# Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 *******

Well here are pictures from my weekend project of changing out the N91 & N281 Solenoids in my '02 Jetta 1.8T Tip and a Fluid change also. 
To start, get the car up on jackstands and ramps as I did, or 4 jackstands. Just make sure the car is perfectly level. That way when you check the level of the fluid later, it will be accurate. Also if you are going to open the trans up as I did, my recommendation is to use a pressure wand like at the coin op car wash to get everything really clean on the outside. 
I used the hose at home and Castrol Super Clean. Any cleaner will do, you just want to make sure no road debris can fall into the trans. I also removed the Battery and tray to make sure all was as clean as possible. It also helps to remove the plastic tray from underneath the car, it needs to come out anyhow. Just as a point of reference a replacement trans from the dealer runs $6500-6800 new and about $4500 rebuilt. So keep it clean, so you have no problems.
I used a Carpenters level on the radiator core support for side to side level and on the drivers door sill to check front to back level. Once the car was level, I removed the Battery & tray as well as the Airbox, so there is plenty of room to work on top. The airbox doesn't have to come out, but it makes life easier.
Car on Ramps and Jackstands









Level on door sill








Battery and Tray removed








Next I removed the left front wheel, the inner fender liner and the side splash shield to allow for better access. You dont need to do this for just a fluid change, but if you are going to remove the pan, I feel it makes life easier.
Wheel off








Side Splash shield removed








Next thing is to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain the trans. It seems that you will collect about 3 liters of fluid in the drain pan, sjoback reported 3.5 liters I believe. Just use a clean pail so you can measure what actually came out, by pooring it back into the trans fluid bottles. Use G 052 990 A2 fluid only. Available at  Impex for $16.25 per liter, cheapest price I have found so far.
Remove this plug to drain








Comes out like this








Drain Plug magnet, crud from 1st drain interval








The next step is to remove all the crap out of the way. I started by removing the hard steel line from the trans pan and the side mount on the trans. Leave the line connected, just move it out of the way. A zip tie works good to keep it out of the way. There is also a couple of sheetmetal mounts on the pan to support the wiring looms that pass in front of the pan, just tuck the looms out of the way.You will need all the room you can get to remove the pan. It is very cramped so patience is your friend here.
Here is why you need to move all this stuff








Wiring looms that need to be moved








Remove this bracket and the one on the side of the trans in second picture.
















Also remove this mount








A zip tie is your friend








Next I went back up top and removed the shift linkage and the multifunction switch, because it hangs over the pan. Note the position of the bolts, so you won't have to buy the special tool to re align the multifunction switch. Also remove the black plastic vent cap so you can remove the bolt that is near it. Just pry up on it gently and it will pop right off.
Next I went back down underneath and put a ratcheting tie down over the inner left CV joint and the crossmember. No need to remove the left side mount but the pendelum mount (aka dogbone) needs to come out so the tie down will move the trans back a couple of inches. You will need all the room you can get. the pan is a real biatch to get out and patience is your friend. There are many small wires that can be damaged if you are not careful. I don't even want to think about replacing the internal wiring harness.
Multifunction switch with linkage removed








Selector shaft with switch removed








Tie down over CV








Sub frame view of Tie Down








Next remove the pan that covers the valve body. I placed a drain pan under it to catch fluid. Suprisingly, very little fluid came out when removing the pan. Just a small bathroom size dixie cups amount of fluid came out. The pan must come out from the bottom, but you will need to work from the top to remove it so you don't snag any wires on the valve body. another thing is you will need to jiggle the power steering hose and wring looms to get the clearance needed to remove the pan. Take your time here. As the next picture shows the vent tube extends into the trans from the pan and is the major reason the pan is so difficult to remove. Also check out how the paint is missing internally on the pan and bubbled up. That can't be good, so I wire brushed all loose paint off and thoroughly cleaned it out inside of the pan.
Inside view of pan








The next couple of pictures just show random views of the valve body and solenoids. Unfortunately there is not much room to take pictures so I had to use an inspection mirror to get the shots. Sorry they are so small but it was the best I could do.

Valve Body Top View








Valve Body Bottom View








Side view from wheel well opening of valve body








































Here are the new solenoids and strainer. I have now verified the strainer can't be changed without major dis-assembly. I mean splitting the trans case apart. That just isn't going to happen at this time in my life and the Solenoids seem to have accomplished my goals at improving the shifting habits of my trans.
N281 Solenoid, controls brake B3for smoooth downshifts








N91 Solenoid, controls torque coverter lockup function









N91 Solenoids Old & New








Strainer aka Filter
























Here are pictures of the fluid and parts I used. I won't go into to much detail on the refill as sjoback covered it in his thread very thoroughly to I might add. Here is a Link to 09A Fluid change thread.
Fluid and misc parts used, last picture shows clean versus dirty fluid.
























Update 11/06/2004
I changed another couple of Solenoids N93 & N283
Here is the N283 Solenoid








And this is N93 Solenoid *P/N 09A 927 331 H*








That's all for now, I hope this helps and encourages others to feel confident enough to Rip into that Tip.

_Modified by coolvdub at 6:36 PM 8-4-2004_

_Modified by coolvdub at 9:04 PM 8-4-2004_

_Modified by coolvdub at 9:09 PM 8-4-2004_

_Modified by coolvdub at 8:05 PM 11-6-2004_


_Modified by coolvdub at 6:34 PM 12-15-2008_


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## vwdrajver (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

Teaser is the right word!!!








Keep the good work up!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 03Jetta1.8T (Dec 21, 2002)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (vwdrajver)*

Quick question, were you over 60k miles??


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (03Jetta1.8T)*

Yep, 167,006. I'm a long distance commuter.


_Modified by coolvdub at 7:47 PM 8-3-2004_


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## vwdrajver (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

WOW, I did 200kkm in 7 years.
Do you live in that Jetta????
BTW:
For that kind of mileage per year (day) here in Europe everybody takes the TDI.
Diesel costs up to 30% less than 98 gasoline.
And TDI's are less than 2000 USD more expensive – some BMW-s are even – 530d and 525i for example.
In France, Austria and Germany almost 50% of new sold cars are diesel engined.
I belive that less than 1% of cars in EU are above 2,5 liter engined and gasoline powered, percentage of automatic droven cars isn't above 5%.

Did you open your tipp to change the filter yet????
Bye.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (vwdrajver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwdrajver* »_
Did you open your tipp to change the filter yet????
Bye.


No, I didn't. I have it on good authority, information provided by one VW Tech and also second hand from a guy who has a friend that is the head engineer for the Tip for VWOA that the transaxle must be completely dis-assembled to remove the filter. Since my trans is shifting much better now since I replaced the N91 & N281 Solenoids, I have decided this is not needed right now. Also based on the fact that I have seen the size of the strainer now, and it is quite large. My feelings are you would have to have some major failure to plug the strainer. I feel (my opinion only) that the engineers left plenty of headroom in terms of filtering capacity. I will post up a picture later showing the size.


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## 03Jetta1.8T (Dec 21, 2002)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

Cool~
The filter is indeed buried in the middle.


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## vwdrajver (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

I'm having my 096 VW tranny of renault Espace dismantled and i'd like to ask you if I should also dissasemble and clean the valve body (and solenoids)?
All five of clutch pistons were worn and all 7 disc (metal)plates of the 3-4-th brake also. And one plate of 3-4th clutch was broken.
Bye, Blaz.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (vwdrajver)*

Hi Blaz,
I would say if you are going to the effort of a complete tear down, and you have clutch plates and discs that were worn you should do it. Just do yourself a favor and take some pictures of the valve body as you tear it down so you can make sure all goes back togther well.


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## 69523 (Sep 12, 2002)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

did you test the voltage or resistance on the solenoids or were you throwing a code that said it was bad?


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (baomo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *baomo* »_did you test the voltage or resistance on the solenoids or were you throwing a code that said it was bad?

I was throwing codes 01192 for the Torque Converter Lock Up. Controlled by Solenoid N91 and it showed low resistance at 15.6 ohms, in spec(9-24 ohms) but I figured while I was in there I might as change it. Also throwing 00347 for Solenoid N281, spec is 9-24 ohms and checked out at 52-70 ohms fluctuating, definately bad.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

I just finished doing the 5k drain on my transmission, fluid is still coming out brownish colored about the same as maple syrup. I expected that, so things are going well. I will do another drain interval in another 5k at which time I should have fully replaced all the fluid as the dry refill capacity is rated at 9 liters. If it is still brownish after that I may just chalk it up to after minimal time the fluid changes colors. Car seems to be shifting slightlt better but a good couple of days of commuting will tell the true story or if it's just placebo effect because I did something to the car.


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## 69523 (Sep 12, 2002)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

good work.
have you gotten the results back from your oil analysis?


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (baomo)*

No, I have the old sample sitting here. I need to call the lab and see if they can test a virgin sample as well. If they can I will get another test kit and send both samples off.


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## vwdrajver (Jul 21, 2004)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

Hi Don.
Finally i'm done with my Espace and 096 gear.
I didn't touch the valve body.
1.	I can still do it without tearing the engine-transmission apart and for me it's quite easy because unlike your tipp 096 has the valve body above the oil pan at the bottom of the transmission.
2.	After a complete teardown of the gearbox i first wanted to know if everything works OK and then complicate some more – so i could find a possible error quicker.
Reassembly was problemless, also the fitting the gear back to the Espace. It was hard for me to wait so long to see the results… and at start (when i passed the 12km/h speed) the service light came on







.
I drove it, and when i accelerated hard, engine lost power – irregulary and many times (for 2-3 sec), also other warning lights came on, and the limp mode of course














.
OK i said, i read the codes and studied the literature. I figured that the loosing power was because the injection computer got the command from the gearbox comp to reduce power (to change gears).
Then the REAL work begun…
Searching for the right wire in the wiring planes……
There was a minus(mass) connection at 5 kOhm to that wire in one connector that was bad.
That problem took me at least 5 hours….
BUT now my face is like














.
So now i've just washed all the dirt and took it for a quick ride.
In the afternoon i'm taking the Espace for a real spin to see the max speed results change - hopefully http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (vwdrajver)*

Hi Blaz,
I'm glad to hear that you have your transmission problems taken care of. Did you test for the wiring problem at the connector for the transmission at the TCU connector. I am still having some shifting problems at part throttle condition. Also I now feel that the Torque converter DTC codes are being reported incorrectly by the TCU. I had my wife drive the car while I monitored the measuring blocks for the Torque converter, everything worked as it should. It seems like I have more work ahead of me to make things perfect.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

Updated pictures added


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## admcs (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

eeech! I'll take a solenoid repair any day on my '93 over that. great info though, thank you for posting! been there....


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## okanagan45 (Feb 19, 2003)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

Do all those solenoids just get sloshed with hydraulic oil at 90-100 deg. Celsius? Sheesh, I'm surprised they last as long as they do.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (okanagan45)*

Yes they are in the hot fluid.


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## manasteel (Jun 16, 2002)

ok i didn't exactly ready the whole thread, but are there part numbers for the parts I needs to do this? 
And also, is there any specific reason worth doing this?
Is there anything faulty with my existing solenoid on my 02.5 1.8t tiptronic? 
As of now, I don't have any problems with my transmission, but I would like it to perform better when roadracing/ autoxing. I already ordered most of the things I need for an ATF change. should I just change these out too? thanks.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (manasteel)*

If your transmission is working okay, you don't need to change anything. I was having some problems with my transmission. I have 197,571 miles on my car already so I am experiencing problems that nobody else will probably ever see. Just change the fluid every 40-50k and tou will be fine.


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## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (coolvdub)*

Bump. I'm very interested in the outcome of those oil samples.


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## RR (Jan 22, 2003)

*Re: (Seanathan)*

I have just now discovered this (auto tranny) forum. WOW! way cool...
coolvdub: How did you come about the info of the different types of solenoids and their function? I would love to have this info for my long-engine Passat tip tranny (01V, I think). Where is this stuff documented? It's not in my Bentley...
- Rusty


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (RR)*

RR,
I got the information from this websitehttps://erwin.volkswagen.de/index.jsp


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## Jetta_1.8Tip (Jun 3, 2001)

*Re: (coolvdub)*

I bought a bunch of info from them (to have my mech buddy study







)
Great info and not too pricey but the whole sealed media thing is kind of a pita. I know why they have to do that but it's still inconvenient


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## RR (Jan 22, 2003)

*Re: (coolvdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *coolvdub* »_RR,
I got the information from this websitehttps://erwin.volkswagen.de/index.jsp

OMG I've hit the motherlode! This is a revelation! I registered and ordered a couple of docs - this is fabulous, thanks a BUNCH! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








You guys just removed a lot of







from my life...










_Modified by RR at 12:53 PM 2-4-2005_


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## Bryan95PassGLXVR6 (Feb 7, 2005)

How were you able to buy individual solenoids? Volkswagen tells me they can't sell individual solenoids.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (Bryan95PassGLXVR6)*

They are available separately, it's just most parts people either don't know or won't tell you. I have got all mine HERE, they are by far the most knowledgeable and cooperative parts people I have dealt with to date. I was also able to buy just the inner CV joint from them instead of the $600 axle assembly every body wanted to sell me.


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## Bryan95PassGLXVR6 (Feb 7, 2005)

Awesome Thanks


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## b_laitinen (Feb 17, 2005)

*Re: (coolvdub)*

gotta question for ya...
my car won't shift from 2nd to 3rd gear...
vag-com 00264 - "solenoid valve 4 (n91) 36-00 Open circuit"
what's wrong / what else do i need to do to diagnose it?
my vw dealer says i need a whole new tranny without even looking at the car "we don't work on transmissions here, we just replace them..."


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (b_laitinen)*

Are you sure about the VAG-COM Code? N91 controls the lockup function of the torque converter. I see now you have a 01M transmission, yours is a 4 speed auto correct? If so I don't have the technical info from Erwin on hand but will look up the info in my Bentley manual later on today. I believe the 01M tranmission is notorious for having a bad wiring harness in the transmission which is easily replaced. 


_Modified by coolvdub at 12:04 PM 2-19-2005_


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (coolvdub)*

Okay I checked the Bentley manual for you and the N91 Solenoid controls the lockup function on the 01M as well. So you have two entirely unrelated problems as near as I can tell. If you can find somebody local to you with a Bentley manual on CD and VAG-COM you can pinpoint the actual problem.


_Modified by coolvdub at 2:38 PM 2-19-2005_


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## RoBeRt_68 (Jun 15, 2002)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

great stuff just wanted to save it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## okanagan45 (Feb 19, 2003)

*Re: (coolvdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *coolvdub* »_ N91 controls the lockup function of the torque converter.yours is a 4 speed auto correct? _Modified by coolvdub at 12:04 PM 2-19-2005_

Although I have the 5 sp tiptronic, curiosity compels me to ask if I have a problem or not. 
Coasting down hill at low rpm's my torque converter locks-up for one second, then releases for five seconds repeatedly, but happens only at low RPM's, in the 4th gear selector setting. Other than that this transmission is a wonderful piece of machinery.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (okanagan45)*

I have a feeling it may be locking and unlocking the TC to regulate your down hill speed, which if I remember correctly is a function of the programming VW has implemented in the TCU. Double check your owners manual in the section that covers the Tiptronic Auto trans, I think that's where I read it. I don't think you have any worries.


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## dodex (Oct 3, 2005)

*solenoid h91 problem*

Hi i like your post about Solenoid Change but you did not write about your problem, what ware you are expiriancing with your transmision except error codes, example my VW Passat is automaticly changing from gear 5 to gear 4 and wont gearup again until i turnoff and on my car, i'm also having code 01192, please answer to my email [email protected], thanks, Doda. PS. also can you tell me prices of those solenoids, thanks again.


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## KookysJetta (Jan 29, 2007)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic 
Great article! I have 97 Jetta with "slow to engage Drive". If you let the car warm-up for 5-10 min. it will engage into drive with no problem. No delay problem at all going from P to reverse. Dealer want $1400 to replace the torque converter. Bad torque converter would not enable the car to go into reverse either. Problem is not T-converter. I think it is a stickey solenoid. Based on this thread, is one of the accessable solenoids the cause of the slow to engage? Which solenoid controls initial Drive mode? No tranny fault codes displayed. Fluid level is correct. Tranny shifts just fine once Drive finally drops in..


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## leanangle69 (Jan 3, 2007)

*I need assistance with my 02 tiptronic...*

Don,
I've been reading this thread, and I think you will probably be the person that I should talk to; although anyone with info will be a saviour as far as I'm concerned. I have an 02 Passat, with the Tiptronic. As perplexing as this has been for me, I still have no solution in sight.
Symptoms:
Regular automatic mode:
1. As the trans shifts from second to third while putting around, it almost feels as if the trans is shifting into third, and then directly into fourth. I know this is not happening, because I count the gears that follow, and sure enough, there are in fact 2 more after the above scenario.
2. While using the "passing gear" from fourth, say in a traffic situation, the trans shifts from fourth to third, and just about every time it does this while on the gas, it feels as it slips and then catches. All the while, it does feel like it's pulling, but doesn't feel just right. It feels like when I let off the gas, it almost improves the "drive" of the transmission, and makes it easier for the trans to engage in the gear.
(Leads me to believe the clutch packs are slipping)
Tiptronic mode:
1. Drive the car sporty, in tiptronic mode, first to second, when second shifts, it's just like the "automatic mode" scenario, only in second. Feels like the trans shifts, but then shifts into third imediately. We know this isn't the case, because it is in a manual shifting mode. I'm scratching my head. It won't do it in any other gear while in tiptronic mode, and if I downshift while in this mode, all is good.
(Can you understand my dilema?)
Don I would love for you to help me understand this problem before my warranty runs out, and point me in the right direction. For that matter, anyone with some helpfull guidance would be a saint.


