice for things I should look at would be great I'm planning on adding more wastegate preload (It's internal wastegate) then a boost leak test


Are you 100% positive your wastegate isnt slowly actuating and bleeding exhaust gasses? Can you hear it "pop" open or no?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

monoaural said:


> Looks like there are a lot of options for the brisk. Do you have a part number of the ones you were using?
> They do range in price from expensive to your choice of leg.


DR*14*YS is the heat range equivalent the the BKR*7*E. They are what i run.

No they're not cheap but they also like 5~6times longer than a NGK and that's being conservative :beer:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> Are you 100% positive your wastegate isnt slowly actuating and bleeding exhaust gasses? Can you hear it "pop" open or no?


Went through the car, added more wastegate preload, and did a boost leak. Found 1 small leak, not substantial enough to be the issue. Drove the car around a lot today, and it answered itself. Sprayed oil all over my I/C pipes (out a baffled catch can) which it has never done before. Compression test shows 100/120/100/120. 

I'm going with cooked bottom end, either ringlands again or maybe just rings. Have 2 replacement bottom ends in the garage, so here we go again. :-/


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## Radmobile2.0 (Mar 27, 2005)

Need some help with my setup. It's an obd2 aba swapped in to a mk1. Running a new c2 chip with green top injectors. Got the car to fire and idle but getting random misfires and a/r goes to 16-19 when you Rev it. Spark plugs are new and gapped. Seems to have healthy vacuum so I don't think it's a vacuum leak. So what could cause these random misfires and lean conditions. Any help appreciated.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Assuming all your sensors are working and your car has all the provisions for the tune i would look at fuel pressure as a possibility. You can also do basic things like unplug the maf and see what happens. Thats where i would start


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

G60 Carat said:


> Went through the car, added more wastegate preload, and did a boost leak. Found 1 small leak, not substantial enough to be the issue. Drove the car around a lot today, and it answered itself. Sprayed oil all over my I/C pipes (out a baffled catch can) which it has never done before. Compression test shows 100/120/100/120.
> 
> I'm going with cooked bottom end, either ringlands again or maybe just rings. Have 2 replacement bottom ends in the garage, so here we go again. :-/


The last dyno i posted was with CYL 3&4 with broken smeared rings........what happens when you were using old software on the034EFI forgot to add the - sign before the 18deg of timing so instead of retarding 18deg it added 18deg of timing.......at 24psi = instant death to head...burnt the head between cyl 3&4 like plasma cutter 1/4" cut head and gaskets....found out later after dyno and some miles the smoke was from smeared pistons and rings on 3&4...lol still ran good just had a weird sound at idle and lots of smoke... you can see it in the vid...but it was way worse in reality...the dyno guy asked several times if it was going to **** the bed on the dyno....lol


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

and my plugs were NGK BKR8EIX plugs gapped at .034 no misfires


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

Fine electrode plugs fire better under boost than fat electrode plugs
and it was an autotech 280 cam not waht it says in the comments

and vid from the first cart pull...lol





Also if your playing stand alone try increasing dwell with boost a little see if it helps....and i got good results at or near 10 to 1 afr


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

IT'S SALSA!!!

Still rocking Hello Kitty??

:laugh::beer:


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## Radmobile2.0 (Mar 27, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> Assuming all your sensors are working and your car has all the provisions for the tune i would look at fuel pressure as a possibility. You can also do basic things like unplug the maf and see what happens. Thats where i would start


When I unplug the maf other a/r drops to healthy numbers of 10 or 9 but won't Rev and doesn't like to stay running. Haven't checked fuel pressure yet.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> IT'S SALSA!!!
> 
> Still rocking Hello Kitty??
> 
> :laugh::beer:


PAAAAAAAARTY!!!! eace:opcorn:


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

still have the horn button not the car...lol
i may put hello kitty in my Jeep...:beer:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Salsa GTI said:


> T instant death to head...burnt the head between cyl 3&4 like plasma cutter 1/4" cut head and gaskets....found out later after dyno and some miles the smoke was from smeared pistons and rings on 3&4


I just got done replacing the head from this. Guess it took out the bottom end too.


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## sykye (Feb 26, 2012)

*OBD1 or OBD2*

hello. could you help me? do i need OBD1 or OBD2 C2 chip? Engine is AGG/ABA mixblock turbo. 
photo below:


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

that doesnt look anythintg like a vw computer ive seen. take a more broad view picture of it. 1/96 should be obd1 though.


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## baxter253 (Jul 25, 2016)

*obd2 on obd 1*

I have been trying to think up a way I could turbo my car using only stock vw parts. this may not seem like a good idea but I have what I think is a general idea for how I want to do this. I would like to explain my idea and if ANYONE has any insight on how i could make this work and any insight on any flaws in the idea plan it would be very much appreciated .

I have a obd1 jetta with a 2.0 and would like to use the turbo manifold and turbo and piping and intercooler etc etc from a mk4 Passat 1.8l but I'm not sure on if the stock obd1 ecu knows how to deal with boost what i do know is that the obd1 aba has a forged bottom end and a already tapped oil pan which i think makes it a great starting point for going fi i have read up a bit about how the 1.8 manifold fits on the 2.0l and it seems it should work fine. the biggest problem i am running into is tht if the obd1 ecu cant handle boost then my next idea is to use the obd2 ecu maf throttle body injectors coils and so on now the coils are where i run into my problem because obd1 and i believe obd2 2.0l both have distributors where the 2003 Passat has coil packs i was talking to one of my buddys who builds hondas and he said they make an adapter/converter for Hondas that allow you to use your distributor as a firing order for the coil packs which sounds confusing and is hard for me to wrap my head around but getting to the point do they make that sort of adapter for vw or would i have to find a custom way to get power t the coil packs. and one other thing i was interested in is if th ecu can handle boost as in when the maf detects a large increae in airflow will it increase the fuel to compensate or will it try to shut down the engine also as a part of that there is a icm ignition control module that controls the spark advance and retard if i were to use the turbo Passat one would it compensate for the turbo and stop the engine from pre detonating


Sorry for the lack of paragraph spacing and periods and such i wrote this up fairly quickly. any help/advice is good help/advice and would be much apprieiated.


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## baxter253 (Jul 25, 2016)

I should also probably mention there is a mk4 Passat in my basement that has an abs problem and is going to be used as a parts car


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## sykye (Feb 26, 2012)

to Spoolin2Liter: it is 1996 AGG (european version) 2.0 8V 85KE (i have head is from ABA, becouse AGG has air intake on backside like exhaust manifold.)... everything is done and the last thing what i need is software  and as it seems it will not be so easy :/


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I would just go standalone. Megasquirt makes some amazing products for a bargain. There are others out there also....I wish I would have done that to my mk2 instead of the off the shelf chip tune.


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

sykye said:


> to Spoolin2Liter: it is 1996 AGG (european version) 2.0 8V 85KE (i have head is from ABA, becouse AGG has air intake on backside like exhaust manifold.)... everything is done and the last thing what i need is software  and as it seems it will not be so easy :/


Have u tried swapping ecus from other 2.0's that are tunable ?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

baxter253 said:


> I have been trying to think up a way I could turbo my car using only stock vw parts. this may not seem like a good idea but I have what I think is a general idea for how I want to do this. I would like to explain my idea and if ANYONE has any insight on how i could make this work and any insight on any flaws in the idea plan it would be very much appreciated ..


have you compared a 1.8 exhaust manifold to an ABA? The bolt holes etc come no where near where the ABA does. Nothing will just bolt up like you say.

If you're using the engine management from the aba, it fuels based on the MAF sensor. You have to tune for this though and need larger aftermarket injectors. Nothing will just "Plug and play" with junkyard tuning in your above scenario.

I don't think I've ever seen anyone convert their ABA to coil over plug ignition.

Sounds like it might be easier to just swap the entire 1.8t from the Passat into your car.


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## CTS Turbo (Oct 2, 2008)

We are still working on bringing back the MK3 and MK4 2L 8V turbo kits, and the manifold. This is a picture of the old Kinetic 8V manifold (bottom) vs the new CTS 8V manifold (top), flange dimensions are identical. However, the CTS manifold has more consistent wall stock and has been optimized in a number of ways including flow. The optimization was difficult considering we wanted to maintain the original flange configurations, that allows us to put the 8V turbo kits back into production and won't require us to revise the kits for changes in manifold design. We hope to have these ready in late summer, manifolds alone will be in the $349.99 range.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

CTS Turbo said:


> We are still working on bringing back the MK3 and MK4 2L 8V turbo kits, and the manifold. This is a picture of the old Kinetic 8V manifold (bottom) vs the new CTS 8V manifold (top), flange dimensions are identical. However, the CTS manifold has more consistent wall stock and has been optimized in a number of ways including flow. The optimization was difficult considering we wanted to maintain the original flange configurations, that allows us to put the 8V turbo kits back into production and won't require us to revise the kits for changes in manifold design. We hope to have these ready in late summer, manifolds alone will be in the $349.99 range.


👍🏻


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## Srbgti (Jul 28, 2006)

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## ICreate (Jan 6, 2015)

All of my yes. 


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## baxter253 (Jul 25, 2016)

> have you compared a 1.8 exhaust manifold to an ABA?


 I have done so with the 2.0 exhaust on the 1.8 so shouldn't it work with the 1.8 manifold on 2.0


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## baxter253 (Jul 25, 2016)

> Sounds like it might be easier to just swap the entire 1.8t from the Passat into your car.


 I'm putting the 2.0 in my mk2 jetta coupe


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## baxter253 (Jul 25, 2016)

what if I just slapped a turbo in the car and got bigger injectors. would the ecu know how to handle the increase in airflow.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

baxter253 said:


> what if I just slapped a turbo in the car and got bigger injectors. would the ecu know how to handle the increase in airflow.


Nope, would need a chip.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

baxter253 said:


> I have done so with the 2.0 exhaust on the 1.8 so shouldn't it work with the 1.8 manifold on 2.0


What 1.8? The 1.8T is different than the oldschool 8v 1.8. You CANNOT bolt up a 1.8t exhaust manifold to an ABA head. I promise you it wont work.

You could try and throw on a older 8v diesel turbo manifold and a k03 or something. I've heard of people doing that but not sure how effective or costly that may be.

Your car will not run without proper software and injectors. Your tune has to match your injectors... This is not an area you can cheap out or junkyard tune on.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

wolfcastle said:


> What 1.8? The 1.8T is different than the oldschool 8v 1.8. You CANNOT bolt up a 1.8t exhaust manifold to an ABA head. I promise you it wont work.
> 
> You could try and throw on a older 8v diesel turbo manifold and a k03 or something. I've heard of people doing that but not sure how effective or costly that may be.
> 
> Your car will not run without proper software and injectors. Your tune has to match your injectors... This is not an area you can cheap out or junkyard tune on.


