# OnStar module broken



## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

The OnStar module has a fault in it, and the normally green OnStar light is now red. VagCom says MIL Fault or something. 
I know OnStar doesn't work anyway now, but should I bother getting the module replaced? Will VW even replace it? Car is still under warranty.


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## zenmoused (Nov 6, 2008)

I'd take it as a serendipity. I was driving last night and remarking on how distracting the green OnStar light is among the otherwise pleasant red lights. 
Now if I could figure out how to make mine fault..


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (zenmoused)*

Unplug it, The module is located under the hat shelf. I unplugged mine an wired a Motorola bluetooth kit to the harness. I have no apparent faults and the kit uses the factory speakers and onstar buttons. Cost up about $40.


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: (dlouie)*

$40 to mount a blutooth kit are you kidding me? someone in the forum said about 400 or so. did you forget a zero. thanks


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (Reflect)*

No, The kit was $29 plus shipping from Amazon. Add to that some misc. parts and some creativity. No data on infotainment but well integrated. Radio mutes and volume is controlled by infotainment. Audio comes through the factory speakers. Calls can be controlled through the onstar buttons.


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: (dlouie)*

Hello, since a long time ago some of us were wondering is this mod would work... but then I thought the experiment had never been completed. PanEuropean even purchased the kit.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1 
Could you please tell what the experience was, how did you wire it, any challenges, any pinout diagrams you may have used?
Thanks!


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: (dlouie)*

Do you have the part number of the item you ordered? and a picture? and maybe a write-up of what you have to do to get it working?


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## GS340 (Oct 26, 2007)

*Re: (JulianBenjamin)*

which kit did you buy from amazon?


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (GS340)*

I'm replying from my phone so it'll be short for now. It's the hf850.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: OnStar module broken (JulianBenjamin)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JulianBenjamin* »_I know OnStar doesn't work anyway now, but should I bother getting the module replaced? 

I agree with dlouie's suggestion to simply ask the technician to unplug it for you. The connector is in the avionics bay in the trunk, under the hatshelf.
If it is unplugged, then you won't be bothered by the presence of the green light when driving at night.
Michael


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## CLMims (Jul 13, 2007)

*Re: OnStar module broken (PanEuropean)*

Another option which might be a bit easier is to simply pull the fuse for the Telematics (I forget which number - 27 I think?) This also alleviates the errors tht show up in a VAG-COM scan if you unplug the OnStar; what I've discovered from all my "tinkering" with the OnStar module:
1) When I cut the GPS antenna chip out of the roof sharkfin (I replaced with a satellite radio chip), I noticed the OnStar light was RED - I also noticed errors in the VAG-COM indicating something to the effect of Telematic equipment failure (so I would assume unplugging the antenna would have the same effect)
2) When retrofitting the Touareg Bluetooth module, I somehow shorted a wire and caused the fuse to blow (I remember it was a 5W but I can't remember which number); this caused the entire OnStar module to go dark, including the backlit buttons; however there were no VAG-COM errors, the entire Address 76 (Telematics) did not show up in the scan
3) Currently, with the Touareg Bluetooth module connected to some of the OnStar wires, I have the OnStar Buttons backlit but no Center button light
I tried removing the OnStar module completely from the ceiling panel and replacing with the single lens from a 2006/Euro model, however these models have a 3rd blub socket in the area where the OnStar buttons were, and without it the darker area makes it seems that there is a bulb blown (so I put the OnStar button module back in); this also cured one of the VAG-COM errors - it can actually tell when the OnStar buttons have been removed!
There might be a way to jumper-wire the socket for the OnStar button module and override the error, and then add a 3rd bulb to the light assembly (however I don't think you can order just the 3-bulb holder for the overhead panel - you might have to order the entire thing for $$$)
My $.02....


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: (dlouie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dlouie* »_I'm replying from my phone so it'll be short for now. It's the hf850.

Thanks for your prompt response. PanEuropean had purchased an HF1000, not at HF850, but I do not see why the differences would be substantial, so your description of the install should be most useful. Thanks!
Some pictures from PanEuropean with regards to the Motorola HF1000.

