# Holset HY35 Build



## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Have a 180Q TT and decided that I'm doing a rod install while going big turbo. I decided on a Holset HY35. Next question I have is fueling/tune, will an inline pump and 630cc injectors work or could I go smaller? MAF or no MAF?

Edit:

Decided to create a build thread. Still in the planning stages but I'm looking to have this done quickly and get my car back on the road before Christmas. 

List of stuff:
Holset HY35
630cc Injectors or I can grab up some 1000cc locally for a good deal (would these be okay?)
Rod Install from RAI
FMIC with 2" or 2.5" piping
Inline pump
3" Downpipe/Exhaust...debating going custom or picking up something in the classifieds
Manifold
Wastegate
Clutch...trying to find something that will work with the DMFW.
Tune

What else am I missing? This is my DD so I'm not looking for miracles, just something fun to get around in.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

630ccs if you're using 93. Not enough for e85. Inline 044 will outfuel the turbo. Maf or mafless, up to you. 

Stick to 2" ic piping aswell.

If you need an hy, shoot me a pm.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> Have a 180Q TT and decided that I'm doing a rod install while going big turbo. I decided on a Holset HY35. Next question I have is fueling/tune, will an inline pump and 630cc injectors work or could I go smaller? MAF or no MAF?


What engine code are you?


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## Bx V-dubber (Dec 17, 2010)

good luck, a little slow to come on the rpm range but when it kicks in.......


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> What engine code are you?


AWP


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Bx V-dubber said:


> good luck, a little slow to come on the rpm range but when it kicks in.......


Better than the HX35! But haven't seen many people with the HY35 and I hear nothing but good things about Holset so I figured I'd give this setup a shot.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> 630ccs if you're using 93. Not enough for e85. Inline 044 will outfuel the turbo. Maf or mafless, up to you.
> 
> Stick to 2" ic piping aswell.
> 
> ...



Everyone seems to be recommending staying MAF, how come? 

I'll be using 93. 2" piping should be sufficient enough?

PM'd about the HY, I see you are in my area.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Maf based tunes offer more accurate fueling; as air is metered perfectly, and quickly in all atmospheric conditions, and temperatures.

Mafless can be tuned well, but not as accurately as a maf based system.

We offer both:thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Maf based tunes offer more accurate fueling; as air is metered perfectly, and quickly in all atmospheric conditions, and temperatures.
> 
> Mafless can be tuned well, but not as accurately as a maf based system.
> 
> We offer both:thumbup:


So you could get me a tune with MAF for this setup?


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## Bx V-dubber (Dec 17, 2010)

Yep, maf tunes are better for road. I have seen mafless mainly on drag setups. Yeah the hy spools faster than the hx, but for the price & top end power....... I'm partial to the hx. Hope your gonna make a "build" thread so we can see the progress.:beer:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> So you could get me a tune with MAF for this setup?


We can certainly set you up with a nice tune sir 

Shoot me a pm when you're ready


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

My mate put a hy35 on his sr20, 430hp and 390lbs at 18psi. Thing flies. 
Its a good mid sized turbo thats reliable and very affordable.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

superkarl said:


> My mate put a hy35 on his sr20, 430hp and 390lbs at 18psi. Thing flies.
> Its a good mid sized turbo thats reliable and very affordable.


Wow....Not even looking for close to that but it would be fun :laugh:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> We can certainly set you up with a nice tune sir
> 
> Shoot me a pm when you're ready


Awesome. Might be needing it sooner than later. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> Awesome. Might be needing it sooner than later. :thumbup:


I look forward to doing business with you buddy:beer:


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

In for this build! Im currently rebuilding my current turbo set up with a HY35w but on an ABA... cant wait to see your set up! Question why was 2" inter-cooler piping recommended.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> In for this build! Im currently rebuilding my current turbo set up with a HY35w but on an ABA... cant wait to see your set up! Question why was 2" inter-cooler piping recommended.


I would like to know why as well. Is there a significant advantage? Also would 1000cc or 860cc injectors be okay to run or should I stick to 630's? I have a couple local deals for either. I'll be running 93.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Should this clutch be sufficient? 

http://fourseasontuning.com/product.php?id=358&product_code=FST1152Y68.47113XY.ASTWRG


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> I would like to know why as well. Is there a significant advantage? Also would 1000cc or 860cc injectors be okay to run or should I stick to 630's? I have a couple local deals for either. I'll be running 93.


The 1000cc ev14 based injectors have the best spray pattern.

RUN from the Siemens / Deka injectors


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> The 1000cc ev14 based injectors have the best spray pattern.
> 
> RUN from the Siemens / Deka injectors


 Pm'd you with some questions.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> In for this build! Im currently rebuilding my current turbo set up with a HY35w but on an ABA... cant wait to see your set up! Question why was 2" inter-cooler piping recommended.


2" IC piping is fine for just over 500whp. A couple EVO guys have pulled 550awhp out of an hy35 at >35psi, which is well past it's recommended shaft RPM. HY's are typically 54/58/9, and the turbine maxes out before the compressor unless you run well above 1:1 boost/backpressure. Smaller charge piping is less air to compress, and a faster boost onset. You don't want to wait around until 5k to spool up a turbo making 450-500whp, not when the gtx2867 will spool like stock and make the same numbers.

Don't be fooled, a lot of those dsm guys are running either a .55ar housing on a 56/58/12, OR running it on a 2.4L motor. The 1.8t doesn't quite spool it like the dsm guys do. 2L stroker helps. 2.8L starts spooling the 54/58/9 around 2000rpm.

The he341 and he351s are completely different animals altogether.

edit: updated my numbers to reflect diesel nomenclature, not VW/precision

edit2: a 2L 20v at 24psi and 7500rpm will flow 750cfm, which would be the max for 2.25" charge piping


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> 2" IC piping is fine for just over 500whp. A couple EVO guys have pulled 550awhp out of an hy35 at >35psi, which is well past it's recommended shaft RPM. HY's are typically 54/58/9, and the turbine maxes out before the compressor unless you run well above 1:1 boost/backpressure. Smaller charge piping is less air to compress, and a faster boost onset. You don't want to wait around until 5k to spool up a turbo making 450-500whp, not when the gtx2867 will spool like stock and make the same numbers.
> 
> Don't be fooled, a lot of those dsm guys are running either a .55ar housing on a 56/58/12, OR running it on a 2.4L motor. The 1.8t doesn't quite spool it like the dsm guys do. 2L stroker helps. 2.8L starts spooling the 54/58/9 around 2000rpm.
> 
> ...



Great info for future reference. Guess I'll be running 2'' piping now :thumbup:. How's that turbo uninstall coming?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

I dropped my hx35/40 off for backplate machining today. I'm hoping my machine shop guy can have it done tomorrow afternoon. I should have the hy it off tomorrow (friday). I'd like to do it all at once, 'cause it's kind of a pita to swap things around.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> Pm'd you with some questions.


PM'd back with my #. Text me. This server is a mess lately


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Update: Taking my head to the machine shop tomorrow to get looked at and possibly refreshed a bit. 
Currently have log manifold, 38mm tial wastegate, soon to have turbo, and 630cc Injectors. 




[email protected] said:


> PM'd back with my #. Text me. This server is a mess lately


I agree, it's being very glitchy. However, we talked last night (Brandon). I decided to go with 630cc injectors for now.


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## [email protected]TS Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

You're selling yourself short with the 630's man. Spray pattern isn't right.

The only people who would suggest the 630's are those who've never driven the genesis 1000's. sooo much smoother man. I'm not even trying to sell you anything; buy em from anywhere, just don't waste time tuning an injector that'll never be 100%

edit: unless you were referring to the Ev14 based 630's, then disregard my comment. The Siemens/Deka are junk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Been a busy past couple days running around meeting people for parts.
So far:
Turbo (thanks Pat)
ATP log mani
38mm Tial Wastegate
Ebay Emusa BOV (for now)
1000cc FID injectors
Head is at the machine shop to get checked out. Hopefully all goes well. 

