# Build Thread not necessary



## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Since this build has taken me more than 3 years of planning, buying, and now finally building my motor up, here is a quick picture update and past pictures.









































Stats:
2.9L 8:5:1comp 82mm JE pistons (ceramic coated dome and skirt)
Int Eng rifle drilled rods
ARP Billet Mains
Blueprinted and Balanced Rotating Assembly
Knife-edged, lightened, and balanced crank
Ceramic Coated bearings (main + rod)

Starting to build the head this week. It is an R32 head out of a Toureg(thanks Issam!!)








Port&Polish
TT 264/260 cams
034 motorsports Dual Spring and Titanium Retainers
Revving to 8200rpm on C2 managment









Pag Mani and custom downpipe from arnold in Swain Tech White Lightening Coating









This build will have a Garret GT3582R T4 in precision covers 0.68AR


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## Tiersin (Feb 23, 2010)

Watching.


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## Ld7w_VR (Apr 21, 2006)

Watching this for sure! opcorn:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

In case anyone is curious, we modified an engine frame to mount to the 4 holes on the back side of the block. This allows us to time the motor on the stand and gives a great impression of a floating VR.










This build will be Air to Water cooled. The core is from SiliconeIntakes.com and is actuall very well built.

























I am running an 80mm DBW throttle body out of a Hemi. My intake manifold is an Area 51 SRI that has been modified to fit the TB. I will also be modifying the flange to fit he R head. This SRI was designed for a 2.8L 24v. The differences in the flange is 1 bolt hole. The flange also sits at a different angle off the R head, so I may be looking at modifying the alternaterbracket, etc.








This is the resevoir to the AWIC system. It will sit in the trunk, across from a battery box that matches the skull. I guess I got a thing for skulls. Not to sure why, but that doesn't really matter.
Thanks for looking. i will update as we go along.


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## pDUBc (Dec 26, 2008)

this looks promising:thumbup:


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

You should test out that build i my car before you go ahead and copy it to yours.. just in case...


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

Nice! Those Area51 intakes are rare!! Good thing about them is they have long runners, bad thing is they tent to make cyl 1,2,3 run lean (as the air whooshes to that side). In any case, I have been running mine for 20,000+ miles and love it.


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## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

isn't that turbo kinda small, at least on the exhaust side? I've run custom 3584's on numerous 1.8t and make awesome power with good spool seem like could go bigger


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

This turbo is sized for this build and the FWD limitations. I am looking for full spool between 3500-3800rpm and I should be making power almost to 8000rpm I hope. I have the ability to rev to 8200rpm redline. Like I said turbo is sized to this build. I am planning on ripping the powerplant out of my jetta in the future and build an S4 VRT. The block is built to handle alot more injector than 550cc and a GT35.

Phree-have you experienced cyclinders 1,2,and 3 running a bit lean? Something to keep an eye on. Thanks
I love the runner length on the Area 51 SRI. We may have to modify this piece as the R32 head gets added to the equation. 
Thanks for the comments guys.....will try to keep you updated.


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## hunbrovw (Apr 4, 2010)

going to take awhile for the bump in my jamies to relax. no wonder its taken 3 years, got alot invested research and money wise. definitely following your build. good luck


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> This turbo is sized for this build and the FWD limitations. I am looking for full spool between 3500-3800rpm and I should be making power almost to 8000rpm I hope. I have the ability to rev to 8200rpm redline. Like I said turbo is sized to this build. I am planning on ripping the powerplant out of my jetta in the future and build an S4 VRT. The block is built to handle alot more injector than 550cc and a GT35.
> 
> Phree-have you experienced cyclinders 1,2,and 3 running a bit lean? Something to keep an eye on. Thanks
> I love the runner length on the Area 51 SRI. We may have to modify this piece as the R32 head gets added to the equation.
> Thanks for the comments guys.....will try to keep you updated.



Yes those 3 (pass side) plugs always come out a bit cleaner than the 4,5,6 (driver side) ones., but not hugely, and so far it hasnt been an issue :thumbup:


Also, IMHO a 3582 is a PERFECT turbo for street driving a VR6. Honestly, a GT3582 on a 1.8t would _SUCK_ on the street (sure it may be fast on the track or on the highway) but hey if you ACTUALLY drive it, that's a bit diff. Depending on temperature and what gear I am in (higher gear = engine rpms go up slower = turbo makes more boost at lower rpms as it spins up at roughly the same speed, thats why you need load on a turbo car), but anyways I can be making 10psi by usually 3200-3500 rpm.

If I were to rebuild my setup again from scratch, I would still go with a 3582 (or comparable precision like the 6162 or something) I would not go bigger.

I found out the other day that I can actually rev to 7800 rpm, not 7200 like I thought, and it DOES make power up there (the cams help im sure), and infact, that was the only way I could hang with my buddies 600cc kawasaki, by absolutely _burying _the tach.


HAVE FUN!! :thumbup:


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## jettaglx91 (Jul 27, 2004)

Ok cool I was looking at a new turbo for my 24v project as I didn't wanna use my old generic t4 from my 12v but thought that would be too small 

How does that compare to the t-60 whatevers that most guys seem to run on the r-motors


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Thanks for the comments guys. :beer::beer::beer:
Phree--thats great to hear, your seeing full boost at 3300rpm? We will have to see what a 2.9l bottom end R head can do. Great to hear your making power up that far in the rev range---gives me hope that I can make power up into the 8000+rpm area.
I chose this turbo after seeing the feedback from guys like Phree and MEIK--I started my build way back when MEIK was doing his....it just took me a little longer to finance and find the time.:screwy::banghead:

I was split between this ball bearing turbo or a 60-1 S cover journal bearing turbo that spools very similar to the GT35(2-300rpm sooner with BB). The choice in AR was made easy by Arnold @ Pag Parts(who assemblied this turbo with precision covers-garrett does not make a 0.68ar). Arnold custom made my downpipe with this turbo and his manifold. For a street driven VR, Arnold suggested this turbo, and so far he has been right on with advice and shiny new parts. 
In the next two weeks, the head should be back at the machine shop for a third time, then its valve lappin time and my bottom end meets its new head.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

more to come....


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## give_it_to_dem (Jan 28, 2005)

opcorn:


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## xxKurt85xx (Jun 8, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup:opcorn:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Today's progress:


















Bottom end is timed. Cams are installed but not tourqued down.









Turbo mocked up....
More to come tommorrow.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

About time! 
almost ready for our oil pan?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

No, I couldn't make it work. Sorry Buddy! The cash just isn't in the budget for anything else at the moment. Now the idea is to get the car on the road and see what we have. For now, the stock oil pan with a welded fitting will be the method to our madness. After we have the motor timed, I will hang some oil lines on go from there. 

More updates to come tommorrow.


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## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

Awesome engine pron! I will def be following this!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Got some more work in today. The motor is timed, and the rear main seal and cover are on permanently. I am missing a gasket and two o rings for the vvt phase actuators-where they exit the timing cover. 























































Thats all for now. Look for injector and fuel rail install soon. I am running an R32 fuel rail modified for -6an ss braided hose and powdercoated gold.

Thanks for looking. Comments welcome!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Got a little work done tonight. No pics right now, but a friend was out with his nikon, so we should be treated to non-iphone pics.
The flywheel has been mounted with ARP PRO bolts. This is a 15lb steel unit machined by Southbend to match their full face, single disc clutch and pressure plate. I will be happy to get 30k miles out of this disc. Thats with more than a little luck. I am waiting on two o-rings and a gasket for the upper timing chain cover. The intake manifold has been modifyed to fit the R head, and the alternator bracket clears everything with ease. I am excited to get the motor buttoned up and ready for install.


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Awesome build :thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Goin to do more man work in a little bit. Got my gasket and orings for the upper timing chain cover. Want to mount the cover permanently and get my fuel rail and injectors in.
Next mock up oil and coolant lines for turbo. Has anyone tapped the block for coolant?
Oil drain will be welded into oil pan n painted.
More pics to come later.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

I'm so jealous.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Alright folks.....we have a complete, timed rotating assembly. The valve and timing covers are all tourqued down and good to go. The flywheel and clutch assembly is torqued and ready to roll. I will be chasing threads and mounting thermostats tommorrow. I believe we will also be trying to finalize the intake manifold. The stock bolts of the intake mani had to be cut down. Fuel rail and injectors yet to come. Almost time to lay in the wiring harness and start the process....... 
Thanks for checkin in More to come!!!

