# 8v weber downdraft build



## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Alright, so I thought it'll be great to post a build thread about this. I see a lot of people doing bike carbs and DCOE's. But I never seen a downdraft thread, there's always a first huh? (I know people have probably done this already, but I'm gonna post it anyway.) I'm going downdraft 'cause of lack of money to get dual sidedrafts. plus i fell in love with the throttle response after i drove my friend AE86 with a 3tc engine which has the same carb. it's 10 fold better than the throttle response i got from digi2.

Oh, and sorry in advance for mediocre cellphone pics :/

So far I've done the following.
1. Bought a weber downdraft kit for the 8v at BFI (not to mention other parts from BFI, really awesome people over the phone) It comes with everything from linkage, manifold, carb, filter, and nuts and studs. Everything needed besides fuel pump FPR, and throttle cable)


















2. Got a redline fuel pump, a weber distributor 35GPH and 4-6psi (i have no idea what it means "4-6psi" maybe it changes with amperage at full throttle or something)










3. Holley FPR, 1inlet and 2outlets. pre-installed at 2.7psi. Good psi setting from what i've been reading around the forums. i bought the the inlets and plugs for about 2 bucks each











4. MSD blaster 2 coil.










5.MSD ignition 6al (just got it today, pretty cool looking box, and awesome from reviews i've seen on other applications








.


So I started to take off the intake, fuel rails and when i got to take off the intake manifold...
It is pure hell. So i decided, **** it. I'm going to take off the head and check if i have any bent valves (timing belt went to **** a while back, and i noticed a loss in power, but i probably did the timing wrong) It ended up being wrong my valves were fine. Just a **** load of carbon build up and just pure ass lol. Tip! If you have a single outlet manifold be ready to see sparks. Since I didn't have a wedge(bentley says to get a wedge to put inside the clamps to take them out) i got my breaker bar inside the clamp - closest to the battery and gave it a few yanks and PING **** sparked up and went straight to firewall and fell to the ground. firewall is fine, no cracks, chips, or dents. As for the other one toward the TB side. get on top of your fender and pull the head out at an angle in which the clamp will bend in and explode outwards and toward the floor like the other. Very unorthodox but it work and it's awesome to say "DO WORK SON!" with all that testosterone running. Lucky me I did it with a friend. Here's the outcome with the head and intake manifold of with some cleaning.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

will post more soon!


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## hastethemoment (Nov 3, 2010)

updates? Wanna do the SAME thing...87 kjet 8v(stock) to the BFI basic weber carb.

I wanna see all the wiring your able to remove , engine bay pics please?

Also just switching to this carb with decent tune I dont see why we cant get an extra few hp out of it? Esp with full exhaust/cam?


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Taking out the wiring is a huge head ache. Power wise i have no idea. But now theres practically no restriction on fuel/air going into the engine. it's all dependent on the carb. There's no ECU getting in the way. I shall post pics in a bit of the progress i've made.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

if you take out all the sensors and wiring that doesnt deal with the lights or main power (battery cable and such) you'll be left with a thin red and black wire that comes from the coil. i believe thats the positive and negative and when your key is on ON or ACC whatever it is, it sends signal to the coil. there should be two wires into a plastic piece, with the exact to wires coming out the opposite end, sorta like a crimp, to the wiring harness. and with that. bam de wired. there's other wires there too. i tucked them behind driver side strut side. i'll post where to wire the red wire to ignite the msd box once i get my grounds back grounded and a voltmeter!


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## A1an (Mar 22, 2007)

Looking forward to an update with pics of the install, wiring, etc. Thinking about eventually doing this with my 8v. 

Are you still running air conditioning?


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## hastethemoment (Nov 3, 2010)

yeah ive already started pulling wires..all i Have on pass side is headlight and turn harness. My car is already been pulled of AC/ Power steering(lines looped). Just gotta keep the stock ignition, and all the dash sensors(oil pressure, temp, ect).

Having tough time of deciding doing this or going the R1 carb route....R1 carb will take alot longer to tune though(and making intake manifold) vs throw this in and go once the jetting is fine.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

that's pretty sick dude, for me this is just going to be my daily until i get dual side drafts on a ABF build i'm doing. Aiming for a total rebuild of an engine, but since that takes time this is just to get my car back on the road but carb'd i'm going to be posting a helluva-lot pictures tomorrow once the sun is out!


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## petergiarrizzo (May 31, 2010)

Just outta curiosity, I drive a 1996 Golf CL. Its a 1.8L 8V motor. (Canadian Model). It has the intake manifold facing the rear of the car, similar to yours, and its basically (from what ive made sense) run on a carburator (maybe even just a simple throttle body). would this kit work for it?

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=5262956&l=a0ba1550f5&id=504038766

thats a picture of my engine bay. (dont laugh too hard) but tell me what you think


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## hastethemoment (Nov 3, 2010)

yup. You are removing all the old intake/fuel system. So all that would go and be replaced with a new intake manifold, ect. You can also remove all the wires that connect to the intake, since they are no longer needed.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

UPDATE! Unfortunately I have not been able to post up pictures. BUT! I will be getting a camera on payday, along with new fuel filter, my head being squeky clean, and ordering of new parts like (spark plug wires). And for letting you guys down. I'll step-by-step instructions of the whole install


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## A1an (Mar 22, 2007)

Looking forward to it!


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

petergiarrizzo said:


> Just outta curiosity, I drive a 1996 Golf CL. Its a 1.8L 8V motor. (Canadian Model). It has the intake manifold facing the rear of the car, similar to yours, and its basically (from what ive made sense) run on a carburator (maybe even just a simple throttle body). would this kit work for it?
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=5262956&l=a0ba1550f5&id=504038766
> 
> thats a picture of my engine bay. (dont laugh too hard) but tell me what you think


It won't fit. I've modified those intakes for single downdrafts...but it's not the best way. An adapter plate would be needed, custom made unfortunately. The bolt spread is different than any of the former VW-based carb systems out there.

You might want to re-think carbs though...it'll never pass emissions at a 1996 level with one on it. Unless you've got a VERY good, old-school carb tuner in your back pocket...who also owns an emissions shop, lol.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

B4S said:


> It won't fit. I've modified those intakes for single downdrafts...but it's not the best way. An adapter plate would be needed, custom made unfortunately. The bolt spread is different than any of the former VW-based carb systems out there.
> 
> You might want to re-think carbs though...it'll never pass emissions at a 1996 level with one on it. Unless you've got a VERY good, old-school carb tuner in your back pocket...who also owns an emissions shop, lol.


