# DIY transmission valve body replacement completed



## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Yesterday Dennis was over my house and we threw his Phaeton on the lift so he could swap out his valve body.

Even though most of this is already covered in Mike's trans fluid change thread, we took some pics for a quick how-to. 

Like most things, it wasn't difficult, and certainly a LOT cheaper than whatever a dealer would charge. Fixing things yourself always gives me a sense of accomplishment, and never a bad way to knock back a couple beers.

Disclaimer, this is just a simple overview. Refer to the Bentley manual or google Audi trans fluid change if you need more info.


Getting under the car














Pulling the drain plug














Draining the old trans fluid















Breaking loose the cross member bolts with a big ass ratchet.














Then you have to use a wrench on the top of these bolts as they are not captured nuts. 
























Next, removing the trans oil pan bolts. You can do this by hand, but there are twenty something bolts IIRC, so an air ratchet is quicker.














Pan off, showing the trans filter attached to the bottom of the valve body.















Pull down on the filter to release, showing the valve body + wiring harness.













Locate the harness plug next to the side of the pan. Twist and release.























Then the metal retaining clip gets removed, so you can push the harness plug housing in through the hole it is mounted in.-






















Next up, remove the bolts holding the valve body in. In typical German manner, there is a diagram and warning to only remove certain bolts and not other bolts. Silly thing is, it is quite simple. The bolts you need to remove are all larger than the ones you don't touch which are smaller. Hard to tell from the picture, but easy to see in real life. Piece of cake, no brainer.















Trans with valve body removed-













New valve body sitting next to the old one. The wiring harness gets swapped over and just plugs in.






















We took pictures of putting it back together, but it's pretty much the same thing, just in reverse.


All that was left, is to fill the trans with new fluid. You will need a vag-com to monitor temperature and some patience as the fluid is gravity fed. If I ever assist in doing this job again.. or change the fluid on my Phaeton.. I will pressurize a container to speed up the process. Even then, it will take a while for the process. We ran + flushed it about 6 times if I remember right, as we were switching to the blue fluid from the amber.


Again, like may other things the factory does..there is a special tool for this. It consists of a bottle you fill with fluid and hang from your latch on the open hood to feed through a hose to an angled metal tube that gets stuck in the trans. I'm sure it costs a lot for something so simple.

We improvised. (funnel, tape, and a vinyl hose) 













Once the fluid starts coming out the fill hole, you need a way to stop the flow. :laugh:


----------



## climbingcue (Feb 2, 2001)

:thumbup: :thumbup: nice work...


----------



## Jxander (Aug 5, 2008)

Josh:

Great work. If I recall, you were replacing the valve body and changing fluid because of harsh shifting. Have you gotten a chance to see if it has resolved the problem? I had my transmission replaced courtesy of VW and my CPO warranty. However, I always believed that a valve body replacement would have solved my issues - which seemed more like flawed control or timing of the shifting rather than the actual shifts themselves.

In addition, where did you source the valve body and the blue fluid. I ask because you always seem to find quality parts at the "best" prices.

Thanks.

Jim X


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Josh:

Thank you for making such a well illustrated and informative post.

What was the reason for replacing this part - in other words, what type of symptoms would cause someone to want to replace this part?

Michael


----------



## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Hi Guys,


Yes, Dennis's car would occasional shift strangely. The 2 mains things I noticed were a clunk as it downshifted when pulling up to a stop sign or redlight and also sometimes when accelerating it seemed to get confused and not shift smoothly or when it should. Yes, as if it is a control or timing issue.

A couple months or so ago, he paid a dealer to do a fluid flush to see if it would help. They suggested simply changing the fluid and filter, staying with the amber color and not upgrading the software. Unfortunately, it did not change the way the trans behaved.

The valve body Dennis found FS here in the Phaeton classifieds if I am not mistaken. It has the upgraded software and was new / unused. I suggested he take a gamble and try replacing it as the only other remaining option after that I am aware of would be another trans which wouldn't be worth it. Dennis is going to have the ECM software upgraded to match.


The fluid was bought from Parts.com. They are the cheapest place to get factory parts that I know of. (cheaper than 1st VW parts, Impex, ECS, etc) 

Interestingly enough, the box although labeled with a VW info sticker..has machine ink printing from Shell with some numbers. I'm going to google them and see if we can find any other sort of supplier and possibly bypass 'vw' markup.


From the little test drive we took once finished last night, it seems better (never clunked while I was in the car). Only time will tell. :thumbup:


----------



## madreg98 (Jun 1, 2009)

Had a great and messy time installing the new valve body at Josh's (beer helped!!). A couple of comments. Josh is correct that the major issue was on deceleration the car would clunk down to the next lowest gear. Normally from 3 to 2 and/or 2 to 1. Very noticable. Acceleration issues were most noticable when the trans was cold. Under neutral load the car would sometimes hesitate before shifting gears that resulted in a clunk.

