# DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*DO NOT TAKE OFF YOUR CAMSHAFT , DO NOT TAKE OFF YOUR CAMSHAFT* 
Youtube Videos Uploaded 4-17-10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqk1f_nMfn4 part 1 10mins
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy-UVCEvYrk part2 10mins
TDC, almost, they must line up
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4096117
camshaft diagrams
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

Where to Buy.
http://www.blauparts.com/prodd...005-1

WATCH THIS TOPIC AND EMAIL ALL REPLIES
Please help me if i need it if you know any info.
Parts needed:
Torx T-30
10mm metric the long one.
gloves
paper towels
Advice:
you do not need to take OFF your cam shaft if your DOING THE MOON SEAL, FLAT SEAL, SPARK PLUG SEAL, AND VALVE COVER SEAL. Just take off the tensioner itself a little bit after you have compressed it with that VW compresser tool.
The the only reason why you need to take off your CAMSHAFT, is if the CAM SEAL is leaking. DON"T touch if its not!
POOR oil on the cams and cam chain when you are done and before you start up your engine.
you can use ""electronics cleaner"" to clean the oil on the outside of the engine as well. works best!

_Quote, originally posted by *TAIVWAUDITECH* »_That is too much work.I simply decompress the tensioner,unbolt & raise the tensioner,slide out the old gasket & half moon,irrigate/clean the surfaces with carb spray,install the new half moon & gasket,bolt it back down and de-compress.All done.. 


























oil around the spark plugs, not good!!!









do you see all of those screws??? yes, you have to remove them BE CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP THE SCREWS!









sooooo beautiful!!! German engineering!!









One thing whats nice is it will stop tensioning when there is too much pressure. ((when you are done, If the tensioner does not want to uncompress anymore, use some pliers to lift it up and start unscrewing that way.))
Buy a Star key or Torx key in a set. (preferably a torx T-30)
This is the part where you depress the tensioner. it should CLICK in there between the chain~~~~~ and the metal part | | 
















There are 4 bolts to move the tensioner UP like this. Remove them and left the tensioner.
What is now exposed is the MOON seal and that FLAT seal. Do you see that nipple sticking upwards? thats where the FLAT seal goes.








The FLAT seal








Here is the new half MOON seal in place!! Be patient! becareful not to drop it with your pliers!









by the way i went crazy on the gasket sealer. i made sure everything had sealant on it.
Put Selant on the Flat Seal: YES, top and bottom! a whole bunch!
Put Sealant on the Moon Seal: Yes! 360 all over sealant!
Put sealant on the Larger gasket: YES! But only on the bottom of it! NOT on top of it!
Put sealant on the Spark plug seal: NO! do not put sealant on this rubber seal! Pressure will stop the leak. Look at the design of it.
Put sealant on the cam seals: NO! do not put sealant on this! No reason to.
That about sums it up, any questions post a comment or msg me!
i will record a video eventually, but this gets the job done.

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 6:31 PM 4-12-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 8:44 PM 4-12-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 8:48 PM 4-12-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:00 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:10 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:11 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:12 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:14 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:23 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:27 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:39 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:59 PM 4-13-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 6:20 PM 4-19-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 12:19 AM 4-20-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 1:10 AM 4-20-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 12:24 AM 8-1-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 12:41 AM 8-1-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 1:10 AM 8-1-2009_  

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 2:23 AM 1-4-2010_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 5:02 PM 4-17-2010_


_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 6:23 PM 4-17-2010_


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

Click here too
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4321431


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*













































beer for you


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (hootyburra)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hootyburra* »_












































beer for you









thanks, gonna need it afterwards!
some pics are up...


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Looks good so far.... dont forget to mark the chain and the sprockets on the cams, also, did you put the pistons @ TDC? If you did, howd you go about it?


----------



## BoBa524 (Apr 18, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

get the little cam tensioner tool, compress it, undo the 3 bolts, lift the tesioner slightly get your pick set out pull the seal and moon out. clean the area with brake cleaner. silicone the moon and install it and install the seal. its kinda tight but thats how its done at my shop...no messing with timing. 30min job.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (BoBa524)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoBa524* »_get the little cam tensioner tool, compress it, undo the 3 bolts, lift the tesioner slightly get your pick set out pull the seal and moon out. clean the area with brake cleaner. silicone the moon and install it and install the seal. its kinda tight but thats how its done at my shop...no messing with timing. 30min job.

new pics are UPPPP!!!
throw out as much advice as you want. thanks!


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

I don't want to mess around with timing, there is no way i am doing the timing belt cam shaft seal. hell no, its good and its not leaking, i am happy.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_Looks good so far.... dont forget to mark the chain and the sprockets on the cams, also, did you put the pistons @ TDC? If you did, howd you go about it?

pistons?????
i don't have to touch them..... nor do i see them, they are under the spark plugs and i don't know what TDC means???


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

FINALLY! Just replaced the moon seal, dam that took forever.... well i am very patient and i don't want to mess up.
i started at 6pm..... got done at 11:00pm ... dam thats a long time. By the way you don't have to take off the cam chain to do this, i am sooo glad! Marking it was kinda was not needed, but i guess its for caution. its all done now, 
Wait 24hours so the silicone will seal.......
wow.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

WIll post more pics later, nightzzz


----------



## capsaicin (Apr 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*

I see you have some oil in the spark plug wells before removing the valve cover. I saw that when changing a coil on my car and that's what sparked me to do this too. I'll be tackling this in a few weeks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif the more pics and advice the better


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_
pistons?????
i don't have to touch them..... nor do i see them, they are under the spark plugs and *i don't know what TDC means*???


Ouch. I hope you understand the relationship between the two cams needs to be precisely kept the way it was, or you risk damaging your engine like a broken timing belt, or at least have to rip it all back apart to realign the two cams...?


----------



## capsaicin (Apr 1, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Ouch. I hope you understand the relationship between the two cams needs to be precisely kept the way it was, or you risk damaging your engine like a broken timing belt, or at least have to rip it all back apart to realign the two cams...?

He didn't separate the cams from the chain at any point. Everything should be in time and in order.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (capsaicin)*

Hope so! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (BoBa524)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoBa524* »_get the little cam tensioner tool, compress it, undo the 3 bolts, lift the tesioner slightly get your pick set out pull the seal and moon out. clean the area with brake cleaner. silicone the moon and install it and install the seal. its kinda tight but thats how its done at my shop...no messing with timing. 30min job.

thats how i did it. no need to take out the cam


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (cashmoneyflo)*

Abotu the halfmoon. There's one integrated into the VC gasket and the other that's standalone that goes under the tensioner gasket.
I have some Loctite gasket compound/sealant. Bentley doesn't say anything about using it for the halfmoons but it does say to use it where the VC gasket bends on both driver and passenger side. I presume Bentley meant that we apply a dab of gasket sealant before installing the VC gasket. How about the halfmoons?


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*

i have a haynes repair manual and it only said to put rtv sealant on the shaded area in the pic below


----------



## TAIVWAUDITECH (Dec 23, 2006)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*

That is too much work.I simply decompress the tensioner,unbolt & raise the tensioner,slide out the old gasket & half moon,irrigate/clean the surfaces with carb spray,install the new half moon & gasket,bolt it back down and de-compress.All done..


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (cashmoneyflo)*

My Bentley says the same thing in addition to the dabs of sealant at the bends before applying the VC gasket. I'll scan it in tonight.
Note that the tensioner gasket has some blue stuff already applied in that shaded section on the tensioner gasket in your pic. Is that sealant?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

HOW tight am i supposed to tighten the cam sprocket thats near the "metal notch" i said in my thread? i believe its 10 but double check for me.
theres a 13mm or 14mm bolt there


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

I saw 7 lb-ft (or 10 Nm) in Bentley for the tensioner bolts and the same with the VC nuts.


----------



## kevinadamsvw (Oct 15, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (TAIVWAUDITECH)*

as stated before no need to remove the tensioner..
just lift it up


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (kevinadamsvw)*

pistons?????
i don't have to touch them..... nor do i see them, they are under the spark plugs and i don't know what TDC means???

Most people say you need to have the pistons @TDC Top Dead Center before messing with timing. No biggie tho if you didnt remove the cams.


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

What about the cam tensioner seal???? Have you changed that? Thats what this thread was originally about huh? LOL


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Ouch. I hope you understand the relationship between the two cams needs to be precisely kept the way it was, or you risk damaging your engine like a broken timing belt, or at least have to rip it all back apart to realign the two cams...?

I AM not going to touch the other cam, the seal is good and there is no leaks. Hec no, i am not messing with the timing belt cam shaft. I only took off 1 cam.
I did NOT take the 1 camshaft off of the cam chains. it was very unnecessary. The alignment is the same as it was before, i prayyyyy everything starts up correctly. 
My only guess to F everything up would be to overtighten or break the 13mm screw thats on the camshaft. however, It just clicked when it torqued it to 15nm and went to 10Nm. Good deal.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Imola Yellow GTi* »_My Bentley says the same thing in addition to the dabs of sealant at the bends before applying the VC gasket. I'll scan it in tonight.
Note that the tensioner gasket has some blue stuff already applied in that shaded section on the tensioner gasket in your pic. Is that sealant?

i just went crazy with the sealant, NO LEAKS for me!!! it doesn't matter really, i find it to be right to oversealant it. as i will never be taking my engine cover off ever again! I hope!


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_What about the cam tensioner seal???? Have you changed that? Thats what this thread was originally about huh? LOL

yes, its up, re read again. Its super easy to change out.
However, i am NOT doing the camshaft timing cam seal. hell no.
I wouldnt recommend changing it out to anyone.


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Ah, ok i see now! Great work! I think you have made me a little more confident in doing mine on thursday. I hope mine goes smooth. I miss my car


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

Have you started it up yet?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_Have you started it up yet?

the sealant needs 24hours for sealing, and i will start it sometime today.
scary thought if something goes wrong, but i see i did nothing to prevoke something to go wrong. well, i will get started soon.....

here goes.......


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

Started car, everything went black, possible dead battery? i think sooo...

started it!!! and it worked!!
Now, a check engine light went on...
SIGH...... if only i had a OBD2 scanner


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

damn but its running smooth and no oil leaks?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_damn but its running smooth and no oil leaks?

It was scary, i went to start the car and the whole car shut off. I noticed that my battery was near being dead. But i started it up a second time and BAM, it started with No weird noises. 
Well i wont know until i clean the area very good with electronics cleaner and let the engine run for a few days or so.
I ran the car hard and it feels great like it did before. Smooth.......
The one thing i noticed what was different is that annoying TICKING NOISE went BYE BYE. I am Happy about that.
Now why is my check engine light on. Hey i just did my timing belt at the Dealer, Maybe i can blame it on them that something went wrong when they replaced.... hmmm? Evil.







than again, the dealer is eviler, ha.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

lol.....
Nobody start their gasket until i find out why my check engine light is on!
thank you.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

tick tick tick... tick tick tick... booooom!!!
sike! looks like you did well.


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

well too bad you arent closer i have vag com. Im doin mine tomorrow so give me a few days and i will see if i have a light come on afterwards http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_well too bad you arent closer i have vag com. Im doin mine tomorrow so give me a few days and i will see if i have a light come on afterwards http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


aw yeah u live too far away.
well i went to the dealer and blamed it on the timing belt.. lol, and i told him i had a dead batttery on the weekend. 
The dealer said they would charge me 120 for a diagnostic check, i said, I can't afford that right now and bring my car back, i am not signing anything, its too expensive, and the guy said he would just scan the codes for free since i had prior service done. 
Well , here are my check engine light codes!

P1539
clutch pedal switch, implausible signal sporadic
P1602
power supply B+ terminal 30 sporadic
P1340
Camshaft position sensor-G40, Engine speed sensor G28
Incorrect allocation


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

when i was getting the P1340 my cam timing chain and sprockets were off a tooth
the engine speed was prolly cuz u scanned it with the car off


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (cashmoneyflo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *cashmoneyflo* »_when i was getting the P1340 my cam timing chain and sprockets were off a tooth
the engine speed was prolly cuz u scanned it with the car off


hmmm.........
Well i never took off the cam chain from the tooth. Never removed it from the chain and the sprocket itself. SO i have not a clue.
I am hoping the car just needs to readjust itself after having a dead battery.
thanks


----------



## VWAUDITEK (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Should have left the cam in place and lifted the tensioner.Between this thread and the other guy doing his timing belt and spinning the cam independent of the crank to "line up the marks" (bending his own valves,lol)you guys are messing uo your cars left & right!
The internet is a good thing,but it is also a bad thing,where it instills false confidence into people and making them think they can do "complex repairs" because they "saw it on the internetz"......


