# Mk2 Golf, only one brake engaging...



## steevz (Aug 25, 2009)

Hey guys,

I'm having a problem with my Mk2 Golf. When I hit the petal the only brake that works is the drivers side front brake. I'm thinking either brakes needs to be bled, master brake cylinder, or hoses. Doesn't look to be any leaks.

Could someone a little more educated on brakes let me know their opinion. Thanks in advance.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Check the front brake caliper that isn't working to see if it's seized. And open the bleed valve to see if brake fluid will run through the line (hoses can swell internally, and prevent fluid from flowing).

And check the rear brake on the opposite side for a leak. Jettas and Golf have diagonal braking. The rear brakes are tied to the front brake on the opposite side. If the realted rear brake drum or caliper is leaking, then the front brake will not work.


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## steevz (Aug 25, 2009)

Well, I went to bleed the brakes today. One of the bleeder valves on the rear brakes snapped when trying to loosen it, the other loosened but no fluid came out. I preceded to bleed the rear brake that didn't have any fluid coming out and slowly fluid moved through it, but I never got fluid without air. The fronts bled perfectly. Hmm..

Any ideas on where I should go next with this?

Edit: BTW, when I hit the brakes the petal hits the floor and before there was no resistance. After bleeding the petal gets tiny bit of resistance at the floor and the car stops a little better.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

The proportioning valve located on the left side of the rear axle beam will not let you bleed the rear brakes with the back end of the car lifted and the rear wheels drooping.

You have to either place jackstands under the rear beam to support the rear end with the wheels in the same position they're in when the car is on the ground, or crawl under the rear of the car while it's on the ground to be able to bleed the rear brakes.


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## steevz (Aug 25, 2009)

Okay, I have properly bled all the of the brakes. I replaced the wheel cylinder where the valve snapped and jacked up the whole ass end so it was level with no hanging tires to do the bleed.

The problem is still persisting, still a mushy soft petal that hits the floor and the brakes hardly work. Does this point to the master cylinder? I read the guide on isolating the problem but I have steel brake lines so I can not clamp them off.

Ideas?


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Clamping off the individual wheels at the rubber hoses at each wheel only works when you suspect a leak at a wheel, which you could check by observation.

Did you use a minimum of 1.5 to 2.0 quarts of fluid bleeding all four corners, and when you stopped at each corner was the clear fluid flowing freely, without any air?

If your bleeding was flawless, then I would replace the master brake cylinder, and after installing the new one, complete another brake fluid replacement using another 1.5-2.0 quarts of brake fluid.

Just remember that if your bleeding technique is flawed, so will be the results.


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## steevz (Aug 25, 2009)

I wish I could just test the master cylinder to rule it or my bleeding out. I made sure that it was a steady stream of new fluid in my line before closing the bleeder. I never let the reservoir run more then half out, and I almost used 2 qts. But it was my first flush.

Just took the car for a spin, and the brakes do almost nothing until the last 4/5th of the petal play, then it is mushy and they do stop the car. But no able to stop the car suddenly.

Hmm..


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

You can wish all you want, but if you've completed a good fluid replacement fluid, and there aren't any leaks anywhere, the master brake cylinder is shot.


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## steevz (Aug 25, 2009)

Replaced the Master Cylinder and the brakes are good to go. Thanks.


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