After we completed the job I drove the car back to my house, approx 50 miles, with no clunking on downshift and under slightly agressive acceleration, no clunking.

The final problem occurs when the trans is cold. No downshift clunking but some hunting around during neutral demand shifting. Once the trans is up to temperature the performance is great. I am hoping the the ECM software upgrade will fix the problem when the trans is cold.

Dennis


----------



## Auzivision (Apr 19, 2007)

Great Thread! 

Thanks for sharing all the pictures and experience.


----------



## glorentz (Feb 14, 2009)

How she driving after we got the fluid level right Dennis?


----------



## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Driving fantastic!! (He is in Florida right now, Phaeton stayed in PA). 

He is very happy with the way it turned out. :thumbup::beer:


----------



## glorentz (Feb 14, 2009)

Good to hear!!


----------



## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

Regarding the symptoms experienced that precipitated the need for a valve body replacement: the 2004-2008 or thereabouts Touareg V8 had the same engine (Audi 4.2L) and a transmission that is probably very similar (6 gear). I know because we have one in addition to our Phaeton W12.

Well, the Touareg forums are full of Touareg valve body replacements for the same reasons as this Phaeton.


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

I hadn't previously seen this thread. Hats off to PowerDubs, you've got larger cojones than I have, that looks like one scary job!


----------



## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Thank you sir for the compliment. Sorry it took me almost 2 years to see it!!


----------



## Faszination (Aug 18, 2007)

Josh,

When you say flushed the fluid 6 times can I ask how you did this? How did you make sure all of the old fluid was removed?

I have done this a couple of times on a Merc 722.6 box and it is relatively simple to achieve by undoing the fluid return hose and dumping into a bottle. Can a similar process be used on the Phaeton?

Cheers

Ian


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

*Transmission shift problems........ valve body information*

Anyone experiencing shift problems (up or down) may benefit from viewing the following links;

http://www.sonnax.com/videos/5-Zip-Kit-Video (watch the video)

https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/uploads/unit/valve_body_layout/414/ZF19-26-32_VBL.pdf

The links will show that MOST shift problems originate in the valve body.

I recently sourced a Zip Kit in North America for the ZF6HP19A (6 speed trans in a 4.2 V8, MY2004) at a price of 250C$ + tax and shipping. It takes 3 hours (max) to remove AND reinstall the valve body. Estimate another 1.5 hours to replace all the solenoids and the cost of the ATF, new filter & pan gasket and it is possible to spend as little as 1,200 - 1,500C$ to have a fully serviced smooth shifting transmission - like Herr Sagert does in Dortmund.

If this sounds like good news for you, then this bit will be even better......... any garage that is comfortable/experienced working on automatic transmissions can do the work - even on a Phaeton!!

Regards,
Sacha


----------



## Saeid (May 29, 2013)

Hi Sacha
The Zip Kit you are referring to, is it ZF6-6R60-ZIP?

You also mention solenoids replacement, which is not part of the kit. Where did you get those? And an estimate on the price for these?

If I can source them out easily, I may attempt this repair.

Thanks for your help
Saeid


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

Saeid said:


> Hi Sacha
> The Zip Kit you are referring to, is it ZF6-6R60-ZIP?
> 
> You also mention solenoids replacement, which is not part of the kit. Where did you get those? And an estimate on the price for these?
> ...


Hello Saied,
Yes, ZF6-6R60 is the kit that I priced. I apologize that my post was not as clear as it needed to be with respect to the solenoids. The original solenoids have to be removed and fitted with the o-rings provided in the kit. I don't know the price of new solenoids.

You may choose to do the work yourself, but my approach to the repair is to have a qualified garage do the work ie: removal/bench testing the valve body in it's original condition, refurbish the valve body and reinstall in the transmission, replenish the ATF etc.

I sourced the ZIP-Kit on the Sonnax website. You can find a source of supply nearest you by clicking on the "Where to Buy" tab on the website. I am concerned (still trying to figure out) if the 6HP19A for the V8 4.2 Phaeton is included in the Sonnax "generation 1" designation. You should question whichever source of supply that you talk to on that issue. I'll let you know if I get a confirmation on that concern in the days to come. I'm also planning to find out where to source a fully refurbished valve body..... that may take longer.

Regards,
Sacha


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

Saeid said:


> Hi Sacha
> The Zip Kit you are referring to, is it ZF6-6R60-ZIP?
> 
> You also mention solenoids replacement, which is not part of the kit. Where did you get those? And an estimate on the price for these?
> ...