*Motorola IHF-1000 Kit*








*Kit Contents*








*Remote Control in Coinholder Cup*
there is lots of room to spare
















*Controller Identification*


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (Itzmann)*

Still on my phone. The difference between the 1000 and the 850 is that the 1000 has line level outputs which makes the install simpler. It also has some enhanced features and is more expensive respectively. My 850 was $29 when everyone else was selling them for about $90. I'll elaborate more about the install later.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (CLMims)*

For NAR cars without the phone wiring, the Onstar is pretty much a standalone unit feeding audio into the infotainment unit with a mute signal. The Onstar module is the only thing connected to the CAN bus. The control head for the Onstar unit is not connected to the bus, instead, it is directly fed into the module. The functions are executed using voltage differentiation. The back light for the control head is on a separate circuit. Not to discount your findings about the Onstar behavior but I don't think there is any way VAG-COM will know that your control head is disconnected if the entire Onstar module is disconnected. If it was still connected, and the control head was disconnected from the module, then I could see it drawing a fault. Isn't removing the fuse essentially disconnecting the module. Either way, I think you'll get rid of the indicator light. By the way, I think the Onstar unit is nearly identical to the ones intalled in Caddies. They have made progress in this bluetooth swapping business.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (Itzmann)*

Ok, Here's my thoughts regarding the Motorola bluetooth kit. It's nothing more than a fancy speaker phone. The whole idea was to use the existing wiring from the defunct Onstar module located in the trunk (boot) thus relieving me of having to wire anything up front at the infotainment unit. It's basically all in the back. Connections are simple...Power (ground, positive, and switched ignition positve), mute signal wire, audio (neg. and positive), and the mic (neg. and positive). The interface is more complicated. If you choose to just use your phone as an interface or run the Motorola interface to the front of the car (I was trying to avoid this) it would be simple. The problem with running the Motorola interface to the front is that the cable isn't long enough and it would require disassembly of the interior. Not an option to me. Fortunately, the Onstar control head wiring leads all the way to the back and into the same 42 pin connector where you can tap into everything. I disassembled the Motorola interface and connected some leads to the momentary switches and then connected them to the 42 pin connector. I utilized only two of the five buttons as the other buttons such as mute and volume were useless to me. Volume is controlled through the infotainment unit. To connect the the 42 pin connector, you can use wire taps to preserve the connector (not pretty) or obtain a male connector which is hard to source. I would refrain from butchering up the harness. Mine are tapped temporarily at this time. 
Here's the thing. The HF850 comes with it's own speaker powered by the box. You cannot connect this to the infotainment inputs without blowing something. There has been some speculation that the two unused wires in the Motorola HF850 harness are the line level outputs but this is not the case. So, to bring the power down, you need some sort of low level line converter which are readily available for less than $20. I chose the open the box and install one inside for $2.00. It's nothing more than a single potentiometer (variable resistor). I brought the levels down to a safe 1V measured with my oscilloscope. The HF1000 has line level outputs so this would be unnecessary.
Oh yes, the factory telematic mic cannot be used because it is incompatible with the Motorola unit. Since the wiring is there in the overhead lighting panel, disconnect the factory mic at the light panel and connect the Motorola mic in its place. There is an empty mic housing on the passenger side perfect for this. I didn't want to see a mic popping out of the headliner.
I think any Motorola or Parrot kit can be installed in a Phaeton. The trick is to make it look factory and to uninstall the thing without anyone knowing!
I know this is not a full write up but if you guys are interested, I'll try to write one at a later time. I'll be out of town next week. Sorry for the scatter brain writing. It took a long time getting the kids to sleep and it's late.


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: (dlouie)*

Dlouie, 
So far it looks easy enough for a diy. Thanks for the info and the work put into it.
I never seen you post before so welcome if your new.
Happy modding!


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: (dlouie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dlouie* »_[...] I disassembled the Motorola interface and connected some leads to the momentary switches and then connected them to the 42 pin connector. I utilized only two of the five buttons as the other buttons such as mute and volume were useless to me [...]

Wow, great information dlouie, thank you so much for posting. I would like to install this mod. But I would need to know what leads from the IHF1000 or HF850 go to where in the 42 pin connector. 
It would be much appreciated if you could provide.
Thanks in advance.
- * -
By the way, for other Phaetonistas who may be following the thread... what the Cadillac guys have done is made the old, now unusable OnStar buttons be the interface for the Motorola HF850 bluetooth module. They, however, use a custom-made circuit board to translate the OnStar buttons to the Motorola bluetooth module (1). Fortunately, from dlouie's comments, this circuit is not necessary on Phaetons. Net/net, what the Cadillac guys have done is use their mirror-located OnStar buttons:








instead of this:








For Phaetons 2004-2005 with OnStar and without factory cell phone prep and without the ability to do so because our J523s do not have the PHONE button (2), this could be just about the very cleanest/NAR OEM-like way to use a bluetooth phone, with the advantage that the currently useless OnStar keys on the roof would be fully utilized.
Of course: no interaction with the J523 infotainment screen other than muting the music. OnStar never did, so this mod wouldn't either. 