:beer::beer:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Can't find my crank sensor, but everything else is moving along nicely. Next weekend i hope to move forward with the wiring harness. 
Thanks for taking a look.


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## turboginster97 (Oct 13, 2010)

opcorn: deff watching im doing a n/a build with an r32 head on a 2.8 bottom end:thumbup:


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

watching...still trying to decide to build a frank motor or an r32 motor for my corrado, guess ill wait and see your numbers first.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

I will be limited to what the injectors allow. I am running 550cc injectors with a custom C2 tune. We will see what this head allows. Stock 24v needs 20psi to breach 400whp.
I am hoping this head plus cams nets somewhere around 15psi to breach that 400whp barrier. Thats the idea anyway.


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

i would be running full standalone. IMHO thats the only way to run any turbo motor. tune specifically to that exact car. no 2 cars are the same, therefore i think that a chip is just a barrier to the potential HP you can make


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> Stock 24v needs 20psi to breach 400whp.
> I am hoping this head plus cams nets somewhere around 15psi to breach that 400whp barrier. Thats the idea anyway.


Where'd you get this idea from? If that's the case.. my 2.8L 24v with just a head spacer and head studs must be a freak, along with everyone else that makes 500whp fairly easily on pump gas @ around 20psi. 

What I'm trying to say is, a c2/UM 550cc file @ 4bar is closer to 630cc, anddd with the R32 head, you'd be making more power since the head flows better. Somewhere closer to [email protected] psi. A chip-tune on these cars isn't bad at all, and tons of guys on here drive their turbo 24v's fairly often, if not daily, with nothing but good things to say. Passes inspection, drives like stock under boost, cold start, cruise control, everything. Doing that with standalone/piggyback is much harder. Just my two cents though.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

I agree with brian:beer: *↑*


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

This is a chip build due to NJ emissions requirement. If any of the standalone systems out there allowed me to pass OBD2 emissions, then I would be into it. The chip is as custom as it can get. This is not a generic shelf tune, but a file created specifically for this motor and this build. 

As for the 400whp @ 20psi, I was not quoting exact figures, and was not talking about your car specifically. It was an estimate that I came up with looking at some of the 24v turbo builds that have come up on here in the past few years. Please post a dyno graph showing over 500hp at the wheels at only 20psi please. Would love to see what kind of freak your car must be.

Relax guys....lets not get so emotional this early in the week.:wave::wave:


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

462whp/435wtq @ 19psi on my old modified EIP stg2 kit, turbonetics t04b turbo, 3" downpipe, uni 630cc file.

don't have a dyno sheet for my new setup on the same dyno.

not getting emotional, just saying you're underestimating your goals, the R head was overkill if anything if all you wanted was 400-450whp on pump, 12v guys make 500whp on pump gas fairly reliably on HG spacer motors, with a crappy flowing head.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Those are great numbers at 19psi. What is your comp ratio with the spacer? I was not doubting your numbers or your beast. Like i said, my example was an estimate of what i have seen. It also is an example of why some of us want to play with the R head.
My goals for this build is to max out injectors. The only question is at what power level.
My entire motor is overbuilt for the fwd chassis anyway. The bottom end and R head are built for 6-800awhp in an S4 chassis down the road. The true benefit to this head is efficiency--same power levels at lower boost.
Thanks for the comments--keep 'em comin...


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## One Gray GLI (Apr 2, 2007)

at those power goals on our cars(mk4, not the a4/s4 platform) the problem is that you'll shear the teeth off the gears, especially 4th, due to the torque. of course, the FWD platform has more give in it(the tires spinning = not as much stress, obviously because the power isn't completely getting to the ground)

that was 9:1 if i recall correctly though. but yeah, as I said, not trying to be negative at all, I'm just saying you should look forward to more power than you expect, especially with the R head.

watching though. :beer:


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## turboginster97 (Oct 13, 2010)

im doing a n/a build with a 3.2 head on a 2.8 block which head gasket did you use i know that the releses are good enough in the pistons for the 3.2 head i also heard its very closes any info would be awesome


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

I used a 2.8l 24v headgasket. I was told this gasket is good up to an 83mm bore. I punched mine out to 82mm ~ 2.9l 8:5:1comp ratio JE pistons. I did not clay the motor, but the only thing i would worry about in keeping a stock bore with R head is possible valve shrouding.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Just a couple pics from today:



























Fuel rail and injectors are in. We are begining to thin the harness and extend some things. All sensors have been installed, and the motor is good to go.
More to come tommorrow


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Wiring can be fun......


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

More wiring......


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Hope you hide the wiring (like making it long enough to tuck it all). It's looking sick! But a bunch of wires everywhere could take away from that.. Either way this build is awesomely sick.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

We extended the coil wires by about 4 inchs, and will be replacing some of the plastic that held the loom with some aluminum rail....the wire harness is going to be as hidden in plain sight and clean as we can make it. Very mundane but important touches.....
More to come...


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Wiring is complete. The harness is hidden "in plain sight". The coil pack wires have been lengthened to sit the wires in a channel.













































Got my R wheel in and i reinstalled my leathers with the heated seat harness installed. First time seats have been in the car in almost two years. Got some work to do to clean up accessories, alternator, etc....then its time to get my ride off jackstands and back on its wheels.
here is a bad pic of my trunk set-up with the awic pump n resevoir.


















Thanks for lookin


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Gettin syc'd for some weekend work.

Gonna have the completed wire loom completely secured n buttoned up on the block. The alternator is being cleaned up now n that should be installed tommorrow. The interior has to be completed and we will be fitting Focal Polyglass 2-way coaxials in the doors matched to a kenwood 5 channel excelon xr-5s. Gotta space the doors out n still fit monster magnets behind the door panel. 

Hoping to get my chasis off jackstands for the first time in 21 months, and back on wheels. Then its engine swappin tree time......


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Holy ****! What caused that??


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

That is a 1.8t piston that was running total seal rings and was beaten to death in 20k HARD miles on a GT30.
Ring failure plus 9500+rpm almost daily beatings.


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## 3lfk1ng (Apr 10, 2008)

opcorn:


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## 24Vjrod1.8T (Dec 24, 2009)

opcorn:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Got a ton of work to do on the chasis this weekend. Brake lines, rear suspension, brakes, swaybars, etc...
Gonna get this beast off jackstands and rolling on its own wheels for first time in 21 months.

Interior is getting there--all seats, trim, speakers, n steering wheel installed.
The motor is wired and we can start looking at some basic plumbing before dropping the drivetrain into the car in two weeks.

More to come…


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Working on the chassis. Rear suspension and sway is in. Rear brakes are also just about complete. Hope you can see some of the powdercoated pieces. Went with an interesting gold on brake calipers and both sways.
Car is running Billstein PSS 9 coilovers, neuspeed front/rear sways, and OEM Audi TT/VW GLI calipers/carriers.
This car was originally a base model 2.0 5 spd car, and the brake upgrades were originally installed 100k+ ago. The PSS 9's have maybe 3k miles on them. Everything is being refreshed and looks good. We plan to corner balance the car/suspension when all is said and done.
Enjoy……





































Motor goes in next weekend. Working on front brakes, suspension, subframe, etc. tommorrow.

Lots more to come…


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

This thing is going to be beast.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Couple questions for you guys.....i need a new dipstick, and want to use a universal braided dipstick, but need to know the size of the dipstick hole in the block. Anyone have ideas or used something like this on our 2.8l or 3.2l blocks?
Also, i need hardware for the two ports on my Area 51 intake mani. Phree is trying to get some sizes for fittings for me, but if anyone has ideas or stats, please post up. I am also looking for diagrahms of vacuum line routing. Feel free to post up suggestions, pics, etc...

I also need advice for front brake pads. I had purchased EBC red pads for front n rear, but the front pads are missing. I will probably pick up a set locally from NAPA or autozone. Anyone have suggestions? EBC reds are on the rears. Rotors are slotted n drilled. This is a street car, with limited track time in the future.