OR run your own emissions shop ;D


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## petergiarrizzo (May 31, 2010)

Ha ha ha ha yeah i didnt think it would pass emissions. and the custom adapter plate would be....fun... to make  but would it give some more horsies?


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

IMO, it would. The throttle bore of the CL 1.8 TBI is just about loonie or toonie sized. Add a second throttle opening in there and you'd probably add a few extra horses to the motor. The manifolds have a heat 'hedgehog' in them too, smooth that out and you'll flow a bit better, at the expense of some cold driveability .

I don't think you'd get more than 5-6hp, but I've owned a CL before...I know anything helps .


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Hey guys, sorry about the delay.Had a busy weekend. But as I promised I got pics! The head is still off, I went to a machine shop and the dude said I needed new valve seals. So those are coming on the 8th and I have to wait till my next paycheck to get my head cleaned out so it's funky fresh and ready for the carb lol. Well for wiring. I unplugged the ECU and all the wires and connections that went to the wires. 









So I got those guys out. I've been reading around and I've seen guys keep the ICM wired up to the distributor and ignition and have the MSD as well for it's power I guess. So I'm gonna try that out. I think it would work out.








Wiring Key: heavy red-battery terminal, heavy black- ground. orange:+on coil, black: (-)on coil. red to 12v switched to IGNITION (i got lucky, i think the PO tried to wire up a gauge or something)









So here is the bay after everything. I tucked some stuff behind the strut tower I don't remember where it was.


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## doctor12valve (Jul 20, 2005)

Bump! Lets see more :thumbup:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Sorry about not updating! Haven't had the time. But today I do! I got some stuff in the mail. 








8v silicone cooling kit i got from BFI, once again..cool people to work with. 








and spark plug wires. from bfi...ditto lol. 


I'm having a difficult time figuring out how my linkage and my carburetor works. but i think i figured it out. i'll post more pics tonight. Even though it's flipping freezing down here in miami it's 59*F cloudy and windy. Us miami-people are really not used to this >.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Update! So what I did today was change the fuel filter. Apparently the PO didn't change it at all. T_T 
NEW: 








OLD: 








Srsly d00d. Damn -.- P.S I highly recommend you work in a well ventilated area when doing this. If you're unlucky as me you'd probably get close to the filter to get leverage on the hoses that have not been touch since '92 and fuel will fall all over you and smell and become flammable. 

I also got my exhaust manifold off the head. I had a stripped bolt, but I felt confident that I could take it out like a G. And I did. 








Gonna clean it tomorrow once I get my valve spring compressor tool. 
If you scroll up that's how it looked with SOME cleaning. Now this is it now. Unfortunately I ran out of degreaser  








Can't wait to see how much better my car is going to run. Gonna post up the cleaning of the valvetrain tomorrow along with my linkage on the carb. Dudes at Redline Weber aren't much help with their "You could figure it out on your own from here on" T_T dickbutt.


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## petergiarrizzo (May 31, 2010)

B4S said:


> IMO, it would. The throttle bore of the CL 1.8 TBI is just about loonie or toonie sized. Add a second throttle opening in there and you'd probably add a few extra horses to the motor. The manifolds have a heat 'hedgehog' in them too, smooth that out and you'll flow a bit better, at the expense of some cold driveability .
> 
> I don't think you'd get more than 5-6hp, but I've owned a CL before...I know anything helps .


 Yeah thats for sure, again thanks for the advice. any other tricks up your sleeve for a few extra horsies? im sure there arent many, but breaking the 100HP mark would be nice  hahahaha


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

It's not feasible to break the 100 hp barrier on a CL, mainly because the management is VERY limited. You can do an intake, but are limited by the TB. Exhaust is easy to do, but is really just for sound IMO. Not being able to optimize the timing/fuel for a cam or a bit more intake flow is where the issue lies. The intake valves are also only 38mm, vs. the regular 8v's 40mm, and the cam is VERY mild. It's got almost 0* of overlap, so the ECU is basically designed for pure fuel efficiency. 

A mild cam could wake it up a bit, and an exhaust will make it sound faster...but it's just not worth trying more than that, since the ECU is locked out .


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

To the OP, how do you plan on getting the exhaust manifold clamps back on? Are you going to buy/make the tool or are you getting a header? Or are you switching to a dual outlet manifold and downpipe?


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

I'm going to clamp it back on, a friend of mine gave me the idea of jacking up the downpipe part of the manifold. Got a new gasket for it. should be pretty easy to get back on. Eventually I'd like to get a header or dual outlet manifold. But I'm going 16v/ABFclone once I get all the parts together


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Snatcher said:


> I'm going to clamp it back on, a friend of mine gave me the idea of jacking up the downpipe part of the manifold. Got a new gasket for it. should be pretty easy to get back on. Eventually I'd like to get a header or dual outlet manifold. But I'm going 16v/ABFclone once I get all the parts together


 :facepalm:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> :facepalm:


 Or do as the bentley says. Get that chisel and do it properly -.-


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## haybayian (Dec 5, 2007)

Thanks for posting about your downdraft carb set up. As I am about to do something comparable I am glad to watch what you are doing. I am converting a 1998 ABA from EFI to carbs. My system will involve 4 downdraft webers 34 ICH. My hope is to use the stock VW manifold (lower end only) with a minor adapter. I do not have the carbs yet, so I cannot show pictures, but I will. 

My question to you is about the MDS 6 al ignition module that you have bought. How are you going to use this? Could you describe your ignition system as you have planned it? 

haybayian.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

haybayian said:


> Thanks for posting about your downdraft carb set up. As I am about to do something comparable I am glad to watch what you are doing. I am converting a 1998 ABA from EFI to carbs. My system will involve 4 downdraft webers 34 ICH. My hope is to use the stock VW manifold (lower end only) with a minor adapter. I do not have the carbs yet, so I cannot show pictures, but I will.
> 
> My question to you is about the MDS 6 al ignition module that you have bought. How are you going to use this? Could you describe your ignition system as you have planned it?
> 
> haybayian.


 Haha, no worries man. Carbs are a cool set up so I decided to share ze experience. Why don't you try doing dual 45DCOE's? 2 carbs are easier to tune than 4. The way I plan to run the msd is have it powered by the battery terminal (it's what the instructions say). Have the coil powered by it. And advance the distributor since Weber's like to run with advance timing (from what I've read on vwvortex/club4ag) So I'm going to have the msd power the coil. coil sends spark to distributor. The rest is self-explanatory. I've read people running the stock ICM. I'll probably do that too, having msd shooting it's multi-spark power


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## xPat (Aug 9, 2006)

I feel i should warn you of a problem your might run into using that carb on your VW. I had done a similar setup on my cabriolet 2 years ago. I purchased a DGES 38 kit from Redline racing off eBay. 

