# D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested



## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

]]http://forums.club4ag.com/topi...33867
http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...08df8

http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03375.JPG
http://www.honda-tech.com/zero...age=8













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## vdubb3dan (Apr 7, 2004)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

This has been reposted tons of times, but still very interesting. I've thought about doing it to my car.


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## RafaGolfBr (Dec 17, 2001)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubb3dan)*

I'll do it on my MKII... it needs a paint job.. I only have $100 hehe








I've read this thing twice... now w the MKII I'll give it a try. 
I'll be using the Marine Interlux Brightside Poly paint. ($58/ 6 quarts shipped. I'll give out the web address form the E-bay express store I bought it from). Marine blue it will be.. heres a quick sktch w the Dubmodder.com help::











_Modified by RafaGolfBr at 2:41 AM 9-19-2006_


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## 95mk3jetta8v (Oct 9, 2002)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

I used this painting method on my motorcycle fairings. I ended up spending 60 bucks because I had to buy an orbital buffer. The process works very well and my results were great. I'm very happy.
- Rick


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

theres 2 kids doing theres now on the link below with pics 
http://www.hondasociety.com/bo...21415



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## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

I just spent 20.00 on a quart of the almond paint a roller and a pan and a pint of black paint...
I am going to try this on a spare hood or fender fisrt.. I want to try to tint the almond with the black so it looks more like a darker tan...


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## puebla (Sep 9, 2003)

*Re: (Pats16vGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pats16vGTI* »_I just spent $20.00 on a quart.....


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (Pats16vGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pats16vGTI* »_I just spent 20.00 on a quart of the almond paint a roller and a pan and a pint of black paint...
I am going to try this on a spare hood or fender fisrt.. I want to try to tint the almond with the black so it looks more like a darker tan... 

I have a feeling it may turn out to a warm grey - I would have chosen a brown color (if available at the store you went to) - to make it a darker tan.....but I would like to see the results of the color


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

I have a daily beater 94 jetta - I think I am going to try the gloss white, since white can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif hide the most imperfections http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

yeah kinda made a greyish color either way i brushed on one coat on an old fender and it came out really well. shiny, smooth, consistent, surprisinly very low orange peel. im sure if it was wetsanded and puffed it would look awesome. also this was only one quick coat..


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## drbobshowmaster (Jun 7, 2005)

has anyone on this forum actually done this?


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## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (drbobshowmaster)*

after I get some rust issues taken care of on my caddy I am going to paint it like this. I am going to thin it and spray it tho. I think that will be alot easier than the roller. and I already have an spray gun.


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## ftillier (Nov 30, 2002)

*Re: (Pats16vGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pats16vGTI* »_I just spent 20.00 on a quart of the almond paint a roller and a pan and a pint of black paint...

Did you get rustoleum, or the Interlux Brightside? Quart of rustoleum should be a lot less than 20, which is why I'm wondering.
- Fab


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## TooDub (Mar 17, 2006)

*Re: (ftillier)*

wanna try it CHEAP & red or dark blue is OK, look here : http://search.express.ebay.com...tosZ1








me, I'm gonna try the blue - can u say "fake windsor"?


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## the sheriff (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: (TooDub)*

interesting thread - I've got a '92 Jeep Cherokee Sport that is abused to all hell that could use something cheap like this.......I think I'll give it a shot, even if it doesn't work it won't look any worse than it already does.


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## drbobshowmaster (Jun 7, 2005)

please let us know the results!


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## jopr175 (May 10, 2004)

*Re: (drbobshowmaster)*

bump to bookmark http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## the sheriff (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: (drbobshowmaster)*

Ipicked up most of the supplies at the depot the other night, sure as ****, it cost about $50 for everything.......
I've still got to get over to Napa for some wetsandpaper......
Any tips on how to wetsand efficiently? I've not got a lot of experience with it.........
I'll take some before, during, and after pics of the entire process for all you guys - not sure when I'm going to be able to start this, but hopefully next week.......


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## TickTack (Feb 27, 2004)

*Re: (the sheriff)*

I've been reading about this and wanna keep an eye on it!


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## whiterabbit90 (Jul 19, 2004)

*Re: (TickTack)*

what paint do you use for this i am thinking about doing this.


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## the sheriff (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: (whiterabbit90)*


_Quote, originally posted by *whiterabbit90* »_what paint do you use for this i am thinking about doing this.

I picked up a gallon of rustoleum professional at the home depot for about $26. From everything I've read that should work just fine. I have yet to start the project cause I'm in the middle of closing on my home so once I'm moved in I'll be getting started and documenting the process.


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

HOLY SIHT I was JUST looking for this!!! THANK YOU!


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## whiterabbit90 (Jul 19, 2004)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (atrujillo1991)*

i think i might go out and try to get this stuff this weekend.....hopefully


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

one question... how in the world do you paint the underside of your hood?


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## vwguy05 (Nov 24, 2004)

dam thats crazy


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## atrujillo1991 (May 24, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

what can I do for flat black? do I need to wetdans at all or will that give it a satin shinbe (wouldn't mind that...)


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## 2002 1.8T Jetta (Jun 28, 2002)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

how is this possible?


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

I know at home depot you can get any of the paints tinted including the rustoleum. Now if i get a color tinted to another color will it still work the same as before or will it change the composite of the paint and not work the same?


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## Auto Pilot (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_I know at home depot you can get any of the paints tinted including the rustoleum. Now if i get a color tinted to another color will it still work the same as before or will it change the composite of the paint and not work the same?









Rustoleum paint is oil-based and it is tinted differently than the latex paints you are talking about. I talked to the lady at homedepot and she said they can tint to some colors but not as well as the water based stuff


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (Auto Pilot)*

Right so what im saying is if you get a rustoleum tinted and you like it, is it still ok to use on the car? As in does the tint alter the makup of the rustoleum enough to make in not work correctly or prematurely fade once its all said and done.


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## NothelleJetta (Oct 10, 2006)

Looks like I'll be doing this over Christmas break, my paint already looks like *******.


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## Jimbow (May 18, 2005)

we need more pics


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

what do you guys think about doing the 6-8 coats or however you need for your satisfaction, and then adding the rustoleeum clear?? will that be of any benefit?


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## RedBeetkeon18z (Jun 18, 2006)

first time seeing a yellow accord.. looking nice man.. i give big respect.. i love doing DIY job too.. save money and the feelin is just different.. especially when someone ask.. Nice paint job.. where u got it from.. Did it myself in my driveway.. people get amaze and give u respect.. im plannin on doing the same.. if u could tell me what i needed.. im me plz.. lookin forward to do my own paint job pretty soon.. thanks


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (RedBeetkeon18z)*

well we started a fender for my rabbit yesterday. it'll probably be a week or so before it's completely finished. i'll post up some pictures and a step by step of what i did when the fender is done. once the fender is done, i'll start working on the whole car... i just sort of want to do a test on a smaller piece first.


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

I started on my fuel door last night. First coat and it already looks nasty http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .


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## the sheriff (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_I started on my fuel door last night. First coat and it already looks nasty http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .

Is nasty a good thing?? Not sure how you mean that? Also,if not so good than work it with more than one coat - look as if 6 coats with wet sanding in between 2 coats is the way to go....


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (the sheriff)*

Ha!! Sorry, i meant nasty as in awesome, i know i have to do like 6 coats to get the desired thickness. I was basically saying that once i layed the first coat it went on really nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## the sheriff (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_Ha!! Sorry, i meant nasty as in awesome, i know i have to do like 6 coats to get the desired thickness. I was basically saying that once i layed the first coat it went on really nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

awesome, can't wait to see some pics!!


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (the sheriff)*

Hell yea, im doing it in "sail blue" Pretty nice color, reminds me of the blue off of a pepsi bottle http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

i went in with 2 coats, sanded and layed down a 3rd coat. tonight i'll be putting down the 4th coat and tomorrow i'll probably be sanding and laying down the 5th coat. luckily i'm doing white on white, so the coverage should be fairly easy.


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## Cubix (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

Interesting thread, I'm actually looking at doing a paint job.
50 bucks huh.
How's the durability on this?
Anyone do a self applied clearcoat over this?


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (Cubix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cubix* »_Interesting thread, I'm actually looking at doing a paint job.
50 bucks huh.
How's the durability on this?
Anyone do a self applied clearcoat over this?

it's rustoleum... how much more durable could it get?! haha! actually, there is a guy that says he painted his car 7 years ago and it still looks new.
with the clear... you probably wouldn't need to. it's enamel paint to it's only a single stage... pretty much identical to what you'd find on the old mk1s or mk2s. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i put down the 4th coat today. i'll be sanding tomorrow and laying down the 5th coat. for anyones reference, it was about 40 degrees out today and i painted. you can basically paint in any weather condition.


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## oneromnala (Dec 11, 2005)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

Bump
Ive read the entire posting its about 80 pages long.....
there has been discussion about using the rustoleum clearcoat, apparently one of the biggest complaints is that the paint has a dull shine. the clearcoat is not available in a large can only on a spray can. 
post the pics


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

http://www.clubcivic.com/board...94055


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## 5ven3 (Dec 26, 2002)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubkid06* »_http://www.clubcivic.com/board...94055


impressive.


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (5ven3)*

What kind of buffers are people using to do the final polish and geting good results?


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

i am about to do this to my 944.i am going to document the whole thing with pictures, so whoever wants to see it for themselves can. everyone wants some pics to see results.


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## erhodub (Dec 24, 2002)

*Re: (bufflars12)*

ive attempted to spray my car with single stage urethane a few times now and i am just having no luck at all and spending way more $$$ than i want to. i just cant picture a smooth finish coming from a roller, but im not getting it from a spray gun either so ill be watching this thread. hope to see some progress from those trying it. what grit are you guys using for each stage of wet sanding?


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## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: (erhodub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *erhodub* »_ive attempted to spray my car with single stage urethane a few times now and i am just having no luck at all and spending way more $$$ than i want to. i just cant picture a smooth finish coming from a roller, but im not getting it from a spray gun either so ill be watching this thread. hope to see some progress from those trying it. what grit are you guys using for each stage of wet sanding?

got any pics of the process?? More info?? I'm thinking of doing my engine bay in a single stage and if it turns out ok moving on to the hole car. I think the prep and wet/color sanding is the key to a good finish so I'm not sure why this method would be better.


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (erhodub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *erhodub* »_ive attempted to spray my car with single stage urethane a few times now and i am just having no luck at all and spending way more $$$ than i want to. i just cant picture a smooth finish coming from a roller, but im not getting it from a spray gun either so ill be watching this thread. hope to see some progress from those trying it. what grit are you guys using for each stage of wet sanding?

in the in between stages of wet sanding you would use a 600 grit. final coat, start with a 600 to get out the orange peel, than progressively get finer until you are using about a 2000 grit. then you'd buff it and wax it. it really is all about the wet sanding in between every other coat. if you do a good job with that, it should come out really smooth and look nice. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## erhodub (Dec 24, 2002)

*Re: (Grabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Grabbit* »_
got any pics of the process?? More info?? I'm thinking of doing my engine bay in a single stage and if it turns out ok moving on to the hole car. I think the prep and wet/color sanding is the key to a good finish so I'm not sure why this method would be better.

well the thing about single stage is you cant really wet sand it when its got metalic flakes or it wil just dull the finish. im just having noluck getting a nice even/full coat without lots of crap in the air faling into it. i am however inexperienced and workig in a very dirtyshop with little ventelation. ive had a few things ive done come out decent but its tough to be consistant. this new idea everyones talking about here seems like it might be a little more withinmy abilities....


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## GTI_Quest (Nov 2, 2001)

*Re: (erhodub)*

Will this work on fiberglass bumpers/side skirts? Can home depot match our original car paint colors?


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (GTI_Quest)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTI_Quest* »_Will this work on fiberglass bumpers/side skirts? Can home depot match our original car paint colors?

it should work on everything. the factory vw bumpers are urethane and it works on that. you just have to prep the surface.


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## GTI_Quest (Nov 2, 2001)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

OK, what do I tell homedepot or lowes in order to match my matchstick red color? You think they can do it? Maybe I'll just drive the car to the counter and say match it!


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: (GTI_Quest)*

i treid to get them to tint the paint at home depot the other day and they said they couldnt do it anymore and that they no longer have the machines to tint oil based paints becuase most paints now are water based..i think he was fulll of it tho and i am kind apissed off LOL


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (GTI_Quest)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTI_Quest* »_OK, what do I tell homedepot or lowes in order to match my matchstick red color? You think they can do it? Maybe I'll just drive the car to the counter and say match it!









EVEN IF YOU WERE TO FIND A COLOR MATCH TO MATCHSTICK RED IT WOULDN'T REALLY MATTER. THE FINISHED LOOK WOULD BE DIFFERENT. YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT A SINGLE STAGE ENAMEL PAINT VS. A MULTI STAGE WITH A CLEAR COAT. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS... I'M AT WORK AND I GOT HALF WAY THROUGH THE MESSAGE BEFORE I REALIZED.


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## GTI_Quest (Nov 2, 2001)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

I have to paint my new bumpers only, so this $50 method wont work for me. I guess. Any one have any suggestions? Its a cheap fiberglass bumper. Probably crack in couple months so I don't want to spend too much money on paint job.
Oooppss, don't mean to hijack thread.


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (GTI_Quest)*

a good body shop will probably paint the whole body kit for around $200-500.


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (bufflars12)*

if you check your local hardware store (as opposed to the biggies like HD or Lowes) they may be able to color match, or at least mix enamel paints. My local hardware store carries Benjamin Moore paints and can mix whatever color I want (and can color match). Keep in mind BM paint and the mixing process will cost about $15-20/quart; about twice as much as one quart of rust-oleum. The other advantage to going with BM (or equal) paint, is that most places that carry it will have an entire library of color chips. You can grab all the red chips (or whatever color), take them to your car and try to get something close.


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## GTI_Quest (Nov 2, 2001)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Great advice. I have an Aboff's close by ..... will see about this color matching. I'm still cheap but a little extra cost for right color is worth it, IMO. Now if it adds up to a body shop price then I'll re-think.


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: (GTI_Quest)*

ive done all the prep work and ive put my first coat on today.the body workprep came out preety good considering. the first coat looks pretty good.it is going to take like around 6 coats i beleieve. i have pics and i will post them sometime


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: (bufflars12)*

3rd coat done.looks good


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## erhodub (Dec 24, 2002)

*Re: (bufflars12)*

show pic sof your progress!!!!!!!


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

has anyone taken this $50 paint job to the next level? meaning, if you already have the equipment and a place to spray; used the rust-oleum or marine paint, thinned it out and shot the car or panels? results any better or worse?


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## TommyC (Sep 14, 2002)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

I am in the middle of doing this to my project rabbit, but I'm spraying it on with a devilbiss gun.
I'm priming it first with high build 2k and sanding with 200 then respraying primer and sanding with 500.
Then I'm spraying the rustoleum on with the same gun. I'm using a 1.5 tip and mixing 1:1 rustoleum:mineral spirits.
Its turning out great. I haven't even needed to sand after it is sprayed. I will buff it once I'm done with the whole car and I'm sure it will look good.
The only down side I see right now is that the paint takes a really long time to dry. I have to wait 8+ hours before I move any of the panels or they'll smudge and pick up finger prints.
I hope that helps. I'll make sure to post some pics once I make more progress.


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## g60vwr (Apr 9, 2000)

*Re: (TommyC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TommyC* »_I am in the middle of doing this to my project rabbit, but I'm spraying it on with a devilbiss gun.
I'm priming it first with high build 2k and sanding with 200 then respraying primer and sanding with 500.
Then I'm spraying the rustoleum on with the same gun. I'm using a 1.5 tip and mixing 1:1 rustoleum:mineral spirits.
Its turning out great. I haven't even needed to sand after it is sprayed. I will buff it once I'm done with the whole car and I'm sure it will look good.
The only down side I see right now is that the paint takes a really long time to dry. I have to wait 8+ hours before I move any of the panels or they'll smudge and pick up finger prints.
I hope that helps. I'll make sure to post some pics once I make more progress.

If your going through the work to prep it properly and your using a 2k primer and a paint gun - why are you cheaping out on the paint? Your 75% of the way to a proper, quality finish


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## TommyC (Sep 14, 2002)

*Re: (g60vwr)*

because it looks great and it cheap


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## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: (TommyC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TommyC* »_I am in the middle of doing this to my project rabbit, but I'm spraying it on with a devilbiss gun.
I'm priming it first with high build 2k and sanding with 200 then respraying primer and sanding with 500.
Then I'm spraying the rustoleum on with the same gun. I'm using a 1.5 tip and mixing 1:1 rustoleum:mineral spirits.
Its turning out great. I haven't even needed to sand after it is sprayed. I will buff it once I'm done with the whole car and I'm sure it will look good.
The only down side I see right now is that the paint takes a really long time to dry. I have to wait 8+ hours before I move any of the panels or they'll smudge and pick up finger prints.
I hope that helps. I'll make sure to post some pics once I make more progress.

I would kill to use the equipment your using, I just don't understand the paint choice. I mean for a couple bucks more use some cheap auto paint like so...
http://www.paintforcars.com/ac....html


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## zideman (Oct 23, 2004)

Ive read a lot of these threads and this seems like an option for those of us who just don't have the ioncome to go nuts a drop a G or more on a paint job. hell you could even get a body shop to do the prep work for probably cheap if your car ain't that messed up. In my case i would have to becasue the whole rear quarter panel is jammed in from a T-bone accident previously, but I m seriuosly considering this whenI can get like 3-4 days off of my full time job.


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (zideman)*

it'll take you more than 3-4 days. you have to do 6-8 coats and takes almost an entire day for each coat to dry. add in all the wet-sanding and you're talking about a good couple of weeks worth of nights and weekends.


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_it'll take you more than 3-4 days. you have to do 6-8 coats and takes almost an entire day for each coat to dry. add in all the wet-sanding and you're talking about a good couple of weeks worth of nights and weekends.

keep in mind though - there are other alternatives to the rust-oleum paint, ie: marine paint. The marine paint covers in fewer coats (2-3 coats) and does a pretty good job of leveling itself - which means less wet-sanding... although still a very good idea to wet sand in between every coat to get the ultimate finish. I believe the dry time with marine paint is a bit shorter as well. <--- speaking from absolutely no experience $50 paint experience, but I've been following all of these $50 paint threads on many forums because we are very close to doing it to our track'rado.


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

where do you get marine paint? and is it the same 50/50 mix with mineral spirits?