Thanks guys.....trying to get prepped for a big weekend.


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

I looked and dont have any detailed pics of those ports.

I have Hawk HPS pads all round, they arent bad. I have liked em so far.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Well there seems to be a debate on what size those ports are on the Area 51 manifold. The build thread of the mani documents they are -6 an o-ring thread; However, when i contacted the retail side of the opperation(now BSH) i was told they are 1/8' NPT.
Guess i will find out Saturday. If anyone has vacuum routing diaghrams or pics, please post up...


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

I think the originals had the -6, the company that ripped em off and started making them may have -8's. But I am not sure.


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## turboginster97 (Oct 13, 2010)

what head studs did you use .:R or 2.8?


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## Eddie2170 (Sep 30, 2009)

turboginster97 said:


> what head studs did you use .:R or 2.8?


i believe you use the 2.8 studs with the 3.2 head iirc,

if im wrong im sure someone (OP, PhReE, or Dr. Brown) will chime in


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

I used a set of custom ARP headstuds that were made by INA/Issam specificly for a 2.8l bottom end with an R32 head. These studs are most similar to the 2.8l studs with extra length added to make up for the differences in head design(3.2l head vs 2.8l head). 

I have an extra set of headstuds if anyone needs them for another R head build.

Phree, it looks as though i have one of the original 10-20 intake manifolds completed during the "Sheet metal intake build thread. We got -6an o-ring bungs on this puppy.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Confirmed...-6 an o-ring fittings on the Area 51 intake manifold.

Its hot out today...working on some little touches on the motor, and begining to play with front end.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Got some questions for the 24valve community. Does anyone have pictures of those folks who have tapped and threaded -an fittings onto our stock thermostat housings? I also have the Integrated Engineering pieces that come off the heater hose fittings, and would like to change some of my coolant lines from OEM rubber to some -an black braided nylon hoses and fittings. I want to do this in one specific order from Summit, without the headache of sending back incorrect parts.
The IE billet heater core fittings can be seen here:
http://www.intengineering.com/Billet-Aluminum-Heater-p8914935-1-2.html
These pieces have a threaded O-ring port on it, so you can run -an fittings. I am not sure the size of the -an fitting yet. Help me design my coolant pipe routing and order my hose and hose ends correctly.

Thanks guys


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

OK....to answer my own questions, and for those that want the AN lines in your bay rather than OEM rubber.....The IE heater core fittings can fit -10AN o ring fittings that can be had at summit, jegs, etc. In addition, the IE SAI block off plate can be made to fit AN by using a 3/8' NPT to -10AN fitting so I will be plumbing -10AN line all around the bay. I am still trying to find the thread that shows what size AN/thread can be fit into our thermostat housings. I am pretty sure I have seen folks just tap the plastic and thread AN fittings directly to the plastic. There is also Rictus' build, where silicone is being used to bridge the plastic to what looks like -10AN weldable fittings. Not sure which route to take for my build, but will be working on it as we go. 

For now, I have a large order from Summit ordered that will have all my fittings and hose described above. Now I just gotta find the time to get all these shiny parts home.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Ok....seriously...who can give me an educated guess here...i have a mishimoto rad i want to weld AN fittings to. Can anyone out there, with knowledge of what works, please post up. What size are the normal OEM rubber hoses from radiator to T-stat housing? Whats the equation from inch or mm to AN?
Beers are on me!?! 
Let's get er' done


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

If you can't tell...i am trying to plan my coolant system and how it effects the turbo lines, t-stat housing, etc.

I am curious if C2/UM or the Uni software still makes use of our secondary coolant pump. My plan is to plumb that coolant pump into the heater core and out to the turbo.
You turbo guys with cars running, does your coolant pump run after the car shuts off like stock? I will be calling C2 monday to make sure of things...

Anyone know the flow or direction of coolant in our motors? 
Please post up experiences, ideas , etc...

Started to tap the t-stat housing today for NPT to AN adapters. Work continues tommorrow...thanks for looking


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

How have folks deleted their overflow tanks in the past? Can anyone post up pics of swoops' bay with some items deleted?
Any input is welcome here...


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

For the bottle, I believe people put a filler neck on the top radiator hose. The rest of your questions.. sorry, have never ventured that far. Can't wait to see this thing done.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Worked to finalize lines on the motor this past weekend. The coolant system will be all AN lines, with NPT to AN fittings supplying coolant for turbo. One more bulk order of Earl's and i am home free.

Plumbed front brake lines also, and hope to get the front suspension complete this coming weekend.

I hope to drop the motor in very soon.
Thanks for looking.


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> If you can't tell...i am trying to plan my coolant system and how it effects the turbo lines, t-stat housing, etc.
> 
> I am curious if C2/UM or the Uni software still makes use of our secondary coolant pump. My plan is to plumb that coolant pump into the heater core and out to the turbo.
> You turbo guys with cars running, does your coolant pump run after the car shuts off like stock? I will be calling C2 monday to make sure of things...
> ...


 My car has Uni and the after-run pump does function like stock.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Thank you, Phree
I talked to C2 today, and the secondary pump functions OEM-style.
I will be plumbing this into the coolant system with the idea of making use of this function as a form of turbo timer.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

WARNING.....To anyone who wants or "needs" to go all out and replace your factory OEM rubber with those sexy braided stainless steel or black nylon for that bling factor....Think before you leap. 

I just finished my biggest order yet for these Earl's fittings. I am using all Earl's fittings and hoses, and just got beat up by Summit....this was with a "friend" and frequent purchaisng discount. Oh boy...:screwy::screwy::screwy::screwy: 

If you have an extra thousand, then by all means follow suit. I will even PM you the NPT to AN adapters needed for every orafice in your engine bay. What was I thinking?? 
At least these are all rebuildable lines that should not give me issues down the road. We will see what we get.


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Sounds like it's going to look & function great though! Great build, I admire your patience :thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

It has been a test of patience to get to this point. I am hoping we are rounding the corner on everything, and it should start to come together quickly in the next couple weeks. 

In my large order, I found a coolant filler neck that allows me to plumb my AN lines right on through. This billet piece will be plumbed on the top coolant line from the top of the radiator to the biggest port on the t-stat. I also ordered a billet piece from Gruven, to hold the auxilary coolant pump. Does anyone have any pictures of where their aux pump resides in the OEM area? Gruven only has a pic of the 12v AAA. I am going to plumb my turbo coolant lines from the crack pipe and the port on the front of the block. The crack pipe is a billet piece I bought when I originally swapped my 24v in. I removed the barbed fitting and will be installing 1/4NPT to -6AN adapter. The block will have the OEM hose end pulled out, and we will tap the block to 1/4NPT to use the same adapter piece. The majority of my plumbing is Earl's braided nylon hose. Turbo lines will be braided ss. 
Should be a pretty, yet extremely functional bay. 
Thanks for the support guys!!


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

I think this is what you need. It's in the rubber isolators to the left of the heat exchanger: 










(Not my car, & the crack pipe is on backwards in this pic)


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Some rather large plumbing fittings here...-16AN inline filler neck, a bigger adapter necking things up to 
-20AN for the t-stat housing, and some -16AN to 3/4NPT fitting for the t-stat housing.

Still waitin for more......


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

Definitely interested in seeing how you modify the cooling system to accept AN instead of OEM rubber. I'd love to do this in the future if I could to my VRT :beer:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

We are adapting to the AN lines by tapping the inside of the plastic t-stat housing and threading in NPT to AN fittings. The radiator was adapted with weldable AN fittings. It is a pricey change over, but should supply years of worry-free and leak-free use. Plus all hoses and fittings are rebuildable if we do see any leaks or melt a hose.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

This is a billet coolant filler neck for the top hose coming off the radiator. This top hose comes off the rad at -16AN where it connects to this filler piece. From there is goes up to -20AN thanks to the blue fitting. It is -20AN hose to the biggest port on the t-stat housing...tapped for -20AN to 1 1/4NPT adapter fitting. Its complicated and expense doubles as the size increases. Its a small fortune after an already pricey build...but i felt this build deserved the personal touch.