If your carb is anything like mine the main jets are at a 45 degree angle on the side of the float bowl. This carb is designed to be mounted with the main jets towards the firewall of the car. When mounted on our engines they will point to either the right or left wheel well. In this orientation you will experience either starvation or flooding while cornering.

I was told by Pierce Manifolds that only the Weber progressive downdraft carbs could be used on our engines, I switched to Megasquirt.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

The one I got is a 32/36 DFAV it's a progressive downdraft carb. But thanks for the heads up. I don't want to take a sharp turn and my car shut off on me.:thumbup:


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

That bit of info is complete bunk IMO. The progressive carb has the exact same main jet configuration as the 38 DGES/DGAS, and nobody ever complains about fuel starvation. It's an OEM carb on a million different cars, still in use today in hundreds of countries. If your fuel pressure is set properly, the float height is correct, and your fuel delivery system is up to par, you'll experience no such issues. 

The big issue with carbs (around here anyway), is that they're frequently installed and tuned from incorrect information (again, from here). A carb is far more difficult to tune than most people think it is, and most folks don't bother trying to get it right before they swap it off for a poorly-tuned EFI that they feel is 'better'.


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## Mk1 Fish (May 5, 2009)

getting those exhaust clamps on is hell without the tool or some creative thinking. your friends idea of the jack will work to hold the down pipe in place but those clamps have a lot of tension, new ones will have more. take 2 old alternator belts, one for each clamp. place the upper hook of your clamp on the mani, get your belt on the lower hook, then find a big ass pry bar. prying down on the belt will get the clamp close, then have a buddy with another pry bar push the clamp over to the down pipe and release tension. you will have to cut the belts to get them off the car. hence, use 'old' belts. did this trick a few times then bought the tool...


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

I just invert an exhaust clamp and use it as a spreader.


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

B4S said:


> I just invert an exhaust clamp and use it as a spreader.


That method works great, almost as well as the special tools specifically designed for the purpose.


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## Mk1 Fish (May 5, 2009)

B4S said:


> I just invert an exhaust clamp and use it as a spreader.


very nice:thumbup: that pretty much is the tool, but free :laugh:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

oh ****. that's epic. Thanks for letting me know, i'm definitely doing that..


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

Sorry to be the guy, but you've got the carb, manifold, MSD ignition, and you're going to put the most restrictive, worst flowing exhaust manifold ever produced back on the car? :facepalm: You're $$ would've been better spent on the manifold upgrade and keeping the digi, from a performance stand point.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Christmas came around, so i gotta buy presents for mah friends >.< but in jan i'm getting headers, i know the manifold is super ****ty, but it's all i got atm.


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## krayzkrn (May 31, 2008)

What would be a good exhaust mani upgrade, I know there are some oem pieces that are better. I'm keeping track of this thread, looking to upgrade to a 32/36 or dcoe once I do a compression test on my current motor.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

anything other than the stock on you have at the moment lol. it's 4-1. the 8v gti has 4-2-1, flows better. but if you buy an obx header or raceland header it's 4-2-1 stainless steel. a **** load lighter. and mandrel bent most likely. it has great flow with the nice amount of back pressure you need. if you're not planning to go 16v get the DCOE's or if you're not looking for an insane upgrade get the 32/36. i got the 32/36 since i really wanted good throttle response. digi2 has ****e response and i will be going 16v later on in the next year and i'll drop the monies for the 45dcoe's


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Another update guys!
I got my linkage done, with help from my holmes that has the same style carb on his 3tc(toyota engine)








And I took my head to a machine shop to get it cleaned out, new seals, valves resurfaced and a 3 angle valve job. They told me it'll be done on monday, so i'll post pics then!


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

:thumbup:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Update dudes!
Got the head back from the machine shop 

















So i decided to get work done nao

Plugs








cylinder head with no plugs








with plugs








with plastic POS's bung w/e it's called








They crack, so i'm getting silicone later on in the next few days so i can plug it up








too much torque :laugh:

off-topic, my dog is losing his puppy teeth









will keep you guys updated thanks to my netbook and wifi


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

update pt.2!!!

got the FPR all fitted with fuel lines, just need to source a drill to drill holes on to the bay to mount it.









intake manifold on









valve cover on









carb on 








along with oil breather lol

unfortunately i can't find my gasket that goes between carb and manifold.. >.


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## petergiarrizzo (May 31, 2010)

Looks awesome man, im defs following this to the end! :beer: :thumbup:


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## zachass o2 (May 6, 2009)

props to being different :beer: im watching closely :beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

thanks guys :thumbup:


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## Preen59 (Oct 18, 2008)

Really cool stuff, mate.

Nice work. Will be keeping an eye on this..


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Preen59 said:


> Really cool stuff, mate.
> 
> Nice work. Will be keeping an eye on this..


Thanks man!!! :thumbup:


Gonna post up what I'm doing ignition when I get out of work!


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

You should really get a oil catch can you will have oily parts everywhere if you dont:thumbup:


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

Best intake gasket I ever used

http://www.evolutiontuning.com/evoheatshields18SOHC8V.htm


The newsouth explanation of how power gaskets work.

PowerGasket Plus™ gives you up to 5% more power from your engine by reducing the temperature of the incoming air to your engine. This gives you cooler, denser air for more horsepower and performance from your engine.

The PowerGasket Plus™ is made from a purpose-built high performance composite material. It conducts on average less than 1/500th of the heat of the steel gasket that it replaces. Your intake manifold will stay 30-50° F cooler and your incoming air will stay 20-30° F cooler.

Cooler air, denser air, means more oxygen. Your engine sensors register these changes and will inject more fuel to give you more power. Cooler air also reduces detonation, so you can turn up the boost or advance your engine timing for even more performance gains.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Svedka said:


> You should really get a oil catch can you will have oily parts everywhere if you dont:thumbup:


yeah i figured i should, just gotta look it up!



Svedka said:


> Best intake gasket I ever used
> 
> http://www.evolutiontuning.com/evoheatshields18SOHC8V.htm
> 
> ...


i really want that  sounds pretty sick


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Gettin' work done!!!!

So since I couldn't move forward without getting a gasket from manifold to carb, i decided to make my own. For 5 bucks I get 10" by 5' of felpro gasket material









Since the injector plugs weren't tight, a couple of dudes gave me the idea of hightemp silicone/gasket maker to plug it up good









mounted the manifolds to ze head, and ze head to ze block.








i used the bentley as reference so you closet professional techs can relax and not go bashing.