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_where do you get marine paint? and is it the same 50/50 mix with mineral spirits?

do a search for something along the lines of: Interlux Brightside Polyurethane Boat Paint - or - just interlux brightside. Its out there and can be bought in quarts/gallons.
My understanding (assuming we are talking roller application here) is that you don't need/want to thin the paint - it'll cover in less coats and does a better job of leveling itself than rust-oleum does.
<edit> BTW, dry time with the interlux is approx. 2-3hrs depending on air temp.
here's a link with more info on the interlux: http://www.jamestowndistributo...Black


_Modified by audisnapr at 5:05 PM 12-13-2006_


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## erhodub (Dec 24, 2002)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

what are you guys using to polish/buff after final wet sanding?


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (erhodub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *erhodub* »_what are you guys using to polish/buff after final wet sanding?

orbital buffer. TRUEBELIEVER has been asking around trying to find out what is a good buffer but no one has responded to the question.


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## efrum (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

i have just finished the first coat on my rabbit. and i got the mixture down pat.
they say "just a little thicker then water" but i am using a "flat" paint and went about the thickness of 1% milk.
tip: do not soak the roller in paint. and thin coats are the best.
i will be posting more pics up when im finished.
















and the hood is not painted because im checkering it.


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## Dougyfresh89 (Sep 15, 2006)

I was the original poster of this topic on my other name that i was banned from. Thanks for getting it going again though. Keep the pics coming.


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## efrum (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Dougyfresh89)*

pics as promised..
this is 2nd coat no wetsand... im wetsanding tonight..
because its flat it only needs to be wetsanded to maintain an even smooth finish.
not bad for mixing two colours and making one i actually like
































well flame away if you guys like shiny! but its getting all semi-gloss black bbs rm's with 2 inch lips semi-gloss black. only thing shiny are the lips bolts. and spiked centercap. checkered hood, and dumped.


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (efrum)*

I have gone around and around with this subject in the past - but I guess if you really feel like 800 hours of your time is worth saving the money, go for it! I still want to see a pic of a car that's been done for 2+ years with this stuff on it.


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (Shifty)*

either.
_Quote, originally posted by *Shifty* »_I have gone around and around with this subject in the past - but I guess if you really feel like 800 hours of your time is worth saving the money, go for it! I still want to see a pic of a car that's been done for 2+ years with this stuff on it.









the orange charger is 7 years old. the guy claims the paint looks as good as the day he painted it. it's no a full time garage kept car.


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

this is true. Plus i think alot of people are forgetting that this is rustoleum. Basically bombproof if put on well and will basically stick to wet dog poop if need be. Not that ive tried to paint poop or anything like that


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

anyone take the leap of faith on this method recently? my buddy and I are doing a dedicated track rado and already bought the marine paint and are doing the body work now. Should be doing some test pieces here in the near future.
Just wondering what happened to all those who were doing this.


----------



## the sheriff (Oct 6, 2005)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

Well, I've got a Jeep I'll be doing this too, I am waiting till spring/summer as I've recently bought a house, at least I've got more space to do it now though!!


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

i tried it out on a fender. looks good. i only got about half way through the process though because i'm planning on shaving the moulding strips out.


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## VRSICKSCITY (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

I did my car about a year ago... Its in my garage over the winter getting prepped for a new color. Just got sick of the red and wanna be a little more different...

































http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I will post some new pics once my car is done the new color... Hope you enjoy and to anyone going to waterfest this year... Remember my user name, my euro plate is VR-SICKS. You will all be in for a big surprise







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (VRSICKSCITY)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRSICKSCITY* »_I did my car about a year ago... Its in my garage over the winter getting prepped for a new color. Just got sick of the red and wanna be a little more different...
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I will post some new pics once my car is done the new color... Hope you enjoy and to anyone going to waterfest this year... Remember my user name, my euro plate is VR-SICKS. You will all be in for a big surprise







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

so the pics you show above are of the car painted with the roller paint method correct? What paint did you use? and now you wanna go a different direction as far as color goes? Are you gonna do another roll-on paint job? Would it be fair to say you are happy with the results? Did you come across any problems? Any tips or tricks you'd care to share? Sorry, about all the questions - just interested in as much info as possible before we embark on this process.


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## VRSICKSCITY (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

I actually did not roll the whole vehicle... I rolled just the roof and the hood. The rest of the car was done with cans... As the larger areas as far as painting are harder to become even. What I did was get spray cans of the color shown. cost about $70 total. got a peice of scrap metal and sprayed it with the same amount of coats that I did the car. Brought the piece of painted scrap to home depot and they scan it on there computer to color match. Bought a pint of the custom color match the color I had in the cans for around $16... Rolled the hood and roof then sanded with 320 grit paper and then the whole car with scuff pads. Quick buff after and the rest is history. I would recomend doing this to anyone. By far the best way to get a great paint job with minimal money. As far as the new color im doing, will be done with a prof. spray can and im mixing a custom color with metalic flake, but it will still be flat. Only due to someone offering there free service of painting my car. Otherwise I would use this method again and highly refer it to anyone looking for a cheap way to bring your car back to looking new. Just think... Someone scratches your car, you get a dent... Anying, with flat paint there is no bring it to the body shop or anything, Bondo sand and repaint. I love my car, cant wait to see the new color on it and share with everyone at this upcomming waterfest http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (VRSICKSCITY)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRSICKSCITY* »_great paint job with minimal money.
Someone scratches your car, you get a dent... Anying, with flat paint there is no bring it to the body shop or anything, Bondo sand and repaint. I love my car, cant wait to see the new color on it and share with everyone at this upcomming waterfest http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

cool, I appreciate the info. The two points you made above are what interests me most about this method. Since we are doing this to a track car, which we all know can take a beating, this method should make for easy touch up and repairs. I'll be sure and post some of my results. We are close.


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## VRSICKSCITY (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_
cool, I appreciate the info. The two points you made above are what interests me most about this method. Since we are doing this to a track car, which we all know can take a beating, this method should make for easy touch up and repairs. I'll be sure and post some of my results. We are close.

I will do the same and post pics if the thread is still open, Im sure it will be. If you have any questions, let me know http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 1.9..16vTurbo (Jan 25, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

acrilyc - enamel is old technology and not as durable as is stated. Also, if you ever decide to get it painted properly, proffesionaly the acrilyc does need to be removed.


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (1.9..16vTurbo)*

Whoa this thread is back on page one...








At any rate, audisnapr is spot-on... if you ever decide to paint the car properly, you really can't just paint over the stuff.


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: (Shifty)*

The photos look ok, but realistically, you can't see any detail - at all...the quality of the photos + image compression prevents that.
There is no way that a one-part enamel is going to be any where nearly as durable as a multi-part urethane.
These are just "10 foot" paint jobs that will disappoint anyone looking for pure quality and durability.
For a beater that just needs a fresh look, I'm sure it's great - but in that case, I'd save my time and go to one of those discount paint shops that cost $300


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## ReverendHorton (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: (kevwithoutacorrado)*

This thread is for people that would rather use the $300 to do it themselves and make sure they do a better job than a quickie rip off place like you are suggesting


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

yeah man - no one here is trying to fool anyone. no one here has a goal to re-invent the wheel. we are just here exploring an alternative method to the POS paint job those rip off places produce. Sure, once in a while you can get a cheapie paint job for 300 that will stick. And sure, once in a while they paint inside the lines. But for $50-100 and some love for your car, you can achieve a half-way decent paint job for your DD, your beater, or even something you are more proud of. Beyond knowing you are doing it right, you can be a bit creative with colors, lines, designs, etc - none of which you would EVER get for $300 at maco.
We all appreciate everyone's point of view, but there's no need to post in a thread to knock down creativity unless you have something constructive (not destructive) to add. Not everyone has the $300 to spend on looks when its most often better spend on maintenance or repairs. $50 might be something we are able to afford to give us that needed re-respect for our beaters.


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## kevwithoutacorrado (Jun 9, 2000)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

Just being realistic - even if your on the cheap. Don't get your hopes too high just by seeing these photos is what I'm saying.
Heck, I've got two primer spots on my hood right now too


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (ReverendHorton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ReverendHorton* »_This thread is for people that would rather use the $300 to do it themselves and make sure they do a better job than a quickie rip off place like you are suggesting

the problem being, with proper prep work (by said people) and going to a good $300 shop (remember they are not all the same). The $300 job WILL look better, also as someone stated above the $300 job can be scuffed down in the future and sprayed over.
Just REALLY interested to see if anyone has attempted to sand their car back down after applying a gallon of rusto to the surface??? Not easy, and it has to be fully removed before the "next" paint job.

As to the guy with the flat red MK3 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . Flat and satin paints are CAKE to match when you get a scratch or do some body work. The only problem with a flat paint is that there is NO CLEAR, so the paint is pourus (yeah I can't spell) and will actually soak up water, which in turn can lead to rust. The one advantage I like about the satin over flat is the low-sheen clear in it repels water.


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oldskoolvwlover v9.0* »_
the problem being, with proper prep work (by said people) and going to a good $300 shop (remember they are not all the same). The $300 job WILL look better, also as someone stated above the $300 job can be scuffed down in the future and sprayed over.


maybe I just dont have any good luck -- but Ive havent seen a good paint job from a shop doing them for 300 dollars -- now they do look pretty good right after being finished -- but Ive seen Maaco jobs go bad in just a year.......my car is a good example (previous owner had a door resprayed by maaco) and the clear can be picked off with a finger nail. It looked ok when I first bought it but the clear is going bad horribly fast.
I also saw a neon around town where the car was painted a single stage yellow and it already peeling off to the color below just 2 years later. I know that its all in the prep work and so on - but prep work costs money....more than 300 bucks........unless theres alot of shops I dont know about....
Besides -- regardless of the results -- its cool to tell people you painted your car


_Modified by dhutchvento at 2:32 PM 3-3-2007_


----------



## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

a couple things with that.... maaco's are franchises, so some will be better than others. also a lot of that is in the paint (you are by no means buying good paint when you buy rusto either). prep work does cost money, as I said you can cut that down if you perform the prep yourself (which you would be doing anyways with the DIY idea). 
I am not defending the cheap $300 job or the DIY. I have sprayed my own car, in my garage, with my own prep (all with the help of a friend). Regardless of where you go and what you do, you get what you pay for. I do think a lot of people think the $50 paint job is just gonna look good, and be the same as any other paint job. The properties of what you are doing are not the same so you don't necessarily get the same results. Also time is money, and you have to decide how much time you want to spend rolling on and sanding down a gallon of paint on your car to still get what would be a 5-10 foot paint job. 
My only point is to push anyone willing to do the work on their car to do some research. Also to effectively do this you have to be willing to be without a car for a while, or the paint job will not come out as well (or you will be spending more money and time on sand paper and paint). If you can find a decent Maaco/Schieb/etc. in your area that will do an okay job spraying paint. You supply paint, and do some prep work the paint job will come out 1000 times better and you won't have to spend a week doing it.
I just wish people would spend more time looking into EVERYTHING before they decide to roll the paint onto their car, as said before in this thread as well...... pictures on the internet are not the same as seeing a car in person, and as you said about the cheap Maaco job, I am sure the roller cars look a lot better in person the first day then they do a year or 2 later.


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

I respect everyone's point of views, but it's pretty clear that most of these opinions are based on absolutely no experience, either personally or even a friend or friend of a friend.
we will be doing the roller method on the body of our track car and chose this method for a couple of reasons
1. the expense - we want something cheap because we don't want to baby the car on the track nor do we want to spend the time applying blue tape on the bumper just to protect it.
2. ease of touch up since I'm sure the car will get pretty beat on the track
3. we are doing a 3-tone paint job and no way we'd even get that from maco or equal
BTW, we aren't using rust-oleum. we are using a poly marine paint that is far superior in its technology than a standard can of rust-oleum enamel. Like I said in my earlier post, we have no misconceptions of this method vs. a standard spray, but we've decided this is the best for us.


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## mk3gti-usa (Jun 26, 2006)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

i am totally into doing this!!! sounds like a good way to get a halfway decent (which is about 18 times better than what i have now







) paint job for not alot of money. i dont mind spending the time, it is the idea of handing my car and the $3000 i was quoted from 3 different places (yes, my car is in that bad of shape. and that was without changing the color) over and feeling helpless!!
I am interested in how the boat paint works. a read a little about it in the link listed above and it sounds like a much better paint than the rustolum. if anyone uses the boat paint, please let me know how it come out!!


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## turbomkII (Jul 25, 2005)

can you get these paints in the us i only see it on the canadian rustolem site.


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_I respect everyone's point of views, but it's pretty clear that most of these opinions are based on absolutely no experience, either personally or even a friend or friend of a friend.
we will be doing the roller method on the body of our track car and chose this method for a couple of reasons
1. the expense - we want something cheap because we don't want to baby the car on the track nor do we want to spend the time applying blue tape on the bumper just to protect it.
2. ease of touch up since I'm sure the car will get pretty beat on the track
3. we are doing a 3-tone paint job and no way we'd even get that from maco or equal
BTW, we aren't using rust-oleum. we are using a poly marine paint that is far superior in its technology than a standard can of rust-oleum enamel. Like I said in my earlier post, we have no misconceptions of this method vs. a standard spray, but we've decided this is the best for us.

I have experience and for the most part you are right this will be great for what YOU are doing. Just saying most people don't look into the big picture. My only thought would be for someone with what I am guessing is access to an air compressor a cheap HVLP gun and some paint would still probably be easier to touch up when needed.
Do what you do, not judging or saying it's wrong. Just saying for a job that needs to be cheap and easy touch up a spray job with some single stage paint will be a lot easier in the long run when needing touch ups. Also cool thing about the spray method, very few supplies to buy and replace. When using a roller you have a few more items you will need to buy every time you want to touch up.


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*

my bumpers happen to be painted in rusto pro from a spray bomb can - it was a last ditch effort since I didnt want a red rear bumper and a primer front bumper..... The black matched really well and the paint from a can levels really well BUT:
24 hours after painting - the paint is still gummy soft and feels alot like latex or rubber - where you cant leave your fingerprint - but you can dig it off with a fingernail....
48 hours after painting - still a little rubbery but is hard enough to be handled without really damaging it.........
72 hours later -- I still would not want to consider wetsanding and buffing yet...since it will haze horribly since the paint still seems soft
now this is straight out of a spray can.......im sure that rusto rolled on that was thinned with acetone will harden a bit faster......
- I actually give rusto a thumbs up since I have used it on lawn tractors and other outdoor items that survive the elements.....for the professional grade stuff.....plus its pretty darn good for a product coming off a shelf at a local hardware store......may not compete with auto paints but still pretty good 
- as far as rolling rusto on -- man I say good luck since you are looking at long nights of rolling paint - waiting to dry - wetsanding - and doing it another 7 times.......
- my bumpers have been painted in rusto pro for a year now and and even survived last months horrible snow storm up north -- I railed a snow bank the day of the storm and cracked my vr lip to pieces -- but the paint didnt even chip on the bumper -- and I even spend the few days later pulling wads of ice out of my rad support and lower bumper vents -- still didnt scratch the paint.......I guess Ill take pics later if I get the chance........


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

Too bad they don't make the satin black in Professional or I would be all over it. Like you said, I love the rusto paint, especially when reduced and sprayed from a gun. I have had good luck with mine but would love to use the professional only because I am guessing the adhesion promoters and coloring they use is of a slightly higher grade in the pro paint.
Rattle cans work, only problem I have found is that by the time you do a whole car, you were better off buying a gun and buying by the quart or gallon.
Just wondering, what were the temps like when you painted the bumper?? Thinking either temp or humidity might have played a part in your issues. When we did my car last year it finished nicely but we had pretty much perfect conditions (memorial day weekend), not to hot or humid and not cold at all.


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*

they do -- that is what I used -- esp its semi-gloss black -- a lil more velvety in color rather than a sandpaper or chaulkboardlike flat or satin.....
buy a can and try it -- you may like it......


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Oldskoolvwlover v9.0* »_Just wondering, what were the temps like when you painted the bumper?? Thinking either temp or humidity might have played a part in your issues. When we did my car last year it finished nicely but we had pretty much perfect conditions (memorial day weekend), not to hot or humid and not cold at all. 

it was actually in my attic in the middle of winter -- low humidity and maybe 65-68 degrees........only problem was taming the dusk to make sure it didnt get into the paint.....as far its it taking forever to cure -- i didnt care as long as it had enough time to self-level.......and not orange peel or look blotchy like typical spray can work


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## dhutchvento (May 8, 2006)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*

well heres a few pics of my rattle can job.....this is semi-gloss rustoleum professional -- i decided on semi-gloss hoping it would look like black primer but not be porous like primer -- and actually is shinier than I expected -- im thinking about trying the black gloss as a test.....








a pre damage shot - ignore the bug splats on the bumper - they arent chips








a rear bumper shot -- sorry its so dirty....I just moved from PA to NC...and now I have the ugliest car in the lot......at least the dirtiest....








heres where I hit a chunk of ice about the size of a small basketball... it busted the lip bad but the paint actually didnt even chip -- I was driving in snow that was about to come over my hood that day.....








here is a fender I used the same paint on -- now the fender didnt turn out so great since its aftermarket and I think the primer they used sucked.....since there was dust and hair in the primer....








as you can see Ive grown accustomed to using rustoleum....








the furniture is free actually from different people......
can count - 1 can for the fender, 1.5 for the front bumper, almost 2 for the rear.......


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dhutchvento* »_
- as far as rolling rusto on -- man I say good luck since you are looking at long nights of rolling paint - waiting to dry - wetsanding - and doing it another 7 times........

oh yeah, forget to mention in my recent post, although I mentioned it on page 1...
4. marine paint dries to the touch in 2-3 hours
5. flashes in 1 hour
6. can be used in much colder temps, ie: 50* F


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## Oldskoolvwlover v9.0 (Aug 4, 2004)

*Re: (dhutchvento)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dhutchvento* »_they do -- that is what I used -- esp its semi-gloss black -- a lil more velvety in color rather than a sandpaper or chaulkboardlike flat or satin.....
buy a can and try it -- you may like it......

nice I'll have to check next time I am at the depot.... was checking this morning and it wasn't listed on their site as a color choice.
I need to respray my front bumper and I am outta paint, if I can find the professional local I will buy a damn gallon of it.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
As to your other pics, that is awesome. I love rustoleum, **** I painted a 6 year old car with it







. When we have room for a dining room table (if ever) I plan on doing the same deal.... we have a fooseball table in the dining room area right now, it's much more fun that a table to eat at.


