# Head Unit Recommendation



## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Alright guys, I just bought a "new" '05 A4 last week and am looking for some recommendations when it comes to the radio. The one thing I really miss is bluetooth radio. What would you guys suggest for a head unit replacement? The unit right now is the stock double din unit (it says Audi Symphony under the tape player).

I'm looking for something that:

looks stock or is stock (same red backlight)
Easy to switch out (no modifications or re wiring)
and has bluetooth.

Any suggestions would be awesome! Thanks!


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Audi Android head unit*

Have you seen the Android units that are coming direct from china? They are a direct fit with aesthetics and connectors, they run a full android 4.4 so its essentially a tablet with bluetooth, wifi, cell modem... You can install any android app from google play store, you can add back up cameras, connect to OBD for on screen gauges... They run about $425 for the android version and about 325 for the windows version. You can find them on alibaba too.

I haven't seen much feedback on these yet although there are some youtube reviews and people seem happy.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Thanks for the reply markcm, that sounds promising...

do you have a link/model number for me to check out? It would be nice if someone on here had one and could give some thoughts.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I found this:

http://www.seicane.com/android-7-inch-car-dvd-player-for-audi-a4-touchscreen-gps-tv-ipod-3g-wifi-sia-9102

But still am unsure of how well it actually works...

I also forgot to mention it would be nice to be able to integrate satellite radio too


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I have mostly been looking at Alibaba or Aliexpress such as this search: http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...603&SearchText=audi+a4+andriod+dvd+navigation

The best reviews I've seen are on youtube from one of the suppliers called Witson although I don't like the look of where they put the SD card in the front lower center of their units.

From what I can tell, I haven't found any US sellers yet who are proficient in both English and know the units well so there is still some risk in buying as these will all come either directly are indirectly from Chinese sources with limited support.

One major remaining question I have which several suppliers have not been able to answer is if or how these units work with cars which have the factory BOSE system installed since speaker and LINE levels are handled differently. My car has a RNS-E with BOSE, I like the BOSE but honestly, the RNS-E seems like a pain to operate to me and is function limited.

Regarding satellite radio, that's a personal preference. I do not like it myself. I use my mobile phone with Slacker radio, I choose the music I want and cache it to the phone so there is not cellular data use, not drop outs and the sound quality is much better. This is a million times better selection than satellite and costs less too. I'm not sure if any of these Android based systems support that or not, you'll have to check their specifications. 

I am hoping too that there is someone already using one who can provide some good feedback; for now I'm just checking the few youtube reviews that are out there; and the question about BOSE too.


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## case sensitive (Oct 8, 2001)

Why not get one of these and keep the stock HU?: http://enfigcarstereo.com/DENSION_GBL3AU2.html


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

The reason I am interested in an Android unit is features like the touch screen and google maps rather than having to use the antiquated dial on the RNS-E to enter addresses and such. I am somewhat interested in the video in motion hack so that I could just project my iPHone's display on the RNS-E. Overall, I just like the idea of having a tablet like experience with including the OBDII options to display faults or gauges on the display as well.

I actually have 4 of these similar cars, A 2000 A4 avant, 2004 A4 avant, 2005.5 A4 avant and a 2002 passat wagon. In 3 of these vehicles we use the stock radios and an iphone interface that plugs into the CD changer port; this works well as it charges the phone, starts and stops play with the ignition, volume control is through the head unit, and you can skip tracks but there is no text display at all. This is a good solution for a very low cost of about $35 on ebay or amazon, here's an example of the adapter at *Amazon*. If you go this route, get the old apple 30-pin version and then get an authentic apple 30-pin to lightning adapter, this will pass the audio and power. Do not get the version with the lightning adapter already on it because there is only power, you have to use the headphone jack as well, then you also have to control your volume on the iPHone and the head unit and cannot skip tracks or start/stop with the ignition.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

After doing a little digging on the Witson product, I found this link in AudiZone..

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/643257-Witson-W2-A6964-Aftermarket-Nav-Review

Seems to be a pretty good product. I think I might go ahead and get it. I really like how you can change the boot logo to the Audi symbol too...Gives it that extra little OEM push..


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Good find on that review, thanks.

There are a million vendors of these and they seem to have little differences between them, even if they look identical. 

My main concern is that some definitively say the support cars with factory BOSE and some definitively say they do not support BOSE. If you're not aware, the BOSE I believe uses power from the head unit for the front speakers while it has an external amplifier for the rear speakers so its a mix of high and low level; and I think the BOSE speakers might be 2 ohm instead of 4 like most others on the market. I could be a bit off with this but I'm sure that BOSE and non-BOSE are not the same. I've been emailing quite a few vendors trying to figure this out.

So far, the folks from Seicane have adamantly assured me that their unit *SKU: 101228 Model:K7684* will support both BOSE and non-BOSE but have not been able to give me any definitive answer as to how it supports both, whether it be different wiring or software settings.

I inquired about a *Witson listed on Amazon*, this does not appear to be sold by Wiston directly as the price also seems marked up but none the less, they initially said it does not support BOSE and then replied back saying they talked to support and it DOES support BOSE as well as indicating the difference is in the cabling. Maybe the solution is just using the high level speaker outputs for the front speakers and using RCA output for the rear; even if this is the case, there needs to be some sort of cable adaption to get the low level signal from the RCA into the factory harness. I'm trying to get them to explain better

There is an *identical looking unit *on Alibaba Express which I inquired about and although it is lower cost, they adamantly told me it cannot support cars with factory installed BOSE, so go figure 

So do your homework when looking at these units, there are two primary configurations aesthetically, one looks like the examples I posted and the other look just like an RNS-E with the single control knob on the upper right. These also come with either Android or Window, the window is cheaper while the Android is more open to modification. The newer the unit, the more features it has like improved Bluetooth, faster processor, wifi, cellular, and the latest such as the seicane I linked to have a wifi-based Mirror cast to project your iPhone or Android phone's display and share data as a hotspot (this is very interesting for me).

Keep me posted, I'm right on the edge of pulling the trigger as well but want to be sure I'm getting the latest with the most functionality and be completely sure it does support BOSE. By the way, do you have BOSE in your car?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

It looks like you found a good bit of information...even if it might be a little contradicting  ...but you seem to have ended back up at the two brands I have been debating between. I'm pretty sure I don't have a Bose system in my car (there's not any branding that says I do, and I know Bose loves to put their name on things). Unless I'm mistaken, I think I've just got the regular factory system with the Audi Symphony unit. 

I looked at 3 of the units (one by *seicane*, one by *Witson*, and *this one* (not really sure who manufactures it). 

Besides the price difference and looks, they all seem to have the same basic features. It seems to just come down to which one do you like better? I mean...with them all being android 4.4.4 and all having the same processor, same amount of ram, and options, the internals LOOK to be the same. I also should point out because android is so customizable, you could pretty much just add in whatever isnt there after some hunting. I'm sure you can find updated firmware when released (I saw on one of the websites that they did release it and it even linked to a youtube video showing the upgrade). I myself am partial to the looks of the *Seicane* unit. It looks like it blends in nicely. It seems to be on sale for now...so....I may spend the next 10 hours debating and on the last few minutes of the sale just go ahead and pull the trigger and buy it. Seicane seems to have a nice *return policy* so I'm not too worried. 

I guess the only question you need answered is will it work with Bose systems?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Just came across another forum with a thread you're in..

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/575185-Experience-with-aftermarket-head-units-(Seicane-etc)

Let me know if you hear anything from Albert 68, It would be great to hear a review on the Seicane product


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> It looks like you found a good bit of information...even if it might be a little contradicting  ...but you seem to have ended back up at the two brands I have been debating between. I'm pretty sure I don't have a Bose system in my car (there's not any branding that says I do, and I know Bose loves to put their name on things). Unless I'm mistaken, I think I've just got the regular factory system with the Audi Symphony unit.


Correct, if you have BOSE, all the speaker grills will say BOSE on them.

I believe if you do not have BOSE, there is less concern for correct connectivity and operation. I see the "sale" timer too, I was wondering if that was just a website cookie "dangling carrot" to get you to order, or if it is an actual sale that will expire soon. Since the seicane unit is priced about the same as most $475, that hardly seems like a 45% off sale price to me. I certainly wont be buying the seicane for $688.

I really like the idea of MirrorLink capability on these newer units assuming it is stable.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Yeah, The mirror link is a nice little addition. I just wish I could find SOMEONE out there who has tried one of those brands. 

Did any of the units say if they were capacitive touch display or not btw?

---NVM...just looked, its in the title..capacitive=good

idk what to do


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*BOSE support with Android DVD Navigation unit in Audi*

I am super close to pulling the trigger myself.

I've emailed with several Chinese vendors of these head units regarding BOSE, although none of them can directly answer exactly how this is done, several of them tell me that it "definitely works with BOSE". 

From what I've put together from these emails, it seems some but not all of these units have RCA connectors on the head unit's QuadLock adapter connector which connects to the vehicle side car's quad Lock, the connector that originally plugged into the factory installed radio. There is an additional connector with the head unit for all of the RCA outputs, these headunit RCA outputs are connected to the RCA male "inputs" from the quadlock adapter cable which connect to the factory harness. Trying to simplify this explanation I'll say it a different way: they provide RCA connections on the Factory harness adapter which you patch together with the RCA outputs from the Head unit.

At least two of the vendors confirmed this is how BOSE is supported.

One more thing to note for anyone looking at any of these units from any of the suppliers. It seems pretty clear many of these come from common factories while the suppliers order them with a few unique features. This technology is changing quickly, I almost ordered one last night with Dual Core 1.6ghz processor and then last moment realized for $22 more, I could get the Quad Core. Quad core isn't readily advertised right now but both suppliers I'm looking at confirmed it is available.

The two primary suppliers I am looking at right now are both form Alibaba Express and offering the quad core with CAN bus, 1024 display, and BOSE optional support for about $440 shipped to USA. Note that I am in Washington state which is currently in a pissing match over taxes with Alibaba so we are the only state that cannot actually order from Alibaba at the moment, these vendors are:

*Jorge Car DVD Co,Ltd (click to see actual DVD unit)*

*ShenZhen Burgeon Technology Co.,Ltd (click to see actual DVD unit)*


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

markcm said:


> I am super close to pulling the trigger myself.
> 
> The two primary suppliers I am looking at right now are both form Alibaba Express and offering the quad core with CAN bus, 1024 display, and BOSE optional support for about $440 shipped to USA. Note that I am in Washington state which is currently in a pissing match over taxes with Alibaba so we are the only state that cannot actually order from Alibaba at the moment, these vendors are:
> 
> ...


Wanted to make sure you knew that those 2 units you linked are to duel core processors. I found a Quad core though after you pointed out that they are available *HERE (Quad core version)*

I'm so close to just getting that head unit and calling it done, but yeah, technology is changing so fast they are coming out with new things what seems to be daily. 

Thanks for all the information on the units though! youre confirming my suspicion that all the units are made at one place and then picked up by vendors with specific extras. Keep me posted if you hear more!


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I tried to buy it but got caught up by the "verified by visa" screen....It looked suspicious so I'm holding off. Have you used AliExpress before? I'm not too keen on putting my SSN, Credit card info, and password all in a single location.....


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> I tried to buy it but got caught up by the "verified by visa" screen....It looked suspicious so I'm holding off. Have you used AliExpress before? I'm not too keen on putting my SSN, Credit card info, and password all in a single location.....


I have not purchased from Alibaba directly , I am in Washington state which is currently in a tax "disagreement" with Alibaba so there are no sales/shipments currently permitted to Washington state. I have bought items that I found on Alibaba directly from sellers by contacting them and they billed me via PayPal.

Verified by Visa is a real feature, more and more sites are requiring this second level of security which actually makes a lot of sense, it requires a PIN for your credit card which makes it a lot harder for someone to steal your info and go on a spending spree without your PIN. If the link you are sent to doesn't look legitimate or secure, contact your CC issuing bank, I think they usually have a link on their website where you can set up a verified by Visa PIN. When I've done it directly through the vendor, it still routes me to a page at my bank, it looks a bit "suspicious" but it was legit.

I'm probably buying one next week (one of the suppliers told me they are on a 3 day Chinese holiday starting today), I'm arranging with a friend to have it sent to Oregon.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

awesome, Just paid...I'll try to keep everyone posted on how it turns out when i get it. I'll add photos of the install as well.

My main concern is battery drain...have you asked suppliers about that?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> awesome, Just paid...I'll try to keep everyone posted on how it turns out when i get it. I'll add photos of the install as well.
> 
> My main concern is battery drain...have you asked suppliers about that?


Which one did you go with?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I went with the Quad core processor

*[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad/32330878212.html*[/URL]

It has everything I'm looking for, seems to be faster than the duel core, and is under 500 shipped.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> I went with the Quad core processor
> 
> *[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad/32330878212.html*[/URL]
> 
> It has everything I'm looking for, seems to be faster than the duel core, and is under 500 shipped.


Cool, that's the one I'm looking at too.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

UPDATE:

So, The item shipped from Hong-Kong and over the weekend managed to clear customs and make it to NC to be delivered this morning (2 day shipping from china...BLEW MY MIND) but anyway, It unfortunately had to be signed for (which is good..it wont get stolen) so I have to wait until tomorrow for them to re deliver it where I will be home to accept the package. From there, I plan on Installing it tomorrow night and will hopefully post pictures of the whole thing once it's finished!

I'm pretty excited. It will be such a relief to have bluetooth back in my car (I've been driving my MK3 Golf around just for the fact that it has bluetooth radio RMT200 Eurospec)


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I'm looking forward to hearing more

In the meantime, I've been restoring my RNS-E with a new laser, screen, and iPhone adapter. Now I waiting on the 2015 map update I ordered. This is better than a symphony radio but I still would like all the features of one of these android units like touch screen, google maps and running SLACKER radio right from the HU.

I'm looking at a new* unit from Made-in-China.com that has the same look as an RNS-E*. This is $430 shipped with quadcore 16gb RAM.

Anyway, let us know once you've had a chance to check it out!


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Arrived during lunch today!