Tough part came up. damn throttle cable is a cra-pload in length, gotta find a way to route it in a different way so there's tension








HAVE to cut out the ball at the end of the cable









and here's end product. gonna do more work tomorrow in the day time with the sun out. it's starting to dip into the 50's here in FL. And for us that's FREEZING.
Tomorrow will be fuel and ignition....THE PART WE'VE BEEN WAITING FOR ALL ALONG  lol


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## macodola (Jan 31, 2009)

I use that felpro make your own gasket stuff all the time. (I work at a engine machine shop that does a lot of rare stuff) A trick i use a lot is to use a small ball peen hammer and gently tap the gasket along the edges of the holes. Cuts it out perfect! Good luck with your build, i'm doing the same thing but with a stock carb manifold and an adaptor plate i made.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

macodola said:


> I use that felpro make your own gasket stuff all the time. (I work at a engine machine shop that does a lot of rare stuff) A trick i use a lot is to use a small ball peen hammer and gently tap the gasket along the edges of the holes. Cuts it out perfect! Good luck with your build, i'm doing the same thing but with a stock carb manifold and an adaptor plate i made.


I used a lighter to make a sort of crease around the edges, my cutting skills aren't so nice lol. but man, that right there with the hammer and all sounds flipping awesome dude.

thanks man! i'm gonna need it!


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

pre-update! no pictures right now since i got some friends coming soon, but i had the biggest URGE to give you guys an update! So i ran into a few problems.

-Starter wont crank over, gonna need a switch to that to send power to it, tis cool
-No fuel going in(using stock pump) again, it needs to be switched since it's wired up to the ECU
-Ignition is perfect, just want a switch for that as well
-Fans, assuming it, again, ran off the ecu. making a switch for that as well.

so in total i need 4 switches. YAY, i got 50ft 12g wire from lowes for the price of 20ft. My friend in the AE86 works at lowes and knows a guy that knows a guy 

Cool. gonna put the new fuel pump, new fuel lines and bam. hopefully should get it started then. WOOHOO!!!  lol

pictures of linkage and how i set it up at 12am EST lol

if anyone has any suggestible ideas of how i can get my starter to crank over, it will be highly appreciated


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Update!

Got the cable..hmmm how the fvck do i mount it and where?!









Answer=Use the throttle bracket that's on the 1.8manifold and put it on the firewall. There's already a screw sticking out. Self-explantory









Gonna re-wire some stuff on my next day off, timing took me about half a day. I dread the fact of bending a valve the day i start this guy up T_T









Here's a pic of my best friends AE86 that's been helping me out this whole time, the one i've been mentioning throughout the thread










Looking at this pic again, I really need some wheels T_T and to finish off the body work


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

You should make/bend some metal so your pull on the throttle cable is straighter.


Your 8v should be non interference motor.


If u use a #18 relay you should be able to use your fuel pump with key instead of switch.

Fans are not wired through the ecu and can be done without a switch also.

Starter all you need is the red and black wire ran to it.
http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

AE86 is perfect to steal some ITB's from


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

Looks like you need to do a heater core also:wave:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Svedka said:


> You should make/bend some metal so your pull on the throttle cable is straighter.
> 
> 
> Your 8v should be non interference motor.
> ...


Like bend the cable itself?
#18 relay where?
And for the fans? how?
Well i tried to crank over the car, heard nothing at all.



Svedka said:


> AE86 is perfect to steal some ITB's from


a friend of his has the 20v swap on it, sounds SICK


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

Snatcher said:


> Like bend the cable itself?
> #18 relay where?
> And for the fans? how?
> Well i tried to crank over the car, heard nothing at all.
> ...


bend a bracket so the cable itself is straighter.

#18 relay where your original fuel pump relay was so bottom right i believe.

Fans can be wired in using the factory fan power and ground, ground switch run ground from switch to fans run power to fan if blowing reverse switch the power and ground on fans add relay if needed.

Your car will not start without a good ground from the body to the battery and from the motor to the battery 4g is best make sure your starter is pluged in to the correct spot also.:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Svedka said:


> bend a bracket so the cable itself is straighter.
> 
> #18 relay where your original fuel pump relay was so bottom right i believe.
> 
> ...


With the starter issue, i never had a problem with when i was EFI, it was perfect, started almost instantly. So I should get 4g wire and wire it up again?


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## marauder228vw (Jul 2, 2009)

I like what ur doing with minty lol I def want to see what number it puts down, subscribed.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

marauder228vw said:


> I like what ur doing with minty lol I def want to see what number it puts down, subscribed.



hahaha sweeeeeet


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## Schrottplatzer (Jun 13, 2009)

I have the 32/36 DFEV set-up on my German spec Frankengolf. I love it and it hauls. I do get starvation in hard cornering if i don't keep on it. I also got 31mpg doin 110mph for three hours with a passenger and luggage (autobahn)

Keep up the downdraft spirit! It doesn't get the cool points, but is a lot less temperamental and more responsive than the side draft. Perfect carb for a car you're going to drive day to day:beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Schrottplatzer said:


> I have the 32/36 DFEV set-up on my German spec Frankengolf. I love it and it hauls. I do get starvation in hard cornering if i don't keep on it. I also got 31mpg doin 110mph for three hours with a passenger and luggage (autobahn)
> 
> Keep up the downdraft spirit! It doesn't get the cool points, but is a lot less temperamental and more responsive than the side draft. Perfect carb for a car you're going to drive day to day:beer:


noice noice man! exactly the reason why I'm doing it, it's gonna be a daily. might put an adjustable cam gear, a different cam, lightened IMshaft pulley, and many powerful cooling solutions. Just to have a good reliable daily that can eat a few hondas when i'm in the mood for it


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## buffalobill1138 (Nov 17, 2010)

so where do i get the kit i was going to go with side draft but i like this way more


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

buffalobill1138 said:


> so where do i get the kit i was going to go with side draft but i like this way more


http://store.blackforestindustries.com/wesidodr8vca.html

i got it from BFI, awesome dudes, you should tell them my vortex name, hopefully i'll get some free stickers out of it lol

you're gonna have to get the manifold grinded down a bit or do what i did and jump on the manifold so both intake and exhaust mani's fit (i highly recommend you do not do this lol)


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

I feel I need to mention how bad of an idea it is to hard mount the throttle cable to the firewall instead of a bracket on the engine itself. As the engine moves, it will pull on the cable, and the cable will pull your throttle pedal instead of the other way around. It will be slight, but I can only see this going badly. Unintended acceleration much? 

