# DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*REPLACING THE SHIFTER ROD ON A MKIV 12V VR6*
The following procedure describes how to replace the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6. The shifter rod, whose real name is the intake manifold rotary change-over valve, is a long, 6-holed cylinder in the upper intake manifold that rotates 90° at certain RPMs to maximize low to mid-range torque. The change-over valve is more commonly known as the 'shifter rod', probably because VW lists the part as the 'shiftrod' in their parts database. A picture of the shifter rod can be seen below.









For a more technical explanation of how the shifter rod works in the variable-geometry manifold of the MKIV VR6, check out these four threads. Focus on Daemon42's posts in the first three and tachycardia's big post in the last.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1592359
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1655320
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1961975
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2944838 

The OEM shifter rod has a serious flaw in that the bushings that are used to keep the rod tight inside the manifold wear prematurely and cause the rod to rattle significantly somewhere between 2500 and 4000 RPMs (and even as low as 1400 RPMs if it's REALLY worn). See this YouTube video or this YouTube video for great examples of typical shifter rod rattle. When the rattle is bad enough, you can hear it inside the cabin of the car while driving and is loud enough to drive you nuts! To eliminate the rattle, you need to either (1) install a new OEM shifter rod (which comes with new OEM bushings) or (2) install a set of Paul's redesigned aftermarket bushings on your existing, compatible shifter rod (it must be the newer version of the rod, VW Part# 021 133 653 - if you have the older version of the rod, VW Part# 021 133 697 A, then you need to buy a new OEM rod to use Paul's bushings). This DIY will explain how to perform both of the above solutions.

The procedure below is based on a '99.5 Jetta GLS VR6, but should be applicable to all MKIV VR6s.
To replace the shifter rod, the following items are required:
- Phillips screwdriver
- T30 Torx screwdriver or wrench
- Large and small flat-blade screwdrivers

*REMOVING THE SHIFTER ROD:*
1. The shifter rod is located in the top, front section of the upper intake manifold, just to the left (passenger's side) of the VW insignia and to the front of the VR6 logo on the engine cover, as indicated by the yellow area in the picture below.









2. Remove the trim piece behind the driver's side headlight (actually part of the stock intake) by removing the two (2) Philips screws (yellow arrows in picture below) and pulling straight up on the trim piece (red arrow).









3. Pop the hood release cable (yellow arrow) out of its groove in the trim piece (also part of the stock intake) marked by the red arrow in the picture below.









4. Carefully pop the spark plug wires (yellow arrows in picture below) out of their grooves in the small engine cover (red arrow), remove the one (1) T30 screw (green arrow) and remove the engine cover piece (some wiggling may be necessary to get it out from under the wires).









5. Remove the trim piece marked by the red arrow in the picture below by removing the two (2) Phillips screws (yellow arrows) and then sliding the trim piece toward the rear of the car and then up and out. The hood release cable may catch on the inside surface of the trim piece while doing this, so some wiggling may be required.









6. Remove the long, thin engine cover piece on the passenger's side of the engine (red arrow in picture below) by removing the two (2) T30 Torx screws (yellow arrows) and carefully pulling up on the trim piece.









7. Remove the passenger's side end cap for the shifter rod (red arrow in picture below) from the side of the upper intake manifold by removing the two (2) T30 screws (yellow arrows) and then pulling the end cap off. The lower screw may be partially blocked by the A/C service port marked by the green arrow. You can carefully hold this port to the side to access the screw (it will be tough to do most likely), but don't be too rough with it. Just move it enough to get the screw out.









8. The picture below shows the inside surface of the end cap that was just removed. Note the green rubber bushing (yellow arrow) in the middle of the cap that supports and cushions the end of the shifter rod. Make sure that this bushing does not get lost.









9. The picture below shows the passenger's side of the manifold with the end cap removed. The red arrow points to the end of the shifter rod still installed in the manifold. If the green bushing shown in the image above is not in the end cap, then check the small shaft on the end of the shifter rod (yellow arrow). If it's still on that shaft, then pull it off and place it in the end cap. If it's not there, then it was lost somewhere and you'll need to buy a new one. You can get one as part of the SHIFTER ROD REPAIR KIT, which is VW Part# 071 198 763 . (FYI, the green bushing mentioned above and the red bushing in the repair kit (also mentioned in Step 16) are the same thing. The color doesn't matter. The green seal in the repair kit is different than the green bushing and is used to seal around the part of the shifter rod that protrudes through the vacuum drive unit (mentioned in Step 10).)

*Note: Some people will say that you don't need to remove the passenger's side end cap to replace the shifter rod, which is true. However, by removing this end cap and making sure that the green bushing is not attached to the shifter rod, you ensure that the bushing will not fall down into one of the intake manifold runners when sliding the shifter rod out later in this DIY. You don't want this to happen, unless you like removing the whole manifold to fish the bushing out. Trust me. I've had to do it.*


















10. The picture below shows the shifter rod's vacuum drive unit (red arrow) on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Remove the support bracket (green arrow) for the small engine cover piece (already removed) by removing the two (2) T30 screws marked by the yellow arrows.









11. The picture below shows a better view of the vacuum drive unit (which also serves as the driver's side end cap) and how it operates the shifter rod. When a vacuum is applied to the drive unit (controlled by the ECU and a solenoid valve), the actuator rod (yellow arrow) moves downward, causing the end of the white connecting lever (red arrow) to also move downward and resulting in the clockwise rotation of the shifter rod 90° (there is a tab on the driver's side end of the shifter rod and a corresponding groove in the drive unit that limits the rotation of the shifter rod).









12. The red arrow in the picture below points to the locking tab that secures the white connecting lever to the shifter rod. In order to remove the drive unit from the manifold, the lever needs to be disconnected from the shifter rod. This is accomplished by depressing the locking tab and separating the lever and rod. 









13. You can attempt to depress the locking tab and then slide the connecting lever toward the driver's side of the car, but this is easier said than done. Some people have used too much force and reported that the tab has broken when doing this, so be careful if you decide to use this method. The easiest way that I have found to disconnect the lever and rod is to use a large flat-blade screwdriver to simultaneously depress the tab slightly and push the shifter rod slightly INTO the manifold. The two pictures below illustrate how to do this. Basically, you place the tip of the screwdriver on the locking tab (make sure it's not touching the white lever though), hold the screwdriver parallel to the front edge of the car and ~30° relative to the ground and then give the handle end of the screwdriver a light whack with the palm of your hand (this may require more than one attempt, depending on how hard you hit it). 

*Note: This method works best on shifter rods that are worn, since the loose fit of the rod in manifold allows it to easily slide into the manifold. This method may be more difficult when the rod is new or not worn that much or if Paul's (A2T) replacement bushings are already installed since the tight fit of the rod in the manifold will offer more resistance. This method will still work with a rod that has a tight fit, but make sure not to go too nuts with how hard you hit the screwdriver placed on the locking tab. You don't want to accidentally break the locking tab and be forced to buy a new rod.*


















14. The picture below shows the rod having been pushed into the manifold by doing the above procedure. FYI, the rod doesn't need to completely move inside the manifold like shown below. It really only needs to move a few millimeters for the lever and rod to disconnect, so don't worry if yours doesn't end up looking exactly like mine. The picture does illustrate well though how worn my shifter rod and intake manifold were at 180k miles when this DIY procedure was performed. If I had hit the screwdriver hard enough, the shifter rod would have shot out of the far end of the manifold!
























15. With the connecting lever and shifter rod disconnected, you can now pull the vacuum drive unit off of the intake manifold. Remember that the base of the drive unit is connected to a vacuum hose and this hose limits how much and in what direction you can move the drive unit (you need to move it out of the way slightly so that the shifter rod can slide out of the manifold - I usually tuck it up under the front end). Be careful not to separate the drive unit and vacuum hose, but if you do, it's no big deal. Just reconnect the two and all will be good.
16. The picture below shows the vacuum drive unit disconnected from the intake manifold. Make sure that the red bushing (yellow arrow) that supports and cushions the end of the shifter rod is in the drive unit. If it's still on the shifter rod, then remove it and place it in the drive unit.









17. Finally, slide the shifter rod out of the driver's side of the intake manifold, as shown below. If the bushings on the rod are worn, it will slide out very easily and it will become very clear why the rod rattles so badly in the 2500-4000 RPM range. If your shifter rod still has a tight fit in the manifold (doubtful), then you might need to lightly tug on the rod to get it out. Be careful not to cut your fingers as some of the edges of the rod can be sharp!









*REINSTALLING THE SHIFTER ROD:*
18. Slide the shifter rod into the driver's side opening in the intake manifold. If you are installing a new OEM rod or your existing rod with Paul's aftermarket bushings, then the rod should be more difficult to install than it was to remove, especially after the point where one of the bushings enters the manifold. Most likely the difference will be great enough that you'll need to push fairly hard to get the new rod in. If using Paul's bushings, the fit will most likely be so tight that you'll need to use a rubber mallet or something similar to carefully pound the rod into the manifold. While this may seem odd or wrong at first, it's actually a good thing since the extra tight fit helps to ensure that the rod remains tight in the manifold and the rattle never returns.
19. Insert the shifter rod so that it is roughly centered in the manifold. The ends of the rod relative to the edges of the manifold should be roughly the same and similar to what's shown in Step 9.
20. Reinstall the passenger's side end cap and tighten the two (2) T30 screws.
21. Rotate the shifter rod so that the locking tab on the driver's side end of the rod is roughly at the 1 o'clock position. Refer to the picture in Step 12 for an idea of the correct position.

*Note: It is possible to install the shifter rod with the locking tab at either the 1 o'clock or 7 o'clock position. ONLY THE 1 O'CLOCK POSITION IS CORRECT! If the rod is installed with the tab at the 7 o'clock position, the rod will not be able to rotate and either the white connecting lever or the drive unit actuator rod may break when the drive unit attempts to rotate the rod.*

22. Install the vacuum drive unit by sliding it over the driver's side end of the shifter rod and reconnecting the white connecting lever to the rod. You may or may not hear a click when the locking tab catches.
23. Line up the engine cover support bracket with the holes in the drive unit and then install and tighten the two (2) T30 screws.
24. Reinstall the long, thin engine cover piece removed in Step 6 and tighten the two (2) T30 screws.
25. Reinstall the trim piece removed in Step 5, making sure that the hood release cable is between the trim piece and the front of the car and the piece fits into the appropriate slots. Pop the hood release cable back into the groove in the trim piece.
26. Reinstall the engine cover piece removed in Step 4 and pop the spark plug wires back in their grooves.
27. Reinstall the trim piece removed in Step 2, making sure that the hood release cable is to the rear of the trim piece and the driver's side edge of the trim piece fits into the appropriate slot.
28. That's it!







<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0"> 

*REPLACING THE OEM SHIFTER ROD BUSHINGS WITH PAUL'S AFTERMARKET BUSHINGS*
If you have a newer-style OEM shifter rod that has two, thick bushings (021 133 653 - see picture below) and not an older-style shifter rod with five, thin bushings (021 133 697 A - see picture below), then you can replace the two OEM bushings with a set of Paul's aftermarket bushings (see picture below). The design of the aftermarket bushings is far superior to the OEM design and should prevent the return of shifter rod rattle caused by worn bushings.

