(1) http://www.costartech.com/pb/p....html
(2) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3638411 


_Modified by Itzmann at 4:17 PM 11-30-2008_


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (JulianBenjamin)*

Two things....
1. To Julian, my Onstar is red too now. I actually thing it looks better that way. Not sure if it has to do with OnStar finally being dead or if a tech or myself knocked something loose in the trunk.
2. I want to do this phone DIY but we need more info....can someone break it down...some of these terms are over my head but it sounds simple enough. 
I got confused around these parts:
Fortunately, the Onstar control head wiring leads all the way to the back and into the same 42 pin connector where you can tap into everything. I disassembled the Motorola interface and connected some leads to the momentary switches and then connected them to the 42 pin connector. I utilized only two of the five buttons as the other buttons such as mute and volume were useless to me. Volume is controlled through the infotainment unit. To connect the the 42 pin connector, you can use wire taps to preserve the connector (not pretty) or obtain a male connector which is hard to source. I would refrain from butchering up the harness. Mine are tapped temporarily at this time. 
Here's the thing. The HF850 comes with it's own speaker powered by the box. You cannot connect this to the infotainment inputs without blowing something. There has been some speculation that the two unused wires in the Motorola HF850 harness are the line level outputs but this is not the case. So, to bring the power down, you need some sort of low level line converter which are readily available for less than $20. I chose the open the box and install one inside for $2.00. It's nothing more than a single potentiometer (variable resistor). I brought the levels down to a safe 1V measured with my oscilloscope. The HF1000 has line level outputs so this would be unnecessary.

What do you mean by you disabled the Motorola interface and connected some leads? 
And the entire part about the Motorola speaker and bringing it down threw me off. Is that part necessary? Can we just do away with the Motorola speaker? 


_Modified by derrickonline at 10:48 AM 12-2-2008_


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (derrickonline)*

Sorry, I'm out of town and don't have my files to give you guys the pin outs for the 42 pin connector. 
To clarify, the hf850 does not have line level outputs. The outputs on this unit are intended to drive a speaker. You cannot feed this directly into the infotainment. Never feed anythning but line level signals into the infotainment. If you were to use another bluetooth kit with verified line level outputs, you should be able to connect it directly.
As for the interface, I wired the Onstar buttons to the interface and left the interface in the trunk. Depending on the kit purchased, having an interface up front could be useless. Take for example, if a parrot ck3000 was used, I think it can be entirerly voice activated. Pairing should be automatic when you turn on the ignition. Again, you can leave the interface in the trunk and configure it there only for the first time or when you need to. I think I'm going to try that unit also. The hf850 has no voice activation.


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: OnStar module broken (dlouie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dlouie* »_Sorry, I'm out of town and don't have my files to give you guys the pin outs for the 42 pin connector

dlouie, it sounds like you have two "customers"! Derrickonline and myself want to implement this mod you have pioneered. However, it sounds like we are much less technically able than you. I for instance would have a hard time popping the case on the HF850 and installing resistors or attenuators or what have you to get a line-level output. On the other hand, I for one could just buy an IHF1000 and use the line-level sound output (assuming there is one).
So... it would be nice if, when you get a chance, perhaps you could provide pinouts, photos, etc.
Be well,


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: OnStar module broken (Itzmann)*

Here's a detailed description of the OnStar pinouts for VW and Audi products from 2002 onwards. There are a few notes indicating which pins are unique to VW and which are unique to Audi.
The 42 pin connector being discussed is the connector on the OnStar controller.
I trust this will keep everyone busy for a while...








Michael

*On-Star Pinouts*


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (PanEuropean)*

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is all these stuff about resistors and line out...is that necessary?
I want the ability to control phone using the OnStar (at least hang up and pickup) and radio muted when incoming call rings in, and of course handsfreek speaking.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (derrickonline)*