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (VWAUDITEK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWAUDITEK* »_Should have left the cam in place and lifted the tensioner.Between this thread and the other guy doing his timing belt and spinning the cam independent of the crank to "line up the marks" (bending his own valves,lol)you guys are messing uo your cars left & right!
The internet is a good thing,but it is also a bad thing,where it instills false confidence into people and making them think they can do "complex repairs" because they "saw it on the internetz"......









so than what do you suggest i do??? I only removed the left camshaft and everything aligned the same, i don't get it? can you help me in anyway? suggestions?


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_
so than what do you suggest i do??? I only removed the left camshaft and everything aligned the same, i don't get it? can you help me in anyway? suggestions?

until u get a answer, i wouldnt drive it just to be safe


----------



## VWAUDITEK (Dec 26, 2006)

*Re: (cashmoneyflo)*

You may have possibly installed the trigger wheel for the cam sensor incorrectly OR damaged the cam sensor OR you did mess up the timing even though you THINK it was re-installed correctly.
I mean nothing personal,I am just stating as a professional mechanic that these are not toys,and a LOT of people end up costing themselves more TIME & MONEY by "screw it yourself" than having a professional do the work in the first place.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_so than what do you suggest i do???

you were only supposed to use tool 3366 compress the tensioner which then allows you to lift the tensioner in order to take out the tension gasket and half moon gasket and thus reverse to install the new ones. that's it!!!
also you are supposed to count the chain rollers as insurance.


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (TAIVWAUDITECH)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TAIVWAUDITECH* »_That is too much work.I simply decompress the tensioner,unbolt & raise the tensioner,slide out the old gasket & half moon,irrigate/clean the surfaces with carb spray,install the new half moon & gasket,bolt it back down and de-compress.All done.. 

How about you come up with a picture DIY?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

On my lunch right now, working late at work, but my Check engine light went away....... Vanished....
I am hoping it re-adjusted itself. 
oh boy, i was the real guinea pig and so was my car.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (VWAUDITEK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWAUDITEK* »_You may have possibly installed the trigger wheel for the cam sensor incorrectly OR damaged the cam sensor OR you did mess up the timing even though you THINK it was re-installed correctly.
I mean nothing personal,I am just stating as a professional mechanic that these are not toys,and a LOT of people end up costing themselves more TIME & MONEY by "screw it yourself" than having a professional do the work in the first place. 


your absolutely right, the CAMSHAFT is not a toy and should not be removed at all.

I should have just removed the tensioner slightly and not replaced the cam shaft gasket.
THE CEL is gone for right now, i won't touch anything until i get it another one. Maybe the cam sensor got oil on it? that is my only guess, i was VERY gentle with it. so... 
it took me 16hours of staring for 3 days to make sure i did not put anything in incorrectly and made sure i took extra pictures to see what i was doing, and made sure the torque was the same as before. Extra paranoid i was. Will things be ok? only time will tell....


----------



## TAIVWAUDITECH (Dec 23, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Well I sincerely wish you the best of luck,and hope everything is OK.This was not directed at you,it was more for the readers of this thread contemplating trying this,and maybe they will think more about the ramifications of incorrect disassembly/assembly.
It mayhave gotten that code upon startup if the tensioner has no oil pressure in it and affected alignment(?)
Hopefully code won't come back!


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Danielo_bolo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Danielo_bolo* »_
How about you come up with a picture DIY?


Then he couldn't charge $300 to do the job.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (TAIVWAUDITECH)*

thank you 
Code came back, it keeps being Sporadic, off and on. CEL comes and goes, odd? I just need a OBD 2 scanner or someone in CA with a vagcom.. that may help. however...
Alright, as we all know i DID NOT remove the CAMSHAFT SPROCKET from the CAM CHAIN.
I did not remove the timing camshaft
I did however, remove the sprocket camshaft from the 13mm bolt
My only guess what is wrong, this idea, is, I NEED someone to find out what torque i need to tighten, i need to know in FOOT lbs, here is the tool i am using... Someone said something about it spinning loosely or something. but heres the example.

THIS BOLT, 13mm








This is the torque i will be using, so what torque do i use?









TAIVWAUDITECH, any word on this? you see all of pictures of what i have done. I took pictures in sections of what i did. sooo... help?
thank you.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

"Incorrect allocation" makes no sense. The torque on the bolt doesn't matter, as long as the window wheel isn't free spinning, which shouldn't take much torque at all. Sounds like you have the cams off a tooth, ie incorrect CORRELATION. lol


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_"Incorrect allocation" makes no sense. The torque on the bolt doesn't matter, as long as the window wheel isn't free spinning, which shouldn't take much torque at all. Sounds like you have the cams off a tooth, ie incorrect CORRELATION. lol 

It doesn't make any sense, if i never took the camshaft off of the chain, what would make it jump a tooth? sounds random? the dealer said my timing, on my timing belt was looking good. Not related to this new CEL.
if thats the cause i will take off the valve cover gasket and take some pictures.
by the way the ticking noise came back, it sounds, loose at idle... hmmm??
what was it, count 16 tooths or something? i WILL post pictures of my cam chain high def pics.
thanks adam


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

when my timing was off 1 tooth the CEL would come on and go off every couple of days.
yeah incorrect correlation is what was on mine. not allocation


----------



## TAIVWAUDITECH (Dec 23, 2006)

*Re: (cashmoneyflo)*

Either way,something is off,you have to read the Bentley and get a grasp oif the subject,it will be easier to understand then,.Don't worry so much about tq. values when you have yet to grasp the principles of crank/cam & cam/cam phasing.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_
It doesn't make any sense, if i never took the camshaft off of the chain, what would make it jump a tooth? ....if thats the cause i will take off the valve cover gasket and take some pictures.
by the way the ticking noise came back, it sounds, loose at idle... hmmm??



Anyone remember my warning long ago in this thread? 

_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Ouch. I hope you understand the relationship between the two cams needs to be precisely kept the way it was, or you risk damaging your engine like a broken timing belt, or at least have to rip it all back apart to realign the two cams...?


Consider it a warning for anyone else as well. Good luck BTW, 1.8Tjettta01. I hope it turns out alright for you and you get it sorted. I wasn't there so I can't say how it got effed up like that.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Just my







; I would probably invest in a better torque wrench...
Hoping this turns out to be something simple; really hoping to use this as a basis for when I change mine. 
Best of luck


----------



## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Man I just did this last weekend as well. Nice job with the write up. 
However Im leaking a lot of oil from the driver side now, I have a feeling my half-moon or flat-gasket didnt seal right.... 
I need to open the whole thing back up tomorrow and check.... Since I just replaced the gaskets do you think I can just reseal them? Or should I go get new ones again?


----------



## grec745 (Jul 18, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (judoGTI)*

Wow i had to change the tensioner gasket on my 99 passat and i didnt have any trouble, i just made it a point to stay away from the cams. 
the only thing that sucks is that i have to do the work again ( i think) becasue now im having a loud ticking noise only under load so i think its the cam tensioner..
heres to double the work and trying to save a few bucks... it always bites u in the ass















Good luck


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Hey i just got finished with mine yesterday. My gaskets came a day early







All i did was remove the valve cover, released tension on the chain with the tensioner tool, remove the 4 tensioner bolts, lift up as stated earlier in this thread and swapped out the gaskets, using sealant of course. I didnt remove the cams because thank god i had a buddy tell me the cam lobes are what kept the valves in place and under tension and that they may have popped up if we had reoved the cams. Didnt want to take any chances.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_Hey i just got finished with mine yesterday. My gaskets came a day early







All i did was remove the valve cover, released tension on the chain with the tensioner tool, remove the 4 tensioner bolts, lift up as stated earlier in this thread and swapped out the gaskets, using sealant of course. I didnt remove the cams because thank god i had a buddy tell me the cam lobes are what kept the valves in place and under tension and that they may have popped up if we had reoved the cams. Didnt want to take any chances. 

your buddy seems to know alot. could ask him about my thread? thanks.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_I didnt remove the cams because thank god i had a buddy tell me *the cam lobes are what kept the valves in place *and under tension and that they may have popped up if we had reoved the cams. Didnt want to take any chances. 

This is not true, the valve springs keep tension on the valves and the keepers keep them in place under tension of the springs.


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

See i did not know that. Wasnt taking any chances tho lol i just started mine up and took it for a spin, no leaks and is running smooth. Ima scan the ecu for codes tho pending codes right now.............


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

just took more pics of my cam shaft chain.
take a look...... in 5mins


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

No codes for me so yea id say something is off man. **** sux i kno


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

1 lil piggy, 2 lil piggy.. 3... little.... piggy......
so 16 it is? so do the pictures do justice?











_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_




























_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 5:31 PM 4-16-2009_


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

ok my understanding is that the chain is only a certain length so once its all back together, its still gonna be ''16 links'' apart regardless. What you should be worried about is if you accidently rotated the cam a slight bit, thus skipping a tooth. Are the white marks you put still on the sprocket and chain still there as a reference?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

I can't see the white marks anymore...
i think they are underneath
sucksss


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

There should be timing marks on the sprockets. Im not a hundred percent sure of that but there should be.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

Edit: here is a stock cam tensioner. I am going to borrow this picture for a while.
Source: http://www.passatworld.com/for...15732

it looks like the cam tensioners height is different and lower than mine. Mine is higher up, maybe it needs to be depressed? I need expert advice. I am just guessing from here on









here is mine!








1 more picture.... high definition


_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 1:39 AM 4-17-2009_


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)




----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Nice photo editing


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

If you look again, your 16th should line up with the timing mark as per the diagram


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

what i did notice is the 13mm was too tight and the tensioner lifted up
i think i see why it has to be 10lbs of torque
only when i go passed 10lbs of torque the tensioner squishes/depresses down..
MAYBE i am hopeing this is the cause?
Edit( WRROOONNGGGG))) check engine light came back on!! arggh!
Edit, Incorrect Allocation means something different from Incorrect CORRELATION. I think
EDIT:
_Quote, originally posted by *tdogg74* »_You bunch of noobs....
Jack your front passenger wheel off the ground and put the car in 3rd gear. Turn your engine over by turning your wheel. Makes timing WAY easier. 
And forget that stupid mark on the flywheel! Use the arrow on the lower timing belt cover and the notch on the crank gear.

the vag number is 17748
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...04928

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:16 PM 4-16-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:47 PM 4-16-2009_


_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 1:06 AM 4-17-2009_


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

another image
17748 is the vag number


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_what i did notice is the 13mm was too tight and the tensioner lifted up
i think i see why it has to be 10lbs of torque
only when i go passed 10lbs of torque the tensioner squishes/depresses down..
MAYBE i am hopeing this is the cause?
Edit( WRROOONNGGGG))) check engine light came back on!! arggh!
Edit, Incorrect Allocation means something different from Incorrect CORRELATION. I think
the vag number is 17748
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...04928

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:16 PM 4-16-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 7:47 PM 4-16-2009_

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3215257


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

FYI - Bentley says 7 lb-ft tightening the bolts holding down the tensioner


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

Its friday and i want to know if its safe to drive?
if my gas mileage and performance is the only thing what will be affected than it don't matter to me.
assuming that i am off 1 cam chain link and not my timing belt, i should be ok
anyone beg to differ?


----------



## judoGTI (Mar 5, 2002)

*FV-QR*

I bought the kit from the Blauparts website and I recommend for the flat seal people grab one from the dealer. That part goes inbetween high pressure oil 'lines' and the one that came with the blau kit was really flimsy and almost cardboard. This is what was causing my leak, the one from the dealer is definitely more firm and clearly made of metal. Just my .02, its probably really cheap from the dealer so I would get the kit from blau and then just get the one extra seal from the dealer.