29. To remove the OEM bushings from the shifter rod, insert a small screwdriver into the gap between the locking tabs on the edge of the OEM bushing (as shown below) and twist to separate the two halves of the bushing. Spin the bushing 180° and repeat. Remove the bushing from the rod. Repeat the above procedure for the other OEM bushing.









30. Separate one of Paul's bushings into its two halves by pulling them apart, as shown below.









31. The two halves are secured by small pins (red arrows in picture below) and need a light tug to be separated.









32. Install the bushing halves on the OEM rod and press the two halves TIGHTLY together (they may snap together, they may not - just make sure the two halves are touching). You also may want to put a little bit or LocTite or CrazyGlue on the pins so that the two halves can't separate inside the manifold. If they can separate(because the manifold is worn in the area of the bushings), even a little, then it may be difficult to remove the rod if you ever need to.
33. Install the improved shifter rod by following Steps 18 through 28.

*As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes in the above procedure or those that you make while performing it.*


_Modified by VgRt6 at 11:30 PM 2-27-2008_


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

OLD NEWS!


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## billcosbyhatesyou (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (ROCKnRLR)*

i'm going to take some pictures of the inside of my manifold, becaus i guarantee it's worn beyond repair, i've been through 3 rods and a set of the bushings and it still rattles







, now i keep getting a bank 2 trim too lean code which i think may have something to do with it


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (billcosbyhatesyou)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billcosbyhatesyou* »_i'm going to take some pictures of the inside of my manifold, becaus i guarantee it's worn beyond repair, i've been through 3 rods and a set of the bushings and it still rattles







, now i keep getting a bank 2 trim too lean code which i think may have something to do with it









Have you tried a set of Paul's bushings? I'm almost positive that my manifold is worn more than yours, that is unless you have more miles than me. I had Paul make me a custom set of bushings which were oversized. I had to sand them down until they just fit and the rod didn't bind. It took about a dozen iterations, but now the mani is completely silent. It's amazing and well worth the extra cost.
FYI, for those reading this who dont have the ridiculous number of miles that my engine does, Paul's normal bushings will work fine in a manifold that does not have excessive wear. If you're under 125-150k miles, then you probably fall into this category.
Gary


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## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

*Re: (billcosbyhatesyou)*

Nice DIY. I have Pauls bushing in mine for alittle while now and they are great. No more rattle.


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: (RavinJetta)*

I guess I have to get of my ass and install Paul's bushings which have been in a drawer for too long.


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## billcosbyhatesyou (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Have you tried a set of Paul's bushings? I'm almost positive that my manifold is worn more than yours, that is unless you have more miles than me. I had Paul make me a custom set of bushings which were oversized. I had to sand them down until they just fit and the rod didn't bind. It took about a dozen iterations, but now the mani is completely silent. It's amazing and well worth the extra cost.
FYI, for those reading this who dont have the ridiculous number of miles that my engine does, Paul's normal bushings will work fine in a manifold that does not have excessive wear. If you're under 125-150k miles, then you probably fall into this category.
Gary

yes, in fact i think i was one of the first batch, i have the "C" shaped bushings. they worked great for maybe 2k and then the same loss of power and rattling started. i have 85k on mine but i didnt replace the first rod until 72-73k. i have talked to him about making a set of oversized ones, although i've been on a mission to find a new manifold and use his busings in that, except no one besides undergroundvwparts has them used and he wont get back to me








i've replaced plug wires twice, plugs, o2 sensors, maf, repaired coilpack, got the software update, and i still cannot figure out why i get a lean code, it had to be the shifter rod letting too much air in at lower speeds when the engine is cold (which is when, according to plotted data, this occurs)


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## vr6ruckus (Oct 19, 2004)

*Re: (ROCKnRLR)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for Paul's bushings. Took me about 20 min. to install from start to finish--they work great, too.


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## vdub vr6 jetta (Jun 7, 2004)

*Re: (vr6ruckus)*

I don't think you need to remove both end cap, when I replace mine all I had to do was remove the driverside end cap, but if there is some logical reason for removing both ends please let me know


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (vdub vr6 jetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdub vr6 jetta* »_I don't think you need to remove both end cap, when I replace mine all I had to do was remove the driverside end cap, but if there is some logical reason for removing both ends please let me know









I explained the reason in the DIY. If you only remove the driver's side end cap, then there's a chance that the green bushing can fall into the manifold as the rod is slid out. By removing the passenger's side end cap, you can remove the bushing so you don't have to worry about this happening.
Gary


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## LSinLV (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
Have you tried a set of Paul's bushings? I'm almost positive that my manifold is worn more than yours, that is unless you have more miles than me. I had Paul make me a custom set of bushings which were oversized. I had to sand them down until they just fit and the rod didn't bind. It took about a dozen iterations, but now the mani is completely silent. It's amazing and well worth the extra cost.
FYI, for those reading this who dont have the ridiculous number of miles that my engine does, Paul's normal bushings will work fine in a manifold that does not have excessive wear. If you're under 125-150k miles, then you probably fall into this category.
Gary

wow! I fogot to check them...Hey Gary, I will take a listen to the intake this weekend and let you and Paul know the status of his V1.0 bushings....


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (billcosbyhatesyou)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billcosbyhatesyou* »_yes, in fact i think i was one of the first batch, i have the "C" shaped bushings. they worked great for maybe 2k and then the same loss of power and rattling started.

That's your problem. I had the actual first set of the C-shaped bushings and mine started to rattle again at about 2k miles also. The full-circumference bushings that he makes now are MUCH better. BTW, how many miles do youahve on the engine? His new-style bushings (not oversized) might actually work for you if your mileage isn't that high. At 180k miles, there was no chance of the stock size working for me, so I had to go with the oversized bushings.
Gary


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (ROCKnRLR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ROCKnRLR* »_OLD NEWS! 









You bastard! Do you realize how many hours I wasted at work yesterday writing this!?








Gary


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (lsinlv)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lsinlv* »_
wow! I fogot to check them...Hey Gary, I will take a listen to the intake this weekend and let you and Paul know the status of his V1.0 bushings....

Screw v1.0 Larry. Just get a set of the latest design and be done with this problem once and for all! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Gary


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## LSinLV (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
Screw v1.0 Larry. Just get a set of the latest design and be done with this problem once and for all! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Gary

I just sent Paul a PM...tot get them! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## billcosbyhatesyou (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_That's your problem. I had the actual first set of the C-shaped bushings and mine started to rattle again at about 2k miles also. The full-circumference bushings that he makes now are MUCH better. BTW, how many miles do youahve on the engine? His new-style bushings (not oversized) might actually work for you if your mileage isn't that high. At 180k miles, there was no chance of the stock size working for me, so I had to go with the oversized bushings.
Gary


well since his first batch hs problems is he replacing them on the house?








i have 85k on the motor. i'm gonna rip the rod out and see how worn the mani is, hopefully i can get away with the regular sized ones or whatever
btw, i moved my bitching to this thread to keep yours on topic:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1976571


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: (billcosbyhatesyou)*

I never installed my 1st batch C-shaped bushings...Can he swap 'em out for the newer ones?


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## billcosbyhatesyou (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (ROCKnRLR)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ROCKnRLR* »_I never installed my 1st batch C-shaped bushings...Can he swap 'em out for the newer ones?


i installed mine, can he swap them out for new ones?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (billcosbyhatesyou)*


_Quote, originally posted by *billcosbyhatesyou* »_

well since his first batch hs problems is he replacing them on the house?









He did mention a while back when we started working on the revised design that he would credit those who had bought the original design the amount they paid towards the purchase of the newer design (which is more labor intensive and costs a little more to make - the difference should be fairly small though). Please don't take my word for it though. I'm going to alert Paul to this thread and have him answer any questions himself.
Gary


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## billcosbyhatesyou (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_He did mention a while back when we started working on the revised design that he would credit those who had bought the original design the amount they paid towards the purchase of the newer design (which is more labor intensive and costs a little more to make - the difference should be fairly small though). Please don't take my word for it though. I'm going to alert Paul to this thread and have him answer any questions himself.
Gary


you know what, that's right, he did tell me that, but that was under a different sreenname of mine, but he does have my real name on record http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

I have the earlier C channel design for over 5k now and no rattling. I remember Paul saying that C channel design was good because it had a spring effect. I wonder if I should change mine to the new version?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (RavinJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RavinJetta* »_I have the earlier C channel design for over 5k now and no rattling. I remember Paul saying that C channel design was good because it had a spring effect. I wonder if I should change mine to the new version?

It was originally thought that the springiness of the 'C' design would keep the bushings nice and tight in the mani, but like the OEM bushings, the plastic "sets" and the springiness essentially disappears over time. The new design can not suffer from this problem since it's full circumference.
I would keep using the bushings you already have until they start to rattle (if they ever do) and then buy the new kind.
Gary


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## a2t2 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Glad to see this excellent thread by Gary. Shows how some ppl on this forum still want to provide others with valuable info.
_Modified by a2t2 at 7:00 PM 5-6-2005_


_Modified by EPilot at 10:10 PM 5-8-2005_


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## macksks (Nov 16, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

what about 24v?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (macksks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *macksks* »_what about 24v?

I'm not aware of any cases of a 24v shifter rod rattling. Since the 24v uses the same shifter rod with the same OEM bushings (021 133 653), this must be due to one of two reasons ...
1) No one has enough miles on their 24v yet for the problem to have surfaced
2) VW addressed the problem when they redesigned the manifold for the 24v and designed it in such a way that it doesn't suffer from the problem. Some of us have suspected that the 12v manifold expands too much when warm and/or when there is a high airflow rate through it. This would give the bearings just enough tolerance to start rattling. When the bushings rattle, they wear and at after some point, will always be loose in the manifold.
I could be totally wrong though.








Gary


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## ROCKnRLR (Oct 30, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Phaetons, Touaregs, Audi TTs and R32s come with the 3.2L version of the 24V. They might BS lowly 12V owners around with this issue; however, owners of the above mentioned vehicles are less inclined to accept the BSing around. 


_Modified by ROCKnRLR at 4:31 PM 5-7-2005_


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## ubergolf98turbo (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (ROCKnRLR)*

We'll see. It looks like a different p/n for some of the stuff on the 24v. So maybe VW figured out how they screwed up (or copied Pauls design, lol). 
Its amazing to see how schrick did this right and vw copied it, only making it far less reliable. typical vwl...hopefully they got it right on 24v, but time will tell...


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_











None, of the three







shifter rods I have, have the thin bushing pictured there








And how can I give Paul some kudos http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and cash?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (gehr)*


_Quote, originally posted by *gehr* »_
None, of the three







shifter rods I have, have the thin bushing pictured there









Well, you don't want your shifter rod to have those thin bushings. The older-style rod has them where the new bushings need to go, so the new bushings won't it. The newer-style rod actually has three slots for the small bushings in addition to the two larger bushings, but there shouldn't be any thin bushings in the three slots. My guess is that when they redesigned the rod, they just used the existing injection molds and machined the spots for the two larger bushings into it. The other three thin slots would still be present then.
What part# rod do you have? As long as it ends in 653, then you can use Paul's bushings.

_Quote, originally posted by *gehr* »_And how can I give Paul some kudos http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif and cash?

Click the link in the second paragraph of the DIY.
Gary


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Bump.








Gary


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
What part# rod do you have? As long as it ends in 653, then you can use Paul's bushings.
Click the link in the second paragraph of the DIY.
Gary

As always..........THANKS Gary http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
It is 653, I'm so looking forward to "quiet" acceleration for a change


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## RupertX (May 1, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

BUMP because alot of people will need this im sure. super easy. save some money.


