# Rust ring on rear rotors



## zaid90 (Feb 12, 2012)

i replaced my brakes about 2 years ago, this year i kept my winter tires on because i didn't have any summers and just drove like my mom. my suspension is stock and the car has 225k km on it. i got EBC quiet slot rotors with hawk HPS pads, the fronts are pristine. the rears look like ****. 

could this rust be from bad suspension and no hard braking, so the rears barely got engaged and just slowly rusted, so this would mean just a few hard brakes should clear em up?

ATM i am doing a full suspension swap, and thats how i noticed the condition of the rotors. any advice?


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## vw_service_advisor (Aug 10, 2017)

To me that rust looks too deep into the rotor to clear up with braking, but it's hard to tell from a pic and I could be wrong. A new suspension will help even out the load when braking and dig the rear pads into those rotors a little better.
As long as pad and rotor measurements are in spec replacing brake parts just based on how they look is purely about owner preference IMO. Nothing wrong with swapping new brakes back there but if the wear components are in spec and functioning properly it's more of a personal preference item.


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## GTI's (Nov 27, 2011)

Looks like a pad issue, the rotor has three radial ware surfaces the two smaller bands towards the outer edge. Unless that rotor was machined with pikes and valleys.


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

zaid90 said:


> i replaced my brakes about 2 years ago, this year i kept my winter tires on because i didn't have any summers and just drove like my mom. my suspension is stock and the car has 225k km on it. i got EBC quiet slot rotors with hawk HPS pads, the fronts are pristine. the rears look like ****.
> 
> could this rust be from bad suspension and no hard braking, so the rears barely got engaged and just slowly rusted, so this would mean just a few hard brakes should clear em up?
> 
> ATM i am doing a full suspension swap, and thats how i noticed the condition of the rotors. any advice?


i have the same looking rotors, mine was using an akebono pads and meyl brand rotors. the rotors were just so rusted after 60000 miles. 

last saturday, i finally replaced it with another akebono pads and a vw brand rotors. i thought the aftermarket rotors may not have the quality to resist rust. will see how long it will last.

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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

zaid90 said:


> could this rust be from bad suspension and no hard braking, so the rears barely got engaged and just slowly rusted, so this would mean just a few hard brakes should clear em up?


I highly doubt it. It looks to me like you aren't getting good even pressure on this caliper, or have bad pads, or something else has gone wrong like the caliper is moving when braking, or is seized, or the sliding pins need lubrication, etc. Typically, if you get a bit of rust on the rotors when the car sits, it will disappear the next time you drive the car. If you have a proportioning valve it could be borked, and preventing the caliper from clamping.

EDIT: Actually, looking closer, the pads looked mismatched for those rotors, and don't cover the entire rotor area. Hard to say from the picture, but it looks like the pad doesn't even cover the last outer part of the rotor where the rust is.


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

zaid90 said:


> i replaced my brakes about 2 years ago, this year i kept my winter tires on because i didn't have any summers and just drove like my mom. my suspension is stock and the car has 225k km on it. i got EBC quiet slot rotors with hawk HPS pads, the fronts are pristine. the rears look like ****.
> 
> could this rust be from bad suspension and no hard braking, so the rears barely got engaged and just slowly rusted, so this would mean just a few hard brakes should clear em up?
> 
> ATM i am doing a full suspension swap, and thats how i noticed the condition of the rotors. any advice?


check this link. the rotor is so rusted. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uEgOqKAVBr8

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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

zaid90 said:


>


That is rust embedded in the rotor. Pads, road salt or contamination doesn’t have the friction to wear through cast iron. Glaze yes, grind no. One scenario is left. The steel backing plate of the pad chewed into the softer cast iron. Steel on iron at 3.5k psi grafts a perfect, untreated path for rust to grow.

Yea, that’s uneven pad wear, but the likelihood of the disc being chewed (rusted) by anything except steel (backing plates) is more likely to be a bad casting in the disc rather than a pad brake gone rouge chewing at the disc.



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## GolfRRRR (Apr 29, 2016)

a_riot said:


> I highly doubt it. It looks to me like you aren't getting good even pressure on this caliper, or have bad pads, or something else has gone wrong like the caliper is moving when braking, or is seized, or the sliding pins need lubrication, etc. Typically, if you get a bit of rust on the rotors when the car sits, it will disappear the next time you drive the car. If you have a proportioning valve it could be borked, and preventing the caliper from clamping.
> 
> EDIT: Actually, looking closer, the pads looked mismatched for those rotors, and don't cover the entire rotor area. Hard to say from the picture, but it looks like the pad doesn't even cover the last outer part of the rotor where the rust is.



You are getting uneven wear caused by the caliper sliding pins most likely or you're not getting enough pressure to that caliper. All that rust wouldn't be there after a few stops if the caliper/pad were contacting the rotor squarely. Pull the pad out and lay it down on something flat and you'll see. If the pad is flat, then pull the sliding pins and lube them up then bleed the caliper, Good luck.


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