----------



## TAIVWAUDITECH (Dec 23, 2006)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

Your intake cam is off one tooth,that is why your code is there and your tensioner is riding "high".Move the intake cam 1 tooth.


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_









You're looking at the picture slightly incorrect, which is why the edited pic doesn't help. The black lines you've made are from the little dots on the cam caps. The picture in the center shows little "slots" in the cams themselves. I'll see if I can get a pic to show that. I can't believe someone else hasn't posted one so we can get this 16 links alignment thing squared away before people start bending valves right and left after moving cams haha. Your white marks were almost on spot, but you had to mark where the window in the cam was - the chain is pretty much irrelevant as long as there are 16 links between the two windows. Ok... here's a link to the thread you got the pic of the white out marks from (http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215732). That may help you get your head wrapped around the timing issue you have. If not... you can faintly see the little "slots"/"windows" that you need to have 16 links between in this pic 







. 

I'm too tired to put marks pointing to it.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

thank you, maybe tommorrow u can post a better pic? edited? take your time, no rush this friday night.
thanks let me know.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

Folks, how large of a 6-pt torx key do I need to undo the bolts securing the tensioner? Thanks!


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Imola Yellow GTi* »_Folks, how large of a 6-pt torx key do I need to undo the bolts securing the tensioner? Thanks!

T-30 torx


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (1.8Tjettta01)*

Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*

Got an issue now!!! I disconnected everything connected to the valve cover but the cover won't come off.
Has anyone run into this issue? Any suggestions so I can remove the valve cover? I'm so close and have researched and read and reread over and over so many DIYs not only on the 1.8T forum on 'tex but also other VW and Audi sites.


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

im guessing you took all the nuts off of it.
they can be kind of stuck on. gently try and pry a screw driver in there. 
maybe try a little pb plaster to free the gasket from the vc


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Imola Yellow GTi* »_Got an issue now!!! I disconnected everything connected to the valve cover but the cover won't come off.
Has anyone run into this issue? Any suggestions so I can remove the valve cover? I'm so close and have researched and read and reread over and over so many DIYs not only on the 1.8T forum on 'tex but also other VW and Audi sites.


irritating isn't? 
I bet it know what it is, its the DV line!!!
Sooo if your looking at your engine, its the valve cover screw closest to the driver side.
bend it with a flat head screw driver.... its near your TIP. take a flashlight there. it connects to the bottom of the TIP to the line.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (1.8Tjettta01)*

I counted 9 securing nuts removed from the valve cover.
I'm not following what you're describing.


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensio ... (Imola Yellow GTi)*

**** man, do not bend anything...
use two nuts to remove the stud... you are talking about the right top corner correct ? when looking at your engine..

I ran into this same thing... my DIY has some pictures of how I did this..
It is in spanish, but go to step 5 and you will find the pics... our you could translate the page using google...
http://mijettaapesta.googlepages.com/valvecover
DO NOT BEND ANYTHING!!!


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

ohh the hardline in top right corner....
i just used a wrench and pushed it back enough to wiggle the cover up through haha
worked fine for me


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (cashmoneyflo)*

that stupid hose, i bent it a little bit so i could get my valve cover off. Ever so slightly.
Its called the HARDLINE yes. it connects from the bottom of the TIP.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Folks,
I haven't even gotten to the point I'm bumping into that hose.
I can't even move the valve cover off the gasket. It's almost as if it's stuck for good.
I'm going to try a putty knife and rubber mallet tonight. Cross my fingers.


----------



## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (Imola Yellow GTi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Imola Yellow GTi* »_Folks,
I haven't even gotten to the point I'm bumping into that hose.
I can't even move the valve cover off the gasket. It's almost as if it's stuck for good.
I'm going to try a putty knife and rubber mallet tonight. Cross my fingers.

Try running the engine for a few minutes (with the 9 bolts off) until it loosens up - you'll see oil start to seep out. 
When this happened to me, doing this loosened it up enough so that I could lift off the valve cover.
I didn't want to pry it with any tools so as to not damage the mating surfaces for the gasket.

_Modified by herb2k at 12:30 PM 4-21-2009_


_Modified by herb2k at 12:44 PM 4-21-2009_


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (Imola Yellow GTi)*

OK if you got all 9 screws off, the spark plug connectors off and the wiring off, and asuming you took off the additional vacuum reservoir screws as well. you are good to go.
than all you have to do is use a flathead screw driver and pry it off. You can use force on this part. don't be scared.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Wacked it with a rubber mallet. It came off!!!
How compressed should the tensioner be with tool 3366?


_Modified by Imola Yellow GTi at 8:18 PM 4-21-2009_


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (Imola Yellow GTi)*

Good news! It's done!
Man the tensioner even with tool 3366 is still a pain.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

glad to hear you got it done. 
I have to edit my DIY and remove the part of removing the camshaft. because apartly, that part never needed to come out.
well goodjob!! hope everything is sealed! clean the edges to see what happens afterwards.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Was very surprised how secure the chain was even when tugging at the tensioner to gain clearance to remove/reinstall the tensioner gaskets.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

i bet you thats the answer to my problem
Because mine was very loose when i installed it.
if your saying the chain was barely even loose, that means mine should be tighter. Meaning, i am 1link off. mk


----------



## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

if you take the chain tensioneer out and marked the intake and exhaust manifold and as well on the chain, will that chain come off with the sprocket at the bottom too?
I'm just curious about it since I have something leaking as well. No drips thou but I will do it soon too.


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

So I just started it up and upon first start up the exhaust blew out a little whitish smoke but then everything was AOK. I went for a run with my father following behind and he didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
However, when I parked the car and shutdown, I noticed slight smoking (heat dissipation?) leaking out from the driverside of the hood line.
*I'll continue to monitor but do you folks think everything is OK and that this is typical of first startup after a VC/tensioner gasket maintenance?*


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

thats hard to say, when that happened to me i got oil in the spark plugs.
just take a flash light to the hood after you have driven for a lil bit
just keep an eye out on it and keep driving around near your area in case if u need to go on a long trip, drive the car, shut it down, start it up. repeat.
when you fix 1 problem another problem arises!


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

No white smoke this morning. Must of been moisture that got in while the cover and hoses were disconnected. Now for the oil change.
BTW, torque to 10Nm as 7 lb-ft is less than 10Nm.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

sounds good
and i got my tensioner depresser in the mail
gonna start tommorrow and count 16links and get it on 16. 
i guess thats it, we will see. goodnightz until tommorrow


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

alright i moved the chain over to 16links, we will see what happens i am going to take a picture before startup


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

cranked it over a bit.... what do u guys think?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

another picture of the chains edited.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

count the chains! does everything add up?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_count the chains! does everything add up? 

Are the cam shaft windows where you have the marks? You AGAIN have made lines from the cam caps. The cam caps are 100% irrelevant to the 16 links. If the cam SHAFT windows are not where those lines are then who knows if it's right or not.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (04VDubGLI)*

your kidding me? its irrelevant??? 
sounds like a longer process, ughh
how and the hec do i line up the cam windows??? is there a way to do that?
that means i would have to move the timing belt somehow? How do i move the chains while the battery is unhooked?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

so what your saying i need to use those little markers and line up the windows of the 
"camshaft sprocket?"
how do i crank both cams at the same time with the car is off? is there a way?


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_your kidding me? its irrelevant??? 
sounds like a longer process, ughh
how and the hec do i line up the cam windows??? is there a way to do that?
that means i would have to move the timing belt somehow? How do i move the chains while the battery is unhooked?









The marks you need 16 links between are the ones on the camshafts... pictured here again. Those marks are the ones that "time" the cams. You could count 16 links between the two cam shafts like 1000 different ways... and only 1 of them is in time.
To get those two "windows" on the CAMS to the top, you need to have the car at top dead center - that doesn't always apply, but we know your car is only a tooth out likely, so it can be at TDC and be within a link one way or the other. To do that you need to line up the timing mark on the cam gear and/or the crank pulley. You can turn the car over manually with a wrench and socket on the crank nut.


_Modified by 04VDubGLI at 6:01 PM 4-24-2009_


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

so grab two wrenches, pull down on them both at the same time on both of the exhaust cam and intake cam bolt. that way they both move right?
let me show u a picture again

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 3:11 PM 4-24-2009_

_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 3:29 PM 4-24-2009_


_Modified by 1.8Tjettta01 at 3:42 PM 4-24-2009_


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

on the sprocket... not the square cam caps


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

more pictures!


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

The only way to orientate the sprocket marks as seen on the diagram you posted is to have the cams at TDC position


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

Question is, HOW do i get them at top dead center?


----------



## Imola Yellow GTi (Oct 27, 2000)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


----------



## Jesse_717 (Jul 3, 2008)

i wouldnt just start guessing by moving ur chain around on the sprockets. that could be bad


----------



## 04VDubGLI (May 20, 2005)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_more pictures!


















Those are the window things... you've got it now. Get 16 links between those and it should be in time (assuming that the cam gear is in time with the bottom end of course). Now, as the pic shows, you can get to TDC by aligning the cam timing mark with the one on the head. At that point those two windows will be darn near the exact top on your setup. Then you can get the 16 links thing working relative to the cam caps.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

thanks for your help, but i give uppp, the check engine light came back on... sigh.....
I made the mistake of taking out the intake camshaft which i wasn't supposed to, now i have to pay for it. sigh...
there goes my tax refund
i'm taking it to a professional next week.


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

How about turning the engine to a TDC position? (by removing the bottom timing belt cover and turning the engine by hand using a wrench.)
Then take the cover off, and align the cam shaft(s) to the TDC marks.
Setting the cam chain back on
and voila!
Would this work?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

i swear i should just use a webcam so u guys can see what i am doing. ha. probally shoulda done that from the begining.
danielo, do you which bolts to turn?
the thing is, how do i know i won't mess up something by turning the engine by hand?


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

When everything is connected as you have it now (because you have run the car) there is no messing up....
All you are doing is turning the engine by hand while everything is in place... There is a DIY somewhere here that also covers how to place the engine at TDC. I'll look for it and post the link.
Once you have TDC, then the misalignment on the cam will be very obvious. Since you are now an expert on removing the cam then you should be able to move it back one tooth to the correct alignment.


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (Danielo_bolo)*

You take the timing belt bottom cover. To get access to the engine turn bolt.
You take the timing belt top cover for the alignment marks (if you have any) If not then you have to pull the tranny plug n the other side to align the engine.
Then you use a 12point XX size socket to turn the engine
















And to me this is the ultimate DIY for timing belt... This one has info on what exactly you need to align the engine

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2271429


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (Danielo_bolo)*

by the way, when placing the engine at TDC, remove the spark plugs...
So you do not start compressing air like a mad man


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Yea you dont need to go to a prof. Just turn the crank to TDC and then realign the cams. Simple. If you take out the very left spark plug, you should be able to see when the piston hits the Very Top position and then is back on the way down. If you have to, shine a light down the plug hole.


----------



## T_DiJames (Apr 24, 2009)

You do not have to take out the cam/tensioner at all to do this job. Cam timing does not need to be altered. Leave the cam in compress the tensioner and just take the bolts out holding the tensioner then your can access the seal and half moon


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (T_DiJames)*

that was agreed a long time ago, please read the whole topic...
we are treying to help him correct his tming now...


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (Danielo_bolo)*

thank you danielo, when i have my next day off i will try and take a picture, i am just getting frustrated, thats why i want to take it to a professionally. i am hoping i can find the timing mark on that little sprocket.
so are those white marks on the picture you posted Top Dead Center???


----------



## Danielo_bolo (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

No those white marks are just alignment marks for the timing belt... I was just showing where you need to torque..
Yeah man, I hear you... sometimes I wish I had the money to drop and have someone do the repairs but then again I have a VW ... and I am not rich... hahaha


----------



## ReverendHorton (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: (Danielo_bolo)*

is this process any different on the AWD engine code? my bentley is of the CD variety and at work so I can't check now. I believe I have this same oil leak or a similar one, but I know there are some differences in the cams from AWD -> AWW, AWP.