Here is some of my intake plumbing...gotta love AWIC....i have maybe 3 feet total in plumbing. I will be running 2.5" piping off the turbo to the intercooler..coming out of the intercooler is straight 3" piping to my 80mm TB. The intercooler will be mounted in the OEM battery location. Only thing to figure out is where to plumb my Godzilla DV...that puppy is huge.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Why only 2.5" in?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

2.5" is the size of the turbo outlet on my T4 GT3582R turbo...looking back at some of Foffa's threads, he gave us the equations to calculate adequate piping size for horsepower goals. 2.5" off turbo with 3" coming out of a 1000hp intercooler core is adequate for expansion of the cooled dense air mass post-ic, and it matches up almost perfectly to the 80mm Hemi Throttle Body with 3.25 to 3" silicone reducer....no need for anything bigger pre-intercooler with the size of this turbo. Unlike Rictus, i will have a couple pieces of silicone in the bay here and there.
When this motor is dropped in an S4 in a couple years with a GT40/42, then we will see what 8-900 whp requires for piping. However, for my build, and my hp goals, 2.5" to 3" is more than adequate.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Just seems like a restriction that won't yield any benefit.. Why not just go 3" in 3" out (at the IC)? I guess it may not be necessary but it won't hurt..


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Really no need to...its not a restriction at all...2.5" pipe can flow more than enough pre-intercooler...and post-intercooler it necks up to the size TB.

For those interested in the t-stat housing...


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Worked on front subframe, front sway bar, and steering rack. Also finished some of the fittings on the t-stat housing. Got to save a couple hundred bucks in fittings and hose by staying with
-16AN hose from biggest port on t-stat housing.


















Tommorrow we finish front brakes and tighten all lines. Moving right along.......


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Bleeding brakes and all lines....motor goes in next weekend.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

:beer:

Can't wait to see it finally together!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Very excited here as well.....if we can get her running before August, then the build took a month shy of two years....

Its such a great feeling to see parts, purchased or powdercoated a year and a half ago and put on a shelf, finally be bolted onto the car. We still have a ton of work to do, but the finish line is in sight.
Thanks for following the build and supporting the work being done. This is a backyard build being done by a professional mechanic and an inept owner--just the two of us, every weekend for the past 7 months or so...Our time and tools are limited, but we are doing work.

Thanks for the well wishes....here is to hoping my motor will be in my bay this time next week.


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

May I ask where one can get that gold bar that's tying together the mount points on your subframe?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

That gold bar is the front sway...it is a Neuspeed 25mm front sway bar kit that i've had on the car for years. I had it powdercoated with the brake calipers and rear sway....also got new mounting hardware from MJM autohaus to refresh bushings, links, etc...


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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

Oh wow, my eyes were messing with me last night  I didn't even notice it was the FSB :banghead:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yup...thats the sway....its just powdercoated gold cause i had to much time on my hands during the past two years. I will also be running a powdercoated Neuspeed lower tie bar...just to stiffen the subframe up a bit more. This is similar to some of the OEM audi TT subframe connectors and does the same job. Anything to tighten up that subframe and help put power down to the ground.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Gearing up for a big weekend. The car will be on the ground, with all brake lines and fuel lines cleared and buttoned up. Depending on weather and amount accomplished, the motor may be put in next weekend, to leave room for finalization of turbo and coolant lines. We are doin' work.
I'll keep y'all updated.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Looks like you'll be able to have some "first start" videos up, maybe even some street pulls (hint).. by the end of July. Awesome project man.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yea....thats the idea. First start-up and break-in before end of July. I am off the entire month of August before my internship in September. I will be putting serious mileage on my rig during this time. 
I will certainly keep you guys updated. Still got a ton of work to go, but this is the rewarding part of getting new parts on to the car.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

This is a seriously intense build. I can't help but be jealous of what the end result is going to be, lol. But man, you've really earned all the joy this monster of a car will bring you. 

I do have a quick question though... What are you doing about the trans? I can't remember. Did you get an LSD?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yup...stock 02M with Peloquin installed. Clutch is a Southbend stage 5+ with custom steel flywheel. Hoping this set-up will hold the 500+ wheel tourque spike.
Peloquin was installed by Josh at Nothing Leaves Stock way back when we did the initial 24valve swap. When we decided to build the motor, the trans went back to Josh for a check-up. He replaced all seals, as well as synchros on 2nd and 3rd due to some slight marks on the brass from grindings. Drivetrain is completed with Vf mounts and DSS axles.
Thanks for the kind words...i will be giving free rides anytime during the month of August.....


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Make a trip down here to North Texas. You'd be the center of any monthly DFWeuros meet. Ha ha. Just bring a "build thread" photo album to show of the goodies that can't be seen. (Well, mainly, I'd be able to take you up on that ride, ha ha)

Those DSS axles are expensive as hell. Haven't seen them on a 24v before, but USP (close to where I used to live) use them on their 10 sec 12v Jetta, so I'd put my trust there. I bet the trans gives out before the axles/clutch will, though. More than likely you'll only be breaking traction, ha ha. But that would be the perfect excuse to drop it into an AWD platform sooner.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Atlantic City, NJ to North Texas would be quite the trip. I will probably be heading north to Vermont and Maine to see my brother return from Anchorage, AK in Mid-August. Either way...i will break this motor in locally for 3-500miles before contemplating highway miles. Break-in will be done violently, just as she will be driven.

The axles i have are DSS stage 2.9 that i bought at least 3 yrs ago or so. I managed to bust up both side's cv joints at stock power levels; with DSS nice enough to honor a warranty. I see the drag guys using even pricier stage 5.somethings these days....$$$$ i don't have and wont really have for this chasis. In Fall 2012, when i start getting paid again, i am going shopping for an S4 as the next chasis for this motor. This GT35 will do for now, but i have ideas on a billet wheel'd GT40/42R and alot more power to the ground awd-styles.
I'm hoping i can keep these puppies in one piece, but i have some extra oem axles lying around just in case DSS needs to rebuild my joints again. I wish they would take these back in partial payment towards those big boy axles.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Car is on the ground. Brakes are bled, after numerous headaches with the powdercoat. Warning to anyone looking to powdercoat your stock calipers....tape it all up yourself, and only coat areas that people will see. My coater must have went nuts and put ten coats on my calipers. The brake lines must have been on and off the calipers twenty times each. Extra headaches, but here is to hoping it works out.
































































Next weekend we finalize turbo coolant lines. The plan is to drill an extra block i have to make sure we can tap for a coolant line right by the turbo. Plan is to feed from the crack pipe around block to turbo and back to the backside of the block. The matching bosses are on the backside of the block below the turbo, so this should be relatively simple. Lets see what the powdercoated block has to say about this. Then we can concentrate on mating the trans and motor, in an effort to get the drivetrain in my chasis. Moving right along!!
Lots more to come...


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Car looks great! Do you mind if I ask how much NLS charged to rebuild the trans?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

I believe i paid between $3-400 for a basic rebuild...including replacing 2nd and 3rd gear synchros. This was over a year ago, and was completely unneccessary. I was having nightmares of blowing up my trans right after we decided to build the block.
Give Josh a call for up-to-date pricing. I only have great things to say about NLS.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Can't remember if you covered this or not.. but who are you going with for tuning?

I'll be throwing a set of 272 cams in my car in the next few weeks, and was wanting to head the UM route.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Currently, my OEM ecu has custom C2 software, matched to 550cc injectors on the R fuel rail. 
C2 has been fantastic to work with, and my personal opinion is their customer service has been one of the best experiences of the entire parts purchasing journey. To date, my ecu has been sent back to Chris @ C2 on four seperate occassions, including initial purchase. Chris even emailed me periodically of upgrades his new tuner has made to their R32 turbo software. 
Originally, i had purchased 440cc injectors with my original software. C2 was able to purchase my injectors for the price of software change and got me the current 550cc injectors with needed pigtail harnesses. Great company to deal with, and i will have more great things to say after start-up.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Just to add, my software is based on the R32 turbo software, C2 has available. This is due to the R head and fuel rail. This software is loaded on a 2.8l 24valve ecu. The ecu is set to match the 80mm TB, TT 264/260 cams, 2.9l bottom end, 8:5:1 JE pistons, 550cc injector, with 8200rpm redline.
I plan on saying in touch with Chris, and maybe improving on the tune in the future.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

VIDEO!!! I want to hear that 8200 rpm so bad haha!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Oh, me too!!! Gt3582r T4 at 8000rpm must sound like a jet engine. I can't wait to break her in. I am hoping for DD reliability with the power levels of most high-end p-cars. Gonna try to suprise a few folks in August, but for now we still got a bunch of work left.