^what he said. 

1.8t and ABA have totally different manifold flange. 1.8t has bolts on the 4 "corners" of the ports, older 8v stuff (like aba and old mk1/mk2, etc) have bolts down the center on top and bottom of the ports. Not even close. 

If you want to use junkyard parts, you can get a turbo, manifold, and downpipe(will need some modification) off a MK2 1.6 turbo diesel. They are very small so they would spool fast. You need some sort of management's. Either C2 chip/tune in oem ECU or Mega/Micro Squirt are probably the most cost effective. Lugtronic is a pricier option, but better VW expertise and support.

You can scrounge up some bigger -ish injectors in wrecking yards. But I think c2 has preset injector sizes (36lb and 42lb come to mind, but I'm sure someone can correct that)

So you could do it for quite cheap hardware Wise. You do need to spend some money on management. Microsquirt is like $350usd and can totally do the simple single coil, batch fire that an ABA turbo requires.


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## PanzerPerformance (Jul 28, 2016)

Hey fellas

Anyways Daskoupe here reporting in. Guess whatever emailed I used back in the day doesn't exist anymore. So new name time

my new toys for my aba turbo










Hopefully going on this weekend. 

Also I stopped drag racing. Started doing this stuff. I turned the boost down to 17 psi now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tq2AwHyArtM

Until I have time to wire this Haltech **** in it's going to be a bit. haha


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

LIVE IN THE FLESH!! MK4 8v k03/k04 turbo manifolds!!


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## ICreate (Jan 6, 2015)

Where dem mk3 8v manis' doe?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> LIVE IN THE FLESH!! MK4 8v k03/k04 turbo manifolds!!


Such a good idea, unfortunately it didn't come out 6 yrs ago :banghead:


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## Dconte (Nov 9, 2013)

*Mk1 Caddy AbaT*

Built this little girl last winter.
Stock OBD1 motor plus Head gasket spacer and apr studs
abaT
42lbs
70mm maf housing
02j w/ wavetrac
C2 stage 2 "race" tune
forge style Diverter Valve
air to water intercooler (less than 2.5ft of boost pipe)
Garret Air research m10 .48 .42 (little baby)
Custom short runner out of stock mani + custom made plenum/throttle body extender. (also needed to clear the hood)

Hits 15lbs of boost at around 2,700 rpms!

Would like to get it on a dyno and see what it does for numbers.
Thinking about a getting a cam for it. Any suggestions? Does the C2 software work well with a cam?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

GTijoejoe said:


> Such a good idea, unfortunately it didn't come out 6 yrs ago :banghead:


with how cheap you can find 1.8t parts, I think the market will still be viable. MK4's are like the new MK2 lol


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

I missed the cost on this manifold, what is it?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

> Built this little girl last winter.
> Stock OBD1 motor plus Head gasket spacer and apr studs
> abaT
> 42lbs
> ...


Have you checked what your intake air temps are? I am turning about about 160f at at 13lbs with my a/w with what looks like a much bigger heat exchanger. I have a feeling my cheap intercooler core is to blame.


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## Dconte (Nov 9, 2013)

monoaural said:


> Have you checked what your intake air temps are? I am turning about about 160f at at 13lbs with my a/w with what looks like a much bigger heat exchanger. I have a feeling my cheap intercooler core is to blame.


I honestly haven't yet. Ive been going by the "hot to the touch test" and rarely is it anything but cold on the intercooler. I have a pretty lean idle and mildly lean overall situation I'm trying to track down first. I imagine your IAT gauge uses it's own sender? Would it be possible to wire one into the existing VW sensor wiring?
-Dylan


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Iat*

Hi guys i just dynoed my setup at 10psi with spikes to 12psi and end up with 228whp 189trq no intercooler,watermeth with a 200cc nozzle and iat temps in the 150-175* in 4th gear,ccm trany,268*tt cam,megasquirt,550cc denso injectors.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Iat*

Leaking fuel rail kept us from changing the 276*114lca cam in the dyno,plus the wastegate ran close in one run and overboosted to 23psi which lead us to bring the car down and keep tuning. Hopefully tomorow sunday we can fit the 375cc meth nozzle to see lower iat and leaning the mixture wich is in the 10.2-10.5 area!! Will keep you guys posted!!


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Dconte said:


> I honestly haven't yet. Ive been going by the "hot to the touch test" and rarely is it anything but cold on the intercooler. I have a pretty lean idle and mildly lean overall situation I'm trying to track down first. I imagine your IAT gauge uses it's own sender? Would it be possible to wire one into the existing VW sensor wiring?
> -Dylan


I am using microsquirt with a gm open element sender which should allow it to read the quicker changing air of a turbo'd system. But you can log with VCDS with the stock computer. 

If you want to go open element, I believe the 1.8t sensor uses the same resistance scale as the stock aba. 

Rod, How do you like your short runner rod? Looks like you just cut down a stock mani and added a plenum?


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*A joke*

Its a joke of a manifold, it is a welded 3" tube on top plenum with a aba tb spacer welded to it,the good thing is that at 6.8k the fall in hp is slow not so radical as a stock manifold. Still got another to fit which consist of a fire extinguisher cilinder 4" pipe welded to the lower runners!will see if it works or not!!


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Sri*


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

You definitely need much more nozzle! Even on a hot day your IATs should be no more than 135* but you have a really short boost pipe so the amount of time to vaporize is affected. Put the nozzle as in the compressor outlet and heat shield the tubing.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Numbers*

Hi guys this are the numbers from my build,a little low but happy none the less,iat with a 200cc reached 170*,with the 375cc nozzle iat stayed at 125-130* no intercooler.


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## upoo2 (Dec 7, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> with how cheap you can find 1.8t parts, I think the market will still be viable. MK4's are like the new MK2 lol


So like... is it ever going to come out?


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## montoni (Feb 25, 2016)

Hey guys im new to car mechanics and stuff and i want to know what parts i need for a turbo set up, and a estimate on how much itd cost for used parts and where i should get it installed, im currently located on long island new york. thanks.


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

montoni said:


> Hey guys im new to car mechanics and stuff and i want to know what parts i need for a turbo set up, and a estimate on how much itd cost for used parts and where i should get it installed, im currently located on long island new york. thanks.


Lots of threads on this stuff, Here is one place to look: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1477397-200hp-the-easy-way-question


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

rodperformance said:


> Hi guys this are the numbers from my build,a little low but happy none the less,iat with a 200cc reached 170*,with the 375cc nozzle iat stayed at 125-130* no intercooler.


 Told you  Anyway you're running 10psi...on an anemic 2.0L. Don't expect huge dividends until you really start playing with the boost and timing that w/m allows. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

upoo2 said:


> So like... is it ever going to come out?


yes!


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## URIN 2ND (Oct 29, 2001)

[email protected] said:


> yes!


I hope it's soon...otherwise I'm pulling the trigger on an eBay manifold and turbo. Can't wait much longer!


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## PanzerPerformance (Jul 28, 2016)

New Turbo time...










and got my old green giants checked out


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## dkoesyncro (Jul 29, 2016)

*Boost tubes,maf,distance ?'s*

I havnt been on in a while and lost my name etc. new start I suppose!

Im building an ABA-T for the rear of my vanagon syncro (actually second time around). My question is My turbo inlet is 2.5 inches "id" and tapers inward to 2'' at compressor. My MAF is 2.75 "id", do I gradually taper from MAF to turbo or run 2.5 from MAF to turbo? Am i wrong in assuming that the distance from turbo in maf be as far apart to keep turbulence from interfering with readings and that the flow between MAF and turbo be as straight as possible?


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## PanzerPerformance (Jul 28, 2016)

dkoesyncro said:


> I havnt been on in a while and lost my name etc. new start I suppose!
> 
> Im building an ABA-T for the rear of my vanagon syncro (actually second time around). My question is My turbo inlet is 2.5 inches "id" and tapers inward to 2'' at compressor. My MAF is 2.75 "id", do I gradually taper from MAF to turbo or run 2.5 from MAF to turbo? Am i wrong in assuming that the distance from turbo in maf be as far apart to keep turbulence from interfering with readings and that the flow between MAF and turbo be as straight as possible?


I would run the 2.5 all the way. Also I do think the distance matters, but no so much the angle of the pipe long as the maf is angled as well. 

My question is how do I lean my **** out. I'm now running far less boost than ever before(road racing?) So I have C2 stage 2 with 440's. Smaller maf housing?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

URIN 2ND said:


> I hope it's soon...otherwise I'm pulling the trigger on an eBay manifold and turbo. Can't wait much longer!


Scott and I will be discussing pricing and getting photos done for the site this week. Then next week.....should be GAME TIME


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## Tdc_shop (Apr 18, 2016)

aba turbo


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## syncrogti (Sep 5, 2005)

Anyone have a recommended wiring diagram to follow for the swap into a mk2? I have OBD2 and CE2, and I am stripping my harness this week. I have searched and there are a number of them but I would prefer to use one that is known to be a good one. I have both Bentleys


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

Changed spark plugs and took her out for a drive. 15lbs feels might nice. knocking on the gates of hell as far as im concerned. yikes.


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Took my Jetta to the drags last night. Best run of 15.044 @ 98.3 mph.. Running 20 psi. What is a proper launch technique with big laggy t3/t4 60 trim w a .63 ar turbine? All I did was spin or bog.. Also my wastegate would open at 20 psi, then close when it got down to 15 then it would re spool to 20, open again, and repeat until redline.. Running a manual boost controller and a 1 bar wastegate Spring.. How do I keep it from oscillating open an closed? Would rather it hit specified boost, then open an stay at that boost til redline. 


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

jcveedub said:


> Also my wastegate would open at 20 psi, then close when it got down to 15 then it would re spool to 20, open again, and repeat until redline


wat


----------



## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Also what are people doing for an oil cooler? Coolant was fine but my turbo was glowing so I can imagine my oil temps were up there..


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

wolfcastle said:


> wat


Car would spool up hit 20 psi, wastegate would open, then it would drop down to about 15 psi. Wastegate would close, then it would build boost back up until it opened again. Would open three times before redline in 3rd. Wondering if it has to do with the manual boost controller..


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

jcveedub said:


> Car would spool up hit 20 psi, wastegate would open, then it would drop down to about 15 psi. Wastegate would close, then it would build boost back up until it opened again. Would open three times before redline in 3rd. Wondering if it has to do with the manual boost controller..
> 
> 
> Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..



i would think a faulty MBC could cause that, sure. If the seal in it is not holding and allowing the WG to see that 20psi then the spring will do its job at 15psi.