----------



## ahilleas10 (Jan 11, 2009)

*Re: (ReverendHorton)*

if you whant to turn your motor on TDC and you do not have the key for crankshaft 12-19 ,first reise one wheel front put a gear fifth and tur the wheel,second method is to flat surfece lose the handbrake put a gear fifth and pull the car from the front slowly antill the marks from the camshaft alig whit the mark on the head, then you can see the slots on the cams(is like squares)to alig whit the arows you show on the tensionner . the rest you now make the change to the tooth .whish you luck PS after you turn the motor put out the gear and pull the handbrake





















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## mark_chan (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

Don't buy from Blau parts!! They sent me the wrong windshield wipers!!!!


----------



## mark_chan (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*


----------



## MkIVwarrior (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (mark_chan)*

just did my gasket yesterday this DIY was very helpful thanks!


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (mark_chan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mark_chan* »_Don't buy from Blau parts!! They sent me the wrong windshield wipers!!!!
gimme a ****ing break man one guy gets the wrong part and wants to down a company, GTFOH!!!!!


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (MkIVwarrior)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MkIVwarrior* »_just did my gasket yesterday this DIY was very helpful thanks!

glad to hear i helped someone out.
yeah its real simple, expect for the thing i did. heh.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (mark_chan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mark_chan* »_Don't buy from Blau parts!! They sent me the wrong windshield wipers!!!!


hahahahaha thats just funny now. U should give them a call if u got something different. they are very good.


----------



## MkIVwarrior (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

update?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (MkIVwarrior)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MkIVwarrior* »_update?

engine is always too hot when i want to do it. i've been working 48hours a week and its wares me out. sorry. i am hoping to do it soon. there will be a video soon.


----------



## MkIVwarrior (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

alrite, im watching the thread to see how this works out for you. Im pulling my entire tensioner tonight.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

UPDATED the thread to be easier to understand!


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (MkIVwarrior)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MkIVwarrior* »_alrite, im watching the thread to see how this works out for you. Im pulling my entire tensioner tonight.

how did your tensior adjustment go?


----------



## Macrotechie (Jul 26, 2009)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

I'm doing mine now. I'm having trouble lifting up the piece that the gasket sits under enough to pull it out. I can only lift it up a couple millimeters.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (Macrotechie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Macrotechie* »_I'm doing mine now. I'm having trouble lifting up the piece that the gasket sits under enough to pull it out. I can only lift it up a couple millimeters.









yes its a pain but u thats all u need to work with. you should have someone help u with it.
Remember the moon seal is rubber and can be bent. I bent mine slightly at an angle and popped it in. The flat seal is a pain and requires another person. goodluck!


----------



## Macrotechie (Jul 26, 2009)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_
yes its a pain but u thats all u need to work with. you should have someone help u with it.
Remember the moon seal is rubber and can be bent. I bent mine slightly at an angle and popped it in. The flat seal is a pain and requires another person. goodluck!

Yeah, I got the wifey out to help. I managed to pop the moon back in like you said. Eventually, I got the flat seal in too. 
Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences.


----------



## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (Macrotechie)*

apparently i have to do all of my seals this week too. i had a vac leak to fix and while i was under there, i noticed the whole driver's side of my engine was coated in oil.. and i also found fresh oil on my tip.. 6 vac leaks and now leaky gaskets just after i lose my job... wonderful timing! lol...


----------



## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (turbo2205)*

well i replaced the seals today and it was alot easier than i thought it'd be. to get the old moon and cct gaskets out, clean the surfaces, and put the new ones in (greased of course) took about 1.5hrs. the rest of the time was spent cleaning out the old vc gasket and i took the time to [email protected]$$ clean my vc inside n out.
however, when it came time to take 3366 out, the bolt for it came out but the tool didn't. i lightly pushed up on it with a pick and it popped out but my cct didn't move... cranked the engine over by hand and done. put everything back together and it's a-ok.
_Modified by turbo2205 at 12:33 PM 9-16-2009_

_Modified by turbo2205 at 12:25 PM 9-19-2009_


_Modified by turbo2205 at 3:03 AM 9-27-2009_


----------



## AutoMeister (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1.8Tjettta01* »_










Can I change the half moon and flat gasket seal shown in this image without having to use the VW special tool and adjust the chain tension?
I have a vacuum leak coming from the half moon and need to change it but I do not want to have to mess around with the chain in any way...


----------



## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

How many times have i told you YES!?!? Think this is #3...


----------



## AutoMeister (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

I am just seeking a second opinion as I have been told false information before in these forums. It is not that I do not trust you, I just do not know you, yet. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (AutoMeister)*

first hand experience > people talking out of their ass


----------



## AutoMeister (Jun 22, 2004)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

I agree


----------



## RockyMountainB5 (Nov 8, 2009)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

Great DIY. I used this today to do my valve cover gasket and cam tensioner gaskets.
I used the audi tool to hold down the tensioner - worked great. Tried not to overtighten since i have heard the tool breaks.
Thanks alot for the great info in this DIY, helped me tons.
One side note, on my A4 2001 1.8t (awm) the PCV and crankcase breather hoses had to be moved in order to get the valve cover off. The rubber hoses connecting these metal tubes together were fused to the metal tubes. They had to be cut - shaved off, and replaced with new hose from Napa. It took longer than the whole rest of the job.


----------



## bcruze (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

Need a little help here...
I'm in the process of doing this right now...I've got the CCT piston compressed with the 3366 tool and both gaskets replaced. While I was putting the flat metal gasket in, the whole CCT kinda 'jumped' up and removed all the slack in the chain. Now, I can't get it to seat back flush with the block so I can screw it down, there's a big gap and the whole CCT seems to be pivoting on one point down in the well where the 336 tool screws in.








It seems like it's popped out of some hole or channel down in the block and I can't get it to wiggle back into position.
Also of note, I marked the position of the piston with the tool installed and removed the tool...the piston didn't extend any.








Any ideas?


----------



## bcruze (Jan 23, 2002)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (bcruze)*

Well, I got it back together but I'm kinda concerned.
Assuming the bottom guide on the piston was popping loose and extending, I pushed down on the top of the CCT and felt it retracting a little so I put all four bolts in and slowly cranked it back down so that it's flush and mounted correctly. I removed the 3366 tool and the top piston extended and I have full tension on the chain now. Before putting everything back together for good, I cranked it down and unbolted it a couple times, each time the bottom piston would pop and take the slack out of the chain.
What I'm worried about is the possibility of the bottom piston over-extending and pushing the chain into the engine block. If that's the case, when I start it (I haven't yet, waiting on coil packs) the chain will constantly rub against the block...not good.
Any ideas? Anyone every heard of a CCT failing this way?


----------



## stv1der (Feb 3, 2009)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

where did you buy the replacement kit? Great diy I'm gonna need it soon http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: (stv1der)*

stv1der its on the front of the page. Page 1
the 3rd link


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (bcruze)*

bcruze,
Make your own thread in the 1.8T Forum, that problem is out of my hands, i can't help you. Remember to take pictures so we can see whats going on.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (AutoMeister)*


_Quote, originally posted by *AutoMeister* »_
Can I change the half moon and flat gasket seal shown in this image without having to use the VW special tool and adjust the chain tension?
I have a vacuum leak coming from the half moon and need to change it but I do not want to have to mess around with the chain in any way...










NOPE!!!! go spend some money on one on ebay and than sell it again. simple. Or buy or sell one on the forums if u can find it.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

yep.


----------



## AJEngen (May 4, 2006)

*Re: (1.8Tjettta01)*

Thanks a lot for this guide!


----------



## volksspoolen (Feb 13, 2005)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

Hey, I'm about to do this, but I don't have the sealant. I have some D 176 404 A2 sealant left over from changing my sister's TDI oil pan, will that work? Bently specifies AMV 174 004 01 sealant for the vc gasket. Only reason I ask is that I'm about an hour from a dealer TIA
--or what's a Advanced Auto equivalent/ what is that loctite product you have there, hard to tell from the pictures


_Modified by volksspoolen at 8:14 PM 1-27-2010_


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Re: DIY How to replace valve cover gasket plus cam tensioner gasket / half moon seal (1.8Tjettta01)*

Youtube Videos Uploaded 4-17-10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqk1f_nMfn4 part 1 10mins
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy-UVCEvYrk part2 10mins


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

finally was able to upload videos! 
any questions please post here or on youtube videos.


----------



## alwarnecke (Jan 19, 2010)

First of all, great guide. I started doing this and I got stuck on tensioning the cam adjuster. Here's my problem:

- I used the tool (#3366) with a T30 bit and started tightening.
- I felt more and more resistance, but after only a few turns (5 or 6 maybe?) it became really easy to turn. I have been tensioning for the past half hour, and the chain is still not loose.
- I tried to remove the tool, and it is stuck.

So what's going on here? Did I maybe strip the tool or what? I hardly tensioned it before it got real easy to turn, and it definitely wasn't close to being snug. What do I do now?


----------



## teknine (Aug 31, 2001)

(2) Things real quick which I learned the hard way...


- You will bust hoses if you're not careful. When you remove the breather from the valve cover intake DO IT GENTLY. You will either rip that hose directly or others attached to it if your not careful.

- The old gasket has metal 'O' Rings where the block threads through. In my case while pulling off the old gasket one of the rings decided to separate and stay behind on the screw without me noticing (Rear one so I couldn't see it).. So I put in new gasket, tightned everything up and Oil sprayed everywhere upon ignition due to it not sealing correct. So everything had to come off again.

Thanks for the write up. Helped alot. 

I didn't use sealant on the gasket but on the flat/moon seals I did.


----------



## latinbeatz (Sep 9, 2010)

I want to buy the 3366 tool, where can i get it???


----------



## joantlim (Aug 20, 2008)

Do i have to flush out my oil first before removing the valve cover? I'm just concern that a lot of oil might spill out when i try to open it. Also, instead of using Loctite RTV silicone gasket seal, can I use other brand? If I can, then what would be a better cheap brand?


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

joantlim said:


> Do i have to flush out my oil first before removing the valve cover? I'm just concern that a lot of oil might spill out when i try to open it. Also, instead of using Loctite RTV silicone gasket seal, can I use other brand? If I can, then what would be a better cheap brand?


No need to flush oil.

Don't cheap out on $3 silicone. That's if you decide to use any.


----------



## joantlim (Aug 20, 2008)

Thanks Ornith. I'll see if the dealership has that sealer (loctite). Also, do i need a torque wrench to tighten the screws of the valve cover? As you can see, it'll be my first time to remove a valve cover.


----------



## abramite1040 (May 21, 2010)

A few questions about this procedure ...

1) Do you tension the chain then remove the 4 bolts to lift it up? Or remove bolts then tension/compress?

2) When the flat/moon seal is installed, You push the tensioner down and secure the 4 bolts then decompress the tool? is there any specs, or do you just decompress till the tool comes out?

Thanks in advance

Also could you make a video that shows you actually doing the removal?


----------



## MisterJJ (Jul 28, 2005)

I tried the "no cam removal" method on a Passat and it was a fail. It's darn near impossible to properly clean out the area since it is right next to the firewall with the longitudinal mounted engine.

I did it again and removed the intake cam. Leak is gone! The car has over 170k miles and it had been leaking for a while. There was a crusty buildup in the half-moon seal area that had to be scraped with a razor blade. I would recommend pulling the cam if you've got a longitudinal mounted engine or high mileage or a long time leak. It's really not that hard. Just follow the procedure for marking the cam chain and there should be no problem.

P.S. I also found that in the large cam cap nearest the timing belt there are some small oil passageways that were blocked or partially blocked. So it was good to clean that out as well.


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

*interesting*

while doing this job, i have noticed some interesting things. 

question(s): 
1. do i need the notches on the cams to be aligned? (for instance, when i took off the valve cover, my cams werent in viewing position. this is not saying that mine arent aligned but the more important observation on this tread and the videos is, this wasnt explained. you talked about the alignment so was i supposed to ONLY do this job while aligned? my guess is its not nessary but since you are there with everything exposed, its a great idea to check so that you can close up the valve cover and rest assured that cams are aligned. please explain your thoughts.

2) my chain tensioner compressing tool cracked near the top but it still compressed it. although you dont explain this process in detail. you just add " tighten the tool to compress and then lift the tensioner and remove half moon and seal"
so, arent you suppose to use the compressing tool, then what? do you release the tool and it suppose to remain loose enough to remove and lift the tensioner or are you suppose to keep the tool tightened (which doesnt make sense because, after all, you are suppose to be lifting the tensioner apparatus so how could you with the tool tightened on there??)