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## 2k1 vr6 (Dec 22, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (RupertX)*

i have less than 20k miles on my 2k1 vr6. is it necessary to change mine now before the problem even starts?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (2k1 vr6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2k1 vr6* »_i have less than 20k miles on my 2k1 vr6. is it necessary to change mine now before the problem even starts?

The earlier the better. In addition to the bushings on the rod wearing in time, once the rod starts rattling, it will start to wear the inside of the manifold. If you can prevent the rattling from ever happening by using the aftermarket bushings, then you should never have to worry about it!








Gary


----------



## a2t2 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

somebody with a 24v should take the rod out and see if its any different - like measure intake mani bore, see how VW corrected it...or if VW corrected it...


----------



## ubergolf98turbo (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (a2t2)*

arent they different p/n's?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (ubergolf98turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubergolf98turbo* »_arent they different p/n's?

AFAIK, manifolds yes, shifter rods no.
Gary


----------



## a2t2 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

So if the shift rod is same, you would think the mani would be same too, atleast in that area...hopefully VW went to harder plastic or something in the mani. But those OEM bushings are awful..


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (a2t2)*

All you have to do is look at some of the pics on the Tex of the different manifods. The 12v is very differnt from the 24v and the R32 mani is even different from the 24v. The "hole" may be the same size, but the areas around it are completely different.
Gary


----------



## a2t2 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Yep, they are indeed different mani's. Lets hope VW got it right this go round


----------



## SpeedyGLX (Mar 29, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (a2t2)*

anyone with an update of how a2t2s improved bushings are working out?


----------



## Hamb0ne_VR6 (May 10, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Where can i buy a new shift rod cheapest online? THanks i wanna do this as i think this may be causing my engine noise


----------



## SpeedyGLX (Mar 29, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (Hamb0ne_VR6)*

bump


----------



## Hamb0ne_VR6 (May 10, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (SpeedyGLX)*

where the best place to get one beside the dealer? anyone


----------



## ubergolf98turbo (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (Hamb0ne_VR6)*

Get one what? You dont need a whole intake rod, just the mod'd bushings.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (ubergolf98turbo)*

I've had his bushings (the redesigned ones) for a while now and no rattles yet!








If you need to buy a new rod (because your existing one is the 697A, 5-bushing version), then chek out http://www.1stvwparts.com. They had them for $51.32 last time I checked. If you already have the two-bushing rod (653), then you don't need to buy a new one. You only have to buy a set of Paul's bushings.
Gary


----------



## Slipstream (Feb 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_I've had his bushings (the redesigned ones) for a while now and no rattles yet!








If you need to buy a new rod (because your existing one is the 697A, 5-bushing version), then chek out http://www.1stvwparts.com. They had them for $51.32 last time I checked. If you already have the two-bushing rod (653), then you don't need to buy a new one. You only have to buy a set of Paul's bushings.
Gary

Is there an easy way to tell which ones we have, without yanking the shiftrod out to find a part # (ie. VIN number, engine code, etc)?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (Slipstream)*

I'm sure there is a VIN cutoff, but I don't know what it is. The ETKA says that the '99.5, '00 and '01 cars use the 697A rod, but I was under the impression that the changeover to the 653 rod was earlier than '02. I could be wrong though.
The only real way to know is to take it out and look.
Gary


----------



## a2t2 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (Hamb0ne_VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Hamb0ne_VR6* »_where the best place to get one beside the dealer? anyone

the new bushings can now be had at http://www.gruvenparts.com


----------



## MacDalund (Jun 30, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (a2t2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *a2t2* »_
the new bushings can now be had at http://www.gruvenparts.com

Sweet! Anyone needing this feel confident you are getting a great part and great service! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## slim827vw (Jul 30, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (MacDalund)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MacDalund* »_
Sweet! Anyone needing this feel confident you are getting a great part and great service! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Yep http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

ive been noticing slight vibrations around 3K RPMs. also ive been noticing a significant loss of power and crappy mileage (~24 mpg @ granny driving). So i started searching around and came across this. Gary is the man!!! ordered the new rod as well as Paul's bushings. Hopefully this will get rid of the vibrations and restore some of the lost power


_Modified by Raktim81 at 1:56 PM 8-16-2005_


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## flananuts (Dec 13, 2004)

Does anyone know if the shifter rod problem is found in the 2001 Vr6 for the MKIV Jetta? I replaced mine on the 2000, but I think my buddy's 2001 may have the problem too....
Thanks
Flananuts


----------



## LSinLV (Nov 25, 2001)

*Re: (flananuts)*


_Quote, originally posted by *flananuts* »_Does anyone know if the shifter rod problem is found in the 2001 Vr6 for the MKIV Jetta? I replaced mine on the 2000, but I think my buddy's 2001 may have the problem too....
Thanks
Flananuts

it's a common problem on all 12V VR's...just listen under the hood with the engine areound 3,500 rpm's...you'll know by the rattling sound if the bushings are bad....


----------



## flananuts (Dec 13, 2004)

thanks, just wasn't sure if the 01 had a changed shifter rod, I remember that my old one, the bushings were worn down and so were part of the shifter itself. I'm going down to MD to fix his coil pack this weekend, so wanted to check on shifter rod, maybe have him pick it up for replacement since i'm there... thanks
Matt


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## slim827vw (Jul 30, 2005)

*Re: (flananuts)*

When I pulled my bushings off the rod they were completely round, and almost smaller then the rod itself. I dont think they were even touching the intake mani anymore








anyway, the new bushings from http://www.gruvenparts.com solved this problem http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Jaxvws412 (Sep 9, 2005)

*Re: (slim827vw)*

I think the 24v rod is larger in diameter. Atleast thats what the guy at dealer told me.


----------



## darkVR6 (Feb 11, 2005)

*Re: (Jaxvws412)*

After replacing my shifter rod bushings, I checked my car a few weeks later...the small white clip that attaches to the vaccum valve had broken off (maybe the shifter rod is binding?)
Anyways my question is this: Since I was driving around for a week without the vacuum vavle attached, I was in fact using the car with the shifterrod disabled. My car was as fast as ever, and it sounded smooth. Anybody know what difference this shifter rod is supposed to make? Cause I noticed none when it was disconected.

UPDATE: NM I guess mine got installed upside down which broke the little white piece. Now I have to bite the bullet and order the whole vacuum drive unit ($150 CDN [email protected]@#) Anyone know where to get this cheaper?
Also, after searching more, suppossedly I will gain low end torque with this installed correctly, but I never noticed any loss in low end??? 



_Modified by darkVR6 at 10:31 AM 10-13-2005_


----------



## MacDowell (Jun 1, 2005)

*Re: (darkVR6)*

We are operating this afternoon! wish me luck!! Thanks for the parts and info!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## wingnut80 (Oct 16, 2005)

*Re:*

I replaced my shifter rod bushings with the ones that Paul made, and since then the car has been idling a little rough. It seems to idle at around 650, and the bounces and sputters a bit, going from 650 to a little more than 600. Has anyone else encountered anything like this?


----------



## tyba (Dec 14, 2005)

*Re: Re: (wingnut80)*

Awesome thread... You've really put my mind at ease... and I have a project for one of my days off this upcoming spring break








THANK YOU


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## Black00vr63 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: Re: (tyba)*

She sounds so friggin smooth now. Has 65000 miles and was driving me crazy rattling. Only took like 15 mins. Had to use rubber mallet to get each bushing through but all is well. Great write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## I5south2chino (Mar 10, 2006)

*Re: Re: (Black00vr63)*

just found this thread


----------



## IJM (Jul 30, 2001)

*Re: Re: (I5south2chino)*

Is there any downside to not fixing a rattling shifter rod other than the annoying noise? Will I experience loss of power or damage to the plastic intake manifold?


----------



## QandnotU (Dec 11, 2004)

*Re: Re: (IJM)*

It won't cause any permanent damage, but you are losing some power if you do have a bad rod. Besides that, it just sounds awful. Get the replacement bushings from gruvenparts.com and you won't hear noise again. I'm going on 20k under heavy driving w/ those suckers. They're high quality. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jetstarvr6 (Oct 10, 2005)

*Re: Re: (IJM)*

well, in addition to wearing the rod, it will also wear the inside of the upper intake manifold. 
you can get the oem bushings here if you have a revised rod (with 2 larger bushings instead of 5 small bushings):
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2499582


----------



## Ricky Bobby (Sep 29, 2005)

*Re: Re: (jetstarvr6)*

Bought my new rod from 1stvwparts for 56 bucks, and bushings from Paul at Gruven Parts last week. Paul is a real stand up guy who definitely cares about his customer, even emailed me after my product shipped thanking me for my business and wishing me the best of luck. I installed everything tonight in about 15 minutes, and the VR is much happier now, not to mention quieter. Thanks Gary for this DIY, and anyone who has a higher mileage mk4 12v or just any mk4 12v in general, you should definitely do this! It's cheap and easy preventative maintenance. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vrsixt9 (May 31, 2005)

hey Gary, 
another great write up from the champ. when are you gettinga dang 24v







lol http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep up the great stuff i love your threads (diy).


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## ubervw1837 (Apr 5, 2006)

*Re: (vrsixt9)*

out of curiosity, how does shrick do the variable intake manifold? is that where http://www.gruvenparts.com got their bushings from? Cuz the shrick is dead reliable and the VW one is horrible... figures.


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## BIGNICKSGTIS420 (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (ubervw1837)*

just did this with pauls bushings easy as pie rattle is gone thanks for the diy http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif pulls smoothly now


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## einvwyzz (Apr 3, 2006)

*Re: (BIGNICKSGTIS420)*

I got the ones from http://www.gruvenparts.com. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Followed their DIY and now all is quiet!! FINALLY


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## porksoda (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: (einvwyzz)*

I had ordered pauls bushings... came in fast great service.. asked him questions and everything...
after i recieved the bushings i found my rod was old style so i ordered some and it took a couple of months to get in.. finally installed it this weekend. most of my rattle is gone but there is a bit of a tiny minute rattle still comming..
i think my intake has taken a bit of a beating and is kinda messed... i had to use a bit of pressure to pop the rod in but it was not SUPER hard....
either way the huge amount of rattle gone is a huge plus here and car is a bit different too.. whether thats just a placebo effect or reality im not too sure.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Just replaced my shifter-rod bushings withe the gruvenparts.com bits. After only 42,000 miles, my intke manifold was making quite a racket. The new bushings work as advertised and took all of 10 minutes!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## a2t2 (Mar 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (phatvw)*

Right on. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TheOrange (Jul 15, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (a2t2)*

just installed my gruvenparts bushings a few minutes ago! VW had replaced the whole intake runner about 12,000 miles ago, and the rattling came back, so i ordered these. they work great! i was a little scared about jamming the rod back in, but it went in fine with a little effort! well worth the $45


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## Alaska (Oct 31, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (ablauer)*

orderd both the new Rod and bushing's from http://www.gruvenparts.com/ can't wait to NOT hear the fluttering rattle!


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## The.Refused (Sep 4, 2005)

My rod is back to rattling again, even after installing the GruvenParts bushings. I'm so sick of it, I am going to remove the rod completely soon, as soon as I find something to seal the hole with.


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## thisismike (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

how would it run if i took all that crap out?


