# shaving bay , welding , capping , tucking need some fab ideas



## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

Hi !
i am in the process of shaving my engine bay the most i can.
i posted in Jetta/golf MK2 but thread got into 6th page in 12 hours with no replies n such ... and since its pretty much fabrication lets post it here !!!

at the moment i am pluging shut 95% of the firewall holes. and bodyfilling the whole shock towers and i am installing steel on the frame rails making them flat.
i will be running the wires by the fenders. i already welded tabs to hold the harness past the wheel well. 
Engine management , Megasquirt , is gonna pop from the passenger side , either super low on the firewall or from under the steel sheet who is gonna be on the frame rail , same area the fuel lines will pop .
coilpacks willl probably be hiding under the intake plenum .

i have most of the stuff figured out but still need to think about a few things .
Throttle cable ? anyone got an idea ?? i was thinking about getting a Westfalia throttle cable who might be long enough to be able to route it into the frame rail and pop it under the intake and i would invert my TB so we wouldnt even see it
the major wtf about the Throttle cable would be how to hold it to the pedal from inside ? i was thinking about welding a little bracket to hold the cable pointing up and a kind of pulley to transfer the front to back movement of the pedal to a vertical movement and send the cable to the frame rail. anyone got a better idea ???

Heater core ..
i live in Quebec Canada where spring and fall can get pretty cold so i need the heater. in my MK2 the last owner installed a euro MKIII instrument panel and by looking at it i had an idea.... the dash was already half way off so i took it off and looked at the core closer.... i took it out of the box and turned it 180 degrees and put it back in his housing ...hummm pretty damn interesting )))) the plastic hose fittings seems to clear the top of the box and the upward defrost vent . goes just to his rigth !!!! i am gonna be able to fit hoses there !!!!

now need to find out where to run the damn hoses ... i was thinking about running hardlines , probably copper plumbing following the rigth frame rail , would pop rigth next to the waterpump....
my main concern here is how do this need to be routed ??? so the system works and i dont screw up anything else. i would probably have to put an air bleeder valve on the plumbing close to the core also.
i also need to hard pipe my turbo cooling system . i am deleting the expansion bottle. will have a remote filler cap with a little hose going to a hidden expansion reservoir.

how should i run all thoses hoses ??? any ideas would be appreciated , drawings n such.
for the hard plumbing i might even fab my own driver side coolant head flange with fittings , could maybe do the same on the waterpump housing.

i know im nuts , but who doesnt like nuts ? (as in cashews , peanuts n stuff... pervs )

thanks for the help!!!


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

for the heater core coolant lines i went to Home Depot today and was looking for copper tubing ,, the ones in roll you can bend but couldnt get less than 30 feet and it was kinda pricey . the white house p^lumbing PVC semi flex tubing caught my attention.....
it is rated 200psi at 170F , considering the manufacturers rating are under rated for safety reasons , failsafe thing , they pretty much could handle 200 psi at like 200F. considering there isnt ever much more than 15 psi in a cooling system , and the coolant going thru those pipes wont be as hot as in the engine, i am pretty positive about it being good enough to support the task. there is tons of good affordable fittings for them , even quick connect fittings. theyre also flexible so any vibration from the chassis wouldnt hurt .
i am wondering if a 1/2" ID would be enough flow to the heater core . also , the usual fittings are going into the tubing making it slightly smaller ID ... i eyeballed about 3/8" ID at the fittings.... considering it wont run during winter it doesnt need full heating performance , just enough to warm up on a chilly night and to defrost the wondows . so wondering if it would be allrigth. the next tubing dia is 5/8 and its getting quite big and less flexible for the installation..
any thoughts ?


