# New member with questions



## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Good evening; my first post.

I am "armyRN", and I just bought (with my 17yr old daughter chipping in) a black 2008 VW bug convertible (with the 2.5 and the problematic tiptronic tranny) for her first car as she's getting ready to start college. She's loving it - she's always had a fascination with VW bugs. And my first car (back in 1976) was a 63 bug ($300 back then). so it runs in the family I guess. It looks and runs nice, but of course we have a few issues (and it is missing a few interior knobs/trip pieces and such). Car has 114,000 miles; paid $3700 in case you're wondering.

I bought a Chilton's book at the parts store ($21), and we ordered from Amazon a 2008 owner's manual (with supplements, to include the convertible top booklet) for $90, but I hope she'll be keeping this car for a while. I figure they're an investment. And thank goodness I'm mechanically inclined.

1. The temp light/convertible top light (above the rearview mirror) is blinking with the convertible top picture, and when we take off from a stop, something is alarming for exactly ten seconds (I'm assuming these two are related???). I've read that when the vehicle senses the top is secure, it will show the temp. I know the top is securely up, so what's going on? It seems to go up-and-down ok. What to try first? 

2. OBD II code 0411 (secondary air injector flow issue). What's the common cause and cure? I cleared the code; we'll see if it comes back.

3. [P] [R] [N] [D]  all lit up - you all know what it is (tiptronic failure). I took the shifter apart - it is missing the large magnet at the end of the rubber strip. Looked all over with a flashlight - couldn't find the magnet. Haven't been able to find one today going to junkyards (or playgrounds as I call them). I did the put it in neutral, shut off engine, restart engine in neutral, start driving - and it only lit up the gear I was in. I don't care right now if we have [P] [R] [N] [D]  all lit up - I just want to know - is going to hurt anything driving like this? My daughter is totally not into the paddle shifting feature. 

My daughter is loving the car so far. I've still got to replace a headlight bulb and license plate bulb. Hopefully will have the bugs worked out (sorry if that pun gets overused here) soon so she can just enjoy driving it.

Any words of wisdom for a new 2008 Bug convertible owner?


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, it sounds, like your got a pretty good deal for a 2008 model; although, from what you are saying, you have a number of typical "bugs" these cars tend to have. 

1. top lights going off and blinking. You might want to check in your user manual; for the locking procedure and possibly, the "reset" feature. Aside, from that; you could scan the car with a VW specific scan tool and see if there are any trouble codes, related to the top. Common problems, are some of the sensors in the top will fail and cause problems, as the controller cannot tell what the top's correct positions are. 

2. P0441, is evap system related; check out this link, for description of the typical problems and possible solutions: 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089

Common issues are damaged lines, charcoal canister or N80 purge valve failure. I would do a visual inspection; for any damaged lines or evap canister (under the right rear fender). 

how the n80 fails: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IWzZzZb6B8

purge valve locations; evap system diagram and testing procedures: (N80 purge valve)

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ontrol_valve/component_information/locations/

canister: 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ter/component_information/service_and_repair/

leak detection pump: 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...component_information/testing_and_inspection/

3. For the tiptronic, the magnet has been a problem and others have fixed, troubleshot this is issue before. I don't know about long term problems but I would get it repaired asap, as it could potentially cause problems and a rebuilt tiptronic trans, are not cheap to repair. You might post on newbeetle.org; as others, have repaired this issue. VW specific trouble codes from the transmission controller; could shed some light, on the specific issue, although it sounds like the magnet is a known problem. Here are some links and note the VW tech bulletin about the problem: 

http://newbeetle.org/forums/gtsearc...iteurl=newbeetle.org/&ref=&ss=9352j2772160j46

Check out this link and the magnet issue, alignment procedure: (VW Technical Service Bulletin # 37-07-07): 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01045

I would recommend that you invest in a VW specific scan tool; to troubleshoot and scan for VW trouble codes. For $60 the OBDelven, is a wireless dongle, that runs on Android devices and it is a affordable solution. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=obd...47j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=obdeleven&*

There are others, like handheld chinese vw/"vag" scanners (limited support) and then there is VCDS by Ross Tech, it runs on a windows pc, in the $200 plus range. 

http://www.ross-tech.com/index.html

Trouble codes, can really help you diagnose problems and a good vw scanner, can do many other tests, coding, throttle body alignments, etc. Anyone, that is going to do his/her own repairs; will need to have a vw scanner, to correctly diagnose and complete repairs.


