# DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

Well I figure it's about time someone make a DIY for this type of stuff. Only reason I decided to do it was because it was my buddy's turn to get the treatment and I told him to bust out the cam and take some mad pics. This guide will be divided into phases. Phase 1 is removing the N249 and SAI. Phase 2 will be the PCV and 3 the EVAP or vice versa, whatever I do first








*edit* Thanks to j0hnnybmx for the sweet shots and lettin me use his car as a gerbil








Let's start by making some room. Get your intake/airbox out of the way and MAF. The more room you have to work with the easier this will be. Also if your engine covers are on remove them. Here's a pic of the engine bay before we started:








Get a ratchet and a 10mm socket and remove the two nuts on top of the N249 bracket as shown below:








Next, use either an allen drive or wrench in 5.5mm and unbolt the bracket from the manifold:








Unclip the longer half of the pump to combi valve crinkle hose. You push on the rough tabs and the sides will pop off.
Now you can swing that hose over to the passenger side out of the way since you unclipped it and unbolted it from the N249 bracket. Now, get your snips out and start cutting off the vac hoses going to the N249 on the driver side:








You'll cut 3 and then the 4th goes to the manifold. Now, if you can, unclip both harnesses under the bracket. Both should be visible:








Turn the bracket over and there is another 10mm nut holding the other crinkle hose on. Once you have this off, the bracket should be free.








**If you plan to run your engine cover still...just remove all the pieces on the underside of the bracket. When you're done with the removal process, you can bolt the bracket back onto the mani and still have the mounting holes for your cover.**
Next, unbolt the vac reservoir from it's bracket and also unbolt the bracket. 10mm nut and 5.5mm allen screws.
















Now pull...also remove your DV vac line:
















This next step is optional and depends on what you wanna do. You can leave the combi valve and vac line hardlines on the car and just plug the hose with something. Here is a pic of where the vac lines go to:








But, if you wanna remove it all, you'll need some coolant. In order to get the combi valve off, you need to unbolt a hard coolant hose from the block and pull it away and down.
























There are 2 nuts holding on that coolant line. You WILL lose coolant which is why you'll want to have some when you're done to refill the system.
Now, there is a vac line that runs into those hardlines and also goes down to the bottom of your turbo inlet hose/pipe. Cut that line off.








The combi valve bolts to the hardlines via a bracket with a 10mm bolt. Also, the biggest bitch are two plastic clips that hold the coilpack harnesses onto it. Get em out whatever way necessary. After all this and getting the bolts out of the block, you'll have this:








Now pull those hardlines out.
















Best bet now is to get a SAI Blockoff Plate from Integrated Engineering. Bolt it on, and then bolt the coolant hard hose back to the block making sure it's tight and flush.








Now for one of the harder parts. Best bet will be to have an 8mm allen drive and a universal joint on a 3/8" ratchet. Use a 10mm socket and unbolt the pump from the bracket from under the car. If you're lucky, you'll be able to pull the pump out of the bracket as is. But if not, you have to unbolt the bracket from the block using the 8mm allen drives. Here's what the bracket looks like and the placement of the bolts.
















Once you have this off, if you got a resistor (10W 330ohm), just slice the covering off both these wires for the pump harness and connect the resistor to the wires whichever way you see fit. The resistor is not directional either. This will keep you from having a "pump missing" CEL, however you will still probably get the improper flow one.








And here is what the engine bay looks like after.








Now all that's left to do is route 2 new vac lines. That one you cut that goes to the bottom of your TIP, take it off and run a new line all the way up to right by the intake manifold. You woulda cut the line going across the intake mani to pull those hardlines off. It will connect to a silver hardline that runs across the intake manifold. Run another line from the DV to that open port on the bottom of the intake manifold. Remember the 4th line you cut from the N249? Connect it to that port. Then, you're done. You can bolt that bracket back up to run the engine cover if you so please.
---------------------------------------
*EVAP REMOVAL*
Sorry I do not have AS MANY pics of this removal as Johnny pulled it all himself but I'll be as detailed as I can. It's very very easy to remove compared to taking off the SAI and N249 stuff.
First...look at your throttle body. It has a vac line on top. Pull that off. You can either put a rubber cap over it or you can use it as a vac/boost source (say for a DV) if you ever need one. Follow the lines down and you'll notice you have a hose connected to one of two hardlines that run across the intake manifold. I talked about this at the end of the SAI/N249 removal. On the driver side, you connected a vac line from the bottom of your turbo inlet hose to this hardline. Now you see, it runs across and connects to the EVAP system. What you can now do is just remove that line from your TIP and put a cap over the port down by the turbo. The remaining hardline on the manifold can't come off. Why? It's welded to another hardline for coolant...so you can either edit that however you want or be creative with anything else you have that uses vac and connect hoses to it.
So you pulled the vac lines off the throttle body and the hardline across the intake manifold. Now follow em over behind the power steering reservoir and unplug the harness. Slip the rubber piece off the bracket that is bolted to the fender. The lines go around the back of the coolant reservoir and drop down into a plastic canister. You can just unplug them. They use a special quick disconnect. Push a lil button and they pop off. Don't undo the fuel lines tho.
Now the only thing left that's holding all that stuff on is the blue balls under the passenger fender. Raise the car, remove fender liner...and there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold the blue balls up there. Get em off and the line comes off with it. You should be left with this:
















Now all that is left are those white lines that are sticking out the top of the container in the back of the engine bay. Get under the passenger side of the car and start unclipping them from the underbody. The white ones ONLY. The black/blue are fuel. Go all the way back to near the fuel filter by the rear wheel. Just disconnect the fittings, and then pull the white lines from the front of the car down and out. You may have to pop the black cover off the top of the canister to properly get those lines out. It's kinda hard to pop off without breaking it but...w/e. And that's it. EVAP is gone. Put a 330ohm resistor on the harness and you shouldn't throw a code. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
---------------------------------------
*PCV EDIT*
The stock PCV system is used to remove pressure from the motor when you're driving it hard. It does this with a variety of vac sources all around the engine bay. If you edit all this out, and make one strong vac connection, that's all you need. All those other ones are safegaurds incase of failure, IMHO. The PCV system also allows oil and condensation into your charge pipes. So the main point of this edit is adding a catch can to trap this oil and condensation, while still allowing for pressure release.
Best possible way to get all this done is to remove the intake manifold. EVERYTHING is under there for the most part, so just have at it. Here's a pic of all the pieces (some may be missing) that I pulled out:








The brake booster line that comes over by the driver side and attaches to the big port on the mani can be edited since you no longer need that Y rubber hose on it. Just get some fuel line hose to slip over it and reattach to the mani.
Now, everything is out of the way, so start using OEM + Home Depot. I used the plastic elbow out of the filter housing, than a brass reducer, to some hose, then a plastic T from the HELP! section at an auto parts store.








For the valve cover, I happened to have a piece of preformed coolant hose that was bent and had a long straight section. I put a brass reducer in there, and tied it into the T you see above.








The outlet of the T runs around under some stuff to keep it looking clean, and up into the catch can. The outlet of the catch can then gets run to the inlet pipe (or hose if you've got one) for the constant vac source.








As you can see, I caught alot of moisture/condensation, and a small amount of oil within a few weeks of driving. Below is a simple MS Paint sketch of the setup. This is to just give you the general idea of how to run your lines. In no way am I saying to use the EXACT pieces I did, b/c you may find something that works better or looks nicer.








Now that you're done, you have two extra vac/boost ports on your intake mani. You can either utilize these for anything you may have, or just cap them off.
*Edit:*
Some other notes for you guys looking to do this. You can put resistors in both n249 harnesses you unplugged to keep the CEL from popping up. Also, there are a few benefits to removing all this stuff. First off, it makes room in the engine bay so when you're working on more important things, you have less hoses and sensors and such in the way. Another nice thing is you learn more about what goes where and how this and that works. Total system weight of the SAI is about 7lbs. If you live somewhere that doesn't have echeck, there is no need for the SAI. All it does is heat up the cat during cold start. The N249 uses a vac boosting solenoid or w/e to help activate some of your parts that use vac such as your DV. Well if the solenoid fails, you're gonna have vac issues. By connecting a vac line directly to the manifold from the DV, you'll have true vac and quicker response.
Editing the PCV just makes some more room and simplifies what the system actually does. The EVAP is also for emissions, and removing it gives ya another vac source on your manifold.
*CONCLUSION:*
Now that this DIY is complete, I'll show you a pic of Jen's engine bay.








To some this may look like an even bigger cluster, but I know where every line goes and why it's there. I have my boost gauge, boost controller, water/meth, DV, and FPR all ported to the intake manifold. There are no spare sources laying around. I'm catching all the condensation/oil in a can instead of putting it through the turbo and IC pipes. The small price to pay is 2 CELs for an EVAP improper flow and SAI improper flow.

_Modified by SAVwKO at 8:10 PM 4-24-2007_


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## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

thank you


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## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

I'm going to do this when it gets warmer.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (PolskiHetzen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PolskiHetzen* »_I'm going to do this when it gets warmer. 

get a torpedo heater


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

Still looks like a mess


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## PolskiHetzen (Apr 25, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
get a torpedo heater









meh








How long did it take you to do this? My engine bay is like halfway there right now.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (16plus4v)*

lol yea well...it certainly gets rid of some hoses that are in the way. Easier to work on the engine knowing there's 2 less systems that need to be there.
Like an hour and a half.


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I suppose all your new hardware will be hiding the rest huh ?


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## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

tomorrow hopefully i'll be getting around to take some more uh, 'engine put back together' pictures. it really does look a lot cleaner without all of that stuff there. it just takes a few zipties to make everything look complete and organized. i'll also try and get clear shots of the new routing for the vac lines.


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## axlekiller (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

You know you can take pics of the parts without the ugly ass OP in the pics?







Good stuff though, now I don't have to explain it anymore.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (axlekiller)*

You're welcome ass







Now your relief is just a link away


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## mirror (Dec 18, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

dude...rubber gloves are your friend. nice write up slim. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (mirror)*

what about n249 codes? was it ever found out about fuel trims and the n249?


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

ps what are the 2 relays above the brake res. in that plastic box. are the secondary air related? i took them apart and put them in the wire track next to it.


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## autobahn1.8t (Jun 9, 2005)

nice


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

Just did this to our jetta. Took me longer then i thought it would. Man VW use's a bunch of crap lol... But it sure does free up alot of room.. Now remove the coolant resivor


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_ps what are the 2 relays above the brake res. in that plastic box. are the secondary air related? i took them apart and put them in the wire track next to it.

yeah 1 is for the sec air and 1 for abs i believe.. I put them in my rain tray too..
Oh and buy latex nitril gloves... I bought a 10 box on ebay lol... I love gloves best thing ever


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## bad_news (Oct 26, 2006)

awesome stuff. 

torpedo heaters are the bomb!


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## RussellsGTI (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (PolskiHetzen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PolskiHetzen* »_I'm going to do this when it gets warmer. 

def x2, no garage....but very nice write up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Maxpowerz (Feb 9, 2004)

sweet


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Without the secondary air you're not gonna pass CA smog. Just FYI


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## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (groggory)*


_Quote, originally posted by *groggory* »_Without the secondary air you're not gonna pass CA smog. Just FYI
He doesn't have emmisons lol... in cali u have a air filter u wont pass


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## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_He doesn't have emmisons lol... in cali u have a air filter u wont pass

Yep, that's right here in Youngstown we have bigger things to worry about than a few people not passing emissions








CAP CAP POP POP YER DEAD!!
I might buy some colored vacuum tube and replace it with the new lines that i ran to make it more visible as to which ones go where







Most of the attention goes to Mikes/Jens car this week/all next week, though.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_what about n249 codes? was it ever found out about fuel trims and the n249?

sam resistors.


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Good writeup, for sure! I wish I wasn't moving to california.







well actually I don't, becuase college is going to be fun. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## roly (Feb 2, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_










Daddy????


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (roly)*

Damnit you figured it out. Just an FYI your mom is amazing.


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## 18JettaPower (Oct 24, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_Good writeup, for sure! I wish I wasn't moving to california.







well actually I don't, becuase college is going to be fun. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

If you take your car to California with Michagain Plates on it you dont have to take an emmission test! FYI


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## Chitownsfinest (Dec 6, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Mike you are one piece of sexy man meat... Good write upo BTW... You poping any CEL's after all this was taken off?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Chitownsfinest)*

Yea you'll get an improper flow code for the SAI not there. Resistors will keep the n249 cel's from poppin.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (roly)*


_Quote, originally posted by *roly* »_
Daddy????

















so you are still into gay porn...oh well...


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## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

lol


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## roly (Feb 2, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (18T_BT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18T_BT* »_
so you are still into gay porn...oh well...






























well, since the Russians think normal hetero porn is gay, then yes I am.


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## fast_a2_20v (Jun 25, 2004)

One thing to note, on some motors, especially ones with leaky cam tensioner gaskets, the area around the SAI flange is pretty damn grimey... This area should be cleaned well before bolting the blockoff plate on. If it does not sit flush up against the head do to debris, the O ring will not get the proper amount of crush and may not seal. 
I haven't heard of any not sealing but lets just keep things clean and keep it that way. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
-Pete


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## igotaprestent4u (Nov 2, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

mike u have any extra resistors for when i come up?


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## Tetzuoe (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

Sav finally perfected his "look i tore your heart out noob" pose..
10w resistor? sounds like a lot of current is shooting through that motor, dont forget to wrap stuff in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing when you install that thing, you dont want stuff shorting to ground.


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## ryanvw (Feb 27, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

another sweet write up from SAVwKO!!! good work man!!


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## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *j0hnnybmx* »_Most of the attention goes to Mikes/Jens car this week/all next week, though.

attention may be there but i will have cool points. 
oh whats that chick driving? just another heavy mk4 w/ a b.t.















damn johnny, i should have stolen that from you while i was picking the engine up so i could have machined myself one while you didnt need it then gave it back when you brought my manifold up. guess i will have to order one tomorrow.


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## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: (.skully.)*

Nice thread, looking forward to see what you do with the EVAP system as i've binned mine and keep gettin N80 unplugged codes.
For some reason i dont get a CEL from ditching the SAI, just the incorrect flow now and again.
As for the N249, my N112 valve are still connected electrically to stop it throwing codes.


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## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: (.skully.)*


_Quote, originally posted by *.skully.* »_attention may be there but i will have cool points. 
oh whats that chick driving? just another heavy mk4 w/ a b.t.















damn johnny, i should have stolen that from you while i was picking the engine up so i could have machined myself one while you didnt need it then gave it back when you brought my manifold up. guess i will have to order one tomorrow.

dave, i can give you the gasket that is the same shape and you can machine a piece from that, if you would like. that's what people did before this was avalaible for people to buy.
and yeah, your car is definatelly going to be SUPER unique. I can't wait for it


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Tetzuoe)*

got pics in here of how i cleaned my bay up.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3025888


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## Tetzuoe (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_got pics in here of how i cleaned my bay up.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3025888

lol, you need a pic of you holding those "extraneous parts" over you head


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Tetzuoe)*

i got a box of them lol


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*

One question...








Is this "look" Blue Steel? ....or Magnum?















Great write-up, bro. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
haha. fixed. 


_Modified by inivid at 11:40 AM 3-7-2007_


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (inivid)*








Is it bad I don't get the question? ...I'll just







along anyways


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## Durbo20vT (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

^^ it's from Zoolander...


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Durbo20vT)*

Ya, pardon my dry sense of humor.








Anyway, is there any real positive effect from removing all of that? I've never quite understood the positives vs the negatives. 
Is boost responce and recovery quicker, steadier, or more consistant? If so, has it been proven via logs? 
If there is no REAL positive, is removing all of that mostly a "cosmetic procedure" for dressing up the engine bay? I'm sorry, prehaps I really need to go back in the archives and research this, but at the moment I fail to see the performance value of this.


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## VW1990CORRADO (Sep 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (inivid)*

all that crap is prone to failure.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_all that crap is prone to failure.

That and it's weight, and also makes it easier to work on the motor with less lines everywhere. If you don't remove the SAI, I'd atleast do the N249.


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*

What's the failure rate and what are the circumstances underwhich they are "most" prone to fail?
Of course, I'm still looking up info, but I just thought I'd throw that out there.


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VW1990CORRADO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW1990CORRADO* »_all that crap is prone to failure.

that's a very general statement...your car can break also


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (18T_BT)*

Regarding the N249, from what I can tell, failure is predominantly caused by or related to debris buildup. Performance benefits from removing it are inconclusive, based on the threads I've just gone over in the archives.
I'm going to research the SAI next, as I don't completely understand that either.
Perhaps it would be of benefit to this DYI to have the performance benefits, if any or if none, explained as well.










_Modified by inivid at 2:55 PM 3-7-2007_


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (inivid)*


_Quote, originally posted by *inivid* »_.
I'm going to research the SAI next, as I don't completely understand that either.


the SAI has nothing to do with performance, it's an emissions item...


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## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (18T_BT)*

Any idea when the next update will be?
Really wanna find out the solution to the EVAP.


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (PhilW)*

This weekend probably.


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

looking forward to it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## black2001aww (Sep 30, 2001)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (inivid)*

That's a bad ass write up. Got me thinkin' now, christ, like I don't have enough to do with the Golf and two TTs! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Weight reduction if you're looking for an excuse?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (black2001aww)*

Lol definitely! The SAI weighs like 7-8lbs total I think? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_This weekend probably.

we doing evap on jens car or mine?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (j0hnnybmx)*

We'll pull it on hers first since the engine will be gone...that way I don't screw it up on yours after.


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## IFIWASINMYVW (Mar 20, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Nice write up sav... you beat me to it.... I'm still curious if anyone has had success with resistors for the SAI code...


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## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_We'll pull it on hers first since the engine will be gone...that way I don't screw it up on yours after.









then when everything is aok on johnnys i'll do it to mine b4 i install the engine this week http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## xechcorx (Nov 24, 2003)

You need to note at the very beginning of this thread, that this "mod" will set the CEL, and can definitely cause the car to run inefficiently. Your ECU is still going to be expecting the air from the pump that is no longer running. Yes its not setting a light for "My pump is missing" but it still expects the air from the pump. Sure the air pumps fail, and in your area this is not a concern, but with all the lemmings on the internet there will be way too many butchered cars. To make this a real "MOD" you need to reprogram your ECU so that it knows its missing systems and does not expect components to be there. Na meen?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (xechcorx)*

BUt uh the pump is only running during cold start. It never runs once the car is warmed up.


----------



## skydaman (Dec 16, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Great writeup and good pics!








I took all this crap out awhile ago, it makes it quite a bit easier to work on the car and looks much cleaner. Just pop the hood and start working rather than spend an hour getting stuff out of the way before you can start working. As mentioned yes codes will be thrown and you may not pass emissions if you have such a thing where you live.


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Just jumping the gun here but what resistor would i need to stop the N80 CEL light from removing the carbon cannister?
Thanks.


----------



## gls:maverick (Oct 18, 2005)

*Re: (PhilW)*

Pics not working anymore??? DAMN I wanted to print this out!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (gls:maverick)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gls:maverick* »_Pics not working anymore??? DAMN I wanted to print this out!

something is up with the host and vortex, as you can copy paste the URL into a new window browser and you'll see the picts still work


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (18T_BT)*

w/o all this crap would you have better or worse vacuum, or would it stay the same. Just a thought to ponder thats all


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theswoleguy* »_w/o all this crap would you have better or worse vacuum, or would it stay the same. Just a thought to ponder thats all

mine stayed the same, but the dv opens up much better...


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_
mine stayed the same, but the dv opens up much better...
 safe to assume the reason would be bc your supplying vacuum to 3 components versus 50?


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

heres a pic i put together so people can see what to remove when they do the sai..


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

Just realized all the pics I think are on my buddy's host, not mine.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Just realized all the pics I think are on my buddy's host, not mine.








 i have a question for Mike or 02VW1.8t, i feel it belongs here instead of another post since it deals with this stuff...
Anyway, question is, The Vac resi on top #4 going to the hard pipe, and the line that came off a hard pipe to the DV. Where does this hard pipe hook up at in the front? Bc i have them capped on the other end ( i removed the Vac Res and ran a new line for DV), and theres really no reason the have a soft line attached to the other side if its capped and can remove the soft line feeding it.
I think Mike had a pic with the lines color coded with outputs. Im at work so its probably in this post but Pics are blocked from websites like photobucket, imageshack, and such like myspace... damn govt comp.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Just owned Gov't comp/filter servers
 
edited for you







thanks Mike you went around it unfiltered. So i can study now and do that tonight.


----------



## mikerosoft (Mar 20, 2004)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*

I wish the pictures still worked on the first page.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (mikerosoft)*

I'll get em back for ya guys.


----------



## mikerosoft (Mar 20, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

Awesome. I've been wanting to do this for so long! Maybe add a 'materials needed' part? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

so you can remove the blue balls


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

i reploaded all the pictured to a more reliable server.. i woud add them, but i can't edit savs post.. i'm going to do evap removal this weekend, since i helped sav do his... so i'll post pictures and add the writeup to this thread... 
EDIT: here the pictures are in the order that they were taken.. so you can kinda see what's going on. 
http://thefallingbrand.com/diy1.html


_Modified by j0hnnybmx at 9:47 PM 3-14-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*

Yea EVAP is pretty easy...in short, pull the vac line off the TB, follow it to the fender area and unplug the harness. Remove your fenderliner and unbolt the blue balls and pull the vac line. Unclip the lines that go down into that plastic cover thing. Get under the car and start unclipping the white plastic lines all the way to the back of the car and just unclip them from their connectors by the fuel filter area. Then pull the lines out of the engine bay from underneath the car. Voila!


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

EVAP is easy to dicth, just need a resistor now to stop the CEL.


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *j0hnnybmx* »_SAVwKO and j0hnnybmx are the **** for real. VWVortex is not that cool

true that except that you and savko arent the **** for real










_Modified by .skully. at 2:20 PM 3-15-2007_


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (.skully.)*

wish i wasnt moving to california. i'd rip ALL that stuff out...


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Bump...got the pics working again and added a few notes to the OP.


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

you need to finish this savko seeing how you have nothing better to do in class for he next 3 hours


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (.skully.)*

I'll see what I can do. Johnny's got some pics floatin around I'll see what I can do with them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

EVAP removal done. PCV maybe this week?


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_PCV maybe this week?

Please do


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

So just to clearify. After doing all of this you may end-up with a few CELs but if you install the resiters you will still pass all the readiness codes? I can live with clearing CELs every once in a while but i still gotta pass OBDII emissions. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for a good DIY


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Levi20AE)*

The only CEL that will keep popping up is the one for the 2ndary air injection. Even tho you have a resistor on the harness, that resistor has nothing to do with the code thrown. One of the o2 sensors throws it because it sees that the cat isn't being heated up since you don't have a pump on. So, remove everything but the SAI I guess.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

What if your catless, the 2ndary O2 will be heated almost instantly well ok not that fast but a lot quicker think it would still toss it? If you have a test pipe in you will notice the SAI kicks on for a lot shorter time.
Also the incorrect flow code, does that mean air flow or current flow? if its current a diode might work right?


_Modified by theswoleguy at 7:07 PM 3-26-2007_


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Thanks for the updated, i'm gonna buy a load of 330ohm 10 watt resistors this week to sort out my CEL.


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (PhilW)*

I run no cat now i just use the spacer and havent had any issues so i may try just unplugging the SAI and putting in the resister before i remove anything


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (theswoleguy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theswoleguy* »_What if your catless, the 2ndary O2 will be heated almost instantly well ok not that fast but a lot quicker think it would still toss it? If you have a test pipe in you will notice the SAI kicks on for a lot shorter time.
Also the incorrect flow code, does that mean air flow or current flow? if its current a diode might work right?

_Modified by theswoleguy at 7:07 PM 3-26-2007_

No...the amount of air the SAI pump injects into the exhaust is so high that the mixture of air/exhaust is incredibly "lean." The only way around it is hacking into the ECU with VAG and knowing the right readiness code to bypass it altogether.
And incorrect flow means air.


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

and you dont know how to do this bc?


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
No...the amount of air the SAI pump injects into the exhaust is so high that the mixture of air/exhaust is incredibly "lean." The only way around it is hacking into the ECU with VAG and knowing the right readiness code to bypass it altogether.
And incorrect flow means air.

U can try to do the 02 sensor trick on it to eliminate this problem, it will say its all running correctly and should solve the problem, just a thought http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *theswoleguy* »_and you dont know how to do this bc?
















Bc I've searched for an answer and the one I found didn't work on 1.8T's or something.







I wish man...then I'd be the coolest evar.









_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
U can try to do the 02 sensor trick on it to eliminate this problem, it will say its all running correctly and should solve the problem, just a thought http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

You mean using the spacer? That trick is to back it out of the exhaust flow so you don't get the catalyst below threshold code. I would have to assume that backing it out of an "improper flow" would be the opposite of helping it out. I did think of that, but never tried it. If anyone wants to give it a shot before I do, do it. However I don't expect it to work.
What I tried doing was lowering the startup/warmup fuel enrichment via LW so it would be rich enough to start but leaner so it'd be hotter. I never got it working.


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (PhilW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhilW* »_Thanks for the updated, i'm gonna buy a load of 330ohm 10 watt resistors this week to sort out my CEL.

are these the actual resistors that are needed?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (.skully.)*

Yes...you can get em from Integrated Engineering I believe.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Yes...you can get em from Integrated Engineering I believe.

or radioshack http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## burtondk12 (Mar 20, 2006)

thanks for the write up, amazing, im gona do some of the stuff this weekend


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
or radioshack http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

werd.. i still need to put resistors in all my stuff. i don't really care about having a CEL, so i just haven't gotten around to it.. but i figure the, less codes being thrown, the better, eh?


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The only CEL that will keep popping up is the one for the 2ndary air injection. Even tho you have a resistor on the harness, that resistor has nothing to do with the code thrown. One of the o2 sensors throws it because it sees that the cat isn't being heated up since you don't have a pump on. So, remove everything but the SAI I guess.

Came up with another idea for this problem, relocate the 02 and bung closer to the turbo ( up more on the dp ) that way its just hotter in general , and if a cel throw because of that, do the spacer mod to that. Im goin to try it in a week or 2 ill let u know how it goes http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

i went to fry's and bought two of the 10W 330ohm resisters in a pack for $.99. Earlier this week i unplugged the SAI pump and put the resister in its place. I have had 3 or 4 true cold starts(i live in vegas so read ~60-70 deg in the morning) thus far and have not had a CEL yet. Remeber i have no cat and am just using the O2 spacer trick.


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

you'll get one sooner or later, if not you're lucky.. haha.
i have gapped O2 sensors on my downpipe, and the "improper flow" code is the only one that my car throws.


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

do you still pass all the readiness codes they check for when doing a smog check


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

i don't know. we don't have emissions. haha. i don't think you'll pass the readiness code though without the secondary air.


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *j0hnnybmx* »_i don't know. we don't have emissions. haha. i don't think you'll pass the readiness code though without the secondary air.

surprisingly my jetta passed the readiness lol


----------



## YoMyMan (Sep 14, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

bump


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

I scanned the car last night and failed the SAI readiness code. Still no CELs though.


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (Levi20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Levi20AE* »_I scanned the car last night and failed the SAI readiness code. Still no CELs though.

do u have the resistor in the connector?


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
do u have the resistor in the connector?

yep, i'll check the condition of the resistor tonight and see if was possibly damaged.


----------



## TampaT (Mar 20, 2007)

Well hell yea sav! 
Removing the evap solved my floating idle problem (only bounced around within a 150rpm area But now its spot on!) 
Also, I removed all the n249 and SAI crap, but I just wanted to ask if you left out the n112 or did you just keep it plugged in electronically. Cars only about 2weeks old to me and from searching I hear n112 is a nono to touch cause it deals with adaptation.(might try a mbc for a while til I get software)


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (TampaT)*

Unplugged the n112 too but put a resistor on. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## TampaT (Mar 20, 2007)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

err, well here comes my electronically challenged/noobish question... I don't know how to wire a resistor in to anything. Just splice one of the wires open and put the resistor in the middle would be my guess. If you can explain that part a little more throughly for me that would be great
I finished everything up today (n249,SAI,Evap) and let me tell ya http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif car feels better than before. I even used the leftover vac. tubing to route the DV vac source up to that port on the top of the TB. That way the vac tube size stays the same instead of having to taper down to fit the port on the manifold. Hurry for my 1st mod


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

well yeah, you just splice each wire and put an end of the resistor into each wire, since there's two.


----------



## blueb316v (Nov 16, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

One question, i followedyour guide and found it to be a big help, but one thing i'm stuck on is the one line that goes to the tip, do i cap it, or does it get re-connected? Oh and if it makes a difference i've got an apr stage 3+ kit. Just so you know i got rid of the evap too> t.i.a. kyle


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (blueb316v)*

cap that port. its a vac source for the evap...and now that that's gone, no need.


----------



## blueb316v (Nov 16, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

THANKS!!!


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

BUMP


----------



## afmilboy02 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

nice but are there any performance gains from this?


----------



## Woody201 (Dec 2, 2004)

*Re: (afmilboy02)*

I think its only for looks and making the engine bay a little easier to work on. I was wondering what these systems actaully do. i mean they were put in for a reason right?


----------



## Pifiu (Jan 28, 2002)

*Re: (Durbo20vT)*

Question, please dont flame lol.
Doesnt this cause the car to take longer to warm up in the mornings? Especially in colder weather?


----------



## sudden_970 (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (Woody201)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Woody201* »_I think its only for looks and making the engine bay a little easier to work on. I was wondering what these systems actaully do. i mean they were put in for a reason right?
 Wondering the same thing... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (Woody201)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Woody201* »_I think its only for looks and making the engine bay a little easier to work on. I was wondering what these systems actaully do. i mean they were put in for a reason right?
 Emissions.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Pifiu)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pifiu* »_Question, please dont flame lol.
Doesnt this cause the car to take longer to warm up in the mornings? Especially in colder weather?

I never noticed...but then again I haven't started this car in 20 degree weather.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

They are for emissions purposes only. The car will still run perfectly fine without them.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_They are for emissions purposes only. The car will still run perfectly fine without them.

Exactly. Jen's car isn't having any problems running properly with any of these systems uninstalled.
I'm gonna really try to get you guys the PCV edit either tonight or tomorrow. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (.skully.)*

These lines highlighted in blue, what do they do? I know one of them is for the blue balls correct? I'm not sure exactly what the other line attached to it is


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

One is for vac to the EVAP (blue balls), the other is for coolant. The coolant one goes from the main big line on the driver side over the manifold to the overflow tank.


----------



## Woody201 (Dec 2, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

ok my next question is this. How are you guys going to pass emissions? I only ask because i had my car inspected for the first time today and failed because of the rear 02 sensor cell. i know this really doesnt have to do with emissions all that much... but. how are you guys gonna pass the emissions part?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (Woody201)*

the 02 sensor is an emissions part, especially the second one http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
the reason they pass emissions is because they throw in resistors so the car doesn't trigger a CEL, but they would fail visual inspection if that is something your state does


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

Damn, I don't know how any of you got the SAI pump off without unbolting the bracket. I just spent 2 hours trying to get that pump off. I got all the 8mm allen bolts out except for one that seems impossible to remove


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_Damn, I don't know how any of you got the SAI pump off without unbolting the bracket. I just spent 2 hours trying to get that pump off. I got all the 8mm allen bolts out except for one that seems impossible to remove
yeah you would have to bend the metal piece to get the SAI out


----------



## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_Damn, I don't know how any of you got the SAI pump off without unbolting the bracket. I just spent 2 hours trying to get that pump off. I got all the 8mm allen bolts out except for one that seems impossible to remove

It took me like 2mins. to remove the SAI pump without the bracket attached to it, you just got to twist it/ move it just correctly.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

Well I tried that for about an hour. Then tried removing the bracket for an hour and only removed two bolts. I started getting frustrated so I took a break. Came back to it, with some precisely placed sockets and an air rachet.. and I finally got that bitch off


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

Has anyone found away around the readiness codes with the secondary air injection. I tried plugging in the resistor and running the SAI test w/ block 77. It obviously failed because the MAF was not seeing any additional flow. the readiness code did not change to fail but i have a feeling it will. Does anyone know of a chip tuner that can write out readiness code?


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

I heard the guys over at Unitronics are working on the SAI readiness.


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

who is a good point of contact at Uni? I googled Unitronics and was not able to find a website for them.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (Levi20AE)*

DonR
http://www.unitronic.ca/UNI



_Modified by QU1KGTI at 3:41 PM 4-5-2007_


----------



## UntouchableGTI (Apr 30, 2006)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_DonR
http://www.unitronic.ca

what is that link suppose to take u to? Not sure if its just me, but it takes me to a Windows page.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

http://www.unitronic.ca/uni/


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UntouchableGTI* »_
what is that link suppose to take u to? Not sure if its just me, but it takes me to a Windows page.

yea, i fixed it


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

thanks for the link. funny how google doesnt find it all


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

has anyone else had problems ordering from integrated-engineering? i keep trying to checkout, but all i get is the "cart contents" screen.


----------



## Levi20AE (Feb 16, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

yea i tried to order from them first and could not get it to work, sent an email and got no reply. 20 squared has them though.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (Levi20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Levi20AE* »_yea i tried to order from them first and could not get it to work, sent an email and got no reply. 20 squared has them though.

yea, now i'm just waiting for 20squared to process my order.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

there are two electrical connections on this bracket. maybe you could point out which one is the N249 and what the other one is? i think it's the N112?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

You'd have to look at the valves underneath. I honestly don't know which is which. My guess is the one on the driver side is the N249 and the N112 is passenger side. Just put a resistor in both.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

so that would mean a resistor for the SAI, N249, EVAP, and possibly N112?







Damn it, I knew I should have ordered more resistors


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

All 4 yes.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I looked in the bentley and it says the passenger side electrical connection is for the N112. I'm not very positive about this, but I remember reading somewhere that the N112 was for adaptation? I think I just gonna leave it plugged in for right now.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_I looked in the bentley and it says the passenger side electrical connection is for the N112. I'm not very positive about this, but I remember reading somewhere that the N112 was for adaptation? I think I just gonna leave it plugged in for right now.

Yes and when you put a resistor on the N112, you still get adaptation. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Just leave it plugged in til you get another resistor.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

excellent. now all i need to do is figure out which wire to put the resistor in








also, I can use the same spec resistor for all 4? i've seen 10watt in this thread, and 50watt in another thread?
found thread:http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2876830
_Modified by QU1KGTI at 4:11 PM 4-9-2007_


_Modified by QU1KGTI at 4:16 PM 4-9-2007_


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

What do you mean which wire? Should only be two wires for all 4 of those harnesses. And 330ohm 10watt for all of em.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

oops, you're right. I hope 20squared sent me 330ohm 10watt resistors since they don't specify on their webpage.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

I'm pretty sure that's what they are. If they work on the SAI they should be fine on the N112, N249, and EVAP. Plus they're actually easier to install than the ones I got. Just push the wire ends into the harness instead of doing any splicing.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*









330 Ohm 10 Watt Resistors
don't forget coupon code "freeship"


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

Those are the exact same resistors I used. Did you get em from 20squared?


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Those are the exact same resistors I used. Did you get em from 20squared?

yes i did, look at the pick again


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*








Reason I asked is because I've only seen these white ones with wire ends on em.


----------



## .skully. (May 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_







Reason I asked is because I've only seen these white ones with wire ends on em.

the white ones is what i got from 20 squared. im probably gonna need to buy some more. i may just buy a lot of 25 off of ebay for like $4 or something. they were on their a few weeks ago.


_Modified by .skully. at 12:48 PM 4-12-2007_


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_







Reason I asked is because I've only seen these white ones with wire ends on em.

yea, what they have pictured on the site looks nothing like what they sent me







but it's all good. I need to run to radioshack and pick up another resistor for the EVAP, I just left the N112 plugged in.


----------



## tw1nny03 (Mar 23, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_
yea, what they have pictured on the site looks nothing like what they sent me







but it's all good. I need to run to radioshack and pick up another resistor for the EVAP, I just left the N112 plugged in.

I called the park shops Radio Shack here in downtown houston. They said Radio Shack doesnt carry the 330ohm 10w resistors. 
LMK where u get the resistors at in Houston. I'll be needing 4 of them also.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

I guess I'll have to start looking somewhere else.
Also, has anyone ever driven their car without EVAP and without a resistor in the EVAP harness?


----------



## O2VW1.8T (Jul 9, 2003)

*Re: (tw1nny03)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tw1nny03* »_
I called the park shops Radio Shack here in downtown houston. They said Radio Shack doesnt carry the 330ohm 10w resistors. 
LMK where u get the resistors at in Houston. I'll be needing 4 of them also.

They are hard to find for some reason... But i dont understand why u need 330 ohm.. I used a 10 ohm and it worked lol


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

330 Ohm is just what 20squared sent me, so I thought why not just have them all the same.


----------



## tw1nny03 (Mar 23, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_330 Ohm is just what 20squared sent me, so I thought why not just have them all the same.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002...e=asn
I just ordered some resistors here for $0.39 each. Shipping to houston is $6 though.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

Correction, 20squared sent me 300 Ohm 10 Watt resistors.


----------



## tw1nny03 (Mar 23, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

u can get (5) 330ohm 10w resistors for $7shipped here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

I'm curious to know how my car will run without the EVAP or without the EVAP resistor'd, and what codes will be thrown.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *O2VW1.8T* »_
They are hard to find for some reason... But i dont understand why u need 330 ohm.. I used a 10 ohm and it worked lol

I still don't understand why you need a certain amount of Ohms


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_
I still don't understand why you need a certain amount of Ohms









The resistance is what lets the ecu know that its there.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (ginster vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ginster vr6* »_
The resistance is what lets the ecu know that its there.

Ok, so what were to happen if you had too little/too many ohms?
BTW, I drove the car last night CEL free


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_Ok, so what were to happen if you had too little/too many ohms?

It should give a CEL as it will not see the correct resistance expected.


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_
Ok, so what were to happen if you had too little/too many ohms?


My guess is that there is a threshold that the ECU needs to see if its too much or too little it will pop a code.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

How hot do these resistors get? I went to the local electronics store and they didn't have any 300 Ohm 10watt resistors with the heatsinks on them, so I bought 402 Ohm 10watt resistors.


----------



## Tetzuoe (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

basically the ECU is driving a motor so it expects a current drop, when you have open contacts there is no current, same if you have too little resistance the current drop is too small thats what sets off the code. 
(V=IR) 12/300 = 0.04 Amps VI = Watts, .04*12 = .48 watts. 1/2 watt resistor may be suitable, i would use a larger one though since i have no idea if the 1/2 watt resistor will heat up or not. 
If you cant find one resistor that will handle a bunch of watts, simply double up on resistors, but follow the formula ( // denotes components in parallel)
R1//R2 =1/( 1/R1+1/R2 ), so if i have 1/4 watt resistors and i want a 1 watt resistor with 300 ohms i will need four 1.2Kohm resistors.
1/1200+1/1200+1/1200+1/1200 = 0.003333333, 1/0.003333... = 300.
so take four 1.2kohm resistors and connect them in parallel in the socket (you can get away with just twisting the leads together, just remember if one disconnects your resistance changes as well as your maximum wattage so things can fry...)


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

I have the EVAP and N249 resistor'd. N112 is plugged in electronically, no vacuum hoses. No resistor on the SAI. I'm not throwing any codes now, no CEL










_Modified by QU1KGTI at 11:21 AM 4-17-2007_


----------



## burtondk12 (Mar 20, 2006)

thanks for this, getting it on my watched topicws so i can do this when i get home
edit is there any negetive effects by doing this?


_Modified by burtondk12 at 11:29 AM 4-18-2007_


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

you most likely won't pass inspections/smog if you have those emissions tests in your city.


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

PCV?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (ginster vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ginster vr6* »_PCV?

Keep pushing it lol...I've got some stuff to take pics of to put up in the classifieds, so I'll take pics of the PCV edit at the same time. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Keep pushing it lol...

LOL!


----------



## SMG02JettaTurbo (Dec 3, 2003)

*Re: (dlsolo)*

I just removed the SAI/EGR crap from my B6 A4 (04') yesterday. I have not put the resistor in yet, its sitting next to me going in tonight.
After the 4th key cycle my CEL came on and now everytime I start the car the radiator fans come on and the temp gauge wont go past a 1/2 of its normal temp.
Any ideas? Is this because of the missing pump? Anyone ever had this happen?
Thanks!
Shawn


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

This code keeps popping up on my car:
P0441- 16825- Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow 
EVAP has a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor
N249 has a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor
N112 is plugged in w/ no vacuum hoses
SAI has no resistor, no connector


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_This code keeps popping up on my car:
P0441- 16825- Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow 
EVAP has a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor
N249 has a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor
N112 is plugged in w/ no vacuum hoses
SAI has no resistor, no connector

I get that code too. And as far as the temp stuff, no clue. Sounds like you may have unplugged your CTS on accident.


----------



## SMG02JettaTurbo (Dec 3, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

The sensor is plugged in, just went and messed with it. Whether the temp sensor is plugged in or unplugged the car does the exact same thing. I think its bad and nothing related to the EGT/SAI removal!


----------



## skydaman (Dec 16, 2005)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_This code keeps popping up on my car:
P0441- 16825- Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow 
EVAP has a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor
N249 has a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor
N112 is plugged in w/ no vacuum hoses
SAI has no resistor, no connector

Yeah I get that one too because the O2 sensor is not seeing the extra air the SAI system would normally be blowing in.


----------



## ginster vr6 (Aug 3, 2003)

*Re: (skydaman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skydaman* »_
Yeah I get that one too because the O2 sensor is not seeing the extra air the SAI system would normally be blowing in.

Are you sure its O2 related and not the EVAP system?


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

I've got a strange car, SAI/combie valve has no resistors and i never get any codes at all, but i resistor the N80/EVAP and it throws 2 codes of missing valve and incorrect code, so as a workaround i've twisted out the electrical connection on the canister and left it plugged in electrically.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Durbo20vT)*

PCV edit is DONE! Stu add this to the FAQ pronto!


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

Excellent!


----------



## Auto Pilot (Nov 29, 2001)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

I over bought to save some and am selling the rest for pretty much the cost.
If anyone is interested. There are 10 available.

Only looking for $2.50 for the first and then $2.00 after that
Either IM me or email me at sfelter1 at hotmail . com


_Modified by Auto Pilot at 3:31 PM 7-22-2007_


----------



## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (Auto Pilot)*

Looks great and Im sorry I didnt read the whole post but what is the point of removing everything mentioned? Does it free up HP or just eliminated all of the safety features the VW Engineers added. 
If it is to remove the safety features, why would you if thats what they are there for...








The main reason is because I just spent about $300 to replace 2 of the hoses that ripped. I should have just ripped everything out, lol.


_Modified by VWGolfA4 at 2:59 PM 7-6-2007_


----------



## nisnklr (Oct 30, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (inivid)*

marked.


----------



## DrivesMeCrazy (Dec 29, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (nisnklr)*

this guide would have helped if it were available when I removed my sai pump!
I think I'll get evap next...


----------



## core5 (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (DrivesMeCrazy)*

digikey.com also sells several versions of the 330Ohm 10W resistors. 5W will probably work also. The wattage just has to be high enough that the resistor won't burn up when the ECU powers up one of those harnesses. For example, if you put one of the little 1/4W resistors in there it would probably char it.
The best ones to get also have a heat rating around 170C max.


----------



## ColoradoSoul03 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Is it ok to run the valve that sits in the TIP still for the PCV or do I need to take it out and run straight into it?


----------



## Seanathan (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_Looks great and Im sorry I didnt read the whole post but what is the point of removing everything mentioned? Does it free up HP or just eliminated all of the safety features the VW Engineers added. 


Its not for safety reasons, its for emissions purposes. Doesn't free up any HP either, just reduces the large amounts of clutter under the hood.


----------



## mindytoyvw (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: (O2VW1.8T)*

so what is all of this for? to leave room??or help performance? lol


----------



## WhiteG60 (Aug 20, 2001)

*Re: (mindytoyvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mindytoyvw* »_so what is all of this for? to leave room??or help performance? lol









Did you read the post IMMEDIATELY above yours?


----------



## ColoradoSoul03 (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (ColoradoSoul03)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ColoradoSoul03* »_Is it ok to run the valve that sits in the TIP still for the PCV or do I need to take it out and run straight into it?

Bump


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

doesn't really matter honestly... if you're pulling everything, you'll have two vac sources open + the big PCV one.i just plugged the pvc check valve one and just ran a regular vac line to one of the smaller bungs... makes it a lot cleaner looking since it's smaller...


----------



## tdipower4me (Dec 1, 2005)

*Re: (j0hnnybmx)*

do you have any pics of what you left cuz i just did this and having stumbling in vac issues and i just replaced my maf sensor and still same problem...


----------



## Punchdance (Jun 19, 2003)

*Re: (tdipower4me)*

All I can think about is the poor person that owns the car after you. Anybody who has to pass emissions will have trouble, and putting that stuff back on has got to be a pain, especially with the prices of those hoses. I also can't get over how many people are sticking resistors here and resistors there in order to fix something that would be fine had the left a little "mess" in the engine bay. Others are having VAC issues now. I guess Im just the only one that doesnt see the benefit that makes it all worth it in the end. Or Im just too old to care that much how many factory hoses are in the engine bay







.


----------



## core5 (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: (Mk2GTiG60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mk2GTiG60* »_All I can think about is the poor person that owns the car after you. Anybody who has to pass emissions will have trouble, and putting that stuff back on has got to be a pain, especially with the prices of those hoses. I also can't get over how many people are sticking resistors here and resistors there in order to fix something that would be fine had the left a little "mess" in the engine bay. Others are having VAC issues now. I guess Im just the only one that doesnt see the benefit that makes it all worth it in the end. Or Im just too old to care that much how many factory hoses are in the engine bay







.

I'm going to be putting all that stuff back in soon. If you don't have emission checking you're fine, but I do and there's no software solution available to the 1.8T to fix the "improper flow" code. The only trick I can imagine as a fix would be to wire the SAI pump harness back around to of the oxygen sensors along with some discreet components to regulate the voltage and current going to them. 
I don't want to mess with that though because I'm already having issues with some new ECU firmware and the shop doesn't want to guess at what's wrong with all those parts gone.


----------



## QU1KGTI (Apr 1, 2003)

*Re: (core5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *core5* »_
there's no software solution available to the 1.8T to fix the "improper flow" code. 

yes there is, you just have to know who to speak to


----------



## core5 (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *QU1KGTI* »_
yes there is, you just have to know who to speak to

















Who's that? I want to do it the cheap and dirty way if possible.


----------



## robbyb413 (May 12, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Came accross this while using the search to find ways to clean up a lot of the junk in my b5 a4's engine bay. I would assume that the process is similar for my car, would I be safe in that assumption? Does anyone have any feedback on using this as a guide for something like my AWM?


----------



## iae21 (Feb 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (robbyb413)*

So did anyone find a way to get rid of the codes for the EVAP and SAI blockoff?


----------



## notagoodriver (Apr 14, 2007)

where did your dv go?


----------



## turbovdub4 (Aug 31, 2006)

*Re: (notagoodriver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *notagoodriver* »_where did your dv go?
 i was trying to figure that out to


----------



## 20thGTI12 (Feb 18, 2005)

*Re: (turbovdub4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbovdub4* »_ i was trying to figure that out to

the DV is connected to the throttle body silicone hose..


----------



## veedubwolfsburg (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: (notagoodriver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *notagoodriver* »_where did your dv go?
 yea i believe its been relocated to the "cold side" of the intake system on the throttle body (^^like he said^^). this is rumored to have a slight performance increase. and if not that...then it cleans up the junk hanging on the TIP...kind of...


----------



## 20thGTI12 (Feb 18, 2005)

*Re: (veebudwolfsburg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veebudwolfsburg* »_ yea i believe its been relocated to the "cold side" of the intake system on the throttle body (^^like he said^^). this is rumored to have a slight performance increase. and if not that...then it cleans up the junk hanging on the TIP...kind of...

the only issue i would have is how do you connect the DV into the throttle body silicone hose, because i know you have to cut a hole but what do you use to prevent it from leaks and making sure it holds???


----------



## veedubwolfsburg (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: (20thGTI12)*

yea thats a mystery to me


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (veebudwolfsburg)*

you cut the hose in half and put a hard T-pipe in and clamp it on both ends.


----------



## 20thGTI12 (Feb 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_you cut the hose in half and put a hard T-pipe in and clamp it on both ends.

do you have a picture??


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (20thGTI12)*


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

On my car i use a 33ohm 50 watt resistor on the EVAP/carbon cannister which seems to work fine.


----------



## 20thGTI12 (Feb 18, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_









thanks for the picture, but where would find/buy a hard T pipe? Autozone? Pep Boys??


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (20thGTI12)*

I had mine made...spare 2.5" pipe and a 1" OD piece of aluminum welded to it.


----------



## cincyTT (May 11, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

where did you get the hose to take it back to the intake?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (cincyTT)*

Napa 1" heater hose


----------



## Chad4061 (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I just removed everything except i got one hose holding me up...its the one that runs off the manifold to the brake booster. my question is do i remove the fitting connected to the brake booster or do i just cut the hose a little above the fitting and slip new hose over the old hose?


----------



## lardstax (Aug 1, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

good stuff, thanx


----------



## AnniGTI (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (lardstax)*

Hey chaps, can you tell me if this would work on a AUQ 1.8T?


----------



## 8 UR V8 (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Been trying to do this on my 01 Audi TT 225. Already have the motor apart so kind of doing it backwards. Got kind of confused in the beginning where it says to cut 3 wires? I have 3 pictures of what I am looking at am just a little un-sure on what I need to do. Any help for a an Audi TT would help as well for removing all of this. Thanks


----------



## CesarinGTI (Mar 27, 2007)

lol.. nice meeting you SAVwKO
Gj on the write up!!


----------



## 8 UR V8 (Mar 24, 2007)

TTT??


----------



## 8 UR V8 (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: (8 UR V8)*

If you take out all the junk on top. Where does the DV hose route to? It looks like it goes right to all of it in this pic?


----------



## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: (8 UR V8)*

That looks like a big mess to me /\.
The DV goes to the boost pipe (the one between the turbo and intercooler) and the intake side tube (after the maf, the dump side)


----------



## 8 UR V8 (Mar 24, 2007)

Alright, now which hoses do I have to cut to take out the N249??


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (8 UR V8)*

Trace it on the TT. I took mine off pretty easily. Basically you kill all the vacuum lines except the one to the brakes, fuel pressure regulator, and DV (I ran new vacuum lines for them) Took the EGR off, capped the throttle body. Its a BIT different but pretty striaghtfoward. Less metal lines. I didn't cut any vacuum lines but just removed a lot of stuff. I'll get a pic the next time the motor is in the car. I didn't cut any wires either. They're all harnessed, i just put a 330 ohm 10 watt resistor somewhere on the harness closer to the main harness.


_Modified by themachasy at 4:57 AM 3-6-2008_


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (robbyb413)*


_Quote, originally posted by *robbyb413* »_Came accross this while using the search to find ways to clean up a lot of the junk in my b5 a4's engine bay. I would assume that the process is similar for my car, would I be safe in that assumption? Does anyone have any feedback on using this as a guide for something like my AWM?


A4 is a tiny bit more complicated. There are the same parts but there is a bunch of vacuum stuff under the airbox. Be careful and trace things and you'll be fine.


----------



## HAPPYnotEMO (Jul 29, 2004)

Where is the vr6 love?


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (HAPPYnotEMO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *HAPPYnotEMO* »_Where is the vr6 love?

We have like 20x the crap on our motors... I think. I know you guys have sai and such but the 1.8t engine bay is so cluster****ed stock it just needs to be cleaned.


----------



## 30psi18t (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

i may have solved the incorrect flow problem. figure out what temp determines cold start. measure the resistance on the iat sensor add resistor between those wires. conclusion is me7 thinks its warm all the time
?????????


----------



## 30psi18t (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (30psi18t)*

or even try the coolant temp sensor


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (30psi18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *30psi18t* »_or even try the coolant temp sensor

I don't think its temperature related... I have the improper flow code also and I think its o2 based, the car is running a wee bit richer on startup so the car isn't happy. I'm changing software soon to fix that.


----------



## 30psi18t (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (themachasy)*

but if the ecm thinks its warm already then you wont get the code anymore


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (30psi18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *30psi18t* »_but if the ecm thinks its warm already then you wont get the code anymore

then how will you have a cold start map? I'd just slap some uni software in it and call it a day.


----------



## kyleharris1234 (Mar 28, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

does this give you anymore power and is it required for an aftermarket intake?


----------



## core5 (Apr 28, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (kyleharris1234)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kyleharris1234* »_does this give you anymore power and is it required for an aftermarket intake?


No and no.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
I don't think its temperature related... I have the improper flow code also and I think its o2 based, the car is running a wee bit richer on startup so the car isn't happy. I'm changing software soon to fix that.

It is actually. It's rising temp rate of the O2 sensor and it's tied into the MAF as well. So as for a resistor fix, good luck to anyone.








The uni route is much easier.


----------



## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

is this 








this









becasue their site says 
Description: 
This product is a beatifully CNC laser cut 304 Stainless blockoff flange for 38mm wastegates, including Tial and turbosmart brand wastegates. They have been CAD designed and laser cut for perfect fit and finish. 



_Modified by Nevaeh_Speed at 10:20 AM 3-30-2008_


----------



## vwrogers (Sep 26, 2004)

*Re: (Nevaeh_Speed)*

no, i look on their site and they dont have it on there, i ordered mine from here.
http://www.20squared.com/catal...id=29


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Nevaeh_Speed)*

No. The one in the writeup is a Secondary Air Block Off Plate. What you showed was a 38mm Wastegate Block Off Plate. It says that in the description.


----------



## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Did the n249 today along with the SAI vavle (n1112). Man the car is much smotther. Great write up, gonna order the combo vavle block off plate and remove all that car next. Once again nice write up.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

Totally gonna use this...thanks!


----------



## harryvw (Sep 26, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Totally gonna use this...thanks!

Definitely http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

looking to do this soon 
just have to read up alot more


----------



## rodney_dubs (Mar 2, 2008)

IE is temp. out of stock of SAI plates- retooling to provide nicer finished parts that are fully machined and chamfered. ETA 14-20 days.


----------



## pat7755 (Sep 9, 2007)

*Re: (rodney_dubs)*

sorry if I missed something but is there any more info on what these systems you removed acutually do? Also anyone know if I could pass inspection in NY doing this?


----------



## AlpineStarz067 (Nov 25, 2007)

will i have trouble with cold starts by doing this? i live in Pa so we do get below 0 deg F in mid winter


----------



## j0hnnybmx (Oct 18, 2004)

nope... you should be just fine... just mkae sure you have a resistor on the n112 if you remove it so you can have adaptation.
if anything your car will probably run better http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## porc933 (Jan 10, 2008)

Nice write up.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (pat7755)*

If you have emissions there, then you will need to have everything up to speed. The SAI pump removal is the one thing that might affect your pass-or-fail there. Here in NH, we now have OBD-II scans mandatory at inspections for 1996 and later. They just plug in and make sure readiness is good and no emissions-related codes come up. For example: N249 failure will not make you fail, but SAI pump flow errors may. If NY does visual then you may or may not pass depending on the inspection procedure and officials doing the inspection itself. It's a fine line, and it's making me want to build an older car and leave my 2001 1.8T alone....