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## BonnyDub2.0 (Oct 15, 2004)

Well, I'm trying it out. check the progress in my build thread when you have time :-D
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3133484


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## RaraK69 (Jan 16, 2001)

*Re: (BonnyDub2.0)*

just started ths on my project civic hatch. its turning out great. i went out and got a cheapy spray gun at a local place for $30 instead of running that paint through the good one.
I used 3/5 paint/MS mixture to run through the gun. lays down pretty nice, very little orangepeel on my 3rd coat with no sanding yet


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## knowtwodrugs (Aug 21, 2005)

*Re: (RedBeetkeon18z)*

this requires no clear coat? it comes out that shiny?
edit: I mean the post here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...08df8 
You just paint/sand/paint/sand/buff/wax and it's good to go?


_Modified by knowtwodrugs at 7:24 PM 4-8-2007_


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (knowtwodrugs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *knowtwodrugs* »_this requires no clear coat? it comes out that shiny?
edit: I mean the post here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...08df8 
You just paint/sand/paint/sand/buff/wax and it's good to go?

_Modified by knowtwodrugs at 7:24 PM 4-8-2007_

if you are asking about the process of single stage paint, the answer is yes. Single stage paint is a high gloss base coat that does not need a clear coat. It's the way many of the VW's came from the factory. Most elect to do a two-stage + paint job when they respray their cars because the clear coats ensures the protection of the base color coat.
For those who want to do a simple DIY $50 paint job, the only real way to do it is with a single-stage process.
The selection of paint will determine how much sanding you do. I've mentioned earlier in this thread that the marine enamel paint has very good leveling characteristics and will require fewer coats of paint. From my research, if you use the marine paint, you should be able to get away with two (2) coats to cover, but most opt to do the 3rd coat. Marine paint process would be:
1st coat - 2nd coat - sand - 3rd coat - sand - buff - wax.
From what I understand, sanding after the 2nd coat is not absolutely necessary, but is recommended. You could potentially get away with only sanding after the 3rd coat.
Although I have not done this "yet", the rado we are building up as a track car is very close to receiving its first coats of marine paint on the panels via rollers. We already sprayed the engine bay with marine paint (we added a flattening agent to give it a "satin" finish) and it came out just as expected. As soon as we get the body work done, we'll be rolling on an un-flattened version of the same red. Here's the link to our build - painting starts on page 4
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=4
as soon as I get some painted panel results, I'll post in here as well as the build thread. Should have something in the next month or two.
here's a pic of the finished bay. Interlux Brightside marine enamel/polyurethane paint w/ flattening agent.


















_Modified by audisnapr at 12:26 PM 4-9-2007_


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## 92-8valver (Oct 9, 2003)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_

here's a pic of the finished bay. Interlux Brightside marine enamel/polyurethane paint w/ flattening agent.

















_Modified by audisnapr at 12:26 PM 4-9-2007_

what did you use for a flattening agent?
cheers
jon


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## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

If you guys want gloss and a real autopaint, get some cheap single stage acrylic enamel or even some Polyurethane and a cheap HVLP gun off ebay.
http://www.autocolordirect.com/ 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
The acrylic enamel can be rolled on or reduced and then sprayed on, check the data sheet (pdf file)


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (92-8valver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *92-8valver* »_
what did you use for a flattening agent?
cheers
jon

Interlux makes a flattening agent specifically for their 1-part polyurethane enamel. Depending on your desired results, you can mix it at pretty much any ratio. The pics I show are @ 2:1. Two parts flattening agent, one part color. They recommend that you do the first couple coats un-flattened and then do your final coats flattened. The flattening agent is a clear paint like liquid, so when mixed it "thins" out the color and makes it a bit more transparent. It helps to have a solid base coat before you apply it.
On another note, I rolled the first two coats of paint on the driver's side fender. Let me just say, that I am very impressed with the leveling characteristics of this paint. If one coat had been enough, the first coat leveled itself out so nicely, I could have called it done and buffed it. Unfortunately, one coat is not sufficient and as I applied a second coat, imperfections started to show, ie: particles from the foam roller, tiny air bubbles, etc. Some areas look like glass, others have those tiny little elements in the paint that will need to be sanded. Next step is to wet-sand sand the second coat and move onto the 3rd coat. I'll keep you guys post.


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (Oldskoolvwlover v9.0)*

and up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I love this thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

hey guys
i started this project in october, but then it got cold so i stopped. what i first did was prepped the whole car.i sanded down using 100 grit, then 150, 300, 600....cleaned the whole car masked it up, the obvious steps.did my bodywork then rolled 4 coats of black thinned by mineral spirits. i did not use a primer at all.between each coat i waited about 2 days and wetsanded.
it was looking pretty good.i thought to myself how would this look sprayed, so i went to sears and bout a cheap 100dollar paint sprayer. put the thinned paint in the sprayer and resprayed the whole car...
loooks good. i have no experience with painting but i did have a little experience with bondo/bodywork.
i just now have to respray the driver side door because my father accidently put a big scratch in it. check it out...........took me about a month and a half to do so far.(total time without breaks)


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## bufflars12 (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: (bufflars12)*


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## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

I am currently doing my 96 golf... i'll post up pics when i'm done...


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## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

alright guys so i'm in need of some guidance from those who have already done this or are at least one the second or third step. i started this project with interlux brightside paint on a POS hood. all is going well & the paint does an amazing job at leveling.
problem is dust. apparently there is a huge amount in my garage.... so what have you guys been doing to get rid of any possibility. is this what the wet sand is meant to get rid of? mind you this is only after the first coat & i'm rolling the entire paint job, that i know of thus far.
here are some sorts of it so far. i'm gonna miss the windsor blue but it's too difficult to find a hood with the same paintjob anyway
















any guidance would be great thanks guys


_Modified by propaganda54 at 12:04 PM 5-18-2007_


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

yes - dust/bugs/lint, etc will be your biggest challenge in a DIY garage project like this. Sadly the only way to avoid this mess is to seal up the area you are in, but its just not worth the effort because you will still see dust and other crappy things land in your fresh paint.
Your only real solution is to wet sand. You can go with 400grt between coats; this well help level any imperfections, dust, etc out of the paint. sand lightly though, you don't want to knock down too much paint.
once you are happy with the coverage from 2 or 3 coats, you have a couple options to remove the final dust specs. You can sand with 800grt first to help level the dust, but then you'll have to sand again with 1500, then 2000 to take out all the scratches you just made with 800. after that, buff and you should be golden.
the other option is to skip the 800 and go straight to the 2000. 2000 will help level some of the smaller dust but won't do so well on the bigger chunks, in which case you'll just have to live with it. after the 2000, buff as mentioned before.
interlux rocks huh. that stuff levels so nicely if you do good prep work.


_Modified by audisnapr at 12:25 PM 5-18-2007_


----------



## BonnyDub2.0 (Oct 15, 2004)

also, after the paint settles...try to prop the hood against something. since it flash dries in about 15 minutes...you don't have to worry about having any runs at all. also, as long as there is no breeze in the garage..the area the dust has to fall on is significantly less.


----------



## BonnyDub2.0 (Oct 15, 2004)

p.s. 
here is where i'm at on my roll job. :-D


----------



## Screwed G60 (Dec 12, 2005)

*Re: (BonnyDub2.0)*

I am debating this more and more every day...might have to take over my buddies garage for a couple of weeks and crank through this. I have seen pics of people doing this outside...is this a bad idea (bugs, dust, wind, etc) or can in be managed? 







for all of you that have taken the steps so far!!!


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (Screwed G60)*

heh from my little experience thus far, wind is not your friend


----------



## BonnyDub2.0 (Oct 15, 2004)

you guys just need to clean your damned garages....a little vacuuming goes a long way :-D


----------



## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: (BonnyDub2.0)*

a little trick to keep dust down is to wet the floor with a bucket of water. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Screwed G60 (Dec 12, 2005)

*Re: (Grabbit)*

Guess I will be grabbing a garage....this wil have to wait till after the AutoX season though








Do any of you have experience with this paint?
http://www.autocolordirect.com/ 
I really like a number of the colors but would like to know if you can still use a roller for this? It looks to be the same as the non-marine Rustoleum?


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (Screwed G60)*

Started my $50 paint job this evening... Experimenting on an old sunroof first, but I hope to start the real thing by the end of the week








"Smoke Grey" (the Rustoleum variety)


----------



## Veedubboy75 (Feb 13, 2004)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*

LOL in a parking lot?!?!?!

_Quote, originally posted by *vdubkid06* »_theres 2 kids doing theres now on the link below with pics 
http://www.hondasociety.com/bo...21415




[/QUOTE]


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (Veedubboy75)*

we have found a SERIOUS issue with this paint method!! brake parts cleaner strips the paint RIGHT OFF! i suggest everyone do a test before going forward with this, especially if you use brakes clean for anything in your garage


----------



## ZyRott89 (Apr 22, 2005)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_we have found a SERIOUS issue with this paint method!! brake parts cleaner strips the paint RIGHT OFF! i suggest everyone do a test before going forward with this, especially if you use brakes clean for anything in your garage









Well It seems you have found a solution to stripping the paint in the future for a "real" paintjob. well done padawan.


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MyCarIsRed* »_we have found a SERIOUS issue with this paint method!! brake parts cleaner strips the paint RIGHT OFF! i suggest everyone do a test before going forward with this, especially if you use brakes clean for anything in your garage









are you referring to Rust-Oleum or another roll-on paint such as Interlux?
I guess the only thing I can say is, at least you can simply touch it up by rolling on more paint


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

we had rustoleum paint. it came off without even wiping... it was actually a pretty interesting looking chemical reaction. i probably have cancer from staring at it from 3 inches away, but cool none the less.








i don't know what would happen with interlux, i've never used it.


----------



## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

Here is my coupe. I used rustoleum flat brown thinned it with mineral spritis and sprayed it with the crappiest paint gun ever made. I also did zero surface preperations, didnt even clean the car before hand... It came out pretty okay, some dirt in it here and there, but hey its one color.
























before sorta:










_Modified by Pats16vGTI at 7:33 PM 5-21-2007_


----------



## ZyRott89 (Apr 22, 2005)

HAve most of you guys left the door jams and engine bay the stock color?


----------



## ZyRott89 (Apr 22, 2005)

So I was at homedepot, and I only saw the painters choice and the Oil Base Rustoleum, I could seem to find the acrylic laytex? What exatcly am i looking for? OIL,Latex, Acrylic!!?


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (ZyRott89)*

Oil.


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (EuroVeeDub)*

I have a little bad news for anyone on here doing this rustoleum gig. 
I was pretty stoked to do this as well so i started with a gas door and fender on my jetta. Well while cleaning some parts the other night some brakeleen sprayed over onto the fender i had done months ago.
Well i didnt think much of it but i looked over after a few minutes to find that the paint blistered all over really bad from the brakeleen.
Now, brakeleen obviously isnt good for any paint but im sure whenever any of you people out there have sprayed some on your car you dont anticipate the paint coming off.
So at this point im now going to clean my garage out and do the paint the right way. Im mad too because i had bought a color called "sail blue" and it was pretty sweet.


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_I have a little bad news for anyone on here doing this rustoleum gig. 
I was pretty stoked to do this as well so i started with a gas door and fender on my jetta. Well while cleaning some parts the other night some brakeleen sprayed over onto the fender i had done months ago.
Well i didnt think much of it but i looked over after a few minutes to find that the paint blistered all over really bad from the brakeleen.


I dont get why this is bad news?
It's a $50 paint job...and oil based enamel, why on earth would anyone be suprised that brakekleen would take it off? I mean...thats what it does...cleans oil based crap.LOL
As long as it doesnt wash off in the rain, I think $50 is an effin deal and a half. (which is why I am painting the gti as we speak)


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (Pats16vGTI)*

what are all you guys using to sand down then buff your paint? how are you sanding it anyway. i know wet sand but the idea of letting the entire weight of a sander lay on the car seems like a horrid idea


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

Sand paper, then wet sand paper for the higher grits...get a block, if you use your hand it'll never come out even.


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (propaganda54)*


_Quote, originally posted by *propaganda54* »_what are all you guys using to sand down then buff your paint? how are you sanding it anyway. i know wet sand but the idea of letting the entire weight of a sander lay on the car seems like a horrid idea

for "final" sanding you should NOT be using a power tool. You should be sanding by hand with a sanding block or sponge. If the paint is really wavy, then def with a sanding block to help level out the paint. Remember the goal with wet sanding after paint is to level out any imperfections so you don't want to go crazy or you'll end up sanding through the paint.
Normally on a 2-stage paint job you have a lot of clear coat to work with before you'll sand through to the color. Here, with a single stage paint job, you have less paint. Sand too much and you'll end up seeing primer or your old paint underneath.
Check any auto parts store by the bondo and fiberglass resin - they should have one or two different style sanding blocks for a few bucks.


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (EuroVeeDub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EuroVeeDub* »_
I dont get why this is bad news?
It's a $50 paint job...and oil based enamel, why on earth would anyone be suprised that brakekleen would take it off? I mean...thats what it does...cleans oil based crap.LOL
As long as it doesnt wash off in the rain, I think $50 is an effin deal and a half. (which is why I am painting the gti as we speak)










Haha, very true, although i know alot of people who tend to get a little nuts with brakeleen when doing brakes or using it as a substitute for an engine cleaner.
Just putting that out there so everyone who goes this route is aware. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## capsolo99 (Dec 29, 2006)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

what about acrylic/enamel paint...would brakeclean take that off?


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (capsolo99)*

Dont know, havent gone down that street yet.


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (efrum)*

this thread is a joke


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_this thread is a joke










Way to rain on the parade jerk.


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_this thread is a joke









Nope, you're just an idiot







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (EuroVeeDub)*

how many moldings did you get paint on? and how long you think it's gonna last. Decent primer is not even $50 a quart


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*

You've obviously missed the entire point of this thread/process. And you obviously did not post with any intention to get help doing this project yourself or to share useful or pertinent information.
...soo....
back to the paint


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (EuroVeeDub)*

i suggest if you're going to do all the work here to prep it right and what not why use $50 paint? it's not going to last very long, and you end up with a worse paint job then stock. If you wanna do it yourself, thats ok, no problem, but make sure you get some decent paint, i know for a fact between masking tape and sandpaper and masking paper that alone is $50 so if you throw paint in there too for $50 i'm assuming it's crap. I'd like to see how long these jobs look decent before they start peeling and chipping and fading.


----------



## EuroVeeDub (Nov 16, 2001)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*

Good point dude, but still...
I dont have a sprayer and I dont have a air compressor...so even though "real" paint is about the same cost, the tools are what makes it over the top.
Or are you saying roll the "real" paint?


----------



## Screwed G60 (Dec 12, 2005)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_i suggest if you're going to do all the work here to prep it right and what not why use $50 paint? it's not going to last very long, and you end up with a worse paint job then stock. If you wanna do it yourself, thats ok, no problem, but make sure you get some decent paint, i know for a fact between masking tape and sandpaper and masking paper that alone is $50 so if you throw paint in there too for $50 i'm assuming it's crap. I'd like to see how long these jobs look decent before they start peeling and chipping and fading.









All good points....I am going to assume though from your statements that you have not read any of this thread or looked into this far enough to have answers to all of you questions/unsupported statements. 
Do a little bit of research....you might find that although this is not the correct answer for *you*; it is good enough for some of us that do not want to or are not able to afford a $2k paint job.


----------



## vonfulk (Sep 2, 2004)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_and how long you think it's gonna last.

as long as it's waxed regularly..


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (vonfulk)*

well i've done a few cars myself, and you could do a half decent job with a harbor freight gravity feed gun ($20) and a compressor (which is a useful for way more than just paint, most DIY people should atleast have a small one.) I'm sure it'd be better then a roller, i saw th roller mentioned but, i didn't think it was serious. Only thing i'd roll on is primer, and even then only to cut down on overspray or if it's a small area and i've got no booth. I'm saying why spend $50 and all your time, when you can spend like $200 and have something a little more presentable, and durable. Most of the cost in a 2k paint job are labor. I painted my motorcycle for $180 and it came out far better than the factory job and i used some kamelion paint too. just saying if you are creative you could take the $50 job up a few notches and make it a way better job for a relatively small amount of money. if i was gonna put on some crappy paint, i'd rather not even sand since you're only destroying the protection you had and reprotecting things with crappy paint that won't last eventually fail and lead to more rust and problems in the future than you would have if you had done nothing. maybe be ok now, but in a few years it'll be crap i can gaurantee it. 
BUT, if you guys wanna do it this way thats ok, and you are right i didn't read the whole post, but after i read the first page i was dissapointed, i do this stuff for a living and this post just makes me cringe at every sentance i read. But http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for the effort


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*

Can you recommend a paint thats a decent price and will give basically a factory result if applied correctly?
Im deep sixing the rustoleum method and doing it hvlp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

i'd go to wesco autobody ( not sure what store supplies youre area) and get some single stage paint (color and clear in one shot), either omni, centari, or if you've got a little more $$ some PPG, enough for the whole car will range from $75-$200 depending on how big of a car and what brand you use. This will give you near factory like paint, infact many older cars and even my jeep tj are single stage from the factory. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif with some patience and some finess you could get things looking like it was done by a pro. Worst case scenario you might have to cut and buff to get out any runs or dry spots. But this will be much better then rustoleum or and kinda spray paint. This is the cheap way of doing it right (yeah i know oxymoron right?)
I hope this helps, i just hate seeing people use house painting methods to do their car


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_i'd go to wesco autobody ( not sure what store supplies youre area) and get some single stage paint (color and clear in one shot), either omni, centari, or if you've got a little more $$ some PPG, enough for the whole car will range from $75-$200 depending on how big of a car and what brand you use. This will give you near factory like paint, infact many older cars and even my jeep tj are single stage from the factory. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif with some patience and some finess you could get things looking like it was done by a pro. Worst case scenario you might have to cut and buff to get out any runs or dry spots. But this will be much better then rustoleum or and kinda spray paint. This is the cheap way of doing it right (yeah i know oxymoron right?)
I hope this helps, i just hate seeing people use house painting methods to do their car









I can agree with that 100%. I work for vw/audi and i hate to see people butcher cars or do things in a really beat way just to try to get ahead. 
Typically doing something the right way and spending the extra $$ always pays off http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## died7times (Jan 2, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

i got a gallon of aluminum rustoleum im going to paint my mk1 gli with it, i may paint the roof trunk and hood flat black. ill see how it gose and post some pics


----------



## 16VDARIAN (Apr 30, 2005)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jgti (Nov 17, 2001)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (16VDARIAN)*

I ordered 5 quarts of Brightside marine paint. I plan on spraying mine with a hvlp. 
I still have to finish my prep work, but here's what I bought.