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Having fun with the little convertible. I just want it up-and-running for my daughter.

A previous owner had put some H7 HID headlight bulbs in the factory housings (and they weren't working). They kinda butchered the installation job, so I undid it and put regular H7 headlight bulbs in the housing. 

Do these bugs have their headlights on all the time when the engine is running? Don't have the owner's manual yet, so don't know what right looks like. 

Top alarming: I tried resetting the windows (somehow they're connected to the convertible top electronics of so I've read), and sprayed some WD-40 in the passenger side windshield where the top latches to no avail. I also put the top up-and-down a couple times to see if I could make it happy knowing it was securely fastened closed to no avail - still alarms for 10 seconds every time we take off from a standstill. It is happy when down, but not happy when up. So I ordered an F202 switch. If anyone has a "how-to" link for getting in there and replacing it that would be great. I figured I'd try that before taking it to a place that specializes in convertible tops.

The driver's seat doesn't want to pump up; any suggestions? Any common culprits? I messed with it some this afternoon to no avail.

Cool looking bug; and my daughter's loving it. I'll like it more when I can get that alarm to stop!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

For the headlights: they have daytime running lights, they stay on but turn off, if you pull up on the parking brake. 

For the top, like I said different sensors can fail but to know for sure, a VW scan tool, will show you trouble codes for the top and the code will tell you what sensor is bad. At $60 OBDeleven can save you allot of money and that way, you don't throw parts at a problem but have more info, to correctly troubleshoot the problem with VW codes to refer to. 

To search for VW trouble code definitions and troubleshooting info; search on the ross tech site: (use the "search" feature or look at the "trouble codes" section of the wiki): 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

Here is the sensor you are referring to; check out the rest of the service manual for top related info and troubleshooting/repairs. 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ble_top_open_position_switch_f171/page_14817/

Here is a good manual for the convertible top; download the self study program for VW techs: "ssp281 The New Beetle Cabriolet", to get a overview of how the system works, how to activate all the features and where the sensors are located. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=new...&ie=UTF-8#q=ssp281+The+New+Beetle+Cabriolet&*

For the seat adjustment not working; is it a powered or manual adjustment seat? For up and down height; there is typically, a manual "jack" style adjustment (up or down).


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Billymade - thanks for the info and references! I'll start checking the Secondary Air Injection system tomorrow (hopefully just a cracked hose somewhere). 

Thanks for letting me know about the headlights. I took it out this evening and adjusted them - they were way off. I need to go buy a ball-head 6mm hex wrench for future adjustments.

The seat is a manual "pump up and down" seat. My daughter will just have to drive sitting low for a while. She told me it has butt warmers - nice. 

Right now I just want to get the check engine light to stay off (came back on tonight; I'm figuring the same 0411 code), and for that top alarm to shut up (F202 switch ordered)! I'd be happy to just find the buzzer and turn it off till I can get it properly fixed. The top is secured.

If the weather's nice tomorrow I might hit some more junkyard and see if I can find a bug like ours with the tiptronic tranny that hasn't already been stripped. 

I didn't know this bug was going to become such the project! Good thing I'm a gearhead.


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

So to get to the air pump, you have to remove the driver's side wheel and tire, and the inner fender lining. Done.

Started it up cold, and felt the pump. Didn't really feel or hear anything.

I'm not sure the pump is getting power. I unplugged the wiring to the pump, and an hour later started it and put a simple circuit tester to check to see if either of the two ports was getting power. Nope. I'll check again in another hour when I know the engine is cool (it was before, but just to double-check).

