# Stop! Car too low! message appearing



## cefdvm (Jun 11, 2007)

Lately I've been getting the Stop! Car too low! message when I start the car if it has been sitting more than 6 hours or so. the front appears to be too low. After 20-30 seconds, the front end raises up high emough and the message goes away. It didn't do this when I first got the car. I'm going in for my 80,000 mile service soon. Can this wait until then?


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: Stop! Car too low! message appearing (cefdvm)*

Carl,
If by "soon", you mean sometime this week, then probably it can wait.
If "soon" translates into "next month", then I would schedule something sooner.


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## copernicus0001 (Nov 30, 2004)

*Re: Stop! Car too low! message appearing (cefdvm)*

Carl,
You may want to charge the AGM battery (the one on the driver's side - left side - in the trunk). The battery being low may cause this issue. Be sure to use a battery charger appropriate for an AGM battery.
Douglas


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## aaron843 (Oct 16, 2010)

*Stop Car Too Low*

I get this message too, but only after two or three days of not driving the car. After a few seconds to a minute (depending on how long the car has been sitting) it clears. I've had the battery on the drivers side replaced. That did not fix it.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi,

Your dealer will do a scan to see if the system reports a slow leak in a suspension pipe, strut or pressure distribution block.

A very slow leak can wait its turn, a faster leak can burn the compressor, which is an expensive gadget.

It isn't unheard of for a garage to pinch a pressure pipe by jacking the car with the support in the wrong place.

Chris


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## aaron843 (Oct 16, 2010)

Paximus said:


> Hi,
> 
> Your dealer will do a scan to see if the system reports a slow leak in a suspension pipe, strut or pressure distribution block.
> 
> ...


Thanks. The service adviser at Dirito Brothers VW in Walnut Creek said that it was nothing to worry about.


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## turcat (Jul 15, 2013)

*suspension slow*

Mine failed completely some months ago and the car went down on its haunches and I worried a bit then two days later having left it - it got better!

however now the raise and lower system is very slow. any ideas guys?
David


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Sounds like a slow leak somewhere. You need to get a scan.


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## ilanna1 (Oct 7, 2009)

*car too low error*

i have an 04 v8 phaeton, suddenly got "stop...too low" error. Car went down, Right side worse than left. Manual raising the level didn't work w the button and/or turning the knob (icon of a car with up and down arrows, below middle display, to the right of knob, next to ESP OFF button). The level stayed at "normal" and wouldnt go to "high." SOMETIMES got the error "level cannot be changed." I was attempting to change it while stationary. Eventually it did go up to 'high' for a few minutes, then right back down. Car since leaning to one side, very low dragging, afraid to drive. Checked the fuses - fine. Dilemma is car has over 100k and, as many, we've spent thousands yearly. 

I've read on here about struts, airbags, slow leaks and a few other things it could be, but it sounds like highly likely to be the struts, unless I'm wrong. 

If it ends up being struts and that whole system I've read about on here, we know the dealer will tell us abt having to replace all 4, and won't consider refurbished where you can just replace the faulty one, even tho refurbished have come around in the last few years. But perhaps dealer could find that it's something less dramatic, like a slow leak or something. If we try a repairshop that works on Phaetons (allegedly, yes, we know the risk), he can't check the actual cost and location for struts or airbags without looking at #s off current ones (VIN is not enough info). AND if we tow it to him and turns out to be an expensive repair like the struts thing, we'll have to tow it back home while he waits on the parts to come in, then tow back to him. 

Wondering: 1) what's the likelihood that it's something not dramatic like having to replace all the struts (or whatever that system is)? Something more minor that we could just let the dealer fix? Dealer is obviously easier, we get a loaner, etc. 
2) If we tow it to dealer, it turns out to be the struts/whatever that we can't afford 4-8K for them to fix, then tow it to 2nd mechanic - what's the likelihood of the 2nd mechanic accepting the dealer computer scan/diagnosis Vs having to pay him for another computer scan/diagnosis?
3) I've read on here that you can hop under the car somehow and find the #s off the struts, but as you can tell, I'm not a mechanic. If I re-read the posts on how to do it, how complicated is it to actually get under there and check, so I can give the #s to the mechanic b4 towing it all over creation, so he can look for parts? Hubby says I'd have to have the car elevated to check the #s....

