# V8 Engine Timing belt Replacement [added to FAQ]



## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

Tonight I started the timing belt replacement on my Wife's Phaeton (06 model). I'm using the Blauparts enhanced timing belt kit and renting their tool kit for this project. I've got a coupe of questions, maybe more later.

Is there a drain plug for the radiator? If so where? And if not is there a recommended way to drain it? I removed the 10mm bolt from the drain plug for the block which did nothing as I've not broke open the system yet. It appears I'll have to remove a hose but the selection is limited as most camps are a non removable type.

- Blauparts provided instructions which are for an Audi. With the slight differences between the A8 and the Phaeton along with fewer pics than I'd hoped for there is a bit more head scratching than I anticipated. I guess the reality is that I've been a bit spoiled by some of how to posts on this forum by Michael and others. Lol I plan to ask Blauparts if they have specific information for our cars tomorrow, or at least a web sight with better pics as the printed ones I have are lacking.

I've already searched without success for more detailed info for our cars timing belt installation. But if anybody's got any other info or insight I'd be glad to hear it.

Cantrell


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Cantrellc123 said:


> Is there a drain plug for the radiator? If so where? And if not is there a recommended way to drain it? I removed the 10mm bolt from the drain plug for the block which did nothing as I've not broke open the system yet. It appears I'll have to remove a hose but the selection is limited as most camps are a non removable type.


It appears there is no drain plug. I checked the repair manual and it instructs you to pull the ECT sensor from the lower radiator hose and then pull the hose itself.



> Blauparts provided instructions which are for an Audi. With the slight differences between the A8 and the Phaeton along with fewer pics than I'd hoped for there is a bit more head scratching than I anticipated. I guess the reality is that I've been a bit spoiled by some of how to posts on this forum by Michael and others. Lol I plan to ask Blauparts if they have specific information for our cars tomorrow, or at least a web sight with better pics as the printed ones I have are lacking.


I've used the Blauparts rental kit for my Passat twice now. It's an excellent kit and it makes the job a breeze. The V6 engine in the Passat is a very close architectural cousin of the V8 and the timing belt service is handled the same way.

Look around for Michael's instructions on how to get the bumper cover off. After that, you need to get the bumper reinforcement off and move the lock carrier in the service position to get clearance. According to the repair manual, that just requires removing the ducts to the air filter boxes, a seal somewhere, and a few more bolts. If they didn't send you the "special tool" to support the lock carrier, it's just two long pieces of threaded stock that you screw into the holes two of the bolts came out of. I can get you a copy of the procedure from the repair manual if you need it.

After you have the lock carrier shifted forward and you have clearance to access the engine, the Blauparts procedure should apply directly from there.

Properly filling and bleeding the cooling system may be an adventure. On my Passat there's several points it's designed to be bled from. On the Phaeton with its far more complex plumbing, the repair manual instructs you to use a special dealer tool that fills the system under vacuum.

Jason


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## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

jyoung8607 said:


> It appears there is no drain plug. I checked the repair manual and it instructs you to pull the ECT sensor from the lower radiator hose and then pull the hose itself.
> 
> 
> I've used the Blauparts rental kit for my Passat twice now. It's an excellent kit and it makes the job a breeze. The V6 engine in the Passat is a very close architectural cousin of the V8 and the timing belt service is handled the same way.
> ...


Thanks Jason,
I suspected the ECT sensor was the most logical place to drain the antifreeze. 

I did indeed use Michael's instructions to remove the bumper cover which in itself was a breeze, not the event I'd envisioned.

I've gotten the bumper carrier moved out and have proceeded several steps. A question I now have is this- In step 7 it instructs to remove the"engine torque mount" which is somewhat behind the viscous fan pulley- which we don't have as best I can tell. What is the "engine torque mount"?

Thanks Cantrell


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## Cantrellc123 (Aug 5, 2012)

After searching for an "A8 engine torque mount" it seems that this is a motor mount although I can't confirm this a the moment. 

Cantrell


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## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

On Dennis's old V8, we just pulled the lower rad hose and let it dump into the lower part of an old shop vac. Makes a nice rolling bucket. 