So I googled where the relays and fuses were, and got this:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa.../locations/fuel_pump_(fp)_relay_j17/page_740/

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...formation/locations/fuel_pump_(fp)_relay_j17/

I'm figuring the 2008 is the same as the 2007. So now I need to pull the lower panel off and check the fuse and relay. So now I'm trying to figure out how to remove this panel without breaking anything. Fun fun.


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Fun fun.

Got the lower panel off so I could have access to the relays and such. Definitely not designed for easy access. The fuse looked good; couldn't tell by looking at the circuit breaker if it was good or not, so I went and got a replacement while I was there. Cleared the 0411 code, so we'll see if it comes back. Never could tell if I was getting power to the air pump itself; I had it unplugged and had a test light trying to see if I got power to either of the two female plugs-ins on the wiring. If the 0411 code comes back, I guess I didn't fix it. I didn't see any breaks in the hoses and tubes for the air pump system. How loud is that air pump anyways when running? I know it only runs for a minute or so first thing on cold starts. 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1058942&cc=1441999&jsn=393&jsn=393

And I should have replaced the fuel pump relay while I was there in case that was the cause. If the code comes back, that'll be my next attempt.

While I had my torx bit set out, I went ahead and pulled off the top of the dash to see if I could find the buzzer for the convertible top alarm. There was a ton of little pine needles and leaves and such in there (and from watching VW videos that isn't anything strange).  I vacuumed them all out, and no buzzer. It sounds like it is around the speedometer housing. 

So I called it a day and put it all back together. Got the F202 part on order to see if that'll fix the top alarm; should be here next week. 

Lots of good info and links on this forum. Thanks all!


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

A vw scan tool: would really help, you diagnose things more intelligently (like the convertible top).


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

billymade01 said:


> A vw scan tool: would really help, you diagnose things more intelligently (like the convertible top).


You are correct. That would be better in the long run vs. me just buying random parts hoping that'll fix the issue.

The check engine light came on again on the Beetle (0411), so I'm going to try swapping out the Fuel Pump Relay next (that's on the Ross-Tech Wiki solution guide). If that doesn't fix it, I'll seriously consider getting one. And I've got the F202 part ordered (has been shipped) for the top.


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

Ok, let us know; how things turn out. Thanks.


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

The F202 switch came in, I replaced it, and now the top is working like it should (no more alarming telling me the top isn't up and securely fastened). It wasn't easy getting to the switch, but doable in the end. Thank-you billymade for the links and such to get me going.

I swapped out the fuel pump relay and cleared the 0411 code; we'll see if the check engine light comes back on with the same code.

Next project: the seat lifter thingy. It is a manual pump mechanism thing to raise and lower the seat. Does anyone know if it is a module type thing that can be pulled from one seat and installed in another? I might hit a junkyard tomorrow to see if I can pull one if it is. 

I'm glad my daughter is loving this little beetle. I'm just working through the little issues you get when you buy a used vehicle.


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

Good, glad you got the top fixed; luckily you chose the right sensor! 

Here is the service manual section for the seats; mostly wiring diagrams:!

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...eat/component_information/service_and_repair/


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

More fun stuff (or leaning as I go).

The front driver's side inner fender well had a chunk taken out of it recently. Looked like it was rubbing against the tire. The part that the fender well attaches to along that area had broken off the fender. So today I went to the junkyard to get another fender well.

The first junkyard I went to (that I had gone to on Sunday) crushed the Bug they had a few days ago, but they (Pick and Pull) had another yard about a half-hour away with three Bugs. So I went there and pulled an inner fender well. I learned that my 08 fender well is slightly different from the earlier new beetles. I super glued the part that came off the inside of the fender, and installed the junkyard fender well using part of the old one to close the gap. If I didn't point it out to you, you'd never know.

