# How to change oil on a 2009 VW EOS 2.0 turbo



## sdavern (Aug 15, 2009)

I just bought a 2009 VW EOS 2.0 turbo. I love it. I will be changing the oil on it in the near future. I will be using Castrol full synthetic. I purchased the oil filter from the VW dealership. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.


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## IrregularApocalypse (May 13, 2009)

*Re: How to change oil on a 2009 VW EOS 2.0 turbo (sdavern)*

I think I posted this elsewhere (TSI forum), but I'll paste it below so you won't have to go search:
I just did an oil change on our 2009 Eos, which has the 2.0 TSI. I wrote up the procedures below, which are probably way more detailed than necessary. The Bentley eBahn manual wasn't much help; fortunately it did have the all-important torque values. The oil and filter change on the TSI engine truly is a breeze, but you will need a few tools. One caveat: these are tips only - I'm not responsible if you drop your car on your head, or goof something up.
If anyone finds any mistakes, please post and I'll edit as required.
Notes:
- The 76mm 14 flute oil filter cap wrench can be had for about $5 at your local Advance, Pep Boys, etc. Just to take your VW filter into the auto parts store and find the one that fits. All of these type cap wrenches seem to use 3/8" drive. The official $25 VW oil filter cap wrench is actually 74.4mm 14 flute, but the 76mm works fine.
- The belly pan on the Eos may be different from other VW models. Your particular VW may have different fasteners holding the pan on. It may also have better drain plug access, making removal completely unneccessary.
- "Triple square" screws require special triple square bits, sometimes referred to as XZN bits. They superficially resemble a 12-tooth spline drive, but they're not - the teeth are 90 degrees, not 60. I got a nice set of VIM triple square bits for about $25 off eBay. If you plan on working on your late-model VW, you'll use them elsewhere - the seat attach bolts, for instance.
- Aftermarket magnetic drain plugs that use replaceable crush washers can be found on several sites, such as ECS Tuning, Metalnerd, etc. Thread size is 14x1.5.
Supplies:
- 5 quarts of your favorite VW 502 spec oil per owner’s manual. This will set you back about $35, depending on brand.
- Oil filter, $12-13. Note that the TSI has a metal spin-on filter on top of the engine, not a messy ol' paper element in a plastic housing underneath the engine like the FSI.
- New factory drain plug, or a reusable aftermarket drain plug with a a new crush washer.
Tools:
- 18mm socket for factory drain plug. An aftermarket drain plug may be a different size.
- 76mm 14 flute cap wrench for oil filter
- 3/8" drive socket wrench
- 3/8" drive torque wrench capable of 30Nm. You can of course do the job without a torque wrench, but I highly recommend you use one on the filter and drain plug.
- 3/8” extension
- T20 torx driver (if you remove Eos belly pan, your VW may differ)
- 8mm triple square bit (if you remove Eos belly pan, your VW may differ)
- Ramps or jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Oil drain pan
- Funnel
Procedures:
1. Warm the car up a bit, and turn it off and put it up on ramps or jack stands. Chock rear wheels.
2. Optional: Remove engine cover, the rectangular plastic thing with “TSI” on it. It just pulls up and off, there are four hidden tabs holding it onto the engine. Removing the engine cover makes it a little easier to access the oil filter, which is located at the upper front left corner of the engine.
3. Wipe off sand/dirt from the rubber grommet around the oil filler cap, and loosen the cap.
4. Optional: Remove the belly pan. At least on the Eos, it appears that pulling the drain plug will result in a messy, dirt-collecting coating of oil on the top of the belly pan, given the small size of the rectangular access and its proximity to the drain hole. I also think it's good practice to look around underneath the engine when doing oil changes, to see if anything is amiss. For my 2009 Eos, the pan is held on with eight T20 torx screws, and eight 8mm triple square screws. Your car may have more or less, and fastener types may vary.
5. Remove the drain plug with the appropriate socket and let oil drain into the drain pan.
6. Once the flow diminishes out of the drain, loosen the oil filter with the cap wrench slowly until you see the flow increase again. Be patient - don’t remove the filter all the way; let its oil drain through the engine into the drain pan.
7. When the flow slows down again, unscrew the filter the rest of the way by hand and pick the filter straight up. There shouldn’t be any drips - sweet!
8. Lube the new filter with oil and install. Tighten to 22Nm with the cap wrench, 3/8” extension, and torque wrench.
9. Install a new drain plug, or an aftermarket drain plug with a new crush washer. Tighten plug to 30Nm with the appropriate socket and torque wrench.
10. Remove oil filler cap and fill engine with oil. A funnel doesn’t want to sit in the shallow fill opening by itself, so you’ll have to hold it in place while you pour the oil. I started with 4.5qt. Replace oil cap, and confirm oil level is okay on dipstick.
11. While you still have the car on ramps/jack stands, run engine and check for leaks.
12. Replace belly pan if previously removed. On the Eos, the torque value for the torx screws is 2Nm and for the triple square screws it’s 20Nm. I personally didn’t fool with a torque wrench for these secondary fasteners, and used a calibrated “snug” instead.
13. Remove chocks and lower car off ramps or jack stands.
14. Check dipstick again with the car level, and add oil as required to get it to the max level. Factory capacity is 4.9qt, or 4.6l.
15. Snap the plastic engine cover back in place.
Done!


