# More W/M tuning ( mixture ) ( nozzles ) and ( Placement )



## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

I'm running a devils own kit (el cheapo boost based kit, but it works pretty well just hard to tune).

I currently have a 3gph nozzle running and I'm running low temp washer fluid for my mix (going through a lot while testing so I'd like to keep it cheap)

1st, can someone explain what would be the advantage of running pure distilled h20 vs a w/m mix?
Spartiati has told me to try this several times. I'd like to run a more aggressive timing map but with a 3* advance I'm getting serious pull. My intake temps on a 60*f day have gotten as low as 9*C though

Could I change my mix to reduce knock even more?

2nd, I'm running a 3gph nozzle right before the TB hose in my intercooler pipe and I'm wondering if I should add another nozzle using a USRT plate? maybe a lower nozzle of some sort? I've also contemplated running a preturbo nozzle to see if I can change the characteristic of this little K03S since I plan on switching out turbo's very soon. 

I'm running a Gonzo Custom Stage 3 tune and it pulls really well for a small turbo and with the W/M getting 9*C IAT's at 25psi is pretty cool. I just don't feel I'm getting the most out of my kit.

I'd also like to know where to find a flow sensor so I can see a light come on to tell me fluid is going to the nozzle. ( I ran that snow nitro stuff and now my washer fluid sensor is dead:banghead: ) Still want to know it's spraying though.

Thank YOU!!!!:wave:


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

google about WM mixes, there is SOOOOOO much information out there its ridiculous. pure water can be hard to tune and adds not extra fueling to the system, simply cooling and steam pressure in the cylinder. water is also incompressible, so it's infinite octane. Methanol on the other hand can evaporate before it hits the cylinder, plus its a fuel, and the octane for it is like 116 or something.

get to goolging and if you have questions post up and I'm sure someone will float on through.


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## [email protected] (Jan 13, 2005)

DMVDUB said:


> I currently have a 3gph nozzle running and I'm running low temp washer fluid for my mix (going through a lot while testing so I'd like to keep it cheap)


That nozzle is perfectly sized for a hard-running K03. So, good job on the selection. The washer fluid you're using is about 70% water which is appropriate for extremely hot ambient temperatures. That's as little methanol as I'd ever run in any circumstances.



> 1st, can someone explain what would be the advantage of running pure distilled h20 vs a w/m mix?


You'd increase total cooling capacity and octane at the expense of more difficult and more frequent tuning and retuning. 



> I'd like to run a more aggressive timing map but with a 3* advance I'm getting serious pull. My intake temps on a 60*f day have gotten as low as 9*C though


If you're getting big pull with low intake temperatures and non-radical timing advance... then the problem is likely to be lack of sufficient control. 



> Could I change my mix to reduce knock even more?


You could but it'll come with some downsides. 



> 2nd, I'm running a 3gph nozzle right before the TB hose in my intercooler pipe and I'm wondering if I should add another nozzle using a USRT plate? maybe a lower nozzle of some sort?


The first nozzle is best placed immediately after the intercooler so as to leave maximum distance between itself and the throttle plate. More distance = more evaporation = more cooling. The second nozzle should go just after the throttle because minimized distance (to the combustion chamber) = maximum evaporation INSIDE the chamber = octane boost = opportunity to crank up boost and timing.

This is a much better idea than running significantly more water.



> I've also contemplated running a preturbo nozzle to see if I can change the characteristic of this little K03S since I plan on switching out turbo's very soon.


This will definitely improve charger efficiency but can slowly erode the compressor blades. To do it safely requires very high pressures and superior atomization from the nozzle. A teeny nozzle placed a at least a couple of feet from the charger (*after* the MAF) could work, but it's potentially dangerous. Also, this will reduce intercooler efficiency because the temperature differential between ambient and IAT will be reduced. (So, less heat can be exchanged.)



> I'd also like to know where to find a flow sensor so I can see a light come on to tell me fluid is going to the nozzle. ( I ran that snow nitro stuff and now my washer fluid sensor is dead:banghead: ) Still want to know it's spraying though.


If all you want is to see that the pump is powered , then a simple LED will do the job. On the other hand, if you want to see the actual flow rate or be 100% sure that the nozzles are getting pressure/flow, then you'll want a Fail Safe Box.

P.S. Krieger's advice is spot on. Well, that is except for the bit about methanol's octane level. It's really only about 104 - 107. Water is truly the "special sauce". However, too much sauce makes for a poor meal. It's all about balance. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## DMVDUB (Jan 11, 2010)

Thanks Guys!

I'm trying to get my hardware setup as optimal as possible so I can run a Dyno for Gonzo. Showing what a custom tune, W/M, 3" straight through exhaust, FMIC, TIP, High Flow Manifold, Ported K03S all the bolt-on's essentially is capable of producing with a great tune and a little ol' K03S before I switch out to a Stage 3 T3/T4E 60T or GT2871R


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## Krieger (May 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> However, too much sauce makes for a poor meal. It's all about balance. :thumbup::thumbup:


:beer: I like that analogy.


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