----------



## Tdc_shop (Apr 18, 2016)

Just put the 20 psi spring in  or buy an aem tru boost 


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----------



## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Do yourself a favor and buy the Cortex EBC we offer. Boost by gear,rpm, throttle position. Can control two different outputs fire nitrous, w/m or whatever else you WANT!

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=112_303&products_id=2017

I absolutely love mine!


----------



## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

jcveedub said:


> Took my Jetta to the drags last night. Best run of 15.044 @ 98.3 mph.. Running 20 psi. What is a proper launch technique with big laggy t3/t4 60 trim w a .63 ar turbine? All I did was spin or bog.. Also my wastegate would open at 20 psi, then close when it got down to 15 then it would re spool to 20, open again, and repeat until redline.. Running a manual boost controller and a 1 bar wastegate Spring.. How do I keep it from oscillating open an closed? Would rather it hit specified boost, then open an stay at that boost til redline.
> 
> 
> Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


sounds like a boost controller issue. remove it and run the car off just the wastegate and see what happens. i am running an apexi avc r on mine (w 38mm tial wg) and it holds boost very well.


----------



## PanzerPerformance (Jul 28, 2016)

therealvrt said:


> sounds like a boost controller issue. remove it and run the car off just the wastegate and see what happens. i am running an apexi avc r on mine (w 38mm tial wg) and it holds boost very well.


98mph is slow as ****. I think my worst days I was trapping 105-109. A "good" run nets me 116+


----------



## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

here's a vid of the car doing a flyby. surprisingly quieter than i expected. of course there's only a couple seats and a dashboard in it so its loud as hell inside haha.


----------



## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

jcveedub said:


> Took my Jetta to the drags last night. Best run of 15.044 @ 98.3 mph.. Running 20 psi. What is a proper launch technique with big laggy t3/t4 60 trim w a .63 ar turbine? All I did was spin or bog.. Also my wastegate would open at 20 psi, then close when it got down to 15 then it would re spool to 20, open again, and repeat until redline.. Running a manual boost controller and a 1 bar wastegate Spring.. How do I keep it from oscillating open an closed? Would rather it hit specified boost, then open an stay at that boost til redline.
> .


Well you must fix that boost control problem then you'll trap in the 100's, but regardless that MPH is good for a high 13 sec pass. What was your 60' times ?


----------



## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

jcveedub said:


> Car would spool up hit 20 psi, wastegate would open, then it would drop down to about 15 psi. Wastegate would close, then it would build boost back up until it opened again. Would open three times before redline in 3rd. Wondering if it has to do with the manual boost controller..
> 
> 
> Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


What size wastegate do you have?


----------



## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> What size wastegate do you have?


I've got a tial 38 mm external with a 1.5 inch open dump tube. I think my best 60ft was 2.3. I cranked the boost controller all the way and now it will hit 28, open, drop to about 23, but stay open then it climbs back to 28 by redline. Still not quite right but better. 28 psi is a lot tho, torque steer with an open dif is aggressive. See how long it last haha


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

jcveedub said:


> I've got a tial 38 mm external with a 1.5 inch open dump tube. I think my best 60ft was 2.3. I cranked the boost controller all the way and now it will hit 28, open, drop to about 23, but stay open then it climbs back to 28 by redline. Still not quite right but better. 28 psi is a lot tho, torque steer with an open dif is aggressive. See how long it last haha
> 
> 
> Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


WTF....what engine management are you running??? I cant imagine 440's capable of keeping up with 28 psi


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

upoo2 said:


> So like... is it ever going to come out?





URIN 2ND said:


> I hope it's soon...otherwise I'm pulling the trigger on an eBay manifold and turbo. Can't wait much longer!





[email protected] said:


> yes!


SO YOU TWO READY TO BUY!? Becauuuuuse.... IT'S OUT!!

$625 for manifold and injectors:beer::beer::beer:


----------



## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

wolfcastle said:


> WTF....what engine management are you running??? I cant imagine 440's capable of keeping up with 28 psi


Seriously. Mine can barely cope with 18psi. Dude you have an issue. Check your timing. My car did 107 in the 1/4 mile on 13lbs and 240hp. At 20lbs with that turbo you should be kissing 300hp and hitting at least 115 trap speed. Youre cam timing may be off. Something is not right here. 

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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

jcveedub said:


> I've got a tial 38 mm external with a 1.5 inch open dump tube. I think my best 60ft was 2.3. I cranked the boost controller all the way and now it will hit 28, open, drop to about 23, but stay open then it climbs back to 28 by redline. Still not quite right but better. 28 psi is a lot tho, torque steer with an open dif is aggressive. See how long it last haha
> 
> 
> Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


That's a lot of boost. 

At 16psi I 60' in a similar time (2.2) and went [email protected] (But that was in a MK2, 2550lbs with me in it, 2350 without me) There is something else not right going on there.


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

I had an issue with my car a year or so after I built it. 

I replaced the head gasket because it was leaking out the passenger side. (turned out the head was warped which i learned later) After installation of the new head gasket it was running fine but when the car would come into boost it just didnt go anywhere. So i had it cranked up to like 20 lbs and it was fast but not 20psi fast. I knew something had to be off because it felt the same at 20psi as it had felt at 10psi before that. I double checked my physical timing and the cam turned out to be off by 2 teeth. 1 tooth you may not notice. 2 teeth retard is big. So i re timed the cam and double checked it. got in the car and promptly blew the head gasket after 2 pulls (the head lifted). It was giving every psi of the 20 I had it set at...

Turned out that my head was actually warped pretty bad (which was why it was leaking) so i got it rebuilt and added some arp studs and the car has been fine ever since.

These are growing pains of a gear head sometimes. 

Double check that cam timing. You may not be getting combustion with a full volume of air and literally blowing your boost straight through the head.


----------



## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Hmm ok I checked and timing is spot on, and checked with vagcom, nothin showing. I'll take a video of the boost issue, which if it was oscillating between 20-15 at the track that's a lot of torque spikes and changes of fueling so I'm sure it wasn't making much more than 215ish hp... As far as management, c2 stage 2, 440s, but I have a head spacer, arp bolts throughout the motor, it's really fast at 25+, afr stays at 12.1. I think I should add that the temp at the track was 88 and humid. That definitely affected it


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

jcveedub said:


> Hmm ok I checked and timing is spot on, and checked with vagcom, nothin showing. I'll take a video of the boost issue, which if it was oscillating between 20-15 at the track that's a lot of torque spikes and changes of fueling so I'm sure it wasn't making much more than 215ish hp... As far as management, c2 stage 2, 440s, but I have a head spacer, arp bolts throughout the motor, it's really fast at 25+, afr stays at 12.1. I think I should add that the temp at the track was 88 and humid. That definitely affected it


See my video above? 

Thats 15psi on the button. count from when the wastegate opens to when I let off. 6-7 secs from 40-110. Thats fast. 25+ psi on a t3/t4 and 440's should either blow your engine.. or be uncontrollably fast. 88 degrees ambient doesnt mean anything. rising and falling between 15 and 20psi at WOT is not a good thing in any way. do a boost leak test, do a compression test. The hose from your turbo to your wastegate may have a hole in it bleeding off pressure. CHECK EVERYTHING.


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## jcveedub (Aug 11, 2009)

Spoolin2Liter said:


> See my video above?
> 
> Thats 15psi on the button. count from when the wastegate opens to when I let off. 6-7 secs from 40-110. Thats fast. 25+ psi on a t3/t4 and 440's should either blow your engine.. or be uncontrollably fast. 88 degrees ambient doesnt mean anything. rising and falling between 15 and 20psi at WOT is not a good thing in any way. do a boost leak test, do a compression test. The hose from your turbo to your wastegate may have a hole in it bleeding off pressure. CHECK EVERYTHING.


Agreed will go thru it and figure it out, but all I meant about the temperature was that it didn't pull as hard because of heat soak and air temps so I ran a slower time 


Golf R: APR stg 2+, APR dp, roc-euro midpipe, APR HPFP, CTS intake, BFI Catch can, HPA dogbone mount, ISC coilovers & camber plates, euro tails, euro cupholder, ESM008 18x8.5 wheels, 215/40/18 Hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 tires, valentine one hardwired, and more..


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

jcveedub said:


> Agreed will go thru it and figure it out, but all I meant about the temperature was that it didn't pull as hard because of heat soak and air temps so I ran a slower time


I understand what you are saying. but the boost issue and the heat soak issue are separate from eachother. Also. go standalone. Megasquirt is where its at. I hate not being in control of whats going on in my engine.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Wastegate*

Hi mate! I would check my wastegate spring or replace for a lower one like 10 psi and blow off valve spring since sometimes pressures often overtake and leak!! Thats were i would start,keep us posted what you find,later Roderick.


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*New numbers*

Well







here we got the new numbers of my mk2 coupe,aba engine,megasquirt i was hoping for 300+ but the dyno boost sensor was giving a wrong readout,so it says 20psi but ecu and boost gauge showed 18psi real,so maybe next time well make it to the 300+ hp club. Now to try to put that power to the ground is another ballgame.later Roderick


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

rodperformance said:


> Well
> 
> 
> 
> ...


is that with the 276 WL cam?


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*276wlc*

Yes that was with the 286wlc turbo cam,surprisingly leaning the a/f and giving some timing didnt lose bottom end, still this pass was on 18psi of boost so two more psi would've take me to the 300 mark but it didnt happened.next time i guess.


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## wwwdotgov (Nov 9, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> LIVE IN THE FLESH!! MK4 8v k03/k04 turbo manifolds!!


Won't this fit on my Mk3 ABA 2.0 8V?
I'm already using a header from a 2000 Golf (MK4 AEG 2.0 8V) on my 1998 Jetta (MK3 ABA 2.0 8V). 
Am I missing something? Why isn't this turbo manifold good for both MK3/MK4?


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## Spoolin2Liter (Sep 10, 2014)

All that R&D for an un-usable manifold. who puts a ko3 or ko4 on a aba turbo?


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

wwwdotgov said:


> Won't this fit on my Mk3 ABA 2.0 8V?
> I'm already using a header from a 2000 Golf (MK4 AEG 2.0 8V) on my 1998 Jetta (MK3 ABA 2.0 8V).
> Am I missing something? Why isn't this turbo manifold good for both MK3/MK4?


 it works fine for an ABA or even the new mk6 8v



Spoolin2Liter said:


> All that R&D for an un-usable manifold. who puts a ko3 or ko4 on a aba turbo?


 one word, torque.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> it works fine for an ABA or even the new mk6 8v
> 
> one word, torque.


If you all looked on the website you would notice downpipes available for mk2/3 who utilize this manifold as well.