----------



## Alaska (Oct 31, 2005)

*Re: (The.Refused)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The.Refused* »_My rod is back to rattling again, even after installing the GruvenParts bushings. I'm so sick of it, I am going to remove the rod completely soon, as soon as I find something to seal the hole with.

how many miles are on your car?


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## The.Refused (Sep 4, 2005)

140 000 km's. So I think that's like 85 000 miles?


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## The.Refused (Sep 4, 2005)

I took the rod out again this morning and took off the GruvenPart bushings. I cleaned them all up, and before I put them back on, I cut a thin strip of electrical tape and wrapped it around the rod once, then put the bushings over top of it. This made the play in between the bushing and the rod go away, but the slick surface of the tape still allows the bushing to rotate. I put it all back together and just came back from a test drive. No more rattles, and a nice smooth transition when the valve changes over. So far so good!


----------



## Alaska (Oct 31, 2005)

*Re: (The.Refused)*

well damn I just hit 58,000 today and did the install plus the thicker bushings.
And WOW not more rattle. When I first bought the car I thought it was just the was the VR6 sounds. Now it sounds soild with no more rattle going on. Very Nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I did have to force the damn rod in fairly hard since the bushings were soo much larger though. Only took 2 min's though.


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## 6RVITG (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: (Alaska)*

I'm ALMOST having the same problem with this noise. From reading most of the posts, it seems like most people are having the problem at around 3k rpm. Well my car is making this noise right before 2k rpm, and as soon as it hits 2k, the noise goes away.
At first it started like a rattle, and then it slowly changed into what sounded a little bit like a BOV or a turbo spooling







Also, my car only does this while in motion and it does it every gear. If it is sitting still and you rev the motor, it makes no noise at all. Is this the same problem or does this have something to do with my drivetrain instead? Thanks guys! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## detenator (Jun 28, 2005)

Dumb question......
I'm having a rattle inside the engine and i always thought it was a valve, i guess it could be this piece.... anyway.. Is this piece found in newer engines only or do older (1995-1997) and OBD 1 engines also have this setup?


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## 6RVITG (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: (detenator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *detenator* »_Dumb question......
I'm having a rattle inside the engine and i always thought it was a valve, i guess it could be this piece.... anyway.. Is this piece found in newer engines only or do older (1995-1997) and OBD 1 engines also have this setup?

The MKIV's were the ones that had the "2 step" intake manifold. MKIII and lower, did not. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BIGNICKSGTIS420 (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (6RVITG)*


_Quote, originally posted by *6RVITG* »_I'm ALMOST having the same problem with this noise. From reading most of the posts, it seems like most people are having the problem at around 3k rpm. Well my car is making this noise right before 2k rpm, and as soon as it hits 2k, the noise goes away.
At first it started like a rattle, and then it slowly changed into what sounded a little bit like a BOV or a turbo spooling







Also, my car only does this while in motion and it does it every gear. If it is sitting still and you rev the motor, it makes no noise at all. Is this the same problem or does this have something to do with my drivetrain instead? Thanks guys! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








different problem http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif


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## Helicon Twist (Jul 10, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (ubergolf98turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubergolf98turbo* »_Get one what? You dont need a whole intake rod, just the mod'd bushings. 

My POS intake rod decided to break a slat about 2K miles after rebuilding it with these new bushings.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2898678
I'd rather give VW my middle finger than my wallet again. What happenes if just remove this troublesome part, and keep it out? (And drop-kick it off a cliff.)


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## stu_vortex (May 6, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Purchased a set of Paul's MkIV VR6 AFP shift rod bushings. Installed them in April and at the time, what a difference! Nice snug fit in the mani . Silence and better performance. However, recently the rattle came back worse than before. Checked the rod today all lose in the mani. Tried to extract the shifter rod to check the condition of the bushings but won't come out. Seems hung up on something inside the manifold. Afraid to yank too hard in case the bushings have come unsnapped and one of the halves drops into the manifold. Going to put it all back together and drive it as is for now. Anyone ever had the bushings spit apart inside the manifold?
Any suggestions?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (stu_vortex)*

One of the bushings might be caught up on one of the between runner dividers. If it were my car, I'd remove the manifold and check the bushings from below. You can see them pretty easily with the mani out.


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## stu_vortex (May 6, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Any DIYs for removing the manifold?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (stu_vortex)*

There is one by FaelinGL. It should be in the DIY/FAQ thread.


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## Black00vr63 (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Mine is rattling again after installing Pauls bushings. I have ~ 80000miles. should I pull the rod, reinstall same bushings and try again or buy new ones. It was fine for like 15,000


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## Lncrzy (Sep 15, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

VgRt6 do you know if the replacement of the intake is covered under the 100,000 miles/10 years powertrain warranty?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (Lncrzy)*

It should be. If the dealer says no, then call VWoA and complain.


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## TRiZZlE5790 (Oct 4, 2006)

It says in the DIY that i need the new version of the rod, how do i know if i have it or not?
"newer version of the rod, VW Part# 021 133 653"


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (TRiZZlE5790)*

Your car should already have the newer version.


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## sworksguy (Apr 25, 2002)

*Re: (The.Refused)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The.Refused* »_I took the rod out again this morning and took off the GruvenPart bushings. I cleaned them all up, and before I put them back on, I cut a thin strip of electrical tape and wrapped it around the rod once, then put the bushings over top of it. This made the play in between the bushing and the rod go away, but the slick surface of the tape still allows the bushing to rotate. I put it all back together and just came back from a test drive. No more rattles, and a nice smooth transition when the valve changes over. So far so good!

I did this step as well, and it seems to work great!
When I pulled the passenger end cap off, I could move the rod up and down what seemed about 3 or 4 mm...... not good.
Here's the few points that concerned me during the process:
1. I REALLLLY had a had time convincing myself that I had to install this using a few light taps with a rubber mallet. That made no mechanical sense..........








2. I barely could turn the rod once it was back in; if I can't, how's that wimpy little vacuum advance thingy going to do it?
3. It wouldn't come back out; now I was COMPLETELY convinced I had to pull off the upper mani.
I forged ahead, replaced all the o-rings and bushings using the rebuild kits from VW (the bushing in the passenger end cap was not in either of my rebuild kits, so I used the old one) and reassembled........ 
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!! The car is quiet, feels smoother, accelerates better, can't really tell if it's any better performance-wise, though.
Based on the points above, does anyone think that I messed it up, since I can't get the rod back out?
Thanks!


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## TRiZZlE5790 (Oct 4, 2006)

ok, i am preforming this DIY tomorrow installing pauls bushings, any last minute advice?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (TRiZZlE5790)*

Put a little bit of loc-tite or glue on the pegs that hold the bushings together. I think the problem that some people have reported with the rods getting stuck is because the bushings spread apart a little when the manifold is really worn. They catch when the rod is trying to be removed and gluing the pegs should keep this from happening.


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## sworksguy (Apr 25, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Put a little bit of loc-tite or glue on the pegs that hold the bushings together. I think the problem that some people have reported with the rods getting stuck is because the bushings spread apart a little when the manifold is really worn. They catch when the rod is trying to be removed and gluing the pegs should keep this from happening.

I wish I had thought of / read this a few days ago.....
Oh well, maybe I will sell the ride before I need to do this again!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (sworksguy)*

I'm going to add the glue step to the DIY.


----------



## porksoda (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

my rattle is fairly annoying to the level where i want to just buy a new intake or just remove the shifter rod... but i know i would suffer in performance if i removed the rod.... 
What do you guys suggest to do.. i have the new style rod with pauls bushings and it rattles like mad at 3k.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (porksoda)*

Removing the rod will likely cause a noticeable loss of performance AND you'll need to find a good way to seal up the hole in the driver's side of the manifold where the rod pokes through.
The best option would be to get a new manifold and use Paul's bushings from start. That would be expensive though. A new manifold costs US$400+ AFAIK.


----------



## porksoda (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Removing the rod will likely cause a noticeable loss of performance AND you'll need to find a good way to seal up the hole in the driver's side of the manifold where the rod pokes through.
The best option would be to get a new manifold and use Paul's bushings from start. That would be expensive though. A new manifold costs US$400+ AFAIK.









Funny thing as per my other thread related to oil... after filling up the oil the chatter is gone so i think it was for sure cam chatter and being low on oil... the rattle is 70% less it was cam chatter for sure at 3ish k.
I wonder if other users having oil related cam chatter or was i the only one.
p.s i will take the mani out in the summer and see what i find and maybe do the glue trick and tape trick n such
thanx


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## BIGNICKSGTIS420 (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: (porksoda)*

What glue and tape trick


----------



## shapiror (Dec 12, 2005)

*Re: (BIGNICKSGTIS420)*

any way of knowing if you have the old style shifter rod or new style shifter rod without taking everything apart? did it change at any certain manufacturing date?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (shapiror)*

I'm not sure of the change-over date, but your '01 should have the newer-style (653) rod.


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## DubWarz (Jan 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Bump to put in watched topics, I need to do this soon.


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## dingo_boy99 (Aug 3, 2006)

*Re: (shapiror)*


_Quote, originally posted by *shapiror* »_any way of knowing if you have the old style shifter rod or new style shifter rod without taking everything apart? did it change at any certain manufacturing date?

I did mine with the upgraded bushings, and I had the same exact question. Finally said hell with it and bought the RIGHT rod before I took everything apart, just in case. When I got it apart, my rod had the 2 white bushings, not the thin black ones (right rod, in other words), but it was so caked in crap I decided to say screw the $70 (or whatever it was) and used the new one. I still have my old one and the new white clip-together bushings (OEM, not upgraded ones). If you need to pick one up, let me know - I'll clean it up and sell it to you for way less than the stealership.
ETA: my jetta is an 01, so find out the production date (better yet the engine number and vehicle production date) and PM it to me and I'll check mine - if yours is later than mine, I can almost guarantee you have the right one. 

_Modified by dingo_boy99 at 1:50 AM 6-22-2007_


_Modified by dingo_boy99 at 1:52 AM 6-22-2007_


----------



## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I think I may have a problem, hopefully not, but when i went to look at my intake shifter rod to see which one i had, there was no shifter rod in the manifold. It was empty.s this bad. Should i buy a shifter rod and put it in there. I am also missing that white part that connects to the actuator rod. help. TIA


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_*REPLACING THE SHIFTER ROD ON A MKIV 12V VR6*
11. The picture below shows a better view of the vacuum drive unit (which also serves as the driver's side end cap) and how it operates the shifter rod. When a vacuum is applied to the drive unit (controlled by the ECU and a solenoid valve), the actuator rod (yellow arrow) moves downward, causing the end of the white connecting lever (red arrow) to also move downward and resulting in the clockwise rotation of the shifter rod 90° (there is a tab on the driver's side end of the shifter rod and a corresponding groove in the drive unit that limits the rotation of the shifter rod).










_Modified by VgRt6 at 11:31 PM 4-12-2007_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

What year car do you have?


----------



## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

i have a 01..i think when i had my motor rebuilt the shop maybe forgot to put the rod back in..


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

An '01 should definitely have a rod. If there is none in your car, is there a big hole in the side of the intake manifold where the rod usually pokes through? If there is, that's bad.