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## rychas1 (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: I need assistance with my 02 tiptronic... (leanangle69)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif good stuff.


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## Cobra397 (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: I need assistance with my 02 tiptronic... (rychas1)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dputrow (Sep 26, 2007)

IM sent..


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## allout (Apr 11, 2004)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

In terms of the fluid comparing how many miles was put on the tranny to make it that blackish brown color?


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## tdi_uvo (May 18, 2008)

*Re: (coolvdub)*

I am very much interested in getting a replacement wiring harness for my '02 Jetta TDI (01M trans), if this is indeed my problem. The TCC disables after the car has been driven awhile. It had a an OBD-II P0740 DTC stored (TCC solenoid open circuit). I verified the circuit was open, but was able to regain continuity by moving the pigtail coming out of the trans around a bit. I'm hoping this is the problem, but I'm concerned that the solenoid may be going open when it heats up.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (tdi_uvo)*

I'm no expert on the 01M, but that being said. I remember ready about the ribbon cable in the 01M failing fairly regularly.


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## Drago's (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: (tdi_uvo)*

Check this site: http://www.HetzelAuto.com
Best prices.








I am getting the shift solenoids from them - 15$ each. They also have the wiring loom (internal harness) for 89$. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Had some issues with my 01M, slipping in the 4'th, changed the oil, still, removed the valve body, cleaned it, found a clogged shift solenoid, swapped them, problem moved, decided to replace all of them, did not do it yet, because now the tranny performs very well.








Still waiting to get all the parts.
_Modified by Drago's at 6:24 PM 5-22-2008_


_Modified by Drago's at 6:25 PM 5-22-2008_


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## themacman (Jul 12, 2008)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (03Jetta1.8T)*

don
you seem to be the man on vw - i am having a transmisson problem on 2-3-4 shofting - Aamco has it disasembled. 1500 cdn has it disasempbled and put together with new softseals. by reading the stuff on the site i think i nees a new solenoid..... is there a way to test each solenoid???????????? cause they say no . also i believe this all started cause my engine temp sensor needs changing for the second time and maybe my transmission temp sensor...... pricing..from dealer
each solenoid avge= 180 cdn
all 6 solenoid + valve body = 1671.42
i love the car its moded with body kit and H&R lowered....... what should i change keeping in mine i will use it for 4 more yrs
2002 blu jetta 1.8t 130k
please help
should i spend it out for future problems or source the exact problem - is it cause i was slack on the engine light and lost the temp sensor........... light was on for misfire 3-4 months......... now says misfire and temp sensor - nothing on transmission error..... adaptation i think is after fix from most peoples responses on this web site............ please help .......... need to know now cause i have 2 days to deside.............
please help don\


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## themacman (Jul 12, 2008)

*Re: (coolvdub)*

is there a way to test each solenoid?
please help
can a valve body break easy or is it usually a solenoid due to heat damage?


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## Drago's (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: (themacman)*

There is a way to test them. Let me try to find the info.
You can buy a tranny from a guy I know in Toronto, he has a sec hand VW only business. Today I saw two 1.8T trannies for sale in his shop. 

_Modified by Drago's at 7:12 PM 7-14-2008_


_Modified by Drago's at 7:22 PM 7-14-2008_


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (themacman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themacman* »_is there a way to test each solenoid?
please help
can a valve body break easy or is it usually a solenoid due to heat damage?









themacman,
Yes you change the solenoids individually and test each one individually. I think I paid about $100 each U. S. when I replaced mine. If it were me I would have the tranny fixed. As stated earlier, a good use tranny is a very good option. That is what I have in my car now, been in for 86k miles with no problems and I only paid $1100 U. S. for it. Here is a link for the testing values of the solenoids.http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3469274 I hope this helps you out, sorry I didn't see it until now. Good luck and keep us posted. Oh yeah here is where I got my solenoids. Just call them up and tell them what you are looking for.
http://www.1stvwparts.com/


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## brettkramer (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

CoolVDub, Great post and photos, thanks for going to all of the trouble...


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (brettkramer)*

No problem


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
I've been reading your thread and also been doing some researching on the forum about problem with my tranny.
My symptom is usually when engine is cold i.e. tranny is cold too, it will not shift beyond 2nd and will stay there for about 5 minutes until I hear a thump and all is well. 
So my question is, wouldn't it have been easier if you took the tranny off from the car and work on the tranny?
Seems like you have the knowledge to take the whole car apart.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audi10021075* »_Don,
I've been reading your thread and also been doing some researching on the forum about problem with my tranny.
My symptom is usually when engine is cold i.e. tranny is cold too, it will not shift beyond 2nd and will stay there for about 5 minutes until I hear a thump and all is well. 
So my question is, wouldn't it have been easier if you took the tranny off from the car and work on the tranny?
Seems like you have the knowledge to take the whole car apart. 


Your tranny problem is not one I am familiar with. That being said, if it shifts fine after it's warm you may be low on fluid. Do you have VAG-COM so you can scan for error codes? If not, post up in your regional forum looking for somebody local who does.
As far as removing the tranny, it is an absolute pain in the a$$. So it was easier to work on it in the car,even though it is a tight working area.


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

thanks for the reply.
What are the symptoms for overfilling the tranny?


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

Don,
I came across your post in some transmission site, does your car have external filter and additional cooling for your tranny?
I took your advice and has been doing drain and refill with mercon V, but I don't have external filter nor additional cooling.
Do you think I should use synthetic because I don't have what you have?


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audi10021075* »_Don,
I came across your post in some transmission site, does your car have external filter and additional cooling for your tranny?
I took your advice and has been doing drain and refill with mercon V, but I don't have external filter nor additional cooling.
Do you think I should use synthetic because I don't have what you have?

Dave,
The external filter is on my to-do list, but the car doesn't get driven all that much, so it is low on the priority list. I do have an external cooler, I'm sure it helps. I think you will find the semi synthetic Mercon V will be adequate, but if running a full synthetic makes you feel better it sure wouldn't hurt. A full synthetic fluid will handle the heat much better. And I'm a believer in synthetic motor oil. I have run Mobil 1 5W-30 since my first oil change and have over 288k miles on my original engine.


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
I am about to change my solenoid like you did and I have some questions.
Once pan is removed, how difficult or easy was it to remove solenoid?
From the looks of it, it look like two bolt is holding the solenoid.
Second question is about axle being tied down to subframe.
You said dogbone mount has to be removed to get more clearance but wouldn't axle and trany stay in place without being tied down?
dave


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audi10021075* »_Don,
I am about to change my solenoid like you did and I have some questions.
Once pan is removed, how difficult or easy was it to remove solenoid?
* Very easy*
From the looks of it, it look like two bolt is holding the solenoid.
Second question is about axle being tied down to subframe.
You said dogbone mount has to be removed to get more clearance but wouldn't axle and trany stay in place without being tied down?
* You are actually pulling the tranny back to create more clearance*
dave


----------



## c0ntr0lz (Jul 11, 2005)

Just the info I was looking for.
Thanks Don, now to get parts and get to fixin.
I've got a cold trans shift issue.
won't shift out of 1st till the trans is warmed up and then it's fine.


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

I am finally getting the part this weekend.
There are two more question for you Don.
Once battery is removed to work on the car and reconnected later, isn't the TCM reset?(don't have vagcom)
Why the need for car to be leveled?


----------



## Geomeo (Aug 12, 2008)

I have an Audi TT 2003 with a tiptronic. I think it has the same problem. I need to know what the N93 part number is? Your photos show all the rest of the part numbers but this one. I called Audi and they are trying to sell me the entire valve body for 1200.


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*


_Quote, originally posted by *audi10021075* »_I am finally getting the part this weekend.
There are two more question for you Don.
Once battery is removed to work on the car and reconnected later, isn't the TCM reset?(don't have vagcom)
Why the need for car to be leveled?


I'm not sure if reconnecting the battery will reset the TCM.
The car needs to be level to refill the ATF to the proper level, if you carefully measure all the fluid that you remove and put that eaxct amount back in you should be close. I have always used the procedure in the Bently manual and my VAG-COM. So you may do just fine without, just can't answer it confidently if you choose to use another method.


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (Geomeo)*

Geomeo,
I updated the picture to include the part number, but here it is 09A-927-331H.
Double check the part number with your parts person to make sure it is the correct one for your car. If your local parts person can't or won't verify it. I would suggest http://www.1stvwparts.com/ that is where I got all my parts from.










_Modified by coolvdub at 6:40 PM 12-15-2008_


----------



## Geomeo (Aug 12, 2008)

Sorry I meant to say thanks a while ago, but I have a have a pestulant fiancee whom needs a lot of attention. Thanks ever so much for the info!


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: (Geomeo)*

No problem


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
So I finally changed my solenoid (thanks for all the help),
I don't know if you saw my thread but problem persist.
I have couple more question for you,
1. if tranny is in safe mode what gear is it in and how does it come out of safe mode?
2. what is the purpose of multifunction switch?
Thanks again for your help


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

When in safe mode, the tranny stays in 4th if I remember right. If everything is working as it should the tranny should come out of safe mode. The multifunction switch tells the TCM what gear gas been selected via the gearshift selector in the car. Do you have VAG-COM? If so scan the TCM for errors and reset it. If not, try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so and then reconnect it, some say you should also hold the cables together while disconnected for 15 seconds to remove any residual charge. Also posted and Solenoid and electrical test values in your other thread.



_Modified by coolvdub at 6:08 PM 12-25-2008_


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
So could my problem be slow failure of solenoid N93?
Failure of other on/off solenoid would cause tranny to go into emergency mode, so that's not my problem. I had suspected N283 but that didn't solve anything. 
Since my tranny doesn't come out of 1st gear after few minutes of warm up or driven in 1st gear for about a mile and you have suggested maybe low fluid level, N93 is next suspect.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

Dave,
The shifting is controlled by N88,N89 & N92 solenoids. So it would seem the problem would be in one of those. Before you spend any more money, I would try doing the electrical tests on the Solenoids on a completely cold car and then again after the car has warmed up and the shifting is working correctly. If you find a major difference cold to hot, then I would replace another Solenoid. Also I don't think your N93 Solenoid is the problem.I feel your frustration, I spent a lot of time and money to get my tranny working properly. Then it died at 200k. Happy Holidays to you and yours.










_Modified by coolvdub at 9:53 AM 12-26-2008_


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
If one of those solenoid is at fault then wouldn't my tranny go into emergency mode?
How do you check those solenoid without vagcom, I only have multimeter.
Thanks again,


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

Dave,
If the Solenoid fails completely or is out of spec to far, then yes it will put you in emergency mode. The multimeter is exactly the tool you need to do the electrical checks. Pull the TCM connector off the TCM under the rain tray and probe the connector per the thread I referenced in your other thread. You don't need a breakout adapter, just match the numbers on the connector with the material I posted. Also if you end up needing to replace another Solenoid. I would try the website that was referenced in this thread if the Solenoids can really be had for $15 each that's a smokin' price.


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
How do you disconnect connector from tcm?
I don't want to break anything. There are 4 screws on the face of tcm where black connector is attached, I don't think you have to unscrew these.
Special tools maybe?


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

Hi Dave,
If you look at the sides of the connector you can see on one end it has like a pull tab type of thing that is rounded off so you can get your fingers in there. Pull on it in the direction of the connector lengthwise but away from it, it sometimes helps to use a screwdriver in the gap once you start pulling. Then just pull it until it stops and remove the connector.
I would go take a picture for you but my son has the car right now, unfortunately he rolled his car the night before Christmas Eve, so he needs a car to get back and forth to work until the insurance company looks at his car and totals it.
Let me know if you need anything else.










_Modified by coolvdub at 10:51 AM 12-27-2008_


----------



## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
Here are the measurement
test cold hot
N88 16.5 21.1
N89 16.5 21.3
N90 16.5 21.1
N91 12.5 16
N92 16.4 21.2
N93 3.2 3.8
N281 62.6 73.1
N282 16.7 21.1
N283 3.4 4.0
I guess these numbers indicate N281 is the one out of spec.
Shoul I go ahead w/ N281 replacement?
Picture is of socket upside down, so #1 would be bottom right, just to making sure I checked right pin #.










_Modified by audi10021075 at 1:18 PM 12-27-2008_


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

Hi Dave,
Well N281 is way out of spec for sure. I can't say for sure it will fix your problem, but it's sure way out of spec. Seeing as this Solenoid controls brake B3 in gears 1-4 and reverse it very well may solve your problem. I'm no expert on these things, just a novice and figure I can test the components and replace them way cheaper than any mechanic. If it was my car I would roll the dice and replace it. The worst thing that can happen is you are no better off then when you started, but you will have at least gained some knowledge.If it fixes the problem you can pat yourself on the back and feel good you saved thousands of dollars that a dealership would have charged to replace the entire tranny. On a side note if you are using the inexpensive Mercon V fluid you can just dump it and replace with little trauma to the bank account. If OEM fluid and it's new just drain it into a clean container and re-use it.


----------



## phillysteve (May 13, 2007)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (coolvdub)*

IM'd re: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4171976
Thanks!


----------



## asparagii (Jan 5, 2009)

great thread - thx for your efforts to communicate this Don


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## audi10021075 (May 3, 2005)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Don,
After getting solenoid N281 out, I measured the resistance and it was within the spec? I put the new one in anyway, and there was no change.
Did I measured the wrong terminal?
What puzzles me is that when I measured at the terminal end it was high but at the solenoid end it was within the spec!
Any comment from you would be appreciated.
Dave


----------



## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (audi10021075)*

Perhaps there is something wrong with the wiring harness - increasing the resistance?


----------



## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (herb2k)*

What he said ^


----------



## pintail38 (Jan 27, 2009)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE TRANS FILTER IS ON A O9A TIPTRONIC TRANS.


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## pintail38 (Jan 27, 2009)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

DON CAN YOU SEND ME THE THE IFO ON TESTING THE THE SOLENOIDS ON MY O9A TIP THANKS


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## pintail38 (Jan 27, 2009)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (Variety=Spice)*

I PULLED THE SIDE PAN AND NO FILTER JUST GOT CAR SO I DONT KNOW WHATS UP


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (pintail38)*

I will post links to the thread with Solenoid data and also an actual picture of where the filter is Courtesy of Conko who took his 09A apart to fix a reverse problem. The picture of the filter location is in the reverse thread that is in the DIY/FAQ.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4187298
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3469274
Hope this helps


_Modified by coolvdub at 4:09 PM 1-28-2009_


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## alcord (Feb 23, 2009)

Hi coolvdub
I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.0l with 4 speed automatic gearbox. Last week a check engine light came up to my cluster. I put the scanner and I've got P0748 code, so that does mean the failure in N93 solenoid control valve.
I live in Ottawa, Canada since the last week I'm looking for that solenoid. At the VW dealership they want to sell me the valve body, cost $700cnd. Do you know where I can find it?


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## T99inFL (Aug 4, 1999)

*Re: (alcord)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alcord* »_Hi coolvdub
I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.0l with 4 speed automatic gearbox. Last week a check engine light came up to my cluster. I put the scanner and I've got P0748 code, so that does mean the failure in N93 solenoid control valve.
I live in Ottawa, Canada since the last week I'm looking for that solenoid. At the VW dealership they want to sell me the valve body, cost $700cnd. Do you know where I can find it?

http://www.1stvwparts.com. has the N93 for $106+shipping.


_Modified by T99inFL at 9:08 PM 2-24-2009_


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## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (alcord)*

ValveBodyBuilders has the whole valve body for $500 - They're located in Ontario too. I ordered one from them and it fixed up my 01M transmission's hard shifting problems!


----------



## ginplyr (Feb 23, 2009)

*Re: (herb2k)*

I have the shifting problem on my 2001 jetta 01m trans...... 
I’m getting a check engine light with codes p0730 along with P0740 and the EPC light comes off and on every now and then.
I tested resistance on solenoids and got the following results:
EV-1 N88 70.5 ohms EV-2 N89 75.4 ohms EV-3 N90 140ohms
EV-4 N91 6.4 ohms EV-5 N92 114 ohms EV-6 N93 6.5 ohms
EV-7 N9472 ohms TFT Sensor 34.4 *k ohms *
all seem to be a little higher then specs. with the exception of the TFT whick is way lower then the specs and 3 & 5 which are way higher. Any advice would be great? What to do?What can be the problems?


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## alcord (Feb 23, 2009)

Hi everybody
I found at one Transmission shop here in Ottawa a used valve body for $200cnd. The only problem is that the guy doesn't give me any guarantee for it. 
is there any problem if I still driving my car stock with the 3rd gear ?


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## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (alcord)*


_Quote, originally posted by *alcord* »_is there any problem if I still driving my car stock with the 3rd gear ?

You can't go very fast...