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## B3A5TMAN (Aug 29, 2016)

*ABA turbo*

ive been buildng my aba turbo over the past couple months and have been search for answers of how much power i might make my setup includes

T3/t4 50 trm
spa head spacer
arp head bolts 
MK4 intake mani
internal waste gate (bought a cheap manifold)
full fmi
42 lbs tune

just have a couple little things to finish but want to now how much boost people run outta the 42 lbs tune, and transmissions anybody still 020? how long did the 020 last? I no alot of people 02a swap but anybody do a 02j? and Opinions?
What plugs are you guys running?


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## B3A5TMAN (Aug 29, 2016)

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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

B3A5TMAN said:


> ive been buildng my aba turbo over the past couple months and have been search for answers of how much power i might make my setup includes
> 
> T3/t4 50 trm
> spa head spacer
> ...


you will be limited to around the 300whp mark. Need more injector.


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## B3A5TMAN (Aug 29, 2016)

Yea that's what I'm Hopeing for should be a fun daily driver have a couple motors laying around if one ****s out, lug is what's going on the next one 


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## B3A5TMAN (Aug 29, 2016)

What plugs do u recommend? I no the gap just want to get opinion on plugs


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

BKR7E's are fine. If you find out later that you want the best bang/quality plug..i'd recommend Brisk Racing Silvers (not cheap). If you have a good ignition coil(s) then you can open the gap up with those resulting in much better burn, and thus better throttle response. They last quite a long time under some serious abuse.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

went [email protected] yesterday at the track. great weather conditions. 
not a bad time for a full weight mk3 gti on a 195 street tire with factory diff.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

therealvrt said:


> went [email protected] yesterday at the track. great weather conditions.
> not a bad time for a full weight mk3 gti on a 195 street tire with factory diff.


That's a strong time for an open diff FWD on street tires! Congrats!


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Holset hx35*

Hi guys,im sharing what a holset hx35 would look in a mk2 jetta.will be back to the dyno on a refreshed setup!
Head was decked .20 thou for a 10.1.1 compression ratio
Arias 9.7.1 forged pistons 82.5mm
Eurospecc 159mm forged rods
Autotech valvesprings
Autotech Ti retainers
TT276 turbo cam
Holset Hx35w 12cm housing
Front mount intercooler(last dyno of 290whp)was on meth only,no i/c
Hope can be of any help!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

That compressor cover is very close to the wall.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> That compressor cover is very close to the wall.


Its a rear compressor support bracket.....


Seriously though, turbo hitting fire wall will develop torque loss and gasket failures (if you run one), or just exhaust leaks.
Need more room.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

GTijoejoe said:


> Its a rear compressor support bracket.....
> 
> 
> Seriously though, turbo hitting fire wall will develop torque loss and gasket failures (if you run one), or just exhaust leaks.
> Need more room.


Thats how i cracked my hotside at a track day. T04e cover+ atp manifold.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

wolfcastle said:


> Thats how i cracked my hotside at a track day. T04e cover+ atp manifold.


I guess it is safe to say it was NOT self clearancing?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

GTijoejoe said:


> I guess it is safe to say it was NOT self clearancing?


Yes and no...it clearanced itself by way of forcing me to go to a b cover :laugh:


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Hey fellas. Anyone on here that has experience swapping an 02a care to shoot me a PM. I have a few questions regarding the swap into my mk1 Aba t.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Hey fellas. Anyone on here that has experience swapping an 02a care to shoot me a PM. I have a few questions regarding the swap into my mk1 Aba t.


i did it many many many moons ago in my MKiii

Shoot me a PM Perkey, hope I can help


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Timing*

Hi guys,what timing under boost are you running? With t3t4 and 375cc meth nozzle i got to 24deg with out detonation,now i upped the compression to 10.1 on forged lugs,share your thoughts!


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*Firewall*

Wolf and joe the firewall got a massage with a 5# hammer so hopefully will not touch!!


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## Junkyarddawg (Dec 5, 2013)

*ABA Turbo setup (Low Budget)*

Been putting bits and pieces together for a while but finally got it together, and man was it worth it!
All parts were bought second hand from craiglist, ebay, junkyard, etc...
Cant believe how strong this thing pulls at 15 pounds!
Specs:
1996 OBD2 ABA engine 170K miles (Stock) Had german head and steel crank from factory, early 96 production.
JDM T3/4 57 Trim ball bearing turbo
T3 cast exhaust manifold drilled and tapped to mount external wastegate underneath
Homemade 2.5 downpipe
3.0 inch full exhaust
FMIC with 2.250 tubing
Recirculating BOV
Snow performance Water/Alcohol injection with 500cc nozzle, comes in at 6 psi
Stock OBD2 ecu with BBM stage3 chip
29# bosch injectors from a SC Buick Riviera
Walbro intank fuel pump
4 bar FPR
70mm MAF (VR6)
MSD 6AL with blaster 2 coil
CHE 020 trans with Spec stage 1 clutch

Dont have any dyno pulls on it yet but it feels like honest to goodness 200+ at full load and pulls clean to redline...
This car runs and drives like a daily driver, smooth idle, lots of low end torque, strong power band.


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## Jeremy_Bentham (Jul 10, 2012)

Rebuilt a new engine for mine over the summer. 

I would like to aim for 300hp. Anything above that I'd be really happy!

2.0 Aba Obd2 Block With An Obd1 Head
Je Forged Pistons / Lowered Compression To 9:1
Arp Head Studs
Adjustable Cam Gear 
Lightweight Intermediate Gear 
Heavy Duty Valve Springs
Autotech 270 Cam
Honda Cbr900Rr Carburators With Custom Intake 
Dyno Jet Needles 
T3/t4 Turbo
Turbo Smart Iwg 14Psi Spring 
Turbo Smart Mbc
Turbosmart vee port pro bov
Ross Machine Racing Custom Plenum
Turbo Gemini Fpr
Turbo Gemini Fuel Pump
Custom Turbo Downpipe
Techtonics Exhuast
Seat Ibiza Gti Valve Cover 
Honda Civic Slim Aluminuim Radiator / Slim Fan
Custom Distrubuter 
Msd 6Al
Msd Boost Master Timing Computer 
Msd Tach Adaptor 
Msd Start / Step Retard Computer
Votion Water To Air Intercooler 
Votion Ice Box - Water Reservoir 
Bosch Water To Air Pump 
Water To Air Heat Exchange + Fan 
Moroso Catch Can
Sachs 16V Clutch And Presure Plate
Innovate a/f gauge
Innovate boost gauge
Innovate water temp gauge 
Nkg plugs two heat ranges colder. Can't remember the part number.

I would like to swap out the down-pipe and exhaust for maybe a 3" and maybe switch out the turbo for something a bit bigger and better.










My air fuel ratios have always been in the low tens on boost and with the new msd boost retard box, I will probably pull .75 to 1 degree of timing per pound of boost and go from there. 

Starting with 14psi working my way to 20. 

I really need to switch my transmission out too, because I'm still running the o2o.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Wow, nice build! :thumbup:


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## Jeremy_Bentham (Jul 10, 2012)

wolfcastle said:


> Wow, nice build! :thumbup:


Thank you  


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## roosteronthehill (Apr 8, 2016)

Trimming down my obd2 ABA engine harness that's going into my CE2 swapped Rabbit, I want to verifiy that turbo chips (C2/UM) delete the rear 02 and the purge valve. I want to cut them out of the harness completely.
Also I am running stock rabbit speedomoeter with a speedo cable (no sensor), do I need to do anything with the vehicle speed wire to keep me from having the fuel cut? thanks homies!


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Yes they do . It's concidered off road version not street legal. I have no rear o2 and no secondary air injection . I deleted both.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

Jeremy_Bentham said:


> Rebuilt a new engine for mine over the summer.
> 
> I would like to aim for 300hp. Anything above that I'd be really happy!
> 
> ...


Custom distributor? You mean cap or actual distributor? Dope set up. Also you can ditch the tag adaptor you don't need it with the new Msd. I ditched mine weks fine the signal transfer is built in now


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## Jeremy_Bentham (Jul 10, 2012)

cifdig said:


> Custom distributor? You mean cap or actual distributor? Dope set up. Also you can ditch the tag adaptor you don't need it with the new Msd. I ditched mine weks fine the signal transfer is built in now


The distributor it self. The outter case and cap from a mk3. The internal gear and shaft from a mk2. Combined with a four window.

I don't have the latest 6al. I'm running the og 6al and boost timing master boxes. Thanks for the heads up.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Exhaust for the ABA k03 guys in the works from our friends at Techtonics Tuning!


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## Conejo Negro (Apr 3, 2007)

Looking to get some ID 1000 injectors for my setup. Would these be the same as for a 1.8t? With the obd plug adapter


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## rodperformance (Oct 9, 2010)

*New numbers*

Hi guys this are the new numbers on my aba turbo setup.currently on holset hx35 @21psi,dont mind the aemboost numbers because they read low and wrong. Only upgrade was a aeromotive stealth intank pump model 11542


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

am i crazy or is the TT 276 wide lobe cam gone from the TT website!?


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## DMehalko(DM) (Nov 1, 2004)

therealvrt said:


> am i crazy or is the TT 276 wide lobe cam gone from the TT website!?



http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...uct_info&cPath=2_13_61_1006_92&products_id=32


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## DMehalko(DM) (Nov 1, 2004)

Hello all, finally getting around to getting my aba put together, i keep hoping all over the place with what im going to do with this motor, but essentially i think it would be cool to get my Mk2 to run into the 12's with a single cam motor

Since the motor is out, I would like to refresh it, new bearings, new pistons/rings, seals, etc... For a goal of ~300whp, should I bother with forged pistons? Was leaning on going with Stock bore Wisceo pistons with 9:1 compression ratio. Also, id rather not bore out the block for oversized pistons, but worried about a fresh hone opening the bores a smidge? I hear rebuilding engines with stock bore pistons can make for a noisy piston slapping engine.

Lastly, anyone take their ABA turbo to the track? Looking for fresh 1/4 mile times 


Been sitting since last summer like this; time to get to work!


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

DMehalko(DM) said:


> http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...uct_info&cPath=2_13_61_1006_92&products_id=32


That not the wide lobe. I called them the other day and they said they have 3 more coming in.