I think I need to clock the turbo for it to fit properly and also get a wastegate extender.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

The way the compressor cover is clocked will put the welded outlet right above the axle, like where the stock set-up meets the pancake pipe. The turbine cover, you'll have to spin.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> The way the compressor cover is clocked will put the welded outlet right above the axle, like where the stock set-up meets the pancake pipe. The turbine cover, you'll have to spin.


Do you have anymore pics of this setup?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

I don't, sorry.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

What I have so far. Trying to figure out how I want everything setup while the head is in the shop.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Can anybody give some direction about running correct oil feed/return for this turbo?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

4an feed, and 10an return :thumbup:


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Neg. 3 feed unrestricted or 4 w/ .065 restrictor and 12an drain. 1.8t oil pressure is too high for 4 unrestricted

Edit Holset calls for a 19mm drain. DSM guys are taking the stock stainless drain and welding a different pan fitting on to it with great success.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Neg. 3 feed unrestricted or 4 w/ .065 restrictor and 12an drain. 1.8t oil pressure is too high for 4 unrestricted
> 
> Edit Holset calls for a 19mm drain. DSM guys are taking the stock stainless drain and welding a different pan fitting on to it with great success.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


Good info Pat :beer:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Looking for some information on how strong the OEM head bolts are vs ARP. Some people say the OEM are fine while others just prefer to go with ARP. Curious if there was any hard evidence out there. 

Also I see these rod install kits come with OE rod bearings. Are these tanged or tangless?


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

OEM headbolts are still high tensile steel like the ARP items, (tensile strength of around 120k lbs), but obv the design of ARP stuff is far superior. Both do the job. Arp is more insurnace however.

Bearings are tanged, tangs face the inlet side of engine


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

http://clintsgarage.blogspot.com/2010/05/holset-hx35-turbo-install.html

Nice write up about installing a Holset on a DSM. I was paying attention to the oil supply/return setup in particular.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> http://clintsgarage.blogspot.com/2010/05/holset-hx35-turbo-install.html
> 
> Nice write up about installing a Holset on a DSM. I was paying attention to the oil supply/return setup in particular.


Run the setup Pat suggested. Our engines have much higher oil pressure than other cars; therefore our setups are somewhat proprietary. For example, the DSM oil restrictor isn't small enough.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Run the setup Pat suggested. Our engines have much higher oil pressure than other cars; therefore our setups are somewhat proprietary. For example, the DSM oil restrictor isn't small enough.


Oh absolutely, I was just referring the overall general setup. By the way can anyone tell me off the top of their head how much line I will need for the oil feed and return? I was thinking around 4 feet for the feed.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> Oh absolutely, I was just referring the overall general setup. By the way can anyone tell me off the top of their head how much line I will need for the oil feed and return? I was thinking around 4 feet for the feed.


I'd just put a tape measure to it; as it varies depending on how you want to run them.

Keeping with the budget theme of your build, I'd suggest getting them fabbed at an 18 wheeler shop, or hydraulic supply house. Either can produce very high quality lines, with a nice price point


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Iirc, my feed is 32" and strain is about 14", but I have a 3" drop drain fitting and return to the pan by the dampener

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> I'd just put a tape measure to it; as it varies depending on how you want to run them.
> 
> Keeping with the budget theme of your build, I'd suggest getting them fabbed at an 18 wheeler shop, or hydraulic supply house. Either can produce very high quality lines, with a nice price point



This may be a good option for me as my grandfather is a retired truck driver with a lot of hookups. Hell he might even have some laying around in his garage.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

thormx353 said:


> http://clintsgarage.blogspot.com/2010/05/holset-hx35-turbo-install.html
> 
> Nice write up about installing a Holset on a DSM. I was paying attention to the oil supply/return setup in particular.












This open doors to so many possibilities  plus that oil feed is nefty job:thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

ModsTTand said:


> This open doors to so many possibilities  plus that oil feed is nefty job:thumbup:


I know this is for DSM's but I am a bit lost on how this works. It looks really restrictive.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Its for the .55 hx35 Mitsubishi bolt on housing. It does not fit the hy35. And yes, it is.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

To the op have you checked clearance with the holset and the manifold yet? Also what are you doing for a down pipe? I and going with gen II 1000cc Because i plan on spraying corn eventually.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> My f21 was cool for a few weeks. I know a guy with an under the table vw holset setup and he suggested the hy35. To the op have you checked clearance with the holset and the manifold yet? Also what are you doing for a down pipe? I and going with gen II 1000cc Because i plan on spraying corn eventually.



I have not, yet. The head is off and at the machine shop so I took a quick glance today at what I was dealing with back there. I don't think I will have a problem. As far as a downpipe is concerned I will probably get one made and just buy the material (flange, piping, etc...). The car was completely stock before I started this build so I am going with a full custom turbo back....I know enough people to get a custom setup pretty cheap. Everything about this build is budget oriented with minimal shortcuts to provide a reliable BT setup. So far so good.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> I have not, yet. The head is off and at the machine shop so I took a quick glance today at what I was dealing with back there. I don't think I will have a problem. As far as a downpipe is concerned I will probably get one made and just buy the material (flange, piping, etc...). The car was completely stock before I started this build so I am going with a full custom turbo back....I know enough people to get a custom setup pretty cheap. Everything about this build is budget oriented with minimal shortcuts to provide a reliable BT setup. So far so good.


What are your plans for fueling? e85, pump? I have a walbro inline. I think it may need a surge tank though, and an lines from tank to surge tank Im not sure what your goals are but mine are about 400 whp. I do think its cool someone else is going this route though!

Alec


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> What are your plans for fueling? e85, pump? I have a walbro inline. I think it may need a surge tank though, and an lines from tank to surge tank Im not sure what your goals are but mine are about 400 whp. I do think its cool someone else is going this route though!
> 
> Alec



Going with Walboro inline, 1000cc's, 93 pump. To be honest I don't really have a particular number in mind, I'm more curious to see what kind of numbers I could get from this setup and provide others with information that are interested with this turbo.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

thormx353 said:


> I know this is for DSM's but I am a bit lost on how this works. It looks really restrictive.





Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Its for the .55 hx35 Mitsubishi bolt on housing. It does not fit the hy35. And yes, it is.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk



Sure you gents know better , i'm just thinking of replicating this with bigger and more less restrictive champer where that O2 bung bolt..its can easy done with costwise expenses..open other possibilities to use .55 hx35 mitsubishi housing , maybe Vband it to the matching downpipe size fow more flow 

more options for the community:thumbup:


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

ModsTTand said:


> Sure you gents know better , i'm just thinking of replicating this with bigger and more less restrictive champer where that O2 bung bolt..its can easy done with costwise expenses..open other possibilities to use .55 hx35 mitsubishi housing , maybe Vband it to the matching downpipe size fow more flow
> 
> more options for the community:thumbup:


This is more for the holset users thread..... but here it goes.

There's not much of a point. 

1) the .55 housing is limited on exhaust side. It doesn't bolt to the hy anyway.
2) none of the hx or hy series turbines have the wg entry port and downpipe divided. They open in to the same volume and there isn't room to divide them in the stock housings
3) the hx series wg ports only bleed off one scroll. If you're planning on using the stockport, you have to eliminate twinscroll (which is the only benefit of using the stock housing)
4) any WG reroute like the DSM 02 housing kills power anyway. You need to mere them as far away as possible.
5) all 1.8t manifolds (except atp & clones) are externally wastegated already

The only thing you could do that would really be of any benefit would be to machine the BW EFR turbine housings to fit the HX series turbos. I'm not trying to **** on your parade - just keeping you from wasting time by reinventing the wheel.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This is more for the holset users thread..... but here it goes.
> 
> There's not much of a point.
> 
> ...


My ATP manifold is external?


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## Pisko (Jan 14, 2006)

You can get different exhaust housings for the Holsets, Bullseye sells a t3 70ar housing for like 200$. I got a custom garrett t3 63ar/v-band exit exhaust housing from
Timsturbo.com for my brand spanking new HX40 with a custom 60mm 8 blade compressor wheel.:thumbup:


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This is more for the holset users thread..... but here it goes.
> 
> There's not much of a point.
> 
> ...



This is the ideal style manifold correct?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Depends on your definition of ideal 

Im wrong about atp, and i should have said some clones.

