# What schedule of oil changes for very low car use?



## SwampBuggie (Jun 9, 2003)

I have a 2003 Jetta Wagon 1.8T with 150K miles.

Here's. my situation. I am in the situation in which I go away for most of the year, and pretty much only come back to visit and drive my car once a year for about a month, in which I only put on about 2K miles (if even that!) for that period. As I understand it, I *should* ge the oil change every year then. However since I get the synthetic, I am loathe to put out that kind of cash if I could get away with changing the oil every other year.

What do you think I should do? And what about the other maintenance issues that go by mileage? It may be a LONG time until I hit my next 40K or even 20K!


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## rdezsofi (Sep 21, 2010)

Wow, what a scenario. You shouldn't own a turbo. An air cooled vw is in order, but that comes with other issues The problem here is you need to run synthetic because of the turbo. Regular motor oil doesn't handle the heat as well, and you've heard the sludge issues with it. I'd still change the oil every time you get back home...with synthetic. The issues you will face can be problematic. Just for starters:

A. Old fuel. Gasoline starts to break down within 3 months. You can get varnish buildup. Plugs up filters, gums up pumps, injectors, etc. If you don't drain the fuel system, you might use the fuel preservative most people use in their boats. I've used fuel a year later with the stuff added....not in my boat though.....I save my leftover fuel for the lawnmower! If you drain the fuel system, you invite corrosion, so that's not an answer either. I'd say a full tank to prevent condensation with the additive. You can buy it at WalMart for a little cheaper or any auto parts store.

B. Dry engine starts. A year means 99% of the oil has completely drained to the pan. When you start it up, it'll be bone dry. Might want to pull the fuel pump fuse before cranking it over, so it doesn't fire.....I wouldn't start it until I had oil pressure showing on the gauge. Consult the dealer for their recommendation on the best way to do this without triggering a check engine light/trouble code.

C. I'm hoping you store the car in a garage protected from the weather. If you can have someone start the car and at least warm it up every 2 weeks, that would be ideal. A car that sits that long without being used, will develop a lot of issues. Corrosion inside calipers where the piston and seals are not working, master cylinder, etc, etc. Tires can develop flat spots, deformed sidewalls, so it should be up on jack stands.

D. Another boaters trick is winterizing the engine. Basically just because it isn't going to be used for 6 months. Pull the plugs and spray an engine fogger inside. (Just an oil mist basically.) Don't spray it in your intake, it's not meant for MAF sensors, etc.


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## SwampBuggie (Jun 9, 2003)

I'm near the Gulf Coast (USA), so the winters are not hard at all. I keep the car outside.

Interesting that you bring up the master cylinder. I have a thread for the brakes in which I discussed the strange vibration I get when I actuate the brakes hard, especially at high speeds. Could that be a master cylinder issue?


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## rdezsofi (Sep 21, 2010)

That sounds like warped discs. As for the master cylinder, just sitting and not being used....then a year later you go and use it.....don't be surprised if it starts leaking. After it sits for a long time, it's a good idea to cycle the pedal all the way several times....then check for leaks.


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## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

My guess it that's it's deposits and/or rust on the rotors from sitting outside for so long. Try bedding and the pads again when you drive it next time. I'd also recommend you not have a friend start it up and idle it every few weeks unless it's driven around to operating temperature.


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