The reason I was doing all this was because I went to replace the secondary air pump (it is under the driver's side front fender well). Changing out relays didn't work, and Advanced Auto was having a 20% 0ff special, plus I had a $5 coupon so I sprung for a new pump. Once I pulled the old pump, it was nasty - looked like it hadn't been working in a while. Water poured out, and the insides were all rusty and corroded. So hopefully this'll do the trick for the 0411 code (I cleared it - we'll see). The Dorman replacement air pump was supposed to come with the correct plug, but it didn't work. I ended up cutting the plug off the old air pump and splicing it into the wiring for the new pump. 

Yesterday I went to a junkyard and pulled a driver's seat out of a wrecked Bug with the manual seat pump thingy (that raises and lowers the seat height). So another of my Bug projects today was to figure out if I could swap out the pump mechanism. Short answer: Yes (it was a PIA though). We now have a functioning seat height adjuster. So now my daughter doesn't have to be driving all ghetto style sitting way low.


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

Good progress!  On the sai system and water in the pump; i would check all the hoses are not broken, plus the kombi valve works as it should. Basically, confirm all of the components of the sai system are working. This video talks about how the system works: https://youtu.be/Zj-_bAiPq9Y

Service manual for the sai system: 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...component_information/testing_and_inspection/


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

billymade01 said:


> Good progress!  On the sai system and water in the pump; i would check all the hoses are not broken, plus the kombi valve works as it should. Basically, confirm all of the components of the sai system are working. This video talks about how the system works: https://youtu.be/Zj-_bAiPq9Y
> 
> Service manual for the sai system:
> 
> http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...component_information/testing_and_inspection/


Thanks. I'm hoping with the air pump looking as bad as it did (it looked decrepit), and having also replaced both the Fuel Pump and Secondary Air Pump Relays, that this problem is fixed (we'll see if the check engine light comes back on with code 0411 - I am so glad I own a code reader). I pulled the hose off the Kombi Valve prior and checked to see if it was clean inside - it was. And all the hoses seemed solid from what I could tell. I made sure the hoses attaching to the air pump were securely seated when I put it back together. 

I didn't see a vacuum line going to the Kombi valve, so I'm thinking it is electronically triggered, and the Ross-Teck Wiki download didn't mention a vacuum valve thingy or vacuum lines in their trouble shooting or repair section.

So other than needing door speaker covers, I think all the mechanical and related "stuff" are done with this car for now. My daughter will be going back to college next week (local), so I want her car to be good-to-go. 

Oh; I've got the 2.5L engine. How do you get that plastic black and silver cover thingy off the top of the engine? I don't want to just pull on it and break it.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

quote: "the engine cover is really easy to remove. just give it an upward tug on one of the front corners...not too hard though....you'll see it'll release without much effort. the front comes off first and then there's two clips on the back....

just reverse the process to replace...."

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-5-liter-gas/42291-engine-bay.html


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

Speaker covers: 

https://www.google.com/search?q=new...vers&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

billymade01 said:


> Speaker covers:
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=new...vers&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari



The door opening for the speakers are 7.5" across. One speaker is missing the cover; the other door has a cover, but it has come loose and is slid down slightly inside the door (but I should be able to just pull it out the speaker opening hole). I really don't want to take the door panels off, so I am going to go to a car stereo shop Monday and see if they have any 8" diameter speaker covers (with screw holes around the perimeter) that I can just screw into the door panels to cover the openings. I just want to protect the speakers and cover the holes. If I can find one with a thin rimmed chrome ring (with black mesh) that would work, that would look nice.

I guess there are two different door panel styles. This is hers:

https://parts.vw.com/a/Volkswagen_2008_Beetle-ConvertibleS/_51505_5985859/INTERIOR-TRIM/9211415.html

This is the other door panel (the ones I usually find on junked Bugs):

https://parts.vw.com/a/Volkswagen_2...51505_5965184/INTERIOR-TRIM-Door/9210410.html

Why two different style door panels? This Bug has the Monsoon stereo system; is that the reason? I've yet to see another inside door panel like the one we have during my junkyard searching (when the door panels are still on the vehicle I should say).