Installing it when i get home from work. Been spending all day thinking about where I'm going to install the USB charging cable and the GPS antenna

The unit itself was packaged very nicely and looks very clean. It feels sturdy and well made...cant wait to see how it starts.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

opcorn:


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

OK! so...It's in. I got a little too excited last night and forgot to take pictures of the process but below are the troubles i ran into.

The whole process took me about a total of 30 minutes to remove the head unit, run wires for gps and USB and then install the new head unit. It was really easy. I did end up needing that Decoder you see in the pictures in the post above, but it just clipped in line with everything.

the head unit started right up and took about 5 seconds to boot...it looks REALLY good, and sounds great (Bluetooth quality could be better) but you cant beat the quality of the music played using wifi from the phone.


The Good:

Looks good
fit well
easy install
quick os
packaged well
the light color/brightness match exactly
Sound is great over wifi, radio, cd, dvd
touch screen seems durable and works well
Bluetooth was easy to pair
GPS works well

Bad:

The built in microphone could be much better (sounds muffled - I probably will end up getting an external mic and hiding it behind a vent)
Bluetooth audio quality is not as good as some of the other Bluetooth devices ive used. when streaming BT music its a bit crackly 


There is definitely more I could say, good and bad but those are the main points. I actually last night went and bought a 3G dongle (the device is 3G ready) and the radio antenna booster (http://enfigcarstereo.com/ENFIG_AAA_VWAUD2.html) and will be connecting the microphone, along with those this weekend. 

After research, It looks like youre going to need that antenna adapter anyway. There are 2 antenna in the A4 and any unit you switch to will typically only accept one. This powered adapter will boost the signal and let you connect both antenna.



Here are some pictures:


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Very cool, good link on that antenna adapter, and great pictures, thanks. I have touch-screen envy; my RNS-E screen is so bland.

Where did you end up putting your GPS antenna? I've heard people have had decent performance above the glovebox under the dash.

By the way, if you're looking for just enough data for maps and things, *RedPocket Mobile* has a T-mobile based data plan including 1GB for $10/mo or 500MB for $5, they call it their GSMT Mobile Internet Starter Plan.

Please post back after you've used it a bit and have some more specifics.

Enjoy!


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I actually mounted the GPS in the front left corner at the windshield. It's not glued down or anything but it doesn't move around and is small enough to where it doesn't look too bad. I may move it but so far i have gotten excellent reception. This may sound dumb but when i contacted the support about 3G they said it was 3G ready and just needed an unlocked dongle to start receiving 3G signal...I specifically asked if it needed service and they said no. It sounds wrong to me but for $15 i can get a cheap 3G usb dongle and test it out. I may not even need to pay monthly. I'll let you know later this week after i get everything set up.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> I actually mounted the GPS in the front left corner at the windshield. It's not glued down or anything but it doesn't move around and is small enough to where it doesn't look too bad. I may move it but so far i have gotten excellent reception. This may sound dumb but when i contacted the support about 3G they said it was 3G ready and just needed an unlocked dongle to start receiving 3G signal...I specifically asked if it needed service and they said no. It sounds wrong to me but for $15 i can get a cheap 3G usb dongle and test it out. I may not even need to pay monthly. I'll let you know later this week after i get everything set up.


I don't think there is any such thing as free 3G service; Im pretty sure the dongle is a radio with an ESN/IMEI (electronic serial number) just like a cell phone radio/modem; you still have to subscribe to a plan with a service provider and you'll need to know if the modem/dongle is GSM or CDMA.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

From their support team

"3G dongle support WCDMA....
you can buy from your local,if you buy from us,also be ok,but need via post shipping to USA"

I looked up the dongle and it was just a $50 dongle...nothing special. youre right though..i probably will end up having to get a plan with someone. I wonder if it takes LTE


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I am having a bit of trouble figuring out exactly what WCDMA is...

Could that be 4G? I dont see any carriers that do WCDMA and I know CDMA is not the same thing..what i am seeing is that all 4g LTE is compatible with WCDMA devices but does that mean i can get a 4GLTE Device and it will be compatible with the head unit?


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

Devinm5 said:


> I am having a bit of trouble figuring out exactly what WCDMA is...
> 
> Could that be 4G? I dont see any carriers that do WCDMA and I know CDMA is not the same thing..what i am seeing is that all 4g LTE is compatible with WCDMA devices but does that mean i can get a 4GLTE Device and it will be compatible with the head unit?


WCDMA = UMTS = Universal Mobile Telecommunications System = mobile cellular system for networks based on the GSM standard. 
So basically Verizon (CDMA) versus AT&T (GSM) 

Anyway, looking at pulling the trigger on this. It looks like it come with *most* of the cables and connections required, correct? Also does the software on the HU come with an App Store already installed? 

Any more reviews/daily usage updates?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> I am having a bit of trouble figuring out exactly what WCDMA is...
> 
> Could that be 4G? I don't see any carriers that do WCDMA and I know CDMA is not the same thing..what i am seeing is that all 4g LTE is compatible with WCDMA devices but does that mean i can get a 4GLTE Device and it will be compatible with the head unit?


I think most all CDMA networks these days are “W”-CDMA. From *this wiki*, it says that the W means wideband which is the carrier frequencies for 3G in appose to 2G. Im not exactly sure where 4G/LTE fits into that mix but AFAIK 3G only has an ESN which is embedded in the device where as 4G uses a SIM card which hosts the IMEI/ESN.

I've loosely called it CDMA which is what Verizon (pageplus), US cellular and Sprint use, maybe some other major networks plus any of the MVNO carriers like PagePlus which is a Verizon re-seller (all my friends and family use Pageplus) or Redpocket.

GSM is loosely translated to: ATT, Tmobile, and their re-sellers like Simple mobile, ultramobile, H2O and many others.

Once you get it, it will likely have some sort of an ESN, I’m guessing it will be 3G since they said it is WCDMA and doesn't have a SIM slot, based on the ESN you should be able to figure out what the details are. You might also search around for that same or similar dongle from other sellers who may offer more details, or go to Howardforums and post a help request.

If you want to use the GSMT starter plan, 1gb for $10 at redpocket, you will need a GSM dongle since that is a T-mobile service.

Now with all that said, I found *this thread* that sais "3G GSM data service is called WCDMA". With that in mind, you might be recieving a GSM 3G dongle which would work with that Redpocket plan.



> GSM and CDMA both have 3G, but in different ways:
> - GSM's is called WCDMA (for data) and UMTS (for line-up technology)


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## ebrzez (Mar 24, 2011)

*Audi A4 new head end - 2006 Audi A4 Cab with RNS-E (non-Bose)*

Great to hear from another person that did this. A quick note...

Replaced my RNS-E unit about the same time bought it directly from mfg, about 1/2 or so taking your time. Limited instructions.

http://www.seicane.com/search/Audi+a4?car_fit_years=2006&car_make_audi=a4

I brought this unit, $485

Android 4.4.4 1024*600 Multi-touch Capacitive Screen 2002-2008 Audi A4 S4 RS4 Radio Upgrade with DVD GPS Car A/V System 3G WiFi Blutooth Mirror Link OBD2 AUX HD 1080P Video Reverse Camera MP3 MP4 Canbus

Order delayed a bit, but arrived direct from China in a few days via DHL

Interesting to have a computer in dash instead of the limited factory radio/gps.
It uses my iPhone as a hot spot via WiFi to run internal Android programs

Still trying to get the mirroring software setup iPhone to dash unit to work, getting unauthorized warning. Bought a copy via Google play on the radio, still having issue. I hope get this worked out soon. 
Neede to order new antenna adapter fr the dual connect for the AM/FM radio, should have this a a few days.

It works 

Ed


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Hi Ed,

Did you happen to have BOSE as well? If you did have Bose I am curious to know what the sound quality is with the new android head unit versus the RNS-E. 

I too have an RNSE, it is in perfect condition with 2015 maps and firmware and I have an iPhone adapter connected to the external CD changer port. All in all my R SE sounds good and functions fine including audio in charging of my iPhone although it really does seem so limited without any text from my iPhone displaying and no touchscreen. 

I am wondering if you were able to use an adapter to utilize the original car's GPS antenna?

Are you fully satisfied with the android versus the original RNSE? Are there any advantages of the original RNSE that you miss?


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## Teddy Hayward (Dec 8, 2013)

Hey guys, I have a '05 a4 1.8t stock symphony hu non Bose. I've been checking out these android units and I like them a lot. I want something oem looking but with more features. The main feature I want is the obd2 functions. I like the Witson and seicane ones and I see that the seicane one supports obd2, but does the Witson? Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Teddy Hayward said:


> Hey guys, I have a '05 a4 1.8t stock symphony hu non Bose. I've been checking out these android units and I like them a lot. I want something oem looking but with more features. The main feature I want is the obd2 functions. I like the Witson and seicane ones and I see that the seicane one supports obd2, but does the Witson? Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't think anyone in this thread has bought the Witson yet although I'm pretty sure that any of these android units with at least 4.2 OS will support OBD. You'll need an OBD wireless adapter which runs about $15 on eBay or Amazon and then you pick an app from the google play store, it seems Torque is the most popular although there are others, some are free while some are paid Apps with more features. 

You also want to ensure when you buy the head unit that they include the CAN decoder box, it looks like some come with it included while others it is an add on for a few extra dollars.


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## ebrzez (Mar 24, 2011)

markcm said:


> Hi Ed,
> 
> Did you happen to have BOSE as well? If you did have Bose I am curious to know what the sound quality is with the new android head unit versus the RNS-E.
> 
> ...



Mark, good morning,

No I didn't have the BOSE sound system option.
I also originally had the iPhone adapter on the CD changer port, I was never satisfied with the sound quality. 

Here's the exact radio I have,
http://www.seicane.com/android-4-4-...80p-video-reverse-camera-mp3-mp4-canbus-k7684

I am using Seicane's external GPS antenna right now, must be a way to use the OEM GPS antenna in the car.
As I mentioned the AM/FM doesn't work right now using the original adapter Secaine suppled, I just rec'd the Enfig dual antenna adapter I ordered.
http://enfigcarstereo.com/ENFIG_AAA_VWAUD5.html

I still have the backup camera to install and front camera if I want.
I really like the OBDII interface and ability to customize graphic screen for the cars engine and onboard computers. Wish my VAG Ross-Tech had an app for Android I could download and use. That handheld unit helped me troubleshoot and fix an HVAC issue in the car that the Audi dealer never could.

Overall VERY satisfied. It's great having a real computer in the dash that you can customize any way you like, i.e. various apps, GPS programs, Weather, Pandora, etc.

The Waxrain AirPin Pro app was one of the options with the original radio order I made. Take a look at it here,
http://www.waxrain.com

This lets you mirror your iPhone in the android radio head end. It runs everything on my iPhone on the radio, even recognize landscape or portrait orientation of the phone!

Sound is better than original RNS-E radio, and I was tired of the Audi GPS system and lack of touch screen in 2015...

Good luck with your install, some tech glitches and eases dealing with China tech support, but overall a happy customer here.

Ed


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Android powered DVD Navigation unit with RNS-E style for Audi A4*

I pulled the trigger last night and bought one. I've been struggling, trying to like my original RNS-E navigation unit; but I just don't like anything about it. I don't understand why the RNSE is so darn expensive in the used market. I had just updated the maps to 2015 and the firmware, the update made it so every time you either turn the unit on or use the mute, the volume auto sets its self way too high, it was really pissing me off how it would blast you every time. I researched and there are no settings, its controlled by the RNSE software.

I chose a unit with design just like the RNS-E, with knobs only on the right side from the same vendor devinM5 used; Bob Low at ShenZhen Burgeon at Aliexpress.com although I live in Washington state which is currently in a pissing match over taxes with Alibaba so I had to purchase from their DHgate.com site where they go by seller name: *Dlkj0099*. 

Note that they did not have this unit with the RNS-E style listed, I specifically requested it, they had me purchase the unit which looks identical to the one devinM5 bought and put the details in the order notes along with an image. Here is the* link to their DHgate unit*. Bob Low was very fast to communicate and helpful confirming all the features and functions I requested. Here is a picture of the RNS-E style I chose with Quad Core processor:


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

Just got an email back from the seller of http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/For-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad/136738_32330878212.html?aff_platform=aaf&sk=bm2aeAra%3AIAaAMNVNr&cpt=1431550188606&af=3323800&cn=002&cv=11032041&dp=i9n80hkone0004ir008sc&dl_target_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fstore%2Fproduct%2FFor-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad%2F136738_32330878212.html&PID=3323800&URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fstore%2Fproduct%2FFor-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad%2F136738_32330878212.html&aff_trace_key=23477589448648379

And he said that YES, this device supports BOSE. Hmmmmmm.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

nucciOMG said:


> Just got an email back from the seller of http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/For-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad/136738_32330878212.html?aff_platform=aaf&sk=bm2aeAra%3AIAaAMNVNr&cpt=1431550188606&af=3323800&cn=002&cv=11032041&dp=i9n80hkone0004ir008sc&dl_target_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fstore%2Fproduct%2FFor-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad%2F136738_32330878212.html&PID=3323800&URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fstore%2Fproduct%2FFor-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad%2F136738_32330878212.html&aff_trace_key=23477589448648379
> 
> And he said that YES, this device supports BOSE. Hmmmmmm.


5/20/2015: I'm going to revise my comment on "BOSE Support" After speaking to multiple resources on this matter including Christian from Enfig, and some personal experiences I'm still going to say that pretty much all aftermarket Head Units are either non-compatible or at best, partially compatible in their stock condition. OEM BOSE installations don't follow industry standard voltages or impedance. It seems that a BOSE system is a hybrid "Low-Level", the head unit sends a Low level signal to the BOSE amplifier(s). While most systems standardize on Low Level signals in the range of 1-4 volts, OEM BOSE installations tend to be closer to 10 volts (so I'm told). The most common solution for integrating an Aftermarket Head Unit with a OEM BOSE amp/speaker system is to use the amplified speaker outputs from the head unit, run them through a "Line Level Converter" or "Hi Lo" converter to achieve a Low level signal. The converter either needs to be specifically designed for BOSE so that the output levels are correct, or it needs to have adjustable potentiometers (which most have) allowing you to select your level of attenuation from the speaker leads to the BOSE amp input so you have correct sound levels without distortion. 