The throttle cable should be a straight pull against the linkage, the Mk1 stuff is possibly a better option as it already is a ball and socket mount.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

from where the linkage is, there's only about 2 inches of empty space before it hits the engine bay. i could tie it against the bay. it has to bend period. the pedal is pretty firm, similar to how i had it when it was efi. it does slip, it keeps its tension all the way to full throttle. I'd love to make another hole on the fire wall, but that's going to go right behind the dash and that's not gonna work, i doubt a cable could fit through there. in the kit, it came with this lever that has a pivot, for the obvious reason. to have the cable be pulled from an angle.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

When you step on it, and the engine rocks forward...be sure to post up your impressions of:

A) the throttle cable pulling out of the pedal
B) the way the car lurches forward on it's own
C) how the insurance company will understand that the car just lurched forward on it's own into the car ahead of it at the light.

etc .

Seriously, get a Rabbit cable, build a bracket that mounts to the intake, clip the cable short, and bolt it into what you've made there at the linkage. I'm not trying to be a dick, but iffy fabrication is iffy fabrication man .


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

B4S said:


> When you step on it, and the engine rocks forward...be sure to post up your impressions of:
> 
> A) the throttle cable pulling out of the pedal
> B) the way the car lurches forward on it's own
> ...



Didn't fabricate a single thing dude, about an inch of cable is inside the linkage so i doubt it's going to slip off.
Intake is too low, and the lever pulls back toward the firewall.
I am telling you this cable has the same feeling as it did before.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

I don't doubt it feels exactly like stock. 

When you hit the loud pedal while under load...do you think the engine stays in one spot? It rocks forward or backward, depending on throttle input. If the throttle cable is hard-anchored to the firewall, it can't flex...leaving the cable inside the sheath to do it. If you have full throttle movement right now, at WOT (with the engine off), what do you think will happen when you're at WOT under load, and the engine rocks forward? It's going to pull harder on the cable, and the pedal. If the cable is at it's maximum throw while sitting, what do you think will happen when it's forced to find another inch's worth of play? One of two things will happen: 1) the hook end will bend and slip out of the pedal, or 2) The throttle plates will be forced to open further than they're supposed to and will jam open.

Seriously dude, I'm only trying to help here. You'll enjoy the carb setup a LOT more if it's built correctly. Carbs can be VERY finicky, and having a less-than-perfect throttle setup will not help at all.

I've offered as much advice as I can, and since it's not my car, I will stop trying to help. I know what it's like to want the easiest way out, to get the car up and running in less time, but if it's important enough to do once...it's important enough to do right.


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## Schrottplatzer (Jun 13, 2009)

I got my kit from Alamo motorsports. good people.

I mounted me throttle off of the intake manifold and reversed the linkage so pulling forward made more throttle.

Do you have an A/F ratio gauge set up or are you just going to read teh spark plugs to figure out your mixture These carbs are waaaaay adjustable. I'm talking 1/16 turn makes a difference. A bit of a hassle but totally worth it.:beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

B4S said:


> I don't doubt it feels exactly like stock.
> 
> When you hit the loud pedal while under load...do you think the engine stays in one spot? It rocks forward or backward, depending on throttle input. If the throttle cable is hard-anchored to the firewall, it can't flex...leaving the cable inside the sheath to do it. If you have full throttle movement right now, at WOT (with the engine off), what do you think will happen when you're at WOT under load, and the engine rocks forward? It's going to pull harder on the cable, and the pedal. If the cable is at it's maximum throw while sitting, what do you think will happen when it's forced to find another inch's worth of play? One of two things will happen: 1) the hook end will bend and slip out of the pedal, or 2) The throttle plates will be forced to open further than they're supposed to and will jam open.
> 
> ...




You got a point dude, I appreciate it you helpin' out. My friend and I got an idea of mounting in on the firewall so the cable pulls right behind it instead of an angle.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Schrottplatzer said:


> I got my kit from Alamo motorsports. good people.
> 
> I mounted me throttle off of the intake manifold and reversed the linkage so pulling forward made more throttle.
> 
> Do you have an A/F ratio gauge set up or are you just going to read teh spark plugs to figure out your mixture These carbs are waaaaay adjustable. I'm talking 1/16 turn makes a difference. A bit of a hassle but totally worth it.:beer:


Do you have pics of the linkage? Hahaha yeah i know, i got a friend with dual 45dcoe's and a tiny bit of a turn makes a huge difference. And about the air/fuel, i'm trying to get the wideband gauge, but it's like 200 bucks. i'll try to adjust it to my liking when i get it started. how do you read it by the spark plugs?


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

B4S said:


> I don't doubt it feels exactly like stock.
> 
> When you hit the loud pedal while under load...do you think the engine stays in one spot? It rocks forward or backward, depending on throttle input. If the throttle cable is hard-anchored to the firewall, it can't flex...leaving the cable inside the sheath to do it. If you have full throttle movement right now, at WOT (with the engine off), what do you think will happen when you're at WOT under load, and the engine rocks forward? It's going to pull harder on the cable, and the pedal. If the cable is at it's maximum throw while sitting, what do you think will happen when it's forced to find another inch's worth of play? One of two things will happen: 1) the hook end will bend and slip out of the pedal, or 2) The throttle plates will be forced to open further than they're supposed to and will jam open.
> 
> ...


In other words I should leave some slack on the cable so when it launches forward it won't lock up?


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Another update! 
1. Adjusting the cable out so i can have more slack, thanks to B4S. Unfortunately I have no means of fabricating (no drills, no saw, no metal, and no weld to use, all i have is solder and a soldering iron)

2. Got my brembo rotors in! 








ordered it from MJMautohaus. Solid rotors, it looks clean since it's brand new  Gonna get new rear drums and pads/shoes once the money comes around, college is in downtown, i don't want to take any risks. Considering the fact that I have no ABS, nor airbags.

Waiting for my direct deposit to hit in so I can go buy some crimps/connectors and switches at walmart, maybe wait till morning to get some from radio shack of advance auto parts. That and my 50FT of 12 gauge wire, I should be good with wiring up everything.