Draining coolant on any car always seems to end up making a mess.


The instructions Blauparts includes are helpful, but not a replacement for a Bentley manual or Elsawin. They should supplement each other.



If you have a vacuum pump and guages to recharge your AC, I highly suggest taking the few extra minutes and just remove the entire front end. It really isn't that much more work and makes access much easier. You can then check out a lot more stuff while you are in there. 

On his car, we found the pulley circled in the picture was noisy, as was the alternator when spun by hand. We also replaced a couple coolant lines that were corroded.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

*What additional parts to replace?*

I ordered the Blauparts enhanced timing belt kit and the tool kit today, getting ready to tackle this project next weekend. I know this kit includes the water pump and the other pulleys associated with the timing belt but how about the Serpentine Belt Tensioner Arm w/ pulley that Blauparts suggests to replace at the same time? Here's the link to the part http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GJ12605%2DB . It seems quite pricey at $157 especially since they had it on sale a while ago for $25 when bought together with a timing belt kit. 1stvwparts.com sells an original VW tensioner for $126. How long does this tensioner usually last?

What else would be a good idea to replace at the same time. Coolant hoses?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Thermostat!


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

invisiblewave said:


> Thermostat!


The thermostat is part of the timing belt kit so I'll replace that one too.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I'm in the middle of my timing belt replacement project and have a question I need clarification on. At this point I have everything on the front of the engine removed (water pump, thermostat housing, all the timing belt related idlers/tensioner/damper) and have the camshaft sprockets loose. The repair manual instruct one to install the camshaft looking bar first, then loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt a few turns, then use the 3-jaw puller to pop the sprockets loose and then remove the locking bar again, which I did. 

After installing the new water pump and thermostat & housing I noticed that the camshaft on the LH side had move by about a little less than a quarter turn. I assume I can just use the camshaft locking bar to move that camshaft back into the correct position before installing the belt and tighten up the sprockets, right? I guess what I'm not totally clear about is how the diamond shaped plate at the sprocket is attached to the camshaft. I assume it is keyed to the camshaft and as long as the sprocket bolt is not completely removed it still has a fixed position to the camshaft, correct? Can somebody confirm or correct me on this? I want to make double sure that I have the camshafts aligned correctly before I start the engine up.



















Thanks,


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## Motorista (Oct 28, 2005)

*small oil leak*

Stephan,
Check out the picture posted by Josh above: looks like a small oil leak around the crankshaft oil seal almost identical to yours.
Stefano


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Phaetonlvr said:


> ... After installing the new water pump and thermostat & housing I noticed that the camshaft on the LH side had move by about a little less than a quarter turn. I assume I can just use the camshaft locking bar to move that camshaft back into the correct position before installing the belt and tighten up the sprockets, right? I guess what I'm not totally clear about is how the diamond shaped plate at the sprocket is attached to the camshaft. I assume it is keyed to the camshaft and as long as the sprocket bolt is not completely removed it still has a fixed position to the camshaft, correct?


You're correct. Even with the cam sprockets backed off and free-wheeling, the diamond shaped plate/eyelets are keyed to the camshaft and should remain so as long as the bolt isn't _way_ out, and it isn't in your pictures. If you look carefully, you'll see one of the eyelets is larger than the other, and the cam locking bar will only fit one way. Insert your cam locking bar on that side and use the bar to gently turn it back to the correct position.

I'm assuming based on your pictures it turned itself clockwise, so you need to turn it back counter-clockwise. However, this is a huge assumption on my part and I don't know how it got where it is. You need to be extremely careful because turning it the wrong way will cause valves to contact pistons, if they're not already, and that will cause damage especially if you apply pressure. You should feel very little resistance turning it back to the correct position.

Jason


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

Motorista said:


> Stephan,
> Check out the picture posted by Josh above: looks like a small oil leak around the crankshaft oil seal almost identical to yours.
> Stefano


I noticed that too. I think I'll live with it for now.


