# GTI cam for increased power



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

Hi

i have read installing a mk2 gti cam puts some life in the driver lump,i have a GTI 2.0 agg mk3 engine. Does the camshaft from agg fits to my 1.6 driver? Is it better?
I would just replace the engine but local law doesnt allow that.

Thanks.


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

the 1.6 driver had a very mild cam, so any gti cam will boost it up a little. the mk2 gti cam was meant to be a little better than the agg cam. but the agg cam will definitely make a difference. remember to keep the tappets in order and swap them over with the cam:thumbup:


----------



## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

I'm not certain what you are saying, but the 1.6 engine has a mechanical cam and they had hydraulic cams from about '88 on [yes, there may be a few exceptions]. 

A mechanical cam and hydraulic cam may bolt in, but will not work right.


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

Its a 91 with 4 cam caps(replaced the cover gasket) so it has hidraulic tappets. Im thinking of replacing the cyl head along with injection system from agg plus exhaust manifold with downpipe.


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

the agg em needs the crank sensor. 1.6 block doesn't have it. you might be better getting a rotten mk2 gti donor car that still runs. that way you have everything you need in one go.


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

Nothing can be done, maybe external ring?
Maybe flywheel main seal flange with sensor, can it work with hall sensor ?


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

yeah you could do that. mount it on the crankshaft damper:thumbup:


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

not sure how the em would respond to a shorter stroke and a lower cr though.


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

For now i just replaced the camshaft with the gti one, doesnt see much improvement. I did a video and looks like 10s 0-100 km/h, i dont know the before times.


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

you could put an 1800 crankshaft and pistons in the 1.6 block all bolts in easily and you keep your engine number:thumbup:


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

I just bought a 1.8 GU 90hp engine. Its a little beat up, but all bearing journals look good, pistons are a little worn on compression ring groove, but with new rings should fall within 0.15 mm.

Odd starting, maibe CR too high?
Battery is good, is the starter motor different on 1.8?





Few times engine died with my foot on the clutch, and when i tried to start it just wouldn't turn over, like it was stuck. After multiple tries it turns over and starts. Tried this without spark, and does the same, even tries to start without SPARK.
Another thing is this knock i hear when i start the engine, like a diesel on too much starting fluid type of knock.
Anyway i fear it has to be disassembled again, it has a vibration when i feather the clutch in reverse, plus at some high rpms. I suspect the main journals are worn and have excessive play. I feel sorry for not measuring them, or the CR. I measured crank end play, it was 0.04mm well below 0.07 specified.
I attached a audio file with the knock at startup. Ignition timing is 10mm over diamond mark. 

Keeps getting better[]
Yesterday morning, this morning and evening, engine starts fine runs fine and after 10-20s runs very rough on 2-3 cylinders, misfiring. Keeping the throttle eventually gets going on all four. This evening after the engine stopped from misfiring, i pumped the gas pedal then it sounded like it had no compression. After 5 seconds cranking sounded ok and started, still misfiring. Maybe on cold start there is too much fuel and pumping the pedal gets more fuel but i don't see how it would affect compression, or there is a problem with the lifters.
Compression after 10 min running the engine was 100 psi on all four. burns some oil too, about 1l/100km.

These are the parts i bought, the codes were matched with aftermaket parts

026109675 valve seal febi
N 90592702 044103609D oil pan seal febi
026103181B flywheel seal
068103171F flywheel seal
026103383P cyl head gasket febi
049103384B cil head bolts febi
034105701 007 rod bearings GLyCO
026198491 main bearings GLyCO
N 90206103 flywheel bolts febi
026198151A piston rings GOETZE
026109173A timing belt cover febi
026129761E carb flange topran
037121005C water pump hepu

I also got some numbers on main bearing shell from the old GU engine, and i dont know what they mean. There was vw stamped on them and number 052561a 165sa. Is this std?


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

Back on the road after a lot of money and work. Now its a 1.8l with 2.0 AGG mpi injection. Crank sensor on damper pulley, with AGG distributor, cheap stainless 4-2-1 header. 
Pulls very nice.


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

In the end i bought a autotech 270, i must say it did not do much if any. I guess the mk3 2.0 agg cam was ok, idle is acceptable ac on at 800-850rpm. No chip yet.


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

that's odd. I put a schrick 268 in mine, and defo spun better at higher rpms. I think the ecu takes a while to adjust to it though. maybe your cam timing needs adjusting?


----------



## garryt (Dec 22, 2016)

did you have the head skimmed? you might have lost some cr if it was a direct swap onto the 1.8 block.


----------



## davidut5 (Jan 22, 2014)

When i fully rebuilt the engine, from my calculations it is around 10/1 measured cr. I also have some port done and gasket match on the head plus 51mm stainless exhaust with 3 straight through muflers.
My aem wideband says 13 afr top end with a 4 bar fpr, with the stock 3 bar was 14.5 top end. 
0-100km/h is 8-8.5s
I am leaning toward supercharging it with a mercedes blower for 0.5bar. Engine compression is 8bar, so either i measured wrong or the machine shop did a poor job on the cylinders(0.5mm over, new mahle pistons), the blower should be fine with this low compression and maybe 10-1 cr.
I have checked the cam timing and it is 1 degree off the center, i dont have an adjustable pulley to advance or retard.

Here is a third gear wot to redline before the 4 bar fpr and cam, and one with the autotech 270+4 bar fpr.


----------