I would like to see an hx in a .48 Garrett housing. That would be a deadly combo

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

I agree with Pat on the 48 ar back housing, unless you're shooting for #s. it would make a nice responsive setup:thumbup:


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This is more for the holset users thread..... but here it goes.
> 
> There's not much of a point.
> 
> ...


Thanks for clearing that out Pat, Just brainstorming 



Pisko said:


> You can get different exhaust housings for the Holsets, Bullseye sells a t3 70ar housing for like 200$. I got a custom garrett t3 63ar/v-band exit exhaust housing from
> Timsturbo.com for my brand spanking new HX40 with a custom 60mm 8 blade compressor wheel.:thumbup:



sharing is caring 



Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> *I would like to see an hx in a .48 Garrett housing. That would be a deadly combo*
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk





[email protected] said:


> I agree with Pat on the 48 ar back housing, unless you're shooting for #s. *it would make a nice responsive setup*:thumbup:


This :thumbup:

thormx353 your Holset HY35 is still unmodified ? aiming for midrange or high revving output ? ( i might miss reading it here somewhere)

i found this cost effective in-tank fuel pump posted on VAG Tuning.net : copy the info from the site in here for you OP

*In-Tank Fuel Injection Pump by Sytec

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/sytec-hi-in-tank-fuel-injection-pump-36mm-in-8mm-out-p30311.html

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/med...78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/3/p3031.1.jpg*
Fittings In (mm):- 8mm
Fittings Out (mm):- 50
Pump:- P3031.1
Voltage DC:- 12v
Flow Ltr/Hr (Max):- 240
Flow Ltr/Hr @ 3 Bar (44psi):- 195
Flow Ltr/Hr @ 5 Bar (73psi):- 165
Max Pressure (Bar):- 7
Length (mm):- 138
Diameter (mm):-50
Weight (Kg):-0.53
*Applications:- Audi, VW, Mini, Rover, Seat, Skoda,
*
*Please see 'Injection Pump Application list' in the download section
*
*Cross Reference Numbers:-*


AUDI8Z0919051*AUDI6K0919051C*AUDI1J0919051C*AUDI3B0919051CAUDI6N0919087FAUDI3B0919051BAUDI6N0919051M*AUDI8Z0919051A*AUDI8Z0919051C*AUDI8L0919087E*AUDI6X0919056*AUDI6X0919051G*AUDI1J0919051H*AUDI1J0919087C*AUDI1J0919087D*AUDI6X0919051E*AUDI8L0919087A*AUDI1J0919087H*AUDI6Q0919051*AUDI6X0919056E*AUDI6X0919056G*AUDI1J0919051E*AUDI7M3919051A*AUDI6X0919051C*AUDI7M3919051*AUDI7M0919087D*AUDI7M0919051J*AUDI7M0919051H*AUDI6X0919087D*AUDI6X0919087B*MINI
16 14 6 759 955

<tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">

</tbody>ROVERWFX101471 (Rover 75 After Chassis No ZD225076)VAG6X0919087D*VAG7M0919051H*VAG7M0919051J*VAG7M0919087D*VAG7M3919051*VAG7M3919051A*VAG6X0919087B*VAG6X0919056G*VAG6X0919056E*VAG6X0919056*VAG6X0919051G*VAG6X0919051E*VAG6X0919051C*VAG6Q0919051*VAG1J0919087H*VAG8L0919087A*VAG8L0919087E*VAG8Z0919051*VAG6K0919051C*VAG1J0919051C*VAG1J0919051E*VAG1J0919051H*VAG1J0919087HVAG1J0919087JVAG3B0919051CVAG6N0919087FVAG3B0919051BVAG1J0919087C*VAG6N0919051M*VAG1J0919087D*VAG8Z0919051C*VAG8Z0919051A*VAG1J0919051BVW6K0919051C*VW6X0919056*VW6X0919056E*VW6X0919056G*VW6X0919087B*VW6X0919087D*VW7M0919051H*VW7M0919051J*VW7M0919087D*VW7M3919051A*VW8L0919087A*VW8L0919087E*VW8Z0919051*VW8Z0919051A*VW8Z0919051C*VW6N0919051M*VW6X0919051G*VW6X0919051E*VW6X0919051C*VW7M3919051*VW1J0919051H*VW1J0919051C*VW1J0919051E*VW1J0919087C*VW6Q0919051*VW1J0919087D*VW1J0919087H* 

<tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">

</tbody>

<tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">

</tbody>
Looking forward to learn more reading from this on budget project.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

ModsTTand said:


> Thanks for clearing that out Pat, Just brainstorming
> 
> 
> thormx353 your Holset HY35 is still unmodified ? aiming for midrange or high revving output ? ( i might miss reading it here somewhere)



Rebuilt He341 setup to run an external waste gate. It's my DD and will be using a stock head. I'm sure it won't be as nice as some of these out of the box turbo kits with smaller turbos as far as powerband is concerned. Who can give me a better idea of what this setup is capable of?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Update: picking up head on Saturday. Clutch came yesterday as well as my fuel pump today. Got a set of rods from a member on here, and ill be ordering the rest of the engine bits tonight along with oil lines/fitting. Hopefully getting the block pulled and torn down this weekend.


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

Best of luck Thom


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Got my head back today. Everything checked out and was resurfaced :thumbup:. Oil lines, boostvalve mbc, IC piping, honing tool, wastegate extender, etc. on their way this week.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Trying to plan ahead a bit once I get everything done and installed. Is there anyway I can limp this to an exhaust shop for a custom turbo back without a downpipe and the 02 sensor installed?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> Trying to plan ahead a bit once I get everything done and installed. Is there anyway I can limp this to an exhaust shop for a custom turbo back without a downpipe and the 02 sensor installed?


I wouldn't.. Tow it


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> I wouldn't.. Tow it


Probably what I'll do or fab up the downpipe myself and them do the rest.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> Probably what I'll do or fab up the downpipe myself and them do the rest.


Text me tonight buddy


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

If I'm in town, and you have it all tacked, I can tig er up for you.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> If I'm in town, and you have it all tacked, I can tig er up for you.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk



Thanks Pat, I'll keep that in mind if I can't find anyone else.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Text me tonight buddy


Sorry forgot to text you with all the snow storm excitement last night. I'll be sure to text you after work today. :thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Engine should be done this weekend. Sending my clutch back to Southbend to be exchanged for a sprung setup since I've decided to go single mass.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Where can I get an oil feed adapter into the turbo so I can connect a -4an line to it?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

This is what I use because I like how clean banjo fittings are.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257af8e275&vxp=mtr


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This is what I use because I like how clean banjo fittings are.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257af8e275&vxp=mtr


Thanks Pat. I thought I read something about the "Volvo" banjo bolt.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> This is what I use because I like how clean banjo fittings are.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257af8e275&vxp=mtr


Thanks Pat. I thought I read something about the "Volvo" banjo bolt.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Kudos to the guys at Southbend for exchanging my clutch and only making me pay shipping. Even apologized for not notifying me about only needing to send in the disk instead of the whole unit.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Engine is almost ready to go in. Just need to get a crows foot so I can tighten down the ATP manifold bolts. Hopefully the last time I need to buy some random tool. Posting up random build pics tonight.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

You don't necessarily need a crows foot. They don't work very well back there either... Heat up a 12mm box wrench, and give it about a 30 degree bend. When you install, tighten the top bolts as much as you can, then go back and put on the bottom bolts. It works like a charm. I have a wrench like this in my special tools drawer; I call it my "that god damn atp manifold ****ing **** wrench" If I knew you were using atp when you picked up the turbo I would have warned you!











Also,
clearance the back of the head slightly makes pulling the manifold 100x easier, should you ever have to work on the car with the motor in the bay.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Slow progress over the last week from the Holidays (thankful that's all over.) Hopefully getting the engine and tranny bolted back up tonight. Having trouble getting it back together by myself in the engine bay. Once that's all done it will be a downhill slide. Still waiting for Gonzo to send me back my ECU as well.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Engine is in. Really feel like this build is finally coming together. Ordering some more hardware parts so I can get the turbo on the manifold once I clock it. Did a little test fit after we got the motor in and it is tight back there!