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## alcord (Feb 23, 2009)

Finally I fix my Volks, I changed the whole valve body plus some other solenoids. My car runs well and you can feel the difference when it shift the gear. 
Total cost of reparation $125cnd


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## kalelcar (Mar 15, 2009)

always i prefer change the complete valve body


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## photousa (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: (Drago's)*

How much work, beyond what Don has shown us here is it to remove the valve body? When you say you found a clogged shift solenoid, then swapped them, do you mean you swapped them with new ones? Once you had the valve body off, were you able to replace the internal filter? Thanks


----------



## photousa (Dec 31, 2008)

*Re: (herb2k)*

Hi Herb, Did you put the Valvebody in your VW yourself? Do you have a list of any other items that replaced while doing the job? Wiring Harness, ect...Thanks


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## herb2k (Jul 29, 2007)

*Re: (photousa)*


_Quote, originally posted by *photousa* »_Hi Herb, Did you put the Valvebody in your VW yourself? Do you have a list of any other items that replaced while doing the job? Wiring Harness, ect...Thanks

Yes I did - but I have an 01M 4spd, which is really easy to do (disconnect solenoid harness, remove 13 bolts and the manual linkage and it comes right out). The manual linkage has a plunger rod, a replacement came with my valvebody, but I reckon the old one could've been reused. Aside from that, nothing else was swapped out as I didn't have any damage to my wiring harness.
I was looking at the breakdown someone did of their 09A 5spd - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4187298 It looks doable, but after spending some time in my friend's engine bay, her car has the 09A and considering the valve body is side mounted on that transmission you might have more trouble changing that one in-car than I did with my 01M.


_Modified by herb2k at 12:39 AM 3-22-2009_


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## lastresort576 (Mar 24, 2009)

Hey whats going on guys? after reading this thread it seems like these soloniods Maybe my buddies problem whom I am gathering info for.
Here's his issue at hand:
'03 gti tiptronic. The tiptronic function of the trany does not work at all(Ibelieve he broke it driving aggresively.) 'nor does his dash indicator light(maybe a bulb idk). But, the automatic put it in D and go works properly in all gears..
So could this possibly be the issue, him needing to replace the solonoids? I also dont think he has any CEL's, but i maybe incorrect on that one.
Thanks everyone.

**EDIT:







Never mind I just found this thread about the magnets, http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3471001 and that seems to be the issue he has. If anyone would like to confirm this I'd appreciate it.


_Modified by lastresort576 at 3:59 PM 3-24-2009_


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## roberamirez4 (May 30, 2009)

*Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)*

Hi, I am looking for a 09A transmission solenoid, somebady knows where I can get it? I am in Mexico so right here they are expensives. thank you I will be waitting for an answer


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## volksmech1 (Jan 4, 2006)

nice work guys


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## mrianti (Dec 13, 2009)

most helpful thread for trans. issues . 

I had the no cold shift issue and changed the N92 , 

2 months later it started banging hard on the 2 to 3 & 4 to 5 shift on occasion , then a few other odd shift habits. 

I decided then to change all the solenoids ( should have done it in the first place ) 

totally different beast now . 

if one fails the others are soon to follow .  

I now have a new N92 if anyone wants to buy !


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## 03GTIMN (Apr 24, 2011)

*Please Help, Not sure what this part is or how it fits in the 09a Valve Body*

Hello all,

I need help identifying a part (metal bracket) that appears to go on the post where the wiring harness of the 09a valve body bolts onto?... This metal bracket came out while I was changing the 9 solenoids. I am not sure where/how to put it back. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Huy

How do I attach the pictures?


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## 03GTIMN (Apr 24, 2011)

*Figured it out...*



03GTIMN said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I need help identifying a part (metal bracket) that appears to go on the post where the wiring harness of the 09a valve body bolts onto?... This metal bracket came out while I was changing the 9 solenoids. I am not sure where/how to put it back. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Huy
> 
> How do I attach the pictures?


Hi All,

I lost some sleep on this one but I finally figured it out. It goes on the solenoid valve N91 post. It sits on top of the solenoid and curves to the right. Don, thanks for paving the way. I followed your blog and was able swap our all 9 solenoid and it fixed my reverse problem (my car has 126K miles). My reverse gear would not engage when the engine is cold. I would have to wait until the engine is at operating temperature 190 degrees before the reverse gear would engage. If your car is having similar symptoms, it could be attributed to faulty N88, N89, and N92 solenoids. If you are going to replace them, I suggest replacing all nine while you're at it. I purchased the solenoid kit from http://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_945_947_978_987 for $335 which includes all 9 solenoids and the pan gasket. They claimed to be OEM solenoids and are made in Japan with the correct part number. Remember to TAKE YOUR TIME getting the pan out and replacing the solenoids so you don't damage the wiring. Hope this helps the next person doing this job.

-Huy


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## Balomo41 (Apr 2, 2009)

Changed them all 9 solenoids today for a second time but today with a small problem, after I put back the pan and everything else related to taking off the valvebody pan, I scanned the car and to my horror got a code that says" 00258 solenoid valve (N88) short to ground.
and I know there is a black wire that came out of N93 that I put on N88 bolt, can anyone guide me to where that ground wire has to be bolted? I lost its location in the process of taking the valve body out..
Thanks in advance.


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## 03GTIMN (Apr 24, 2011)

*Black wire from the N93...*



Balomo41 said:


> Changed them all 9 solenoids today for a second time but today with a small problem, after I put back the pan and everything else related to taking off the valvebody pan, I scanned the car and to my horror got a code that says" 00258 solenoid valve (N88) short to ground.
> and I know there is a black wire that came out of N93 that I put on N88 bolt, can anyone guide me to where that ground wire has to be bolted? I lost its location in the process of taking the valve body out..
> Thanks in advance.


Hi,

The black wire from the N93 goes on the N91 mounting post.

-Huy


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## enginebay (Jul 27, 2011)

Thanks to Don and his post, I just finished replacing all 9 solenoids in our Jetta with 09a trans. 
The transmission is back to normal. 

The issue was engine rpm spinning towards the redline during accelleration.
Only code showing was "00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor". Dealer and repair shops say new transmission 
is needed. After reading vwvortex forums, decided to do solenoid replacement instead.

A few notes from the process,

- I used compressed air and a stiff brush to clean the area around the transmission before opening it.

- Like Don, I used a ratcheting tie down to pull the transmission rearward. I hooked onto the skidplate 
rather than the CV. Other end hooked to rear cross member.

- The pan was easier to remove if I lie on the ground and put my whole hand into it and used my palm to push 
it towards the front for clearance. My helper wiggled and pushed on the wiring looms from above. I tried 
to keep the vent tube away from the valve body to avoid damage to wires.

- With the pan was off, the red tamperproof seal and refill plug are easily tampered with. Note that 
the fill spout has a metal collar which will resist prying up on plug.

- replaced the 9 solenoids - do-able but not easy because of limited access.

- I assumed that weight of transmssion fluid is fairly constant regardless of temperature,manufacture 
or length of service. Since there was no fluid leak, I wanted to refill with the same amount of fluid 
drained. To accomplish this, I used a digital scale to weight the drained fluid. Be sure to weigh 
the empty drain pan first in order to figure out the net weight. Refilling was easy. Weigh the 
bottle(s) before adding then weigh them again after. The amount added is the difference between 
the 2 weights. BTW I refilled with Mobil 1 Multivehicle fluid. 

I needed the following in addition to regular hand tools. 

- 1 jack stand (I used the factory jack to lift the vehicle)
- 1 ratcheting tiedown strap
- air compressor with blow attachment
- digital scale with at least 10 lb (5 kg) capacity
- 1 cooperative female helper during pan removal/installation.

I am greatful for the info gleened from this forum.

Thanks,
Doug
after dog bone unbolted, trans can be pulled back









pry on outer edge (plastic part) to avoid prying on metal collar.









I used digital scale to determine refill amount.


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## AudiOn19s (Aug 3, 2011)

Can anyone still see the origional pictures?, were they removed or maybe placed in an archive somewhere? 

Maybe my firewall at work is blocking them but I can't see them and need a DIY guide, picturs would be very helpful


----------



## enginebay (Jul 27, 2011)

AudiOn19s said:


> Can anyone still see the origional pictures?, were they removed or maybe placed in an archive somewhere?
> 
> Maybe my firewall at work is blocking them but I can't see them and need a DIY guide, picturs would be very helpful



I can't see Don's pictures either. They were okay a couple of days ago when I referred to them while doing the solenoids on my 09a. The photos are stored on the FOTOTIME site and something has changed there. Don needs to fix it.

Doug.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

They should be working now,sorry guys. I have been sick lately and forgot to renew my Fototime account Sorry for the inconvenience.


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## German Toy (Aug 8, 2011)

*VW jetta Tiptronic*

Im having the same problem , already change the solenoid but still doing the same not running over 20MPH and no codes , is there some way the check the TCM , can TCM : be reprogram ? some help here will be appreciate.

Thanks


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## OldSkulDub (Mar 19, 2008)

I am having rough downshifting from 4th to 3rd especially when really hot outside. When it is cooler outside it shifts pretty smooth. Anyhow I am changing the tranny filter and fluid and since I am going to be in there I wanna change whatever solenoid is most likely the issue and my engine is not throwing codes. I was wondering if this is why you did yours. Thanks. Good pics too. 2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

German Toy said:


> Im having the same problem , already change the solenoid but still doing the same not running over 20MPH and no codes , is there some way the check the TCM , can TCM : be reprogram ? some help here will be appreciate.
> 
> Thanks


You need to give more details and explain what shifting symptoms you see with your Tiptronic. A bad TCM will throw codes. A dealer may be able to reprogram a TCM, but not us.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

OldSkulDub said:


> I am having rough downshifting from 4th to 3rd especially when really hot outside. When it is cooler outside it shifts pretty smooth. Anyhow I am changing the tranny filter and fluid and since I am going to be in there I wanna change whatever solenoid is most likely the issue and my engine is not throwing codes. I was wondering if this is why you did yours. Thanks. Good pics too. 2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000.


General consensus is that if you open a tiptronic for one solenoid, you might as well do all 9. The cost of one is much higher that 1/9 the cost of a set.

You know the tiptronic has to come out of the car and be disassembled to change the filter, right?


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## OldSkulDub (Mar 19, 2008)

Charlie_M said:


> General consensus is that if you open a tiptronic for one solenoid, you might as well do all 9. The cost of one is much higher that 1/9 the cost of a set.
> 
> You know the tiptronic has to come out of the car and be disassembled to change the filter, right?


I did not. I thought I could just drop the pan and change it, no?


----------



## foz405 (Aug 11, 2011)

*Additional information to carry out the job*

Firstly, thanks to Coolvdub for the best post and instructions I have ever seen. Without this detailed pictorial help I would never have felt confident to attempt the job.
I changed solenoid N93 in my Tiptronic on a 2001 V5 Bora today and it works ! So pleased !
(This post comes from Australia if that makes any difference). 
The best place to buy the parts for this is anywhere else except Australia as they are all about 2.5 times as expensive as UK or USA.

1. I had to support the transmission with a floor jack and undo the LHS engine mounts to move the car back a further 3/4" to get better access.

2. Remove the auxillary air pump hose and pump. As my hose had already been chewed up before I purchased the car, I also removed the filter and discarded the hose from the filter to the pump. The dealer tells me all this is of limited value anyway. Removal of the pump will give you much needed access to replace the pan.

3. Ensure you have a helper on site when replacing the pan which you have used the special VW gasket cement on. It goes off quite quickly - about 10 minutes, so you need to work fast without smearing the cement everywhere.

4. The N93 solenoid is a real pig to replace. This is probably the one you are here for as I believe it is the usual culprit. The inner mounting screw can only be moved 1/16 of a turn with a small spanner. Again, patience is a virtue. You will have to remove the main wiring clips to get the wretch out, as well as the solenoid directly above it. This would be just so much easier on the bench when it was assembled ! There are some interesting locating devices on some of the others which can be lost, fall out etc if you are not careful. 

5. You can use Fuchs Titan ATF 3353 (Made in Germany), selling here in Australia at $231 for 20 litres. This compares well with the VW product which the dealer wants $60 a litre for. I'm told they are one and the same oil, as Fuchs supply VW. This means you will have some on hand for your regular oil change.

Thanks again Don for the post. If a 68 year old pensioner like me with no real training can do this, then others can too.

Grahame


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## German Toy (Aug 8, 2011)

*09A Tiptronic vw jetta*

Hi
thanks for the reply, my issue started with the morning thing, letting the car running for 10min then shifting with no problems, until one day just stop shifting even warming the car, changed the solenoids and fluid, never had any code, now don't know what else try just thinking in the TCM. any clues.

Thanks


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## 68ponys (Jun 2, 2008)

*same deal?*

Thanks Doug for the short write up, I think I have the same issue... trans revs (seems like slips into neutral) in 4,5 when I am over 2200 rpm, everything shifts perfect under about 2200 rpm. Dealer said I need a new trans, I want to try the solinoids first and there is some great info here. The generic code thrown is P0730, don't have VAG COM but does this sound like what you had? Thanks a bunch! Andy


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## enginebay (Jul 27, 2011)

68ponys said:


> Thanks Doug for the short write up, I think I have the same issue... trans revs (seems like slips into neutral) in 4,5 when I am over 2200 rpm, everything shifts perfect under about 2200 rpm. Dealer said I need a new trans, I want to try the solinoids first and there is some great info here. The generic code thrown is P0730, don't have VAG COM but does this sound like what you had? Thanks a bunch! Andy


Hi Andy,

Your symptoms sound similar to ours. Auto trans works fine when gently driven. At highway speeds, I would try to accelerate as if to pass a vehicle ahead of me. The RPMs would slowly advance with vehicle speed then at a certain point, start spinning higher. It felt like it was slipping because the extra RPM's were not making the car go faster. Backing off on the throttle allowed the rpm to return to its previous crusing value of < 2000.
The only code showing was a temperature sensor code in the auto trans.

My options were,

- spend 5000 for a new/rebuilt trans (dealer)
- sell car "as is" for about 2-3000
- live with it
- gamble by replacing all solenoids for < 400 (by me)

I went with the last option because many vwvortex'ers have resolved 09a trans problems by replacing solenoids. 
In the past, I've done starters, radiators, timing belts so this task was well within my abilities.
I do not have the advanced expertise/patience required to diagnose which solenoid needed replacing so I did all 9. It was < 400 to buy all 9 as a set.

This procedure took me 3 evenings (about 8 hours total). Once you are in the trans, take note of where the wires go especially around N90,N91,N93. These 3 are the least visible yet the most difficult to replace.

It would be nice if the 4 solenoids above these 3 were out so you could have better access.

N91 Remove this one first. Note: There is a metal clamp thingy on one of the posts. 
N90 remove this one next when N91 is out. Note colors of wires on posts
N93 first need to unclip internal wiring harness above and also unbolt one harness holddown clamp

I need slimmer fingers to start the 3 bolts which hold the wiring looms to the pan.

My solenoid kit came with a new pan gasket so no messy silicone to deal with.

Yes, I had VAG-COM purchased just for this problem. Hooked it up once to see that the only code was
for the temp sensor in the auto trans. After the solenoid fix I have not even reset the codes or done 
that thing for relearning - (sorry can't remember the term).

BTW, I am a 51 year old office worker and only work on my own vehicles. 

Doug


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

enginebay said:


> Hi Andy,
> 
> - gamble by replacing all solenoids for < 400 (by me)
> 
> ...


Nice writeup Doug, but you didn't really mention if it fixed your problem. If it did, how many miles since the fix?


----------



## enginebay (Jul 27, 2011)

Charlie_M said:


> Nice writeup Doug, but you didn't really mention if it fixed your problem. If it did, how many miles since the fix?


Yes, after replacing all 9 solenoids, the transmission is shifting fine and not slipping anymore. I am able to feel each gear change as I brisky accelerate upto the speed limit. We've put on about 500 kms (300 miles) so far. 

Doug


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## kml (Mar 12, 2011)

hi, 
very useful thread.

my car also has morning sickness so it is going in for the solenoid set change this week. Keeping fingers crossed and hope it comes out fine. 

Seat alhambra 2001 1.9tdi w/tiptronic 5 speed. Only 90,000kms/ the problems been there for a couple of months already. 

the gear gets stuck in 2 and after running around for a couple of minutes (warm) will shift normally. The computer check showed a n91 fault and it was cleared and never came back on again ?? Still have the downshift tug from 2 to 1 which you can feel if you are really looking for it. 

will post the result here when the car comes back.


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## Dub_Lex (Aug 26, 2011)

*Adding my 2 cents*

Thank you guys for posting all those helpful information. I need your help/advice with an issue. I replaced both the N92 Solenoid and the TCM in my 2002 gti. Before I did that, the car would have harsh upshifts from 1 to 2 and harsh downshifts from 2 to 1 when cold. Now it upshifts fine but it still downshifts hard from 2 to 1 when cold. After the car warms up then everything is fine. Which solenoid do you recommend changing? thanks


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## kml (Mar 12, 2011)

hi , 

just got the car back earlier in the week and my wife has been driving around for 2 days, I got a chance to drive it today. From cold, no problems in shifting up or down through the gears and there is no jerk on downshift from 2 to 1. 

Hope the problems don't resurface in the future as i intend to continue using the car for another 1-2 years. 

changing the solenoid set seems to have taken care of the problem insofar. 

thanks to all.


