# DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

I had some free time and all the necessary pics, so I put this little DIY together. Hope it's useful to someone.









*REPLACING THE MAIN WATER PUMP ON A MKIV 12v VR6*
The following outlines the procedure for replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 engine. It is common on high-mileage VR6 engines for the bearing in the pump to fail, resulting in a loud grinding/scratching noise when the engine is running and eventually, a significant coolant leak (the bearing acts as a seal in the pump). Contrary to what the Bentley Manual says, the engine must be raised slightly to replace the pump (it actually neglects to mention anything about having to raise the engine







). The steps below will describe how to prep the engine for raising, how to raise the engine and how to remove/replace the water pump. 
The procedure below was based on a '99.5 MKIV Jetta GLS 12v VR6 and should be valid for all MKIV 12v VR6 cars regardless of model and year. The steps for raising the engine to access the water pump will be slightly different on other 12v VR6 cars (MKIII, Corrado, custom swaps), however the steps for actually removing and replacing the water pump should be the same. The procedure may also differ slightly on the MKIV 24v VR6 engine, although the steps below should also be very helpful for replacing the main water pump on that engine.
Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly.
The procedure below is fairly involved and potentially dangerous and extreme care should be taken while performing it. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, it should take somewhere between 2 and 4 hours to perform. We had little idea about what to do when we started this procedure (other than researching the procedure for a MKIII 12v VR6) and it took us 4.5 hours to perform, including a lunch and beer break.








I purchased a replacement water pump (VW# 021-121-004-A) at Impex for $48.50 (recently raised to $56). The unit is manufactured by Hepu, has a metal impeller (significantly better than the plastic impeller which is used on some versions of the water pump) and comes with a new o-ring. There is also a Graf version available for roughly the same price. I'm not sure what material the impeller is made of on the Graf unit. Just in case my water pump pulley was damaged from running the engine with a water pump with a bad bearing, I purchased a new pulley (VW# 021-121-031-A) from Impex for $12. I reused the existing bolts when I performed the below procedure. If you want to purchase new bolts (not a bad idea since they sometimes strip when being removed), the VW part#s are N-905-442-01 for the pulley bolts (need 3) and N-902-218-03 for the pump mounting bolts (also need 3). They can be purchased at Impex for $0.62 and $0.95 each, respectively.
For those who want to replace engine/tranny mount bolts that are removed (some are stretch bolts), the part#s are as follows:
- passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolts - VW# N-905-969-02 (need 2)
- pendulum mount-to-tranny bolt, front - VW# N-102-466-03 (need 1)
- pendulum mount-to-tranny bolt, rear - VW# N-905-970-01 (need 1)
- driver's side mount-to-tranny bolts - VW# N-102-096-03 (need 2)
The tools/parts needed to perform the procedures are:
1) two jacks (can probably be done with one, but is easier with two - the procedure in this DIY assumes two jacks will be used)
2) two pieces of wood - I recommend a one foot long piece of 2x6 (only one piece of wood is needed if only one jack is used)
3) small flathead screwdriver (to help undo hose clips and harness connectors)
4) large flathead screwdriver or small pry bar
5) T25 and T30 Torx sockets or drivers
6) medium Phillips screwdriver
7) socket wrench with 10mm, 13mm, 16mm and 18mm sockets
8) 6mm hex socket or wrench
9) long socket extension - 6" or so is fine
10) M8x**x1.25 pitch bolt, where ** is the length in mm (available at Home Depot, Lowe's or other hardware stores). I have not specified a length since it varies depending on the model-year car you have.
Special thanks go to Eric (BCDS2003T), James (James 93SLC) and Shashi (DJ-SBK) for their help with the procedure.























Let me know if you have any questions.
_*As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes in the below procedure or those that you make while performing it.*_


_Modified by VgRt6 at 11:05 PM 4-2-2006_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Introduction & Prepping The Engine So That It Can Be Raised*

*INTRODUCTION* 
1. The main water pump is located on the passenger's side of the engine, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









2. The main water pump is driven by the serpentine belt and is located just below and to the rear of the serpentine belt tensioner pulley. The water pump pulley is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below. Unfortunately, the pump sits just to the driver's side of the frame support for the passenger's side engine mount (support is indicated by the red arrow in the picture below - Note: the picture below was taken with the engine already raised, so the access to the pump/pulley bolts is even less than shown). While the pump is approximately 4.15" in length, there is only approximately 1.5" of space between the pump pulley and the frame support. Therefore, in order to get the pump out of the block, the engine needs to be raised nearly 2" and pushed towards the driver's side of the engine bay, and the pump pulley needs to be removed. Raising the engine requires that the passenger's side engine mount and the tranny pendulum mount be disconnected and that the driver's side tranny mount be loosened. It also requires that some items attached to the engine and mounts be removed or temporarily moved out of the way. These steps will be covered in detail in the next sections.









*PREPPING THE ENGINE SO THAT IT CAN BE RAISED*
3. The replacement of the water pump can be done with the car on the ground or up on ramps or jack stands as you don't need much access to the bottom of the car. That being said, I recommend that you raise the front end of the car to do the procedure. This will allow you to check the engine and exhaust (especially oxygen sensors) as they're being raised to make sure that no binding occurs. Raising the car also provides extra clearance below the oilpan and tranny so that a nice big block of wood can be used between these items and a jack when raising up the engine.
4. Remove the long cover piece on the passenger's side of the engine. To do this, remove the two T30 Torx screws (indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below) and carefully pull upward on the cover piece.









5. The power steering reservoir (PSR - black tank with green cap in picture below) sits directly on top of the passenger's side engine mount and needs to be able to move up freely when the engine is raised. In addition, the coolant expansion tank (CET - white ball with blue cap in picture below) blocks access to the rear engine mount bolt and needs to be moved out of the way. First, unclip the coolant hose from the top of the PSR (yellow arrows in picture below) and then unclip the same coolant hose from the upper CET hose (green arrow in picture below). Next, disconnect the harness connector for the coolant level sensor on the CET (red arrow in picture below). Finally, unclip the sensor leads from the CET and coolant hose (white arrows in picture below). 









6. Disconnect the CET from the body by removing the two Phillips head screws indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.









7. In order to move the CET out of the way enough to gain access to the rear engine mount bolt, you may need to unclip (yellow arrow in picture below) the lower CET hose (red arrow in picture below) and move it out from between the two hoses on either side (green arrows in picture below).









8. Remove the 13mm bolt that connects the PSR support to the body, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









9. The yellow arrow in the picture below points to a metal coolant pipe (from the secondary radiator) that sits just below and to the front of the upper intake manifold. This pipe needs to be disconnected or it will hit the low pressure service valve of the A/C system (red arrow in picture below) when the engine is raised. The pipe is attached to the manifold by two 6mm hex bolts, one of which is indicated by the green arrow in the picture below. Remove this bolt. The other bolt used to secure this pipe will be removed in step 14.









10. Remove the small engine cover piece with the VW logo on it by removing the single T30 Torx screw (red arrow in the picture below) and unclipping the three spark plug wires from their respective channels (yellow arrows in picture below).









11. Remove the trim piece in front of the battery box by removing the two Phillips head screws indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below and sliding the piece upwards.









12. Disconnect the hood release bowden cable (yellow arrow in the picture below) from the trim piece just to the passenger's side of the one just removed.









13. Remove the trim piece by removing the two Phillips head screws indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below and sliding the piece toward the rear of the car and up and out.









14. The second 6mm hex bolt that secures the metal coolant pipe to the manifold is just to the driver's side of the first intake runner, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture. It's a very tight fit, but it's possible to get a short hex wrench (shown) in between the manifold and front end to remove the bolt. This step may require some hand contorting and a bit of time.









15. Move the metal coolant pipe (yellow arrow in picture below) towards the front of the car and down along side the hard, flexible hose (red arrow in picture below - part of the secondary air injection system?). This will prevent the hose, which will raise up with the engine, from pushing the coolant pipe against the A/C service valve discussed in step 9.









16. Remove the lower sound absorber panel from underneath the engine/tranny (red arrow in picture below) by removing the four T25 Torx screws that attach it to the car. There are two screws on each side of the panel. The two on the passenger's side of the panel are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.









17. When you finally remove the water pump from the engine (we're getting there, I promise







), some coolant will spill out of the block. If you want to prevent this, you can remove the upper oil cooler hose to drain the block. Unfortunately, the upper coolant hose is very difficult to reach, so I just let the coolant in the block (hard to guess how much, but I say around 2 quarts or so) spill out onto the ground. Since my coolant was original (had 145k miles on it), I decided to drain the existing coolant from the radiator and put all new coolant in when the pump replacement was done. (Note that there will still be coolant present in the heater core. You may want to consider flushing out the heater core if you're replacing your coolant, especially if you're switching formulations, e.g. G11 to G12.) It is not necessary to drain the coolant from the radiator when replacing the water pump. An option is to just let the little bit of coolant spill out of the block when removing the pump and then top off the coolant when the new pump is in. The choice is yours.
18. To drain the coolant from the radiator, turn the knob indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below (on the lower driver's side of the radiator) approximately 45° and pull out. The coolant will come out of the drain marked by the red arrow. Unfortunately, the drain sits directly above the driver's side splash guard (the one being moved aside in the picture) and as a result, the coolant will hit this piece when it comes out and make a mess. I recommend placing a tube on the end of the drain to direct the coolant into a bucket or other large container. 









19. The driver's side tranny mount sits directly below the intake air filter box. The air filter box, which is located at the rear driver's side of the engine bay, must be temporarily moved out of the way to gain access to the tranny mount.
20. Disconnect the harness connector from the MAF sensor, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below. On early model-year MKIV cars, you may need to remove the relay box cover (indicated by the white arrow in the picture below) to be able to do this. On later model-year MKIV cars, there is a depression in the cover which allows the connector to be removed without removing the cover.