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

I open this for MOAR PIX everytime!


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Same here let's get some progress pics. :thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Sorry guys lol. I've been meaning to get some pics on here but haven't had time to sit down and re-size them. Here's some random pictures I have.


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## superkarl (Dec 18, 2012)

my mani came with M8 holes so I tapped it for M10


good idea for some extra security if you haven't already done it


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Mine are already m10. Ordering studs and nuts from 034 tonight.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Keep it coming 
Sub'd


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Interested in some opinions about crankcase ventilation. Should I go the catch can and reroute back into my inlet or just route my crankcase breather into my exhaust using this http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1024&products_id=1243 ? 

Also ordering these. http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/produc...jector_to_EV1_Minitimer_Harness-3302-500.html


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Okay so my EVAP system is a little different than any of the write ups since I have a TT. I've deleted sai/pcv else and decided to do this since everything is easy to access at the moment. I have no blue balls but I believe the black canister in front of the P/S reservoir is the canister so I removed that and any lines attached and plugged the resistor into the plug that went into the canister. Then went to the passenger side fender well where one of the lines from the bottom of the canister led to me what I believe is the "leak detection pump." Removed that and disconnected the lines along with another electrical plug that went into the top of it. Right now all that left is the lines and plug that went into the LDP. Can I just leave that plug alone and tuck it away? Just want some confirmation that I did this right before removing the hard lines.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Okay how can I get this snap ring compressed so I can clock the compressor housing? I'm lost at this point.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

90 degree large needle nose with the tips filed down to it the holes. Or the holset specific tool (can't remember the p/n)


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> 90 degree large needle nose with the tips filed down to it the holes. Or the holset specific tool (can't remember the p/n)


This is what I was originally going to do before I bought these pliers. Going back to Sears to get said needle nose and return snap ring pliers.


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

In for firewall clearance pictures. I'm looking to run the same manifold/turbo combo. :beer:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fale said:


> In for firewall clearance pictures. I'm looking to run the same manifold/turbo combo. :beer:


Will do. I mocked it up a couple weeks ago and it will be a tight fit but doable. 

On another note I'm going to fab up a downpipe/exhaust myself. I have a couple questions though. 

How far from the turbo does the primary o2 sensor need to be?
Is the HX35 exhaust flange the same as the Hy35? Can I use this? http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalo...let-flange-wg-blocked-3-8-stainless-2305.html Is 3/8'' enough or should I use 1/2''? I'm going to do a Vband off this flange.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Hoping to start the engine in the next couple weeks. Curious as to what everyone's break in procedure is, particularly regarding oil choices.


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

thormx353 said:


> Hoping to start the engine in the next couple weeks. Curious as to what everyone's break in procedure is, particularly regarding oil choices.


I use Brad Penn break in oil and use this method...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

I was going to use brad penn as well but found out about Motul 10w40. Curious if that is any better or worse? What about some non detergent 5w30 with zinc additive?


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Mineral oil 5w-30 with zinc for break in. Then fully synth. 

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

thormx353 said:


> Hoping to start the engine in the next couple weeks. Curious as to what everyone's break in procedure is, particularly regarding oil choices.


upload some more pics of the build!


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

I cant wait to see how the HY does with the 1.8T as im currently doing a similar build on my 8v. Im curious to see the power & spool up differences, keep it up man its coming out great!


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Got the turbo installed. Need to find a different adapter for the wastegate and alter the eBay mk4 hot side piping to make it fit better. Cold side fits perfect. Got my ECU back from Gonzo and got it installed as well. Order from USRT for a fuel pump harness and injector adapters are the last big things aside getting a downpipe/exhaust made. 





Grinded down some $5 90 degree needle nose pliers so I could compress the huge retaining clip and clock the compressor housing.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

As you can the power steering hard line had to be unbolted from the clamps that were holding it in place to be raised up so the compressor housing wasn't pushing against it. A guy I know who had another BT TT said he replaced the hard line with a rubber fuel line which fixed the issue. I'll most likely do this.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

You are awd right? How does it fit with the straight mount mani? And what are you going to do for a downpipe?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> You are awd right? How does it fit with the straight mount mani? And what are you going to do for a downpipe?


Yes I have awd. It's a tight fit as my compressor housing is touching the firewall. Also I'm using a Tial 38 mm wastegate with an extension adapter. However, I still could not get it to fit without hitting the turbo, engine, or tranny. I can do a couple things which are buy a different more compact style wastegate like turbosmart or buy a different adapter that is at a 90degree angle as the adapter I have now offsets at less of an angle.

Keep in my mind that my main goal is keeping this a budget build so I've had to get creative with things. For instance I bought an intercooler for cheap off a buddy of mine who used it on his crx that went 11's. I then ordered 2" intercooler piping for a MK4 from Ebay. Cold side fit perfect but I'm having some issues with hot side which I think I have a solution for and will discuss in another post.

As far as a downpipe/exhaust is concerned I'm either doing it myself or having a shop do it. I got quoted $1k from a local performance shop for all stainless, vband, yada yada yada. Basically too much for my budget theme. I'm contacting another shop today for a price. If it again is too much for my liking ill be doing it myself. Plan is 3" piping, a fake cat from silicone intakes website, and a magnaflow muffler. I'm keeping the single exit exhaust for a simple unique look.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

are you not concerned with it hitting the firewall???


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## T-Boy (Jul 16, 2003)

Alec's TT said:


> are you not concerned with it hitting the firewall???


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

Spoken like a champ. :laugh:


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

T-Boy said:


>


Sometimes you gotta go primal with these VW's :laugh::thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> are you not concerned with it hitting the firewall???


Not really. Other people seem to not have trouble with their turbos touching the firewall. Ill keep an eye on it once I get it on the road.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Finally getting the fuel pump installed. Decided to put it in the engine bay instead of under the car because of lack of space and simplicity. I ordered the under the chassis harness from USRT though so there is some excess wire. 





Waiting for some intercooler setups bits like couplers to come in. Using MK4 piping which should work with some modification. Although cold side fits perfectly. Using a cheap intercooler my buddy sold me off his CRX. Curious to see how well it performs.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Need some insight!

Have an opportunity to grab a SPA manifold for a great price. http://store.blackforestindustries.com/spa1trt3tuma.html like this. Now I have my ATP manifold on the car now and I am very close to getting this thing started up and off to the exhaust shop for a downpipe/exhaust. However, my turbo is pretty much on the firewall, I had to order a MK4 power steering return line, and I had to ditch my F38 Tial Wastegate setup for a more compact vband Tial MVS unit because of the lack of space with ATP manifold between the turbo and wastegate. 

Should I make the change to the SPA bottom mount manifold? Will my turbo fit this manifold without the compressor housing hitting it? Any one else running this setup? Pics?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I have a different spa bottom mount, let me see if I can find some, picture's.

Edit, hope this picture is somewhat helpful. I have others of this manifold from SPAs development car if your interested.









Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

I would move the fuel pump over to the fender.


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

I'd like to see more of the SPA(sorry to thread jack, but ive been following this build pretty close). I'm on the fence about staying rear mount ATP style or going bottom mount. I would like to see inside the collector, if you have one.

OP when you say the compressor housing almost hits, how close are you talking? I'm worried the HX cover will require more clearancing than I'm willing to do. Thanks and good luck with the startup. It's gotta be getting close.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I can say with the orientation in the picture, it's pretty tight to the block, and the other way, by a half ass measurement it's close to the firewall.

I hate to say this, but a CTS top mount might be your best choice here.

The other option is having a homebrew logger made up. Stainless weld els are pretty cheap all things considered, and if your willing to fit it up and it only has to get welded overall it could be your best option. Adjustability on the flanges to fit such a larger turbo will really be beneficial. 

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

what rpm are you expecting to have boost and full spool by?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fale said:


> I'd like to see more of the SPA(sorry to thread jack, but ive been following this build pretty close). I'm on the fence about staying rear mount ATP style or going bottom mount. I would like to see inside the collector, if you have one.
> 
> OP when you say the compressor housing almost hits, how close are you talking? I'm worried the HX cover will require more clearancing than I'm willing to do. Thanks and good luck with the startup. It's gotta be getting close.