I know some folks look at this build and wonder why i would not choose some standalone (i.e. Lugtronics); however for me and this chasis, i need to be able to pass NJ state inspections/emissions without issue. I look forward to trying to max out the OEM maf, ecu, etc. Before switching the block to an S4 chasis in a couple years, i would like to upgrade to the Pro-maf set-up with 980cc injectors or something equally sadistic. In the future, i also want to purchase a billet wheel'd GT 40/42 that fits within the T4 frame already in place. That is down-the-road dreams. For now, we can concentrate on what this GT35 can do. 
Thanks for the kind words and comments. Keep 'em coming.
More to come!?!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

So....took the VF mounts apart to clean up the hardware and found the inner bushings to be toasted.










So who knows how much replacement bushings for the VF engine and transmission mounts cost? Anyone know a supplier i can contact to grab these before next weekend?
I have brand new 034 motorsports Track Density mounts that i am choosing not to use(other than the dogbone mount) after reading through the "034 mounts" thread.
Please help


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

VF supply the spare parts IIRC...


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yup...just got off the phone with them replacement bushings for both engine and trans mounts are only $40 + shipping. I think that is cheaper than replacing the VF dogbone mount-which doesnt last more than 15k miles. Wish i had the $$ for the DLI-Technique mounts, but refreshed VF should do the job.


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> I think that is cheaper than replacing the VF dogbone mount-which doesnt last more than 15k miles.


Is only 15k miles your experience? I thought others had gotten good life out of them (but still, like the engine mounts, needed replacement at some point) ?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

I only got 15k out of the VF dogbone mounts bushings. At just over 15,000 miles after swapping the 24valve + O2M i got some harsh front-back banging and movement from dogbone mount. All hardware was in perfect working order but the furthest poly bushing was destroyed and the middle poly was badly mangled, with not much life left at all. I contacted VF back then, and was able to purchase the replacement dogbone bushings for $50 + or -. When we removed the stock block for this build, at 30-35k miles, the dogbone bushings were toast once again. The engine and trans mounts appeared just fine, but once taken apart, you can see the damage in the pic above. I truly loved the ride with the VF mounts, and will be using them now--refreshed--on this turbo monster.
Let me add that VF was/is great to deal with, and was happy to get me new bushings with minimal cost/hassle.


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## jmh2002 (Jun 28, 2007)

Thanks for the info :thumbup: Ive got a DLI Teknik and VF dogbone combo waiting to be installed so Im looking forward to the results


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

I have read good things about the DLI mounts. I would love to try them down the road. I now know where mileage plays a factor on wear with the VF mounts, as well as what areas to check for splits, cracks, and deformation. We will see how turbo tourque effects what i have seen from the stock mileage i have done. If DLI was stateside and a little cheaper, i would love to grab a set. I am gonna try the 034 track density dogbone mount, and try to sell the 034 engine and trans mount. Thanks for posting up. Stay tuned for more work.
Tommorrow we will be looking to drill the back side of my powdercoated block to tap for coolant to my turbo. Anyone have experience in tapping a VR block on the backside, to the lower right of the turbo? The other turbo coolant port will be plumbed from the "crack pipe", around the block and trans in braided stainless.
I will post pictures of the area we will tap tommorrow.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Motor goes in next weekend!!;:thumbup:


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

About time! Ha ha.

Looks awesome man. When do you think the interior will be buttoned up and the car ready for a wash? Do you plan on keeping a full stock interior?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

The interior is actually pretty close to being buttoned up. All seats are in, my harness set-up is installed, all door panels and Focal speakers have been installed. The headunit can be plugged in and and operational in minutes. The amp will be mounted in the trunk in the stock monsoon location. There is some final wiring that needs to be completed in the interior, but that can all happen after the motor is in its new home. The battery needs to be final mounted in the trunk so we can finalize the electrical system. I swore I would not wash the car until after we break in the motor. I am thinking I will even leave my rusty winter steelies on for break-in; although the "rusty-hood" crowd would love to see the jetta in its current form with my 17 inch BBS RS on there. We will see what comes of it.
The big pieces of the puzzle will be mounting the intercooler to the frame rail somehow. Everything else will come together around that. I also have to figure out where the "Godzilla" DV is gonna go. It is a biiiig boy. I will use the nice camera again this coming weekend to show how we use the "engine-swapping" tree. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Motor and trans are out of the shed and mated together. All turbo lines are installed and tight. Tommorrow the chasis meets its drivetrain, and the real fun starts. More to come...


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

Woot! Can't wait for videos! Did you build the head at all for high rev? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Read the thread, Boss. It is an R32/Toureg head that has a port & polish, 5 angle valve job on stock valves, titanium retainers with dual valve springs from 034, and TT 264/260 cams. This motor will rev to 8200rpm and we are expecting to make power up there.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Gunna sound amazing. Ccan't wait to hear it scream.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Nice! Not a lot of room to spare in there from the looks of it, tight fit.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Dogbone mount is not installed. Motor should sit a bit more upright once the third mount is in. Downpipe fits perfectly. I need to get hardware to mount up that wastegate flange to downpipe recirc. Now for all the hard parts. Gotta fit 4' turbo inlet plus the the intercooler. I have better pics of the bay to post up later.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Just a few pics from the weekend's work on a better quality camera. Hope you enjoy!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Where do we go from here...
Tommorrow, we start looking to power the car up with the battery in the trunk. I also have my v banded cat and ss overaxle 3" to a flowmaster. The difficult part will be fabing up brackets to mount the intercooler and fabbing a 4" inlet all fitting on the driver side. That should be fun.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

bring the good camera! 

Its finally looking like a whole car again!


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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

a tree as an engine lift LMAO love it! :thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yea, that is the engine swapping tree. We have used that tree so many times that it has a pulley strap permanently grown into the trunk. Add the chain pulley system and it makes doing man-work a little easier. We bolt the trans to the block, suspend it from the tree, and actually push the car into its new drivetrain.
Today, we helicoil'd the trans mount bracket and successfully bled the clutch/slave system. I have a working clutch pedal. Tommorrow we should have all three engine mounts in. I went with VF engine and trans mounts, with a 034 track density dogbone mount. We will also start hanging the stainless exhaust components. C2 supplied the 3" mandrel bent over-axle piece. I have a high flow mettalic substrate cat with v bands, and i will have a post-cat o2 sensor. We will try to work from the bottom up during the next few weekends. Hoping to have her running by mid-August. Can't wait to start hanging the remaining AN/coolant hoses and finish off that engine bay.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Can some of the C2 and Uni Turbo guys post up about their Post-cat O2 sensor please. Is it operational? What is its function if SAI/EVAP is removed from software? I did not ask for it to be removed on my software. I have a cat with o2 bung--do I run the secondary O2? 
Primary O2 is in downpipe, with second bung for my wideband gauge. So far, everything fits great. We spent the weekend helicoiling the transmission bracket, and did not get a ton done. Need to pick up the pace a bit in the next few weeks.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

What is the function of the secondary(post-cat) o2 sensor in stock programing? How does some of the turbo software (c2 R32 turbo file) change or affect the function of the rear o2?
Thanks in advance!!


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Pretty sure THE ONLY function of the 2nd O2 is to check on the difference the CAT makes. Basically it's there to make sure the CAT is still doing it's job. Everything else reads off the primary.

Oh, you're in NJ. Are you running a cat? If not, get something that looks like one. Put the O2 sensor where it needs to be since you need it for inspection. If you get a CEL because of the high flow cat, you can always get that programmed out, but still have the sensor in place for visual inspection.


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## PhReE (Sep 16, 2004)

fourthchirpin said:


> a tree as an engine lift LMAO love it! :thumbup:


x2 !!

And do I see some sort of amature radio tower in the bg of one of those pics? Cool stuff man!!