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

*09A reverse out*

So I've been reading up on this and a few other threads for 09A issues, as well as NO Reverse issues. The info in these threads is fantastic, and while I don't have a VAG-COM at the moment, I may test the solenoids based on the table CoolAirVW posted. I also appreciate the link to what may be my new VW parts house! With my 1-5 gears working fine, I'm thinking the on/off solenoids won't help with no reverse. The reverse issue started gradually, after warming up and driving forward, I could get it to engage in reverse, even in the 109 degree days this summer, but last month, it finally stopped moving in reverse, at least in the time I gave it to engage (may be 3 min, no sense waiting 20 min ugh!) I'm begininng to think I have drum seal issues???

CoolAirVW, any chance you can tell me which drums service Reverse and a pic of where they are located??? Guess I better look for an 09A overhaul manual. I've replaced the waterpump, EGV, Turbo, set timing on this `02 1.8T, but I'm not sure I have the tools to dig into this one too deep!

Any thoughts???

Again, Great thread. I think I've narrowed down my problem and might be able to avoid senslessly buying solenoids as a process of elimination.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

Look at the bottom of this page http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=24788
for a link to a 09A (aka Jatco 506e, aka Mazda ja5a-el) rebuild manual & update. Mazda version, but applies to VW too (just be sure to order the VW version of the parts you need).

Also, google for "VW SSP #232", and you should find a VW glossy tech brochure that explains the 09a and TCM operation.

Those two should get you going, though I personally haven't done anything beyond changing solenoids (yet, knock on wood).

Good luck


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## stevenr21 (Jun 3, 2011)

panheadjdhess said:


> So I've been reading up on this and a few other threads for 09A issues, as well as NO Reverse issues. The info in these threads is fantastic, and while I don't have a VAG-COM at the moment, I may test the solenoids based on the table CoolAirVW posted. I also appreciate the link to what may be my new VW parts house! With my 1-5 gears working fine, I'm thinking the on/off solenoids won't help with no reverse. The reverse issue started gradually, after warming up and driving forward, I could get it to engage in reverse, even in the 109 degree days this summer, but last month, it finally stopped moving in reverse, at least in the time I gave it to engage (may be 3 min, no sense waiting 20 min ugh!) I'm begininng to think I have drum seal issues???
> 
> CoolAirVW, any chance you can tell me which drums service Reverse and a pic of where they are located??? Guess I better look for an 09A overhaul manual. I've replaced the waterpump, EGV, Turbo, set timing on this `02 1.8T, but I'm not sure I have the tools to dig into this one too deep!
> 
> ...


 It sounds like you have a cracked reverse piston. 

I would do a compression test to confirm. There are some pics of someone already doing this here... 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4187298-09A-reverse-gear-suddenly-problem#3 

You just need to remove the fender liner to get to it. 80 -109 PSI is considered in spec.


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## pedromty (Nov 4, 2011)

*solenoid*

how do you know what soleinoid is to trasmission? how you test it?


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

panheadjdhess said:


> So I've been reading up on this and a few other threads for 09A issues, as well as NO Reverse issues. The info in these threads is fantastic, and while I don't have a VAG-COM at the moment, I may test the solenoids based on the table CoolAirVW posted. I also appreciate the link to what may be my new VW parts house! With my 1-5 gears working fine, I'm thinking the on/off solenoids won't help with no reverse. The reverse issue started gradually, after warming up and driving forward, I could get it to engage in reverse, even in the 109 degree days this summer, but last month, it finally stopped moving in reverse, at least in the time I gave it to engage (may be 3 min, no sense waiting 20 min ugh!) I'm begininng to think I have drum seal issues???
> 
> CoolAirVW, any chance you can tell me which drums service Reverse and a pic of where they are located??? Guess I better look for an 09A overhaul manual. I've replaced the waterpump, EGV, Turbo, set timing on this `02 1.8T, but I'm not sure I have the tools to dig into this one too deep!
> 
> ...


Whoa! Slow down buddy! N90 solenoid sticks and causes no reverse cold. Once it sticks solid you have no reverse period! Take a look at this thread...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=333061


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

CoolAirVw said:


> Whoa! Slow down buddy! N90 solenoid sticks and causes no reverse cold. Once it sticks solid you have no reverse period! Take a look at this thread...
> 
> http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=333061


I get it. Thank you for the PM. I haven't pulled it in the garage yet. Prepping my MKIII Jetta for repaint with LY3D!!! I'll take the N90 route first...maybe I'll spend the cash for VAG-COM SW first.


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## JoePDub (Nov 5, 2011)

Hey guys.. I was having the no reverse when cold and hard shift from 2 to 3 when cold issue. I went ahead and just changed all 9 solenoids last night. Afterwards, when I turned the ignition to "On" the transmission was in safe mode. I checked the error codes and had one for N88 and N282. So I cleared the codes, turned the car off and then started the engine. I now only get an error for N88. I tried erasing the code several times, but it keeps coming back. Is there anything special that I need to do to get the new solenoids to play nice with the TCU?? I tried to set the basic settings, but I am using a V-Checker Pro and couldn't figure out exactly how to do it. I'm unable to check the resistance of N88 at the harness to verify that its not actually a bad solenoid...I can't get that connector off the TCU.

Reverse does engage right away, which surprises me because N88 is one of the valves used for reverse.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Joe


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## bouki7788 (Nov 22, 2011)

*Need help Don*

Hi, I got some problem with the transmission. It didn't shift from 4th gear to 5th gear. engine light and ASR light on. throw out P1780 code. use vag-com check, it is engine torque Signal. Is that possible to be N92 and N282 problem? Thank you.
Toni


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## cbow1231 (Feb 7, 2012)

*05 09A same issue*



KookysJetta said:


> Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic
> Great article! I have 97 Jetta with "slow to engage Drive". If you let the car warm-up for 5-10 min. it will engage into drive with no problem. No delay problem at all going from P to reverse. Dealer want $1400 to replace the torque converter. Bad torque converter would not enable the car to go into reverse either. Problem is not T-converter. I think it is a stickey solenoid. Based on this thread, is one of the accessable solenoids the cause of the slow to engage? Which solenoid controls initial Drive mode? No tranny fault codes displayed. Fluid level is correct. Tranny shifts just fine once Drive finally drops in..


Did you ever get this resolved. My 05 Jetta has been doing the same thing and I have installed all new solinoids with the problem still there? I haved 140,000 great miles thus far


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## hunkar.jan (Mar 10, 2012)

*oil change in 5 speed tiptronic auto gbox*

Hi all, I would like to ask you, if somebody knows where can i find strainer(filter) in this gbox and how to check corect level of oil in gbox after change? If somebody has got pictures that will be the best. 
My gbox has got 92000miles and i think that nobody didnt change that, so i would like to do that.

Thank you so much


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

hunkar.jan said:


> Hi all, I would like to ask you, if somebody knows where can i find strainer(filter) in this gbox and how to check corect level of oil in gbox after change? If somebody has got pictures that will be the best.
> My gbox has got 92000miles and i think that nobody didnt change that, so i would like to do that.
> 
> Thank you so much


The 09A must be removed from the car and split to get at the filter!

Fluid change howto is linked in the FAQ post, and points here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1093467


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## hunkar.jan (Mar 10, 2012)

Charlie_M said:


> The 09A must be removed from the car and split to get at the filter!
> 
> Fluid change howto is linked in the FAQ post, and points here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1093467


ohh nooo :banghead:
Thank you so much, do you have some pictures? Is any chance to find them somewhere? Thanks


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

hunkar.jan said:


> ohh nooo :banghead:
> Thank you so much, do you have some pictures? Is any chance to find them somewhere? Thanks


The filter is quite large and normally does not need to be changed. You can see some pictures of it in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4187298


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## hunkar.jan (Mar 10, 2012)

Charlie_M said:


> The filter is quite large and normally does not need to be changed. You can see some pictures of it in this thread:
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4187298


Thank you so much Charlie, the thing is i have 92000miles on clock and gbox is working honestly fine, i just wanted to change oil and i know there is filter and normaly when im changing oil in engine, i have to oil filter as well... thats why i was looking for it. But if its not nessesary to chang that oil filter in gbox, i will do just oil, and when i need to do something more with gbox i can take it out. Can i ask you what about clutch, when it must be normaly changed? Thank you so much Charlie


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## davewg112 (Mar 17, 2012)

*Replacing N92 Solenoid?*

Is the process the same to replace the N92 solenoid as it is with the solenoids in the walk through posted by coolvdub?? 

I'm about to tackle this...I've got the N92 solenoid (won't shift out of first/second gears when cold...but runs fine when warmed up) and I have the fluid ready to do it. I have a 2003 VW GTI 1.8T...Love the car but it's so hard and expensive to do any work on. I'm hoping I can do this. Awesome forum everyone!


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

davewg112 said:


> Is the process the same to replace the N92 solenoid as it is with the solenoids in the walk through posted by coolvdub??
> 
> I'm about to tackle this...I've got the N92 solenoid (won't shift out of first/second gears when cold...but runs fine when warmed up) and I have the fluid ready to do it. I have a 2003 VW GTI 1.8T...Love the car but it's so hard and expensive to do any work on. I'm hoping I can do this. Awesome forum everyone!


 

Yes, very similar


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## rjsuryan (Jan 20, 2003)

*Thanks Coolvdub*

Just changed all 9 solenoids, cured my 2nd to 3rd gear morning sickness. It's people like you that make the forum rock :laugh: :thumbup:


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

rjsuryan said:


> Just changed all 9 solenoids, cured my 2nd to 3rd gear morning sickness. It's people like you that make the forum rock :laugh: :thumbup:


Just changed all 9 solenoids today, and cured no-reverse when cold. This is definitely a great resource.


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## Slick Tricks (Mar 9, 2012)

Yeah, X a bajillion on the awesome thread here. 

I am planning on doing this pretty soon here, Did everyone order their solenoids from Cobra? 

if not, where? I am looking at ~400.00 for the pack of them. (to hell with diagnosing, I want to replace them all)

To those that have done this: can someone with minor exp (changed brakes, axle, ball joint, oil, etc. )himself tackle this? I have a great local community of Vdubbers who may be willing to help. 

Thanks


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## Knobby44 (Feb 1, 2011)

The only thing I found that was an issue was the one fastener, that was a nut instead of a bolt. I ended up accidentally pushing it in the hole and had to use a strong magnet with another bolt to fish it out of the hole and use a small screwdriver into the threads to hold it in place while putting the solenoid and nut back in place. See the attached image I marked up from the first page.


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## panheadjdhess (Oct 18, 2008)

*tip*

I caved. I'm having Dub Squared in Arlington TX do a 5 speed swap. Tired of electronic valves controling my movement. Back to the basics and a manual tranny.


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## treblarefils (Mar 4, 2012)

I was having the no upshift when cold on a 2002 AWP GTI 09a. I was just going to replace only the N92 but found the kit on ebay for 330$ for all 9...My problem seems to have been fixed. Thank you for this great information helped me a lot.


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

panheadjdhess said:


> I caved. I'm having Dub Squared in Arlington TX do a 5 speed swap. Tired of electronic valves controling my movement. Back to the basics and a manual tranny.


Don't feel bad, and post back with how it goes (maybe in a new thread)

But it will be hard to get away from electronics, what with the injectors, MAF, MAP, crank & cam position sensors, ECU controlled timing & fuel, O2 sensor, throttle & throttle body DBW, .... :laugh:


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## William Cockerham (Apr 10, 2011)

*Done*

Great post, this was a easy fix it took me about 3 hours to change these out I actually bought all of the solenoids off of ebay for about 380. I just did not want to take the chance that it was another one besides the N92, the car runs great now. Will reply in a couple weeks to give an update if this was a sure fix.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

*Bad tranny or just morning sickness?*

2002 GTI 1.8T with 09A tip will not downshift or upshift into 3rd or 4th (in both auto and tip mode) until reaching normal operating temp. No codes on vagcom. Once it's warm then it shifts normally _except_ for the intermittent harsh shift between 2nd and 3rd after city driving for 1/2 an hour.
I've drained and refilled with new ATF 3 times in the past 5K. After the last change I added 500ml and that did nothing to change the symptoms. I added a second 500ml with no change in the shifting problems. 
I then added _another_ 500ml for a total of 1500ml extra and got these 2 codes. See Auto Scan below. 

With these codes there was still no change in the shifting or the shifting problem. I drained out the extra 1500ml and cleared the codes. Codes did not return and there was still no change in the shifting.

I want to change all 9 solenoids but I am concerned that this is a mechanical problem because there are no auto trans codes (with normal volume of AFT.)


I will include a full autoscan with the tip overfilled (with 1.5L extra for a total of 4L) of ATF. There are no codes now:

Thursday,10,May,2012,01:53:22:50964
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3
Data version: 20120401



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76

VIN: 9BWDE61J224032771 Mileage: 203210km/126268miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 HF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0005
Coding: 07550
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 69D7BC661362C31
9BWDE61J224032771 VWZ7Z0A4105809

1 Fault Found:
18032 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
P1624 - 35-00 -
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09A-927-750.lbl
Part No: 09A 927 750 T
Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0162
VCID: 3C7935322C70869

1 Fault Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 K
Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0021505
Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 32651B0AAE34409

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
Component: 08 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004
Coding: 12344
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 3A75332A2644B89

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 906 N
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V06
Coding: 07234
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 336B1E0E012E491
9BWDE61J224032771 VWZ7Z0A4105809

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway KCAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: F0E15102B0B8B29

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1J Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00064
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 37732A1E1556A51

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0002

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180
Component: Radio NP2 0005
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: DDBF18B6572A2F1

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

Your overfull fluid isnt the cause of the 00652 code. The solenoids sticking probably is. Some of them trigger the code others dont (read this thread to verify what I'm saying here)

You basically got 2 choices... change solenoids or replace trans.... If your car were here I'd recommend trying solenoids.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

I'll be ordering the 9 pack from cobra transmission then.

Are speed sensor or multifunction switch failures ever the cause of the tiptronic being stuck in 2nd when cold?


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## Charlie_M (Mar 23, 2011)

grubyuppie said:


> Are speed sensor or multifunction switch failures ever the cause of the tiptronic being stuck in 2nd when cold?


Almost certainly not, and I only added 'almost' because I never say never ...


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## TurboGirl86 (Jun 25, 2012)

*Tools?*

What tools do you need to do the solenoid replacement on the 2002 Jetta 1.8t tiptronic? Sorry if I overlooked it elsewhere in the posts, and THANK you for any help


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## enginebay (Jul 27, 2011)

I did the solenoids on a 2003 Jetta 1.8t. You just need the common tools that you already have such as 3/8 drive set with metric short/long sockets in both 12pt/6pt. set of box/open end wrenches. A racheting tie down strap for pulling the engine/tranny rearward. A long neck funnel. I think the only challenge is the ability to work in cramped area with limited visibility. A telescopic mirror and flashlight came in handy.


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## Bagster (Jul 17, 2012)

Great info on the solenoid replacement going to attemp mine next week. My GTI 2002 tiptonic wont shift from 1st to 2nd when its cold. warm it up and she shifts fine. What is the 1st to 2nd solenoid? Thanks Bill


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

N92.

usually its best to change them as a set because many of them have common sticking problems.


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## orangea2vr6 (Jan 25, 2001)

Did mine a couple of weeks ago everything went smooth I removed the bumper and bolts from the rad support and just moved it forward a couple of inches gave me plenty of room plus with the bumper off I didn't even have to jack the car up.


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## OnePutt (Jun 7, 2010)

*Black RTV seal between transmission case and valve body cover*

So i am replacing all solenoids in my 09A to try to fix a shifting issue and ran into a stop. I was having a real tough time getting the valve body cover off. I removed all 20 bolts and what not. I looked into one of the threaded holes and I can see RTV/silicon seal between the valve body cover and the transmission case. Does VW use silicon seal here or do you think the previous owner pulled the cover off at some point...possibly to fix the same shifting issue I am running into.

Any tips on getting that valve body cover off?

Thanks for all the information on this thread...I've learned alot even if this doesn't fix my shifting problem.


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## orangea2vr6 (Jan 25, 2001)

I honestly cant remember but I know there wasn't a gasket so it must have been some rtv on it.


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## Phantoj (Apr 1, 2003)

It's probably RTV'ed on. You're supposed to break a RTV'ed cover free by whacking on it with a rubber mallet, but I have no idea how or why that's supposed to work. 

I pried slowly and gently around the edge with a big screwdriver until it let loose (shh, don't tell anyone, as this is not the recommended procedure). This was on a Mazda MPV, also a JF506e transmission. Note that there is a gasket available for the JF506e...


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## OneGoodSmack (Jul 3, 2012)

alright im havin a issue when the car is cold reverse doesnt engage and feels like neutral, but after its warm reverse works ffine, or sometimes if i go to drive then park then reverse it sometimes kicks in? Have had many people telling me its the filter and many telling me its a shift solenoid, need some help this is my first car, and have only had it for aa month


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## afg (Aug 11, 2012)

Does anyone know where this piece goes? After I opened the solenoid box, I found this and I don't know where it goes.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

afg said:


> Does anyone know where this piece goes? After I opened the solenoid box, I found this and I don't know where it goes.


 Looks like a mount or something for one of the solenoids. 



orangea2vr6 said:


> Did mine a couple of weeks ago everything went smooth I removed the bumper and bolts from the rad support and just moved it forward a couple of inches gave me plenty of room plus with the bumper off I didn't even have to jack the car up.