Yeah, like that will evar happen


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

SAVwKO,
Thanks for your write-up, bro. Your posts have helped me understand the 1.8T's supporting systems better. 
Just wanted to add some info for the bug owners. The SAIP on NB's is different than the other MK4 cars. I see no rivets at all on mine. The pump is mounted sideways as well. The N112 and N249 live on top of the motor along with the vac reservoir. Vac line setups also vary greatly. The normally open port of the N249 (when you take the hose off, the metal one) is connected directly to the same charge pipe line as the N75 on a tee in that line. None of the metal hard lines are affected when you do the removals of N112, N249, or the SAIP itself. And the N80(??) evap I think is behind the rear passenger side wheel well, or somewhere else hidden from view. Hollywood has some good pics on his TT gas cap conversion thread, and you can see the evap canister lives behind the rear bumper cover. 
The NB is an odd bird, but for doing most of this work, it's actually easier than an MK4!
I've only done the N249 bypass and running 16 PSI on MBC/Diode, there is a huge difference in it's operation now. The DV opens every time I lift the throttle now. Response is sometimes even too fast (engine drops throttle plate, MBC holds boost, DV opens up from manifold vac, and the car dogs out even though it's a slight pedal motion I've applied.) It's all probably due to the MBC as my N75 is just electrically connected now. Either way, I'm happier than Rain Man during Jeopardy.

















_Modified by zeusenergy at 10:36 PM 4-8-2008_


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

SAI, EVAP, N112, N249, PCV, A/C, battery, washer bottle, coolant tank all removed....


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (PhilW)*

But why are the charge pipe and cold-side pipes on the same side??


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Thats how they are on my car as standard.


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

anybody ever seen these codes?
thesee are the only 2 that i got???

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-00 - -
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
any help would be great....thanks!


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (gti_1_eight_T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gti_1_eight_T* »_anybody ever seen these codes?
thesee are the only 2 that i got???

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-00 - -
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
any help would be great....thanks!


Did you get these codes after doing removals of any of this stuff?


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

yup, after all the removal and 4 resisters installed....


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (gti_1_eight_T)*

I'd swap the N80 resistor and try again!


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_I'd swap the N80 resistor and try again!









which one is that?
the two big wires that are down by the oil filter?


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

i went to the local electrical store today
have a question about the resistor
the one mentioned in the write up is 10w 330ohm
i picked up a few resistors one being 330 ohm at 5% and 330 ohm at 10 % 
my question is will these work for the sai
i suck when it comes to this electrical mumbo jumbo


_Modified by lewis1.8t at 3:15 PM 4-9-2008_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*

Percentage is the amount of variance the part will allow. For example, a 330 OHM resistor at 5% will be anywhere from 313-346 OHMs. Mostly they are more accurate than that though. I wouldn't worry much about it, both will work fine as long as they are 10Watt.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (gti_1_eight_T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gti_1_eight_T* »_
which one is that?
the two big wires that are down by the oil filter?

Nope, the Evap one.


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

the thing im not sure of is the watts
is there a way to tell?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*

The resistors should be 10 watt versions. There's a huge difference between smaller say 500 milliwatt ones and the "big boys."
The yellow device in this pic is a 10 watt 330 ohm resistor:


----------



## VR (Jul 2, 2001)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

is there a solution to the CEL's?
and can i install a catch can w/o a CEL and with leaving everything in place also? Just to catch some of the oil and such before it gets into the intercooler lines ect.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR* »_is there a solution to the CEL's?
and can i install a catch can w/o a CEL and with leaving everything in place also? Just to catch some of the oil and such before it gets into the intercooler lines ect.


Leave the N112 and SAIP and you won't get a CEL. The catch can won't do anything ECM related so that's totally safe.


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Nope, the Evap one.


any quick easy way to identify this one? wire colors, or generally where on the motor....
sorry, i just got this at work, and my car is at home in the garage...
would it be the one of the side of the engine?(or is that the N75?), if not that it would be one of the two on the front of the engine right? one was the N112, and the other must be the evap?
cheers!


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (gti_1_eight_T)*

The evap would be near the coolant reservoir. My car is way different, so can't tell you exact location. Ask Savwko.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

The EVAP is on the passenger side enclosed by the washer reservoir, power steering reservoir, and coolant reservoir. Look in that hole for the harness and you'll find the N80. However even with a resistor in this harness I was getting EVAP Improper Flow codes.


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_The EVAP is on the passenger side enclosed by the washer reservoir, power steering reservoir, and coolant reservoir. Look in that hole for the harness and you'll find the N80. However even with a resistor in this harness I was getting EVAP Improper Flow codes.

thanks dude,
ill check it out tonight...
cheers


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (gti_1_eight_T)*

well im hooked up to my VAG-COM right now....one code went away....
i hooked a resister into blue w/yellow strip, and purple wire that i had not striped when i pulled all this stuff off, so that tells me it was the one...but im still getting this code

17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -


----------



## scoobydoo41787 (Dec 17, 2006)

is there any write up on this cleaning for a long. mount 1.8t? as in the Passat's and A4's?


----------



## VDUB Modder (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

I recently took out the evap, stock breather system and the n249 and put resistors where needed. I left the n112 in place for cold startups along with the SAI pump, but i get an improper air flow from the sai which dosnt make sence since i left that in...but i did put new lines in place for the n112 to the sai valve, starting from the intake mani to the n112 and from there to the sai valve. could a vac leak along that rout be the problem? or a bad n112?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (VDUB Modder)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VDUB Modder* »_I recently took out the evap, stock breather system and the n249 and put resistors where needed. I left the n112 in place for cold startups along with the SAI pump, but i get an improper air flow from the sai which dosnt make sence since i left that in...but i did put new lines in place for the n112 to the sai valve, starting from the intake mani to the n112 and from there to the sai valve. could a vac leak along that rout be the problem? or a bad n112?

Did you pull the valve that had two lines attached, or three?
The N112 should have only TWO lines attached and a third port capped off. The N249 has a part number on it that ends in 283 N, I believe. That one has three lines on it. If your N112 was mistaken for the 249, then you deleted the control for opening the combi, so the SAIP could never lean out the exhaust that way- giving the improper flow code.
Both valves are nearly identical, and you can take the one you removed and test it with 12 Volts across the two wires. It should click, and instead of the metal port open to the side port, the plastic port right next to the side port will now have flow. You can test the other valve the same way, but one of the end ports will be capped off. You can swap these valves if the one that's installed is the N112 and it is failing. Check this diagram out for info on how the 249 & 112 work. Pay attention to the two valves shown near the top on the left







:


----------



## 8 UR V8 (Mar 24, 2007)

Where is the catch can from??


_Modified by 8 UR V8 at 5:02 PM 4-13-2008_


----------



## XrightcoastdriverX (Mar 21, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (30psi18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *30psi18t* »_i may have solved the incorrect flow problem. figure out what temp determines cold start. measure the resistance on the iat sensor add resistor between those wires. conclusion is me7 thinks its warm all the time
?????????


I would think it is a lot harder than that. ME7 goes to many different maps depending on what the engine temp and outside temp are. Its a lot more complicated then one value.

As far as I know, the only way to remove the SAI incorrect flow code is to permanently hardcode the ECU. It is not something you can do with VAG-COM. You'll need a tuner to do it for you. Most tuners won't do it unless you're running their software.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (XrightcoastdriverX)*

...Or you could try to hack the ECM's code. Good luck there!


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

just took out the n249 
noticed the differnce and felt better responce


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lewis1.8t* »_just took out the n249 
noticed the differnce and felt better responce

Makes more noise and releases more often, too!


----------



## VR (Jul 2, 2001)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lewis1.8t* »_just took out the n249 
noticed the differnce and felt better responce

have you scanned with vagcom yet? 
seen any lights?


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

ive had lights on lol
right now i have one for cat below threshold, thermostat and probally one for this now
engine lights are a way of life when it comes to my car
haha


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*

CEL won't light up for the DV mech error AFAIK.


----------



## VDUB Modder (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Did you pull the valve that had two lines attached, or three?
The N112 should have only TWO lines attached and a third port capped off. The N249 has a part number on it that ends in 283 N, I believe. That one has three lines on it. If your N112 was mistaken for the 249, then you deleted the control for opening the combi, so the SAIP could never lean out the exhaust that way- giving the improper flow code.
Both valves are nearly identical, and you can take the one you removed and test it with 12 Volts across the two wires. It should click, and instead of the metal port open to the side port, the plastic port right next to the side port will now have flow. You can test the other valve the same way, but one of the end ports will be capped off. You can swap these valves if the one that's installed is the N112 and it is failing. Check this diagram out for info on how the 249 & 112 work. Pay attention to the two valves shown near the top on the left







:









I double checked on that, I made sure that the n112 was the one valve that only had 2 ports and the third capped. I also made sure that the direction of the flow was correct when it came to vacuum. I still do have the check engine and comes back roughly 2 or 3 days from which i reset the ecm.







Thanks for the help and I will do some further diagnostics also keep you updated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

removed just n249 still have n112 in 
what would cause fluttering


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*

I think it's a typical problem and it does the same for me. Maybe the throttle plate gets moved stangely when you lift, and we just aren't seeing or feeling it. That's just a guess... but mine flutters too, sometimes. Do you have an aftermarket, or stock DV?


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

stock dv 
getting a forge in a few weeks
it seems like it dumps alot faster but then it flutters
im going to look at it more tommorow
so ill see if i messed up any of the routeing


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (lewis1.8t)*

You should see some difference with the upgrade.


----------



## lewis1.8t (Sep 26, 2006)

thanks 
i wasnt sure if i messed something up or if it was normal


----------



## scoobydoo41787 (Dec 17, 2006)

does the SAI being out... make the car not want to idle right on initial cold start up?


----------



## JWJET1 (May 1, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (18T_BT)*

Ok i made it up to page 3 and read page 9. Is there anyway to keep from getting any cel's and pass all readiness codes?
Great thread, 
J


----------



## JWJET1 (May 1, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (18JettaPower)*


_Quote, originally posted by *18JettaPower* »_
If you take your car to California with Michagain Plates on it you dont have to take an emmission test! FYI

True, but illegal. If they checked your address vs. registration... your f'd. On the slight chance you have family in your state that can mail in your registration, insurance, etc. and forward everything to you, it'd work.
J


----------



## 93b18civic (Oct 17, 2007)

*Re: (PhilW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhilW* »_SAI, EVAP, N112, N249, PCV, A/C, battery, washer bottle, coolant tank all removed....

















looks real nice, but i think a wire tuck would set it off


----------



## JWJET1 (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (93b18civic)*

^ so glad i dnt have a rhd car... that brake booster settup would be horrible to work around. 
LHD for life... unless i find a cheap mini, then maybe.


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

*Re: (J-86)*

hey guys,
I took all this stuff out quite some time ago. I hooked my DV (forge) directly to the nipple on the throttle body (the big one on the top where the evap stuff usually goes). I have noticed that my dv is always open now, unless im making boost.
is this the way it should be? should the DV be open at idle and while accelerating? If i am slowly accelerating i can hear air being sucked through the open dv and as i give it more gas i can hear it closing with the more gas i give it. then once i hit 0 on my boost gauge or start making any boost the sound goes away until i let off the gas again.
does the n249 keep the DV closed while at idle and accelerating and stuff? or is the dv normally always open like that?


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

*Re: (Cass944)*

i have a feeling thats not the way it should be... because that would mean anyone running a BOV would constantly be sucking in unfiltered air
another quick question,
why does the diagram above show the bottom port of the n249 attaching to the line that goes from the charge pipe to the n75 valve? there is no such line....


_Modified by Cass944 at 6:27 AM 4-30-2008_


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

*Re: (Cass944)*

ok if im looking at that diagram above, it looks like when the power is not being applied to the n249 valve, the vacuum from the intake manifold is cut off from the DV...
it also looks like the valve supplies boost to the dv from the charge pipe? and not from the intake manifold since there is a check valve right before it.
I might just go ahead and hook that valve back up and see how it acts.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (Cass944)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cass944* »_it also looks like the valve supplies boost to the dv from the charge pipe? and not from the intake manifold since there is a check valve right before it.

That part is wrong for sure. It's showing the N249 line tapped onto the N75 line to the charge pipe? No way. I don't know what else is wrong with that diagram, if anything, b/c I haven't looked at those valves in years and also do not have any spares laying around, but the N249 would get it's boost signal from the intake manifold, not from the charge pipe.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Cass944)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Cass944* »_ok if im looking at that diagram above, it looks like when the power is not being applied to the n249 valve, the vacuum from the intake manifold is cut off from the DV...
it also looks like the valve supplies boost to the dv from the charge pipe? and not from the intake manifold since there is a check valve right before it.
I might just go ahead and hook that valve back up and see how it acts.

The schematic above shows a 2001 New Beetle sport with the 1.8T. Your car may have completely different connections. I have been told that GTI's and GLI's don't have the N249 charge pipe connection, instead that port on the N249 is attached to the manifold itself. All the N249 does is computer-control the DV to give "better" response in all conditions, and to allow the release of excess pressure in nanny mode. It does this via the vacuum reservoir on top of the valve cover. So even if you had constant, runaway boost conditions. there would be some vacuum left in that little canister to open the DV and stop the boost from blowing hoses. 
The N249 bypass assumes you have full charge/vacuum reference to the intake manifold, with no check valves in between. Sourcing that pressure signal from the TB is not a good idea, unless the port is feeding from the manifold side of the TB, NOT the upper IC hose. Having any vacuum in the manifold then will open the DV, including idle conditions. This gives the turbo an initial spool and also limits the amount of pressure the IC hoses and end tanks will see during a dropped throttle. 
BOV's do not suck in air. But you may have a point- on the N249 bypass, the BOV would be opened full-time under idle conditions.... I bet that would really mess with airflow readings at the MAF!!


----------



## InstantKarma (Jan 5, 2005)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

yeah... believe me, it does. Ive been driving with it like that for months now.
performance-wise, its not too different. it feels a little slugish in the morning and sometimes when i leave a red light it slugs a little but other than that its fine other than the noise of air being sucked backwards through the DV.
but im definitely going to look into some check valves or just reinstalling the n249


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

*Re: (J-86)*


_Quote, originally posted by *J-86* »_^ so glad i dnt have a rhd car... that brake booster settup would be horrible to work around. 
LHD for life... unless i find a cheap mini, then maybe.

Tell me about it, i also have a mk2 rear mount as well, making going BT a little tricky.


----------



## VDUB Modder (Nov 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

so i took out the evap system and put in the resistor(4.7) in the correct spot and threw a code for p0441. what could be the issue


----------



## JWJET1 (May 1, 2002)

*Re: (PhilW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhilW* »_
Tell me about it, i also have a mk2 rear mount as well, making going BT a little tricky.

in NA the older rabbit/scirocco cis deals are bad for anything on the driver side, I guess a 16v mk2 would be horrid for brake work... sorry to get off topic.


----------



## heuer21 (Jul 22, 2006)

anyone get a short to positive on the N80 Evap valve?


----------



## rodney_dubs (Mar 2, 2008)

sai plates are available again: 








Here


----------



## BlueSleeper (Nov 9, 2002)

*Re: (rodney_dubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rodney_dubs* »_sai plates are available again: 








Here 

Woot. I'm curious if you or anyone makes one for the maf housing, that would be sweet for those of us without mafs


----------



## shotofgmplease (May 21, 2003)

*Re: (BlueSleeper)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BlueSleeper* »_
Woot. I'm curious if you or anyone makes one for the maf housing, that would be sweet for those of us without mafs









just remove that whole MAF piece all together.


----------



## ajcascio (Jan 11, 2006)

*Re: (shotofgmplease)*

HEY guys just spoke to C2 motorsports and they too can turn readiness codes on and off........


----------



## Ghostccc (Jun 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Gonna have to try this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## skatingzooyork (Mar 13, 2006)

*FV-QR*

So guys, after you install the 4 resistors on the different plugs, how do you guys hide them or protect them even?
Right now I have a mess of wires that are all taped up and zip tied...


----------



## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (skatingzooyork)*

I know it may be a little late for this, but I found this page at HID planet.com. Anyway, they have any resistor you could want.








$0.39 each. oh yeah. Sorry 20 squared.
Direct link:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-330


----------



## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

i need to do this at some point!


----------



## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

get unitronic tune and I think you wont need resistors. CEL free is the way to be.


----------



## skatingzooyork (Mar 13, 2006)

*Re: (ejg3855)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ejg3855* »_get unitronic tune and I think you wont need resistors. CEL free is the way to be.

x2! I'm running the resistors now but once I go BT, Unitronics is where it's at!!


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
That part is wrong for sure. It's showing the N249 line tapped onto the N75 line to the charge pipe? No way. I don't know what else is wrong with that diagram, if anything, b/c I haven't looked at those valves in years and also do not have any spares laying around, but the N249 would get it's boost signal from the intake manifold, not from the charge pipe.

I know the post you made is from 4/08, but just wanted to clarify in case you didn't know.... The beetle has a connection direct from N75 charge pipe line teed off into the N249 normally open port. This does differ from the MK4's as they have a source from manifold before the check valve instead. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thanks for bringing this up.


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (skatingzooyork)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skatingzooyork* »_
x2! I'm running the resistors now but once I go BT, Unitronics is where it's at!!

That's what I have heard too. I have Uni. I unplugged my SAI a week ago. Haven't got a sec to scan for faults. No CEL and I have put on roughly a couple hundred miles with a couple dozen cold/hot starts. So once I get it hooked to a scanner or vag-com, I'll let you all know.
**JUST CONFIRMED**
I hooked up a VW diagnostic machine (not VAG-COM) at the dealership I work for and there are no faults in the system. Did not check for readiness because there shouldn't be a need to with zero faults. So hopefully this weekend I will be able to remove all that junk and make it look cleaner before Waterfest!


_Modified by GLiMKIV at 6:17 PM 7-7-2008_


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

^^^ can this pass emissions if there are no codes when scanning?


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *halchka99* »_^^^ can this pass emissions if there are no codes when scanning?

Usually if your light has not been on, say a few days and you have put a lot of engine cycles through, than yes you should be able to pass emissions. Tomorrow what I will do when I get back to work is go through the readiness and see if all is good. I didn't have enough time to do it tonight. I'll do it during lunch quickly and I'll let you all know.


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

bump for an update


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *halchka99* »_bump for an update

That update will be up by 2:15 so check back!







Gotta wait to go to lunch.


----------



## sys3175 (Jan 26, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (skatingzooyork)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skatingzooyork* »_So guys, after you install the 4 resistors on the different plugs, how do you guys hide them or protect them even?
Right now I have a mess of wires that are all taped up and zip tied...

I'd break out the heat shrink tubing and a heat gun


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (sys3175)*

I just confirmed with Uni BT software and SAI disconnected, my car passed readiness. I will submit a picture after lunch showing 0's across the board if anyone wants to see it.


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

so basically it makes zero difference when removed with the uni


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *halchka99* »_so basically it makes zero difference when removed with the uni

Well, I wouldn't say zero difference. You can remove the SAI without an MIL and not have to worry about readiness. Now, I'm not saying you shouldn't check this all out yourself first before removing anything. This basically just gave me the green light to remove the SAI!


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (GLiMKIV)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

right on... all i care for is passing emissions....


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*

When I had APR, the only fault I had was for O2. That was the only thing that would not pass readiness. But it would still pass inspection. Now with Uni, no faults, all systems a go. No cat, SAI disconnected and I can pass. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to Adam and Unitronic!


----------



## vdubb3dan (Apr 7, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (GLiMKIV)*

Anyone ever done this on a logitudinal car? I've got the saip done, but the other stuff is a little confusing since the setup is a little different. I'm running an 02 AWM. Any help would be great.


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

does SAI have anything to do with passing a smog test?


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *halchka99* »_does SAI have anything to do with passing a smog test?

Its an emissions test. If there is a leak detected, the vehicle automatically fails.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (GLiMKIV)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GLiMKIV* »_
Its an emissions test. If there is a leak detected, the vehicle automatically fails. 

actually, the SAI itself can cause a failure from incorrect flow, which means the O2 sensors are registering too rich or too cool conditions. And if the SAI isn't there, then you can throw a code for malfunction of the sai. The only way to bypass so far is the application of software flash to remove the SAI entirely from being checked or throwing codes. Resistors may not work.


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

so if the 02's are registering too rich or too lean, how would that matter if you have a resistor or the uni flash... wouldnt it still register too rich or lean at the 02?


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
actually, the SAI itself can cause a failure from incorrect flow, which means the O2 sensors are registering too rich or too cool conditions. And if the SAI isn't there, then you can throw a code for malfunction of the sai. The only way to bypass so far is the application of software flash to remove the SAI entirely from being checked or throwing codes. Resistors may not work.

Yes, SAI itself will cause failure due to incorrect flow. He was asking if this was smog and technically it is because its purpose is to heat up the catalyst which is a smog/emissions component. As I stated above after I checked for faults and readiness, Uni's BT software (MAFLess) showed me positive results. After a week of driving with the SAI disconnected, my car did not register any faults, I ran readiness and it passed without any problems. I can't say if this will hold true for NON-BT software. As far as I know, Uni does not remove the function of the SAI in their BT software.


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

*FV-QR*

so it is safe to say... you might be okay with the SAI but since the SAI affects other components those might cause you to fail etc


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (halchka99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *halchka99* »_so it is safe to say... you might be okay with the SAI but since the SAI affects other components those might cause you to fail etc

The purpose of the SAI is to heat up the converter when it's cold. That's why on cold days, you may hear the SAI make a loud noise for about 30 seconds, sometimes longer. This is a very common thing on Passats, especially here in NY. Once that SAI shuts off, that's it, it no longer heats up the converter because the converter has reached its heat up mark. It basically cleans ups the extra richness of the car when cold started. This aids in the heat up stage of the converter. 
I haven't had a converter on my car for a while now and I can pass emissions without it. Obviously visible inspections it fails. Through the computer system it passes. This is why I disconnected it first to see if I can get away without using the SAI. 
Your not gaining nothing tremendous by removal of your SAI other than a cleaner looking engine bay. The plus that I see in it is that there will be less vacuum lines to deal with if they ever begin to leak. 
Just my .02!


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (GLiMKIV)*

I am planning a Unitune sometime soon (Stg 1+ for 225TT), and was told I can get the SAI programmed out for even my flashtune. I want a clean engine bay








...and that of course got my thinking about an AEB because of no SAI...


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_I am planning a Unitune sometime soon (Stg 1+ for 225TT), and was told I can get the SAI programmed out for even my flashtune. I want a clean engine bay








...and that of course got my thinking about an AEB because of no SAI...









That's what Uni did with mine. They flashed tuned it. Obviously double check like I did to make sure before you remove it all.


----------



## nitec (Jan 31, 2006)

not sure if this was mentioned before....
I followed all the instructions in the thread and cleaned everything up....even got rid of the AC and all...
didn't bother with the resistors as the engine is swapped and the CEL light is wired differently - basically it never comes on...
however...just the other day when I was at Tapp auto and was getting Eurodyned - he told me something I was not aware of...
I had noticed earlier my O2 was failing - it is almost brand new so that was a surprise...I thought my connectors were loose so I redid everything but the code came back...so then Tapp told me that the O2 is directly related to the SAI solenoid....without the solenoid - the system is in open loop and runs super rich (i had noticed that...) - he plugged a 33ohm (i think) resistor for the solenoid and got my O2 working again...the car is now much more powerful with a far better consumption...
readiness - sheesh....I pass like 2 out of all checks


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (nitec)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nitec* »_not sure if this was mentioned before....
I followed all the instructions in the thread and cleaned everything up....even got rid of the AC and all...
didn't bother with the resistors as the engine is swapped and the CEL light is wired differently - basically it never comes on...
however...just the other day when I was at Tapp auto and was getting Eurodyned - he told me something I was not aware of...
I had noticed earlier my O2 was failing - it is almost brand new so that was a surprise...I thought my connectors were loose so I redid everything but the code came back...so then Tapp told me that the O2 is directly related to the SAI solenoid....without the solenoid - the system is in open loop and runs super rich (i had noticed that...) - he plugged a 33ohm (i think) resistor for the solenoid and got my O2 working again...the car is now much more powerful with a far better consumption...
readiness - sheesh....I pass like 2 out of all checks









Hmm. That's funny. Because I have had mine disconnected now like I said for about a week. My A/F has been the same. Perfect while cruising on the highway and through town. Perfect at WOT. So I don't know. Maybe because your setup is just so different from mine. My car has not changed the way it performs with the SAI connected and disconnected. 
Each car reacts differently like they say. Either way, good to hear you got your car running good! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (nitec)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nitec* »_so then Tapp told me that the O2 is directly related to the SAI solenoid....without the solenoid - the system is in open loop and runs super rich 

Not true, it's function isn't related to the SAI system, but if the SAI isn't removed properly from the software, you will lose adaptation, ie active fuel trims, unless you install a resistor. This may or may not cause you to run rich depending on how close your hardware is to the hardware the software is written for or how good the software is. The resistor is not needed with our software.


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
Not true, it's function isn't related to the SAI system, but if the SAI isn't removed properly from the software, you will lose adaptation, ie active fuel trims, unless you install a resistor. This may or may not cause you to run rich depending on how close your hardware is to the hardware the software is written for or how good the software is. The resistor is not needed with our software. 

Right on! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nitec (Jan 31, 2006)

i`m pretty sure he didn't bother "removing" the SAI - just chipped the system the way it was - the O2 was throwing codes and was not functioning - I was right there when he did it...and he got rid of that with the resistor....
now - if I stayed stock and didn't chip it - I would have had to have the resistor...
Conclusion: unless you're getting chipped - get that resistor in there or you'll run rich


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Adam, for the Stg1+, can any local Uni rep tune out the SAI, or should I send my ECU to your headquarters to get it properly programmed out?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

Sorry, didn't see this earlier. Right now, we're not doing SAI removal on stage 1/2 files, but I'm trying to convince the home office to do so. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Great, thanks for the info


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

MY CEL went on today on the way into work and I was like no fn way! Then it began to flash for like 3 seconds, funny though, the car didn't run rough. I thought I had jinxed myself by saying my car was all good to go. Anyway, the light went out. Scanned it hoping no SAI faults. Got cyl 1/4 misfire. But the coils are OK. Good thing I got a couple in the car just in case.


----------



## clearight (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (GLiMKIV)*

just did this today. good DIY post dude.
only real performance ive noticed is the dv is alot more snappy that its direct to the manifold.. i likes
all the space is nice too
thanks alot man


----------



## thavok (Jul 19, 2003)

*Re: (clearight)*

so i read all 11 pages of this and i am still lost will this pass emissions or not??


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (thavok)*

it will not pass emissions unless you have software that will remove the codes and set the readiness to pass, or you get lucky and don't throw codes with resistors in.


----------



## thavok (Jul 19, 2003)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

so you remove these put the resistors in and if it throws codes your screwed? or how hard is it to set readiness?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (thavok)*

I dunno if anyone has figured it out yet for the Mk4s. If you don't have the software that can remove the codes, and you have emissions testing and are worried about not passing, don't bother removing it all.


----------



## clearight (Jan 7, 2007)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

LOL i have NH tags
"live free or die"= no emissions
or just find a friend a friend with a vag-com or a modus and ur good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
or u can just sound like a vacuum cleaner every-time u start ur car


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (clearight)*

The chances of you you passing emissions is really slim. Like I said before and I'll say it again, unplug it and leave it like that for a few days. If you CEL doesn't go on get your car checked and see if the readiness will pass. If not, try the resistor and repeat. If it fails readiness don't take it off. If you use Uni like me for a bt setup you should be fine. Mine had been unplugged for almost two weeks with no CEL. Just haven't had the time to remove it. 
Hope this helped.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (clearight)*


_Quote, originally posted by *clearight* »_LOL i have NH tags
"live free or die"= no emissions
or just find a friend a friend with a vag-com or a modus and ur good http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
or u can just sound like a vacuum cleaner every-time u start ur car









I also live in NH with a 1.8T. If you remove the stuff, you are all set as far as the visual goes. But as soon as the CEL lights up, you won't be able to pass the OBD-II test. I just went to get mine done... with N249 and N112 bypassed, and had to reconnect the N112 and plug the SAIp back in to pass. You also have to disconnect the battery and drive for 30+ miles for readiness to set in as well. This state is just another one that doesn't let you get away with much, unless you can fool the ECM into allowing the SAIP to not be a part of the test.


----------



## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I need to have a cam censor seal replaced and was thinking of having all of these systems removed at the same time. Im "assuming" that some of these hoses are in the way anyway and this would just make the seal replacement easier. Is that true? I am running GIAC X+. In my specific situation, what can I remove and not cause any CEL? I do have to worry about emmissions here in NY.


----------



## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Anyone use Eurojet 1.8T Lower PCV Hose Replacement yet?








any pics?


----------



## vdubs4lifekc (Jun 18, 2008)

bump


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (GLiMKIV)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GLiMKIV* »_The chances of you you passing emissions is really slim. Like I said before and I'll say it again, unplug it and leave it like that for a few days. If you CEL doesn't go on get your car checked and see if the readiness will pass. If not, try the resistor and repeat. If it fails readiness don't take it off. If you use Uni like me for a bt setup you should be fine. Mine had been unplugged for almost two weeks with no CEL. Just haven't had the time to remove it. 
Hope this helped. 

I'm just requoting myself only so that people can read it. 
If you DO NOT have software, you probably will not pass. Don't waste your time removing all the stuff and then get a CEL. Electrically unplug it and wait a few days to see if your CEL goes on.  If not, get the car checked out for readiness anyway. Just to be on the safe side. If readiness is all good, then start removing components, one at a time. I can confirm that with UNITRONIC BT software I did not get a CEL and my readiness passed after unplugging my SAI for over a week.


----------



## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (GLiMKIV)*

The only software that is written to remove these CELs is Uni BT, is that correct?
What other software removes the CELs?


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_The only software that is written to remove these CELs is Uni BT, is that correct?
What other software removes the CELs?

From what I understand yes. I have the MAFless file as well. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. I don't think that K03/K04 files from APR, Giac and so on will work.


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_The only software that is written to remove these CELs is Uni BT, is that correct?
What other software removes the CELs?

I believe the offerings from Tapp do too.


_Modified by Boostin20v at 9:47 AM 7-16-2008_


----------



## GLiMKIV (Nov 12, 2006)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boostin20v* »_
I believe the offerings from Tapp do too.

_Modified by Boostin20v at 9:47 AM 7-16-2008_

I think you're right on that one.


----------



## mozcar78 (Nov 30, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (mozcar78)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mozcar78* »_Anyone use Eurojet 1.8T Lower PCV Hose Replacement yet?








any pics?

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWGolfA4* »_I need to have a cam censor seal replaced and was thinking of having all of these systems removed at the same time. Im "assuming" that some of these hoses are in the way anyway and this would just make the seal replacement easier. Is that true? I am running GIAC X+. In my specific situation, what can I remove and not cause any CEL? I do have to worry about emmissions here in NY. 

If you don't want a CEL, then N249 bypass is the only thing you could do. Also, be SURE that NY state doesn't do a generic OBD-II scan BEFORE pulling all that stuff out, even if you don't care about the CEL. The hoses are few, but the rest of the writeup in this post describes several other lines that could be omitted and they are more in the way than the SAI. If you just want to consolidate the PCV system, then have at it- you can't get a CEL from that at all.


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## VWGolfA4 (Apr 5, 2000)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Thank you.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (VWGolfA4)*


_Quote »_Now all that is left are those white lines that are sticking out the top of the container in the back of the engine bay. Get under the passenger side of the car and start unclipping them from the underbody. The white ones ONLY. The black/blue are fuel. Go all the way back to near the fuel filter by the rear wheel. Just disconnect the fittings, and then pull the white lines from the front of the car down and out. You may have to pop the black cover off the top of the canister to properly get those lines out. It's kinda hard to pop off without breaking it but...w/e. And that's it. EVAP is gone. Put a 330ohm resistor on the harness and you shouldn't throw a code.

has anyone had any issues with leaving these lines open off of the tank? I am curious to whether they should be capped off or simply left to vent.


----------



## HereTryThis (Feb 2, 2008)

Also wondering about the white lines... what do we do?


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## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (HereTryThis)*

You can leave em as is. There's no difference if they are open in the engine bay or if you disconnect them back by the fuel filter area and pull the lines off the car.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Billburt (May 2, 2006)

bump to keep on my watched topic list


----------



## s40986a (Dec 1, 2007)

ok so on my passat, I dont know where the sai thingy is located at...


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## njwolfturbo (Jan 31, 2004)

*Re: (s40986a)*

Thank you Mr.Savwko for helping me get rid of my blue balls today








Great DIY/Write up. No emissions in FL & Unitonic BT software with no CEL http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## natsilver (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (InstantKarma)*


_Quote, originally posted by *InstantKarma* »_hey guys,
I took all this stuff out quite some time ago. I hooked my DV (forge) directly to the nipple on the throttle body (the big one on the top where the evap stuff usually goes). I have noticed that my dv is always open now, unless im making boost.
is this the way it should be? should the DV be open at idle and while accelerating? If i am slowly accelerating i can hear air being sucked through the open dv and as i give it more gas i can hear it closing with the more gas i give it. then once i hit 0 on my boost gauge or start making any boost the sound goes away until i let off the gas again.
does the n249 keep the DV closed while at idle and accelerating and stuff? or is the dv normally always open like that?

I know this post was from more than 3 months ago but nobody replied to you.
The N249 delete doesn't really change when the DV is open, it changes _how_ it opens. Gives a quicker, more direct response. Sure, the ECU can no longer open the DV as a safety feature but that's not related to your question. With or without the N249 your DV will be open at idle. It is normal. Also, I don't think the DV is sucking in air but instead it is leaking air back into the intake at part-throttle. Our cars have tiny turbos that are ALWAYS spinning. You can even check for yourself: unplug the TIP port from your DV at idle and put your hand in front of it: you can easily feel the pressure from the air being pushed out of the DV. 

_Quote, originally posted by *InstantKarma* »_i have a feeling thats not the way it should be... because that would mean anyone running a BOV would constantly be sucking in unfiltered air


BOVs do not operate exactly like a DV, most are designed to be closed at idle to avoid sucking unmetered or leaking metered air.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (natsilver)*


_Quote, originally posted by *natsilver* »_
I know this post was from more than 3 months ago but nobody replied to you.
The N249 delete doesn't really change when the DV is open, it changes _how_ it opens. Gives a quicker, more direct response. Sure, the ECU can no longer open the DV as a safety feature but that's not related to your question. With or without the N249 your DV will be open at idle. It is normal. Also, I don't think the DV is sucking in air but instead it is leaking air back into the intake at part-throttle. Our cars have tiny turbos that are ALWAYS spinning. You can even check for yourself: unplug the TIP port from your DV at idle and put your hand in front of it: you can easily feel the pressure from the air being pushed out of the DV. 
BOVs do not operate exactly like a DV, most are designed to be closed at idle to avoid sucking unmetered or leaking metered air.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I'm going to go ahead and say no here. BOVs and DVs operate EXACTLY the same. Your dv should not be open at idle, there is no reason for it to be. They operate the same except the air is rerouted. You could use bosch 710ns as bovs or you can use most BOVs as dvs. There is no functional difference, they do the same thing mechanically.
But this is a thread derailer. Anyone know which bank on unisettings to lean out to stop the SAI code?


----------



## natsilver (Sep 2, 2005)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
I'm going to go ahead and say no here. BOVs and DVs operate EXACTLY the same. Your dv should not be open at idle, there is no reason for it to be. They operate the same except the air is rerouted. You could use bosch 710ns as bovs or you can use most BOVs as dvs. There is no functional difference, they do the same thing mechanically.
But this is a thread derailer. Anyone know which bank on unisettings to lean out to stop the SAI code?

The DV absolutely _should_ be open, there is vac pulling it open. Period. My post was not a thread de-railer, it was completely related to removing the N249 and clarifying something that could have confused many people reading this thread.
The warmup enrich (for cold starts) is Ch 5.


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (themachasy)*

He's right...the DV's stay open b/c the MAF accounts for this. The vac in the manifold should be enough to hold the valve open and recirculate air back to the turbo. This is why they don't work good as BOV's unless you are running no MAF...and why BOVs with MAFs work if they are closed at idle. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

i meant i derailed the thread. Ch 5 perfect I need to dial that back. 
Game on!


----------



## 18Lturbo (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (themachasy)*

did all this ish last night! I think the OP should try and clarify everything for the Evap BS


----------



## 18Lturbo (Nov 28, 2005)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

WELLL ill be runing a DV withOUT a MAF


----------



## s40986a (Dec 1, 2007)

turns out my car doesnt have that sais thing, no pump anywhere under my hood.. spent a few hours with it on the lift the other day at work...


----------



## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

I wish the pictures wont such close ups, I understand what is going on but wont I throw like a billion CEL's ?


----------



## SAVwKO (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: (ejg3855)*

With resistors in you'll throw 2. Evap and SAI improper flow codes.


----------



## WolfsburgTurbo (Mar 29, 2002)

*Re: (SAVwKO)*

I'm not sure if this has been answered in this thread or not (I don't really have time to read 10 pages of this) but my N80 is bad and is causing me trouble when I refuel, i.e., it's taking me several attempts to get it running and then it runs funky (rich) for a few minutes. 
So, I'm trying to figure out a cheap way to solve this problem (like, not spending any money at all). Is it ok if I disconnect the line to the white tube (the end near the green cap pictured below):








Will that cause any problems? Other than causing a CEL, which I could care less about, I have a bad O2 sensor anyway.


----------



## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: (WolfsburgTurbo)*

^^^^
I had all of that evap crap removed, one resistor soldered in, both white tubes connected to each other (dont know if that was good or bad) and drove like that for 3 months without a cel. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 87vr6 (Jan 17, 2002)

*Re: (dckeener)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dckeener* »_^^^^
I had all of that evap crap removed, one resistor soldered in, both white tubes connected to each other (dont know if that was good or bad) and drove like that for 3 months without a cel. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Like to see a picture of this and know whether or not that is a safe practice


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 9, 2008)

*Re: (87vr6)*

I ran mine with the white lines capped with no issues whatsoever. Currently they are both removed and capped back by the fuel filter.


----------



## fast03gti1.8t (Jan 5, 2007)

*Re: ([email protected])*

I also removed the EVAP stuff and ran for about a month with the two white lines open and for the past 2 months I have now had them capped. No change.


----------



## vdubb3dan (Apr 7, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubb3dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubb3dan* »_Anyone ever done this on a logitudinal car? I've got the saip done, but the other stuff is a little confusing since the setup is a little different. I'm running an 02 AWM. Any help would be great.









Anyone?


----------



## vdubb3dan (Apr 7, 2004)

*Re: (s40986a)*


_Quote, originally posted by *s40986a* »_turns out my car doesnt have that sais thing, no pump anywhere under my hood.. spent a few hours with it on the lift the other day at work...

You should most definitely have one unless it's already been removed. If you're still running a stock airbox look in front of it, and you should see a plastic hose running down behind the headlight. Follow that hose, and you'll find the saip.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (vdubb3dan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubb3dan* »_
You should most definitely have one unless it's already been removed. If you're still running a stock airbox look in front of it, and you should see a plastic hose running down behind the headlight. Follow that hose, and you'll find the saip.

SAIP hoses go between airbox near the motor side, down under the intake manifold and are corrugated:


----------



## s40986a (Dec 1, 2007)

yea I have a passat, 98, AEB motor, there is no saip. I've looked. everywhere.


----------



## s40986a (Dec 1, 2007)

yea mine does not have the saic.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (s40986a)*

98's had no SAI!


----------



## s40986a (Dec 1, 2007)

see and what ticks me off is mitchell on demand says it does.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (s40986a)*

Sorry dude, if I noticed your year earlier I would have spoke up. Some of the early cars had no SAI, specialized coil packs with igniter, larger ports for some, and many other minor differences!


----------



## AchTTung (Aug 7, 2007)

ok, i didn't read thru all 10 pages of posts, but relating to the EVAP removal, and the leak detection pump... do you, or do you not get a code? I have an issue with an evap leak now, and I have a CEL for it. I can't pass inspection like this. I'd like to pull the system, but its not worth it if it doesn't clean up the CEL. The concern I have is with soldering a resister for a magic fix. The leak detection pump isn't a resistance signal, the ECU reads pump cycles to calculate whether proper vac is pulled within a certain range of strokes of the pump. This is an 01 Audi TT AMU engine code. Are leak detection pumps specific to the TT, or are you guys just getting lucky by not throwing a code?


----------



## s40986a (Dec 1, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Sorry dude, if I noticed your year earlier I would have spoke up. Some of the early cars had no SAI, specialized coil packs with igniter, larger ports for some, and many other minor differences!

apparently my AEB motor has the large port intake manifold? is that what your referring to?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (s40986a)*

Yes, that was one of the things that MAY be different. Check the FAQ to see if it's one of the engine codes with large ports.


----------



## mcmahonbj (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

sick


----------



## AchTTung (Aug 7, 2007)

_Quote »_ok, i didn't read thru all 10 pages of posts, but relating to the EVAP removal, and the leak detection pump... do you, or do you not get a code? I have an issue with an evap leak now, and I have a CEL for it. I can't pass inspection like this. I'd like to pull the system, but its not worth it if it doesn't clean up the CEL. The concern I have is with soldering a resister for a magic fix. The leak detection pump isn't a resistance signal, the ECU reads pump cycles to calculate whether proper vac is pulled within a certain range of strokes of the pump. This is an 01 Audi TT AMU engine code. Are leak detection pumps specific to the TT, or are you guys just getting lucky by not throwing a code?

Any help? I don't understand how you can get away with this w/o getting a code when the ECU is looking for a certain amount of pumps from the LDP, or is the LDP not installed on all VAG cars?


----------



## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

ill have to take a stab at this, good writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Audihre (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (sounrealx)*

Just removed the EVAP, N249, N112, SAI. Well I went to remove the EVAP crap today and I dont have blue balls. I have a 2001 Audi TT 180q. Seems the evap canister was a black on in the engine bay in front of the power steering. there were 2 white capped lines in the system and then 2 lines in the back corner that went to a mess of hoses and valves in the wheel well. I had 1 electrical wire on the evap in the bay and theres also 1 on the mess in the wheel well. Question is, what do I do with both wire clips and the lines. One of the lines is white the whole way back to the fuel tank and the other is white tipped but a black hose. Heres where Im at with it right now.
Passenger Front Corner








Passenger Corner with 2 of 4 EVAP Lines








Passenger rear corner with 2 hoses leading into wheel well








Wheel well mess








Driver Side








Full bay










_Modified by Audihre at 2:32 PM 9-28-2008_


----------



## sappersMKIV (Dec 17, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Audihre)*

looking forward to doing this. Is it possible to dial into your fuel settings and adjust the car to run leaner/richer at cold startup to eliminate the improper flow code?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Did you remove the PCV valve under the intake manifold?
I did not see it in the picture of stuff that was removed.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (hootyburra)*

Wrote up a DIY for removing the N249 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4048354


----------



## bink_420 (Jul 11, 2008)

thats cclleeaaaannnnnnn lol


----------



## MikeGTI... (Oct 10, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Hello there, ive had a good read through your instructions on how to remove the SAI and the N249 valve, and I am seriously considering doing it to my car. My question is this, my ECU light keeps comming on quite frequently now, with the secondary air flow - incorrect flow detected error. Its getting rather annoying having to keep on resetting the error. You mentioned that by removing this SAI completly and by using the resistor you are bypassing the missing pump error, but not bypassing the Incorrect flow error. What I would like to know, is there a way of removing/bypassing this silly incorrect flow detected error for good? So that it never comes up again in Vag-Com..
Thanks very much, and appologies if this has already been mentioned on here, but theres so many replys its hard to notice it..
Mike


----------



## gbisus13 (Aug 16, 2005)

Hey, Savwko, thanks for doing this excellent DIY. question on the white lines in the evap circuit, at the back of the car, they seem to go up above the fuel tank and whatnot, did you pull the tank etc and cap them somewhere, or is there some line that needs to be run for a replacement vac source? I just cut the lines and silicon sealed them midway under the car for now, this okay? unfortunately the Bentley manual doesnt do a great job explaining what the lines/system does.


----------



## BiH (Nov 27, 2000)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (mozcar78)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mozcar78* »_Anyone use Eurojet 1.8T Lower PCV Hose Replacement yet?








any pics?

I have it, both the upper and lower. prolly not gonna end up using either. do you need pics of the hose itself or installed?


----------



## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (BiH)*

I recently put evap back in because I was sick of the CEL from it which i couldn't get rid of. I managed to cram it all in the passenger wheel well behind the fender liner. I even reran the white lines up behind the fender liner.
I am curious though, does anybody know if there is supposed to be some kind of check valve between the Throttle Body and the Evap solenoid thing? Here are two pictures of how i have it rigged.
















I will try and get some of inside the wheel well next time i have the wheel off. TIA http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dckeener)*

just want to give a huge http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to Mike Savko!!!!!
This guy is a class A #1 good guy!!!! 
Thanks for all your help Mike!
cheers!...i owe you a bout 10





















next time im in OH!


----------



## engineerd18t (Dec 12, 2007)

Im not electronics guy by any means but I stopped by my schools EE dept and asked if they had any of the 330ohm 10watt resistors and he offered me two 750ohm 10watt resistors. I guess it works out to be 1 375ohm 10watt resistor if wired in parallel. Is 375ohm too far from the 330 spec?
Does this resistor work good?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-330
And is it 33ohm or 330ohm for the n249 bypass? 
Thanks removing a lot of that made the lower pcv change a breeze.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (bbeach)*

It works, thats exactly the resistor I used and I'm CEL-free almost two months later http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Euro Skank (Feb 1, 2008)

So Im guessing I can us the MS paint to do a catch can on my 2.8 right?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Euro Skank)*

Just drill two holes in the battery box, and mount it on the left side of the box (next to the IM). Simple, easy, perfect placement http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif My set-up:


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (fouckhest)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fouckhest* »_just want to give a huge http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to Mike Savko!!!!!
This guy is a class A #1 good guy!!!! 
Thanks for all your help Mike!
cheers!...i owe you a bout 10





















next time im in OH!


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

I have resistors for sale if anyone is interested, 
here is the link

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4134796


----------



## Smeedub (Dec 3, 2008)

i hate CA emission standards... cels all over the place smog this smog that... **** it ill just buy a ****ty ass engine and swap every 2 yrs. bull**** regulations....


----------



## BlackRabbit0888 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: (Smeedub)*

this post is still going......and going....and going.....


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (BlackRabbit0888)*

Nice write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i was a little confused







about where some of the lines went and as soon as i seen this pic a light bulb went off lol and everything made sence.








I picked up a Greddy catch can yesterday and im going to mount it to the block by modding the Air Pump bracket so it will be right next to the oil filter and hidden from sight. ill have pics


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (thatAstock18T)*








ms paint saves the day.


----------



## BlackRabbit0888 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

or better yet. go to a machine shop and have then cnc you a bracket that mounts the catch can to the sai bolt holes. Make a few and sell them $$$!
I had the idea of cnc-ing a bracket fpr for quite some time now but you got the perfect place since your sai is gone. I still got mine so i am still trying to find the right spot. I am still waiting for Eurojet to complete their MK4 catch can.


----------



## DaMenace (Nov 1, 2008)

i got 1 question about this can i just take the n249 out and nothing else? and the check engine light will go away? or do i need to get everything out for the check engine light out?


----------



## om_nous (Jun 5, 2007)

I am planning on doing all of these deletes on a 2001.5 NB (AWV). I know our engine bays are a bit different, I was wondering if there is anything I need to know before I dive in? I scanned the whole thread but didn't find any specific mentions.


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

when all of this is done, should there be any non used ports on the bottom of the intake?
the two small ones will be used for the DV and FPR
the two larger ones should be capped? is that correct?


----------



## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

*Re: (thatAstock18T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thatAstock18T* »_when all of this is done, should there be any non used ports on the bottom of the intake?
the two small ones will be used for the DV and FPR
the two larger ones should be capped? is that correct?


yes thats correct http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (ascgti89)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ascgti89* »_

yes thats correct http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

thanks, now your suppost to leave the N112 valve pluged in with no vac lines going to it? should i plug the open lines?










_Modified by thatAstock18T at 4:22 PM 12-22-2008_


----------



## AustinVaughan (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (RussellsGTI)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (thatAstock18T)*

No, thats the N249, the N112 is under the plate attached to the intake manifold. The pic it old, I ditched my N249 (along with the stupid plastic injector harness bracket) a while ago


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

i looked at mine and that gray valve is attached to the plate and theres a gold one that kinda looks like the N75 a couple inches away but attached to that plate with two screws. is that the N112? but we don't have the exact same setup, i have a gti so with my intake going the other way it my be set up a tad bit different.


----------



## om_nous (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: Is it ok to Tee here?*

The redline went to the N249, is this an acceptable source to tee into for the DV (Green Line). I figured since the tee was already there and its so close to the DV it would keep things nice and clean.


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: Is it ok to Tee here? (om_nous)*


_Quote, originally posted by *om_nous* »_The redline went to the N249, is this an acceptable source to tee into for the DV (Green Line). I figured since the tee was already there and its so close to the DV it would keep things nice and clean.









if ur just putting the vac line on the top of the DV u can run it from an open line on the bottom of the intake


----------



## om_nous (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: Is it ok to Tee here? (thatAstock18T)*

Not quite sure what you mean? The tee in the picture is left open by removing the N249, since I will have to cap it anyways I thought it would be a good source for the DV. I just wanted to make sure this is a good source since it connects to the N75.


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: Is it ok to Tee here? (om_nous)*


_Quote, originally posted by *om_nous* »_Not quite sure what you mean? The tee in the picture is left open by removing the N249, since I will have to cap it anyways I thought it would be a good source for the DV. I just wanted to make sure this is a good source since it connects to the N75.

im not 100% sure that is a full time vac source, like u need for the DV. i was saying when i did my sai, n249, pcv, evap edit i just used one of the exciting ports left open on the intake manifold from the edit. there are 4 ports on the intake manifold 2 small and 2 a tad bit larger. 1 of the 2 smaller ports is used for the fuel pressure reg. and the other I used for my DV vac sorce


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: Is it ok to Tee here? (om_nous)*

The N112 is on the schematic next to #15. For lines, run two vac lines, one from the N75 to the intake pipe, and one from the DV to a vac nipple under your intake manifold (you should have at least one free once you dump the N249). Here is my N249 delete DIY from a few months ago, use this and you'll be good (the TT and GTi set-ups don't matter for this, its the same system). Hope that helps



_Modified by l88m22vette at 12:33 PM 12-23-2008_


----------



## om_nous (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: Is it ok to Tee here? (thatAstock18T)*

That was my concern, I don't have an issue with using the ones on the manifold I was just curious.


----------



## Custom158 (Sep 4, 2006)

just a quick question. i went through this entire thread and still just wanna clearify something real fast
the vacuum reservoir on top of the #4 coilpack, can i remove that reservoir, cap that line where it in and not have any ill effects? my DV will continue to work correctly? i just got the 034 coilpack cover for christmas and wanna make sure b removing that nothing will happen


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (Custom158)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Custom158* »_just a quick question. i went through this entire thread and still just wanna clearify something real fast
the vacuum reservoir on top of the #4 coilpack, can i remove that reservoir, cap that line where it in and not have any ill effects? my DV will continue to work correctly? i just got the 034 coilpack cover for christmas and wanna make sure b removing that nothing will happen

yeah u just have to have another vac sorce to the top of ur dv, u can use one of the open ports on the intake manifold


----------



## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

All I want to do is bypass / remove the n249. I don't care about a cel. I need detailed instructions with pics. I can do what's outlined for the n249 at the beginning of this thread, but it jumps right from the n249 to the vacuum resevoir / combi / sai. I just want to stop at the n249 since it's not working.


----------



## Hudy_cz (Jan 3, 2009)

*question*

After removing of this bar what shall I do with this two conectors?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: question (Hudy_cz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6OOM* »_All I want to do is bypass / remove the n249. I don't care about a cel. I need detailed instructions with pics. I can do what's outlined for the n249 at the beginning of this thread, but it jumps right from the n249 to the vacuum resevoir / combi / sai. I just want to stop at the n249 since it's not working.

Look at the pic posted above of me holding the bracket with the solenoids still attached. That's the correct orientation, n249 is on driver side, n112 is on passenger side. If you unbolt that bracket from the intake manifold, unbolt the SAI line from underneath, it'll allow you to rotate the bracket enough to take a look at where the vac lines go to. Take a look at this pic:








The DV line and Vac res line will go to the N249. If you cut the line going to the vac res, you can remove it. You can also pull the line off the hardline for the DV, and put a new line going to a port on the intake manifold. You may need to use a plastic vac T to do this. Unplug the harness for the N249, and get a resistor for the harness. Done!

_Quote, originally posted by *Hudy_cz* »_After removing of this bar what shall I do with this two conectors?

Put resistors in both of em.


----------



## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

I have a question about this diagram:








After I do all of this...what goes into that spot on the Intake Mani? Does it just route straight to the DV? Like this:








I'm just curious because i'm about to do this and i want to make sure i have everything straight. I read all 13 pages and i still am not sure on that one.
I'm sure i would figure it out if i just started pulling everything apart, but i like to be a little more informed first










_Modified by panhandledubs at 9:50 AM 1-8-2009_


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (panhandledubs)*

That's correct. The DV will only have vac line between it and the port on the manifold. So when the manifold sees boost, so does the top of the DV, and similarly with vacuum.


----------



## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

And that's the small opening on the bottom of the intake mani right next to the one for the FPR right?
What about the one that comes out of the side of the manifold that goes to the suction jet pump and all that stuff...what gets routed there?

_Modified by panhandledubs at 11:58 AM 1-8-2009_


_Modified by panhandledubs at 12:05 PM 1-8-2009_


----------



## votexgli (Jul 16, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

so if you put the resistors on 2 other connections besides the sai, the two to get rid of that plastic crap in front of the intake manifold, you will pass emissions right?


----------



## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

I'm so glad i live in FL and don't have to worry about emissions. I just want to get the car running right...and my SAI and suction jet pump are shot...so this is why i'm doing this project.


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

quick question, when u take the big 90 degree tube that also T's off the top of the oil filter flange and re rount it to the catch can. That green peice inside of the T (i belive its a check valve or one way valve) is that left in? j/w because if that green thing is indeed a one way valve that should eliminate the need for a catch can unless its a poor disign and lets oil through it.


----------



## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: (thatAstock18T)*

That's the PCV valve...and it sucks at what it does. Catch Can is the way to go... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (votexgli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *panhandledubs* »_And that's the small opening on the bottom of the intake mani right next to the one for the FPR right?
What about the one that comes out of the side of the manifold that goes to the suction jet pump and all that stuff...what gets routed there?

Correct.
That port is for the brake booster on the firewall. You need that. If you rid of the suction pump make sure to keep a check valve IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION in the line to the brake booster.

_Quote, originally posted by *votexgli* »_so if you put the resistors on 2 other connections besides the sai, the two to get rid of that plastic crap in front of the intake manifold, you will pass emissions right?

I'm gonna have to say no. The N112 controls the combi valve, and pulling that off may cause an improper flow code. Before you remove it totally from the system, unplug the harness and put a resistor in and see if you get an SAI Improper Flow code.


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (panhandledubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *panhandledubs* »_That's the PCV valve...and it sucks at what it does. Catch Can is the way to go... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

alright, i already have a catch can installed. I've installed a whole new short block w/ new head and while i was doing all that i got rid of the pcv, evap, n249 and all that jazz. Now i have low oil pressure. completely warmed up at idil i have 8-10 psi (i have an oil pressure gauge installed) i was thinking it might be the valve not being there making the engine lose pressure. but idk now. the oil pumps new, the head has be acid washed so no sludge build up, i did install a new oil filter flange because a rod went through it and the oil filter flange does have a pressure relief valve in it. not really sure were to check next


----------



## votexgli (Jul 16, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_
Correct.
That port is for the brake booster on the firewall. You need that. If you rid of the suction pump make sure to keep a check valve IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION in the line to the brake booster.
I'm gonna have to say no. The N112 controls the combi valve, and pulling that off may cause an improper flow code. Before you remove it totally from the system, unplug the harness and put a resistor in and see if you get an SAI Improper Flow code.

ive got the eurodyne 630cc file, does that make a difference? I had the sai block off plate and resistor for the sai.


