# ABA short runner intake DIY



## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

total cost of materials: $11
Total cost of welding it all up: ~$40 (depends on the shop you take it to.)

Here is how it can be done
take your stock manifold upper and cut it at an angle 


cut your stock lower after the fuel rail mounting points.
this is also a pic of (4) 1'' pieces of schd40 Al pipe and a piece of 1/4'' Al flat


put them all together and viola! take it to your good ol' boy welding shop for the best price.:thumbup:


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)




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## unknowable (Apr 10, 2011)

clever. does it fit in the engine bay? 
Ive been thinking about using the lower manifold mounting plate portion to make my own.. Funny you posted this, i was just searching a few minutes ago.


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

Ummmm.... to tell you the truth, i dont even have a car to test the fitment in! :laugh:

I just measured it though and it is 10" from the head mating surface to the furthest point.
That is the same distance as the alternator on an A/C ABA bracket. 

so it should, yes.:thumbup:


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## danvw (Sep 15, 2010)

wow good idea do you have more pics


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## 24vVr6gti (Oct 18, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## JayEuro910 (Nov 24, 2008)

yes more pics!


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## O_Matt (May 7, 2007)

Not a bad idea. :thumbup:


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## jsneed (Jan 26, 2011)

it would work to simplify piping or open up space for a bigger turbo, but I don't see much as far as power gains unless you can do some calculations on the plenum volume and runner length.


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

jsneed said:


> it would work to simplify piping or open up space for a bigger turbo, but I don't see much as far as power gains unless you can do some calculations on the plenum volume and runner length.


Agreed my friend. I am not claiming HP +++ here, it is mainly for turbo, space, looks, etc. 

Its at the welders guys, I hope to swing back by and get it in about a week or so. I am not in a hurry, but I will get some more pics when it returns.:thumbup:


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)




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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Not bad for what it takes & costs.
Now grind all those welds down smooth and polish the darn thing!  No seriously, I'd like to see that. :thumbup:


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## ReStoring (Oct 10, 2006)

This is great! Do you think it's possible to cut the runners shorter to make it sit closer to the VC? Or is the angle of them going to prevent you from reusing the flange to the head?


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

Thanks gents.
I did start cleaning it up a bit after pics were taken, will smooth it out a bit, but likely PC it ( I don't do shiny stuff very often). 

As for shorter tracts, it is very possible to cut directly after the injector ports and use at least 2" sections of pipe. The angle should be more compensated for the tilt of the engine when doing this and access to the spark plugs and leaving room for the fuel rail and mounting points should be your main consideration with a minor eye on interference with the alternator and distributor if you plan to keep it ( I am not). 

A good thing to keep in mind is the fact that a welder will charge you MUCH less if you engineer the pieces properly and he can just weld it up. Leaving machining and engineering tasks for the shop to wrap up will add to your costs significantly. 

Tailing on that point, my welder took the time to match the ports up and smooth the inside transitions for me at no cost. He did this B/C I brought his shop dog a puppy biscuit when I dropped the mani off. :thumbup: don't forget the bonuses of using a seasoned older welder with low overhead. Large commercial shops always charge more in my experience, and are not likely to hook you up like that. 

More pics later:thumbup:


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## ReStoring (Oct 10, 2006)

Whats the nipple coming off it for? Also, it looks like there's a block off plate welded next to it. Is that the case?


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## cotntale (Oct 4, 2005)

Been watching this thread. Started cutting a spare I had lying here. small projects keep me sain at work thanks for the DIY.


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## macanic21 (Feb 20, 2007)

What did you use to weld that with? I'm trying to weld on one of these intakes for a different project but haven't been able to get it to work. I have a MIG.


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## vento86 (Oct 13, 2008)

Nice.. I see a snail on the back of the motor. Specs on that?


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

ReStoring said:


> Whats the nipple coming off it for? Also, it looks like there's a block off plate welded next to it. Is that the case?