GTIVRon said:


> Pretty sure THE ONLY function of the 2nd O2 is to check on the difference the CAT makes. Basically it's there to make sure the CAT is still doing it's job. Everything else reads off the primary.
> 
> Oh, you're in NJ. Are you running a cat? If not, get something that looks like one. Put the O2 sensor where it needs to be since you need it for inspection. If you get a CEL because of the high flow cat, you can always get that programmed out, but still have the sensor in place for visual inspection.




This is true, and most 24vT files ignore the second O2 sensor, but just leave it there and plugged in to pass the visuals. It will not be doing anything functional though. Make sense?


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## nitr08 (Aug 10, 2003)

the man the moment:beer:


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

looks like cool jesus has blessed the motor^^^ All should go well from here on out.


LOL.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## DannyLo (Aug 2, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Almost there :beer: Are you going to H2O?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Getting there.....as much work we get done, it just shows how much is actually left to complete. Neither me or the car will be anywhere near ready for H2o...trips like that cut into work time on getting the car on the road. 

I am having alot of issues with with the C2 over-axle stainless piece i have, so the thought at the moment is have it trailered to a local shop that welds stainless to have everything finished up. Currently, all O2 sensors and catalytic converter is installed. The cat has v bands on both sides, and I have a single v band flange on the shelf just for this purpose. 3 inch exhaust will be emissions compliant for NJ, and hopefully will not keep me from making decent numbers.


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## 24ValveGLI (Mar 20, 2005)

Looks good, but there is so much silicone. Are you going to build a pipe from the turbo to the AWIC?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

There is alot of silicone currently, but nothing has been cut down yet. In the future i will have piping made up, but for now its silicone, piping, and couplers. The awic still needs to be permanently mounted before finalizing anything. The silicone you see will be cut down for better fitment. 
We should be powering up the car this weekend to start working on electrical. Also, gonna finalize alot of AN lines for coolant and oil. Alot of work left...


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## bansheelos (Nov 29, 2004)

:beer:


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

It looks like it will be a PITA to change the air filter if sitting under the intercooler is it's final location..


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

True....AWIC must come out to deal with the turbo inlet and filter, but this car will have a full skidplate with side shields as well, so the bay should not get much debris. The AWIC lines will have extra length so i wont have to completely disconnect the core or drain the system to reach that TIP and filter.

Will be getting back to work on this project after Sept 18, as the skilled hands are on vacation.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Back to work....


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

I like....

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

More fab work to come...


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## steu2011 (Jan 13, 2011)

opcorn::thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Haven't updated in a week. We finalized the oil cooler and awic radiator this past weekend. Both are removable with hardware and will clear the skidplate setup that includes aluminum side plating coming down from the frame rail.
Aluminum welding has begun to mount the a/w intercooler in the engine bay. We are using a three legged stand that keeps the core above the airfilter. It will all be bolted in and easily removable for access to filter and wiring. The axles are installed and the lower tie bar will be installed after finding proper hardware.
Wiring will be the last hurdle after aluminum fabbing is complete. We are getting there...will update with pics after the weekend....
Thanks for the support


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Did work today...methanol pump is mounted on front bumper support. Oil cooler and awic rad are complete...u can also see the fpr and fuel lines are good to go. mount for the intercooler is a 3 legged brace that goes where the stock battery would be. This sits above the air filter and makes positioning the Turbo inlet pipe a bit difficult. We are still finishing that fab work to make removal of the core as easy as possible..


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Went to visit friend's of friends to get some inspiration. A solid 12v build w/ 60-1:




























And checked out a buddy's mkii vr swap in progress:










Then went back and did some man work on the jetta. Brought the decent camera to get better pics.
Enjoy:


















































































The awic core has been mounted, and the Godzilla DV is being finalized tommorrow onto the intercooler. Once a few more parts come in, we can finalize the turbo inlet pipe, recirc for the DV, and rip the front end back off the car to finish the rad welding, fan and ac condenser install, and bolt everything back up for the final time. More to come....:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

One the front end comes back off, we can plumb the remaining coolant lines. Here is some of the fittings being used:




































These are AN fittings, with the largest being -16AN. The outlets on my radiator will be welded on. The blue -16AN tee fitting allows the billet inline filler neck to be plumbed between rad and thermostat housing to make burping the system easier. Also, the oem secondary coolant pump is plumbed right off the barb on the front of the block, and will be used to pump coolant through the turbo following shutdown, just as it operates in its stock form. A -6AN y block will be used for this purpose. 

More man work to come tommorrow.


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Damn. I'm jelly.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Intercooler is mounted. DV is installed, and recirc is welded up and complete. We added a 45 degree elbow on the 4 inch turbo inlet pipe to bring it around the motor a bit. 

We can now pull the front end apart a final time before final assembly. Its time to assemble the flex fans, ac condensor, and the rad needs two -16AN fittings welded onto the inlet and outlet. When all this is said and done, the wiring can begin. Sometime in there some coolant hoses will be made, and maybe, just maybe we will get the jetta on the road.
eace:eace:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

New AEM dryflow air filter and the 3.5' x 6' hump hose that will go from intercooler straight to the throttle body. How is that for short piping?

Work this weekend will concentrate on taking the front end apart to assemble everything for the last time.
The radiator needs AN fittings welded on. We need to find a place to mount the secondary coolant pump and plumb in the -6AN ss line to the barb fittings on the block and pump. I want to start assembling the vacuum hose set up, as plumbing a check valve and AN lines and fittings onto the brake booster will not be easy. My intake mani has two -6AN fittings coming off. One will be dedicated to the brake booster, and the other will be plumbed to a vacuum block. Lines will be that wonderful black braided nylon AN lines. After all that work, we can start wiring this bitch up. Wish us luck!!!


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

Good luck man. It's definitely looking good. 

When you're done I want to see a dyno vid, and a vid of you vs a heads/cam/boltons/tune ls1. Ha ha.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Rockstar!!!!


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## GTIVRon (Jul 24, 2009)

What is that small pipe Y'd off from the intake pipe?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Thats the recirc for the diverter valve. The godzilla valve is welded directly to my intercooler endtank and plumbed back into the turbo inlet pipe. The dv recirculation pipe is 2". My turbo inlet pipe is 4". Silicone coming off the turbo is 2.5" to the intercooler and 3.5" coming out to the 80mm throttle body. 
We started wiring and dissassembly of front end. Below the intercooler is the power set-up. More work and pics to come....Woo hoo


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Electrical and vacuum lines gettin done. Axle nuts have been found and were torqued on. Also mounted catch can and filled block up with oil. Even with only 1 day of man work this weekend, we still got a good amount done. Next weekend we can start to turn on the car's electrical system.


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

:thumbup:
R8 oil cap?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yup...R8 oil cap---only 29 bucks. Forget what vendor found me that part number but i think it belongs on the valve cover.
Thanks!!!


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> =


anyone have a large pic of this photo?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Which photo? I am only seeing an equal sign. I am surprised no one has picked up on or mentioned my vacuum manifold system. Also, we made the line for the brake booster and added a billet AN check valve. The area 51 intake mani has two -6AN fittings.


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> Which photo? I am only seeing an equal sign. I am surprised no one has picked up on or mentioned my vacuum manifold system. Also, we made the line for the brake booster and added a billet AN check valve. The area 51 intake mani has two -6AN fittings.


its the photo that shows the cross section of the 24v 2.8 and 24v 3.2 head, and it shows a graph... mm on the x axis?? 

its in german

thanks for the reply!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Nope...sorry. I only had the image saved on my iphone from another thread. Seems relevant for the gains we are making with hybrid motors using the R head on a 2.8l bottom end. 
On another note, has anyone used Jiffy-tite 5000 series quick-connect fittings for any plumbing needs? I am interested in doing 3/4' NPT Jiffy-tite quick disconnect fittings to -8AN hose for my intercooler plumbing in the engine bay. This allows me to access electrical and vacuum fittings mounted below the core without emptying the entire system. I am just looking for real-life feedback--will repeated use result in leaking? I am looking at the nitrile o-ring with a valve set-up. Then the intercooler can be disconnected from all my plumbing--trunk to bay to secondary rad up front. Kinda pricey fittings that i hope will add to daily drivability , rather than another weak point and possible failure point.