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## TuscaniElisaV6 (Jun 20, 2003)

you get free oil changes for three years....


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## IrregularApocalypse (May 13, 2009)

*Re: (TuscaniElisaV6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TuscaniElisaV6* »_you get free oil changes for three years.... 

Unfortunately the freebie changes are limited to the ones coinciding with the first three 10K service intervals; some folks like myself won't be waiting that long.


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## sdavern (Aug 15, 2009)

*Re: (IrregularApocalypse)*

Thanks for the tips/guide. I certainly do not want to wait for 10,000 miles to pass for my first oil change. So I will change the oil every 5,000 miles. What are your thoughts on an "oil extractor" to suck the oil out instead of removing the splash guard and oil drain plug?


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## IrregularApocalypse (May 13, 2009)

*Re: (sdavern)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdavern* »_Thanks for the tips/guide. I certainly do not want to wait for 10,000 miles to pass for my first oil change. So I will change the oil every 5,000 miles. What are your thoughts on an "oil extractor" to suck the oil out instead of removing the splash guard and oil drain plug?









I've never used an oil extractor, but some folks swear by them. With the TSI's top mounted oil filter there would be no need to jack the car at all. However, over the years while under vehicles doing oil changes I've found things that otherwise would have gone unnoticed, such as split CV boots. So, it comes down to personal preference. I have to admit I enjoy puttering around the garage on a Saturday morning.


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## iPinch (Oct 25, 2008)

*Re: (IrregularApocalypse)*

I wouldn't you go with the manufacturer recommended interval?


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## sdavern (Aug 15, 2009)

*Re: (iPinch)*

There are a number of threads on this site that state that







even synthetic oil breaks down just after 5,000 miles. When I bought my EOS from the dealer even he said that I should change the oil every 5,000 miles (not the recommended 10,000 miles). Thanks for all the tips. I'll be changing my oil next week.


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## oasis (Apr 22, 2003)

*Re: (sdavern)*

Great extensive write-up on the oil change.
I, too, feel the 5,000 mile change is extra insurance worth the extra expense. My long-time Dub shop and my new favorite dealership agree. At the very worst, you are doing no harm.
But both stress using the specific oil that is factory mandated is a must.


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## sdavern (Aug 15, 2009)

Mission accomplished. Oil extractor worked great. My dealership repair guy tells me that in order to get the service needed icon of my dashboard I need it done with his "computer". I've got a feeling this is not true. Does anyone know how to get the "service needed" icon off?


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## IrregularApocalypse (May 13, 2009)

*Re: (sdavern)*

I'm sure the dealer would love to charge you to do it, but you can reset it yourself. I saw the procedure in the owner's manual (yes, I read through it after we bought the car). I remember saying to myself, "Cool, I won't need to fire up VAG-COM to reset the icon after I change the oil." IIRC it's some combination of hitting the odometer reset "0.0" button, the clock "MIN" button, and turning the key on and off, but don't quote me on that -


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