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## a2lowvw (Dec 17, 2000)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

if you are going through the trouble of shaving the bay and trying to shave all the firewall holes yet you wanna save money by running something that is not designed to work? why half ass the plumbing in a critical component of the car. if you are going to do it, do it right the first time..... i wouldn't trust plastic to hold up to the rigors of being in a car. honestly i would either switch to a non vw heater and run one off the smaller units that are designed for hot rod projects that can be hidden in a smaller space. run hard lines either under the plate you are putting over the passenger rail or run them through the passenger rail into the car.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

actually if you read my post this stuff is flexible , wear resistant , and designed to widstand 13 times the pressure at the coolant's running temperature . i dont understand how it could be non functionnal. i also gonna adapt the end of the hoses who are gonna show up to a stainless braided hose so dont worry about exterior elements . i migth as well ask a price for full length braided hose just to see.
and have you ever tried to run 1/2" dia copper tubing thru a car's chassis/frame without kinkin it ? and the price of every action on a car doesnt need to be high for it to work.
wouldnt trust plastic ? btw nowadays cars are half plastic. if its rated , it has been tested enough to be labeled as is. those are water heater pipes usually seeing water of about 150F at way more pressure than a coolant system .


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

pics of the shave as it is now , welding it all up tomorrow , still a few little holes to weld in the raintray


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## psychobandito (Sep 10, 2009)

be a real canadian, **** the heat, grow a beard.


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## turbinepowered (Mar 19, 2007)

Most household plumbing supplies aren't going to stand up very well to the high-vibration, high-chemical exposure environment that is under the hood of a car.
Houses don't quiver and shudder constantly, after all.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

sure will use something better where its gonna show up , like from the frame rail to the engine. im not there yet anyways , i have time to find the best materials. 
any thoughts about my Throttle cable ideas ??


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

if hard plumbing is too complicated , should i just use standard rubber coolant hoses ? theyre just a bit on the bulky side with their thickness


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

I hope you added metal to the strut tower and that isn't ALL filler.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PeOpLeG60T* »_
any thoughts about my Throttle cable ideas ??

Very nice dude. Progress looks pretty good. Like you said, figure out the bracketry, and just extend the cable with a similar braided cable, and find a suitable housing. Should work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Wiring ideas for you. This is my Corrado.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

thats where i planned to run the ligthing harness , i already welded some tabs to hold the harness past the wheel arch because the MK2 becomes a single sheet metal just past the shock , not boxed like this. what is this hole/gromet/rubber thing where the harness pokes thru ?? looks interesting. i also need to buy this exact same kind of wire loom , this is the bomb , flexible , rub resistant and slippery inside so wires go thru easy. 
yeah for the throttle cable i was thinking about maybe bicycle cable , but dont know if they sell this thing at length . because i dont know a lot of bicycles with 8 feet long brake cables







, i heard the scirocco 16v had a very long cable
im wondering where to source 3/8 " SS tubing for my turbo's coolant lines
as for the body filler thing i started the job when i didnt had a welder around. i should had added some welds and steel. i gonna dig a bit in the filler and reinforce the seams around the tower and maybe add a inch large plate fron the frame rail to the shock tower hat .... the general shape of the body filler was tricky to get but just filling come cuts will be easy to do.


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PeOpLeG60T* »_thats where i planned to run the ligthing harness , i already welded some tabs to hold the harness past the wheel arch because the MK2 becomes a single sheet metal just past the shock , not boxed like this. what is this hole/gromet/rubber thing where the harness pokes thru ?? looks interesting. i also need to buy this exact same kind of wire loom , this is the bomb , flexible , rub resistant and slippery inside so wires go thru easy. 
yeah for the throttle cable i was thinking about maybe bicycle cable , but dont know if they sell this thing at length . because i dont know a lot of bicycles with 8 feet long brake cables







, i heard the scirocco 16v had a very long cable
im wondering where to source 3/8 " SS tubing for my turbo's coolant lines
as for the body filler thing i started the job when i didnt had a welder around. i should had added some welds and steel. i gonna dig a bit in the filler and reinforce the seams around the tower and maybe add a inch large plate fron the frame rail to the shock tower hat .... the general shape of the body filler was tricky to get but just filling come cuts will be easy to do.