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (votexgli)*

If the software deletes the codes then you don't need resistors in anything, but then again I don't know Eurodyne. I know with Uni when the codes are cleared for those systems you don't need resistors to be in closed loop. Talk to your Eurodyne dealer about having a flash update if possible to clear all that out.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_
Correct.
That port is for the brake booster on the firewall. You need that. If you rid of the suction pump make sure to keep a check valve IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION in the line to the brake booster.

Do you have a picture of how you did this and what you used? What kind of Check Valve would I need or is there a difference? And, if I remove the suction pump, does that port only go to the brake booster?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (panhandledubs)*

No, don't have a picture. Just use the OEM check valves in there already. Buy some new hose that's the same ID, pull everything off that end port, put the new hose on and check valves and run the line straight to the booster.


----------



## ToTheTop (Apr 13, 2007)

watching.


----------



## vwguygti98 (Aug 15, 2003)

*Re: (ToTheTop)*

started the removal process, awesome thread


----------



## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

Did the removal of everything this weekend. Looks GREAT! I'll post pics later, but i have a question... For the Evap system...do I need to plug up the connections by the back tire that the white lines were disconnected from? I'm assuming not, but i just wanted to check.


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (panhandledubs)*

nah i just leave em open and nothing will drain out.


----------



## Big.GTI (Apr 7, 2007)

I want uni to have the option to delete these codes from ALL thier files they would have my money in heartbeat then... Maybe even APR or someone could do it as I already have thier software it could just be an update... Someone anyone, I would feel safer if it was done as part of the tune and not a weekend warrior fix...
I am talking mainly about the incorrect flow and evap codes.... maybe the cyl 2 misfire code too.. j/k


----------



## frostythesnowguy (Nov 28, 2008)

I think unitonic does have a sai and evap delete program.. whats that little box over the coil packs for??


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (frostythesnowguy)*

The "box" is a vac reservoir and the N249


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

im looking to do this to my mk4 gti, when i take out the sai, i know i will get a code, is there anything to do to prevent getting a cel? with the box that is a vac reservoir that sits on top of the engine do i just cut the hose and plug it or can i remove it completely, im kinda confused,
thanks
thanks
espo


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *frostythesnowguy* »_I think unitonic does have a sai and evap delete program.. whats that little box over the coil packs for??

Only on Big Turbo files.

_Quote, originally posted by *tomespo* »_im looking to do this to my mk4 gti, when i take out the sai, i know i will get a code, is there anything to do to prevent getting a cel? with the box that is a vac reservoir that sits on top of the engine do i just cut the hose and plug it or can i remove it completely, im kinda confused,
thanks
thanks
espo

Nope, actually it's hit or miss as some cars won't get the CEL for some odd reason. The vac reservoir ontop of coil pack #4 is for the N249 to control the DV. If you remove it, you must rerun a vac line from the DV directly to the intake manifold. (I'm not 100% certain on the "need to run it directly to" b/c I remember a vac line going from the intake manifold to the n249 bracketry, but that's the whole point behind the n249 part. Direct vac connection from intake mani to DV)


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

i dont have a dv i have a bov so i can just remove it all together


----------



## Zan (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_
Nope, actually it's hit or miss as some cars won't get the CEL for some odd reason. The vac reservoir ontop of coil pack #4 is for the N249 to control the DV. If you remove it, you must rerun a vac line from the DV directly to the intake manifold. (I'm not 100% certain on the "need to run it directly to" b/c I remember a vac line going from the intake manifold to the n249 bracketry, but that's the whole point behind the n249 part. Direct vac connection from intake mani to DV)

I remember you posted a way to get the CEL to go away by leaning cold starts out, and raising up EGTs to warm up the cat within spec. time... Still a good way to go?
Think that could be why some cars get the CEL and others don't?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Zan* »_
I remember you posted a way to get the CEL to go away by leaning cold starts out, and raising up EGTs to warm up the cat within spec. time... Still a good way to go?
Think that could be why some cars get the CEL and others don't? 


That was a theoretical way of doing it that I and Pete from IE (iirc) were talking about way back before I wrote the thread. However I never got it to work, and well...can't edit the first post to delete it so yea...besides having it deleted going BT I'm not sure.


----------



## Zan (Jan 14, 2009)

Well, the SAI is activated by a solenoid...
Is the connector for it three pin or two pin? I'd imagine most of the controlling it is done via relay/solenoid. But where it's detected to be actually active is a good question. 
That could be calculated from the MAF, in which case it's impossible to overcome. It would be awesome to know the specifics of the deletion in the BT files. 
It's either a code ignore/delete entirely (which is much more likely), or a corrected value that would otherwise trigger the ECU to throw a code. There has got to be some other sensor that's alerting to the absence of the SAI/EVAP.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Zan)*

Its based on the N112 valve and flow codes; you can get rid of the N112 with a resistor, but it still won't work because of improper flow. Its all based on readiness; if you can turn off the readiness you're in the clear


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

And the flow comes from the MAF and secondary O2 talking to each other.


----------



## JettaJoeMan (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

how do you keep the CEL off ??? when you remove n249 ???


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (JettaJoeMan)*

330ohm 10watt resistor


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

if i remove the vac reservoir and i have a blow off valve can i remove it all together of just plug the line?
thanks
espo


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*

This has been answered already a few times, it's too bad Vortex allows me to have this name and no p/ms instead of just unbanning my old account so I can edit the first posts of some of these writeups with FAQs for you guys.








Anywho, if you pull the vac reservoir, plug the line and then run a new vac line from your BOV to a source on the intake manifold. If you have to T it into another vac line, such as the FPR, fine.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

I say just copy and re-post them Sav, may as well be as meet the mods halfway








...btw, I love you Boostin, please don't ban me


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

so if i do remove the sai if i get a resistor i wont get a cel correct?


----------



## votexgli (Jul 16, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*

correct if you software deletes the other code
my software(tapp) gets rid of everything and I only needed a resitor the sai, but I am stuck with a n249 code that no matter what you do, you cant get rid of, its a soft code though, no cel and I will still pass inspection


----------



## Cool Me (Dec 2, 2005)

*Re: (votexgli)*

Does the dv make a different sound with everything deleted?


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

all i have is apr 93, thats it so if i do all of this i will get a cel even if i put in whatever resistors i have to? the only thing that really makes me want to do this is my sai make a extremely loud noise when i first start my car and its cold plus it cleans everything up in the bay and looks nice


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tomespo* »_so if i do remove the sai if i get a resistor i wont get a cel correct?

Wrong. The only way you won't get a CEL is if you have Uni/Tapp BT and have the codes erased permanently.

_Quote, originally posted by *votexgli* »_my software(tapp) gets rid of everything and I only needed a resitor the sai, but I am stuck with a n249 code that no matter what you do, you cant get rid of, its a soft code though, no cel and I will still pass inspection

The n249 only requires a resistor, however if your software deletes all of them (n249, n112, sai, evap) then you shouldn't even need resistors at all. I know [email protected] is CEL free and has no resistors and none of the 4 systems I just listed.

_Quote, originally posted by *diggb5* »_Does the dv make a different sound with everything deleted? 

It may. You're getting a true vac signal from the intake manifold instead of a "boosted" vac signal from that reservoir. If it starts to flutter you have a vac leak and need to test the system.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

Just PM'd you sav, but realized your pm's are turned off..
with my tapp file, I get a "evap insufficient vac" or something flow, and also an n112.
Can I only rid the ecu of the n112 file VIA a resistor?


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Tapp _should_ be able to turn both the n112 and evap codes off if he can do the other ones...but I'm not Tapp. I just know for a fact Mike Z can do it. Jeff's Jetta passed Ohio emissions testing with no vvt, no sai, evap, n249, n112, or a cat for that matter. CELless. Oh and no resistors, we just cut the harnesses off.


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

well he might be able to, but i'm not down to send the ecu all the way to Canadia for that.


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Is there a Tapp dealer near you? Usually once the BT chip is on updates can be flashed on, such is the case with Uni. For instance going from 630cc to 830cc is a flash, or 630cc to 630cc MAFless, etc. If someone is close, they can do a read, send it in, he'll send back a file patch with the codes erased which is then uploaded to the car.


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

I'll have to check it out, thanks man. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## worditsmenick (Nov 15, 2005)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Got a question. 
with just deleting the SAI, the vac line on the inlet pipe. if i cut that do i need to plug it or leave it open?
-thanks!


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## panhandledubs (Aug 28, 2008)

Rule of thumb...you never want to leave anything open. Plug it...


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## votexgli (Jul 16, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_Tapp _should_ be able to turn both the n112 and evap codes off if he can do the other ones...but I'm not Tapp. I just know for a fact Mike Z can do it. Jeff's Jetta passed Ohio emissions testing with no vvt, no sai, evap, n249, n112, or a cat for that matter. CELless. Oh and no resistors, we just cut the harnesses off.

yea he said If i want an updated file I just need to mail my ecu up there, hell test it in his personal car and send it back


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## worditsmenick (Nov 15, 2005)

*Re: (panhandledubs)*


_Quote, originally posted by *panhandledubs* »_Rule of thumb...you never want to leave anything open. Plug it...

i figured as much, but never hurts to ask. now i just to find something to put it with.


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## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (worditsmenick)*


_Quote, originally posted by *worditsmenick* »_
i figured as much, but never hurts to ask. now i just to find something to put it with. 

use a bolt.
i'm thinking of just doing a resistor for my n112, and then just hooking my evap back up to my intake manifold. any negative effects from hooking the evap up? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Nah but that's just one more vac source the mani needs to "feed." Not a huge deal, but if you're planning on have the codes cleared no harm in keeping the EVAP out anyways.
Oh, and I'm not 100% for certain on this, BUT...the n112 controls the combi valve. Putting a resistor in the harness will keep the n112 code from popping up however I'm not sure if you'll be getting an improper flow code for the SAI or not. If you want you can test it out easily, just unplug it, add resistor, run car and see if the code comes up.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

well Tapp already deleted the SAI stuff...


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (infinityman)*

Sorry if you said that already, but cool then. Yer a go for n112 resistAr.


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## sleeply337 (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

just did this delete last night ...she smokes a hell of alot more after doing this ...normal...?


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (sleeply337)*

You might be burning off something or another. A couple cars that I've removed this stuff from smoked on the first startup. After a day it should be gone. If it continues to smoke, see if it smells like oil or coolant.


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## sleeply337 (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

sounds good thanx !!might be because i don't have a resistor in the n112 i guess ..eh ..for adaptation..


_Modified by sleeply337 at 7:18 AM 2-13-2009_


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## sleeply337 (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (sleeply337)*

sorry if the answer is somewhere in the previous pages guys !!1..so i need resisitors for ...the evap that i unplugged on passenger side ...n112..n249..and...the sai pump?...thanx for your patience !!!!


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (sleeply337)*

Correctamundo.


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## sleeply337 (Apr 13, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

sweet ....you rock !!!


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## mcmahonbj (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: (UntouchableGTI)*

i thought using the resistor from 20squared took care of the CEL?? i want to do this but if i have to deal with a CEL i wont.


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (mcmahonbj)*

theres nothing special about a "20squared" resistor over any other 330ohm 10watt. doesnt work for sai improper flow and evap improper flow.


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## mcmahonbj (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

i didnt say it was better


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

any way to get rid of those 2 codes besides havin a uni chip

_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_theres nothing special about a "20squared" resistor over any other 330ohm 10watt. doesnt work for sai improper flow and evap improper flow.


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mcmahonbj* »_i didnt say it was better

and i wasnt being a smartass, just clarifying for you and everyone else.

_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_any way to get rid of those 2 codes besides havin a uni chip



not that i know of. sry


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## mcmahonbj (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif so the only thing that would get rid of the cel is running unitronic with the sai/evap/n275 delete option?


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (mcmahonbj)*

yes, or tapp if he does it as well which from what i can tell yes.


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## water&air (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_yes, or tapp if he does it as well which from what i can tell yes.

yes. i have no cel with tapp 630 maffless.


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## mcmahonbj (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (water&air)*

rodge well i guess ill wait till i go BT to do the delete


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (mcmahonbj)*

Jeeze, just read all 15 pages. So many people asking literally the exact same question, most of them also preceding that with a "sorry no time to read all of the previous pages" lol.
Anyways I'm about to ditch all of this stuff. I just want to clarify one thing, and I realize that I'm not the first to ask it... but...
So I remove it all and install 4 resistors.. blah blah. I will still get 2 CEL's. One for EVAP Improper Flow and one for SAI Improper Flow, correct?
Or is it just a *chance* that I will get one or both of these codes? And are they "soft codes" meaning that they go away after I turn off the car? Sorry I am new to CEL's. If I do get a code for the SAI randomly, will it go away randomly as well, or what?
I have REVO so there is no way for me to delete the codes. Is my only other option by clearing them myself with either the dealership scan tool or a Vag-Com?
I applaud you sav for sticking with this thread. I think you should just make a new one with FAQ's in it though so people don't have to read all 15 pages hehe. I would do it myself but you deserve the credit!


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *aadosx* »_Jeeze, just read all 15 pages. So many people asking literally the exact same question, most of them also preceding that with a "sorry no time to read all of the previous pages" lol.
Anyways I'm about to ditch all of this stuff. I just want to clarify one thing, and I realize that I'm not the first to ask it... but...
So I remove it all and install 4 resistors.. blah blah. I will still get 2 CEL's. One for EVAP Improper Flow and one for SAI Improper Flow, correct?
Or is it just a *chance* that I will get one or both of these codes? And are they "soft codes" meaning that they go away after I turn off the car? Sorry I am new to CEL's. If I do get a code for the SAI randomly, will it go away randomly as well, or what?
I have REVO so there is no way for me to delete the codes. Is my only other option by clearing them myself with either the dealership scan tool or a Vag-Com?
I applaud you sav for sticking with this thread. I think you should just make a new one with FAQ's in it though so people don't have to read all 15 pages hehe. I would do it myself but you deserve the credit!










faq http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif great idea


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (aadosx)*

I meant to before they banned my ol name but once they did I was in the ol ef vortex and everyone a part of it mood.
I'll maybe get around to it now. And anyways, to answer your questions, it's by chance (as far as I know) alone that you won't get the improper flow codes. Even with 4 resistors in it'll still pop em. They are not soft codes, so pretty much if you clear em, they'll be back after about 50 miles of driving or a couple startups.


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*

Ok I just changed a lot around but my combi-valve blockoff plate STILL hasn't come in from 20squared so I'm at a stopping point for now. Please tell me if the way I have it all rigged is ok! I have not touched the EVAP system yet.
The black metal bracket that holds the n249 and n112 is still there, both the n112 and n249 are electronically plugged in, but neither has any vacuum hoses hooked up to the intake manifold. I have also removed the vacuum reservoir box from on top of the valve cover. The n112 is still hooked up to the combi-valve, which is still bolted to the block, but like I said there is no vacuum source hooked up to the n112 from the manifold. All of the crinkle hoses have been removed from the car, including the one to the combi-valve as well as the two coming off of the SAI pump. The SAI pump is still on the car though and electronically hooked up.
My DV goes straight to my intake manifold. But the n249 is still plugged in electronically.
Here is what I think will happen, but I need for you to PLEASE confirm this.
Since there is no vacuum source hooked up to the combi-valve, it will stay closed. I'm assuming that how it works is that the n112 routes a vacuum to it through the line which opens it up when it needs to be used (when the SAI pump is running) and then it closes back afterwards. So even though it's there and with no crinkle hose hooked up to it, it doesn't matter... it's acting as a really big block off plate.








Then of course since the SAI pump is plugged in, it will run but air will just go in one hole and out the other since there are no hoses on it. I'm thinking it would be bad to get something in there though so I plan on putting a screen over it until I can take it off the car and put resistors in the plug (don't want to deal with getting under the car today because it's rainy).
I'm guessing that I will only get a code for improper flow for the SAI correct?
Thanks!


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (aadosx)*

Bump.
So last night my SAI pump came on when I turned my car on, like normal, but then also came on twice for a few seconds a few minutes after I started driving around. Then today it didn't even come on in the morning when I first started the car. What's up with that?


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Audihre)*

I am reusing audihre's pics... I also have a TT and am currently removing all this crap. I have a new UNI 830CC BT Mafless tune with all the deletes, so I'm not worried about the Cels; however, I did have questions on the evap. 
I've pulled out the Black Resevoir (TTs don't have blue balls), I've removed the lines that went from it to the firewall & the black box that also has the fuel lines in it.
My question is in relation to the mess of junk in the passenger wheel well, can I just remove it all or will I get a code since it has an electrical connection?
Also what about the two pieces sticking out of the black box next to the gas lines, did ya'll cap them off or what?
I'm thinking about installing a one way check valve back at the fuel filter where the white hose ends allowing it to vent to the atmosphere but it won't allow anything back in, thoughts?

_Quote, originally posted by *Audihre* »_
Passenger Corner with 2 of 4 EVAP Lines








Passenger rear corner with 2 hoses leading into wheel well








Wheel well mess


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (2001TTransport)*

Those coil-pack hold-downs are sweet!


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Those coil-pack hold-downs are sweet!









That was Part of the reason I gave credit on the pics, Not my bay!


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*

What's involved with deleting just the vacuum reservoir covering cylinder #4? Is it a simple pull and plug?


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (bootymac)*

no a little more than pull and plug, I read all 16 pages and a few other post before doing mine


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## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (2001TTransport)*

Before i started really getting into it i just pulled and plugged the reservoir and didn't notice any difference.
BTW that bay with a little less useless crap in it would look money


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dckeener)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dckeener* »_Before i started really getting into it i just pulled and plugged the reservoir and didn't notice any difference.
BTW that bay with a little less useless crap in it would look money









I hear that. Eventually I even wanna hide the DV hose and N75 supply line behind the charge pipe. I think only a few things need to be removed for these bays to look great, and getting rid of coolant bottle or moving battery really aren't necessary to achieve this. But getting rid of the washer bottle is always a good idea! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (bootymac)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bootymac* »_What's involved with deleting just the vacuum reservoir covering cylinder #4? Is it a simple pull and plug?


As they said there is more to it than that. It seems to be used not only for the n249 (which controls the DV) but also the n112 which controls the combi-valve. I'm not sure now neccessary it is for either but it's definitely hooked up to both.
I would guess that it's only really NEEDED for the DV though when using the n249, though it might not be necessary. If you wanted to keep the combi valve and SAI stuff, I'm pretty sure you could get away with running the DV directly to the intake manifold and then pulling that vacuum reservoir on top of cyl. 4 and capping the line that runs to it.


_Modified by aadosx at 5:11 PM 3-2-2009_


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (aadosx)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aadosx* »_Jeeze, just read all 15 pages. So many people asking literally the exact same question, most of them also preceding that with a "sorry no time to read all of the previous pages" lol.
Anyways I'm about to ditch all of this stuff. I just want to clarify one thing, and I realize that I'm not the first to ask it... but...
So I remove it all and install 4 resistors.. blah blah. I will still get 2 CEL's. One for EVAP Improper Flow and one for SAI Improper Flow, correct?
Or is it just a *chance* that I will get one or both of these codes? And are they "soft codes" meaning that they go away after I turn off the car? Sorry I am new to CEL's. If I do get a code for the SAI randomly, will it go away randomly as well, or what?
I have REVO so there is no way for me to delete the codes. Is my only other option by clearing them myself with either the dealership scan tool or a Vag-Com?
I applaud you sav for sticking with this thread. I think you should just make a new one with FAQ's in it though so people don't have to read all 15 pages hehe. I would do it myself but you deserve the credit!










hey i have revo 440cc file. besides the fact that i am running on 3 cylinders and i have a constant cylinder misfire code. my car doesnt throw the two codes everyone says come. up guess i am lucky
just remove it all


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

Hrmm maybe you are. I'm on the basic stage 1 revo file. I was lucky enough to go a few days w/out a CEL for removing the SAI system but this morning it finally showed up (CEL) =( I don't have a way to scan or clear it though.. so I hope it's for the SAI system! lol..


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dckeener* »_Before i started really getting into it i just pulled and plugged the reservoir and didn't notice any difference.
BTW that bay with a little less useless crap in it would look money










Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll give it a try and see what happens. 
As for the bay, I'm going to be ditching the grounding cables to clean things up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (bootymac)*

If anyone is interested I have some resistors for sale.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4275558


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## MdvWGolf8901 (Jul 19, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

what will happen to ur engine when u take out all this stuff does it make it run better or something


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## WereWolfsBurg1 (Feb 19, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

bump nasty, i like how clean it is in there, when it isnt below freezing here in ****ty groton im going to clean up my engine bay too


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (MdvWGolf8901)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MdvWGolf8901* »_what will happen to ur engine when u take out all this stuff does it make it run better or something

Less electrical solenoids running means less likely to be under the hood figuring out a problem with vac leaks or weird CELs for stuff you don't need in there. Plus it's easier to work on the motor with all of these systems removed.


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## bravofox (Sep 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (ALT3rEg0)*

regarding the pcv system, what do you guys think about relocating the p.c.v. valve from the t.i.p. and connecting directly to the intake manifold? there is a smaller hose with a check valve that tee's out of the top of the oil filter housing and connects to one of the larger vacuum ports on the bottom of the intake. this port could be drilled out and tapped for a larger fitting (or one could be installed elsewhere on the manifold) that the p.c.v. valve could be connected to. this would avoid running all of that oil and condensation through the turbo, intercooler, and the rest of the intake tract (possibly eliminating the need for a catch can?). many naturally aspirated engines run their p.c.v. systems this way, but perhaps that's because of the absence of boost? is this the reason for mounting the p.c.v. valve before the turbo in the first place?


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## aadosx (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (bravofox)*

You could do that but you would have to be sure to have a check valve in the line that goes to the intake manifold. Without the check valve, once your intake manifold gets pressurized (when under boost from the turbo), that pressure would run through the line into your crank case.. which would be very bad. Also, you wouldn't be allowing the crank case to vent when you're under boost which is bad. It's much better to have blowby and sludge go into the combustion chamber than through your turbo, like you said. The stock system just uses both.
On that note, I have a catch. It seems that everyone here thinks that since there is positive crank case pressure, there is no need for the connection to the intake manifold to "pull" gasses/sludge out of the crank case. After my own personal testing it seems like some pull on those gasses would be nice. I'm getting a lot of trapped sludge in my lines so I'm thinking if I put a T fitting post catch-can and run a line to the intake manifold with a check valve (very important) then it will help keep my catch-can lines clearer.


_Modified by aadosx at 5:31 PM 3-5-2009_


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (bravofox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bravofox* »_regarding the pcv system, what do you guys think about relocating the p.c.v. valve from the t.i.p. and connecting directly to the intake manifold? there is a smaller hose with a check valve that tee's out of the top of the oil filter housing and connects to one of the larger vacuum ports on the bottom of the intake. this port could be drilled out and tapped for a larger fitting (or one could be installed elsewhere on the manifold) that the p.c.v. valve could be connected to. this would avoid running all of that oil and condensation through the turbo, intercooler, and the rest of the intake tract (possibly eliminating the need for a catch can?). many naturally aspirated engines run their p.c.v. systems this way, but perhaps that's because of the absence of boost? is this the reason for mounting the p.c.v. valve before the turbo in the first place? 

The problem with that is the only time you are pulling crankcase pressure out is when you're not on the throttle. At that point, who cares? When in boost you want to be pulling pressure outa the crankcase, and having the pcv only hooked up to the intake mani won't allow for that.
Therefore you should run it through a catch can and then to an inlet pipe or your downpipe so the vac pulls all the time.


----------



## bravofox (Sep 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (ALT3rEg0)*

yeah, i guess i was just making sure that it WOULDN'T work that way. this is my first turbocharged car, so even when i'm pretty sure i know how it works, i just want to be certain. your guy's explanation was right in line with my original understanding of the system, which is the vacuum source for the p.c.v. needs to be before the turbo where it is in a constant state of vacuum. aadosx, are you just running your p.c.v. lines into a catch can with no vacuum line out, or were you talking about adding an additional check-valved vacuum line tee'd in after the can? i've seen people running catch cans with filters on top. that would make sense if the can was only under positive pressure from the motor and the filter was a vent, but in this application with the can being under vacuum, wouldn't a "closed" system be better? it seems like the filter would become the least restrictive source for the intake to pull from, leaving the lines out of the motor to rely on their own positive pressure into the can rather than being pulled by vacuum. kind of like a straw with a hole in it, it works, but when you plug the hole it works a lot better. but i could be wrong, maybe a vented catch can flows better. i'm sure i'm not the only one interested in the answer if anyone has it. one last thing, mike mentioned connecting the catch can to the downpipe rather than the inlet pipe. it makes sense and sounds interesting, do you have any more information on that?


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (bravofox)*

Will someone send me a n249? the gold thing?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (bravofox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bravofox* »_one last thing, mike mentioned connecting the catch can to the downpipe rather than the inlet pipe. it makes sense and sounds interesting, do you have any more information on that?

Summit/Jegs sells a bung and check valve to be welded into your exhaust at like a 45° angle. If you go this route I def recommend using a catch can else anyone driving behind you will smell putrid burning engine gunk whenever you're WOT.
And as far as the vented stuff, I'm sure it works but it's gonna vent all over the bay eventually. Keep a rag handy.


----------



## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_Will someone send me a n249? the gold thing?

LOL smart thinkin. You can use a n75 too if you still have that infinityman. 
I need one 2. Well, I need 2 actually. IM me for payment and shipping instruction.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (bravofox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bravofox* »_i've seen people running catch cans with filters on top. that would make sense if the can was only under positive pressure from the motor and the filter was a vent, but in this application with the can being under vacuum, wouldn't a "closed" system be better? it seems like the filter would become the least restrictive source for the intake to pull from, leaving the lines out of the motor to rely on their own positive pressure into the can rather than being pulled by vacuum. kind of like a straw with a hole in it, it works, but when you plug the hole it works a lot better. but i could be wrong, maybe a vented catch can flows better. i'm sure i'm not the only one interested in the answer if anyone has it.

Vented catch cans are great for lack of extra crap underhood, and less TIP attached components to fail or leak into the post-MAF airstream. It prevents the polluted, slimy stuff from the crankcase burning away in your motor and clotting the valves or TB if the stock system fails (and they all do.) 
But I digress... 
The stock system works admirably for a short period of time. If it wasn't for the plastic brittle pipes and swollen hoses, or maybe the prone-to-clog UFO valve perched up on the TIP, the stock system would work for quite a few miles and function very well. Replacing these parts with a catch can (properly designed with generous baffles and wadding) AND a TIP connection to draw the crankcase gasses out will certainly aid the process. If those gasses were to condense in the case, the resulting liquids would break down the engine oil faster and speed up internal engine sludge and wear. The stock system and also catch cans similar to it allow mostly just the oil vapors to gravity-feed back to the case while the by-products get consumed by the motor.
As for adding a filtered catch can design to the stock system.... Think of the crankcase as being a sealed container with one opening at the intake ports and the other at the PCV vent bungs. All MAF-read air needs to be accounted for so the engine can fuel properly. With a filter on the PCV lines, even at the catch can, there would be unmetered air entering the intake stream. If you used a check valve, it couldn't do anything of value since the shut side would have to face the TIP, therefore none of the PCV gasses would make it to the TIP. 
A simpler method would be to either use the tried and true catch can method shown in many tutorials with TIP connection or just vent the top of a catch can and seal the hole in the TIP. There may be a very slight performance increase on a vented setup as the foul stuff doesn't have to be burned in the engine at all.







But that's a guess!


_Modified by zeusenergy at 7:23 PM 3-8-2009_


----------



## bravofox (Sep 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

i know resistors been discussed a few different times, but if the n249, n112, and evap (n80?) are electrically connected with the ports plugged, are they still necessary? is there any benefit to leaving them connected, even with resistors? i've read that unitronic can turn the CELs off on their big turbo files, but how about those who want to keep the ko3s? is it not possible, or just not offered?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (bravofox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bravofox* »_i know resistors been discussed a few different times, but if the n249, n112, and evap (n80?) are electrically connected with the ports plugged, are they still necessary? is there any benefit to leaving them connected, even with resistors? i've read that unitronic can turn the CELs off on their big turbo files, but how about those who want to keep the ko3s? is it not possible, or just not offered? 

Not offered. I've asked so many times. I'd also like an option even for an extra $100 or so, of deleting those items.
But there is no benefit to leaving them plugged in. Just takes up room, clutters your bay (which is the real reason for taking out these systems)...
It's better to shorten the harnesses and add the resistors either inside a bundled harness or at the ECU connector itself (More slick...)
I will have to have a way to replace at least the SAIP and N112 in cases of inspection, since I have to pass the OBD-II scan. Without the SAIP pumping air to the exhaust stream, my car will pop an "insufficient flow" from SAIP. I will build a small harness adapter cable and leave a hidden vac port for N112 input, as well as shortening the harness up to the ECU and having simple connectors for swapping between harness and resistors. Simply mount the whole deal with zip ties when testing. I won't be completely omitting the evap, so that's not a problem- just the TIP line and associated pipe and hose. My evap will run only from TB with a check valve. At that point almost everything unneeded will be gone. I was blessed with a metal PCV pipe and the hoses are fine for now, with tiny amounts of oil in the pancake like it should be. If I do ever get a catch can, I'll use the original pipe to help make it look OEM.
If you really want to get rid of stuff, add a cone filter or CAI... then relocate your battery AND washer tank to the trunk. Pull back the battery fuse box into the cab (or rain tray) and extend the other wires (starter, etc.)
Hide your harnesses as best you can, such as the injector harness under the intake, and also hide the vacuum/boost distribution. This is as far as I will go. 
But for REAL shaving, you can rid the power steering res and coolant tank- ditch your fuel lines for custom ones too. Then strip the bay and cut off mounts and smooth all the lumps and ridges. Decide if you really need A/C and ditch that too if you are







nuts!


----------



## Big.GTI (Apr 7, 2007)

How much more money could APR, UNI, Tapp, Revo ect make if they just offered to remove those codes for the stock turbo folks. They would have mine in a heartbeat, so come on guys why not? I would prefer it if APR did it as I have thier software now but would be willing to dithch them for the first guys to offer it out at a resonable price...


----------



## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

*Re: (Big.GTI)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Great writeup, I did this a few months ago... Just installed a 42DD Vacuum Manifold to help even more! 
































Don't mind all the other stuff in there, filter is being replaced this weekend as well as some of the wire mess I have laying around from moving the battery to the trunk, oil temp/pressure/water temp gauges.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Malant)*

^^Nice pix... looks like you're on your way to finishing up at this point. Couple questions:
1) How are the PCV lines routed underneath? Drip out mode, or catch?
2) Do you have any coolant overflow issues? Did you solve the problem, if so how?
3) Is the battery fusebox pulled back inside the car or just in the rain tray?
4) Your power steering res looks good. Any mods to it?
P.S. If you want a cheap filter solution, try a PCV elbow and cap, or just the cap as an adapter, Find the perfect fit to the cap and use the plastic from the airbox inside the cap along with the air horn. 
For example, using a 4" filter, 3" long piece of 4" PCV, and 4" PCV cap. The beveled top can be sanded flatter as need be in minutes or seconds depending on how you do it. Glue the short 3" piece of PCV tube into the cap. Drill a hole with a hole saw (matched in size to your MAF inside diameter) into the cap sand a sealing surfacefor the MAF. Mark the two mounting holes with the MAF. Drill the holes through larger than the screws for the MAF. Cut the airbox top around the sealing surface of the MAF and install inside the cap, or you can leave that part out and bond the air horn into the PCV cap opening trimming as you need to. Then it's a matter of bolting the MAF to the cap and you're in business. Vinyl paint like Krylon Fusion bonds well to it, and so does spray cans of bedliner.







Gives that krinkled look! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








It's just an adapter idea I've had anyway...


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Like this (not to scale or anything.. quick illustration):










_Modified by zeusenergy at 8:36 AM 3-13-2009_


----------



## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

_1) How are the PCV lines routed underneath? Drip out mode, or catch?
_
PCV lines right now just dump to ground, currently looking into doing something very custom that will look VERY clean.
_2) Do you have any coolant overflow issues? Did you solve the problem, if so how?_
No coolant overflow issues, when I first put it in I was but my water pump/thermostat was also shot. I replaced those and bled the system, has been running since January with 0 problems, haven't had to top it off yet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
_3) Is the battery fusebox pulled back inside the car or just in the rain tray?_
The battery fuse box is under the frame rail, fabbing up a battery box that should hold the fuse box as well as my small battery that will sit under the frame rail but still be protected from the elements.
_4) Your power steering res looks good. Any mods to it?_
No mods to the power steering res, once I make the piping for my FMIC (going to be hidden) I will move the res into the place of the stock SMIC.
I will take a look at your advice about the filter solution, sounds pretty interesting http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thanks for the input!
-John


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

Anyone have a Gray N249(or n112, whatever it is called) still?
Also, looking for this wiring harness piece (on the right).
If anyone has the wiring harness piece/clip that they cut, please mail it to me









__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (infinityman)*

Haha, thief







The harness is in the box http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (infinityman)*

Look at all that junk! It's no wonder we strive to rid ourselves of that snaggled mess. And that's only a small portion of what can be removed...
So why you need the N249 back?


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Haha, thief







The harness is in the box http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Sweeet. I just need 1 more harness, and 1 more gray n249 or whatever ( maybe it's 112, i dont know. the gray one!)
someone send me one!


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_
Sweeet. I just need 1 more harness, and 1 more gray n249 or whatever ( maybe it's 112, i dont know. the gray one!)
someone send me one!









You can mod any of the myriad solenoid valves from euro cars for this application if you don't care about stock and just want functions. I got one from a SAAB. I do think I have an N249 (three open ports) if you want it.
EDIT: for the price of an answer to my question....










_Modified by zeusenergy at 8:20 AM 3-14-2009_


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

PM'd


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (infinityman)*

Right back at you...


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

what did you guys do with the brake booster hose


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_what did you guys do with the brake booster hose 

The brake booster hose is still there, just some people have chosen to route it differently. In the previous picture with the vacuum manifold the hose is just routed lower in the engine bay near the coolant/oil lines on the driver side, it then comes up behind the TIP and into the Vacuum Manifold. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

cool yea i was wondering because there is the 2 lines that merge together then go to it so just run one line instead of the 2


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_cool yea i was wondering because there is the 2 lines that merge together then go to it so just run one line instead of the 2

This writeup will have you "delete" one of those lines.


----------



## PhilW (Jan 3, 2006)

Has anyone figured out what resistor to use for the evap/n80 valve yet?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (PhilW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhilW* »_Has anyone figured out what resistor to use for the evap/n80 valve yet?

330 Ohm, 10 Watt should work great to be sure.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_
This writeup will have you "delete" one of those lines.


thanks john you the man


----------



## mcmahonbj (Jun 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

im tempted to tackle this but not till i get unitronic software so i dont have to deal with a cel!


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (mcmahonbj)*

You can always do the PCV edit first as that doesn't cause problems, or N249 bypass.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

any info on vag-com trickery to turn off readiness to prevent CELs?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_any info on vag-com trickery to turn off readiness to prevent CELs?

Haven't heard any news here... This has been rehashed so often in the Tex, and no one has come up with a good solution yet. I wish it could be done too! But it's okay since Unitronic can shut that junk off for a C note along with their software. I'm sure they could also just shut it off on stock tune, but you know that won't happen. I don't blame them! If we knew the code for the stock programming like the tuning companies (open sourced of course) then we would be all set and wouldn't need to buy $500+ software tunes... and the tuners would die off. So be it- Unitronic, here I come!








(well, at least this summer)


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

Talk to your local Uni dealers, the files are available either upon special request or they are on the server. I actually just did a flash update for a customer last weekend, the file is listed for the same price as Stage 2+, or $650, so if you have Uni already, just figure out what your upgrade cost is. Most of the emission delete files are all for 1.8T and Mike said there's like 30 or so ECU versions listed on the server now.








Oh and I got a text from the customer couple days ago saying he passed emissions testing. No EVAP, no SAI, etc.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*

I've heard (from Adam?) that its $100 to turn off readiness...
So, assume someone knows how to get rid of readiness simply using vag-com...would they get in trouble by the Vortex mods? Could free "tuning" tips get you banned?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*

Doubt it, but who knows how to set the readiness in VAG COM? I think there was a writeup to do it on Mk3s or something, but not the newer cars, or ME7 for that matter.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*

I agree. The very few people passionate enough about the ME7 programming and the cars they go into have made money hand over fist, why would they destroy the market by releasing open source files?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

Maybe for the same reason some people use Unix/Linux and others Windows


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Maybe for the same reason some people use Unix/Linux and others Windows

Word.
I do wish it was open source. I "got root" too ya know http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
My router is a FreeBSD based machine (monowall) and it's got all the functions (VPN, advanced firewall, captive portal, multiple interfaces, etc) and super reliable, to buy something similar would cost $500+!
If I could get my hands on open source ME7 wares that worked half as well as my router I would be giddy as a schoolgirl.


----------



## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Been waiting to utilize this post for awhile. Just gutted the car yesterday. Thanks for the guide! (I now have a box full of crap that used to be parts in my car, I can't believe how much junk these systems contain!)


----------



## SinnerDC2 (Nov 8, 2008)

yep, I got a CEL from EVAC flow problem after removing this stuff. I hate cels.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re:  (SinnerDC2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SinnerDC2* »_yep, I got a CEL from EVAC flow problem after removing this stuff. I hate cels.

That's the only CEL I get (Tapp didn't erase that for some reason for me)
so I just plugged evap back in to a vac source. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (infinityman)*


_Quote, originally posted by *infinityman* »_
That's the only CEL I get (Tapp didn't erase that for some reason for me)
so I just plugged evap back in to a vac source. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I'm going to make sure this doesn't happen to me and even if it for some reason did, you can always plug in the vac source before inspections.


----------



## infinityman (Sep 3, 2004)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_I'm going to make sure this doesn't happen to me and even if it for some reason did, you can always plug in the vac source before inspections.

I just don't like having the CEL on. I run Iowa plates, no inspections. haha


----------



## gbisus13 (Aug 16, 2005)

Hey I just wanted to thank all on the info for this project. Finally got the PCV/catchcan done, and like savwko said, it may look like hell, but i know where everything goes.
cheers guys


----------



## tainted_demon (Aug 8, 2008)

What would be the benefit of doing this other then removing a bit of weight and cleaning up the engine bay?
Does this have any adverse effects on the engine?
Where I live we don't have emission laws so I might do this if it's all ups and no downs. 
Thanks,
-Colin


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (tainted_demon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tainted_demon* »_
Where I live we don't have emission laws so I might do this if it's all ups and no downs. 
Thanks,
-Colin

for you its a very good thing to do. i think the main idea here is to get the engine bay to look alot more simplified. 

i had all the stuff removed on revo bt for about a month before my motor went, and i had no codes for this stuff. not sure why. 
in maryland i do have emissions.
the past two trips i have gotten waivers because they dont wanna mess up my car going over the rollers.
not sure what i will if i had to put everything back in, i think i would be getting a new ecu and getting uni software.
i dont have any of the evap lines under the hood anymore. and everything else will be routed different.
my current status








the ultimate cleaning up of engine bay removing the motor. try driving like that


----------



## Mr.V-Dub (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: (vwgolfracer)*

^^^=that truly is the ultimate DIY cleaning of the bays!








Honestly, though...cleaning all of the shii out makes it look a ton better. IMO


----------



## bravofox (Sep 16, 2008)

*Re: (Mr.V-Dub)*

it's my understanding that because unitronic (as well as some other software) can now delete these CELs, the resistors are no longer necessary. i've got my SAI, n249, n112, and n80 all removed, and the harnesses (no resistors) hidden away with the connectors wrapped in electrical tape. i'm hesitant about cutting them off, so i guess i'm just "storing" them in case i ever have to hook any of this stuff up again. out of sight, out of mind. or at least out of the way. i'll be getting a uni file with these deletes once the car is driveable again, hopefully in the near future, but in the meantime i want to get the hardware straightened out. is it still necessary to leave the n112 plugged in electrically for adaptation even with new software? its not a big deal to plug it in and hide it, but i won't bother if its not needed.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (bravofox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bravofox* »_it's my understanding that because unitronic (as well as some other software) can now delete these CELs, the resistors are no longer necessary. ... is it still necessary to leave the n112 plugged in electrically for adaptation even with new software? its not a big deal to plug it in and hide it, but i won't bother if its not needed.

I talked to Chris(?) at Unitronic over the phone a couple weeks back. I had alot of Q's for him about just that. He said the resistors and devices are unneeded and the wires may be clipped or just unplugged for BT files, or deletes on K03 files. Call them and CONFIRM this as another customer! They are friendly and quite smart... 








Maybe somebody will chime in here and tell us this is so.


----------



## ghettojetta20vT (Jul 3, 2005)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

well im running the Uni MAFless 630 file with the n249, SAI, Combi valve and i think some other stuff removed as well. Marco at SEM here in toronto did all the work. Haven't had a cell at all.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (ghettojetta20vT)*

Thanks for the post, but we were talking about K03 files in particular. You didn't need any resistors or N112/SAIP/N249's plugged in right?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Thanks for the post, but we were talking about K03 files in particular. You didn't need any resistors or N112/SAIP/N249's plugged in right?

As I said a couple posts back, I did a flash update to a Stg2 customer and 2 days later he went right thru Cuyahoga County (Cleveland area) emissions testing. Doesn't have any of those 4 systems plugged in.


----------



## rogerius (Jun 14, 2004)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

did he use resistors?


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (rogerius)*

no


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

No one believes us man!








It's true, Uni K03 tunes can have deletes with NOTHING plugged in. Thanks BTW for the post, forgot you had said that. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## justn868 (Jan 20, 2008)

*FV-QR*

great write up...followed every step, and didnt leave to figure anything out myself


----------



## ghostinator (Aug 16, 2008)

Hello Everyone!
I want to let everyone know the issues ive had after the evap removal.
After removing the hoses, on warm/hot days i kept getting a super strong gas smell that was coming from the little white hoses next to the fuel lines. 
Everytime i would go to put gas in my car, the fumes would backup and cause gas to shoot/spray back out the filler neck. 
I hooked it back up (which is only a couple of hoses) and all my problems are gone. I apparently have a large and small leak though.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (ghostinator)*

Single-line evap also works: remove TIP connection and plug it, reduce other end to just the one N80-to-throttle body hose (with the check valve of course!!)
At least you are rid of the pipe at the back of the head (in my case) plus complex and clustered lines.


----------



## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Single-line evap also works: remove TIP connection and plug it, reduce other end to just the one N80-to-throttle body hose (with the check valve of course!!)
At least you are rid of the pipe at the back of the head (in my case) plus complex and clustered lines.

It really is amazing how many lines you dump when you rip out the whole system, sai, etc....


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (IzVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IzVW* »_
It really is amazing how many lines you dump when you rip out the whole system, sai, etc....

Yeah it is. I still have a long way to go, but will remove it all after Uni tune + deletes. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
IzVW: Do you think it would be a big deal to go atmospheric with PCV, considering the split recommendations I've heard? I would prefer to have simple filters for each, don't care about 1-2 HP loss or fumes. Your advice is wecomed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Yeah it is. I still have a long way to go, but will remove it all after Uni tune + deletes. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
IzVW: Do you think it would be a big deal to go atmospheric with PCV, considering the split recommendations I've heard? I would prefer to have simple filters for each, don't care about 1-2 HP loss or fumes. Your advice is wecomed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Eh, it probably doesn't matter. Best thing to do IMO is to run a catch can PCV system and connect the outlet to the EXHAUST for pull. Plus you burn off all the crap instead of it going to the intake, while still getting good vac in the system. Illegal btw.








But if you look at some big build threads around here (Like Ed's) they all seem to just vent to atmo and work just fine. It's probably more preference than anything, I just kinda think you want to have some vac on the lines to pull the junk out and a can to collect said junk.
I'm actually going to install a real deal catch system now that I gutted the rest of the engine area and have some room, and connect it to the port on the inletpipe just like the stock setup, but without the UFO thingy.


_Modified by IzVW at 9:01 AM 4-6-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (IzVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IzVW* »_
Eh, it probably doesn't matter. ...
I'm actually going to install a real deal catch system now that I gutted the rest of the engine area and have some room, and connect it to the port on the inletpipe just like the stock setup, but without the UFO thingy.

That sounds good. My biggest thing is piping from the two ports, and having it hidden or molded in as best as can be done. In the end I want ZERO crap underhood, and what is there should look like it belongs and not an afterthought. 
Sadly I can't do a BT for a while, so once my stage 1 setup is complete, I'll have to hack back into it again and redo it all a second time.








Of course the PCV system won't be affected much by the BT transition.
I'm rather interested in having two small breather filters side by side, serving both ports. They would rise above the valve cover just high enough to clear the needed 90 degree elbow hose coming off the valve cover port. Maybe tie the two together with a crossover pipe so fluids can seep back to the pan? Would the filters (esp. VC one) get saturated with oil? Remember they will both have ports facing down.


----------



## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I don't think you'll wanna let the catch can fluids fall back to the pan. There's some pretty nasty gunk that comes outa there, including condensation from combustion.
I don't have pics to show yet of the setup I'm doing, but I'm using a non-catch can reservoir as a catch can. The inlet/outlet are at the bottom, and the bottom is lower than the oil filter housing. So the valve cover fitting will come down to the top of the oil filter housing, and then both will combine and go down toward the inlet of the can. Then I'll have one of those -10 Y blocks, and the single pcv line will go in the single side of the Y, and the top outlet will go up to the can, the bottom outlet will go down toward the ground with a shut off valve. I'll have a vac tap on the exhaust to pull it all, but when the cars off, it'll all drain back into the Y block piece, and then fall again down the tube to the SOV. that way I can drain it whenever, and the can won't actually get filled up.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

I'm thinking you may have a point. The stock system allows for condensed fluids to seep back to the pan, and it tends to gunk up the motor...
Maybe I'll bend some small pipes up and elbow/tee with silicone couplers, and land the tank where the SAI valve is currently. I don't want a far remote catch tank, keeping it close to the motor and lines short might be more up my alley. The TIP connection to the UFO is right there, too. No exhaust draw for me...


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (ghostinator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ghostinator* »_Hello Everyone!
I want to let everyone know the issues ive had after the evap removal.
After removing the hoses, on warm/hot days i kept getting a super strong gas smell that was coming from the little white hoses next to the fuel lines. 
Everytime i would go to put gas in my car, the fumes would backup and cause gas to shoot/spray back out the filler neck. 
I hooked it back up (which is only a couple of hoses) and all my problems are gone. I apparently have a large and small leak though. 

anyone else having this issue.. my motor out of my car now but i did notice two days ago a pretty strong fuel odor next to my car,


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (vwgolfracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgolfracer* »_
anyone else having this issue.. my motor out of my car now but i did notice two days ago a pretty strong fuel odor next to my car,

Well with the motor out your fuel lines and evap lines are open to the air, silly. Any temperature changes will heat the tank and let fumes out of the lines up front.


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## 2001TTransport (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_
I don't have pics to show yet of the setup I'm doing, but I'm using a non-catch can reservoir as a catch can. The inlet/outlet are at the bottom, and the bottom is lower than the oil filter housing. So the valve cover fitting will come down to the top of the oil filter housing, and then both will combine and go down toward the inlet of the can. Then I'll have one of those -10 Y blocks, and the single pcv line will go in the single side of the Y, and the top outlet will go up to the can, the bottom outlet will go down toward the ground with a shut off valve. I'll have a vac tap on the exhaust to pull it all, but when the cars off, it'll all drain back into the Y block piece, and then fall again down the tube to the SOV. that way I can drain it whenever, and the can won't actually get filled up.

My Catch Can solution, and note the small 4mm inlet on the ebay piece of crap that I tried to use to start with...
http://forums.quattroworld.com...#7633


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

http://www.034motorsport.com/p...d=392
great part to get if youre gonna tackle this 
doin min this weekend


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Well with the motor out your fuel lines and evap lines are open to the air, silly. Any temperature changes will heat the tank and let fumes out of the lines up front.









i actually had a rubber tube conncting the two lines front but i was wondering more about fuel being pushed back out the filler neck.
i had a question for the people that have removed there overflow resevoir for the radiator. will a 10w330ohm resistor work in that plug too. 
where the best place to get a section to put in the top hose with a cap.
i have got everything shaved on that side exept the overflow rsevoir. and i scratched the fresh paint, so i was going to respray that side but i might remove those last two brackets and shave the overflow


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## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

So ive removed all of these systems aside from the EVAP. I took it for a test run and the car doesnt seem to be pulling as hard as before the delete. I have checked all connections and everything is hooked properly. Can you offer any insight?


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

bump

_Quote, originally posted by *vwgolfracer* »_
i actually had a rubber tube conncting the two lines front but i was wondering more about fuel being pushed back out the filler neck.
i had a question for the people that have removed there overflow resevoir for the radiator. will a 10w330ohm resistor work in that plug too. 
where the best place to get a section to put in the top hose with a cap.
i have got everything shaved on that side exept the overflow rsevoir. and i scratched the fresh paint, so i was going to respray that side but i might remove those last two brackets and shave the overflow


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## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

wtf is that suppose to mean


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## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (ALT3rEg0)*

So you're not running your original set up anymore?


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## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

so has anyone talked to apr about readiness removal?
if not, im gonna give em a call and see if they are willing to help, even though i know they wont..


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## Redapex (Mar 9, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *schnell_8v* »_so has anyone talked to apr about readiness removal?
if not, im gonna give em a call and see if they are willing to help, even though i know they wont..










Im not sure what Arin meant when he said this but he posted it in another SAI thread a little while ago. Call/Email them and see?

_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_If someone has something custom they want, we can do it. Just give us a call. 


Recently APRs been taking care of stuff. They even went back and rewrote some of their older tunes to support the WOTbox


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_wtf is that suppose to mean

if your asking me i was wondering if other people have had problems with gas being pushed back up the filler neck while refueling with the evap deleted.


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

anyone with info about rad. overflow delete chime in


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## ANT THE KNEE (Aug 25, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgolfracer* »_
if your asking me i was wondering if other people have had problems with gas being pushed back up the filler neck while refueling with the evap deleted.

Happened to me once..first time i got gas after i removed everything..and the car was bone dry almost. I've also got a faint fuel smell. I've read about some people looping the 2 lines together,but i haven't tried it yet.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (schnell_8v)*

Your sig is the best...!








I bet you already called APR like a little kid writing to Santa! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif And found out they CAN do it! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (vwgolfracer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vwgolfracer* »_
i actually had a rubber tube conncting the two lines front but i was wondering more about fuel being pushed back out the filler neck.
i had a question for the people that have removed there overflow resevoir for the radiator. will a 10w330ohm resistor work in that plug too. 
where the best place to get a section to put in the top hose with a cap.
i have got everything shaved on that side exept the overflow rsevoir. and i scratched the fresh paint, so i was going to respray that side but i might remove those last two brackets and shave the overflow


Didn't realize you capped them off in that way. The fuel nozzle itself is more responsible for the issue you have. I've worked at a couple full-serive stations, and all the nozzles have a backflow valve (?) so that fuel hitting the tip of the nozzle shuts it down. Filling small gas tanks, the function is even more apparent and you end up squeezing small pulses into the tank. It could be that the pressure from the hose itself once full just overcomes the sensitivity of the safety valve and it shoots out. Couldn't tell you if that effect is more pronounced with the evap delete. Anyone?








The overflow can just be deleted, and the wires twisted together if that's how you roll. Of course solder and heatshrink are only a small torch away...


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

This DIY is a BAMF! I picked up my SAI block plate and a 42DD vacuum manifold with hoses for this. I'll post the pics of the bay once I finish. I'm keeping EVAP, but everything else is going. Has anyone utilized the vac manifold to clean up the lines? Like to get some ideas how to plumb it.
-MP


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## [email protected] (Oct 16, 2006)

*Re: (nbkkb7x)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nbkkb7x* »_This DIY is a BAMF! I picked up my SAI block plate and a 42DD vacuum manifold with hoses for this. I'll post the pics of the bay once I finish. I'm keeping EVAP, but everything else is going. Has anyone utilized the vac manifold to clean up the lines? Like to get some ideas how to plumb it.
-MP

You can use the Inline Vacuum manifold spliced into the break booster, near the back of the bay. Then you can use the vacuum manifold for your DV/Boost Gauge/WM/Anything you need vacuum for without running lines all the way to your intake manifold. There should be a picture a few pages back http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: ([email protected])*

Found it! Thanks John.
-MP


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## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Just rip out the white hoses that go from the back of the car to the engine bay and you won't smell any gas.
I haven't caught one whiff since I did the delete.


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## ANT THE KNEE (Aug 25, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (IzVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IzVW* »_Just rip out the white hoses that go from the back of the car to the engine bay and you won't smell any gas.
I haven't caught one whiff since I did the delete.

I have... and i've read others also. Personally i can deal with it though


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## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

Na i was responding to weenerdog guy lol


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## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (ANT THE KNEE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ANT THE KNEE* »_
I have... and i've read others also. Personally i can deal with it though









Interesting. I guess the smell is coming from the back of the car. Just drive faster, it won't be able to keep up.


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## ALT3rEg0 (Oct 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (IzVW)*

The coolant bottle sensor works in the same manner the washer fluid bottle sensor works. Twist the wire ends together, soldered em, whatever. Completing the connection will keep the light off.


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## J.Michael.S (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*

I GUESS I SHOULD CHIME IN. I am the one Sav. did the KO3 Stage 2 file update flash for. All systems unplugged de-resistored (never actually used them) no CEL. 2 or 3 days after the flash I took the car to the local Emission Testing Facility. PASS PASS PASS http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif . As I sat and chuckled to myself. HA. The EPA **** **! Still CEL free. 
As for the EVAP. Pull the lines front to back. Cap them and call it a day!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## itsnotturbolagits4play (Apr 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (J.Michael.S)*

ok so i have a ? o deleted the sai, evap, and pvc. but i have a T.I.P and i wanted to know what you guys did with the hole right next to the DV for the PVc. did you just plug it with something and also what did you do with the vac for the brake booster. only reason i ask is because it is for the brakes. so idk if it needs more vac pressure than the other systems thanks for the help.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## J.Michael.S (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (itsnotturbolagits4play)*

You are going to use that for your vac. (catch can) be creative with fittings/adaptors. As for the brake booster just tie it back to the intake manifold where it was orginally. Make sure you use a QUALITY hose or it will collapse under vac. as you could incounter vac. problems!


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (J.Michael.S)*

The right way to do it would have been to use a elbow on the valve cover-to-CC connection, but you get the idea...besides, I'll have an elbow on my AGN


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (ALT3rEg0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ALT3rEg0* »_The coolant bottle sensor works in the same manner the washer fluid bottle sensor works. Twist the wire ends together, soldered em, whatever. Completing the connection will keep the light off.

thanks.


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

heres a diagram of the coolant lines. i am trying to figure out how to route the two lines that come of the overflow tank. anyone know what to do with these lines.








the larger one goes to the y that runs to the turbo and the other runs to the upper radiator hose.
i am thinking that the y for the coolant feed of the turbo can just be taken out, run a line straight to the turbo.
, and then the other line can be run from the radiator cap section placed in the upper hose down to the existing opening in the hose.
the section i bought from summit has a small nipple next to the cap for everflow so i think we can just connect that line into the other part of the hose.
does this sound right.


