# Need Help with fault codes-- Any help is appreciated



## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

My Beetle is giving up these codes. I tried searching but couldn't find much. 
Any help is appreciated 

p1237 Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 1 

p1239 Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 3 

p1240 Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 4 

p1238 Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 2 

p1541 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Open 

p1425 Tank Ventilation Valve Short To Ground 

p1117 O2S Sensor Heater Circuit Short To Ground Bank 1 Sensor 2 

p1435 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay Circuit Short To Ground 

Thanks!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

You can look up the codes here: 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

That is allot of different codes (which may or may not be related to each other); you might go ahead and clear them; then, see if any others end up coming back... after you drive the car a bit.

What is the history of the car; how it is running, will it start etc. ?


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

The codes I found on that site are for audi? I can't find any of my codes there.

The car is running fine, starts up every time. Year is 2000 turbo 1.8

Thanks!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

VW and Audi are the same company (they are part of the VAG: "volkswagen audi group); just put your "code" (e.g. p1237) in the "search" field and then you will get information on troubleshooting and what the code means. 

Here is a example: p1237

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Special:Search?search=p1237&fulltext=Go

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17645/P1237

17645/P1237
Contents [hide] 
1 17645/P1237 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit
1.1 Possible Symptoms
1.2 Possible Causes
1.3 Possible Solutions
17645/P1237 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit

Possible Symptoms
MIL On
Poor engine performance
Possible Causes
Fuse for injector
Wiring harness issue
Failed injector
Failed ECM
Possible Solutions
Inspect fuse for injector
Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual
Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual

You can search; any and all your codes for this type of information and start your troubleshooting process; I would write down, print or save a text file, all your codes and then clear them all. Drive around and see if any of the codes come back; then, look at the codes, search on that website and go from there. 

I guess I am not understanding your situation; why did you scan the car in the first place? Is this the first time you have ever done this? What scanner or scanning software are you using to pull the codes on your car (e.g. vagcom/vcds, VAG 1552, generic OBD II scanner etc.)? Is there a problem with the car? What are we trying to diagnose or troubleshoot on your car? Let us know what is happening...


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

Thanks! I'll search every code tomorrow!

I bought a cheap obd2 scan from ebay here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30072582319...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3300wt_977

I scanned the car because I recently bought it and just wanted to know if there is anything important to do. Also my cluster looks like a christmas tree with all the lights I have on.
The program I'm using doesn't let me clear the codes, it's a free one from the internet. The car starts up fine and runs great. Only have 55k miles on it and it's from 2000. Standard 5 speed transmission. Only big problem right now is I don't have AC which I'm trying to figure out the problem also. 
The car will soon be taking to a mechanic since the suspension is getting changed to raise it a bit.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

What version of vcds are you using? From what I understand; you can clear codes with vcds lite: 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

Which specific lights in the speedo cluster are on? 

On the a/c; a very common issue with the a/c compressor not turning on or going on/off intermittently, is talked about here... check that out, mine had the same problem. I ended up having to replace the fuse box on top of the battery eventually (common problem).

http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/83/No-Compressor-Operation-in-Volkswagen-New-Beetle


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

I'll try vcd lite later today. Now it's time to take care of the boat  have yo change the bilge pump.

At the AC, I already changed the fuse box that is on top of the battery with a new one. Compressor does kick in every time as the RPM changes, already emptied a refrigerant bottle and not even a breeze of cold air. From what I've read around the forums seems to be the dryer. We'll see.
Thanks for all your help, hope you keep on helping noobs like me :laugh:
Thanks!


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

I tried the ross tech but it keeps not responding to me. Are there any other free ones I should look at?
Here are the cluster lights:


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Tell me what you mean by; "ross tech not responding", what are you doing, step by step with the usb/cable/plug and then the process with the software. To run vcds/vagcm; all the cables should be plugged into the computer (typically, there is a small light that is in the plug portion, when it is lit this denotes a good physical connection), the obd II port and the ignition in the "on" position, with the engine not running and then start the software program. Sometimes, the cable is not connected all the way in the computer usb port or the obd II port and you will get a error. You also need to run the usb driver; to get it to recognize the cable/adapter in the program as well... you did get it to work at one point right? 