_Modified by VgRt6 at 10:44 AM 7-15-2007_


----------



## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

what do u mean a hole on the side of the manifold. the caps are there. like the ones u have to take off on the drivers side and the passenger side to get the rod out. sorry for being clueless.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

The passenger's side "cap" is solid, but the driver's side "cap" has a hole in it for the rod to poke through so that it can connect to the white lever of the drive unit. If there is no shifter rod in the manifold, then there will be an open hole in the "cap" and unmetered air will enter the engine (not good).


----------



## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

oh i see..how bad is it though..what should i do?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

You should put a rod in there. At the very least, you shouldn't have any open holes in the intake. It will cause a VERY lean condition which could cause poor gas mileage and possible engine damage if driven hard.


----------



## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

oh yeah..i am deff. gonna put a rod in there now..yeah my car has been running pretty lean and does get bad gas mileage..i think my car is misfiring now too..but i dont know if the shifter rod will cause that?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

It could. Put a rod in there ASAP.


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## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

i took some pics of what my manifold looks like..like the area where the shifter rod would go
















as you can see above. the white clip that is supposed to be here is missing and the hole is just covered by a nut. maybe that is the hole you are telling me about. 
















thats how the driver's side end of the cap looks like, where the nut is screwed in to cover up the hole you may have been talking about.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

I've done that bolt trick when testing out the performance of the engine without a shifter rod. You may still be getting an air leak with only that bolt there and definitely would have decreased performance without the rod.


----------



## .:R32DBP (May 21, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

oh yeah. then I guess I will go buy a shifter rod now. but my problem is I don't have the white clip that connects to the vacuum thing and the red bushing inside the cap? thanks for all the help


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## BIGNICKSGTIS420 (Apr 16, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*

Maybe your manifold is to worn(plastic)thats why there is no rod.Mine is. But mine is still in and it rattles like a sob







atleast make sure it is sealed tight.


----------



## porksoda (Jun 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (g0t rice)*


_Quote, originally posted by *g0t rice* »_i took some pics of what my manifold looks like..like the area where the shifter rod would go
as you can see above. the white clip that is supposed to be here is missing and the hole is just covered by a nut. maybe that is the hole you are telling me about. 
thats how the driver's side end of the cap looks like, where the nut is screwed in to cover up the hole you may have been talking about.


Looks like whoever had the car before you decided to "delete" the rod before sale so you wouldnt complain about rattle noise.
As i am in the process of selling my vr6 a gentlemen came and picked up on the noise and i showed him and explained to him the infamous shifter rod flaw... even though i have pauls bushings n such.
I would probably reseal it ... you can try putting a rod in but chances are it rattles like a mother.
I think if you seal up the holed properly you are good otherwise debris will go into engine.


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## BCookVR6 (Jul 29, 2007)

Sooo... I would think it would be safe to assume by my car being a 99.5, I would have the old style rod... crap. Where's a cheap place to pick up the new style with bushings online? Thanks.


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## crspechicn (Jul 16, 2007)

what would be the problem with running no bushings at all (just the red/green rubber bushings at either end)?
also... my 2000 GLS had the new, two-bushing rod (653), for reference. 


_Modified by crspechicn at 11:11 PM 9-18-2007_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (crspechicn)*

The rod would likely bounce around like crazy in there.


----------



## crspechicn (Jul 16, 2007)

i took my bushings out completely (they were so badly worn there was what looked like plastic shavings all over the rod) and put the rod back in, and there isn't much noticeable noise (its much better than before, obviously). do you think this would hurt anything in the long run? i'm on a grad student budget and $46 for new bushings is a lot of ramen.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (crspechicn)*

My guess is that more wear would occur, but your observations that the bushingless rod is quieter makes me question that.


----------



## Veedub_junky (Aug 13, 2005)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Maybe I missed it in the thread somewhere - was there a final answer to if the 24v and 12v use the same intake shifter rod? I disconnected mine to get better access to the coolant temp sensor, put it back together incorrectly (we set the white piece to 11 o'clock, not 1 o'clock) and of course it broke. I'd like to just replace the nylon part if I can find it, but I want to know if one from a 12v would work. 
I didn't know I had a problem until I got my dyno sheet this weekend, and yeah - it has a HUGE impact on performance. Once I fix it I'll post before and after dyno sheets to show what a difference it makes


----------



## McKLaSiK (Aug 6, 2003)

*Re: (Veedub_junky)*

Does this apply to 96 VR6 engines?


----------



## srego92 (May 5, 2006)

Got my new rod bushings the other day from vw. Strange-the kit consists of 4 green o-ring type bushings. I was like wtf??? Wy wife picked them up for me so I didn't get a chance to talk to the guy but they look like they should work. Factory fix maybe??


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (McKLaSiK)*


_Quote, originally posted by *McKLaSiK* »_
Does this apply to 96 VR6 engines?

Nope. Only MKIV cars.


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## FireFerum (Sep 4, 2002)

I sure hope they made a change to the design. It has been over 7 years with this problem. I am going to get my 5th shiftrod next week. I have used 3 VW rods and one with Paul's modified bushings. I did not get any more time out of Paul's in comparison to VW rods. I am hoping they have a better design now because I hate sinking money into this issue. It's almost like changing my oil. I have to put in new shiftrods faster than I put in new tires and brakes.


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## srego92 (May 5, 2006)

I hope to install the new rings this week end. Ill let you know how it goes.


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## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (BCookVR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *BCookVR6* »_Sooo... I would think it would be safe to assume by my car being a 99.5, I would have the old style rod... crap. Where's a cheap place to pick up the new style with bushings online? Thanks.

We sell the upgraded bushings at http://www.GruvenParts.com.
If you wait until the manifold wears out though, even our tougher bushings wont help matters.


----------



## GruvenParts.com (Jul 31, 2007)

bump for monday morning work crowd


----------



## Dimon VR6 (Nov 7, 2007)

*Re: (GruvenParts.com)*

I know this is old news to most but since I am a recent owner of a 2000 Jetta VR6 it has been invaluable.








Shortly after buying the car I took it to a local service and performance shop only to find out the coil pack was bad... After spending $1000 bucks to have them replace it and install new wires, I started to hear the rattle when the engine was cold or running up a hill. Since it only happened at certain RPM's I figured it might be sticky lifters or something. I knew it wasn't cheap gas, I was using premium.
THANK YOU VgRt6!!!
I decided to try this DIY to see if it solved the problem. I immediately purchased the gruvenparts bushings and pulled out the old rod.
I was bummed to find out I had the old type with the smaller ring bushings








Since it was Saturday, I had to put everything back together and drive 30 miles to the only open stealership that had the new type in stock. 110 bucks later I had a new rod to install the awesome gruvenparts bushings onto. Installing the rod was a breeze thanks to VgRt6's detailed pics and advice!!!!
Best part was... No more rattle or knocking sounds!!!
Throttle response seemed smoother too.
This forum rocks!! 
Especially thanks to guys like VgRt6 that provide such wonderful advice and informative DIY threads like these!!!!








VgRt6... if you ever visit SLC, Utah, I'm buyin!!!!





















http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Trevor


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## norcalmanvr6 (Apr 10, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (GruvenParts.com)*

I have read this DIY thread, and I found it very interesting. It seems like this is a very common problem with the 12V VR6. I have had this car since it had almost 30K (It was a leased vehicle before I purchased it). I have never replaced the shifter rod, so I believe it is the original one that came with the car. I don't "hot rod" my vehicles, and I always take care of them, doing a lot of the work myself. I thought that I would give it the test and rev the engine between 2.5K and 4K RPMs. I heard what might have been a little bit of rattling, but nothing even close to what is sounded like on the youtube video. I watched the rod move with the vacuum, and watched it close around 4K, so I know that it's working.
I'm thinking of replacing this part anyways, just so I know that it has been performed. Since mine doesn't seem to rattle that bad, would it be okay just to replace the rod with the OEM bushings, or should I go ahead and just forget buying a new rod, and just get the bushings that Paul made (I'm pretty sure I have the newer rod 653). The only thing that scares me is putting on Paul's bushings and having to use super glue to keep them from coming apart. Has anyone used the super glue, if so has anyone had a problem with them still coming apart? 
As always I have really valued all the helpful information everyone has in this forum. I have learned a lot.


_Modified by norcalmanvr6 at 11:23 AM 12-20-2007_


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## squig3273 (Jan 30, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (GruvenParts.com)*

Wish i would have known this about a year and half ago and the shop i went to charged me like 300 bucks to replace this...man I'm a moron







!


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## sebich1 (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

i have changed my shifter rod on my Jetta after 73 000 miles..it was really worn ...i had some noises around 3000 rpm!!!
my car is VR6 of february 2000 with an AFP engine but the shifter rod was the new model (021 133 653). Because mine was really worn i bought a new one at 1stvwparts.com and paul's bushings at gruvenparts.com.
i installed everything in 10 min and "magic" ..no more noise!!!!!!!! thanks to Gary !!!!!very good write up!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif















seb


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## Spindle (Oct 2, 2000)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Bump for a "Thanks for this thread!" http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Mine has been rattling for the last 30K mi (has 80K on it now).
I bought a set of Paul's bushings 2 years ago & finally put 'em in last night. They rock!. No more rattle & throttle response *seems* better, but that could just be me enjoying the result of my labor.








It took all of ~ 30 mins. 
Some notes:
- Getting the old rod out required some tugging. I was afraid I'd snap something, but it finally came out intact.
- Getting the newly rebushed rod in was even harder. The new bushings hung up on the lip of the manifold hole. I put a little graphite on the bushings and it went in with moderate force. It will snap into place when properly positioned.
- Once in place, tightening the actuator housing screws all the way caused the rod to bind. I ended up shaving about .5mm off the orange bushing. After that it rotated freely. (in pic below)










_Quote, originally posted by *norcalmanvr6* »_..... The only thing that scares me is putting on Paul's bushings and having to use super glue to keep them from coming apart. 

I didn't use super (or any) glue. The new bushings snap together tight enough for re-assembly. And, once in, they're not going anywhere. Hopefully I'll never be in there again so I wasn't worried about them separating slightly and preventing future rod removals!


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## SpaceGhost711 (Jul 23, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (Spindle)*

I just did mine last night. What a great DIY. No more rattle, which I thought was my valvetrain, between 2500-4000 and I too *THINK* I am getting better throttle resonse. 
At first, when I received my little Phenolic bearings I was like "I paid $50 bucks for this?!







But when you think about it, this proceedure, along with the improved bearings will keep you from having to 1. Buy a new rod that will just fail again or 2. wear the plastic manifold beyond repair.


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## jint (Apr 6, 2008)

can anyone post a site where to purchase pauls bushings?


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## FGuri32 (Dec 26, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

my car makes this weird ticking sound at idle. but not when i rev it up. Can it be the intake shifter rod?


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## laker10925 (Oct 10, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I have a 2001 VR6 12v GLX and it has 64,000 miles. I have read the post and ordered and replaced the shifter rod. The new rod went in pretty loose and did not have much resistance. I can still hear the rattle and was concerned that it still may be a timing chain. I went to a local VW service center and the mechanic said he was over 95% sure that it was not the chains but the Shifter rod being loose in the runners.
What are my options to getting rid of this rattle?
Can i get over sized bushing, or do i need to order a new intake.
What is the 100% sure fire way to see if its the Shifter rod? If i take it out completely, and put the end caps back on and start the car it should not make any noise, am i correct? if quiet i can rule out the chains.
My son is going to take the car off to college and i want o be 100% that its not a chain.
Please, any help will be appreciated.