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

jyoung8607 said:


> You're correct. Even with the cam sprockets backed off and free-wheeling, the diamond shaped plate/eyelets are keyed to the camshaft and should remain so as long as the bolt isn't _way_ out, and it isn't in your pictures. If you look carefully, you'll see one of the eyelets is larger than the other, and the cam locking bar will only fit one way. Insert your cam locking bar on that side and use the bar to gently turn it back to the correct position.
> 
> I'm assuming based on your pictures it turned itself clockwise, so you need to turn it back counter-clockwise. However, this is a huge assumption on my part and I don't know how it got where it is. You need to be extremely careful because turning it the wrong way will cause valves to contact pistons, if they're not already, and that will cause damage especially if you apply pressure. You should feel very little resistance turning it back to the correct position.
> 
> Jason


Thanks for confirming that Jason. You were correct in assuming that it turned clockwise and I already used the lock bar to turn it back to the correct position but it won't stay there, it will slowly go back the quarter turn. It doesn't take any significant force to turn it, just feels like one cylinder is building up compression and when I take the bar off it will move back.

Btw, as you said, the lock bar only goes on one way onto the cam sprockets. However, the crankshaft TDC mark will be in the correct position for both camshaft scenarios (bigger eyelets on the outside, bigger eyelets on the inside). That was a surprise but makes sense when you think about that this is a 4-stroke engine.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Phaetonlvr said:


> Thanks for confirming that Jason. You were correct in assuming that it turned clockwise and I already used the lock bar to turn it back to the correct position but it won't stay there, it will slowly go back the quarter turn. It doesn't take any significant force to turn it, just feels like one cylinder is building up compression and when I take the bar off it will move back.


When you turn a _camshaft_ alone, any pressure you feel is from the valve springs (or valves just crashed into pistons). In any given position some valves will be partially/fully open and some closed. For the valves that aren't closed, the valve return springs are putting some pressure on the cam lobes. They will resist opening and push toward closed somewhat. It seems to want a different rest/equilibrium position than where you have it.. not sure why. You just need to make sure it's properly located when you secure everything together.

When you turn the _crankshaft_ and camshafts together, that's when you'll be fighting compression. If you haven't already done so, consider pulling the spark plugs. They're usually due for replacement around the same time, and it zeros out compression. It makes it much easier to turn over the engine, and very easy to know if resistance is coming from a timing error. Naturally you'll want to poke some paper towels or something in the plug wells to prevent dust or debris from falling in while you work.



Phaetonlvr said:


> Btw, as you said, the lock bar only goes on one way onto the cam sprockets. However, the crankshaft TDC mark will be in the correct position for both crankshaft scenarios (bigger eyelets on the outside, bigger eyelets on the inside). That was a surprise but makes sense when you think about that this is a 4-stroke engine.


One of the positions will be cylinder #1 TDC compression, I believe the one with the bigger eyelets on the inside. The other will be cylinder #1 TDC exhaust. I couldn't tell you why off the top of my head, but VW's official procedure requires cylinder #1 be at TDC compression.

Jason


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

jyoung8607 said:


> When you turn a _camshaft_ alone, any pressure you feel is from the valve springs (or valves just crashed into pistons). In any given position some valves will be partially/fully open and some closed. For the valves that aren't closed, the valve return springs are putting some pressure on the cam lobes. They will resist opening and push toward closed somewhat. It seems to want a different rest/equilibrium position than where you have it.. not sure why. You just need to make sure it's properly located when you secure everything together.


Got it, yes it doesn't require much force to turn the camshaft but it moves back to that particular position when I take the lock bar off.



jyoung8607 said:


> When you turn the _crankshaft_ and camshafts together, that's when you'll be fighting compression. If you haven't already done so, consider pulling the spark plugs. They're usually due for replacement around the same time, and it zeros out compression. It makes it much easier to turn over the engine, and very easy to know if resistance is coming from a timing error. Naturally you'll want to poke some paper towels or something in the plug wells to prevent dust or debris from falling in while you work.


I just replaced the plugs two month/200 miles ago so wanted to avoid taking them out again. When I turned the crankshaft over with the timing belt still installed it didn't take that much force so I decided to leave the plugs in for now. Once I have the belt on I'll turn it over by hand a few times and if it doesn't feel right, I'll take the plugs out.