The functionality you are looking can be achieved with the HF850 but I'm not sure it's the best unit to use because after using it for a few short period of time, the module froze up. I had to reboot the module to get it working again. This unit could be just a little flakey with my particular phone but it is functional! I would like to try a parrot module at a later time.
Now to answer your questions...It is absolutely required to use the resistors or a low level line converter to connect up to the infotainment when using the HF850 or any module that does not have line outputs! Do not connect leads intended for driving speakers to the infotainment! If the module you intend to use has line level outputs then you don't need the resistors or converter.
Now for the connections at the 42 pin connector:
Function: Terminal# => HF850 Connection
Low Level Audio Input Positive: 10 => Converted Speaker Positive.
Mic Positive: 12 => Mic Positive (note; factory mic is not compatible)
Ignition Voltage Supply Positive: 14 => Green
Ground: 18 or 19 => Black
Low Level Audio Input Negative: 31 => Converted Speaker Negative.
Mic Negative: 33 => Mic Negative (note; factory mic is not compatible)
Signal for Radio Muting: 34 => Orange
Constant Voltage Supply: 39 or 40 => Red
Onstar Input: 35 and 36 are the terminals for the interface.
Remember, These connections are specifically for the HF850. Connections to other modules are probably similar but should be researched.
Hope this helps.


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (dlouie)*

Louie thank you.
Are you willing to elaborate on the process of working with a line converter. Is that a tool? Or a process? If it's a tool which do you recommend?
PS: I've had a Parrot CK3100 in my Benz and Acura, worked great! But there is a separate screen that it comes with.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: OnStar module broken (derrickonline)*

I am more than willing to help you guys. You can look at it like connecting your home audio components together. Line out => Line in. You would never connect speaker wires directly into any input. Follow the link and this may clarify your questions: http://www.termpro.com/articles/faders.html
Another option may be to purchase one of these or something like it:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1...=2001
Again, this may be a moot point because if the particular bluetooth kit you purchase has an audio line out, a converter is not necessary. It just so happened that the HF850 doesn't have a line out. It only has an output to drive speakers thus requiring me to install a converter. The signal you are trying to feed into the infotainment doesn't drive the Phaeton's speakers. You are trying to feed a low level signal into the infotainment unit that in turn feeds into the Phaeton's amplifier that then drives the Phaeton's speakers. The HF 850 may not be the best unit to use but it was $30 and is functional to the point where is mimics Onstar phone functionality. Take for example, according to the manuals, the Parrot CK3100 or the Motorola IHF1000 do have line outs so a converter is not necessary. I do not believe the Parrot CK3000 has the line outs so a converter would be required.


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: OnStar module broken (dlouie)*

Excellent! Thank you for the pinouts. Great holiday project. Can you share some pics, hopefully with closeups of the temporary wiring splices?
Thanks again,


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## phaetonenvy (Jun 2, 2006)

*Re: OnStar module broken (Itzmann)*

hey! 
dlouie
i'd really appreciate your help with the hf850 controller.
which wires do i connect to onstar inputs 35 and 36?

i have everything else done.
thanks


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

I had to take out my install because I had some warranty work done on the conduit in the trunk. I didn't want them asking questions. Anyways. I have a deadline here at work and may get to documenting my install in about a week. Sorry it's taking so long. Oh yes. about the onstar interface. It appears that there is more electronics in the onstar interface which is causing the BT module to drop calls. I'll sort out that later but you should be able to get the module to work without it for now. Also, make sure you do not use the factory onstar mike with this particular module as it will not work. I'll document that later too.


_Modified by dlouie at 8:22 AM 2-27-2009_


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## phaetonenvy (Jun 2, 2006)

Thanks for the update...
I'll put off the install until I hear more.


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: (phaetonenvy)*

I just picked up the IHF1000 on Ebay for $104. I am eager to get it installed & use the voice command features and the line level outputs. 
Dlouie, did you splice the wires leading to the the green & red buttons on the Motorola's "pod" to the onstar buttons? It seems that this would eliminate the need for the Motorola Interface "pod" entirely.
Thanks,
George


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (oldham4)*

I'm not sure but I believe that your IHF1000 has the line level outputs but you must verify. As for Motorola's interface, it is installed but I left it hidden in the trunk. I did splice the wires from the interface to the Onstar buttons at the connector in the trunk. The BTU was operational but I was occasionally dropping some calls. I thought it was the phone but this didn't happen in my Mercedes so digging a little deeper revealed that the Onstar buttons have more electronics in them than just simple switches and resistors (all I needed was two buttons). Before I got around to modifying the Onstar switch, I had to remove the install because I was getting some warranty work done for the conduit leading to the trunk lid. I didn't want them asking questions. This is where it's at now...still out of the car which may be good thing for you guys because it'll give me a chance to document it for you. I have very limited spare time but I'll do the best I can. You should be able to get your's working even without the Onstar buttons hooked up.