I'm not even sure the SPA would work the way I want it because of the Holset's larger compressor frame. Here's my list.

ATP log I have now- turbo hits fire wall, need different p/s return line, can't get wastegate to fit right, heater hose hard line literally 2 inches from inlet and even if I cut that I would have only about 5 inches for a filter. 

SPA- Not really much info regarding transverse engines, apparently more prone to cracking, sits lower and still doesn't solve my heater hose issue, probably solves p/s line issue. Would have to change intercooler setup, probably have a pipe made for the air filter to sit higher.

CTS/Other top mount- Most costly, but solves most of my issues or makes those issues less work, wastegate is 10x easier to install and more convenient.

Has anyone used a SPA longitudal on a transverse?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I would move the fuel pump over to the fender.


I was thinking about this. Just need to get a bracket and maybe some hose. Ill deal with it for now.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fale said:


> I'd like to see more of the SPA(sorry to thread jack, but ive been following this build pretty close). I'm on the fence about staying rear mount ATP style or going bottom mount. I would like to see inside the collector, if you have one.
> 
> OP when you say the compressor housing almost hits, how close are you talking? I'm worried the HX cover will require more clearancing than I'm willing to do. Thanks and good luck with the startup. It's gotta be getting close.



I just paid for a CTS top mount. Couldn't pass it up and decided to go with it before having a downpipe and exhaust made. I could be wrong but I'm going to assume MK4's have more clearance behind the motor (if that's what you have). Hopefully someone can chime in on this. 

I'll be putting my ATP manifold up for sale if anyone is interested.


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## ArcticFox (Nov 4, 2005)

SPA manifolds are much better for longitudinal setups tbh. Audizine has a couple builds using them if you search around.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

ArcticFox said:


> SPA manifolds are much better for longitudinal setups tbh. Audizine has a couple builds using them if you search around.


SPA longitudinal are top mounts while transverse are bottom mounts, which is why I asked if anyone ever used a longitudinal on a transverse for top mount purposes.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> what rpm are you expecting to have boost and full spool by?


I don't really have much to compare it to so I'm not sure. Maybe someone can do the math


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> On the my 1.8t hy (not the he341) with 3" charge piping it started spooling around 3500 and was at full boost around 5k (30-something psi).
> On my supercharged 2.0 with 2.5" charge piping, it started spooling about 1200-1500rpm and was at full boost around 2k (12ish psi).
> 
> random youtube video wiwth 1.8l:
> ...


Thanks to Pat for the good info! My charge piping is a bit smaller 2.5'' off the turbo to 2'' so spool should be a tad quicker.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

thormx353 said:


> SPA longitudinal are top mounts while transverse are bottom mounts, which is why I asked if anyone ever used a longitudinal on a transverse for top mount purposes.


Too mount isn't an improvement; unless you just like looking at your turbocharger. Bottom mount is always a better idea in street applications; as the heat gets pulled out of the bay, via the airflow under the car, and through the exhaust tunnel like OEM.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Last response wasn't intended to be curt, or snarky btw 

I'd rather deal with the extra fab to go bottom mount.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Last response wasn't intended to be curt, or snarky btw
> 
> I'd rather deal with the extra fab to go bottom mount.



I understand haha, and I'm not disagreeing. I'm going more of the direction in less "work" and less spending extra money. Budget and ease of installation is mind with this build for the average weekend wrencher. There are some things I already wish I could have known before to prevent wasteful spending, luckily I've made my money back or more by reselling.

If someone was good at fabrication or welding they could even more easily do this build, considering I've done much of the work myself with minimal custom work. If it wasn't for the horrible lack of space in the TT bay I would have just left the ATP mani on but the top mount will be much easier to deal with. Now I just have to hop the ATP/Turbo uninstall will not be ass much of a PITA as it was to put on.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Disconnect the dog bone and you can tilt the motor forward some?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

New manifold courtesy of a member on here. 

Now I'm stuck with 3 nuts I can't get off to uninstall the ATP manifold. :banghead:


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

is that the spa mani?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

stevemannn said:


> is that the spa mani?


CTS :thumbup: http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_1_8T_T3_Turbo_Manifold_Transverse-153-2.html


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Hopefully will have this thing started tonight. Need to get the oil pan on, coolant, fluids, clutch bled, intercooler piping on, brackets bent for intercooler and get that installed. Just a handful of little things to finish off. 

Had to get a custom air filter made because I only have about 2’’ from the inlet to the brake booster. On top of that I have the pesky heater core lines right where the filter needs to go. Still trying to figure out a solution for that.


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

It's looking really good man:thumbup:


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## stevemannn (Apr 17, 2008)

looks like that mani fits perfect. i was looking at the same one,since im not sure mine will fit. curious, how much room do you have between the turbo,and firewall,and turbo and head.
i have an hx40 so its slightly larger. thanks


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

stevemannn said:


> looks like that mani fits perfect. i was looking at the same one,since im not sure mine will fit. curious, how much room do you have between the turbo,and firewall,and turbo and head.
> i have an hx40 so its slightly larger. thanks


I have a few inches between both. I don't believe you should have a problem fitting the Hx40 in there.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Well I got her started up. My oil feed line started leaking so I had to cut warming it up short. Apparently I didn't pay attention to the correct adapter size when I put everything together. Have another oil feed that should be perfect on its way. Also arranging for a guy to build a down pipe and and exhaust for me. Should be on the road in no time. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rj4Hr5FOu_c



Some more pictures. I bought an ebay 2'' piping kit for a MK4. Ended up not using most of it but still was a nice base to come up with something that would work. Using the top mount manifold and an elbow welded to the compressor housing really made things easy. 






Custom air filter from greenfilterusa.com. A bit restrictive but a nice solution to the lack of space between the brake booster and heater core lines coming out the firewall. Still trying to figure out a solution for that.


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

This makes me jealous  built head? Can't wait to finish my 2l hx35 build :beer:


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Now I know what you mean... Damn, you have no space in there bro lol . 

Hell yea !! Can't.to.see videos of it on.the road ripping some rubber.  

Great job so far... 

Keep going .almost there !! :thumbup:


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Looks like you have enough room for one of these, then use a filter in the proper spot:
http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=90CB40


I put together a manifold that moved the turbo a little closer to the brake booster, and that still fit in there.


I'll be back in town Wednesday evening if you need some piping built. I have a ton of 2" and I think a bit of 2.5 left. And lots of 3" SS. And a cobra head to test fit with. It' be awesome to see the IC piping go over the valve cover to clear up space for a cobra head and true 4" intake.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

As you can see I don't have much room to work with.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Looks like you have enough room for one of these, then use a filter in the proper spot:
> http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=90CB40
> 
> 
> ...



Pat once I get it on the road and broke in I may take you up on that offer. I completely agree with rerouting the piping a bit over the valve cover but with the 90 elbow welded to the compressor housing I don't see that being too easy lol. I don't see the cobra heading fitting without moving the piping either unless you can take a pipe off the cobra to where the stock air box used to be.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

That is tight. These might work:
http://store.034motorsport.com/heater-hose-pair-mk4-1-8t-with-big-turbo.html

We'd have to cut the 90 of the comp cover. It's no big deal.

My turbo sat a touch lower than yours, but you get the general idea

















If the cobra won't work, we can weld something up to the comp cover....


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Not much progress the last week. I got my new oil feed line but haven't had a chance to install it. Also waiting for the guy doing my exhaust to get some new equipment and find a shop (he's starting his own business now). IN THE MEANTIME I picked up this over the weekend. 







Needs a little love in the suspension department but it runs great. Will make a nice daily. Now I just need to get my Civic prepped for selling.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

That's Corey's old car.

Your from RI thorm?

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dave926 said:


> That's Corey's old car.
> 
> Your from RI thorm?
> 
> Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


Nope, western PA. Had to make about a 22 hour round trip to get it lol.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I've seen the car rip a few times, seems to be well put together.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dave926 said:


> I've seen the car rip a few times, seems to be well put together.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


Other than needing a suspension refresh I'm happy with it so far. Looking forward to comparing the gt3071r to the HY35.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

What bolt size/thread pitch do I need to block off the coolant passage on the back of the block?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

thormx353 said:


> What bolt size/thread pitch do I need to block off the coolant passage on the back of the block?