21. Unscrew the two Phillips head screws that hold the cover of the air filter box to the main section of the box. The screws are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. You do not need to remove the screws completely, only unscrew them until they come out of the lower box (they can slide up 1/4"-1/2" easily when this point is reached).









22. The other side of the air filter box cover is held down by four tabs, indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. To remove the cover, you need to lift up on the rear slightly (red arrow in picture below) to release the tabs and then slide the cover towards the rear of the car (green arrow in picture below).









23. The picture below shows the air box with the cover removed and held up and to the side (be gentle - the intake hose is still connected), revealing the air filter element.









24. Disconnect the hard plastic hose for the secondary air injection system by pressing in on the two ribbed tabs (yellow arrows in picture below) and pulling the hose down and off. (FYI, the red arrows in the picture below indicate one of the tabs that hold the front of the air box cover in place.)









25. Lay the air box cover back on top of the air box (do not reconnect the cover) and then remove the rear 10mm bolt that attaches the air box to the car. The rear bolt is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









26. Remove the front 10mm bolt that attaches the air box to the car. The bolt is down between the air box and battery box - you'll need a long extension to get to it.









27. While holding the air box cover up and out of the way (a second pair of hands is helpful), slide the air box toward the passenger's side of the car and up and out of the car. The air box is secured on the driver's side by the intake snorkel (hole for snorkel can be seen in the picture below) and a rubber rod (yellow arrow in picture below). These make the air box difficult to remove.









*Note: With the air box apart, now is a good time to replace your air filter element if it's been neglected.* 

28. With the air box now out, you should be able to see the driver's side tranny mount. It is indicated by the red arrow in the picture below.










_Modified by VgRt6 at 7:53 PM 5-13-2004_


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Raising The Engine To Access The Water Pump and Replacing The Water Pump*

*RAISING THE ENGINE TO ACCESS THE WATER PUMP* 

*WARNING: THE FOLLOWING STEPS REQUIRE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE ENGINE/TRANNY MOUNTS FROM THE CAR. THERE IS ALWAYS THE POSSIBILITY THAT THE ENGINE/TRANNY MAY MOVE AND FALL WHILE IT IS DISCONNECTED. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL WHILE DOING THESE STEPS AND THEREAFTER UNTIL THE ENGINE/TRANNY IS RESECURED.*

29. Reach under the car and remove the two 16mm bolts that secure the tranny pendulum mount to the tranny. These bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. The engine may rotate slightly when the bolts are removed, so be ready for this when you remove the second bolt. Also remember to keep track of which bolt goes where - the shorter bolt is towards the front of the car and the longer bolt is towards the rear.









30. Remove the front 16mm passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolt indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









31. Remove the rear 16mm passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolt indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









*WARNING: MAKE SURE THAT YOU ONLY REMOVE THE BOLTS THAT CONNECT THE ENGINE MOUNT TO THE BODY!!! THESE BOLTS ONLY HOLD THE ENGINE MOUNT IN PLACE AND DO NOT SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE. DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS THAT CONNECT THE ENGINE MOUNT TO THE ENGINE ITSELF (LOCATED BETWEEN THE ENGINE MOUNT AND THE ENGINE)!!! THESE BOLTS SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE. IF YOU REMOVE THEM WITHOUT SUPPORTING THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE FROM ABOVE OR BELOW, THE ENGINE WILL DROP!!! IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE THESE BOLTS, PLACE A JACK AND PIECE OF WOOD UNDERNEATH THE OILPAN FIRST!!!*

32. Place a jack and piece of wood (for protection and to spread the load - a one foot long 2x6 is a good choice) under the passenger's side of the oilpan. Make sure the wood is against the flat part of the oil pan (yellow arrows in picture below) and not against the sloped part (red arrow in picture below). Also make sure to avoid placing the piece of wood up against the bump in the oilpan where the drain plug screws into (green arrow in picture below). If the engine is jacked up with the wood against this bump, it will concentrate the load of the engine on this spot and could possibly damage the oilpan.









33. IT'S FINALLY TIME TO JACK UP THE ENGINE!!! The picture below shows the height of the engine before lifting. Note that the engine cover (yellow arrow) is roughly even with the front end trim. 









*NOTE: THE DRIVER'S SIDE TRANNY MOUNT HAS NOT BEEN DISCONNECTED YET. THIS WILL BE PERFORMED AFTER LIFTING THE PASSENGER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE.*

34. Slowly jack up the passenger's side of the engine. If the car is on the ground or on ramps (suspension is still loaded), then both the car and engine will lift up initially as the engine is raised since the suspension is being unloaded. After the suspension is unloaded, the engine will rise by itself and the car body will remain at the same height. If the car is on stands, then the above will not occur - the engine will begin to rise immediately.
35. The engine can be jacked up approximately 1 3/4" before binding will occur. I don't recommend jacking the engine up anymore than this or you may possibly damage parts of the engine or exhaust system. Most notable are the oxygen sensors on the catalytic converter. If the engine is raised any further, the sensor leads will smash into the underside of the car and possibly be damaged. The additional clearance gained by raising the engine 1 3/4 " is just enough to get the water pump out - you shouldn't need to raise it any further. 

*WARNING: IF THE ENGINE OR EXHAUST BINDS BEFORE REACHING 1 3/4" OR SO (I.E., THE CAR STARTS LIFTING AGAIN AS THE ENGINE IS JACKED UP), THEN STOP IMMEDIATELY AND LOWER THE ENGINE BACK DOWN SLIGHTLY. BEFORE JACKING UP THE ENGINE AGAIN, DETERMINE WHAT IS PREVENTING THE ENGINE FROM BEING RAISED AND CORRECT THE PROBLEM.*

36. The pictures below show that the top of the engine and the passenger's side engine mount were raised approximately 1 3/4" before binding occurred.

















37. Even with the engine now jacked up, it is still necessary to slide the entire engine and tranny over towards the driver's side of the engine to get the water pump out of the block. Place a second jack and piece of wood underneath the tranny. Try to find a nice flat area where the block of wood can apply force the the tranny evenly. Such an area is indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.









38. Jack up on the tranny very slightly, just enough to support the weight once the tranny mount bolts are loosened, not enough to actually jack up the tranny.

*WARNING: DO NOT PERFORM THE NEXT STEP WITHOUT MAKING SURE THAT THE JACK/WOOD IS IN PLACE UNDERNEATH THE TRANNY. THE NEXT STEP INVOLVES LOOSENING THE BOLTS THAT SECURE THE TRANNY MOUNT TO THE TRANNY. IF THE JACK/WOOD IS NOT IN PLACE, THE TRANNY WILL DROP AND COULD POSSIBLY CAUSE THE ENGINE TO FALL.* 

39. Loosen the two 18mm tranny mount-to-tranny bolts (indicated by the red arrows in the picture below) approximately 1". You do not need to remove them completely. When you do this, the engine may shift slightly towards the driver's side of the car since the tranny mount-to-tranny bolts actually sit in slots in the tranny mount. This is a good thing as it gives more clearance for getting the water pump out. Make sure that tranny does not hang by the loosened bolts. If necessary, adjust the height of the jack under the tranny so that the weight of the tranny is supported by the jack.









40. Push the engine/tranny over towards the driver's side as far as it will go. It may be helpful to have someone lift and pull the tranny over from the driver's side of the car while someone else pushes the engine over from the passenger's side.

*REPLACING THE WATER PUMP*
41. With the engine raised and pushed over towards the driver's side, it should now be possible to remove the water pump from the block and install a new one. While it is possible to unbolt the pump from the block without first removing the belt pulley (there are holes in the pulley which provide access to the pump bolts behind it), there is still not enough clearance to remove the pump and pulley together. Therefore, you must first remove the pulley and then remove the pump. (On a MKIII, you can remove both together since the motor mount support is not in the way, but on MKIV the pulley and pump must be removed separately.)

*NOTE: PLEASE READ STEPS 42 THROUGH 44 BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE PULLEY BOLTS.* 

42. The picture below shows a socket wrench and 6mm hex socket being used to remove the pump pulley bolts (yellow arrows). You can also use a regular hex wrench, but the socket seems to work better. Be warned that the heads on the pulley bolts are extremely shallow and can strip easily. Make sure that you insert the hex socket/wrench into the bolt head completely and apply side pressure to help prevent stripping from occurring. It is also a good idea to spray the bolts with a penetrating lubricant prior to removal.









43. If you are using a socket wrench with a hex socket to remove the pump bolts, you will need to rotate the pulley until the bolt being removed clears the motor mount frame support, as show in the picture above. The other two bolts will be blocked by the frame support and the pulley will need to be rotated again (and again) to get the other bolts out. To rotate the pulley, the tension on the serpentine belt needs to be removed temporarily. To do this, follow steps 3 and 4 in the following DIY - SERPENTINE BELT DIY. If you are using a regular hex wrench to remove the pulley bolts, there may be enough clearance between the pump and motor mount frame support to remove the bolts without having to rotate the pulley.
44. While each pulley bolt is being removed, the pulley must be held in place and kept from spinning. There are two easy ways to accomplish this. The first is to use the force applied by the tightened serpentine belt to hold the pulley in place while the bolts are loosened. (Note: If belt tension is not sufficient to keep the pulley from spinning while removing the pulley bolts, use the next method.) The second is to loosen the belt on the pulley (refer to steps 3 and 4 in the serpentine belt DIY) and insert something into one of the pump bolt access holes (indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below), such as a small hex wrench, to pin the pulley against the block and keep it from spinning. Either works well.