_Modified by vwgolfracer at 1:22 PM 4-9-2009_


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

The upper hose (9) is under pressure, so the small line will also be under pressure. Removing the overflow will limit you to using the radiator itself as an expansion tank for excess coolant, until the small port of the radiator cap section bleeds it all out. This is why a catch tank with that small port going down to the bottom of it makes sense. American and oriental cars had this setup for years. It allows for the cooling liquids to draw the excess back into the cooling system from the catch tank, keeping it full all the time. It can be hidden in a fender if you like. Or, relocate the stock or other cooling bottle for full recirculation. 
Having no catch or bottle will run you a bit hotter. Block both ports in that case.


_Modified by zeusenergy at 5:37 AM 4-9-2009_


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## itsnotturbolagits4play (Apr 3, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (J.Michael.S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *J.Michael.S* »_You are going to use that for your vac. (catch can) be creative with fittings/adaptors. As for the brake booster just tie it back to the intake manifold where it was orginally. Make sure you use a QUALITY hose or it will collapse under vac. as you could incounter vac. problems! 

thanks


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_The upper hose (9) is under pressure, so the small line will also be under pressure. Removing the overflow will limit you to using the radiator itself as an expansion tank for excess coolant, until the small port of the radiator cap section bleeds it all out. This is why a catch tank with that small port going down to the bottom of it makes sense. American and oriental cars had this setup for years. It allows for the cooling liquids to draw the excess back into the cooling system from the catch tank, keeping it full all the time. It can be hidden in a fender if you like. Or, relocate the stock or other cooling bottle for full recirculation. 
Having no catch or bottle will run you a bit hotter. Block both ports in that case.

_Modified by zeusenergy at 5:37 AM 4-9-2009_

i have a small one from a honda that i am going to use i think i will hide it somewhere. then the smaller y port on the main raidiator hose will be capped off. this seems like a good setup.


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## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

What are you guys doing when you remove your n249? I just wanted to remove that and nothing else. Should I just block off the hoses that I cut or what?


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## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (RvGrnGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RvGrnGTI* »_What are you guys doing when you remove your n249? I just wanted to remove that and nothing else. Should I just block off the hoses that I cut or what?

bump


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (RvGrnGTI)*

i am pretty sure you have to do the sai along with it. just do it all.


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (RvGrnGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RvGrnGTI* »_What are you guys doing when you remove your n249? I just wanted to remove that and nothing else. Should I just block off the hoses that I cut or what?

Just remove the vac line to the DV and cap it. Tee into another line and you are done.


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## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

talked to [email protected] and gave me some basic news.....sounds kinda like bs but who knows....
They can do it, but they said nothing will set and even if they could do it, they would be charged 500k(if EPA found out)
I have to send ecu back to APR....they should be able to set it in the tune, not hard chip on the ecu....any insight? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
i dont see why they cant do it easily, but what confused me was that they can do it, but he said readiness wont set...what does unitronic do? i thought it removed readiness altogether


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (schnell_8v)*

Readiness doesn't set until you drive it for some miles (I heard 80 should do.) But you will need shut downs, stop and go, and highway miles.
I think APR is hesitant to do it to many users cars. There are liabilities. Unitronic DOES reside in Canada, so who knows... Either way you really aren't killing mother nature. The difference at the tailpipe without ALL the emissions controls still isn't even HALF of what a modern carbureted musclecar restoration would put out, and they don't care about emissions for those cars, do they?








EDIT: Isn't that what we are running, anyway? Musclecars? Even original musclecars from the late 60's and early 70's only put out around 400 HP for a fast one, and those cars weighed much more than ours do. A chipped 1.8T can beat 1980's Ferrari 308/Porsche 911/etc...


_Modified by zeusenergy at 4:55 AM 4-10-2009_


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

What matters is when the car was produced. It doesn't matter that a '69 Camaro makes a sh!tton of emissions, in 1969 they had just started using air injection pumps and had NO other real environmental tech on cars. There are also only a few musclecars on the road (relative to the number of Golfs, Jettas, and the other 5000 types of econoboxes), and in the end they cannot apply a law to anything that was made or around before the law (ex post facto = big no-no). Also, I really doubt a stock New Beetle could beat a Ferrari/Porsche/etc from the 1980s; if it can than maybe the driver spends too much time on VWVortex


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Also, I really doubt a stock New Beetle could beat a Ferrari/Porsche/etc from the 1980s; if it can than maybe the driver spends too much time on VWVortex









Remember, I said CHIPPED 1.8T. Zero-to-sixty and quarter. Non-turbo Porsche


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## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Remember, I said CHIPPED 1.8T. Zero-to-sixty and quarter. Non-turbo Porsche









lol, its true though which makes it all the more funny.
So um, APR wouldn't get fined if they labeled it "for off road use only". It's not their fault if you used it on roads.


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## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (IzVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IzVW* »_
lol, its true though which makes it all the more funny.
So um, APR wouldn't get fined if they labeled it "for off road use only". It's not their fault if you used it on roads.









Unfortunately with the EPA that has no real bearing, messing with emissions components is serious business. On a road or off a road you are still polluting the air.
Personally I don't care, its just company's cant put themselves at risk with those sized of the fines. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## IzVW (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (Malant)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Malant* »_
Unfortunately with the EPA that has no real bearing, messing with emissions components is serious business. On a road or off a road you are still polluting the air.
Personally I don't care, its just company's cant put themselves at risk with those sized of the fines. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Well, keep in mind if your car isn't plated or inspected and for track use only, the EPA rules have no bearing. You can run no muffler, have gasoline burning out the pipe with billows of black smoke, etc. Once your car is no longer "legal road use" none of those rules apply. Just the rules set forth by the track. (Like unmuffled only at certain times of the day etc.)
If a company makes products for race cars it's not on them if their customers break the law. That's like saying GM is liable when someone goes 150 mph in a 'vette.
All things considered though you are probably right and its just not worth the risk anyway due to our litigation filled society, the gov't is just as bad as the average joe on that front.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (IzVW)*

I think there is also the argument for worrying about emissions simply because they are bad. An example would be routing a catch can to the TIP instead of just venting, and getting rid of SAI/2nd o2 but not evap. I really doubt I'll see any of the possible benefits if I ditch evap on my street TT, whereas I hear a lot about bad smells, fumes, etc. That said, you can argue anything for a track car, but thats a different (and very small) section of car owners...


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## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (IzVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *IzVW* »_
Well, keep in mind if your car isn't plated or inspected and for track use only, the EPA rules have no bearing. You can run no muffler, have gasoline burning out the pipe with billows of black smoke, etc. Once your car is no longer "legal road use" none of those rules apply. Just the rules set forth by the track. (Like unmuffled only at certain times of the day etc.)
If a company makes products for race cars it's not on them if their customers break the law. That's like saying GM is liable when someone goes 150 mph in a 'vette.
All things considered though you are probably right and its just not worth the risk anyway due to our litigation filled society, the gov't is just as bad as the average joe on that front.

The only reason I brought that up was because a company called Casper Electronics manufactured a o2 sensor spacer which was labeled for Off Road Use Only, however the EPA came down on them with a sledge hammer, fined them hundreds of thousands of dollars and forced them to buy back every single unit they sold (over 40k units), for every unit they were not able to recover they were fined an additional amount. 
Laws FTW


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## gbisus13 (Aug 16, 2005)

Hey so I'm working on installing my catch can and on the valve cover is this goofy port with a large diameter and then a small tube coming off the side, It looks like its something crimped together that should twist apart or come out of the valve cover? Any input anyone?
thanks!
EDIT, okay nvm, paarently it pulls out of the valve cover with enough effort. 1/2" NPT threaded in.


_Modified by gbisus13 at 1:01 AM 4-19-2009_


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## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (gbisus13)*

so i just bypassed n249 and n112....finally no more hesitation!

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for this thread, however I did not remove the actualy solenoids, just everything associated and just left the bracket + solenoids just for the connection so i wont have to use resistors


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (schnell_8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *schnell_8v* »_so i just bypassed n249 and n112....finally no more hesitation!

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for this thread, however I did not remove the actualy solenoids, just everything associated and just left the bracket + solenoids just for the connection so i wont have to use resistors 

You can definitely get rid of all the electrical parts with Unitronic tune and deletes. I've heard even APR has the capability of removing the emissions stuff from your file too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But if it works for you, then cool. Do you still have the SAIP in place? It can't do anything anymore, so if it's there you may want to just remove it and grab a resistor anyway. The N112 was responsible for opening up the combi valve so the SAIP can blow into the head. If it's still there, it's like having a vacuum cleaner on with a seal over the outlet. The air just goes nowhere!


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## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Did this on the weekend. Car idles rock solid! Left the two solenoids plugged in to the harness, just zipped tied them out of the way. The only problem I had, was I couldn’t get the top bolt for the SAI pump bracket off. Ran a catch can and pretty much everything off the intake manifold. Looks a lot better! Only code I’m pulling is the improper flow for the SAI. Good thing I don’t mind using Vag-com on my laptop. It takes 30 seconds to clear. This DIY helped tremendously. 
-MP


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

if you remove the n249 and put a resistor on it will it throw a code


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

No it does not. At least, it doesn't trip a CEL!
There will be a code in the system for N249 malfunction, since it can no longer kill boost whenever it pleases. Buit it's a soft code and will not affect CEL or emissions tests. This is one of the couple things in the DIY that are possible to remove without any dire consequences. And the N249 bypass also makes the car more predictable with boost. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

sweet thank you with lookin at this diagram http://shaw-clan.com/turbo18hoses.jpg
i think im gonna remove the n249 all together put a resistor on it run a new vac line for the dv then remove the line for the vac res before the n112 and keep the n112 there fore the saip junk does this make since or should it work.. also what does the vac line that comes off the throttle bottle go to


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_sweet thank you with lookin at this diagram http://shaw-clan.com/turbo18hoses.jpg
i think im gonna remove the n249 all together put a resistor on it run a new vac line for the dv then remove the line for the vac res before the n112 and keep the n112 there fore the saip junk does this make since or should it work.. also what does the vac line that comes off the throttle bottle go to

Yep that's off my server, made it for reasons like this. Unfortunately I didn't add the evap lines into the diagram for simpler appearance. That's what the TB line goes to. It hits a tee fitting and goes to the N80 evap control. Your thoughts on the N249 delete are all fine. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

thank you just wanted to get everything correct before i start tearin isht out.. also i recently did a catch can and now when i go full throttle it sounds like theres a huge vac leak and my dv doesnt want to work didnt know if it would have anything to do with putting in the catch can or not ran it how every picture and diagram is on here


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Maybe you knocked the DV supply line off under the intake manifold when you did the catch can? OR maybe one of the original hoses you reused finnaly gave up and tore during the install? Also check to make sure all your connections are tight and not leaking, TIP hole where the UFO lives, etc.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

So, has anyone managed to remove the kombi w/o disconnecting the coolant line?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_So, has anyone managed to remove the kombi w/o disconnecting the coolant line?

Hmmm... I wonder if the TT and or NB have different lines and routing? Didn't look like there was interference on my car..?


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

well i need some help guys. removed the n249 today left the n112 and just use a source off the intake mani for it. DV is also coming off the intake mani for its own source but using the metal tube to run it there. checked all the hose connections on the dv and catch can again but when i go full throttle wut still sounds like there is air getting by and it wont hold any boost...
any suggestions guys


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

do a pressure test, should be able to hear where its coming from.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

also while i had the intake mani off when i put it back on i rotated the TB 90 deg if that would make a difference


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Check your gaskets for TB and mani, I bet one of them is NG.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

yea ill order some today


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

So is the improper flow code for the SAI being gone a soft code that shows up in VAG-COM's DTC's, or is it an actual light on the dash (CEL)?


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (max13b2)*

it turns on the light


----------



## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_it turns on the light

*every 4-5 key cycles. I have to turn mine off every 2 days. No biggie if you have Vag-Com.
-MP


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

I could do that, just did'nt want to defeat it every time I start the car. 4 or 5 cycles is'nt that bad I guess


----------



## f3rnace (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: (max13b2)*

i got a question for the oil catch can can the catch can vent to the atmosphere. theres no vacuum line going to it right now.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (f3rnace)*

Vent to atmos is ok, but make sure you cap the port in the TIP- don't just leave the UFO in there.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

zeus thank you for helping me for you guys getting ready to do this but want to leave your SAI and evap in here is how i did it. catch can is also in place 
there is 2 lines that come off the intake mani that form to one for the brake booster the line that runs between the intake mani runners for the brake booster is also connected to the pcv that can all be removed and just run one vac line to the brake booster. if you plan on leaving the SAI youre gonna want to leave the n112 and combi valve but you can remove the n249 throw a resistor on the wire and be good. then run a new vac lane from the intake mani to the DV and another vac line goin to the n112.. with removin the n249 you can aslo get rid of that ugly vac resivor ontop of your coil pack. this is where this drawing comes in handy








also 42dd makes a vacum resivor which is really great if you plan on doin this
i left the stock metal lines that run to the dv and vac res in because there are the other 2 lines connected too them but you can use the one going to the DV and where it comes up by your intake mani just run it to a strait source you now have free
hopes this helps


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Here is another diagram I put together for the 1.8T club:


----------



## garagebornvws (Jan 13, 2008)

great discussion and write up. but any love for AEB?


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *garagebornvws* »_great discussion and write up. but any love for AEB?


Most of the discussed items weren't used on the AEBs.


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
You can definitely get rid of all the electrical parts with Unitronic tune and deletes. I've heard even APR has the capability of removing the emissions stuff from your file too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif But if it works for you, then cool. Do you still have the SAIP in place? It can't do anything anymore, so if it's there you may want to just remove it and grab a resistor anyway. The N112 was responsible for opening up the combi valve so the SAIP can blow into the head. If it's still there, it's like having a vacuum cleaner on with a seal over the outlet. The air just goes nowhere!

yea I am APR right now and finally got the go for getting the readiness removed. So i will be sending out soon to get it done. Other than that, I am justing waiting on picking up the block off for the combi then I will be deleting everything else cause I cant stand the stock engine bay...


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (schnell_8v)*


_Quote, originally posted by *schnell_8v* »_
yea I am APR right now and finally got the go for getting the readiness removed. So i will be sending out soon to get it done. Other than that, I am justing waiting on picking up the block off for the combi then I will be deleting everything else cause I cant stand the stock engine bay...









It's not just the bay being cramped for me. I'd rather not have to replace $100 hoses every 10k miles, $250 pump here and there, and $50-70 solenoids. Not to mention diagnosing issues with boost loss or vac loss are MUCH easier without these extra lines and valves! http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Is that elbow you use for the catch can the one onder the manifold?


----------



## justn868 (Jan 20, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I followed this DIY every step of the way while deleting my bay
thanks alot


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
It's not just the bay being cramped for me. I'd rather not have to replace $100 hoses every 10k miles, $250 pump here and there, and $50-70 solenoids. Not to mention diagnosing issues with boost loss or vac loss are MUCH easier without these extra lines and valves! http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

good point, that is also a reason why im doing this....im chasing a small vac leak I cannot seem to find, all thats left is PCV and hopefully that will be the source

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

found my leak hose clamp comin off the turbo completely snapped and the hose popped off yes it was one of the tblot band clamp


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_found my leak hose clamp comin off the turbo completely snapped and the hose popped off yes it was one of the tblot band clamp

Good catch. Glad you figured it out


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

yea after workin my way back from the intake mani n pulllin the bumper off i was like god damnit


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Ell-O-F'n-Ell !!!!!!!!


----------



## Mr.Tan (Jun 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

so do i need to keep the pressure control valve that goes on to the TIP?...im about to put in a catch can but i want to know if i need this or not (it would really un clutter things without it)...like do i need to run anything to the inlet at all from the catch can?


----------



## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *justn868* »_I followed this DIY every step of the way while deleting my bay
thanks alot









Where did you put the engine if you deleted the bay?


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boostin20v* »_
Where did you put the engine if you deleted the bay?



in the trunk theres just the firewall now n then the window


----------



## brus6286 (Jun 27, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boostin20v* »_
Where did you put the engine if you deleted the bay?




_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_
in the trunk theres just the firewall now n then the window




LOL


----------



## Nitestalkerz (Dec 8, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

What no Cel 's going off? Is there a power increase? If not why bother







Take it from me U may think u are doing awseome stuff, butjust because theres no cel light , doesnt mean there not 50000 Vag codes. also with the New emmision laews coming out in the next 5-10 years, Id advise NOT doing this mod, unless u want to be cool in your driveway, cuz they rejected your emmisions. gl save everything http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Nitestalkerz)*

No one's forcing you to remove anything.


----------



## J.Michael.S (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Savvv)*

Thats 5-10years from now making 1.8T's 10-20 years old. We will be grandfathered into the new emission laws!!


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (J.Michael.S)*

We sure will be. Either that, or buy a pre-OBD car and transplant in the 1.8T if you wanted. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## HoldenKauffeild (May 23, 2008)

*Re: (QU1KGTI)*

Great write up. I am going to attempt this but can you give me a quick run down of supplies.. Also what about the vac line on top of the bov/DV does the position of it change after ripping all that junk out and is it nessesary to take the intake manifold off?


----------



## goodridge (Nov 10, 2004)

Guys. I have to tell you something about removing this stuff! I did it as part of a 20VT conversion into my MK2. However, buy leaving the evap and SAI open circuit caused my ECU to run in open loop all the time. As soon as I fitted resistors in their place I got closed loop. This caused me no end of head scratching so make sure you do the same! Hope this helps someone. Caused me loads of grief.
John


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (goodridge)*

Resistors or tuned files with deletes are prerequisites. Or, you could just run standalone for a swapped car.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

ok so say i do this, yes i know i will have cel's and i don't know when or how to get the software to remove them (other than to constantly clear the codes myself) but will the car pass emissions with this mod? I live in delaware and all we do is plug into OBII and they say yes you passed or no you didn't. If i do this what exactly would i need to do to make sure i pass emissions?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991MK2* »_ok so say i do this, yes i know i will have cel's and i don't know when or how to get the software to remove them (other than to constantly clear the codes myself) but will the car pass emissions with this mod? I live in delaware and all we do is plug into OBII and they say yes you passed or no you didn't. If i do this what exactly would i need to do to make sure i pass emissions?

If you need to pass OBD-II scan, then do not do the SAI removal or EVAP removal. You could remove the SAI and put it back in when it's time to re-inspect every year or whatever. It's an option! But the Evap- you can remove the additional feed line going from the TIP and delete the tee fitting associated with it.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

so EVAP and SAI improper flow cel's (i would put the resistors in) will cause you to fail inspection then? if you clear those cel's with an obdII scanner and then go through inspection do you think that would work? just looking for something to do to the car that's not going to really cost anything seeings how i'm trying to save up for a dubtechnik rear bumper, and i need a new muffler because the brospeed muffler thats on the car SUCKS! and i need something that sounds better.
also if its not worth the hassle of dealing with emissions, can i at least do the pcv? i'm not too interested in doing the evap, more or less the n249, sai and the pcv


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991MK2* »_
also if its not worth the hassle of dealing with emissions, can i at least do the pcv? i'm not too interested in doing the evap, more or less the n249, sai and the pcv

You can do the PCV and N249 with resistor and pass. You COULD pass after clearing the improper flow on SAI but readiness requires restarts, around 50+ miles of driving including stop and go and highway. The CEL will come back and you can't guarantee it will or won't show up just before inspection. 
The best advice if you really want to delete SAI on the cheap and still pass is to have a capped off vac port that you can access, leave the SAI valve itself on the head and plug the lines, and hide the connectors for SAI pump and N112, of course with resistors attached in a way that makes them removable. 
When it comes time to inspect just zip tie the pump and N112 in the engine bay a couple days before and clear the codes.
EDIT: I ownz page 21.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Is the big TB nipple for Evap easy to remove? I'd played with it a few times but I don't want to break my TB...
Also, I wanted to post up my Official catch can FAQ/DIY considering how many people do this during engine cleaning.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Is the big TB nipple for Evap easy to remove? I'd played with it a few times but I don't want to break my TB...
Also, I wanted to post up my Official catch can FAQ/DIY considering how many people do this during engine cleaning. 

To be honest I have no clue how easy it would be to remove that nipple. In my case I may keep that piece, as the pipe that goes around the back of the valve cover is the one I will delete.
PS love the thread you linked to. Nice diagram, too! It should help people understand the workings of a catch. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

Use some heat, you can wiggle it out. Then when it's out either tap it for 1/8" NPT and put in a flush plug or have someone add some weld to it, tho that's risky since the components in the controller may not like the heat. Rogue Status plugged his.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_Use some heat, you can wiggle it out. Then when it's out either tap it for 1/8" NPT and put in a flush plug or have someone add some weld to it, tho that's risky since the components in the controller may not like the heat. Rogue Status plugged his.

It's just press fit? Under boost you would think it might pop out with age.








Thanks for the info, Sav. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Yes press fit. They probably use some sort of adhesive when pressing it in though, plus they more than likely use some temperature change when putting it in initially, which is why it wouldn't just pop out from boost.


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Savvv)*

OK, I removed everything except the SAI system which will come out this weekend. I used 330ohm resistors on the other three harnesses. Using Vag-Com though I still get "open circuit" codes, but the light on the dash does not pop on til about 20 miles of driving when I get the "EVAP improper flow" code (which I understand). Now I have checked everything twice w/ a ohm meter and everything checks out fine. My question is IS THIS NORMAL to throw these "open circuit" codes???








BTW- I still have adaption cause my fuel trims are back to -2.3 and -1.6 after about 40 miles which makes me think things are fine, but noone ever mentioned open circuit soft codes before


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (max13b2)*

Check your fuses on the driver side of the dash. The red ones. If they are blown, that could be it. If not, post up your codes.


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Savvv)*

Pretty sure its not the fuses, cause if I physically plug the N112 and N249 back in (although just hanging there), and clear the codes, the stay off, but if I unplug them w/ resistors I get the codes immediatly, and the EVAP improper flow code after a few miles
logs as of now are:

Tuesday, 12 May 2009, 18:43:03
5 Faults Found:
17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit
P1432 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-00 - -
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-00 - -
7695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit
P1287 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The DV code has been there since the diode mod (I run 19-20psi now, but have been for months) and of course the improper flow for the EVAP but I have resistors in the other three harnesses and I have checked them w/ a meter









_Modified by max13b2 at 3:52 PM 5-12-2009_


_Modified by max13b2 at 2:39 PM 5-13-2009_


----------



## dmitry88 (Apr 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Anyone w/ any thoughts?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (max13b2)*

What wattage resistors did you use?


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Or try diff resistors, got a link where you bought yours from?


----------



## bora10488 (Apr 27, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

very nice job


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Savvv)*

The yellow one in the middle is what I used and it HAS to be soldered in place. Hopefully this guy has a ten watt or higher for the SAI otherwise it's burnout city baby.


----------



## bora10488 (Apr 27, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

back to the original thread...will doing this throw any cels?


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (bora10488)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bora10488* »_back to the original thread...will doing this throw any cels?


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Well I figure it's about time someone make a DIY for this type of stuff. Only reason I decided to do it was because it was my buddy's turn to get the treatment and I told him to bust out the cam and take some mad pics. This guide will be divided into phases. Phase 1 is removing the N249 and SAI. Phase 2 will be the PCV and 3 the EVAP or vice versa, whatever I do first








*edit* Thanks to j0hnnybmx for the sweet shots and lettin me use his car as a gerbil








Let's start by making some room. Get your intake/airbox out of the way and MAF. The more room you have to work with the easier this will be. Also if your engine covers are on remove them. Here's a pic of the engine bay before we started:








Get a ratchet and a 10mm socket and remove the two nuts on top of the N249 bracket as shown below:








Next, use either an allen drive or wrench in 5.5mm and unbolt the bracket from the manifold:








Unclip the longer half of the pump to combi valve crinkle hose. You push on the rough tabs and the sides will pop off.
Now you can swing that hose over to the passenger side out of the way since you unclipped it and unbolted it from the N249 bracket. Now, get your snips out and start cutting off the vac hoses going to the N249 on the driver side:








You'll cut 3 and then the 4th goes to the manifold. Now, if you can, unclip both harnesses under the bracket. Both should be visible:








Turn the bracket over and there is another 10mm nut holding the other crinkle hose on. Once you have this off, the bracket should be free.








**If you plan to run your engine cover still...just remove all the pieces on the underside of the bracket. When you're done with the removal process, you can bolt the bracket back onto the mani and still have the mounting holes for your cover.**
Next, unbolt the vac reservoir from it's bracket and also unbolt the bracket. 10mm nut and 5.5mm allen screws.
















Now pull...also remove your DV vac line:
















This next step is optional and depends on what you wanna do. You can leave the combi valve and vac line hardlines on the car and just plug the hose with something. Here is a pic of where the vac lines go to:








But, if you wanna remove it all, you'll need some coolant. In order to get the combi valve off, you need to unbolt a hard coolant hose from the block and pull it away and down.
























There are 2 nuts holding on that coolant line. You WILL lose coolant which is why you'll want to have some when you're done to refill the system.
Now, there is a vac line that runs into those hardlines and also goes down to the bottom of your turbo inlet hose/pipe. Cut that line off.








The combi valve bolts to the hardlines via a bracket with a 10mm bolt. Also, the biggest bitch are two plastic clips that hold the coilpack harnesses onto it. Get em out whatever way necessary. After all this and getting the bolts out of the block, you'll have this:








Now pull those hardlines out.
















Best bet now is to get a SAI Blockoff Plate from Integrated Engineering. Bolt it on, and then bolt the coolant hard hose back to the block making sure it's tight and flush.








Now for one of the harder parts. Best bet will be to have an 8mm allen drive and a universal joint on a 3/8" ratchet. Use a 10mm socket and unbolt the pump from the bracket from under the car. If you're lucky, you'll be able to pull the pump out of the bracket as is. But if not, you have to unbolt the bracket from the block using the 8mm allen drives. Here's what the bracket looks like and the placement of the bolts.
















Once you have this off, if you got a resistor (10W 330ohm), just slice the covering off both these wires for the pump harness and connect the resistor to the wires whichever way you see fit. The resistor is not directional either. This will keep you from having a "pump missing" CEL, however you will still probably get the improper flow one.








And here is what the engine bay looks like after.








Now all that's left to do is route 2 new vac lines. That one you cut that goes to the bottom of your TIP, take it off and run a new line all the way up to right by the intake manifold. You woulda cut the line going across the intake mani to pull those hardlines off. It will connect to a silver hardline that runs across the intake manifold. Run another line from the DV to that open port on the bottom of the intake manifold. Remember the 4th line you cut from the N249? Connect it to that port. Then, you're done. You can bolt that bracket back up to run the engine cover if you so please.
---------------------------------------
*EVAP REMOVAL*
Sorry I do not have AS MANY pics of this removal as Johnny pulled it all himself but I'll be as detailed as I can. It's very very easy to remove compared to taking off the SAI and N249 stuff.
First...look at your throttle body. It has a vac line on top. Pull that off. You can either put a rubber cap over it or you can use it as a vac/boost source (say for a DV) if you ever need one. Follow the lines down and you'll notice you have a hose connected to one of two hardlines that run across the intake manifold. I talked about this at the end of the SAI/N249 removal. On the driver side, you connected a vac line from the bottom of your turbo inlet hose to this hardline. Now you see, it runs across and connects to the EVAP system. What you can now do is just remove that line from your TIP and put a cap over the port down by the turbo. The remaining hardline on the manifold can't come off. Why? It's welded to another hardline for coolant...so you can either edit that however you want or be creative with anything else you have that uses vac and connect hoses to it.
So you pulled the vac lines off the throttle body and the hardline across the intake manifold. Now follow em over behind the power steering reservoir and unplug the harness. Slip the rubber piece off the bracket that is bolted to the fender. The lines go around the back of the coolant reservoir and drop down into a plastic canister. You can just unplug them. They use a special quick disconnect. Push a lil button and they pop off. Don't undo the fuel lines tho.
Now the only thing left that's holding all that stuff on is the blue balls under the passenger fender. Raise the car, remove fender liner...and there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold the blue balls up there. Get em off and the line comes off with it. You should be left with this:
















Now all that is left are those white lines that are sticking out the top of the container in the back of the engine bay. Get under the passenger side of the car and start unclipping them from the underbody. The white ones ONLY. The black/blue are fuel. Go all the way back to near the fuel filter by the rear wheel. Just disconnect the fittings, and then pull the white lines from the front of the car down and out. You may have to pop the black cover off the top of the canister to properly get those lines out. It's kinda hard to pop off without breaking it but...w/e. And that's it. EVAP is gone. Put a 330ohm resistor on the harness and you shouldn't throw a code. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
---------------------------------------
*PCV EDIT*
The stock PCV system is used to remove pressure from the motor when you're driving it hard. It does this with a variety of vac sources all around the engine bay. If you edit all this out, and make one strong vac connection, that's all you need. All those other ones are safegaurds incase of failure, IMHO. The PCV system also allows oil and condensation into your charge pipes. So the main point of this edit is adding a catch can to trap this oil and condensation, while still allowing for pressure release.
Best possible way to get all this done is to remove the intake manifold. EVERYTHING is under there for the most part, so just have at it. Here's a pic of all the pieces (some may be missing) that I pulled out:








The brake booster line that comes over by the driver side and attaches to the big port on the mani can be edited since you no longer need that Y rubber hose on it. Just get some fuel line hose to slip over it and reattach to the mani.
Now, everything is out of the way, so start using OEM + Home Depot. I used the plastic elbow out of the filter housing, than a brass reducer, to some hose, then a plastic T from the HELP! section at an auto parts store.








For the valve cover, I happened to have a piece of preformed coolant hose that was bent and had a long straight section. I put a brass reducer in there, and tied it into the T you see above.








The outlet of the T runs around under some stuff to keep it looking clean, and up into the catch can. The outlet of the catch can then gets run to the inlet pipe (or hose if you've got one) for the constant vac source.








As you can see, I caught alot of moisture/condensation, and a small amount of oil within a few weeks of driving. Below is a simple MS Paint sketch of the setup. This is to just give you the general idea of how to run your lines. In no way am I saying to use the EXACT pieces I did, b/c you may find something that works better or looks nicer.








Now that you're done, you have two extra vac/boost ports on your intake mani. You can either utilize these for anything you may have, or just cap them off.
*Edit:*
Some other notes for you guys looking to do this. You can put resistors in both n249 harnesses you unplugged to keep the CEL from popping up. Also, there are a few benefits to removing all this stuff. First off, it makes room in the engine bay so when you're working on more important things, you have less hoses and sensors and such in the way. Another nice thing is you learn more about what goes where and how this and that works. Total system weight of the SAI is about 7lbs. If you live somewhere that doesn't have echeck, there is no need for the SAI. All it does is heat up the cat during cold start. The N249 uses a vac boosting solenoid or w/e to help activate some of your parts that use vac such as your DV. Well if the solenoid fails, you're gonna have vac issues. By connecting a vac line directly to the manifold from the DV, you'll have true vac and quicker response.
Editing the PCV just makes some more room and simplifies what the system actually does. The EVAP is also for emissions, and removing it gives ya another vac source on your manifold.
*CONCLUSION:*
Now that this DIY is complete, I'll show you a pic of Jen's engine bay.








To some this may look like an even bigger cluster, but I know where every line goes and why it's there. I have my boost gauge, boost controller, water/meth, DV, and FPR all ported to the intake manifold. There are no spare sources laying around. I'm catching all the condensation/oil in a can instead of putting it through the turbo and IC pipes.* The small price to pay is 2 CELs for an EVAP improper flow and SAI improper flow.*



Very last sentence in the very first post.


----------



## hammerxofxthor (Aug 31, 2008)

anyone know if i would pass smog after all this?


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (hammerxofxthor)*

so if i do this and don't do the evap, what do i do with the line that goes to the blue balls that comes off of the n249, find a new vacuum source for it?


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*



zeusenergy said:


> The yellow one in the middle is what I used and *it HAS to be soldered in place*.
> OK, I figured it out, and it was my crappy "quick disconnect" method tring to be able to return to stock easily. The small gauge wire on each on the harnesses only made contact if jiggled but as soon as you push/pull/move the harness the ohm meter would zero out. Shake it around and boom, a good connection. Anyway long story short, took the time to solder and voila!
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *max13b2* »_
BTW- I love how people on this thread ask the same three questions w/o READING THE ENTIRE THREAD!!!







If u removed all the rhetorical posts, I'm sure 10+ pages could be edited out!


lets get it started then shorten this thing up ive read it at least 20 times over


----------



## hammerxofxthor (Aug 31, 2008)

*Re: (max13b2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *max13b2* »_


zeusenergy said:


> BTW- I love how people on this thread ask the same three questions w/o READING THE ENTIRE THREAD!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...






zeusenergy said:


> lol can u blame us? 21 pages!?


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (hammerxofxthor)*

ok so does unitronic or anyone else have a program that will get rid of the improper flow for the sai and the evap? If no one does then i can't do either unless i reinstall them before emissions which would be a pain
Edit: finally found on like page 17 or so that unitronic can reflash these codes off of the car even with a stock ko3? I just really need to make sure because i want to do this and i can deal with 2 cel's as long as i know that when i chip the car they will be taken care of.


_Modified by 1991MK2 at 10:05 PM 5-14-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991MK2* »_ok so does unitronic or anyone else have a program that will get rid of the improper flow for the sai and the evap? If no one does then i can't do either unless i reinstall them before emissions which would be a pain
Edit: finally found on like page 17 or so that unitronic can reflash these codes off of the car even with a stock ko3? I just really need to make sure because i want to do this and i can deal with 2 cel's as long as i know that when i chip the car they will be taken care of.

_Modified by 1991MK2 at 10:05 PM 5-14-2009_

Yes, yes, and YES. I spoke with Uni directly and a few guys are already running around with K03 emissions delete files. Read this thread over and you will find the post with the info you need, or call Uni and talk to them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (hammerxofxthor)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hammerxofxthor* »_anyone know if i would pass smog after all this?

Dude. Really.








Visual you will NOT pass. If you only have OBD-II scan then you can replace the stuff beforehand temporarily for the test, or get your shizzle reflashed by Unitronics or APR deleted files.
EDIT: Apparently no one reads the thread's info and posts before blindly asking this stuff.....










_Modified by zeusenergy at 5:07 AM 5-15-2009_


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Thank you, i know its a pain having to answer the same questions over and over, i had read most of the pages and had only come up with the fact that they could delete them on the big turbo chips and then i finally found it. It would be great if this thread was shortened to like chip info, resistors(even though its right on the first page), the fact that this is mainly to clean up the engine bay and such and pictures of other peoples cars after or during the process. Again thanks for your guys input and dealing with the repetitive questions.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*

oh i've got an unrelated question what tip is on jens car?


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (1991MK2)*

In the first post? That was a pag inlet pipe. Before that, a samco hose was used for the stock turbo.


----------



## mumbly0051 (Nov 5, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Great mod, did it yesterday cause weather was beautiful.
Only thing now, gotta order some resistors for the harness'es


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (mumbly0051)*

just ordered my sai blockoff plate, hopefully will be doing this by the weekend.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (1991MK2)*

Cool man. I also need to order the blockoff. Even if I don't do the delete file yet, I can reinstall the system temporarily to pass if need be. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

i don't need to go through inspection for another 2 years lol so i can wait on the delete files and just deal with the cel's. I don't even think i'm going to worry about the resistors, just going to cut off the plugs and tape them up seeings how the chip takes care of that.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (1991MK2)*

You'll want the resistors just for adaptation's sake. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

Screw that, just leave the solenoids plugged in and bunched up under your intake manifold. I used the resistor method and would have skipped that had I known about just leaving them plugged in


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (l88m22vette)*

On the NB that's not possible since the harnesses go above the VC where it all mounts on the same bracket as the vac reservoir. I used to keep he N112 plugged in but physically not plumbed into the SAI to see if an incorrect flow code would come up, and it did. Besides- resistors are cheap and can be set up removable until the guy gets his flash. Then he can just snip the plugs right off.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I just spoke with Al at Pag and they are going to set me up with a Eurodyne ko3s delete file.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (zeusenergy)*

true true true, forgot about that, yeah i'll definitely need the resistors until i get reflashed, lol that would have been bad. that was a really bad brain fart lol


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_I just spoke with Al at Pag and they are going to set me up with a Eurodyne ko3s delete file.









How much $?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Speaking of cleaning up the bay....
Today I did a bunch of stuff. Took out the vac booster pump for the brakes along with all the hard lines that reach over the drivers side of the valve cover. Also finally took off the hard pipe at the back of the head that goes from the Evap down to the TIP where it meets the turbo. The lines were consolidated and a new fitting was freed up for the brake booster from the original PCV nipple, and plugged up the manifold attachment at the PCV. Removed the SAIP hoses and the SAIP (but had to replace the pump since it acts as a bracket for a couple things. I'll have to cut the bracket and get a resistor to finish that part.)
Now the SAIP is LOUUUUDDDD!







It has no hoses so it's just freewheeling on cold starts. The N112 hose is disconnected again and need a resistor for that too. Also cleaned up my vacuum sources and consolidated those, ran the FPR line down under the manifold and attached it to the hose going to my gauge and DV that live under the airbox. Also unplugged all the fuel rail items: TB, cam position, IAT, knock, all four injectors.... and removed the plastic junk that was holding it all in. Then I pulled the fuel rail and routed the harness under it so it's not so "in yer face."







The upper TIP connection for the vac booster pump is also gone along with its check valve. I reused one of the check valves and a hose from the evap to remake the brake booster line. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_
How much $?
 I have been in contact with both Eurodyne and Unitronic this week and they both charge $700 for the ko3s stage 2 flash with the sai/evap/pcv delete.. So its just a matter of wich tuner you prefer. I think its $200 extra well spent. Especially when you consider the all of the many advantages of doing the delete. Cleaner bay, easier to work on, less chance of boost and vacum leaks, easier to diagnose boost and vacum leaks, faster dv response. The list of advantages could take up a thread itself... OH WAIT.... IT DID!!


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_ I have been in contact with both Eurodyne and Unitronic this week and they both charge $700 for the ko3s stage 2 flash with the sai/evap/pcv delete.. So its just a matter of wich tuner you prefer. I think its $200 extra well spent. Especially when you consider the all of the many advantages of doing the delete. Cleaner bay, easier to work on, less chance of boost and vacum leaks, easier to diagnose boost and vacum leaks, faster dv response. The list of advantages could take up a thread itself... OH WAIT.... IT DID!!









ha ha..
Well done. This is one of my favorite threads.


_Modified by Andaloons at 1:11 AM 5-21-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Wait- the price went up to $200 for deletes with Uni? Two months ago it was $100 extra over the tune??


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I guess so. I am keeping my build on a budget. But this flash seems like money well spent for all of the benefits of the delete. I just hate all the extra junk under the hood. It just makes diagnosing leaks and issues so much harder. On a high mileage car like mine (where litteraly every hose is dryrotted and most all sensors need to be replaced) I think that the delete will actually save me some dough in th long run


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_I guess so. I am keeping my build on a budget. But this flash seems like money well spent for all of the benefits of the delete. I just hate all the extra junk under the hood. It just makes diagnosing leaks and issues so much harder. On a high mileage car like mine (where litteraly every hose is dryrotted and most all sensors need to be replaced) I think that the delete will actually save me some dough in th long run









It's still $100 for deletes.... you are going for stage 2! So that means $600 total for me. $700 4u.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Zeus.. Do you have this software allready??


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_Zeus.. Do you have this software allready??

Nope, and I'm going for Uni not eurodyne. That's where the prices I listed came from. Stage 1 plus deletes from Uni should still be $600. From there you could go as high as you want boost wise, and everything will be kosher- so no need for an extra $100 just to get a couple more PSI when you have a dual stage MBC setup like me.
EDIT: I have to get inspected in June so I'll probably be doing the Uni file very soon.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

From everything I've researched you can only get readiness delete with the Stg2 program (for Uni anyway), and I was quoted $150 for the readiness ON TOP OF the $650 for the program from a local Uni rep...what a rip! $800 is BT program money...I don't see why Uni can't just offer readiness deletes by themselves, its a matter of a few settings and 10 minutes of effort; I'm not worried about 23psi, I just want to pass emissions so I can get that cute little sticker that says my car is legal to drive


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_From everything I've researched you can only get readiness delete with the Stg2 program (for Uni anyway), and I was quoted $150 for the readiness ON TOP OF the $650 for the program from a local Uni rep...what a rip! $800 is BT program money...I don't see why Uni can't just offer readiness deletes by themselves, its a matter of a few settings and 10 minutes of effort; I'm not worried about 23psi, I just want to pass emissions so I can get that cute little sticker that says my car is legal to drive









That's high, way high. But you are correct in saying the emissions delete is only available on Stg2 files. I'm sure you're aware Stg2 is $600, so Stg2 w/ emissions delete adds $50 to that, so really you should only be paying $650 for the software, plus install if a dealer is charging you that. So for anyone upgrading from 1, 1+, or 2, just subtract from $650.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Savvv)*

Sorry, I was off by $50, software is $600 but I was told by the rep that the readiness adds $150 on top of that. Regardless of how you slice it thats a chunk o' change


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Savvv)*

What?? I talked directly to someone from Uni directly and they said a stage 1 plus deletes is definitely possible for $600.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I'm getting ready to send my damm ECU to reflected for deletes.


----------



## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_I'm getting ready to send my damm ECU to reflected for deletes.









x2!


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Sorry, I was off by $50, software is $600 but I was told by the rep that the readiness adds $150 on top of that. Regardless of how you slice it thats a chunk o' change








 I agree that it isn't cheap. But to me the delete file is more important than anything else I plan on doing at the moment. When you consider the fact that my Jetta has almost 200,000 miles and every hose and sensor under the hood is shot not to mention other things that need to be addressed. The delete file will probably save me some money in the long run because its a lot less stuff to replace. And then of course there's the main reason I'm doing this. To make it a lot easier to work on because its obvious that I'm going to be spending a lot of time in there. An extra 200 hundred bucks is a small price to pay for a lot less aggrevation


----------



## Murphyman20thGTI (Oct 5, 2008)

*Re: (core5)*

so did you ever end up putting back in your SAI? I had bought mine with mods done and all this deleted, It was a NJ car so take it they dont have emissions! But in MA we do so im kind of in a sucky situation! I Have bought SAI set up off of some one but i need to install it myself which will be fun since i didnt remove it and wont know how to easly!


core5 said:


> I'm going to be putting all that stuff back in soon. If you don't have emission checking you're fine, but I do and there's no software solution available to the 1.8T to fix the "improper flow" code. The only trick I can imagine as a fix would be to wire the SAI pump harness back around to of the oxygen sensors along with some discreet components to regulate the voltage and current going to them.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Murphyman20thGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Murphyman20thGTI* »_so did you ever end up putting back in your SAI? I had bought mine with mods done and all this deleted, It was a NJ car so take it they dont have emissions! But in MA we do so im kind of in a sucky situation! I Have bought SAI set up off of some one but i need to install it myself which will be fun since i didnt remove it and wont know how to easly!


core5 said:


> I'm going to be putting all that stuff back in soon. If you don't have emission checking you're fine, but I do and there's no software solution available to the 1.8T to fix the "improper flow" code. The only trick I can imagine as a fix would be to wire the SAI pump harness back around to of the oxygen sensors along with some discreet components to regulate the voltage and current going to them.






core5 said:


> talk to reflected- he does just deletes for $50.
> WAIT! talk to revo as you have their file!!!
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
talk to reflected- he does just deletes for $50.

When did he start doing that? I thought there wasn't anyway to get just deletes?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

For a while. PM him and you'll see.


----------



## nbkkb7x (Jan 12, 2009)

*Re: (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_When did he start doing that? I thought there wasn't anyway to get just deletes?

There's also a DIY (sort of) laying around, but I don't know winsol or have any flashing knowledge. If you've got the time and patience to do it yourself: http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
-MP


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (nbkkb7x)*

hey guys just did this today since i can't drive my car untill tuesday when i go to get the new clutch put in it. just need to get resistors since radio shack only has 1/4 watt 330 ohms...gay


_Modified by 1991MK2 at 7:26 PM 5-23-2009_


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

ok got some questions here first off uni can take care of the codes for the sai and the evep junk and maf correct 
now after all that and say you wanted to just run a filter on the turbo what would control the wastegate would you have to run a mbc or no.. and would uni beable to take care of the code for the n75 being gone


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991MK2* »_hey guys just did this today since i can't drive my car untill tuesday when i go to get the new clutch put in it. just need to get resistors since radio shack only has 1/4 watt 330 ohms...gay

_Modified by 1991MK2 at 7:26 PM 5-23-2009_

Yeah don't run it without resistors. It'll be in open loop and run like ****. Radio shack is supposed to have 10 Watt 100 Ohm ones, you can put three together in series...








300 ohm-350 Ohm should be fine if you can't get the 330's. Make sure they are 10 watt though.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_ok got some questions here first off uni can take care of the codes for the sai and the evep junk and maf correct 
now after all that and say you wanted to just run a filter on the turbo what would control the wastegate would you have to run a mbc or no.. and would uni beable to take care of the code for the n75 being gone



Here we go....
Uni will be fine for deleting the N249, N112 that controls the SAI valve, the SAI Pump, and N80 Evap valve as well. Uni CAN NOT delete the MAF for K03 applications, and they might not do N75 deletes either. You'll have to call on the N75 to see if they can delete it. But there is no good reason to do that..... even though the N75 is a pain in the butt and doesn't always do what it is asked in stock format, once you are chipped it will work really well except for spikes. And if you don't like spikes look into the overboost prevention kit from Boostvalve.com it'll kill any spikes.








So forget running a filter on the turbo. Even if you could, the filter would be the size of a crankcase breather filter on a V8!!!!!


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

oh ok, didn't realize that you could put them together into a series, will do to hold me off until i can find the single 10 watt 330 ohm, i'll post a pic soon since i still need to degrease all of my engine bay and make everything pretty







just need to save up for a catch can so that i can do that, any suggestions on a good brand with a good price?


_Modified by 1991MK2 at 4:23 AM 5-24-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991MK2* »_ just need to save up for a catch can so that i can do that, any suggestions on a good brand with a good price?

_Modified by 1991MK2 at 4:23 AM 5-24-2009_

Funny you should ask that.....


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

im not going to be using unis ko3 file its BT time

_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Here we go....
Uni will be fine for deleting the N249, N112 that controls the SAI valve, the SAI Pump, and N80 Evap valve as well. Uni CAN NOT delete the MAF for K03 applications, and they might not do N75 deletes either. You'll have to call on the N75 to see if they can delete it. But there is no good reason to do that..... even though the N75 is a pain in the butt and doesn't always do what it is asked in stock format, once you are chipped it will work really well except for spikes. And if you don't like spikes look into the overboost prevention kit from Boostvalve.com it'll kill any spikes.








So forget running a filter on the turbo. Even if you could, the filter would be the size of a crankcase breather filter on a V8!!!!!


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_im not going to be using unis ko3 file its BT time


I think 630cc files and up are fine for MAF removal. Ask them about it. And find out if they do pull N75 function out if asked to.... I'd like to know for curiousities' sake. You can run a filter on THAT turbo! Assuming you are going for something bigger than GT28....


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

If anybody needs a resistor or four, let me know. I will have quality ones available cheap in a week. I bought a ton of them to distribute here and shipping will be at or near cost cause I like to help a dubba out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_If anybody needs a resistor or four, let me know. I will have quality ones available cheap in a week. I bought a ton of them to distribute here and shipping will be at or near cost cause I like to help a dubba out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I would like some - four.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Andaloons)*

Post in my link below and I'll hook you up this coming week. $1 or so each shipped to your door USA....








I won't really be making any $ of them, maybe $.20 each but then factor in the gas and my time








Either way it will be better than ordering four from parts express and getting charged $3-4 for shipping them.


_Modified by zeusenergy at 1:25 PM 5-24-2009_


----------



## granmas 1.8t (Mar 21, 2008)

i did this on friday, and now my turbo sounds as if its spooling , but nothing happens to the engine. i put resistors in, but still no luck, i even changed the springs in the DV. My wastegate doesn't move at all when i floor it. any suggestions? Everything is capped plugged up. I just did the SAI delete. maybe my N 249 isnt reading that resistor?


----------



## JeremiahSOW (Apr 9, 2007)

*Re: (granmas 1.8t)*

has anyone had a problem with filling up and the car running wicked rich and not idling until you rev it up and then its fine? I deleted the sai, combi and hardlines. left the evap in. I capped the line from the hard line that runs through the intake mani and only have a vacuum source for the evap off the top of the throttle body.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (JeremiahSOW)*

so whats the truth behind that the exhaust valves will burn up faster without the sai?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (1991MK2)*








Treebeard once said:
"Sounds like Orc mischief to me....."


----------



## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Got all the polished engine goodies and gaskets this week. Looks like it is time for me to get in on the bay shaving. I can't stand CELs though!


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (Island20V)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Island20V* »_I can't stand CELs though!

ive never had one, what does it look like?


----------



## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: (boosted b5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *boosted b5* »_
ive never had one, what does it look like?









Nor have I, but I am not looking foward to it.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Island20V)*

That's when your engine turns into a chevy V8, cause the indicator looks like that....








I made my own cluster face and did other stuff so mine's custom, and actually looks like a 1.8t EDIT, this one was not the one I printed... the speedo is a little different.:










_Modified by zeusenergy at 12:40 PM 5-29-2009_


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

thats a pretty sweet gauge face.. i wasnt being serious about not knowing what it looks like. but i was serious about never having my CEL come on for anything.


----------



## JeremiahSOW (Apr 9, 2007)

*Re: (JeremiahSOW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JeremiahSOW* »_has anyone had a problem with filling up and the car running wicked rich and not idling until you rev it up and then its fine? I deleted the sai, combi and hardlines. left the evap in. I capped the line from the hard line that runs through the intake mani and only have a vacuum source for the evap off the top of the throttle body.


bump


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (JeremiahSOW)*

Sometimes when I cold start it, there will be a hesitation and popping, similar to what you are tlaking about. And I deleted the SAI function twice, both times is when it happened. So now I live with it, since I'm going balls-out taking everything out. Never had the Evap totally deleted and the hesitation was always at cold start, regardless of fill-up.








Maybe we can shed some light into whatever the issue is.


----------



## JeremiahSOW (Apr 9, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Sometimes when I cold start it, there will be a hesitation and popping, similar to what you are tlaking about. And I deleted the SAI function twice, both times is when it happened. So now I live with it, since I'm going balls-out taking everything out. Never had the Evap totally deleted and the hesitation was always at cold start, regardless of fill-up.








Maybe we can shed some light into whatever the issue is.


I have a company vehicle so I hardly ever drive my car. when I do, it starts up fine but revs high like its trying to run the sai pump. then it settles down just like it did before the removal. the weird thing was when I filled my tank last weekend. it would barely idle and black smoke was coming out the exhaust. basically running wicked rich. I revved it up a few times and then it idled normal. since then, it has started up fine and idles fine. idk lol. I'll try to take pics tomorrow and post up. next time I fill my tank I'll see if it will do it again. probably wont be till next week or later. 
I agree though, lets see if we can find a solution to the problem. I'm gonna scan it this weekend too.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_











thats cool make me one??


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

I'd need a starter face to work with, the stock one. And I can't do the custom printing. The guy who made the face hasn't been around in a while and haven't been able to contact him. He used plexi (real thin) and used my design to print two laminate layers (one front, one rear) then used a translucent white backing behind it all. I'd love to get my hands on the Mk4 faces to play with designs so if you want I will design you one for free if you can send me the stock faces. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

hey with an external wastegate like clays kit you cant use the n75 valve right you have to get a mbc or ebc


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

the n75 is an ebc


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_the n75 is an ebc










yea but from what i mainl yheard is that with the kit from ctsturbo it wont really work


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Whether it works or not depends on software not hardware, a lot of daily-driver BT cars use the N75 because of part-throttle control. There is no problem using it with _any_ BT hardware


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*

I been driving around for a couple days now just MBC, and it's been okay- I'm getting more used to throttle control and that's cool. Right now I'm working on the boost system and making a nice boxed in control network with B&S overboosted N75 for one mode and second N75 controlled by knob in cabin through a PWM control board. *It will clean the bay up even more*. Last time I had this setup it was about a year ago, and it didn't take me long to rig up the first solenoid out of the deleted N249. At least then I had stock mode when I wanted. Having just an MBC at lower boost, around 10-12 PSI isn't too bad but it can still bite you when the throttle closes fast. *16 PSI sometimes hurts to drive up hills behind people.*







Imagine a BT car with an on/off switch...








I don't know if I could live without an N75 or other EBC for daily driving. As it is, not too bad right now. Once the boost control system is at version 3.0 I'll get stock and alot more anyway.


_Modified by zeusenergy at 4:02 AM 5-31-2009_


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Whether it works or not depends on software not hardware, a lot of daily-driver BT cars use the N75 because of part-throttle control. There is no problem using it with _any_ BT hardware


so like on the tial 38 mm wastegate which port do you plug the n75 valve into the top or the side


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

Resistors are now available and in hand for shipping. Go to my thread in signature for ordering. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
$1 for one, $.75 each additional.


----------



## engineerd18t (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: (1991MK2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *1991MK2* »_so whats the truth behind that the exhaust valves will burn up faster without the sai?

Where'd you hear that? 
A: I wouldn't think you would reach a high enough exhaust valve temp during the times the SAI would normally be used (when warming up) and
B: Correct me if I'm wrong, since I don't have wideband hooked up yet, but the car would normally run a little rich on cold start and the SAI would just add excess air after the post engine / precat in order to further complete combustion to heat the cats up quicker. Highest temps at idle will be at stoich.


----------



## 1991MK2 (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: (bbeach)*

ok, i thought everything was fine, i just had a vw tech try to tell me that removing the sai would eventually help to burn up the valves...needless to say i didn't listen


----------



## midwest dubin (Feb 18, 2008)

Now that I removed the top res off the valve cover my DV flutters, its a bailys why is this?


----------



## Brah (Mar 5, 2007)

*Re: (midwest dubin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *midwest dubin* »_Now that I removed the top res off the valve cover my DV flutters, its a bailys why is this?

The vacume line to the top of the DV is disconnected somewhere. Fluttering is because there is not enough vacume to hold the piston/diaphram up.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Brah)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_
so like on the tial 38 mm wastegate which port do you plug the n75 valve into the top or the side

Same place as the normal wastegate:


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_
Same place as the normal wastegate:










na i ment where it plugs into the tial wastegate cuz theres 2 ports on it


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

FWIH the bottom port gets used and the top does not, although I have no experience with externals except the stock Audi 5ktq. I imagine one side is for reference and the other to keep it boosted.
Hey, found this in a search:
"My turbonetics/home depot MBC says to:
1. use a boost-referenced port before the butterflies and T it.
2. One side goes to the bottom of the wastegate, the other to the MBC
3. the output of the MBC goes to the top of the wastegate.
it just depends on what you believe is more "safe" I guess. Bleeding off boost and venting the wastegate or using boost pressure on both sides of the spring in the wastegate."


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_








_Modified by SAVwKO at 8:10 PM 4-24-2007_

what do i do with the two wires that went to this? just unplug them and leave them or do i need to wire in resistors?


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

i finally finished removing everything and the new turbo is in car is running thank you to everyone expecially in this post for answering my questions


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

can anyone help me please..