Hello Saied,
Yes, ZF6-6R60 is the kit that I priced. I apologize that my post was not as clear as it needed to be with respect to the solenoids. The original solenoids have to be removed and fitted with the o-rings provided in the kit. I don't know the price of new solenoids.

You may choose to do the work yourself, but my approach to the repair is to have a qualified garage do the work ie: removal/bench testing the valve body in it's original condition, refurbish the valve body and reinstall in the transmission, replenish the ATF etc.

I sourced the ZIP-Kit on the Sonnax website. You can find a source of supply nearest you by clicking on the "Where to Buy" tab on the website. I am concerned (still trying to figure out) if the 6HP19A for the V8 4.2 Phaeton is included in the Sonnax "generation 1" designation. You should question whichever source of supply that you talk to on that issue. I'll let you know if I get a confirmation on that concern in the days to come. I'm also planning to find out where to source a fully refurbished valve body..... that may take longer.

Regards,
Sacha


----------



## Spulido (Oct 3, 2014)

*Hard shifting when warm*

Mine does hard shifting when coming to a stop but only when i have run the car for a while when its cold it works just fine is it just the valve body ? Or do i have to replace selenoids with it too


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

Spulido said:


> Mine does hard shifting when coming to a stop but only when i have run the car for a while when its cold it works just fine is it just the valve body ? Or do i have to replace selenoids with it too


Hello Spulido,
The solenoids are in the valve body. The best approach is to have the valve body removed and tested.

Regards,
Sacha


----------



## Spulido (Oct 3, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Hello Spulido,
> The solenoids are in the valve body. The best approach is to have the valve body removed and tested.
> 
> Regards,
> Sacha


Where do i take it to get it test or how do i do it ? Thanks in advance!


----------



## ThomaSX (Apr 17, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Anyone experiencing shift problems (up or down) may benefit from viewing the following links;
> 
> http://www.sonnax.com/videos/5-Zip-Kit-Video (watch the video)
> 
> ...


Can this be a DIY? Has anyone done it?


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

Spulido said:


> Where do i take it to get it test or how do i do it ? Thanks in advance!


Hello Spulido,

There is information on the sonnax website that should help you to find a source of supply to have your valve body tested.
Click on "Where to Buy" to have a list of Sonnax dealers/partners - it is a place to start.

I believe that here is "test equipment" that either comes with the "Zip-Kit" or can be ordered seperately. That may be the way to go (DIY) if you are mechanically inclined/gifted/equipped etc.

Regards,
Sacha


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

Spulido said:


> Mine does hard shifting when coming to a stop but only when i have run the car for a while when its cold it works just fine is it just the valve body ? Or do i have to replace selenoids with it too


Hello Spulido,

I have found that the solenoids can be bought separately at a cost of 600.00 to 700.00 US$. The info is available from "Cobra Transmission" 1-800-293-1848
Eriksson Industries also offers solenoids but you have to call to get a price; 1-800-388-4418

It is not impossible that one of the solenoids is not "firing", but it is much more likely that a solenoid is not "well seated" in it's channel within the valve body..... most likely because the o-rings have degraded causing gaps in the solenoid channels and therefore loss of fluid pressure and therefore a wonky shift. If the breakdown of the o-rings is severe enough, the solenoid "core" can actually "scar" the valve body channel that it sits in - more problems.

This is a rather long-winded way to suggest that (whether DIY or by a garage) the best course of action is to test the valve body for pressure loss. The Zip-Kit is all about restoring correct pressures. And it is definitely the least expensive way to tackle the problem.

Hope this helps.
Regards,
Sacha


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

ThomaSX said:


> Can this be a DIY? Has anyone done it?


Hello ThomaSX,
It is very possible to DIY the fix with the "Zip-Kit" but you do need to be properly equipped to get the valve body out of the car, back in, and then re-fill the transmission. The posts and pictures at the beginning of this thread say it all.

It should be understood, however, that the subject at the beginning of this thread did not take the valve body apart to refurbish it. Their approach was to replace the valve body completely with a unit that was bought on ebay. The removal and replacement was entirely DIY. If you have the equipment, time and energy to remove the valve body, but not the confidence to install the Zip-Kit in the valve body, you could find a transmission specialist that could that for you.

Whichever way you decide to do the repair, you should make absolutely sure that you get the right "kit" for the transmission that is in your car. Check carefully with Sonnax.

I don't know where you live in Hungary, but, if your budget and time permits, you have the option of visiting Herr Sagert in Dortmund (Germany). You may find that using his expertise is a less expensive and more effïcient solution. I am told that he charges about 800 euros to do a transmission "service" - there are people on this Forum who have used his services and who have said they were happy with the results.