 I may try this approach when I replace my solenoids. I'll probably get the kit sometime this week, though I'm weighing what should take priority -- replacing the solenoids or replacing my PCV hoses (they've crumbled and are now non-existant). I can't afford both right now.


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## DogDaddy (Jul 5, 2006)

*09A Question on Solenoid replacement*

I have gained a little confidence reading this thread, just want to see if anyone thinks I am headed in the right direction... 

I have a 2002 VR6 Jetta, 2.8 Auto-triptronic 
Japco JP JC7 09A 321 107A 

Problem: On numerous occasions, it will go into safe mode, not shift out of 3rd according to the dash, feels like 2nd. Sometimes I can drive a little while and it frees up and and drives normal, do denotes a little hard shifting. 

Pulled VAG code: 
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09A-927-750.lbl 
Part No: 09A 927 750 L 
Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0192 

1 Fault Found: 
00652 - Gear Monitoring 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 

Sounds like the replacement of the solenoids will fix the problem-am I right in thinking this?, would rather do all at once.. 

Does anyone have the set# if I buy from CobraTrans? They are down to 319 a set.. 
Does it include a gasket? 

What is the dog bone? 

Thanks again for this great thread.


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## ronronron (Sep 22, 2012)

just joined this forum so i could say thanks for this, i fixed my daughters mk 4 golf with the 09a gearbox, i changed n88 n89 and n92 i got them from vw, it cost me £225.00 + £40. 0 for new atf. 

i coppied this thread and shes now mobile again. thanks to everybody here and everywhere else on this forum. thanks thanks thanks. saved her £1000s of pounds.


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## AzViper (Aug 25, 2012)

Due to this thread being started 8 years ago. I thought I would attach my thread as there has been some updates to what ATF can be used and different approaches to getting to the valve body. I have posted many photos as well as there being a sequence to the order of which the solenoids being replaced. 

I think one of the key items is getting the power steering line out of the way that sits in front of the transmission valve body cover. Once this is out of the way its very easy to access the valve body. On another note I would recomend that you remove (3 bolts) the dogbone rear mount found on the bottom of the tranny and pull the entire engine and tranny back a few inches, but do not pull from the CV joint but rather pull from a mount thats on the tranny. Check out my photos. Also I was able to gain access without removing the wheel and wheel and front fender liner.    

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...To-Change-Solenoids-Large-Photo-Of-Valve-Body


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

afg said:


> Does anyone know where this piece goes? After I opened the solenoid box, I found this and I don't know where it goes.


 It goes on the bolt for the N91 soleonid along with a ground wire. Its there to hold a small pipe in place, to prevent the pipe from backing out. You cant see the pipe with the n91 solenoid bolted in. 

Take a look at the VB pic in the following link. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Valve-Body&p=78912191&viewfull=1#post78912191 

The pipe is mostly blocked by the "black" portion of the n91 solenoid. YOu can just see part of the pipe to the right of the black portion. You can just barely see part of the bracket to the left of the black portion.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

Doing the solenoid swap this very moment. 

I took an alternate route by removing the bumper. I haven't had to jack up the car, remove any tires, and I didn't even have to remove the shift linkage. I've got all but one of the valve cover screws removed (on the left side). I haven't removed it because I have not drained the transmission fluid yet. With that said, if I don't drain the fluid, will all ~4 L come gushing out from the valve cover or just the little bit that coolvdub mentioned? 



> Next remove the pan that covers the valve body. I placed a drain pan under it to catch fluid. Suprisingly, very little fluid came out when removing the pan. Just a small bathroom size dixie cups amount of fluid came out.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

I've done this project twice but I always drained the fluid first so I don't know how much will be in the pain if you don't drain it. Please report back if you don't drain it. 

Did removing the bumper help at all. I found that the hardest part of the project was that the wiring harness and tranny fluid lines were too close to the pan. It seems like even if I took off the front clip and radiator that I still would have been fighting the metal lines and wire looms.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks for the quick reply! 

I planned on changing the ATF fluid anyway, but my drain pan is in the trunk, which won't open with the battery disconnected.  I'll pick up another 8-quart dish pan from the Dollar Tree (best $1 drain pan ever) in a bit when I head out to see my wife on her dinner break. For the record, I'll likely replace it with Valvoline Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic. That's what I've been using and it seems to be working well. 

As for the wiring and fluid lines, I agree that they're a pain! I spent more time getting those out of the way than anything else. 

And doing the solenoid change by removing the bumper is, in my amateur opinion, the best way of doing it. Keep in mind, this is the first time I've ever done this and that I am, at this very moment, in the process. So far, though, it's been a breeze. 

I initially started to change the timing belt, but when I read in the DIY that I've got to jack up the car (not comfortable doing that on my sloped driveway), I decided to do the solenoid swap instead.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

What benefits did you enjoy from taking the bumper off? Did you have more room under the car?


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

grubyuppie said:


> What benefits did you enjoy from taking the bumper off? Did you have more room under the car?


 For me, the biggest benefit was not having to jack up the car. As I mentioned a few posts up, my driveway is slightly sloped. As such, I don't feel very comfortable jacking up the car and getting underneath it, so if there's anything I can do to NOT have to jack up the car, I'll do it. 

That being said, it's only logical that the bumper method leaves you with LESS room under the car than putting the car on stands and doing the procedure, but in what little experience I've gathered today, there is still plenty of room _underneath_ to do what you've got to do. It's room in front of the valve cover that makes the difference.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

That makes sense to take the bumper off. I may try that when I do my VB project.


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

I've done the solenoids on two different cars now. First one with bumper on, second one with front unbolted and moved forward. 

It look me a lot less time for the entire job the second time, even considering I had to remove the bumper. It makes the job much much easier.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

How easy is it to remove the bumper. I'm worried that I may not be able to get it back on perfectly.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

OK, so I've got the new solenoids in, BUT the white connector wire to the N281 solenoid got caught behind a screw as I was tightening it. It crushed the insulation a bit and I think it may have cut through to the wire. Wire is intact, just not the insulation. What can I do to fix it without removing the entire wire harness? 

*UPDATE:* I put a little dab of super glue (Gorilla brand) around the crushed area. I'd like to get some heat shrink tubing around the area as well, but I don't know how to remove the connector. 





grubyuppie said:


> How easy is it to remove the bumper. I'm worried that I may not be able to get it back on perfectly.


 VERY easy. 4 screws in each wheel well, two at the bottom, 3 or 4 above the grill. Once those are out, just pull the whole thing forward.


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## grubyuppie (Jan 9, 2012)

I wouldn't put anything on the wire that could potentially end up in the valve body. I recommend taking the solenoid out and inspecting the wire. If the wires not exposed then put it back it.


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## tjjoiner (Jul 25, 2012)

*Another Success!*



grubyuppie said:


> I wouldn't put anything on the wire that could potentially end up in the valve body. I recommend taking the solenoid out and inspecting the wire. If the wires not exposed then put it back it.


 I noticed that the metal terminal in the connector at the end of the wire is exposed. With that in mind, I decided it would be OK if the wire is exposed, reassembled everything, poured in the ATF, and went to Walmart with my wife. Shifts like a dream! :thumbup:


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## Ubervier (Nov 4, 2012)

I just swapped out all solenoids on my 05 GLI with 120k miles. It was having classic symptoms: no reverse when cold (that was gradually getting worse), slow to upshift to 4th, harsh downshifts sometimes. 
Got my kit from ebay for $309 with free shipping, that was the cheapest price I've found. It took me about 8 hours all said and done, with lots of time doing other side projects such as cleaning wheel wells, vacuuming around the battery tray, etc. 
I'm very proud of completing the job, and it works great now! Very happy to have this community and links to great resources.


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## scout373 (Aug 28, 2010)

*Great info*

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I changed all the solenoids today and the cold start problem is gone. The info about this issue on this site was invaluable. One helpful tip is that this was so much easier to do by removing the front bumper, radiator support, and the radiator. That allows easy access to the transmission pan and the solenoids. The front clip is easy to remove. The deer I hit this year taught me that. Again, thanks for all the great info.


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## concreteman (Dec 30, 2012)

CoolAirVw said:


> It goes on the bolt for the N91 soleonid along with a ground wire. Its there to hold a small pipe in place, to prevent the pipe from backing out. You cant see the pipe with the n91 solenoid bolted in.
> 
> Take a look at the VB pic in the following link.
> 
> ...


wish i would have seen this post this morning! I thought I covered all my bases, and thanks to those who have posted all the information related to the solenoid change, it is wonderful. I followed all the tips and everything went pretty good. However, this little item in the picture dropped off, and I knew where it dropped off from, but I couldnt make sense of any direction i placed it, so (ducking my head) I left it off....the good news is I finished the job, my reverse engaged immediately (main problem) and the trip home on street and freeway was perfect. So now I have to ask, what happens since I didnt put the little item back on? Also whomever said getting solenoid n93 out was right, that bolt on the right was whore of the nation! Anyhow Id appreciate your comment on my error, and once again thanks for the info, it was perfect.

C-man


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## concreteman (Dec 30, 2012)

I was hoping to get a reply, but ....anyhow I redid the job the following weekend, and put in Amsoil atf, as well as did a motor oil change with Amsoil as well. My Jetta is running tops now, and my mileage is higher, shift points consistent and smooth, downshifts are normal, just fantastic. Big thanks to those who contributed, it is some really good info.

C-man


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## 02blueglx (Jan 14, 2013)

I attempted to change out the N92 on my 02 jetta glx with 09a and the bolt for the solenoid got pushed back into the valve body. I tried getting it out with a magnet and tape with no sucess. Any suggestions? It there anything I need to realign if I remove the valve body to get the bolt back?


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

02blueglx said:


> I attempted to change out the N92 on my 02 jetta glx with 09a and the bolt for the solenoid got pushed back into the valve body. I tried getting it out with a magnet and tape with no sucess. Any suggestions? It there anything I need to realign if I remove the valve body to get the bolt back?


Use a large screw to hold the solenoid in place instead of shaft/nut. I've seen it done.


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## bob99 (Feb 17, 2013)

*snap!............. oh #*%%!*

My 03 1.8t has fully recovered from its cold morning sickness with a full set of solenoids installed yesterday. Thanks to all in this nearly 10 year old thread! In the early solenoid swaps, not so much mention of wiring harness problems....now that these 09a's are 10 plus years on the road it takes a surgeons hand to avoid cracking one of the plastic clips on the solenoid harness. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Yes.. I assembled it anyway after the plastic crumbled off one of the clips. I've ordered a replacement internal solenoid harness from Cobra Transmissions and want to throw a question out there regarding the installation of a solenoid harness. 
I did not pull out the harness completely during the install and was wondering if it attaches to the controller via the single plug that's located next to the upper valve body inside the tranny. Is it really that simple?
Are there any words of caution regarding the locks on that plug!? Any advice will be appreciated.


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## bob99 (Feb 17, 2013)

*snap!............. oh #*%%!*

My 03 1.8t has fully recovered from its cold morning sickness with a full set of solenoids installed yesterday. Thanks to all in this nearly 10 year old thread! In the early solenoid swaps, not so much mention of wiring harness problems....now that these 09a's are 10 plus years on the road it takes a surgeons hand to avoid cracking one of the plastic clips on the solenoid harness. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Yes.. I assembled it anyway after the plastic crumbled off one of the clips. I've ordered a replacement internal solenoid harness from Cobra Transmissions and want to throw a question out there regarding the installation of a solenoid harness. 
I did not pull out the harness completely during the install and was wondering if it attaches to the controller via the single plug that's located next to the upper valve body inside the tranny. Is it really that simple?
Are there any words of caution regarding the locks on that plug!? Any advice will be appreciated.


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## WannaCorrado (Apr 30, 2000)

the metal connections still bite nicely onto the solenoids without plastic that falls apart. I never bother replacing the harness just because the connectors have lost the plastic..


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## bob99 (Feb 17, 2013)

Your correct..most of the plastic clips are not really needed. Unfortunately, the one that broke is not a double safety clip. Its the black one in the center that has only the plastic to keep it on. No hole in the metal tab or anything. ......so if your lucky enough to break this one its' either zip ties or a new harness


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## bob99 (Feb 17, 2013)

So. Has anyone ever installed an 09a solenoid wiring harness?
I was wondering if it plugs in simply and controls only the solenoids.


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## carfreak01 (Jun 13, 2009)

bob99 said:


> So. Has anyone ever installed an 09a solenoid wiring harness?
> I was wondering if it plugs in simply and controls only the solenoids.


the solenoid wire harness is only for the solenoids, it plugs to the round connector that's on the side of the VB case. Also, the speed sensors and temp sensor harness plugs to the round connector too. There are no tricks to chaage it, just be careful to plug all the wire on their correct solenoid.


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## bob99 (Feb 17, 2013)

Good news, thanks.
Bob


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## silver18 (Feb 20, 2013)

*Replaced all 9 solenoids, now 3rd gear slips*

Got this car from auto auction as run and drive. Turned out not so true. Drove only in 1st gear. Thanks to this 10yr old thread and some dedicated people here, replaced all 9 solenoids with no problems, except N92 bolt that felt inside, but that wasn't too bad of a fix. Got it easily out. Bigger problem now is that my jetta shifts out of 1st to 2nd nice and smooth, but no 3rd... instead it feels like it's in neutral. The RPMs go little bit up to maybe 2.5k almost trying to catch 3rd gear but no luck. No idea what my next step is. BTW, i did remove bumper cover and support on one side, that made really accesible and didnt have any problems with pan at all.


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## Hogi (Mar 14, 2013)

*A very big thank you from the uk!*

As title reads thanks to this fantastic forum my 2003 Bora tdi tiptronic is up and running again!
I had the dreaded morning sickness where she simply would not shift out of 1st gear until the fluid warmed up!
I removed n92 solenoid and tested it with a airline and couldn't get it to open at all. Couldn't really source any parts locally so ended up at main dealer £77.50 delivered next day. Fitted in 2 mins and all is well she shifts perfectly now hot or cold and I couldn't have done it without you guys! 
All in all the job took me 3hrs to complete I managed to do it without moving the trans or engine back the only real snag was the steel powerstearing pipe which once the 3 sercuring bolts were removed pulled down and under the trans to gain better access!
if anybody in the uk is struggling please get in touch I'm happy to talk you through it! 
Cheers guys


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## 04'GTI (Mar 2, 2007)

Hey guys, 
I first noticed an issue with my Tip gradually until it started happening everytime. I get shift shock once i throw it into drive and when shifting from 1,2,3 etc in both modes, car is throwing a p0778 fault which is Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Electrical, does anyone know which solenoid this is? Ive been reading through treads but unable to pinpoint which 1 this is...any help appreciated


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

04'GTI said:


> Hey guys,
> I first noticed an issue with my Tip gradually until it started happening everytime. I get shift shock once i throw it into drive and when shifting from 1,2,3 etc in both modes, car is throwing a p0778 fault which is Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Electrical, does anyone know which solenoid this is? Ive been reading through treads but unable to pinpoint which 1 this is...any help appreciated


I answered this in the other post you made asking the exact same question.


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## 8000+ (Sep 26, 2013)

Dear Folks all around the globe!

Long story short: I had morning 2nd to not wanting to shift to third sicness. I was desperate. Change the oil 4 times and almost craked my skull open. After following this and simiral threads I decided to change the solenoids myself.

Cobratransmission is the way to go. 

I didn t have the jack stand so I just parked the car on the curb which gave me extra 4 in hight clearance. Removing the pan is pain in the ass but nothing compared to changing the solenoids from where I was standing (lying)  

I worked my thumbs up to change them. I paid extra caution not to push the bolt without the nut in the gearcase. I changed them all but the last one. Decided to have a smoke before the end. After finishing my smoke I just wanted to verify the position of the last (first) solenoid (right high side). I used the old and..... pressed the nutless bolt all the way in!!! OMG panic attack. After visiting the autozone and couple of other shops for the appropriate tiny magnet I was mentally ill. Of course I didn t manage to pull it out    I sent my wife to autozone the XXX time and she bought me JB KWIK weld. I applied it on the bolt avilable and after frustrating 60 min wait the fxxcker was out .... aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh what a relieve.

I put the pan back on screwed the bolts but after had an oil leak. I didn t not clean it enough with alcholoh I guess... So back on it. Pan down, sealent back on and hand tight the bolts only.

FIngers were literally shot at this point 

This morning I put the oil in and drove. Smoooooooooooootttttthhhhhhh shifting!

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS, MOTIVATION AND KNOWLEDGE!!!!

I am very very garteful for the input! This community rocks!!!

Oh yeah, and the car is 2001 GOLF GTI 1.8T

So leasons learned for DIYs:

1. You don t need a mechanic s shop to do it
2. PS remove all the way down to clear the pan
3. use extra caution when unpinning the solenoids
4. B VARY ABOUT THE NUTLESS BOLT!!!!!
5. take your time and clean the pan and gearcase throughly
6. hand tight the pan bolts
7. put the oil in after at least 10 hrs of gaskets curing time
8. THANK, DRINK and ENJOY your masterpiece of German engineering!

My 2 cents I owe to community!


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## odlide (Sep 27, 2013)

*Successful N92 Swap?*

Just wanted to say thank you to Coolvdub and others for this form. I just finished changing the N92 solenoid and have made two successful test drives. Like 8000+ above me, I can maybe add a few details about my experience that might help a novice like myself.