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (tomespo)*

you can either leave it plugged into the n249 or use a 330ohm 10w resistor.
either way will allow for no CEL http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

right now i just have them plugged in, theres 2 of them though. do i get resistors for both or only 1 will throw a cel?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*

I can sell you resistors that will work, and I'm quicker and cheaper than the alternatives. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Check my sig below


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Zeus... My car is running ridiculously rich since I did the deletes. Is this because I'm running in open loop?? My Maf,front and rear o2 sensors, coolant sensor(green top), and crank position sensor have all been replaced. And I think most all of my boost/ vacum leaks have been eliminated. Will the resistors help this??


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Did you delete all of those things?????








Running in open loop will mess with stuff bigtime. Get the resistors and replace the deleted items. Resistors will work on:
N112
N249
SAIP
N80
N75
and probably more. But coolant temp and O2's is a no go!


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Did you delete all of those things?????








Running in open loop will mess with stuff bigtime. Get the resistors and replace the deleted items. Resistors will work on:
N112
N249
SAIP
N80
N75
and probably more. But coolant temp and O2's is a no go!
 NO way brother!! I was just saying that I just replaced all that stuff with new parts!! The only things gone are the N112, N249,SAIP,N80!! So the lack of resistors,sensors or flash is causing my rich condition??


----------



## tomespo (Jul 21, 2008)

cant find the 330ohm 10w resistors anwehre i went to 3 different radio shack's. anywhere else sell them? looking to go to a store and not order online


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*

Zeusenergy seems like one of the most standup guys on here. Just paypal him a few dollars and get the resistors from him. I think I'm going to get them to hold me over for a while til I get flashed.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (tomespo)*

By the time you find them they would be at your door from me








I ship next morning, every time.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Zeus... Do you feel like chiming in on my other post??


----------



## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Partsexpress dot com. $0.39 a piece. been on my car for 2 years no problem.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Thank you for the good comment bro. Yeah you should resistor the missing stuff it will definitely improve the performance of your car.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dckeener)*

That's where I ordered the resistors for everyone. I did it at 40 count so the shipping would be one charge, then ship out smaller amounts to everyone. I had to wait a week and a half for mine to show up from them








And I paid $14 or so just for shipping the 40 I got.
I'm losing money over here.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Dude you got the wrong part!!! Can't you tell it looks so much different... Better go get your money back and buy a real K03


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Dude you got the wrong part!!! Can't you tell it looks so much different... Better go get your money back and buy a real K03

















i will right away


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Heya, if you want you can send me that piece of ****, I'll send you my 022 so you can have a *real* BT


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (l88m22vette)*

HAAHAHAA







I get 1st dibz...


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

have emissions tests in md can i do this and get a way with it? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *dtcaward* »_have emissions tests in md can i do this and get a way with it? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


no you cant unless you get uni or tapp to clear the codes


----------



## Murphyman20thGTI (Oct 5, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_
no you cant unless you get uni or tapp to clear the codes

Correct! i had same problem with emissions, just installed my Uni 630 file 3 days ago and NO lights on dash!! moday i will get inspected http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif finaly


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dtcaward)*

You COULD, but either you will have to wing it and clear your codes, then drive the car aropund for readiness (or use VAGCOM for it) and hope the codes don't pop.


----------



## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

just wanted to post up some stuff i got going on.
i removed all this stuff about 8 months back.
after 2 months i blew the motor. got it back running about a month ago.
i have had a malfunction with the camshaft position actuator(tensioner) and after about 20 straight hours of pulling all my tucked wires back out and looking at wiring diagrams. i found that the n249 plug has a black/yellow wire which farther up the harness connects to two other wires of the same color.(one from the n205 or the tensioner and one from the n75 valve) once they become one wire, they go into a plug thats located below the left headlight. then the wire runs into the fuse panel to the fuel pump fuse.
now if you got all that... i had a resistor in the n249 and i just removed it so the n249 is just unplugged and my code.. camshaft position actuator bank 1 circuit malfunction has not come back on after driving it. boost is fine and no code with the n249 not having a resistor so far.
thats my info. anyone have an issue like this.
i am just worried about fuel being messed up having that n249 wirhout a restistor now.
my motor is now fully built stroker and i dont want any problems 
pic


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (vwgolfracer)*

Sounds like the ground for all of those devices. It comes from a shared source. The cam position actuator sounds like the cam adjustment valve.... the tensioner at the back of the head that adjusts the chain. It definitely shares ground with the other devices. Running without the N249 plugged in or a resistor for it can't be good, but I'm not sure if it really does interfere with closed loop mode.


----------



## Dub_n_irie (Mar 10, 2009)

all that removal stuff is the same for the mk3 2.0???? or just the sai?


----------



## Crispy222 (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: (Dub_n_irie)*

mk3 2.0? just PCV, maybe EVAP.
no boost, no SAI, no N249


----------



## Dub_n_irie (Mar 10, 2009)

i do have sai and i know theres no boost lol... kinda weird cuz it was connected to the egr oh well that stuff is gone now lol...


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Dub_n_irie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dub_n_irie* »_i do have sai and i know theres no boost lol... kinda weird cuz it was connected to the egr oh well that stuff is gone now lol... 

Yes, the SAI pushes air into the area normally reserved for EGR, just that it doesn't Exhaust Gas Recirculate at all. The SAI combi valve looks just like a EGR.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

EGR is the same "system" as SAI, but its the combi valve and SAI pump that actually do the work


----------



## Dub_n_irie (Mar 10, 2009)

so i can delete it still though right? no worries on that end? what is the stock size piping i am gonna yank my catalytic converter and clear out some stuff


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Dub_n_irie)*

You can't delete anything in CA. The environmental nazis will attack you with fines and confiscate your ride.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

x2, if in California you have to 
A. Register your car in a state without emissions laws/scans
B. Move out of California


----------



## Dub_n_irie (Mar 10, 2009)

nope no longer in CA now in TX in an area that isnt emissions monitored =o) gotta update my profile haha


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Dub_n_irie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dub_n_irie* »_so i can delete it still though right? no worries on that end? what is the stock size piping i am gonna yank my catalytic converter and clear out some stuff

OK then! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Yes you can delete it all if you choose. This thread and a bunch of others document exactly what is required. My signature has a link to the resistors I sell for deletes so your car wont run like isht when you cut the wires.
as for the exhaust go with one of the Tsudo deals for turbo-back. It's around $300 and that's usually shipped price! You can't beat it and the quality is decent as long as you don't mind having someone weld some of the seams between pipes. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by zeusenergy at 4:50 AM 6-28-2009_


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

just to clarify, if you send your ECM back to your tuner, they should be able to delete all the codes for SAI, EVAP, N249, N112, etc. right? 
this would eliminate the need for resistors, and would prevent any and all check engine lights or codes related to these systems being removed, in theory . . .
anyone done this? APR said they could do it for me, but I don't know what it would cost, and they did say I'd have to pull the ECM and physically send it to them


----------



## Crispy222 (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_just to clarify, if you send your ECM back to your tuner, they should be able to delete all the codes for SAI, EVAP, N249, N112, etc. right? 
this would eliminate the need for resistors, and would prevent any and all check engine lights or codes related to these systems being removed, in theory . . .
anyone done this? APR said they could do it for me, but I don't know what it would cost, and they did say I'd have to pull the ECM and physically send it to them

Yes, APR can do it if they have it in their hands. I have a 'no emission' file from APR that I got from my local dealer. It removed the post-cat O2 sensors so you can run a test pipe. I'm sure they, like any tuner, can make a file for your setup. APR is in the package tuning business. They want you to buy their kits which include software. They produce great stuff IMO.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Crispy222* »_
Yes, APR can do it if they have it in their hands. I have a 'no emission' file from APR that I got from my local dealer. It removed the post-cat O2 sensors so you can run a test pipe. I'm sure they, like any tuner, can make a file for your setup. APR is in the package tuning business. They want you to buy their kits which include software. They produce great stuff IMO.


Revo wont do it tho for any of their files trust me ive tried multiple times to get them to and in their response was there isnt a market for it and we will never do the delete files


----------



## themachasy (Jan 28, 2006)

*Re: (Crispy222)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Crispy222* »_
Yes, APR can do it if they have it in their hands. I have a 'no emission' file from APR that I got from my local dealer. It removed the post-cat O2 sensors so you can run a test pipe. I'm sure they, like any tuner, can make a file for your setup. APR is in the package tuning business. They want you to buy their kits which include software. They produce great stuff IMO.

AFAIK APR can't get rid of the SAI improper flow code. The 2nd o2 sensor is a little different... And they don't do custom files for normal people.


_Modified by themachasy at 5:34 AM 6-30-2009_


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Crispy222)*

Both eurodyne and unitronic do delete files.. I spoke to both. They both want 700$ for a stock turbo flash with deletes..


----------



## Murphyman20thGTI (Oct 5, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

I had revo stg3 but they dont offer much deletes, so Went UNI so NO CEL light for me!!
Revo stg 3 ECU awp up for grabs http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4457146


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Murphyman20thGTI)*

Sorry guys... I also forgot to mention that I spoke to reflected last week and he does the delete flash by itself for 50$ if you send him your ecu. He told me that his turnaround is same day too. He also told me that he could combine the deletes with his own 19 psi flash for 250$ total. This may be a nice option for those on a budget.. Are you listening zeus??


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_Sorry guys... I also forgot to mention that I spoke to reflected last week and he does the delete flash by itself for 50$ if you send him your ecu. He told me that his turnaround is same day too. He also told me that he could combine the deletes with his own 19 psi flash for 250$ total. This may be a nice option for those on a budget.. Are you listening zeus??

He was honest with me and let me know the ECU I have with engine code AWV he has no files for flashing with a tune, but the deletes he CAN do. I bet he could figure it out.... And I may just have to send it to him anyway since my inspecion is due NOW.


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (themachasy)*

I already have the "test pipe" software, so cat codes shouldn't be an issue. I called APR and they told me over the phone that they could delete any codes I wanted, but they would have to have the ECM in hand.
again, don't know what it would cost, but I think its awesome they are willing to do it. I know a lot of guys like Revo, Uni and GIAC, but this is another reason why I still continue to support APR -


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

can reflected do the deletes from other aftermarket software such as my APR tune?


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_can reflected do the deletes from other aftermarket software such as my APR tune?

Very good question.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

I wouldn't see why not. The maps and blocks are all in the same places no matter what the tune. He even told me he could do deletes on my ECU even though he would not be able to do a tune, and never worked with my ECU code before. I don't know of anyone who has done a delete through him though, and that's the only worry for me.


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_I wouldn't see why not. The maps and blocks are all in the same places no matter what the tune. He even told me he could do deletes on my ECU even though he would not be able to do a tune, and never worked with my ECU code before. I don't know of anyone who has done a delete through him though, and that's the only worry for me.

Sounds like someone has to take one for the team. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

^^ nothing good ever starts with those words


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

Especially when its some leftover girl at a bar.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

GRENADE!


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

could you do deletes yourself with VagCom? or at least trick it?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_I wouldn't see why not. The maps and blocks are all in the same places no matter what the tune. He even told me he could do deletes on my ECU even though he would not be able to do a tune, and never worked with my ECU code before. I don't know of anyone who has done a delete through him though, and that's the only worry for me.
 what's the worst that can happen zeus?? You might lose 50 bucks.. But at the end of the day we could always flame the guy in a thread!! It'll be fun either way







J/K!! I searched around and didn't find any negative posts about any work he's done.. He seems like a real stand up guy.. If not you can always swing over to the eurodyne camp with me.. Issam and Arnold are great guys..


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_ what's the worst that can happen zeus?? You might lose 50 bucks.. But at the end of the day we could always flame the guy in a thread!! It'll be fun either way







J/K!! I searched around and didn't find any negative posts about any work he's done.. He seems like a real stand up guy.. If not you can always swing over to the eurodyne camp with me.. Issam and Arnold are great guys..

I suppose the worst that could happen is ol' Zeus is minus one ECU. 
haha










_Modified by Andaloons at 6:36 PM 9-8-2009_


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

I wouldn't worry about that... Even if he did. Zeus is a great guy. And I for one would be taking a trip down south right to his doorstep with a few other guys that zeus has helped along the way..( I have reflected's address) .. Zeus wouldn't be out anything. But I really don't see reflected ripping anyone off..


_Modified by dubinsincuwereindiapers at 5:41 PM 7-1-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Hahaha! Thanks for the props man. We will see how the inspection goes first, then I'll move on from there. Have to wait about a week so we'll see. I did pull the battery cable and reset the CEL. So now it's a wait for the readiness and go scan it.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Goog luck with that dude.. I've tryed every suggestion that I've heard on here to get rid of the improper flow code.... To no avail...


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Pretty sure I'll end up with a tune before the month's out.


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_I've tryed every suggestion that I've heard on here to get rid of the improper flow code.... To no avail...









x2 here. I'd be willing to let reflected erase my codes, But i fear that when I do get chipped, it'll be $50 down the tube and thats a lot nowadays. I wonder if I get flashed if it will overwrite reflected's deletes? I don't have emissions testing, but I get sick of explaining to every person who rides along (guys and girls) why the CEL is on. "I SWEAR, NOTHING is wrong w/ my car"








I think its time for him to chime in and make a buck http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by max13b2 at 11:58 AM 7-2-2009_


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (max13b2)*

interesting question - 
one alternative would be to yank the bulb


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_interesting question - 
one alternative would be to yank the bulb








 That is not a solution to anything.. We like to keep our ecu's happy for maximum efficiency and engine performance. The Bosch ME7 ecu in our cars is a very sophisticated engine management system. If you tune it properly to suit your goals you can have as much power as you want with factory safeguards and reliability. Ignoring a cel is more likely than not costing you power no matter what equipment you have installed. When a cel is triggered it means something in the system is out of sync. In most cases when the ecu senses something isn't right it triggers a cel and then it will add more fuel than needed,pull boost pressure, pull timing, etc. This is the engines way of protecting itself.. Any of these actions will cost you power and fuel economy..


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_ That is not a solution to anything.. When a cel is triggered it means something in the system is out of sync. 
This is the engines way of protecting itself.. 

Correct. And just having that light staring at you blindly, or pulling the LED out/covering it prevents you from seeing when something BAD happens.


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (themachasy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *themachasy* »_
AFAIK

_Modified by themachasy at 5:34 AM 6-30-2009_


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

ima throw in my experience with deleting all of this, its been about two months and the only codes that i got were ''open circuit" codes for the N112 and n249. I never got the ''improper flow'' code. I have a2002 jetta AWP. And all i did was remove the two solenoids from the bracket, and plug them back in to the plugs and VOILA! no more CEL.










_Modified by turbeau3 at 6:44 AM 7-3-2009_


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

^^ That makes me think...if you disconnect the solenoids (like you did) and reset the ECU, you'll get the open circuit for both. Since they are crucial to adaptation I wonder if running w/o those will cause the ECU to set with those codes and ignore SAI...? It would be great if the Motronic had to see the N112 signal to worry about the flow stuff


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

Do we have a light at the end or the tunnel here?? Possible solution to the problem with improper flow codes? http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

yea sending your ecu to a reputable dealer and have them erase the codes for good


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_yea sending your ecu to a reputable dealer and have them erase the codes for good

I guess I should have put a "without spending money" at the end of that.


----------



## Brah (Mar 5, 2007)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

There are a couple places online that offer software to more or less edit your ECU, deleting codes and change acceptable parameters, etc... 
Has anyone else looked into this? They aparently work through your choice of an OBD2 port, or directly in to the ECU.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Brah)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Brah* »_There are a couple places online that offer software to more or less edit your ECU, deleting codes and change acceptable parameters, etc... 
Has anyone else looked into this? They aparently work through your choice of an OBD2 port, or directly in to the ECU. 

That stuff is hit or miss and you need to know what you are looking for (again, reflected would be the one to hit up... he hangs in the motronic forum) but then the learning curve is way high and technical knowledge also needs to be at a premium. $100 on top of a tune sounds fairly reasonable to me although I wanted to avoid paying over $500 just to alter some code.


----------



## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

anyone wanna come delete mine with me for some







?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_
I guess I should have put a "without spending money" at the end of that.

Cheapest is reflected's deal. He already bought the stuff needed to modify the ECU and has some skills. (this is all judging on what he says, not what he did for me...)


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *rabriolet* »_anyone wanna come delete mine with me for some








?


possibly ill help you out with it


----------



## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

when i do it i wanna do it all right though, my friend did it to his gfs car and just stuck bolts in the holes. I wanna cap it all and make it clean and OEM looking as possible


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (rabriolet)*

its a really straightforward DIY why not just tackle it yourself... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_Do we have a light at the end or the tunnel here?? Possible solution to the problem with improper flow codes? http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif 
 Nope.. Sorry.. I've tryed every possible combination of all proposed solutions several times each. In fact leaving everything unplugged is the worst one. The car stays in open loop and runs like total poo. A flash is the only complete solution. Resistored it runs great. But you still get the improper flow code. And if you haven't gotten the code yet.. You will. I drive the car 70-150 miles a day. Almost every night I fiddle with something and clear the ecu. The next day it throws a cel. Sometimes it won't throw it til over 100+ miles of driving, sometimes it throws it after 35+ miles. I'm convinced that a flash is the only permanent solution.


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

2months still no improper flow code http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

What exactly did you do?? Step by step in detail... Ill try it tonight


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

honestly i just followed Savs DIY. Also, check my earlier post today in this thread about the 112 and N249. I dont feel like retyping it


----------



## rabriolet (May 27, 2005)

*Re: (turbeau3)*


_Quote, originally posted by *turbeau3* »_ima throw in my experience with deleting all of this, its been about two months and the only codes that i got were ''open circuit" codes for the N112 and n249. I never got the ''improper flow'' code. I have a2002 jetta AWP. And all i did was remove the two solenoids from the bracket, and plug them back in to the plugs and VOILA! no more CEL.









_Modified by turbeau3 at 6:44 AM 7-3-2009_

you mean this?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

You are just plain lucky, sir


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (rabriolet)*

i do







try it


----------



## turbeau3 (Jul 17, 2006)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_You are just plain lucky, sir








 guess so


----------



## Crispy222 (Mar 10, 2008)

I have a B5 Passat 1.8T AEB with a 557P ECU box. I have test pipe/ no emissions APR 91 oct file. I removed the PCV hard line, added a head breather port and catch can. I run a Turbo Smart Eboost 2 controller. I have removed the N75 completely and resistor the plug to remove the code. I removed the hard vacuum line that goes across the bay from the intake manifold, around the back of the motor on the firewall, and into the Y on the EVAP solenoid. I don't want to fully remove the EVAP system yet. I don't see the reason. I get the improper flow code even thought there is constant vacuum pulling threw the turbo inlet pipe. I also replaced that slim hard line with a 3/8" ID hose to increase the flow, but it doesn't stop the code from coming back. Next step I'm taking is to replace the 3/8" hose with 3/4" and connect it to the PCV nipple on the TIP with a 90 deg elbow. I hope this will pull enough flow when the solenoid opens.
I'll update sometime next week when I finish and test.


_Modified by Crispy222 at 12:19 PM 7-4-2009_


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (turbeau3)*

just got done with mine, went with a 3/4 host on the valve cover (had to use lube to get it on) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif haha. and to the elbow on the filter housing and got a 3/4 3/4 3/8 T at the help section so I didnt have to have the reducers and the extra hose clamps. 
Also I ran a 3/8 line from the port on the throttle body to the hardline on the passengers side and then reduced down to a vacuum line for my boost gauge. This way i didnt have to go with any T's on my vacuum system. Pretty satisfied how it went.
pics for pleasure


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

How are you going to test for inspection with everything missing? They're gonna string you up for doing this.


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

I live in florida, well actually I live in California but I have florida plates. There is no inspection nor smog.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

X2... My inlaws live in florida. I have actually considered getting my license and reg down there next time we fly down. You can drive a race car on the street down there. As long as you have headlights, turnsignals, brakelights, brakes, and tread on the tires your good to go.







There are a couple states left that still resemble America... Not many though... Oklahoma didn't have a speed limit on one of their major highways until a couple years ago..


----------



## wolfsburg2617 (Apr 25, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

to pass inspection: you find a good garage and throw them work - establish a repore. or you get lucky and they hook up, don't see any codes, and you're good to go. inspection criterion can be a bit subjective from mechanic to mechanic as well. aftermarket sw is the only way to truely prevent codes from being thrown.
read the whole thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

yep, going with unitronic had its perks


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

Eurodyne is just as good. Offers the same deletes.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (wolfsburg2617)*

I missed that he lives in Florida. I also used to live there (Debary/ORL) and drove a POS dodge van with so many problems, in NH they would have arrested me for driving to endanger.


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

One of the ONLY benefits of living in FL http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_Zeusenergy seems like one of the most standup guys on here. Just paypal him a few dollars and get the resistors from him. I think I'm going to get them to hold me over for a while til I get flashed.


hey Zeusenergy, do you still have some of the resistors laying around? a buddy of mine is getting ready to do this and i used all the extras i had when i cleaned up my bay.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Do you still need to resistor the connectors if your software has deleted those items out? I know it sounds like a dumb question, but I wasn't sure if you still needed the resistors to satisfy the ECU.


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dlsolo* »_Do you still need to resistor the connectors if your software has deleted those items out? I know it sounds like a dumb question, but I wasn't sure if you still needed the resistors to satisfy the ECU.


not sure, but mine were still in the harness so i just left them.....


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

i have a bunch of those resistors, i had to order a bunch from someone to get them becasue of a $20 minimum. if you guys want some, paypal is [email protected] i have been getting $1 per resistor plus $1.50 shipping. i used a total of 5 on my system (evap, SAI, n249, n112, n75)


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_i have a bunch of those resistors, i had to order a bunch from someone to get them becasue of a $20 minimum. if you guys want some, paypal is [email protected] i have been getting $1 per resistor plus $1.50 shipping. i used a total of 5 on my system (evap, SAI, n249, n112, n75) 


sweet thanks man, let me see what they want to do and i will get back with you ASAP, i hvae 2 buddies trying to do this! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

FYI- contrary to popular belief, you DO NOT need a resistor on the SAI pump harness. Been running w/o one for a while now w/ no "open circuit" CEL being thrown. There is a relay under the hood in the box near the firewall that turns on the pump. As long as that is in place, bam- no resistor needed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *max13b2* »_FYI- contrary to popular belief, you DO NOT need a resistor on the SAI pump harness. Been running w/o one for a while now w/ no "open circuit" CEL being thrown. There is a relay under the hood in the box near the firewall that turns on the pump. As long as that is in place, bam- no resistor needed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


hmmm, very interesting...


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*

Where could one source suitable silicone hosing for redoing all of this and what sizes? It's been over a year since I've really seen my car, so, I can't even begin to guess.


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

i had open circuit code for the SAI before i put in the resistor. very interesting...


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (inivid)*

I used rubber heater hose and fuel line for this job, I used about 2 feet of 3/4" tube, 2 feet of 1/2 tube and 4 feet of 3/8" tube. I also used about 3.5 feet of 5/32" vacuum line. plus a boat load of clamps and random pieces for reducers and T's


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

hey nukinfutz, are you sure it was a open circuit code or just the improper flow code? Of course the improper flow code will be there, but as long as the relay is in place AND functioning correctly, you should not have had the open circuit code for the SAI pump


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (fouckhest)*

No I'm out bro.


----------



## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (nukinfutz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_I used rubber heater hose and fuel line for this job, I used about 2 feet of 3/4" tube, 2 feet of 1/2 tube and 4 feet of 3/8" tube. I also used about 3.5 feet of 5/32" vacuum line. plus a boat load of clamps and random pieces for reducers and T's

i have some ideas for making the bay super ****ing clean, but it's the details that are hanging me up. i'll just have to wait until this fall, then take a count of what silicone pieces i need (i.e. elbows, junctions, transitions, and straight pieces of silicone and tubing). i'm really wanting to stay away from using normal band clamps, if i can, in order to keep things clean-looking. still looking for alternatives.


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_No I'm out bro.









no worries! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







i think they will either snag them when they order block off plates, or ill get them from nukinfutz


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dlsolo* »_Do you still need to resistor the connectors if your software has deleted those items out? I know it sounds like a dumb question, but I wasn't sure if you still needed the resistors to satisfy the ECU.

Unitronic said you can cut the connectors/wiring out and not have any issues. Don't know about the rest of the tuners.


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

zeus, on a standard tune you can do that?


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

Nope, Uni won't do a simple readiness flash, it has to be done with their Stg2 tune flash. I don't see how they don't want to make $150, I guarantee a ton of people would get readiness deleted because they are worried about stuff other than power. Oh well, my $150 looks nice in my bank account


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

well i have stage 2, so what all does it take out?


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

only UNI custom big tune take that out i believe.....it will be on the form you fill out when you get the program if it available http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (fouckhest)*

I been in contact with them for months and they most certainly will do deletes for rear O2 and SAI stuff as long as you get a tune from them, stock K03 or not. I'll be doing mine next week as long as they can deal with my NB AWV....


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

its a custom tune, you have to request it 1-2 days before you go into get the flash, it costs an extra $100 to $150 on a stg2 flash.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (fouckhest)*

Uni isn't the only game in town for delete flashes guys.. Eurodyne offers the same service for the same price


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

we know, we just have UNI already


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

I think it's funny all these custom tunes and special options are so expensive. You would think these tuners would lower the price over time to get more of the less-likely-to-tune guys in. You have to figure with all the dealers out there, the original R&D for the tune itself has been paid for and then some. It's kind of like the software market. I'll pay for a useful piece of software, but I will never pay for MS Office again since OpenOffice is 100% free.
It's not like the time to reflash the ECM takes a while or anything...
Now if you look at what the flash is WORTH to you value wise, sure $500-600 isn't much to pay for the 30-50 HP increase. And tossing in the ability to pass OBD-II scans and have no CEL is worth the $100-150 the vendors are asking. There's no other game in town for this stuff anyway besides the few we use, it's not like there's some huge market for tunes like Hondas. 
I'd still love to have a simple software to modify whatever I please on any level than to just let some company take my $ and give me whatever they feel is best for me. The few out there who actually have done this on their own either turn into tuners or don't spill all the beans. Savwko was talking about this for a very long time, a few years back with some very intelligent people on a forum outside the Tex and never got anywhere with it AFAICT.


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Well, I've gutted all my EVAP stuff, plus the SAI and things are awesome! Uni software is a big help to that. All in all, I'm a happy camper!


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_Uni isn't the only game in town for delete flashes guys.. Eurodyne offers the same service for the same price









who cares? you already mentioned that in the previous page


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

I really want to do all these mods, but I've never worked on a car ever before. It kinda looks intimidating but I'll give it a shot...
What exactly do I need though? 
I know for sure I need the SAI block-off plate and the SAI pump resistor, as well as a 'catch can', some 3/4" or 19mm inner diameter hosing, G12 engine coolant, and what else? 
And where would I get these things within Canada?


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

For the last time, you DO NOT need a resistor on the SAI pump harness, only the N249, N112, and N80 harnesses. Get those three, some coolant, SAI plate, and catch can if so desired and all hoses/vaccum plugs. Good to go from there and be done!


----------



## BTPG (Apr 27, 2009)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_Uni isn't the only game in town for delete flashes guys.. Eurodyne offers the same service for the same price









gotta love my eurodyne flash for $650 as compared to $890 for uni


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (BTPG)*

as far as pcv edit--> catch can install, is it ok to run a breather off the v/c and run the line from the oil filter housing straight to catch can? then catch can back to inlet pipe?
im not a fan of the fittings everywhere.


----------



## max13b2 (Jul 24, 2007)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*

does your catch can have two intake ports? If so run the valve cover to one and the crankcase to the other, otherwise run the two together teed into one line to the catch can inlet, then the outlet to either the puck valve on the tip or put a filter on the oulet and run it to atmosphere. Most run to atmosphere and block off the tip port.


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (max13b2)*

i might do that, but i dont want any more unwanted smell, even if it disappears with the recirc. 
might leave it the way it is and just get better fittings to make it cleaner http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (BTPG)*

how do you figure $890 for uni, you dont have to get a BT software for your ko3 car, just add the emmisions delete file.


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

heres what im working with btw. 
















yes the clamps are excessive, thats what im trying to sort out...no good shops were open for adapters, so i settled for lowes tuning.


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

looks good


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_how do you figure $890 for uni, you dont have to get a BT software for your ko3 car, just add the emmisions delete file. 


i was quoted 900 for uni bt software with all the deletes and everything


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*

Good looking engine bay, but that catch can is the suck...


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

you dont need a BT file for the delete, just a regular flash plus the add on. so $600 for stg1 and so on up from there


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (RvGrnGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RvGrnGTI* »_
who cares? you already mentioned that in the previous page








 yes I did.. The fact remains that Uni is plastered all over the place in here and not everyone is aware of Eurodyne.. I also forgot to mention its much cheaper to upgrade to a bt flash from Eurodynes delete flash, than the same upgrade from Uni..


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Unitronic sponsors the forum, that's why you see it everywhere lol.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (RvGrnGTI)*

I'm aware of that.. Just trying to let people know they have options.


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Good looking engine bay, but that catch can is the suck...

truth, im gonna change it, but it does the job for now, couldnt stand the crap under the intake mani.


----------



## Slampig (Jun 20, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

subscribed


----------



## fancyTHIS (Sep 30, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (401R32)*

Just did mine.
Thanks for the writeup, couldnt have done it without you. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

My local electronics shop only has 300ohm/10w and 380ohm/10w resistors. Would it be a problem to put the 300 ohm resistors?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (veedubfreak9000)*

Get the 300's. They will be fine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

I just bypassed my n249 completely today, here's a helpful pic for those interested in keeping the bracket on there. 
pull and cap the lines that go to the vac res and DV, and reconnect a line from the DV hardline to the manifold. I used a nipple that I freed up doing my brakebooster edit.


----------



## bizybyker (May 25, 2005)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*

Sooo does anyone know if this will pass emissions? Bwhahahahahahahaha. 
P.S. Pancakes.








Raise it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (supersoaker50)*


_Quote, originally posted by *supersoaker50* »_


















Perfect example of a terrible catch can setup. Look how small those lines are...


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

Bejan The Catch Can NaZi







He's correct though.. You should be running at least 5/8" line. Plus the can is a little to far away for my taste.. Nice bay though


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (The*Fall*Guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The*Fall*Guy* »_Bejan The Catch Can NaZi







He's correct though.. You should be running at least 5/8" line. Plus the can is a little to far away for my taste.. Nice bay though









actually the farther from the engine, the better it will work as it will be colder. The colder you can get the can, the easier it will precipitate the oil out of the air. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (The*Fall*Guy)*

UBER small lines, and I have the same can, it has the tiniest ports ever. I'm actually looking to get it tapped for 3/4" NPT so that I can run 3/4" or 1" line to it. 
I've heard that if the lines are too small it can actually hurt the car by not evacuating pressure quickly enough


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*

Ding ding ding, we have a winner!
You are 100% correct. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

I beg to differ:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4417082


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

if you have that stuff removed and then chip the car with an emissions delete would the car run fine or would you have problems


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_I beg to differ:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4417082

Hehhe wondering when someone would dig that up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It's true there is little flow, but from both points there would be an easy shot into the intake with vacuum available. Using a catch can with small ports isn't a great idea and routing the thing into the TIP isn't a good idea as it won't provide the same kind of flow especially with long, narrow hoses. A short choke point may be okay but long lines with small diameter is bad. A draft tube coming off the breather tee under the intake like I have done or a filter directly on it vents just fine though. My case gets no pressure and the valve cover and cap no longer leak on my car after deleting all that stuff going to manifold and TIP.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (dubbin' on Jlines)*

This thread's content, if you are to remove everything listed, with a delete tune would run just fine. Remember, it'll cost upwards of $600 no matter what tune you choose! And be sure the vendor can delete ALL emissions equipment BEFORE deleting. Be sure you won't get busted in your state either- california is HORRIBLE in cases like this and you may be fined heavily. Other states may do the same. 
TBH, I just removed the major stuff, and have reinstalled the SAI pump and N112 temporarily for my inspection- which I passed!







I'll just hold onto the pump and N112 and reinstall next season. Screw the tune, diode and MBC are much cheaper and provide me with more than enough juice and control.


----------



## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

OK... How about this:
I'm in California, I just replaced the cyl head in my 1.8t. I put all the emissions back in place, however the replacement head I used did NOT have the port for the SAI valve. Do you think I will pass the CA test? If not, what do I need to do to pass it. 
I noticed that the SAI pump does not run if the engine is warm, so I was thinking of warming up the engine, resetting all codes, then driving the 15+ miles to get readiness without having the SAI cycle come on.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (Varooom)*

EPA rule of thumb: CEL = no pass, and unless readiness is tuned out you will get a CEL. This has been said 100x in this thread


----------



## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (l88m22vette)*

there are a number of codes that will not turn on the cel, including readiness not passed. So you can fail CA emissions without the cel on, easy. My question was..... will the missing SAI port in the head set a code and if so, is there any known way to avoid it. There have been a few cars to pass CA emissions without the airpump installed. 


_Modified by Varooom at 10:17 AM 8-13-2009_


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (Varooom)*

I thought you could have 1 readiness not pass in california, and still pass smog?


----------



## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BoostinBejan* »_I thought you could have 1 readiness not pass in california, and still pass smog?

Not sure... I'm going to try the method I mentioned above... going in today, I'll report back. I have rosstech so I can take a look that way.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Varooom)*

Not having a SAI pump and combi in place and functioning in cali is big-time problem dude, they do visual there too, and will notice the SAI hose not running to anything. Removing the stuff and running a delete software is doubly bad if they find out. You will be fined or prevented from driving the car.


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I just leave my SAI and I will leave my Combi "hooked up" event though it won't be. I will use my blockoff plate in between the head and the combi valve, and just bend the pins down on the SAI so when it's "connected" it's not actually on. Visual will get ya.


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

well im in ny and its not as bad as ca
i already got my car flashed by uni stage 2 with emissions and having some problems and just wondering if having these removed with emssions deleted would effect boost
and what size do you guys recommned the cach can tubes be


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Hehhe wondering when someone would dig that up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It's true there is little flow, but from both points there would be an easy shot into the intake with vacuum available. Using a catch can with small ports isn't a great idea and routing the thing into the TIP isn't a good idea as it won't provide the same kind of flow especially with long, narrow hoses. *A short choke point may be okay but long lines with small diameter is bad.* A draft tube coming off the breather tee under the intake like I have done or a filter directly on it vents just fine though. My case gets no pressure and the valve cover and cap no longer leak on my car after deleting all that stuff going to manifold and TIP.

I have the same cheapy can. What if I use 5/8" hoses reduced to 1/2" and then use a barb reducer connector down to a hose size for the catch can's inlet size? (I hope that made sense, I'm a noob)








Modifying the size of the inlets seems like a lot more trouble.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*








My setup.. 5/8 lines, 034 vented can, im going to add some angled barb adaptors to shorten up the lines some more


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubfreak9000* »_
I have the same cheapy can. What if I use 5/8" hoses reduced to 1/2" and then use a barb reducer connector down to a hose size for the catch can's inlet size? (I hope that made sense, I'm a noob)








Modifying the size of the inlets seems like a lot more trouble.

it's not that hard, you should be able to find a machine shop that will drill and top 2 holes for you for like $10
have you taken the elbows off the can ever? the hole is like 1/8" big! way too small . . .
I would at least buy some cheap copper and pull the elbows and jb weld the new ones in so the ports are a lil bigger


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

yeah i have taken them off.. so basically, block off the 4 original holes and get the machine chop to drill two new holes to fit in 5/8" barbs? I noticed there was like a rubber sealing glue used when removed, where can I get some of that?? (I live in Canada)


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*

X2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif drill and tap that bad-boy!! Those tiny lines are doing nothing for you. 5/8" minimum


----------



## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_Not having a SAI pump and combi in place and functioning in cali is big-time problem dude, they do visual there too, and will notice the SAI hose not running to anything. Removing the stuff and running a delete software is doubly bad if they find out. You will be fined or prevented from driving the car.


I don't think you understood what I was trying to say: I HAVE all the stuff in place and bolted on... ALL of it. It's just that the new head I just installed is NOT drilled for the lines that actually inject the air into the exhaust ports... so, the pump the sai valve, it's all there... it just wont put air into the exhaust stream.


----------



## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (Varooom)*

OK, for all that are interested... it worked. I got the engine to operating temp, reset codes, then drove 20 miles to do readiness and it passed CA emissions even though there are no SAI galleries in the cyl head. For those of you who have removed SAI and PUMP etc, I suggest resistors and this method of prepping for the CA test. 
cheers


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (Varooom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Varooom* »_OK, for all that are interested... it worked. I got the engine to operating temp, reset codes, then drove 20 miles to do readiness and it passed CA emissions even though there are no SAI galleries in the cyl head. For those of you who have removed SAI and PUMP etc, I suggest resistors and this method of prepping for the CA test. 
cheers









Good to hear, that's my plan


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (Varooom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Varooom* »_OK, for all that are interested... it worked. I got the engine to operating temp, reset codes, then drove 20 miles to do readiness and it passed CA emissions even though there are no SAI galleries in the cyl head. For those of you who have removed SAI and PUMP etc, I suggest resistors and this method of prepping for the CA test. 
cheers









Awesome. Good job!


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

Good job stickin it to the man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You deserve a










_Modified by The*Fall*Guy at 4:42 PM 8-14-2009_


----------



## iao4gli18t (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

Great I took off the n249 now my check engine light is on. Guess you forgot to mention that.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (iao4gli18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *iao4gli18t* »_Great I took off the n249 now my check engine light is on. Guess you forgot to mention that. 
 Dude.. Your supposed to resistor that off.. It was mentioned in SAVwKO's original post and like 200 other times in this thread


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Varooom)*

You rock! Proving me wrong is a very good thing sometimes http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








Dam I should have done this too....







Spent a month trying to figure something out.


----------



## iao4gli18t (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

I guess you forgot to mention the check engine light will come on with the n249 removed


----------



## iao4gli18t (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

I removed the n249 excatly how it was done in the photo. resistor it off ????


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (iao4gli18t)*

Just leave it plugged in and tuck it away somewhere hidden http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rewi9d (Oct 9, 2001)

*DV vac source*

Can I use the VAC source from the TB for the DV? or better to utilize the manifold? I can't tell if its pre or post the throttle plate.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: DV vac source (rewi9d)*

Go straight off the mani http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: DV vac source (l88m22vette)*


_Quote, originally posted by *l88m22vette* »_Go straight off the mani http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
 x2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I didn't like the idea of running anything off that port. Hence the reason I deleted it. On a side note I also deleted the port on the end of the intake mani to facillitate the mounting of my catch can to that unused threaded boss on the end of the mani.. Now all of my lines run under the mani.. I still want to route them a bit cleaner though..


----------



## iao4gli18t (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (inivid)*

Complete waist of time. I am happy I didn't follow the instructions and cut the rubber hoses. When I realized my check engine light came on I put it back togrther. It would have been much more difficult had I cut the hoses. Went to the shop this morning to clear the codes and felt like a fool when they asked me why I did this. Of course the engine bay looked better in the pics. They polished the valve cover, put in intercooler piping , chromed the altenator and added an intake.


----------



## iao4gli18t (Jul 31, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

Didn't read the thred before I started this. All I can say is I'm glad I didn't cut the hoses like it said because it would have cost me to put it back together. Complete waist of time!


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

*Re: (iao4gli18t)*

Just did this on my buddies GTI, I have to say that it is a A LOT cleaner. Just remember to put the check-valve in the brake booster line if you re-route that with rubber line. We discussed it and all beforehand and then forgot to until he drove a few miles and had no brake assist!! 
But he has a 2003 with no chip or anything and we left all the valves and sec. air pump hooked up for now, just removed all hardware and lines........resistors best to source off the internet? But he has not had a CEL yet, but we'll see.....I'm expecting a low flow for SAI or EVAP. 
-J. Hines
I'll update on how everything turns out with time, still have some tweeking to do and all.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (iao4gli18t)*

You are supposed to install a resistor into the n249 harness. If you don't it will throw a cel and cause other issues. YOU OBVIOUSLY DIDN'T READ THE WHOLE THREAD 


_Modified by The*Fall*Guy at 4:18 PM 8-15-2009_


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (The*Fall*Guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The*Fall*Guy* »_You are supposed to install a resistor into the n249 harness. If you don't it will throw a cel and cause other issues. YOU OBVIOUSLY DIDN'T READ THE WHOLE THREAD 

Brings up a saying we use at the shop a lot......." YOU JUST CAN'T FIX STUPID!!" But oh well, my buddy is more than pleased with it and it looks 1000x better now and we still aren't done with everything yet. Great write-up too, if you screw this up, it's your own fault and if you get a CEL, it's the price you pay, plus....you own a VW, live with it!!








-J. Hines


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

i have a couple resistors left...


----------



## johnbmxinvasion (Jan 26, 2008)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

how much u lookin to get for the needed resistors? im the gti that was recently deleted. id like to get them from you.


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (johnbmxinvasion)*

you can co to a local radio shack buy them


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (dubbin' on Jlines)*

The 330 ohm 10w resistors are not available at radio shack.. Everyones tryed including myself.. You can get them from the user zeusenergy on here, or max13b on here for like 2$ shipped or less. I ordered mine from Integrated engineering for $6 ea because I was in a rush and my paypal was giving me issues.


----------



## jhines_06gli (Feb 3, 2006)

*Re: (The*Fall*Guy)*

Quick question.....if the complete delete is done with SAI, EVAP and PCV all removed and everything. The line that connects to the TIP right by the compressor housing, does that still need to be hooked to intake vacuum source. Seems kinda pointless to have a line that is incoming air(ambient pressure) hooked to an engine vacuum source. Just wondering on this, I know the thread says to hooked it back to the hardline on top of intake mani, but we removed that completely and ran coolant line under the intake mani. to clean up a little more.
-J. Hines
Basically here, we are chasing an issue with 2003 GTI(johnbmxinvasion) that boosts awesome off the line the first few times, but them goes into a limp-mode and will not boost untuil the key is cycled again, then good to go. But only fault so far is for TCM comm. and I have not had a chance to meet up and see what all we have with VAG-Com as far as readings from sensors and all. Car is not chipped, which is more than likely a little bit of the issue as well.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (jhines_06gli)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jhines_06gli* »_Quick question.....if the complete delete is done with SAI, EVAP and PCV all removed and everything. The line that connects to the TIP right by the compressor housing, does that still need to be hooked to intake vacuum source. Seems kinda pointless to have a line that is incoming air(ambient pressure) hooked to an engine vacuum source.
-J. Hines
.
 I wasn't clear on that one myself when I did the deletes.. But after re-reading. SAVwKO states in the beginning of the second half of the original post that if you want to do the full delete you are to trace that line back to the tip and cap it off.. He wrote the original post in two parts. This is why its a little fuzzy on that detail.. Its in there though.. Just easy to miss.


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (The*Fall*Guy)*

if you dekete the things and get a emissions flash should you still put resistors in them


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (dubbin' on Jlines)*

Arnold told me that if you do the Eurodyne flash the resistors aren't needed.. I can't speak for Uni though. Its probably the same.


----------



## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

*FV-QR*

If you want your BLOCK 032 trims, you will need to keep the resistors in. Just found that out... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4103572


----------



## rewi9d (Oct 9, 2001)

*how the crap?*

I'm redoing my catch can setup. how did you guys get the breather port off (out of) the valve cover? I know its just pressed in there but I can't get it to budge.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: how the crap? (rewi9d)*

I stuffed the hose onto that port. I used 5/8 hose though. It took me a good half hour to get the 5/8 hose onto that port. 3/4 hose will work better. I'm changing out my fittings soon though with angled ones in a couple places with 3/4 barbed fittings. Then 3/4 hose. I will be removing the valvecover to pull that port off and tap the hole for a 90 degree 3/4 barb.. I like my setup, but I want to run the larger hose, and shorten up the lengths a bit..


----------



## rewi9d (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: how the crap? (The*Fall*Guy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The*Fall*Guy* »_I stuffed the hose onto that port. I used 5/8 hose though. It took me a good half hour to get the 5/8 hose onto that port. 3/4 hose will work better. I'm changing out my fittings soon though with angled ones in a couple places with 3/4 barbed fittings. Then 3/4 hose. I will be removing the valvecover to pull that port off and tap the hole for a 90 degree 3/4 barb.. I like my setup, but I want to run the larger hose, and shorten up the lengths a bit..

yeah same here. have the cover off now (replacing cam tensioner gasket) figured I would do it now. where's a good place to get the 90 degree fitting? what should I use? 1/2" thread to 3/4" barb?
thanks.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: how the crap? (rewi9d)*

To be honest I'm not sure whether I'm going back to the Home Depot for brass npt fittings or if I'm going to just drop some coin on the real deal AN fittings with braided stainless hose. Either Earls or Aeroquip.. I'm undecided.. 
My gut tells me to just do all aircraft grade goodies when I pull the engine to go BT.. Aeroquip/Earls, V-band everything, etc..


----------



## rewi9d (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: how the crap? (The*Fall*Guy)*

yeah... if youre in it for the BT and long haul definitely put the extra bucks in. but I think NAPA, or home depot will prob work for me. still can't get this blasted thing out though. been crushing it and prying it all night. and you can't get to it from the inside because there's a baffle for oil spray thats riveted on.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

catch can question; I'm looking to make larger, 5/8" inlets on mine. I'm going to a machine shop to get this done. To block off the original holes, I was thinking maybe to use this fiberglass patch up stuff that I have, you guys think that would work??


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubfreak9000* »_catch can question; I'm looking to make larger, 5/8" inlets on mine. I'm going to a machine shop to get this done. To block off the original holes, I was thinking maybe to use this fiberglass patch up stuff that I have, you guys think that would work??

Dude don't do it. Just get the original hole in the VC redone for the thread you intend to use, and buy an adapter from 034 or reuse your stock outlet pipe on the oil filter housng. "Filling" holes in your motor is a last resort for accidents. Like frankiebonez did with his bolt hole to bellhousing when he blew his shizzle up...


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

You could also just get some pieces machined perfectly to fit the openings if you plan to do something "different" with hole placement.


----------



## rewi9d (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_
Dude don't do it. Just get the original hole in the VC redone for the thread you intend to use, and buy an adapter from 034 or reuse your stock outlet pipe on the oil filter housng. "Filling" holes in your motor is a last resort for accidents. Like frankiebonez did with his bolt hole to bellhousing when he blew his shizzle up...









i think he's talking about filling the holes in his catch can, not the engine. maybe?


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (rewi9d)*

No, I can't modify the original inlet holes because for each hole there's a threaded screw hole next to it that held down the 90 degree bent inlet pieces. It's too close to each other to make a 3/4" hole. The only option is to block all 4 holes with screws, meaning that the inlet holes need to be threaded.
I'm going to get myself a tap and die kit and some metal drill bits, do this all myself. The only machine shop that's reasonably close by quoted me $50 to do this







**** that, I wish I just bought a more expensive catch can that already had large inlets








Here's a diagram of what I plan to do:








Btw, I'm using 3/4" because there's NOWHERE here in Canada I can find 5/8" anything







, I looked everywhere, even the most specialized of places, only 3/4". It's too tight to fit without a lot of force, but I plan to use a dremel tool to make the openings on each end of the hoses just a tad bigger.
I tried ordering **** from the States and they quoted me $25 USD for shipping, for 2x $3 items
























_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 6:43 PM 8-17-2009_


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

3/4 is better anyway.. I'm going to upgrade from 5/8 to 3/4 soon on my setup.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (The*Fall*Guy)*

instead of tapping the top holes just put a plate over them using the threaded holes for bolts.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

that won't leak? isn't oil vapour going into the catch can??


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

Big deal, it's a catch can, it VENTS PRESSURE.


----------



## rewi9d (Oct 9, 2001)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

yeah, just use some jb weld if your worried.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (BoostinBejan)*

This thread is 1.8T forum's version of the "Stance Thread Version 2.0"







And Bejan is still the forums presiding "Catch Can Nazi"










_Modified by The*Fall*Guy at 7:25 PM 8-17-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (rewi9d)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rewi9d* »_yeah, just use some jb weld if your worried. 

Or just RTV the new top on around the holes before installing it.


----------



## johnbmxinvasion (Jan 26, 2008)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

hidden injector wires, black throttle body,polished intercooler pipe. hid some more hoses and wires today. need to reloate my ecm relay and sai relay into the car but im lazy!
































input? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## Varooom (Aug 5, 1999)

*Re: (johnbmxinvasion)*

Question: The hose leading off of the valve cover split open the other day and the smell at a red light was disgusting. I kept looking for a 70's vintage v8 clunker idling on 3 cylinders. But it was ME!!!! 
Does the catch can setup vent that noxious c**P to the atmosphere?
If so, I'll never ditch my tubes and hoses. 


_Modified by Varooom at 6:39 PM 8-19-2009_


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (Varooom)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Varooom* »_Question: The hose leading off of the valve cover split open the other day and the smell at a red light was disgusting. I kept looking for a 70's vintage v8 clunker idling on 3 cylinders. But it was ME!!!! 
Does the catch can setup vent that noxious c**P to the atmosphere?
Mine does http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

looks good to me.
I still have a couple resistors left if anyone needs them


----------



## engineerd18t (Dec 12, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dlsolo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dlsolo* »_If you want your BLOCK 032 trims, you will need to keep the resistors in. Just found that out... http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4103572

Yeah I'm pretty sure if you dont have them plugged in you'll run in open loop. I found this out the hard way when I filled up with some E85 and my car ran like crap because it wasn't adapting and using the o2 sensor as much (or at all??). Keep them plugged in or do the resistors.


----------



## BoostinBejan (Apr 13, 2009)

*Re: (johnbmxinvasion)*


_Quote, originally posted by *johnbmxinvasion* »_








input? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 

Perfect example of a very very poor catch can. Ports are FAR too small and will not provide adequate ventilation for your crankcase or valve cover. Bad Idea. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

so then whats the minimum good size? 1/2?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

5/8, but shoot for 3/4


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

how about a 3/4 from PCV and a 5/8 to vacuum?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

Just make sure the openings and internal diameters of every hole match those numbers.


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (zeusenergy)*

the vac line that runs from the bottom of the turbo where dose it connect to now after it has been cut? i put a resistor where the sai was do i need to put a resistor on any thing else?


----------



## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

*Re: (dtcaward)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dtcaward* »_the vac line that runs from the bottom of the turbo where dose it connect to now after it has been cut? i put a resistor where the sai was do i need to put a resistor on any thing else? 

Cap it.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

/cut
_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 4:29 AM 8-25-2009_


_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 7:37 PM 8-26-2009_


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

pumb


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

/edit


_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 7:37 PM 8-26-2009_


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

just so you guys know or who ever might be making the deletes. I have three resistors left before im out. just $1 each plus $1.50 shipping.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_
Now, there is a vac line that runs into those hardlines and also goes down to the bottom of your turbo inlet hose/pipe. Cut that line off.








[...]
Now all that's left to do is route 2 new vac lines. That one you cut that goes to the bottom of your TIP, take it off and run a new line all the way up to right by the intake manifold. You woulda cut the line going across the intake mani to pull those hardlines off. It will connect to a silver hardline that runs across the intake manifold.


Can somebody please clarify this part for me. I've been asking for days







My car's been out of commission. I've done everything for this delete (N249/SAI) except this part because I don't see anything that resembles his description and pics at all.


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

that step is just to retain proper vac to the EVAP system. if you deleted that system then you do not need to re route a line up there. just cap it.


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (veedubfreak9000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubfreak9000* »_
Can somebody please clarify this part for me. I've been asking for days







My car's been out of commission. I've done everything for this delete (N249/SAI) except this part because I don't see anything that resembles his description and pics at all.









That line goes down to the TIP which is the metal pipe that attaches directly to the turbo and up to the accordion rubber pipe with the MAF on the end. It's probably hard to get to. You must make sure and cap it or you will have a serious leak - opening to intake.


_Modified by Andaloons at 1:27 PM 8-27-2009_


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

I haven't done EVAP removal yet, just N249 and SAI. These two diagrams sum up exactly what I did:
















Does that make sense?


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_
That line goes down to the TIP which is the metal pipe that attaches directly to the turbo and up to the accordion rubber pipe with the MAF on the end. It's probably hard to get to. You mast make sure and cap it or you will have a serious leak - opening to intake.

I'll take a look tomorrow. How do I go about capping these points? With what usually? 


_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 8:24 PM 8-26-2009_


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*









i did not put this back in would this be why i getting a crazy sound and robin boost


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

there should be two of those in the system for your break booster line. i just put one back in. make sure all of the ports on the bottom of the intake mani are either used or capped.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

do you really need the check valve for the break booster


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

yes as you will not have breaks under power.


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_there should be two of those in the system for your break booster line. i just put one back in. make sure all of the ports on the bottom of the intake mani are either used or capped. 

yea i got both capped off. i don't remember seeing two of them. the funny thing is that i thow that part out so i get to the dealership


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

I had a total of 5 ports on my mani, two small vac sources, one 1/2 port for break booster and 2 around 3/8 on either side of the oil dipstick


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

oh and one on the tb for the evap. make sure the hardline that runs across the top of the intake mani is routed to a vac source on the tip, this feeds the evap system. that MIGHT be a problem if thats not capped


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_oh and one on the tb for the evap. make sure the hardline that runs across the top of the intake mani is routed to a vac source on the tip, this feeds the evap system. that MIGHT be a problem if thats not capped

the evap is gone


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (dtcaward)*

so do i need both check valve and break booster to fix the sound? or just buy the break booster and it will fix it to?


----------



## Haagendaz (May 12, 2009)

how do i get rid of the vac resivoir while making my car smog legal for CA? noob ? so shoot me


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Haagendaz)*

The vac reservoir has nothing to do with emissions directly. It will still work fine. The reservoir allows vac to open your DV if the ECU nanny sees too much boost, but it can also pull back with the N75 and throttle body. The inspection stations shouldn't care about that part, and if they do just hold onto it and reinstall before inspection.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Andaloons)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Andaloons* »_
That line goes down to the TIP which is the metal pipe that attaches directly to the turbo and up to the accordion rubber pipe with the MAF on the end. It's probably hard to get to. You must make sure and cap it or you will have a serious leak - opening to intake.

_Modified by Andaloons at 1:27 PM 8-27-2009_

Is this what you speak of? And if so, I basically have to cap off both ends of where the hose would be?







How do I cap it exactly? What do I use? I just use those small caps for vac hoses eh?
I dunno, looks very different from the OPs pics







BTW, I don't plan to do PCV or EVAP just yet.. Take this into consideration if need be. 

















_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 6:01 AM 8-27-2009_


_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 6:14 AM 8-27-2009_


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

dude that is your wastegate. if you dont have that hooked into your n75 or a boost controller your ****ing up the whole system of the car... thats not a vac source for something..... maybe you should read up a bit on these cars some more...


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

and the break booster is mounted on your firewall. you need that check valve inline of the system to make it work


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

eh I feel stupid







. I'm pretty sure then after all this ordeal this is what you guys are referring to?









_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_and the break booster is mounted on your firewall. you need that check valve inline of the system to make it work

can you elaborate on that?


_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 7:44 AM 8-27-2009_


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

im having troble with boost i feel as the dv is holding wide open when on the gas. i have the vac line on the bottom of the intake. to run the dv should i put a check vale in?