home depot for the cable, any good bicycle shop can get you any length in sleeve
What filler are you using in that section? not just lightweight filler


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

comes from Napa , normal duty filler , feels pretty strong to me , hardto sand.
i ground back the thickest spot and i am bulking up with steel , will cover it back with filler . i didnt had the welder when i first started . those seams are a damn bitch to weld . 
will def hit the bicycle shop for the sleeve , but i guess they also could have the wire in length ? or they just cant install the steel ends themselves so they buy pre made bike friendly length ...
for the cable , wich cable from Home Depot ? like in the fasterners area ? all i could think of now is pictureframe hanging cable , but would it rust ? would def be flexible enough to work well with tighter radius bends on the sleeve. if it is prone to rust , got any idea on non rusting wire material?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

normal filler will crack if it is more than about an 1/8th of an inch thick. You need to use a fiberglass re-enforced filler as a minimum. I would even suggest just building up the welds in that area instead of actual filler.
Quit using napa crappy filler stuff. Go to an actual paint shop and buy some evercoat products.
The cable wont rust and different than a stock one. They are just extruded steel anyways. Grease the cable and sleeves properly and dont worry about it.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

extruded steel ? the oem is kinda made of spun wire , what do you mean ? 

it sucks quite bad that i used the wrong filler.... i dont want this **** to crack !!!! i think i gonna just grind the thickest parts off and get some better stuff in there. i sure dont want any friggin cracks. first time shaving a bay... so i build it up a bit with steel and fiber filler...
damn , i hate to do stuff twice ! but gotta do it right! 
does most of the body shops do sell materials ? im in montreal where should i go ? any body repair shop !


_Modified by PeOpLeG60T at 1:45 AM 3-28-2010_


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## psychobandito (Sep 10, 2009)

i'll let you know where we buy our stuff tomorrow


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (psychobandito)*

cool ! , thanks alot


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PeOpLeG60T* »_extruded steel ? the oem is kinda made of spun wire , what do you mean ? 

it sucks quite bad that i used the wrong filler.... i dont want this **** to crack !!!! i think i gonna just grind the thickest parts off and get some better stuff in there. i sure dont want any friggin cracks. first time shaving a bay... so i build it up a bit with steel and fiber filler...
damn , i hate to do stuff twice ! but gotta do it right! 
does most of the body shops do sell materials ? im in montreal where should i go ? any body repair shop !


paint supply stores, not body shop


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

okay thats what i thought , only been in Montreal for a year now , just started the project , no clue where to get sh** around here hehehehe 
Psychobandito , are you getting the stuff from CMAX ?


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

okay so im done with plugging the holes shut , gonna make them look clean now.
i broke/ground the areas where there was more than 1/8" of filler , added some steel and welds then gonna repack with fiber filler and finish with lighter filler.








and while i was there i notched my frame because im lowered and i once saw a circular mark on the axle so i guess it was a contact with the frame rail so i took the grinder and the welder to fab this up. i used a 2.5" pipe half


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif on the notch


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## mcdub (Jun 19, 2005)

x2 sick notch


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (mcdub)*

okay i didnt had much time to spend in the garage but here i am
my fuel lines are gonna run semi enclosed between the frame rail and a little baffle i will make or something. now need to close the big hole in the fender , i had forgot about this one hehe. 
not totally fixed on the way i gonna finish the plates.... was thinking maybe cap the vertical sides but would probably look too flat and square ....
i sourced bicycle sleeve by the foot , 2$/foot , and tandem bike brake cable who is 3 meters long for 7$ i should have enough , just need to figure out how to fasten some end piece to hook up the Throttle and pedal.
maybe i could make some kinda mold drilling into a little mdf block with the usual Throttle cable end thingy and drill a small hole for the cable , put it in and fill it with melted metal to cast mu own directly on the cable...
pic