Here is the procedure from ross tech: 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/usb/virtual-com-port.html

To familiarize yourself with VCDS Lite; you can use a online manual here: 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/manual/main_screen.html

It also has its limitations; as is is a free program: 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/index.html

Here are the things that you can and cannot do with it:

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html 

Once you get things work; this is the screen and functions you will want to work with: 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/manual/dtc.html



Are all those lights on; with the car running or just with the car not running, with the ignition in the "on" position (I can see the rpm up, so I am assuming the car is running)? Those look like the lights that come on; before the car is started and then they turn off when it is running. A typical OBD II code reader should be able to clear the codes or touching the positive and negative battery cables for 30 seconds or so, should clear the ecm as well.

Another thing to keep in mind; the codes that you are finding with the scans, are "stored" codes in the ecm and may not have anything to do with the current condition/status of your car (these code histories are stored, until they are cleared). That is why; many times you just clear the codes and see what comes back. If it comes right back; then it can be a "hard" failure of a component or a intermittent issues that crops up from time to time. These codes can be somewhat elusive "clues" to a greater problem, electronic or mechanical failure of some sort. Once you get codes that are consistent with the current situation with your car; then you need to do research and troubleshooting process of elimination to complete the repairs.


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

billymade said:


> Tell me what you mean by; "ross tech not responding", what are you doing, step by step with the usb/cable/plug and then the process with the software. To run vcds/vagcm; all the cables should be plugged into the computer (typically, there is a small light that is in the plug portion, when it is lit this denotes a good physical connection), the obd II port and the ignition in the "on" position, with the engine not running and then start the software program. Sometimes, the cable is not connected all the way in the computer usb port or the obd II port and you will get a error. You also need to run the usb driver; to get it to recognize the cable/adapter in the program as well... you did get it to work at one point right?
> 
> Here is the procedure from ross tech:
> 
> ...


Thanks Billy and yes I did it with the instructions. What I think is is the computer itself. It just freezes and says not responding to the program. 

The lights on the cluster come on with the car on. 

And here's my other 2 things, if you can help me out that would be awesome.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5736899-More-and-more-things&p=78034660#post78034660

Thanks for your time and knowledge


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

What version of windows are you running?

Read this for system requirements: 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/faq_1.html

How did you get the codes in the first place? Did you ever get VCDS to work; did you use a generic obd ii reader to get them?

As with typical windows troubleshooting; deinstall the program and start over again, might be a good basic thing to do. Then go from there. 

1. The thing that is not connected; looks like the combi valve (in non-Volkswagen terminology: egr valve) this is part of the secondary air injection system; the hose that may or may not be there... should connect to the air injection pump. 

2. The wire/plug that is not connected: Could be for a sensor or after reading one of your trouble codes: 

p1435 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay Circuit Short To Ground

I wonder if your air pump is connected; maybe its bad and they disconnected it? I'm just guessing from what I am seeing...


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

billymade said:


> What version of windows are you running?
> 
> Read this for system requirements:
> 
> ...


 Using Windows 7. I downloaded a free code reader from the internet but it only reads them and does not let me clear them. The program that came with the plug doesn't work with windows 7.
I'll re install the program when I get the computer back.

It seems like it does not have an air injection pump. Seems like it was removed. If it is in the same place as the 2.0l engine there's nothing in that place on my engine bay.

Searching around I read that the air pump is used for heating up the engine on a cold start?
I live in PR and it's always hot in here do I really need that pump?
Thanks!


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, give it a shot on the software; you are essentially working with a unsupported situation (shareware, 3rd party cable), so... there is NO guarantee anything will work. It worth trying and then you will have to decide if it is cost effective to purchase the genuine cable/software from ross tech. I don't know if you are going to do the repairs on your vw or if you are going to keep the car. As you know; labor rates at a VW dealer or specialized VW ind pendant shop are expensive; I had a air bag light on and the VCDS/Cable from Ross Tech paid for itself the first time, it told me what was wrong and I fixed the problem. If you are going to maintain your own VW; I think it is worth it, one visit to a shop... typically is close or beyond the cost of buying the tool. Only you can decide if it is worth it for you; most, if not all the VW people here.... have bought a official vw bentley manual software and vcds to successively repair our won cars. 

Air pump... gone! No wonder you had the code about it before; they probably found out it was bad (common failure, they seize) and took it off. It is emission related but you will continue to get check engine lights and codes until you fix it. I don't know what the emissions testing is like in Puerto Rico but here in the states... there is NO way you could pass with part of the emissions system no operating... or in your case MISSING!  

When it comes to emissions controls; there seems to be two schools of thought: those who "remove" things and those who "repair" them, keep them working like they were designed to. I want things to work like they are supposed to and I cannot stand check engine lights being on all the time (this has the bad effect of eliminating the ability to discern when other CELS come on that could be crucial to the car). Thats not to say it can't run without it; you have to decide what is important to you. Some has put resistors in the plug and trick the car into thinking it is there; you probably will still get "insufficient flow" codes, however. The pumps have come down in price or you could try to find a used one from a junk yard or something. Meanwhile, what else is wrong with the car? LOL! 