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## veedubgolf00 (Dec 6, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (laker10925)*

i highly doubt that your intake is shot with 60k on it. my old vr had like 110k and i never replaced the rod. like you said take the rod out and plug the hole up and see what happens. if it makes noise then it might be your timing chains if it doesn't i guess you need a new intake manifold.


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## snboarder89 (Oct 1, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (a2t2)*

Its funny that this DIY surfaced right when I'm trying to figure this out. My vr6 has about 96000 miles on it, and at 3k rpm i start hearing a weird noise , its hard to describe kind of an air-sucking noise kind of thing not a distinct rattle, and no where near the rattle to that extent in the youtube vids. I haven't taken it off yet to see which rod I have. I guess it can't hurt to do this now.


_Modified by snboarder89 at 4:06 AM 10-12-2008_


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## laker10925 (Oct 10, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (veedubgolf00)*

I had Pauls Bushings overnighted to me. I removed and installed the new bushings, and this time it was a tight fit!
The Shifter Rod noise is gone. All you hear is the normal VR6 normal noises that make it so distinct.
Thanks Paul at gruvenparts.com for helping another VR6 owner.
I would recommend that all give him a call and buys these today.


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## laker10925 (Oct 10, 2008)

*Re: (jint)*

http://www.gruvenparts.com
or call 404-556-6663 Paul answered when i called.


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## Steehz (Aug 8, 2007)

rattle again.........


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## sebich1 (Dec 10, 2007)

*Re: (Steehz)*

me too!!!


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## andrewL30723 (Feb 27, 2007)

*Re: (sebich1)*

payed way too much to have my mechanic replace the rod at 87k and the noise came back (94k) so i decided to do it myself this time...i put in the gruven parts bushings and there is a noticeable difference so we will see how things hold up...


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## FRESH-VR6 (May 13, 2008)

*Re: (andrewL30723)*

replaced the bushings with pauls bushing the first time, Didn't do much, went to VW today and got a new shifter rod for $101 +tax? Anyways, put it in, the rattling is completely gone, feels like I have better throttle response, just my 02 cents. If aftermarket bushings don't work , try getting a new shifter rod. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## BlueMk3VR6 (Aug 7, 2001)

*Re: (FRESH-VR6)*

just wanted to see if anybody needs one, since I had a spare replacement when I had my Mk4 Jetta. You can double check, but it should also fit 12V VR6. I no longer need it, so it's for sale.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4085091


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## bOOst_BoY02 (Apr 4, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif just what i needed...thanks


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## JZRIRL (Jan 26, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (bOOst_BoY02)*

sup.
replaced bushing... 600 miles later rattle came back. replaced again 600 milkes later rattle came back.
took to mechanic he replaced "plastic" timing guide tensoners..
still have rattle.. does Shrik make a performance manifold for the 12v MK IV VR????
problem started at 115K currently @ 130K


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## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

*FV-QR*

*JZRIRL* the problem is that, if the shifter rod rattles long enough, the loose bushings will wear grooves into the plastic intake manifold. Once you have grooves, even the GruvenParts bushings will not help, because the grooves have worn into the manifold and there is no real easy way to correct the problem.
Your best bet is to find a low-mileage VR6 at the wrecker yard (aka without groves worn in) and swap the upper intake manifold. Put the GruvenParts bushings into the "new" manifold, and you should be golden for a long time.
http://gruvenparts.com/website...d=259 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Hot Tip: if you *very very* lightly round-off the leading edge of the GruvenPart bushings, it makes it easier to install the "tight" bushings into the manifold. Just a little bit of sandpaper to break the hard edge will do the trick. It takes you from "whack it will a mallet" to "tap it force-fully with a mallet" kinda deal. Look at the shape of the bushing, you will see the lobes that benefit from the relief treatment.


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## JohnJP27 (Jul 24, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (VR6ix)*

Hey Gary -- if you have a minute it would be great to hear your opinion on this shifter rod question.
If I have rattling that's clearly audible inside the cabin **at idle**, even with 3-year-old gruvenparts bushings, should I just replace the upper intake manifold? Or do you think I might be able to get by with a new set of gruvenparts bushings? Here are some details...
It was perfectly quiet on Wednesday, then just started making all this noise yesterday. I bought a new VW shifter rod today and installed it, but it seemed loose when I slid it in, and I don't hear any reduction in the rattling.
Car is a 2000 GTI VR6 with 119k miles. I installed the gruvenparts bushings a few years ago, when I first heard the rattle (didn't wait more than a week). Back then, I could barely hear the rattle in the cabin (not at all like it is now). The gruvenparts bushings worked great until yesterday. Seems really weird to me that it went from perfectly quiet to ridiculously loud in a day.
If you have a few minutes I'd like to hear what you think -- thanks!


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (JohnJP27)*

It has to do with the ambient temperature. The rattle gets much worse when it's cold out. It was much warmer on Wednesday. That's why you didn't hear it then, but did today.


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## JohnJP27 (Jul 24, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (VgRt6)*

Hadn't thought of the ambient temperature -- I guess that could be it. It didn't make a sound all winter, even when temps were down in the single digits, but who knows. It's definitely fitting too loosely now, for whatever reason.
I guess I'll try another set of gruvenparts bushings first, and if that doesn't fix it I'll pick up a used upper intake manifold. Thanks for your thoughts Gary.


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## VR6VR6 (Oct 11, 2008)

I know this is old.. but I just did this tonight and I have a question.
I'm super paranoid because my mechanical aptitude isn't fantastic. 
How would I know if my shifter rod wasn't rotating? I can't tell if the car has lost power or if its because the motor was just SO noisy.. and now I don't hear the engine building in RPMS as much so it just throws me off..
Would the loss in power be extremely significant? How can I check to see if its functioning correctly.
Sorry guys.. I'm a dumbass.


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## VRamateur (Mar 6, 2009)

*Re: (austinjennings)*

u can turn it by hand or press down on the vacuum (the black stick thing that turns it) if thats able to move u shud b golden if not the rod is either not sitting correctly or sumthn.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (austinjennings)*


_Quote, originally posted by *austinjennings* »_
How would I know if my shifter rod wasn't rotating? 

Remove the small engine cover piece with the VW logo on it. Have someone rev the engine while you watch the drive unit. It should rotate at approx. 1400 RPMs on the way up and back at approx. 800 RPMs on the way down.
If you look closely, you can actually see it rotate from the driver's seat if you get your head really high.


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## VR6VR6 (Oct 11, 2008)

*Re: (VRamateur)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRamateur* »_u can turn it by hand or press down on the vacuum (the black stick thing that turns it) if thats able to move u shud b golden if not the rod is either not sitting correctly or sumthn.

Should it be fairly hard to turn... snug? Or should it turn super easily? I can barely turn mine with my fingers... I was able to get it to turn with plyers. 

_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Remove the small engine cover piece with the VW logo on it. Have someone rev the engine while you watch the drive unit. It should rotate at approx. 1400 RPMs on the way up and back at approx. 800 RPMs on the way down.
If you look closely, you can actually see it rotate from the driver's seat if you get your head really high

I'll try this on my lunch break if I can get someone to go out with me. I doubt I can get my head high enough








Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.


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## VRamateur (Mar 6, 2009)

*Re: (austinjennings)*

if u cant turn it by hand, then it wont be able to turn, you probably put it in too far to one side, just take off the ends and tap it over until it can turn easily, its probably too far to the passenger side and pinching itself against the cover piece. give it a slight tap and try again.


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## VR6VR6 (Oct 11, 2008)

You're right. I had it in too far. It turns freely now. I had someone rev the motor while i watched it after I freed it up and it didn't move... but she only revved to 2500RPMs so maybe not high enough.


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## VR6VR6 (Oct 11, 2008)

*Re: (austinjennings)*

I am stumped. The rod spins freely by hand and I can push down on the (rod on the pump) and it will rotate... but it isn't functioning. I had someone watch while I revved to 4000rpms and back down and it didn't move. Nothing looks broken..
I need help. If I can't do something as simple as this correctly, I shouldn't touch my car without someone to help me. haha.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (austinjennings)*

Sounds like you have a vacuum issue or drive unit issue. Is there a vacuum hose attached to the drive unit? Is you suck on the fitting of the drive unit, does it operate?


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## VRamateur (Mar 6, 2009)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_ suck on the fitting of the drive unit, does it operate?























Haha
Freal tho when i did mine i accidentally popped the hose off somehow? But i got it back on and it works fine, dont give up on workn on ur dub just yet.


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## MK4=LIFE (Jun 22, 2008)

*Re: (ROCKnRLR)*

i just recieved a pair of the aftermarket bushings in the mail, pulled my shifter rod out, found out i had the older version (021 133 697A) what can i do????????????????????????


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (MK4=LIFE)*

You need to buy a new-style rod with part number 021 133 653.


----------



## VR6VR6 (Oct 11, 2008)

*Re: (MK4=LIFE)*

Buy the NEW style shifter rod from this guy!! $45 shipped = GOOD DEAL
I was supposed to but I backed out and now I feel guilty. haha
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4085091 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (austinjennings)*

THe shifter rods for the AFP (021 133 653) and BDF (022 133 653) have different part numbers. You would have to verify that they're identical. I don't know if they are.


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## DJP944 (Oct 21, 2005)

im confused because i did the afp gruven bushings and the sound went away for a while. then one day i was driving it came back and it was loud! 
i picked up another manifold to throw the bushings and newer shifter rod in, but for the last 2 weeks the noise just hasnt come back. 
yesterday when i went to install the new manifold i couldnt even get the shifter rod out because it was so snug! i figured i would leave it alone because the noise hasnt come back, but i cant seem to understand why it would sound awful one day and then two days later the noise is gone and hasnt returned!
i want to sell the manifold, but i dont want to sell it and have the noise come back


_Modified by DJP944 at 2:14 AM 4-6-2009_


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## vrisk (Jan 1, 2005)

*Re: (DJP944)*

when its warmer out i cant hear mine as much, so maybe it was warmer the 2nd day? otherwise i have just come to think the vr6 has a mond of its own.


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## DJP944 (Oct 21, 2005)

thats what i suspected because plastic will expand when warm, but yesterday in the morning it was about 34 degrees and the noise wasnt there. the day i heard it couldnt have been much colder. besides, we had drove the car for a good distance and you would think that with engine heat the manifold would become warmer anyway


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## SpaceGhost711 (Jul 23, 2007)

*Re: (DJP944)*

I did mine about 20K miles ago (10 months). Worked graet but stating to be noisey again. Anyone know of any intake manifold options for the mkiv?


_Modified by SpaceGhost711 at 3:01 PM 4-9-2009_


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## DJP944 (Oct 21, 2005)

the mk4 12v cams are specifically designed for this manifold. Ive heard of people fitting mk3 vr manifolds, but they throw the performance of the engine in the shiitter. if you did fit a mk3 manifold, id recommend changing the cams


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## theslamforevryone (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Thanks for this DIY, it really helped when I needed some quick answers. 
Anyone know of where to get the drive unit? I did some looking around but I am not sure if it has a special name or something, mostly this forum keeps coming up when I search google. [Or how to fix wear on the inside of the cap it has grouved slots for the tab to keep it from going further than 90's).
Thanks!


_Modified by theslamforevryone at 9:41 PM 6-6-2009_


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## GTI VR6 Blk on Blk (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I broke my white clip (described in note between steps 21 & 22) Where can I get a new one?