Finally found it. M14 x 1.5


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

standard oil drain plug should fit. :thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fale said:


> standard oil drain plug should fit. :thumbup:


Wow never realized that. Thanks! :thumbup:


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

No worries man. use a good crush washer and torque to 15-20ft/lbs and it'll never leak. Super easy to get a socket on there from the top side, too.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Finally got to a full warm up tonight. Everything seemed to be okay so far. Idle vaccum is around 16 which seems a little low so I'm going to do a pressure test.


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

Re-check timing? Re-align the throttle body?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Really curious to see the boost profile

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## Fale (Apr 5, 2008)

bump for some hi-res video.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Climo buy that shop yet? I know he went looking at one yesterday.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Climo buy that shop yet? I know he went looking at one yesterday.


Not yet lol. He looked at another one today. We have plans this Saturday at my grandpas garage with a lift to get the exhaust done.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fale said:


> bump for some hi-res video.


Soon 

Pic just before I got the bumper on. Had to do some shaving but it all fits. 


Local catch can pickup


Tight back here 


Some new shoes for the A4 (separate thread to come soon)


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

When you talk to Eric, have him show you the rad intercooler I built for him. He got the shop today.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> When you talk to Eric, have him show you the rad intercooler I built for him. He got the shop today.



I defintley will. I may have to get you to do some work for my down the road if you're interested. I actually met up with Climo right before he brought the mig over to your place the other day. I'm messaging him now to see if the shop will be ready for me by Saturday.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Ready for the exhaust to be made tomorrow.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

sweet!:thumbup:


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

I don't know what you and Eric were planning, but it's a smart idea to put a vband right at the Holset downpipe flange. The 5 bolt is a pain in the ass to bolt up when it's all on the car.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Yeap we're putting a vband off the turbo and at the bottom of the downpipe somewhere. 

He just sent me this pic not too long ago.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> I don't know what you and Eric were planning, but it's a smart idea to put a vband right at the Holset downpipe flange. The 5 bolt is a pain in the ass to bolt up when it's all on the car.


From my research I need M8 (13mm) bolts. Do you know what thread pitch?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Should be 1.25 but you ll want to double check yourself


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Today is the day folks. Getting my 3'' exhaust and down pipe. Picture is from last night getting her prepared. Hopefully some more pics and videos to come later tonight :thumbup::laugh:


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

Is there a reason you spaced the turbo off the manifold? I would think that would be more of a problem with clearance of the bottom of the rain tray and the compressor housing. Mine will soon be going on also just have a few more parts that I want in my hands before I take it apart and shut her down for a few weeks.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

20psi now said:


> Is there a reason you spaced the turbo off the manifold? I would think that would be more of a problem with clearance of the bottom of the rain tray and the compressor housing. Mine will soon be going on also just have a few more parts that I want in my hands before I take it apart and shut her down for a few weeks.


No spacer. Just turbo to manifold.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Got the downpipe and exhaust made last night. Seem to be running a little rich at the moment.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Little clip of the new exhaust right after we finished it. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHMH-O0Bmcw


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

So I drove the car back home this week. Went to start it this morning because it was supposed to get inspected today and now it won't start and keeps flooding the spark plugs. It will act like it wants to start but can't seem to keep going before eventually just flooding the plugs again. I'm at a loss right now as it never had a problem starting before.


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Are your fuel trims adapting? Is the primary 0/2 reporting decently? Any air leaks?

It may not be the case, but i'm not a fan of installing the o/2 that close to the turbo exit, it usually cooks it rather quickly.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

From your start up video, you are also extremely rich. Time for new plugs and probably an 02.are you still on a narrowband ecu?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> From your start up video, you are also extremely rich. Time for new plugs and probably an 02.are you still on a narrowband ecu?


Plugs are literally brand new since first start up. I'm wideband.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

AmIdYfReAk said:


> Are your fuel trims adapting? Is the primary 0/2 reporting decently? Any air leaks?
> 
> It may not be the case, but i'm not a fan of installing the o/2 that close to the turbo exit, it usually cooks it rather quickly.



No are leaks but I'm not sure how to check those things. I'm sure a search on my end will let me know so thank you. 

Concerning the o2 sensor I believe I'm going to look into some type of heat shield/sink.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Check out innovator's website. They have some ideas on there to keep an 02 sensors temp in check

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Got her inspected on the road today. Couple little bits I need to take care of but so far so good. :thumbup:

Here's a little video, the best I could do for right now. I'm seeing full boost right around 5k and positive pressure around 3k. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SL_XnTQIWo&list=UUru6UzUgi9tcsZDTkNvq7EA


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## 20psi now (Feb 26, 2009)

thormx353 said:


> Got her inspected on the road today. Couple little bits I need to take care of but so far so good. :thumbup:
> 
> Here's a little video, the best I could do for right now. I'm seeing full boost right around 5k and positive pressure around 3k.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SL_XnTQIWo&list=UUru6UzUgi9tcsZDTkNvq7EA


Sounds really good. What are you running for psi? I should be starting on mine tomorrow night after work. wont be running this weekend sadly but it will be bolted to the engine :laugh: 100mph come quick for slow shifting :beer:.


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

thormx353 said:


> Ready for the exhaust to be made tomorrow.


What all does your exhaust consist of? 

cat, resonator, muffler? 



AmIdYfReAk said:


> Are your fuel trims adapting? Is the primary 0/2 reporting decently? Any air leaks?
> 
> It may not be the case, but i'm not a fan of installing the o/2 that close to the turbo exit, it usually cooks it rather quickly.


If there's no adaption and accurate O2 reading, what is the usually indicative of?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Are any and all deletes resistored?


*Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Are any and all deletes resistored?
> 
> 
> *Text for orders and customer support 24/7 908-259-4860*


Mine personally? 

Sorry OP for thread jacking. 

Yes, but one might have jarred loose or something. 

That's why i ask.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

20psi now said:


> Sounds really good. What are you running for psi? I should be starting on mine tomorrow night after work. wont be running this weekend sadly but it will be bolted to the engine :laugh: 100mph come quick for slow shifting :beer:.


Currently at about 21 psi. I need a bigger oil drain and a braided wastegate hose for heat purposes.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

jstnGTI said:


> What all does your exhaust consist of?
> 
> cat, resonator, muffler?
> 
> ...



3'' turbo back, fake cat, magnaflow muffler.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Are any and all deletes resistored?


Everything deleted has a plug. I haven't taken care of the rear o2 sensor yet because I had to cut it off and didn't think I needed to put it back on.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

thormx353 said:


> Currently at about 21 psi. I need a bigger oil drain and a braided wastegate hose for heat purposes.


Holsets require a sewer drain lol.

On my mk2, I used a Cummins drain tube attached to a -16an line from Russells. Holset specs a ~0.88 i.d., and the hose spec'd out at 0.87.

Let me know what you need for length, I have a piece sitting in my basement and Ill send it for shipping cost with a 90* fitting that refuses to come off.:laugh:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dave926 said:


> Holsets require a sewer drain lol.
> 
> On my mk2, I used a Cummins drain tube attached to a -16an line from Russells. Holset specs a ~0.88 i.d., and the hose spec'd out at 0.87.
> 
> Let me know what you need for length, I have a piece sitting in my basement and Ill send it for shipping cost with a 90* fitting that refuses to come off.:laugh:


Pics? What size fitting? I can't believe how big the drains on these things need to be lol


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Little better quality video. Didn't want to push it too hard yet but I did hit 25 psi the other night when I had the wastegate hooked up wrong  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHMH-O0Bmcw&list=UUru6UzUgi9tcsZDTkNvq7EA


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

thormx353 said:


> Pics? What size fitting? I can't believe how big the drains on these things need to be lol


-16an, 90* Russell Full Flow.

Fitting alone was around ~$40. If I had to guess I have around 16" of line.

-16 doesnt like to bend, so it might need to be done in multiple sections


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## jstnGTI (Jan 30, 2012)

thormx353 said:


> 3'' turbo back, fake cat, magnaflow muffler.