Think of it this way, the BOSE amplifier needs a signal level somewhere lower than Standard speaker voltage yet higher than traditional Low-level (RCA) voltage, amplifying the Low level would likely cause distortion so the best route is to use the speaker level and attenuate (reduce) it partially to a level suitable for the BOSE.

From my understanding after talking with several different suppliers of these Chinese Android HU's, their method of "works with BOSE" is to patch the RCA outs form the head unit (which are standard level, somewhere between 1-4 volts) to the harness that goes to the BOSE. While this "works" and you get some signal it will most likely be lower volume than desired.

Again, the most common solution to this is to use a "Hi Lo" Line level converter between the HU speaker out and the BOSE amp IN. None of these units currently offer the correct low level signal for BOSE or a HiLo adapter so in summary, some of these NAV units "kind of" support BOSE, while others do not have the RCA connectors in the harness to patch the RCA out to the car's harness so they don't have any support. None of that matters if you are going to do it right you get a Hi Lo converter and wire it in. So just like any other aftermarket head unit, any of these Chinese android can be adapted into an Audi with or without BOSE, providing you use a Line Level adapter as needed; sometimes also called LOC for Line Out Converter.

This is all "to the best of my understanding", I offer no guarantees but hopefully it is useful information.

You can see the Chinese version of "works with BOSE" here in devinM5's image, the RCA coming out of the factory mating connector(from the BOSE amp) and connecting with the RCA outputs from the headunit.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Hey, Just letting you guys know im still here, its just been busy and I have a lot to update you guys on. I've learned quite a lot in the past few days (some good some bad but all informative) about the problems you will run into when installing ANY aftermarket radio in your Audi...

Ill try to have a post about everything this evening. One really important thing i want to go ahead and post now is about low audio. 

In your Audi, the stock radio head unit has a power amplifier built in for the speakers. I am finding that the rear audio plays half as loud as my front due to this. on BOSE systems, this will occur for ALL the speakers. it technically works..just not as loud. While browsing the Enfig website i came across some solutions. Enfig has LOTS of solutions for common problems.

i ordered the antenna booster from them and am thinking of ordering *THIS* to fix one of the problems I came across.

I'll post pictures and more information later tonight and try to summarize everything. It's definitely a lot of work and confusing trying to set everything up the first time but it has been pretty worth it so far.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Good find on the enfig Line Level adapters, they look like a well engineered solution for Audi Line Level adaption which is a long running plague when it comes to aftermarket audio in Audi's. I think there are multiple options out there as well (*see examples here*), some advertise extra features like CAN pass through for functions like steering wheel control although these android units mostly come with CAN decoders so I wonder how necessary that is. 

I've used a line level adapter before from PIE, model HRC-UNI (which I think might be discontinued) when I put a SONY head unit in our 1999 Audi A6 with BOSE. It worked great, sounded fantastic. Here is the description of why it was needed from PIE:



> Universal head unit replacement converter Unlike aftermarket line level components, Oem factory differential systems do not reference to 12-VDC chassis ground.* they float the system negative ground approximately 6 VDC above chassis ground* difference between line level and differential components provide line level matching, and eliminate. Noise, popping and distortion of the audio signal. Electronically matches aftermarket components to:
> 
> Delco-Bose, Oem Bose (Acura/Honda, Nissan/Infinity, Gm, Corvette, Mazda, etc.) Ford Premium/Jbl, Chrysler infinity, Bmw, Mercedes Benz, Porsche ,Volkswagen, Mitsubishi, Lexus, Range Rover, and Jaguar


I’m curious, did you try any of the RCA connections, similar to the image I posted above in post #41 with the RCA circled in yellow? From what I understand, your car in factory state may have the front speakers powered by the head unit and the rear’s powered through a factory external amp, is that correct? If so, I’m curious if you tired connecting the RCA output from the head unit to the RCA “input” wires in the mating harness or as all the suppliers seem to call it the “power” harness, while leaving the front speakers wired to the powered speaker outputs of the head unit?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I did in fact use the RCA connections for the rear speakers and they do work but just sound quiet...to compensate for now I just moved the balance/fade adjustment towards the rear. I believe the rear speakers are powered by a factory amp but from my understanding, the amp is in the head unit (which is why they all get quiet when you switch units). I'm going to buy a powered adapter to help boost power and amplify the back speakers again and fix the issue. I'll post pictures of the setup tonight. The CAN adapter does work but ill tell you the problems I am having with it in my next post later tonight.

Here is a list of all the adapters/connectors and signal boosters you might need...keep it handy when you get your head unit.. http://enfigcarstereo.com/audi_radio_installation.html

Ed, How is the bluetooth in the unit you got? does it sound good when playing music over it?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Alright...heres what you all have been waiting for!

SOOOOOO, this is an update post after having the head unit installed for a few days now, im realizing a few things

1) the WiFi Mirroring option is AWESOME. 
2) I kinda want 3G in the car now so i can use mirroring and pandora without losing internet capability on my phone
3) Why audi...why did you make the antennas so so hard to get good reception with any head unit but your own?
4) why audi...did you make the sound system a 4 channel system that needs an amplifier in line...

but anyway, here it goes. 

I'm still on the fence about everything. Some days i really love the head unit, other days i feel defeated and want to return it. It's a love hate thing. Bob Lowe has been a big help in troubleshooting and supporting all my questions and problems as ive been going through this process although i dont quite think he really knows everything about the Audi's special needs (such as amplifier for rear speakers/sub, and the radio antennas)

My first problem was that the unit had really bad radio reception...like...really bad, i mean, i got 1 channel. I could make one of those cardboard rock radios that gets more channels than that. I ended up buying the Enfig adapter (http://enfigcarstereo.com/ENFIG_AAA_VWAUD2.html) that is supposed to let you use both antennas and will power the antenna amplifiers. the down side is that i cant seem to find any instructions specific to this wiring harness to get the thing to work so I have no idea if it is working correctly or not. It's not making any noise when on but i do get almost every radio station available now (but the signal fades drastically when moving at highway speeds). 

next..the bluetooth. I dont even use bluetooth with this unit because the bluetooth pretty much sucks. It is crackly and seems like the signal is just weak all around when playing music. this is a shame because i really love bluetooth..but that can be replaced by air play over wifi with the head unit. 

so I had slight problems with the bluetooth, and major problems with the radio (still working that out) moving on to the reverse...

this may not seem like a huge deal to anyone but it bugs the hell out of me. When go into reverse, the head unit goes into "back up camera" mode...I dont have a camera hooked up and there is no way to disable this in the actual software. I have been working with support and bob lowe to figure this out but last I heard he told me to cut the PINK wire that goes into the CAN adapter..well i did and it didnt work. now i have 2 problems. I have cut a wire that i dont know what it was supposed to do as well as still have a problem backing up and turning on the non existent camera. 



















I feel that If i were to do the install over again, I would purchase the same head unit (or a similar one..maybe with better bluetooth) but I would probably spend the extra 150 and get all the wiring harnesses and amplifiers from enfig first (including radio amplifier, OEM gps antenna adapter, HI-LO control unit, and Smart harness) which can be found *HERE*.

I feel like this would make things go a lot smoother and streamline the process because while the head unit does in fact work, in order to make it really sound good and get maximum potential out of it (or any aftermarket one for that matter) you are going to need amplifiers and adapters. 

The CAN adapter, and harness that came with the unit did fit, and it effectively sent signal over to my speakers via HIlevel input and RCA input (for rear) but the rear again needs amplified. To fix this problem for now, I just used the balance/fader to even out the tone so it doesnt sound like the music is coming from only the front speakers 




















I have also been using the OBDII connection which has been pretty neat and seems to work well. The response time is fairly quick and I get good data.























Here are a few photos of the wiring ( i know its a mess but give me a break..ive taken the radio out and put it in about 15 times now trying to get everything straightened out. I tried to make it so you guys could see how everything is hooked up)


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## caudex (Oct 7, 2002)

So do any of these have a iPod connection?

UPDATE:

I got a response back from the seller of the quad core version. He says that the stereo can connect to your iPhone, but not iPod, using AirPin, but this method will not show artist or track info. This really bums me out, I was really excited about this, and was almost ready to make the purchase.

I know there are several different versions of this unit on the market, does anybody know off hand of one that will connect to and control an iPod/iPhone?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Chinese DVD Navigation unit for Audi - iPod control*



caudex said:


> So do any of these have a iPod connection?


I don't believe any of the Android based units have iPod/iPhone control via the OS when cable connected to an iPhone/iPod . These DVD Navication units are also made with Microsoft Win Mobile OS, those units are about $100 LESS expensive and typically do have a direct iPod connection with direct iPod/iPhone controls on the screen.

These Android based units have bluetooth which should connected to any music device with bluetooth. devinM5 reported having sound issues with the bluetooth although Bob Low suggested that may have been wifi interference which could make sense if both were active since they are both 2.4ghz.

There is also the Mirror Link feature which another member reported as working really well. This uses wifi to display your smart phone's display on the screen. I believe Android phones have a two way connection meaning you have control of the phone through the head unit; I don't know if the iPhone/iPods have this two way control using mirror LINK, maybe one of the others who have used it can chime in here.

I've ordered the one shown in post #39 from Bob Low at ShenZhen Burgeon Technology and should be receiving it any day as well.


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## caudex (Oct 7, 2002)

Thanks Mark,

Although, I've never had any android device, I'm definitely interested in the Android version rather than the windows version because of the options available for customization. But still, it would be really nice if it could connect and control an iPod/iPhone, the way most modern stereos do.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

caudex said:


> Thanks Mark,
> 
> Although, I've never had any android device, I'm definitely interested in the Android version rather than the windows version because of the options available for customization. But still, it would be really nice if it could connect and control an iPod/iPhone, the way most modern stereos do.


I agree although I'm pretty sure Android just doesn't do iPhone direct connection at all since they are 100% direct competition. Keep in mind these are essentially Android tablets, if you can find an iPod app on the Google Play store, you could install it.

I was really concerned with this at first too but ultimately what I want this HU for is Slacker radio which I typically play via my iphone. With this HU I plan to just load slacker right on the unit and leave my phone in my pocket (all the better to avoid unsafe phone use while driving...) and I like the no connections needed-all in one of just getting in my car, turning it on and slacker starting up on the HU.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Android Navigation DVD Head Unit in Audi A4 B7 with BOSE - review*

UPDATED 5/31/2015:

I’ve received and installed my Android Navigation unit; I purchased from Bob Low of Burgeon Electronics (Links in previous posts above) although I purchased from their DHgate.com shop because Alibaba will not ship to Washington State. I bought the unit with RNS-E face plate style with quad-core processor and Android 4.4.4, the total was $440 shipped. Shipping only took about 4 days, it was very well packed. Bob Low was very responsive and quick

Here are the High Level comments which I can explain in more detail later with images:

1.	*I am pleased *with this Android based Chinese Navigation unit, so far I like it better than the OEM RNS-E which I replaced. The display resolution and touch response is great. 

2.	The unit had *very sharp edges* on the bottom sides of the chrome pieces used for retaining it, I got cut pretty good by this Ginsu feature. I’ll show a picture with red tape applied and recommend you do the same.

3.	My 2005.5 *Audi A4 B7 has BOSE*, I had to *use a HI/LO Line level converter AND ground loop isolators*. I would say when properly installed with these converters/filters that sound is on – par with the RNS-E, maybe not quite as good but close enough I can’t really tell. With the correct converters/filters, there is no hum/buzz/noise at all and the volume levels are correct. *Without the converters/filters when I just had the RCA connector hooked together as suggested by the supplier the volume was a bit low and there was buzz* at all times which got really bad when the HID headlights were on (see more details on all this below). Bob Low is aware of this and may work something out in the future. Christian from Enfig said he’s considering making a plug and play harness for these as well since they are getting quite popular. 3b

3b. I've experimented some and found the PAC SNI-35 to be a very low cost and 100% effective HI/LO converter with built in Ground Loop Isolation. These were very easy to install, I simply cut the speaker output wires from the head unit, connected them to the SNI-35 input and then the RCA outputs of the SNI-35 to the RCA of the supplied connector which mates to the vehicle harness (pictures below). I set the Gain to about 25%, there is absolutely no more noise and the signal level is just right. These were $10 each at amazon.com, here's the* link PAC SNI-35*

4.	The* Quad core* unit I received is pretty snappy and smooth. It takes about 10-15 seconds for a full boot up. The unit does fully power down when the key is switched off and cannot be turned on without the Key.

5.	Mine came with RED button back-light that matches the Audi well, there are no other color options. The LED levels do adjust automatically when the car lights come on.

6.	*Steering wheel controls work great* although I can’t seem to program them to be different than how they came even though there is a utility for it. I've found that the Track skip functions on steering wheel only work for the native player, they do not work for apps like slacker. Worse yet, if you hit the track button while listening to a music app it will start the native player and they will both play at the same time. I've learned not to hit the steering wheel track advance but it would be nice if it was more general rather than tied to the native music player.

7.	*CAN works as it should*. Since I don’t have a backup camera, anytime I put the car in reverse the unit was interrupted and showed “device not found” error. This was easily remedied by pulling the orange with black stripe wire (pin 11) which is the signal from the CAN box to the HU telling it the car is in reverse.

8.	I *don’t have back up camera* so I removed the orange/black wire from pin 11 which *resolved the “not detected” issue*

9.	*The included iGO map software is REALLY good*, I like everything about it. Very good display, fast, intuitive and feature rich, probably the best I've seen. I suspect it is not legitimate and may be a problem if you want to buy upgrades or updates. The map files are good although they are 2013. I'll follow up with the supplier on this one.