----------



## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (jgti)*

you can always rent or borrow a compressor, I know the place where I bought my paint also does gun rental as well.


----------



## Wrenchead84 (Aug 24, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (Grabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Grabbit* »_you can always rent or borrow a compressor, I know the place where I bought my paint also does gun rental as well.

where please tell


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (Wrenchead84)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wrenchead84* »_
where please tell

home depot and lowes both rent compressors.


----------



## A2GTISLCVR6 (Jun 16, 2004)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (MyCarIsRed)*


----------



## M42Technik (Jun 6, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (A2GTISLCVR6)*

A buddy on an E30 forum did this to his:
Before:








4 of 6 coats, no wetsanding:








5 of 6 coats, no wetsanding:








After:
















In this one the front door and back has not been wetsanded:
















Painted stripes, not stickers:
























2 Months from start to finish.


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## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

wow... very nice...


----------



## jgti (Nov 17, 2001)

*Re: (vwk2)*

That came out really nice for a roller job.


----------



## rallyegolf (Oct 22, 2004)

*Re: (jgti)*

the blue and red stripes on the bmw were rolled on pretty straight. He must gave a steady hand.


----------



## Skidor (Jun 3, 2007)

*Re: (rallyegolf)*

First Post!
I've been looking to freshen up my daily driver I picked up for a few hundred. This may be a good way...I just need TIME now.


----------



## 808Bora (Feb 9, 2003)

*Re: (Skidor)*

Pretty interesting. Anyone else tried this?


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

i will be doing this the week of the 4th of july... i'll post pics when i'm done...


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## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (808Bora)*


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_























if you have such a problem with this, why not just stay out of this thread???


----------



## Verndogz (May 6, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

Hi all,
This sounds great, I was looking at spray bombing the car, but this is clearly a better method with a small budget. I like the Interlux paint, and I'm looking to get a matte finish (dark grey or dark blue probably), but I've got some questions. If I get some answers I'll do my best to post pics. I'm hoping the matte will help hide any imperfections and should take a lot less sanding than a gloss finish. I'm fine with doing a lot of work, but I wanted the matte anyway, so that would be an added bonus.
How much paint (rolled) for an '86 Golf approximately, including the flattener for the matte finish?
Will the matte finish be porous as some have suggested, or if I only add flattener on the last coat/coats, will the underlayer protect?
What prep work needs to be done exactly? What equipment do I need to prep and paint?
Do I need to buff finish for matte? Ultra 2000 grit wetsand?
If I take panels from another car, will the paint tint slightly (blue car, silver panels)?
I've got some rust along the windshield that I'm in no mood to go all out on, and I've had 0 experience with body work, what do I need to get it stable enough for the paint to protect it from further rust?
Thanks in advance,
Vern.


----------



## 808Bora (Feb 9, 2003)

*Re: (vwk2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwk2* »_i will be doing this the week of the 4th of july... i'll post pics when i'm done...









Dont forget to post some before/after pics. Do what you gotta do, and let the end results speak for themselves http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

_Quote, originally posted by *808Bora* »_
Dont forget to post some before/after pics. Do what you gotta do, and let the end results speak for themselves http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i actually went in a different direction with my paint and did it camouflage!


----------



## 808Bora (Feb 9, 2003)

*Re: (vwk2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwk2* »_
i actually went in a different direction with my paint and did it camouflage!
















pics?


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

i'm actually going to find a place to take pics right now... i'll post later on today...


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

_Quote, originally posted by *808Bora* »_







pics?


----------



## jgti (Nov 17, 2001)

*Re: (vwk2)*

I like the CAMO.


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (jgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jgti* »_I like the CAMO.

thanks! and i kept it under $ 50 too!


----------



## dubdubberson (May 31, 2004)

*Re: (Grabbit)*

watching...


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (dubdubberson)*

alright so this jazz all works out pretty well. i have gotten everything almost completed, the only thing left is to buff & wax
what are you guys using for this step? the lowest speed orbital buffer that i've found has been 3200rpm. that seems way too much though?
i've got the whole car painted with several coats of interlux & sanded with 2000grit wetsanding. 
thanks guys


_Modified by propaganda54 at 3:50 AM 7-11-2007_


----------



## VEE-DUBBER (Nov 22, 2000)

*Re: (propaganda54)*


_Quote, originally posted by *propaganda54* »_
what are you guys using for this step? the lowest speed orbital buffer that i've found has been 3200rpm. that seems way too much though?

_Modified by propaganda54 at 3:50 AM 7-11-2007_

I've used one of the dewalt buffers, retoals around $150-$200
speeds from 1000rpm-3500ish rpm. 3200 can **** up a car in a blink of an eye with anybody but an experienced buffer using it.


----------



## 808Bora (Feb 9, 2003)

*Re: (vwk2)*








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Nice job. Did you roll/or paint it on w/a gun?


----------



## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (808Bora)*


_Quote, originally posted by *808Bora* »_







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Nice job. Did you roll/or paint it on w/a gun?

rattle canned...








WalMart, $ 0.96 per can... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (vwk2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwk2* »_
rattle canned...








WalMart, $ 0.96 per can... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

what steps did you take to get that done? always interested in the flat finish


----------



## vwglolf4 (Feb 9, 2005)

Is anybody able to paint(or fix first) my front bumper in Ontario, Canada?
pic in the link below;


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (vwglolf4)*

yeah, get someone to roll you on some walmart spray paint








How are your guys' $50 jobs holding up?


----------



## fourdoordub (Sep 22, 2005)

i feel like an ass for positng this, but waht kind of paint do you need? like latex based or what?
I realize the roll on can style, but what type outside of that?


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (fourdoordub)*


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (fourdoordub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fourdoordub* »_i feel like an ass for positng this, but waht kind of paint do you need? like latex based or what?
I realize the roll on can style, but what type outside of that?

if you have the patience & extra cash, use interlux brightside. rolled it on at first but am waiting for my paint as we speak to reach my house so i can spray it on. awesome self-leveling & tough as nails, doesn't need any coating on top of it


----------



## kungfoojesus (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_









Why don't you go get your website up so we can all see YOUR work instead of just bashing on ours? Can't you see these are BEATERS we are painting like this? I'm not about to go repaint my 03 with rustoleum but in another 20 years this might be a good idea.








I would much rather paint a lip or sideskirts (especially on a uni black car) with this method than pay some ass over $150 to spray them in a booth for 10 mins after virtuall no prep work AND then bake them in the booth warping the crap outta them so i have to wait 3 days for the stupid sob's to lay flat again.
Every method has its advantages, we ain't painting show cars here. If we were do you think a $20 gravity fed gun and a compressor that most likely won't have consistent pressure for the duration of a hood spray or something of the like is going to do any better in that crowd?
I would think any painter could appreciate this kind of work. We're talking about painting ENTIRE cars for about $50.


_Modified by kungfoojesus at 8:32 AM 8-3-2007_


----------



## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (kungfoojesus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kungfoojesus* »_
Why don't you go get your website up so we can all see YOUR work instead of just bashing on ours? Can't you see these are BEATERS we are painting like this? I'm not about to go repaint my 03 with rustoleum but in another 20 years this might be a good idea.








I would much rather paint a lip or sideskirts (especially on a uni black car) with this method than pay some ass over $150 to spray them in a booth for 10 mins after virtuall no prep work AND then bake them in the booth warping the crap outta them so i have to wait 3 days for the stupid sob's to lay flat again.
Every method has its advantages, we ain't painting show cars here. If we were do you think a $20 gravity fed gun and a compressor that most likely won't have consistent pressure for the duration of a hood spray or something of the like is going to do any better in that crowd?
I would think any painter could appreciate this kind of work. We're talking about painting ENTIRE cars for about $50.

_Modified by kungfoojesus at 8:32 AM 8-3-2007_

this guys work is sick man... you don't want to call him out.


----------



## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (MyCarIsRed)*

yeah, the website isn't up and running, i am not trying to bash you guys, but it just seems a little rough, i mean for the same amount of work, just use a little better paint instead of walmart spray paint (i know some guys are using better paint) and it would be much better. I mean if you do the work the paint is your only cost, i could do a $100 paint job and have it come out looking sweet and last years to come, it's called single stage. You could get enough to spray your whole car for $100 and it'll last 10x longer than spray paint for $50. So it only makes sense if you are doing the labor which you count as free but is really the most expensive part, that you should spend the extra few bucks on quality paint to make it last. I spent about $1500 on materials to paint my truck, it *was* a beater







But then again I can gaurantee my work for a lifetime http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
BUT, i will admit for $50 your guys cars are looking pretty good











_Modified by killerrabbittruck at 9:54 AM 8-3-2007_


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## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (vwglolf4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kungfoojesus* »_
Why don't you go get your website up so we can all see YOUR work instead of just bashing on ours? Can't you see these are BEATERS we are painting like this? *I'm not about to go repaint my 03 with rustoleum *but in another 20 years this might be a good idea.








I would much rather paint a lip or sideskirts (especially on a uni black car) with this method than pay some ass over $150 to spray them in a booth for 10 mins after virtuall no prep work AND then bake them in the booth warping the crap outta them so i have to wait 3 days for the stupid sob's to lay flat again.
Every method has its advantages, we ain't painting show cars here. If we were do you think a $20 gravity fed gun and a compressor that most likely won't have consistent pressure for the duration of a hood spray or something of the like is going to do any better in that crowd?
I would think any painter could appreciate this kind of work. We're talking about painting ENTIRE cars for about $50.

_Modified by kungfoojesus at 8:32 AM 8-3-2007_


_Quote, originally posted by *vwglolf4* »_Is anybody able to paint(or fix first) my front bumper in Ontario, Canada?
pic in the link below;



They don't all look like beaters to me


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## fourdoordub (Sep 22, 2005)

*Re: (propaganda54)*


_Quote, originally posted by *propaganda54* »_
if you have the patience & extra cash, use interlux brightside. rolled it on at first but am waiting for my paint as we speak to reach my house so i can spray it on. awesome self-leveling & tough as nails, doesn't need any coating on top of it

I dont have all the stuff to spray though, like the gun and stuff. Thats why i was looking at this option... but who knows, spray guns can be cheap too!


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## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (fourdoordub)*

spray guns are expensive, and you can tell the difference, My iwata was $500, some guys use a primer gun, bsae gun, and a clear gun.
find someone to spray for you after you have prepped http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*


_Quote, originally posted by *killerrabbittruck* »_spray guns are expensive, and you can tell the difference, My iwata was $500, some guys use a primer gun, bsae gun, and a clear gun.
find someone to spray for you after you have prepped http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

having a family member or firend who is a paint is money







i'm using a cousin's spray gun & a rather small compressor probably about 2HP. it's all working out well just get used to the gun before you touch the car with it
i just got back from my first coat of interlux actually. largo blue ftw hehe. the gun method is definitely better off then the roll on method too, i have pics of my roll on a few pages back but with dark blue. i'll post back when i finish with the new blue http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
how would you rate interlux killerrabbit







btw bitchin' truck man i've been watching the build since i found the vortex


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## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

I don't personally have any experience with interlux, so i can't comment.







But thanks for the kind words about my truck


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## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (killerrabbittruck)*

so here are the results on the trunk























[
this is with sprayed interlux & after a polish. clearly not the best results but i pretty much ran out of time, i'm leaving in 2 weeks & need to finish the rest of the car. the hood is going up against the wet sanding tomorrow but it's gonna get another spray after that.
good prep & sanding between coats is definitely the best way to make this look good. it gives you the nice reflective surface that i was trying to get. in that aspect rustoleum is probably the better way because you get more coats for a cheaper price, giving you a better chance to get a flat surface in the long run. i was working on 2 coats when i wetsanded the trunk
hopefully i'll be able to go over it come christmas break or something. gl for anyone who tries this, definitely has the potential to come out really well, just check out the M3 a few pages back

_Modified by propaganda54 at 5:44 PM 8-5-2007_


_Modified by propaganda54 at 5:47 PM 8-5-2007_


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## fourdoordub (Sep 22, 2005)

so spray is better than roll on??


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## killerrabbittruck (Apr 19, 2001)

*Re: (fourdoordub)*

ummmmm.... I'm not quite sure what to say......


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (propaganda54)*


_Quote, originally posted by *propaganda54* »_so here are the results on the trunk























[
this is with sprayed interlux & after a polish. clearly not the best results but i pretty much ran out of time, i'm leaving in 2 weeks & need to finish the rest of the car. the hood is going up against the wet sanding tomorrow but it's gonna get another spray after that.
good prep & sanding between coats is definitely the best way to make this look good. it gives you the nice reflective surface that i was trying to get. in that aspect rustoleum is probably the better way because you get more coats for a cheaper price, giving you a better chance to get a flat surface in the long run. i was working on 2 coats when i wetsanded the trunk
hopefully i'll be able to go over it come christmas break or something. gl for anyone who tries this, definitely has the potential to come out really well, just check out the M3 a few pages back

_Modified by propaganda54 at 5:44 PM 8-5-2007_

_Modified by propaganda54 at 5:47 PM 8-5-2007_

looks like you have to thin out the paint more


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*

how much would you say i need to thin it? i already had a chat with interlux saying i can't thin it more then with 10% thinner. i actually didn't thin it at all, i was worried about it running
i'm hoping it looks better in the dark


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## VRSWAP (Apr 30, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

that is amazing


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## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (VRSWAP)*

so guys i'm back on the investigation on the hood. this time i tackled it with 1500grit first & it turned out a hell of a lot better. i've gotta get pictures of thew whole thing sanded with 1500 then 2000grit. after the polish i'll post
right now i'm waiting for a gallon of itnerlux thinner so i can finish the car without so much hassle, hopefully the thinner will mean i can sand with only 2000grit. gets ya nervous when you're near the edges with 1500grit


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (propaganda54)*


_Quote, originally posted by *propaganda54* »_so guys i'm back on the investigation on the hood. this time i tackled it with 1500grit first & it turned out a hell of a lot better. i've gotta get pictures of thew whole thing sanded with 1500 then 2000grit. after the polish i'll post
right now i'm waiting for a gallon of itnerlux thinner so i can finish the car without so much hassle, hopefully the thinner will mean i can sand with only 2000grit. gets ya nervous when you're near the edges with 1500grit









here's everything you need to know about this with fulll pics and write up's with the roller or if you choose to spray

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133


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## fourdoordub (Sep 22, 2005)

So, I think I'm going to try this this weekend.


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (bufflars12)*

I am thinking the same. 
I just ran accross this 
Needing to do paint on the cheap. 
Not sure if I wanted to do rustoleum, but I am thinking they can tint those paints any color.. and they already have quite the line of colors. 







Perhaps I can try it. I am curious about the durability. last thing I want to do is try to chisel that crap off if it doesnt hold up..


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*

unless you're already prepped & ready to go with interlux in a spraygun, you're not getting it done in a weekend.
a week at least for just painting with rustoleum. for 3 coats of interlux it'll take 2 days to finish painting then a few days to cure
but 80% of the battle is prep because any imperfections there are amplified after painting


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

as I am reading, this car in the image was sprayed. 
I am curious, can I use an electric sprayer? aka Home depot purchase..








I would like to see more procedural type instructions with this.. I am comin around to this cause I know how tough this paint is..


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

Time isnt the large part, $$$ into materials is. Prep, and sanding arent a problem, figure I am going to use a electric sander.








Its nearly completely stripped, and I am doing some bodywork, surely will be fixing all dents, and spotpriming. 
I am curious to hear more about grits used for what types of issues. 

What is interlux?



_Modified by DubPhreek at 12:14 PM 8-13-2007_


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## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*

from what i hear if you go rustoleum method, you go 800grit between every 2 coats. once you're finally completed, you go 1000 to 2000 in small steps to finish the paint them you polish it out
the spraygun i used was actually a professional painters gun. borrowed it from a cousin of mine. wasn't the gravity gun i was hoping for but still a HVLP gun that works way better then any roll on. thinning is also a big problem. you can see the issues i'd had with it thus far on the past pages
goodluck with it though, when executed well it comes out really damn nice


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

sheesh, I can grab a cheap grav hplv.. can even wait between when the compressor has to rebuild pressure. 
what kinda of compressor did you use?


----------



## fourdoordub (Sep 22, 2005)

i dont think im gonna use interlux. and im gonna roll it on.


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (fourdoordub)*

just bought the rollers and paper last night, going to try the hood first. 








am seeing there's a random orbit (DA) electric sander.. thinking I might tear it up first with that.. 
Hoist comin today! cant wait to do this!


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*

so i'm gonna give you guys wonderful bit of advice, something that brings the best of two worlds. one with a perfect balance of thinner & paint and another world of too much of thinner yay!
















so here's the deal, i DID mix the thinner & paint at just below 10% (what interlux & others who've done this recommends) so don't bash me on that. what i DIDN'T take into account was that when i put in the sprayer part of the gun, it sucked up the very fine top layer of thinner, which i then proceeded to stir more
too bad i missed the paper on the trunk with the first shot which i was trying to do & got a tiny bit of thinner on the quarter fan. clearly the damage is visible but so is the fact that the bottom half is nearly perfect (good mixture http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif )
gotta sand that crap out & it'll be fine. anyone done this with a sunroof? i'm trying to determine whether i want to paint it this color blue or not. anyone got any input


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

D'OH!! you mean you didnt practice on a board or somethin?








Practice makes perfect.








I am goin to practice on my 1/4 that I am dx'in
I am goin with either this dark grey, or Anodized bronze..








the grey looks like TT audi grey, the anodized.. i;d say like a darker bronze that you'd see on a lexus. 
cant wait to get started.. have ALOT of body, and prep to do.. 


_Modified by DubPhreek at 8:36 PM 8-14-2007_


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## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*

nope you get rushed & stupid **** happens. that brick you see everywhere? it's blocking in my car
when that moves on thursday, i've got a 4 hour window of opportunity before the new bricks come in & the driveway is blocked for a week. underpressure all bad things will happen







just gonna sand as much as i can for now then respray it'll all turn out well enough for now
can always be redone on a cold winter weekend


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

Yea, I hear that..


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## 2226 (Mar 6, 2005)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_


















I love this paint! I was going to look for matte paint over here and have them paint the car when I had some rust fixed. But I've got a air-based paint system and also a very old electric setup somewhere.
And the bonus is... I found a Interlux supplier over here!