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (dtcaward)*

this is my set up still looks like a mess to me


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

that thing u have circled i nthat picture is what we are talking about. not that thing on your wastegate on the turbo.... 
also the big giant round thing on the firewall just behind your mater cylinder of the break pedal is your break booster... there is a line that goes to that and runs to the 1/2 port on the side of your manifold. that small black piece you circled in a couple posts back is a check valve, it needs to be installed in the correct manner, there is a arrow on the piece that says either towards manifold or break booster. without that you may get a boost leak as well as no breaks on power... also if you have the port on your waste gate plugged or plumed in correctly it will most likely jsut open up and not let the turbo spool or build boost


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nukinfutz* »_that thing u have circled i nthat picture is what we are talking about. not that thing on your wastegate on the turbo.... 
also the big giant round thing on the firewall just behind your mater cylinder of the break pedal is your break booster... there is a line that goes to that and runs to the 1/2 port on the side of your manifold. that small black piece you circled in a couple posts back is a check valve, it needs to be installed in the correct manner, there is a arrow on the piece that says either towards manifold or break booster. without that you may get a boost leak as well as no breaks on power... also if you have the port on your waste gate plugged or plumed in correctly it will most likely jsut open up and not let the turbo spool or build boost

Before I go on, I would first like to thank you for your willingness to help, and the patience you have displayed in the face of my indefinite ignorance... 
...now, I think there's a misunderstanding, I haven't removed the EVAP or PCV systems yet (I don't plan to for a while).. the guy who circled the check valve is someone else... just to clarify, right now everything else's 100% stock, I've only removed the N249 and SAI stuff as the original post instructed, except of course routing that line from the TIP to the mani. 
The reason why I'm confused is because I don't have any vac sources open on the mani, I just had that small one that connected to the N249 and had to be connected to the DV (The original poster of this DIY explains that I had to cut another vac line from the mani in order to pull out the hardlines, but I didn't have to, it just came out fine after cutting the 4 lines and removing the vac reservoir and combi valve - which I blocked off btw..) All other lines are accounted for. So, if I cut the line going to the TIP, where do I route it to? And what of the other end of the TIP line that I cut??










_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 12:48 PM 8-27-2009_


----------



## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

also if you have the port on your waste gate plugged or plumed in correctly it will most likely jsut open up and not let the turbo spool or build boost[/QUOTE]

i did go out and get a check vale today i feel real stupid







but im try to see why im not getting n-e boost it feels like i the dv is all ways open


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (dtcaward)*

i have to questions 
1)until i get a better catch can could i put a little cut in one of the hoses to vent
2)what size resisitors should i get and and where can i get them(i know its been discussed before)


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (dubbin' on Jlines)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubbin’ on Jlines* »_i have to questions 
1)until i get a better catch can could i put a little cut in one of the hoses to vent
2)what size resisitors should i get and and where can i get them(i know its been discussed before)

2) The two harnesses on the N249 and the wires for the SAI pump need 330ohm/10W resistors. Don't take my word on this, but another poster told me that it doesn't have to be exactly 330ohms. I'm using 300ohms because that is all I could find. If I get CELs and codes, then I guess I should redo the resistors. 
Radioshack apparently doesn't carry them (or so I've read in this thread). Your best bet is a dedicated electrical parts store or you can order them from integrated engineering, but they're a bit expensive for what they are. I picked up mine for $0.89 a piece. 
nukinfutz is selling some too, you should PM him.


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

do nothing with that line you just plug it with something like a screw.


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

I'm running the 300ohm 10w resistors from IE and they work great. Your still going to pop a cel for the sai improper flow code, but it doesn't effect anything besides passing emissions. You have to get flashed by Eurodyne or Uni to make it 100% and there is no way around it.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (nukinfutz)*

Here's a pic of my engine bay. I found that line that comes from the TIP. It eventually comes to a T-junction. I assume then I have to make a new line to remove that T? (remember I'm the guy who isn't removing the EVAP or PCV systems yet). Please let me know if this is right.. 










_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 5:34 PM 8-28-2009_


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

bubump


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

no idea. im lost


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

are you sure that line isn't part of your EVAP system? on my AWP that line from the top of the throttle body is half the EVAP system.


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ypsetihw* »_are you sure that line isn't part of your EVAP system? on my AWP that line from the top of the throttle body is half the EVAP system. 

yeah that is part of the EVAP system. I'm not looking to remove it just yet. 
From my understanding, to finish up this SAI/N249 removal, I just have to cap the line at the TIP and then either cap the open end of the 'T' or just remove the T and make a straight connection as shown in the green highlight, from the hose coming in from the bottom-left, to the vac line on the throttle body.. *but I'm not sure*, someone please let me know...
Also, not seen in the picture, there is a check-valve between the T-junction and the line on the TIP. In the picture it is covered by the silver thermal cover thingy (the one with the 3 buttons).



_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 6:36 PM 8-28-2009_


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

so, anybody have an opinion on this?
From the TIP, there is a hose with a check-valve in-line that runs to a T-junction. This T junction seems to be part of the EVAP system. One part of the T-junction goes to a vac line on the top of the throttle body.
I've been wanting to finish this SAI/N249 delete... EVAP and PCV come after.


_Modified by veedubfreak9000 at 6:54 PM 8-30-2009_


----------



## nukinfutz (Feb 25, 2008)

dude i have no idea. why dont you jsut delete everyting at once


----------



## ypsetihw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubfreak9000* »_ either cap the open end of the 'T' or just remove the T and make a straight connection as shown in the green highlight, 

it's basically the same thing, by capping it off you're essentially creating a straight through connection. FYI this will probably cause you to throw a CEL


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

*Re: (ypsetihw)*

Yeah, this is what I ended up doing and I got a 16497/P0113 code. That straight connection I made is probably throwing off the g42 sensor on the throttle body.. once I do the EVAP removal and take that line off, the code will probably go away.
Also, I'm getting the expected SAI improper flow code
I'm also getting "17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit
P1287", 
I'm assuming then the 300ohm/10W resistors didn't work for the N249 harnesses http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
It did work for the SAI pump though, I guess I'll order 330's and try again.


----------



## dubbin' on Jlines (Sep 20, 2007)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

i still need one qestion answered 
since i dont have a catch can with big ports and a vent could i cut a small hole in the hoses to release presure


----------



## fouckhest (May 22, 2003)

*Re: (dubbin' on Jlines)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubbin’ on Jlines* »_i still need one qestion answered 
since i dont have a catch can with big ports and a vent could i cut a small hole in the hoses to release presure

you dont need to vent the lines...just run the other line back to the TIP


----------



## veedubfreak9000 (Jul 8, 2009)

quick question, the two n249 harnesses; should they be connected with a 330ohm resistor in line with each other or with two separate resistors for each harness?


----------



## The*Fall*Guy (Aug 10, 2009)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*

You need to resistor 4 things in total.
N249, ,N112, N80, and the Sai pump


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (veedubfreak9000)*


_Quote, originally posted by *veedubfreak9000* »_quick question, the two n249 harnesses; should they be connected with a 330ohm resistor in line with each other or with two separate resistors for each harness?

Separate resistors. 
On mine - I just left the solenoids plugged in and capped the ports. Works fine for me.


----------



## Rev. Longride (Jul 6, 2005)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

Used this as a loose guide for my B5.5 Passat. Just have to pull my SAI pump and slap in some resistors but all the top side isht is done!!
Thanks for the great write up and all the informative follow-up posts!
Here's what I'm rolling with now.


----------



## spoolingti02 (Jun 3, 2005)

i did some of this stuff and aswell my 2871R upgrade and have boost issues with only getting 5lbs any help please?
...neone have this problem? sumthing to do with the sai delete or 249


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (spoolingti02)*

IM'ed you on this problem.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: (Rev. Longride)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Rev. Longride* »_
Here's what I'm rolling with now.









Now that's a clean longitudinal! Nice paint work as well http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## EURidahO (Jul 10, 2006)

*FV-QR*

What is this vac line right here? I have not done the pcv edit yet but it seems to run into a cluster of lines under the intake manifold. Is it the vac source for the pcv?


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (EURidahO)*

its part of the brake booster pump. it can be deleted along with the pump too. my brakes work great with this delete and theres less to go wrong now.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *zeusenergy* »_its part of the brake booster pump. it can be deleted along with the pump too. my brakes work great with this delete and theres less to go wrong now.



do you not have a line going to your brake booster now


----------



## EURidahO (Jul 10, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

No. that small circled line. that is going into the TIP. not the long hard plastic brake booster line.


_Modified by EURidahO at 6:30 PM 9-26-2009_


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (EURidahO)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EURidahO* »_No. that small circled line. that is going into the TIP. not the long hard plastic brake booster line.

_Modified by EURidahO at 6:30 PM 9-26-2009_

Somehow saying "Long, hard and plastic" all in the same sentence just doesn't set well with me......








Yeah there's two total vac sources for the brake booster vac circuit.


----------



## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Sorry I wasn't more specific I was on my iPod.


----------



## Blancorider (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (zeusenergy)*

Thank you very much for this great post from Spain!!!!!!
He has been a great help for me.
Here some pics from mi Seat Leon 20VT quattro








Removing all, and a bigger intercooler instalation 
Before
























The stock and new intercooler








Thank you very much SAVwKO







This pic for you
















All out!!!
















New IC








AND FINALLY!!!!!!!
























And some pics in a track day!!











































_Modified by Blancorider at 7:36 AM 11-19-2009_


----------



## duke_seb (Jul 29, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

those resistors.... do you have to put them with the wires or can u just plug them into the spots in the plug itself?


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

i love the seat leons thats a bad a$s car now you need to do a BT


----------



## csd_19 (May 11, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Blancorider)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Blancorider* »_Thank you very much for this great post from Spain!!!!!!
He has been a great help for me.
Here some pics from mi Seat Leon 20VT quattro








Removing all, and a bigger intercooler instalation 
_Modified by Blancorider at 7:36 AM 11-19-2009_

You're so lucky getting a 4wd Cupra to play with, we got stiffed by VAG who only gave us the FWD in the UK....








Get a BT on her!!!!!


----------



## ranjerz (Mar 24, 2009)

*Re: (Maxpowerz)*

realllly nice write up.


----------



## media (Sep 22, 2009)

great writeup. saving for a rainy day project. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

I just finished removed my SAI, combi valve, and N249, and evap. I never got a CEL for EVAP tho...


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*Re: (The*Fall*Guy)*

did most of this all today. only one question.
i have a 03 20th gti with the awp engine. question is on my valve cover instead of just the big pcv hose coming off, i have 2. the big one, and the a smaller onethat comes off a 90* nipple. i asked sav about this and was just going to cap it and be done with it. however, after removing all the other crap, i can now see where the line runs too. i am still thinking i can cap it, but just want to run it by here to make sure. i will try and explain the pictures best i can:
where the line starts:








crap pic, but the line is coming from the top right, covering the green top coolant sensor








snakes down and leads to this:








then connects right here to the underside of the intake mani:








so what do you think?? help a brother out


----------



## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

*Re: (ericjohnston27)*

It's drawing some of the valve cover schmoot into the intake manifold to burn in combustion, another way for VW to get even cleaner emissions.
Cap that manifold and valve cover connection.


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

i also could only find 10w100ohm resistors at radio shack as before mentioned. any idea if these will work just fine or should i order somewhere else? anyone have another place to order the 330ohm ones from that dont cost me $6 a resistor???


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

highlight of my previous question:


----------



## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (ericjohnston27)*

That blue line should turn back towards the block and go left and into that L shaped breather tube coming up from block, the crankcase vent tube. That white piece is your either your PCV or a check valve.
I think you might have confused what tube is what down there, the small diameter tube coming from the valve cover and heading down there is the one going right up to the manifold in front of your red/blue lines.
The bigger tube you highlighted in red goes up to the main line/Y splitter on the side of your valve cover.
Cap the manifold tap, and cap the one on the valve cover, done. I removed all of that crap and installed a catch can. No more PCV for me.


_Modified by White Jetta at 12:23 PM 12-13-2009_


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *White Jetta* »_
I think you might have confused what tube is what down there, the small diameter tube coming from the valve cover and heading down there is the one going right up to the manifold in front of your red/blue lines.
The bigger tube you highlighted in red goes up to the main line/Y splitter on the side of your valve cover.



the line you speak of is my dv line, which is now connected to the mani. the lines i highlighted are correct. where does the blue line go?


----------



## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (ericjohnston27)*

Oh i see. The blue line goes into the L shaped crankcase pipe and then into that Y part, on into the intake from there.


----------



## RseriesGTI (Dec 13, 2009)

Ok, so I got the SAI block off plate and the SAI resistor from Integrated Ingeneering. Does anyone know where and if i can get 2 resistors for the N249??


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

*Re: (RseriesGTI)*

The resistor will work for any of the underhood stuff, but you don't need them since you can just leave the N112/N249/N80 solenoids plugged in and tucked away. You WILL get a CEL, but it will be because of improper flow in the SAI readiness codes, and you can't use a resistor to take care of that one. If you need to pass emissions you'll need to keep SAI, or you can get a tune with readiness removed (Eurodyne, APR, Unitronics)


----------



## RseriesGTI (Dec 13, 2009)

Awesome, Got everything off, Blockoff plate installed, SAI resistor installed and got the resistors for the n112,n289/n80 installed... AMAZINGLY ENOUGH, HAVENT THROWN A SINGLE CODE YET! WHOO HOO knock on wood lol


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*


----------



## RseriesGTI (Dec 13, 2009)

yes, that would be where you put the evap resistor


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

w3rd


----------



## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

*FV-QR*

GREAT DIY!!!!


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (20vGetta)*


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *derekb727* »_










cuz that really helps


----------



## will87 (May 31, 2007)

Just wondering for the PCV edit ....Where does the line from the brake booster go after the Y rubber fitting is removed of the manifold ?


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## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

i am running mine from under the manifold (the bigger port that the y was connected to before removal) and im only using one line. that way i can cap off the end of the mani to not have that big line running there. hopefully that works


----------



## dirtydumpd18t (Jan 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*

anyone source a cheaper version of the sai block off plate? i will need to do this soon seems im leaking oil from behind the combi...........


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dirtydumpd18t)*

its very easy bro. just trace the combi valve on a piece of flat steel, or aluminum at least 3/16" thick, rill the two holes, and clean up the shape with an angle grinder http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif then reus two of the shorter hex bolts that you will have left over after doing the deletes, and presto you now have a blockoff plate







then use a little permatex to seal it up aganst the head... mine took me about 15 min to make


----------



## will87 (May 31, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

What happens to the brake booster line that connects the the rubber peice connected to the intake manifold ????
Need to know this guys can anybody help !!!


_Modified by will87 at 12:32 PM 1-3-2010_


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (will87)*

You can connect that brake booster line to ANY port on the intake manifold. Just MAKE SURE you leave a one-way valve on the brake booster. You want ONLY vacuum in the brake booster.


----------



## will87 (May 31, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Andaloons)*

OKay perfect thanks alot .....So basically run a direct line from the intake manifold right into the brake booster ?....Nothing else taped into that line !....Correct me if im wrong but I think that sounds right !!!


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

there are originally 2 one ways on the booster line. i took one off, i am only using one. thats do-able?


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (ericjohnston27)*

I left both on mine. I'm sure it would be fine with just one. I didn't realize that there was another one up higher on the brake booster line, otherwise I would have removed the one closer to the mani. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dirtydumpd18t (Jan 27, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_its very easy bro. just trace the combi valve on a piece of flat steel, or aluminum at least 3/16" thick, rill the two holes, and clean up the shape with an angle grinder http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif then reus two of the shorter hex bolts that you will have left over after doing the deletes, and presto you now have a blockoff plate







then use a little permatex to seal it up aganst the head... mine took me about 15 min to make








 kinda what i was thinking, glad to know it works out ok







BTW, you still got that build goin?


----------



## 05GTIMarine (Nov 11, 2008)

is there a shooping list i can use before doing this to my car.


----------



## thatAstock18T (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (RseriesGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RseriesGTI* »_yes, that would be where you put the evap resistor

I put the resistor in mine and i still get an improper flow CEL has anyone found away around this?


----------



## Elvir2 (Nov 19, 2007)

*Re: (thatAstock18T)*

What is the vacuum readings at idle on peoples cars that have removed all the components.

Elvir


----------



## 8valvesofFURY (Dec 31, 2006)

*Re: (05GTIMarine)*


_Quote, originally posted by *05GTIMarine* »_is there a shooping list i can use before doing this to my car.

get a chipped by eurodyne or uni and a block off plate from IE.
^ correct way.


----------



## BlaktOut02 (Sep 4, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Great DIY! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks SAVwKO!


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (Elvir2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Elvir2* »_
What is the vacuum readings at idle on peoples cars that have removed all the components.

Elvir


I was getting 20 elvir, Even before the delete i was around the same


----------



## vrrrrr (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

my tern


----------



## 8valvesofFURY (Dec 31, 2006)

I just installed the 3 resistors and my CEL went away!


----------



## will87 (May 31, 2007)

*Re: (8valvesofFURY)*

What size plastis "T" and brass reducer are you guys using for the PCV edit and also where did you find the parts from ???? need to know this asap !!
thanks guys !


----------



## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: (will87)*

I am curious for this too.


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (Henni)*

Measure everything and hit up Lowe's or Home Depot in the plumbing department.


----------



## 8valvesofFURY (Dec 31, 2006)

Lol, I just bring it in and compair parts and make sure it fits. anyone have any evap delete pics? im still considering that.


----------



## jerseyrider (May 28, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

Awesome writeup. Just one question.. What does this accomplish besides you don't have to look at it anymore? Can someone explain what all of these systems are for? I know some are probably useless(emissions) but I refuse to believe that VW would put all of this under the hood if it wasn't useful. I'm asking because I'm doing an engine swap and a few of these lines were cut by a friend who was helping me.


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (jerseyrider)*

anyone run into coldstart issues at start up with this done?
ive been running everything deleted, but since it has become quite cold, i have some heavy hesitations at start up, then after the car has went through the warm up and idle has settled, 10 seconds of light driving the car is fine...
any insight? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif im running the n112 and n249 plugged in electronically, but thats it. air pump has no resistor as well as evap.


----------



## MikeD86 (Jan 21, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

bump for good info


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (MikeD86)*

haha!!


----------



## water&air (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Rideforlife_33)*

you forgot to plug 2 ports.


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (water&air)*

huh?


----------



## water&air (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Rideforlife_33)*

those two big holes in your ears must be causing a huge vac leak.


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (water&air)*

haha!!


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Rideforlife_33)*

im looking to do this very shortly but want to make sure I have all the necessary things before I rip into my car. After doing this what size vac lines will I need to buy in order to get everything buttoned back up?


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SkootySkoo)*

There are like 4 different sizes if you plan on installing a catch can as well. Its really easy to do it all.


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Rideforlife_33)*

ive got some 3/4s line for my pcv delete....gonna just vent it for the time being because I am broke. what are the other sizes I may need?


----------



## technician (Jun 29, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SkootySkoo)*

Im wondering how many people are removing the N112 and putting a resistor in? Also I'm wondering why you would use a 300 ohm resistor when those valves and solenoids normally operate at 25-30 ohms. Any insight would be helpful.


----------



## HereTryThis (Feb 2, 2008)

Alright i couldnt find it in this thread but where do you exactly put the resistors? Inline one wire? Cut off connector and put between the 2 wires? im stumped...


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: (HereTryThis)*

You expose the wires there are two ends to a resistor one end per wire. You put one end of the resistor on one wire and the other end on the other wire and then tape it all up. I did that with about one or two of mine. My friends dad is a electrician and he came up with a cool idea for the resistors and basically made them a plug in.


----------



## HereTryThis (Feb 2, 2008)

*Re: (Rideforlife_33)*

Awesome! thanks for clearing that up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: (HereTryThis)*

Or if you get an update to your UNI BT file, then you don't even need to plug in, nor have a resistor!! I have NOTHING plugged in or spliced and I have absolutely no codes


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dirtydumpd18t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dirtydumpd18t* »_anyone source a cheaper version of the sai block off plate? i will need to do this soon seems im leaking oil from behind the combi...........

my mechanic got mine from forge... don't know how that compares price-wise to IE....


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: (Elvir2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Elvir2* »_
What is the vacuum readings at idle on peoples cars that have removed all the components.

Elvir



same as before.


----------



## Rideforlife_33 (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (RvGrnGTI)*

There is someone on vortex who had like 5 of them made. I purchased one for like $15 and it works fine!


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Rideforlife_33)*

I did my PCV/Catch can stuff awhile ago. Removed the actual SAI myself, he my mechanic remove the other sai component and he installed the block-off plate. He said it was good that I made him do it, said it made installing my valve cover gasket a bit easier. Just today I decided to do my EVAP right as I got home from work. Actual time I spent working on the removal of the EVAP was 20 minutes. Here's all the stuff going in garbage!!!!

















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Your soul is mine mortal!


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (gdoggmoney)*








I think its hilarious how ppl are posting self portraits. look what i started.


----------



## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

I've read through too many pages but I was wondering what codes everyone is getting when they remove all of this. So far i get a P0444, and a P0412. Is the P0412 code the improper flow code that won't go away?


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (slapshot591)*


_Quote, originally posted by *slapshot591* »_I've read through too many pages but I was wondering what codes everyone is getting when they remove all of this. So far i get a P0444, and a P0412. Is the P0412 code the improper flow code that won't go away?


None.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (RvGrnGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RvGrnGTI* »_

None.

BS







The only way to avoid the imprope flow code is with a flash


----------



## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (RvGrnGTI)*

I just picked up some 10w 330ohm resistors from VEC (Virginia Electronic Components) here in Lynchburg, VA for $1.52 for 2 in a package. 
Don't call Radio Shack. They do not have them.
If anyone is looking for these I don't suggest paying $5.99 per resistor that some of the companies are charging for them. Just look locally. 
If you have that much trouble finding them let me know.


----------



## RvGrnGTI (Apr 13, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_
BS







The only way to avoid the imprope flow code is with a flash









Exactly


----------



## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (RvGrnGTI)*

I figured I'd need a reflash. What's the code for the improper flow, anyone know? I mean, someone HAS to know.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (jerseyrider)*

i plan on doing all this stuff on my "new" tt225.
id like to keep the stock programming but get the ecu flassed so nothing is noticed. i hate all that crap in there.
on my mk3 i cut out everything not needed including power steering fluid. (bought euro manual setup).


----------



## lazyozzygli (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

bump


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *lazyozzygli* »_bump


why do that


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weenerdog3443* »_
why do that

yourself


----------



## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (speed51133!)*

the hose with the white plastic over it (top right) were those that hose go? i got mine messed up as i labelled them just incase i missed something and i labelled it that it went to the wastegate but that cant be. i just want to make sure i have everything plugged up right.
after removing all this the only real thing that you have removed a vac source to is the DV right?
anyhelp?!?!


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (alextjoe)*

That hose with the white cover goes to the TIP. 
And, yes you have removed a vac source for the DV. Run the DV straight to the intake manifold.


----------



## travisjb (May 25, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Henni)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Henni* »_I just picked up some 10w 330ohm resistors from VEC (Virginia Electronic Components) here in Lynchburg, VA for $1.52 for 2 in a package. 

I got them shipped for $65. for 100 of them







send me a pm if you want one with a block off plate.


----------



## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Andaloons)*

TIP is the turbo inlet pipe?
does that vaccum need to be there or can be deleted aswell?!


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

i think that one gets deleted if i remember correct...


----------



## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

just want to make sure..can anyone confirm that this vacuum can be deleted..it goes from TIP to what


----------



## DGAFXXX (Jan 2, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (alextjoe)*

I've done the mod, and the only thing I have on my tip is the N75 and the DV


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (DGAFXXX)*

OK.... is it just me, or has this forum become overly lazey?? People are too add to read the entire thread.. So what do they do?? MAKE IT LONGER







ITS ALREADY 30+ PAGES PEOPLE







ALL OF THE INFO YOU NEED AND MUCH MORE IS IN THERE


----------



## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

ive read the entire damn post trust me took about 45 to look for what i want and the only reason i posted is because quess what I COULDNT FIND IT go figure..ive searched for other diy on this and there are no others that cover all of it...
so i only wanted to make sure i didnt **** anything up so sorry if it was a big deal...
thanks to you guys that did help really appreciate it


----------



## will87 (May 31, 2007)

How many resitors do you need in total in order to do these deletes ?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (will87)*


_Quote, originally posted by *will87* »_How many resitors do you need in total in order to do these deletes ?
4... READ THE DAMN THREAD


----------



## will87 (May 31, 2007)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Sorry man Just wanted to make sure relaxx !
P.S Who ****t in your cornflakes this morning ?


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

I've read over this thread, all pages multiple times. I've got it all apart, including the intake mani but my head is spinning now and I need some help. I've removed EVAP, PCV and SAI. I had bought the Eurojet PCV kit and not sure if I can even use it now that i've removed all PCV. Can someone give me a quick diag of oil filter housing, TIP, DV, mani and valve cover and what connections should be there? T's reducers, all that stuff. I don't have a catch can and want to just dump to atmosphere. I have no CAT and don't care about CELs. If anyone is in the Rhode Island area, I could really use your help in person. 
The only reason I did this was I had two broken hoses in the PCV system and figured just remove it rather than replace it. Now I'm kicking myself even though i've already done the hard work, I don't know how it goes back together. I know all the info I need is in here I just need the idiots version. I work on PCs, not a mechanic







Stupid..I know...


----------



## mstrayer (Jan 29, 2005)

Chances are, unless you do some cutting and fitting you're not gonig to be able to use the PCV fix. FYI, in the future you might want to be prepared prior to ripping things apart, or have someone with you that knows whats up b/c 90% of the time you'll have to go to the store or home depot for something, god only knows what. 
You'll need a catch can, which you should already have. You'll need a SAI blockoff plate, which you should already have. Now, you'll need some form of intake manifold gasket material. You'll also need some caps or bolts/screw to plug open vacuum sources that are now exposed which will be available but not being used b/c of the removal of your items.
But just one last question, if you're not prepared, don't have anyone with you that is, and no items to perform the work, and you work on pc's not cars, why did you tear into your ride blind?
Sorry for the rant, but kudos for not being intimidated to tear into your car....good luck getting things sorted out.


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (mstrayer)*

Thanks for the rant, but I realize what I need. I already put on the blockoff plate and decided against using a catch can for now $$(which i know is possible) Bought a new manifold gasket already too. It all made sense when it was together, now that its in pieces I'm confused as to what I need and what I dont. I just need a simple diagram of where to run new vac lines to and where to cap off etc. I know i'll be capping off two of the four on the bottom of the manifold (one for FPR one for DV) It's the connection on the valve cover and the open holes on the TIP that have me confused. As well as what gets connected to the elbow off the oil filter housing. 
If I had a mechanic friend you bet your a$$ he'd be over helping me. The reason why I did this is on my own is strictly financial. I've done other work on my car before. I installed my intake, short shift, brakes, audio system, oil changes spark plugs and all that happy horse sh!t with help from this forum etc... 
Any other insight would be appreciated.


----------



## mstrayer (Jan 29, 2005)

no prob...you can't really delete the pcv system without having some sorta of catch setup for ventilation. You can hook the dv hose directly to the tip and the the fpr to the intake manifold, but there are lots of ways to organize them that might be more efficient. Anyone else feel free to chime in.....


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (mstrayer)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mstrayer* »_no prob...*you can't really delete the pcv system without having some sorta of catch setup for ventilation.* You can hook the dv hose directly to the tip and the the fpr to the intake manifold, but there are lots of ways to organize them that might be more efficient. Anyone else feel free to chime in..... 


Why is this? Isnt the purpose of the PCV to vent pressure out of the motor? The catch can is there just to catch the oil and fumes is it not? I dont see the harm in venting it into the atmosphere rather than a catch can if you arent a tree hugging hippie (It still vents built up pressure). In my g60 motor I vented the pcv to the bottom of the motor and open to atmosphere....why would the 1.8t motor be any different? Any other thoughts on this? Is a catch can a MUST? Its the one piece that I am missing because I too was just going to dump it until after rent is due.


_Modified by SkootySkoo at 3:53 PM 2-22-2010_


----------



## CABNFEVR (Oct 29, 2001)

*Re: (SkootySkoo)*

in some states/countries its not legal to vent into atmosphere and you would fail emissions inspection. you dont need a catch can you can just vent to the intake plumbing but some like to catch the crud instead of sending through the intake.


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (CABNFEVR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *CABNFEVR* »_in some states/countries its not legal to vent into atmosphere and you would fail emissions inspection. you dont need a catch can you can just vent to the intake plumbing but some like to catch the crud instead of sending through the intake.

I know its not legal.....this entire thread is not legal. Venting into the intake kind of defeats the purpose of deleting the PCV system. So a straight atmospheric vent would have no ill effects on the engine I am guessing.


----------



## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (SkootySkoo)*

Just removed ALL of this crap from my engine, idle is WAY smoother now. No more random idle stumble.


----------



## CABNFEVR (Oct 29, 2001)

*Re: (SkootySkoo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SkootySkoo* »_
I know its not legal.....this entire thread is not legal. Venting into the intake kind of defeats the purpose of deleting the PCV system. So a straight atmospheric vent would have no ill effects on the engine I am guessing. 

this thread is legal for us mk1 guys or other swaps








should not have any ill effects to engine no. We here in Canada get the the ocassional ministry of transportation spot checks on the road and we would be fined at the least for venting that way even in an emissions exempt vehicle


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

cleaned my bay up "just a bit" lol
completely different look now. thanks sav!!


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (ericjohnston27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ericjohnston27* »_cleaned my bay up "just a bit" lol
completely different look now. thanks sav!!
http://farm3.static.flickr.com...1.jpg 

Looks great with the white on blue!


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (ericjohnston27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ericjohnston27* »_cleaned my bay up "just a bit" lol
completely different look now. thanks sav!!










any input on deleting the coolant resevoir? Looks great!


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

moroso 1 1/4" inline filler with 16psi cap. just remove res. make a new stright where there was a y for the bottle line. cap where the overflow line from the bottle went. and put in the filler up by the upper rad hose. easy easy easy


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (ericjohnston27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ericjohnston27* »_moroso 1 1/4" inline filler with 16psi cap. just remove res. make a new stright where there was a y for the bottle line. cap where the overflow line from the bottle went. and put in the filler up by the upper rad hose. easy easy easy


hows it run? any cooling issues? I was thinking of doing this myself.


----------



## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

*FV-QR*

no issues, no cooling issues at all. when you cut the connection for the coolant bottle, twist the 2 wires together and youll be all set. forgot that in the first post


----------



## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (SkootySkoo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SkootySkoo* »_

any input on deleting the coolant resevoir? Looks great!

here try this http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4770851
Eric explained it well. however if you learn off of pics like me







then check it out


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

Now that i've removed all the crinkle hose, where does the line coming off my CAI go? (looks like 1/2" fuel line, before the MAF)


----------



## BlaktOut02 (Sep 4, 2009)

*Re: (papaguya)*


_Quote, originally posted by *papaguya* »_Now that i've removed all the crinkle hose, where does the line coming off my CAI go? (looks like 1/2" fuel line, before the MAF)

that goes to your sai pump. get rid of it and cap the nipple


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (BlaktOut02)*

thanks, one last question. what does the small nipple on left side of the throttle body go to now?



_Modified by papaguya at 4:23 PM 2-28-2010_


----------



## BlaktOut02 (Sep 4, 2009)

*Re: (papaguya)*

the nipple on top of the tb gets capped off. or you can use it for a boost gauge, dv, etc.


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (BlaktOut02)*

thanks again, sorry for the PM


----------



## mjulezjr88 (Jun 13, 2007)

Just did the SAI EVAP and N249 removal yesterday, I haven't put in the resistors just yet. but here's a quick question, if I put resistors on all of the above and get a reflash for the improper flow code, will I still throw cel's?


----------



## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (mjulezjr88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mjulezjr88* »_Just did the SAI EVAP and N249 removal yesterday, I haven't put in the resistors just yet. but here's a quick question, if I put resistors on all of the above and get a reflash for the improper flow code, will I still throw cel's?

what did you do with the 2 unclipped harness of the n249? i removed mine today. but i left them there. should i snip them, tie them together and tape it with some electrrical tape?


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (Dropped 20v)*

you want to put resistors between the wires on each of those harness. You cannot just tie the wires together. If you still get codes with the resistors in then just keep the sensors plugged in and tuck them away. Try it first before you cut the clips off. Once you see it work then you can cut the wires back, put some heatshrink tubing, then solder the resistors in, and cover with the heat shrink. 
I am running Euro dyne mafless software and had, evap, and all the works deleted. Im CEL free so far, knock on wood!

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view











_Modified by stealthmagic27 at 1:39 AM 3-3-2010_


----------



## mstrayer (Jan 29, 2005)

*Re: (papaguya)*


_Quote, originally posted by *papaguya* »_I've read over this thread, all pages multiple times. I've got it all apart, including the intake mani but my head is spinning now and I need some help. I've removed EVAP, PCV and SAI. I had bought the Eurojet PCV kit and not sure if I can even use it now that i've removed all PCV. Can someone give me a quick diag of oil filter housing, TIP, DV, mani and valve cover and what connections should be there? T's reducers, all that stuff. I don't have a catch can and want to just dump to atmosphere. I have no CAT and don't care about CELs. If anyone is in the Rhode Island area, I could really use your help in person. 
The only reason I did this was I had two broken hoses in the PCV system and figured just remove it rather than replace it. Now I'm kicking myself even though i've already done the hard work, I don't know how it goes back together. I know all the info I need is in here I just need the idiots version. I work on PCs, not a mechanic







Stupid..I know...



Man that bay is in dyer(sp) need of a cleanup....


----------



## mjulezjr88 (Jun 13, 2007)

*Re: (stealthmagic27)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dropped 20v* »_
what did you do with the 2 unclipped harness of the n249? i removed mine today. but i left them there. should i snip them, tie them together and tape it with some electrrical tape?

As of right now mine are just covered in electircal tape so salt and **** doesn't get into them. And I wouldn't snip them anytime soon.

_Quote, originally posted by *stealthmagic27* »_you want to put resistors between the wires on each of those harness. You cannot just tie the wires together. If you still get codes with the resistors in then just keep the sensors plugged in and tuck them away. Try it first before you cut the clips off. Once you see it work then you can cut the wires back, put some heatshrink tubing, then solder the resistors in, and cover with the heat shrink. 
I am running Euro dyne mafless software and had, evap, and all the works deleted. Im CEL free so far, knock on wood!

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










_Modified by stealthmagic27 at 1:39 AM 3-3-2010_

That's what I figured I'd do. Thanks for the input.


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

Where does this get connected to? It's not the wastegate.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (papaguya)*

That's probably the line that connects to the nipple right before the turbo inlet. It supplies vacuum to the EVAP system. Pull the line and put a cap over the port.


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (Savvv)*

could somebody pleae tell me what this Vac Line is for? I circled it in red...may be a bit hard to see. Its the hook shaped hardline.











_Modified by SkootySkoo at 12:49 AM 3-7-2010_


----------



## Andy8 (Dec 7, 2007)

when doing these deletes what are you guys plugging your tip with when removing the pcv component and the brake booster valve port?


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (Andy8)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SkootySkoo* »_could somebody pleae tell me what this Vac Line is for? I circled it in red...may be a bit hard to see. Its the hook shaped hardline.
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...9.jpg

Should be a PCV vac line that ties into the TIP near the top. The AWD and possibly AWW motors didn't have this, but AWP's do. Maybe the AWW's did too can't remember when the cutoff was.

_Quote, originally posted by *Andy8* »_when doing these deletes what are you guys plugging your tip with when removing the pcv component and the brake booster valve port?

Go to Home Depot Racing and look in the plumbing section. Should be PCV plugs of various sizes you can push in there and clamp tight.


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

my aww doesnt have it


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

Now that i've got all this done i'm having a lot of fluttering and stuttering at WOT and low RPM, like a vac leak. I did not put any resistors in, is there one is particular that NEEDS to be installed or should I be hunting down a vac leak??


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (papaguya)*

Do you still have the sensors plugged into the harnesses? not connected with any tubing just plugged in?


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (stealthmagic27)*

Both sensors in the front of the engine on the bracket are connected just no tubing. 
Able to run diag during lunch. Here's what I got: Keep in mind I have no CAT, EVAP, SAI etc. No rear O2 blockoff.
11 Faults Found:
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold 
P0420 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected 
P0301 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected 
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected 
P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected. 
P0507 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean 
P1136 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected 
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High 
P0238 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit 
P1426 - 35-00 - - 
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High 
P0113 - 35-00 - - 
One thought, when running new tubing from oil filter housing to valve cover pcv etc, i reused a t-type OEM piece. Maybe this is a check valve? I used the two big ports for 3/4 and capped off a smaller output and it had a green nipple on it. Ring any bells??? Thanks for everyones continued help.






















Part I used is circled in red. Something tells me THATS the problem.

_Modified by papaguya at 10:01 AM 3-8-2010_
_Modified by papaguya at 10:23 AM 3-8-2010_


_Modified by papaguya at 11:03 AM 3-8-2010_


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (papaguya)*

yea take that sucker out of there, put resistors on the sai harness and evap. and then try again. If you need to temporarily just get little breather filteres for the valve cover and the crank case breather.


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (stealthmagic27)*

Cleared all the codes and did a TBA, running better but not 100%, no more bucking tho. You're saying put breathers on until i get that piece out? Whats the purpose of that? I dont have a catch can BTW, so would these filters vent to atmosphere?


_Modified by papaguya at 12:39 PM 3-8-2010_


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (papaguya)*

Thats good, i was saying to remove the tubes and put breathers directly on the valve cover and crank case hose. But its the same as you have it now running to atmosphere. You just wanna take that T that you have there now and get a regular one. I'm not 100% if thats a check valve or not but it looks like it would be one.


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (stealthmagic27)*

as far as venting to the atmosphere, i'm not positive that I am. Everything is connected somewhere with no hoses going to the ground. It goes back through the system . After reading on how PCV systems work, I think I am just recirculating air etc round and round and not getting fresh air to get all the crap (blow-by) out. 
I can draw up a little diagram of how it's all hooked up if that would help. I just want to know that I'm not going to destroy my engine...


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (papaguya)*

Yea see if you can draw up a quick diagram and post it up or pm me with it


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (stealthmagic27)*


So from the oil filter housing up to the valve cover and PCV valve. FPR and DV running off two small ports under manifold and manifold going the the brake booster.


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (Savvv)*



Savvv said:


> Should be a PCV vac line that ties into the TIP near the top. The AWD and possibly AWW motors didn't have this, but AWP's do. Maybe the AWW's did too can't remember when the cutoff was.
> QUOTE]
> Thank you. I have the line capped off but I wanted to remove it completely. I didnt take my intake mani off when doing this so I guess thats my next step esp since I have this NS Power Gasket sitting next to me.


----------



## boostgti2003 (Jun 30, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

what size hose did you use for the catch can


----------



## CT.WREKT-1 (Jan 25, 2006)

1.8t pcv system sucks arse. you really need it to have some serious high flow capabilites. A quick way to test... run car and light idle a min or so. undo your oil fill cap. now you can determine with the cap or your hand....Building pressure means your system is not flowing enough, hence building crank pressure and making a smokey/oiley exhaust. If you use filters-check clean or replace often. the oil/water coming out clogs them up quick. catch can is best option, make sure the hosing is like 3/4 heater tubing and decent to hold oil vapor...that **** chews up plastics an rubbers quick.


----------



## dubbin_boho (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: (CT.WREKT-1)*

did this last week


----------



## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (dubbin_boho)*

i removed the N249 brackt last week and i unclipped the 2 harness's. does anyone know if i need to, or where i need to put resistors on those 2 harness's if needed? ill be using 330 ohm 10 watt.


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (Dropped 20v)*

Heres a link for the resistors http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://www.parts-express.com/p...6-330


----------



## alextjoe (Aug 7, 2008)

so i just ordered the resistors..so just to make sure about the install..
obviously very simply just want to make sure.
orientation of resistor does not matter.
cut the connector off
solder wires to resistor.
tape up
and that its?!??!!?!?


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: (alextjoe)*

That sounds like it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
IF you want keep the harnesses on at first just stick the resistors in and check to see if they're doing the job


----------



## Andy8 (Dec 7, 2007)

Wen removing the Y valve that goes to the tip and to the y in the brake booster hose do I need to add my own check valve because it looks like there's 2 black ones already on that line...one rite off the side of the intake manifold and one closer to the booster?


----------



## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: (Andy8)*

Just keep at least one of the OEM ones in there if you decide to remove the hard plastic tubing and replace with hose. I just kept it and attached my own hose from the mani and left the valve closet to the firewall.


----------



## Andy8 (Dec 7, 2007)

Oo ok cool I left both in and just added a piece from the manifold check valve to the hard line to delete the Y hose I just wanted to make sure they were in fact check valves


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: (Andy8)*

hey guys i just removed the n249 and that stuff and the sai..i unplugged my sai and drove the car for a few days and didnt get a cel but then it just came on..i dont have resistors on any of the 3 plugs yet and my car is running wierd at idle and not building boost right...but the bov def sounds like its working better and more responsive..i have a couple questions about the 2 new vac lines that i have to run..i ran one from the top of my TIP to the hardline that runs across the top of the intake manifold thats welded to the hard coolant line..and then i ran one from the top of my BOV to that little nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold...sound about right?? thanks alot


----------



## EUROmullet18T (Mar 13, 2010)

nice thread, i cant wait to start this once it warms up. can anyone recommend a good catch can?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (EUROmullet18T)*

its like reccomending a girlfriend.. doesnt matter as long as you like her/it..
I run the 034 vented can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

alright guys...can you please help me out..i took the 249 stuff and sai off and didnt put any resistors on any of the 3..the cel comes on and i get 
P0412-Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "A" Circuit 
P1287-Boost Pressure Control Valve: Open Circuit 
but those arent the codes that the forum said i should have gotten..but can resistors cure those? 
and i drove it like that and now it boosted alot smoother but when i planted the throttle after a hard shift it just fluttered for a couple seconds then kicked in...is that most likely cause of those codes?


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *rickross667* »_alright guys...can you please help me out..i took the 249 stuff and sai off and didnt put any resistors on any of the 3..the cel comes on and i get 
P0412-Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "A" Circuit 
P1287-Boost Pressure Control Valve: Open Circuit 
but those arent the codes that the forum said i should have gotten..but can resistors cure those? 
and i drove it like that and now it boosted alot smoother but when i planted the throttle after a hard shift it just fluttered for a couple seconds then kicked in...is that most likely cause of those codes?


the second code sounds like one for the n249 or n75 valve.. do you have the n75 hooked up still.... as for the flutter i wouldnt think that it would be caused by it sounds more like a real small boost leak somewhere... throw some resistors on and see what happens


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## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

yea the n75 is hooked up electronically but not with any hoses because i have a ebc...but i hooked the n249 and n112 back up just electronically and drove it once and didnt get any codes but it still ran like ****..so im gonna get some resistors and then try it again...ill let ya know how it goes..thanks alot


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*

im just going to take a quick pic of my engine bay so you can see what i did because im not sure if i routed the stuff right


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*

http://s1017.photobucket.com/a...ss667/
heres a few pics of the engine bay and where i have the houses routes..can someone just confirm if its about right please..thanks


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *rickross667* »_http://s1017.photobucket.com/a...ss667/
heres a few pics of the engine bay and where i have the houses routes..can someone just confirm if its about right please..thanks


whats the hose you have coming off the TIP going to... also why dont you do a catch can and edit your pcv system clean it up a bit


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

if i remember correct that hardline that runs accross to your evap system... might be part of the problem right there... you can run it off one of the ports on the manifold with one of the check valves in place... might help a lil bit


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## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

yea im still workin on it im going to do the evap and pcv next..but the one that is comming off the TIP is going to the hardline that runs across the intake manifold parallel with the hard coolant line..on the otherside of the hardline it connects to the hose that runs to the top of the throttle body which i think is evap related? correct me if im wrong


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*

scratch that i just took the evap off so i didnt even need that hose anymore..so i blocked off the hose on the TIP and then blocked off the nipple on the throttle body..and removed the evap..


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

run any better?


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

no not at all..i cant figure it out..im gonna do a pressure test on all the boost lines see if there are any leaks..and i kinda with a had a dv instead of a bov..but idk


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*

i just saw a big black spot looks like a bunch of carbon under the exhaust..it was sitting in my garage and i revved it up a few times then let it idle for a bit..and i just saw that big black spot..it always used to do that then it went away now the rough idle and black spot is back again..what could that be from


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*

is there any way i can the the pcv edit without the catchcan?


----------



## supersoaker50 (Aug 4, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*

the way i did my pcv system is simple, however I am wondering if it is proper. 
basically, I have the OEM line from the oil cooler to the valvecover and then directly to th turbo inlet pipe. Its all the oem parts as I had an ebay catchcan and could not stand the crap quality. 
Is this safe for the car? as its taking the crankcase vent to the v/c and going back to tip. No vacuum lines or anything and all others are capped off.


----------



## rickross667 (May 12, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (supersoaker50)*

do you have a T in there somwhere so the TIP is the vacume source for both the v/c and the OFH? if so i think it should work but thats gonna put alot of oil and stuff in your TIP which is where the catch can comes in...but if you dont care then it should work i believe... someone please help me out here and correct me if im wrong


----------



## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rickross667* »_is there any way i can the the pcv edit without the catchcan? 

I am using 3/4 line and dumping it to the bottom of my motor. No need for a catch can really, but dont tell EPA







EEEEEEEEEEEEEPAAA EEEEEEEEEEPAAAAAAAAAAAA!


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (SkootySkoo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SkootySkoo* »_but dont tell EPA







EEEEEEEEEEEEEPAAA EEEEEEEEEEPAAAAAAAAAAAA!


----------



## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (rickross667)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rickross667* »_is there any way i can the the pcv edit without the catchcan? 

i personally wouldnt. the point of the catch can is to suck in all that bad oil and condensation. if you dont want to spend $100+ on a 42dd catch can then go to ebay and search for catch cans. they have every color in the rainbow pretty much. their cheap as he11 too. $30 shipped is great. but you will need to purchase new hose from your local auto parts store, some hose clamps, and a brass t fitting. 
if you need any help on how to install it or any questions lmk willing to help out with what i can http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## stealthmagic27 (Apr 22, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Dropped 20v)*

Catch cans really are not "sucking" anything out of the system, well, they way most people have them hooked up anyways. They're just pretty much holding the crap so you don't route it back it. The proper way would be to route the can back into the intake or exhaust section this will help pull the fumes out and it will still be trapping oil mists/condensation...
The valve cover exit, and the crank case breather hose if you remove the hoses on them you will feel air pushing out obviously. So if you have something pulling at the same time your expelling more fumes, quicker.


----------



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (igotaprestent4u)*

Anyone in south florida that can do a delete for me?


----------



## Tommy Verrochi (Jul 20, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SAVwKO)*

I took off my n249 valve tonight. although i just plugged the lines i left my DV alone, all the vac lines runnig off the dv are untoughed. Did i completly mess this up?
If anyone could reply soon that would be awesome because i have to drive the car to school tomorow

_Modified by Tommy Verrochi at 8:21 PM 3-22-2010_


_Modified by Tommy Verrochi at 8:34 PM 3-22-2010_


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Tommy Verrochi)*

dv should be hooked up to the IM direct... read the WHOLE thread.. well ignore the last 50 pages or so.. its just other guys asking questions that are already answered in the thread







just sayin


----------



## Tommy Verrochi (Jul 20, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_dv should be hooked up to the IM direct... read the WHOLE thread.. well ignore the last 50 pages or so.. its just other guys asking questions that are already answered in the thread







just sayin









word so i need to get a peice of vac line to plug into that port on the bottom of the intake mani? i just have that port cpped right now.
This is all that i took off and how i have it plugged.


----------



## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

What wire harness goes to the n112? and which harness gets the resistor?
Yellow and blue or yellow/blue and orange?
engine code AWW


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Tommy Verrochi)*

everything is answered in the thread... and you resistor off ALL of the plugs you have leftover a total of 4.just run a line straight to the dv from the intake mani.. whatever port you wish to use...
PLEASE READ THE THREAD.......THIS IS TURNING INTO THE 1.8T FORUMS VERSION OF "THE STANCE THREAD"


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## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

i need to keep the n112 to pass emisions.
if you know the answer why cant you just tell me


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## papaguya (Nov 26, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Tommy Verrochi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Tommy Verrochi* »_
word so i need to get a peice of vac line to plug into that port on the bottom of the intake mani? i just have that port cpped right now.
This is all that i took off and how i have it plugged.









Don't tell me that braided line is capped...thats for the FPR. Can we see a pic from further away to see the whole bay???


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (papaguya)*

lol nice catch. at first i assumed it was for his n249 but it clearly isn't coming off the manifold port, it's coming from up above. oopsydaisies.


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## Tommy Verrochi (Jul 20, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Savvv)*

Nooo, im pretty sure it not from my FPR. But here are those pictures.
















The braided line runs to the n112 


_Modified by Tommy Verrochi at 3:14 PM 3-23-2010_


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubinsincuwereindiapers* »_everything is answered in the thread... and you resistor off ALL of the plugs you have leftover a total of 4.just run a line straight to the dv from the intake mani.. whatever port you wish to use...
PLEASE READ THE THREAD.......THIS IS TURNING INTO THE 1.8T FORUMS VERSION OF "THE STANCE THREAD"









It's a lost cause, Brother.


----------



## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Andaloons)*

i must admit, ive read the complete DIY probably 10 times, and even though he explains everything in detail, i just feel like there are a few things the way he explains them that could be misconstrued. i myself havent done this yet but im going to attempt it. im nervous because there are soo many hoses there that he doesnt specify what to do with them.


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## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Evenodds20* »_i must admit, ive read the complete DIY probably 10 times, and even though he explains everything in detail, i just feel like there are a few things the way he explains them that could be misconstrued. i myself havent done this yet but im going to attempt it. im nervous because there are soo many hoses there that he doesnt specify what to do with them.

Once you get under the hood and start working everything makes more sense. Its hard to visualize when the motor is covering everything you should be looking at. Once you start going piece by piece it will make all the sense in the world. Just go one hose at a time and follow it to where it ends. Your working with the vac system, and that consists of your intake manifold and your intake itself...there are no surprises in your engine bay..... just crap you dont need








If you are still truly nervous about doing this than you have other options.
A. Leave it be
B. Have Somebody Do It For You
C. Read More...Read More.....Read More (know what each item does and how it does it)


_Modified by SkootySkoo at 9:42 PM 3-30-2010_


----------



## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SkootySkoo)*

yeah ill probably read it again. ive been around those pieces quite a few times in the past, doing the alternator, starter, and ultimate timing belt diy. ill just keep reading about it and maybe ill start ripping things out so i cant turn back.


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*

Once you do it you will feel much more comfortable with your engine bay. I even plugged a few things back in and routed a vacuum source for the EVAP to the black box on top of the valve cover to pass emissions.








Now I'm back to simple, but not so clean.


----------



## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Andaloons)*

the diy is just confusing the hell out of me. if i cut every hose that he says cut, and remove every screw and bracket and pump and valve that he says to remove, how many hoses will i have just sitting there opened and unplugged? what do i need to go buy prior to cutting these things? i dont want to start ripping things off and figure out that i need a plug or cap and cant get my car running to go get it.


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*

I did not cut any hoses. I simply pulled clips and keep all the parts in a box just in case I needed them. I also purchased a pack of various vacuum caps at the local auto parts store - they come in VERY handy.


----------



## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Andaloons)*

ok well that helps a little. im just going to go start taking stuff off. ill be back in an hour to post up.


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Evenodds20* »_the diy is just confusing the hell out of me. if i cut every hose that he says cut, and remove every screw and bracket and pump and valve that he says to remove, how many hoses will i have just sitting there opened and unplugged? what do i need to go buy prior to cutting these things? i dont want to start ripping things off and figure out that i need a plug or cap and cant get my car running to go get it.

If you're really that unsure of it...I urge you to hold off. I might get myself a GoPro HD cam for this summer and do a video DIY of this process if I can find a car locally. I've been wanting to do one (or more) for quite some time...just not easy to find an affordable camera to wear on your head that gives legit quality imaging.
Hang tight.


----------



## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Savvv)*

yeah im pretty unsure of it. mainly because i have next to no supplies, i want it done tonight, and need the car running by 7 am tomorrow morning. ive dont the alternator, starter, intake, and timing DIY. i like to think ive tackled some pretty decent jobs. but for some reason, taking off all these hoses just doesnt sit well with me right now. ive probably read this diy 12 times now, and its just not clicking. i think i would feel more comfortable with someone with equal knowledge to help tackle it.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Savvv)*

Savvv, maybe we could work together on this. My master kits will be ready to ship any day now. Im just missing my step by step photo guide. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4800680


----------



## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (nstevic01)*

I was thinking of putting together a master kit exactly like that. I just needed to know all the required parts to do so. my thinking is that if there is a kit that will totally get you up and running and a complete and easy to understand DIY, more people who are less than knowledgeable about EVERY component they are pulling off would be more apt to pull these things off in confidence. this is my problem. im not 100% certain why im pulling this off or capping that off and as a result, wont be sure that i havent missed something when i go to button everything up. thanks for building the kit. maybe a specs list would be good as well however, that may hinder your sales of the master and basic kits! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## The crow (Apr 22, 2009)

the mine done. Seat Leon


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## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: (The crow)*

that looks pretty good. but it doesnt really give a whole lot of info on what we need to pull of and what needs to stay and be plugged. thats what im after.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*

After about 5 or 10 of these I will probably share the details. I just wanted to see if these were marketable. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (nstevic01)*

i know they are marketable. in fact, i wouldnt mind helping you assemble and distribute these. PM me or email me at [email protected] if your interested in taking it to the next level.


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## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*

also i think there is R&D and improvement that we can do.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Evenodds20)*

Email sent


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## theGo (Aug 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (nstevic01)*

can this be done yet for emission cars ? meaning no cels? last i checked there was still a couple cels that nobody could fix (i don't feel like going through all 30 something pages for nothing)


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (theGo)*

It all depends on if you are chipped, and who its by. Most software can eliminate the CEL from the Cat, like Revo 2. There are others out there, Uni I think, that have coding to remove the SAI, N249, and EVAP related CEL's.


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## theGo (Aug 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (nstevic01)*

assuming the improper flow is a sai related cel ... thank you for that by the way


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (theGo)*

I have Revo 2, after this mod, the only CEL I get is for improper flow for the EVAP.


----------



## RobClubley (Jul 15, 2006)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (nstevic01)*

Skoda Octavia vRS 1.8t AUQ
Work so far..
SAI removal: http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V...l.htm
N249 Removal: http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V...l.htm
Evap simplification: http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V...y.htm
More info on the car: http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (RobClubley)*

What size hose would I use to run from the DV to the intake Mani??


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aforsberg* »_What size hose would I use to run from the DV to the intake Mani??


Cut a small piece off and take it into your local auto supply store and match it up!


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (Andaloons)*

Good Idea, However I think I am going to do the colored theme (Blue). Don't know, would the auto store have color hoses/tubing?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*

you want one of us to drive there for you and check??


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

No you can call them for me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







. Nah I called them and as I figured they do not have colored hoses. 
Any suggestions on where to get colored ones? Besides "google it".. Because yes I have found some, but what i am wondering is what are people using?


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## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aforsberg* »_No you can call them for me http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







. Nah I called them and as I figured they do not have colored hoses. 
Any suggestions on where to get colored ones? Besides "google it".. Because yes I have found some, but what i am wondering is what are people using?









http://www.siliconehose.com/


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (SkootySkoo)*

What size hose is it from the DV valve to the Intake?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*

jesus... go out there and measure the fackin thing.. This is getting ridiculous.. What started out as a very complete, informative thread has turned into a circus.. 37 fackin pages of guys who are too fackin lazy to either..
(A) read the WHOLE fackin thing
or..
(B) take the time to answer their own damned questions...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<THERE IS NOTHING THAT CAN BE ASKED THAT IS RELEVANT TO THIS THREAD THAT IS NOT ANSWERED MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE LAST 37 FACKIN PAGES>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

THIS IS A TECHNICAL FORUM................. YOU LAZY FACKS HAVE TURNED THIS INTO A TECHNICAL FORUM PARODY OF>>*"the stance thread"*


----------



## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

Chill the hell out.. Goddamn. I can say it again... I am ORDERING the hoses ONLINE. No store to go compare to. Just asking. Why the hell does it matter if I ask a simple question. Someone or anyone that has done this delete would know, so i am just asking. 
Think about stuff before you type it *******


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*

And for your information, I have read every single page. Hours of reading. No hose sizes anywhere. Get readin


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

and like he said go out there and measure it 4 mm should work tho if i remember correct...


