# MKVI Golf R Haldex fluid screw up



## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

I accidentally added gear oil to my haldex portion of my rear diff today. I'm letting it drain overnight and filling it with haldex fluid tomorrow but my question is do I need to remove the haldex controller to get the remaining gear oil out or can I just open the drain hole and let it flow out?


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

idk about the controller, but a good and easy way to clear the Haldex is to run a fill of ATF thru it, then drain. Best fluid would be Dexron VI, or just a good Dex III. Skip the friction-modified ATFs, like ATF+4, Universals, HiMiles, etc. Dex is nice and grippy for the clutchpacks, to compensate for the slick Gear Oil (GL-5) that's in there.

fwiw, if you were just flushing an overdue Haldex or for some reason needed a replacement fluid in an emergency, a "Universal" or "Multi" ATF has special friction additives which react "properly" to the clutch material they are exposed to.

Whatever you do, imo that GL-5 has to get out, and ATF is the most cost-effective way to do it.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

Let me be more clear, you don't just want to drain the gear oil out of the case, you want to physically scrub the GL-5 friction modifiers OUT of your clutchpacks. The only way to do this is a flush. Good luck buddy. :thumbup:


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## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

Apexxx said:


> Let me be more clear, you don't just want to drain the gear oil out of the case, you want to physically scrub the GL-5 friction modifiers OUT of your clutchpacks. The only way to do this is a flush. Good luck buddy. :thumbup:


Can I fill it back up with haldex and once it has soaked in can I flush it and refill it with the haldex again?


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

Sure, if you want to spend a few bucks more and use Haldex fluid twice. I would drive it a good 10mi to warm up and then dump it. I just don't think you should drive more than 100 miles or so on the mixed GL-5 & Haldex fluid.

You'd def be ok flushing it w/Dexron, using Haldex and then waiting till a reasonable service interval to change it again, say 20-25k.

Admittedly, this is mostly opinion, but based on a solid knowledge base.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

Do you have a specific concern or question?


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

That's a "no" then.


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## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

I filled it back up with Haldex on Tuesday and let it warm up then did another flush and refill. So far there doesn't seem to be any issues. I've been listeing for whining and binding but haven't heard anything yet. I also filled the correct portion of the differential with royal purple 75-90 gear oil. Yes, the rear portion of the rear differential this time. I have been working with Greg from the shop AutoFirme in New York and he has been a great help.


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## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

How about you stop bickering and getting all butthurt like little ****ing kids on my thread


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

Do you really have enough miles on your R that you need to be messing with diff fluids already???

:sly:


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

As a data point, some OEs spec a single change of MTF at 6k, then no more.


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## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

Jay-Bee said:


> Do you really have enough miles on your R that you need to be messing with diff fluids already???
> 
> :sly:


Do you really have enough space time to be asking questions about what I'm doing to MY car?


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

It's a valid question. Most people here are operating on a pretty basic level and cannot participate w/o dead-end questions as a substitute for in-depth analysis.


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*it's a deep dark hole*



Apexxx said:


> It's a valid question. Most people here are operating on a pretty basic level and cannot participate w/o dead-end questions as a substitute for in-depth analysis.


between your ears. cut and paste the same charts over and over to show your suposed superiority. as i've said before your long strand polymeres are way short and your surface tension is very week.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

"Week", indeed.


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## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

I changed the fluid because I wanted to be running a superior fluid compared to what was put in from the factory. That being said when I drained the factory gear oil with under 2k on the odo it already smelled burnt but obviously there was no color change since it was hardly used but just based on the smell of the gear oil you can often tell how hard it is being worked and how well it is holding up to the stress inside the diff itself.


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

I don't even come into this forum, but man this thread made it worth it..

Please, continue... opcorn:


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

sicgolfrowner said:


> I changed the fluid because I wanted to be running a superior fluid compared to what was put in from the factory. That being said when I drained the factory gear oil with under 2k on the odo it already smelled burnt but obviously there was no color change since it was hardly used but just based on the smell of the gear oil you can often tell how hard it is being worked and how well it is holding up to the stress inside the diff itself.



You really think that an aftermarket company has better fluids than what a huge team of engineers at Vw determined?