Regards,
Sacha


----------



## Spulido (Oct 3, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Hello ThomaSX,
> It is very possible to DIY the fix with the "Zip-Kit" but you do need to be properly equipped to get the valve body out of the car, back in, and then re-fill the transmission. The posts and pictures at the beginning of this thread say it all.
> 
> It should be understood, however, that the subject at the beginning of this thread did not take the valve body apart to refurbish it. Their approach was to replace the valve body completely with a unit that was bought on ebay. The removal and replacement was entirely DIY. If you have the equipment, time and energy to remove the valve body, but not the confidence to install the Zip-Kit in the valve body, you could find a transmission specialist that could that for you.
> ...


I want to refurbish the valve body ? Where do i get the correct one for an audi tt 2003 i had understood that it was the same as for a volkswagen . Thanks!


----------



## DavePhaeton (Sep 5, 2014)

Spulido said:


> I want to refurbish the valve body ? Where do i get the correct one for an audi tt 2003 i had understood that it was the same as for a volkswagen . Thanks!


I might be wrong but isn't the gearbox in a TT a DSG box? not a tiptronic as is in the Phaeton


----------



## PowerDubs (Jul 22, 2001)

Correct. But either way off topic for this forum.


----------



## Saeid (May 29, 2013)

So, I bought the Zip Kit as mentioned above and confirmed with Sonnax the it works with the 6HP16A Valve Body.
Came out the valve body and made the replacement as per instruction manual with one problem that if you take separation plate apart you really need to order one as the printed gasket will get damaged.
In my case the old plate was used and after I put every thing back together and reinstalled the valve body. I got much better performance but not good enough. also I had changed the ATF a month earlier.
So rather than ordering the plate and redoing the work I just gave up and ordered the mechatronic with software which also came with anew filter and harness got it in 3 days and installed it today and just came back from the test drive and all good and shifts like it should now mid you it was only a 20 km drive.
Previously to changing the Mechatronic transmission would slip in 1-2, 2-3 ok in 4 and 5 and would not engage in the 6th at all and after couple of up shifting to 6th I would get PRNDS/limp mode.
I could drive it ok when I would engage in the manual shift and not going to the 6th gear.
So if I find and issue in the next few days I will report back otherwise I consider this issue fixed. all thanks to Josh's clear instructions, this was an easy job.
When adding the transmission fluid and you thin it is toped up correctly at the right temperature I suggest testing it again as I was able to add additional 0.7 liters the next day before removing from the jacks.


----------



## [email protected] (Apr 6, 2012)

Saeid said:


> So, I bought the Zip Kit as mentioned above and confirmed with Sonnax the it works with the 6HP16A Valve Body.
> Came out the valve body and made the replacement as per instruction manual with one problem that if you take separation plate apart you really need to order one as the printed gasket will get damaged.
> In my case the old plate was used and after I put every thing back together and reinstalled the valve body. I got much better performance but not good enough. also I had changed the ATF a month earlier.
> So rather than ordering the plate and redoing the work I just gave up and ordered the mechatronic with software which also came with anew filter and harness got it in 3 days and installed it today and just came back from the test drive and all good and shifts like it should now mid you it was only a 20 km drive.
> ...


Saeid,
Great to hear that your efforts paid off. I am curious to know where you found a valve body, and how much you paid for it.

Sacha


----------



## Saeid (May 29, 2013)

Hi Sacha,
search ebay there should be few more for sale. I paid $145.00 there is a few still listed there $120.00 -$145.00
One area you should also look at is TCM as that might be the problem also and remanufacturing also is listed on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-6HP-TCM-...249?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ada6569f1
hope that helps.
The new valve body from the dealer is only around $1,500.00 Canadian
If you check it with the VCDS scan and look up the faults it should give you a clear idea. I think the transmission speed sensor is in the TCM and that is where most of the errors were in mine.
I have driven the car now about 800 KMS since the fix and it is working flawless.
Saeid


----------



## mikeillj (Feb 15, 2017)

thanks for the how to. i feel like i may need to replace my vavle body also. i just got a 2002 GTI and its shifting very hard. The guy i got it from said he just had shift seloniods done and oem fluids changed. Im getting a real hard shift at times and some times a late shift. Some people are telling me its the valve body and others are telling me i need a whole new trans. what do you think?


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Probably a totally different transmission, but fwiw, my transmission has those identical symptoms, always on downshifts in the lower gears. It shifts late which sometimes causes a thump. ZF are convinced it's internal to the transmission, a leaking main shaft seal they say. I removed my valve body and rotated the solenoids to see if the problem moved with them, which it didn't, confirming the ZF diagnosis of it not being related to the valve body. Doesn't necessarily mean you need a new transmission though, depending on how hard the shifts are. I can mitigate mine by breaking gently or using the paddle shifters for downshifting when stopping fast.


----------