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## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (weenerdog3443)*

Didn't know if measuring it called for measuring the INSIDE (hole) or the outside diameter of the tube. Thinking now, DUH it is the inside. Haha. Im 16 and this is the first time I have ever done something like this. Anyway for an update the SAI is out, N249's out, Blockoff plates in. Looks nice. 
One last question...
Running a vachose from the DV to the open port under the intake was easy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
However running a hose from the underside of the TIP to the intake....

_Quote, originally posted by *SAVwKO* »_Now, there is a vac line that runs into those hardlines and also goes down to the bottom of your turbo inlet hose/pipe. Cut that line off.

I am confused as to how far down the vac connection is on the TIP??? I mean I have followed that hose I cut as far down i can with my finger and It seems as if it just goes into a Galaxy of turbo lines and I can't find the end. 
?? 
Thanks guys


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aforsberg* »_Chill the hell out.. Goddamn. I can say it again... I am ORDERING the hoses ONLINE. No store to go compare to. Just asking. Why the hell does it matter if I ask a simple question. Someone or anyone that has done this delete would know, so i am just asking. 
Think about stuff before you type it *******
IVE DONE IT... Whats the matter?? you cant go out there and measure the inside diameter of a hose?? Cmon dude... I dont mind helpin guys out, as I do it constantly. But this thread is getting ridiculous.. Your DV hose has nothing to do with this thread either.. The more guys post dumb schit, the longer the thread gets, and the harder it becomes for the next guy to navigate... Im not hatin at all, but you have to take some initiative here.. Its not like someone is going to reach through the computer screen, and do werk for you...


----------



## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

*FV-QR*

just means its time to lock and sticky it


----------



## aforsberg (Nov 11, 2009)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

dubinsincuwereindiapers, what I am asking could help people. It is a lot better then asking "Will this throw any CELS" like pages 11-35 are all about. It's a conversation, not a secrete GodFourm. Didn't know how to measure hoses now I do. If your worried about "clutter".. our arguing is clutter, now cut it out.
Wener Dog, Think your right, Just wonder if anyone has actually found the base of the hose











_Modified by aforsberg at 9:08 PM 4-15-2010_


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*

fine


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

Lower it!!


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## seagull (Jul 5, 2006)

So, the ultimate question is: Will this throw a CEL for me?
Haha.... ya I must agree--clean up (toss out) the last bunch of pages with questions that were answered 38 times, Sticky, lock it up.


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## SkootySkoo (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP (aforsberg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aforsberg* »_dubinsincuwereindiapers, what I am asking could help people. It is a lot better then asking "Will this throw any CELS" like pages 11-35 are all about. It's a conversation, not a secrete GodFourm. Didn't know how to measure hoses now I do. If your worried about "clutter".. our arguing is clutter, now cut it out.
Wener Dog, Think your right, Just wonder if anyone has actually found the base of the hose








_Modified by aforsberg at 9:08 PM 4-15-2010_

problem is that you could easily click the search button in the top right corner and search for vac. That is what I did and found every hose size that is needed. I also went to PepBoys and just stocked up on 3 feet of various size hoses since youll never know when you need them.


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## anerness (Mar 29, 2009)

Have any of the chip companies offered an option to delete the cel after these systems are deleted? Or has anyone found a way to bypass the cel? After these 4 systems have been deleted will the DV still be in the same place or will it be relocated?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (anerness)*


_Quote, originally posted by *anerness* »_Have any of the chip companies offered an option to delete the cel after these systems are deleted? Or has anyone found a way to bypass the cel? After these 4 systems have been deleted will the DV still be in the same place or will it be relocated?

Uni has a stage 2 file with the emissions deletes for $650 iirc. $50 more than just normal Stg2.
The DV location is independent of the emissions systems and solenoids you remove.


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## @lex20th (Jul 28, 2009)

*Re: (Savvv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Savvv* »_
Uni has a stage 2 file with the emissions deletes for $650 iirc. $50 more than just normal Stg2.
The DV location is independent of the emissions systems and solenoids you remove.

hey i have REVO... do you know if i can get the emissions delete by itself?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (beetle @lex)*

Not from Uni. There's a guy on here that does em, "reflected" is his name.


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## bmoney 303 (Jul 15, 2006)

*Re: (beetle @lex)*

no


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## anerness (Mar 29, 2009)

What if I was to just delete the N249, PCV, EVAP and just leave the SAI. Would it still have a cel?


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

*Re: (anerness)*

You will get a CEL for the EVAP system.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (Andaloons)*

You can delete everything and just keep them electronically plugged in and hidden. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

You will still get the CEL for the EVAP if you leave it plugged in...ask me how I know.


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## @lex20th (Jul 28, 2009)

*Re: (nstevic01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nstevic01* »_You will still get the CEL for the EVAP if you leave it plugged in...ask me how I know. 

how do you know?







lol


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (beetle @lex)*

cause I did it....lol


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## anerness (Mar 29, 2009)

What about the PCV and N249? I wanna take out as much as I can but I don't want any kind of cel's.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

*Re: (anerness)*

read the thread


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

*Re: (dubinsincuwereindiapers)*

soon as i get a camera hopefully we can start a new thread again lol.


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## Dropped 20v (Aug 23, 2008)

*Re: (anerness)*


_Quote, originally posted by *anerness* »_What about the PCV and N249? I wanna take out as much as I can but I don't want any kind of cel's.

iirc isnt the pcv under the mani? also i didnt remember having anything to resisotr there. what you could do is get a catch can and re route everything like in savv's MP pic.
as for the n249 you will get a CEL unless you resistor it. BUT if you have emissions testing in your state keep the n249/n112 bracket but delete the n249 and keep the n112. just make sure what wire goes to the n112 before you go nuts and resistor the wrong one. almost effd that one up haha. luckily i didnt thanks to those who helped me out.
do this and thank McBee http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4778865


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## luckylindy03 (Sep 19, 2009)

*Re: (Dropped 20v)*

this is awesome...
definatly doing all this on sunday


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## anerness (Mar 29, 2009)

Lets say I did the pcv delete and don't add the catch can set up what would happen? I don't need emissions. So if I delete the n249 and resistor it I won't have a cel? Sorry for all the questions guys. I just got into the vw scene and I am coming from bmw's.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nstevic01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nstevic01* »_You will still get the CEL for the EVAP if you leave it plugged in...ask me how I know. 

I've had it plugged in for over 2 years and the only fault code i get is for the SAI. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vdubb4lyfe (Nov 15, 2009)

nice


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (vdubb4lyfe)*

I wonder why some people get the CEL for EVAP and other don't. Just goes to show that no two dubs act alike.


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## KellerMKIV GLI (Aug 28, 2008)

So after reading through Sav's original post many times and McBee's diy on here I think I understand it all but just to make sure. Can I delete/replace the PCV with a catch can setup, delete the vac resevoir, delete the N249 but keep the N112 so I can keep my SAI components? I hope that all makes sense.


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## 01gtiaww (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: (nstevic01)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nstevic01* »_I wonder why some people get the CEL for EVAP and other don't. Just goes to show that no two dubs act alike.

Are you sure you have a working n80 solenoid? You can have it connected but if your n80 is bad you will throw a code. Same goes for the other solenoids (n112, n249) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by 01gtiaww at 10:58 AM 4-21-2010_


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: (01gtiaww)*

It was working prior to the delete, I wonder if capping it off is what is causing the code. I was planning on putting the EVAP back in due to the smell of gas, Ill uncap it, clear the code, and see if it comes back.


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## KellerMKIV GLI (Aug 28, 2008)

*Re: (KellerMKIV GLI)*

Anybody?


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## Tacosupreme (Jan 22, 2008)

bump for a sweet DYI


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## glimark (Jul 31, 2007)

*FV-QR*


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (glimark)*

Bwa ha ha ha, i did the exact same thing


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## Dameon (Oct 6, 2008)

Bump cause I will be doing this this weekend and I don't want this thread to get lost...stupid search...


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

KellerMKIV GLI said:


> So after reading through Sav's original post many times and McBee's diy on here I think I understand it all but just to make sure. Can I delete/replace the PCV with a catch can setup, delete the vac resevoir, delete the N249 but keep the N112 so I can keep my SAI components? I hope that all makes sense.


 No. You need the vacuum reservoir for the N249 AND the N112 to function properly.


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## Dameon (Oct 6, 2008)

Gone son...


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## robingohtt (Nov 6, 2005)

gonna do this soon!


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## KellerMKIV GLI (Aug 28, 2008)

Andaloons said:


> No. You need the vacuum reservoir for the N249 AND the N112 to function properly.


 Thanks for answering man. I guess I'll be getting a SAI block off plate soon then.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

Looks like I will be doing this w/ in a day or two... I am really not looking forward to it.


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## glimark (Jul 31, 2007)

I will be doing this to my Jetta soon after doing it to my buddies 1.8t thats going into his mk1.....Only difference is that his motor is out of the car and mines not :-( this should be fun.....Still looking for a catch Can haven't found one that i like yet looking for one to run fittings and stainless lines any ideas guys? might end up fabing one up myself


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## Evenodds20 (May 2, 2005)

42DD ultimate catch can. thats what im going with.


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## imgettinder (May 29, 2008)

Anybody in the WI are that could do this for me.. im way too busy but would love to have this done..


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Check it out and enjoy, took me a while but I think I got everything covered:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete


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## bink_420 (Jul 11, 2008)

nstevic01 said:


> Check it out and enjoy, took me a while but I think I got everything covered:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete


WOW!!! that is SSOOOO detailed. thank you for that! :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## GLIbrewster (Mar 3, 2010)

*oil catch can*

hey i just got an ebay oil catch can but im wondering if its bad to use it because the fittings on the top are for 1/4 hose. and the stock pvc system uses 1 inch and 3/4. would it be bad for my motor?


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## Malant (Aug 30, 2004)

Anyone happen to have their N112 valve laying around? I broke the plastic nipple on mine last night and need a replacement!


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## Haxes (Sep 2, 2007)

GLIbrewster said:


> hey i just got an ebay oil catch can but im wondering if its bad to use it because the fittings on the top are for 1/4 hose. and the stock pvc system uses 1 inch and 3/4. would it be bad for my motor?


I did this and my car runs fine. It's been done for more than 2 years. In fact I used various sizes of black washer/dryer hose and metal fittings, all found at your local hardware shop. Everything lasting great so far. Just make sure to empty your catch can! 

d0-it-up


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

Malant said:


> Anyone happen to have their N112 valve laying around? I broke the plastic nipple on mine last night and need a replacement!


I broke mine as well, very close to the base of the nipple. I cut one of the plastic tubes and used Krazy Glue to attach it to the N112. Worked like a charm :thumbup:


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## KlutchKing (Sep 23, 2008)

Just did this over the weekend! All my vac issues are GONE!!


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## burton2604 (Mar 19, 2010)

hey i have a few questions for you.. i started cleaning up my engine bay with this diy and im at the part with those vac hardlines.. i understand how to pull them and where the blockoff plate needs to go but what im confused about is the next part with the pump.. if i pull the hardlines do i have to pull that pump? or can i just pull the hardlines slap the block off on there and call it a day?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

burton2604 said:


> hey i have a few questions for you.. i started cleaning up my engine bay with this diy and im at the part with those vac hardlines.. i understand how to pull them and where the blockoff plate needs to go but what im confused about is the next part with the pump.. if i pull the hardlines do i have to pull that pump? or can i just pull the hardlines slap the block off on there and call it a day?


Are you talking about the SAI pump (has the plastic ribbed tubes going to it)? No it's not necessary to remove, but it's part of the reason this delete is being done, to increase the working area and clean up the engine bay. Removing it makes oil changes a little easier.


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## burton2604 (Mar 19, 2010)

its the part right after u pull the hardlines and put the blockoff plate on.. he sais its a real bitch and that u will get a cel which is why i dont want to do it.. also are u running no vac hose on the top of your diverter valve? is that alright or what? and about the n249 what to u do with the two plugs that went into that bracket? do u put and resistor on there and connect the two together or what?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Did this over the weekend, the o-ring for the coolant flange was trashed on mine, had coolant leaking everywhere; luckily we have a kit to make o-rings at my work. 

I think that the idle is much better after following this diy



burton2604 said:


> its the part right after u pull the hardlines and put the blockoff plate on.. he sais its a real bitch and that u will get a cel which is why i dont want to do it.. also are u running no vac hose on the top of your diverter valve? is that alright or what? and about the n249 what to u do with the two plugs that went into that bracket? do u put and resistor on there and connect the two together or what?


If you are this confused you may want to think twice about working on your car until you do some more research.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

burton2604 said:


> its the part right after u pull the hardlines and put the blockoff plate on.. he sais its a real bitch and that u will get a cel which is why i dont want to do it.. also are u running no vac hose on the top of your diverter valve? is that alright or what? and about the n249 what to u do with the two plugs that went into that bracket? do u put and resistor on there and connect the two together or what?


That would most likely be the SAI, below the oil filter under the car, its rather large and black, and has the black ribbed hoses going to it. It has 3 bolts holding it to the engine block, I was able to remove it on two cars taking only 5 mins each. It isnt as bad as your friend is making it out to be. 

READ through the posts, the CELs associated with this DIY have been thoroughly discussed. 

There is most definitely a hose going to the top of the diverter, your diverter will not work properly without that. Not sure how you came to that conclusion. 

Towards the bottom of the my DIY on page 1 (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete), there is a photo showing how the resistors get installed. I would probably go back a re-read the DIY. It's one of the last steps....

Like hootyburra said, if you are this confused on this DIY, I would think twice about removing this stuff.


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## inflatin (Sep 4, 2003)

Wow this looks amazing, but I wouldn't get away with this for very long living in California.


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## esmith17 (Aug 20, 2009)

*Engine light*



SAVwKO said:


> Well I figure it's about time someone make a DIY for this type of stuff. Only reason I decided to do it was because it was my buddy's turn to get the treatment and I told him to bust out the cam and take some mad pics. This guide will be divided into phases. Phase 1 is removing the N249 and SAI. Phase 2 will be the PCV and 3 the EVAP or vice versa, whatever I do first
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you have an engine light on after doing this?


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## vdubokc (Oct 13, 2010)

esmith17 said:


> Did you have an engine light on after doing this?


The last sentence in that whole posts said he has a CEL for EVAP and SAI. If you search around, you can find the resistor trick to eliminate those CEL's.


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## dtriforce (Oct 16, 2010)

SAVwKO said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *PolskiHetzen* »_I'm going to do this when it gets warmer.
> 
> get a torpedo heater


*urgent* What hardware is needed to do the n249 bypass? Hose sizes and other stuff if any.
thanks! im doing this tomorow.


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## KRRZ350 (Feb 3, 2010)

SAVwKO said:


>


That's the gayest picture I've ever seen anyone take for a writeup. Gay pictures aside, good job on the writeup, I especially liked the part on how to delete the evaporative emissions, I mean who needs that stuff anyways?


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Do we put the hockey puck valve back into the TIP? It's the one next to the DV


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## eurolicious (May 13, 2009)

KRRZ350 said:


> That's the gayest picture I've ever seen anyone take for a writeup. Gay pictures aside, good job on the writeup, I especially liked the part on how to delete the evaporative emissions, I mean who needs that stuff anyways?


 Are you seriously going to come into a great writeup thread and post some noob comment like that? Who cares is that picture is to your liking or not? If you got the right info needed to do the delete the thread did its job... 

I really wonder about this place sometimes:banghead:


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

hollywood084 said:


> Do we put the hockey puck valve back into the TIP? It's the one next to the DV


Any info in this?


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## L.I.VW13 (Apr 9, 2006)

hollywood084 said:


> Any info in this?


Some people do and some people don't. Its up to you. On my car i have that entire part deleted and just plugged the hole in the tip. Just run a vented catchcan:thumbup:


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks for the info.


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## R32dreamer17 (Oct 11, 2007)

I want to do this...


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

R32dreamer17 said:


> I want to do this...


so do it


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## brmin88 (Jul 30, 2009)

Anyone have dimensions for the sai opening and bolt spacing so I can make a blockoff plate?


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## AreEyeSee (Jul 11, 2010)

So deleting all of this stuff doesn't effect anything on the car at all? I thought I read somewhere that this effected your AC or something else. Not sure. Some one reassure me.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

What I want to know is how to do this and get away with emissions. :thumbup:


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> What I want to know is how to do this and get away with emissions. :thumbup:


That depends on the type on emissions test. If it's just a sniffer test, you should be ok if you have a cat. If they check error codes you will fail, but reflected on here will program your ecu to not throw the codes for $50. The only downside is if the also reset your readiness codes. If your ECU is reprogrammed the emissions readiness will show instantly ready, and they'll know you tampered with the ECU.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Zealot said:


> That depends on the type on emissions test. If it's just a sniffer test, you should be ok if you have a cat. If they check error codes you will fail, but reflected on here will program your ecu to not throw the codes for $50. The only downside is if the also reset your readiness codes. If your ECU is reprogrammed the emissions readiness will show instantly ready, and they'll know you tampered with the ECU.


It's a full blown emissions. I really just want all these uneeded hoses gone.


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## Russjameson (Dec 18, 2004)

im gonna be doing this finally on my 2-1.8t's
the rabbit will be the most important...lol


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Can anybody give me some input on removing the SAI

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5200669-Need-a-little-help-with-Engine-Cleanup


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## gtimitch (Nov 20, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> Can anybody give me some input on removing the SAI
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5200669-Need-a-little-help-with-Engine-Cleanup


 Refer to the top of the page and begin reading lol.....


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## Tofik (May 7, 2007)

****Hey guys check out the video Mike made to make this process a little easier for yous*** 

*http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-1/ 


:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Tofik said:


> ****Hey guys check out the video Mike made to make this process a little easier for yous***
> 
> *http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-1/
> 
> ...


 
Nice Video!


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## dspl1236 (May 30, 2007)

i posted this vid to a a few buddies. :beer:


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Tofik said:


> ****Hey guys check out the video Mike made to make this process a little easier for yous***
> 
> *http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-1/
> 
> ...


 DAMN, wish I saw that video sooner, I just did this last friday and it took way longer than it should have, oh well.


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Is anyone getting P2404 "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance" after plugging in the evap resistor? I didn't have that code before I put a resistor in.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

hollywood084 said:


> Is anyone getting P2404 "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance" after plugging in the evap resistor? I didn't have that code before I put a resistor in.


You better check to make sure you have it wired in right.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

gtimitch said:


> Refer to the top of the page and begin reading lol.....


That has nothing to do w/ PA emissions. Check the link :screwy: I already have my answer.


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> You better check to make sure you have it wired in right.


I'll probably just take it out. It wasn't there before. Doesn't anyone know what's up with fuel trims/adaptation when you do this mod? Do I have to add resistors? I've heard yes for evap plug and SAi selenoid and I've also heard no :\


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## iTech (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey Toby....resistors you sent are awesome quality:thumbup: Thanks again for the super fast shipping. Will talk to ya soon about some more for the shop.


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

hollywood084 said:


> I'll probably just take it out. It wasn't there before. Doesn't anyone know what's up with fuel trims/adaptation when you do this mod? Do I have to add resistors? I've heard yes for evap plug and SAi selenoid and I've also heard no :\


Click link in my sig and watch toward the end of the video. Yes, you need resistors. Not every harness is fuel adaptation related, but it is better to be in closed loop on all circuits, especially considering the price per resistor. Cheap.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> Resistors are not directional. If he put one end to each lead, he's fine.


I never said they were directional. :screwy: He may have jumped the wrong wires.



erevlydeux said:


> Long story short: resistor the harnesses for removed components, get your ECU coded out emissions-wise, and enjoy your cleaner bay while still keeping proper fuel trims.


This is false information. Getting the SAI system removed from the ECU will not get you past emissions. It will only keep the system from telling itself there isn't an SAI system present thus preventing DTC's from being thrown. The readiness monitors for the SAI system will still show failed considering it is not longer present. Depending on the state, 2 failed readiness monitors cause the emissions test to fail. :thumbup:

Long story short... you cannot fool readiness monitors. If the testing machine doesn't see the monitor present it automatically fails it.


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> This is false information. Getting the SAI system removed from the ECU will not get you past emissions. It will only keep the system from telling itself there isn't an SAI system present thus preventing DTC's from being thrown. The readiness monitors for the SAI system will still show failed considering it is not longer present. Depending on the state, 2 failed readiness monitors cause the emissions test to fail. :thumbup:
> 
> Long story short... you cannot fool readiness monitors. If the testing machine doesn't see the monitor present it automatically fails it.


He never said it would get you passed emissions. He just said to get those codes thrown by the missing emissions equipment coded out of your ECU.


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## KlutchKing (Sep 23, 2008)

hollywood084 said:


> Is anyone getting P2404 "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance" after plugging in the evap resistor? I didn't have that code before I put a resistor in.




Check the leak detection pump in the right rear wheel well behind the fender liner. I had that code before I did this delete and I just wiggled the wiring for the pump and it went away.


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> This is false information. Getting the SAI system removed from the ECU will not get you past emissions. It will only keep the system from telling itself there isn't an SAI system present thus preventing DTC's from being thrown. The readiness monitors for the SAI system will still show failed considering it is not longer present. Depending on the state, 2 failed readiness monitors cause the emissions test to fail. :thumbup:
> 
> Long story short... you cannot fool readiness monitors. If the testing machine doesn't see the monitor present it automatically fails it.


He didn't mention anything about passing emissions; only keeping fuel trims in check. Regardless, when you go through the trouble of editing fault codes out of your software, you would force readiness at the same time. Reflected does this for a fee, and you _shouldn't_ have any problems passing _most _emissions testing.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> Long story short... you cannot fool readiness monitors. If the testing machine doesn't see the monitor present it automatically fails it.


If it's just a signal, all you gotta do is install a black box that mimics the signal. I don't see what's so crazy hard about mimicking that.

Take a working car, slap a logic analyzer on it (for digital sensor) or storage oscilloscope (for analog sensor), sync it with the signals from something else it depends on, and you can make a virtual sensor from a microcontroller and $20 worth of parts.

That is the difference between passive electronics (eg. resistors) and active electronics (eg microcontrollers)


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

bootymac said:


> He didn't mention anything about passing emissions; only keeping fuel trims in check. Regardless, when you go through the trouble of editing fault codes out of your software, you would force readiness at the same time. Reflected does this for a fee, and you _shouldn't_ have any problems passing _most _emissions testing.


If you force readiness it will fail *MOST* emissions... the monitors have to be set over a period of so many miles. If they are not it fails.... if they are forced into a readiness state, they fail. If I could be corrected in a more logical matter I would be ecstatic.


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

travis_gli said:


> If you force readiness it will fail *MOST* emissions... the monitors have to be set over a period of so many miles. If they are not it fails.... if they are forced into a readiness state, they fail. If I could be corrected in a more logical matter I would be ecstatic.


It really depends on the type of emissions testing. As far as I know, forcing readiness means they're set to "pass" or "not applicable" -- similar to how testpipe files work. If the emissions testing involves resetting the readiness statuses so that they cycle, then you could fail. I believe most tests simply check for "pass" or "fail" readiness statuses


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> If you force readiness it will fail *MOST* emissions... the monitors have to be set over a period of so many miles. If they are not it fails.... if they are forced into a readiness state, they fail. If I could be corrected in a more logical matter I would be ecstatic.


Are intimately familiar with all the types of emissions testing used in the US? Do you know which is the most prevalent and what exactly it looks for? Where is your quantifiable data to backup your claim that forcing readiness will fail most emissions test?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> Obliged to try and correct where possible!
> 
> The premise of what reflected does is that it forces readiness checks. The typical readiness check usually is set through driving for X miles at 50% load or something like that ****. He sets it to ALWAYS show ready. Hence... it is forced. As far as I know, there is no way for the ECU to say "hey, how long did you drive before the readiness monitor for the 3-way catalytic converter went green? oh, 27 miles? OK, you're all set." It simply checks if it is ready or not ready.
> 
> ...


This is good information.



Zealot said:


> Are intimately familiar with all the types of emissions testing used in the US? Do you know which is the most prevalent and what exactly it looks for? Where is your quantifiable data to backup your claim that forcing readiness will fail most emissions test?


I have asked many popular software vendors including some of the new ones including Malone and they told me otherwise. They told me it will probably not show up as ready as they just remove the SAI coding out of the ECU so codes are not thrown and fuel trims are not messed w/. Forcing readiness does make sense and I will agree it will work however I read multiple documents focusing on readiness and it states otherwise. Some references and not limited to everything I found are in this thread... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5200669-Need-a-little-help-with-Engine-Cleanup

For any more information... well LMGTFY
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=readiness+monitors+PA

Also quoted directly from one of the vendors...
"Unfortunately not, when we disable the faults for SAI the readiness tests no longer run for the SAI. The monitors will show up as incomplete since the test never runs. "

EDIT: After doing some more reading forcing readiness should work. The procedures in PA are unlike NJ's from my reading. I thought otherwise.


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> I have asked many popular software vendors including some of the new ones including Malone and they told me otherwise. They told me it will probably not show up as ready as they just remove the SAI coding out of the ECU so codes are not thrown and fuel trims are not messed w/. Forcing readiness does make sense and I will agree it will work however I read multiple documents focusing on readiness and it states otherwise. Some references and not limited to everything I found are in this thread... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5200669-Need-a-little-help-with-Engine-Cleanup
> 
> For any more information... well LMGTFY
> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=readiness+monitors+PA
> ...


That's all well and good, but you said recoding the ECU to force readiness would cause it to fail *most * emissions tests. Last time I checked, PA and NJ emissions test do not equal most emissions tests. They are only 2 of 50 states in this nation, so once again I ask you to backup your claim that it would fail most emissions tests. If you're going to make an all encompassing claim, you better have the data to back it up.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Zealot said:


> That's all well and good, but you said recoding the ECU to force readiness would cause it to fail *most * emissions tests. Last time I checked, PA and NJ emissions test do not equal most emissions tests. They are only 2 of 50 states in this nation, so once again I ask you to backup your claim that it would fail most emissions tests. If you're going to make an all encompassing claim, you better have the data to back it up.


Dude relax I corrected myself. Jesus. I'm pretty sure PA and NJ are not the only states that do emissions testing this way. NY is included also (and of course Cali). There are others as well. If I wouldn't have corrected myself it would be one thing but what are you getting all bent out of shape about? PA emissions testing is fairly lenient compared to others that I'm aware of, considering in some counties emissions isn't even present.


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

I'm far from bent out of shape, but you were quite the opposite when you went on your tangent regarding readiness codes. I was just reiterating the importance of doing your research before you start making claims.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Zealot said:


> I'm far from bent out of shape, but you were quite the opposite when you went on your tangent regarding readiness codes. I was just reiterating the importance of doing your research before you start making claims.


I was told by multiple individuals that forcing readiness would cause it to fail. Research or not it came from experienced individuals. So if you would like to prove me wrong show me documentation for a few states that says different (especially PA), I however cannot find anything for or against the fact which makes me lean toward actually listening to them and not attempting to pull out my entire SAI system to just realize I have to re-install it for emissions testing. If I wouldn't daily drive the car it would be an entirely different story. The fact of the matter is that PA's emissions testing cannot be far off from most other states.

By the end of the summer I'll have somebody force readiness for the SAI system then unplug the smog pump before emissions. This would very easily prove the situation. I'll post results.


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## Zealot (Mar 9, 2003)

travis_gli said:


> I was told by multiple individuals that forcing readiness would cause it to fail. Research or not it came from experienced individuals. So if you would like to prove me wrong show me documentation for a few states that says different (especially PA), I however cannot find anything for or against the fact which makes me lean toward actually listening to them and not attempting to pull out my entire SAI system to just realize I have to re-install it for emissions testing. If I wouldn't daily drive the car it would be an entirely different story. The fact of the matter is that PA's emissions testing cannot be far off from most other states.
> 
> By the end of the summer I'll have somebody force readiness for the SAI system then unplug the smog pump before emissions. This would very easily prove the situation. I'll post results.


Your understanding of logic is a little backwards. You made the claim therefore you're the one that must bear the burden of proof. I made no claims. I just asked you to prove what you claimed. Much like those who have claimed ridiculous horsepower numbers out of the stock turbo have been asked to produce dyno results to back it up. Regardless, I look forward to the results of your real world test.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> Whoa guys, where's the love? :heart:
> 
> At any rate, emissions testing is a big black box. It'd be nice if there was a thread that collated all the information we have to determine if forcing readiness is enough to pass or if the state has the "ECU reset" machines, etc. List each state and what they require, if it's possible to pass with **** taken out, if not, etc.
> 
> .. who wants to carry the flag on that one?


I'll start it after I do some fiddling w/ PA emissions. Emissions testing is done differently per county, at least here in PA. Some counties in PA don't have emissions, some don't require certain things, etc, etc. So the listing should almost be by county.


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

Or, perhaps I'll start charging peeps $10 to register their cars to my address and I'll just mail you your stuff haha. There's only one county in Ohio that does e-check and I'm not in it. :heart:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Savvv said:


> Or, perhaps I'll start charging peeps $10 to register their cars to my address and I'll just mail you your stuff haha. There's only one county in Ohio that does e-check and I'm not in it. :heart:


I wish I knew somebody here in PA that would do that in one of the emissions exempt counties. I think Adams county here in PA has nothing close to emissions testing. I know some parts of NC have not even the slightest bit of emissions let alone safety. Pretty sure you could run an exhaust pipe out of the hood and they wouldn't care.


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

Check your local emissions testing website to see if they have information about the test procedure. Metro Vancouver's AirCare program is quite detailed about their OBD test:



0-1 readiness monitors "not ready" = ODB test
2-3 readiness monitors "not ready" = tailpipe test
4+ readiness monitors "not ready" = fail
 CEL on = fail


The grey area arises when forcing readiness, as I'm not sure whether the emissions scanner will see it as "ready" or "not applicable" and if a "not applicable" counts as a "not ready." However, even if forcing SAI readiness doesn't work, I can still pass the OBD test if all of my other readiness monitors are fine :thumbup:


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

erevlydeux said:


> What is an OBD test? If the CEL isn't on, and they're connecting over OBD-II already to check the readiness monitors... what else is there left to check via the computer?


It simply means that you passed the OBD test performed if you only have 0-1 readiness monitors "not ready" and your vehicle requires no additional testing. Basically, you wait in line for 30 minutes and pay $50 for them to tell you what you could've checked in VCDS in under 5 minutes :facepalm:

In the second situation, you would fail the OBD test and continue onto the tailpipe test.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

bootymac said:


> It simply means that you passed the OBD test performed if you only have 0-1 readiness monitors "not ready" and your vehicle requires no additional testing. Basically, you wait in line for 30 minutes and pay $50 for them to tell you what you could've checked in VCDS in under 5 minutes :facepalm:
> 
> In the second situation, you would fail the OBD test and continue onto the tailpipe test.


lol I would never pass the tailpipe sniffer


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## AreEyeSee (Jul 11, 2010)

So you can do this one section at a time right and still drive your car?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

AreEyeSee said:


> So you can do this one section at a time right and still drive your car?


As long as you plug things up as you're going, yes.

Which brings me to my next question... I wonder what you can remove and plug up w/ out throwing any codes.... There should be a writeup on things that can be removed for emissions folks.


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## JordanwitdaGti (Jan 11, 2010)

wheres the link to buy the kit for this. i found it to get to this link an i cant find it again!!:banghead:


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

JordanwitdaGti said:


> wheres the link to buy the kit for this. i found it to get to this link an i cant find it again!!:banghead:


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...AP-Delete-Kit-Pretty-much-everything-you-need

Just send me a PM, I am still selling them. New price is $90 shipped to the US.


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## JordanwitdaGti (Jan 11, 2010)

nstevic01 said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...AP-Delete-Kit-Pretty-much-everything-you-need
> 
> Just send me a PM, I am still selling them. New price is $90 shipped to the US.


thanks man ill be sendin you a pm within the next week or so. i have to go threw emissions either this week or next so the day after i pass all of this is comin out


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

noobish question...

id like to delete whatever i can, BUT NOT GET ANY CODES. I dont want to have to force any readiness, and not need any custom programming.

what all can i delete and just use resistors, and not have the ecu know ANYTHING has changed?


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## kamahao112 (Nov 17, 2007)

stand alone FTW:laugh:


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## mobtowntree (Mar 22, 2010)

*Did Mine!!!*

I did this delete yesterday with the exception of the blue balls. I left all that alone because my main concern was the engine bay and that seemed to be hidden enough and saved a little time also. I also kept the bracket that is in front of the intake manifold mainly because I had already bought this carbon fiber piece and I didn't want to let it go. I also liked that it held the dipstick off the manifold just a bit. I used 034's catch can and hoses (exept a few). 

I also changed my Injector "O" rings, installed an 034 spacer gasket for the manifold and replaced my thermostat while i was at it.

So all that, tuck the injector wires and add the carbon fiber covers and this is the finished project

I think it turned out pretty good.

at least for today eace:

BEFORE... (on a nicer day)











AFTER... (not as bright)


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

erevlydeux said:


> Standalone, that's it. :thumbup:


really?
if i just resistor out the n249 or whatever, how does the ecu know its not there?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

No they're exaggerating. You can delete the N249 and rerun your DV vac line to the intake manifold. That's pretty much it though. PCV can be editted too as there are no electrical connectors on those.

But the N112 controls operation of the combi valve so deleting that will prob cause an improper flow code, same as deleting the SAI pump.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

i wish it was that easy.
emissions stations are beginning to check readiness. havent you seen the thread about passing emissions???


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

erevlydeux said:


> I wouldn't say we're exaggerating. Deleting the N249 isn't really deleting much at all. If you want to delete anything meaningful, a la SAI/EVAP, you'd get codes.. hence my "that's it" statement. This is just splitting hairs, though.
> 
> Man up, delete the SAI/EVAP/N249/PCV, get resistors, send your ECU to reflected, and be done with it. :thumbup:


By definition, you are haha. No need to take it the wrong way though. 99% of VAG enthusiasts lol at standalone, so it'd be safe to assume that won't be his route of choice. Regardless, his question was answered correctly.

And per his last post, sending the ECU to reflected or even doing a Uni Stg2 Emissions flash won't help him if and only if his county clears the codes and then checks readiness for pass. Both ways force to pass and they'll know instantly the ECU has been tampered with. Best way to find out is go get checked and see if they clear anything during the scan process I guess. Even better way is to bring a benjamin and make a friend.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

mobtowntree said:


> I think it turned out pretty good.
> 
> at least for today eace:


What silicon hose is that leading from your valve cover to the catch can? I wouldn't mind having one.


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## mobtowntree (Mar 22, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> What silicon hose is that leading from your valve cover to the catch can? I wouldn't mind having one.


It came with the 034 catch can kit for the 1.8t
http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-catch-can-breather-kit-mk4-18t-p-19167.html


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

mobtowntree said:


> It came with the 034 catch can kit for the 1.8t
> http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-catch-can-breather-kit-mk4-18t-p-19167.html


Should have bought that kit, its very clean compared to my heater hose setup w/ my 42DD can. :banghead:


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## Sinner44 (Oct 11, 2006)

I did this delete last winter and put the correct resistors in the appropriate locations and I haven't thrown any codes relating to their deletes.... (the only code I do have is from my O2 sensor, because I am not running a Cat) I dont even get the Improper flow code from the SAI delete.. and If you have VagCom there are ways achieve readiness


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Sinner44 said:


> I did this delete last winter and put the correct resistors in the appropriate locations and I haven't thrown any codes relating to their deletes.... (the only code I do have is from my O2 sensor, because I am not running a Cat) I dont even get the Improper flow code from the SAI delete.. and If you have VagCom there are ways achieve readiness


I was under the impression that you couldn't force readiness w/ vagcom only run readiness test. I'm pretty sure you can't pass readiness using it, rather only run the tests. What's causing you to not receive the improper flow code I wonder. Makes me want to give it a go.


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## Sinner44 (Oct 11, 2006)

I personally haven't tried it, but some people i've read have gotten away with forcing readiness by leaning out mixtures at idle and etc....i'm not sure if it actually works though.... I'm not sure.... everything that needs to have a resistor has one...n80, sai, and etc...


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## theGo (Aug 3, 2009)

sorry, maybe its just me but it seems every other person that talks or tries this pass emissions and the other dose not id like to get some good facts out of this thread with out having to read through the clutter, so is there someone who has completed this WHO LIVES IN A COUNTY WITH EMISSIONS LAWS who has passed emissions with out having to pay someone off, and if so how did you do it? (in Washington state )


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## The Brown Hippo (Dec 7, 2008)

*FV-QR*

So if I do this and send my ecu to reflected I won't get a cel correct?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

erevlydeux said:


> If you live in a county where they just check the light, or even better, will do a tailpipe sniffer test if your OBD port isn't working... (hint hint) you could pass it that way.


Not a bad idea actually. Just snip the 12v power wire to the OBD-II port and wire in a switch. Turn it off so when they plug in there's no response, force them to use the sniffer.



The Brown Hippo said:


> So if I do this and send my ecu to reflected I won't get a cel correct?


Correct.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

a non functional obd port will be an automatic fail in many states.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> a non functional obd port will be an automatic fail in many states.


This. :thumbup:

The garage will then fix your OBDII port by removing your "switch" possibly attempt to fine you by getting the state PD out to the shop and then charge you $100 for "fixing" your OBDII port. At least that's what I would do. :laugh:


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

Lol...oh well. If I had echeck, I'd be bringing a $100 bill.


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## VENT0GT (Sep 15, 2009)

bump for a good diy!! very useful:beer::beer:


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## carnivor9595 (Mar 23, 2011)

thanks


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## 1.8t annihilation (Sep 26, 2011)

*?*

I just did the sai and evap delete and my engine is running realy rough. Help please


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## Chaseweston (Apr 8, 2011)

for sure doing this my next day off. need to clean up my bay. catch can is on the way so as soon as i get that, its delete time sucka! great write up


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

*clearing codes with Liquid TT*

I am thinking of doing this delete. My state has emissions. I have the Liquid TT gauge and can check and erase codes. If I clear the "improper flow" code before emissions, and it is a hot start, I think I will pass no problem? Can anyone confirm that?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

1.8t annihilation said:


> I just did the sai and evap delete and my engine is running realy rough. Help please


 vacuum leak or you didn't resistor something off correctly. next time take your time and read carefully


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## Tate393 (Jun 21, 2011)

What is the purpose of a catch can and where is it located? (or where would it be)


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Tate393 said:


> What is the purpose of a catch can and where is it located? (or where would it be)


 You can add a catch can to your cars crank case breather system which in return catches any oil vapor coming from the crank case and deposits it in the can. This way the oil vapor doesn't make it back into your cars intake stream which in return gunks everything from your pipes, intercooler, sensors etc. The breather system is present so pressure can be relieved from the crankcase without blowing any seals.


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## JordanwitdaGti (Jan 11, 2010)

Sinner44 said:


> I did this delete last winter and put the correct resistors in the appropriate locations and I haven't thrown any codes relating to their deletes.... (the only code I do have is from my O2 sensor, because I am not running a Cat) I dont even get the Improper flow code from the SAI delete.. and If you have VagCom there are ways achieve readiness


 blackforest industries makes the 02 spacer i havent seen my cel in 15k miles since i out it on


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

*What catch can is this? I really like it...*

http://www.vwvortex.com/bryan/faqpix/18t_enginebay_cleanup/029.jpg 

What catch can is this? Anyone have a link or a name? 

Thanks


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## Chaseweston (Apr 8, 2011)

jbutlertelecom said:


> http://www.vwvortex.com/bryan/faqpix/18t_enginebay_cleanup/029.jpg
> 
> What catch can is this? Anyone have a link or a name?
> 
> Thanks


 It's an eBay can. $21 and change shipped :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> Blah, that only is fugly.
> 
> I'd consider the 42DD stealth can if you're willing to spend a little extra on a properly designed catch can. :thumbup:


 That's the can that I have and it's boss. It's baffled correctly unlike many other cans. Even most top notch catch cans aren't baffled correctly to catch the vapors.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> The 42DD stealth can is baffled.


 That's what I just said. :laugh:


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

*bump*



emtguy82 said:


> I am thinking of doing this delete. My state has emissions. I have the Liquid TT gauge and can check and erase codes. If I clear the "improper flow" code before emissions, and it is a hot start, I think I will pass no problem? Can anyone confirm that?


 Anyone tried this


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## YASHA7FOLD (Mar 31, 2011)

good job thanks


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

emtguy82 said:


> Anyone tried this


 Your fault codes have nothing to do with readiness, complete different system. So no that won't work.


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## savphili (Jun 4, 2004)

Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?

thank you,
:beer:


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## Haxes (Sep 2, 2007)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:


The evap wouldn't have anything to do with your fuel delivery. I'd say check the vacuum line going to your fuel pressure regulator, the fpr itself, and the filter. Also wouldn't hurt to double check the nipples underneath the intake manifold to make sure the ones removed are sealed well, and any caps/lines down there aren't cracked. Sounds like a vac leak to me. :beer:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:





Haxes said:


> The evap wouldn't have anything to do with your fuel delivery. I'd say check the vacuum line going to your fuel pressure regulator, the fpr itself, and the filter. Also wouldn't hurt to double check the nipples underneath the intake manifold to make sure the ones removed are sealed well, and any caps/lines down there aren't cracked. Sounds like a vac leak to me. :beer:


I'm not saying your wrong but this isn't quite my experience. Most users on here experience hard starts after removing even portions of the evap system. It's completely normal if you are having rough starts where the car idles higher than usual and sputters a bit. If the car goes back to normal after a few minutes of running (when it's warmed up) this is completely normal. The smog pump would usually send vapors back into the intake stream during the warm up phases to help the car itself and the catalytic converter warm up. (Correct me if I'm wrong here.) The car is expecting this added flow. After removing the system it no longer has the added vapors and idles / drives roughly during the warm up phase.


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## Thann (Oct 19, 2010)

Subscribed for future reference.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:


you don't need to reinstall the system. you may need to resistor some things, but I did not and have not had a problem yet



Haxes said:


> The evap wouldn't have anything to do with your fuel delivery. I'd say check the vacuum line going to your fuel pressure regulator, the fpr itself, and the filter. Also wouldn't hurt to double check the nipples underneath the intake manifold to make sure the ones removed are sealed well, and any caps/lines down there aren't cracked. Sounds like a vac leak to me. :beer:


:beer:



travis_gli said:


> I'm not saying your wrong but this isn't quite my experience. Most users on here experience hard starts after removing even portions of the evap system. It's completely normal if you are having rough starts where the car idles higher than usual and sputters a bit. If the car goes back to normal after a few minutes of running (when it's warmed up) this is completely normal. The smog pump would usually send vapors back into the intake stream during the warm up phases to help the car itself and the catalytic converter warm up. (Correct me if I'm wrong here.) The car is expecting this added flow. After removing the system it no longer has the added vapors and idles / drives roughly during the warm up phase.


my car doesnt run rough at all during the warm up phase UNLESS i floor it literally right after i turn it on. give it a good 10 secs of run time and its usually ok to drive although i let the car warm up most of the time before i pull off. there have been times where i literally had to get in a go w/ no warm up


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## woodywoods86 (Jul 29, 2008)

Yeah, I live in CA but my car is Registered GA! 
No emissions for me!


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## -EuroDub- (Jan 1, 2010)

Great diy. Planning on doing this tomorrow. :thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

-EuroDub- said:


> Great diy. Planning on doing this tomorrow. :thumbup:


yezzir :beer: it was cake doing mine


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## a7x411 (Aug 6, 2010)

im in the process of doing this whole delete, i completely removed the n249 bracket and disconnected the 2 conenctors on it, can i just leave both of those connectors disconnected? or since one is the n112, does anything need to be done to it?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

a7x411 said:


> im in the process of doing this whole delete, i completely removed the n249 bracket and disconnected the 2 conenctors on it, can i just leave both of those connectors disconnected? or since one is the n112, does anything need to be done to it?


Resistor 'em up


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## a7x411 (Aug 6, 2010)

can you use these on all 4 connectors that need resistors?
http://www.intengineering.com/postreleased-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

a7x411 said:


> can you use these on all 4 connectors that need resistors?
> http://www.intengineering.com/postreleased-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html


Check rectangle or oval...but yes, those can be used.


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## a7x411 (Aug 6, 2010)

getting this SAI out is kicking my ass. Whats the easiest way to get this bracket off bc it feels like theres not even enough room to fit the 8mm allen head socket in there with the 3/6 ratchet, even with the u joint. im almost tempted to just leave that on the car and take the hoses off and disconnect the connector


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## FNG21222 (Feb 23, 2010)

:beer:

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

a7x411 said:


> can you use these on all 4 connectors that need resistors?
> http://www.intengineering.com/postreleased-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html


Just order them direct. http://www.postreleased.com/


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## Lozza_1.8T (Jun 23, 2011)

I have done all of this delete and used postreleased resistors but I have started getting a evap fault code p0441.

I thought the resistors would stop the cel, I contacted postreleased and he said that the resistors don't all ways cancel the cel?

Has anyone else had the cel pop up after using a resistor on the evap?

Sent from my LG-P990 using Tapatalk


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

The resistors are there for the purpose of preventing an open circuit in the evap system and the others in order to allow fuel trims to continue to adapt. They will not, however, prevent you from getting a CEL for improper flow due to the missing evap system and SAI. If I'm not mistaken, and if I am someone please correct me, Unitronic is the only company that offers deletes for those codes with the disclaimer that the tune is intended for off road use only.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Lozza_1.8T said:


> I have done all of this delete and used postreleased resistors but I have started getting a evap fault code p0441.
> 
> I thought the resistors would stop the cel, I contacted postreleased and he said that the resistors don't all ways cancel the cel?
> 
> ...


Right. The resistors can't stop the CEL. The ECU knows there should be flow happening when it tries to activate the SAI pump or purge the charcoal canister and when that flow is non-existent... it knows something is wrong.

The resistors are indeed just to maintain fuel adaptation. I mean, they turn off the open circuit codes since they complete the circuit... but they don't stop/can't stop the ECU from seeing the improper flow and that's what you're seeing here.

Any tuner can turn off that specific CEL, it's not hard... but it's just whether or not they are willing to do it.

Good luck. :beer:


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## BlackRadon (Oct 1, 2006)

FTMFW said:


> The resistors are there for the purpose of preventing an open circuit in the evap system and the others in order to allow fuel trims to continue to adapt. They will not, however, prevent you from getting a CEL for improper flow due to the missing evap system and SAI. If I'm not mistaken, and if I am someone please correct me, Unitronic is the only company that offers deletes for those codes with the disclaimer that the tune is intended for off road use only.



http://malonetuning.com/ can do the software. No more CEL:thumbup:


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

QU1KGTI said:


> These lines highlighted in blue, what do they do? I know one of them is for the blue balls correct? I'm not sure exactly what the other line attached to it is


I am doing a AWP swap into my g60 C, and I removed the same stuff from my AWP, but was curious to know if you actually need the line covered in blue(in the above picture) or not? Sorry, 20v n00b here:laugh:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

2OVT said:


> I am doing a AWP swap into my g60 C, and I removed the same stuff from my AWP, but was curious to know if you actually need the line covered in blue(in the above picture) or not? Sorry, 20v n00b here:laugh:


One is evap (blue balls) and one goes from the upper radiator hose T junction to the top of the coolant ball.


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

groggory said:


> One is evap (blue balls) and one goes from the upper radiator hose T junction to the top of the coolant ball.


awesome, so I can just reroute the overlow back into the upper rad or something?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

2OVT said:


> awesome, so I can just reroute the overlow back into the upper rad or something?


Reroute the top nipple of the coolant ball to the nipple on top of the coolant T fitting using an appropriate hose.


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## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

Lozza_1.8T said:


> I have done all of this delete and used postreleased resistors but I have started getting a evap fault code p0441.
> 
> I thought the resistors would stop the cel, I contacted postreleased and he said that the resistors don't all ways cancel the cel?
> 
> ...


Did you cap off the two white hard plastic lines right next to the fuel lines? If you cap those off, you won't get the improper flow anymore. 

Also, I don't know why everyone always insists on a 10 watt resistor for the 1.8t. That is way overkill. Since this is a 12v system and we are using a 330ohm resistor, the equation is W = V squared / R

So 144/330 = .436 watts. A 1 Watt resistor is plenty for the job and much cheaper. You can get them at Mouser Electronics for 16 cents each. I am using them for everything with no issues.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/PR01000103300JR500/?qs=LCMWAU1DZcyX63VvlWTIow==


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## woodywoods86 (Jul 29, 2008)

K20017 said:


> Did you cap off the two white hard plastic lines right next to the fuel lines? If you cap those off, you won't get the improper flow anymore.
> 
> Also, I don't know why everyone always insists on a 10 watt resistor for the 1.8t. That is way overkill. Since this is a 12v system and we are using a 330ohm resistor, the equation is W = V squared / R
> 
> ...


IIRC Amperage is going to cause your resistor to heat up if it is not the right size. The 10 watt will handle the amps a lot better. Correct me if I am wrong it has been a while since I took EC and M.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

woodywoods86 said:


> IIRC Amperage is going to cause your resistor to heat up if it is not the right size. The 10 watt will handle the amps a lot better. Correct me if I am wrong it has been a while since I took EC and M.


V=IR -> I=V/R
P=IV ...->... P=(V/R)V=V^2/R

We know V=14.4V and R=330 ohm therefore the power dissipated in the resistor (in watts) is P = 14.4^2 / 330 = .628 W

Reference this...http://www.ohmite.com/techdata/res_select.pdf

Environmental conditions.

watts to be dispersed x ambient temp factor x enclosure factor x grouping factor x altitude factor x pulse operation factor x cooling air factor x limited rise temp factor

.628 x 1.2 x 1.8 x 1 x 1 x 1 x 1 x 1 = 1.3W of power resistor power dissipation capability.

It's a well known fact that for a power resistor you're better off with a wire wound resistor, so let's stick with that...

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=NVtqiPcHxP88Cj7L4zXF****VchPLT0/Dy9awezoZ/k=

Bam! 57 cents. 3W, 330 ohm, 5%, -55C - 200C temperature, .47" long


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

groggory said:


> Reroute the top nipple of the coolant ball to the nipple on top of the coolant T fitting using an appropriate hose.


cool, thanks man.


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## woodywoods86 (Jul 29, 2008)

:beer:

Cheers to a factor of safety of 2.

I like it!


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

groggory said:


> Check rectangle or oval...but yes, those can be used.


in the diy article they state there is 4 connectors that need to be resistored, 

in the link the INA website they have 3 connectors listed (not including n75), can somebody simply note the four connectors that need resistors/ina plug in? 
sorry if im missing something 
thanks guys


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

groggory said:


> V=IR -> I=V/R
> P=IV ...->... P=(V/R)V=V^2/R
> 
> We know V=14.4V and R=330 ohm therefore the power dissipated in the resistor (in watts) is P = 14.4^2 / 330 = .628 W
> ...


While I could bring up the fact that the Ohmite app note is using catch-all testing procedures which don't correlate to specific resistors that have better derating curves... your application of their formula is wrong. These are sitting in still air... atleast not very often. A quick calculation shows that driving around 40mph is approximately ~3500fpm. Even if the resistors see 10% of that which seems more than reasonable.... that's still 350fpm.. which changes that 1 to something closer to 0.6... which brings the power rating needed back down under 3/4 watt. 

This thread isn't exactly about the rating procedures for resistors.. but yeah.


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

so my 10w resistors were overkill?


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## woodywoods86 (Jul 29, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> While I could bring up the fact that the Ohmite app note is using catch-all testing procedures which don't correlate to specific resistors that have better derating curves... your application of their formula is wrong. These are sitting in still air... atleast not very often. A quick calculation shows that driving around 40mph is approximately ~3500fpm. Even if the resistors see 10% of that which seems more than reasonable.... that's still 350fpm.. which changes that 1 to something closer to 0.6... which brings the power rating needed back down under 3/4 watt.
> 
> This thread isn't exactly about the rating procedures for resistors.. but yeah.


Truth in engineering 

Okay so beyond formulas and assumptions 

Why are 10W resistors the standard in this DIY and others like it? :sly:

Factor of safety for a 10W resistor is 13 (overkill) using your conclusion

enlighten me I think I am missing something.


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## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

rains said:


> so my 10w resistors were overkill?


Yeah, pretty much.


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## woodywoods86 (Jul 29, 2008)

David_Tedder said:


> in the diy article they state there is 4 connectors that need to be resistored,
> 
> in the link the INA website they have 3 connectors listed (not including n75), can somebody simply note the four connectors that need resistors/ina plug in?
> sorry if im missing something
> thanks guys


If you delete everything you need 4.

1. SAI
2. N249
3. N113? (the other valve underneath the bracket)
4. EVAP


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

woodywoods86 said:


> If you delete everything you need 4.
> 
> 1. SAI
> 2. N249
> ...



N80 (EVAP purge value) and N112 (SAI combi control solenoid) are the only ones really "required." You can resistor the N249, N75 and VVT without problems, though, to tidy things up and cap off the electrical connectors. The SAI pump itself needs no resistor... but you have to figure out a way to seal the connector from getting water in it since it'll now be open.

And yes, relatively speaking... 10W wirewounds are overkill... both on cost and size. The fact that you only need around 1 watt of actual power handling capacity is the only reason I can make the little delete resistors that I make... otherwise they'd be way big and unreasonable.


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

woodywoods86 said:


> If you delete everything you need 4.
> 
> 1. SAI
> 2. N249
> ...


so two oval and two rectangle INA connectors would be required?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> While I could bring up the fact that the Ohmite app note is using catch-all testing procedures which don't correlate to specific resistors that have better derating curves... your application of their formula is wrong. These are sitting in still air... atleast not very often. A quick calculation shows that driving around 40mph is approximately ~3500fpm. Even if the resistors see 10% of that which seems more than reasonable.... that's still 350fpm.. which changes that 1 to something closer to 0.6... which brings the power rating needed back down under 3/4 watt.
> 
> This thread isn't exactly about the rating procedures for resistors.. but yeah.


I'm assuming the resistors are insulated and sealed in heat shrink, which is a poor conductor of heat


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

groggory said:


> I'm assuming the resistors are insulated and sealed in heat shrink, which is a poor conductor of heat


The encapsulant isn't the best conductor of heat, sure.  It will still transfer heat, though. We're not talking about a huge amount of heat being generated here either.

I mean, I'll send you some resistors... I'll bet dollars to donuts that the encapsulant will break down before the resistor does, though. 



David_Tedder said:


> so two oval and two rectangle INA connectors would be required?


. INA doesn't sell anything that you're mentioning here nor do they have a website. Do you mean Integrated Engineering?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I got a resistor for the secondary air pump. Should I put inline with the wire and leave the pump plugged in, or should I just put it in the connector pos/neg terminals and seal it and remove the pump:sly:?


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> The encapsulant isn't the best conductor of heat, sure.  It will still transfer heat, though. We're not talking about a huge amount of heat being generated here either.
> 
> I mean, I'll send you some resistors... I'll bet dollars to donuts that the encapsulant will break down before the resistor does, though.
> 
> ...


sorry yes i got them mixed up, integrated engineering is what im reffering to


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Slimjimmn said:


> I got a resistor for the secondary air pump. Should I put inline with the wire and leave the pump plugged in, or should I just put it in the connector pos/neg terminals and seal it and remove the pump:sly:?