Thanks

PS the terms i shouldve been using are "air suspension," "air spring struts," "the console switch did not elevate the car," "I checked the fuse that protects the air compressor pump in the trunk battery," "shock absorber," "rebuilt air suspension components", "front ride shock leaking air possibly?", "ride height sensor failure?" , "bad suspension controller-only problem," "dampers which i guess is the same as strut?", "level sensors,"


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

It's probably the right front strut, but the compressor is also a possibility. If you've got eyes and a flashlight, and are able to crouch, you can read the strut serial number. It's at the top of the strut, above the level of the wheel, you might have to give it a rub to get the dirt off, but it'll almost certainly end in Q. I believe three of us are now running a mix of three old struts with one new one (AD suffix), so it may well be possible to just fit a single new strut. To replace all 4 plus the controller costs in the region of $9k, but there are a few better alternatives. Assuming you don't want to gamble on a new AD strut, just take it to any shop that works on large, expensive German cars, there's nothing difficult about changing the strut on a Phaeton, although you probably will need to run a suspension adaptation afterwards (plus a wheel alignment) using VCDS. The best alternative to a new strut is a remanufactured one from Master Tech. You can either send yours in and receive a core credit for it, or you can send it in and have them refurbish your strut. The net cost (after the core charge) is about $650, with labor on top of that. My guess is you're probably looking at $1k plus the alignment for that option.

Also, it is possible to drive the car. I drove mine home very slowly a couple of miles after mine failed. And for towing, check your insurance, a lot of them now include towing (mine does).


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## ilanna1 (Oct 7, 2009)

*Disabled 2004 8-cyl Phaeton for sale*

So, the dealer says the whole right front suspension assembly has to be changed. VW is agreeing to cover replacement of the other three but it's still going to be a couple thou$and to get the car back into fighting shape. There was also a very small coolant leak that erupted into a big one when the car was started after sitting idle for a few weeks.

Anyway, we can trade it in for a "good deal" on a Touareg but not sure we actually want one of those. 

Anyone interested (or know of someone interested) in purchasing this vehicle as-is?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

You're kidding! You're getting a whole new suspension for a couple of grand! Why on earth would you want to get rid of it? It's $10k's worth of work. And why would you sell a car that's practically worthless when you can spend a couple of grand and have a car that's likely worth at least 10???:screwy:


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## ilanna1 (Oct 7, 2009)

Well, it's around $3600, which includes cooling pump, thermostat, that whole system also. But after that, our back windows still can't roll down because we know the motors are on the way out, and we've already replaced the front 2 (you know how expensive those are). CD player is still broken w CDs stuck in it. There's just the fear that something ELSE will go wrong that's super expensive; that $3500 doesn't even come close to guaranteeing our beloved Phaeton back to us all well and happy. VW seems to be offering around that amount for "trade in allowance" but we'd at least have a new, assured drivable car. But it'll never be my Phaeton. We tried to wait for the new ones but they keep pushing the date back...


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Where are you located?


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## ilanna1 (Oct 7, 2009)

las vegas, NV. Not many PHaetons around here. How would one even go about trying to sell it? Dealership says, unfixed, they won't give cash but will offer trade in allowance. Wondering if repairing and THEN selling would get more cash (ie profit) than the repair cost......but don't know if anyone is buying 04 Phaeton's these days....


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

So they want $3600 to do a complete timing belt job + replace the bad shock and throw in the other 3? That doesn't sound bad from a dealer!

1 rebuilt shock as mentioned will cost you $700ish even is you replace it yourself. A timing belt job if done by yourself would be $500-$600. That still leaves the other 3 shocks.



The window motors are NOT on their way out. They don't fail. It is a stupid little plastic wheel that fails. You can buy a complete regulator for $200ish, or DIY hardware store replace the wheel for <$5. --> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6136594-Repaired-Dennis-s-window-regulator-pulley

Buy a used CD player on Ebay and swap it (cheap and easy)...




> There's just the fear that something ELSE will go wrong that's super expensive



If you are going to live in fear of your car.. DON'T buy a Touareg. Actually.. don't buy any european car. None of them are without issue...and the Pahetons are actually VERY reliable.


Is $3600 +/- really that much to continue driving a Bentley caliper of car? It really doesn't get any better than this...


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

What's the mileage on it?


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## ilanna1 (Oct 7, 2009)

It has about 127K miles on it


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