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## We.B.Dubbin (May 17, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (GTI VR6 Blk on Blk)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTI VR6 Blk on Blk* »_I broke my white clip (described in note between steps 21 & 22) Where can I get a new one?

From the Volkswagen dealer


----------



## HelperMan1980 (Sep 18, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Great Thread


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (GTI VR6 Blk on Blk)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GTI VR6 Blk on Blk* »_I broke my white clip (described in note between steps 21 & 22) Where can I get a new one?

Yes, you'll have to get one from a dealer. Unfortunately, as far as I know, it is not available separately and can only be purchased as part of the entire vacccum drive unit. That's not a cheap part.


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## SpaceGhost711 (Jul 23, 2007)

*Re: (DJP944)*

I already have the autotech "MK3" 262 cams in so I would kill 2 birds with one stone


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## devastate vw (Apr 18, 2006)

i have the bushings just ordered the rod
super excited to end this rattle http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dude-GTI (Dec 11, 2009)

So i have paul's bushings installed. I still have the rattle...
Then i read that some users have put electrical tape around the spindle where the bushings sit to decrease the gap there. Seeing this had to of been my problem,
i go to pull the rod back out and it gets stuck about half way. Its not easy to get it there but won't budge after that point. The bushings are probably caught on something. Any help on getting them back out without breaking my S**T?


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## chillywilly521 (Apr 17, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

THANK YOU SOOOO much for this DIY. It was great. I have an 2001 GLX with 97k and my rod has been rattling since 60k. I've been so used to the sound that when I finished the job and started/rev'd the motor it was like a new engine. I just love the purrr of the VR6 and now that purr is back. I was worried the rattle might be my timing chain guides, but no so. The new Paul's bushing fixed my problem.
A suggestion I took from the posts
- If your shifter rod is tight to get in then sand a little of the edge of the new Paul bushing to help ease it in. Mine took a little coexing with a hammer (very gently)
Thanks so much,
Will


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## dude-GTI (Dec 11, 2009)

i know its an old forum but any help? i really don't want to have to take the intake mani off. this rattle has been driving me mad!


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## crspechicn (Jul 16, 2007)

*Re: (dude-GTI)*

Well you're in luck 'cause you don't have to. Check out the first page of this DIY and read carefully! Just slide it out the side and replace.


----------



## GTI VR6 Blk on Blk (Mar 17, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I need a new clip (red arrow of picture below,) where can i get one?


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (GTI VR6 Blk on Blk)*

The white lever is not sold separately. It comes as part of the drive unit.


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## cpomplun (Aug 25, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the shifter rod on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

32. Install the bushing halves on the OEM rod and press the two halves TIGHTLY together (they may snap together, they may not - just make sure the two halves are touching). You also may want to put a little bit or LocTite or CrazyGlue on the pins so that the two halves can't separate inside the manifold. If they can separate(because the manifold is worn in the area of the bushings), even a little, then it may be difficult to remove the rod if you ever need to.
Umm, I did this, one snapped together, the other I had to force together. I didn't put any glue on it cause I was in a hurry







so I was going to remove the rod again today and glue the bushings, but I couldn't pull it out, part ways but it was like it was getting stuck on the bushing. (I did pull hard) Anyone know what I can do?


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## 509gti (May 20, 2010)

cpomplun said:


> 32. Install the bushing halves on the OEM rod and press the two halves TIGHTLY together (they may snap together, they may not - just make sure the two halves are touching). You also may want to put a little bit or LocTite or CrazyGlue on the pins so that the two halves can't separate inside the manifold. If they can separate(because the manifold is worn in the area of the bushings), even a little, then it may be difficult to remove the rod if you ever need to.
> Umm, I did this, one snapped together, the other I had to force together. I didn't put any glue on it cause I was in a hurry
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah man i'm in the same boat. Mine still sounds like engine knock at 1-2k rpm range. If i can just take off part of the mani fairly easily i would just rip it off there and take a closer look at the bushings. but haven't really had time. Its obviously a 2 stage mani. Can i take off part of the mani without actually unbolting it from the head? like i said, if i had time i'd really dig into it. any advice?


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## RedManVr6 (Aug 26, 2010)

VgRt6 said:


> I'm sure there is a VIN cutoff, but I don't know what it is. The ETKA says that the '99.5, '00 and '01 cars use the 697A rod, but I was under the impression that the changeover to the 653 rod was earlier than '02. I could be wrong though.
> The only real way to know is to take it out and look.
> Gary


I just pulled my rod from my 2000 vr6 and it only had 2 brushings, so im guessing that means it a 653. Also i the link for the brushings you have doesnt work for me, do you think there is another way i can get some brushings because my rod slid out with easy, didnt even have to wiggle it at all.


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## RedManVr6 (Aug 26, 2010)

GTI VR6 Blk on Blk said:


> I need a new clip (red arrow of picture below,) where can i get one?


You might want to look at a pull-apart, im not pro at any of this but that would be my guess. Probably way to late though.


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## andrew450r (Sep 1, 2010)

hey i broke that black tab connented on the shiftrod, is there anyway to fix it or do i have to buy a whole new rod?


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## gti vr6er (Oct 8, 2010)

Sorry got bringin s post back from the dead guys, but I really need shift rod bushings as this sound is driving me crazy but the link doesn't work. If someone has a proper way of getting them, if really appreciate it. 

Thanks.


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## gti vr6er (Oct 8, 2010)

Found it, nevermind.


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## NH-JK (Feb 24, 2011)

*Question!!!!*

Can anyone confirm if the 2001 has the old style or new style shifter rod.... I want to do this mod but want to do it all at once...


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## nicks02glx (Apr 11, 2010)

NH-JK said:


> Can anyone confirm if the 2001 has the old style or new style shifter rod.... I want to do this mod but want to do it all at once...


IMO Depending on how many miles you have i would just recommend just buying a new shifter rod and buying the puals bushings and that way you know you will be good to go.


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## nicks02glx (Apr 11, 2010)

My problem is about 13k miles ago i had the shifter rod replaced and a month ago it started to fail again so i bought the puals bushings and it sounded great for a few thousand miles and now its going out again. A friend had mentioned maybe my vacuum unit might be getting weak and allowing free play but not sure. All i know is this is getting old FAST!!!


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## VR6GTI00 (Aug 29, 2010)

Okay, no doubt I have this problem. My questions are..

1. I have 198k and I bought car 40k ago and been doing it the whole time, when does manifold get worn where bushings are futile?
2. I am an idiot and your dyno pics, technical readings and jargon is like Korean to me. In layman's terms, will my performance improve? 

If this is just a rattle, I can deal with it and replace the whole manifold eventually, I would love to just do the bushings but at 40k+ rattling if it has gone beyond point of bushings being an option, I will have to continue with rattle until I can afford manifold. Please help with these questions VW Jedi Nerds...which btw, thank God for you VW Jedi Nerds b/c I am an idiot who tells di%k jokes for a living...:laugh:


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## nicks02glx (Apr 11, 2010)

well it turns out now my chains are goin out and thats the current issue. it was hard to tell being just me because the rattle doesent happen till 2k so someone needed to hold the throttle but a fellow member checked it ouf and sure enough its time for some expensive fixes!


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## chillywilly521 (Apr 17, 2007)

*Well the noise is back*

The Paul's bushings worked great for ~ 10k then the rattle came back.  I suspect the intake Mani is shot and i have to replace that along with a new set of Paul's to make it all go away.

I might just live with the sound instead,,,,


Will


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## clarkent5477 (Feb 13, 2003)

*Sound back..*

That's what I've done. Had the exact same thing happen. Worked nice for like 5,000 miles, then it came back. Check into what a new mani costs.. about $625.. so i'm waiting. 



chillywilly521 said:


> The Paul's bushings worked great for ~ 10k then the rattle came back.  I suspect the intake Mani is shot and i have to replace that along with a new set of Paul's to make it all go away.
> 
> I might just live with the sound instead,,,,
> 
> ...


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## danvegaa (Jan 12, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## XvwX (May 5, 2004)

Uhhh... I'm a little scared here. 
01 VR w/166k on it, rattling for a month+ now.
Bought the new updated rod and Pauls bushings. Here's what scares me.

The bushings are .020" BIGGER in diameter than the hole in the intake manifold!

There is no way I'm "POUNDING" them in THAT far!

I'm gonna try factory bushings and see how they hold.

Oh and BTW my '01 had a newer style rod already in it.


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## XvwX (May 5, 2004)

Ok, well, I just put new OEM bushings in on a new shifter rod and the noise is GONE.COM!!!

HERE is a link to the Pauls bushings. I know I've read a few posts of people looking for the link.
http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=259&category_id=60


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## shazzam (Feb 15, 2010)

so thats what that stupid noise is, vw told me it was normal or that my c2 chip was making the motor make the noise:screwy:

i know what im gunna be doing this weekend! thanks for the great DIY!


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## 2001VR (Jul 14, 2011)

i am looking to get a new rod and i cant seem to find it on this website linked. how can i find it on here


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## 2001VR (Jul 14, 2011)

ok so my car is making the exact claking noise everyone is talking about from 2000-3500 rpm. also once in a while like a day a week or so it over revs going into 3rd gear. it will shift fine into 2nd then it will shoot over by 1000-2000rms into 3rd then all the other gears are fine too. it is an automatic i was wondering if the intake shifter rod may be the cause to this gear problem too or what that may be? please get back to me asap i ordered my new rod and pauls bushings


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## fuerte (Sep 29, 2010)

So if i have the older style rod can i change over to the newer style?


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## slagdemon (May 20, 2011)

fuerte said:


> So if i have the older style rod can i change over to the newer style?


Yes. The new rod style is a direct replacement for the old. I did the same thing at the end of June.


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## mwr02jetta (Dec 30, 2005)

Hello,
We have a 2002 Jetta GLX wagon 5-speed 12V/AFP VR6 with about 148,000 miles and the engine is making the type of noise described in this thread. I would like to say the info in this thread provided by VgRt6/Gary and others is excellent - Thank you!. Ive spend considerable time searching both Vortex and the internet in general to determine if the intake rod is the source of our engine noise. I know these VR6 engines also can have noise due to worn timing chains, failing oil pumps, etc. I was wondering if there is a definitve test that can be done prior to purchasing a replacement rod (VW) and/or aftermarket bushings (Gruvenparts). I was wondering if the end of the rod where it is connected to the actuation lever can be felt for looseness and/or play? Can the end of the rod be held while the engine is running to see if the noise is less?

Assuming the rod is the problem then Im on the fence between replacing the rod with a new OEM rod (~$85) or getting the aftermarket bushings for the existing rod (~$50). I see most folks say the noise comes back eventually (after 10-20K miles). What is the wisdom here?

Thanks
paul


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## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

mwr02jetta said:


> Hello,
> We have a 2002 Jetta GLX wagon 5-speed 12V/AFP VR6 with about 148,000 miles and the engine is making the type of noise described in this thread. I would like to say the info in this thread provided by VgRt6/Gary and others is excellent - Thank you!. Ive spend considerable time searching both Vortex and the internet in general to determine if the intake rod is the source of our engine noise. I know these VR6 engines also can have noise due to worn timing chains, failing oil pumps, etc. I was wondering if there is a definitve test that can be done prior to purchasing a replacement rod (VW) and/or aftermarket bushings (Gruvenparts). I was wondering if the end of the rod where it is connected to the actuation lever can be felt for looseness and/or play? Can the end of the rod be held while the engine is running to see if the noise is less?
> 
> Assuming the rod is the problem then Im on the fence between replacing the rod with a new OEM rod (~$85) or getting the aftermarket bushings for the existing rod (~$50). I see most folks say the noise comes back eventually (after 10-20K miles). What is the wisdom here?
> ...