Sounds sick. Going to be running the same setup very soon. 

Minus the fake cat.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

jstnGTI said:


> Sounds sick. Going to be running the same setup very soon.
> 
> Minus the fake cat.


I don't have emissions but I do have visual for a cat. Didn't matter any because we have friends who own a dealership and do inspections lol. I'll try to get better exhaust videos soon.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dave926 said:


> -16an, 90* Russell Full Flow.
> 
> Fitting alone was around ~$40. If I had to guess I have around 16" of line.
> 
> -16 doesnt like to bend, so it might need to be done in multiple sections


How do you have yours attached to the turbo and the oil pan?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Well That was a little half ass on a budget with my my mk2, so I won't talk about it lol 

Your going to need about 2-3 inches of the Cummins drain tube hanging off the turbo, or else you won't clear the compressor housing with the fittings . Weld a bung on the end, hook up your line and on the pan end, get a 2.0 pan and weld another bung on.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dave926 said:


> Well That was a little half ass on a budget with my my mk2, so I won't talk about it lol
> 
> Your going to need about 2-3 inches of the Cummins drain tube hanging off the turbo, or else you won't clear the compressor housing with the fittings . Weld a bung on the end, hook up your line and on the pan end, get a 2.0 pan and weld another bung on.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk


PM me how much to send to 16057.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

thormx353 said:


> PM me how much to send to 16057.


Is this what I would need?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-Dodge-Ra...Parts_Accessories&hash=item54063cf55b&vxp=mtr


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

After searching around I wanted to throw this out there. Using this kit for the tube coming off the turbo like Dave mentioned and then drilling out the oem 1.8t oil pan hole and attaching the stock pipe that comes out of the Cummins block that serves the purpose of the oil drain. Then just attaching the two together using the proper length/size size and clamps with a heat protector sleeve. 

http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr...ns-diesel-t-rex-twin-turbo-oil-drain-kit.html


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Finally got some logs done. Just waiting to get them from my buddy's computer. My lambda at idle was about .75 and WOT was about .82-.83. Intake temps didn’t get much above 40C at 21psi. My gas mileage is pretty crappy right now though.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Looking forward to hearing your feedback once you get everything dialed in. At what rpm are you seeing positive pressure at with the HY?

*edit*

I over-read that you are seeing positive pressure at 3k rpm? Oh man going to be high on my 8v then....


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Looking forward to hearing your feedback once you get everything dialed in. At what rpm are you seeing positive pressure at with the HY?
> 
> *edit*
> 
> I over-read that you are seeing positive pressure at 3k rpm? Oh man going to be high on my 8v then....


I'm usually in full boost by 5k if not sooner. 3-4k is usually 0-10 psi and then I can hit 10-21 psi in the matter of a couple hundred RPM's. I think this turbo can really be helped out by a better intake manifold which is next on my list. It's definitely impressive though. I'll try to get some decent vids soon.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

thormx353 said:


> I'm usually in full boost by 5k if not sooner. 3-4k is usually 0-10 psi and then I can hit 10-21 psi in the matter of a couple hundred RPM's. I think this turbo can really be helped out by a better intake manifold which is next on my list. It's definitely impressive though. I'll try to get some decent vids soon.


Yeah absolutely in for some videos. :thumbup:


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Does anyone know why my A/F is so rich at idle? About 11.03 at idle, but good at WOT 12.05.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Vacuum leaks
Bad 02
Corrupt ecu flash (seen ecus randomly corrupt a couple of times)
Wrong ecu flash


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

thormx353 said:


> Does anyone know why my A/F is so rich at idle? About 11.03 at idle, but good at WOT 12.05.


how is your catch can ran?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Well some bad news. I was going down the highway yesterday and all of a sudden lost power. Pulled over, popped the hood, and no timing belt. Still need to diagnose everything but it looks like ill be searching for at least a new head, if not starting my stroker build a little early.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

I have a head. Its your if you want it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Updates?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> Updates?


Right now I'm trying to figure out what I want to do. Either slap on a lightly used built head or another stock head and continue improving other parts of my build. I have about $1000-$1500 to work with after I get my big turbo A4 sold. So it’s either a built head with cams or stock head with better intake manifold, water/meth, air to water intercooler, etc…. I’m kind of stuck trying to figure out what I want. Also both the tensioner and timing belt had 20k on it. Should I be okay with a Kevlar timing belt and stick with the hydraulic tensioner?


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Could you tell why it failed? I am going with a continental belt and an oe brand hydro tensioner. How tight was it with the log mani and the hy35? I have an ebay logger and an hy. Im wondering how much hammer time it will take to make it fit?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> Could you tell why it failed? I am going with a continental belt and an oe brand hydro tensioner. How tight was it with the log mani and the hy35? I have an ebay logger and an hy. Im wondering how much hammer time it will take to make it fit?


No idea and I lot the belt on the highway and couldn't find it. It was after being in slow traffic for about 45 minutes and then taking off. Guessing the belt just stretched. Honestly, ditch the log mani and go for top or bottom mount. Mounting the manifold alone is a PITA out of the car. I made that mistake after putting the engine back in and finding out the turbo was pushing in against the firewall and P/S line. (P.S. if you still use the log mani you should get a Mk4 P/S line because it goes along the bottom of the firewall). Anyway, I spent almost 2 days bending a wrench 500 times just to the get the manifold off. Switched it out for a CTS and I've been happy. You can probably get the log to work but I wasn't willing to bang up my firewall just to save $300.


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

This needs updates!!!


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> This needs updates!!!


updates soon. Finally sold my BT A4 and I'm parting my Civic Si back to stock to free up some more time and money. I'm on the hunt for some parts now for the TT.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Still weighing my options and still very undecided of what I want to do. Was thinking built head, then stock head and put money elsewhere into the car, and now I'm thinking at least cams. 

On that note does anyone have insight on Cat 3653 and 3658 cams? Lots of info on the 3658 but not so much on the 3653. What would be the disadvantages and advantages with regards to my setup running either?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

any info?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alright so my car should be up and running this weekend provided I get all the parts in time. 

However, I am concerned with my oil return setup still. My turbo was back up some oil before my timing belt gave way. I went ahead and took away some of the "slack" I had so now I have a -10an line going directly from the turbo (top mount) to the oil pan using an adapter from 034. Everyone keeps telling me that the hole for the return in the pan is too low (below oil level) and is causing my issue. Multiple local people, mostly Honda guys, saying they use -10an and have no problem with their Holsets backing up oil. 

Would like some insight before throwing it all back together.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

thormx353 said:


> Alright so my car should be up and running this weekend provided I get all the parts in time.
> 
> However, I am concerned with my oil return setup still. My turbo was back up some oil before my timing belt gave way. I went ahead and took away some of the "slack" I had so now* I have a -10an line going directly from the turbo (top mount) to the oil pan using an adapter from 034.* Everyone keeps telling me that the hole for the return in the pan is too low (below oil level) and is causing my issue. Multiple local people, mostly Honda guys, saying they use -10an and have no problem with their Holsets backing up oil.
> 
> Would like some insight before throwing it all back together.


What adapter are you using?


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## slowgti (Jul 15, 2003)

thormx353 said:


> Alright so my car should be up and running this weekend provided I get all the parts in time.
> 
> However, I am concerned with my oil return setup still. My turbo was back up some oil before my timing belt gave way. I went ahead and took away some of the "slack" I had so now I have a -10an line going directly from the turbo (top mount) to the oil pan using an adapter from 034. Everyone keeps telling me that the hole for the return in the pan is too low (below oil level) and is causing my issue. Multiple local people, mostly Honda guys, saying they use -10an and have no problem with their Holsets backing up oil.
> 
> Would like some insight before throwing it all back together.


Have you done a leak down test? High crankcase pressure will back up the oil in the drain tube. I've got 60k+ on my borg warner setup using the oil drain adapter without issue. 

I've used a piece of high temp clear tubing instead of -an line to watch oil flow before. Use it only with cold oil! You can watch the oil drain into the pan and see if there are any air bubbles coming through the line and see what level it is backing up at. 

Also, have you measured the oil pressure after the restrictor?


