# CC ECU Removal Instructions



## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

2010 CC ECU removal procedure : (Note My 2010 CC was built in Jan 2010, and did not have the ECU anti-tamper bolts and bracket)
Also, the wiper arms DO NOT need to be removed, the drivers side half of the plenum cover (where the arm pivots go through) does not need to be removed to get to the ECU.
1) Put wipers in the service position (within 10 sec of Ignition OFF, push the wiper stalk down and release)
2) Open the hood
3) Remove (pull straight up) the rubber weather-strip seal at the rear of the engine compartment, base of windshield.
4) Remove the 3 metal spring clips that hold the plastic plenum cover to the front metal plenum edge. Also open the clip that hold the washer hose (and nozzle heater wires) to the plenum cover.
5) Lift up the front edge of the plastic plenum cover, at the very left of it, passenger side, and slip your other hand underneath, towards the back edge (at the windshield..)
6) Slowly push up at the back edge, disengaging the back edge from the attachment channel, continue moving to the right (drivers side) till the entire left plenum panel is free. Remove the panel and set aside.
7) Close the hood
8) Turn ignition on, push the wiper stalk down and release, the wipers should return to the normal "home" position. Open your drivers window, then turn Ignition off, remove the key. (Note : open the window because once the Battery is disconnected, you won't be able to open the door)
9) Open hood
10) Remove the black plastic battery cover.
11) Remove the NEG battery cable (nearest the firewall), 10mm nut, push the cable aside so it can't spring back and touch the NEG battery post
13) Slide the ECU connector locking clips outward, to release the two connectors.
12) Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts on the front of the ECU cradle.
14) Spread the cradle arms (were held by the bolts) slightly apart, and pull-out the ECU box.
To reverse :
15) Install the ECU into the bracket, replace the two 10mm bolts.
16) Install the two connectors, pushing both locking tabs inwards, toward each other.
17) Connect the battery cable. DO not overtighten the cable clamp bolt !
18) Close the hood
18) Start your car, make sure the engine runs. I had no error codes/lights, nor did I have to reset anything, other than the clock
19) Shut off engine, within 10 sec of shut-off, move the wiper stalk down and release, the wipers should move up to the service position.
20) Open the hood
21) Reinstall the passenger side plastic plenum cover. At the center, slip the right side under the edge of the drivers side cover, then press edge onto the attachment channel, moving from the center to the left. Put the washer hose and wire back into the plastic clip.
22) Reinstall the 3 metal spring clips.
23) Reinstall the rubber weather-strip seal.
24) Reinstall the battery cover.
25) Close the hood
_Modified by CC'ed at 6:01 AM 3-10-2010_


_Modified by CC'ed at 1:48 PM 3-11-2010_


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## crazywayne311 (Jan 29, 2006)

*FV-QR*

why did you take your ECU out?


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

Maybe someone wants to get their ECU reflashed............


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## julius_the_cat (Nov 3, 2009)

*Re: (CC'ed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CC’ed* »_Maybe someone wants to get their ECU reflashed............

Thank you CC'ed. Look forward to using your instructions soon.


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## Brett_CC (Feb 23, 2010)

it took the shop i went to three hours because they haven't flashed a 2010 yet. they had to pry apart the ecu after cutting the seal. they were afraid they were going to brake it and almost told me they wouldn't do it. so the work is not done once you remove the ecu. oh and if anyone is flashing make sure you get the replacement ecu shear bolts they have to break (depending exactly when the car was built) to get it out. vw is getting clever and making it more and more difficult to flash these ecu's


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## kaysid (Dec 18, 2005)

*Re: CC ECU Removal Instructions (CC'ed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CC’ed* »_(Note My 2010 CC was built in Jan 2010, and did not have the ECU anti-tamper bolts and bracket)










So I guess were ok if our 2010's are built before Jan 2010?


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## TurboYo (Apr 1, 2010)

where do you get these replacement shear bolts straight from VW? What is this seal exactly is it just solicone sealing a box covering the ecu or is it like a warranty type sticker that once removed the dealer would know there is some tampering..


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## TurboYo (Apr 1, 2010)

*Re: (TurboYo)*

My CC has a build date of 2/2010 I removed the "plenum" cover and had the ecu exposed the only thing that appeared to be holding it were two 10mm bolts and the connectors ...














what am I missing here?? once its removed I see a post that there is more work but are you suer this is the same for those of us that have no shear bolts?? maybe its just torx and flash?? if its just flash than I don't see what the big deal is I mean It literally takes 5 minutes to pull that thing off, easier access than any other car Ive had where I had to be on the floor and maneuver under the dash or passenger kick panels..


_Modified by TurboYo at 2:57 PM 4-6-2010_


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## Brett_CC (Feb 23, 2010)

Next they have to pry open or "break" into the ecu to flash it. Taking out the ecu is the easy part


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The main point of my post is :
1) Not all 2010 ECUs have the security shear bolts, which will cost you an hour of labor from your Flash dealer.
2) It is easier to get access to the ECU than the CC Factory Service Manual states...it says that the wiper arms, and both sides of the plenum cover need to come off. Not really a big deal, but less work is allways better!


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## TurboYo (Apr 1, 2010)

*Re: (CC'ed)*

pry open consisted of removing 6 torx screws and cutting the "silicone"/gasket seal between the two halves and lifting the top.. just posting this info up because I though this was a long and tedious thing that would break stock stuff and totally show the dealer the ECU was messed with, I keep reading all the stuff about the 2010 ecu's and was panicking but, fear not, in the end, at least for mine, it was about a half hour job total with flash and all.. NO one hour labor or anything to take that out and "pry" it open..


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## Brett_CC (Feb 23, 2010)

Read apr's instructions. I watched the tuner "pry it open". That's what the instructions say. It doesn't damage anything if you do it right. Remember not all ecu's are the same. Depends on when it was built. Mine did not have those screws he was talking about. Either way it takes about an hour from beginning to end but worth every second.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The shear security bolts are on an extra bracket that has to be removed to pull the connectors off the ECU box. Some cars have this, and flash dealer will charge you to remove and replace this. These shear bolts are different than the ten-or-so screws that hold the cover on the ECU box.
Also, when the cover is pried-off the ECU box, there are two cautions :
1) The thin metal lip (on the cast ECU box) can be easily cracked/damaged, where a screwdriver is used to pry against (when removing the lid). This damage would be obvious evidence that the ECU was tampered with, if a Dealer inspects it.
2) The lid is glued to the ECU box, to seal the ECU from water entry. This is a potential problem for when the lid is reinstalled : the adhesive may not give a 100% water-tight seal when the lid is put back on. I would recommend that the lid screws be re-tighten some time after the ECU was put back in the car, as the lid screws may loose torque if the adhesive "flows" a little when the ECU gets warm.
3) After this re-torque, I would put a thin bead of clear RTV Silicone-Rubber around the lid perimeter, including where the black plastic connector body meets the lid, as an extra precaution against water entry into the ECU. You can always peel-off this RTV if you think the sealer might pull-up the plenum cover to visually inspect your ECU for evidence of tampering.


_Modified by CC'ed at 5:53 AM 4-7-2010_


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## Kryscanland (Apr 3, 2010)

*Re: (CC'ed)*

I have this new ECU, i had it flashed and who ever put it back together didnt seal the ECU cover right because I had water come threw and it fried the ECU completely. So I took it to the dealer and of course now they know the ECU was tempered with. VW wants to void my warrenty. Very dissapointed by the ECU flash that has to be pried open.


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

You should be dissapointed with the flash dealer who did not properly seal the lid when they put it back on the ECU.


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