45. Once the pulley has been removed from the pump, remove the serpentine belt tensioner in order to provide more clearance for removing the pump from the block. To do this, follow steps 3 through 5 in the serpentine belt DIY.
46. Remove the three 6 mm hex bolts that attach the water pump to the block. These bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. Again, be careful not to strip the bolts while removing them.









47. More than likely, the pump will not come out of the block easily once the bolts are removed. If it doesn't, use a large screwdriver or other similar object to carefully pry the pump from the block. Once dislodged, it should slide out easily. If you did not drain the coolant from the block, coolant will spill out as the pump is removed. If the pump will not slide out completely, you may need to twist it slightly to clear the motor mount frame support or you may need to push the engine over towards the driver's side some more.
48. Once the pump is out, you should see a big hole in the block, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.









49. Check to make sure that all of the fins on the existing pump impeller are still intact. If some have broken off, check inside the pump hole to see if they are in there. If not, that means they have traveled into the cooling system and are stuck somewhere. There is no easy way to retrieve the pieces except to disassemble and inspect parts of the cooling system, such as the thermostat and radiator. When I removed my pump, I discovered that one of the impeller fins had broken off. I didn't feel like spending the time and effort to find it so I just left it in the system. I'm not going to worry about it unless I have cooling system problems.
50. Prior to installing the new water pump, clean the pump mating surface around the hole in the block with a rag or paper towel to remove any junk.
51. Lubricate the new o-ring for the new pump with some coolant and install it in the groove on the pump. Next, install the new pump into the block, line up the bolt holes (they only line up one way), insert the bolts and tighten to 11 ft-lbs. We put some anti-seize on the bolt threads to make sure they'd come out easy next time (although hopefully there won't be a next time).
52. Install the belt pulley on the new pump, insert the bolts and tighten to 18 ft-lbs. We put some Loctite on the pulley bolts to help ensure that the pulley didn't come flying off the pump while spinning at thousands of RPMs.
53. Reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner, make sure the belt is on all of the pulleys correctly and reapply tension to the belt.
54. You should now have a new, fully-functional water pump. Now lower the engine, reattach the tranny and engine mounts and reinstall all of the parts that were moved or removed by following steps 3 through 40 in reverse.
55. The torque specs for the engine and tranny mount bolts are as follows:
- passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolts - 30 ft-lbs + 90° (stretch bolt)
- pendulum mount-to-tranny bolt, front - 30 ft-lbs + 90° (stretch bolt)
- pendulum mount-to-tranny bolt, rear - 30 ft-lbs
- driver's side mount-to-tranny bolts - 44 ft-lbs + 90° (stretch bolt)
56. That's it. Enjoy the fact that you just saved a ton of money by doing this yourself!


_Modified by VgRt6 at 9:12 AM 3-6-2007_


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## DrTacoElf (Jul 14, 2003)

holy cow thats a lot of info


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## Daemon42 (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: (DrTacoElf)*

Very nice writeup. Someone needs to add a link to this to the 12v VR6 FAQ
and you might consider submitting it the maintainer of the gti-vr6 library to 
compliment the existing Mk3 instructions.
But holy smokes, you MkIV guys have a lot of clutter in the engine bay. I knew there was more 
crap on the passenger side, but the sheer volume of *stuff* that needs to be
removed just to gain access to the water pump bolts is astounding. No wonder it
needed a whole new set of instructions. Looking forward to my R32, but not this.. oh well. 
By comparison I replaced the alternator yesterday on my Mk3 and to get to it, I needed only to
disconnect blower pipes, unbolt supercharger, remove return line, lift out of the way, remove
front motor mount bolt, raise engine (that's right.. nothing else moved, or removed).
The only real modification I make for the water pump, is to loosen the two rear motor
mounts so the engine can be raised further without binding. 
ian


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## PwrVdubGuy (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (Daemon42)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Daemon42* »_Very nice writeup. Someone needs to add a link to this to the 12v VR6 FAQ
and you might consider submitting it the maintainer of the gti-vr6 library to 
compliment the existing Mk3 instructions.
But holy smokes, you MkIV guys have a lot of clutter in the engine bay. I knew there was more 
crap on the passenger side, but the sheer volume of *stuff* that needs to be
removed just to gain access to the water pump bolts is astounding. No wonder it
needed a whole new set of instructions. Looking forward to my R32, but not this.. oh well. 
By comparison I replaced the alternator yesterday on my Mk3 and to get to it, I needed only to
disconnect blower pipes, unbolt supercharger, remove return line, lift out of the way, remove
front motor mount bolt, raise engine (that's right.. nothing else moved, or removed).
The only real modification I make for the water pump, is to loosen the two rear motor
mounts so the engine can be raised further without binding. 
ian

No Doubt... excellent job http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Daemon42)*

Thanks Ian. You're write-up in the gti-vr6 library was my starting point when doing this job.
It may seem like a lot, but it's really not that bad. If you know what to remove, you can get it all out of the way in 15 mins or so. It's really only a couple of bolts and unclipping a few hoses. Removing the air box on the driver's side is a little more work, but still goes pretty quick. 
There may be less stuff to move out of the way on the MKIII, but accessing the MKIV motor mount bolts is a lot easier on the MKIV - no need for hand contortions or special tools.
Enjoy the new R32 when it arrives.







I'm jealous.










_Modified by VgRt6 at 2:11 PM 12-16-2003_


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## James 93SLC (Sep 27, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

I think you missed a step Gary








Where is the lunch break run to Quiznos?
And don't forget the


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## corpsedub (Aug 3, 2001)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

once again an excellent write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (James 93SLC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *James 93SLC* »_I think you missed a step Gary








Where is the lunch break run to Quiznos?
And don't forget the









Crap. Now I have to start over!








Just kidding. I'm saving that step for the 432 page timing chain and tensioner DIY.








Edit: I forgot that I actually did mention lunch and beer in the DIY. It's at the end of paragraph 4 at the top and not an actual "step".










_Modified by VgRt6 at 4:20 PM 12-16-2003_


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## sicrado (Apr 30, 2002)

props


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## BCDS2003T (Sep 18, 2001)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Yeah Gary-You should also mention that it goes much quicker when the peanut gallery actually helps instead of whining about how cold it is.


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## Daemon42 (Feb 9, 2001)

*Re: (BCDS2003T)*

Tell ya what. A couple 500 watt halogen work lamps make 
pretty decent space heaters. As I said above, I did my
alternator last night. When I started it was 32 degrees and windy. 
When I finished, it was dark, and somewhat colder than that. 
The light kept me reasonably warm, although handling
some of the metal blower parts was less than fun. I've only
got about 4 or 5 gashes in the back of my hands.








ian


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Daemon42)*

Haha. I'll be doing my timing chains in the next month or two and promised James and the peanut gallery that I'd get a space heater so I didn't have to listen to them whine. I'm Norwegian so the cold doesn't bother me a bit. It was 28-30 degrees when we did the water pump, but luckily we were in a garage with the doors closed. It was relatively balmy in there ... probably upper 30's.


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## C2Motorsports (Nov 25, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Nice write-up, but next time would you mind going into a little more depth and detail


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (C2Motorsports)*


_Quote, originally posted by *C2Motorsports* »_Nice write-up, but next time would you mind going into a little more depth and detail









I'll keep that in mind for next time.


----------



## T99inFL (Aug 4, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

VgRT6:
Very nice write up, dude!


----------



## dancdas (May 28, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (T99inFL)*






























very nice..
wow that looks like a lot harder then the mkIII vr's. i'm planning to do mine within the next couple months and it doesnt look like you need to disconnect so many things to lift the motor.


----------



## tdigti (Jun 21, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (dancdas)*

it's stuff like this that make me think I should have bought a 1.8T. very informative write-up. This is what keeps people coming to the Tex. Good job dude.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (tdigti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tdigti* »_it's stuff like this that make me think I should have bought a 1.8T. very informative write-up. This is what keeps people coming to the Tex. Good job dude.









Thanks.








You do realize that the DIY is for a VR6 though, don't you?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Pics are back online ... this time for good.








Gary


----------



## DrivenDriversEdition (Nov 25, 2003)

I don't need the Water pump DIY. I NEED the DIY you posted on the Timing Chain.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (DrivenDriversEdition)*

The link to the timing chain DIY is in the link in my signature.
Gary


----------



## A2T (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

Excellent. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Somebody buy this dude a beer when he's in your town.
And for once, it looks like the job on the corrado vr6 is much easier - just support engine, undo mounts, raise engine, and remove/replace pump. 
Paul
92 SLC - replaced water pump


----------



## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

*Re: (A2T)*

Just did this yesterday. What a crazy job. But the DIY post was an incredible time saver and help. Thanks again Gary.