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

You can run the fuel lines up along side the frame rail instead of through it. Just use proper heat shielding.
Personally I would leave them coming through the stock area.
For how to do the frame rails the rest of the way have a look at this:








For the throttle cable bracket you are over thinking things. You obviously know how to weld. Just build a bracket that sits near the pedal that holds the cable


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

so you just hammered the sheet with some cuts along the curve ? as for making the fuel lines go into the frame rail i am worried about the plastic to rubber junction , if i ever have a leak i wont be able to go fix it if its enclosed so i need to think twice .
for the throttle cable the major thing is i wont be able to use the factory cable because of the length so i need to improvise .
im still thinking about my turbo cooling setup , would it work to run coolant from the driver side flange , to the turbo , turbo to heater core , core to water pump ? would it flow correctly ? 
nice rails btw


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Rails are a Friend's but mine are being done the same way.
I would have left the throttle cable hole on the firewall. Not like you are getting rid of the master cyls and booster too.
Are you keeping the heater core? Looks like you shaved the holes already for it.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

heater core is inverted in the airbox , i gonna run lines thru the frame rail








yeah i know i should have left the throttle there but whatever , its gonna be awesome


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *PeOpLeG60T* »_heater core is inverted in the airbox , i gonna run lines thru the frame rail








yeah i know i should have left the throttle there but whatever , its gonna be awesome


Ah, same thing I did. I wouldn't run the lines in the rail though. Just a bulkhead fitting low on the firewall.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

bulkhead could be a good idea , just next to the engine mount , a hose could crawl nextto the oilpan would be alot simpler. 
do you think this would be right ?? in AN-6 
driver side flange , to the turbo , turbo to heater core , core to water pump ?


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

-8 AN or -10 for the heater core. I would have to measure.


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## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

My suggestion it to trim the sheet to the edge, then weld and grind it. It will give you a crisp line. Just my preference.

Mine.
















I really don't have any good views with a quality camera, but here is one.








found a few more....


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (Forty-six and 2)*

nice job man , looks good !! 
i just realised i could pull the fuel lines from the floor !!! and make them go somewhere else so i keep the clean and enclosed rail look.
i took off the subframe finally and i should have done this long ago !!! but a damn threaded block spun into the frame so i had to butcher a hole and take it out...
since my plate was pretty thick i made multiple cuts and hammered the tabs down , its not as straigth as i wanted but there is still stuff to hammer flat . i gonna cut the tabs evenly and then weld them and apply fiber filler and make it look cute
my mouth tastes like burning metal ....


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

okay so it looks messy but this fiber putty is sticky **** ! 
this is what i done tonight , will sand tomorrow its getting late


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

Holy crap... I would hate to have to sand that... Bring out the 40 grit!
Next time lay off the duraglass filler. You don't need it over everything just parts that you are worried about pinholes ETC.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

*Re: (TheBurninator)*

donc worry i got paper and orbital but yeah i guess i could have used lighter filler but i didnt had enough to fill everything and do the finition with the can i had , and would have wasted the glass filler who is twice the price.... at least i used it at places i can reach with powertools and been real carefull to spread it clean at hard to reach areas ... anyways, i hate body work

need to save some money for the AN fittings and new clutch anyways ... they gonna cost me an arm and a half


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

actually wasnt this bad to sand with a 80 grit on an orbital. the edges of the frame rails do not look good enough yet , a friend is gonna help me for the finition with lighter filler and patience .
this aft's work


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## famousken (Aug 26, 2009)

http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=535
Throttle cable. Its universal and you can cut it to size. I wouldn't use a brake cable from a bike. they are way too thin, take a look at the oem cable and compare them to a bike cable. The oem cable is twice as thick and probably 4 times as strong. There is also a company that makes a hydrolic throttle setup, if that sounds interesting I can try to find it.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

hydraulic throttle ? woah seems way too much complicated 
as for strength i apply about 20 times the force on my bicyle brake cable than the force i need to apply to counter the TB's spring, thanks for the link i will look at it now
Edit : just checked the website and it looks too flashy for my setup and will have difficulty to mount it in an awkward way at the pedals , bike cable is way more flexible so i can make sharper turns where i need 