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

*Timing Belt Replacement Left to The Pros*

Hello All,

My local independent garage did the timing belt and related "while you're in there" items on my Phaeton recently, I'm very happy with the result.

This shop has done work on all of my cars and they work on Ferraris to Rolls-Royces and everything in between, they are a talented group!

They also will post pictures of the job on Facebook, a nice touch, *HERE* is a link. Edit: the link will work if you're not a Facebooker.

My car had 87K and ten years on it so I asked that they take a good look around and replace other items while they had it apart. From memory, besides all the belts, tensioners, water pump, thermostat and seals that are normally replaced, they found a receiver-dryer leaking, both headlight washer brackets broken, they replaced the rusting coolant line below the radiator and all? of the radiator hoses had small cracks in them so were replaced.

This job was definitely outside of my comfort zone…I have a large red sticker on my tool box that says "If you don't know what you're doing, don't do anything!" I took that advice on this one and am glad I did!

Kudos to those in the group that do the timing belt themselves though!


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

johnt26 said:


> Hello All,
> 
> My local independent garage did the timing belt and related "while you're in there" items on my Phaeton recently, I'm very happy with the result.
> 
> ...


Excellent work by your shop, and great pictures! This is more disassembly than is really needed for a standard TB job -- the front end only needs to be loosened, not removed -- but it may have facilitated all the other maintenance work you had done. The pictures clearly show how easy it is to swap the thermostat once you're in there. You should always do this when doing a TB job.

I also see some GruvenParts billet intake manifold adjustment arms! Good choice.

Jason


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi Jason,

Yes, those are GruvenParts intake manifold arms, I replaced those a short time ago as I found one broken…good eyes!


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

johnt26 said:


> Hello All,
> My car had 87K and ten years on it so I asked that they take a good look around and replace other items while they had it apart. From memory, besides all the belts, tensioners, water pump, thermostat and seals that are normally replaced, they found a receiver-dryer leaking, both headlight washer brackets broken, they replaced the rusting coolant line below the radiator and all? of the radiator hoses had small cracks in them so were replaced.


They did a great job, thanks for sharing the picture link! It's definitely not necessary to remove the whole front end but considering that your receiver-dryer needed to be replaced, they needed to open up the AC system anyway so that way it's easier to do. Having just done the TB I was considering taking the whole front end off but didn't want to open up my perfectly working AC system. 

Btw, I also had a cracked headlight washer bracket on one side. The washers did not show any signs of damage like yours do, but I think this might happen if a mechanic tries to take the bumper cover off just by himself and the cover gets hung up on the washer. No wonder 1stvwparts had that part (called the bumper guide) in stock.




johnt26 said:


> This job was definitely outside of my comfort zone…I have a large red sticker on my tool box that says "If you don't know what you're doing, don't do anything!" I took that advice on this one and am glad I did!
> 
> Kudos to those in the group that do the timing belt themselves though!


Well, I only took it on myself because the P is not my daily driver so I had the luxury of taking my time and working on it at my own pace. From my experience I'd say it's not too difficult of a job but it will take a lot of hours if you haven't done it before. I would say it will get more complicated if you have to replace the crankshaft seal or the camshaft seals, which I didn't have to do.


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

*Timing belt*

Hello everyone 

I am coming up to the mythical 80,000 mile timing belt replacement. I say "mythical" because I have read several threads on the topic that mention 80,000 mile service for replacing the timing belt. But I but I just read over the drivers manual for my 2006 V8 Phaeton and the 80,000 service does not specify replacing the timing belt. Am I missing something?

Regardless, I do plan to replace the timing belt at 80,000 because of all the other things thank the service has coinciding with this mileage. In this regard, I am looking at getting one of the Blaupart kits:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...IME44-and-Free-Shipping&highlight=timing+belt

I am curious about peoples recommendations based on their own experiences with these kits. Which of the base, enhanced or enhanced plus kits is recommended?