I just feel there needs to be clarification on this major part of the processes because im going back to my car not understanding what to do. in the video, all you say it "so here is the slack in the chain after my tool is tighten to compress...now just light the tensioner" but you didnt do so in the video. ill compress and then try to see how to lift the moon out. 

thanks for the help thus far in your videos and on here but if anyone can explain this process in more detail that would help. i called the mechanics i used when i cant do projects myself or need pointers and they said " just wiggle the part to lift up the tenioner" but they didnt specify if i need to remove the compression tool or not. i just feel that when i release the tool from the compression and try to wiggle, the chain stairs to tighten again. maybe im not quick enought? haha that must be it. im genius.!!!:screwy:


----------



## chisai88 (Jan 10, 2003)

so, working on this today, took me about 30 min to get the valve cover off, and remove the valve cover gasket, and the spark plug area gasket...moving on to the tensioner/half moon, and I am having issues. I used the T30 torx to remove the 3 screws and then the specialty tool to raise up the area, so I can replace the half moon, and the other little piece...So, Can't get that area to raise up enough, did I miss a screw...the specialty tool broke, and it only raised the area amount a half centimeter, what am I missing...help would be appreciated...


----------



## cbelting (Sep 5, 2011)

*I agree with MisterJJ*

I started searching for an alternative method on the longitudinal engine and found this link http://www.passatworld.com/forums/6...732-how-replace-1-8t-cam-chain-tensioner.html - much easier.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

zactastic said:


> 2) my chain tensioner compressing tool cracked near the top but it still compressed it. although you dont explain this process in detail. you just add " tighten the tool to compress and then lift the tensioner and remove half moon and seal"
> so, arent you suppose to use the compressing tool, then what? do you release the tool and it suppose to remain loose enough to remove and lift the tensioner or are you suppose to keep the tool tightened (which doesnt make sense because, after all, you are suppose to be lifting the tensioner apparatus so how could you with the tool tightened on there??)
> 
> I just feel there needs to be clarification on this major part of the processes because im going back to my car not understanding what to do. in the video, all you say it "so here is the slack in the chain after my tool is tighten to compress...now just light the tensioner" but you didnt do so in the video. ill compress and then try to see how to lift the moon out.
> ...





chisai88 said:


> so, working on this today, took me about 30 min to get the valve cover off, and remove the valve cover gasket, and the spark plug area gasket...moving on to the tensioner/half moon, and I am having issues. I used the T30 torx to remove the 3 screws and then the specialty tool to raise up the area, so I can replace the half moon, and the other little piece...So, Can't get that area to raise up enough, did I miss a screw...the specialty tool broke, and it only raised the area amount a half centimeter, what am I missing...help would be appreciated...


I would REALLY appreciate answers to these questions! I'm doing this job this weekend and it seems like a lot of people have trouble with these steps. I would really like some additional info. I want this to go smoothly! Thanks! :thumbup:


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

I did this recently, I noted a couple of things that I thought made the job easy.

1) I jacked one drive wheel off the ground. (Use the drive wheel to rotate the engine)

2) With the engine in high gear rotated the engine to TDC (just in case I needed to remove a cam and so I knew where everything was in the engine)

3) Removed CAM cover 

4) I compressed tensioner with the special VW tool, careful to stop when it was hand tight and snug. Be careful the tensioner tool does not catch on any casting as it is screwed in (mine did).
The tensioner is basically a piston with chain runners that sits between the cams and pushes on the top and bottom chain runs. The tensioner is anchored to the head over the half moon seal. The VW tool effectively bolts across the piston to compress it producing slack in the top and bottom of the chain. Its this the top slack in the chain that allows the compressed tensioner to be raised to get at the half moon seal when you remove the holding bolts. 

5) Remove bolts holding tensioner down, at this point the tensioner can only be raised a small amount due to top slack in the chain. This clearance I found not enough to change the half moon easily. What I found needed to do is move the slack in the bottom run of chain to the top, I achieved this by doing the next step.

6) Move the engine a tiny fraction clockwise using the drive wheel. This moves the extra compressed slack on the chain from the bottom to the top and I gained a good working clearance. You could visibly see the metal over the half moon lift up as you fractionally moved the motor round.

7) Cleaned and change the half moon and gasket, aligned the plate and moved the engine a fraction anti-clockwise back to close the gap effectively moving half the chain slack back down.

8) replaced the tensioner bolts, remove VW tensioner tool.

9) new cover seal - job done

Note that the engine/cam movement is fractional, just enough to move enough chain slack from bottom to top. I stopped as soon as I had enough working clearance.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Thank you! Immensely helpful. Few quick questions.



Iangti7777 said:


> Be careful the tensioner tool does not catch on any casting *as in is screwed in* (mine did)


Is this supposed to be corrected to "as *it* is screwed in"?

Here are a few more questions.



So, forgive my naivete, but which direction is clockwise on the engine? If you rotate the driver's side wheel, which direction did you rotate it? How much would you say? An inch total rotation? Less?

I'm still a little unclear on the exact order of the following. Apply VW tensioner tool to hand tightness --> loosen bolts on tensioner --> rotate wheel a fraction to move engine clockwise --> replace half moon and flat seal --> rotate engine counter clockwise --> tighten bolts down OR release tensioner tool?? I assume torque tensioner bolts --> finish job and crack a cold one.

How do you know if you have moved the engine enough each direction?

Torque spec for all bolts on this job appear to be ~7 ft-lbs. Bolts on valve cover and tensioner bolts were both 7 ft-lbs from what I read.


Thanks again. As you can see, I'm a little green with this level of repair, but I'm looking at this as a big learning opportunity. I really appreciate the help.


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

Yes corrected.

First I apologise, I assumed you have a manual transmission. If you have an auto I am not sure you can turn the engine with the drive wheel. You would probably need to use the crank bolt.

Question - Which direction is clockwise on the engine? If you rotate the driver's side wheel, which direction did you rotate it? How much would you say? An inch total rotation? Less?

Looking from the Cam belt end you are looking to move the exhaust cam clockwise as this is the cam that is driven by the engine. You are looking to move it just enough to pick up the lower chain slack and move it to the top. The other cam should not move in this process, I guess its maybe a 1/2 tooth of rotation. But I did it by looking at the chain slack and making sure I did not move the other cam. 
If you have a manual rotate the engine in 4th gear with the drive wheel (in the direction of forward travel) a few times with the cam cover off before you start the job. This will give you a feeling of the gearing between the drive wheel and exhaust cam. Leave the engine at TDC.



Question I'm still a little unclear on the exact order of the following. Apply VW tensioner tool to hand tightness --> loosen bolts on tensioner --> rotate wheel a fraction to move engine clockwise --> replace half moon and flat seal --> rotate engine counter clockwise --> tighten bolts down OR release tensioner tool?? I assume torque tensioner bolts --> finish job and crack a cold one.

First I would recommend you start this job TDC
Note when I reference moving the cams below I mean using either the drive wheel or crank bolt


1) Apply VW tool hand tight, check as it compresses the black plastic part does not catch on the side casing.
2) Unscrew tensioner bolts and remove.
3) Carefully wiggle/prise the tensioner mount up so that its loose and it free to move, note its keyed into the head with circular pins.
4) Rotate the engine such that the exhaust cam moves very slightly clockwise, you will be able to move the tensioner body up further giving you working clearance. I suggest you move it a fraction, check, move again etc. The other inlet cam should not move in this process you are only moving chain slack around.
5) Remove old gaskets
5) Clean surfaces and inset new gaskets 
6) Check keys in tensioner and head line up
7) Rotate exhaust cam anti-clockwise back to original position
8) Insert tensioner bolts and torque tensioner down
9) Unscrew and remove VW tool
10) Optionally rotate engine to see everything working


Question How do you know if you have moved the engine enough each direction?
Again - you are moving the exhaust cam clockwise only enough to move chain slack sufficient to give you working clearance. The inlet cam should not move. Its maybe 1/2 tooth, move little at a time then check.

Question Torque spec for all bolts on this job appear to be ~7 ft-lbs. Bolts on valve cover and tensioner bolts were both 7 ft-lbs from what I read.

Correct, plus its probably a good idea to spend a few bucks and invest in a manual as well


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks for the detailed response. Very helpful.



Iangti7777 said:


> First I apologise, I assumed you have a manual transmission. If you have an auto I am not sure you can turn the engine with the drive wheel. You would probably need to use the crank bolt.


I actually do have a manual.



Iangti7777 said:


> Correct, plus its probably a good idea to spend a few bucks and invest in a manual as well


Haha, yeah I've been meaning to get a Bentley for a while. But every time I need to fix something or do some maintenance, I read about it online and then say "okay, I'll definitely get one for the next project." And then it inevitably doesn't happen. Now is probably the time. Is this the one to get?


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

Good luck with your timing cover.

The Bentley manual is excellent.
I am in the UK and for some previous cars I have used http://www.haynes.com/ . 
I think these are less $  and I have found them OK, but not as much detail as a Bentley.


----------



## jokerny77 (Jul 1, 2008)

been reading everyones diys and posts. silicone sealant or no sealant? some say only a little on the humps and the corners on the head side not the VC side of the gasket? whats the general consensus on what worked?wanna do this once n only once. thanks


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

jokerny77 said:


> been reading everyones diys and posts. silicone sealant or no sealant? some say only a little on the humps and the corners on the head side not the VC side of the gasket? whats the general consensus on what worked?wanna do this once n only once. thanks


I think Bentley says at the corners. Not sure what they say about the flat seal and half moon but Haynes says put it on the flat seal.

What does everyone else say?


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

You only need four tiny dabs on the head side (before you put the gasket on) as show in the Bentley. If you look closely, these dabs effectively plug potential leak points made at the corners where another item has been bolted to the head.

I would not put sealant anywhere else, its not necessary and will be a pig to clean off if for any reason you need to remove the cover in future.

The flat seal now comes "pre-siliconed" if you look there is a thin strip of semi-cured rubbery sealant on it. I checked with the Techs in our local VW, this is all you require do not add any more. When I compressed my flat seal you could see this sealant just protrude from the casting edge.

More importantly it is very important to clean all surfaces of oil and grease especially under the half moon. Also take care to correctly torque down the cover.

So far over a year later I have no leaks.


----------



## 1.8T_Rbb1485 (Jan 30, 2010)

did you place any sealant on under or around the half moon??


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

No, it was not necessary.
Just make sure you clean the area with a good degreaser so that the new seal can make a good contact/seal to the metal. Once you have done this job once, you will be surprised how easy it is.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Iangti7777 said:


> No, it was not necessary.
> Just make sure you clean the area with a good degreaser so that the new seal can make a good contact/seal to the metal. Once you have done this job once, you will be surprised how easy it is.


I'm really hoping this is the case. It seems a little daunting, and a lot of people have trouble with it. I need to learn how to put my car in TDC. Any tips on that?


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

There is a mark on the timing belt cam sprocket that aligns with a mark on the head casting.
There is a mark on the flywheel and bell housing when they all align up it is TDC

The only thing to note is - all marks align only every two rotations of the engine. So if the marks line up on the cam sprocket but are not visible on the flywheel, crank the engine one further rotation and you will see all marks.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Iangti7777 said:


> There is a mark on the timing belt cam sprocket that aligns with a mark on the head casting.
> There is a mark on the flywheel and bell housing when they all align up it is TDC
> 
> The only thing to note is - all marks align only every two rotations of the engine. So if the marks line up on the cam sprocket but are not visible on the flywheel, crank the engine one further rotation and you will see all marks.


Hi, I'm really having some trouble with this repair. I am tensioning the VW tool, and I just can't get enough clearance to get the flat seal out. I have probably 5mm of clearance in the front of the cam tensioner, and none in the back. The flat seal is held down in the back and I just can't get it out. This is getting urgent because I need my car for work on Monday. 

I tried your trick of spinning the front wheels. Neither wheel causing the cams to move. I'm in fourth gear. What am I doing wrong? I have them both jacked up to try them both. What do you recommend I do? How do I turn the engine over manually?

I would really appreciate anyone's help with this. I must get this job finished. Everything is clean and ready to go except getting the flat seal and moon seal out...