_Modified by PeOpLeG60T at 12:52 AM 4-21-2010_


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## famousken (Aug 26, 2009)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

Thats what I thought. I have a 68 bug I swapped a 2.0 into and had to lengthen the throttle cable. I used a bike cable/sheith and it broke in about 2 weeks. I replaced it, a few weeks later it broke again.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

humm , where was it breaking ? random area ? the cable i found is stainless and very very flexible , i remember seeing cheaper cable who were way more stiff , lot less wires in em would probably break faster with fatigue. what type bike cable had you ?


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## GTijoejoe (Oct 6, 2001)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*

This is some great work...awesome information


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## famousken (Aug 26, 2009)

*Re: (PeOpLeG60T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PeOpLeG60T* »_humm , where was it breaking ? random area ? the cable i found is stainless and very very flexible , i remember seeing cheaper cable who were way more stiff , lot less wires in em would probably break faster with fatigue. what type bike cable had you ?

Your probably right, it was some really cheap cable from walmart, not real flexible, kinda looked like speaker wire made of steel. I ended up getting some stainless aircraft cable from the hardware store and used a sheith I found at the junkyard, 2 years and so far so good!


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

so the project went a bit on standby .... crazy life !!!


here some update , still on the engine bay but things are coming along nicely


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## EL CAPO (Feb 7, 2010)

NICE WORK...

KEEP IT UP DUDE... :thumbup:


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## g6raddo (Sep 16, 2004)

keep this up mann im shavin mine too and i have seen alot of good ideas with this thread..


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## Notabora2 (Dec 24, 2002)

Same here! Keep up the good work. Cant wait to see the final product! Wish I was there. I'd help you everyday!


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## Bthornton10 (Apr 27, 2008)

Looks Great!:thumbup: I will be shaving my mk3 GTI this winter and my friends Del Sol.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

the project hibernated (during the summer , was too busy... and the body work guy who started to help me never friggin showed up to help me finish the job when he told me he would...) but now i found another experienced body work guy who is gonna help me finish this sheit bay up finally ... letting me start the real work , the swap and the various modifications who are gonna be needed to hide everything. 

i am on the looks for a used wilwood or Tilton or anything floormount to delete the damn brake booster and hide the clutch cylinder as well . this will give me a TOTAL shave and also a different feel on the brakes hehehe. the cylinders and pedal ratio WILL be calculated in order to provide me a safe braking power dont worry !!! at the moment the cheapest i could find new was about 300$ + ship + duties because as we know all the damn performance parts are from the US and i live in Canada .... so it would end up costing me over 400$ wich i can't afford..... so i am on the hunt for a used set . can come from any other kind of project but needs to be floor mount or hanging down. 


i think im pushing it too far with the shave but hummm ... its gonna be hot as balls


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## V-GTI-R (Apr 30, 2005)

what size sheet metal are you using?


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

i took whats hangin in the garage but was way overkill 1/16" the firewall's thickness is like 1/64" was a bit hard to weld together


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## Agtronic (May 14, 2001)

Nice work OLI! :thumbup:


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## V-GTI-R (Apr 30, 2005)

what are you using to cut ?