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: (dlouie)*

Thanks. I suspected that the onstar buttons might not be entirely compatible. If nothing else, I can initiate calls from the phone, but I really would like to take advantage of the voice dial features. 
And yes, the IHF1000 does have line levevl outputs.
I think that I have the concept, so I will be sure to document what I do as well.


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: (dlouie)*

I have been working on this project off-and-on today. At one point I got the Bluetooth Mudule to come through the stereo speakers. This was achieved with little effort other that tapping into the existing power and speaker wires of the Onstar harness. I was surprised to learn that the Onstar harness must be connected to the Onstar module in order for the speakers to work. Nonetheless, it was nice to hear it all work. I had the radio on, then it muted & switched to the outgoing call that I was making. However, the microphone was in the trunk, so I could not do anything more than listen. 
My last few hours have been spent troubleshooting why the unit won't turn on now that I have tried to run the microphone through the prewired green & black wires that lead to the lights in the front seat. I tried to use the existing microphone because it looks fundamentally the same as the guts of the Motorola microphone. It didn't work, so I tried to splice the Motorola microphone. It won't work either. Now, I can't get the unit to turn on. 
I am hoping that I am simply tired & can't reason, so I closed the hat shelf & will try again next weekend. Dlouie (I'm not sure of your first name), if you have any suggestions, I would love to get your perspective.















Thanks,
George


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## Itzmann (Jan 16, 2006)

*Re: (oldham4)*

Oldham4, I'm rooting for you, get some rest and best of luck when you reattempt with a fresh start! If you were in the neighborhood, you'd be getting more than my moral support!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: (dlouie)*

dlouie,
I am working my way through this bluetooth mod, & I would appreciate any guidance that you can provide. If you are willing to talk via a phone call, please let me know how to contact you. I am close to a final solution & write-up....I can feel it.
Thanks,
George


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

The existing onstar module mic cannot be used. What I did was use the existing wiring for the onstar mic so I did not have to run new wiring all the way to the front. I removed the mic module from the overhead and replaced it with the motorola mic. It looks totally stock. Now that work has slowed down a bit, I can start resolving the onstar buttons.


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (oldham4)*

The onstar module does not have to be connected to the harness to work. Mine is completely disconnected. Oldham, did you connect the mute wire?


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## oldham4 (Apr 27, 2008)

*Re: (dlouie)*

*Finally! *I got it to work. I have the IHF100 Bluetooth module connected and working via the Onstar wiring harness. 
My problem was that I was not getting adequate contact between the onstar harness wires & the bluetooth kit harness wires because I was trying to use T splice connectors. They were made for different guage wires, so I finally yanked the leads from the Onstar harness, stripped the ends & used end-to-end connectors to crimp/splice the appropriate Onstar wires to the Bluetooth kit wires.

Like dlouie, I have placed the microphone in the front driver-side microphone bay that was previously used for the onstar mic. There is a dedicated, shielded cable that runs to the harness that you can use to do this.
Now all I need to do is get the Motorola UIM (user interface module) installed in the front of the car so that I can press the center button & utilize the integrated speech recognition system to either dial a number by speaking the number or by the speed dial feature (10 number memory). An alternate solution would be for me to utilize the Onstar buttons. Damon, I think that you were able to accomplish this. Does anyone have any idea how to get the wiring diagram for the Motorola UIM? The harness has 7 wires & there are 5 buttons. If I can figure this part out, perhaps I can make use of the Onstar Keypad in the dome light.
I must say that even without the UIM in the front cabin, this solves the last of the two "integration" shortcomings that I found when I was weighing my options last year between the older Phaeton and newer cars. Now, with the Dice iPhone/iPod kit, & the Motorola Bluetooth kit installed, I can listen to music on my iPhone then seemlessly take calls when they come in. The iPhone pauses the music when the call comes in, the IHIF1000 speaks the incoming number over the stereo, I can then accept or deny the call via the iPhone & if I accept the call, it continues over the Stereo. Beautiful to say the least.
I took some wiring pics with my iPhone, so if someone would be so kind as to coach me on how to upload them, I will be happy to post with a more detailed process of how to complete this mod yourself.
Have a great weekend!
George


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (oldham4)*

George, I'm glad you got your unit functioning. I finally had a chance to reinstall my bluetooth unit and snapped a few images for you guys. 
The guts of the bluetooth unit. Notice the variable resistor that brings the signal level down to line level.








Vertical pin headers used to connect to Phaeton Onstar harness.








