# I thought you would find this interesting



## VRTT (Jun 4, 2004)

Electrolytic Rust Removal using you batter charger, works awesome








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5I5WBG5HPw












_Modified by VRTT at 3:28 AM 12-20-2009_


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## veedubb7 (Apr 20, 2002)

*Re: I thought you would find this interesting (VRTT)*

I wonder how well that would work on wheel assembly bolts?


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## VRTT (Jun 4, 2004)

so far I've been able to restore a vr6 rad crossmember and a few other miscellanious items but before getting carried away on your project, hydrogen enbrittlement of the steel should be taken into consideration, apparently this weakens the steals to a degree, although you can reverse the adverse effects by cooking it in the oven. 


_Modified by VRTT at 7:18 PM 1-2-2010_


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## Divinitous (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: (VRTT)*

I did this to my knuckles on the jeep. Works great, cooked them @ 350° F for an hour in the oven afterwords. So far I've bounced the jeep off of rocks, ripped a chunk off of my aluminum rim, and bent the tie-rod. Knuckles are still holding strong.
My method was a dual stainless steel sink that I found on the side of the road. Plugged up the drains and suspended the parts with some pieces of orange safety fence. Give em a good sizzle overnight. Drain the scummy water, scrub em down, cook em, and give em a coat of paint. They will rust fast, so make sure you don't forget the painting step.
Mae sure you leave it outside, the bubbles are hydrogen. You can hold a lighter to the bubbles and watch the flame get excited. And the solution does freeze, so plan accordingly.

_Modified by Divinitous at 12:16 PM 1-8-2010_


_Modified by Divinitous at 12:17 PM 1-8-2010_


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## VRTT (Jun 4, 2004)

I was temped by the bathtub in my house, wondering what I could fit in there, then I thought, I better not


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## e36rok (Jul 12, 2007)

*Re: (VRTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRTT* »_this weakens the steals to a degree, although you can reverse the adverse effects by cooking it in the oven. 

_Modified by VRTT at 7:18 PM 1-2-2010_

The steel would need to get quenched and tempered, not thrown in your oven for a while.


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## SlamYourCupboards (Oct 16, 2009)

*Re: (e36rok)*


_Quote, originally posted by *e36rok* »_
The steel would need to get quenched and tempered, not thrown in your oven for a while.

Very true, when you heat and and let cool a piece of mild steel there is no change what so ever to the metal. When steel gets hot all of the carbon crystals line up in a straight line instead of being all bunched up, if you were to cool this steel off rapidly these crystals would stay lined up creating extreme brittleness (depending on how fast it has been cooled down). When this happens any sort of scratch or scrap on the steel becomes very stressed and usually is a place that will be prone to break.
Now, like e36rok said you need to do a quenching and tempering process to actually change the strength of the steel. In this process you will heat the steel until it is red or orange hot and then slowly submerge it in a bath (most popualraly used motor oil). Once the steel isn't red hot anymore, since it has been inside the oil, you take it out and scrape off a bit of oil. Depending on what you are doing (tempering a chisel or and center punch ect.) once you scrape off the oil you watch the steel, Different colours will start to rise up the to the tips of the item you are tempering, usually blue's and yellows. What you will be looking for is a straw yellow colour, you want to wait until this colour has reached the very tip of your piece and then you will put the steel back in the oil to fully cool it. 
You do this because the motor oil is full of carbon. In steel the higher the carbon content the strong and possibley more brittle (if this isn't done right) it will be. This ranges from mild steel, which is the most widley used to tool steel, which it gets it name from being used to make tool like chisels and punches from its high crabon contenet.


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