# AUDI B4 2.3 10V Tuning advice for newbie please



## timmyturbo (May 11, 2013)

Hi people , i bought this car :
http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-m...650/1015720624

lots of work had been done to it , like entire new front end (new drop links , tie rod ends , track rods ,wishbone bones and hoses ) but even though all this had been done , the air filter was filthy and spider webbed .years ago ) and engine mounts .

i dont think the audi liked being stood pretty much for 3 years even though it was taxed and mot'd all that time . 

it has azev 1 17's and 2.25 inch stainless system , and lowered 40mm on standard shocks , which i find a really nice mix ( as opposed to bone jarring track car spec ) .

any ideas how to get more power ?? is a turbo job realistic ?? i have heard that with around £800 for parts and the same again for install i can have around 500bhp out of my engine !! is this true ?? i was amazed that the saab 9000's can be tuned to 450bhp all on totallystock engine and manifold . but the audi sounds better and looks better and handles better . i must admit i am a diehard SAAB and VOLVO nut , but now i love audi to . cheers all and thanks in advance


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## timmyturbo (May 11, 2013)

153 views and no help ?? i was told this was the go to site by a friendly GSF bristol employee , what gives ?? cheers


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## kyle_b (Jul 12, 2007)

check out motorgeek.com. Theres a lot more 5 cyl knowledge there


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## wabbitGTl (Jan 2, 2007)

^ What he said. Those engines aren't particularly popular in the aftermarket scene, but a turbo setup on a 10v is pretty reasonable and can be done with factory parts. Motorgeek is going to be you best bet stateside, or s2forum.com on your side of the pond has a ton of info and help that's more "local" to you.


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## WAUOla (Apr 15, 2005)

timmyturbo said:


> 153 views and no help ?? i was told this was the go to site by a friendly GSF bristol employee , what gives ?? cheers


Hey,
Being a little unspecific, it may not be so strange replies is kept back, as this is posted under forced induction - and from what I gather, you're having none of that.

So, in general there are a few things to clarify first as last...
I don't know which Audi 10V engine you have, but I'm assuming a 2309 "2.3E" naturally aspirated versions of 133 hp, as I'm used to here in Europe.

Back in the german haydays, the main tuning solution for normal roadgoing cars were stroke and/or bore. Oettinger for instance ran the 94,5mm crankshaft (like hensteeth!). Mainly seen in 20V high power builds, alot of guys tend to go 2.4~2.5L with combinations of 92,8mm stroke (as on Golf mk 3 tallblock engines) or the TDI 95,5.

Trying to figure out what the heck OEM parts I can utilize t re-assemble my Quattro Gr B alloy engine from the rallying era, I asked around and got some input.

It seems the 20V engines flow that much better, that hard core stroking the 10V aren't worth the effort unless you are really dedicated in burning a lot of money for the additional figures. In headers, there are some differences too, so scoring a type with bigger valves may help, but the "NG" engine you're most likely having has KE-jetronic injectors in the inlet, and doesn't have these as standard.


I am now considering uprating a little on a 1992 Audi 100 2.3E "AAR" code car myself, but with limitations in Bosch K-jetronic, and what's it for, I am only looking for better engine elasticity.

Doing so I'd say it is the minimum you must do, is getting another cam in there that will do the trick. There are some providers for sport cams, and I've been told from a local tuner, Velox Motor, they see good results on 272 and 270 degree cams with approx 11~11.4mm lift making it approx 150hp alone.

From here on, chose what you want to afford in total, and it can be done step-by-step.



My recommended options:
If you sincerely need big numbers, find another car or engine basis rather than the 10V 2.3E.
If you want more driveability and sportiness, step 1: new cam.
step 2: I would go port and polish the header, opting to continue running the original KE-jetronic.
step 3: bigger valves (inlets taken from original 38 to approx 40mm, and exhaust valves taken from original 33 to approx 35mm), and leave it at that.


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