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## Schrottplatzer (Jun 13, 2009)

To read the spark plugs you have to run it for ten minutes or so at temperature; drive it, not just sitting idle. Then pull two plugs or so (to make sure you have a good picture of it) and look at the color. You want the plugs to be a light tan color. Too white and it's running lean, too dark or fouled out you are running too rich. I don't know about the temp changes where you are, but in Germany I have to retune after about every 15 degrees of average day temperature change ie. every season. I'm in Sweden now on vacation, but when I get back to Germany I'll get some pics. I have an auto tranny, so my throttle actually comes up from the tranny. To set up the linkage I reverses the way the arm on the carb swings, and brought the cable from in front of the engine and made a bracket which is bolted to the valve cover.


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## Schrottplatzer (Jun 13, 2009)

you shouldn't need a wide band; I used a $25 gauge from summit and a $25 single wire o2 sensor. It worked ok, but I don't think it was necessary and after a year pulled the system out. Spark plugs seem to be the easiest way to gauge. Start with clean, new plugs--set of four for just $11 right now on ECStuning.com


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

I'm gonna go ahead and do that. thanks dude! how's germany like? i'm planning to go to france, poland, and russia with the woman and her mom to see their family and then going to germany alone to explore the country in the summer


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

Schrottplatzer said:


> you shouldn't need a wide band; I used a $25 gauge from summit and a $25 single wire o2 sensor. It worked ok, but I don't think it was necessary and after a year pulled the system out. Spark plugs seem to be the easiest way to gauge. Start with clean, new plugs--set of four for just $11 right now on ECStuning.com


A narrow band sensor and a gauge will do nothing at all just act like a dancing light I would have took it out also it probably drove you nuts lean rich lean rich ect ect....

As for tuning off spark plugs that's for you to decide the 150-200 on a wideband that datalogs when trying to tune your car is worth every penny IMO.

B4S is 100% correct I didn't even think about the motor flex as I have always mounted my linkage on the motor.

I still am not understanding why you need switches do you not plan on using the factory wiring for the fuel pump, starter, ignition power?


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

A narrow band sensor will reliably tell you if you're running dangerously lean or ridiculously rich which under certain specific circumstances can be very valuable information but generally speaking they're not much help tuning carbs.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

They're useful for their original purpose, providing reasonably accurate information to the ecu for closed-loop operation, but I'd NEVER trust one for tuning WOT conditions. I'd spend a day doing plug cuts before I put my faith in a narrowband sensor again. If you want to tune for decent cruise AFRs, get a voltmeter. If the O2 reads near to 0.45v-0.5v, then you're good for economy.

Thankfully though, it's painfully difficult to blow up a naturally aspirated motor that's designed for low-grade pump gas (like the digi 1.8, lol) if you're lean for a few seconds while tuning.


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Svedka said:


> A narrow band sensor and a gauge will do nothing at all just act like a dancing light I would have took it out also it probably drove you nuts lean rich lean rich ect ect....


It wouldn't dance on a carb setup, the fluctuations in fueling are much less severe than closed loop operation controlled by an ECU. The air coming in controls how much fuel is fed to the motor, to a degree, so it'll either be red, yellow, or green all the time...depending on the ability of the owner to tune it.

As for the switches...well, they're a quick way of getting everything to work. That's my best guess.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

B4S said:


> It wouldn't dance on a carb setup, the fluctuations in fueling are much less severe than closed loop operation controlled by an ECU. The air coming in controls how much fuel is fed to the motor, to a degree, so it'll either be red, yellow, or green all the time...depending on the ability of the owner to tune it.
> 
> As for the switches...well, they're a quick way of getting everything to work. That's my best guess.


I'm getting switches cause of the ease of wiring and switching everything on. In a few weeks or so I'm going to take out all the wires in my car and start putting back the lights and everything that's a necessity. Plus, if someone tries to break into my car, with hidden switches it will take them a longer time to take it away. As everyone knows, if someone really wants to steal car, they will do it regardless of which way they do it. With the lock door scenario, they can still get it, but the lock just adds time against them. 

Gonna go for the AEM UEGO wideband analog gauge, would rather have a needle than rectangular lights going left and right. Plus the rectangle lights look to modern for and 80's car.

Thank you all, I hope you guys have a happy new year.
I will definitely try to make a bracket for the linkage, my ae86 friend told me his friend is a certified welder of some sort.

Cheers! Drink up tonight guys!:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Snatcher said:


> In other words I should leave some slack on the cable so when it launches forward it won't lock up?


I'm not sure if someone answered this directly (although B4S explained above):

Long and short of it is that you absolutely should not mount the cable bracket to the chassis of the car. It needs to be mounted somewhere on the engine - No if's and's or butt's about it... 

Unless you are running 100% solid motor mounts, your engine is going to rock forward and back under acceleration/deceleration, and different throttle positions. You'll notice that the engine rocks when you rev it by hand and the car is not in gear or going anywhere. Now, when you are driving and there is a true load at the wheels, the engine rocks even more. Have you ever driven with the hood off the car? It's surprising how much the engine moves under load...

So, you must have that end of the cable housing mounted to the engine. Trying to band-aid the situation by making slack in the cable isn't actually going to do anything. Routing the cable correctly will save you a lot of headache later.

On a side note: Your local bicycle shop should have a plethora of little cable fittings.


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## lhcVdub (Dec 18, 2007)

subscribed :beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Jettaboy1884 said:


> I'm not sure if someone answered this directly (although B4S explained above):
> 
> Long and short of it is that you absolutely should not mount the cable bracket to the chassis of the car. It needs to be mounted somewhere on the engine - No if's and's or butt's about it...
> 
> ...


I have the bbm front soild mount! Not a 100% I know. It's that I have no idea where mount it so it pulls back. There's like no space. Maybe where the return spring is located? Putting a bracket over that? But how is the cable going to pull from such a sharp angle?


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

update. wiring everything up, about to mount the carb pump, got a headache from the fuel return line, and the catch can line i'm assuming? might need to get some fuel line. wire it up, fuse in between line and bam should be started soon. wiring is fun, making grounds without a drill isn't :/


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Wired everything up, getting full, turning over, but I don't think I'm getting spark, maybe I need to advance my timing? Help please?


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

If you are not getting spark, advancing timing will do no good. You need to determine if you are getting spark and if not, find out why.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> If you are not getting spark, advancing timing will do no good. You need to determine if you are getting spark and if not, find out why.


 take out the spark plug and see if it sparks right? that's how check? 

well i know webers like a different kid of timing i think it prefers retarded timing. I'll check again!


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## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Pull a plug and see if it has spark, or you can hook up a timing light and see if it flash that means it has spark, just like when you set the timing. And I doubt a certain carb want different timing than another carb or injection.