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

DMehalko(DM) said:


> Hello all, finally getting around to getting my aba put together, i keep hoping all over the place with what im going to do with this motor, but essentially i think it would be cool to get my Mk2 to run into the 12's with a single cam motor
> 
> Since the motor is out, I would like to refresh it, new bearings, new pistons/rings, seals, etc... For a goal of ~300whp, should I bother with forged pistons? Was leaning on going with Stock bore Wisceo pistons with 9:1 compression ratio. Also, id rather not bore out the block for oversized pistons, but worried about a fresh hone opening the bores a smidge? I hear rebuilding engines with stock bore pistons can make for a noisy piston slapping engine.
> 
> Lastly, anyone take their ABA turbo to the track? Looking for fresh 1/4 mile times


300whp is doable with a HG spacer and arp headstuds. I do not know what i make but in a full weight mk3 gti with stock internals and oem diff i went [email protected] mph on a UM stg2 chip. Check my build thread for more info. 
Getting rid of the stock intake is a must imo to make decent power.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I will echo that getting a different intake to make decent power. if i had to choose between rods and pistons or spend that money on intake, i would go intake hands down. If money isn't the issue then just do it all up. It will run slightly better without a head spacer on it if you can drop the compression with pistons. 

You start running up against the law of diminishing returns going above 300. With 440's it may be achievable but not at altitude...i never ran my mk2 at the track but it may have been able to touch low 13's from my feeling. I would definitely go big and go standalone with a MAP sensor if i were to do it again. There is something fun about shilling out enormous amounts of money on an 8v for power levels that are easily achievable in more capable motors :laugh:


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

therealvrt said:


> 300whp is doable with a HG spacer and arp headstuds. I do not know what i make but in a full weight mk3 gti with stock internals and oem diff i went [email protected] mph on a UM stg2 chip. Check my build thread for more info.
> Getting rid of the stock intake is a must imo to make decent power.


I went [email protected] in my MK2, both of our MPH's are enough to get you deep into the 12's, I was just banging out the worst 60 foot times all day, like 2.2/2.3. 



wolfcastle said:


> You start running up against the law of diminishing returns going above 300. With 440's it may be achievable but not at altitude...i never ran my mk2 at the track but it may have been able to touch low 13's from my feeling. I would definitely go big and go standalone with a MAP sensor if i were to do it again. There is something fun about shilling out enormous amounts of money on an 8v for power levels that are easily achievable in more capable motors :laugh:


Yeah kinda agree here. I actually feel like the 8v is a cheap motor to run, because they are so cheap if you do lunch one. 

But really only cheap if you're after 300hp or less, since you can do that on a stock bottom end. After that when people talk about rods/pistons, etc. I can't help but feel, I'd rather put that stuff into a 1.8t block, because then you fixed their weak spot and the head flow is already there. I mean stuff like the MegaSquirt, big injectors, big turbo, I can swap onto to 1.8t, it would seem silly to try and build a ABA up when that engine is just as readily available.


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

DMehalko(DM) said:


> Hello all, finally getting around to getting my aba put together, i keep hoping all over the place with what im going to do with this motor, but essentially i think it would be cool to get my Mk2 to run into the 12's with a single cam motor
> 
> Since the motor is out, I would like to refresh it, new bearings, new pistons/rings, seals, etc... For a goal of ~300whp, should I bother with forged pistons? Was leaning on going with Stock bore Wisceo pistons with 9:1 compression ratio. Also, id rather not bore out the block for oversized pistons, but worried about a fresh hone opening the bores a smidge? I hear rebuilding engines with stock bore pistons can make for a noisy piston slapping engine.
> 
> ...


If the goal is 300+whp I would recommend always upgrading the internals. 
Pistons and rods. ABA ringlands crack. Rods aren't really that expensive. 
You'll need a new intake manifold and solid engine management.
One of the worst features of the ABA engine is the ignition :thumbdown:


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

GTijoejoe said:


> One of the worst features of the ABA engine is the ignition :thumbdown:


What are you using for a coil? I still am using the stock one, but once the gap grows to around 27, I get misfires.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

monoaural said:


> What are you using for a coil? I still am using the stock one, but once the gap grows to around 27, I get misfires.


My old ABA turbo was plagued with misfires. I got it running pretty well but it would always misfire the first time i try to go WOT after the warmup cycle and i could never really go past 18psi. I could drive it for 20 minutes and go WOT and it would misfire. Subsequent WOT attempts and it would usually be fine. I could never figure it out and was part of the reason i sold the car. I put a ton of money into different coils, checking grounds, plugs, wires, C2 tune, UM tune, different MAF's, you name it. i even took it to Bluewater Performance and another shop hardeys out here and no one could give me a solid answer. 

I just attributed it to a timing issue, something to do with the HG spacer. But then again, others have no problem running HG spacver and going above 20psi. So i have no idea


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> I went [email protected] in my MK2, both of our MPH's are enough to get you deep into the 12's, I was just banging out the worst 60 foot times all day, like 2.2/2.3.
> .


same for me on the 60fts. open diff and 195 45 16 sdrives.
my biggest change this year will be going from the mk3 tdi trans (CTN) to an EHA out of a mk4. first and second gears are about the same in the end but third and fourth are much shorter. hopefully that and a new intake with a vr TB will help.
I am also considering getting a 276 WL and removing the 268. and meth.
**** the list never ends.
I would like to go low 13s on my street tires. that would be nice


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

monoaural said:


> What are you using for a coil? I still am using the stock one, but once the gap grows to around 27, I get misfires.


I ran standalone and 034 wasted spark coil.... after living with crap management and a coil system that would misfire, especially after a raining day.


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## cifdig (Jun 4, 2005)

After 12 years of running 20psi + I bent a rod 😀 I would assume I was near the 300 mark. Car ran Perfect never ran lean. I guess it finally weakened. Doing a block and would like to know what you guys think.
Going 83.5 bore 95.5 stroke 159 rod . Eurospec crank , ie rods je pistons will get it blueprinted and balanced. Any other recommendation as far as stroke bore rod before I order.


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## shwagondawheels (Jun 18, 2004)

My K03 ABA using the USRT v walk manifold. Build thread is in my sig...


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

shwagondawheels said:


> My K03 ABA using the USRT v walk manifold. Build thread is in my sig...


eace:eace:eace:eace:eace:eace:


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Blurry pic for attention 

Hey got an axle question for you guys. My car has become notorious for breaking the driver side axle. 

Brief on the car: Mk1 Aba turbo. 57trim 12 pounds. 020 16v trans w/pelequin diff. have tried oem mk3 driver side axle, aftermarket mk3 ds. And aftermarket driver side scirocco 16v axle. 

I have only ever broke the driver side. Inner CV every time. Truly lost count how many times over the years. 

I'm considering taking the plunge and scooping up a "raxle" for the driver side and driver side only. Anyone have experience with the company? Considered DSS, but they cost ~$100 more. Please help!


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I've broken a few, only the OEM and EMPI axles seem to be worth a damn. (for stock CV shafts, not counting DSS or Raxle)

Also check your engine mounting, one time we were working on a mk2 that had a wrong mount in it and had a wicked rake to the transmission side, puts a lot of stress on that inner CV.


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## Cheeki Breeki GTI (Oct 10, 2016)

*aba running rich*

So i just finished my aba turbo build (5/18/17) and the car runs pretty rich. First off, here is the setup
obd2 aba in a mk1 with full ce2 swap
united Motorsports aba low comp tune
42# Bosch injectors 
head spacer
3" vr6 maf
268/260 turbo cam
fmic
2.5" downpipe
aem uego x wideband
small t3 turbo
bkr7e plugs gaped to .025
running wastegate pressure around 12
might be forgetting some other stuff

But anyways the car starts up at around 12 afr and then comes up to normal 14.5-15 once warmed up. Then when i push on the throttle it drops down to about 10. On the highway if im on the throttle its around 10. car smells stupid rich and id like to figure this out. I know Standalone is best but i know lots of people have great success with this setup. Thanks for an input or help!!!


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

could be a number of things, but i would guess that your air/fuel isn't being meterd properly. Will need to vag-com and run logs


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## Cheeki Breeki GTI (Oct 10, 2016)

So your saying my orimarty o2 sensor is not working correctly? The car stumbles sometimes and it's weird. I have to check for boost leaks again.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Cheeki Breeki GTI said:


> So your saying my orimarty o2 sensor is not working correctly? The car stumbles sometimes and it's weird. I have to check for boost leaks again.


MAF placement seems to be a big issue with that setup, as well as check what FPR you have in. There is a 3 bar and a 4 bar one.


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## Cheeki Breeki GTI (Oct 10, 2016)

Could a boost leak be causing all these issues? I cut the ends off my maf housing to shorten it and that removed the air straightener thing. The air filter is connected directly to the maf and then two 90° silicone bends to the turbo (I will post images later)


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

Cheeki Breeki GTI said:


> Could a boost leak be causing all these issues? I cut the ends off my maf housing to shorten it and that removed the air straightener thing. The air filter is connected directly to the maf and then two 90° silicone bends to the turbo (I will post images later)


Removing the air straightener is not a good idea. It allows accurate sampling to the sensor. It's especially important if you have a filter on the end.

Anyway how would an intake to the turbo be a BOOST leak? Lol think about that....


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## Cheeki Breeki GTI (Oct 10, 2016)

Quintin, that's what I though but my friend said it would "be okay". I will have to find another maf housing. As far as boost leak I was wondering if a leak anywhere in the pressurized side could be causing all these issues.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Get one of those fancy boost leak couplers and hook it to the inlet of your turbo and pump about 20psi thru the system.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

My truck falls on its face at 6k. Like almost a soft rev limiter. Obd1 head, tt g60 cam. Stock intake manifold. To4e 57 trim with .48 exhaust housing. Is this just the limit of stock head/manifold? Or perhaps my 200k mile valve springs are worn out?
I am running stock cam timing. 
It's a drag, as shifting around 6k means I am just out boost in the higher gear.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

monoaural said:


> My truck falls on its face at 6k. Like almost a soft rev limiter. Obd1 head, tt g60 cam. Stock intake manifold. To4e 57 trim with .48 exhaust housing. Is this just the limit of stock head/manifold? Or perhaps my 200k mile valve springs are worn out?
> I am running stock cam timing.
> It's a drag, as shifting around 6k means I am just out boost in the higher gear.


What is your AFR when this happens?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> What is your AFR when this happens?


~12. I will have to log it again to make sure, as all my old logs got lost with my old laptop. But there was no weird spikes or valleys in afr. It's on megasquirt.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

i wouldn't count on old logs to determine current conditions.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

wolfcastle said:


> i wouldn't count on old logs to determine current conditions.


Fair enough. But it has done it at least since it's been turbo'd.