Trust me, it can be a big problem reading international forums and seeing good products only to realise they're not available here.
I guess I'm add a "paint refresh" to my project now.


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (propaganda54)*


_Quote, originally posted by *propaganda54* »_so i'm gonna give you guys wonderful bit of advice, something that brings the best of two worlds. one with a perfect balance of thinner & paint and another world of too much of thinner yay!
















so here's the deal, i DID mix the thinner & paint at just below 10% (what interlux & others who've done this recommends) so don't bash me on that. what i DIDN'T take into account was that when i put in the sprayer part of the gun, it sucked up the very fine top layer of thinner, which i then proceeded to stir more
too bad i missed the paper on the trunk with the first shot which i was trying to do & got a tiny bit of thinner on the quarter fan. clearly the damage is visible but so is the fact that the bottom half is nearly perfect (good mixture http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif )
gotta sand that crap out & it'll be fine. anyone done this with a sunroof? i'm trying to determine whether i want to paint it this color blue or not. anyone got any input









how thick is your paint? are you doing 2 part paint and 1 part mineral spirits


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*

Mineral spirits?
This says use Acetone for thinning.. 
Mineral spirits are very oily, probably not the best thing to use, the paint needs to flash.. thought that was how it was done????


----------



## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*

interlux has a specialty thinner for brightside paint, meant to dry faster in quicker times with cooler temperatures. i was doing 10% of the thinner added to the paint. the reason why it ran was because i didn't fully mix it & the thinner was atop the paint, where the gun sucked it in first. 
second coat came out much better on that side, have yet to wetsand but the previous coat went very quickly


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2074554
interlux brightside thinned 25ml of 216 thinner to 125ml of paint. used a husky hvlp cheapo. let the first mist coat dry for about 20 mins then did a wet coat. i ran out of paint during the 2nd coat. i painted around 6pm, and let it dry overnight. here is a pic in the morning.



_Modified by vdubkid06 at 7:28 PM 8-19-2007_


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## propaganda54 (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*

hmm he actually did quite a bit higher then me but he also rolled his paint on. i'll have photos of my second layer when i get it wetsanded to show the difference of mixtures, for the second coat i did slightly less thinner to paint with .8ounces thinner to 11ounches paint


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## Pats16vGTI (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: (propaganda54)*

I have done this on a few cars a flat brown jetta, and a flat black golf, I am going to try to do a glossy paint job on my rabbit truck probably next month or so...


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## SuperchargedLSS (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: (oneromnala)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oneromnala* »_Bump
Ive read the entire posting its about 80 pages long.....
there has been discussion about using the rustoleum clearcoat, apparently one of the biggest complaints is that the paint has a dull shine. the clearcoat is not available in a large can only on a spray can. 
post the pics

polyurethane?


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## GTgary (Aug 30, 2006)

four coats into the process. I had a 1:1 of rustoleum gloss black paint to mineral spirits. After my first two coats I wet sanded it with 500 grit sand paper. Tomorrow after the paint dries I'll wet sand it again with 1000 grit. Then another two layers and ending it off with 1200-1500 grit. Ill keep you guys posted...


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## 20YearDubber (Feb 24, 2007)

*Re: (GTgary)*

I'm seriously considering this for my freakish faded roof.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3407549








Has anyone tried to match their Classic Green Metallic dub? Is Rustoleum Gloss Hunter Green or Gloss Dark Hunter Green close? Or should I just roll into Ace Hardware and get them to try to color match my paint?


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (20YearDubber)*

i envy you GTgary, straight sheet metal is key to making this an easy adventure








i thought the mkIII jetta was really boxy until this. that's coming out really nice though, very smooth finish


_Quote, originally posted by *20YearDubber* »_I'm seriously considering this for my freakish faded roof.
Has anyone tried to match their Classic Green Metallic dub? Is Rustoleum Gloss Hunter Green or Gloss Dark Hunter Green close? Or should I just roll into Ace Hardware and get them to try to color match my paint?

im not sure your gonna have any luck with matching the paint because all of these paints are oil based. it's hard to find any shop, let alone a major chain, who will color match it for you


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

what I did.. is tinted my own paint.. 
I didnt like the Rustoleum Smoke Grey, way too light.. 
So I used a 2 oz synringe available at any Rite aid.. 
took two Quarts of Smoke Grey (8.99), and one 8 oz can of gloss Black (4.29). 
I started with two ounces, mixed very well, didnt change color.. 
About 4 ouces, and I started seeing where I wanted, ended up dumping both quarts into a new gallon can (3$) the whole 8 oz of black, then mixing well. 
I have not yet thinned this, as I temporarily brushed on some paint to see if I liked the color (still have to sand the car, do some bodywork before I shoot this.. 
I actually think I am going darker than this.. although, this was only the second coat.. how many coats should I use?









which, I used the roller, didnt like how long it took... also is rather finicky.. 
I think for a smoother job, less sanding, I think I am going to find a small compressor, and use a cheap HPLV such as found at Harbor freight.. 
or.. I could spend 50$ and get a Kobalt.. 
I dunno, anyone Sprayin their paint?

_Modified by DubPhreek at 1:06 PM 8-25-2007_

_Modified by DubPhreek at 1:06 PM 8-25-2007_


_Modified by DubPhreek at 4:05 PM 8-25-2007_


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## DUB'D OUT (Aug 25, 2007)

*Re: (vwk2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwk2* »_










































now that is a street fighter
cool paint


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubPhreek* »_what I did.. is tinted my own paint.. 
I didnt like the Rustoleum Smoke Grey, way too light.. 
So I used a 2 oz synringe available at any Rite aid.. 
took two Quarts of Smoke Grey (8.99), and one 8 oz can of gloss Black (4.29). 
I started with two ounces, mixed very well, didnt change color.. 
About 4 ouces, and I started seeing where I wanted, ended up dumping both quarts into a new gallon can (3$) Then mixing well. 
I have not yet thinned this, as I temporarily brushed on some paint to see if I liked the color (still have to sand the car, do some bodywork before I shoot this.. 
I actually think I am going darker than this.. although, this was only the second coat.. how many coats should I use?

which, I used the roller, didnt like how long it took... also is rather finicky.. 
I think for a smoother job, less sanding, I think I am going to find a small compressor, and use a cheap HPLV such as found at Harbor freight.. 
or.. I could spend 50$ and get a Kobalt.. 
I dunno, anyone Sprayin their paint?

i spray & so did the guy with the red corrado. i liked it better sprayed then when i did it with the roller especially on areas like the grooves on the mkIII hood, that was a damn mess with the roller. spray comes out much more even but it's more susceptible to dust i feel, just have a proper environment to spray in. it does tend to get on everything
prepping the area is definitely the key to spraying


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

totally.. I would blast the place out with a air duster, get all contaminant out of my garage.. plastic it off.. drape the walls, make a spray booth that has two fans, filters for air coming in or out. 
I dont want my neighbors to freak out when I do this.. that stuff has alot of fumes.


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## vwk2 (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (DUB'D OUT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUB’D OUT* »_

now that is a street fighter
cool paint

Thanks!


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubPhreek* »_totally.. I would blast the place out with a air duster, get all contaminant out of my garage.. plastic it off.. drape the walls, make a spray booth that has two fans, filters for air coming in or out. 
I dont want my neighbors to freak out when I do this.. that stuff has alot of fumes. 

yea especially when you start to mix in paint thinner, after i did half the car the first time i was about to pass out. no mask, no filtration, no air moving through my garage. to top it off i was wearing shorts & a tshirt so i can out a blue stick of glue & had the odor of a radioactive dog...


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

30$ will save your A$$
that stuff isnt good for you to inhale.. much less get on your skin. 
I would get yourself a good paint respirator/filter one that can have the cartridges replaced. 
besides, if we get in a Avian flu epidemic again, you're covered, whip that sucka out.


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (SuperchargedLSS)*

Does anyone know of a cler coat that can be applied after its all done so that chemicals in the future dont make the paint peel right off. This is in reguards to the brakeleen episode i had. Peeled it right off. Didnt know if some type of cler over that paint job would prevent this from happening


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## Verndogz (May 6, 2006)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

I don't think such a thing exists. There's someone called the "Acid Vandal" in my area right now. The person has been walking along the sidewalk and spraying or dumping some paint stripper or brake cleaner (they don't say in the paper, but it's not actually acid) onto the side of cars. There have been hundreds? hit so far and the police can't find the person. It strips off a huge patch of paint right down to the metal







Well, I think it's kinda funny because I don't live in that city. Look it up, it's pretty crazy.
Vern.


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (Verndogz)*

paint stripper/thinner is f*cking brutal on paintjobs no matter how many layers of clearcoat you've got on it. the amount of time it'll take to put on that many clear coats (if such a limit is possible) is far greater then just having to repaint that area of the car.
just try to keep the brakeleen outta the supersoaker & you'll be good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

back on topic here.. 
I am curious.. 
I ddnt sand down, prep, other than TSP solution, and let dry before I temporarily rolled on some paint covering the rear driverside 1/4... 
once the paint dried, and its been drying for Plus 2 weeks.. I noticed that its not quite that hard.. scratches pretty easily.. 
Anyone else seeing that?
course, I just rolled the stuff on to see what the color looked like considering that I would be removing the entire 1/4 due to the body damage there.. replacing a panel..
ideas?


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

which paint? Interlux or Rust-Oleum?


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubPhreek* »_back on topic here.. 
I am curious.. 
I ddnt sand down, prep, other than TSP solution, and let dry before I temporarily rolled on some paint covering the rear driverside 1/4... 
once the paint dried, and its been drying for Plus 2 weeks.. I noticed that its not quite that hard.. scratches pretty easily.. 
Anyone else seeing that?
course, I just rolled the stuff on to see what the color looked like considering that I would be removing the entire 1/4 due to the body damage there.. replacing a panel..
ideas?

yea the interlux should be slightly thicker but i'm pretty sure you're using rusto. you've gotta keep in mind you're only on a single coat of paint, it's pretty easy to just take off if there is no primer (porous for the paint to absorb somewhat)
you i scratched my trunk with my sanding block and left a nice fat gash in the paint so i had to respray. no clear coat = easy scratches


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

gotcha.. 
yea, didnt even sand it down, so I see your point. 
I was going to prime the car before spraying.. primer isnt that spendy.. 
rustoleum paint, yea.. they even have clear..


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubPhreek* »_gotcha.. 
yea, didnt even sand it down, so I see your point. 
I was going to prime the car before spraying.. primer isnt that spendy.. 
rustoleum paint, yea.. they even have clear..









no, primer is fine just gotta sand it down before you paint on it & make sure you clean it before finally painting, adds a nice base level to fill in any scratches or small imperfections on the underpaint so you can't see em


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## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

yeah.. heck, I dont mind putting a couple coats on, being that I will be thinning.. sanding, etc..


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## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

So still no pics of anyone doing this and actually trying to make it nice.. i may start in a few weeks only using interlux brightside http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/


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## where_2 (Jul 21, 2003)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AKDiVo* »_So still no pics of anyone doing this and actually trying to make it nice.. i may start in a few weeks only using interlux brightside http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

Not yet on a car, but I've seen plenty of boats painted using the rolling a tipping method described on the interlux website, and painted with interlux paint. The results are amazing if it is really carefully done and finished with a high end brush. Splurge on the roller and the brush if you intend to roll and tip with the brush! 
Grab a







and watch this video: http://links.streamingwizard.c...v.asx


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AKDiVo* »_So still no pics of anyone doing this and actually trying to make it nice.. i may start in a few weeks only using interlux brightside http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

it's because of the time you need to do this. i messed up my process, i've come to realize this. i didn't know how to paint, how to prep, how to sand, how to do anything but honestly for like 80$ i can't bitch on how it came out
i'm gonna try again on a way smaller scale. taking a door panel off of an old car to develop ways to paint & different colors with rustoleum. it's for the technical knowledge of actually doing it at this point. 
anywho, i want a flat color next anyway














hotrod flatz


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## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

i've never painted a car before but ive read and read so it should turn out alright with wet sanding and finishing up with a good buff job


----------



## GTgary (Aug 30, 2006)

done...








So on the hood and roof I put 8 coats and as you can see its a lot more glossy than the sides which only have 6 coats. For the hood i wet sanded with 500, 800,1000, 1200.
In this pic, I was done with layer 4 of the painting process...


----------



## GTgary (Aug 30, 2006)

Btw sorry about the glare


----------



## 16V_Scirocco_GTX (Jul 18, 2001)

*Re: (GTgary)*

What paint did you use, and did you do any buffing on that yet?
My Scirocco is going under the roller soon!


----------



## GTgary (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: (16V_Scirocco_GTX)*

Polished and waxed. I used rustoleum gloss black 1 Gallon canister at Home Depot is about $35


_Modified by GTgary at 11:00 PM 9-25-2007_


----------



## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (GTgary)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTgary* »_Polished and waxed. I used rustoleum gloss black 1 Gallon canister at Home Depot is about $35

_Modified by GTgary at 11:00 PM 9-25-2007_

has anyone got any good information on mixing rustoleum? planning on stealing some graduated droppers & mixing some rustoleum for a nice color
finally found a spare fender & door, nice way to spend thanksgiving & winterbreak http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 85gtii16v (Jul 6, 2006)

I just sprayed my Civic last weekend with Interlux Brightside Dark Blue. It came out pretty well with minimal orange peel (I'm using a $50 HVLP gun) I do have to sand and recoat it per the instructions on the paint. If people are interested I can post some before/after stuff.


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

I used Smoke Grey, and Gloss black. 
I mixed two quarts smoke to one 8 oz black.. 
got this:


----------



## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

you should put pics of your civic up 16 v


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (85gtii16v)*

indeed!


----------



## GTgary (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

I mixed 50% rustoleum with about 50% mineral spirits


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (GTgary)*

does that acetone, or spirits help cure it?
I rolled it on, without thinning, used a brush, tipped it, and smoothed a bit, knocking down the intense orangepeel, and thought it was still a bit soft after a week. 
ideas? thinking about spraying.


----------



## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

its mineral spirits


----------



## joenchrissy (May 4, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

If any one has done this...
And it only cost 50 to 60 $$$ ill pay you 300 to paint a mustang.?


----------



## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (joenchrissy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *joenchrissy* »_If any one has done this...
And it only cost 50 to 60 $$$ ill pay you 300 to paint a mustang.?


50$ in material doesn't mean 50$ with material & time. econ101, how valuable is your time








this sh*t is all about doing it yourself anyway, not sure if anyone would say yes


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (joenchrissy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *joenchrissy* »_If any one has done this...
And it only cost 50 to 60 $$$ ill pay you 300 to paint a mustang.?

for $350-360, you could go to Macco and it'll be done in a day with the same or better results. If someone were to actually say yes to this, you'd better interview them to be sure they don't have a job and have a ton of time on their hands - especially someone who doesn't have their own DIY paint project or you won't see your mustang for months.
this IS about doing it yourself. The point is to save the labor money, spend very little on paint and do it all on your own.


----------



## cartercdad (May 13, 2006)

is this working for anyone no problems paint looking like a$$ or anything how is it holding up?


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*

So, for Rustoleum professional Paint.. you use Mineral spirits?
what kind of ratios we talking per quart of paint?
Id think more thinner coats would remove the nasty orangpeel


----------



## uberslow2.0 (Jun 4, 2007)

whats the process on this?...i need a paint job...


----------



## lilbacon3 (Jul 21, 2005)

*Re: (vdubpimp2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubpimp2* »_whats the process on this?...i need a paint job...

Oh gawd, any questoin but THAT question. The process is in one of the links on the original post (i only looked at the second link listed). It's in a Dodge/Mopar forum. Once you use the search button, you need to take the time to read the results of your search. I've got to do this for body work and paint right now. That's why I'm here.


----------



## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DubPhreek)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubPhreek* »_So, for Rustoleum professional Paint.. you use Mineral spirits?
what kind of ratios we talking per quart of paint?
Id think more thinner coats would remove the nasty orangpeel 

the ratio for rusto is 1 to 1 with mineral spirits. for interlux, it's no more then 10% with their specilized thinner


----------



## cleangreennmean (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

do these paints come in metallic colors? or do you have to add the metallic powder to the paint?


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (cartercdad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cartercdad* »_is this working for anyone no problems paint looking like a$$ or anything how is it holding up?


Holds up like garbage. Always kinda soft no matter what you do or how long you let dry. Cant clear over it and the color pallette is limited.

For anyone on here who wants a much better solution go to duplicolors website. They have a new system out thats a gallon of primer, a gallon of clear and a gallon of paint with everything as far as thinner, reducer, hardener etc already mixed in. I priced it out and the whole kit is only $75 bucks. Or you can buy the individual gallons for $25 each. All you do after that is buy a decent spray gun (preferably HVLP) and go to town.

For the best results though spend the money and do it the right way. I bet alot of these paint jobs look great but the durability and longevity are brutal.


----------



## DubPhreek (Apr 17, 2003)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

I saw duplicolor (again limited color, but you could tint your own I guess) for 22 a quart. 
being as I finally landed a job.. I bought a oilless compressor, soon to buy the gun, and will be doing atleast a singlestage..


----------



## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_

Holds up like garbage. Always kinda soft no matter what you do or how long you let dry. Cant clear over it and the color pallette is limited.

For anyone on here who wants a much better solution go to duplicolors website. They have a new system out thats a gallon of primer, a gallon of clear and a gallon of paint with everything as far as thinner, reducer, hardener etc already mixed in. I priced it out and the whole kit is only $75 bucks. Or you can buy the individual gallons for $25 each. All you do after that is buy a decent spray gun (preferably HVLP) and go to town.

For the best results though spend the money and do it the right way. I bet alot of these paint jobs look great but the durability and longevity are brutal. 

yea the whole rusto route is still a little sketchy IMHO. at least the marine paint you know its for this kind of environment & will harden, just takes awhile
i'd like to see some testing with some hardner anyway.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/kspclear.aspx
i'm debating about going at it with my mkIII again, depending on how cheap an new 2.0t setup will be. but i'm gonna do some testing first. gonna find some generic paint hardner & some batches of rusto to mix & match find the perfect color, see if i can't perfect the hardness of it too. probably gonna end up doing some proper car paint though, hotrod flatz has been in my eye for some time
as a long term solution, basically all of us have to come to realize that it is nonexistant in terms of rusto. you are paying for the quality & with rusto, that isn't much at all. still DIYs are always fun to do so to anyone who keeps on trucking














to you. you're gonna need it










_Modified by Cpt 2.Slow at 3:44 PM 10-2-2007_


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

For all the work though its not worth the price no matter how cheap. The time and headaches saved by just taking the time to wetsand and tape the car properly then using some decent paint is amazing. 
Especially if people know its a cheap DIY or that it isnt that long term.
Down the road if anyone wants to paint there car the right way you have to sand off an assload of oil based paint and then re-prep the entire body all over again.
As long as you dont have crazy rust or body damage then i would concentrate on the mechanical side until you have the experience or cash to do it with a spray gun. Just my opinion though.
Plus with real car paint the color pallete is endless.