Nic


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Nic:

Just in case it is of any use to you, we have a post in the FAQ that contains PDF copies of the service schedules. These might be handy and save you the trouble of running out to the car to dig out the owner manual if you need to check something on the service schedule. Here's the link: Maintenance & Service Schedules (what needs to be done, when)

Michael


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

PanEuropean said:


> Hi Nic:
> 
> Just in case it is of any use to you, we have a post in the FAQ that contains PDF copies of the service schedules. These might be handy and save you the trouble of running out to the car to dig out the owner manual if you need to check something on the service schedule. Here's the link: Maintenance & Service Schedules (what needs to be done, when)
> 
> Michael


Thanks Michael

I keep my owners manual on my night stand next to my bed, so its not too much trouble to grab it. I had seen that thread - notably the service PDFs you included for 2004 and see that at 80,000 it does say to "replace" the belt for the V8 4.2. The question is even more compelling then why my owners manual for my 2006 does not say that changing the timing belt is required at the 80,000 service. It does mention changing the belt at 90,000, but only for TDI engine. But it also says to do that again at 100,000, so I am beginning to doubt the accuracy of the owners manual.

So googling around, I came across this perhaps dubious site that include Bentley, Tourag, and Phaeton for 2006:

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Maintenance+Schedule+-+2006+-+Touareg

It also DOES NOT list changing the timing belt at 80,000. 

No I am confused.

Nic


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## twgin (Apr 25, 2012)

I would suggest the enhanced kit, not the enhanced plus.

along with the enhanced kit, plan on getting a serpentine belt tensioner and checking out the other idler pulleys when it is apart. I found a serpentine idler that felt "gritty" and replaced it also.

the enhanced plus kit includes 4 bottles of antifreeze that are, so to speak, a generation or two old (without getting into the whole G+ G++ thing). I asked at the local dealer "If I brought in my Phaeton for a radiator flush, what fluid would you put in ?" and the answer was some post G++ Volkswagen product that comes in what looks like a gallon bottle. Flush the system a few times, last couple of times with distilled water, put the contents of the bottle in, top off with distilled water, and Bob's your uncle. I asked about the G+ and G++ products and was told that they were phased out some time ago in favor of the newer product (and I got the impression the parts guys were happy to be rid of the "G" products and the confusion they caused).

whether 80K or 100K, it seems to be an article of faith in modern times that the timing belt has to be changed. if you are going to do the tranny flush might as well do this at the same time...

Terry


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

With a 2006 car, you're already well past the time when the timing belt should have been changed. It's 80k or between about 5-7 years, depending on the environment and how much risk you're willing to run. It's an interference engine, so in the unlikely event that your belt breaks or slips, your engine will be toast. Make sure you change the thermostat while you're doing it.


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

Comforting news InvisibleWave.

Then why would VW fail to include this in the description of servicing in vol 1 of my owners manual? 

Nor here: https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...2006+-+Touareg

Nor here: http://www.driverside.com/service-s...n-phaeton-2006-4831-10920-31097?mileage=80000

Can anyone else with a 2006 comment on this? 

Nic


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## twgin (Apr 25, 2012)

In some case VW labeled fluids as "lifetime" as in never having to be changed; time and experience showed this to be unwise, so the procedures changed. Maybe so with the timing belt also, who knows ? You can get the belt inspected, a good mechanic will be able to see small signs of wear or degradation; when I took my 2004 in the mechanic said my belt looked just fine. He then shook his head and said "but its getting up in years, should probably think about changing it..."


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## saxtonram (May 30, 2013)

The plot thickens.

So using my powers of deduction, if my engine is the same as the Audi A8, what would Audi do?

http://microsites.audiusa.com/my09/lifestyle/pdf/Maintenance2006.pdf
http://www.fourringsrepair.com/audi-service-2004-2006

Crap. 75k!

I am at 69k. Looks like time is up. Wish I had this done when the front bumper was off last month with the body work from the deer hit!

I can not do the work myself, so will take it to my import garage. Am I wrong to think me buying the timing belt kit (http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21118-1-C) will save me money if I have do the install?

I will also get the pair of Gruven linkage arms:

http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4-2-v8-intake-manifold-linkage-arms/

And replace the tranny fluid.

And probably replace the diff fluid too.

And ....