10.	I bought a $10 Bluetooth OBD2 dongle from eBay which auto-pairs with the device and works flawless with the application Torque that came installed. I am blown away by the capabilities, I can read any of the sensor data on the car, read/clear codes, log data, so much more and in a very cool looking interface

11.	It came with a trial version of* AirPin Pro Mirror software*, although it needs a license key (a few bucks) it does mirror my iPhone 5s screen and sound on the unit very well in both portrait and landscape. I did find the sound to break up sometimes when mirroring audio like Slacker Radio but that’s fine because I installed slacker in the unit its self. Using an iPhone to Mirror, it is just one-way from the iPhone to the HU, there are not controls from the HU that will be sent back to the iPhone. If you have an Android phone, there will be some basic controls available. Although Mirror is kind of cool, it seems redundant and cumbersome since this HU will do everything. At most, I’d only expect to use my phone for tethering a data connection or BT for the Phone functions, your expectations here may vary.

12.	All the *wireless features *work well including Bluetooth, WiFi, tethering, auto connection/pairing. Bluetooth music streaming works but not that great, it may be a bit better if I turn the wifi off and sometimes it seems clearer than others. It is usable but has much to be desired, I've used $15 bluetooth iPod adapters that work much better.

13.	*Build quality looks pretty good*, the face, buttons and knob all feel sturdy. The plastic finish is close but could be a little better to be perfect. The body had alignment guides which mated with the car well. The security/retaining clips are much flimsier than the OEM and I’m pretty sure thy came from the Ginsu knife factory since they were razor sharp on the bottom (cut my finger pretty good). I’ll post a picture below showing where to put tape to protect yourself

14.	I used the provided single *antenna adapter* which gave me half decent radio reception, I’ve ordered a dual Fakra to ISO adapter. This doesn’t really matter to me since I don’t listen to the radio. I purchased a sma to fakra adapter for the GPS so I can connect it to the shark fin antenna on the car, it was about $5 on ebay and works great. I was using the supplied antenna just stuffed behind the radio and that actually even worked pretty good.

15.	I really want this to be an integrated solution, without needing to connect my phone or iPod to it so I am really considering buying a small *data plan* to keep the iGO and/or Google Map traffic data LIVE. Red Pocket mobile offers a $5/mo 500mb or $10/mo for 1GB of 4G T-mobile data plan. USB/Cellular modem dongles are available for around $15, if I go that route I’ll post more later. For now, tethering worked well this morning although I don’t like having to remember to turn tethering on/off in my phone to avoid battery or data drain when not necessary.

16. There are no iPod/iPhone controls via USB or cable. You can charge your iPhone with the USB port and my get an "unsupported device" warning on your iPhone. If you want to control your iPhone, you'll need to use Bluetooth.

17. I don't like* the way the power works* on this unit. I haven't found any way to force a full power cycle other than removing the key from the ignition for 10 seconds or more, or using a pen to push the reset button. Additionally and more importantly, I don't like how the unit boots down, I have a good battery in my car, I'd prefer to have it go into standby for a period of time so that when I run into 7-eleven for a moment and come back, the unit doesn't have to fully boot up again and since I use app's like slacker, I have to reload the app and select play again rather than it just resuming. I'll ask the manufacturer if they can include this in future updates. I found some auto start apps and tried *Autostart and https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.atasoglou.autostartandstayStaY!*, this seemed to do the job, it would start slacker back up after a power cycle but slacker locked up. I'm not sure if it's because I'm having problems with slacker or if the autostart caused the problem so I uninstalled the auto start for now.

18. Slacker radio will not cache more than one offline station. I've tried every option under the sun and it just wont do it. My patch was to find a old version of slacker, I think it's 2.8 or so, this will refresh all my offline stations but the app isn't quite as stable and tends to misbehave sometimes. Other apps like Amazon Prime music and Spotify both work but neither are as good as slacker when it comes to creating stations and offline saving. I'll keep working on this to see if I can get it to run smoother.

19. My unit does not have a physical button to show the app switcher, I have to go to the home screen and then there is a tiny little icon on the top which is kind of hard to click precisely. To resolve this I found and installed *Switchr - App Switcher* which 100% takes care of this concern. Switchr allows several different methods of swiping from an edge to pull out an app switcher, it is very good.

I will update this with more description and images later, here are some images for starters, and note that the factory crappy screen protector is still on, the screen should appear better once I get a real screen protector on:























































Here you can see how I wired in the PAC SNI-35:









Here you can see the gain settings I used:









Here is the GPS adapter to use the Fakra connector to the original Shark fin antenna


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## caudex (Oct 7, 2002)

Awesome, man! Thanks for the detailed review!


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I just posted some updates to my review (post #50), see the post above.

Updates include:


My unit fully powers down when key removed - not desirable
Issues with Slacker Radio App - wont cache more than one offline station
Steering Wheel control for Track skip tied to native app - wont control 3rd party apps like Slacker radio
No dedicated app switcher button - resolved with switchr app
Updated details on PAC SNI-35 Hi/Lo converter with integrated Ground loop Isolator, with pictures. Very good, low cost solution.
Adapter for Shark Fin GPS Fakra connector - seems to be working
Although map files are good, they are 2013 - not sure if this is a legit install or not.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

hey Markcm, 

Did you use any kind of amplifier to fix the low audio problem? i see you have the PAC SNI but im not quite sure what that is. I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to fix the low audio/no factory sub problem im running into after installing mine. Did you have to cut into your factory harness?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> hey Markcm,
> 
> Did you use any kind of amplifier to fix the low audio problem? i see you have the PAC SNI but im not quite sure what that is. I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to fix the low audio/no factory sub problem im running into after installing mine. Did you have to cut into your factory harness?


NO amplifiers.

The PAC SNI-35 should be the solution for your lower sound levels of your amplified speakers as well. I don’t believe you will cut into your factory harness although I’m not 100% sure that the harness adapters we received are exactly the same but it looks like they are. This assumes the adapter harness provided is wired correctly and with the correct provisions for your car's configuration. Since the front speakers are working and powered from the Head unit, that is a good sign for starters.

First off and generally speaking line level signals are not typically amplified out of a head unit between an “amplifier” feeding your speaker(s). 

Please confirm but I assume you are using the RCA output from the head unit and connecting that to the RCA “input” of the connector supplied with the HU which mates with the car’s harness for your rear speakers? Assuming that is the case, the RCA “low level” signal is too low for the amplifier because Audi uses a none standard signal which is higher than typical “low level” signals yet much lower than “high level” speaker outputs. Please confirm if you are using the RCA outputs from your head unit or the Speaker “high level” wires for the rear amplified speaker which has too low of volume.

Here is how the PAC SNI-35 Line Level converter works, the SNI-35 is a signal attenuator (it reduces the level of whatever is fed into it) and it also has ground loop isolation which eliminates the hum/buzz that is so common on Audi systems. The SNI-35 (or any other line level converter) is connected to the “high Level” speaker output wires from the head unit, just the wires for the rear channels in your case as the Bose uses external amplifiers for all the speakers so I did this on front and rear. You would have to cut into the wires in the adapter harness that was provided with the Head unit which you can see I did in my picture. The RCA output of the SNI is connected to the RCA leads coming from the adapter that mates with the car’s original connector.

So, if you look at your previous picture showing the RCA from the head unit connected to the RCA of the connector that mates to the car’s harness (see your image below with Yellow highlighted RCA), you would disconnect the Rear L/R RCA’s from the Head Unit side, find the and cut the Rear speaker output wires, connect them to the SNI-35 then connect the RCA from the vehicle side to the SNI-35. You should be able to see this by comparing my photo with the SNI-35 to your photo of your head unit on the table before installing where you have the RCA’s patched together. 










Does that help?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

That helps a lot actually. Our harnesses look to be the same, and I am currently using the low level RCA for the rear speakers. So you're saying the signal is actually too low for the amplifier to pick up? I'm still fuzzy on how the PAC SNI35 because you said it reduces the signal of whatever is fed into it. Would the signal not need amplified?

Either way, If you said it works, ill go ahead and get one and just call it finished.

BTW. I saw your review were you mentioned getting 3G/4G. I went ahead and did that and its been great so far. Red Pocked isnt the absolute best carrier but they definitely get the job done. Streaming music on the head unit without having to worry about using my phone is pretty much amazing. My favorite thing is google maps though. It works pretty seamlessly. I actually got 2 usb extension adapters so I could feed them into my glove box, That is where I'm keeping the 3G dongle and the second USB. This way I can plug in external usb drives like a portable hard drive or thumb drive and play music and movies off of that (again, all stored in the glove box). Just download VLC media player so you can play all media file types (android limits to MP4 i believe)


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

while we have this thread going, I do have another question that i was wondering about. Since I'm pretty new to the Audi world here, I noticed i have a shark fin antenna on the roof of my car, but i have 2 radio antennas and my car did not come stock with GPS...so...Any ideas on what the antenna on the top of my car does? Everything i have read says the radio antennas are in the windows on the 2005 model so I am at a loss. I just know i had to get the antenna amplifier to connect the 2 antennas for my radio to work.


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

It's called a "diversity" system with an amplified antenna (typically rear window) and a passive antenna (sharkfin). The main design is for the factory radio to auto switch between which antenna has the best signal reception percentage.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Regarding *your rear speakers*, I think you're missing one major concept. You are currently using the head unit RCA output to feed the rear speakers and yes, that signal is too low (you've got that part). The solution is to no-longer use the RCA output from the head unit for your rear speakers, you will now locate the Hi-level rear speaker wires which are either the purple and green pairs, or the white/grey pairs, I can't remember which are front vs. rear off the top of my head. Once you identify which are the rear, cut them and wire them from the Head Unit side to the SNI-35, set the pots on the SNI to about 25% percent as shown in my picture and connect the SNI-35 RCA outputs to the RCA on the vehicle side adapter harness that you are using now with the HU RCA outputs. Now with your speakers balanced in the HU settings, you should just barely detect the rear speakers but mostly hear the fronts (that's a bit of preference), if you want more or less rear speaker, adjust the pots counter clockwise for less or clockwise for more.

*The shark fin *contains the GPS antenna, maybe satellite or secondary radio too but I'm pretty sure the GPS is in the fin. I've heard that the connector for cars without NAV may be all the way back at the sharkfin behind the headliner and you may need to run an extension to your dash if you want to use it, you can find Fakra extension cables on amazon/ebay/Enfig... Start by diging around behind your head unit to see if you can find a loose blue square connector as shown in my picture with the adapter cable.

*Cellular,* I've been using an extra iphone with a RedPocket GSMT (T-mobile) 512mb @$5/mo plan, I agree, it is awesome to have cellular directly connected and also agree, T-mobile is a pretty weak network but it does the job for the most part and at $5 I'm really happy. I love the iGO maps these came with but also like to use Google maps and/or Waze for traffic and police sighting updates. For music I have Slacker radio, Amazon music, and Spotify on my unit so I've just cached music for offline play but cellular still provides additional song title and band information yet doesn't eat up all the data. Slacker is by far the best for caching, spotify caches but its not done well, amazon does too but the stations are hard to configure to your liking and limited so you end up hearing the station loop in about 1.5 hours on average. I had a problem with the newest slacker version, it would only cache one offline station and then tell me to try again later so I found an archived copy of an older version, something like v2.8 and it works great.

So tell me what dongle you got for the cellular and are you using the GSMT or GSMA (T-moble or ATT)? From what I've read, GSMT needs 1700/2100mhz bands and most the dongles dont offer the 1700 band, and most sellers cant confirm if the dongle will work with T-mobile or Android so I haven't bought a dongle yet. I did just ordered a T-mobile ZTE MF61 4G Mobile HotSpot for $15 from ebay which I believe is a branded Huawei UMG587, this will be powered by the HU USB but connect via wifi which is nice for others in the car to tap into the wifi too but I'd rather it just be integrated and connect over the USB. Does your dongle connect over the USB or do you use it as a WiFi hot spot as well?


On a side note I am working on a time delay circuit to keep the unit powered on for a set amount of time after removing the key so that if I'm just filling up with gas or running int to a store for a few minutes the unit will not boot down. I chose the* ELK-960 timer* and I'll update once I've received it and tried to set it up. Bueler makes a *time delay relay* that looks like it would work to but it is limited to 3 minutes; I suspect you could change the potentiometer to extened that but I'm going to start with the ELK-960 because its so configurable.

I've also sent a few questions to Bob Low recently, it's gotten a bit quiet, no response from my last two questions. I sent him all the info on the issue with Audi amplifiers and how to resolve, he seemed apprecieative but then no more replies.

Regarding iGO maps, these come with a non-legit version, they say the will provide map updates free at some point or you can "buy them" from iGo.

My *Bluetooth audio streaming sucks* too (very low fidelity) which is one of the issues Bob has not replied about. That's a bummer since bluetooth is pretty basic these days and even cheap adapters seen to stream very clear audio, not the case with my HU. And the microphone in my HU is unusable so I'm considering getting an aftermarket mic.

Here's a re-post of the GPS Fakra connector (in blue)


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

about iGO -> i contacted customer support and they said they cant provide me with a download of the updated maps or purchased version because they do not deal with non OEM systems. You need to update the maps through the manufacturer of the HU itself (I though this was a load of BS but whatever..if you hear anything about it let me know). It would be nice to update the iGO maps and to maybe get the English symbols (still has Chinese symbols for gas station and convenient stores and stuff)

The time delay circuit idea is brilliant! that would be great if you could get that to work. It is pretty annoying to have everything load back up when you just turned the car off for a split second. 

Finally..the bluetooth...yes the bluetooth. I dont know why it is such poor quality. It crackles when loud or if there is any treble, and please keep me updated on the external microphone you get, I ordered *This microphone* and people still say it doesn't sound ANY better...I'm wondering if the external mic. port is even worth anything. 

Here is the *wireless dongle* I bought and it has been working great so far. I might try and upgrade one of these days to a 4G one and just experiment to see if it will work since the data plan is capable of sending 4g speeds...I connected the USB dongle to these* usb extension cables * so I could store it all in the glove box and have easy access to everything without having to take the head unit out. 

Please keep adding updates if you find anything about the bluetooth or microphone out. I've also been waiting on Bob to get back to me about this and so far nothing.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> about iGO -> i contacted customer support and they said they cant provide me with a download of the updated maps or purchased version because they do not deal with non OEM systems. You need to update the maps through the manufacturer of the HU itself (I though this was a load of BS but whatever..if you hear anything about it let me know). It would be nice to update the iGO maps and to maybe get the English symbols (still has Chinese symbols for gas station and convenient stores and stuff)
> 
> The time delay circuit idea is brilliant! that would be great if you could get that to work. It is pretty annoying to have everything load back up when you just turned the car off for a split second.
> 
> ...