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

Your problem is you have both wheels off the ground, if you rotate one the differential will kick in and the other wheel will rotate rather than the engine. 
To turn the engine just securely jack one drive wheel off the ground and rotate this. 

Remember you are looking to move the exhaust cam a tiny amount, go real easy. A small nudge on the wheel is probably all you need. See my previous posts for detailed info.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Iangti7777 said:


> Your problem is you have both wheels off the ground, if you rotate one the differential will kick in and the other wheel will rotate rather than the engine.
> To turn the engine just securely jack one drive wheel off the ground and rotate this.
> 
> Remember you are looking to move the exhaust cam a tiny amount, go real easy. A small nudge on the wheel is probably all you need. See my previous posts for detailed info.


Thanks. I will do this.

Any idea why it's not lifting evenly? I can't see that anyone else had this problem. I can move the flat seal around quite easily in the front, but when I climb on top of my engine (to see in the back), the flat seal is still pinched against the head by the cam tensioner. I can see a little flat seal poking out.

Any recs on getting the new flat seal in? There is not enough space to slide it in straight from the front. Did you bend it and then just let it flatten out when you cranked the cam tensioner back down?

Thanks for the help. Seriously. I don't know what I would do otherwise.


----------



## Dub Ken (Dec 24, 2004)

Grab a needle-node pliers and grab the flat seal on the side edge or the front. Pull up *HARD* on the tensioner assembly, with your left arm, on the side closest to the firewall (where you're suggesting it's pinched). I had the same issue, but I found with enough upward force, you get just enough clearance (.5 mm) to pull the flat seat out towards the driver-side fender. Try a little wiggle action too (vertical wiggle), who cares if you mal it up... it's coming out with determination! 

Repeat with installation. Surprisingly the installation was easier than pulling it out. :beer:


----------



## Iangti7777 (May 23, 2010)

When I did mine I compressed the tensioner released the bolts and like you I was worried that there was not enough space. There was no way I could change the seals.

I then drew a diagram of the cam sprockets, tensioner and chain on a piece of paper and figured out that movement of the exhaust cam as previously explained should raise the tensioner.

After fractionally moving exhaust cam, I had plenty of space to work (5mm - 1cm) and was very relieved 

There was no problem getting the new half moon seal or the flat seal in, it slit straight in over the location dowels. 

Good luck


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Dub Ken said:


> Grab a needle-node pliers and grab the flat seal on the side edge or the front. Pull up *HARD* on the tensioner assembly, with your left arm, on the side closest to the firewall (where you're suggesting it's pinched). I had the same issue, but I found with enough upward force, you get just enough clearance (.5 mm) to pull the flat seat out towards the driver-side fender. Try a little wiggle action too (vertical wiggle), who cares if you mal it up... it's coming out with determination!
> 
> Repeat with installation. Surprisingly the installation was easier than pulling it out. :beer:


What did you lift up on the tensioner with? It's rounded as it goes up. I can't really get a hold of it with anything. Did you just stick a screwdriver in and lift it up with that?

Thanks for all the help. Clock's ticking. I've got to get this done.

Did you guys wait 24 hours after silicone sealant to turn the engine on? I've read both ways.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Guys I am still stuck. I can't get the tensioner to lift. It feels like it's bolted to something. If I stick a screwdriver in underneath, I can get it up another millimeter or two. But that's it. I did the trick with the wheel and got some slack in the chain, and I keep turning the tensioner but nothing moves. What am I missing? Please someone throw me a bone.


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

:facepalm:


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

doctorvw said:


> Guys I am still stuck. I can't get the tensioner to lift. It feels like it's bolted to something. If I stick a screwdriver in underneath, I can get it up another millimeter or two. But that's it. I did the trick with the wheel and got some slack in the chain, and I keep turning the tensioner but nothing moves. What am I missing? Please someone throw me a bone.


Once you use the tool to compress the chain tensioner then you can rotate the cam gear slightly and it will raise the tensioner up A LOT more and give you room to work. Clean the area...install new gasket with some dirko and drop the chain tensioner back down....eace:


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

I figured it out. It's a big :facepalm:

In the DIY, the OP says remove FOUR bolts then posts this photo:










So I removed those bolts, and forgot about the fourth.

I was pulling my hair out (see above) and re-read the DIY and... :banghead:

I found another nice DIY here: http://writen4u.hubpages.com/hub/Valve-Cover-and-Cam-Tensioner-Gasket-DIY-18T-VW-audi-Jetta-Gti

with this photo:










I've got the tensioner up over a centimeter now. Flat seal came out immediately and half moon seal followed... Hopefully will have this finished in a few hours now...

Thanks for bearing with me. Couldn't have done this without you guys. The advice about moving the wheel slightly REALLY needs to be in the original DIY. That is the slickest move. Can't do it without that.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Finished this up tonight. Had one extra part left over. Anyone know what this is? Doesn't look too essential, but still.


----------



## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

so was it still leaking after you fixed it?



doctorvw said:


> Finished this up tonight. Had one extra part left over. Anyone know what this is? Doesn't look too essential, but still.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

radlynx said:


> so was it still leaking after you fixed it?


I believe it has stopped leaking. For a few days after I did the big fix, there were a few oil spots on the floor of my garage. I crawled under again, and there was a re-accumulation of oil in the usual spots. However, I have since been super busy and haven't been under the car again, but there have been no new oil spots. So, I'm crossing my fingers I'm safe...


----------



## v8 killer (Jun 12, 2011)

i just replaced my pcv hoses and noticed that oil was getting past the half moon seal.. My question is what is the worst that can happen if i dont replace this half moon seal?


----------



## 20thGTIMAN (Feb 2, 2012)

Great DIY:thumbup::beer:


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

v8 killer said:


> i just replaced my pcv hoses and noticed that oil was getting past the half moon seal.. My question is what is the worst that can happen if i dont replace this half moon seal?


You will slowly leak oil from around the seal. It will make a mess and I would imagine you would eventually have to start adding oil to your engine. Beyond that would just be a guess, but I would imagine the seal would eventually just completely give out and you lose a lot of oil fast.


----------



## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

*Metal tubes and hoses*

I was about to attempt this, but as I was checking whether I have all the tools and access to all the bolts, I tried pulling a bit on the metal tubes running over the top of the three outside bolts holding down the cam chain tensioner and I could not move them at all. That means I cannot access those 3 torx bolts at all. So, there's no point in removing my valve cover until I figure out how to move those hoses and tubes out of the way. 
Will they bend away far enough when I unbolt and move the vacuum reservoir on the top of the engine?

I don't want to break any hoses and connections and I'm hoping I can accomplish this DIY without removing anything and hopefully just being able to move things out of the way temporarily.

Please help. Thank you.

Edit: I have 1.8T AWD engine code.


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

i showed this to my mechnic and told him i followed it exactly. he said " WAY too much sealer. you only need a bit in the corners on the bottom edges of the gasket and thats it."


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

GTIfreak said:


> I was about to attempt this, but as I was checking whether I have all the tools and access to all the bolts, I tried pulling a bit on the metal tubes running over the top of the three outside bolts holding down the cam chain tensioner and I could not move them at all. That means I cannot access those 3 torx bolts at all. So, there's no point in removing my valve cover until I figure out how to move those hoses and tubes out of the way.
> Will they bend away far enough when I unbolt and move the vacuum reservoir on the top of the engine?
> 
> I don't want to break any hoses and connections and I'm hoping I can accomplish this DIY without removing anything and hopefully just being able to move things out of the way temporarily.
> ...


Yeah that is the one of the hardest parts of the repair. I wrenched on those metal tubes HARD. I was really nervous but there have been no ill effects. I was seriously worried I wouldn't even be able to get the cover off because one was in the way. I just used the engine as a fulcrum and a crowbar and bent it back just enough to let the cover off.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

zactastic said:


> i showed this to my mechnic and told him i followed it exactly. he said " WAY too much sealer. you only need a bit in the corners on the bottom edges of the gasket and thats it."


I only put it on the sides where the slope of the rim around the outside meets the flat portions of the valve cover. Read a lot elsewhere that too much sealant can make this leak. Don't think I put any around half moon seal either.


----------



## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

doctorvw said:


> Yeah that is the one of the hardest parts of the repair. I wrenched on those metal tubes HARD. I was really nervous but there have been no ill effects. I was seriously worried I wouldn't even be able to get the cover off because one was in the way. I just used the engine as a fulcrum and a crowbar and bent it back just enough to let the cover off.


Thanks. With my luck, I'd like to be ready to replace them. My car is 12 years old, so nothing is shiny and easy to unbolt anymore. Whenever I turn a bolt, I'm just praying not to have to replace something else that may break.

Are those lines easily replaceable or are they part of some universe-bending vacuum system for which a brilliant German engineer received a PhD? 

P.S. For the record, I love German engineering.


----------



## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

zactastic said:


> i showed this to my mechnic and told him i followed it exactly. he said " WAY too much sealer. you only need a bit in the corners on the bottom edges of the gasket and thats it."


 That's all that Bentley calls for plus some on the flat seal, but only where it sits over the halfmoon seal if I recall correctly.


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

doctorvw said:


> I only put it on the sides where the slope of the rim around the outside meets the flat portions of the valve cover. Read a lot elsewhere that too much sealant can make this leak. Don't think I put any around half moon seal either.


 Thanks, can you explain that a little further? maybe show a picture? i just cant visualize where the sides meet the cover but ill take a look. cheers


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

GTIfreak said:


> That's all that Bentley calls for plus some on the flat seal, but only where it sits over the halfmoon seal if I recall correctly.


you mean sealer goes on the bottom side of the "chain tensioner seal", right? 



sounds like this DIY needs an editing by the OP. Ill have to get a Bentley now


----------



## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

zactastic said:


> you mean sealer goes on the bottom side of the "chain tensioner seal", right?
> sounds like this DIY needs an editing by the OP. Ill have to get a Bentley now


See the diagrams in this DIY: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...o-1-8T-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-Gasket-replacement


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

GTIfreak said:


> See the diagrams in this DIY: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...o-1-8T-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-Gasket-replacement


Awesome! And thanks


----------



## Goheels555 (Feb 10, 2010)

:beer:


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

So I fixed mine about a year ago. Replaced the valve cover gasket and cam tensioner gasket/half moon seal. No problems since until I just noticed leaking oil again. It appears to be coming from the same place. 

My question: what happens if you just ignore this and keep your oil level tanked up? I check it often, and so far it hasn't even budged. But I'm still getting a lot of drops on the garage floor. What are the ill effects of not fixing this?


----------



## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

maybe you have some other problems with the engine and it's building too much pressure inside the engine that the seals starts to leak. you might want to look at the puck pressure release valve or replace it if you haven't done so.

when i tried replacing my valve cover gasket, i am having issue compressing the CAM tensioneer so I ended up not replacing the gasket for that part.  i feel like my tool would break and it would not compress. any idea what I am doing wrong here?




doctorvw said:


> So I fixed mine about a year ago. Replaced the valve cover gasket and cam tensioner gasket/half moon seal. No problems since until I just noticed leaking oil again. It appears to be coming from the same place.
> 
> My question: what happens if you just ignore this and keep your oil level tanked up? I check it often, and so far it hasn't even budged. But I'm still getting a lot of drops on the garage floor. What are the ill effects of not fixing this?


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

radlynx said:


> when i tried replacing my valve cover gasket, i am having issue compressing the CAM tensioneer so I ended up not replacing the gasket for that part. i feel like my tool would break and it would not compress. any idea what I am doing wrong here?


Sounds like the arm on the CCT tool is hitting either the chain (you usually have to force the chain over a bit), or the metal on the CCT. Make sure you have a clean path for it to slide by the CCT and the chain.


----------



## Goheels555 (Feb 10, 2010)

jbrehm said:


> Sounds like the arm on the CCT tool is hitting either the chain (you usually have to force the chain over a bit), or the metal on the CCT. Make sure you have a clean path for it to slide by the CCT and the chain.


The same thing happened to me yesterday. The tool I had cracked (and I'm sure it was in the right place). I got another one today and started threading it in. It seemed to start working and all the sudden it started turning freely. I tried to back it out but its not coming. Either way I twist it, its not moving. Anyone have any ideas. I'm starting to freak out a little here.