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Arrggh! This is turning into a blog. Maybe someone can learn from it.

Recap: I've been getting the 0411 check engine code (secondary air injection system: incorrect flow detected) on my daughter's 2008 Bug with the 2.5 engine. It was doing this when we bought it, so we knew there was an issue. So I'd been working down the Ross-Tech Wiki algorithm from simplest and least expensive to most complex/expensive. 

I checked all the hoses - didn't find anything.

Replaced the Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay under the dash - didn't do anything. (~ $12.00)

Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay under the dash - didn't do anything. (~ $50.00)

So now I've got spare relays.

Replaced the Secondary Air Injection Pump itself. * It had a lot of water in it *and was all corroded inside. Definitely needed replacing - thought I had finally found the problem and fixed it. (~ $95.00). 

Check engine light came back on the next time she drove it (0411).

So what's left? The Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve N112 (aka "Kombi Valve"). I had done the "finger test" on the Kombi Valve and it had come back clean. But in my reading (googling this stuff), if this N112 solenoid goes bad, it can allow exhaust to go back to the pump. This exhaust is humid, and can cause condensation in the pump and fill it with water (and ruining the pump). VW dealer wants about $265 for the part; I can get it on-line for about $125 (plus the cost of a gasket and shipping). So I told my daughter to park her Bug till I can get this part replaced. It makes sense, and hopefully this'll do it. I'll let you know. I'm running out of options.

https://shopdap.com/store/vw-2-5-combination-valve-07k131351c.html


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

That was my concern about the ruined sai pump filled with water; addressing the symptom,!rather than the primary problem. Let us know, if the kombi valve fixes it.

Output testing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woyBkEvZtLA&feature=share

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...component_information/testing_and_inspection/


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

billymade01 said:


> That was my concern about the ruined sai pump filled with water; addressing the symptom,!rather than the primary problem. Let us know, if the kombi valve fixes it.
> 
> Output testing:
> 
> ...


Yup; I'm learning as I go. And thanks - I appreciate any and all links related to the Kombi valve. I'm a gearhead, but this SAI (and troubleshooting) stuff is new territory for me (hence the learning curve). My previous studying up on this VW 0411 stuff mentioned the Kombi valve as part of the SAI system, but didn't mention the condensation and water in the pump if the Kombi valve was bad. The only thing I saw was the "finger test" where if you removed the hose and there was soot in there, the valve was bad; otherwise it was considered good (or working properly). Doing further reading after I replaced the pump (which definitely needed to be replaced - it was filled with water and corroded) did I find out about the connection with the bad Kombi valve and condensation/water in the pump - makes sense - I hope that's it. Here in WA we've been getting A LOT of rain, so I figured the water in the pump was somehow related to all the rain.

And I'm in the medical profession (armyRN - get it?), so I definitely get the symptom vs. primary problem thing. 

So (sigh) this morning I ordered the Kombi valve and two gaskets (~ $188.00 total with shipping) from VW Parts Vortex, and will get it all installed as soon as parts arrives. I'll let you all know if the check engine light comes back on afterwards with the 0411 code.


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## billymade01 (Apr 27, 2015)

For vw dealer parts, i have been using these guys lately; some of the best prices i have found and their shipping price for small items is reasonable using usps.

https://www.volkswagenpartsplus.com


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

So it took a while for the Kombi valve and gaskets to get in, but they finally arrived. Got it installed (another PIA job), and then told my daughter to let me know if the check engine light came back on. It came back on - same 0411 code.

So I've replaced the fuel pump relay and secondary air pump relay, the secondary air pump fuse, the secondary air pump itself, and now this Kombi valve with no luck. Still getting the 0411 code.

In messing with it, it seems the Kombi valve is working, but the new air pump isn't getting power (or isn't working if it does get power). Monday I'm bringing it to a shop to have a diagnostic run to see if they can find the broken link in the system. 

It totally doesn't affect drivability (this 0411 code issue), it just keeps the check engine light on. So if something else went wrong, I wouldn't know it because the check engine light is already lit. 