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

thanks Mark ! keep your eyes open if you see a set of pedals for me !! i'll try to come hang out a bit this friday if your not out for lunch. im driving past your shop twice a week actually , if you need stuff to be delivered in the city just gimme a shout


i used a normal grinder with cutting disks. hell of a job for this thickness to prep all the round caps for all the holes in the firewall . there is more than you think just have a look hah ! i think i capped 16 or 17 holes ..... was thick but since i had it i used it but next time ill make sure to have a few different thicknesses . this was good forthe frame rails , this wont move at all , sturdy enough! 

im supposed to have help this weekend to finish up this love bucket . i hope it will show up !!! wish me luck :banghead:


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## V-GTI-R (Apr 30, 2005)

I'm using*a*sheet*metal which is about 2 gauges thinner then yours And im also cutting it with a cutting disc on a grinder. I thought it was too thick to use which why I asked you what were you using but after what you told me I guess I'll continuing using it. Thanks for the input.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

im not a pro fabricator heh do what i can

would have been nice to have a set of punches with a 20 ton press available to cut those caps !!!!

i guess i am cursed .... this guy is ditching me this weekend because he got something else important and next weekend is Halloween soo... meh...


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## thatGTIguy (Feb 2, 2010)

here is an idea for you...

I've been kicking around the idea for a few years now....

Has anyone thought of re-locating the battery in the raintray area like Audi?

Can this be done.... any thoughts...


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

thatGTIguy said:


> here is an idea for you...
> 
> I've been kicking around the idea for a few years now....
> 
> ...


 sure. cut and weld.


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## thatGTIguy (Feb 2, 2010)

syracusegli said:


> sure. cut and weld.


 yes but has anyone done this ?? Pics Pls...


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## AKrett (Dec 18, 2001)

but why go through all the work to shave the bay, then keep the battery in it?


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## AKrett (Dec 18, 2001)

Here is mine. I got rid of the heater and flattened the hump in the center of the rain tray.


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## JUS_GT_EYEZ (Nov 12, 2001)

Throttle cable.. 


http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=THROTTLECABLE

:beer:


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

this engine bay looks awesome !

thanks for the throttle link , it could be pretty helpfull for further headaches

project stalled due to a new job taking most of my life and a girlfriend to take care off... lol 

finally got some more help and we are ready to prime the f&$ker up ...


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## Asmahaas (Jul 7, 2010)

Hi nice build i wana do the same to my mk1 but how do one lose the speedocable?


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

hehe you must custom engineer it , its not deleted it's re-engineered to be hidden


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

PIC UPDATE!!!


this damn engine bay came a long way , 2 first coats of primer , showed up all the millions pinholes and other defects who will need further sanding .... ughh how hard on the morale  ... i hate body work , i dont know how many times i will ask myself why i steppedin this kinda project.... trust me it wont happen again LOL. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :beer: :beer: :beer:

at least now it can sleep outdoors while i do some other things ..... my daily needs some fixin heh.


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## V-GTI-R (Apr 30, 2005)

What kind of fiberglass bodyfiller you used?


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

get a large tip/needle in your paint gun and shoot "high build" primer. its like liquid bondo! lol then block it out lightly with some 440 grit just to flatten the orange peel and base coat it.

higbuild primer is your best friend.


NOT the **** in the rattle can from Duplacolor... that stuff sucks. get autobody grade stuff and do it right, night and day difference.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

the thing is some laws passed in last june about those paints and i couldnt get high build stuff , ill go around body shops to try to buy some if they stocked enough


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

laws passed? where you live? do you have the waterbased paints too? 

order some offline?


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

yeah everything must be water based and those paints sucks 

im in Quebec , Canada

i dont know lots about paint but i know i couldnt get high build from the places i called at 

first coats are PPG products , would need to get compatible stuff , i will write down the product codes later if anyone knows stuff who could help me


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## syracusegli (Jan 22, 2005)

what did you use on those first coats?

pretty much, you can sand down whatever you have now with 180 and lay a nice coat of the high build primer right over it..any brand, wont matter.

Does Eastwood ship to canada? if they dont, hell, ill ship to you.


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## PeOpLeG60T (Jul 5, 2004)

yeah everything must be water based and those paints sucks 

im in Quebec , Canada

i dont know lots about paint but i know i couldnt get high build from the places i called at 

first coats are PPG products , would need to get compatible stuff , i will write down the product codes later if anyone knows stuff who could help me


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