# My 12V VRT 02M conversion.



## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

Well its been 3 years since I finished my engine build and 02M conversion.

I went to Stockholm,Sweden december 2008 and picked up a 02M from a 2002 Golf R32. Also got the starter, cable shifer. Ordered termostathousing from a Audi TT 3.2 V6, cut my Samco coolant lines so it would fit with the new termostathousing. "Need 24V termostathousing with 02M."
Also ordered the driveshaft shop 02M axels, that was bolt on, and has been without any issues last 3 years :thumbup:
Saw the guys over in Sweden like Foffa and several other 600+whp drag VR6s use 02M and Cluthnet cluthes. Talked to Foffa and he said it actually was a Sachs pp, that Clutchnet had painted red and a 4 hub disc with no springs should hold my setup.. So I ordered it, along with a new FW from fourseasion. Rebuilding the R32 box to fwd went pretty easy. Just need to fit a axel-hub from a 02M/02Q fwd car, and I got a custom flange to fit so the oem seal fitted perfect. 

I wanted to do it right, the first time with the 02M. So a FWD Peloquin diff was fitted along with custom 02M brackets so the gearbox would fit the 02A mounts. 02A gearmount needed to be relocated just a little bit. And heres is where I think it all went abit wrong. 
I think the gearmount has been fitted a little to low. Reason why I think so, is because the first trips I did I manged to bend the 02M bracket. And the threads on the 02M holding the bracket was all gone. I fitted Helicoil threads in the 02M and welded a 2mm steel plate on the bracket. All good.

Clutchnet disc didnt hold all the torque they said it would. Nothing new from a American clutch manufactur 

Clutchmaster FX850 twin disc was fitted march/april this year, and it holds up fine so far. Very nice to drive, and it hooks HARD if you want it to. In the traffic its fine. Lighter peal than the red Clutchnet setup. And much better on/off feeling. 

Today @ 20 psi/1.4bar. Rev limiter second gear, straight into third and I felt something was wrong... Something was loose. Engine or gearbox.

This is what it looked like when I opened the hood:


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## 91maz626lx (Jul 13, 2005)

damn it looks like the casing mount point snapped,


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

It did. And it cant be welded. So I need to change the hole casing. Great :thumbup:


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

anything can be welded, you just need to talk to the right welder


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## VR6-GT42RS (Jun 4, 2008)

this can not be welded..it is magnesium...i hate those aftermarket mounts!


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

VR6-GT42RS said:


> this can not be welded..it is magnesium...i hate those aftermarket mounts!


magnesium can be welded. is it some sort of weird alloy? zinc ? aluminum ?


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## marat_g60 (Mar 5, 2003)

Sucks this happened man, how long was the bolt that ripped out of there? Im gonna recheck mine and make sure the bolt is as long as possible to catch all the threads. I just finished swapping over to 02M in my Corrado and didnt have to move the transmission cup. I just grinded a bit of the cup/mount away and have enough clearance now. Also I went with the diesel geek short shifter and this allowed me to use the 12V thermostat housing.


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## VR6-GT42RS (Jun 4, 2008)

some kind of mix is it.. i have tried to weld in 02m housing.. without luck...o2a/j housing is no problem..


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

Bolt was as long as it could be. Thats why the whole thread piece came loose also. 
I just cant understand what the problem could have been, since this isnt the first time ive had issues with this mount. Last it was the two other bolts that went, and the whole mount bended.


So my conclusion must be, that my cup/mount is welded to low. Ive seen the engine been hanging a little low on the gearbox side. And that makes the gearbox hang a little low, so it will bend the mount and destroy the threads. 

Anyway, I asume there is no way around changing the casing :banghead:
Down with the damn gearbox AGAIN, and split the 02M.
Starts to feel the old 02A problems all over again........


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## magner (Jul 26, 2009)

looks like your bolts came loose dude. leave the box in the car and make a custom bracket :thumbup:


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

magner said:


> looks like your bolts came loose dude. leave the box in the car and make a custom bracket :thumbup:


Bolts was tightend 2 days before this. My 02M mount needs more support. When the car get traction, it hooks so damn hard. To little support on the bracket would be the same as running a 02A. = Problems.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

The 02m Case can definitely be welded, however, it is high magnesium and needs to be welded accordingly.

Example (Not mine), but from this thread -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2103310-Project-2120vt-Corrado/page3











Also, if you bracket bent, that is very suspect. The cup may be been lowered a bit, but even still, I don't think that should have happened. My guess, is that a bolt let loose or the brkt itself?? If the cup was lowered too far, you can just shim it with a washer or two or spacer. I always recommend that people go to set the engine in and re-shim regardless. Especially if you are using 2 different brand mounts as heights can differ.

Also, I added a strut to the side of my mount to make it indestructible (in addition to using 3/16" steel for the whole mount).


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## TBT-Syncro (Apr 28, 2001)

sdezego said:


> Also, I added a strut to the side of my mount to make it indestructible (in addition to using 3/16" steel for the whole mount).


thats a much much nicer looking bracket. thats similar to how i was thinking of doing mine when i was considering haldex.
:beer:


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## VR6-GT42RS (Jun 4, 2008)

you can not weld it with normal aluminium pins/whatever you call it..thats what i mean


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

sdezego said:


> The 02m Case can definitely be welded, however, it is high magnesium and needs to be welded accordingly.
> 
> Example (Not mine), but from this thread -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2103310-Project-2120vt-Corrado/page3
> 
> ...


Thanx for your input. I used Loctite on the bolts, but it seems that it didnt hold. 
Weld my bracket like yours. Just need to check the two other threads thats left in the casing.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

The other thing is that the Trans Boss threads on the top are very deep (all 3 of them). I use the longest bolt possible w/o it bottoming out. 

Also, how is your front Engine bracket and mount? Cross member? Cracks? I have seen both fail at times. If there is too much movement from the front, it could cause failure at the rear.

Just some more thoughts.


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## Norwegian-VR6 (Feb 6, 2002)

sdezego said:


> The other thing is that the Trans Boss threads on the top are very deep (all 3 of them). I use the longest bolt possible w/o it bottoming out.
> 
> Also, how is your front Engine bracket and mount? Cross member? Cracks? I have seen both fail at times. If there is too much movement from the front, it could cause failure at the rear.
> 
> Just some more thoughts.


I did the same think, got the longest bolt possible.
Front engine bracket/mount is ok. Had the front off, and took a good check. BFI stage 1 "green" mounts front/back engine.


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