----------



## olaf (Jun 8, 1999)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

This was an excellent write-up. It saved me a lot of time and money. This operation requires some time and care, but you will succeed if you are a decent back-yard mechanic and you have the right tools. Well done. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
A couple of comments:
I was able to do this with only one floor jack and 2 jack stands to raise the front end of the car and provide more clearance. I could raise my engine almost 3 inches with no clearance problems. Perhaps the GTI's are slightly different? My main water pump had a metal impeller, however it began to leak sometime last year and began progressively squeaking more and more. I had to carefully use a flat head screwdriver and hammer to free the pump from the block. It was stuck on there pretty good. You have to be careful not to damage the sealing surface on the engine block.
While I was at it, I replaced my belt and re-greased the bearing in my pulley tensioner (you can pop out the rubber seals and fill the bearing with wheel bearing grease). 
Similarly, my 99.5 GTI GLX had a mk3 Bosch auxiliary pump (i replaced that one too, and yes, the motor was burnt out. Luckily that was a 10 minute swap.
I drained everything except the heater circuit and I had to add almost exactly 1 gallon of coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water. Obviously there was still some old coolant in the system. I refilled my coolant through the reservoir as much as I could and then I turned on the engine and topped it off as the coolant was sucked into the system. After a test drive and cool-down period I re-checked the coolant level and topped it off.
Thanks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


_Modified by olaf at 6:24 PM 7-2-2005_


----------



## f0xf0702k1 (Mar 30, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (olaf)*

all i can say is im glad i have a mk3








much easier. good writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (f0xf0702k1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *f0xf0702k1* »_all i can say is im glad i have a mk3








much easier. good writeup http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

i just did mine today. thanks


----------



## JamesGti1.8T (Feb 3, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

thanks gary, your diy are always great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## smoothbomber23 (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

How do i know if it is my water pump that is making that noise? Its like a chirping when the car is running...........?When i turn my AC on it either seems to get louder or a whole new chirp starts thats louder than the other..... ANY suggestions on what is wrong


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (smoothbomber23)*

It most likely the serpentine belt tensioner pulley. See the DIY for fixing that in the link in my signature (it's common for it to dry out and need a re-lubing). If that doesn't help, then I would use a mechanic's stethoscope to try and pinpoint the source of the noise.
Gary


----------



## smoothbomber23 (Sep 18, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Alright cool... Ill give that a try and see what happens..... By the way... I called my local v dub dealer and asked them what they charged for replacing a broken water pump.........They said for the part alone (no new pulley) is $180...........................LABOR ALONE IS $550!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! now thats insane


----------



## ogvr6 (Nov 4, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (smoothbomber23)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif many thanks for all the info and dIy's on the vortex.when mine went,a friend who is very mechanically inclined,after sharing this info,jack up car lower engine,went thru passenger wheel well,start to finished about 1.5 hrs,but he couldn't have done it without the great info that I got from the vr6 forum.thank you very much again.


----------



## v-dub6 (Apr 21, 2004)

I recently bought the Graf water pump from Impex. It also has a metal impeller same part number (vw # 021-121-004-A).


----------



## antera-309 (Aug 31, 2004)

*Re: (v-dub6)*

VgRt6, you're an absolute star! I'm having to do a water pump replacement on my Mk3 VR6 soon and your guide will come in very handy!!!


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (antera-309)*

Don't follow my DIY for your MKIII. It's a lot easier on the MKIII and I think there is another DIY on here. IM Daemon42 and ask him if he knows where it is.
Gary


----------



## jet-x (Aug 29, 2005)

*Re: (antera-309)*

great right up helped me out allot.


----------



## darisd (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Great writeup, but







just stripped the three pulley bolts trying to get them out














time to get a beer, i can't grind the heads off tonight, too much noise.


----------



## speedy3k (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (darisd)*

is there any other way to replace the water pump without having to raise or move the engine?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (darisd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *darisd* »_Great writeup, but







just stripped the three pulley bolts trying to get them out














time to get a beer, i can't grind the heads off tonight, too much noise.



















































Worst bolts ever made! No question!















FYI, I partially stripped one of mine. ViseGrips worked like a charm!
Gary


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (speedy3k)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speedy3k* »_is there any other way to replace the water pump without having to raise or move the engine? 

Nope, other than sawing part of the frame off the car off to get to the water pump area.
Gary


----------



## speedy3k (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I called the dealership and they want 500 to replace the pump. I would rather buy the tools i need and do it myself . I used to be a helicopter mechanic, so i might be able to figure this out







I just wish there was an easier way. I'm sure if there was an easier way, you would have mentioned it! 
Great write up, and I'll be using it this spring!!! 
Also i would like to say thanks on all your great write ups. The info you posted here has helped me a ton!! Thank you!


----------



## darisd (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Worst bolts ever made! No question!















FYI, I partially stripped one of mine. ViseGrips worked like a charm!


Well, I stripped all three. So I soaked them in penetrating lubricant... overnight... and tried my channelocks (as good as vise grips IMHO). One of the three came loose with a big pop (overtightened or siezed.... grrr). So now I am grinding/drilling the others off. 
Slightly concerned that the bolts holding the pump to the block will strip as well. If they do, I can't grind the heads off, and from the looks of it, they are even harder to get at. 
That would be a "call AAA and get a tow to a real shop" moment if it comes.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (darisd)*

The bolts that attach the pump to the block came out pretty easily IIRC.
Gary


----------



## darisd (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Ok, so for the third night it sat with penetrating lubricant... i came at those fracking bolts like al pacino in scarface, all guns blazing. I hit it hard with the drill. Oh yeah, metal flew. It was so satisfying...








It did not have a chance.








The other bolts came off really easy... *with a bolt extractor*. Yeah, _F those bolts._


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (darisd)*

Damn!


----------



## SAWeeks04 (May 9, 2004)

Great write up man.... It only took me 4 and a half hours, but overall it wasn't too bad. The replacing the water pump part was cake, its the rest of the bs you have to do thats time consuming. I only stripped one of the pulley bolts. once I tapped the allen head in it real good with a hammer it came right out. Dont even ask how I got a hammer in that tiny amount of space


----------



## {sic}GTI (Jan 6, 2003)

*replacing radiator, can I do the water pump too without hassle?*

If someone were to be in the neighborhood of replacing their radiator, and having the whole front end of their car off, would this procedure be easier? It seems like if the front end was off you could get a better shot at it from the front, but I don't know. I may be replacing my radiator tomorrow, and I am figuring if I am already mucking with the cooling system, I might as well replace the water pump, because it will probably be failing soon anyways.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: replacing radiator, can I do the water pump too without hassle? ({sic}GTI)*

It would only help a little. The problem is that the engine is on the passenger's side and is blocked by the passenger's side frame. Removing the front end doesn't really give you better access to the area. You'll still need to jack the engine up and push it over toward's the driver's side.


----------



## {sic}GTI (Jan 6, 2003)

*Re: replacing radiator, can I do the water pump too without hassle? (VgRt6)*

wow that's pretty crazy, but at least I know. I will see what the person who is going to be helping me says. I think he and I will will both feel uncomfortable doing that. The person helping me is really good with old cars (chevy's, fords, etc.) but not too keen on newer cars, especially euro like mine.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: replacing radiator, can I do the water pump too without hassle? ({sic}GTI)*

It's not a difficult job for someone who is familar with working on cars. The only real problem is that the engine bay is packed so tightly that you need to remove a bunch of stuff and shift other stuff around to get at the stuff that's bad.


----------



## ridefuel (Aug 9, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (speedy3k)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speedy3k* »_I called the dealership and they want 500 to replace the pump. I would rather buy the tools i need and do it myself . I used to be a helicopter mechanic, so i might be able to figure this out








I just wish there was an easier way. I'm sure if there was an easier way, you would have mentioned it! 
Great write up, and I'll be using it this spring!!! 
Also i would like to say thanks on all your great write ups. The info you posted here has helped me a ton!! Thank you!

dealer over charges cause if the pump is siezed in the block you have to do this:








the aftermath:


----------



## {sic}GTI (Jan 6, 2003)

*Re: replacing radiator, can I do the water pump too without hassle? (VgRt6)*

Any possible way this job is easier on a 24v?


----------



## lil8v (Jun 28, 2002)

*Re: (antera-309)*

your doing so much stuff you dont have to man...take half those steps out it takes less then an hr to do them pump i work at the dealer i kno


----------



## Raktim81 (Aug 5, 2003)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

so my car overheated yesterday. 
started a post here about it http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3318158
it seems like it's only overheating when stuck in traffic (no airflow). Does that indicate broken radiator fan or broken coolant pump? When driving temp gauge stays in the middle. Didnt notice any liquid under car, so i dont think its a leaky hose. Also coolant level is stable.
no grinding or scratching noise otherwise. 
car has 130k miles on it


----------



## smrf010 (May 17, 2006)

*Re: (Raktim81)*

How much would this repair cost at a dealership?


----------



## rj1st (Dec 17, 2004)

*Re: (smrf010)*

Mine is at the dealership right now... for a new water pump and a serpentine belt: Manager said he would do it for $495 and I said "no way" and he dropped the price 10% to $445, just a little easier to swallow. Hopefully they do a good job. I hate going to the dealership.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (rj1st)*

After doing this job, $45o isn't that bad of a price.


----------



## EpicVW (Feb 10, 2000)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_After doing this job, $45o isn't that bad of a price.

Thanks for the directions on this. I just got all the parts in to do it and i'm probably going to tomorrow. What's the approx time to do the job start to finish?


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (passatrcr)*

Most of an afternoon.


----------



## algadoo (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re:*

Very nice write up! My 2000 Jetta vr6 with 114,000 miles has developed a small leak on passenger side and I'm assuming it's the water pump!

I have a question on Bentley Manual, it says you can lower the engine as well to remove water pump? Is that correct? I'm thinking it might be little easier to lower the engine since I might have more clearance lowering?
thanks


----------



## jujubeeboy (Mar 3, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I want to give VgRt6 mad mad MAD props for writing this excellent DIY. My coolant was leaking like a CIA staffer at a press convention. I followed the instructions by the letter and VOILA...no more leaks!! It only took me a few hours to do the whole thing and I saved a hard earned duckets as a result.
You rock, bro! Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (jujubeeboy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jujubeeboy* »_My coolant was leaking like a CIA staffer at a press convention.








http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## csneav00 (Oct 4, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Great, DIY. First major mechanical thing done to my car. Took brother in law and myself about 6 hours.
Was able to jack up engine 3 inches without binding. 01 GLX VR6 Jetta.
You saved me tons of money. 
Thanks.


----------



## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (csneav00)*

yea, dont you love the 5mm allen bolts. What a joke. I always replace them w/ 10mm bolts when I do a w-pump. 
Also you do not need to unbolt the tranny mount, only remove the dogbone mount and you can jack the engine up about 6-7" w/o anything binding. Its how I do them.