----------



## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

I don't think it's hitting something else. Does the engine needs to be on TDC? I didn't do this part. Anyone knows whether we have to make it on TDC before we can compress it? i really appreciate any input here. Thank you.



jbrehm said:


> Sounds like the arm on the CCT tool is hitting either the chain (you usually have to force the chain over a bit), or the metal on the CCT. Make sure you have a clean path for it to slide by the CCT and the chain.


----------



## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

The engine doesn't have to be in any specific orientation. Are you guys sure that you're putting the screw on the tool into the bottom of the CCT, and not into one of the screw holes on the head? There really aren't many ways to screw up using this simple tool.


----------



## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

i'm positive about it. there's no other place to screw it.



jbrehm said:


> The engine doesn't have to be in any specific orientation. Are you guys sure that you're putting the screw on the tool into the bottom of the CCT, and not into one of the screw holes on the head? There really aren't many ways to screw up using this simple tool.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

Glad i could be of help! I tried to do the best i could with no help. Its just such a pain in the butt job. PITA! 

Here I posted some other videos that may help you all.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...e-For-Your-1.8T-Without-Big-Turbo-with-Videos

Goodluck Everyone!


----------



## Goheels555 (Feb 10, 2010)

Just got done with mine. Was very confused about the chain tensioner tool...I feel like the top part of it should have compressed more, which led me to over-tighten and strip the tool. I ended up getting a new one and tightening it as far as I could and even though it didn't look compressed at all, went ahead and pried up the tensioner and changed the gaskets. In the end I realized I was making it more complicated than it actually was. Just a heads up for anyone else doing the same job.


----------



## GTIfreak (Mar 25, 2001)

Still haven't attempted this, but I thought I'd contribute to the thread with something from my research.
I was browsing ECS Tuning's website and came across the cam chain tensioner. Since it comes packaged in a compressed state with the tool in it, the pictures show nicely how the CCT compression tool should work. 
Take a look:










http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Search/Tensioner/ES1891981/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Search/Tensioner/ES260023/

This should also show you where the 4 bolts for the tensioner are and approximately how far down to tighten the tool.

Hope this helps people and me whenever I try to do this!

:beer:


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

Goheels555 said:


> Just got done with mine. Was very confused about the chain tensioner tool...I feel like the top part of it should have compressed more, which led me to over-tighten and strip the tool. I ended up getting a new one and tightening it as far as I could and even though it didn't look compressed at all, went ahead and pried up the tensioner and changed the gaskets. In the end I realized I was making it more complicated than it actually was. Just a heads up for anyone else doing the same job.


So I found out that I stripped my cam tensioner too. I found out because as I mentioned above mine started leaking again. I took it in this time and had it replaced. But they couldn't get the cam tensioner lifted to switch out the cam tensioner gasket. They wanted to replace it and it was $700 for just the part! No way. Just did the valve cover gasket.


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

if your chain tensioner *COMPRESSION tool* (vw tool # 3366) *broke*, as its happened to many as well as myself. dont let that stop you. I didnt need the tool.

follow is you dare, but its simple:

jack the cars passager side, rotate tire (while in 5th gear) and look at the chain tensioner. observe where TDC is, rotate pass so the so tensioner natural compresses from rotating the tire. now, unscrew the 4 bolts pertaining to the chain tensioner and pretend you have that tool #3366 in use (it's not cause i broke it)

take out the 4 bolts
lift the tensioner, remove moon seal and old CT seal.
replace with new one (check to see proper fit)
and place the 4 screws back. tighten all 4 together.

it's pretty simple, the chain tensioner will life without the tool. be careful.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

My tool didn't break but the threads in the cam tensioner are stripped so the shop I went to told me they couldn't replace the seal. Would this method work?


----------



## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

doctorvw said:


> My tool didn't break but the threads in the cam tensioner are stripped so the shop I went to told me they couldn't replace the seal. Would this method work?


do you mean "your vw tool #3366 wont screw down into that hole, and it wont compress your chain tensioner?" 

if that's the case, you can do what i described above. however, be advised that you take full risk of doing your own replacement work, and my skills arent intended as professional opinions. be careful, but truly, i didnt need that tool...it may or may not work in your case. make sure your car is near TDC and read carefully again what i wrote above or this may not work for you. best wishes on your repair. be confident:thumbup:


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

zactastic said:


> do you mean "your vw tool #3366 wont screw down into that hole, and it wont compress your chain tensioner?"
> 
> if that's the case, you can do what i described above. however, be advised that you take full risk of doing your own replacement work, and my skills arent intended as professional opinions. be careful, but truly, i didnt need that tool...it may or may not work in your case. make sure your car is near TDC and read carefully again what i wrote above or this may not work for you. best wishes on your repair. be confident:thumbup:


Yeah the cam tensioner is stripped and won't compress with the tool. My mechanic tried a few tools and none would work. Thanks for the help. I'll probably let him handle it this time (since I did it the first time). At least this will hopefully save me from buying a new cam tensioner.


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

1st off, nice right up OP.:thumbup::beer:

2nd, where do I get this piece at? is it better than OEM? I can clearly see that it different. But is it preferred over the OEM piece?
I checked their website, and it doesn't seem to be available anymore. 


zactastic said:


>


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

I got mine from http://blauparts.com/


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

thanks!:thumbup::beer:


----------



## orangeVdub (Apr 20, 2013)

*Oops - broken CCT guide and hose connector.. big deal?*

Was trying to replace my CCT gaskets today. As I was compressing the tensioner with the 3366 tool, a piece broke off from the CCT. Guess I turned it a turn too tight. Looking at the piece that broke, it looks like one of two guides for the 3366 tool? Do I need to worry? 










Car is getting old, because when I was removing the valve cover, I also snapped the connector for this little hose here. Any idea what the hose is for? Best way to get a replacement connector?


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

*Ur broken part.*

OKay replacing that broken part on the hose is gonna be easy. You can't exactly drive without that part. If you do have to drive, get a metal socket "-" that goes 2 way.. From what i see, its 3 part connector thats capped. "T" No need to spend more than 5 dollars for a part like that. Just buy the pack connector from home depot or ur local autoparts store. 
(hhmm Looks like someone attached a boost gauge to that part.....) 

for the CCT, if that part failures to compress the tensioner, the tensioner tool is junk. GOtta buy another one.


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

That is a finger for the chain guide on the CCT. Replace the CCT and guide. If you don't, the chain with be loosy goosy and you will likely just timing.


----------



## orangeVdub (Apr 20, 2013)

1.8Tjettta01 said:


> for the CCT, if that part failures to compress the tensioner, the tensioner tool is junk. GOtta buy another one.


 The tool worked fine and the chain guide compressed properly (at least from what I could tell), but I was surprised when the "finger" snapped off. I thought it was metal? The tool is fine, but the CCT itself is now missing that finger. 

Does the finger actually affect the chain guide though? Looking at the pictures of the CCT there aren't fingers present on the bottom chain guide. It looks to only serve the purpose of holding the 3366 tool in place. Given the extra work and $ to replace the entire CCT, I'll re-assemble tomorrow and see if I encounter timing problems. 










I found this picture very helpful in understanding how the CCT compresses with the tool. It wasn't immediately apparent to me before.


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

orangeVdub said:


> I found this picture very helpful in understanding how the CCT compresses with the tool. It wasn't immediately apparent to me before.


 X2


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

OHHHH thats what snapped off. The camshafts hold the chain together. That part is just to hold the tensioner TOOL together. You'll be fine! IT will not affect the timing. Its just a stablizer for the tool itself.


----------



## orangeVdub (Apr 20, 2013)

Didn't end up replacing the CCT or its gasket. The tensioner's piston was not fully extended and I couldn't figure out how to extend it, so I said screw it. 

I replaced the valve cover and spark plug gaskets and put it all back together. If I hadn't tried to replace the CCT gasket, it really would have been an easy job. 

Gave her a start and everything sounds pretty good--at least not any worse than it sounded before. Will take her for a spin tomorrow after the sealant cures.


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

The tensioner will extend itself because of oil pressure. No need to stress, just take a shot at it another day.


----------



## Ray W (Apr 27, 2013)

New guy here. Thanks to this forum and you all for knowledge, experience and ideas and great pics on how to do this procedure. I put off giving it a try for too long and ended up with quite the oil mess all over the engine etc. I have read a number of accounts on doing this, have the Haynes and factory manual and still dreaded changing out these gaskets. My only prior experience with working on my 2004 1.8 was rather discouraging. I had decided that with just over 100k miles on the car, that it would be a good idea to see just what the oil pump pickup screen looked like. I was thinking it might be getting clogged up and in need of cleaning, as from what I could see just inside of the oil filler cap, there was probably quite a bit of carbon deposit all over just about every surface inside the engine. Long story short, I couldn't believe the ordeal it was to do this seemingly simple task of checking the intake screen. I previously had a Rabbit that I drove and maintained till the rear wheels literally fell off from the body disappearing, and still have an '86 Golf with nearing 200k miles on it that I have done most of the work on. These VWs did not prepare me for working on the Passat. 

At any rate, after having done the valve cover gasket and tensioner gasket replacement, I just thought I might have something to add as far as making the task a little simpler and easier. Feel free to tell me if I'm off base and an idiot for skipping some steps. 

First of all, I couldn't see any point in setting the pistons to top dead center as the valve timing won't be getting out of wack. So forget having to pull the front of the car out to get at the crank bolt to turn the crank. After removing the valve cover, mark both the cam chain sprockets and the chain with correction fluid or whatever, (I used white paint as that is what I had on hand) so that you can tell if the chain does skip a tooth. We don't care how many links between the marks, we just want to keep the chain and sprockets matched where they are now. Then compress the tensioner with the tool and remove the four tensioner hold down screws. At this point there is a little slack in the chain, but not enough to get the gasket and half moon seal out, much less get the new ones in place. Now all that it takes to get the slack needed on top of the tensioner is not to turn the crank clockwise a little bit (remember we don't have access to the crank), but just take a vice grip to the intake cam and very carefully turn it counterclockwise to move the chain slack to the top of the tensioner. Just take very careful notice and care to keep an eye on the marks on the chain and sprockets to see that the chain doesn't skip a tooth on either sprocket. If it does, just put it back where it belongs. 

Proceed to pull up on the tensioner. I got about 3/8 inch clearance. I was still concerned about having enough clearance to get the old parts out and the new ones in place but it was easier than I thought it would be. I cleaned with q-tips and carb cleaner. On pulling the old gasket out, the little locating spring pin came out with it. I thought I was really in for a pain to get it back in place, but I put the pin into the new gasket and they both went where they were supposed to without a lot of fuss. Same with the half moon. One these are in place, rotate the cam back to move the chain slack to the bottom and screw th the tensioner back down and remove the compressor tool. Check the marks on the chain and sprockets. You should be good to go on putting the valve cover back on with a new gasket and reassemble the rest of the stuff. 

I have to say at this point that with this being the first time for me to work on this engine, before I put the valve cover back on, I did in fact pull the front of the car out and turned the crank around a couple of times to be sure that there wasn't any valve interference. I wouldn't do it again if I were to do this job again. I'm confident that as long as the cam sprockets and chain marks remain aligned where they were when starting, the engine will be perfectly fine. If they get out of alignment and you can't easily get them back, then you do have to go through the whole rigamarole of TDC, cam windows, 16 chain links and all that. But you certainly shouldn't have to go through all that. Just keep the marks you made where they are and you will be good. 

The idea of turning the intake cam with the vice-grip to move the chain slack was not my original idea. I ran across that somewhere on another forum or web site. I would attribute that person but I can't remember who it was or where. 

OK, fire away please, if I am all wet in skipping some steps or what ever. If I am mistaken in my procedure, please let me know and explain what I did wrong for my benefit and especially for everyone elses. I'm only trying to help others that may need to do these repairs save time and aggravation.


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

That was a very well built DIY. Nothing was wrong. 

The only thing I would change, is less thinking. 
While you did it the fool proof way, you DRASTICALLY over thought the procedure. Yes these cars are over Engineered, but that doesn't mean you have to over think them... All the time. 

Now that you have done it once, would you do it like this the next time? 