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## U.G. MKV (May 31, 2010)

*USRT VWalk K03 Cooling*

Hey guys, We've finally got our ABA turbo setup running. We're having an issue with cooling the turbo. We're feeding the coolant to the turbo from the port on the head that feeds the recovery bottle and out of the turbo back to the recovery bottle. We're getting very little flow back to the bottle. I have checked the nipple in the head to make sure it's not clogged, all good there. I'm kinda thinking we have an air pocket in the cooling system. Anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

U.G. MKV said:


> Hey guys, We've finally got our ABA turbo setup running. We're having an issue with cooling the turbo. We're feeding the coolant to the turbo from the port on the head that feeds the recovery bottle and out of the turbo back to the recovery bottle. We're getting very little flow back to the bottle. I have checked the nipple in the head to make sure it's not clogged, all good there. I'm kinda thinking we have an air pocket in the cooling system. Anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


I had a gt28 on my mk2 and used that port. You have to measure it when the system is hot and pressurized as i believe more coolant will flow vs when cold.

If i did it over again, i would use the heater core line. I had issues with the expansion tank overflowing with this setup that you have. Wouldn't worry about the flow though, should be sufficent


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## U.G. MKV (May 31, 2010)

wolfcastle said:


> I had a gt28 on my mk2 and used that port. You have to measure it when the system is hot and pressurized as i believe more coolant will flow vs when cold.
> 
> If i did it over again, i would use the heater core line. I had issues with the expansion tank overflowing with this setup that you have. Wouldn't worry about the flow though, should be sufficent


I thought about teeing into both heater hoses bit I figure since they were both pressurized there would be no real circulation through the turbo. I just want to make sure the cooling is correct. When the car is fully warmed up there isn't mush flow going into the bottle that's why I wonder if we have an air pocket. Thanks for the reply


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## Cheeki Breeki GTI (Oct 10, 2016)

Any other ideas on why my car is running rich?


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

monoaural said:


> My truck falls on its face at 6k. Like almost a soft rev limiter. Obd1 head, tt g60 cam. Stock intake manifold. To4e 57 trim with .48 exhaust housing. Is this just the limit of stock head/manifold? Or perhaps my 200k mile valve springs are worn out?
> I am running stock cam timing.
> It's a drag, as shifting around 6k means I am just out boost in the higher gear.


Is this in the Rabbit under your name?

Are you using a OEM fuel pump? The older K-Jet fuel pump relays have a rev limiter built into them, the base cars were about 6000rpm I think?

If so, replace it with the horn relay and see if that lets you run up past 6000rpm. That will run the fuel pump constant, which you DO NOT want. But If it does fix your prblem, then it is the built in rev cut in your relay. You can replace it with an OEM relay from a 16v MK2, (Which I think moves it up to 7000rpm or 7200rpm) or with one from an older K-Jet 5cyl Audi (Like an Audi 5000) Which will move it up to 7750rpm (If I did that math right). I just ordered one from an Audi 5000 off Rockauto, solved the issue for me. I had the same issue with my MK2.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> Is this in the Rabbit under your name?
> 
> Are you using a OEM fuel pump? The older K-Jet fuel pump relays have a rev limiter built into them, the base cars were about 6000rpm I think?
> 
> If so, replace it with the horn relay and see if that lets you run up past 6000rpm. That will run the fuel pump constant, which you DO NOT want. But If it does fix your prblem, then it is the built in rev cut in your relay. You can replace it with an OEM relay from a 16v MK2, (Which I think moves it up to 7000rpm or 7200rpm) or with one from an older K-Jet 5cyl Audi (Like an Audi 5000) Which will move it up to 7750rpm (If I did that math right). I just ordered one from an Audi 5000 off Rockauto, solved the issue for me. I had the same issue with my MK2.


Yep, in the rabbit caddy. 
Was originally a diesel, using a Bosch fuel pump from an 80s ford. Fuel pump relay is on all new wiring, triggered from the megasquirt, not the coil. 

It is not a hard cut, just stops pulling. Boost stays the same, timing map doesn't drop off.
And didn't run a log, but did watch afr's, was around 12. 

The reason I am wondering about valve springs, because the dyno pulls were a bit choppy. (But, was also running on old plugs that failed a couple of days later)


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Not sure there. I was running a Schick 272 in an OBD2 head with some minor home porting. But also TT HD springs. I ran that setup with the smaller turbo (.42/.48 Straight T3) up to 7000rpm many times, seems to like it.

switched to a T04e with a .63 turbine and a smaller cam (268/260) Which was a terrible mismatch. If your going big, go big with the cam too and just rev the h=ll out of it. I was trying to buy some torque back, but it just made it soggy down low and without the happiness up high the bigger cam had..

You say you are Mega Squirt? Who did your tuning? Are they bringing timing back in after the peak torque event? On these 8v's the VE drops fast and they need some timing added back to pull clean at high revs.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> Not sure there. I was running a Schick 272 in an OBD2 head with some minor home porting. But also TT HD springs. I ran that setup with the smaller turbo (.42/.48 Straight T3) up to 7000rpm many times, seems to like it.
> 
> switched to a T04e with a .63 turbine and a smaller cam (268/260) Which was a terrible mismatch. If your going big, go big with the cam too and just rev the h=ll out of it. I was trying to buy some torque back, but it just made it soggy down low and without the happiness up high the bigger cam had..
> 
> You say you are Mega Squirt? Who did your tuning? Are they bringing timing back in after the peak torque event? On these 8v's the VE drops fast and they need some timing added back to pull clean at high revs.


Local turbo expert did the dyno tuning. He did bring some timing back into it. 

I wonder if it is just the combination of cam/turbo/head. 

I also think I need to get my tuner to do some street tuning.


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## dkoesyncro (Jul 29, 2016)

U.G. MKV said:


> Hey guys, We've finally got our ABA turbo setup running. We're having an issue with cooling the turbo. We're feeding the coolant to the turbo from the port on the head that feeds the recovery bottle and out of the turbo back to the recovery bottle. We're getting very little flow back to the bottle. I have checked the nipple in the head to make sure it's not clogged, all good there. I'm kinda thinking we have an air pocket in the cooling system. Anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


That nipple is to remove any pressure that has built up, the coolent stream out of there is more like a coffee perk if that makes sense. A heater hose tap is a good choice.

I'm using the USRT manifold as well coupled an F21 from monster turbo real soon! My application is different though...


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## impulse byer (Mar 8, 2003)

G60 Carat said:


> Not sure there. I was running a Schick 272 in an OBD2 head with some minor home porting. But also TT HD springs. I ran that setup with the smaller turbo (.42/.48 Straight T3) up to 7000rpm many times, seems to like it.


 Any dyno graphs for that set up? how was the power band?


Question for anyone in here. How much is a big valve kit or porting worth (cost per HP gain) on a boosted 8vt?


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Finally installed a 276 turbo cam and HD valve spring. While i was at it refreshed the head with new seals and guides.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

TM87 said:


> Finally installed a 276 turbo cam and HD valve spring. While i was at it refreshed the head with new seals and guides.


Who made this cam? I have a cam with that IDPL marking, it's clearly aftermarket, but no idea anymore info about it. It came in a spare motor I bought.


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Its a TT276 cam wide lobe


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Anyone selling, or have an old turbo manifold laying around they are willing to part with?


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## DMehalko(DM) (Nov 1, 2004)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Anyone selling, or have an old turbo manifold laying around they are willing to part with?


I have a brand new T3 manifold without a wastgate provision thats sitting in my storage:thumbup:


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

anybody running say 20psi ish on stock internals with arp headstuds with STOCK compression and METH?
i ask cause i am pulling my head to fix an oil leak and i thinking about removing my HG spacer since i am adding meth.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I've ran as high as 18psi and 55hp nitrous on a 9:1 motor, the new one on the stand in my garage is a 10:1, but I plan on capping that at about 15psi max. I'm pretty sure you can get away with 20psi, the question at what point is it diminishing returns with more timing pulled vs increased efficiency via compression ratio??


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## therealvrt (Jul 21, 2004)

G60 Carat said:


> I've ran as high as 18psi and 55hp nitrous on a 9:1 motor, the new one on the stand in my garage is a 10:1, but I plan on capping that at about 15psi max. I'm pretty sure you can get away with 20psi, the question at what point is it diminishing returns with more timing pulled vs increased efficiency via compression ratio??


i pussed out and put it back in. i really didn't feel like breaking an engine


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## dkoesyncro (Jul 29, 2016)

*Vanagon Syncro ABA-T*

Is it possible to run dis or cop on motronic 5.9.1 obd2? My Sri makes it difficult to access my distributor in fact this whole area​ is tight access.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

dkoesyncro said:


> Is it possible to run dis or cop on motronic 5.9.1 obd2? My Sri makes it difficult to access my distributor in fact this whole area​ is tight access.


Sort of. 

You can't just switch an OEM dizzy management over to Coil on Plug, but you could use a standalone controller for just the ignition. Something like Microsquirt is very affordable has just the right amount of I/O for that. Then you need to add a Cam (wasted spark) or Crank sensor.

But once you figure all that out, you might as well run the whole thing on standalone


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## dkoesyncro (Jul 29, 2016)

For what ever reason, I'm having a hell of of time linking a picture or posting my set up.

I was comparing the AAA and ABA harnesses and was thinking I might be able to bastardized the two? Although without both in hand it's difficult to say if it would work. Jumping between schematics in the Bentley it's easy to lose your self. 

I'm happy with the UM I'm using, I'm only boosting 10 lbs, the Syncro trans is fragile and expensive. I'm just trying? to clean up the engine bay for better access.

As far as sem, I'm reading! Lots to learn and educate myself on. Obviously the mega squirt has some very affordable options especially putting forth some sweat equity.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Any of you stock bottom end guys take the factory pistons out and open the ring gap up?

Or do you just go to town?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

G60 Carat said:


> Any of you stock bottom end guys take the factory pistons out and open the ring gap up?
> 
> Or do you just go to town?


I have been thinking the same thing. I wonder how much a stock bottom end can take with opened ring gaps.


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## Arbor89 (Feb 9, 2017)

Does any one have any more info on the 1.8T fluid dampers on our ABA engines? I need a new balancer and if its easy enough to go with the fluid one i will go the route.

Cheers


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## Arbor89 (Feb 9, 2017)

I also inquired with this company for a phenolic spacer for the ABA and now they are available.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192337347768


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Arbor89 said:


> Does any one have any more info on the 1.8T fluid dampers on our ABA engines? I need a new balancer and if its easy enough to go with the fluid one i will go the route.
> 
> Cheers


I run one on my built ABAT. A forum sponsor Issam, INA had spacers at one time for sale. I run an old stand alone by SDS EFI. I wanted a good metal pulley with no deflection under load, as my crank sensor magnets are installed in it. It also serves as a great vibration dampener. Win win for me....expensive, but what on my engine isn’t?