----------



## simplyfurther (Jun 5, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Thank you so much for posting this. It going to be a great help!!!
Erika


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (simplyfurther)*

You should search for water pump posts by izzo. He has a DIY for an early Passat, which may be more applicable to your Corrado than my MKIV procedure.


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## dirtymanpon (Jul 22, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Does anyone know how many hours this generally takes?


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (dirtymanpon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dirtymanpon* »_Does anyone know how many hours this generally takes? 

anywhere from 45 minutes to 4.50 hours.. 
depending on experience, tools, parts...


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## specialforces27 (May 5, 2008)

*baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in*

OK so I have a 2000 MKIV VR6 and I followd your procedures to replace my water pump ( FANTASTIC directions by the way!) and I got the pump out with a little trouble, and now I can't get the new one back in! How much should the engine slide over?? because I couldn't get mine slide over hardly at all, but maybe that's cuz I was being a puss about it cuz I was afraid of knocking the engine off of the jack. 
What is wierd is I was able to jack the engine up about 5 inches and I didn't notice anything binding. As I jacked the engine up, the frame didn't move up at all....the engine just kept going up. I hope I wasn't smashing in the exhaust or something! Anway, is there an easier way of pushing the engine over, or do I just need to be more agressive with it?


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (specialforces27)*

i undo the pendulm mount from the trans


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## specialforces27 (May 5, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (Vortexpert)*

I did, but I still can't push the b*tch over......someone up there ^^^said you can jack the engine up like 6 or 7 inches?? is this true?? It just BARELY won't go back in!!! grrr I'm frustrated...


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (specialforces27)*

i jack that bitch up till i hear cracking, the it goes up a few more hairs. you may need to snake dance that bitch in. drop-in, drop-in method


----------



## specialforces27 (May 5, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (Vortexpert)*

How high would you say the engine goes?? yeah i snake danced the thing out of there....It just barely came out....I went home for the night but maybe in the morning I'll jack it up a couple more inches and see if that does the trick...Also is it really necessary to unbolt the tranny mount or does that just make it easier to slide everything over?


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (specialforces27)*

i got straight up, i dont un boolt the trans. i do half the work gary did in his writeup. i undo the pendlum mount and driver aside mount. i jact it as far up as i can go before things break


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## specialforces27 (May 5, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (Vortexpert)*

right on, tomorrow i'll just crank that bitch up til I can stuff the pump back in......if I f#ck something up i'll just have a longer weekend fixing something else....


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (specialforces27)*

just watch the a/c lines in the front and keep in mind some hoses on the back of the manifold


----------



## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (Vortexpert)*

then lift that pig straight up


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## specialforces27 (May 5, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (Vortexpert)*

cool thanks man! Do you just jack the whole thing from the oil pan? If I undid all the hoses that vgtr6 recommends will I be good to go as far as lines not getting in the way?


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## Vortexpert (Apr 17, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (specialforces27)*

up a block under the pan and jack up
the a/c line is behind the pass headlight, it will catch the core suport if not watched going up


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## specialforces27 (May 5, 2008)

*Re: baaaaah.......can't get water pump back in (Vortexpert)*

SWEEEET worked like a charm! brand new pump woot! Too bad my car is still leaking coolant like a motherf*cker.........


----------



## 161324 (Jul 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

I know Gary has a Jetta, having a GTI, I was able to remove the lower engine mount and the PS side upper mount and just lower the engine enough to get the water pump out.
I unbolted the pulley and pump from under the car. With the plastic covers removed, it was a joke.
Not really a bad job.
I also removed the belt tensioner. That is when I thought I would take it out from the top.


----------



## Steehz (Aug 8, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

great DIY.... lost without it.... although damn did i ever have to jack the engine up, way more than 2 inches.... i was nervous, but it worked, mad props!!! Along w/ a couple other task, took about 5 hours.... waterpump way easier to take out then put back in, cause when you smash the blades off when you take the old one out, it really frees up some space!! Save the beers till the new pump is in, believe me!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif




































Additional tool - Pry Bar


----------



## darisd (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (silentdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *silentdub* »_I know Gary has a Jetta, having a GTI, I was able to remove the lower engine mount and the PS side upper mount and just lower the engine enough to get the water pump out.


I think Gary said something about not wanting to run the risk of the motor falling off the jack, so that is why he left the mounts on the motor and jacked it upwards. 
But yeah, I saw that option as well. If I had a motor lift, that would have been the way I did it.


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (darisd)*


_Quote, originally posted by *darisd* »_
I think Gary said something about not wanting to run the risk of the motor falling off the jack, so that is why he left the mounts on the motor and jacked it upwards. 
But yeah, I saw that option as well. If I had a motor lift, that would have been the way I did it. 

Actually, the main reason I raised it is that I didn't want to mess with the stretch bolts that connect the passenger side mount to the engine. I figured it would be less trouble to just remove the mount to body bolts and then lift the engine and mounts up. You can't lower the engine unless you remove the passenger's side mount from the engine.


----------



## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

So happy 2009 to the waterpump DIY thread http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Guess what I'm doing this weekend








I see that there are a lot of extra holes in the waterpump pulley... can these be used to access the waterpump bolts? ie, can you pull the waterpump & pulley as one unit?
I am not looking forward to those three bolts holding the pulley onto the waterpump


















_Modified by VR6ix at 10:05 PM 1-23-2009_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VR6ix)*

Yes, the three big holes are for accessing the waterpump bolts. You can remove those three only and then remove the pump and pulley together, but there might not be enough room to get both out completely. Depends on the model and how much you move the engine.


----------



## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Application was a 2001 5-speed with A/C. I had a CAI so beyond loosening the strap for that, the drivers'-side mount was a no-brainer.
I left the pulley on the pump and broke the three 6mm bolts loose to free the pump from the block. My socket wrench woudn't fit to get at the lower bolt, so I used the 6mm Allen key from my mountain-bike multi-tool and a pair of channel-lock pliers. Then took the three pulley bolts off the pump with an electric impact gun, no problem








In the end I had the motor lifted a lot, the front edge of the pass. mount was 6.125" off the frame







the last little bit of lift was to get room for the impeller to come out of the block

























I decided to take a break and busted-out the Dremel to get rid of the 40-grit casting texture on the new metal-impeller pump. Only put enough time/effort into this to take the peaks off the texture. My original plastic pump was intact and the blades were smooth, so I figured, why not?
One raw blade shown, the rest quickly ground down; this was a GEBA _wasserpumpe_:









Getting the new serpentine belt on was the most difficult part of this (new belt is rather tight even with the tensioner cranked). I'd rate the whole thing as:
Difficulty level:




































Experience level:




































Busted-Knuckles Factor:





































Up next is the Gruven Parts billet thermostat housing... oh, wait, come on now, gitt'er done already!!! We all need that part like yesterday !!!


----------



## djtreson88 (Apr 26, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

very helpful thanks


----------



## KOZILLA (Feb 14, 2009)

Everything but the pump is out (all bolts are out) but i cant get the pump to even move. what did everyone use? 162,000 miles


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## mk4vrjtta (Feb 3, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VR6ix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6ix* »_Application was a 2001 5-speed with A/C. I had a CAI so beyond loosening the strap for that, the drivers'-side mount was a no-brainer.
I left the pulley on the pump and broke the three 6mm bolts loose to free the pump from the block. My socket wrench woudn't fit to get at the lower bolt, so I used the 6mm Allen key from my mountain-bike multi-tool and a pair of channel-lock pliers. Then took the three pulley bolts off the pump with an electric impact gun, no problem








In the end I had the motor lifted a lot, the front edge of the pass. mount was 6.125" off the frame







the last little bit of lift was to get room for the impeller to come out of the block

























I decided to take a break and busted-out the Dremel to get rid of the 40-grit casting texture on the new metal-impeller pump. Only put enough time/effort into this to take the peaks off the texture. My original plastic pump was intact and the blades were smooth, so I figured, why not?
One raw blade shown, the rest quickly ground down; this was a GEBA _wasserpumpe_:









Getting the new serpentine belt on was the most difficult part of this (new belt is rather tight even with the tensioner cranked). I'd rate the whole thing as:
Difficulty level:




































Experience level:




































Busted-Knuckles Factor:





































Up next is the Gruven Parts billet thermostat housing... oh, wait, come on now, gitt'er done already!!! We all need that part like yesterday !!!









wow! you lifted that sucker up! haha..i will be doing the 2nd water pump job on my car in the next week...this is a very good write-up , used it the first time...and now again!


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## piledriver (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (mk4vrjtta)*

Pull the mount and drop the motor, this procedure is absolutely bogus. It should take ~ 30 min or less to do this from the bottom, with no risk of (very likely) damaging your O2 sensors and or downpipe bellows.
If the bolt heads say "10.9" they are NOT stretch bolts.


_Modified by piledriver at 11:27 PM 4-20-2009_


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## dpe415 (Nov 28, 2007)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Just wanted to say thanks to VgRt6. This post was a life saver! Including all new bolts, the pump, pulley and coolant, I spent less than $200.
It is a lot easier than it looks as well. The toughest part was removing the bolts for the metal coolant pipe at the front of the engine bay.
Thanks for your willingness to share such excellent information with us all!


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## Endo1025 (Jun 13, 2008)

saw-wheat! thanks.