Again, not that anything was wrong, its just to wordy and drawn out for me. Others might like it. 

For me though this is done in about a dozen steps. 

Set motor to DTC, 
remove Valve Cover (VC) and VC gskets, 
Check Cam windows, 
loosen 4 bolts that hold the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT), 
apply CCT tool, 
remove the 4 bolts, 
tighten the CCT tool, 
remover old half moon seal and CCT gasket, 
clean surfaces, 
insert new gasket and seal, 
insert bolts, 
removed CCT tool, 
tighten bolts, 
check cam windows, 
insert new VC goskets, 
apply gasket dressing, 
pour new oil over cams and chain, 
put VC back on, 
tighten bolts. 

The whole point of putting the motor at TDC, at least to me, is to make sure all the timing is correct. It isn't directly relate to the DIY for the purpose of replacing the gaskets. 












PS: for your 1st post, bravo.:beer:


----------



## Ray W (Apr 27, 2013)

Thanks for the response. Yes, next time will be more brief.  
I'm still puzzled as to why the bother with setting TDC and the rest. If the timing is correct before the procedure is started, it will be afterwards, if you see that nothing gets changed. 

So far there are no leaks!:thumbup: I must have yanked the connector to the left headlight assembly when manhandling the front end tho as I now have no headlights or turn signal on that side of the front. Oh well, we are actually having the first nice spring weather so far this year here in Minneapolis so I won't mind working on it tomorrow.


----------



## bodo920 (Dec 13, 2004)

Did this on Sunday. Went pretty easy after I got the VC off (Thanks DV hard pipe). When I popped the flat seal off, this little piece came out with and haven't seen anybody talk about it. I took a picture but it's on my phone which was left at home today, so I'll describe it: Very small, about the size of your fingernail. Orange ring around what looks like a screen, but there's a solid rectangle cut out of the center of the screen and looks like it was purposely done, not some accidental crush or related. AWW 1.8 engine, if that helps. Anyone else? I looks like it would line up with one of the holes on the flat seal just north of the half moon area. 
 

Also broke the front center VC bolt tightening it on. Was using a torque wrench set to 7 ft lb too. Not happy, so I put some of the sealant on that area and hope that will be ok. 

I was worried I about jumping the timing even though it seemed to be just fine so I wrenched the crank and it went some but then it got to be impossible to turn. Granted I did this with the wheel on under the car but should it give resistance like that? No way in the world the chain jumped anything. Just paranoid... 

Edit: posted a picture and started it up today, seems great. Sealant holding after a good drive this morning but I'll keep my eye on it. NO CELs!


----------



## 1.8Tjettta01 (Nov 12, 2007)

I don't remember my 1.8T having that screen. hopefully someone else can help you out.


----------



## Flandestiny (Jun 17, 2013)

*Cam tensioner gasket*

I posted this question in the 1.8t forum, but wanted to get some thoughts here. I replaced the VC gasket no problem, but broke the cam tensioner tool so couldn't replace the other gaskets. When I go back in, do I need to replace the VC gasket again? Thanks.


----------



## bodo920 (Dec 13, 2004)

I believe the rule of thumb is to replace the VC gasket every time you crack the VC, even if it was just recently. I think it's probably a good idea personally, since you run the risk of a compromised gasket which you'd have to replace anyway.


----------



## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

Agreed. Its a relatively inexpensive gasket so yes. It's generally highly recommend to replace it.


----------



## ajshoe (Aug 26, 2008)

THat small part is the CCT oil screen - it can pop out of the CCT. In your case - somebody toke it out and cut open the screen to allow oil in it. Sometime when replacing these you'll find the screens are completely clogged - making the CCT inoperative since no oil is allowed into the CCT. Usually loud slapping noise is symptom.


----------



## bodo920 (Dec 13, 2004)

Thanks for the info. Nobody has ever been in the CCT area that I know of so that's weird to hear that somebody cut it. I've owned the car from mile 27k to 133k now and I doubt anyone touched it within 0-27k and never after.


----------



## boslet2 (Jan 15, 2014)

1.8Tjettta01 said:


> <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>turbeau3</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good so far.... dont forget to mark the chain and the sprockets on the cams, also, did you put the pistons @ TDC? If you did, howd you go about it?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>pistons?????<p> i don't have to touch them..... nor do i see them, they are under the spark plugs and i don't know what TDC means???<br>


1.8Tjetta01 you should really consider taking down or deleting this thread. There are several mistakes and somebody else is going to just read the DIY portion of this thread and not read the comments and then they are going to end up messing up their car like you did. I give you respect for trying to do things yourself and help others, however if you don't understand anything about "timing" and don't know what "TDC" means then you should not be posting DIY projects such as this one.


----------



## Jim_Lamadoo (Mar 29, 2014)

boslet2 said:


> 1.8Tjetta01 you should really consider taking down or deleting this thread.


I agree, for the reasons given and a dozen more. To everyone else, I suggest getting the Bentley manual.


----------



## moondragon (May 18, 2014)

*Is this gasket on correctly?*

So I decided to do my own valve cover gasket replacement and then read about the half moon gasket and the cam chain tensioner gasket on top of it. So I think i got it all replaced correctly, but is the cam chain tensioner gasket supposed to stick out like this? All the bolts lined up and went back in without any resistance so I think it's lined up right, but I'd like a second opinion from someone who has done this

Thanks

Moon


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

moondragon said:


> So I decided to do my own valve cover gasket replacement and then read about the half moon gasket and the cam chain tensioner gasket on top of it. So I think i got it all replaced correctly, but is the cam chain tensioner gasket supposed to stick out like this? All the bolts lined up and went back in without any resistance so I think it's lined up right, but I'd like a second opinion from someone who has done this
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Moon


That's normal. If it wasn't aligned correctly, you'd know it.

What sealant are you gonna use?


----------



## moondragon (May 18, 2014)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> That's normal. If it wasn't aligned correctly, you'd know it.
> 
> What sealant are you gonna use?


Hey MÄDDNESSS

I'm using RTV Silicone.

Been looking at some of your threads. Engine rebuild in apartment is pretty impressive 

So did I read you left SoCal? I'm actually moving back at end of July. Can't wait. Live in western Maryland now and winters are brutal.


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

moondragon said:


> Hey MÄDDNESSS
> 
> I'm using RTV Silicone.
> 
> ...


I don't know if that will work or not. Maybe somebody else will chime in on that matter. I use Hylomar universal Blue Racing Formula, made by Permatex. Hasn't failed me thus far.

Thanks man.
Ya, my wife is in the Chair Force and she was sent here. I hate Ca, the geography and weather is cool, but the state freakin sucks. to much damn regulation. Their a bunch of communist/socialist bitches. I call it Comyfornia, others call it Mother Russia. lol.

Why are you going back?


----------



## LeoA86 (Jun 3, 2014)

sO Do people use rtv on the half moon seal and tension gasket? if so all around or just the seating area? how long does a job like this take? I'd assume about an hour and a half?:thumbup:


----------



## bodo920 (Dec 13, 2004)

Jesse_717 said:


> i have a haynes repair manual and it only said to put rtv sealant on the shaded area in the pic below<p><IMG SRC="http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j168/cashmoneyflo/camgasket.png" BORDER="0">


This. From page 1.


----------



## cwoodsworth (Sep 23, 2011)

Did this today. Surprisingly straight forward (I was expecting there to be more headaches after having read this thread). The specialty tool makes all the difference. I was able to get about 1-1.5cm of space under the cam chain tensioner using it. The pics helped a lot so thanks to the OP for those:beer: Everything went smooth.

Cheers,


----------



## choppper (Apr 7, 2011)

Could a mod fix the first post or something possibly? There is HTML coding everywhere which is displaying as text instead of formatting.


----------



## choppper (Apr 7, 2011)

choppper said:


> Could a mod fix the first post or something possibly? There is HTML coding everywhere which is displaying as text instead of formatting.


*This is how its appearing, what a pain to try and decipher through:*

<B>DO NOT TAKE OFF YOUR CAMSHAFT , DO NOT TAKE OFF YOUR CAMSHAFT</B> <p>Youtube Videos Uploaded 4-17-10<br><A HREF="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqk1f_nMfn4" TARGET="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqk1f_nMfn4</A> part 1 10mins<p><A HREF="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy-UVCEvYrk" TARGET="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy-UVCEvYrk</A> part2 10mins<p>TDC, almost, they must line up<br><A HREF="http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4096117" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4096117</A><p>camshaft diagrams<br><A HREF="http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946</A><p><br>Where to Buy.<br><A HREF="http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21005-1" TARGET="_blank">http://www.blauparts.com/prodd...005-1</A><p><br>WATCH THIS TOPIC AND EMAIL ALL REPLIES<p>Please help me if i need it if you know any info.<p>Parts needed:<br>Torx T-30<br>10mm metric the long one.<br>gloves<br>paper towels<p>Advice:<br>you do not need to take OFF your cam shaft if your DOING THE MOON SEAL, FLAT SEAL, SPARK PLUG SEAL, AND VALVE COVER SEAL. Just take off the tensioner itself a little bit after you have compressed it with that VW compresser tool.<p>The the only reason why you need to take off your CAMSHAFT, is if the CAM SEAL is leaking. DON"T touch if its not!<br>POOR oil on the cams and cam chain when you are done and before you start up your engine.<p>you can use ""electronics cleaner"" to clean the oil on the outside of the engine as well. works best!<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>TAIVWAUDITECH</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is too much work.I simply decompress the tensioner,unbolt & raise the tensioner,slide out the old gasket & half moon,irrigate/clean the surfaces with carb spray,install the new half moon & gasket,bolt it back down and de-compress.All done.. </TD></TR></TABLE><p><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/DSCN1158.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><br><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/IMG_0248gasket2.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/Jetta%20cam%20tensioner%20gasket/IMG_0262.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>oil around the spark plugs, not good!!!<br><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/Jetta%20cam%20tensioner%20gasket/IMG_0263.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><br>do you see all of those screws??? yes, you have to remove them BE CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP THE SCREWS!<br><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/Jetta%20cam%20tensioner%20gasket/IMG_0265.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><br>sooooo beautiful!!! German engineering!!<br><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/Jetta%20cam%20tensioner%20gasket/IMG_0266.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><br> One thing whats nice is it will stop tensioning when there is too much pressure. ((when you are done, If the tensioner does not want to uncompress anymore, use some pliers to lift it up and start unscrewing that way.))<p>Buy a Star key or Torx key in a set. (preferably a torx T-30)<br>This is the part where you depress the tensioner. it should CLICK in there between the chain~~~~~ and the metal part | | <p><IMG SRC="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/brontoe/Jetta%20cam%20tensioner%20gasket/IMG_0269.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>


----------



## ickygod (Oct 15, 2005)

Thanks OP for the write up and community for added advice. Planning to do this soon. Just fyi Blauparts no longer seems to carry this kit (at least not for me, '03 1.8t AWP). But ECS has a comprehensive kit that even includes the tensioner tool.
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2695709/


----------



## deadheadedwest (Oct 15, 2017)

Yes. Yes. Yes. Beers for you good sir. :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:

Thank you for saving me from :banghead:


----------



## deadheadedwest (Oct 15, 2017)

*Over prepare!!*

If anyone is going to attempt this I would suggest you read through this entire post, including all replies and take notes.

I over-prepared for this repair but because I did my car is on the road, running like a top - with no "Check engine" problems. 

I suggest you spend the extra money and get a quality VW tool for compressing the tensioner. 


I didn't end up changing out my half moon.

2 reasons: 

1. Once I was in there I noticed my half moon and the other seal were NOT LEAKING. 

And being that my car is almost 20 years old - I try not to poke around where I don't NEED to be poking. 

2. My tool broke....twice.....they sent two. 



But I am glad because I dont want more headache then I had. 




I know I know I know.....Ill just need to go in there and change everything again if the half moon starts acting up....


But because I didnt spend the extra $5 for a quality tool thats where Im at. 


This is my daily driver.....my only driver. 




Anyway...


DONT CHEAT YOURSELF - READ THIS ENTIRE THREAD AND TAKE NOTES! 

SPEND A FEW HOURS PREPPING!!! 



Thank you everyone for your time and effort and sharing your repairs here. Very helpful :beer:


----------