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## buffalobill1138 (Nov 17, 2010)

what is the website for where u bought the carb and intke from


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

ps2375 said:


> Pull a plug and see if it has spark, or you can hook up a timing light and see if it flash that means it has spark, just like when you set the timing. And I doubt a certain carb want different timing than another carb or injection.


 I'm not getting any spark :/ 

i think it's the connection of the coil since the nipple of it is pretty long (haha, srsly now though) 
gonna try it without the icm and stock coil. i'll check it out tomorrow after i get out of work. I go in at 4:30am EST >.< damn starbucks


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

buffalobill1138 said:


> what is the website for where u bought the carb and intke from


 
black forest industries! tell them my vortex name! I want free stickers


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## zachass o2 (May 6, 2009)

do they make these for the 2.slow mkiii????? :beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

zachass o2 said:


> do they make these for the 2.slow mkiii????? :beer:


 i dont think so, i've seen some guys do dual side drafts for it. it just seems more fitting, but it's possible. the downdraft would like kinda weird if you ask me.. get a 16v head, gasket, arp studs, side drafts and go from there  2.slow will be keeping up with vr6's. there's a dude with bike carbs on his 16v, didn't have WOT and had a bad clutch, and got ahead of a vr  lighter engine, 2 cylinders less. a little more money or around the same, and the spirit of being an underdog. DO IT lol. 

just have to source a manifold if you want to do a downdraft


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## zachass o2 (May 6, 2009)

Snatcher said:


> i dont think so, i've seen some guys do dual side drafts for it. it just seems more fitting, but it's possible. the downdraft would like kinda weird if you ask me.. get a 16v head, gasket, arp studs, side drafts and go from there  2.slow will be keeping up with vr6's. there's a dude with bike carbs on his 16v, didn't have WOT and had a bad clutch, and got ahead of a vr  lighter engine, 2 cylinders less. a little more money or around the same, and the spirit of being an underdog. DO IT lol.
> 
> just have to source a manifold if you want to do a downdraft


 i havent looked into the 16v head much, but from what ive heard i thought that the 16v needed a conversion kit to be put onto the 2liter??? :screwy:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

zachass o2 said:


> i havent looked into the 16v head much, but from what ive heard i thought that the 16v needed a conversion kit to be put onto the 2liter??? :screwy:


 you'll need the dizzy gizzy, since the distributor is on the block instead of the cam. the water neck, and other misc stuff. go to bahnbrennermotorsport dot com, hybrid parts. and it's all there. there's a kit for it


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## YJSAABMAN (Jun 28, 2006)

zachass o2 said:


> i havent looked into the 16v head much, but from what ive heard i thought that the 16v needed a conversion kit to be put onto the 2liter??? :screwy:


 You also need to watch your compression ratio putting a 16V head on an ABA block. IIRC they make good turbo engines at around 8.5:1 compression.


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

YJSAABMAN said:


> You also need to watch your compression ratio putting a 16V head on an ABA block. IIRC they make good turbo engines at around 8.5:1 compression.


 IF anyone wants to know about the 16v aba here is some info 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-for-OBD1-16v-aba-2.0-(low-compression-8.5-1)


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

HUGE UPDATE GUYS! WE HAVE COMBUSTION.....on cylinder 3

Found out why i wasn't getting spark. inline fuse was blown. along with all the fuses i bought, POS fuses, F-them MSD works, you can ask my friends as they felt the spark hands on while I was reading the multimeter. Their reaction was PRICELESS.

For some WEIRD reason, the #3 sparkplug wire sends out spark, but 1,2,and 4 don't. Cap and rotor malfunction? Going to get it hopefully in the am if advanced isn't closed for MLK day Could it be the timing on my intermediate shaft as well? I think that may have moved a bit when i was putting on the timing belt, maybe the timing overall? Feed back would be awesome. This is the only thing setting me back from starting the car.

Thanks in advance guys :thumbup:


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## zachass o2 (May 6, 2009)

Svedka said:


> IF anyone wants to know about the 16v aba here is some info
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-for-OBD1-16v-aba-2.0-(low-compression-8.5-1)


that whole thread makes my head hurt....... :banghead:
but upon further investigation ive found out that people have put a 16v head on and used stock 2.slow management and managed to make 111hp so id imagine that if i send the head to be decked alot before i put it on to boost the compression somewhere near 11:1 and get decent engine management it should be a pretty quick na motor :thumbup: but my question is i have a 16v motor at a friends garage that i recently bought and need to know what all i need to take off/swap other than the cylinder head and fueling. i know i seem like a neanderthal but i know vr6's not 4cylinders :beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

zachass o2 said:


> that whole thread makes my head hurt....... :banghead:
> but upon further investigation ive found out that people have put a 16v head on and used stock 2.slow management and managed to make 111hp so id imagine that if i send the head to be decked alot before i put it on to boost the compression somewhere near 11:1 and get decent engine management it should be a pretty quick na motor :thumbup: but my question is i have a 16v motor at a friends garage that i recently bought and need to know what all i need to take off/swap other than the cylinder head and fueling. i know i seem like a neanderthal but i know vr6's not 4cylinders :beer:


agreed, you should send your questions to the 16v thread :thumbup:
you'll get more answers there


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## buffalobill1138 (Nov 17, 2010)

is this possible with an automatic


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## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

Sure, why not. My Rabbit is automatic, and running dual carbs.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

anyone have any input on my ignition issue? :/


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

I know i'm taking up some internet space but i'm so CLOSE lol



So I got the msd wired up ace, getting fuel but i'm only getting spark at where ever the rotor is pointing, I'm guessing this normal since it spins and sends spark toward the right cylinder in time.

I double checked my double checking on my timing on the engine.
My msd isn't switching on through my switch (have the supply volts wired hot at 12v
But can't hear anything, it got to the point where I have to put the actual connector onto the battery to turn on the msd, the sparks are beautiful put that isn't the point.
Tried firing my starter through a button but it doesnt send enough spark to spin it quickly so i started to fire it with a jumper wire from battery positive to starter signal

Now it stops turning over and my batter on the multimeter set at 200V reads 24v and when i switch it to 20v it reads "1 . "

I don't know what's going on? I replaced the rotor and dist. cap but i know that couldn't be the problem (it did turn over after changing it)

Any help? Getting that feeling of just saying I h**e my car but i know i don't just super frustrated.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

anyone?! needs helps


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

My guess is timing if your getting spark from the coil & you have fuel pressure. post pics of your timing marks:beer:


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

A super sad update. :/ gonna have to part out everything in this build. **** hit the fan, gotta move. send offers. :'( one of those nights where you say to yourself "f**K i true-ly hate my life"

make some offers, everything is pretty much brand new. paypal verified


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

along with anything in the mk2 golf gl 1.8 digi2 's recaro trophys in a 6/10 condition. :/ not selling the aero rad support though. god forbid if i get a mk2 with rounds or dual rounds.