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

thanks anyway! build looks awesome keep it up!

i will be watching closely


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Thanks for the well-wishes...didn't do a ton on the car today but we did spend some time figuring out plumbing on the last of the coolant lines. In the next week, i will go find a shop who can tig weld my radiator and make a little custom fitting for this build. All -16AN earl's fittings are being used, including a tee fitting to allow a remote filler neck to be plumbed in. Should be a trick piece, as i will have two fittings welded together to make use of small space. We are also working out vacuum lines, and mounting spots for the meth computer, boost gauge sensor, and boost controller. All vacuum lines are plumbed from the vacuum manifold bolted under the power plate. All of this plumbing will be under the massive awic intercooler core and will be reachable easily with the use of quick disconnect fittings from jiffy-tite.
More to come...


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Two quick, horrid pics of todays fun. Mounted sensors to the brace under awic core. Finalized grounds and power wires, and got a good idea of what we got left. Next weekend we will find a way to mount the secondary coolant pump and start fitting the radiator before that gets welded for -AN fittings....woohoo!!
We are estimating about 82% complete at this time. Next weekend the battery will go in the trunk, and the car may see 12v for the first time in over 2years!!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Rad is being welded for -16AN fittings. Top feed has a -16AN tee fitting that will allow my billet inline filler neck. 
Also, dropping this finished interior piece off at the painter to get sprayed. Essentially, my Apexi AVC-R boost controller has been graphed into center vent.








Here we come, "Boost-by-gear" and traction!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

More to come.…


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

We are making progress....Enjoy pics from the good camera for once!!


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## jon_vr6 (May 7, 2008)

So wonderful. Did you weld the AN fitting on the valve cover for the catch can? 

Subscribed


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

No, the valve cover just threads in with the correct adapter. The stock stuff can just be pulled out of the valve cover without issue. I believe it is an NPT to -10AN but forget details. I am in AN fitting overdrive after almost completing the oil and coolant piping in the engine bay. Way to much to remember, and i honestly finished the valve cover mini-project over a year ago at this point. Amazing how far its come, considering what has actually been completed over that time period. The flex fans were purchased 3+ years ago and put on various shelves throughout the years. This was the first purchase of my turbo build, and it is a great feeling to see it all come together.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

So we have finished all AWIC and coolant lines in the car. All hose ends have been made. We completed the AWIC system with a Mezeire pump and 5 gallon reservoir in the trunk plumbed to a -8 braided stainless feed and return. The pump goes straight to the secondary radiator mounted up front, then to the awic core and the return goes from the core back to the 5 gallon reservoir. These two braided ss -8an lines travel through the frame rail under the exhaust and into the trunk via 90 degree AN bulkhead fittings. All braided ss AN lines in the engine bay have a plastic protective cover to keep from ruining electrical wiring, etc. Jiffy-tite quick disconnect fittings can be seen attached to the awic core to help with removal, as all electrical and plumbing run under the core where the battery is located stock. My yellow top optima is mounted in the trunk, with lines running the length of the passenger side frame rail and into the cowl area to driver side power plate. All vacuum lines are -6AN braided black nylon, with one line going directly to the brake booster, and a second line going to a vacuum block mounted to the power plate under awic core.
First start-up and engine break-in is around the corner and should make for one fantastic christmas present!!!
I wanna thank Jay "The Mustache", as well as Pete the Great Greek for their dedication to the cause and keeping our "Man Dates" every Sunday morning.
It has been a hell of a journey, boys, But success is within our grasp. It is almost time to hunt down some very expensive cars and embarrass some unknowing vette owners!!!
Thanks for tuning in and watching this adventure unfold!!


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## tehbrosta (Nov 7, 2007)

Simply amazing, promise us start up video 

I went to a local performance shop that carried XRP AN fittings. Just the two lines out of the heater core including the coolant ball going to the block and t-stat, I was quoted $350! I can't imagine what you spend alone in AN on his build. I'm sure you don't want to know either.

I know you said you did this a while ago, but you remember what adapter you had to use for the IE heater core fittings to AN? and what size? This shop didn't have metric adapters in stock, so I couldn't try those.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Yea...i certainly do not wish to know the total in AN fittings at this point. I used Earl's fittings throughout, as we have had issues with Summit brand hose end fittings not holding up.

For the integrated engineering Billet Heater hose fittings, i contacted the manufacturer for the necessary adaptor. I remember it being an o-ring adapter fitting out to -10AN hose. Same with the SAI block off plate, as one heater hose goes to the backside of the head into the plate. I suggest using Jegs or Summit to source the fittings, as they will be cheaper than the performance shop. Prices for AN fittings and adapters ranged from $20 to $80 depending on size. The Jiffy-tite disconnects were the most expensive part of the conversion. 
The interesting part will be to see how many miles i can get out of the tapped t stat housing before i see any leaks. We tapped the t stat plastic housing to accept NPT to AN adapters, and used teflon sealer as well. We are hoping 50+k miles is easily attainable for an almost daily driven car.

Start-up video will certainly follow in the next few weeks. Then we can follow with some highway kill videos.
Thanks for tuning in....


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Here are some pics of the mounting for the secondary coolant pump, which runs after shut-down. We plumbed these coolant lines from the turbo to the block, with coolant feeding the turbo from the crackpipe.


































































More to come this weekend....thanks for tuning in.


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## joeeveryman87 (Dec 6, 2010)

everything looks so damn sexy......except fot that power steering resvoir of yours lol but seriously goos stuff man :beer:. 2 weeks from now marks the start of my 24v build......kinda scared not gonna lie :laugh:


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

This is where she stands. Technically we could hook the battery up and turn the key, but we are taking our time. Currently it is wiring time for some of the electrical additions, such as boost controller, boost gauge, wideband, and meth. Still need to finalize the cooling system and fill 'er up.
Another warm weekend in south jersey and this little puppy is gonna be on the road.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

And new shoes for the subie....


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Still need to fab up the exhaust, but progress is always being made.
The oem votex bumper went to the painter today. It fit over the awic radiator with one cut to the back side of the bumper, and we are good to go. If the weather allows, our "front modular assembly" will come off and then go back on for the final time. The hard part will be to pre-load all the largest AN fittings and lines so they remain tight and operational forever and ever. We will be using blue loc-tite on those -16AN black earl's fittings that go from t-stat to radiator.

The exhaust is all 409 stainless steel, 3 inch turbo back, using a flowmaster muffler and a metallic core high-flow cat. The cat and down pipe are v banded and installed already, along with the o2 sensors. I had a buddy tig weld the matching v band on my big 5 foot long straight pipe that will attach to the cat. Everything else we do will be mig'd.
A little electrical and some final tightening, and we may have an actual driving vehicle very soon.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Bumper comes back from the painter tomorrow. Today we made a bracket to allow the shifter to clear our custom turbo inlet pipe, MAF housing and filter. The TIP, housing, and filter is a full 4 inch directly off the compressor housing. My Godzilla diverter valve is recirc'ed back into the TIP post MAF. 
The power steering reservoir has been removed for cleaning, but the banjo bolt and line are installed. We also fit my new GruvenParts billet dipstick to the stock funnel and cut out some material to be able to actually access the dipstick with everything on the car. Once all the coolant lines are tight and the front modular assembly is on the car for the last time, we can add coolant and call it a day.
Dooooin work!!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)




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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

We finalized the front end this weekend and got a ton done.All coolant lines are connected and tight. Ac and power steering are also done, with fluid in the lines and bled. We also made the team decision to fire off the motor next weekend after priming the system. The fuel pump set-up is now being fitted with new clamps, and a new 044 sock. The tank also had to be drained and cleaned. I am running an in-tank Bosch 044 pump bolted onto the stock bracketry with the help of 034 motorsports hardware and bracket. This positions the 044 in place of the stock swirl pot/pump, yet retains the stock level sensor, cap, collapsable bracket and OEM wiring. 
I also bought a billet aluminum sock fitting set-up from Jay Racing to help avoid starvation issues associated with running the in-tank pumps. We had to mod the Jay Racing fitting by cutting the length down in order to fit a sock on the bottom of the big 044 pump when the stock bracket sort of collapses to fit in the tank. 
I have stock fuel lines up to the engine bay, where it becomes -6AN braided stainless lines to the R32 fuel rail, powdercoated gold and mod'ed to fit -6AN.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Went to fire the motor today...found that we installed the oil filter canister without o-rings between that and the block. We have great oil pressure though!!
I ordered a set from the local dealer, but they will not be in till Wednesday. So, like all parts of this build-up, we ran into another little delay. I have the o rings off my extra block, that appear to be ok, but we will probably wait for new ones.