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

although all the "voices of doom" make very valid points and are more often right then not, the point of this whole exercise is to do it cheap with a subtext of doing it yourself.
we all understand there is a "right" way to paint a car... we get it. I for one have painted with "real" paint and COMPLETELY understand its benefits, its pros, its time frame, etc.
for those that have tried this, sometimes it works out well, other times semi well and yet others not well at all. It's really a crap shoot and very dependant on the person doing the work. You could take that same person who does a sh^tty job with rust-oleum, give them the best $500 gun, the most advanced spray booth in the world and the the highest technologically superior paint on the market and I bet you would get the same ****ed up results as with the rustoleum.
Part of what some guys are doing here is learning - you may say they are learning the hard way, especially with all the man hours involved in this DIY process, but I guarantee, they aren't out a few 100 or even a few 1000 dollars when they f-it up.
there are two main reason I chose to use a non automotive paint...
1. I'm working on a track car. I'm not about to spend the extra cash to get some decent 2/3stage paint, the hardeners, the thinners, the primers, etc just to lay down the perfect paint, get out on the track and have it all go to sh^t in one outing.
2. once the car is painted with my paint of choice and I do f it up on the track, I will have the ability to repair the affected area, sand, and roll on paint without worrying about any of the usual issues, ie: a clean, dry, wind-free, semi sealed (at the least), compressor, gun, gun clean-up, area/booth to do very minor repair work.
It may never look as good as what many would call a decent paint job, but I guarantee it will turn heads on/at the track.
I happen to have a place to spray, and the equipment to spray it with, but I still chose to use Interlux for my application. Like one person posted, "if its good enough for the seven seas, then it its good enough for me" (or something like that).


_Modified by audisnapr at 4:46 PM 10-2-2007_


----------



## 85gtii16v (Jul 6, 2006)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

Here is my Civic. It was sprayed with Interlux Dark Blue. This is the 3rd coat. The pictures were taken about 45 min after I sprayed it, it still needs to be compounded and polished.


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (85gtii16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *85gtii16v* »_Here is my Civic. It was sprayed with Interlux Dark Blue. This is the 3rd coat. The pictures were taken about 45 min after I sprayed it, it still needs to be compounded and polished.

wow - that's an impressive DIY booth you got there








looks like you are gonna need a little wet sanding in a few days after the paint has cured a bit before you hit it with the polish. Need to flatten that paint out a bit. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (85gtii16v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *85gtii16v* »_Here is my Civic. It was sprayed with Interlux Dark Blue. This is the 3rd coat. The pictures were taken about 45 min after I sprayed it, it still needs to be compounded and polished.


hahaha i wish i had an open space like that. looks like the orange peel might be a bit of a problem but the color is hot. did that before a lighter blue that i pickup. definitely the better of the two nice job http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
all this diy painting sh*t makes me want to do it again


----------



## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_although all the "voices of doom" make very valid points and are more often right then not, the point of this whole exercise is to do it cheap with a subtext of doing it yourself.
we all understand there is a "right" way to paint a car... we get it. I for one have painted with "real" paint and COMPLETELY understand its benefits, its pros, its time frame, etc.
for those that have tried this, sometimes it works out well, other times semi well and yet others not well at all. It's really a crap shoot and very dependant on the person doing the work. You could take that same person who does a sh^tty job with rust-oleum, give them the best $500 gun, the most advanced spray booth in the world and the the highest technologically superior paint on the market and I bet you would get the same ****ed up results as with the rustoleum.
Part of what some guys are doing here is learning - you may say they are learning the hard way, especially with all the man hours involved in this DIY process, but I guarantee, they aren't out a few 100 or even a few 1000 dollars when they f-it up.
there are two main reason I chose to use a non automotive paint...
1. I'm working on a track car. I'm not about to spend the extra cash to get some decent 2/3stage paint, the hardeners, the thinners, the primers, etc just to lay down the perfect paint, get out on the track and have it all go to sh^t in one outing.
2. once the car is painted with my paint of choice and I do f it up on the track, I will have the ability to repair the affected area, sand, and roll on paint without worrying about any of the usual issues, ie: a clean, dry, wind-free, semi sealed (at the least), compressor, gun, gun clean-up, area/booth to do very minor repair work.
It may never look as good as what many would call a decent paint job, but I guarantee it will turn heads on/at the track.
I happen to have a place to spray, and the equipment to spray it with, but I still chose to use Interlux for my application. Like one person posted, "if its good enough for the seven seas, then it its good enough for me" (or something like that).

_Modified by audisnapr at 4:46 PM 10-2-2007_


I understand not everyone has the money and people are looking for a cheaper DIY that doesnt cause a huge mess and thats cool. 
I was simpley replying to other people who were asking how durable the paint was overall and the end result.
If I was building a car for the track i'd take the same path based on what you said. I wouldnt want to spend a good amount of money just to have a fender or other body part get creamed on the track.
It just seems like alot of people are taking this as the "new" way to paint there car themselves and it shouldnt be that way.


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_It just seems like alot of people are taking this as the "new" way to paint there car themselves and it shouldnt be that way.

agreed. I think many have stated from the beginning that this is really only meant for a beater or a car you aren't too concerned with. I have seen some pretty amazing results (with non-beater cars), but I guarantee those results only look as good as they do because the person doing it either had some experience or was a very quick learner and probably had the right tools to do the finish work, ie: a DA to knock down the orange peal and a polisher to make it shine. Doing all this work by hand has got to be rough and probably won't produce the same results.
as far as durability, who knows. my guess would be that all the naysayers have never actually done this for themselves and are basing their opinions on what they know of rust-oleum (mostly spray cans). I'm sure time will tell as more ppl do this.


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## VacantSkies88 (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

Anyone know where I'd be able to pick up sanding discs in the 1500 grit range? I can only find up to 600


----------



## Grabbit (Apr 27, 2001)

*Re: (VacantSkies88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VacantSkies88* »_Anyone know where I'd be able to pick up sanding discs in the 1500 grit range? I can only find up to 600

because no one uses finer than 600 on a sander, its all done by hand.


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## VacantSkies88 (Nov 16, 2004)

*Re: (Grabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Grabbit* »_
because no one uses finer than 600 on a sander, its all done by hand.

thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (Grabbit)*

not true
some do use a DA with 1200-1500 discs for knocking down orange peal and what not...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...14319


----------



## Gary C (Apr 11, 2001)

*Re: (Grabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Grabbit* »_
because no one uses finer than 600 on a sander, its all done by hand.

Personally.. I hate this thread. I'd rather see people trying to spray their cars with a cheap gun and a cheap single stage paint learning the RIGHT way...than this. Did YOU know you can get single stage with hardener... for get this. $75 a sprayable gallon. You can also find cheap as dirt primer sealers, high builds, etc. if you know where to look. The amount of MIS-information is just boggling. ..but that's a rant for another place. 
On the DA note...I will sometimes use up to THREE THOUSAND grit on my DA with a soft pad. That's right. 3000 grit.. on a DA to knock down orange peel and make buffing go THAT much quicker. Usually I hit it with 1000 then 1500 and start buffing. If I feel lazy it gets 1000,1500 and 2000. I'll warn you 1000+ grit paper for a DA typically runs about a buck a sheet. I buy mine in boxes of 100 at a shot. Adds up, but to ME it's worth it, as I'm working on stuff that isn't "just" a 10 footer driver quality job, nor "budget".


----------



## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (Gary C)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Gary C* »_
Personally.. I hate this thread. I'd rather see people trying to spray their cars with a cheap gun and a cheap single stage paint learning the RIGHT way...than this. Did YOU know you can get single stage with hardener... for get this. $75 a sprayable gallon. 

Gary - instead of cutting your rant short, why don't you take a different road and help us all out. Do some a favor by pricing out your method and provide some links!
This is by no means the end-all solution to the DIY paint job. Some here may read this and elect to go a different route (possibly based soley on your opinion). Post up some links, some pricing... oh and don't forget to put in the big ticket items like compressor purchase/rental, suggestions on where to spray if you don't have a garage, etc. That type of response would be much more appreciated and of course more informative.
And thanks for confirming that 1500+ discs do exist. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

http://www.honda-tech.com/zero...e=174


----------



## billy03189 (May 22, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubb3dan)*

my friend wants to try this on his car, {{did it to my golf with sail blue, looks great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif }} but he is not sure the paint will stick to his plastic bumper. Will the rusto work on plastic?
help me please ASAP


_Modified by billy03189 at 7:20 AM 10-12-2007_


----------



## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (billy03189)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billy03189* »_my friend wants to try this on his car, {{did it to my golf with sail blue, looks great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif }} but he is not sure the paint will stick to his plastic bumper. Will the rusto work on plastic?
help me please ASAP

_Modified by billy03189 at 7:20 AM 10-12-2007_

it should stick, it is rusto. just use primer as a base & sand it down to get a nice, even base layer. don't quote me though, get someone with first hand experience. i ended up texturing both of my bumpers entirely


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (billy03189)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billy03189* »_my friend wants to try this on his car, {{did it to my golf with sail blue, looks great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif }} but he is not sure the paint will stick to his plastic bumper. Will the rusto work on plastic?
help me please ASAP

_Modified by billy03189 at 7:20 AM 10-12-2007_

Can you post a pic of your sail blue golf?


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## billy03189 (May 22, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubb3dan)*

here are my pictures
























tell me what you guys think












_Modified by billy03189 at 11:54 AM 10-12-2007_


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (billy03189)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billy03189* »_here are my pictures
























tell me what you guys think








_Modified by billy03189 at 11:54 AM 10-12-2007_

did you end up going rusto? thats pretty badass actually, came out a lot nicer shade of blue then my cotton candy looking BS http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## billy03189 (May 22, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (Cpt 2.Slow)*

haha yeah man thats rusto


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (billy03189)*

bump.


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## vSleePerw (Apr 18, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

how much for a full body paint job... For my golf IV in sti white? live in Jersey


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vSleePerw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vSleePerw* »_how much for a full body paint job... For my golf IV in sti white? live in Jersey

no one will do it for ya man http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
this is a diy that only gives the painter satisfaction is having done his own car. in actuality it costs to much to really do it for anyone else


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## VWrUS (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (jopr175)*

bump


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## jubbin2.0 (Sep 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (jgti)*

where are you guys getting the marine paint?


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## jgti (Nov 17, 2001)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (jubbin2.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jubbin2.0* »_where are you guys getting the marine paint?










This is where I bought mine. You can also check E-Bay.
http://www.jamestowndistributo...Black


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## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

it says 440sq/ft per gallon how many quarts are you guys using for 3 coats?


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## fox0835 (May 17, 2005)

If you like the flat look here was my car in high school
ONLY 48$


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## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

was that spray or rolled? rustoleum or interlux?


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## vSleePerw (Apr 18, 2007)

*Re: (fox0835)*

where could i get this paint job of yours... whats the price


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (fox0835)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fox0835* »_If you like the flat look here was my car in high school
ONLY 48$









hey fox is that glossy marine without a wetsand?! hehe looked liked the largo blue interlux mixed with some textured painted. definitely hot though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## fox0835 (May 17, 2005)

Haha its a semi-gloss paint from home depot haha, sprayed on with the right amount of thinner which was a good deal, no wet sand and she would take a beating from anything rocks bugs, it alll washed out haha, unless you left the buggs in the sun too long.


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (fox0835)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fox0835* »_Haha its a semi-gloss paint from home depot haha, sprayed on with the right amount of thinner which was a good deal, no wet sand and she would take a beating from anything rocks bugs, it alll washed out haha, unless you left the buggs in the sun too long.

yea going for higloss on this type of paintjob is what kills a lot of people. if anyone wants to do this cheap (already is) AND QUICK the best thing would be flat or semi gloss
no wetsanding at all http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
nice job fox


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## fox0835 (May 17, 2005)

Haha thanks
I do what I can to make the VW world interesting.
too bad she looks like this now


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*an update finally*

hey guys - for those of you who remember seeing the engine bay we sprayed with Interlux Brightside red w/ the flattening agent, we finally got around to finishing up the exterior of the car. As you can see we went with a gloss red brightside and a matte black (3:1 flattening agent:black).
The entire project was a long, 10 month experience and finishing it all up with a modified "$50 paint job" seemed to suit our needs. I do have to admit, using anything but real automotive paint takes a lot of dedication, time and some slack on the end result.
Although this paint will probably hold up over time (after all it is marine paint) the amount of hours put into get this paint to look half way decent is prob. twice (if not more) what it would have been had I used automotive paint. Now don't get me wrong, I'm still a firm believer that a $50 paint job has its place; and for some its the right choice. But for those of you who are looking for the easy way out, this is def. not it.
here's a few pics to give you a general idea of the results we achieved with a half way decent gun, compressor, DA sander, orbital polisher and a LOT OF F'N love/time.


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: an update finally (audisnapr)*

WOO audisnapr finally presents the corrado hahaha 
awesome car man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif don't even know how long i've been waiting to see this


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: an update finally (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_
But for those of you who are looking for the easy way out, this is def. not it.


x2 . i think i said the same thing months ago when i finished mine .


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## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

Audisnpr, your corrado turned out great from the pics, however are there noticable defects from close up in real life?
Why would you say the paint was so much harder to use than regular automotive paint, just because it is a one step instead of two, or because of orange peel.. please go on as you are the first I've seen to actually finish a car using brightside paint, and that is my goal.


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AKDiVo* »_Audisnpr, your corrado turned out great from the pics, however are there noticable defects from close up in real life?
Why would you say the paint was so much harder to use than regular automotive paint, just because it is a one step instead of two, or because of orange peel.. please go on as you are the first I've seen to actually finish a car using brightside paint, and that is my goal.


no, there are no real imperfections in the paint, it was all taken care of post paint. I would call this a 2-3ft paint job (looks respectable up close)

NOTE:
I should note, this was the very first time I painted a car. I have sprayed bumpers and other small misc things, with limited success, but this is bar far the biggest paint project I've tackled. Having said that, if a professional were to actually use Interlux, having a ton of car paint experience and knowing all the tricks of the trade, it might be a hell of a lot easier for them to bang out an impressive paint job.
But to answer you question, I think the bottom line is dry time. It all comes down to what you can accomplish in a given time. While automotive paint can flash in 15 minutes, Interlux does not (and for those using Rust-Oleum it's even worse). To add to this, even though Interlux may dry in a good 3-4 hours, it's still way too soft to do anything to it. You can't mask it, you def. can't dry sand it and you most certainly don't want to polish it. About the only thing you can do besides stare at it and watch paint dry is _"maybe"_ wet sand it. Even then I think you are pushing your luck. As Herby can attest to, for some reason, even after a few days, the paint is still somewhat soft. It takes a good 2wks for the paint to cure to a point that if feels solid - this doesn't mean it's not workable - I was wetsanding 24hrs later with no ill affects. I did however wait a full two weeks before I start polishing (I will cover this more later)
Secondly, although Interlux does level itself AMAZINGLY well if you put down enough paint, for some reason, be it my gun, the amount of paint I applied, or whatever, the paint still has a weird pattern to it that you can see in the light. Its really hard to describe. Its somewhere between wavy and patterned if that makes sense. Most of this came out by hitting it with wet 1500g on a DA sander, but you can still sorta see it. It doesn't help that my body work isn't straight as nails either. BTW, Interlux levels so well, it's really hard to get orange peal. 
So for me, dry time and the weird pattern-thing were the two issues that I struggled with. Actually, there were more issues, but the rest were totally my fault, ie: nasty runs, burn throughs, etc.
I still believe this paint job could snap like the best of them. Again, this was my very first time painting a car, using interlux, and most importantly, polishing new paint - I suck at this part. I have all the right tools (porter cable orbital polisher, poor boy SR3, SR2, compounds, all the pads, the nicest towels etc), but for some reason it's hit or miss with me and polishings. One panel will look awesome, but as soon as I move onto the next, it'll look like shiat. So I have to keep going back over my work until I get fed up and call it "done".
I bet if I dropped this car off at a body shop and let one of their professionals polish the paint, it would be a million times more contrasty, the paint would have so much more depth and it would pop. But even though I'm tempted, I have to pull back and understand this is a track car and is not to be mistaken for a show car. I have to let go








I also have to remind myself one of the original reasons I chose to paint the track car this way. If/when something should happen on the track, a rock, some debris, contact, etc. I can easily brush/roll on some paint after prep, sand and then polish. Although we had an awesome huge place to build/paint this car in, after tonight the car will be stored at my house and I will no longer have access to a place to spray. This will be a huge benefit as I am sure I will be spending some time down the road rolling on new paint to cover up racing rage








If I had to do it again for a track car, I might actually use Interlux again. It's def. an incredible product. I don't know that I would feel the same about painting my daily driver (although I have to admit, I've very tempted to paint the center of my audi hood flat black with the Interlux after I take out a dent or two







)



_Modified by audisnapr at 10:03 AM 10-25-2007_


----------



## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

i agree 100% 
I got a few nasty runs , but mainly my fault i think . 
The biggest thing is it took me a month to paint the damn car and it isnt 100% perfect. I wasnt looking for perfect for the same reason as above , but the time taken was long . now this was about amonth just in paint with a gun. between letting it cure , and doing the top part of the car. I was able to wet sand within 24 hours with no problem other then burning through a few layers rather easy. 
all in all , i think i would do it again . maybe do one color only so that i can shoot the whole car at the same time. it does level very nice ( kind of freaky nice ). orange peel wasnt a big deal for me . after wetsanding and buffing , it was more or less gone. 
If i did another car , i think i would look into that new dupi-color paint . it seems to be closer to a automotive paint and cures fasts. the only reason would be to finish it fast . to be able to paint the whole car , sand , buff and shine it over a weekend would be great. 
Now those guys did it right and finished the car before paint , where i finished hte paint first so i am not finshed running yet







but i did have alot more body work to do. People cannt tell i used this paint so that is always a good thing. My car looks good from about 2 feet away , rule of thumb for a race car is 5-10 feet and the car looks amazing from there








I think if you are thinking about doing this , take into account the time it is gonna take just to paint it. You may want to spend about another 150 and get something else. It really isnt a $50 paint job . i think after it was done , i payed around $150 in paint plus the things like sand paper , tape , paper to wrap the car , gun, paint suit , mixing cups . so probly around 300 total or so . but i did it myself so that is cool . macco has a simlar paint . so for another 100 , i could of did all the same body work and gave them the car . have it back the same day if not the next day. But in my case it would of been more cause of the two-tone. but somthing to think about


----------



## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

herby the interlux alone cost 150$? Do you guys think it would have been easier/faster to do the roll on style


----------



## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*

25 a quart and the yellow took 2 quarts , 3 quarts of white .