I will let you know what they find out.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16795/P0411/001041

Hmm, so you have replaced most of the parts of the sai system; the only thing left is the n112? Does the air pump; ever come on?

Possible Causes
Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty
Hoses/Pipes to/between Components faulty/clogged
Secondary Air Injection Pump (V101) faulty
Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay (J299) faulty
Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) faulty


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

To recap: I am getting the 0411 CE code. Replaced the fuse, air pump relay, fuel pump relay, air pump itself, and Kombi valve. Nothing seemed to work (still getting 0411 code after I've cleared it). I gave up - tried or replaced everything I could think of (or was told to check/replace according to the repair algorithm). 

The Kombi valve works, but the air pump didn't want to run. Didn't know if it was just not working, or if it wasn't getting power.

I brought it to a very reputable shop here in town with all the diagnostic equipment. They did a full diagnostic work-up, and their finding was... the secondary air pump I bought (and installed) was bad. And I talked to the owner of the shop who actually did the diagnostic work - he said they get bad new replacement parts all the time.

So I will be getting a replacement air pump soon (exchanging it), and will make sure it works (bench check it) when getting power before swapping it out. Here's hoping it works. Should know by next week.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Glad you found the problem; this is another case where new parts being bad, can be very confusing and make troubleshooting, a challenge. Let us know, how rhe new part test goes and if the install fixes the problem. Thanks! 

PS: with all new parts; you shouldn't have any sai system problems for while!


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Ok; so I went and picked-up the new secondary air pump. I bench tested it at home before doing anything, and it worked. Pulled the old one (the "new one" I had just put in a few weeks ago) and bench tested it - nothing. So hopefully that's what the problem is/was; a new secondary air pump that was bad from the start (the original one I pulled was very bad and corroded inside). Put the new one from today in and called it good. Cleared the code, and told my daughter (who drives the car) to let me know if the check engine light comes back on. She knows the drill; we've been doing this for a while. I'll let you all know if the code returns (this car has been a little bit of a saga the short time we've owned it).

I drove the bug to return the defective air pump to the parts store (I very rarely drive it - it is my daughter's car), and noticed the dash lights would sometime flicker off for just a split second, and then back on for a bit, and then repeat. Seems to do it a couple times a minute (3-5 times/minute?). Looks like when it does it, the speedometer needle starts to drop too. When I got home I asked my daughter about it, and she said "yeah - it does that". Suggestions? What's going out next on this thing? I don't want it to die somewhere with my daughter driving it. 

It is a cute clean car, and plenty of pep with this 2.5 engine. I'd like it to last a while, and be somewhat dependable.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Hmm, on the speedo cluster; i wonder if there is a connectivity problem at the plug, on the back. You might remove it and confirm the plugs are locked in place: 

http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/45794-instrument-cluster-diy.html#/topics/45794?page=1


I have seen blinking illumination on my speedo but that was when i was having a charging problem or a low battery. It couldn't hurt to have the whole charging system checked; make sure everything is ok.

As these cars age, we are seeing; speedo failures which cause all kinds of problems (gauges stop working, etc). If the speedo ends up being defective; you can have it repaired, bba reman offers a lifetime warranty on their repair service @ $250. 

https://www.google.com/search?clien...TiL_TAhUJrlQKHZt3A2YQvwUIFigA&biw=375&bih=559

Also, it couldn't hurt to scan the car for trouble codes with a vw specific scan tool. If you are going to keep the car for awhile; a vw scan tool, will really save you money and help, you troubleshoot problems.

You might check out these vw scan tools: the vag 401, obdeleven that runs on android devices and vcds by ross tech, that runs on a windows pc.


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

My daughter has driven the bug the last couple days, and NO CODES!!!!! Finally done with this 0411 it seems.

I'll start checking grounds next to see if that'll stop the dash light flicker. And see how old the battery is.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Good, sounds like you are making progress.


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

At least no more CE light. This forum has been great helping me with this little bug.