You can always take out the shifter rod and plug the hole were it sticks out the attach to the vacuum actuator. Rev the engine and listen for the sound. You can also use a shadetree mechanic stethoscope and touch it to the parts you think are causing the noise with the engine idling and see if you can narrow it down. Just be careful or moving parts. It works great and can really help to narrow it down.

Here's more info on this shadetree mechanic stethoscope method

Oh and if you waited too long to change the rattling shifter rod the replacing parts and other bushings might not fix the issue. When it's rattling it's wearing away the internals of the intake and the only fix then is to replace the intake. Good luck


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## mwr02jetta (Dec 30, 2005)

We were just doing some looking at our car and we removed the drivers side engine cover piece so we could see the vacuum operated lever that is attached to the intake rod. We started the car and reved it in neutral (5-speed) and did not see any movement of the rod/linkage. When is that rod supposed to move?

Thanks


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## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

mwr02jetta said:


> We were just doing some looking at our car and we removed the drivers side engine cover piece so we could see the vacuum operated lever that is attached to the intake rod. We started the car and reved it in neutral (5-speed) and did not see any movement of the rod/linkage. When is that rod supposed to move?
> 
> Thanks


Yes. It could be the shifter rod is bound up in the intake and that's why it's not moving. Unclip the shifter rod from the actuator and see if you can move the shifter rod be itself.


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## mwr02jetta (Dec 30, 2005)

Sorry I was not clear. I can move the actuator rod up/down by hand which makes the rod rotate. Nothing is bound up. But it does not move when I start the engine and rev it in neutral (5-speed). Is the rod supposed to move if you just rev it in neutral?


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## mwr02jetta (Dec 30, 2005)

mwr02jetta said:


> Sorry I was not clear. I can move the actuator rod up/down by hand which makes the rod rotate. Nothing is bound up. But it does not move when I start the engine and rev it in neutral (5-speed). Is the rod supposed to move if you just rev it in neutral?


Anyone know?


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## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

mwr02jetta said:


> Is the rod supposed to move if you just rev it in neutral?


Yes it will move if you rev in neutral.
Check for a vacuum leak before you replace the actuator.


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## ULTRA-VW-ROD (Jan 15, 2012)

Are the bushings still being sold from paul still?Im only asking cause the thread is over 5 years old.


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## cmVR6 (Aug 18, 2011)

You can buy them here: http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=259

Good product. :beer:


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## ULTRA-VW-ROD (Jan 15, 2012)

Thanks. I know of those. I want the ones paul made so i could have ones made a little larger then normal and i would sand to fit. I have 180k on mine and thinks its worn out to much.


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## supertrick_05 (Dec 12, 2011)

Thank you for this thread! I just did mine and it was super easy and I bought the upgraded bushings and installed them...NO MORE NOISE! :thumbup:


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## sbell914 (Mar 8, 2012)

*Paul's bushings*

How do I find Paul. The link is no longer active to order the bushings.:banghead:


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## sbell914 (Mar 8, 2012)

Found it.


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

i always wondered what that sound was but it wasn't loud enough for me to be concerned but wow i cant imagine it not being there...definitely getting these


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## LV GTI (Dec 7, 2010)

All done! Thank you so much for the great write up! Helped me a bunch!


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

I was just talking to a guy that just took his out and it doesn't rattle is this ok to do? I don't want to kill my engine


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## gti vr6er (Oct 8, 2010)

cmVR6 said:


> You can buy them here: http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/cart/cart.php?target=product&product_id=259
> 
> Good product. :beer:


 Those took mine away for 3 months...that's it. Then it came back 5 times worse. Those are not the solution but more of a bandaid. Plus they're crazy overpriced for what they are. At least Paul has vortex pricing and will make different sizes for u depending on how much mileage is on the mani.


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## gti vr6er (Oct 8, 2010)

JayDD007 said:


> I was just talking to a guy that just took his out and it doesn't rattle is this ok to do? I don't want to kill my engine


 Kill your engine?? From disabling/deleting the shift rod? Nonsense. All that's going to happen us u may feel some loss of low end torque. But I've been told people swear their upper end torque is better since they removed it. Just make sure u plug everything up so that u don't have a massive vacuum leak. I'm going to try Paul's oversized ones as a last resort before I totally remove mine.


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

What would you recommend plugging it with?


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## gti vr6er (Oct 8, 2010)

JayDD007 said:


> What would you recommend plugging it with?


Some people have fabricated a thin metal or plastic to just screw over it(like the other side). I have a spare mani so I'm going to use the cap on the other side that already has holes for blocking it off. I'd keep an eye on the classifieds and either pick up a spare mani for cheap or just ask for that shift rod cover piece(passenger side) for a couple bucks if they're willing to just sell it seperately. Let us know how things go. If u do block it off or have any other questions just pm me. Gl


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

Ok thanks a lot and luckily I have a part car with a 12v too so I'll just see if I can find it on that


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## slagdemon (May 20, 2011)

I would suggest plugging the hole with a carrot or cucumber.


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## JayDD007 (Feb 27, 2012)

Well I did it and so far it sounds ok haha knock on wood what did you guys do with that piece that was attached to the end that looked like it went up and down to turn it?


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## croftsco (Jun 4, 2012)

if your shifter rod is bad, will you have less power and slower rpm gains. also it idles like ****.


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## EmGAr (Dec 12, 2012)

*Strange rattling sound, could it be related to the shiftrod??*

Hi all, 

I've been having some chronic issues with my 2000 Jetta VR6, the most difficult of which is that the car shuts off immediately after starting. To get around it I have to keep turning it on and give it some gas and if it stays on I rev it up a bit. It will stay on and then drive, but then loses acceleration all together so I have to restart it and do the same process. 

When it finally stops turning off and losing acceleration the car still struggles to rev at low RPMs, but after driving it around a bit it completely gets better. And even shutting it off and turning it back on isn't a problem, as long as I don't leave it off for a while. 

In poking around to try and figure out the issue, I noticed that the car makes this strange rattling sound when I just turn the key to get the power on--not even starting it fully. The bit of forum reading and YouTube searching I've done suggests the sound might be the intake manifold shiftrod problem. But the sound seems to come from the back of the engine and remember this is before the car is fully started. 

Here's a video of what happens: 






I'm sorry if this is in the completely wrong thread! Any information, ideas, advice, suggestions, are greatly appreciated! 

Thanks!!


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## chris_kraft3 (Oct 13, 2004)

OP,

Thanks for keeping this thread alive. I had almost forgot about this issue since it has been a long time since I have owned a 12v VR6. Put in the order today for the set Paul sells on Gruvenparts.com. I'll see on friday if they make the difference that I am expecting and leave feedback here.


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## vw-tim (Sep 14, 2010)

Anyone know where I can get a 2 bushing shiftrod I have the 5 bushing one right now.


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## janek527 (Jun 15, 2013)

vw-tim said:


> Anyone know where I can get a 2 bushing shiftrod I have the 5 bushing one right now.


this is for MK4 vr6 12v
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--VR6_12v/Search/SiteSearch/Shift_Rod/


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## ccalvw (Jan 31, 2014)

DIY is super helpful. Took me a bit under an hour. 
Should I be worried at why the old one looks like this?


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## mujjuman (Jul 29, 2004)

Gary, thank you sooo much for the immensely detailed and useful DIY!! It helped me a lot! The tips and the plenty of pics that well along with it were essential for a smooth operation. 

I replaced mine with the gruvenparts and now my car doesnt rattle. 
However, my actuator doesnt move.. maybe its supposed to move under load or something


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## modulis (Oct 23, 2003)

I'm going to do this rod replacement as I have the rattle and have had it for some time. It's annoying as hell. I've heard many saying they had a noticeable boost in engine power after replacing. Did you also get better fuel economy as well?


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## MKIVGLIVR6 (Feb 4, 2015)

Bringing it back from the dead!! Could this also work on a 24v???

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## djferreira093 (May 17, 2016)

Vgrt6 where can i get a set of pauls bushings? I have 184000 on my 12v Vr6. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Rebuilding an 01 gti i got for 300. These posts have been great to me.


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## Doomie77 (Feb 15, 2008)

*Shift rod stuck*

So I put the new bushings on. They seem a bit bigger than the stock so I had to really work it in there. It cleared the initial circular opening, then it passed the first set of intake channels and wouldn't go any further. Now I can't get it to go further in and I can't get it out either. I'm afraid the bushing halves may have loosened and are at risk of falling off the rod and going down into the manifold. I just cannot seem to get it to go. Any ideas? 

My friend ordered a newer manifold with less miles on it we can install if this doesn't fix the rattle. It even comes with the shift rod in it already. We CAN do that (dont wanna remove the manifold) but I'm no sure of any way to get the shift rod in further or out of this one


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

Lightly lubricate inside the manifold, WD-40 etc. That should aid in the removal. And yes they are generally a very snug fit.


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## Doomie77 (Feb 15, 2008)

V-dubbulyuh said:


> Lightly lubricate inside the manifold, WD-40 etc. That should aid in the removal. And yes they are generally a very snug fit.



I was pushing on it a bit more and it popped in!


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## red01vr6 (Jul 6, 2010)

I just installed these yesterday on my 24v just as preventative maintenance.
Just wanted to denote that in my 24v you cant pull the rod out all the way due to the coolant pipe by the battery being in the way, and not bendable. And to even loosen the clamp just to try and spin it made coolant drip out, which I didnt feel like dealing with.

I had to remove the bumper and just pull the headlight slightly out of the way. I removed the driver's side bushing then pushed it through to the other side with the now appropriate clearance from the headlight removed. Removed old bushing, cleaned up, installed new one, pushed it back through to the driver's side, installed that, then pushed it back in.

24v's rod the tab is at the 12:00 rather than the 1:00.
*Also in doing this, I removed the vacuum pump and the line to it wasnt even connected! Meaning my power port wasnt even functioning!! *I knew something felt sluggish but with no cel I had no idea what it was. Car rips with the vacuum reattached and I put a little wiretie just for peace of mind.


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## VladimirRushkov (Sep 17, 2016)

The issue with rattling between 2500 and 4000rpm definitely describes what's currently wrong with my AFP.
However, I was planning on buying a SRI next month. Obviously the shift rod isn't in a SRI, but what happens to the valve that controls it when installing the SRI? Just remove it and plug the vaccum lines?


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## Sacto-Ginster (Sep 1, 2005)

So my shifter rod is fine, no rattling because the plunger part broke off on my car...its the plastic one that can unclip from the end of the shifter rod...anyone know what's its called..hate to have to go out
to the junkyard when I can find it online...


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## red01vr6 (Jul 6, 2010)

Sacto-Ginster said:


> So my shifter rod is fine, no rattling because the plunger part broke off on my car...its the plastic one that can unclip from the end of the shifter rod...anyone know what's its called..hate to have to go out
> to the junkyard when I can find it online...


Here is the billet one:
http://www.gruvenparts.com/vw-audi-vr6-intake-manifold-drive-ball/
Or I have an extra one I can sell you cheap from my original manifold that blew up. It's still on the vacuum pump piece too if you need that as well.


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