The iGO maps on these units are cracked, that's why they were free and iGO can't/wont support us. I'm pretty sure the map files can be found on the internet and just loaded to the unit in the file browser, there are some sites for this sort of thing like gps underground. Bob told me once they have map update files, he will share them at no cost. Either way, the files I have are from mid 2013 and I find them to be pretty darn accurate; I honestly love the iGO maps and they pull traffic when connected to data as well.

On a semi related note, he said once we start seeing newer OS like Android 5 start to show up that he will provide an update file at no cost.

My bluetooth is exactly the same, crackles at higher volumes and the treble is terribly over compressed sounding. It is tolerable at low volume, but anything higher sounds exceptionally ****ty.

Interesting on the USB Dongle, everything I've found (here's an example *thread at T-Mobile forums*) says that T-mobile requires AWS band which is 1700 and 2100 bands yet the dongle you are using, and most dongles, dont list the 1700 band. Which plan are you using, did you get the RedPocket GSMT (tmobile) 1GB? I started with the 500mb for $5 GSMT plan. And is there any set up required for the dongle either using your PC to configure the dongle, or on the head unit? Or did you just plug it in and the unit received internet over the USB?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

markcm said:


> Interesting on the USB Dongle, everything I've found (here's an example *thread at T-Mobile forums*) says that T-mobile requires AWS band which is 1700 and 2100 bands yet the dongle you are using, and most dongles, dont list the 1700 band. Which plan are you using, did you get the RedPocket GSMT (tmobile) 1GB? I started with the 500mb for $5 GSMT plan. And is there any set up required for the dongle either using your PC to configure the dongle, or on the head unit? Or did you just plug it in and the unit received internet over the USB?



they automatically started it out on the 500MB plan for $5.00 and it was plug and play...absolutely no setup. Just got the SIM and put it into the usb and plugged it in...works like a charm.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Low cost cellular data plan for Android Navigation unit in Audi*

I ordered Two different Cellular modems to try with my Redpocket Cellular data plan (GSMT $5 for 500mb per month).

First is a T-Mobile *ZTE MF61 Internet WiFi Mobile Hotspot 4G* which I got brand new on ebay for $15. This looks like a old flip-phone, its compact and has a battery and will charge off the USB from the Nav unit although it does not connect directly to the unit via USB, it creates a WiFi network that the head unit or any device can connect to. It was almost plug and play, you can use it out of the box but I logged into it using a web browser and set the SSID and password to something I could remember. This device is slick because you can take it with your and anyone with the password can use it (like my kids if they are in the car).

Second, I ordered a T-MOBILE *Rocket ZTE MF591 4G USB Mobile Broadband Modem*s Unlocked for MVNOs; this is a thumb drive style like devin got. I paid $10 on ebay as well. This one hasn't arrived yet so I'm not sure if it will plug and play like the one devin bought. I will update when it arrives next week.

As devin mentioned, having full time data connection really steps it up a notch, its very cool.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Red Pocket just discontinued T-mobile plans*

Crap! Redpocket just cut T-mobile from their line up. Read about it *here*

Their data-only plans were half of anyone else, now they are advising to use the ATT but that starts at $25. You'd be better off using their verizon starter phone plan which is $19 and comes with 1GB data @ 3G speed. You'd have to use a 3G only phone like an iphone 4 jailbroken to enable hotspot.

This sucks, $5 for half a gig was so awesome for these Android in car nav units.

USmobile has data plans at $7 for 250MB and $11 for 500mb, $17 for 1GB (these prices include their $2/mo service fee), *check the US Mobile plans here*, this is a Tmobile, they mention AWS 1700/2100 bands and WIKI confirmed. I ordered a SIM today. You can also "build your own plan" with them. Data speeds appear to be 4G as available, they show the Tmobile *coverage map*.

Another alternative I've found so far is from straighttalk, 1GB for $15, *click here to see straighttalk plans* , you can choose between ATT or Tmobile.

Verizon has 1GB for $20, *click here to see verizon options*

Simple moble (Tmobile network) has 1.5gb for $20/mo, *click here to view simple mobile plans*

If you know of any other low cost data plans please post them up.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*ELK-960 Delay timer relay to keep Android Nav unit in sleep rather then booting down when key off.*

The ELK-960 Delay Relay works great; to keep the unit in sleep mode rather than booting down when the key is out of the ignition. I made some videos while hooking it up and will post up later when I have time.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Has anyone found a dual Fakra to ISO antenna adapter that works well? I bought this *antenna adapter *from Amazon but (UPDATE), it works but not as well as the factory radio did.

I did try the bluetooth calling and found the built in microphone was totally useless, not even remotely. It is very weak and had echo really bad. I found a PC microphone in my junk box and tried that in the 3.5mm MIC port on the back and it actually worked pretty well so I just purchased an* external mic* that seems to be pretty popular.

I've heard back from Bob Low, I'm trying to get some support on the bluetooth audio streaming in case there is something in the firmware they can update. My unit sounds over compressed in the high frequency (drum cymbals particularly) and the louder it gets, the worst the problem is.

I'm also trying to get support from Slacker Radio and Bob Low to resolve the issue that the latest releases of Slacker will not cache offline stations. I have found the APK for an older version of slacker, v3.2, which will cache offline stations; it works fairly well but it is a bit unstable. If anyone else is a slacker radio user, please check this out to see if you are also having an issue caching offline. I have tried both Amazon Prime music and Spotify, the will both cache offline fine but their approach isn't as good as slacker and requires a lot more interaction from the user.

My ELK960 delay timer seems to work well too but I'm hoping I can get Bob Low to incorporate this function in the next OS build so we can choose for the nav unit to go to sleep for a period when the key is off rather than booting down immediately. I will eventually post up more info on how to wire in and set up the ELK-960.


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## teqniq (Sep 2, 2003)

ebrzez said:


> Here's the exact radio I have,
> http://www.seicane.com/android-4-4-...80p-video-reverse-camera-mp3-mp4-canbus-k7684
> 
> I am using Seicane's external GPS antenna right now, must be a way to use the OEM GPS antenna in the car.
> ...


Hi Ed,

That's the exact unit I've been looking at too.

Were you able to resolve the issues with the AM/FM or video mirroring?

Also, how is your BT quality with the Seicane unit?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

*Tons of tech information on Android navigation DVD units*

Hi Folks,

So I've learned A LOT about any/all of these Android navigation units in the past few days. Here's a summary:

There's essentially 4-5 primary manufacturers, all the names we recognize are essentially just re-sellers such as Pumpkin, Siecane... 

There is a TON of information on these units and a TONS of very active forum discussion. I need to warn you, if you're a tech-geek at all, this is very dangerous, you could end up spending some serious time with these.

These units all have a microprocessor in them (called the MCU), and then sub-boards such as Bluetooth, DVD, Audio amplifier... are all controlled by the MCU. Android is yet another sub-component which provides the GUI (graphic user interface) and can essentially be considered a remote control for the MCU. The MCU has a unique firmware which must be matched to the specific MCU in your unit, the android OS has it's unique builds as well.

As I mentioned, there are about 5 main manufacturers building these, each of which has a different MCU and a unique MCU firmware. Updates are available but you must be sure you get the right one. 

You can determine which manufacturer made your unit by checking the settings "about tablet" and reading the MCU file name. For example mine says MTCB-KGL1-V2.22 Jan 19 2015. Make sure you do your homework and read up on this before you start flashing your unit, you must use the correct file otherwise functions will be mapped incorrectly or worse, the whole unit could become unusable. From what I've read, these are very robust and there are very few instances of people actually bricking their units even under the worst cases of flashing a totally incorrect fi

I just got my unit and it had all the most current features available, it wasn't named with any specific model number. now that I've found all these links, I know the unit I got is a *Huifei KGL-7028B1*. Huifei/KGL is the manufacturer so I will need to make sure any firwmare updates are KGL updates.

There is so, so much information out there on these, the xda developers form has threads that are over 1000 pages long and very well documented.

Ok, so if you're ready for way more information than you could ever imagine on these units, here's the thread to start on *HuiFei - 2 DIN Pure Android 4.2.2/4.4.2/4.4.4 RK3066/RK3188 CarStereo Radio Head Unit* and another significant thread:* HuiFei - 2 DIN Pure Android 4.2.2/4.4.2/4.4.4 RK3066/RK3188 CarStereo Radio Head Unit*

And this is a very good tracking document were folks are listing the "marketing name", and the actual firmware file which identifies who made it, and then listing issues and solutions: *Experience with RK3066 HeadUnit firmware*

Regarding the ELK960 delay timer I used, it does work well but do note that I've read they actually added a selectable sleep timer in the newer firmware. I'm not sure that all firmware has it but some of them do. 

Regarding the issue of Slacker radio not allowing me to store music for offline listening, the support folks at slacker told me that Slacker requires a certain amount of drive space to save offline files and it appears to only be seeing the 1GB partician of DDR RAM, not the 16GB of additional memory installed in my Nav unit. With this in mind, these units can be updated and Rooted to allow re-partitioning of the RAM so I may look into that.

There is tons of documentation on the poor internal microphone issues as well, and a documented fix for it (open the unit and remove a capacitor).

I did receive my SIM card from US Mobile too (another low cost Tmobile data plan reseller). I don't really understand why but it doesn't work as plug and play as the RedPocket GSMT SIM did. It does work but I had to fiddle around with lots of settings where as the RP GSMT card I just plugged into my hot spot and it fired up and worked. I cant get my laptop to connect with this US mobile SIM either, I got my Android NAV unit to see it and connect. I am using a ZTE MF61 T-mobile branded Hotspot which is a pretty slick little battery powered hotspot I got new on ebay for $15. I also purchased and Unlocked T-MOBILE Rocket ZTE MF59 Thumb drive modem but I can't get it to work at all.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Hey Mark, 

Awesome info you found! I'm definitely going to have to take some time to check it out.

I was wondering if you could help me with the wiring of the SNI-35 real quick? I went out and tried to connect it but I'm getting NO sound at all from my rear now. I think its probably something dumb that I did myself but I cant seem to figure the wiring out. There doesn't seem to be a positive/Negative for the wires so how do you connect them? I attached pictures so maybe you could point it out for me...


























It doesnt make sense to connect both wires to that but according to the directions, it says connect them to the left and connect the (+)/(-) to the right...well the left and right on that was only 1 wire each... HELP :banghead:


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I'll follow up later, working in the yard now but...

Do not turn your unit on like that, you have created a dead short and could burn up the amplifier in the unit.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

thanks! I'll keep that part of the harness unplugged for now and just work with the front audio. I really appreciate the quick reply and help!


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Try to look back, closer at the pictures I posted to see where I actually hocked up the SNI-35 units.

You definitely need to separate the wires immediately, none of the speaker wires should be tied together. For example, the white and the white with black stripe wires, those are + and - wires that you connected together, also called a dead short circuit.

Make sure you understand the theory here, you're rear speaker amplifier expects a "Low level" signal similar to an RCA signal although Audi uses non-standard levels which are slightly higher than normal RCA "low level" signals so the provided head unit RCA outputs will create a sound level much lower than the front speakers which are amplified by the head unit. We get around this by intercepting the "high Level" rear speaker wires from the headunit and then reducing the levels with the PAC SNI-35 to an appropriate level for the Audi Amplifier.

Here's the quick summary which I'll describe better below. You will locate the rear speaker output wires from the head unit, cut them and connect them to the wires that hang out of the SNI-35 (the wires are the input side). Then you will connect the RCA cables that hang out of the CAR-SIDE adapter harness which was provided with the headunit. Keep in mind, the CAR-Side wires that you cut from rear speaker outputs will not be connected to anything anymore, they just hang loose which you can see in my images.

So look back at my images and here's a more detailed text description of what you need to do.

Find the speaker wires that come from the largest "power supply port" as they call it, this is the largest connector on the furthest right when looking at the back of the unit. Using the "Socket Sketch Map" wiring diagram on the top of the head unit you will be using wires 1 through 4 for the Rear output wires. I'm pretty sure this is the purple and green sets on the top right of the connector but be sure to verify that with the "sketch map"/schematic. NOTE, I have BOSE which is fully amplified so I had to do this with both pairs of wires (pins 1-8 rather than 1-4) so I also cut the white and grey pairs of wires, you should not need to cut the second pair for the front speakers. I cut them about half way between the headunit connector and the Car-side connector.

I used "crimp connectors" or "butt splice" connectors to attach the rear speaker wires that I just cut from the head unit side to the SNI-35 wires; the other half of those cut speaker wires on the car-side will no longer be used. The SNI-35 only has white/grey pairs of wires and it doesn't matter which pairs you mate to the Green/Purple pairs as long as you keep them together in pairs. A pair would be one solid wire with its corresponding color with a black stripe on it. If you get left/right mixed up you can just swap the RCA around in the next step to correct Left/Right. An example would be: 

Head unit side ---------->  SNI-35 wires
Green solid ----------> Grey solid 
Green w/black stripe ----------> Grey with black stripe

Purple solid ----------> White solid 
Purple w/black stripe ----------> White with black stripe

Next, I located the RCA connectors on the Car-side adapter harness labeled REAR, and plugged them into the RCA of the SNI-35.

I set the GAIN potentiometers to about 25% as seen in the images.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

So what you're saying, and what it looks like in the pictures you posted is that the harness I connected the SNI-35 to isnt even needed anymore. and i can work all off of the main harness?


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Mark, thanks for the help and im sorry for the confusion...Do you have a background in electrical engineering? you seem pretty knowledgeable about the electrical side of things


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Devinm5 said:


> So what you're saying, and what it looks like in the pictures you posted is that the harness I connected the SNI-35 to isnt even needed anymore. and i can work all off of the main harness?


I think that is correct, in your case without bose. I definitely don't use that connector with my car which is BOSE and all speakers are amplified. Since your front speakers should be the Grey/white pairs (pins 5-8 which you don't cut) then yes, it seems you would not need it either. Thinking about it, that connector is primarily for RCA output from the headunit and I think some RCA or video inputs so none of us Audi owners would use it for speaker signals, it would only be used for the AUX in or video inputs.

