# P0201, 0202, 0203, 0204 on after replacing injectors.



## Chris_V (Jun 18, 2009)

Had a bad injector on an '03 Beetle 2.0 causing a no start situation. Decided to replace all injectors, now it won't start and it's throwing all those codes (open circuit for all injectors). Wiring is good, all connectors are tight, and of course the injectors are new. 

Checked the fuse and it's good.

Also getting a code for the 02 sensor heater circuit, which wasn't happening before replacing the injectors. Is there a connector somewhere that I'm missing?

Also, this 2.0 is different from every 2.0 I've seen online and in wrecking yards. It has the big box intake manifold, rather than the multiple round runner intake. Is it Beetle specific, which is why I can't find info on it online?

This engine:










not this engine:


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

Yeah that's a Beetle-specific engine (BGD I think).

Exactly what codes are you getting? How did you confirm the presence of a single faulty injector?


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## Chris_V (Jun 18, 2009)

Anony00GT said:


> Yeah that's a Beetle-specific engine (BGD I think).
> 
> Exactly what codes are you getting? How did you confirm the presence of a single faulty injector?


I'm getting the exact codes in the title. P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204. Prior to this, it wasn't starting when the PO had it, and it was throwing P0268.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

If you clear the codes, do they immediately return upon cranking?

While cranking, you should have battery voltage on one wire to each injector. The other should be PWM ground from the ECU. The easiest way to test for this is with a noid light, but you can do it with a test light as well.

Ohm out the new injectors. Are they within spec?


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## Chris_V (Jun 18, 2009)

Anony00GT said:


> If you clear the codes, do they immediately return upon cranking?
> 
> While cranking, you should have battery voltage on one wire to each injector. The other should be PWM ground from the ECU. The easiest way to test for this is with a noid light, but you can do it with a test light as well.
> 
> Ohm out the new injectors. Are they within spec?


I will check. They were supposedly bench tested and matched. And yeah, if you clear the codes, they immediately return. I checked all the connections at the injectors to make sure they were fully seated. There could be a connector I'm missing, though, with the car halfway taken apart by the PO (and parts missing) I can't be reasonably sure I have everything anyhow. 

Why did they change the 2.0 for this year run of the Beetle? The older and newer ones have the same 2.0 that's in every other Golf and Jetta...


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

It was different for the convertibles. Not sure why. I *think* the intake manifold is the only difference.


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## Chris_V (Jun 18, 2009)

injectors all ohm out to spec, but i haven't been able to test the power at the connectors yet. Will do that this weekend. The thing that confuses me is that the O2 heater gives a code at the same time, where it was fine before. Could something have happened at the ECU to cause both faults? ALL the wiring looks to be in good shape and connected tightly.


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## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

O2 heater shorts can cause ECU damage, yes, but it damages the throttle drivers, usually results in APP/TPS codes (which may or may not show up on a generic scanner). You need to scan with VCDS instead of generic OBDII to check that. Usually it happens on modified cars (the O2 sensor wires burn into an aftermarket exhaust pipe or scrape on the ground under a lowered car), on a stock vehicle, while possible, it's more likely just a bad O2 sensor and didn't cause this type of damage.

For now continue injector circuit diagnosis though, it could be the fuel pump relay. Pull the relay and check, if the terminals are blue and look as though they've been overheated, replace it with one from the dealer.


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## Chris_V (Jun 18, 2009)

Ok, checked the injector wires, and got no power to them when the engine was cranking.

Checked the fuel pump relay and fuse. The fuse at spot #28 was nonexistent, as was instead sitting in spot 27 which was not supposed to have a fuse in it. Put the fuse back where it was supposed to go. Fuel pump relay kicked off and you could hear the fuel pump run. Cleared the codes, tried to start it. CEL came back and those 5 codes came back. P0201, p0202, p0203, p0204 and still gives the p0036 O2 heater code. And still won't start.

