# Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY



## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

Ok my first DIY. I'm writing it because of the lack of instructions on the web and the ommision of a major problem when performing this procedure.
Mk4 Lower Control Arm Replacement
You need: 
13mm Socket
16mm Socket
18mm Socket
Rubber Mallet
LCA
If you run into the problem I did you will also need:
10mm socket
Philips head
A small jack (Widow maker)
Something soft to put inbetween the jack and transmission and oil pan.
1. First jack the car up and support with jackstands up front.
2. Remove wheels
3. Remove the three 13mm bolts on the ball joint, the two 18mm bolts attaching the Lower Control Arm to the subframe, and the bolt connecting the sway bar to the LCA. 








I found it easier to remove the sway bar first. Also if you use the small jack to jack the control arm up before you remove the sway bar as it tends to pop out once you remove the bolt. And it make putting the sway bar back a piece of cake if you use the small jack to line the hole up to the endlink before putting the swaybar bolt back in.








4. The LCA should now be loose and you can pull it out and put in the new one.
5. This works best if you put the bolts for the ball joint back first as its hard to line the three up if everything else is on. 








And that might be it...unless.
Problem you may encounter.








The front bolt on the subframe does not come out far enough to remove.
1. Remove the battery and battery tray with 10mm socket.
2. Undo top cover for the wiring harness that goes into the engine.
3. You will have to pry out the lower plastic portion of the harness so there is some slack in the harness, there is one plastic piece were it shoves onto a bolt welded to the engine bay, simply pry this off it will go back on and is underneath the battery. (I did not remove my intake but it would make the job easier)
4. You should now see the drivers side engine mount, remove the 16mm and one 13mm bolt on the furthest side away from the engine otherwise you are starting to drop your transmission. The mount should now be resting on the bottom of the bay.
















5. Get a jack and place it under the transmission (the widowmaker will do just fine) and start jacking it up until you have enough space to remove the front LCA bolt. (yes pics are oil pan side but same process)








6. Jack it back down after you put the bolt in for the new LCA and put it all back together.
7. For the other side you are doing the same thing on the passenger side except there are only two 16mm bolts for the engine mount and you only have to take off the coolant tank and jack up the oil pan.








You can do this in an about hour or so, hope this helps someone out, 


_Modified by VR6onDaBlock at 7:31 PM 9-23-2009_


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## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY (VR6onDaBlock)*

Feel free to add to the Mk4 DIY


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## TRR32Andrew (Dec 27, 2008)

nice write up Dan http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Double_A (May 18, 2008)

*Re: (TRR32Andrew)*

now make one for b5 passats....







lol
just kidding, nice writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## villarroelfamily (Apr 28, 2009)

*Re: Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY (VR6onDaBlock)*

why did you replace the LCA?
at the dealership, they did a free 25pt inspection and told me that the control arm bushing needs attention. this was back in 10/2009. i just checked the drivers side and i can see that its worn out and its cracking. i checked the passengers side and it seems fine. should i replace both sides or just the one that needs attention, drivers side. i would like to do both to prevent mantainance since it has 132k miles.
i am also going to replace the two sway bar bushings for maintenance. i didnt check it yet, but again. preventive maintenance.


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## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY (villarroelfamily)*

haha wow I need to check my own posts more often, I replaced em because the alignment place couldn't do it because one of them appeared to be bent (hit something passenger side and had the damage repaired but the LCA wasn't on the bill so it made sense for the guy to say it was bent) , so I figured to just upgrade both if I have to get one new one.


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## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY (villarroelfamily)*

I would say just do both as a new one on only one side will make your car handle differently, I would reccomend the LCAs with Polyurethane bushings from MJM Autohaus, free shipping on these at 170 bucks and it really does make the car handle so much better, steering imput is very crisp, you can just get the poly bushings from here too, I just had to replace a whole arm and figured not to mess with putting them on the LCA's. 
Plus mines a 3VW vin meaning it was made in el Mexico so I'd rather have as many German parts on this as possible (stereotype I know but in 1993 when VW made its first dubs for the american market out of it's plant in Mexico many dealerships refused them due to poor quality)


_Modified by VR6onDaBlock at 5:18 AM 3-4-2010_


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## The Kilted Yaksman (Oct 31, 2000)

*Re: Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY (VR6onDaBlock)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6onDaBlock* »_I would say just do both as a new one on only one side will make your car handle differently, I would reccomend the LCAs with Polyurethane bushings from MJM Autohaus, free shipping on these at 170 bucks and it really does make the car handle so much better, steering imput is very crisp, you can just get the poly bushings from here too, I just had to replace a whole arm and figured not to mess with putting them on the LCA's. 

Good DIY, but most of the more knowledgeable people here will strongly recommend _against_ using poly in the rear bushing location. Poly binds and simply does not allow the LCA to move the way it is supposed to. If you have to upgrade from stock the best solution for most is using TT/R32 rear bushings.


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## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: Lower Control Arm Replacement DIY (The Kilted Yaksman)*

I'll keep that in mind if i decide to switch out that bushing in the future, and dam I looked back on MJM and they make that exact setup for 200...oh well


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## JAPANDO (Feb 12, 2006)

was wondering how easy this is..... going to have to do this REAL SOON!! now i know! thanks dan!!


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## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: (JAPANDO)*

bump for a friend takin this task on...


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (VR6onDaBlock)*

Poly rear control arm bushings are one of the worst things you can do to your suspension!


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## VR6onDaBlock (Oct 8, 2007)

*Re: (gehr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gehr* »_Poly rear control arm bushings are one of the worst things you can do to your suspension!

yes yes yes I've been told already, I already replaced them with the R32s bushings


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (VR6onDaBlock)*








cool.....good job! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RetroAction (Jan 1, 2012)

QUESTION! Please answer this if you can. When doing the passenger side LCA do I have to remove the driver side engine mount or just the two passenger side bolts to get clearance for that front bolt on the LCA?! Please answer!


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