No problem helping out, I think of it as a give and receive system (Karma), I get tons of help from others on the forums so I like to give back when I can. And yes, I do have a background in electronics. I'm not an engineer but I do have a degree in Instrumentation/process control which is heavy in electronics and I've always worked on lots of electronics stuff of my own. I own/operate *[url]www.e-lectronics.net*[/URL] on the side which is primarily a service I offer for a specific guitar processor, the ZOOM 9002 which I support and also build custom battery packs for.

Cheers


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

That's great! I'm a mechanical guy here so the electronics part is always a challenge for me. I got everything hooked in and soldered nicely and it is working great now! Thanks again for the help! let me know if you hear any news on the map updates or firmware updates! it would be great to be able to just change a setting and have the head unit sleep instead of turn off when the key is removed. 

btw, if you still have red pocket, they just switched on my end too however they sent me a free new sim card and after calling in, they are letting me keep my $5 a month plan as long as i keep the account open. may be worth a try if youre still having trouble with finding a good carrier. I'm waiting to switch the sim card out with the new one now and ill keep you posted if it works!


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Great, I'm glad that got you fixed up! I'm fairly mechanical too, I maintain 3 Avants and a Passat wagon at home and my day job is instrumenation/test at an R&D proving ground for class 8 trucks, sometimes it's hard to call "work". I'm rebuilding our 500 square foot deck now and I originally built the house as well; I did construction before I went to trade school for my current job..

I just broke ground on the firmware update stuff and I'm following that thread so I'll post back when I have a better handle on that. It seems that this is pretty new so there's some risk in flashing your MCU or ROM, not risk in bricking it, just risk that these new softwares may have undesirable bugs. For now, my ELK960 does the job, I set it to 20 minutes so if I get out and plan on being back within 20 minutes I just hit the power to turn it off and when I get back tap the power again and it fires right up where it left off.

Regarding Redpocket, since mine was only 2 days old they gave me a refund, I haven't tried my card since then. So are you saying you are still using Redpocket GSM-T tmobile based services or did they send you an ATT card? Also, so you are still using a $5/month 500mb plan? I switch to US mobile which is $7/month for 250mb and it was not as plug and play as the redpocket SIM was.

I'm still really struggling with music apps that cache for offline listening, their offline files either get corrupted when the power cycles (amazon prime music does this) or they simply throw and error when trying to download offline content (Slacker v6 does this). I'm using an old slacker 3.2 and it seems to work.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

It looks like there are "sleep options" built into these new custom ROMs the people at XDA are building. Check this *youtube video *to see the ROM, you can see the sleep settings at about 2 minutes. This thread has links to the *ROMs*

Keep in mind, the ROM and the MCU are different. You need to be especially cautious to get the correct MCU update which matches your exact MCU. The ROM's seem to be a bit more interchangeable but you still need to note things like what screen resolution you have. I have a 1024x600 

Here's a *thread *with Links to the MCU update files

From the links I've provided, anyone interested in updating/flashing their units can take it from here. I highly suggest you spend some time reading the information provided at xda before flashing, make sure you understand what you are doing and that you are using the correct files.

Devin- what was the latest on your Red Pocket Plan? Did they set you up with an ATT card for $5/month or is your Tmobile card working again?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I updated the MCU (that's the microcontroller) on my headunit. It came with version KGL1-v2.22, I updated it to v2.53. I can't say that I notice any difference although this firmware allows the newer ROMS to have "sleep" mode. These custom ROMs for the quadcore with 1024x600 display like I have are pretty new so I'm watching for a bit until a few others have reported on using them before I update.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I updated/flashed a new ROM (that is the Android OS), I installed the current version by xda member Malaysk.

I would say it is greatly improved, the sleep function is built in and works great (you will need MCU update first for sleep to work). It has other features built in too like volume adjust with speed and so far I have cached a few Slacker radio stations without issue although Amazon Prime music still corrupts the offline downloaded music after a short period.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Sounds like youve done a lot of updates to the head unit. I'm going to look into updating the MCU and ROM myself. The sleep function would be awesome! 

As far as red pocket. They said they were going to keep me on the same plan but after talking to support today, It doesnt look like thats the case so now im trying to figure out who to get a sim from. I like the straight talk $15 a month for 1GB plan but am now trying to figure out if the usb modem i have will work with the new sim since they say it only works to 1900 MHz band... Have you come across any USB modems that would work with either of the straight talk plans? not having internet really sucks now.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Yes, I’ve done lots of updates.

The MCU updates have only come from the manufacturers until recently, there is a Russian community heavily into these as well and one of their members has modified one of these MCU files which provided a pretty significant audio improvement. It is called v2.55 “with musik” or something along those lines. Just make sure you check what MCU you have, assuming you have a KGL1-2.xx similar to what I started with. 

The xda forum is the place to go for these, the thread is huge and grows every day. It is fairly searchable too. Member Malaysk is the most active with posting new ROM’s and the last one for our 1024x600 display units is a big improvement. You need an MCU of atleast 2.53 and one of the newer ROMS in order to have the sleep settings which will be found under SettingsExtra Settings.

This new ROM changes your internal partitions (in addition to Rooting the device), it makes the primary partition larger which has allowed me to cache some Slacker radio stations using the latest slacker radio app. I still need a bigger partition change although now I am on the right track.

There are a few other go-to apps that people use:

Poweramp, is a music player that’s very popular available on the play store

Viper, is an advanced equalizer, I’d suggest getting the APK by searching google for “viper for android” and going to their site rather than the google playstore. This isnt the most intuitive, read the FAQ but in a nutshell, you install it, it is a standalone app and to make adjustments, you work under the "Phone" Tab

Startup builder, is an app one of the forum members built and you can find in the xda forum thread. The app will tweak your initialization file for you to control which app’s start at boot. I did not like Poweramp coming on everytime it booted up, this app fixed that very easily.

Most everything has been covered in the xda thread, search it, you’ll probably find it.

I am using a tmobile reseller SIM from gousmobile.com, it is about $7 for 256MB or $13 for 500Mb. I’m pretty sure you can use the Straight Talk sim in your modem, just pick the T-mobile SIM. Around here, ATT is a bit better so I might be inclined to choose the ATT SIM and the Modem “might” still work but you have to try it out. The xda thread of course has discussion about what modems are known to work. I don't know yet how to get verizon on a modem dongle like this but several resellers of verizon are starting to offer 4G in small amounts. Tracfone is one of them; I've been using an iphone as a hotspot but that is a pretty expensive hotspot and I have to wake it up each time it hasn't been used for a period. Redpocket has a 1GB verizon 3G plan for $19/mo that would work in an older iphone so if you found a cheap iphone 4 or 4s that you could jailbreak and turn on the hotspot you'd have 1GB of Verizon 3G service pretty cheap 

I have been using Tapatalk app on my phone to track the xda thread since there is so much activity.


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## docurley (Jun 16, 2004)

Great info and I'm hoping for mine to turn up next week and have ordered addition bits as recommended, but I noted no one has confirmed how to get round the aerial signal issue everyone as been having with these units.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

docurley said:


> Great info and I'm hoping for mine to turn up next week and have ordered addition bits as recommended, but I noted no one has confirmed how to get round the aerial signal issue everyone as been having with these units.


Do you mean the antenna? 

I bought a powered adapter from Amazon and it seems to work pretty well, maybe not as well as original but it's ok. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## docurley (Jun 16, 2004)

markcm said:


> Do you mean the antenna?
> 
> I bought a powered adapter from Amazon and it seems to work pretty well, maybe not as well as original but it's ok.
> 
> ...


I sure do, I've orderd the box one that was recommended on here and the volume spliter you recommend and I will look in to the Romsey you have also recommend.


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I may try and do some updates this weekend.

You mentioned you were using your iPhone as a portable hot spot? I've been trying to do that for a while now and it hasnt been working. The car recognizes that my iPhone is there, but when I go to connect, It will say "connecting" and then boot me out like nothing happened. It will never connect to the phone. Ive tested my phone on computers and other tablets and it seems to work fine. Any ideas? I have unlimited data on my phone plan.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

How well does your Wi-Fi work on this unit? I find mine will get warm, particularly when not driving and the Wi-Fi gets really weak or non functional, heat is a known issue, I may add a fan to mine as others have been doing. My iPhone is jail broke, other than that it just connects normal. What mcu version is your HU? You can find it in the settings under the about phone at the bottom. You might find that an mcu update changes some of this core functionality. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

I haven't used wifi that much so I havent had any heat problems, but I have noticed when it is hot outside the unit will sometimes freeze on startup. I have a Jailbroken Iphone 5S running IOS 8.4 (finally ) but still no luck. Ill check the MCU version later today and get back. I'm really thinking about doing an upgrade this weekend. I think that will benefit me anyway and hopefully fix the connectivity problem. It wont let me connect to the phone no matter what. Hopefully i'll have time during the weekend to update. I also have my MK3 Golf that I have been meaning to do some work on as well.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

So I assume you are using tetherme app from cydia? 

And tell me more about jailbreak on iOS.84, is it untethered and who published the tool? I assume this just came out? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Devinm5 (Sep 22, 2011)

Yep, I'm using TetherMe. The 8.4 Jailbreak came out this past weekend with no notice at all. TaiG released it without warning. A lot of the apps are still updating but it is finally untethered. It is TaiG V2.3.0 or V2.3.1 and i actually had to roll back itunes a couple versions. It has been pretty stable so far. No complaints here.


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## docurley (Jun 16, 2004)

*Bose Speaker Fix*

For those have Bose speaker issue this should get round the issue but will require thr red and the yellow lead swap around.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361297552141?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

Hi All,

First off, I want to pass on some big kudos to the OP and other posters on this thread. Really good work and detail provided. :thumbup:

I recently bought a B7 S4 Avant (with Bose system) and I really want to rid myself of the Symphony set-up and have something a little more functional. I'm looking at the Android v4.4 (model Q7684A with quad core) and will do more research over the coming week to decide if that's the one I'll go with. The notes regarding the HI/LO line level, the antenna connection, and BT microphone are all key and I'll be making a list of the extra items I need to purchase before starting the install.

Thanks again and I'll be sure to post updates as I get my head wrapped around all of this.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

slammed_soccerboy said:


> Hi All,
> 
> First off, I want to pass on some big kudos to the OP and other posters on this thread. Really good work and detail provided. :thumbup:
> 
> ...


Post before you're ready to buy, I/we will get you the most current information. -Markcm


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

Hi Markcm,

Here is the link of the product I'd be looking to purchase: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/For-Audi-A4-Car-DVD-Player-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-Seat-Exeo-Quad/136738_32330878212.html

Any feedback would be appreciated.

I realise I'll need to get a few other things with this, including the HI/LO line level converters (PAC-SNI 35), antenna adapter (dual faktra or solution from Enfig?), to make it work. I'm also curious about the delay/sleep timer functionality.

As an update, I have corresponded with Bob Low and they have apparently sent a request to the factory to improve the BT microphone quality. For now he has informed me they will include an external BT mic cable for free.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

That looks like the latest features with quad core rk3188 processor, 16gb ram and HD 1024x 600 display. 

As far as I know, there aren't any units with good Bluetooth chips, I don't know if Bob can help you with that. I don't think these come with A2DP Bluetooth, the streaming audio just sucks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

I received the HU a couple of days ago. It was well packed and shipped and I'll be testing it before doing the full install. All of the comments about Bob's helpfulness to the sharp edges on the unit have been spot on. 

Of note, the box says it comes with A2DP BT, but that could just be false advertising. I'll hope to get it all installed within the next couple of weeks. Will be happy to post pictures/comments if requested, but I think the work done here by the OP and other posters has been pretty thorough. 

Looking forward to having this in!


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I will be very interested to know if it has A2DT BT, it should be easy to tell, my BT music streaming is really poor quality. I have other cheap $10 BT adapters that work great, I'm really bummed at how crappy it is in my HU. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I just checked the ad for the unit I bought, it also claimed A2DP. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

Hi markcm,
I've been accumulating the remaining bits and pieces to finish the install and I've been wondering about the BT microphone. All of the comments from posters here say the built in BT in these Android HUs isn't good, which is why Bob has thrown in a separate mic. What would it take to use the existing BT mic built into the car, which I believe is wired near (or in) the interior light assembly if I'm reading the factory wiring diagrams properly. The quality of my BT conversations with my OEM HU are good, so I'm wondering what, if anything, can be done to keep that quality without having to stick the supplied mic in a random place.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Unless your car came with the bluetooth option, I don't think it will have the mic. I have seen where someone installed an aftermarket mic in the center headliner location you mention, that looks like a great place for it if you can cleanly get the wiring there.

The BT mic in my headunit was unusable (as are most, although I think the designers are working on improving). I bought an aftermarket external mic and it seems to work really well. Here's the* link to the mic* I bought. Also be aware that many of these had the internal and external mic's physically coupled internally which caused issues with the external mic as well. The xda thread covers this extensively with pictures and instructions how to de-couple them if your unit is subject. I don't believe I have any issue with coupling and since yours came from Bob, it may not as well.

For mic placement, I just ran mine under steering column, over by the fuse panel, up the A-pillar next to the windshield, and then clipped it to the corner of the sun-visor.


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

My car came with the SymphonyII Head Unit, along with a BT telephone system. Wiring diagrams show the BT mic to be located in dome light area, with the loud speaker below the centre of the dash (behind defroster vents). 

I installed my new Android HU and tested the BT phone system today through the unit. I did not install the supplied mic from Bob, I simply just made a call through the head unit and let the OEM mic and loudspeaker do their thing. I heard the caller perfectly and they heard me clearly as well, although they reported an echo when they were speaking from their end. Not sure if that was the BT system, or just the phone line. I'll continue to test the functionality.