Connect positive to one lead and negative to the other. You can put it in the connector or cut and splice the wiring. Cutting and splicing is probably the more secure way of the two... but then again, you also don't need a resistor for the pump itself... so this is an exercise it futility. 



David_Tedder said:


> sorry yes i got them mixed up, integrated engineering is what im reffering to


Then yeah... if you have a standard 1.8T:
N80 -> oval
N75 -> rectangle
N112 -> rectangle
N249 -> rectangle
VVT -> rectangle

SAI pump doesn't need a resistor... just cover the connector with tape or something.


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## David_Tedder (Oct 24, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Then yeah... if you have a standard 1.8T:
> N80 -> oval
> N75 -> rectangle
> N112 -> rectangle
> ...


now theoretically if i had my uni file delete all those would i need to bother with any of the oval or rectangular connectors or resisitors, or could i just simply put electrical tape them to cover them and not worry bout it cuz file has them deleted?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

David_Tedder said:


> now theoretically if i had my uni file delete all those would i need to bother with any of the oval or rectangular connectors or resisitors, or could i just simply put electrical tape them to cover them and not worry bout it cuz file has them deleted?


You still need certain resistors.

The deletes tell the computer "Don't throw an error for x,y,z codes"

However, in the hard programming there are other logic lines that say "If sensor a is missing or showing a certain behavior, do routine b"

The resistors make the hard programming happy.

I think there are only a few resistors that are required to keep things happy but I don't remember which ones.

Honestly, for the price of the resistor kits, just buy them. At the very least they seal up those connectors nicely.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

groggory said:


> You still need certain resistors.
> The deletes tell the computer "Don't throw an error for x,y,z codes"
> However, in the hard programming there are other logic lines that say "If sensor a is missing or showing a certain behavior, do routine b"
> 
> ...







[email protected] said:


> N80 (EVAP purge value) and N112 (SAI combi control solenoid) are the only ones really "required." You can resistor the N249, N75 and VVT without problems, though, to tidy things up and cap off the electrical connectors. The SAI pump itself needs no resistor...


^^^What Toby said. All I have electronically plugged in are the N80 & N112 for adaptation. Everything else is tucked away loose.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> Connect positive to one lead and negative to the other. You can put it in the connector or cut and splice the wiring. Cutting and splicing is probably the more secure way of the two... but then again, you also don't need a resistor for the pump itself... so this is an exercise it futility.


I just dont want the pesky check engine light..


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Slimjimmn said:


> I just dont want the pesky check engine light..


Either way is gonna be fine for getting rid of the open circuit codes. It's the improper flow stuff you need to get taken care of.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Either way is gonna be fine for getting rid of the open circuit codes. It's the improper flow stuff you need to get taken care of.


Did anybody look into what sort of signal is sent for this improper flow code? Can the signal not be simulated by some means to get around it? Where does the code originate? Obviously some sort of sensor has to trip the fault code.

EDIT: After doing research myself that code comes from the pre-cat O2 sensor so there is no way around it unless it's completely coded out of the ECU. If you do that and require emissions my best guess is you would fail at that point? Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

travis_gli said:


> Did anybody look into what sort of signal is sent for this improper flow code? Can the signal not be simulated by some means to get around it? Where does the code originate? Obviously some sort of sensor has to trip the fault code.
> 
> EDIT: After doing research myself that code comes from the pre-cat O2 sensor so there is no way around it unless it's completely coded out of the ECU. If you do that and require emissions my best guess is you would fail at that point? Correct me if I'm wrong.


Depends on the state and the testing machine they use. Apparently, some states like New Jersey have machines that purposely reset all readiness checks and make sure they show as not ready after before letting them be updated as it rolls on the dyno or whatever...

If you force readiness, you have the potential to fail. There's no really no sure shot way to pass if you've removed the emissions gear. It really depends on your state and their testing procedures. This is also not including the other option: bribing the smog tech. :laugh:


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

In states like NJ a bribe will not help.
the inspection is all done by the machine. 
The tech can WANT you to pass, but he can't make it pass.

Your best bet is to find a way NOT to go through smog(register out of state, register as a hobby car, idk what)


----------



## treid (Mar 3, 2012)

I need to replace the SAI system for emissions reasons (bought the car out of state). Can someone help me identify where these vac lines lead? 

Thanks!


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

treid said:


> I need to replace the SAI system for emissions reasons (bought the car out of state). Can someone help me identify where these vac lines lead?
> 
> Thanks!


 From first post: 










1: green 
2: yellow 
3: red


----------



## treid (Mar 3, 2012)

Thank you!!


----------



## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

lol /\ 


I finally got around to finishing my n249/sai delete. 
Got the Combi-valve off without removing the coolant flange. I just had to remove the rear heater core hose and use a 5mm ball allen socket. Worked great! 

So much more room in the engine bay now! Car drives good. Put resistors from Integrated Engineering in there, one for the n249, one for the n112, and one in the sai pump plug. Just jammed it into the connector and duct tape the shizz out of it. Left the pump in, as I still have the hose going to the intake pipe. Need to find a tiny pcv filter for it or something.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

So FYI, it will set a check engine light with secondary air incorrect flow... lame...
and the only way to remove that code is with chip tuning with emissions delete.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Slimjimmn said:


> So FYI, it will set a check engine light with secondary air incorrect flow... lame...
> and the only way to remove that code is with chip tuning with emissions delete.


Yup... been said more than a few times in this thread.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

toby,
do you know what resistor is needed when removing VVT? variable valve timing


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

speed51133! said:


> toby,
> do you know what resistor is needed when removing VVT? variable valve timing


It's the same as the others.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Yup... been said more than a few times in this thread.


I believe what needs to be stated in this thread is if you will pass readiness checks after an emissions delete file. Everybody has mixed answers for such subjects.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

travis_gli said:


> I believe what needs to be stated in this thread is if you will pass readiness checks after an emissions delete file. Everybody has mixed answers for such subjects.


You'll "pass" them if someone just looked at them... any machine is capable of cycling them to make sure they aren't forced and fail properly after a reset. If you want real, true answers... then you need to talk to a smog tech in your state/county of interest. Nobody else is going to be able to tell you the truth otherwise.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> You'll "pass" them if someone just looked at them... any machine is capable of cycling them to make sure they aren't forced and fail properly after a reset. If you want real, true answers... then you need to talk to a smog tech in your state/county of interest. Nobody else is going to be able to tell you the truth otherwise.


I'm fairly certain that most of PA's machines do not reset readiness they just check the monitors for a "ready" state. If during the given test the readiness monitor was reset and the car fails emissions the individual would have to then have the failed component fixed as well as drive the car for an unstated amount of mileage before they could have the vehicle re-tested. Given these monitors are usually set at random intervals and a retest is usually free as long as it is within the 30 - 60 day window (I believe) I doubt the whole "reset" process would be used as it wouldn't make much sense. You pretty much always pay for both stickers (safety and emissions) after the testing is completed whether pass or fail. That's how things are done here in PA at least in most counties that require emissions.

I'll have to post in a local forum to see if anybody can verify all of this as most stations would not give this sort of information up.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

travis_gli said:


> I'm fairly certain that most of PA's machines do not reset readiness they just check the monitors for a "ready" state. If during the given test the readiness monitor was reset and the car fails emissions the individual would have to then have the failed component fixed as well as drive the car for an unstated amount of mileage before they could have the vehicle re-tested. Given these monitors are usually set at random intervals and a retest is usually free as long as it is within the 30 - 60 day window (I believe) I doubt the whole "reset" process would be used as it wouldn't make much sense. You pretty much always pay for both stickers (safety and emissions) after the testing is completed whether pass or fail. That's how things are done here in PA at least in most counties that require emissions.
> 
> I'll have to post in a local forum to see if anybody can verify all of this as most stations would not give this sort of information up.


No, you might doubt the reset process but it's used in states like New Jersey the last I heard. To this end, plenty of people have posted about getting screwed in NJ because their forced readiness was detected when they got hooked up to the scanner at the smog station.

Again... this is why you need to either ask people who have actually been tested in the county you care about.... or get answers from a smog tech. There's really no way to make an educated guess considering how much the local law can change town to town... even within the same state.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

thank you MN for not having emissions testing:laugh:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> No, you might doubt the reset process but it's used in states like New Jersey the last I heard. To this end, plenty of people have posted about getting screwed in NJ because their forced readiness was detected when they got hooked up to the scanner at the smog station.
> 
> Again... this is why you need to either ask people who have actually been tested in the county you care about.... or get answers from a smog tech. There's really no way to make an educated guess considering how much the local law can change town to town... even within the same state.


:thumbup:



Slimjimmn said:


> thank you MN for not having emissions testing:laugh:


Would be nice, there's a few counties in PA that still do not test but I'm sure that will change in the near future.


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## Ironrage (May 28, 2011)

Since everyone is removing them, I am wondering who wants to sell me all this stuff for cheap? I have a 01gti that someone did this too and I am tired of looking at the CEL. SO someone sell me their stuff to replace all the crap removed.


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## cooper2069 (May 23, 2008)

where are the pics of what you do with the n75 and dv?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

and


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## a7x411 (Aug 6, 2010)

so i did this delete and got the plug and play resistors from postreleased, i got them on the n249 and n112 connectors but the connector for the sai pump is way bigger, do they have a premade plug and play resistor for this one or doesn anyone know who does have one or do you just have to simply solder in a resistor? 
also is this the connector that causes the improper airflow cel?


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## 04_BMP_GLI (Jul 12, 2004)

So, I started to get rid of some of the PVC lines and the 90* elbow that connects to the oil filter housing was busted and I'm not sure if some of it actually went into the oil filter housing or not. Should I drain the oil?? I need to do an oil change anyway. Just worried about any debris from that elbow being in the engine.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

http://www.intengineering.com/1-8t-sai-pump-resistor.html 
use this for the SAI pump. 
If you delete any of the secondary air components it will set the incorrect flow code.


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## mhcooper84 (Mar 15, 2012)

does it have to be a 330ohm 10watt? radio shack only had 100w 10ohm will that work?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

BTw. You can string resistors end to end and add up the resistance. So for 330 do 3 100 resistors and 3 10s or any iteration. 

Btw again you don't really need to resistor the pump.


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## mhcooper84 (Mar 15, 2012)

does it matter the watt?


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

a7x411 said:


> so i did this delete and got the plug and play resistors from postreleased, i got them on the n249 and n112 connectors but the connector for the sai pump is way bigger, do they have a premade plug and play resistor for this one or doesn anyone know who does have one or do you just have to simply solder in a resistor?
> also is this the connector that causes the improper airflow cel?


 There is no premade connector for this. You also don't need a resistor... the improper flow code is going to be there until you get it coded out by a tuner. 



mhcooper84 said:


> does it have to be a 330ohm 10watt? radio shack only had 100w 10ohm will that work?


 Don't even bother with a resistor. Just tape up the connector to keep it sealed. Honestly - there is no functional need for a resistor on the SAI pump connector and you're just wasting money if you buy one.


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## mhcooper84 (Mar 15, 2012)

Im talking about for the n249


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

mhcooper84 said:


> Im talking about for the n249


 330 ohm, 1 watt 

p = v^2/r = 14.4^2/330 = 628 mW 

But honestly, go buy the pre-made resistor connectors. They are very nice and seal things up beautifully. Keep corrosion out of your electrical connectors.


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## 04_BMP_GLI (Jul 12, 2004)

I have an AWP engine. 

Can I remove the hardlines form the combi valve and leave the valve on the block? I'm not going to delete the SAI. I already have the N249 and PCV **** ripped out.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

04_BMP_GLI said:


> I have an AWP engine.
> 
> Can I remove the hardlines form the combi valve and leave the valve on the block? I'm not going to delete the SAI. I already have the N249 and PCV **** ripped out.


 I don't understand your question... 

With your deletes, the hardlines run lines for the EVAP and SAI. If you delete the hard lines you'll have to replace them with new vac lines for those two systems. 

With that said, yes you can remove the hard lines if you replace them with new vac lines.


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## 04_BMP_GLI (Jul 12, 2004)

The hardlines that I guess are bolted to combi valve, I can wiggle them like they're just sitting behind the combi valve and not welded to it. Can I remove the combi valve, remove those hardlines then put the combi valve back on the block? Wasn't planning on removing the sai or evap, just the PCV and N249 stuff. 


edit: 
Also, if I leave the combi valve on, what do I do to this hose that's on it that connects to one of the hardlines? Just cap it I assume?


----------



## ziggieboi (Jun 3, 2008)

04_BMP_GLI said:


> The hardlines that I guess are bolted to combi valve, I can wiggle them like they're just sitting behind the combi valve and not welded to it. Can I remove the combi valve, remove those hardlines then put the combi valve back on the block? Wasn't planning on removing the sai or evap, just the PCV and N249 stuff.
> 
> 
> edit:
> Also, if I leave the combi valve on, what do I do to this hose that's on it that connects to one of the hardlines? Just cap it I assume?


Yes, the valve is attached by the two bottom bolts, not welded. I don't remember the hard lines even being tied into the valve. I think they are just mounted on the coolant flange and are so close that it may be wiggling the valve. Remove the lower screw on the coolant flange and the hard lines should come loose. I think if you look back there the hard lines may be bolted down to the bracket attached to the valve, the bolt is behind the wires coming off the spark plugs. You have to disconnect the two clips and push back the wires to access the bolt.


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## a7x411 (Aug 6, 2010)

So basically what I'm getting from all this is if you remove your SAI, there's really no way to pass emissions?


----------



## EaTn RiCe (Mar 21, 2011)

unless you get unitronic,gonzo or eurodyne I believe. If im wrong im sure others will chime in.


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## 04_BMP_GLI (Jul 12, 2004)

ziggieboi said:


> Yes, the valve is attached by the two bottom bolts, not welded. I don't remember the hard lines even being tied into the valve. I think they are just mounted on the coolant flange and are so close that it may be wiggling the valve. Remove the lower screw on the coolant flange and the hard lines should come loose. I think if you look back there the hard lines may be bolted down to the bracket attached to the valve, the bolt is behind the wires coming off the spark plugs. You have to disconnect the two clips and push back the wires to access the bolt.




Yup, figured it out, forgot to update my post. The hard lines were bolted to the Combi valve. Unbolted them, removed them and put the Combi valve back on the engine. Capped off the line that was running to the hard line. 

Deleted the PCV, EVAP and N249. A few of lines for the PCV system were broken. Car runs much smoother now.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

a7x411 said:


> So basically what I'm getting from all this is if you remove your SAI, there's really no way to pass emissions?





EaTn RiCe said:


> unless you get unitronic,gonzo or eurodyne I believe. If im wrong im sure others will chime in.


It's such a grey area since almost every county in every state has a different way of testing emissions. In all honesty its a complete sh!tshow. Probably the easiest way to test is to run an emissions delete file and take your car to get inspected without removing all of the components. This way you will just have to reflash if you fail. :thumbup:

Maestro is another I believe that allows for emissions deletes.


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## ziggieboi (Jun 3, 2008)

04_BMP_GLI said:


> Yup, figured it out, forgot to update my post. The hard lines were bolted to the Combi valve. Unbolted them, removed them and put the Combi valve back on the engine. Capped off the line that was running to the hard line.
> 
> Deleted the PCV, EVAP and N249. A few of lines for the PCV system were broken. Car runs much smoother now.


I did a head rebuild and started putting all the damn hoses on when one was completely busted, after going to napa to unearth their cost for a new hose ($130.00), I decided to come in here and see what i could find. After reading up on a few posts I realized how much time I wasted and said phuck it, and pulled out all the BS. Saved me time and $$$$. Fun stuff! :beer:


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## a7x411 (Aug 6, 2010)

i guess its time to put the sai system back on, time for inspection =(


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## kesh808 (Feb 28, 2010)

Hey my car is doing this weird thing now after doing the complete delete. It feels like the gas is cutting out. If I leave my foot on the gas to speed up, or even just going a consistent speed, the car will lose all power, almost like I took it out of gear, and then the power will jerk back in. The power goes away for just about a second or two and then returns but it keeps doing this. It's like the engine is kind of sputtering. Sometimes it cuts out all the way and the car dies. Does anybody have any idea what could be going on?


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## Richardsa4 (May 19, 2009)

I have a Unitronic BT 630cc file running my car right now with the only delete being the cat. I'd love to clear up the clutter and removed the rest of these emissions. Will I need to send the ecu in to have it modified for the remaining emission deletes or could I just follow this process and be in good shape ?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

if you bought the uni tune new from an authorized dealer and it is within the first year of purchase, i am pretty sure it is 50$ to send it in and have this done.

if after 1 year, it is 100$.

if you are NOT the original buyer, you will need the original buyer's name and contact uni and have the license transfered for 150$, then you may request a change.

if you dont have the oridinal buyer's name, you can get luckey with the vin of the chassis, if the tuner recorded it in the sale. you should be bale to get the vin off a vag com scan of the ecu.


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## Richardsa4 (May 19, 2009)

I bought the car from a good friend of mine, so I am not the original owner. Unitronic had informed me of the $150 fee when I called about a separate question. I was just curious if I could use the current file with properly deleted emissions or if I should just pay all their fees and get the file changed accordingly before deleting anything.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

bump for finally removing my secondary air pump and that long ass hose. Wow so much room now without secondary air and n249!

kept evap though.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

ok so im not gonna read all 1000000 pages. ive read the first post and first few pages, and the last few pages....

i just got around to finally removing all the evap crap. i also removed the evap pump in the passanger fender wheel well.....

did you all leave it plugged in? i just got a CEL, will scan it tonight...i was going to resistor it but it is not a 2 wire plug, almost positive it was three.....and did not want to guess....


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

speed51133! said:


> ok so im not gonna read all 1000000 pages. ive read the first post and first few pages, and the last few pages....
> 
> i just got around to finally removing all the evap crap. i also removed the evap pump in the passanger fender wheel well.....
> 
> did you all leave it plugged in? i just got a CEL, will scan it tonight...i was going to resistor it but it is not a 2 wire plug, almost positive it was three.....and did not want to guess....


ugh, unless your 1.8T is different than every other N80 plug: http://www.intengineering.com/postreleased-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html


----------



## DustyVW337 (Apr 9, 2010)

I had not seen that plug before. What a clever idea!


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## vr6_nocorrectway (Jan 6, 2009)

done the diy now dv makes whip like noise when letting off of heavy boost. but not at 5 lbs. cant find any vacuum leaks either. i have not done any resistors yet. could that throw it off?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

18T_BT said:


> ugh, unless your 1.8T is different than every other N80 plug: http://www.intengineering.com/postreleased-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html


sorry..that is 2 prong ,and who said anythign about N80?!

I am talking about the evap pump that is behind the wheel liner. You have to jack the car up, remove the wheel well liner, and it is behind the liner. It is the pump for testing the system, and the pump is THREE pronged, NOT TWO......sorry to be annoyed, but you are annoyed at me for assuming something incorrect.

http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=754162

it is item 1 in the above link, and all the garbage that goes with it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-06-VW-Go...etection-Pump-OEM-1J0-906-201-B-/290639604503

the above link has one for sale on ebay, and you can CLEARLY see the three prongged plug


----------



## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

you will have evap codes unless the evap is deleted from the ecm programming. same as secondary air. pcv and n249 is ok as long as resistored.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

I have all emissions deletes...


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

is the computer flashed for emissions delete? 
Doesnt matter if you have resistors in the solenoid plugs or not, The programming still sees that there is incorrect secondary and evap flow.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Yes the magical Ecu box was sent out to santa's workshop for emissions deletes. 
Like I just said. I have emissions deletes.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

so the answer is, NO, you have not had your ecm programmed for emissions deletes


----------



## vr6_nocorrectway (Jan 6, 2009)

done the diy now dv makes whip like noise when letting off of heavy boost. but not at 5 lbs. cant find any vacuum leaks either. i have not done any resistors yet. could that throw it off?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Slimjimmn said:


> so the answer is, NO, you have not had your ecm programmed for emissions deletes


The answer is yes numb nuts. 
I swear whenever I have a technical question people here give advise like calling tech support....."try rebooting the computer"

The Ecu has all emissions deleted. Yes yes and yes.


----------



## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

speed51133! said:


> The answer is yes numb nuts.
> I swear whenever I have a technical question people here give advise like calling tech support....."try rebooting the computer"
> 
> The Ecu has all emissions deleted. Yes yes and yes.


Speed51133 - your answer is HERE.

Slimjimmn is missing your question.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Awesome. Thank you!


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

speed51133! said:


> sorry..that is 2 prong ,and who said anythign about N80?!
> 
> I am talking about the evap pump that is behind the wheel liner. You have to jack the car up, remove the wheel well liner, and it is behind the liner. It is the pump for testing the system, and the pump is THREE pronged, NOT TWO......sorry to be annoyed, but you are annoyed at me for assuming something incorrect.
> 
> ...



I am not annoyed, I was assuming you had the incorrect flow CEL which is caused by the N80 valve (Evaporative Vacuum Purge Valve) since you have all the emission deletes. Most people don't remove the LDP rather cap the hose that runs into the engine bay:










I have all emission deletes and I still had to resistor the N80 valve much like or jump the pins, whatever works.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

yep, thats the bastard pump i removed!

ill try jumping an outer to middle pin and hope i dont fry something....

this LDP removal jumping of the pins should go up on page 1.....


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

just an FYI, the leak detection pumps only purpose is to pressurize the gas tank and charcoal canister to check for leaks.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

vr6_nocorrectway said:


> done the diy now dv makes whip like noise when letting off of heavy boost. but not at 5 lbs. cant find any vacuum leaks either. i have not done any resistors yet. could that throw it off?


You need the resistors


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

This question was probably already asked but do you need the resistors if your running say Maestro with the emissions components disabled?


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## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

can i use this to delete evap and not throw code? 
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062319#


----------



## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

travis_gli said:


> This question was probably already asked but do you need the resistors if your running say Maestro with the emissions components disabled?


 This. 

I was told you dont need resistors. I dont have any running maestro all deletes. I was also wondering if it could be messing with me.


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

The ecu needs the circuit completed, so yes, you need resistors.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

20VCanuck said:


> This.
> 
> I was told you dont need resistors. I dont have any running maestro all deletes. I was also wondering if it could be messing with me.


 From what I've been reading if you don't use resistors your LTFT's go way out of whack. However I haven't had this experience personally.


----------



## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

it has been said a million times.... 

YOU ALWAYS NEED RESISTORS!!!!!!!! 

now only two components actually need them....... 

you can read to find out which ones....


----------



## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

speed51133! said:


> it has been said a million times....
> 
> YOU ALWAYS NEED RESISTORS!!!!!!!!
> 
> ...


 
I was told by cts with the big turbo maestro 7 files with emissions deletes you do not need resistors. 

I will toss some in for peice of mind. Anyone with maestro want to chime in on their experiences?


----------



## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

cant you just keep the sensors plugged in and to the side?


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

speed51133! said:


> it has been said a million times....
> 
> YOU ALWAYS NEED RESISTORS!!!!!!!!
> 
> ...


 This may have been the case from everybody but Maestro users. I haven't heard from any Maestro users about resistoring off such components. 



halchka99 said:


> cant you just keep the sensors plugged in and to the side?


 Sort of defeats the purpose of cleaning up your engine bay. :laugh:


----------



## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

I did a SAI,Evap,PCV, kombivalve, n249, n112, vac-resv delete the other day on my german B6 tank 










nevermind the toilet-paper where the filter sits 









runs like a champ, cell free I might add:thumbup:


----------



## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

You will need resistors on everything for fuel trims. 330 ohm 1 watt. You don't need a 10 watt resistor! I have been using 1 watt for almost 4000 miles now with no issues. 

However, even though the SAI and EVAP N80 circuits have been resistored, you will still get a code for them. Like this: 

SAI- Improper flow 
EVAP- EVAP leak detection 

They will need to be written out of the tune. Then your check engine light will be off and you will pass readiness


----------



## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

So will u still get a cel when u put a resistor in the evap sensor?


----------



## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

Yeah, you will. The EVAP emissions test that is run by the ECU uses a pump to create a vacuum in the fuel tank. Since the purge valve (N80) is not present, it detects a leak and throws the code.


----------



## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

So who do I send the ecu out to and how much does it usually cost?


----------



## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

I believe most tuning companies will do it, you could just find the nearest vendor and give them a call. I had mine done by Gonzo Tuning in Delaware for around $50.


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Eurodyne (my fav) or Unitronic are the best, and both can easily ditch the readiness stuff :thumbup:


----------



## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

Has anyone had any problems with bending the resistor and shoving them in instead of actually soldering them?


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## K20017 (Nov 14, 2007)

I have done that for a temporary fix. It worked well for 1000 miles or so but I wouldn't recommend it since it could fall out completely or 1 lead could come out and come in contact with a ground and possibly cause a fire hazard.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

K20017 said:


> I have done that for a temporary fix. It worked well for 1000 miles or so but I wouldn't recommend it since it could fall out completely or 1 lead could come out and come in contact with a ground and possibly cause a fire hazard.


 agreed. also, if you have all the deletes in your software, you shouldnt have to resistor anything. I have not resistored a single thing i've deleted in the emissions


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> agreed. also, if you have all the deletes in your software, you shouldnt have to resistor anything. I have not resistored a single thing i've deleted in the emissions


 It hasn't thrown your LTFT's askew at all?


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

Big_Tom said:


> agreed. also, if you have all the deletes in your software, you shouldnt have to resistor anything. I have not resistored a single thing i've deleted in the emissions


 you would be getting better gas mialage if you did resistor...


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## 20VCanuck (Mar 11, 2011)

Big_Tom said:


> agreed. also, if you have all the deletes in your software, you shouldnt have to resistor anything. I have not resistored a single thing i've deleted in the emissions


 I have nothing resistored and I believe I have all the deletes checked off. I think they were all checked by default when I flashed it.. But I am not throwing any codes because of it so I guess all thats in order. but I have zero fuel trim adapation. 

Block 32 is all 0


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Big_Tom said:


> agreed. also, if you have all the deletes in your software, you shouldnt have to resistor anything. I have not resistored a single thing i've deleted in the emissions


 
Wow. :banghead: This thread still blows me away... 


You MUST resistor the N80 for a proper running car. The N80 valve plays an active role in how the car is fueled. It must be done. 

VVT, SAI, N249 Only need resistors to clear the CE light if you can't do it with software.


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

It still amazes me that people are skimping on a $2 electrical device when you only need 4 of them. It is better to keep the entire engine harness in closed loop, period. Don't think you made out like a bandit b/c your CEL isn't on without resistors. :sly:


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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

I used this, plug and play:thumbup:
http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Those look kick ass^ 
Might have to get 3 for a SAI pump missing, Evap, and n249 is that isn't coded out. 

I just sent my 2002 TT 225 ECU and cash to "reflected" for the delete. 
Let's hope he doesn't steal my money :laugh:

Even though I have a Unitronic tune they won't write a delete file for my car,
Apr doesn't force readiness,
Gonzo never emails back or picks up his phone,

Whatever as long as it works.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

just hope he doesnt smoke your ecu. 

If all the stars align you will be happy. My 2nd ecu turned out just fine. :thumbup:


----------



## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Slimjimmn said:


> just hope he doesnt smoke your ecu.
> 
> If all the stars align you will be happy. My 2nd ecu turned out just fine. :thumbup:


Ohhh god really?
What happened to the first one?


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## BoostedGLS0218 (Dec 10, 2011)

Slimjimmn said:


> just hope he doesnt smoke your ecu.
> 
> If all the stars align you will be happy. My 2nd ecu turned out just fine. :thumbup:


He's destroyed your ECU?
I was considering paying him if gonzo couldn't hook me up.


----------



## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

I suppose ill let you know if my ECU still works.


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## BoostedGLS0218 (Dec 10, 2011)

^^ do so please.


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## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

I called unitrnoic yesterday and they told me that even with a tune and resistors I would never pass emissions in new hampshire with stuff deleted. Is this true?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

yeabmx said:


> I called unitrnoic yesterday and they told me that even with a tune and resistors I would never pass emissions in new hampshire with stuff deleted. Is this true?


Some state emissions stations will reset your readiness prior to reading and since these software deletes force readiness to pass immediately, they will see that the ECU has been tampered with. Just bring a $100 bill with you and give it to the guy with the computer.


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## yeabmx (Feb 8, 2011)

Haha now there's a good idea!


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

VWstung said:


> Ohhh god really?
> What happened to the first one?


bad hardware

it happens when bench flashing and also de-soldering chips.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Oh okay, not worried at all. No soldering involved here and I have faith in him.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

de-soldering to de-immobilize the ecu. 

all the emissions is flash related, which can burn a ecu out if not done correctly.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Okay so just got my ECU back from username "reflected"
Here is my unofficial review.

He responds very quickly to pm's but only awnsers with 2 or 3 words. (Sorta sketched me out)
$50 for the file and $18 for overnight shipping and 4 days later I have forced readiness. :thumbup:

Sent the ECU Monday
He got it Tuesday 
Sent it back to me on Wednesday
Installed it on Thursday. 

Plugged it in and the car turned over normally and ran fine with no warning lights flashing at me.
He was able to write his own file without tampering with my Unitronic stage 1+ remap.

I still have all my emission pieces still installed and am looking forward to ripping them out.

Overall I'm happy with his services.
Hope this helps some people.


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## BoostedGLS0218 (Dec 10, 2011)

VWstung said:


> Okay so just got my ECU back from username "reflected"
> Here is my unofficial review.
> 
> He responds very quickly to pm's but only awnsers with 2 or 3 words. (Sorta sketched me out)
> ...


That's great to hear! I'll have to keep him in mind in the near future :thumbup:


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## Paulbag (Jun 5, 2012)

Just as I need this, the pictures stop working  lol


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## VWDUBLUVIN (Apr 3, 2011)

Someone fix this!!! Like to see it myself  

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

VWstung said:


> Okay so just got my ECU back from username "reflected"
> Here is my unofficial review.
> 
> He responds very quickly to pm's but only awnsers with 2 or 3 words. (Sorta sketched me out)
> ...


Good deal. How does it run now 4 days later?


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Everything is still working normally. 
I ordered the intergrated engineering block off plate and oem plug resistors and will finish my delete this weekend.

Maybe even have the first TT 225 DIY for you peoples


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

So I know how to do all the ecu deletes but I am having trouble with the LTFT issue related to just disabling CEL codes.

I am still getting CEL for EVAP LDP OPEN CIRCUIT, now I can just turn this off via ecu code but I will get no LTFT. This makes it really hard to tune for unknown injectors.

To those of you that have done this how are you resistoring out the 3 pronged evap ldp plug?

This Plug









this is what bentley says:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

us, thats not the LDP buddy.

I think thats the AC high pressure switch.

LDP is in the passenger rear fender liner area


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## StateSideS3 (Apr 13, 2007)

so has anyone ran into the issue now in NY, NJ and some other states that the inspection computer can tell u have forced readiness codes and you will fail with it!!! :banghead:

im looking to do the whole delete on my TT but unitronic is telling me even if they write them all out that now inspections can catch the forced readiness codes


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## Cheney (May 29, 2006)

Before I went to state inspection in May/June, I went to a local shop that did inspections. They ran the test so it didn't forward the information back to the state. At the time of the test, it had a Uni Stage 2 flash with no deletes. I would have failed. VAGCOM showed everything ready and complete, the inspection showed, I believe, 3 not ready/incomplete. They do not reset readiness, they just see right though the software. I have the test report somewhere. I had to flash it back to stock to pass, but almost failed the visual inspection. They now have cameras the car drives over, when they didn't see a cat, they looked under the hood. I convinced them the resonator was a high flow cat. On the stock tune, and the secondary O2 spacer from 42DD, I didn't get a cat efficiency code. I recommend stock or Stage 1 and a local shop that doesn't care about visual inspection.

As for the deletes, I wanted to get inspection done before I did the deletes. I will be leaving EVAP in and removing everything else. Come time for inspection again, I will just have to put the SAI and combivalve back in and flash back to stock. :banghead:
I believe you can pass with one incomplete. If this is true, you should be able to remove EVAP as well so long as resistors keep codes from coming up. Then all you would have to reinstall is the SAI system.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

Slimjimmn said:


> us, thats not the LDP buddy.
> 
> I think thats the AC high pressure switch.
> 
> LDP is in the passenger rear fender liner area


It may be that, it was the only three pronged plug I could find. Its been so long since I removed all this crap I cannot remember if I pushed the connector through.

Also TT has the LDP in the engine bayu I though.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

ejg3855 said:


> It may be that, it was the only three pronged plug I could find. Its been so long since I removed all this crap I cannot remember if I pushed the connector through.
> 
> Also TT has the LDP in the engine bayu I though.


 hmm not sure about TT location. On mk4 its bolted to the evap canister in the right rear wheel well behind fender liner under bumper.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

Slimjimmn said:


> hmm not sure about TT location. On mk4 its bolted to the evap canister in the right rear wheel well behind fender liner under bumper.


gonna look tomo

Sent from my phone forgive auto correct errors


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## Malefactor (Aug 23, 2012)

This looks like it would be awesome, but... i can't see the pics. Some of the reply's i can see the pics of what they took out, but the actual DIY doesn't show anything... 

Don't think i'm good enough to do the whole DIY w/ the resistors ect, but i'm in a state where Emissons have to be met, and this CEL is driving me NUTS... I know i'm good enough to replace vacuum hoses and such if i can just find the stupid P.O.S., but it's eluded me thus far on it's exact location. 

I'm very much a visual type person, so if someone can throw a pic out of what the SAI looks like inside the engine bay and where, i can take it from there. I know the SAI itself is still good because there's no whistling or "shop vacuum" sound when i cold start, and the CEL will come on for about a week and then turn itself off for a couple weeks. Pops back up everytime though. I'm thinking i've either got a loose connection or one of the vacuum tubes are leaking. Any help is appreciated.

Btw, i have the '02 Jetta 1.8T GLS


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## BoostedGLS0218 (Dec 10, 2011)

Malefactor said:


> This looks like it would be awesome, but... i can't see the pics. Some of the reply's i can see the pics of what they took out, but the actual DIY doesn't show anything...
> 
> Don't think i'm good enough to do the whole DIY w/ the resistors ect, but i'm in a state where Emissons have to be met, and this CEL is driving me NUTS... I know i'm good enough to replace vacuum hoses and such if i can just find the stupid P.O.S., but it's eluded me thus far on it's exact location.
> 
> ...


I'm having a similar kind of problem here. I'd suggest if you can do a pressure test on your intake tract post maf and plug the pcv system. Use some soapy water to point out leaky spots. 

The sai tubes look kind of like the vacuum hoses on a shop vac except smaller. One goes to the intake and another clips onto the braket in front of the intake manifold and goes to the combi valve. Check that they are properly connected and seated to everything as well as this'll introduce a loud whistle and a vacuum leak as well. 

Currently I know which hoses are problem hoses so I'm not doing a pressure test I'm just going to repipe all the lines off the intake mani. A close inspection of them shows a lot of cracking and bad seals on the mani due to heat cycling the rubber so many times.


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## Malefactor (Aug 23, 2012)

Cool, so I'll just follow those back to where they originate and work my way out. What I'm gonna do to make sure I get it all is just buy a whole bunch of vacuum tubing from autozone and clamps, then replace every line connected to the system to be sure. I don't need that oem fitted crap. They break too easy. I'll just do my own with rubber hosing instead of that hard plastic crap that falls apart in a year or two. Coating each hose in blue rtv does an awesome job of keeping it flexible, weather proof and rot resistant. Good old shade tree mechanic trick.

And yeah when on a cold start I can hear a light whistling now when the sai is active, but only if I'm outside and right next to the engine. So, most likely a leaky vacuum line since it's not even close to as loud as the youtube videos I've seen of an actual bad sai. Unless it's just starting to go bad, and will get worse.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

:thumbup:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Malefactor said:


> And yeah when on a cold start I can hear a light whistling now when the sai is active, but only if I'm outside and right next to the engine. So, most likely a leaky vacuum line since it's not even close to as loud as the youtube videos I've seen of an actual bad sai. Unless it's just starting to go bad, and will get worse.


you can do a search for sai pump problems on here. The rivets crack and the pump pushes air through the cracks instead of the pipes to the combi valve on the head. 

I have a good used pump and all the sai stuff if u needopcorn:


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## Malefactor (Aug 23, 2012)

Slimjimmn said:


> you can do a search for sai pump problems on here. The rivets crack and the pump pushes air through the cracks instead of the pipes to the combi valve on the head.
> 
> I have a good used pump and all the sai stuff if u needopcorn:


If so, that'd be awesome. I've rebuilt old 70's and some 80's cars from an engine block out, so removing parts and replacing them I'm good with. All these electrical crap and extra hoses in this thing makes me nervous doing the full delete like I said. Here in Dallas Tx, most places so much as even see a CEL will immediately deny inspection. Won't even run a scan on it. So, yeah, I can send a M.O. or something for shipping. Wouldn't hurt to even have a backup even if mine's good and you're just gonna toss yours *lol*.


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

Not sure why the pictures are down. I'm pretty sure I sent them to Vortex management to be hosted by them. For those of you who need pics or a visual aid, I one-upped myself. I've got a DIY video shot from a head-mounted GoPro right here. The part 2 video is for the brake booster delete too.


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## Malefactor (Aug 23, 2012)

That is truly awesome. I couldn't ask for better than that. Thank you! Now i just gotta get a hold of a spare SAI just in case and maybe a Combi Valve *lol*. Then i'm gonna start ripping into this thing. May even go ahead and do it to swap out the vac lines anyways, and will just have to do it all over again if it is the SAI. Finally get rid of this CEL.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Malefactor said:


> That is truly awesome. I couldn't ask for better than that. Thank you! Now i just gotta get a hold of a spare SAI just in case and maybe a Combi Valve *lol*. Then i'm gonna start ripping into this thing. May even go ahead and do it to swap out the vac lines anyways, and will just have to do it all over again if it is the SAI. Finally get rid of this CEL.


i'll sell all my old stuff to ya:sly:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

VWstung said:


> Everything is still working normally.
> I ordered the intergrated engineering block off plate and oem plug resistors and will finish my delete this weekend.
> 
> Maybe even have the first TT 225 DIY for you peoples


 Try disconnecting some sensors in you engine bay and let me know how your check engine llight doesn't come on and also check readiness 001 mvb and see how its not 11111111 all across meaning readiness is _NOT _finally set :thumbdown:


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## vdubluvinn (Jul 15, 2011)

no pics


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

vdubluvinn said:


> no pics


Petition to vortex about it. Or click the DIY video link in my sig and watch the video which will walk you thru it better than this written guide.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

vdubluvinn said:


> no pics


 You can check out my DIY as well, between Savvv's video and our writeups, it should be a breeze. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Slimjimmn said:


> Try disconnecting some sensors in you engine bay and let me know how your check engine llight doesn't come on and also check readiness 001 mvb and see how its not 11111111 all across meaning readiness is _NOT _finally set :thumbdown:


 What you talking about? 
I got everything out and its all good


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I said disconnect a maf sensor or map and it won't set a code. heck I unplugged my throttled body and it didn't set aa code. 
The readiness isn't set either, it's not all 1's , so at the emissions station it will fail.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

I got a CEL last night when I finished my deleted by pulling the evap, because I unplugged that thing in the fender liner. And Idk about my readiness I haven't checked yet. I would probably still fail NJ inspection because they can detect forced readiness by cycling it to ready and failed.


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## c0r3y.af (Oct 8, 2009)

Looks like pics aren't working which is a shame because I was hoping to put this guide to use soon. Hope it's just a bandwidth issue


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

VWstung said:


> I got a CEL last night when I finished my deleted by pulling the evap, because I unplugged that thing in the fender liner. And Idk about my readiness I haven't checked yet. I would probably still fail NJ inspection because they can detect forced readiness by cycling it to ready and failed.


i pulled out the sai pump, which is in the front left wheel well on a TT.
i THINK I get a cel for it, no matter what is coded or resistored.

it is a 3 prong plug. i have been told by people here to jump one of the outer ones to the middle one.
they were not sure which outer one....

since not many people remove the pump itself, there isnt much info on it.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Just a heads up,

If your looking to resistor the n112, n249, n75 or the evap a 1/2 watt 330ohm resistor works just fine.
Same resistor found in the IE OEM style plugs.
$1 for a six pack at Radio Shack

Weird nobody caught on that a 10watt is too big to fit inside the IE product :screwy:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

VWstung said:


> Weird nobody caught on that a 10watt is too big to fit inside the IE product :screwy:


The resistor power ratings has been covered many times. FYI


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Yes I know, everybody says you *have to use 10watt*
I'm just saying a much smaller 1/2watt does the trick and is easier to find.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

VWstung said:


> Just a heads up,
> 
> If your looking to resistor the n112, n249, n75 or the evap a 1/2 watt 330ohm resistor works just fine.
> Same resistor found in the IE OEM style plugs.
> ...


Technically not true. The resistor in the pre-made plugs you'd get from IE are rated for 1 watt. Technically, at a nominal voltage of 14.4 volts, with a resistor of 330 ohms, you'd be dissipating ~0.63W of power. That's obviously more than 1/2 watt, and it would be slightly worse if you have that resistor wrapped up or encapsulated or something.

It's not gonna blow your car up or anything, certainly, but it's simple to see a 1 watt is what you really want.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

toby lawrence said:


> Technically not true. The resistor in the pre-made plugs you'd get from IE are rated for 1 watt. Technically, at a nominal voltage of 14.4 volts, with a resistor of 330 ohms, you'd be dissipating ~0.63W of power. That's obviously more than 1/2 watt, and it would be slightly worse if you have that resistor wrapped up or encapsulated or something.
> 
> It's not gonna blow your car up or anything, certainly, but it's simple to see a 1 watt is what you really want.


x2

1 Watt FTW


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Sweet deal,
I'll see if I can grab a pack of 1watts 

My IE OEM resistor burnt up so 1 band was hard to make out.
Ended up buying half watt cause it matched the size and the band's I could make out


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Bands dont generally show power

They just show value, precision, and tolerance


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

VWstung said:


> My IE OEM resistor burnt up


This is why I've always thought that it is a much better idea to run the much higher wattage resistors. 

Safety margin + Durability :thumbup:

Im skurred of electrical fires


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

No no, sorry. I didn't really specify why.....

I didn't secure the wire and the whole plug fell onto the exhaust manifold..... literally burnt everything off, the harness side plug was gone too. Actually the only thing left was bare wires and the resistor ( obviously destroyed) 

Cut the harness back to a safe point and sottered a new one in.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

VWstung said:


> No no, sorry. I didn't really specify why.....
> 
> I didn't secure the wire and the whole plug fell onto the exhaust manifold..... literally burnt everything off, the harness side plug was gone too. Actually the only thing left was bare wires and the resistor ( obviously destroyed)
> 
> Cut the harness back to a safe point and sottered a new one in.


Lol. Very different from what you were implying before, lol


----------



## cubano717 (Aug 6, 2010)

can someone upload an archived copy with photos?


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## redmk2bunny (Jul 26, 2007)

Yes I need pictures otherwise my brain hurts... :sly:


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

cubano717 said:


> can someone upload an archived copy with photos?





redmk2bunny said:


> Yes I need pictures otherwise my brain hurts... :sly:


I had Vortex host them b/c they used to be on my HostDub account (not many still around that remember that site :laugh: ). Go to the link in my sig and there's a video, even better than PICTURES.


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## robbyrr (May 9, 2009)

im in the process of doing a narrowband to wideband swap and originally have no sai but with the new wideband ecu,the ecu thinks i have it so it needs to be resistored,i get that.

But if i look at the ecu pinout i see that the sai also has a relay,the J299, do you guys resistor that too?
will it affect my adaptation if i only resistor the N112 plug and not have a J299 relay?

Thanks!:beer:


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

robbyrr said:


> im in the process of doing a narrowband to wideband swap and originally have no sai but with the new wideband ecu,the ecu thinks i have it so it needs to be resistored,i get that.
> 
> But if i look at the ecu pinout i see that the sai also has a relay,the J299, do you guys resistor that too?
> will it affect my adaptation if i only resistor the N112 plug and not have a J299 relay?
> ...


This has been mentioned more than a few times, but here it goes:

The SAI pump does not need to be resistored. It's driven by a relay, which is in turn controlled by the ECU. There is no feedback path for the ECU to actually detect if the SAI pump itself is connected or working. The only check it can do is to see if the air/fuel ratio goes leaner when it thinks the pump should be on. This is why you'll get the "SAI improper flow" code when you remove the pump.. it doesn't know the pump is gone, but it knows there is a lack of extra airflow it expects to be there.

You have to code this out in software. There is no other way. You either leave the pump connected entirely (like, combi valve and tubing, etc) or you remove it and code it out in software. .. or you can deal with having the CEL on.


----------



## robbyrr (May 9, 2009)

thanks for the reply!

I know i have to code it out,and i will with meastro.

But first i have to do a ecu swap and my car has no vvt no sai..so now i have a ecu who thinks i have got a sai,so i know i have to resistor it but when i looked at the ecu pin outs is see two of them relating to the sai

-pin 66=going to nr2 of J22(Secondary air pump relay)
-pin 9 = going to N112(Secondary air inlet valve)

so i got confused which one to resistor since they both go to the ecu.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

robbyrr said:


> thanks for the reply!
> 
> I know i have to code it out,and i will with meastro.
> 
> ...


If you resistor the things you'd normally resistor, then you'd end up only resistoring the N112 signal, not the signal to the SAI pump control relay. Just treat it like normal. Resistor the valves and solenoids, not the pump.


----------



## robbyrr (May 9, 2009)

cool,thanks!:thumbup:

though im still wondering if it wont throw a code because there is no J299 relay..and more important,if adaptation will work..


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

robbyrr said:


> cool,thanks!:thumbup:
> 
> though im still wondering if it wont throw a code because there is no J299 relay..and more important,if adaptation will work..


Again, this have been covered a million times over. Resistor the N80 valve and the N112 valve. You'll keep adaptation.

You'll have codes for open circuits on the N249 if you don't resistor it, but it won't affect adaptation.

There, you're done.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

toby lawrence said:


> Again, this have been covered a million times over. Resistor the N80 valve and the N112 valve. You'll keep adaptation.
> 
> You'll have codes for open circuits on the N249 if you don't resistor it, but it won't affect adaptation.
> 
> There, you're done.


Updated the electrical section of the FAQ with this information for clarity.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

groggory said:


> Updated the electrical section of the FAQ with this information for clarity.


Wewp wewp~!


----------



## robbyrr (May 9, 2009)

i was only referring to the J299 relay,and could not find any info about it,but it's clear now,thanks:beer:


----------



## botange (Feb 20, 2012)

*SAI delete help*

Really interested in doing this mod, anyone got pics of what it should look like cause the original I do not see the pics that were originally posted


----------



## BDodsonVR6 (Apr 12, 2009)

bump from the dead, anyway to restore pics?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

BDodsonVR6 said:


> bump from the dead, anyway to restore pics?


Take it up with Vortex as they're the ones that hosted them. Til then, go to the links in my sig. I made video DIY's that should help you even more so than the pictures.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

If you don't want to watch Savv's awesome videos, you can hop over to my thread that has the full picture write-up. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete


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## Moist Celery (Nov 5, 2012)

Any way we could get the pics back up in this thread?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

Moist Celery said:


> Any way we could get the pics back up in this thread?


 Please read the last couple posts before yours :facepalm:


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Probably one of the best words of advice I can give you is to watch that video of Sav's WHILE you do this. It's really helpful to have a visual step by step. It's also not a bad idea to watch it at least once before you do the work. I've heard people complain about how long the videos are, and to those people I say this: How long do you think this job is going to take? It's gonna take a while. Proper prior preparation prevents piss poor performance folks!!


----------



## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

FTMFW said:


> Probably one of the best words of advice I can give you is to watch that video of Sav's WHILE you do this. It's really helpful to have a visual step by step. It's also not a bad idea to watch it at least once before you do the work. I've heard people complain about how long the videos are, and to those people I say this: How long do you think this job is going to take? It's gonna take a while. Proper prior preparation prevents piss poor performance folks!!


 :thumbup::thumbup: 

What alot of people may not realize is that video has lots of editing done...ie. 8x frame rate and cut sections. Having to film and speak it probably took ~3 hours or so but if you watch it ahead of time you can probably finish in ~2. I'm amazed, though, that even to the lengths I went there are still people complaining about SOMETHING. I mean if y'all wanna pay me to fly out to your garage and bring a hooker to rub one out for ya while I do the job, p/m me. :laugh:


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Savvv said:


> I mean if y'all wanna pay me to fly out to your garage and bring a hooker to rub one out for ya while I do the job, p/m me. :laugh:


Let's expand on this....


----------



## svalente (Jan 14, 2012)

FTMFW said:


> Let's expand on this....



Agreed... I'm up in detroit, I can get a pretty cheap hooker haha. Totally worth it.


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## Flowaudiste (Jan 31, 2013)

*Sai n249*

Hi im french scuze for my english but i not look your image for the SAI n249 ect You can post your picture because i want proced to modif from my a3 150 and my s3 but my s3 i do it its easy because it is an AMK but my a3 its pomp secaid air it s no easy : Confused:


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## rkm246 (Apr 11, 2012)

will you pass nys emissions with the delete?


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## vdubN228 (Aug 14, 2006)

I cannot see the photography or load it in another link.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

vdubN228 said:


> I cannot see the photography or load it in another link.


has been covered a million times. not OP's fault.


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

Vegeta Gti said:


> has been covered a million times. not OP's fault.


This really outa be locked :facepalm:


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

people just don't READ..they look for pictures. if none they fukn FLIP...kjdlahdbfvlahdb


:facepalm:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

the best part is dude made video for people: https://www.google.com/search?q=+SA...56,d.dmQ&fp=830a3bbf9ed9ef31&biw=1280&bih=885


why can't you SeArcHHHHHHH?


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## SofaKingYllw (Nov 8, 2011)

I did this mod and my exhaust is throwing a lot of smoke from burning oil. Anyone shed any light on this?


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## pattrick (Apr 15, 2011)

SofaKingYllw said:


> I did this mod and my exhaust is throwing a lot of smoke from burning oil. Anyone shed any light on this?


i get this too after the mod.:banghead:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

pattrick said:


> i get this too after the mod.:banghead:


Please post a drawing you've made of all of your hose routing and sensors that you've made any changes to. Perhaps you have something hooked up wrong.


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## SofaKingYllw (Nov 8, 2011)

groggory said:


> Please post a drawing you've made of all of your hose routing and sensors that you've made any changes to. Perhaps you have something hooked up wrong.


Figured it out. The inlet of the catch can I bought was too small, vapors backed up in crank case. Temporarily bypassed the catch can. 
Met up with Mr. Savko yesterday, we both had a good laugh.


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## JusTurbo (May 29, 2013)

so whats the cost in parts of this cleanup including a say $150 catch can? also, what size inlet does the catch can need in order for it to not burn oil?


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

JusTurbo said:


> so whats the cost in parts of this cleanup including a say $150 catch can? also, what size inlet does the catch can need in order for it to not burn oil?


You're maybe talking $40ish? IE Block Off Plate, 4 resistors, and some vac tubing and clamps/zip ties from your local auto parts store is all you're gonna need. You're gonna want a can with -12 AN or 3/4" OD ports. That's the size of the OEM ports on the valve cover and oil filter housing. It makes for bigger hose from Point A to Point B however tests have shown that larger diameter hose slows the air velocity of the escaping crankcase pressure. Slower velocity = less oil pickup. Goal is for the catch can to not remove tons of oil from your sump, but rather keep the condensation from entering the intake. Now, if people making catch cans and catch can adapter fittings would take a lesson from VW and how they built their cars to take 3/4" line anyways, there'd be no questions.


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## Cheshiresport (Apr 10, 2009)

Great thread :thumbup:


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## obisbis (Aug 10, 2013)

*can't see the pictures*

H


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## Raw Beats (Dec 13, 2013)

ahhh so 48 pages later....

anybody know how similar or different this process is for a 24v VR6 jetta? saw the DIY vids from Sav but its a bit different...


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## koko5869 (Feb 15, 2006)

Raw Beats said:


> ahhh so 48 pages later....
> 
> anybody know how similar or different this process is for a 24v VR6 jetta? saw the DIY vids from Sav but its a bit different...


With the 24v, it's pretty much the same. You can get rid of the secondary air with the resistor. You'll still get an incorrect flow code, same as the 1.8's. Evap is a resistor. You won't have to worry about the bs turbo stuff... N249 and all that jazz. 

If you need anything, send me a pm. 

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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## Raw Beats (Dec 13, 2013)

*Evap & sai*



Much easier than I had initially anticipated..


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## vwdirector (Jan 31, 2006)

" Soldered one end of the resistor to the wire from pin 115 you added, and the other end of the resistor into the evap solenoid harness at pin#1. "

Hi, I'm trying to figure out what the Evan solenoid harness is? Forgive me if its a dumb question guy lol


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## connorsev1996 (Jul 5, 2017)

*love this site*

i cant wait tobe aproved on this forum so i can view all the pics and do it myself


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## Ivanratikan (Aug 31, 2019)

So helpful! 
It sucks undoing previous owners shortcomings....


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## Ivanratikan (Aug 31, 2019)

Very helpful!
Thank you


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## Ivanratikan (Aug 31, 2019)

Need pictures... My car is dying...


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

hopefully someone can comment

I'm swapping a 1.8T into my corrado and will be deleting all the mentioned emissions equipment.

now as far as electronics are concerned, do i even need to bother with any of the resistors if i'm not concerned about CEL's....it's been like 8 years since i drove my corrado but i don't even remember there being a CEL never mind it being active once my swap is done


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## koalateatimes (Aug 19, 2019)

Could there be at some point an updated thread with pictures like there were before? I would greatly appreciate that.


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

koalateatimes said:


> Could there be at some point an updated thread with pictures like there were before? I would greatly appreciate that.


Go to Vimeo and look for these. The SAVwKO username was banned many moons ago (can’t remember why :laugh and thus the original photo links won’t ever get fixed. Thus I made those DIY videos.


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## Kramer5702 (Apr 21, 2019)

Is there a how-to on the Beetles? Almost all our line placements are different than on the Jettas most commonly shown and my feeble mind gets confused easily lol Thank you!


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## Savvv (Apr 22, 2009)

Kramer5702 said:


> Is there a how-to on the Beetles? Almost all our line placements are different than on the Jettas most commonly shown and my feeble mind gets confused easily lol Thank you!


Not that I know of. Don’t worry about line placement so much as where the lines connect at both ends. The equipment is the same. Just because the lines are routed differently doesn’t mean they can’t come out.


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## Kramer5702 (Apr 21, 2019)

Savvv said:


> Not that I know of. Don’t worry about line placement so much as where the lines connect at both ends. The equipment is the same. Just because the lines are routed differently doesn’t mean they can’t come out.


Ok, thank you. Just the differences with the power steering reservoir and some of those lines is where I get confused. Thanks for the response, I know this is an old thread


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## koalateatimes (Aug 19, 2019)

Savvv said:


> Not that I know of. Don’t worry about line placement so much as where the lines connect at both ends. The equipment is the same. Just because the lines are routed differently doesn’t mean they can’t come out.


Didn’t VW setup the Beetle engine bay similar to the Audi TT engine bay? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## adiusa (Nov 22, 2021)

Where did all the pictures go?


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## Munchenator79 (Nov 16, 2017)

adiusa said:


> Where did all the pictures go?


Old thread so probably no longer supported. I see it is pretty common on here, unfortunately  

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## MiltDoggie (Jun 30, 2020)

adiusa said:


> Where did all the pictures go?







This video covers its all


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