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (DrTacoElf)*

Good write up, helped me today when doing this. Very very simple to do.
I have some advice.
There is absolutely no need to remove the water pump pulley and risk stripping those bolts.
My suggestion is to skip the pulley and go straight to the water pump bolts that mount it to the block. Just turn the pulley with the belt off of course and use your hex socket with wrench and reach right through the pulley to all 3 bolts. 
I did not remove my pulley, there is no need and this way is much easier, no need for the pulley to be held in place while trying to remove pulley bolts. I popped off the water pump with plenty of room to pull it out complete.
I followed your procedure dropped the tranny side about 6 inches and raised the right side about 2 inches and I also scooted over the motor about 1-2inches. (guessing since I did not measure at all, no time for that)
Just a suggestion. 
EDIT: looks like it was covered sorry!


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## Endo1025 (Jun 13, 2008)

*Re: (AZV6)*

not being a hands on person, i decided to give my pump a try this weekend, the DIY is right on point. i should have read a little farther seeing as you guys got the damn thing out with just lowering the motor. you gotta have midget hands to get that thing out of there. and the motor was raised about 6 inches off the mounts. 2 in stated in the diy is not enough. took me about 6 hours but it was all worth it. thanks for the instructions. if i can do it.. anyone can.


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## boltsjr (Mar 15, 2004)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

thanks for the great post but the motor had to come up about 4 and half inches on my car otherwise it was spot on


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## crippled4life (Feb 19, 2006)

*Re: (antera-309)*

thank you. nice write up.


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## piledriver (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: (crippled4life)*

Its a nice writeup of a bad procedure, dropping the motor takes less than 30 minutes and won't destroy your O2sensors. My son lost both from attempting this, and never did get enough clearance to get the pump out doing it this bogus way.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (piledriver)*

It's not a "bad procedure", it's a matter of preference. I've done it this way a number of times and never damaged an O2 sensor. Maybe the problem was the person following the procedure, and not the procedure. Also, there is no room to drop the engine, at least in my car, without disconnecting the downpipe. That can be a challenging step, depending on the condition of the exhaust manifold-to-downpipe studs and nuts.
I'd love to see you or someone else drop a VR6 in a MKIV (that last part is important) low enough to get a water pump out in less than 30 minutes. Video it and post it on YouTube. I'll watch the entire thing. I'll believe it when I see it.


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## billiethebutcher (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
I'd love to see you or someone else drop a VR6 in a MKIV (that last part is important) low enough to get a water pump out in less than 30 minutes. Video it and post it on YouTube. I'll watch the entire thing. I'll believe it when I see it.










your on gary, ill do it in 21 minutes! there is a reason i was the vortexpert








as for the repair, its personal preference on the repair, pump out the top or bottom. 
along with the trans teardown i wanna write a DIY for this too.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (billiethebutcher)*

Was?


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## Das Borgen (Sep 10, 2008)

*Re: (VgRt6)*

come on boys. No need to compare lengths of your johnsons online. Do it in a closet and then come out


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## VegasVik (Apr 1, 2007)

*Re: (billiethebutcher)*

A DIY for the bottom-out method would be most excellent for comparison.
(I have a Jetta Mk4 VR6)


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## paslocal1 (Jun 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

Hey VgRt6 (or anyone who might know),
On the vw repair software it says to use specialty vw tool VAG 1331 Torque Wrench & a 3387 Pinch Wrench... to remove pulley first, then water pump. 
Just wondering if these tools make the job easier at all? They are a bit expensive and i found them at baumtools out of florida so im considering buying them before starting the repair.
thnx.. and cheers to vortex!
paslocal1
2000 mk4 12v VR6 jetta
132,000+

_Modified by paslocal1 at 4:26 PM 1-16-2010_


_Modified by paslocal1 at 4:27 PM 1-16-2010_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (paslocal1)*

There's no need to buy those special tools. It would be good to use a torque wrenh, but most any quality brand will do. No need to overpay for a VW-branded wrench. I use Craftsman torque wrenches that I paid $40+ for each.
The pin wrench is used to hold the pump pulley still while you remove the pulley bolts. Instead, just stick a tick screwdriver through one of the holes in the pulley and pin it against the block to keep the pulley from spinning.


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## Bikerboy324 (Jan 12, 2010)

Hey thanks a lot for this diy man ... I changed my water pump and the leak was coming from just a wasted o ring but the water pump looked good no broken pieces.. thanks alot for all the help


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: (Bikerboy324)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## paslocal1 (Jun 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

um, ok then will skip buying the torque wrench and forking out 5 large bills for no good reason. Funny my manual doesnt tell me to raise the engine.. (scratching head). I think they must have forgoten to include that section..


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (paslocal1)*

I love that the Bentley procedure for changing the pump is only 4 steps or something ridiculous like that. Whoever wrote it probably never actually did it.


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## paslocal1 (Jun 3, 2009)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

thnx for the help VgRt6... i used your writeup from the Master Thread list, felt pretty confident using your steps.. it went pretty smooth considering it was reasonably challenging job. 
Everything matched up except I think your Tranny oil pan was removed for one of the pictures?!








After i finished the job though I found that the circulation got messed up.. but I think thats due to all the sludge crap leftover from water , no coolant , and stop leak http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Im guessing from what ive read on here its the thermostat thats stuck closed since the lower radiator hose is not getting hot, but the engine starts to overheat after 10 minutes!
Thinking I'll just open up the T-stat housing on Sat and clean it out.. i just replaced it a year ago..


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## ks_jetta_head (Mar 13, 2010)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (VgRt6)*

In case you stripped your bolts on the water pump and pulley (







douh!), the part numbers for the m8x20 (water pump to engine) is n90221803 and the bolts for the pulley to water pump (m8x11) is n90544203. I had to de-thread the heads, what a nightmare! but got them off.


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## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - Replacing the main water pump on a MKIV 12v VR6 (paslocal1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *paslocal1* »_Everything matched up except I think your Tranny oil pan was removed for one of the pictures?!









That part isn't present on manual transmission cars.


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## Molotov_Maton (Jul 22, 2009)

*Help...*

Hey guys, it seems like my VR6 12v its leaking from the water pump. Now, the reason why I think it is from the water pump, its because of the area where the leak comes from. It comes from the side of the engine where the pulleys are located which is where the water pump is located too. _DUH_!

Now, how can we self diagnosticate if the water pump it what actually leaks? I read the DIY and I notice It mentions that what usually happens it a wierd noise coming from the bearing of the pump and to later start leaking. I haven't been able to notice any wierd noise coming from the area. 

Are there anyother objects such as houses, pipes or anything else from the area where the water pump its located that could be causing a leak? 

What about a "Auxiliary Water Pump"? I haven heard anything of it, I just came across it in this catalong of this online parts store. 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--VR6_12v/Engine/Cooling/Water_Pump/ES4223/

Now for those who have done this job before, how hard and complicated is it to do? How long does it take to do? I am not a mechanic but some how I could say I can do it. I have replaced my waterpice, thermostat housing, spark plugs and wires all by myself and of curse thanks to all the guys who wrote alll those DIYs. 

Thanks for any replays guys.


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## aestheticcataclysm (Jul 12, 2010)

Much thanks are in order for this great writeup. I've been on the car for about twenty minutes and i'm taking a lunch break, but I've already got the engine raised. OP is my hero :beer: cheers sir. 

- edit - 

so the "mechanic" :banghead: that did this job one month before I bought the car took the bolts off with vice grips and stripped these bolts to oblivion. It's no wonder it was leaking, there was no way to get the proper torque. I removed the washer fluid reservoir and jacked the motor up another few inches. I was working on an incline and have aftermarket exhaust so clearance seemed to be good for the extra lift. I managed to get a lot more working room by removing the two plastic 10mm nuts that hold the washer fluid reservoir in place, disconnecting the two plugs and relocating it. From there I inserted a 6mm hex tip for a ratchet, carefully tapped it into place with a hammer, used a swivel socket and a breaker bar and took it loose while applying pressure directly to the 6mm tip so that it wouldn't go anywhere. My car was about a foot in the air so I used a foot stool for more leverage. For the lowest bolt on the pump, I had to use a 6mm hex key, tap it in firm with a hammer, and use a 10mm deep socket on the end of a long 1/2 inch extension to break it loose. 

I replaced the bolts with identical m8x1.5 grade 8 hex head standard bolts so I could do this with an open end or box end wrench if I had to do it again, and got some anti-seize. I just got it all back together with a new upper radiator hose assy, coolant flush and switch to g12 plus plus, and everything is running great. No more leaks!


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## wav3form (Dec 7, 2008)

Anyone have a tip on getting the 6mm allen bolt that holds the metal coolant pipe in Step 9? I can't fit a hex on there without hitting stuff. When I can fit one on there i can't get enough leverage on the wrench to turn the bolt. 

edit: NM, I got it. :laugh:


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## wav3form (Dec 7, 2008)

Phewww... just finished this job! Well, mostly... I still need to put the air box back on and fill the car with coolant but it got too dark out.

The only thing I did differently was not loosen the trans mount bolts (i did remove the two dog bone bolts however). I was able to get enough lift on the engine to take the pump out complete with pulley but I had to really get that engine up there and it was a nail biter but I didn't hear or see anything break. 

Now I hope after I get the rest of the stuff buttoned up tomorrow that I didn't break something inadvertently. 

The old pump fell right out and still had the plastic impeller vanes intact. I noticed a lot of dried up coolant near each of the vent holes so I'm guessing my leak was due to a bad bearing? The o-ring looked ok as well. The pulley bolts also removed very easily.

Overall it was a straight forward and simple job. I really have no advice to give other than follow the directions in the DIY, read the comments and use your head and you can't go wrong. :thumbup:


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## RossJMU (Nov 29, 2008)

To those of you that lowered the engine instead of raising it.....how do you go about doing it?


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## slobbymk3 (Jan 26, 2009)

awesome dyi dude


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## mmcverry (Sep 7, 2007)

*My VW maintained by Gary*

Thanks for the great write up Gary. It's the 2nd one I've followed of yours and it was flawless. Total this took about 5 hours for me including prep time, change belt, re-grease tensioner pulley, clean up, dinner, some phone conversations, etc. 