My Bosch 044 in-tank fuel pump is installed. We used the 034 Motorsports mounting brackets on the stock sender. All lines are the new Gates submersible stuff that can handle today's fuels even fully submerged. In addition, i am using a sock filter set-up from Jay Racing to help with fuel starvation, but i will not be running this car with any less than 1/4 tank of gas. The good part is Jay racing re-designed the 044 filter and shortened the fitting so that it fits into the MKIV tank perfectly. We are very happy with the in-tank 044 set-up. The fuel tank has also been cleaned and refilled with fresh 93 octane. Tomorrow we prime the fuel system and button up some other parts of the car. I guess next weekend we will try to fire off the motor!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Well, no more oil leaks!! We have oil pressure and we have fuel pressure at the rail. The powder-coating cooked my schrader valve in the R fuel rail, so that was dealt with yesterday.
New main issue---software!! When i originally purchased my C2 custom tune to match my hardware, Jeff was still with the company. I have also sent this ecu back to C2 at least 3 times for various upgrades and drivability tweaks that have been made for other cars already on the road. I know that i initially had C2 remove the immobilizer, as this was my extra ecu and not the computer that originally came with my swap.
So...fast-forward to yesterday!! No start(spark or fuel) with the immobilizer flashing away on the cluster. We ran and grabbed my stock ecu that does not match any of the new hardware, but of course that did nothing either.
So both ecu's are now in the mail back to C2 to address the immobilizer issue on the loaded ecu, and to see if C2 will copy the tune onto my completely stock ecu as well. This will allow me to save and email logs to the tuner, allowing changes in my software, while still being able to drive the car in the mean time!!
C2 could even choose to keep the immobilizer intact on my stock ecu, as it matches the engine, cluster, and key.
So here is too next weekend. C2 should receive both computers by Wednesday, and i am hoping for a quick return.
Funny part is the initial swap from 2.0 to 2.8l never gave any immobilizer issues after we figured out the chip in the car key had to match. This turbo build is fighting me all the way!! 
Anyone else have issues with the lovely VW immobilizer?? Post up similar stories!!!


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## tehbrosta (Nov 7, 2007)

Snitches Get Stitches said:


> Well, no more oil leaks!! We have oil pressure and we have fuel pressure at the rail. The powder-coating cooked my schrader valve in the R fuel rail, so that was dealt with yesterday.
> New main issue---software!! When i originally purchased my C2 custom tune to match my hardware, Jeff was still with the company. I have also sent this ecu back to C2 at least 3 times for various upgrades and drivability tweaks that have been made for other cars already on the road. I know that i initially had C2 remove the immobilizer, as this was my extra ecu and not the computer that originally came with my swap.
> So...fast-forward to yesterday!! No start(spark or fuel) with the immobilizer flashing away on the cluster. We ran and grabbed my stock ecu that does not match any of the new hardware, but of course that did nothing either.
> So both ecu's are now in the mail back to C2 to address the immobilizer issue on the loaded ecu, and to see if C2 will copy the tune onto my completely stock ecu as well. This will allow me to save and email logs to the tuner, allowing changes in my software, while still being able to drive the car in the mean time!!
> ...


 Looking great! I will be doing a immo3 gli cluster swap, not looking forward to that mess! 

What kind of stainless fuel lines are you running? I plan on doing SS lines from the rear (maybe hardlines as far forward as possible) to the front but I do not want fuel vapor leak and deterioration. I've been reading black teflon is the way to go but you have to use stainless fittings to ground it and so forth.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Stock fuel lines from the tank through the passenger side frame rail and up into the bay. From there i used an adapter to the -6AN braided stainless steel and Earl's fittings to the adjustable FPR and from there, all the way to the R32 fuel rail. It is visible in the pictures, as it is powder-coated gold like my brake calipers and sway bars. The R32 fuel rail was modified with -6AN fittings welded directly to each end.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Laying pipe.....


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

All piping is 3 inch 409 stainless steel, with ss v bands, and hangers. Welding with ss mig wire on a millermatic and Argon/Co2 mix. Start-up next weekend when the ecu's return from C2.


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

do work! it's coming along well.... 

reading through I saw that you had some issues with summit fittings? what specifically, they would just back out or somethin? I have mostly aeroquip / russel but my fuel lines are summit.... and now I'm a bit nervous. They've been on the car with no problems for about 6 months now.... just wondering what happened with yours.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

The summit lines themselves i have had no issues. It is the fittings that are not as reliable as the other name brands. We experienced alot of leaks and short life span on a recent high hp 1.8t build--oil lines leaking and needing rebuilding within 3 months of start-up. They just didnt hold up...forget re-using them!!
No failures so far with the Earl's fittings, but we are going to keep an eye on the t-stat housing, where we tapped and fit NPT to AN adapters. I will let you know how these lines fair.
I am awaiting my ECU from C2, and then we can break her in.
Thanks for tuning in!! More to come very soon.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Sh*t just got real!!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Bad crankshaft position sensor.....positives are both computers communicated with the vehicle and diagnostically without an issue. Two codes immediately popped--we also had no rpms while cranking. Codes were for MAF(unplugged) and for no crank speed reading--so after chasing down a brand new impulse sensor and fighting the urge to use the second used sensor attached to the extra block, we now wait for back-up, and move forward!! 
Problem solved....first start-up coming in the next two hours!!


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## Deezy (Jan 3, 2009)

I had the same problem


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

did it start yet!?


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

5:15pm eastern standard time....


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## 1broknrado (Jul 6, 2005)

make sure to get a first start uo video... those are always my favorite whenever i get a motor running for the first time in my cars. best reactions ever.


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

She runs and idles under her own power...not for long--no coolant and brand new machine surfaces...
Two bad coils and a backwards MAF
But all is well now!!


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## Snitches Get Stitches (Jul 21, 2007)

Little update.....Car runs and drives like a champ. Have had our fair share of issues to handle. Alternator died, along with a bunch of other OEM electronics, and we also helicoiled the entire intake side of my R32 head. We found a ripped o-ring and some threads being pulled out. 

Life is pretty good right now...running off the wastegate spring at 11 pounds. Car is having the bugs ironed out and will be aligned by the end of the week.
Still have some things to take care of and some sensors to replace. Currently waiting on the Bluewater/034 billet fuel rail to replace my OEM modified R32 fuel rail that has a pinhole leak where the -6AN fitting was welded on. No fuel lines will need to be remade or replaced. 

I need some info and advice from people as far as my software goes, as far as passing emissions and inspection in New Jersey. The car DOES NOT have a check engine light on. The only code stored was a "Timing retarded" code after the car sat for a week and had little oil pressure at start-up. That code has not returned. My issue is with the State of New Jersey OBD2 readiness states. My ecu is showing 3 readiness, Misfire, Fuel, and CCM. According to the inspection tech, NJ has 5 readiness states requried, and by our estimation, we are missing readiness monitors for Evap, O2(w/ heater for O2), and SAI. My SAI system is physically deleted, but I do have a resistor in place on the harness. I also paid C2 to remove SAI in the software, but I did not know this removed the readiness monitor also.(I have a MK3 VR with C2 race software that writes out SAI but shows SAI readiness monitor as a forced pass).
I am going back and forth with C2 as we speak, but wanted to hear from the community. I also wanted to reach out to Jeff(Jeffnes or something similar) who works with United Motorsports, as i may need more than just tweaked bench chip tunes at this point. Anyone have his S/N or personal contact info? PM me please.

Also, the caris doing something weird as it comes down from highway speed, as you depress the clutch, it will stall out. Thanks to my boost controler, Apexi AVC-R, we can see the throttle close, showing 0%, yet the ecu seems not to be able to recover the idle from that point. This may be due to the very lightened rotating assembly and the ecu's inability to catch idle as the knife-edged crank just keeps spinning.

Anyone see or hear this before?

C2 custom software based off the R32 Turbo tunes they have out there on 550cc injectors.


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