Iv'e gone all through the wiring, and the Bentley manual and am at the limits of my abilities, I think.


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## Marianvladmarian (Apr 5, 2014)

Hi! I bought a vw golf 4 1.6 16v just a few days ago and in one of the days i couldnt start the engine i thought is the battery i asked some friends to push the car and finnaly the engine started but with the emission control lamp in the dashboard. I went to o garage to put the diagnostic on it and is got 7 errors: p0204 cylinder 4 injector circuit-n 33pen, p0202 cylinder 2 injector circuit-n 31pen, p0203 cylinder 3 injector circuit-n 32pen, p1425 evaporative emision canister purge regulator valve-n80: short to ground, p0201 cylinder1 injector circuit-n 30: open, p1115 ho2 s heater circuit bank1- sensor1: low, p1117 ho2 s heater circuit, bank 1-sensor 2: low. The mechanic told me that i have to change three injectors nr 2,3 and 4, the alternator and maybe the lambda sensors. Please help me if someone can give me some advice


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## Junkyarddawg (Dec 5, 2013)

Chris_V said:


> Ok, checked the injector wires, and got no power to them when the engine was cranking.
> 
> Checked the fuel pump relay and fuse. The fuse at spot #28 was nonexistent, as was instead sitting in spot 27 which was not supposed to have a fuse in it. Put the fuse back where it was supposed to go. Fuel pump relay kicked off and you could hear the fuel pump run. Cleared the codes, tried to start it. CEL came back and those 5 codes came back. P0201, p0202, p0203, p0204 and still gives the p0036 O2 heater code. And still won't start.
> 
> Iv'e gone all through the wiring, and the Bentley manual and am at the limits of my abilities, I think.


The problem on this car is easier to diagnose than you might think, you have already done half the work..
Someone needs to verify the wiring with a volt/ohm meter
The power circuit from the fusebox to the injectors comes first, as stated in earlier replies, if there is no power or low voltage, eg., <battery voltage, at the injectors then you verify power at the fuse, if the fuse has power on both sides, remove it for inspection. With fuse removed test fuse sockets in the box, one side will have power with the key on, the other side will not, the side without power goes out to feed the injectors. Turn the key off, use an ohm meter with one lead in the fusebox socket on the injector feed side then carefully check for continuity to all the injector plugs, be careful not to damage or expand the injector plug terminals as you will create an open circuit, this usually requires the correct terminal probe and careful insertion at each socket, never shove the wrong size probe into a electrical terminal!, they are delicate, If you have clean continuity eg., 0.2 ohms or less, then put the probe to a clean engine ground to check for "short to ground" on the injector feed circuit, if it was shorted to ground the fuse would be blown but check it any way a a high resistance short will not blow the fuse but will cause a voltage drop. If this test checks out "ok" then you need to verify the injector ground circuits back to the engine control module with same technique described above, just remember that each injector has a seperate "trigger" ground circuit back to the engine computer and the correct wiring diagram is essential for this test program.
If you dont have the inclination or tools for this type of testing you should find someone who does, keep in mind that you can actually create more problems if you dont pay close attention to the small details. Sometime this electrical stuff can seem like majic until you actaully "get it".

Good Skill not "Good Luck"


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## Chris_V (Jun 18, 2009)

Wiring harness ended up being damaged, which is what was keeping it from starting. Got it started and now there's a massive trans fluid leak from what looks to be the front trans seal of the automatic. Found this after finding that the trans drain plug was missing and there was no fluid in the trans.

it's so ****ing random the things that were/are missing on this stupid car. Got under it and found the rear O2 sensor missing. And the bracket for the Secondary Air pump was missing. Along with 3 of the intake manifold bolts. there's one bolt missing in the front suspension, and the sway bar mount bolts were crossthreaded.

Do not let friends buy non-running cars based on emotion when the PO cant speak english very well and has no clue what they are doing when fixing cars.


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