I performed this on an 01 GTI and didn't need to detach the tranny mount. In fact, I was able to jack the enigne up about 5-6 inches and had no binding, just enough to slide the pump out. 

Once again, phenomenal write up. 

:thumbup:


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## NewDub650 (May 24, 2010)

Gary, I hope you're still out there reading the forum and doing good work.

I'm on Step 29 of 55. So far, so good. My main fear is the pulley bolts and the pump mounting bolts. Today, I hope to raise the engine, shove it over and at least get the pulley off. My parts haven't arrived yet, so there's really no need to rush things.

The patient is a 2001 MkIV Jetta, um...GLX. The loaded one. Or were all VR6's loaded? 187,000 miles so far.


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## NewDub650 (May 24, 2010)

Ok, I'm at Step 47 and no real hang-ups yet. I can tell that I haven't shoved the engine over far enough to get the pump out. I'm waiting on the parts and for a buddy to come over and help me muscle this hog over. The pump is unbolted, just sitting in the block so I don't anticipate any problems.


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## NewDub650 (May 24, 2010)

After a long delay getting parts, another satisfied customer. Thanks for the excellent procedure.:beer:


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## kem52 (May 2, 2011)

*Up or down?*

On my 2001 Jetta GLX, the entire water pump pulley is blocked by the sidewall, both above and below. To get the clearance seen in the DIY step 42 I would need at least a 6" rise to the engine, but still I think at least 1/3 of the pulley will be blocked by the curved part of the sidewall under the engine mount.

So, has anyone just removed the oxy sensors for more clearance and a safety margin?

I'm nervous about "shoving" an engine on a jack... This works? 

Everything is cleared and ready to go, but I stared at that thing all day today trying to decide whether to take it up or drop it down. Either way it's going to need to move a good 6".


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## jesteratc (Jun 12, 2008)

Just did this swap using the method shown in the DIY.

So far its worked out fantastic. We "Father and i" are in the re-assembly phase. Yesterday we started at 8:30 and considering we had to also do the crack pipe got the water pump in at 1:00 and i didnt have the crack pipe to replace so were finishing that tonight hopefully.

Heres some pics.

































Below is a video of what was happening.
http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii13/jesteratc/?action=view&current=video-2011-04-26-19-20-41.mp4
The water pump finally failed after 160,000 miles








which is really good in my opinion. The only thing that sucked was where they put it.

Following your DIY step by step made this a breeze. Although were were using both DIY's at the same time for the crack pipe








and the water pump removal.

It deffinately made a difference to have 2 hands on the removal and install of the water pump. It ened up me being the pry bar man forcing the engine over to the drivers side, and my dad slipping the new one in.

Of course a lot of the fins had broken off as you can see in the pic. 
But luckily we were able to get our fingers in there and pull them out.

Thank you so much for this DIY VgRt6 it made it all the easier.

PS. We didnt crush any o2 sensors, but we did end up having to take th Transmission bolts out to finally get enough room.


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## big65 (Apr 5, 2011)

Going to be doing this this weekend seeing as my pump gave out 5 blocks from the house taking the serp belt with it. Might as well do the thermostat while I'm working on the pump and will also tackle the aux pump since I have it sitting around ready to go in.

Funny how several people claim to have a better way of doing the pump removal but haven't ponied up the video proof of it.


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## kem52 (May 2, 2011)

*Success!*

Many thanks to the OP for this DIY! Everything went flawlessly. I can't say how long it took, as I went very slowly and very carefully, and replaced the thermostat, crack pipe, and a coolant temp sensor in the process. Here are my notes to add:

It looks like there is no way you will have room to get the water pump out, no way, but there is room, somehow it just works out. My water pump came out very easily. I estimate that I raised then engine about 4 inches.

You can monitor the condition of the O2 sensors by simply jack a bit, check, jack, check, etc. I went up carefully until the sensor wire just started to touch and curl over.

The engine on my car just slid over to the driver's side as I went up, no need to push. I used one jack on the oil pan coming in from the driver's side of the car.

The pulley bolts are a pain in the ass!!!! I got two and stripped the third, but then I slashed it with a dremel and turned it out with a screwdriver blade sideways. I replaced all bolts with hex heads (using washers to shim out the pulley bolts). This also allowed my torque wrench to fit.


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## big65 (Apr 5, 2011)

Got mine out in a little over an hour bypassing the vast majority of the steps. Removed the expansion tank and power steering tank and unbolted the passenger side motor mount from the frame. Raised the engine 5-8 inches, all three bolts came out easy and two of three bolts for the pump came out easy with the bottom being a pain but came free. Twisting the pump around got it out past the frame rail and sure enough the fins were plastic so in went the new bosch pump and everything else went back together then the serp belt went on today along with an oil change and a new auxiliary coolant pump. All thats left is to flush the coolant completely and I'm done.


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## my_VR6_Jetta (Jun 1, 2011)

*Thanks again*

Dear VgRt6 


Thanks again for this great DIY. Using your instructions, I just replaced the water pump, timing belt and tensioner on my (green) 2000 Jetta GLX. The instructions were great. It took two shadetree mechanics about five hours and about a case of Becks.:beer: 

Keep it up! 

--R


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## just_e (Oct 21, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup:

AWESOME!!! just great bro! Thanks a million. In 5 hours I changed my water pump out, Auxiliary pump was replaced, changed my oil, and replaced three other cooling parts. By myshelf =( 

I must admit though, working on a VR6 is MUCH MUCH easier than working on a Lexus... I thought I'd be harder, not at all!


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## tdi2vr6 (Jul 6, 2004)

Great write up Gary.

I currently have a coolant leak that is coming from that vicinity (there is some coolant crust under that part of the engine)

I don't have the time or money right now to get it fixed, or fix it myself. 

*Does anyone know whether it's possible to leak from the water-pump area? 

Are there any hoses near there?*

Something else recently happened that is likely contributing factor: I recently had my hoses changed, and the mechanic forgot to plug in the radiator switch. And consequently had a few days of overheating because of it... 


Thanks!

My car: 2000 MK4 VR6, 12V (gls) 5-spd


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## James 93SLC (Sep 27, 2000)

tdi2vr6 said:


> *Does anyone know whether it's possible to leak from the water-pump area?
> 
> *


*

Certainly, the water pump itself will leak if the shaft seals fail. There are weep holes on the pump that will leak when they fail.

If the plastic water pipe (crack pipe) fails at the water pump end, then you can also get a leak there.*


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## og triple og (May 25, 2011)

hey man thank you so much for a DIY its great!!! I owe you beer so here it goes... :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer: ac close as i can get to buy u a drink for now LOL thanks again


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## CrazyMikeJr14 (Apr 12, 2008)

Thank u!


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## fastvr67 (May 13, 2010)

I have been following this DIY and it's been working great but I can't seem to be able to move my motor and trans the driver side of the car to be able to get enough room to unscrew the 6pm hex bolts attaching the pulley. And it seems that the problem is he trans bolts when loosing them still are in the way, what would happennifni were to take them out instead of just loosening them???

Trying to finish this today so a quick answer is needed thankyou!


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## holladayego (Sep 29, 2011)

Just wanted to say great job on the diy it made swapping the water pump in my gf's car a piece of cake :beer:


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## Juro (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks, I used your Timing chain diy and now this. I'd like to thank you for the help!:beer:


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## zanderbone (Dec 3, 2011)

Pulling the water pump on a 2003 jetta GLI. Still waiting on the water pump to come in but as I was tearing into it I noticed that the bolts that hole the pump to the block are 12 point and not a hex stud. I do not have the socket so will have to buy one. 

Question.....I have a bad feeling about the bolts not coming out, what can I do if they strip out?
I anyone has dealt with these bolts let me know.

Thanks.


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## MSFerrariF1 (Nov 14, 2008)

i've done this in 1 hour just by dropping the right side of the engine and pulling the pump out from underneath instead of raising the whole engine.


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## calypso1990gli (Sep 17, 2011)

I didn't see this thread did mine this morning in 45 min just by dropping the dogbone and the drivers engine mount dropped the motor down and it was easy to do from underneath. Most of the time spent was waiting for coolant to drain.


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## VolodkaVR (Jan 9, 2009)

MSFerrariF1 said:


> i've done this in 1 hour just by dropping the right side of the engine and pulling the pump out from underneath instead of raising the whole engine.





calypso1990gli said:


> I didn't see this thread did mine this morning in 45 min just by dropping the dogbone and the drivers engine mount dropped the motor down and it was easy to do from underneath. Most of the time spent was waiting for coolant to drain.


My pump started leaking again ( bad quality pump...). I've done it before thru raising the engine. this time I'll try to drop it and see if it works.Will report after I'm done.


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## gr8shot10 (May 3, 2011)

*Not much experience required*









Remvoed all the crap on pass side (coolant resivoir, wiper fluid bottle and lines) removed dog bone and undid pass side engine mount.








jacked it up until i had enough clearance for the pump and walllahhh

Pump: Graf Water pump with metal impeller (be sure it wont break next time)

Cautions: Carefull on those damn pump pulley bolts make sure your socket or whatever you use is in all the way and stays straight, careful on the upper service port and crack pipe (make sure they dont get caught when you get excited!!! and let the engine down too quick!!) 
Time: 6hrs start to finish with breaks cus it was 30 damn degrees outside.