Regarding the satellite navigation from the sharkfin antenna, unfortunately I don't have the square, blue fakra connector sitting there behind the head unit. After digging around with a flashlight, I think I have found it sitting in the left-rear side compartment behind a black, plastic box. Two bolts to remove the box are accessible, but it looks like there is another bolt hidden behind the factory side interior panel. After reading the maintenance manual, access to this area behind the interior parts looks like a bit of a pain in the a$$ since I apparently need to remove the rear bottom bench, disconnect the side airbag, remove the side padding (next to door), then removing the side interior parts that cover the box. 

The only doubt I have is with the airbag connection because I haven't worked around them before, but before I actually dig into it, I'd like to make sure there isn't a short cut or something simpler I can follow. Any tips or tricks you guys may know of for this?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I assume you have a sedan? In my wagon it's pretty easy to get to the components in the rear driver side quarter panel. 

By the way, an aftermarket gps antenna works pretty well under the dash. 

There's a ton of info on the BT internal microphones at the Xda forum, they are notoriously bad design. Mine sounded so bad it was unusable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

You might check your firmware too. Its the MCE version shown in your settings. Someone in the forums I think he goes by dark Leo or something like that, has altered some of the sound settings in a custom MCE file, it makes a significant sound improvement. Be sure to read the details before you edit your MCE firmware, you have to have the right version to match what is currently on your unit. For example my unit is a KGL1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

I'm running a B7 S4 Avant. The research I've done shows I need to remove the interior piece by the left-rear quarter panel. It's a bit of a PITA because I have to pop out the rear seat to get at other trim bits. There's an airbag disconnect as well, which shouldn't be too bad. I'm going to tackle it tonight. 

Thanks for the info regarding the MCE. I'm planning to get to all of that stuff over the coming weeks. I'm doing is slowly as I'm waiting for other pieces to come in (I decided to do the backup cam).


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I removed my B7 Avant rear interior panel without removing the seat or bolster, just tipped the seat forward. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slammed_soccerboy (Jul 16, 2007)

I found the GPS antenna stuffed back there (blue faktra connector in the photo) along with 2 other connectors that I assume would be for the nav system if I had that in my car. Now I need to order a GPS extension cable (about 5m (15ft) of RG-174 coaxial cable) with female fakra connectors to bring it up to the head unit. 

I could just use the supplied GPS antenna from the HU I ordered, but I'd rather use the OEM antenna in the shark fin. Plus, it makes this project a little more interesting. 

Photo for reference showing the three connectors behind the rear quarter panel interior piece (B7 avant, without Nav head unit):


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## rbrown2769 (Sep 29, 2015)

[No message]


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

NO,

l ended up not using any of the "RCA" wires circled in that image.

The idea is that you want to use the normal speaker wires from the head unit, reduce their levels with the SNI-35 and then send to your internal car amplifier. These speaker wires are in pairs like Grey/Grey with black stripe..... White/White with Black stripe...Green/Green with black stripe.... Purple/Purple with black stripe.

Like this picture from post #50


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## rbrown2769 (Sep 29, 2015)

markcm said:


> NO,
> 
> l ended up not using any of the "RCA" wires circled in that image.
> 
> ...


T

Thanks, I got it! I will post a review in a few days...I installed this unit--- http://www.aliexpress.com/item/7-In...-Mirroring-Function-OBD2-for/32448462318.html 
I paid around $355 and received it in about 4 days. I installed it in a 2007 Audi A4 convertible with Bose. Waiting on a couple of accesories before completing the installation but the sound is pretty good using PAC units as described by MarkCM.


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## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

rbrown2769 said:


> T
> 
> Thanks, I got it! I will post a review in a few days...I installed this unit--- http://www.aliexpress.com/item/7-In...-Mirroring-Function-OBD2-for/32448462318.html
> I paid around $355 and received it in about 4 days. I installed it in a 2007 Audi A4 convertible with Bose. Waiting on a couple of accesories before completing the installation but the sound is pretty good using PAC units as described by MarkCM.


Looking forward to hearing your review!
Particularly, I'm interested in these points as they seem to be the hit/miss areas for these units:
- radio reception with Bose
- DIS/FIS integration display (does it work for radio/MP3 info? Do nav instructions display in the cluster?)
- bluetooth connection with phone and phonebook functionality
- bluetooth connection to BT OBDII dongle, if you have one
- wifi connection to phone's hotspot

Cheers


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## rbrown2769 (Sep 29, 2015)

GTIfreak said:


> Looking forward to hearing your review!
> Particularly, I'm interested in these points as they seem to be the hit/miss areas for these units:
> - radio reception with Bose
> - DIS/FIS integration display (does it work for radio/MP3 info? Do nav instructions display in the cluster?)
> ...


- My radio reception with Bose depends on the area..Very good in some areas....probably needs antenna amplifer. Not good on AM..hardly no stations.
- My dash display works with the cd, radio, sd player...shows the tracks number. Some radio stations shows the names.
- I did not get the Nav software with this unit. I downloaded Map apps from google play, but have not got that figured out yet.
- bluetooth connection with phone is very good. Have not tried the phonebook functionality yet.
- have the OBDII on order....will update when I receive it.
- I used a tmobile hotspot and it is excellent. I would like to have the 3G dongle for this unit.
I have used the units for a few days and I am liking it. Once I followed MarkCm post #50...It has been right on. The Bose sounds good to me. Lack of documentaion makes it hard to figure out all of the features.
I will be adding the OBDII dongle, xtron front camera DVR015, and rear view camera in the next week or so. 
I will post again in a few days with updates.


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## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

rbrown2769 said:


> - My radio reception with Bose depends on the area..Very good in some areas....probably needs antenna amplifer. Not good on AM..hardly no stations.
> - My dash display works with the cd, radio, sd player...shows the tracks number. Some radio stations shows the names.
> - I did not get the Nav software with this unit. I downloaded Map apps from google play, but have not got that figured out yet.
> - bluetooth connection with phone is very good. Have not tried the phonebook functionality yet.
> ...


Thank you!

Does the sound volume still adjust to the noise inside the cabin? My current Bose system does that nicely with the speed-sensitive or noise-sensitive automatic volume adjustment.
I'm curious if someone is using the built-in Nav whether it displays directions in the cluster.

The general experience with radio reception on these units is poor even in other car communities like BMW etc. even with amplifiers. So, I'm curious if there's a solution for Audi for these "latest" units or whether they are the same radio receivers from the last few years in all of these untis.


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

Hey all -Full disclosure, I suck at audio stuff. 

This is sorta off topic- but this thread had the most information on these headunits. I just picked one of these up used from a local who had a 2005.5 A4, and expected it to be plug and play. But the plugs aren't matching up. So I'll try to make this as easy as possible- 
I have a 2005.5 S4 with RNS-E and Bose. 
This is the harness I have coming from the car- 


These are the harnesses that came with the Android unit:

Which doesn't fit.
And This one that does.

But when it's plugged in some pins (for speakers are not engaged)


What am I missing? Is there a different harness I could buy? 

Thanks for the help, and once I get this installed I'll post a review.
Cheers.


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## 2mitts (Nov 3, 2015)

*Question and Thank you!*

I'm so happy to have found this thread! Though there are loads of android HU sites out there, non are specific to our cars like this one, so thank you to everyone who is offering solutions and guidance. I will have a few questions here, but my first will be in regards to the PAC SNI-35. I see in your photos you are running two of these. Is this because you are running the bose system or aftermarket amps? I was under the impression only one of those would be needed for the rears which are amplified. What am I missing?


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## 2mitts (Nov 3, 2015)

*2008 A3 joins the mix*

Super thanks to everyone for posting their questions and solutions here. I just received my unit for my audi a3 (non bose) and so far I'm shocked how easily everything has gone. I will note this, the other posters who mentioned the RAZOR SHARP Chasis on these things is not exaggerating! I haven't had a sheet metal cut like this in forever, clean and super deep, please USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING.

My unit is newer than most in here (but identical in and has the built in delay for powering all the way down. It has a 2 hour stand by (adjustable from 2 mins to 2 hrs if memory serves). This is super helpful but I'm still leaning towards doing some work to the UI as while it's not bad, it's not super great either. The XDA Forums are crawling with info, but it's all very overwhelming and mostly over my head. For now I'm focusing on the install and that's where my questions come in:

Where did everone locate their USB plugs and GPS?

I figure an A4 should be close enough to give me some guidance since I think that's what everyone in here has thus far. 

Thanks! (and I'll be back with reports as I


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

GTIfreak said:


> Thank you!
> 
> Does the sound volume still adjust to the noise inside the cabin? My current Bose system does that nicely with the speed-sensitive or noise-sensitive automatic volume adjustment.
> I'm curious if someone is using the built-in Nav whether it displays directions in the cluster.
> ...


These come with software app for volume/speed sensitive control. It works "OK". I set mine to increase volume by one "click" at about 8mph and that's it. Anymore and its too noticeable, I find this setting nice unless you are in stop and go traffic and you keep crossing that 8mph threshold repeatedly.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

nucciOMG said:


> Hey all -Full disclosure, I suck at audio stuff.
> 
> This is sorta off topic- but this thread had the most information on these headunits. I just picked one of these up used from a local who had a 2005.5 A4, and expected it to be plug and play. But the plugs aren't matching up. So I'll try to make this as easy as possible-
> I have a 2005.5 S4 with RNS-E and Bose.
> ...


You shouldn't need that first connector shown in your second picture. 

I suggest you read back to my post #41 and Post #50, and post #54, post #58 and Post #71 for more detail on this. 

Here are a few tips:

Your car uses the newer "Quadlock" connector. These head units typically come with both adapter types, you only use the one that mates with your car.

Some of our cars have built-in external amplifiers, the BOSE cars definitely do. In these cases you would think you'd use the RCA outputs from the head unit but... that's not the case. You actually need to splice into to speaker level wires and use a signal attenuator like the SNI-35 I spoke of (details are in the previous posts), then the output of the SNI-35 (or similar device) goes to the RCA connectors in the Adapter harness on the vehicle side. Here is the picture from post #50 showing the splice:


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

2mitts said:


> I'm so happy to have found this thread! Though there are loads of android HU sites out there, non are specific to our cars like this one, so thank you to everyone who is offering solutions and guidance. I will have a few questions here, but my first will be in regards to the PAC SNI-35. I see in your photos you are running two of these. Is this because you are running the bose system or aftermarket amps? I was under the impression only one of those would be needed for the rears which are amplified. What am I missing?


I am BOSE, I use two because they are only two channels each. One is for the front speakers, the other is for the rear speakers.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

2mitts said:


> Super thanks to everyone for posting their questions and solutions here. I just received my unit for my audi a3 (non bose) and so far I'm shocked how easily everything has gone. I will note this, the other posters who mentioned the RAZOR SHARP Chasis on these things is not exaggerating! I haven't had a sheet metal cut like this in forever, clean and super deep, please USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING.
> 
> My unit is newer than most in here (but identical in and has the built in delay for powering all the way down. It has a 2 hour stand by (adjustable from 2 mins to 2 hrs if memory serves). This is super helpful but I'm still leaning towards doing some work to the UI as while it's not bad, it's not super great either. The XDA Forums are crawling with info, but it's all very overwhelming and mostly over my head. For now I'm focusing on the install and that's where my questions come in:
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what you meant when you say "locate USB plugs and GPS"? Do you mean where were they installed?

I routed an extension cable from the back of the unit to the glove box for the USB. My car came with Navigation so I just got an adapter and connected to the factory GPS antenna. I also tried the aftermarket GPS antenna puck tucked up in the dash and it seemed to work just as well.


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## 2mitts (Nov 3, 2015)

*Appreciate the feedback- microSD 128gb*

Sorry, should have been more specific but you answered my question. I was looking at the glove box to locate the usb cable but on my '08 A3 there's no easy way to route the cable without dropping the entire glove box out to punch a new hole in the back of it and route the cable. Being one person over here I decided not to tackle that as reinstall looks to be a 2 person job. For now I'm running it down the inside of the dash and out the side where it's just kinda dangling there, down and to the left of the glove box. Not pretty but it's there. lol. Was able to run the GPS to the corner of the passenger windshield/dash area and that seems to be working well. 

Today I got a 128gig microSD card working so I doubt I'll be using the USB a ton anyway so I may just tuck it back into the dash. I formatted the card on my PC with a free application located here: http://www.ridgecrop.demon.co.uk/index.htm?fat32format.htm. It's a tiny GUI app that will format pretty much any sized drive or memory card fat32. That single card holds everything I need, pretty excited about that. 

Software: Still exploring the XDA forums, but looks like my unit has close to the latest MCU update (sleep enabled 2.55 if memory serves) so doubt i'll touch much there. I will continue to research the firmware updates though as I would like to get the horrible music player app replaced with poweramp and still have steering wheel control (I still have volume but lose track skipping) and more importantly be able to mute it when switching over to other apps (unless you stop it manually it will keep playing in the background even if you switch over to radio or movie player). Sorry if I'm being overly explicit here, but I want anyone who finds this forum to get as many answers about potential issues as possible so they know what they are getting into. 

I'll be back with more updates as I move forward. Thanks again for all your contributions.


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## 2mitts (Nov 3, 2015)

*Much appreciated*



markcm said:


> I am BOSE, I use two because they are only two channels each. One is for the front speakers, the other is for the rear speakers.


Probably overly looked that info someplace else, so thank you for reposting. I'll be ordering one of those units for the rears on my non bose system.
Thanks!


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

markcm said:


> You shouldn't need that first connector shown in your second picture.
> 
> I suggest you read back to my post #41 and Post #50, and post #54, post #58 and Post #71 for more detail on this.
> 
> ...


Hey, thanks very much for that information. I went a head and ordered the PAC SNI-35s, and wired them up (to the best of knowledge) correctly. 

I connected the corresponding wires from the main harness for the headunit to the car SNI-35s and then RCA to the car side of the adaptor. I did not connect the grounds, because I couldn't tell if anyone else had. (Probably my next step)

Tape is temporary while testing. 

*So the issue is I'm not getting any sound*. Do I need to ground the PAC SNI? (If so, where should I ground it to?) Or and I missing something else? Did I screw up entirely? Is Big Foot real? 