----------



## Snazzy81 (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: (herby53-akaherby53)*

Does anyone know what colour this is:


----------



## WD-40 (Oct 9, 2005)

*Re: (fox0835)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fox0835* »_Haha thanks
I do what I can to make the VW world interesting.
too bad she looks like this now










And how much did THAT paint job cost?


----------



## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*

bump


----------



## XClayX (Apr 30, 2005)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubkid06* »_bump

Wow. I'm going to buy a compressor. What size would work for this job?


----------



## SuperchargedLSS (Nov 17, 2003)

*Re: (XClayX)*

Mine's coming along quite nicely, pics in a week or so once this portion's complete http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fox0835 (May 17, 2005)

*Re: (WD-40)*

free, haha thats what we paint jimmy johnson race car with the same silver so i had some left, sanded it down and spray it the body shop i was working with said i could use the clear i had, im doing another paint project agian ill post some pics how it turns out but IM CHEAP haha


----------



## exonei (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: (fox0835)*

New dedicated forum is up!
http://rolledon.forummotion.com/


----------



## drivingenthus (Feb 23, 2006)

how do you do the roll-on method for curvy, hard to get to areas? or cracks?


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## elmer fud (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: an update finally (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_hey guys - for those of you who remember seeing the engine bay we sprayed with Interlux Brightside red w/ the flattening agent, we finally got around to finishing up the exterior of the car. As you can see we went with a gloss red brightside and a matte black (3:1 flattening agent:black).
The entire project was a long, 10 month experience and finishing it all up with a modified "$50 paint job" seemed to suit our needs. I do have to admit, using anything but real automotive paint takes a lot of dedication, time and some slack on the end result.
Although this paint will probably hold up over time (after all it is marine paint) the amount of hours put into get this paint to look half way decent is prob. twice (if not more) what it would have been had I used automotive paint. Now don't get me wrong, I'm still a firm believer that a $50 paint job has its place; and for some its the right choice. But for those of you who are looking for the easy way out, this is def. not it.
here's a few pics to give you a general idea of the results we achieved with a half way decent gun, compressor, DA sander, orbital polisher and a LOT OF F'N love/time.











wow man looks great, I know how much time that takes...
for those of you that are looking at cheeper options, but willing to pay more then 50 bux, you can paint a car with real car paint for under 500 bux. 
the gun and air compressor cost the most. but I paint alot now and I useuly use a 100 dollar craftsman compressor, and a sub 100 dolar gun sprays pretty good, you will need to wet sand but alot less then the 50 dollor method. 
as for paint spending 300 bux at a paint shop is worth it in my opinion, mosty cus there are more color options and you know its good paint, but you can get paint wicked cheep at advanced auto. I belive I got a quart of pre mixed ready to spray red for 20 bux. and red is usually expensive.
best of luck in whatever option you choose. 

edit:
I painted this car this year.(sorry for the bad pic car was painted and then it started to snow before I could snap some good pics, so till next year this is the best pic I have) 
it was my first paying job, and he was a close friend, and I did it and made money for less then 400 bux. 











_Modified by elmer fud at 8:59 PM 12-13-2007_


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## screwedG60 (Dec 18, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*


Let me get this straight. What does it look like without a coat of wax?
After polishing, which is standard after painting, if you want that buff look, what happens to the look of the paint without a constant coat of wax on it?


_Modified by screwedG60 at 3:18 AM 12-19-2007_


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (screwedG60)*

mine hasnt been waxed in awhile , but it hasnt been in the weather either .


----------



## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (herby53-akaherby53)*

One of my co-workers started his Schfifty dollar paint job last week...ill post upi some pics when i get home, but i sometimes question his auto ability.
I will be doing it to my MKII Jetta sometime soon... I will beusing Rustoleum thinned to 7:3 mineralspirits srayed from an HVLP gun. I hear that works well too... WAYY less sanding


----------



## LOWERPLEASE (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*

bump 4 A FIFTY dollar color swap. I sells the real deal and know from Xperience. 80%prep 20%paint. don't cut corners it will show. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SPE3D (Feb 7, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (LOWERPLEASE)*

I am on coat 5 next. I have recreated Vapor blue by mixing. It is coming along very nicely. I painted my motorcycle with a cheap gun and a single stage paint, and it didn't look this good. But maybe I just suck at spraying...


----------



## dfaulkner (Feb 6, 2008)

I did this paint job to my 94 Honda accord coupe. Came out nicely. I sold it before the final wetsand and buffing.


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

post pics


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (vdubkid06)*

Oscar is back on the road again! Whadddupp beetches... Now i can play again








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18


----------



## SPE3D (Feb 7, 2007)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*

very nice


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## vonfulk (Sep 2, 2004)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FollowTheBlackRabbit* »_








By jemple, shot with DSC-P10 at 2008-02-18

What paint and what method did you use? Came out great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (vonfulk)*

Thank you, thanks you :bows:
I actually sprayed it with a Wagner home spray HVLP gun (60 bucks) and rustoleum thinned with mineral spirits. 
He used to look like this:


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*

So, I have read through this thread and the linked ones, and was curious to here is the paint actually hardens ok? A few people claimed that after weeks the paint it still soft. My car has a poorly prepped, fish eye, with a lot of orange peel paint job, and I have just started fender work, so it really needs to be repainted. I have another higher priority project car, so I can't spend the money on nice paint for this one. I am considering starting this process, only if will turn out alright. I am not looking for show quality finish, but I want it to look good up close. If enough time it put into it, would this type of paint job satisfy me?


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## 16V_Scirocco_GTX (Jul 18, 2001)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FollowTheBlackRabbit* »_Thank you, thanks you :bows:
I actually sprayed it with a Wagner home spray HVLP gun (60 bucks) and rustoleum thinned with mineral spirits. 



More details on your process? How many coats did you spray .. sand in between? What consistency did you mix the paint and MS to?


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (16V_Scirocco_GTX)*

I did about 4 coats. That many werent really needed though; i wanted a nice thick protective layer of paint. I had pretty nice coverage after the second coat. 
You really have to watch the wet sanding on the corners, 'cause that was why i recoated.
A very quick rundown:
Mask the crap outta' the car and remove everything i could
Sand vehicle with 220 on a random orbital sander. (i used a little mouse one)
Scrub spray bombed paint with acetone and scrubbie.
Wet sand 400, wipe car down, let dry
Spray with gun. The gun came with a little funnel for calculating consitency. I went thinner rather than thicker,so it took 20 seconds for the paint to flow out of little funnel. (Wagner proprietary)
Wet sand 600, then 800. wipe car down, let dry I could have just gone to 800, but like making more work for myself. 
Recoat. Let dry, wipe down, recoat, let dry
Wet sand 1000, wipe car down, let dry, then recoat
Wet send 1500, then 2000

Polish, polish, polish (IMHO the worst part of the process.)
I used medium cut compound, then fine cut with a wool bonnet on an orbital buffer. 
HEre is a link to him to help add a visual. I can be more specific, but i just used my discretion on the process


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*

oh, and these pics are BEFORE wax. I still havent had a chance to wax it
And yes, the paint is hard as single stage... I cant complain


_Modified by FollowTheBlackRabbit at 8:09 AM 2-25-2008_


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## 16V_Scirocco_GTX (Jul 18, 2001)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*

Thanks! I've got Rusto to test with, then it's time for the good paint to go on ... can't wait.


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (16V_Scirocco_GTX)*

most of the rusto i find is oil based. Is this the only type or rusto to do it with because once the oil based is dry it can come off pretty easy with some solvents. IE: brakeleen.


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## ReverendHorton (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TRUEBELIEVER* »_most of the rusto i find is oil based. Is this the only type or rusto to do it with because once the oil based is dry it can come off pretty easy with some solvents. IE: brakeleen. 

it's sad how many times this has been brought up in this thread.
do you think it would be good to get brakeleen on ANY paint?? probably not... if you are bathing your car in solvents all the time your paint is going to look like crap whether it's OEM, PPG, or rustoleum


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (ReverendHorton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ReverendHorton* »_
it's sad how many times this has been brought up in this thread.
do you think it would be good to get brakeleen on ANY paint?? probably not... if you are bathing your car in solvents all the time your paint is going to look like crap whether it's OEM, PPG, or rustoleum

I know i like to dip my vehicle in suphuric acid every friday afternoon after work









Noice, I just owned a page


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (ReverendHorton)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ReverendHorton* »_
it's sad how many times this has been brought up in this thread.
do you think it would be good to get brakeleen on ANY paint?? probably not... if you are bathing your car in solvents all the time your paint is going to look like crap whether it's OEM, PPG, or rustoleum

I didnt say it was good to even get brakeleen on nice paint. BUT, theres a major difference when i spray on good paint and i can wipe it away or accidently get it on RUSTO and next thing i know i have a colored pool of paint and chemicals on my floor.


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## bud's hanzo sword (May 14, 2007)

*Re: (RedBeetkeon18z)*

subscribed... i think both my cars would be excellent candidates as soon as it warms up around here.


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (bud's hanzo sword)*

if i can get my coworker to stop playing his online RPGs for 10 minutes, ill gladly post some pics of his Maxima that he rolled the paint on. 
It doesnt look 2000%, but its a major improvement from peely faded stock paint


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## TRUEBELIEVER (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: (FollowTheBlackRabbit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FollowTheBlackRabbit* »_if i can get my coworker to stop playing his online RPGs for 10 minutes, ill gladly post some pics of his Maxima that he rolled the paint on. 
It doesnt look 2000%, but its a major improvement from peely faded stock paint

Ha. I know a couple people who cant peel themselves away from the computer if their life depended on it. World of Warcraft ring a bell anyone?


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## FollowTheBlackRabbit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Re: (TRUEBELIEVER)*

Haha, not this boy, but "WOW" is his poison... and i have to hear him talk about it... "oh my rogue just cast a schfifty-five level demon curse on your mage" lol http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## Clownracer v2 (Sep 2, 2001)

*Re: (RedBeetkeon18z)*

i cant wait to do this next weekend!!!


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## Ezekielskate315 (Mar 6, 2008)

*Re: (Clownracer v2)*

once its nice out, i am deffinitely giving this a try after my bodyworks done. thanks a lot.


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## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (Ezekielskate315)*

Here's mine before, during and after the $50 paint job the last pic is of the car finished but to this day still hasn't had the final wet sand or buffing. I'll get to it some day lol


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## green-b5 (Jan 5, 2008)

Do you sand the original paint all the way off for the first step?
In between coats, what grit sand paper should you use?
After the last coat you wet sand with 1000 grit correct? Then polish and wax?


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## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (green-b5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *green-b5* »_Do you sand the original paint all the way off for the first step?
In between coats, what grit sand paper should you use?
After the last coat you wet sand with 1000 grit correct? Then polish and wax?

I used 120 grit to sand the old paint smooth you dont need to take it all the way off. Then I used 320 to get rid of the scratches, then I layered on the paint wet sanding with 800 the 1000 then 1500 in between layers. I haven't sanded the final coat yet but went I get around to it I will start with 1500 then go to 2000 then buff and wax


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## green-b5 (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (1bd81roccoS)*

any progress on the rocco?


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## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (green-b5)*

rocco is done in my book. It's going to get a real paint job with in the next 6 months or so so I'm not going to spend any more time or money on the temp paint.


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## green-b5 (Jan 5, 2008)

so was the paint job not worth it?


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## 92DieselG (Mar 2, 2008)

What if the first coat looks ok but TOOO much orange peel? and its soo hard to sand the whole car? what do i do? plus it was primed before for a driffrent reason


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## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (green-b5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *green-b5* »_so was the paint job not worth it?

Look at the last pic of the roc. I think it was damn worth it. When people see my car they don't believe me when I say I did it with a roller.
And to the last poster if you have alot of orange peel then you aren't diluting the paint enough. The layers are ment to go on really thin thats how it eliminates the orange peel. I used a 50/50 mix of paint and mineral spirits. And as far as sanding I know it sucks but you have to sand the whole car in between every layer to get the best look


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## 92DieselG (Mar 2, 2008)

*Re: (1bd81roccoS)*

but see my paint, if i scratch it with my nail, like a big chunk comes out, like it peels, i think its because i primed it before, do you think a clear coat when im done will prevent it from peeling?


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## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (92DieselG)*


_Quote, originally posted by *92DieselG* »_but see my paint, if i scratch it with my nail, like a big chunk comes out, like it peels, i think its because i primed it before, do you think a clear coat when im done will prevent it from peeling?

If its peeling then you didn't scuff the paint before spraying. The paint needs a semi rough surface to stick to. Try sanding with 320-400 then throw some layers on. Make sure you wait atleast 24 hours between layers


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## 92DieselG (Mar 2, 2008)

*Re: (1bd81roccoS)*

ok i will do that, but if everything goes wrong, would i be able to clear coat it and make it not peel?


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## nikkisixx (Dec 17, 2006)

Greetings, everyone. I am a long-time lurker, seldom poster and was skeptical about this $50 DIY paint-your-car.
I have a 1st generation MkV Golf GTI. I bought it back in May of 2006. A few weeks after buying it, I got excited and bought me a full set of Rieger Body Kit.
I have always wanted to install the kit, but when the kit was shipped, I found out it was un-painted and I had to paint it myself. I did some research and found out that the process of painting was very expensive, time-consuming, and was a no-joke.
I then looked around for a body shop that would paint my set of body kit, much to my demise, no one would dare touch it (at the time) -- they said they didn't want liability, and all that BS. I finally found ONE body shop that would do it, but they wanted to charge me $1,200 buckerroos for the entire thing.
So almost 2 years have passed, and I thought I would never see my car with my beloved Rieger body kit installed -- until a few days ago, I came upon this thread and had hope.
I went and bought the following (as a test) at Lowe's:
*
$5.98 - 1 quart Mineral Spirits
$8.37 - 1 quart Rustoleum "Gloss Black"
$4.98 - 4" Foam Roller
$1.98 - 10 pack Latex Gloves
$3.58 - 2" Standard Painter's Masking Tape
$5.51 - 5 Gallon Pail with Lid
*
I spent around $31 bucks (includes tax) - I'm planning on buying more paint soon.
I was so excited, 'went straight home from Lowe's and started prepping the car. The hood was my 1st test -- and so I used some tape to cover areas that might get accidentally painted, i.e: the sides, headlight, etc...
The only preppin' I did was I cleaned the hood using a wet and dry rag, then taped the areas for "safety", and that's it... I didn't even sand the original paint.
* And... voila~! The first coat - I felt like I was a professional auto body shop painter LOL *








Already, with just one coat, the paint job looks amazing. I'm debating if I should do more coats or just leave it alone LOL 
But this proves the $50 DIY painting is for real. I am very happy with the results and I will be painting more cars in the future with this inexpensive but great process.
Many thanks to the person who shared this information... Whoever you are, you rock hard, dude! 
v(^_^)w



_Modified by nikkisixx at 1:25 AM 4-17-2008_


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

Nikki - I'm glad this is working out for you and the paint does look good in this pic. I have a couple comments I feel I need to share with you (not to burst your bubble).
1. I'm not sure what type of masking tape that is, but looks like general purpose tape. If it is, please remove it ASAP if you already haven't. The glues on general purpose masking tape will ruin your white paint if left on too long (or in the sun on a hot day). Generally, you want to use the blue painter's tape - more expensive, but is designed to come off without any ill-affects.
2. you really should have scuffed your hood (with a 400'ish sandpaper) before you rolled on your first coat of paint. since your hood had a nice, clean, smooth clear coat on it, the new paint really has nothing to grab onto. The new black paint is more or less just sitting on top of the clear-coat from the original paint. In the long run, the new black paint could chip and/or peal since there is no real bonding between itself and its substrate.
I'm surprised to hear you are as happy as you are with one coat. generally, these roll on jobs take 5-8 coats in order to look good and cover the substrate below it (with sanding between each coat).
At any rate, the paint does look good. Consider the things I said above and make adjustments according.
happy painting.


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## green-b5 (Jan 5, 2008)

*Re: (1bd81roccoS)*

alright cool. i thought you said you were getting it painted somewhere else so i was wondering.


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## <Owen> (Mar 6, 2008)

*Re: (green-b5)*

does this method work with wheels also?


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## nikkisixx (Dec 17, 2006)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

EEP!








OMG thanks fer telling me all this, audisnapr








I just bought me 2 rolls of blue painter's tape, more sandpaper, and a few more quarts of white gloss rustoleum for the rest of the car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I just wet-sanded the rest of my car (and will definitely sand in between coats *blushes in embarrassment* ), but I'm too lazy to take out that first coat of paint I did on the hood







I'll just come back to it after I'm done with the rest of the car.








Much thanks again for the info! Very much appreciated kind sir!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (nikkisixx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nikkisixx* »_EEP!








OMG thanks fer telling me all this, audisnapr








I just bought me 2 rolls of blue painter's tape, more sandpaper, and a few more quarts of white gloss rustoleum for the rest of the car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I just wet-sanded the rest of my car (and will definitely sand in between coats *blushes in embarrassment* ), but I'm too lazy to take out that first coat of paint I did on the hood







I'll just come back to it after I'm done with the rest of the car.








Much thanks again for the info! Very much appreciated kind sir!







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

no problem. you are painting over the entire white car with white rustoleum? may I ask why? the white on the car shown in the pic looks pretty damn good. perhaps the photo doesn't show it's true condition, but sure does look ok.