-I was able to reuse the filler cap (not the red tamper seal), the drain plug and washer, and the level check plug.

-Removing the gearshift linkage was not as dramatic as I thought it was going to be.

-I did not remove the 'dog bone' but still had enough room to work. Admittedly, it would have been nice to have a little more room. Also, I only replace the N92 solenoid which is on the top corner of the transmission. I am pretty sure I could have gotten to the rest of them but it might have gotten a little trickier.

-I did not put the car on jacks or ramps (doing repairs in my condo's garage is a no no...didn't want to attract anymore attention than I had to). You'll had to get a little creative with how to reach various components but it can be done.

-I unbolted the powersteering hardline (which is in front of the pan) in three places and pulled it down and back out of the way.

-In order to reach the three bolts attaching the wiring bracket to the front of the pan, I had to unplug a wiring harness blocking two of the bolts. There was also another wiring harness plug on the bottom side but more toward the center that I unplugged to help give a little more room getting the pan out (I didn't figure this out until I was trying to slip the pan out of the bottom of the car).

-After unscrewing the 20 bolts holding the pan on, the pan was still being held tightly in place by the factory sealant. I used a small metal putty knife and hammer to pry the pan loose. This took some time and courage because I didn't want to ruin the pan. It worked out pretty well.

-I didn't experience the same problem others have had with the solenoid bolt slipping into the case. It felt pretty firm but I also didn't put too much pressure on it. Just be aware that it can happen and you should be ok.

-I did however break the plastic clip on the internal wiring harness going to the N92 solenoid. It was very brittle and just broke apart while trying to unhook it. I think I was pushing on the wrong side of the clip. The actual tab is located on the backside of the clip - I was pushing on the front side. The wire connect felt pretty firm without the clip and I am hoping it won't cause a problem in the future. 

-I don't really know anything about sealant so I ordered a gasket (cork?) from cobra transmission along with the solenoid. Also, if I go back in to change the other solenoids I figured it would be easier to remove. I picked off the old loose sealant from the pan and the case but I didn't scrape it clean. I used a touch of silicone to hold the gasket in place on the pan while I put the pan back in place. This didn't really work as the gasket fell off immediately. I just kept going trying to hold the gasket in place the best I could. After a little wrangling, I got the pan in place with a couple of the gasket holes lined up. I put in two bolts very loosely and then worked my way around the rest of the pan putting the gasket into place. So far so good - no leaks yet.

-Finally, I decided to only replace the solenoid that I thought was the problem. I did this because I wanted to keep my impact to a minimum. This way, if the transmission came out worse than when I started, I would have less to go over. If I replaced all nine, it would have been more difficult to troubleshoot my mistake.

As you can probably tell, I am a complete novice. With that said, if you take your time and do your homework, anyone can do this repair.

P.S. - I used a minimal amount of tools. I am such an amateur that I had to go out and buy a small ratchet set from walmart. The only other tools I used were pliers, a philips-head, 24mm socket with 1/2 in socket driver (didn't come with the ratchet set), 10mm combination wrench (for the tight spots), putty knife, hammer, funnel with hose, drain pan.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this.


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## JackJoachim (Jun 30, 2012)

Can someone explain this nutless bolt thing? im a little lost.


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## odlide (Sep 27, 2013)

I will see if I can explain it...

The N92 is held in place with a nut rather than a bolt. The trouble is, the threaded stud you remove the nut from is not fixed in place. Once the nut is removed, there is nothing to keep the threaded stud from being pushed into the transmission case. This youtube video shows what to do if you accidentally push the stud into the case (and should give you a good idea about what people are talking about).

http://youtu.be/OLWKW52lM7A


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## JackJoachim (Jun 30, 2012)

Can someone help me out with changing the N90 solenoid. When i was pulling the old one out i noticed that there was a metal piece sticking out making it very difficult to get it out. I got it out but i cant get the new one in. Please help me I've tried everything.


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## JackJoachim (Jun 30, 2012)

Doing the solenoid change is the worst job ever. If i had to do it again i would just take the whole front off.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

JackJoachim said:


> Can someone help me out with changing the N90 solenoid. When i was pulling the old one out i noticed that there was a metal piece sticking out making it very difficult to get it out. I got it out but i cant get the new one in. Please help me I've tried everything.


The front of the car does not need to come off. The trick with the "metal peice sticking out" (tube) is to take it "out" (away from the trans) then "right" (torwards the engine), then "down" (torward the ground). I have done over a dozen solenoid replacements and never pulled the front end.

Oh, and for anyone having this problem, you need to be gentle with everything you do regarding this pan and the "tube", as the tube goes in to an area where there are wires and plastic connectors and the tube can break the plastic on the connectors.


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## VWLauren (Mar 23, 2003)

So where are you guys buying these solenoids? the dealer? cause those are kinda pricey?


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## poison2003 (Sep 27, 2009)

Ebay or cobra transmission


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

did anyone notice MPG improvement after replacing the solenoids? i've read the whole thing from start to bottom and I feel like i'm an expert already.  I'm having the same issue on cold days. it takes a few seconds before the 1st gear will catch. all the other gears, shifts fine. if for some reason it does not go to first gear at all at some point, i might have to go home in reverse, LOL. i hope i don't get a stiff neck looking back.


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## tomp2000 (Nov 20, 2011)

*which RTV silicone to use?*

Hey guys.....amazing thread to say the least... I've got the cold won't shift from 1st to 2nd condition, and i'm going to change out all 9 solenoids in my '03 jetta 1.8T tiptronic tomorrow. The kit i ordered doesn't have the gasket/seal with it, so I'm going to have to use the RTV silicone and let it setup 12 hrs or so.... 

SO....my question.... IS THERE A SPECIFIC RTV SILICONE THAT WOULD BE PREFERABLE? any other thoughts on the situation would be appreciated.

thanks guys.... i'll update my progress one way or the other....

Stephen


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## tomp2000 (Nov 20, 2011)

*finally finished....*

OK...whew....long weekend. I just put everything back together....waiting for the RTV sealant to set, so i'll be adding the tranny fluid tomorrow night and seeing how it goes.

Some thoughts..... 

I took the front bumper off, and it makes everything much easier in my opinion (although i have no experience any other way). I also didn't take the left front wheel off. Having the bumper off gives you tons of room to get at the solenoids from the side.

N93 was a complete bitch to change out. Its almost impossible to get access to bc of a permanent piece of the transmission that juts out over it. I literally spent over an hour on it probably. I finally rigged something out of a socket angle attachment that gave me enough leverage to get it out....but then getting it back in was just as hard...i may have even stripped some threads going back in bc of being too angled....fingers crossed.

The wiring harness bracket that attaches to the transmission was also a royal pita....specifically one nut thats hard to get too. I ended up only putting 2 of the 3 back on in case i have to get to it again.

As AzViper said in this thread, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...To-Change-Solenoids-Large-Photo-Of-Valve-Body , pulling the hardline power steering line down and under the transmission is vital to having appropriate room get the pan on and off....and also I can't imaging not taking the "dog-bone" off and ratcheting the tranny back a couple of inches. 

I'll give an update after i crank it up.

Thanks again everyone.

ST


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## tomp2000 (Nov 20, 2011)

*woo yoo....*

well.... ~3.5 Liters of fluid added.... cranked it up.... shifted through the gears twice.... backed it off the ramps in my garage... turned around in my culdesac.... punched it up the hill in my subdivision.... BAM.... shifted completely clean out of 1st gear into 2nd.... slowed down and sped back through the gears 4-5 more times and everything was perfect....

I'm still holding my breath and am gonna wait a few days before letting myself claim victory....but the early results seem positive. 

to be cont'd.....

ST


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

great to know! consider it fixed. time to celebrate the new year! can you check if your MPG will improve after this change? I'd like to know. I appreciate it. Thank you.:thumbup:



tomp2000 said:


> well.... ~3.5 Liters of fluid added.... cranked it up.... shifted through the gears twice.... backed it off the ramps in my garage... turned around in my culdesac.... punched it up the hill in my subdivision.... BAM.... shifted completely clean out of 1st gear into 2nd.... slowed down and sped back through the gears 4-5 more times and everything was perfect....
> 
> I'm still holding my breath and am gonna wait a few days before letting myself claim victory....but the early results seem positive.
> 
> ...


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Car: 2006 Jetta 2.5 Tiptronic. 141,600 miles.

Issue: When warm (after either 20 minutes of city driving or highway driving), the car fails to engage the next gear when changing gear, revs rise, and then with an almighty bang it will shift into the next gear. Additionally, when shifting into reverse, when warm, it will sometimes shift in with a huge bang.

VW says: ''it'll be $200 for us to plug in a computer and read the code. We suspect a new solenoid manifold is needed, which is $2300. However if you'd noticed the problem before 100,000 miles, then it was a factory recall''.

Questions:

1) How do I confirm that I definitely have an 09A? Is it stamped on the gearbox?
2) Cobra Transmission's solenoids are OEM? (on sale at $320 at the moment). I see a seller on eBay for $250-ish, but cannot tell if they are OEM. For $70 extra, I'll pay for OEM.
3) Is there an update on the ATF to use? I see people trying many different types. Febi-Bilstien seem to list a fluid as being suitable, or there is a FUCH's which I've seen someone say is who VW get their fluid from?
4) Will a CAN OBII code reader like this one http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-professional-scan-tool-60694.html plug into a Jetta, or does it require the $250 VAG reader which runs on windows? I do not want to spend $250 just to read codes on my Jetta, but I will spend $80 to buy a code reader if it'll do ''any car made since 1996'' as claimed about the CAN OBII reader.
5) My plan is to first pull the cable shown in the thread and measure solenoid resistances to see if one is obviously faulty. If question 4) above is a yes, then I'll next buy the diagnostic tool and plug into the computer to see if there is a code. Finally, if all looks like it is a solenoid replacement job, then I'll order parts and have a go with both the left wheel off and front bumper removed.

Many thanks for the masses of info on here.


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## SNS1938 (Jan 13, 2014)

Well, turns out I don't have an 09A, but have the later 09G 6 speed tiptronic. I'd never noticed it was 6 speed, as I don't run it tiptronic.

Bad to new research.


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## treblarefils (Mar 4, 2012)

I got my kit from cobra transmissions off of ebay they are OEM solenoids and have the exact same markings as the ones I pulled out. 09A is stamped on the bottom of the trans somewhere I don't remember exactly where but it was there. I got my fluid from the dealership just make sure it is the correct fluid originally they gave me the wrong one and I had to go back for the correct one. I use my OBdII code reader I bought from ebay to pull codes and view live data all the time it is just a basic cheap scant tool with live data I think it was 75bux 5 years ago or so works awesome and I use it on all my cars and friends you don't need anything special to pull codes I can even view coolant temp rpm misc voltages fuel trim a lot of things. It is possible for the solenoid to mechanically fail which will not pop codes and you will never know even if you measure the resistances. Its one of those gamble fixes in way but it has fixed many peoples cars and most just replace all 8 and not just the one that is the problem. it was a pain in the ass but very doable to change out the solenoids and I did it over a 2 day period first tearing apart then the next day putting solenoids in but its better than paying 3k for rebuild and taking trans out. I also purchased a cork trans pan gasket instead of using the sealant in a tube has been great 2 years now.


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## Pizzaman66 (Dec 10, 2012)

SNS1938 said:


> Car: 2006 Jetta 2.5 Tiptronic. 141,600 miles.
> 
> Issue: When warm (after either 20 minutes of city driving or highway driving), the car fails to engage the next gear when changing gear, revs rise, and then with an almighty bang it will shift into the next gear. Additionally, when shifting into reverse, when warm, it will sometimes shift in with a huge bang.


This is exactly what i am dealing with. Unless anybody has any suggestions i am going to replace the n92 and hope that fixes it


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## neveraging (May 30, 2012)

coolvdub said:


> <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>audi10021075</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don,<br>I've been reading your thread and also been doing some researching on the forum about problem with my tranny.<br>My symptom is usually when engine is cold i.e. tranny is cold too, it will not shift beyond 2nd and will stay there for about 5 minutes until I hear a thump and all is well. <br>So my question is, wouldn't it have been easier if you took the tranny off from the car and work on the tranny?<br>Seems like you have the knowledge to take the whole car apart. <br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Your tranny problem is not one I am familiar with. That being said, if it shifts fine after it's warm you may be low on fluid. Do you have VAG-COM so you can scan for error codes? *If not, post up in your regional forum looking for somebody local who does.*<p>As far as removing the tranny, it is an absolute pain in the a$$. So it was easier to work on it in the car,even though it is a tight working area.


So...anyone near downtown Houston TX aching to venture into a 2002 09A with probably solenoid culprits?


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## audi2.4 (Mar 12, 2014)

*Audi Problem*

Hi Guys, I am new here, and know this is a very old thread, but hoping some of you expert guys are still on this forum and will be able to help me out. I have an Audi A4 b6 2002 2.4 v6 with 65000kms on the clock and I am experiencing the following. When the car is cold (first run of the day, or after a few hours of being parked), I do not have this issue as well as when the revs are below 1200 or above 1900. It feels like the car is unsure of when to change, and the revs blip up by 200rpm, but does change gears. This only happens at normal running temp and between 1200 and 1900 rpm. Also it feels like the car jumps/shudders during when it changes but this doesnt happen every time. I have put the car on diagnostics, and no codes whatsoever! I have taken it to various mechanics around my country, and all are dumbfounded! Any suggestions would be greatly appeciated. We have changed the ATF oil etc.


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## audi2.4 (Mar 12, 2014)

audi2.4 said:


> Hi Guys, I am new here, and know this is a very old thread, but hoping some of you expert guys are still on this forum and will be able to help me out. I have an Audi A4 b6 2002 2.4 v6 with 65000kms on the clock and I am experiencing the following. When the car is cold (first run of the day, or after a few hours of being parked), I do not have this issue as well as when the revs are below 1200 or above 1900. It feels like the car is unsure of when to change, and the revs blip up by 200rpm, but does change gears. This only happens at normal running temp and between 1200 and 1900 rpm. Also it feels like the car jumps/shudders during when it changes but this doesnt happen every time. I have put the car on diagnostics, and no codes whatsoever! I have taken it to various mechanics around my country, and all are dumbfounded! Any suggestions would be greatly appeciated. We have changed the ATF oil etc.


Note that it DOES change gears, and when it is in that range of RPM it has this problem with any gear. When it is above 1900rpm it does NOT have this problem in any gear.


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## tdegg78 (Dec 17, 2005)

*Sludge??*

Has anyone removed their valve body cover only to find the entire valve body and solenoids covered in a thick dark layer of emulcified ATF? Got my set of new solenoids, but the sight of that valve body is troubling. Any ideas on what to use to clean this? I've heard brake cleaner works well. Got a feeling I'll be taking this valve body out. :banghead:


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

*09A solenoid repair issue!! HELP*

Hey unlucky 09A owners-

I was having trouble with my tranny shifting from 1st to second without warming up the engine to full temp... only then, it would shift but still quite delayed and delicate. Shift from 2 to 3rd was very short and a little jerky, so I learned to drive it this way for a while. After researching a TON on these and other forums / locations, I decided to change out all 9 solenoids myself. I purchased aftermarket solenoids (not marked with the Mitsubishi logo) because they were a hair cheaper than Cobra trans's. ... Probsbly not the smartest idea. After it was all put back together, I started the car and the display on the dash which shows the currently selected gear in a darker "block" was showing ALL gears selected!! Reverse worked fine (after shifting slowly through all shift positions on the full auto mode to get the ATF in throughout the trans)... but drive was barely a creep at most. In tiptronic mode, it showed I was in 4th gear and would not shift out of 4th. The only thing I can think of that I may have done to cause an issue is placing the red wire connection on a different bolt other than the left bolt of solenoid N90 which appears to be the correct placement from research I've done afterward. Could this cause a grounding issue and cause the TCM / ECU to not recognize which gear the trans is in? I would prefer to fix this myself but I am no professional mechanic and at this point I don't want to cause more harm than good. Thanks for the help / info- :banghead:


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## jettarevivor (Apr 6, 2014)

*Crunching in Park*

First of all, I read through this entire thread and used it as a guide. Really good info and incredible that it's going on 10 years old. Never seen a thread like it.

I just changed all 9 solenoids out. My 02 Jetta GLS 1.8T sedan with 09A tiptronic wouldn't shift out of first until warmed up. And there were some shifts that weren't smooth, etc. Didn't have much trouble putting in the solenoids (thanks to this thread AzViper's), but when I put it all back together and put back in 3.25 qts of fresh fluid (the same amount that came out), I started it up and let it sit in each gear for 10 sec. Everything seemed good until I tried to put the tranny in Park...I got a bad crunch. So put car in N, shut off, then put in P. Started it back up. No crunch, just like when I first started it. Went through the gears again. Same crunching again when I tried to put it in Park. Anyone know what's going on? I thought I put the gear selector/multi switch back in the exact alignment it was in before. Could this be it? I haven't driven the car, yet. Still up on jack stands. Any ideas?

Right now, I'm going to check fluid level. If that's good, I might try adjusting the multi-switch a little and see if that's it. Or I might just lower the car and see how it drives.