Thanks again for the help, you're a gentleman and a scholar. 
Cheers.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

nucciOMG said:


> *So the issue is I'm not getting any sound*. Do I need to ground the PAC SNI? (If so, where should I ground it to?) Or and I missing something else? Did I screw up entirely? Is Big Foot real?
> 
> Thanks again for the help, you're a gentleman and a scholar.
> Cheers.


I don't believe you should need to ground them. 

For sound, did you set the levels with the little potentiometers built into the SNI-35 units? They come with a little plastic screwdriver for level adjustment. Be careful as these are very fragile. In one of my posts I show where I set mine for 'best level', I think it was about 25% from full counter clockwise. If these happen to come pre-set to full counter clockwise you would not get any audio passing through them. Check that and then post back.


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

markcm said:


> I don't believe you should need to ground them.
> 
> For sound, did you set the levels with the little potentiometers built into the SNI-35 units? They come with a little plastic screwdriver for level adjustment. Be careful as these are very fragile. In one of my posts I show where I set mine for 'best level', I think it was about 25% from full counter clockwise. If these happen to come pre-set to full counter clockwise you would not get any audio passing through them. Check that and then post back.


Yes, I have messed with the knobs. I set them to the 25% like you (I have tried to copy your install as close as possible.) can I adjust these values while audio is playing? Will it randomly start working when I hit the right value?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Ok, assuming the pots are at any position other than counter clockwise, you should have some output and it is adjustable while playing the unit, that wouldn't matter. 

I'll try to take another look at your pictures to brainstorm ideas. 


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

markcm said:


> Ok, assuming the pots are at any position other than counter clockwise, you should have some output and it is adjustable while playing the unit, that wouldn't matter.
> 
> I'll try to take another look at your pictures to brainstorm ideas.
> 
> ...


Okay, I pulled my radio out again and looked around. I found this cable in the box the headunit came in:


It plugs into a different section of the headunit, shown on this diagram:

It's the "A" portion of the lower readout, with the female RCA cables. 

So I'm thinking thats part of my issue, because I am getting ZERO noise with the current setup. 

Here is another picture of the female RCAs

So where do I go from here? My basic knowledge is maxed because I'm not seeing a + and - thru the RCA (if required?) 

Sorry I have the dum.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

The A portion is traditional RCA outputs. The will have the same audio output as the speaker wires but at a much lower voltage. 

You can connect them to the vehicle side harness (same place where the SNI-35 RCA are plugged now. On my vehicle with Bose there was a significant ground noise and the level was too low but at least I could hear the signal to know the amps were on and working. Since you don't have bose, I'm not sure how your system works exactly. 

Try plugging those in and the report back if you get any audio through. 


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## nucciOMG (May 13, 2015)

markcm said:


> The A portion is traditional RCA outputs. The will have the same audio output as the speaker wires but at a much lower voltage.
> 
> You can connect them to the vehicle side harness (same place where the SNI-35 RCA are plugged now. On my vehicle with Bose there was a significant ground noise and the level was too low but at least I could hear the signal to know the amps were on and working. Since you don't have bose, I'm not sure how your system works exactly.
> 
> ...


I do have Bose.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Ok, in that case your wiring should remain the same as mine although you can still try connecting the Rca from the A connector on the back of the head unit to the harness adapter on the car just to see if you get anything. It should work although the volume would be about half of normal and likely have buzzing ground loop noise. This is all presuming that your head unit is both functional and built the same as mine. 


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## 2mitts (Nov 3, 2015)

*Follow up and progress made*

Checking in with some updates and new information:

All info is in regards to my 08 audi a3 with NON BOSE. 

1) *IMPORTANT* check locking tabs before installing in case they are BENT. 
My unit (same a DevinM5 ) does NOT have a lower set of locking arms that lock the unit into the DIN opening, even though the face of the stereo shows 4 openings (where the keys go to remove the deck). The bottom ones literally go to nothing. Also, the metal on my unit is so flimsy that when putting the stereo in the first time (i'm guessing here) I bent the little metal tabs that are supposed to be what the stereo keys grab onto/depress. Needless to say getting the deck out to do more work on it became a serious challenge (especially when I didn't know the bottom openings went to nothing!). Since there are no locking tabs on the bottom half of the unit, it does not stay in place particularly well and I have a pretty gnarly gap on the top of the unit. I may be able to find a solution to this, but for now it doesn't have the tightest fit and finish. 

2) Marcm's directions to get a correct level going to the rear speakers/sub worked beautifully. I used the unit he recommended and it has restored proper levels to the rear of the car. 

3) Haven't felt the need to do the Radio Dual Antenna Adapter. All my stations come in great on my unit. (though now that I say that I haven't tried AM)

4) I have successfully rooted the device and have it running almost the way I want. I bit the bullet and installed a custom ROM which wiped out the crappy launcher the unit came with and opened up all sorts of new options. Go here to learn all about it: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662

5) Still can't manage to Root my android phone so I can get wifi tethering going, but I'm working on it. Thankfully Google said yesterday they are releasing an OFFLINE version of Google maps where you can download you're entire city/area. That's great for me because I love my google maps and they can be updated everytime I pull in the garage (wifi). 

Thanks again for everyone's contributions. I'll chime in when I have more to report.


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## 2mitts (Nov 3, 2015)

*Update: Microphone*

You'll read on the other forums that the microphone sucks in these units. I must have a generation 2 or something, because while the audio leaves much to be desired, I can also say that given it's placement in the HU it actually works about as well as an after market microphone if used in the stock location. I have tried 3 mics from various manufacturers, 2 highly rated on amazon and have not noticed a gain in quality that would justify the install. Unless you place any of these mics right on the visor, the audio seems to be pretty much the same. So, My quest for a microphone install in the stock location comes to an end, and I'm sticking with what's built in. This is the seller I grabbed my unit from on ebay if anyone wants a unit similar to mine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-Qua...261456?hash=item43e2c35710:g:X2IAAOSwKIpV-6uW

*price has increased since I bought by about 120 bucks! Not sure what's up with that.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

I'm guessing the reason the placement of the external mic having no effect is because these HU's typically have the internal and external microphones coupled internally. This is a highly documented issue with instructions how to separate them at the xda forum. I have noticed the same with mine and have not done the capacitor separation mod yet 


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## Andy_TN (Apr 22, 2001)

What a terrific thread. Any changes/updates/improvements with regards to Bluetooth audio quality? Bluetooth streaming is my primary motivator for upgrading from Symphony (non Bose) - as I'm tired of this tape adapter. 

I have been eyeing this particular unit for $299 on eBay, in case anyone has any feedback or can decipher whether it would include a newer os. ? 
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281851321785 

Thanks in advance. 


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Andy_TN said:


> What a terrific thread. Any changes/updates/improvements with regards to Bluetooth audio quality? Bluetooth streaming is my primary motivator for upgrading from Symphony (non Bose) - as I'm tired of this tape adapter.
> 
> I have been eyeing this particular unit for $299 on eBay, in case anyone has any feedback or can decipher whether it would include a newer os. ?
> http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281851321785
> ...


Be aware the unit you linked to is Windows Mobile based OS, not Android. There is much less user based development for these units compared to the Android versions, they have smaller processors and are not a customizable.

With that said, they might have a different or better bluetooth, unfortunately I don't know where to check and I wouldn't trust the seller; they will tell you its perfect... It seems like I recall these WIN-CE based units had better bluetooth audio streaming and a better iPhone integration but Im not positive.

I'm seeling my Android Quadcore unit which looks identical to the one you linked but, it doesnt stream bluetooth audio very well. You might look toward Pioneer and Kenwood double DIN units. I just bought a Kenwood DDX-6702s which can mirror your smart phone, the audio quality is better than these chinese units and the bluetooth works amazing. 

The best source for information is the XDA forums http://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto


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## twizller (Dec 22, 2015)

Hi,

I installed the head unit (quad core version) and used two SNI-35 for my front and rear speakers as my 2007 Audi A4 has BOSE. Everything is working good, just have to play with the gain a bit and have to fix the issue where i cannot feel any base (equalizer problem?) but my main issue is that my top DIS display is black. As soon as the unit powers and boots up, the top DIS display used to display the track information/radio information goes black. Any idea on how fix this issue? I am assuming i forgot to plug some cable in? I only used the power switch connector where i spliced in the SNI-35 units.

Can someone help me out in order to get the DIS display to work and also improve the base? I currently have the gain on the SNI-35 set to about 15% and i will increase it to around 25% to see if that will make a difference.

Thanks for the help.


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

twizller said:


> Hi,
> 
> I installed the head unit (quad core version) and used two SNI-35 for my front and rear speakers as my 2007 Audi A4 has BOSE. Everything is working good, just have to play with the gain a bit and have to fix the issue where i cannot feel any base (equalizer problem?) but my main issue is that my top DIS display is black. As soon as the unit powers and boots up, the top DIS display used to display the track information/radio information goes black. Any idea on how fix this issue? I am assuming i forgot to plug some cable in? I only used the power switch connector where i spliced in the SNI-35 units.
> 
> ...


For bass output, I struggled a bit too but eventually get a pretty good sound. Here's what I did. 

First, do your best to tailor the built in EQ and turn on the loudness.

Next, download and install Viper for Android. This app is a glorified EQ, it's a little weird at first because it's make for a phone so there are two different settings, something like "device" and "phone"; you have to play with it to figure out which one effects the audio on the headunit. I was able to achieve a much fuller sound using this viper sound processing app.

Last, add Viper to the auto-start apps using the autostart "PCV builder" app. 

You might also check to ensure that your sub is working at all, I assume it is as long as the rear speakers are working because I think they are powered by the same amp. I didn't have any issues with the provided harness and amp turn-on but it's worth checking.

Regarding DIS. Mine doesn't have this either and until recently, none of them did. I haven't been staying current so I don't know if the change was hardware or software, or if it is year dependent (such as 2009 or newer...). Check the xda forums for more info on this.


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## Andy_TN (Apr 22, 2001)

Ah ha, I did not notice it is Windows Mobile based - thank you for pointing it out. I'll keep researching and hoping to find something closer to $300....than $400-500. 



markcm said:


> Be aware the unit you linked to is Windows Mobile based OS, not Android. There is much less user based development for these units compared to the Android versions, they have smaller processors and are not a customizable.
> 
> With that said, they might have a different or better bluetooth, unfortunately I don't know where to check and I wouldn't trust the seller; they will tell you its perfect... It seems like I recall these WIN-CE based units had better bluetooth audio streaming and a better iPhone integration but Im not positive.
> 
> ...


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## 69bug (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re*

I'm really interested in how well this HU worked out. Lookinh for an upgrade. How does the obd2 part work?


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## 69bug (Aug 10, 2002)

*Re*

I'm really interested in how well this HU worked out. Looking for an upgrade. How does the obd2 part work?


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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Obd2 worked really well on mine, that was one of the best parts. I ended up selling it and buying a kenwood ddx6702s for the refined interface and much better sound quality. 


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## Sdyball (Oct 15, 2016)

Hi, 
New to the forum and looking for some info on a new head unit. I have a 2005 A4 B7, I've been looking at a similar unit to the android unit that some of you have but what I need to know is what parts I need to install it. I will be going from a single din audi concert to double din android. I've seen a couple of guides online but no list of parts needed etc. This thread is one of the best I've seen to date so thought it was a good place to start. 
Thanks for any info

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## markcm (Jun 19, 2009)

Sdyball said:


> Hi,
> New to the forum and looking for some info on a new head unit. I have a 2005 A4 B7, I've been looking at a similar unit to the android unit that some of you have but what I need to know is what parts I need to install it. I will be going from a single din audi concert to double din android. I've seen a couple of guides online but no list of parts needed etc. This thread is one of the best I've seen to date so thought it was a good place to start.
> Thanks for any info
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Most of what I have already posted is still applicable.

Major differences are that your B7 will have a quadlock connector rather than the ISO connectors shown in my install example. Other possible changes are whether or not you have BOSE or whether or not your system is amplified, these conditions impact all Audi/VW installations the same. Both of these potentials will impact if you need to use the SNI-35 Hi-Lo adapters. If you have BOSE or internal amplifiers, you will need an SNI-35; without them your levels will be wrong and likely have electrical noise (hum/buzz/popping).

Personally, I played with the android for awhile, it was fun but very time consuming and in the end I never achieved the sound quality, intuitive interface, or stability to make it worth it. None of these chinese systems use internal components that can produce sound as good a brand name HU. I ended up switching out to a Kenwood with CARPLAY; although its much more limited, it works and works well along with great sound quality. 

On these android units, bluetooth, internal/external mic functionality and quality, wifi/cell and app integration can and has caused many hours of headaches for many people. In my opinion, unless you are planning on spending a fair amount of time getting one of these android units to perform somewhat smooth and sound half decent, time and money is better spent on a brand name head unit. Again, that's just my opinion as a gadget geek who has spent plenty of hours with an android HU and now converted to conventional.


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## pantelis.tsakali (Mar 10, 2016)

Hi there guys I am also on the search to find an android unit for my A3 8P....I am trying to find one that supports the BOSE sound system and the rds on the speedometer dash screen....do you have any to recommend ? 

Στάλθηκε από το SM-N920C μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk


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## martylaherty (Jul 28, 2017)

*great thread*

Hi guys, what a fantastic thread this turned out to be! I have read so many and none come close to being as useful as this!

I am having a nightmare with all this and deciding what to do. 

I got my wife an android stereo for her kid bus. They LOVE it. Aux in for story tapes (old cassettes!), iGo sat nav, DVD, games, rear cam, just brilliant!

I have just got myself an Audi A6 and wanted to set something similar up in there. I am considering this one https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...32791597826.html?spm=2114.12010610.0.0.aNZtra

I then learned about Bose problems etc, and found this thread. My Audi A6 is a C5 (2004/5 Allroad). It has the old original Audi satnav/tv/Bose system. 

Am I going to be able to get it working ok do you guys think?
I was dubious at the start of this thread, but within a few pages I noticed stuff evolved and maybe it is now possible with adapters etc. 

I mainly want to have youtube on it, DVD, Satnav, and phone connectivity (important). Other than that, anything else is a bonus, but I definitely will not use games, browser, email (in the car ffs?!) and many other features. I would be really grateful for any advice here, thanks


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