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

Anyone seen this? The video was posted months ago and SPA website says "coming soon." I;d be surprised if this made it to market at this point. Looks like it utilizes the same bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold as a 16v does.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

I've seen this kicking around my Facebook a bit. I wonder the actual cost of it?

I started with ABA because I was already G60, and it was a cheap and easy transition to go turbo 8v from there. I already had a few different cams and other stuff that I could re-use (including some bottom ends) Just hit the wreckers up and get an ABA head, and $200 in TT HD springs and I was good. I even run it on a modified G60 management. 

Now that I have MegaSquirt 2, I feel like it will go 1.8t in the future. I mean I can grab a junkyard 1.8t for $330 cdn and there is tons of Mk4 with them at my local wreckers. It just makes more sense to put rods (and maybe pistons, depends how nuts you want to go) into a 1.8t, than buy a expensive 8v head. :screwy::screwy:


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## wolfcastle (Jul 28, 2006)

I agree with you on that Carat. This is why you probably haven't seen the head being produced and sold. People aren't modifying the ABA's anymore, and if they are, they are using mostly 2nd hand parts.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Agree on all counts. It's almost easier to find a cheap 1.8t than a ABA donor car. I am moving all my turbo stuff to a new chassis, and it is tempting to just go 1.8t. 

And turbo 8v stuff is about making power for cheap. Or at least trying to do it for cheap, blowing your budget, and then wanting more power and blowing it (the budget, or the motor) again.


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## TM87 (Dec 30, 2008)

Its interesting to see that im not the only one thinking of abandoning ship and moving to 20v. 
My plan is to go stand-alone over the winter, and im wondering if its just easier to drop in 1.8t instead(cheaper). 
2nd hans parts are all over the place, and could be had for cheap. I already built 2.1T 20v 5-6yrs ago in my mk4. Prices are more affordable now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## g60vwr (Apr 9, 2000)

wolfcastle said:


> I agree with you on that Carat. This is why you probably haven't seen the head being produced and sold. People aren't modifying the ABA's anymore, and if they are, they are using mostly 2nd hand parts.


I spoke with Fillippe from SPA at SEMA last week. 

The reason they made the head is in Brazil, they are not allowed to change the engine from original configuration. The head was built for racers, and he has said some guys have made 2-300 hp more with this head design. 
The head was made so there was plenty of room to mod the hell out of it. He said the head out of the box flows just about as much as a 16v.

The head is available, and one of the guys on FB has one at his machine shop.

SPA also told me that Bobatuning has one and is going to town on it - he showed me some personal pics of some of the sick things people have done to the heads


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## RockinRam96 (Sep 11, 2017)

Curious to know what you guys are using for an exhaust manifold when turboing these engines? What are you using for a throttle body? Will the factory throttle body work or is a throttle body required that will work with the charge air?

Also, what supporting mods are NEEDED to turbo a 2.0L. Looking for the minimum necessary upgrades to utilize a turbo.


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

RockinRam96 said:


> Curious to know what you guys are using for an exhaust manifold when turboing these engines? What are you using for a throttle body? Will the factory throttle body work or is a throttle body required that will work with the charge air?
> 
> Also, what supporting mods are NEEDED to turbo a 2.0L. Looking for the minimum necessary upgrades to utilize a turbo.


Do you already have a turbo? I used an 'eBay' type cast T3 manifold with no wastegate hole in it. It will really depend what turbo you're using, if it's T3 flanged and internal wastegate, those work fine, if it's external wastgate there is version of that cast manifold with a wastegate port. There is also the same thing in T25 flange, and SPA turbo sells pretty much any variation of turbo manifold you could want. They are a Brazilian company, but they have an eBay store and US website (as far as I can tell ran by 1 guy in California as a go between SPA Brazil and USA/Canada)

These start at $60 USD, and go up to about $220 for the SPA stuff











OEM Throttle body is totally fine. If you're going standalone, the OBDI throttle body is easier to work with as it only has a TPS on it and no stepper/idle motor. If you're going C2, keep what's on there.









Depending on what you do for management answers a lot of your questions. I started by running mine on a modified G60/Digifant ECU. The easiest way to get going is get C2's Chip/Eprom, then all you need is that, the matching injectors, and probably a better fuel pump (I'm early MK2, so I had enough pump already)

http://www.c2motorsports.net/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=92

If you're into tweaking and potentially maximizing you're HP, than stand alone is the way to go. A lot of people here love Lugtronic, and they have some super fast cars! Megasquirt is also pretty popular, Micro Squirt actually has a enough I/O to run an ABA turbo. There is a lot of options there. 

Again you'll still need injectors, but at that point your options are wide open and you can just grab something large locally. (My Local Honda/Import Tuner facebook groups are great for parts like this, BOV, intercooler's, etc.) 

Intercooler would be nice, you definitely want one, but don't 100% need one to get up and running. Especially at lower boost levels. The eBay stuff works surprising well here, and often you can get an large IC and aluminum pipe/coupler kit for a couple hundred bucks or less. You'll still need some extra silicone couplers, one for the throttle body, the turbo outlet, and inlet to your filter. 

It's not super difficult or really that expensive, even on a budget, they can picked away with a part here and part there. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## RockinRam96 (Sep 11, 2017)

G60 Carat said:


> Do you already have a turbo? I used an 'eBay' type cast T3 manifold with no wastegate hole in it. It will really depend what turbo you're using, if it's T3 flanged and internal wastegate, those work fine, if it's external wastgate there is version of that cast manifold with a wastegate port. There is also the same thing in T25 flange, and SPA turbo sells pretty much any variation of turbo manifold you could want. They are a Brazilian company, but they have an eBay store and US website (as far as I can tell ran by 1 guy in California as a go between SPA Brazil and USA/Canada)
> 
> These start at $60 USD, and go up to about $220 for the SPA stuff
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. I’m very mechanically inclined. Have come from working on big Diesel engines. Just need a starting point. 


No I don’t have a turbo. Just looking for an easy reliable setup. Just looking for a conservative setup. The body of my car is in great shape motor runs good just sluggish. Looking for a little more spunk. 


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

There is still obviously lots of mini projects to tackle, you'll have to make a downpipe, swap in colder plugs, fabricate an intake setup of some kind, etc. The best thing about the ABA is it's not very expensive to turbo at at all. Plus there is lots of people that have done it, all many different ways, and they can usually help you out if you get stuck with yours. :thumbup:


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## simoned1turbo (Nov 16, 2013)

*SPA turbo x flow head*

I have 1 of these SPA Turbo heads in the UK.Its going on my mk2 golf edition 1 later this year.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Hey all...anyone running a “ram horn” style tubular exhaust/turbo manifold? Thinking about making one for the rabbit. I could have sworn USRT sold a DIY kit back in the day, but no luck finding said kit. Anyone have any insight? Thanks in advance

Steve


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## tyrone27 (Sep 7, 2001)

with the SPA 8v head out now whats the expected HP of the 8v's now? 16v are pushing 400-500whp stock internals.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

tyrone27 said:


> with the SPA 8v head out now whats the expected HP of the 8v's now? 16v are pushing 400-500whp stock internals.


well 8v can push 400-700whp on factory head with port work and cams...sooooo we'll see what the SPA head allows.


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## EuroSport98 (Sep 25, 2001)

I thought I’d jump in and share my results from a recent trip to the dyno. Not too bad 

Setup:
T3/T4 50 Trim .63
440cc Green tops
Walboro 255 inline pump
United Motorsport Stage 2 F/I Software
Autotech 270 cam
Port & Polish/Big Valve Head
Custom short runner intake
Stacked OEM head gaskets
2.5 inch downpipe/catback (w/high flow cat)
Stock pistons/con rods
ARP hardware
15 PSI
248 WHP 263 WTQ


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

I have read thru a lot of these posts, but certainly not all 130 pages.

I'm contemplating on putting a turbo on my wife's 91 Cabriolet. I have an ABA bottom end that I will be putting in and when I do this, that is when I would put the turbo on it too. I'm thinking 10psi and when I drive it, 15psi. 

I'm not looking for max power. The car has an automatic and it just needs a bit more power while driving around town. The turbo I'm looking at is Borg Warner EFR 6258. It seems to fit the bill, but I'm open to suggestions. I was looking at the Garrett GT2560R but I think it would be a tad small. The Garrett GT2860RS seems like it may be the right size, but the spooling may be slightly less compared to the EFR 6258

Again, I'm not looking for max power at 7k, my wife does not drive like that. Just a good power range from 2-6k. Do not worry about the automatic, I have a Porsche 944 transmission and a TJ final drive that should handle the extra power.

Any suggestions?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Butcher said:


> I have read thru a lot of these posts, but certainly not all 130 pages.
> 
> I'm contemplating on putting a turbo on my wife's 91 Cabriolet. I have an ABA bottom end that I will be putting in and when I do this, that is when I would put the turbo on it too. I'm thinking 10psi and when I drive it, 15psi.
> 
> ...


I just put a GT2860RS on my rabbit (had a t040e 57 trim on before). Running 12 psi currently on a full aba long block and the TT G60/turbo 270 cam. The GT28rs is great for mid range power. And now rolling on the throttle in second blows the tires off. And downshifts on the freeway are no longer remotely necessary. I need to run a log, but I have seen 5 psi at 2500 in fifth. 

Depending on what power level you are looking for, a k04 or similar could be an option.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Thanks for the information. That is what I'm looking for. 

I like the EFR technology but the price is a bit high. According to the information I found, the boost could come in lower. The GT2860RS at 5psi/2,500rpm may not be that bad.

Stock compression?


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

Butcher said:


> Thanks for the information. That is what I'm looking for.
> 
> I like the EFR technology but the price is a bit high. According to the information I found, the boost could come in lower. The GT2860RS at 5psi/2,500rpm may not be that bad.
> 
> Stock compression?


Yep. Completely stock long block besides the cam. I am running closed loop boost control through megasquirt, which helps a bit too. Wastegate stays closed until it reaches the boost raged.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Thanks, I'll post what I do when I figure out what is best.


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## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

ko3s?


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

I have a T25 manifold so I would like to keep that bolt pattern. I'm leaning toward the Borg Warner since they seen to have the latest technology. 

The thing I do not like is that they have a 3" V band turbine outlet and I think that would be a bitch to taper it down to 2.25".


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Butcher said:


> I have read thru a lot of these posts, but certainly not all 130 pages.
> 
> I'm contemplating on putting a turbo on my wife's 91 Cabriolet. I have an ABA bottom end that I will be putting in and when I do this, that is when I would put the turbo on it too. I'm thinking 10psi and when I drive it, 15psi.
> 
> ...