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## jettarevivor (Apr 6, 2014)

*Figured it out. Stupid is, as stupid does.*

Not used to auto trannies, so when I was putting the car in Park, I wasn't depressing the brake pedal far enough with my hand (not sitting in the car...the car is still on jack stands) to stop the drive wheel completely. So it was like trying to throw the car in Park while it was still rolling.

Fluid level good. Drained out 3.25 qts. Put back in 3.5. This was just right to get a slow drip from check drain at 40C with engine idling. Took car for drive. Shifts like new! Smooth and responsive. Thank you to everybody who has already done this. You gave me the confidence I needed to diagnose and do the repair.

The best advice I can give is layout the bolts with new solenoids with solenoid number and ground locations labeled as you remove the old solenoids. I used paper towel to layout and label on. As for the plastic electric connectors, just do the best you can. I had two that had little plastic bits fall off, but the connectors are still tight on the spade with the plastic surround still around it.


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## Thrust1 (Jun 4, 2014)

*2002 GTi 337 Fixed using this post- THANK YOU!*

Mine was shifting too soon and kind of slipping. Then had the "won't shift from 1st to 2nd till after 20 min of warm up". Bought a Solenoid Kit from Cobra Transmission and replaced 6 of them. Now it feels better than ever. Thank You!

TIP: When removing the pan out the bottom, first lift it up just far enough for the breather tube to clear the top of transmission. Now rotate it to the right being very patent and carful. The breather tube will be on the outside of the valve body and not get hung up or damage anything. I removed the battery and batt box to do this. 

I've got three NEW Solenoid Valves for anyone that might need them. N90, N91, N93. I'll ship one for $50 and all three for $100. Let me know?

Mark - CELL is 949-422-7569


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## theinternot (May 11, 2010)

*Removed valve body pan... vent tube is sheared off... do I absolutely need to replace?*

Just bought a 2004 Jetta Wagon 1.8T

Won't shift into first when cold. 

I bought the cobra solenoid kit and just got the pan off... the vent tube is sheared off at the base. The pan fell right off.

No sign of the tube in the valve body area and gasket is new.

So, obviously it has been opened before and, obviously the vent tube is important else it wouldn't be there...

But, if the opening is unclogged where tube meets the pan body, is it that big a deal to just put it back on without the tube extending an inch and half into the valve body, or do I have get a new pan?

Thanks

P.s. I also let the ATF drip drain for about 24 hours and I got a whopping 4.7L out of it... is this just result of gravity draining the fluid through the gears, or was this over filled?


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

Someone clearly opened it, cut off the vent tube, and likely replaced a few solenoids to try to fix the issue but wasn't successful if you are still having shift issues. I see many people having success with a full 9 solenoid OEM replacement, which I'm about to do as well. I have also seen a few people mentioning they trimmed back or cut off the vent tube just like what you see on yours, and the car runs fine when put back together. I would guess it's not completely necessary, but it obviously has a purpose. I wouldn't waste the time getting a new pan. Just do a complete solenoid replacement and go from there. If that doesn't fix it, next will be the valve body diagnosis followed by transmission work or replacement. Good luck with the solenoid kit and please report back with your results!


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## theinternot (May 11, 2010)

Thank you for the reply.

I will post back with the results.




Ianator157 said:


> Someone clearly opened it, cut off the vent tube, and likely replaced a few solenoids to try to fix the issue but wasn't successful if you are still having shift issues. I see many people having success with a full 9 solenoid OEM replacement, which I'm about to do as well. I have also seen a few people mentioning they trimmed back or cut off the vent tube just like what you see on yours, and the car runs fine when put back together. I would guess it's not completely necessary, but it obviously has a purpose. I wouldn't waste the time getting a new pan. Just do a complete solenoid replacement and go from there. If that doesn't fix it, next will be the valve body diagnosis followed by transmission work or replacement. Good luck with the solenoid kit and please report back with your results!


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## theinternot (May 11, 2010)

You are correct.

It looks as if all the solenoids have been replaced. Only two have the original plastic retaining clips in place, and all the solenoids are missing the Mistubishi logo and Japanese writing. 

Doesn't leave me with warm and fuzzies that this is going to fix the issue if these have all already been replaced... but, I am half way into it.. so..:banghead:



Ianator157 said:


> Someone clearly opened it, cut off the vent tube, and likely replaced a few solenoids to try to fix the issue but wasn't successful if you are still having shift issues. I see many people having success with a full 9 solenoid OEM replacement, which I'm about to do as well. I have also seen a few people mentioning they trimmed back or cut off the vent tube just like what you see on yours, and the car runs fine when put back together. I would guess it's not completely necessary, but it obviously has a purpose. I wouldn't waste the time getting a new pan. Just do a complete solenoid replacement and go from there. If that doesn't fix it, next will be the valve body diagnosis followed by transmission work or replacement. Good luck with the solenoid kit and please report back with your results!


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## Chabot1987 (Feb 26, 2013)

*Changed All 9 solenoids.*

Thanks to original poster, following this guide will get all 9 solenoids changed, I'm currently waiting for my RTV to set and then tighten up the pan and put it all back together and hopefully fix the hard shifts. took me about 2 days total. and another 24 hours for RTV to set (if your using that, i only did because i forgot to order the gasket)

I do have some advice to any one else.

1. That bolt that disappears make sure you put the nut back on right after you take the bracket off, i could not get my bolt back out for some reason even with a strong magnet.
i had to tap some threads into the valve body and get a 1/4 20 bolt and do it that way (hoping it doesn't effect it to much we will see as i had no other choice)

2. I undone my bumper bolts and pulled the number forward and gave me an extra 2-3 inches to work with (critical for getting the pan back on. i tried the ratcheting strap thing and didn't really give me much to work with.

3. the N93 solenoid..........Damn....... theres a wiring loom right in front of the pan with a bracket, well take the bracket off makes life so much easier oh and make sure you have a 10mm stubby wrench this also makes live easier.

I tested all my solenoids and all were good except the N93 solenoid. PM mw for any other questions.

Thanks Coolvdub.


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## bmp20bunny (May 8, 2004)

ive had my share of frustrations with the 09A trans, for sure. now working on the 3rd car ive had with it, 02 Jetta 1.8T AWP with EYN trans code. similar symptoms to others. originally wouldn't shift out of first until like 5k rpm, then generally jerky shifting. then if you dropped below a certain MPH, it would go back to first and stay there until 5k again, haha. replaced all 9 solenoids, I think they were the generic ones. has all speeds now, but now shifts generally harsh all the time, along with harsh 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts when coming to a stop. shifts 1-2 really quickly, 2-3 is fair, 3-4 is pretty harsh again, 4-5 kinda feels slidy.


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## Chabot1987 (Feb 26, 2013)

bmp20bunny said:


> ive had my share of frustrations with the 09A trans, for sure. now working on the 3rd car ive had with it, 02 Jetta 1.8T AWP with EYN trans code. similar symptoms to others. originally wouldn't shift out of first until like 5k rpm, then generally jerky shifting. then if you dropped below a certain MPH, it would go back to first and stay there until 5k again, haha. replaced all 9 solenoids, I think they were the generic ones. has all speeds now, but now shifts generally harsh all the time, along with harsh 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts when coming to a stop. shifts 1-2 really quickly, 2-3 is fair, 3-4 is pretty harsh again, 4-5 kinda feels slidy.


How long did it take to get back to the harsh shifting i just buttoned my car back up and took it for a test drive and drives like a dream,


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## bmp20bunny (May 8, 2004)

pretty much right away. I was all excited when it came out of first before 5k, haha. but its been the same jerky harsh shifting for about 2k miles after solenoid swap.


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## Chabot1987 (Feb 26, 2013)

damn that sucks, hope mine isn't like that, I'm looking to get rid of it any way never touching a VW ever again, nothing but problems for me so far.


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## bmp20bunny (May 8, 2004)

these were my previous attempts:



me on another thread said:


> Car #1, 02 Jetta 1.8t, 155k miles. Original symptoms were no reverse, and wouldn't shift out of first at any temp/rpm. Reading online, and a pm or two with coolairvw, I rolled the dice and bought one OEM N92 solenoid. Got all forward gears, somewhat jerky, but still no reverse. So, I rolled more dice, lol.. Got the 9 pack off eBay for 300-ish, now has all gears, but has a strange 2-3 up shift, kind of holds 2nd a little long, hesitates, then into 3rd. I'm kind of at a loss, but might need to readapt it, and maybe a capacitive discharge.
> 
> Car #2, 02 Jetta GLX 24v vr6, 165k miles. Bought recently with no reverse at all, had 1-2 gears but that's it, acted like shifted into neutral after 2nd. Pulled end cover off, had a split/torn high clutch seal and smoked the clutch there. Checked piston for cracks, replaced seals and clutch pack. Now currently, has all gears, but no reverse when cold, and very erratic forward gears. One time you stop, it goes through all 5 perfect, the next time, it feels like 2-3 slips and revs up a little, then slams hard into 4th.... Then the next light it just slams hard into every gear on the way up the range. replaced solenoid pack from "Electrical Advantage", seemed better but was still funky-shifting.


to be honest, these cars were all bought with the trans problem, and I tried to fix them. seems like broken Jettas always find their way to me so I can keep them on the road instead of the salvage yards where these 3 were destined to wind up. this latest car is the nicest of the group, good color blue with grey leather. I hope I can get it straightened out and make a decent driver out of it.


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## jayleekay (Jun 11, 2010)

bmp20bunny said:


> pretty much right away. I was all excited when it came out of first before 5k, haha. but its been the same jerky harsh shifting for about 2k miles after solenoid swap.


Let me know if you guys figure out how to get the car from slam shifting. I'd really like to know. I haven't changed any of my solenoids and don't want to do it if that's not the actual problem.

My car is fun because on some days it doesn't do it at all. The really annoying part is the shifting down to 1st gear at lights slamming.


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

*Follow-up on 09A solenoid replacement*

Hey there Tiptronic nerds-

I just wanted to follow up on my transmission issues, and solenoid replacement. Like other people, I decided to initially purchase an aftermarket solenoid kit. After installing that kit, I went to drive the vehicle and I realized it was starting in a higher gear (with the help of a tranny guy who drove it). Luckily, someone on this forum emailed me and told me that they purchased the same kit, and pretty much had the same higher gear starting issue. They had to bite the bullet and then purchase an OEM kit from cobra transmissions, and tried that. Guess what?! The OEM Jatco solenoid kit fixed his problems, and the car now shifts as it should. This have me some hope lol.

I contacted the company from which I bought the aftermarket kit and explained the issue. Apparently, they have had customers experiencing similar issues with the aftermarket kits... So he agreed to ship an OEM kit to me, and refund the price of the aftermarket kit once returned. That went easier than I expected, but I'm sure he doesn't want his company's reputation being tarnished simply because one of the aftermarket products they carry is junk!

Anyway, third time was a charm. I removed the junk kit, installed the new OEM 9 solenoid kit, sealed it up, and used Royal Purple Max ATF. Also worth noting*** I didn't move the bumper to do the job. Once I removed the valve body pan, cleaned it up, I decided to cut the 4" vent tube to reduce clearance issues and gasket smearing when reinstalling it from under the car. Others have cut off the vent tube and not had any issues, so I decided to do the same. The only pain in the butt because of the clearance is reattaching the L-shaped bracket which is held against the front of the valve body cover with three nuts. It took a combo of a straight racheting wrench and a deep socket w/ ratchet. 

Started the car, and it started making a bunch of clicking noises which I actually think was the transmission adjusting itself in relation to the car's computer and TCM (remember that it was previously starting in 3rd gear when put in the "D" position). I let the car fully warm up, then put it in Drive, then back in park ... Back in forth between the two a few times before I tried the other positions. I finally went through the other positions to help the ATF cycle through the transmission / valve body as recommended. Finally I drove it, and it worked! I'm almost at 1,000 miles since the job, and it gradually smoothed out and improved (on a small scale, because right out of the gate it felt amazing). I am so damn relieved and happy that I was able to fix this issue, and I highly recommend anyone else with similar symptoms to consider doing this job themselves before wasting $1000-$2000 on tranny work or even a new transmission that you may not need. DO NOT purchase aftermarket solenoids; spend a little extra and get the OEM parts!! I'm finding this is the case for almost everything needing replacement for normal / stock use. I hope this is helpful and inspiring info for other Tiptronic owners. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, since the process is still fresh in my mind. I also have a bunch of decent images that I've collected so details can be seen on actuall valve body examples; I used it to see solenoid orientation and placement, along with the order of bolts / brackets / ground wires.


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## coolvdub (Feb 19, 2000)

Hi People,

Sorry for the pics being down, forgot to renew my subscription. Please note I don't come to this site much if at all. So if you send me a PM I won't see it. I am over on TDI club now since I drive a TDI now. I keep the pictures up as a courtesy to the members here on the VwVortex. If you need technical help, I would recommend getting in touch with CoolAirVw.


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## KollarVW (Aug 7, 2014)

*Another Successful Selenoid Change*

My son in the Marine Corps went out and bought a 2006 Golf GTI with 103k, without Dad's help of course. A couple weeks after driving it off the lot, no reverse when cold, missing 4th gear shift and the slap shift wouldn't work. I had him baby it until he could drive home this holiday weekend and we did the solenoid change this weekend, along with rear brakes, new bushings all around, two new CV shafts, all tie rods, spark plugs, throttle body cleaned and K&N air filter cleaned. A huge thanks to coolvdub for the information on this in multiple posts, also AvantGT17 for fluid change how to. After removing the cover (pan) the valve body was really clean, the fluid was nasty as expected. Changed the solenoids with the kit from Cobra Transmission, put it all back together, refilled with VW factory fluid and it runs like a new car. Shifts smooth and the slap shift works again. Add in the other work and the car is running like a top, man that car really goes, a lot faster than my MKIII Golf daily driver, time for a turbo maybe? Also, thanks to all the other folks, too many to list, for all the tidbits if information they added to the posts related to this issue. I think my son received a proper initiation this weekend into the love/hate VW owner experience.


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## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

I waited on posting until I was sure we had fixed all the issues, but was having weird shifting between 2-3 and 3-4, high revs, and very jerky. Solenoid kit was on sale from Cobra and bought it. Put the Mobil 1 synthetic Mercon V transmission fluid back in and everything is fixed. I pulled the front bumper and lock carrier just to make things easy and I did not have to remove the dogbone. Thanks a lot!

Mike


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

it's the time again. getting colder and shifting to drive takes a second or two before it catches. So last Sunday, i replaced my ATF oil. I used to replace it with the VW ATF and thought what the heck, I should try the AMSOIL ATF as they indicated on their website that's applicable to my car. I had 1Qt left of VW stuff and 5 Qts of AMSOIL ATF. I raised the car thru the ramp and raised the back of the car to level it.

Then started to drain the oil and got around 3.8 Qts of oil. By the way, i replaced the oil like 33000 miles ago and found the used oil really black. put in 1 Qt of VW remaining oil I had and 2.8 Qts of AMSOIL ATF and tested it and it works. So this morning, it's cold and i thought here's the test I'm waiting for the 2nd cold morning and found that the gear catches right away. Looks like i'm not replacing my solenoid as I have planned previously. I'll be replacing the ATF every 20000 miles this time. 

For the rest of the reader, you might want to consider the AMSOIL atf for your 5 speed auto trans with tiptronic. it works. I'll find out the real test on a really cold day around 40s or below. I hope this helps others too.


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## radlynx (Jan 4, 2007)

another update for my post. so I had around 45 degree temp the other morning and i thought, here's the real test for my transmission issue on cold mornings. started it and put it to drive and it catches right away. My problem is fixed now. :thumbup:



radlynx said:


> it's the time again. getting colder and shifting to drive takes a second or two before it catches. So last Sunday, i replaced my ATF oil. I used to replace it with the VW ATF and thought what the heck, I should try the AMSOIL ATF as they indicated on their website that's applicable to my car. I had 1Qt left of VW stuff and 5 Qts of AMSOIL ATF. I raised the car thru the ramp and raised the back of the car to level it.
> 
> Then started to drain the oil and got around 3.8 Qts of oil. By the way, i replaced the oil like 33000 miles ago and found the used oil really black. put in 1 Qt of VW remaining oil I had and 2.8 Qts of AMSOIL ATF and tested it and it works. So this morning, it's cold and i thought here's the test I'm waiting for the 2nd cold morning and found that the gear catches right away. Looks like i'm not replacing my solenoid as I have planned previously. I'll be replacing the ATF every 20000 miles this time.
> 
> For the rest of the reader, you might want to consider the AMSOIL atf for your 5 speed auto trans with tiptronic. it works. I'll find out the real test on a really cold day around 40s or below. I hope this helps others too.


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

I replaced my solenoids, because I was having the not shifting out of first when it's cold. Now I have the n89 short to ground and it's stuck in 4th gear with the shift indicators on the dash all backlit black. I put the old n89 back in thinking it was faulty and rechecked my wires. I've read that you can check the ohms on the wires to pinpointing the short. Is there a diy to make it easier so I don't fry anything? 

I'm hoping it's just the TCM.


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

I had a similar problem with a ground issue, which I'm pretty sure was the result of improper order of the wires stacked with the solenoid brackets, specifically with the two solenoids which have the red and black leads coming off and connecting at other places. I had also initially left off the tiny bracket which is shaped like a 'Z', which I later put back in the correct place. I highly recommend going in again and checking all the connections before doing anything else. Also check the wire coming off the N89 to see if it has any breaks in the insulation, or at the connection point. Did you purchase the OEM Jatco solenoid kit, or an aftermarket kit?