Oh, the price of phaetonhood


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

The Blaupart kit is definitely cheaper than the dealer will charge for the parts, and also includes the thermostat and the water pump with the metal impeller, amongst other things.


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

*Timing belt fun*

Just like josh
Actually this picture was taken after three hours work. 
That was Saturday 
Yesterday, belt was changed, plus a few "sub projects" - fixed non-op headlight adjusters - put OEM air boxes back for proper cold air intake. The cone filters were sitting above the hot exhaust. 

Also tried to get VCDS working but won't connect to CAN - need to call Ross-tech tomorrow. 
Car is 90% together now. Starts, runs, seems good 

Trunk is stuck open - won't close - batteries been disconnected not sure why it us now non- op? 

http://e28-535i.com/upload/image_218.jpg

Can't get image working - ugh


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did you turn on the ignition when you tried VCDS? It's caught me out a couple of times.


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

Yes ignition was on, during the initial test, it shows CAN not ready


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

cbh123 said:


> Also tried to get VCDS working but won't connect to CAN - need to call Ross-tech tomorrow.
> Car is 90% together now. Starts, runs, seems good


Looks like you're having fun! FYI, the Phaeton will use K-Line for diagnostics, not CAN, so it's okay to see no CAN connectivity.



cbh123 said:


> Trunk is stuck open - won't close - batteries been disconnected not sure why it us now non- op?


When you get VCDS up and working, we can dig into it.



cbh123 said:


> Can't get image working - ugh


I took the liberty of sneaking around the referer block and rehosted a copy where I keep my photos.

Jason


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

I can reach some modules, but auto scan won't work


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

cbh123 said:


> I can reach some modules, but auto scan won't work


What type of interface do you have? If you picked up one of the new beta HEX-NET units, those are a little rocky on the Phaeton at the moment; you'll likely see Auto-Scans stop and hang at address 07. However, you should be able to connect to everything except 07 and 37 manually, and it so happens they're working on that problem literally as we speak.

Jason


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

I think I am working better now. 
Kinda confused why CAN does not seem to connect, I thought we have a double CAN system. 

Trunk reset and working. That is good.

New valve cover gaskets (part of BlauPart kit ) recommended preventative maintenance - installed and f'ing both leaking.

Ugh - WHO THE HECK MANUFACTURES SUBSTANDARD PARTS FOR THIS CAR? What could be the possible point? 
It is not an installation issue, I re and re the valve covers AGAIN to Check all is installed correctly. What a waste of half a day.

Was not leaking before (however old gaskets were a bit crispy) now I have a long drive tomorrow any no clue what is the cause. 

I'd like to figure out 2 issues also,
1: fan two runs sometimes, but generates faults,,, intermittent stuff. Fan one ends up on full speed a lot - noisy 
2: how can I be sure new coolant is bled properly. I did not find a good write up on that.?


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

jyoung8607 said:


> What type of interface do you have? If you picked up one of the new beta HEX-NET units, those are a little rocky on the Phaeton at the moment; you'll likely see Auto-Scans stop and hang at address 07. However, you should be able to connect to everything except 07 and 37 manually, and it so happens they're working on that problem literally as we speak.
> 
> Jason


Regular VCDS hex+CAN CABLE


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

Other discussions that might possibly provide more background information about V8 Timing Belt concerns:

Blauparts: Vw Phaeton Timing Belt Kits and Serpentine Tensioner Arm (this post is an advertisement, but shows the parts involved)

TB: Camshaft Rattle when Engine Started (4.2 litre V8 only) - includes TB 15-06-01 (tangentially related)

Timing Belts, Timing Chains, Serpentine Belts (V8 and W12 engines)

Post Timing belt replacement overheating

Michael


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## Ed LeBlanc (Nov 7, 2012)

*Timing belt*

I just purchased a 2004 with 20,000 miles. I am told I MUST replace the timing belt, water pump etc. IS THIS TRUE???
SHOULD I REPLACE ALL THINGS IN THE KIT? SHOULD I REPLACE TENSIONERS ETC?
The car was garaged....what else should I do before being safe?
Ed


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Just re-read the answers from last time you asked.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4437225-80000-mile-service-Timing-Belt-Replacement


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