For an automatic car, I would be tempted to go even smaller. Like a GT2554 or whats sometimes called a GT25R. Go for that spool and torque build, plus I think a GT2554 would have no issues running at 15psi - 20psi or more and should be capable of 250hp or more. Seems like a better fit for a automatic daily driver type.

I know some GT25's came on Nissans stock. So there might even be some good used ones out there on the Nissan forums, or a cheap rebuildable one?


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

That is what I originally started to look at. I will check the compressor map again. 

I appreciate you looking at my requirements and not suggesting something huge. If you have ever drove a VW Cabriolet with an automatic, they are pretty gutless. With the transmission ratio, the freeway driving is unbearable. With the lower ratio of the TJ final drive, the noise will be down as well as the power. I'm hoping if I design/fabricate a turbo for needs, it will bring the car up to modern times.

My goal is 10psi but I'm designing it for 15 psi. The pressure ratio for the GT2554R is a bit low and I would on the top 65% of that chart. By the time I get to 5k, then I would be almost leaving the flow map. At 10 psi, it may be ideal but that turbo would never make it to 20 psi efficiently.


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## Hank1ny (Sep 1, 2018)

I am facing the same questions that you are. I have a 96 cabrio aba with a 5 spd(only difference). With my special exhaust( read: muffler delete) it feels great and fast until I realize grandma is zipping by me in her 1975 Kia Spectre. I've been looking at everything from a stock tdi turbo to an eBay kit with a k03/04. I will be moving battery to trunk and putting an air to air ic in it's place and putting a scoop on the hood to help funnel air to it. I would like low end spool up as opposed to 7500 rpm power.


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## tyrone27 (Sep 7, 2001)

How would a GT30 or GT35 turbo hold up with the ABA head?

GT30 GT3037 Turbo Charger 0.6 A/R 0.82 Turbine

GT35 GT3582 Turbo Charger AR.70/63


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

I have spent a lot of time checking compressor maps to figure out what would work on an ABA. The simplest way without looking at maps is to see what the HP of the turbo is rated for. A quick search list those at 500-600 HP.

Do you really honestly think you will be doing that much power? If you think you are, do you really think you could drive it on the street?

My guess is that the turbo is too big and will come on too late. Could it work? Not for what I'm looking for. Look for a turbo that is rated at 300-400 HP. Anything more would be too big. 

What you should do is find a turbo calculator and spend the time to understand how it works. Plug in the numbers and see what you get. https://www.enginelogics.com/read-a-turbo-compressor-map/

This is by far the best but they only have Borg Warner maps http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/aftermarket/matchbot/

This one is not too bad. It gives you the numbers fairly quick, but you have to find the maps to plot the numbers. http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=35&Itemid=49


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## G60 Carat (May 14, 2004)

Butcher said:


> What you should do is find a turbo calculator and spend the time to understand how it works. Plug in the numbers and see what you get. https://www.enginelogics.com/read-a-turbo-compressor-map/
> 
> This is by far the best but they only have Borg Warner maps http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/aftermarket/matchbot/
> 
> This one is not too bad. It gives you the numbers fairly quick, but you have to find the maps to plot the numbers. http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=35&Itemid=49


My Man.

Not2Fast has a pre configured for VW/Audi enginse turbo calaculator.

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/configs.html

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

And yes ABA is in there. 

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/gloss...&Stroke=92.8&VE=80&SFC=0.43&AFR=13.8&RPM=5400


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

rodperformance said:


>


^ I really like this intake setup. Very compact and looks like it could almost pass for stock.


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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

EuroSport98 said:


> I thought I’d jump in and share my results from a recent trip to the dyno. Not too bad
> 
> Setup:
> T3/T4 50 Trim .63
> ...


how does you boost, timing, and a/f look? Curious about why it drops off so sharply form 6200 to 7k. I don't recall the 270 cam being that poor up top.


And now that i look at it... i see the problem...you need to up that DP to 3in. FOR SURE.


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## jettatech (Oct 26, 2001)

Hmm. I have 297 with a 2.5 down pipe...


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## nelson_dub (Jan 17, 2019)

*New to the thread..*

Hey man not sure if you will see this or not, Im starting an 8v build right now, looking into what I need for a reliable yet fun car. I already have a custom SRI mani, turbo with mani. I know I have to get head studs, head spacer, and injectors and all of that good stuff however do I really need cams and valves? because I can get an OBD1 head for free and I hear those come with high rev springs from factory, Just a question for you thanks.:wave:


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Need? No.

Want? Maybe. I have no need to see max power at 7k rpm. In reality, I never drive at that rpm so why have a cam that works well at that speed?

What you should do is look at what you really want out of the engine. What is your turbo sized at? If it is sized for top flow at high rpm, then maybe a larger cam would be for you. If the turbo is smaller, designed for good mid-range power, then a larger cam probably will not do so much for you. Smaller turbos will have a higher exhaust pressure at higher rpm's so having a higher lift cam really won't help you that much.


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## nelson_dub (Jan 17, 2019)

*Onto the next important question..*

Okay thank you for that. Now I have another one. I'm building a short runner manifold, wondering what type of throttle usually works with those depending on which way you throw the intake side off of? I've tried to find this on a couple threads now and I cant so any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
:banghead:


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Can't help you with that. If the throttle is too big, the driveability will suffer. It will be like like an on/off switch. Too small will hinder HP. You got to find out what baby bear likes. He always finds out what is just right.


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## vweatsvtec (Dec 16, 2009)

Hey guys I think it’s time I introduce my setup even though she’s giving me problems now. 

Bought the car with a stock aba with eBay turbo on it. Ended up melting a piston. Acquired an obd1 engine and called techtonics and ordered forged everything, rods, pistons, all arp hardware, tt 272 cam, oversized valves, the whole shebang. Ordered up a garret gtx2867r with 3” v band. Ordered a water to air intercooler and got to work. It pulled pretty







hard and ran great. Until h20 return trip this year. Found a leak from manifold to turbo. Drove the car home and put a new gasket in it and it runs crazy rich now and won’t go into boost. Will just peg the afg gauge at 10 and will stutter and not go anywhere. Trying to find out why it’s dumping so much fuel. Has new plugs capped down to .022 new coil, wires,cap, rotor. I just wired in the obd2 port so I can try and see if I can find something. I should note that the harness I just put in the car had the maf and 02 sensor wires just twisted and e taped together so I cut cleaned and soldered them. but i did this a few days before the drive down to Maryland and it ran great the whole way down and while down there. I’m also still on um 440 file.
Want to go megasquirt down the road.










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## [email protected] (Oct 6, 2009)

MAF might have crapped out from the sounds of it.


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## vweatsvtec (Dec 16, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> MAF might have crapped out from the sounds of it.


It ended up being leaking exhaust manifold gaskets. She runs nice again 


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## patriff6394 (Aug 20, 2016)

So I tried to follow all the posts because I’m just starting out so I apologize, but I’m looking for a complete engine build. Nothing crazy, but I don’t want to run stock bottom/top end. I just don’t know what parts to go for to do it safely. Sorry for the noob approach, but highly appreciated for any help.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

patriff6394 said:


> So I tried to follow all the posts because I’m just starting out so I apologize, but I’m looking for a complete engine build. Nothing crazy, but I don’t want to run stock bottom/top end. I just don’t know what parts to go for to do it safely. Sorry for the noob approach, but highly appreciated for any help.


How much power do you want to make? Unless you want to make crazy power, a stock long block is fine. From this thread, it appears that 300 whp is the limit of the the stock bottom end for an aba. Things add up quick, and more so if you start adding up internals and machine work. 

I’m only at ~200whp currently, so I am a small fry. At least until the next trip to the dyno, and see how close I get to 300hp. Then I will be a medium fry. Gt28rs, TT g60/turbo cam, megasquirt. I have a feeling the cam is going to be the bottleneck. Or me wussing out.


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## BonusParts (Aug 1, 2009)

Cant wait to join in this thread officially. I have a pile of parts, just have to change some things with the car before it gets boost. 
I've combed this entire thread for ideas, tips and tricks.

Shooting for 220whp on 10-12psi 42# injectors, Reflect Chip tune, yadda yadda. 

Will post pics when i make meaningful progress!


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Running a Garret 57 trim. Had the turbo forever (~10 years). Want to upgrade. I’m dead set on a Garret 3071. Question is, in your opinion(s) .63 AR, .82, or 1.06. Which is the best route for the ABA? I kinda reaching out here for testimonial purposes. I want ball bearings in my life. I also only run off the gate. ~12-13 lbs. Don’t really want to crank boost either. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!

Steve


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## jimivr6 (Feb 18, 2003)

.82 or 1.06 goin to be real laggy. My t3/t04e 60 with a .63 doesn't wake up until 4k.


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

Garret recommends that turbo for a 2.5L-3.5L engine. Why would you want a turbo so big? Esp for a 2 valve ABA engine.

Contrary to what you read, a large turbo is probably not what you want. Especially since you do not want to go much more than 12psi. Spend some time with a turbo calculator and size the smallest turbo for your wants. Sure a small turbo may not give you the power you want at 7k rpm, but when are you ever there? 

Look into a EFR6258, they are not cheap but that should provide the boost you want at a low RPM and be healthy enough to get to 7k without loosing a lot of power.
https://turbos.borgwarner.com/en/aftermarket/efr.aspx


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Running a Garret 57 trim. Had the turbo forever (~10 years). Want to upgrade. I’m dead set on a Garret 3071. Question is, in your opinion(s) .63 AR, .82, or 1.06. Which is the best route for the ABA? I kinda reaching out here for testimonial purposes. I want ball bearings in my life. I also only run off the gate. ~12-13 lbs. Don’t really want to crank boost either. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Steve


I went from a t04e 57 trim with a .63, then .48, then a Gt28rs. Each was an improvement. All around 13-15psi.


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## Bad Rabbit Habit (May 5, 2005)

PerkeyTurkey said:


> Running a Garret 57 trim. Had the turbo forever (~10 years). Want to upgrade. I’m dead set on a Garret 3071. Question is, in your opinion(s) .63 AR, .82, or 1.06. Which is the best route for the ABA? I kinda reaching out here for testimonial purposes. I want ball bearings in my life. I also only run off the gate. ~12-13 lbs. Don’t really want to crank boost either. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Steve


I went from a t04e 57 trim with a .63, then .48, then a Gt28rs. Each was an improvement. All around 13-15psi.


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## PerkeyTurkey (Dec 4, 2007)

Alright fair enough. I will do some more research. Thank for the input!


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*dry sump*

I had a dry sump setup on my 2.0L turbo. I also had the 16v head from europe.

I have been out of the scene for a while, I will look for some pics.

The car has long since been parted but I still have the dry sump setup. All parts were sourced new and used about a few months. Any interest in the setup?


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