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## nikkisixx (Dec 17, 2006)

yes, unfortunately, the photo doesn't really show the true condition -- the color is starting to fade out, plus it has a few chips and nicks cause of what happened a few months after I bought it. There was this huge truck in front of me when I was driving from work to home. It was one of those trucks that had a huge load of pebbles and rocks ;_; stones started flying towards the front end of my beloved car. And nicked/chipped parts of the hood, and the rest of the car's nose.
My plan is to color the hood and top black, then the rest, white (including body kit). Hopefully I do it within 2 months time. I really wanna show it off here LOL.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I have a question on this, i went out this morning and bought some supplies for my paint project... but the Rustoleum I bought says it's a Latex paint (did not realize untill I was at work researching a little more), not acrylic-enamal like stated in the Doc I puled from the Mopar guys forum.
I don't think I should be using latex on a car... but it does say indoor/outdoor, works on wood, plastic, metal and Glass.
I think i'm gonna take a trip back there during lunch to switch it.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Nevermind, i went back to the store and they say they don't have any rustoleum or tremclad in Acrylic enamel, but the paint shop chick said she can mix me some.


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

ttt


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## Sean Mckimmon (Jun 11, 2007)

Pretty crazy stuff man


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## c4sp3rs (Apr 3, 2008)

would this be the right paint to choose?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/bro...72823


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_Nevermind, i went back to the store and they say they don't have any rustoleum or tremclad in Acrylic enamel, but the paint shop chick said she can mix me some.

WHERE DO YOU LIVE?!?!
no one mixes oil-based paint anymore in my area








how's everyone doing on this project? the baby blue MkIII thats a few pages back is on the street & the paint in farking sweet. starting another on a MkIV. the owner wants white, trying to convince her to go a bit more outta the ordinary though
as for more info on the paint it apparently it takes about 3 months for all these types of paint to fully dry, the marine paint & rustoleum but its well worth it.
i'll get some photos to make believers of the nonbelievers everyone else do the same


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## distorted303 (May 1, 2008)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

So I tried to attempt this on some new fenders that i got and I have to say this is much harder than it looks. The first fender I will have to sand back down because i didnt anticipate so many bubbles. The second fender I watered down the paint even more and there werent as many bubbles. Maybe im not handy with a roller but getting an even coat is impossible for me. So far this is an epic fail for me.







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## distorted303 (May 1, 2008)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (distorted303)*

Day 2 turned around. The 2nd fender that didnt have so many bubbles got a second coat today and its looking pretty shiny now. I sanded it with 600 grit to try and fix imperfections like runs and areas where i overlapped. The 1st fender however that looked diseased with all the bubbles got sanded down and i put a new coat on. It still looks like doo doo. It definitely doesnt look close to the 2nd one. I am hoping that it covers it up on the next couple coats. 
Can anyone with experience on this project give me tips on sanding. 
BTW ive given up on the roller







and am using a 4" foam brush


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## herby53-akaherby53 (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (distorted303)*

sure , dont sand with 600 and make sure it is clean after sanding . if spraying , laydown 2 coats before sanding . mainly , i just sanded any runs out before doing the next coats , but i did a few coats at a time . 600 is to fine for in between coats. i used 220 and 330 or 300 ( i forget ) between coats . also wet that paper first to help as the paint likes to goop up


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## distorted303 (May 1, 2008)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (herby53-akaherby53)*

3rd coat started running alot so today i am just sanding mostly on the first fender that bubbled. I think the paint thickened up over night so i should have probably thinned it out some more. Wet sanding is great though, it makes so much of a difference especially when sanding out any runs or orange peel which i have both of. 
I think the runs were because the paint was too thick this time because the 2nd coat was almost perfect. I will thin it like crazy this time. 
Thanks for the tip http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (distorted303)*


_Quote, originally posted by *distorted303* »_3rd coat started running alot so today i am just sanding mostly on the first fender that bubbled. I think the paint thickened up over night so i should have probably thinned it out some more. Wet sanding is great though, it makes so much of a difference especially when sanding out any runs or orange peel which i have both of. 
I think the runs were because the paint was too thick this time because the 2nd coat was almost perfect. I will thin it like crazy this time. 
Thanks for the tip http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

if your wetsanding, soak up the sandpaper in a bucket & periodically dip it back in (really often that is). its really, REALLY effective to mix some detergent soap into the water. it makes the water much less likely to get suctioned onto the paint, thus burning it off


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## Big Dac With Fries (Feb 1, 2002)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (Cpt 2.Slow)*

I'm curious now - what do you do for the fiddly bits, like around the door handles, antenna, and lights? Do you use a brush to trim?


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (Big Dac With Fries)*

you try your best with any method. originally, the cars that the first poster did this on all had straight lines or rounded curves. you have a 60s charger, not a curved part on the entire car and bug thats entirely smooth

for doorhandles, i removed them. lights, people cover them with tape. the antenna, do you really need to make it look perfect? these cars aren't meant to win paint competitions


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## b5greenpassat (Jun 17, 2008)

anyone have some progress pictures they have done lately?


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

i planning on doing this to my car and the paint i found is duplicolor and it says the area should be primered first but the paint the guy used in the original post was durable enough to just use that. so does anyone know where to get the paint he used or can i just use the duplicolor without primering it? im using body filler to fill some dents in and i sanded that down to the metal so ill be primering that
and do i need to sand the entire car down before painting it? not to the metal just to roughen it up so the paint sticks


_Modified by corallini081 at 10:43 PM 6-18-2008_


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (corallini081)*


_Quote, originally posted by *corallini081* »_i planning on doing this to my car and the paint i found is duplicolor and it says the area should be primered first but the paint the guy used in the original post was durable enough to just use that. so does anyone know where to get the paint he used or can i just use the duplicolor without primering it? im using body filler to fill some dents in and i sanded that down to the metal so ill be primering that
and do i need to sand the entire car down before painting it? not to the metal just to roughen it up so the paint sticks


are you spraying your car with the duplicolor paint? not sure anyone here as tried to roll-on real automotive paint.
but to answer your questions.
yes: you do need to sand the entire car if you plan on painting the entire car. Before your first coats of new paint, you should sand the old paint with 320-400 grit paper so that the new paint has something to bite into.
yes: you do need to primer the areas that show bare metal. if you are using duplicolor paints, you can use duplicolor primers. Use "self-etching" primer for the bare metal areas. self-etching primer bites into the bare metal so that it and the color-coats you apply on top of it adhere to the car. After a few coats of the self-etching primer and dry time, sand lightly with 400 paper and follow with a few coats of "high-build" primer - duplicolor also makes this in spray can form. After it dries, again, lightly sand with 400 grit, clean (entire car) and start your color coats.
no: you do not _need_ to primer the whole car, however, if you are making a drastic color change, or your original paint scheme has various colors in it, you might find it hard to get the new paint to cover up the old paint. Primer not only serves to adhere the paints to the car, but also gives you a nice, clean, blank canvas to work with. This way your old paint will not show through the new paint.
if you are looking to do the _traditional_ $50 roll-on paint job - Rustoleum enamel is the paint everyone used. It can be found at most any Lowes or HomeDepot in quart sized cans in the paint section - I believe they sell gallon cans in some colors as well.


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

Does this paint withstand heat well? I am curious as to if there would be any issues using this for the entire engine bay.


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## vdubkid06 (Jul 25, 2006)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubkid06* »_http://www.harborfreight.com/c...91772
saw this online for anyone interested. think its worth it if your doing the $50 dollar paint job instead of rolling.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: D.i.y $50 Paint Job If Anyone Is Interested (vdubkid06)*

planning on repainting the bumpers since i went with textured everything but i'm getting sick of it. that HVLP seems pretty promising. good find http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_Does this paint withstand heat well? I am curious as to if there would be any issues using this for the entire engine bay.


???????


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_

???????









audi snapr is the only one i've seen who's done the bay. but just working with the brightside marine paint, you're pretty much set when it comes to heat. this crap is supposed to withstand a ridiculous range of environments. 
dorky if you see a baby blue MkIII jetta riding around kearny, its paint with brightside marine paint http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cpt 2.Slow* »_
audi snapr is the only one i've seen who's done the bay. but just working with the brightside marine paint, you're pretty much set when it comes to heat. this crap is supposed to withstand a ridiculous range of environments. 
dorky if you see a baby blue MkIII jetta riding around kearny, its paint with brightside marine paint http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

the marine paint is the same shizz as the duplicolor, right?
never seen a baby blue jetta around kearny and i am around there a lot. now i gotta roam around kearny a lot more to try to catch a glimpse of the infamous blue jetta


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## SykoraA4 (Jul 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

is there any way to mix in some kind of flake into the paint?


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (SykoraA4)*

yea i've been looking around for the flake paint ish. i think someone posted on this thread a link to another forum dedicated to this topic, the cheap paint job. if someone could find that again, they should post
on there they have a way to do it. i remember it being applied AFTER you paint the car. but i also remember it being a little ridiculous because the materials they used was pretty much greatly overpriced glitter http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_
the marine paint is the same shizz as the duplicolor, right? 

no. duplicolor is a brand of paint that made its name in garage mechanic/DIY automotive paints. It's an enamel paint that was made specifically for automotive touch-ups. They've come a long way since their introduction of rattle can paints, but still primarily cater to automotive paints. Duplicolor paint is meant to be used as a 2-stage paint (base color, then clear)
the marine paint I used (Interlux "Brightside") is a paint dedicated to the marine industry. It's a polyurethane paint and is a single stage paint (base color only - no clear). The marine industry has to put up with an extreme range of weather and mother nature (like Cpt 2.Slow said), not to mention continued repair. Painting a boat with 2-stage paint is costly, very time consuming and almost impossible out in the open air (not in a spray booth). Marine paints were made with a couple things in mind, durability, low maintenance, ease of application and easy repair (perfect for a low cost DIY paint job and race cars).



_Modified by audisnapr at 12:19 PM 6-24-2008_


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

Yeah, i understand that. I was referring to what people are buying at homedepot which i thought was duplicolor enamel and the "marine paint" that is being spoken about in this thread....
my eyes must be playing tricks on me if it isnt duplicolor


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

duplicolor is something you buy from an autoparts store - Rustoleum is the stuff you buy from Home Depot. Marine paint you buy online or from a marine store.


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_duplicolor is something you buy from an autoparts store - Rustoleum is the stuff you buy from Home Depot. Marine paint you buy online or from a marine store.

Ok I had the name mixed up then.... for some reason i thought it was duplicolor... dont mind me... got way too much stuff going on right now.
So what i really meant to ask is ...IS the rustoleum stuff and the marine paint the same? Sounds liek they are not. 
I take it that the marine paint is a much much better option, especially in an engine bay?


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_
Ok I had the name mixed up then.... for some reason i thought it was duplicolor... dont mind me... got way too much stuff going on right now.
So what i really meant to ask is ...IS the rustoleum stuff and the marine paint the same? Sounds liek they are not. 
I take it that the marine paint is a much much better option, especially in an engine bay?

i haven't seen a single person use rusto in the engine bay mostly because i think everyone rolls on the paint. me and audisnapr both sprayed on the brightside paint. i for one think that **** could stand volcanic lava but only snapr is gonna confirm this that i know


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_
So what i really meant to ask is ...IS the rustoleum stuff and the marine paint the same? Sounds liek they are not. 
I take it that the marine paint is a much much better option, especially in an engine bay?

honestly, I really couldn't say one way or another. Our engine bay is holding up just fine, but that's not to say rustoleum wouldn't be just as good.
are you spraying your car?


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_
honestly, I really couldn't say one way or another. Our engine bay is holding up just fine, but that's not to say rustoleum wouldn't be just as good.
are you spraying your car?

Maybe not the engine bay, since I dont want to drop the coin right now on the sprayer.... but when i do the whole car ... i will...


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

the reason I ask is because (and I think I mentioned it before a few pages back in my review). If you have the resources to spray the car yourself, I think it wiser to use real automotive paint (single stage being the easiest) for no other reason than flash time. You can get a lot more done in one day with a 15 min. flash time than you can in a couple weeks with a 3-5 hour flash time of marine paint or rustoleum.
if you are indeed only able to roll on paint, then by all means go with either the rustoleum or the the marine paint - both have been shown to produce a very decent DIY roll-on paint job (although the marine paint will cost more).


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (audisnapr)*

Well i have a compressor and a paint gun for actual auto paint, but being as i have never painted before... seems like the self leveling marine paint is a much friendlier DIY job


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_Well i have a compressor and a paint gun for actual auto paint, but being as i have never painted before... seems like the self leveling marine paint is a much friendlier DIY job










its not as much as the tools you have but how well you prep. if ya read all the pages of this thread, thats pretty much the only reoccuring theme that gets the very nice paintjobs done


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

hey so im doing this to my car and i did the roof and mirrors and the roof has an a$$ ton of orange peel. im using the rustoleum paint and a foam roller. its only the first coat but after i do a second one and sand it down will it go away? im kinda nervous about doing the entire car now


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (corallini081)*


_Quote, originally posted by *corallini081* »_hey so im doing this to my car and i did the roof and mirrors and the roof has an a$$ ton of orange peel. im using the rustoleum paint and a foam roller. its only the first coat but after i do a second one and sand it down will it go away? im kinda nervous about doing the entire car now

alright so you mentioned 2/3rds of the KEY ingredients. high density foam roller & paint. what about the mineral spirits? that crap needs to be like water. the rustoleum generally isn't supposed to cover the true color of the car until the 3rd or 4th coat really. if you forgot the mineral spirits, sand as much as you can, hope you still have some color & make sure to find a good mix of mineral spirits & paint


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

yeah i forgot to mention that lol i did add some in there to thin it down. ill just keep going and hope most of it sands out


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

alright so most of it went away after it dried and i put my second coat on and wet sanded it too. after i put on my final coat and wet sand that one will rubbing compound and a good wax get out the lines from sanding?
edit: my second coat i did with a 600 grit but the final im doing 1000 grit


_Modified by corallini081 at 12:02 PM 6-27-2008_


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## audisnapr (Jul 31, 2004)

I've noticed several ppl mention they step up their sanding grits between coats. I'm not sure it's totally a good idea to use anything over 400grit between coats. I understand the reasoning behind it, but you really need to give the new coat something to bite into - 1000grit scratches aren't much to bite into if you ask me.


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (audisnapr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audisnapr* »_I've noticed several ppl mention they step up their sanding grits between coats. I'm not sure it's totally a good idea to use anything over 400grit between coats. I understand the reasoning behind it, but you really need to give the new coat something to bite into - 1000grit scratches aren't much to bite into if you ask me.

x2 most of these paints don't really form a bond with the layer underneath unless you sand it with 600 or under grit. 600 might even be pushing that


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

yeah i noticed when i was putting my 3rd coat on it was not going on as smooth
im just asking after i sand it the final time will all the scratches buff out or should i not even sand the final coat...its coming out pretty smooth anyway


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (corallini081)*

well i kinda been reasoning this out for myself. if your experiencing orange peel that you can't get rid of & continue putting on more coats, i think it might be better just to not sand the final coat
the reasoning is that when you sand that uneven last coat, you're going to see the pitting caused by the orange peel. so half of your paintjob is going to be sanded, the other half is not leaving a difference in color hue once you buff & polish.
i need some certified painter to agree with but this happened to me on the hood of my car the first time. i left a section unsanded just to see & felt like that section came out much better


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

ok i decided to sand mine down starting at 400 and i rubbed and waxed a small area after and its deffinatly coming out very nicely


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (corallini081)*

crap i hate the roll on method. for some reason i always get severe orange peel whenever i roll something. how are you guys applying it, generously? don't really know. i would spray but it's only for a small area


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*

i guess it isnt as flawless as people are saying it is ahaha...
Could you take some pics of what your painting?


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## corallini081 (Jul 9, 2007)

mine actually came out pretty nice and im not even done. i went down to a 400 grit when sanding because the 600 didnt do much and i still had to sand it like 3 times at 400 to get all the orange peel out 
and im not sure if your talking to me about taking pics but i did my entire car!!


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## DorkyJoao (Oct 7, 2004)

*Re: (corallini081)*

any pics are good pics... its good to soak up as much info and images as possible.


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## Cpt 2.Slow (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: (DorkyJoao)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DorkyJoao* »_any pics are good pics... its good to soak up as much info and images as possible.

x2 btw doing the whole car gets pretty fun when it starts to take way longer then expected








**** eventually starts flying around the garage outta frustration


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## 1bd81roccoS (Apr 7, 2007)

*Re: (Cpt 2.Slow)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cpt 2.Slow* »_crap i hate the roll on method. for some reason i always get severe orange peel whenever i roll something. how are you guys applying it, generously? don't really know. i would spray but it's only for a small area









I got almost no orange peel. I used rustoleum high gloss enamel and diluted it 50% with mineral spirits. You also need to use a high density foam roller and sand in between each layer with no more than 800 grit or you'll just take the whole layer right off. Mine came out fine and its not even done yet. I still need to buff out the final coat and I'm gonna clear coat it.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

*Re: (1bd81roccoS)*

Rustoleum satin white:









__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

*Re: (DieGTi)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## I_R_5m4r7 (Mar 27, 2009)

*Re: (raymondlee)*

ok so im lazy and didnt want to read 13 ages of a year old post...could someone that has done this shoot me a pm about some details? i need to paint a new front bumper for my duba nd need to repaint an entire 89 accord for my sister in law. this is the cheapest and seems easiest way to go about it. thanks everyone.


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## hexagone (Dec 19, 2007)

*Re: (I_R_5m4r7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I_R_5m4r7* »_ok so im lazy and didnt want to read 13 ages of a year old post...could someone that has done this shoot me a pm about some details? i need to paint a new front bumper for my duba nd need to repaint an entire 89 accord for my sister in law. this is the cheapest and seems easiest way to go about it. thanks everyone.

Why don't you just read everything instead of being a lazy turd? All the information is there.


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## Cor32rado (Jun 5, 2006)

*Re: (hexagone)*

Has anyone found any of the marine paint in Yellow?


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## MyCarIsRed (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (I_R_5m4r7)*


_Quote, originally posted by *I_R_5m4r7* »_ok so im lazy and didnt want to read 13 ages of a year old post...could someone that has done this shoot me a pm about some details? i need to paint a new front bumper for my duba nd need to repaint an entire 89 accord for my sister in law. this is the cheapest and seems easiest way to go about it. thanks everyone.

cheapest, yes. easiest.... definitely not. honestly, for the quality, you'd be better off just going to macco. you can't color match to your car so don't try. and to paint the whole car (as 50 others have said in the forum already) it takes weeks of constant work.


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## raymondlee (Jun 8, 2008)

I am going to try this on the new mk3.

what ever i end up with is better than the current ashy black.


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## vrsexmike (Feb 22, 2010)




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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Wow....very interesting thread. I actually read most of it. Took me an hour+


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