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## sniper512 (Mar 29, 2004)

I am really confused why people are raising their motors?????? This should take 30 mins by simply raising the passenger side of the car. Then take the wheel off and the lower side engine bay cover. From the top you need to take the left side engine cover off and the serp belt. Now support the motor and loosen the motor mount on the passenger side. Lower the motor. Underneath take off the water pump pulley. Then unbolt the water pump. Pop the pump out and use a bar to pry the engine away from the frame rail and pull the pump out. That's it honestly. Now just clean up the area well and reinstall the new pump. ENJOY!


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## Yak Meat (Sep 28, 2011)

need this!


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## moofoodoolooo (Jun 28, 2012)

This write up was an immense help. Thank you so much. 

I stripped a pulley bolt and had to grind it out. I ended up grinding the side of the pulley a little bit. After 60 miles, my bolts rattled out. 

Is it possible I grinded the pulley enough that it's off balance? Lock tight? That pump gets so damn hot those screws seem to come out pretty easily.


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## nhlrules8 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Great write up*

I have a 01 gti with 90k miles. Got this done in about 3 hours and that's including a trip to Home Depot to get the right bolt to get the tensioner off. I would suggest getting craftsman 6mm hex socket and ball end set. The trouble you can get into by stripping the bolt heads starts with bad tools. The problem that I currently have is that it through my alignment off when I lifted the engine and tranny! Might have to straighten out the trans mount to align it correctly.


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## gringo_54_oval (Oct 4, 2010)

*big thanks to VgRt6*

Hi mate,
Just would like to say thanks for your write up on how to replace the water pump.

Next time your in Sydney Australia i owe you a few beers!!!


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## VLub13 (Nov 28, 2002)

Here's a link to the under the car method.

Under the car


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## davefree11 (Feb 10, 2014)

*Great write up*

10 years later, this saved me a lot of $. my water pump went out this past weekend. with 145k miles on my 2000 Jetta, I assume it was the original water pump. it took me about 5 hours to complete, counting a food break and a couple runs to the parts store (for a socket extension and breaker bar, for the transmission mounts) I didn't disconnect the coolant line (it never got close to the AC service valve) thanks so much for this write up. :thumbup:


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## vr fix (Aug 7, 2006)

*Lifesaver DIY*

did this DIY on Saturday after 125k miles... only had to lift the motor on the passenger side an inch or so... attempted to scoot it to the driver side but it didn't budge much.. had enough clearance regardless. TY TY TY


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## SlackJaw-609 (Jan 16, 2012)

Flawless write up all the way to the torque specs. Just used it myself. Thank you for putting your time in to this :thumbup:


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## PhilMahooters (Apr 9, 2014)

*Just one tiny thing*

Might not work if the car is on ramps. Letting the left-side wheel dangle, (as when on stands), extends the drive axle just enough so you can slide the engine/tranny over enough to remove/install water pump. That was my experience on a 2001 12v VR6.


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## Joeinthekeys (May 10, 2014)

*Not needed*

:banghead::banghead:

*Before you do this READ!!!! I have a 2001 Jetta with VR6 / Auto. Found another write up and glad I did that said to drop the engine not raise it. I just finished my pump in about an hour Simple steps.
1. Break Loose Passenger side lug studs.
2. Raise the car on stands I support mine at the craddle to chassis mounts behind engine bay.
3. Remove Passenger side tire/wheel.
4. Loosen Steering Fluid box (10mm) remove wire support just slides off first.
5. Put jack with 2x4 or 4x4 under oil pan and load just a little.
6. Remove 2 18mm mount bolts between power steering and engine.
7. Use bolt to unload tensioner 
8. Reach under and move the belt off of waterpump. crank and ac
9. Lower engine all the way until jack lets weight on exhaust yes this is the only thing I did not like but had to to get pump out. I put jack back to help support
10. Use 6mm to remove pulley bolts and used a flat screwdriver in holes to keep from turning.
11. 6mm again to remove 3 bolts holding pump on.
12. Tap with hammer to loosen and remove the pump, at first I did not think it would come out but wiggled engine a little and it did come out. 

That easy. Nothing to remove other than the 2 motor mount bolts, and wheel, didnt have to do the steering but made it easier to get to the 18mm bolts.
*


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## milkywaystyle (Jun 25, 2014)

*Awesome*

Awesome write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do this, you saved us major $!


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## ThirdGTI (May 30, 2002)

*I dropped the engine*

I have been dreading this project for a while. After reading some of the replies saying to drop the engine I decided to give that method a try. It worked very well. I did not remove anything from the engine. I did remove the passenger side wheel well plastic shield to gain better access to the pump area. Just undid the mount bolts and used a jack with 2x6 under the engine to lower. At about 3 inches drop it would go no further. But I was able to easily get the pump out with that amount of drop. Took me about an hour.


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## noanoxan (Jan 8, 2014)

Just did this to my car today, and the only bit of advice I can give is to replace the weaksauce 8.8 water pump bolts with 12.9 class, some hardened washers, and to use anti-seize. The size of the bolts are m8-1.25x20mm, and Lowes has them in packs of two for $1.29. The washers were $1.09 for a pack of eight. Good luck stripping these lol. 

Also, I didn't loosen the torque mount, and was able to lift the motor about 2"—barely enough room to crack the bolts loose, but enough. I did have to lower the engine though to get the old pump out through the bottom, and install the new one.


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## 94GLSIII2.0 (Mar 5, 2013)

Just some info for you guys:
I found this project to be a little bit out of my league . Removing motor mounts and dropping the engine did not sound like my cup of tea. So I got 2 estimates for just changing out the water pump. $560 and $415 . The lower was an estimate from my local VW shop who works on nothing but VW and Audi. They did a great job and had it finished in 4 hrs. Just wanted to put this out there for anyone not comfortable doing the job so they had an estimate of what its gonna cost. I am located in NC.


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## MonsterCoatings (Dec 16, 2015)

*Water pump Will never win!*

Thanks for all the positive input from everyone helping me get this done.

Few observations from my horror story.
Went up not down (glad I did, you'll see why in the pic).
Everything went smoothly up to the point of trying to remove the pump. All bolts and non-pump parts came out easily. Followed the guide mostly but I took a few shortcuts like only removing the steel bracket and two bolts only under the trans/motor did not disconnect the driveline but did wedge two hockey pucks above the O2 sensors protecting them from damage while jacking up the engine.

This is when all the problems started. All the pump and pulley screws came out easily, (my Spidey sense said this was way too easy) the pump would not budge. tapped with hammer (worked quickly up to wrecking ball poundings) and screwdriver then chisel. MOFO would not budge. Torch it to try to break corrosion away & even some PB Blaster, Kroil for good measure with food run in-between to give it time to work. Everything we had in the shop was tossed at it. Broke off two of the screw mole mounts to the edge of the inner contact area. DID NOT WANT TO COME OUT.
Not to be made a fool out of a stupid little part out came the cobalt drill set. Had to hog out the entire thing and break the inner casting out from the walls to get this bastard out. Corroded to unbelievable hell.









After a few celebratory :beer::beer::beer: upon its eviction we cleaned up all the metal shrapnel and shavings with a shop vac. Assembly wise she went all back together without a hitch.

SO hopefully this is the worst case scenario you will run into but always be prepared for the worst.

Few notes:
Pick up a M8x40 socket cap screw before the job to insert into the belt tensioner release to make life easier.
Always prepare for the worst.
DOn't ever let a faulty part get the best of you.
Always have beer on hand to forget all the above in the name of sanity.


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## jdwxly (Jan 1, 2013)

*Great write up! and a caution for automatics...*

My car is a 99.5 Jetta MkIV GLX VR6. Just followed this process over the weekend and had no issues swapping out the water pump. I only had to raise the engine about 2" and had no binding issues at all.

One head's up, though, is jacking under the transmission. On my car (4-speed automatic) the transmission pan is plastic. Definitely _not_ a good jacking point! I put my single floor jack under the oil pan but just to the left (driver's side) of the drain plug. With the Passenger side and pendulum mount bolts out and the driver side mount bolts loose the engine lifted easily. I had to use a crow bar to shift it slightly left when wiggling the old water pump out.


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## Steve1169 (Jul 24, 2011)

Ive done both ways and dropping it is much easier than the raising method.
1 hour job disconnect two engine mount bolts, lower engine, replace pump, motor mount bolts back in and done
Much respect to OP though, your diy's have helped me and countless others do things to our dubs that i wouldnt have otherwise done :thumbup::beer:




Joeinthekeys said:


> :banghead::banghead:
> 
> *Before you do this READ!!!! I have a 2001 Jetta with VR6 / Auto. Found another write up and glad I did that said to drop the engine not raise it. I just finished my pump in about an hour Simple steps.
> 1. Break Loose Passenger side lug studs.
> ...


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## mk4vr6jetta02 (Nov 10, 2014)

Bump for question... I have now had the engine up twice to try and replace the water pump. The first time I got there and the pulley bolts were shot, so I had to put it all back together since I didn't have replacements. The second time I had replacements and a chisel, but that didn't do anything either. 

I've tried vice grips, I've tried channel locks, I've tried just smashing the stupid things off. Now I'm out of ideas short of getting a grinder in there, and I don't want to risk ruining a perfectly good pulley. 

Help?! I would like to only have to raise it once more to be able to replace the stupid thing. 

Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk


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## 807corrado (Sep 5, 2018)

Joeinthekeys said:


> :banghead::banghead:
> 
> *Before you do this READ!!!! I have a 2001 Jetta with VR6 / Auto. Found another write up and glad I did that said to drop the engine not raise it. I just finished my pump in about an hour Simple steps.
> 1. Break Loose Passenger side lug studs.
> ...


sorry to bring back from the dead... i have an 01 5spd and find that the exhaust hits the steering rack, anyone figure anything out or did everyone just do the raise method, bently says lower bit doesn't make mention of hanging up on the exhaust, again sorry to bring back but got the car apart in the garage ATM


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