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## Svedka (Jul 4, 2008)

Sad to hear but I would assume it would be better to make it run and sell it as is.


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

Svedka said:


> Sad to hear but I would assume it would be better to make it run and sell it as is.


no one nowadays in miami really like old fashion cars in projects. it's either beetles, busses, and type cars and ghia's :/ everyone down here likes whats hot. poop miami :/ but i will still be keeping some stuff like the msd6al and 16v head. still want to do that build


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## lhcVdub (Dec 18, 2007)

Damn brotha!


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

lhcVdub said:


> Damn brotha!


I know man:/ but get this. I will be building an ABF 11:1 CR oversized valves (+.5mm) and so on and so forth

also got the weber carb tunning manual, so that's gonna be keeping me on track this whole time


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## marauder228vw (Jul 2, 2009)

Snatcher said:


> no one nowadays in miami really like old fashion cars in projects. it's either beetles, busses, and type cars and ghia's :/ everyone down here likes whats hot. poop miami :/ but i will still be keeping some stuff like the msd6al and 16v head. still want to do that build


Damn son, if I had a house, I would scoop it up


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## thadscottmoore (Mar 26, 2010)

Im interested in the intake and carb! I have an 88 model cabriolet 8v that I just completely rebuilt and the freaking fuel injection system is driving me nuts!!!!


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## WolfzGangVR6 (Jan 1, 2002)

silvio!!!! i saw you last night and you never told me about you actually doing the carbs!!! i would have came down there to help ya out. i love the the new mk3, however if you showed up in the mk2 carb'd..... drool... you still have that downdraft and manifold???


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## thadscottmoore (Mar 26, 2010)

*fuel port plugs*

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n570/silvioortega/DSCI0059.jpg

where can I get these? I am looking everywhere!


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

thadscottmoore said:


> http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n570/silvioortega/DSCI0059.jpg
> 
> where can I get these? I am looking everywhere!


They look super easy to make, do you know anybody with a lathe?


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

WolfzGangVR6 said:


> silvio!!!! i saw you last night and you never told me about you actually doing the carbs!!! i would have came down there to help ya out. i love the the new mk3, however if you showed up in the mk2 carb'd..... drool... you still have that downdraft and manifold???


yes sir!


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

thadscottmoore said:


> Im interested in the intake and carb! I have an 88 model cabriolet 8v that I just completely rebuilt and the freaking fuel injection system is driving me nuts!!!!


Carbs > FI imo. even though i have no problem with it now lol. i still have everything


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## B166eR - VW (Dec 11, 2003)

This stuff all gone? I was so happy to read through this. Bummed at the end.


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## vwbeaner (Jun 4, 2007)

I read this whole thing. Every page got better and better. Then it all ended really sad and really quick. Good luck man.


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## RAB-817 (Dec 13, 2010)

good thread till the end, sucks when you have to part out hey. hope it all gets better.

One note on that throttle setup, its shocking :O

This is the setup i used, 32/36 DGAV weber with a genuine weber universal linkage kit.

Works brilliant


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## Snatcher (Apr 3, 2009)

update! lolol i have a mk4 in which i truly detest T_T damn 1.8t's same mess pretty much T_T


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## Jason- (Sep 28, 2008)

Sorry to bring the thread back, but it was the closest build to mine I could find.. 

Picture explains itself, but I heard coolant runs through the manifold? I haven't seen it yet, but I've heard it. And it looks like there is a connection as well? Any info would be helpful! 









Thank you!


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## keeton (Aug 16, 2010)

Yes, you can run coolant through the manifold to help with cold running conditions. It's pretty much unnecessary as far as I'm concerned. The electrical connection is for the electric choke. I hope you didn't take that carb out of the box and slap it on and expect it to work well. 


Sent using Tapatalk...sorry if anything's weird.


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## Jason- (Sep 28, 2008)

I know it won't work perfect out of the box, but it should still work. And where do I hook up the electric choke to? 

On the D2 with Tapatalk


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## keeton (Aug 16, 2010)

Battery voltage with the key on. 


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## Jason- (Sep 28, 2008)

Thank you. 

On the D2 with Tapatalk


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## B166eR - VW (Dec 11, 2003)

Just bought a Caddy that had a Weber downdraft on it. 1.6 block..... We may replace the 1.6 with a 1.8 JH and refresh everything. It was owned by an 80+ year old. Not sure how long its been sitting.


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## chrisIY403 (Oct 29, 2008)

Any suggestions on what to use for the electric choke? I know it needs to be key on, I'm finishing up my weber k402 kit today and I have that and the linkage left


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## .Andrew. (Oct 20, 2008)

Where did you get those injector plugs?


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## keeton (Aug 16, 2010)

020 drain plugs, pennies...I JB welded 7/8 freeze plugs in since I don't plan on using injectors again. :laugh:


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## jtablerd (Oct 9, 2004)

I daily the same build, running great for a couple years now.

Of note: the electric choke should be hooked up to thermostatic power, I toasted mine by using key on power... 

Throttle cable comes above valve cover through bracket to front of carb. Freaking awesome throttle response and Imo the sound of the carb sucking air sounds as good or better than boost


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## Norbybmx (Oct 22, 2011)

does any one know of any where i could find a dual weber down draft manifold


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## candm (Apr 27, 2003)

www.blackforestindustries.com still list those manifolds for sale


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## srgtlord (Jun 4, 2010)

He should have left in the electrical harness and just capped off the un-necessary bits. The poor thing would have ran..... Carbs are simple and straightforward, but the lack of simple troubleshooting and jumping the gun buying parts leads to an empty wallet, and another abandoned project....


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## Norbybmx (Oct 22, 2011)

candm said:


> www.blackforestindustries.com still list those manifolds for sale


sorry i ment for a 16 vavle those seem to be uncommon


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## ABA Scirocco (May 30, 2001)

I'm not certain but I suspect the reason you don't see them for 16v's is because of the lack of hood clearance. The angle of the 16v ports together with the tilt of the engine means the ports angle up towards the hood and because the hood slopes down towards the front of the car there may not be enough space under the hood for a down draft carb and filter.


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## Urwrstntmare (Feb 22, 2011)

These are much better quality than BFI. 

http://www.manifolds.co.za/index.php?option=com_zoo&task=category&category_id=4&Itemid=2


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