If the battery is old, I'll just go ahead and replace it for good measure (currently starts fine). We'll see if that fixes the dash lights flickering (worst case scenario the bug gets a new battery it may not have needed). But in reading threads about changing out the bug battery, it sounds like a nightmare! Things stop working afterwards, etc. And I've replaced a lot of batteries over the years.

One of the issues I've read about is the radio might need a code to get working again after replacing the battery (I guess if it says "SAFE" you need to enter a code). The bug has the monsoon stereo system in it if that makes it special. Who knows how many owners this thing has had (2008 convertible 2.5/auto) so there's no radio code written down anywhere. How can I go about getting the radio's code before I go dinking around with the battery? I read there are grounds under the battery, so if I pull the battery to check the grounds there, if it is old I might as well toss a new one in there if the battery is more than just a couple years old.

We're going to be going to the dealer to get a new key made sometime soon. Can they scan the system for the radio code while they're messing with it?

And is there something you need to do to reprogram the windows? Seems like there was some sequence you had to go through with the master window switch and the ignition key.

My first car (a 63 bug) didn't have these issues.

Good thing my daughter enjoys this little car!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

As for the battery; don't throw parts at the flickering issue, have the electrical system check and testing, to confirm. I just replaced my battery and stepped up to a higher quality and CCA; it has made a difference, when it comes to turning over the engine (much faster). So, I think, that I had a under spec battery; based upon, how this new one is. I bought the Autozone house brand: Duralast Platinum BCI Part #: H5-AGM CCA: 680 Amp Hours: 60

To get you up to speed on the key fob situation and programming; check out this faq: 

http://www.fixmyvw.com/vw-key-fob-programming-guide/

As for the radio; most of the time, if you do a basic power/on off, you will be ok but sometimes, "safemode" will be persistent. At that point you need the radio code; there are some online sources and then, you local dealer, should be a able to help, look it up for you (you need the number on top of radio).

https://www.google.com/search?q=rad...rome..69i57.3814j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

So I wanted another key made for the bug. You can't just go to ACE hardware and get one cut. So we went to the dealer, and it was going to be around $300 (ouch). Half now to order the key, and then the rest when the dealer does their magic to match the key to the car.

So ordered key, key came in, wife and daughter went to the dealer to get it done, and they had a problem - wouldn't work. They thought they had a defective key. Dealer ordered another one, and would call when it came in.

Key came in, wife and daughter went to the dealer to get it done, and they had a problem - wouldn't work. They thought they might have ordered the wrong part (twice; last time and this time). Lots of head scratching, apologies, researching the issue, etc. They said they would order "the right" key, and would call when it came in.

Key came in, wife and daughter went to the dealer to get it done, it worked this time. The dealer also didn't charge for the balance due (which was nice - was going to be over $100). 

So now we have a second key "just in case".


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Cool, glad you got it handled; even the vw dealers screw things up!  My local VW dealer service dept. is a total disaster! Lol!


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## armyRN (Mar 16, 2017)

Beetle has been running nice. And now that it is warmer, my daughter and her Mom have been driving it with the top down.

One issue I've known about her bug is it has an oil leak. From what I've read, this seems to be a common problem with the 2.5 engine; specifically with the brake vacuum pump. 

Spulen sells a brake vacuum pump delete kit for $100. Looks like it is a little bit of a PIA to install, but I'm handy with a wrench. I'd be willing to give it a shot/risk $100 before bringing it to a shop to delve into where the oil leak is coming from. 

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Spulen-2.5L-Brake-Vacuum-Pump-Delete-Kit.html

Anybody installed one? Thoughts? Helpful hints for the install? I was having issues with the search function - will try again.

Thanks!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

On the newbeetle.org site; members have done the install and have said, they had positive results. One issue that seems to have come up; as the kit was NOT specifically designed for the new beetle but for the jetta/golf, is the new hoses have some clearance issues with the plastic engine cover (slight modification, seems to fix the problem). 

Read more here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums#/topics/106226


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