Sounds like you just need to go through the car and fix things; you might make a list and decide what is most important (crucial to the operation of the car day to day)... then when you have the money and time, start down the list until you done.  I don't know why but people seem to hack VWs allot; maybe its just ignorance or lack of money to fix things... but it just seems that way. You wouldn't believe what kind of jury rigging I have seen on these cars over the years. Also, as the repairs/parts bill keeps going up; cost effectiveness and whether you are going to keep the car long term also come into play. I guess only you can figure that out and decide what is right for you and your situation.

here are some examples of the parts you might need: 

pump mounts: 


https://www.google.com/webhp?rlz=1C....,cf.osb&fp=1b470fcc170f7fec&biw=1024&bih=749

pump hose:

https://www.google.com/webhp?rlz=1C....,cf.osb&fp=1b470fcc170f7fec&biw=1024&bih=749 



pump/combi valve:

https://www.google.com/webhp?rlz=1C....,cf.osb&fp=1b470fcc170f7fec&biw=1024&bih=749



You can look up a parts diagram and check dealer prices here: 

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/productSearch.aspx?ukey_model=15563

Do you have a 1.8T engine or a TDI? 

On the third party program that came with your cable; if you have windows 7 pro, I believe you can run xp compatibility mode. 

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/features/windows-xp-mode/

PS: if you are looking for a more active new beetle site for troubleshooting things; give this place a shot: www.newbeetle.org


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

billymade said:


> Well, give it a shot on the software; you are essentially working with a unsupported situation (shareware, 3rd party cable), so... there is NO guarantee anything will work. It worth trying and then you will have to decide if it is cost effective to purchase the genuine cable/software from ross tech. I don't know if you are going to do the repairs on your vw or if you are going to keep the car. As you know; labor rates at a VW dealer or specialized VW ind pendant shop are expensive; I had a air bag light on and the VCDS/Cable from Ross Tech paid for itself the first time, it told me what was wrong and I fixed the problem. If you are going to maintain your own VW; I think it is worth it, one visit to a shop... typically is close or beyond the cost of buying the tool. Only you can decide if it is worth it for you; most, if not all the VW people here.... have bought a official vw bentley manual software and vcds to successively repair our won cars.
> 
> Air pump... gone! No wonder you had the code about it before; they probably found out it was bad (common failure, they seize) and took it off. It is emission related but you will continue to get check engine lights and codes until you fix it. I don't know what the emissions testing is like in Puerto Rico but here in the states... there is NO way you could pass with part of the emissions system no operating... or in your case MISSING!
> 
> ...


I'll give it a go tomorrow! I also stole the air pump from my uncles jetta which is junked since he crashed. took it off today and will install tomorrow since it's pretty straight forward. 
I'll try the software tomorrow for sure! 
Of course I'll be doing the repairs on my own except for those who need machines. This is my first car so for at least 2 years I'll keep it. 
A part from that the engine is running fine, supposedly the timing belt was changed recently and also the water pump. Car only has 55k miles tho so it has a long time to go. It was used on auto shows by the first owner is what I heard. He was a freak with the car. The second owner literally destroyed the car and now I am in the process of making it stand out 

Thanks for your help Billy, I'll send you a message if I need any help!
-Ed


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Well, if you have a parts car to cannibalize; you can really save some money and also it helps to see what parts maybe missing... hopefully it is a similar year and has the same motor... if you ever get a chance to take some pics of the car.. that would be cool too! Good luck!


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

It's a jetta mk4 2.0l not the same but they share a couple parts.

And here are a couple, need some new ones.
First day









Angel eyes and led fogs









Added rear black altezzas type










And the messy part...









Painting all plastic pieces with black and wrapping a couple in carbon fiber. Door panels are being restored and I added a glove box since it didn't came with one.


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

Holy Crap... you have a FMIC? Is this thing tricked out or what? With the FMIC; I'm assuming it is a 1.8T!


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## edu01jose (Oct 24, 2011)

Yep it's a 1.8t and yeah I love the look it gives to the car


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## billymade (Jan 29, 2008)

It does kinda look cool but also looks like it could be damaged really easily without any kind of protection what so ever! A parking lot cement car stop or even something in the road; could take it out in fell swoop! It would make me nervous!


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