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

If you need detailed images of the valve body with the solenoids in the correct order, PM me with your email address-


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

The second time I checked the wires and rechecked all the grounds, I didn't see any cracks or exposed wires while I was in there. I did get the Jatco kit from Cobra Transmission, I replaced them one at a time. It's possible I pulled or cracked a wire in the harness when I was removing the n93, but I'll probably dig back into the transmission and recheck everything


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

Ianator157 said:


> I had a similar problem with a ground issue, which I'm pretty sure was the result of improper order of the wires stacked with the solenoid brackets, specifically with the two solenoids which have the red and black leads coming off and connecting at other places. I had also initially left off the tiny bracket which is shaped like a 'Z', which I later put back in the correct place. I highly recommend going in again and checking all the connections before doing anything else. Also check the wire coming off the N89 to see if it has any breaks in the insulation, or at the connection point. Did you purchase the OEM Jatco solenoid kit, or an aftermarket kit?


Was the red wire grounding out from not being centered or do you think it was the ground wires touching somewhere? Your talking about the red wire next to the N93?

I'm still having the same problem and i'm going to jump back into it one more time before i send this car off somewhere.


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

The photo you attached actually shows the INCORRECT placement for the red wire... The correct placement for the wire is connected to the left bolt (above the bracket) on solenoid N90. My guess is that you are dealing with a ground issue like I was... I'm not entirely sure if my issue was because of these wires, or even a combo of those and solenoid bracket / order issues, but I really think it would be worth the time to go in and loosen all the solenoids and check to make sure each one has clearance to seat properly. Like I said, I think one of the problematic areas is the steel 'Z' shaped guard piece which connects to the N89 solenoid or a bolt underneath view of N89's wire connection (I can't remember if together or separate bolt)- the order of which is large steel bracket first, then small steel Z bracket, then the fastening nut. Other than those two wires and the Z bracket which I made sure were correct the final time I was in there, I just took my time to make sure all solenoids were seating properly and no wires were interfering with clearance. You're almost there, so don't give up on it now! The good thing is each solenoid can only fit and match up in its designated place... So you can't screw up the placement; only the stacking of solenoid brackets and lead wires. PM me if you feel you need any more images or help. You got this-


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

Here you can see the proper placement of the black lead to N91 (upper wire) and the red lead to N90 (Lower wire) - https://www.dropbox.com/s/0jiy53y7kz366y8/Photo Feb 20, 3 36 30 PM.png?dl=0


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

I'll dig into it tomorrow and see what i can find. I do remember the 2 ground wires in the correct position as the image you posted, unless im mistaking the red wire as one of the ground wires. I just dont remember a red wire, so that might be my issue, but i will double check all the solenoids and the brackets as well. I'll post back on my findings. Thank you for the help, i really appreciate it.


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

I looked back at all my pictures i took when i first started replacing the solenoids and you are correct. It is a red wire. Do you think its possible that could be grounding out if its not centered properly on the bolt?


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## Tuf (Mar 30, 2015)

I have a vw bora ,1.9 tdi ,85 kw , engine code AUY , gearbox code 09A 321 107. Reverse don't work.*
On*vag*com*no errors . When i pun in R it feels something conect but the car stay still. I accelerate without a move from the car, only the speedometer goes until 40 km/h. Forward drive goes in all the ghears , and when i release gas pedal*rpm goes to idlle.
I found a gearbox from a 96 kw engine with code 09A 321 106 it will goes on my car ?
Really i don' t know with what to start.


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## CoolAirVw (Mar 8, 2007)

I suppose the first question you should ask is do you have a 09A? What is the year of your Bora?

You posted this in a thread regarding stuck solenoids on a 09A. Your symptom definitely could be stuck solenoids. Of course this is assuming you have a 09A.


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## Tuf (Mar 30, 2015)

Yes is 09A gearbox. I ask because i read all the thread and i am not sure , if is the solenoids or the discs. I want to eliminate the risk of paying 350 eur on solenoids and then , still to disasembly the gearbox. I change two times the oil and hope it will come back to live. And my main question is . Can i take a gearbox from another car without the Tcm ( gearbox computer) ?


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## SKOCAMAN (Sep 27, 2013)

*Shifting issues with my 2003 GTI*

Hello Everyone, I have read all the thread's with shifting problems, thanks for the good tips. I have a 2003 GTi with the 5 speed tiptronic, couple of months ago, mine started not to shift to 2nd, I had to pull over and wait then it shifted, got code P0732 and my local vw dealer topped off the fluid ( not flush ) because it was missing like a bottle. Of course that did not fix it, like others, if I warm up 20 minutes, it shifts perfectly and even drove to NH white mountains from Boston in one day. 

Gave the car to the most reputable transmission shop in Mass, they cold me today, they said it gave the CEL in the morning when they drove it without warming it up, tested and one of the solenoids is bad with circuit, to fix that $500 part and labor. But as you all wrote, changing all 9 better and that costs $900. 

However even being experienced tech, owner of the shop saying he is worried it might be an mechanical problem inside but he is saying shifting perfect once warm and he drove it like that also and the car only being at 90K miles, leans towards the solenoids

Any recommendations ??

Thank you guys


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

I would most definitely replace all 9 solenoids at one time, and make sure they are Jatco OEM solenoids and not aftermarket. You can do this job under $400 yourself if you have basic metric tools, jack stands and ability to leave your car sitting for a day or two at most. I personally didn't have any codes related to electrical issues with the solenoids ... Meaning they were receiving the signal without low or broken current; however mine had mechanically failed or had bad seals and would no longer function properly. If you need help let me know and I can give more details on the process-


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## Ianator157 (Mar 15, 2014)

KiDGiB said:


> I looked back at all my pictures i took when i first started replacing the solenoids and you are correct. It is a red wire. Do you think its possible that could be grounding out if its not centered properly on the bolt?


Did you ever resolve your trans issue? Sorry I didn't get notified about your question on the red wire and just saw your post. I think it's very possible the red and / or black can contact a place it shouldn't and cause a short / ground issue. If you got it running well, let us know!


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## SKOCAMAN (Sep 27, 2013)

Thank you Ianator157, I did not do anything yet, took the car back, everett transmission near Boston will look at it also, he said he will be able to tell if its mechanical ( clutch ) damage or just the valve body, he said it could be easy as the solenoids, just do not want to spend money without knowing


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## rosgood14 (Sep 19, 2015)

*05 jetta issue*



Ianator157 said:


> I would most definitely replace all 9 solenoids at one time, and make sure they are Jatco OEM solenoids and not aftermarket. You can do this job under $400 yourself if you have basic metric tools, jack stands and ability to leave your car sitting for a day or two at most. I personally didn't have any codes related to electrical issues with the solenoids ... Meaning they were receiving the signal without low or broken current; however mine had mechanically failed or had bad seals and would no longer function properly. If you need help let me know and I can give more details on the process-




so I have been looking all over trying to figure out my problem. I have a 2005 jetta tdi with the 09A tranny and I'm thinking and kind of hoping its my solenoids. The car was shifting just fine and smooth no issues. the day before my CEL had come on but nothing changed. well the next day and I stopped for a school bus and when I went to accelerate it would not shift out of what appears to be first gear. I can only do 20mph but if you look at the shift display it shows that its going into 3rd but I think its full of crap because its not shifting. I changed the tranny fluid and also found out that it was over filled from the guy I just bought it from by about a quart. Do you think it could just be the solenoids. the only code I'm getting is P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio.


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## SKOCAMAN (Sep 27, 2013)

rosgood14 said:


> so I have been looking all over trying to figure out my problem. I have a 2005 jetta tdi with the 09A tranny and I'm thinking and kind of hoping its my solenoids. The car was shifting just fine and smooth no issues. the day before my CEL had come on but nothing changed. well the next day and I stopped for a school bus and when I went to accelerate it would not shift out of what appears to be first gear. I can only do 20mph but if you look at the shift display it shows that its going into 3rd but I think its full of crap because its not shifting. I changed the tranny fluid and also found out that it was over filled from the guy I just bought it from by about a quart. Do you think it could just be the solenoids. the only code I'm getting is P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio.


I have the same code, car is at the 2nd shop know, they are looking at it, mine is most likely solenoids since it shifts perfect when I warm the car up ( 2o mins before I drive )


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## mein_geiles_auto (Jan 17, 2007)

*Solenoid replacement fixed shifting problem*

Just a word of thanks for the excellent info contained in this thread and a nudge for anyone experiencing shifting issues to consider changing their solenoids. 

My '03 Jetta 1.8t Tiptronic has about 140,000 miles and had been exhibiting the classic faulty solenoid symptoms: shifting problems first thing in the morning (i.e. "morning sickness"), but the problem would disappear as the car started to warm up only to reappear when the car had cooled and was started again. 

I bought the solenoids and wiring harness from Cobra, swapped out the old for the new, changed the fluid, and the transmission now shifts without any problems at all - just brilliant!

While some have pinpointed specific solenoids to change, given the time involved with this work it's more sensible to replace everything in one go - solenoids and wiring harness. 

Cheers


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## SKOCAMAN (Sep 27, 2013)

Hello Sir, I have the same problem on my car and did it give any CEL code ?


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## mein_geiles_auto (Jan 17, 2007)

SKOCAMAN said:


> Hello Sir, I have the same problem on my car and did it give any CEL code ?


I don't recall the exact code off the top of my head, but there was one. 

In the absence of any obvious abuse, these transmissions appear to be quite durable. It seems rare for the valve body and/or entire transmission to fail. The solenoids are usually the weak link, so to speak, but many mechanics tend to misdiagnose the problem.


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

Ianator157 said:


> Did you ever resolve your trans issue? Sorry I didn't get notified about your question on the red wire and just saw your post. I think it's very possible the red and / or black can contact a place it shouldn't and cause a short / ground issue. If you got it running well, let us know!


No problem. I haven't been receiving notification on this topic. I actually have been riding my motorcycle all year, but now that winter is coming, I need a vehicle for the snow so I will be digging back into the Jetta. I even thought about replacing the whole wiring harness while I'm in there just incase I cracked a wire when I was in there last. If those don't fix it, I'm sending it to a shop to see if they can figure out. 

Do you know if it would be bad to hook up the battery and check if the dash is still blacked out while having no transmission fluid or the cover on to see if it's cleared? Just so I'm not wasting tranny fluid everytime I tear into it.


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## SKOCAMAN (Sep 27, 2013)

Got the car back from the shop, all 9 Solenoids changed with Cobra Jatco Solenoids and also fluid flushed, currently works perfect, from the first day used the car without warming up and being easy on it for the first 1000 miles so fluid settles , hoping drives this way for more, TY everyone for the help


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## Sheri-V (Nov 9, 2015)

Im coming to the conclusion that its either wiring or the aftermarket solenoids I used on my transmission..
I got a set off of ebay, brand name KUR
I have pretty harsh shifting after initially it shifting perfectly when it was first put back together. I was delighted with the car

now im considering not driving it until I can buy another set of solenoids..
Im reluctant to open it again to check the wiring without replacing the solenoids again while its apart.

Im getting an intermittent ground code for n281

downshifts are a bear..upshifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to third can be a bit brisk.


I won't have the money for a couple of weeks to get them through cobra


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## SKOCAMAN (Sep 27, 2013)

How much was the ebay solenoids ? I believe Cobra is not that more expensive, all 9 solenoids Cobra I paid around $340


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## KiDGiB (Jan 28, 2013)

*Update*

To update everyone with my issue. I ended up bringing the vehicle to a transmission shop, since I have no time to work on the vehicle at this time. It ended up being a cracked wire, so it was grounding out. I know i probably wouldn't have found it. They soldered the wire back together and put some kind of high temp shrink wrap over it, so i didn't need a new wiring harness. All i know, is that those solenoids from CobraTransmission are working flawlessly and I'm enjoying being in my Jetta again.


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## niksi2005 (Sep 9, 2013)

Just did the all 9 solenoids on 09A on 04 Jetta TDI.It was not hard job at all and is well worted.The car shift like new now


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## AlexanderX (Mar 16, 2016)

Would anyone happen to have a time frame of completion for this project?

From what I have verified through the internet and the Bentley manual, hope this helps someone. Also if seriouse about this project, read this entire thread, not just a few post. (fewer VW related headaches and pains)

How to determine transmission type:
http://www.ultraimg.com/album/QtS

Filter change note:
O1M filter can and should be changed
09A transmission filters cannot be changed without removing the entire transmission according to this post:
http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...ed-auto-02&p=16439944&viewfull=1#post16439944
and
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=196755

Type of trans fluid to use:
The transmission fluid that meets OEM spec (actually is the OEM supplier) is Febi G052990A2 (buy the fluid in bulk on eBay) for the 09A 5-speed and Pentosin for the 01M 4-Speed G052162A1
From what I've read the Mercon V does not meet the requirements, and as I understand it is due to the fact that the differential and the transmission share the same fluid, and could causing foaming. At the very least it would require a more frequent fluid change to prevent future damage.

Trans fill/drain and 01M filter replacement:
01M trans drain/refill filter change (Note: approx 3.5l of trans fluid is only drained. Only refreshing it 80%, leaving 20% old fluid. A second change would leave only 10% fluid etc: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-VW-Lifetime-auto-transmission-fluid-(baloney
09A Trans drain/refill:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3748902-DIY-Drain-Refill-on-09A-Tiptronic-Transmission
and
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1093467

If you only have a basic scanner use this site for codes:
http://www.autocodes.com/
also this thread: http://jettajunkie.com/vw-jetta/showthread.php?6337-OBD-Codes-Decoded.

Solenoid information:
If you want to determine specifically which solenoid it is go here (note: when one solenoid goes the rest are close to follow): http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3469274-09A-Tiptronic-Solenoid-Location-Function
The solenoid kits can be found on eBay or here: https://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_945_947_978_987 

Extra information:
09A tricky solenoid bolt fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLWKW52lM7A
http://jettajunkie.com/vw-jetta/showthread.php?18138-2004-1.8T-Jetta-Transmission-Replacement


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## Bolshevik36 (Dec 16, 2010)

Would this be the same process if I wanted to replace the WHOLE valve body?

Im having the issue where at cold starts, R is no good and it wont shift out of 1st gear. Once the car is warmed up, everything seems good. So this is really annoying, and I a have no problem dropping the $ to get a new valve body and just swap it out (i love this car).

LMK plz someone thanks!


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## Medrison (Jan 15, 2016)

*Successful Story Here - in two steps with P0778 error*

Hi, 

I am an electronics technician 52 years old and a guy that believes if somebody can do something that does not require special school or tools I can do it too. 

My car - 130k Miles, GTI 1.8T 2005 GNZ 09A Trans. Last year started not shifting from second to third gear and behaved worse with time. Changing fluid did help for 3 days after which the symptom was back. 

Bought a used trans in local dismantler for $1300 +300 install - worked fine for about 1 year and 5k miles after then it started not shifting from 1'st gear, skipping 2 gear, then 3 too.
Ordered G052990A2 fluid on ebay. The ceapest one 6- FUCHS TITAN ATF 4400 TipTronic Transmission Fluid G052990A2 G 052 990 A2 for $71/6 qts.
Ordered solenoids kit on Cobra Transmission for $239.

When all received lifted the car and start removing the trans pan using the first page procedure on this post. Not easy but doable. Most tools needed are a star screwdriver, 10mm and 13mm tools, and one big for the bottom cap.(i don't know the size)










NOT NEEDED TO REMOVE THE LEFT WHEEL - the cover in between the tire and engine comes off easily. Keeping the wheel all the way to the left leaves enough space to work.










ALSO I did not removed the filter box. I dont thinks is needed.

Drained the trans - came out 3.5 qts. That is how much I put back.

Got to solenoids - all connectors are boiled and they cracked and chipped - I recommend braking them all off (FROM THE WIRES - NOT ON THE SOLENOIDS). They might cheap later inside the transmission if not removed. The metallic connectors have their own looking pin and work fine without the plastic cover.(I am an electronic technician, remember?)

I successfully replaced N93 - you have to remove N281 and N88 and pull the wire connector off.(CAUTION - the wire connector broke on me too, but I was still able to reconnected. If cracking too bad, you might not be able to reconnect and will have to open the trans to change the whole hardness. If you not sure, you better leave N93 there unless it is the faulty one.

After replacing all solenoids. everything got back in place. It took me 3 days of work - almost full days.

TESTING THE CAR:
First thing first I got an error P0778
https://www.autocodes.com/p0778_volkswagen.html

Driving was BAD - switching rough and gears 3 to 4 going like through a stop or reverse.

Re-opening the trans I found one wire(white) that goes to N283 caught by a screw and shorted to body almost broken.
I cut it off and solder the two wires together and cover in electric tape.



















The metallic support for the harness connector was endangering of shorting with the broken pin - so I pushed it away to the left farther from the connector.



















Reassembled everything back - car run smooth like new. I can say perfect. Smooth shifting, power torque, perfect.

The second opening of trans and fix took one day up to 8 PM.

Thank you guys. You save me a lot. Long live the Internet. :wave:


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## Nitro rob (Sep 24, 2019)

Need 0740 code issues


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