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Holsets should not drain into oil. Mine is on the t belt side of the pan at the top.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Alec's TT said:


> Holsets should not drain into oil. Mine is on the t belt side of the pan at the top.


Please elaborate.


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

Mine is on stock location -10an line 2 years no problems...


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

slowgti said:


> Have you done a leak down test? High crankcase pressure will back up the oil in the drain tube. I've got 60k+ on my borg warner setup using the oil drain adapter without issue.
> 
> I've used a piece of high temp clear tubing instead of -an line to watch oil flow before. Use it only with cold oil! You can watch the oil drain into the pan and see if there are any air bubbles coming through the line and see what level it is backing up at.
> 
> Also, have you measured the oil pressure after the restrictor?


No leak down test. I will test that out once I get my new head put on. Going to fix my catch can setup a little better. I'm VTA, but seem to have quite a bit of oil in it after a while. Not sure if thats normal or not. Does anyone support a vented oil cap for reassurance?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Update:

Got everything back together and no more oil drainage problems. The used head I put on had a bad tensioner so I got that taken care of with no issues. However, I started leaking oil out between my engine and trans. Best guess tells me rear main seal, and also my clutch/trans is making a bad noise on decel. It never ends. Can anyone confirm my guess before I pull everything out to replace the seal? Leaks quite a bit of oil now.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

thormx353 said:


> Update:
> 
> Got everything back together and no more oil drainage problems. The used head I put on had a bad tensioner so I got that taken care of with no issues. However, I started leaking oil out between my engine and trans. Best guess tells me rear main seal, and also my clutch/trans is making a bad noise on decel. It never ends. Can anyone confirm my guess before I pull everything out to replace the seal? Leaks quite a bit of oil now.


Sounds like input shaft seal on the trans, that would explain the leak and trans noise at the same time. I bet your trans is low on fluid which is a 5th gear killer. Either way requires pulling the trans.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

If you want to know without doing a ton of work you could always drop the pan and pull back the dust shield. At least that way the car won't be immobile while you wait for parts.....

Also, if it is the input shaft seal, be careful. You don't want fluid getting on to your clutch..... And if the Tanny is bad, be sure to look for an 02m without the plastic cover for the end bearing.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

If it was the input seal wouldn't it be tranny fluid and not oil? Just weird that I've drove it for a period of time and didn't have any problems. Now it started leaking oil and making a louder than usual noise of decel. I have a feeling something have came loose or vibrations caused the rear main to go bad. I have LWF and Stage 2 Southbend clutch. Assuming I have done any damage to my tranny (I haven't driven the car since the abnormal noise started), what are some "neccesary upgrades" I can do. Shim? Is a steel shift fork a good idea? Should I go back to a DMF?


EDIT: Would swaping my 5 speed O2M out for a 6 Speed O2M require anything special?


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

I don't know the differences between 5sp and 6so, maybe input shaft diameter?

There about $1500-2000 you can spend in 02m upgrades before you start taking about gears. The three billet shift forks, the 4th gear shaft brace, case reinforcement, tapered bearing billet reinforcement... All of which requires a bare case to cut in to. The forks are a definite do if you're going to be in there. Then, I would add the shaft brace. You can find the link in the 02m upgrade thread in the manual transmission forums.

Does your tranny have the plastic end cap on the drivers side or metal? If it's plastic, you can add a shim that might help, but that's usually for disengagement issues.

Oh and manual transmissions use 75-90 gear oil.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> I don't know the differences between 5sp and 6so, maybe input shaft diameter?
> 
> There about $1500-2000 you can spend in 02m upgrades before you start taking about gears. The three billet shift forks, the 4th gear shaft brace, case reinforcement, tapered bearing billet reinforcement... All of which requires a bare case to cut in to. The forks are a definite do if you're going to be in there. Then, I would add the shaft brace. You can find the link in the 02m upgrade thread in the manual transmission forums.
> 
> ...




I believe they are the "same" except a dummy gear is used and ratio differences. Just wanted to make sure the ECU, linkages, etc.... weren't different. Probably not something I'll be doing soon but figured I would address it. I'll never make enough power for a new gear set. I'll keep searching around for some information. Seems like shift forks are a bare minimum.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Another update. Got everything pulled. Ended up being my flywheel bolts backing out on me and laying carnage on the flywheel and messing up my brand new South Bend setup. DON'T FORGET TO LOCTITE YOUR FLYWHEEL BOLTS. Such a stupid overlooked mistake on my end. With that said I got a new flywheel ordered and clutch disc from South Bend. Jon from South Bend was very helpful and got me the updated "quiet" disc that came out after I bought my kit originally. He even offered to machine out my flywheel in case it didn't fit properly, awesome people there. Also have some other goodies coming like BFI mounts and possibly a SEM intake manifold. Kind of worried about my threads being messed up on my crank but I think I can save it.

Some random pics, I thought I took more but I guess not.


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

Thats a bummer man! Did you re-use your old bolts? Generally new flywheel bolts come with loc-tite on them. Regardless it sounds like you are going to have an even nicer set up once its back together! I JUST finished my HY35w build and am freaking loving it.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

Grab one of the ie grip shims this time and tack weld the bolts to the shim. And while you're at it, grab a pair of two locating bolts, and four arps. Make sure that doesn't happen again. What does the end of the crank look like?


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

Pat @ Pitt Soundworks said:


> Grab one of the ie grip shims this time and tack weld the bolts to the shim. And while you're at it, grab a pair of two locating bolts, and four arps. Make sure that doesn't happen again. What does the end of the crank look like?


Hmm can't find anything on IE's website for that. The threads ended up being a little worse than I thought so I bought a helicoil kit and ordered 6 ARP bolts. I also have 6 fresh OEM bolts as well. Still kind of kicking myself in the ass for not properly doing all this the first time, just hoping it all works out in my favor somehow.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

.T.o.n.y. said:


> Thats a bummer man! Did you re-use your old bolts? Generally new flywheel bolts come with loc-tite on them. Regardless it sounds like you are going to have an even nicer set up once its back together! I JUST finished my HY35w build and am freaking loving it.



I can't really remember to be honest. At that point in my build I was so excited to get everything back together I might have said "screw it" or just overlooked it. It sucks but I learned a hard lesson from it (one that hopefully doesn't completely involve tearing down my motor again). Regardless I'm excited to get it back on the road with the new goodies. Trying to hold off on ordering more parts until I know for sure everything is going to be okay.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

I've been forgetting to update this thing. I ended up having to helicoil the crank as all the threads got screwed up. Car has been together for awhile now and is running well. Right now I'm waiting for a bunch of parts to come in so I can go back to recirc'd catch can setup and fab up a custom air intake. Also got a new coilpack harness and 034 coilpack cover. I hate all the loose sensor and wires that are unused chilling in the engine bay so I'm going to try and get those hidden while relocating the battery to the rear. 

I have plans with the guy who did my downpipe and exhaust to do some more work for me. First of all, I'm going to Vband off the turbo instead of the 5 bolt flange. Something I should have done from the beginning, lesson learned. Custom intercooler piping and air intake will be on the list as well. Other than "cosmetic" work this should finish up my engine setup and I can move onto suspension/wheels/brake/ and that fancy new HPA controller. 

Hopefully going to the dyno soon. I'm currently at about 22 psi and have been taking guessing at how much hp/tq I'll be making from people. General consensus seems to be high 300's. Someone mentioned taking it up to 30psi. Can the stock head take that much with a stock intake and throttle body?


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## BH17DNB (Feb 21, 2011)

Yes it can.
i'm doing 30ish psi with a HX35 with no problems on a stock head. will upgrade the exhaust valves and springs soon though.


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## thormx353 (Dec 24, 2012)

BH17DNB said:


> Yes it can.
> i'm doing 30ish psi with a HX35 with no problems on a stock head. will upgrade the exhaust valves and springs soon though.


Well then :laugh::thumbup:


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

I have been running 30psi on mine since i got it running 4 months ago. Since its cold out i can roast my brand new drag radials soon as boost hits. It takes a while but it goes from 4-5psi to 30psi in about 1 second. Its so crazy!


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## Alec's TT (Jan 28, 2013)

Updates?


----------

