# No valve cover gasket for 2.0 TSI?



## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

Searched and searched to no avail...


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

OK so more searching on here reveals there is no "gasket" and that there is a special green sealant-type gasket, which is expensive ($150). This supposedly requires removal of cams, although I've yet to see any writeup on the matter. I did see a pic online however of what looked like the valve cover incorporating bosses which looks like it could hold down the camshafts?

http://www.audi-club.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=390905


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## CC'ed (Dec 1, 2009)

The valve cover is also serves as the top halves of the cam bearing journals. You do not have to remove the cams to remove and reseal the cover, but the torque specs and tightening order of the bolts is critical.


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

CC'ed said:


> The valve cover is also serves as the top halves of the cam bearing journals. You do not have to remove the cams to remove and reseal the cover, but the torque specs and tightening order of the bolts is critical.


Very cool thank you. I can do that. Just need to get my hands on torque specs and sequence pattern(s).


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

Ubah said:


> Very cool thank you. I can do that. Just need to get my hands on torque specs and sequence pattern(s).


You'll need a cam lock when removing the cover.


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

DasCC said:


> You'll need a cam lock when removing the cover.


Yes, thank you. Never used one, but it looks self-explanatory.


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## cube4da99 (Mar 25, 2006)

can i ask why you think its leaking i might have the same problem you are having but i found that the timing cover is leaking and it is caming down by the valve cover even my intake manifold i stall tested the car and found this


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

cube4da99 said:


> can i ask why you think its leaking i might have the same problem you are having but i found that the timing cover is leaking and it is caming down by the valve cover even my intake manifold i stall tested the car and found this


Mostly because of the leak I see around where the timing cover meets the valve cover and what I thought was leaking from the valve cover on the backside/exhaust side.
Having doubts now. Here's what I see in the following video's;

1. A small leak around where the timing cover meets the valve cover.
2. A small leak from the small o-ring plug (with electrical connector (I point to) on front of valve cover.
3. Another, probably the largest leak, where the hose that connects to the back side of the PCV assembly, but this looks old... I have since replaced the PCV, and there is no sign of fresh oil coming from that connector. You can see where the oil was coming off of that connection and then running down to the backside of the valve cover (exhaust side).

1. I'm going to see what can be done about what looks like a black rubber gasket between the valve cover/timing cover......
2. Replace leaky o-ring on the electrical connector thingy on front of valve cover.
3. clean up, clean off oil to see where it comes back (fingers crossed).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ilr_SBoyaB8&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7EUwOQ0ng&feature=youtu.be


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## 9r's_CC (Feb 1, 2012)

If I'm not mistaken, the bolts on the valve cover are one use bolts. If you take it off, you should buy new bolts too!


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

*Time to reassess situation.*

So I've decided to step back from the situation to try to think this through logically before tearing into things.
It was extremely hard to tell where the leak was coming from even after washing the engine down with soapy water (not enough to cut through grease & oil). So I decided to use 2 cans of engine degreaser and clean everything on the engine... washed, dried and drove it to work and back (60 miles).

Low and behold, I could see where the oil was collecting from the back of the PCV (new) assembly and continued to weep and settle on the entire firewall side of the valve cover. I cleaned the area again and this time I put some RTV sealant on the back portion of where the PCV gasket meets the valve cover (I'm pointing to the area it was leaking from). I made sure I torqued it exactly to specifications, sequence (not sure how close I followed sequence previously which may have caused my leak!)


Prior to replacing the PCV (about a month ago) I also noticed what could be oil coming from the studs which hold the engine cover down (2 which have o-ring seals), as well as what may be a leak from what appears to be a "plug" (it's black and there are 3 of them with o-ring seals). In addition, there is a cam position sensor at the front of the valve cover which was also leaking.

I have since replaced all of those items and will post up my results with pics and part numbers.
Fingers crossed... I've only let in idle in the driveway for about 10 minutes but no signs of oil leakage yet.
I'm going to drive around tomorrow and continue to follow up this thread. :beer:


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## [email protected] (Sep 18, 2012)

Defiantly the correct approach IMO. 

Keep us updated.

Phil


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

*Update*

Update: 2 of the 9 bolts holding my PCV box are stripped... was wondering why I couldn't get it torqued properly... thus the resultant oil leak which continued from the box. The other small leaks have since dried up since resealing. I've been busy at work (working now lol), but I will be sure to post pics, part numbers, torque specs, etc.

Anyway I'm not going to mess with putting helicoils in it myself, I'll just take it to my mechanic next week and tool around in the Passat 3.6 until I fix the CC, I forget how fun the 3.6 is. :laugh: :beer:


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## Ubah (Jan 15, 2015)

So the oil leak/seepage has been pinpointed to where my PCV box meets with the valve cover itself.
There were two stripped bolts which needed rethreads (helicoil), which I left for mechanic to do just in case I screwed up.

These two bolts on the PCV box would not torque to spec (duh), thus the oil leak occurred in that region... more or less, but because the entire head slopes towards the firewall... it's hard to chase down leaks coming from up top.

So everything is torqued to spec (again) and it still leaked a little. So I put some blue RTV in there and the leak slowed way down to just some minimal weeping. The whole design is just awful. A huge plastic box which interfaces with the aluminum valve cover and the bolts don't quite make it all the way around the box making it weird and tough to torque properly. The valve cover gets very hot and that plastic is easy to warp IMHO.

More on my plight! :laugh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dWGlXSu50k&feature=youtu.be

_Anyway as promised, here are some specs:_
*030-906-149 *— this is the O-ring VW has listed for the cam position sensor, * torque bolt to 9 nm*... which is completely *WRONG*. Thanks VW.
The only way to correctly replace that seal is to purchase the sensor itself (sits on front of valve cover). 

*VW 06H-115-418-P* — These are the 3 plastic "plugs" which just pop on/off with a twist. They have the O-ring incorporated/ I think these are for viewing the cams.

*N-909-871-02* — These are the O-rings to the valve cover plastic ball-head bolts which hold the engine cover down. There are 2 of them. I just went a little more than hand tight, *about 7 to 10 nm*

*06H-103-495-AC*— latest iteration of this design. PCV/ crankase vent box/cover. *Torque bolts to 10-11 nm*.
There is a specific sequence, see pic below: :beer: :beer: :beer:


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