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## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*he and apeshirt*



Dave926 said:


> You really think that an aftermarket company has better fluids than what a huge team of engineers at Vw determined?


they have specs for a reason. they warranty the product, can't be any simpler than that. lot's of geniuses here that got passed by in real life.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

There's a 
vw branded fluid and there is the retail equivalent. I'd use either.


Not knowing the specs for Haldex means idk what the OP is referring to, but I don't blame him for changing it early.


iirc, I changed my Acura MTL at 2500 miles, my wife's Astra at 5000 and mine around 4k.


I would like to know more about the Haldex fluid and substitutes, if anyone has info.


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## sicgolfrowner (Apr 9, 2012)

gmikel said:


> they have specs for a reason. they warranty the product, can't be any simpler than that. lot's of geniuses here that got passed by in real life.


Have you ever considered that a car company wants to make lots of cash and sometimes skimps on the R&D and the fact that they have a warranty is to cover their shoddy workmanship? Just another angle to think from. I'm pretty sure the guys at royal purple have done their fare share of R&D, independent testing ect. Race teams don't look to VW to engineer fluids brohan, they look to companies like lucas oil and royal purple. Knowledgecate yourself


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

sicgolfrowner said:


> Knowledgecate yourself


Maybe you should have followed your own advice when it comes to putting the right fluid in the right place.... BAM.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

"Lucas R&D? Seriously? 

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j120/jhemp41/*******.jpg

Where did that idea come from? From what Ive seen, Lucas is nothing more than greasy slop in an $8 bottle. It actually dilutes good oil. lmk what performance sequences or OE fills they have.

Royal Purple is the pretty-boy Kool-Aid of automotive fluids.

No offense, but your assumptions are all wrong.

OE specs have their place, but oddball products are no substitute. Amsoil and Redline are the exceptions, by far, but they simply don't advertize to 20-somethings.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

Wait, don't tell me you were putting RP in a Haldex?!

Dude, please stop.

Look this site over...

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-680-car-engine-gearbox-oils-by-manufacturer-specification.aspx


and this one...

http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/origin/lubrizol/EOACEA2009/RPTOOL2010Dep/rp/pc/index.html


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

sicgolfrowner said:


> Have you ever considered that a car company wants to make lots of cash and sometimes skimps on the R&D and the fact that they have a warranty is to cover their shoddy workmanship? Just another angle to think from. I'm pretty sure the guys at royal purple have done their fare share of R&D, independent testing ect. Race teams don't look to VW to engineer fluids brohan, they look to companies like lucas oil and royal purple. Knowledgecate yourself


That's why their fluids meet Vw 5xx specs right? What would have been better would be to send a sample out for analysis, retest with that newer **** and go from there.


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

Makes sense to me.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

sicgolfrowner said:


> Have you ever considered that a car company wants to make lots of cash and sometimes skimps on the R&D and the fact that they have a warranty is to cover their shoddy workmanship? Just another angle to think from. I'm pretty sure the guys at royal purple have done their fare share of R&D, independent testing ect. Race teams don't look to VW to engineer fluids brohan, they look to companies like lucas oil and royal purple. Knowledgecate yourself


Why the hell did you buy a car that lacks in R&D and has shoddy workmanship. You think Royal Burple is gonna fix that?

Keep drinking the kool-aid bud.

And I do have enough "space time" whatever that is, because you seem to have messed up and are trying to cover it up.

:wave:


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## Draklore (Feb 28, 2011)

My Boy Jesse Made this same mistake, he got caught up in the hype companies like royal purple and Lucas make on the race scene... Things like putting RP in a Haldex was all about that next sponsorship or Race, but in reality it was just another sticker on his side skirt.

All that's behind him now anyway... He couldn't hang when the Haldex failed and his car lost the race. The other guy knew about OE specs and proper lubrication. 
It's really a shame too, Jesse was like a mad scientist, could've gone to MIT

Good luck OP


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## Apexxx (Nov 10, 2011)

There you go. 

Tweeking your fluids has a place, but inside a Haldex is not it. 

I'll take it on the chin for: 

Dino oil in non-turbos 

ATF as PSF 

Maxlife ATF in Tiptronic 

DOT 3 over DOT 4 

Dexcool = G-12 

Thin MTF 

Thin motor oil 

Cheap filters 

INfrequent air filter changes 

etc, etc... 

But not substitute Haldex fluids


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