I don't remember what that nipple was for originally, but I left it there because if you pull the insert out the remaining hole is 7/16". That is the perfect size to tap 1/4" NPT. I am going to use it for mani pressure source. The block off plate covers the old hole for the ISV. Used 1/4" Al plate to cover it just in case I need to tap it in the future. :thumbup:


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

macanic21 said:


> What did you use to weld that with? I'm trying to weld on one of these intakes for a different project but haven't been able to get it to work. I have a MIG.


I believe it is all big fat juicy TIG welds. I just dropped it off and came back when it was finished so I cannot be sure. 

If you check out the Fabrication forum, there is a lot of good info about welding Al with MIG or TIG. I believe the biggest problem with using a MIG for Al is wadding of the wire within the line, hence the predominant preference for spool guns or TIG.


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## The Python (Aug 1, 2007)

vento86 said:


> Nice.. I see a snail on the back of the motor. Specs on that?


That's a .48 housing I am planning to use. I know that the prevailing tendency leans more toward .63 or so, but I want low rpm spool. I rarely rev over 4k. This is my first turbo build, so I am trying not to rush the build. Don't want to F it up.


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## Glegor (Mar 31, 2008)

The Python said:


> I believe it is all big fat juicy TIG welds. I just dropped it off and came back when it was finished so I cannot be sure.
> 
> If you check out the Fabrication forum, there is a lot of good info about welding Al with MIG or TIG. I believe the biggest problem with using a MIG for Al is wadding of the wire within the line, hence the predominant preference for spool guns or TIG.


with new metal, you can weld it easily with a mig gun or a spool gun.

its the used, dirty metal that almost specifically calls for a tig torch.. the aluminum is so porous that debrits get trapped in the metal (oil, grit, whatever) and welding dirty metal is hard, its gotta be heated way up, and welded slow (aka TIG welding) so that the crap can be melted out of the metal..

cast aluminum is just hard to weld period tho.. thats why the welded used big, fat welds..


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## drrtymk2gti (May 24, 2008)

I know I am a little late to the thread but any info on what throttle cable you used?


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## Hurt (May 3, 2011)

Nice!


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## ennui_delphian (Mar 31, 2007)

whomever does this, please be sure to try this out at a dyno, or find somewhere that can measure CFM of this intake VS a stock one.

If this produces equal to or greater than stock airflow I think the OP may have come up with one of the best grassroots modifications for an ABA ever.


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

ennui_delphian said:


> whomever does this, please be sure to try this out at a dyno, or find somewhere that can measure CFM of this intake VS a stock one.
> 
> *If this produces equal to or greater than stock airflow I think the OP may have come up with one of the best grassroots modifications for an ABA ever. *


x2.....one of the coolest mods/DIY's i've seen in a long time on here.

this looks like a one hell of an afternoon project, and if you've got a couple of these intakes lying around.... why the hell not? mess with em and come up with something. 

i have an itake i don't really plan on using, annnd a chop saw... so i might come up with my own version of this and post it up, haha.


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## ZachRabbit (May 19, 2009)

ReStoring said:


> This is great! Do you think it's possible to cut the runners shorter to make it sit closer to the VC? Or is the angle of them going to prevent you from reusing the flange to the head?


if you can make them any shorter, i'd cut em short enough to comfortably get a tool in there to take the mani off, and that's it. 

and as the OP said, you'd wanna keep in mind the fuel rail and the spark plugs... but other than that, i'd think the shorter, the better..???


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## ABATurbo (Feb 11, 2010)

That nipple is for the brake booster, you're probably going to want to keep that.


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## akid420 (Apr 23, 2009)

Any pictures with the injectors installed?


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## HellaLP (Aug 9, 2010)

akid420 said:


> Any pictures with the injectors installed?


 x2 

I have an extra manifold that I may give this a go on.


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## akid420 (Apr 23, 2009)

I made my own. Very similar. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5611773-ABA-Intake-Manifold-Need-Input


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## vacuumnoise (Jun 1, 2009)

I wonder if that would make any power NA?


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