Connected to harness








Overall view of the telematics shelf








Sooner or later, I'll get to the Onstar interface which is the next goal. The trick is to make this installation as clean a possible and reversible without any evidence of butchering. I wish I could source a real male connector for the harness but this seems to be a decent alternative for now.
Damon 


_Modified by dlouie at 2:41 AM 4-19-2009_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (oldham4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *oldham4* »_An alternate solution would be for me to utilize the Onstar buttons. 

Hi George:
Congratulations on your progress so far.
You won't be able to use the OnStar buttons, because they are resistance switches, not standard SPST switches. In other words, they are all on one single wire circuit, each button generates a different level of resistance when pressed.
Michael


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

That's right Michael, but there is more to the Onstar interface than the schematics suggests. I took the switch appart. My plan is to bypass the circuitry from within the switch. If my memory in correct, there are three wires that come from the switch, not counting the power to the leds, which should enable us to use at least two functions on the Motorola interface using the existing wiring. The other option would be to replace the circuit board with another one and use the housing. 
Damon


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## VWXII (Nov 4, 2010)

Has anyone tried the Bluestar kit from Costar?

http://costartech.com/pb/products/bluestar.html

This is a GM-centric solution to the issue that could work on the Phaeton. Or is the installation so specialized for GM car infotainment equivalents as to render it useless for us? 

It does look clean.


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## Rowayton (May 29, 2004)

If you go to Costar's site using the provided link and click make of vehicle Volkswagen is not one of the makes listed that the kit supports. There must be a reason as I'm sure Costar would like to sell as many kits as possible. If someone is clever enough or ambitious enough to try and modify one for use in a VW product and messes everything up the financial loss for the kit as well as potential problems with the cars entertainment system will not be inexpensive.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the link.
Ron


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

Before venturing into any BT mods, check compatibility with your phone. My mod on the Phaeton in now useless as with all the other BT modulles on other cars I own. Apparently my new HTC Evo does not have the required BT profile and the issue extends across to many factory and aftetmarket modules. Beware if you have Android.

Damon


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*RE: Costar's Bluestar*

I'm gonna email him. It looks like it's a small company, might even be a couple of guys, and they might not have a phaeton to test on. Since they are right here in Amityville and I work in Farmingdale (one town over), I'll check if they've ever tested on a Phaeton, and if not, would it be ok to bring mine over there and test it out to see if it works.

Will let you know what they say.


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*reply from Costar*

This is what I got from Chris at Costar:



> Hi Julian,
> The phaeton is a different animal completely. We might be able to rig it in to work somehow, but it will certainly not be plug and play.
> As an engineer, I can provide you with some insight into how it needs to be connected to work properly. If you can get some info on the phaeton wiring, I’ll try and help out. I did look into this way back, but it never went anywhere.
> Thanks for your interest.
> -Chris


Seems like he's looked into it, so I'm going to check what happenned to make it fall through.


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## Victor R (Jan 7, 2010)

This system was looked into in a prior thread: http://forums.kilometermagazine.com...sing-OnStar-Hands-Free-mic&highlight=Bluestar

At the time, I got the following response from Joe Zizzadoro from technical support: "The BlueSTAR will not work in a VW. The communications (CAN bus) is very different from GM vehicles, and the connectors are also not the same."

Not being willing to give up so readily, I found another product called "Argos" http://www.onstarbluetooth.net/. I recently e-mailed them and got a response from Jim Cessna who is looking into this at the present. I am somewhat encouraged that the Argos unit can be adapted to "exotics" according to their website - BMW, Mercedes, and Jaguar. I wonder if they consider our Phaetons exotic enough?


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## VWXII (Nov 4, 2010)

*CoStar reply*

Chris from CoStar sent me this information on the adaptation of BlueStar into the OnStar. I sent him a drawing from Bentley's wiring schematic.

Hi John,
I can’t really make out the details in this drawing. But here are things I need to know to make it work with BlueSTAR:

1. Keypad interface. Standard onstar has three buttons, connected into one wire. Buttons switch different resistors to change voltage on pin.
2.	Radio interface. GM uses data commands to mute radio. I think Audi (and maybe VW) have mute input. This is good, since we can use BlueSTAR mute output and not have to worry about sniffing data commands.
3.	Audio interface. Mic inputs and speaker output. Make sure levels are appropriate for BlueSTAR.
4.	Power, If we can tap into switched power this would be best. Currently BLueSTAR senses data bus activity for power and sleep modes.
5.	Features: ie. Steering wheel control, and callerid display. Those will be tougher to implement depending on how they are wired.

Let me know what you think about this.


-Chris


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## dlouie (Oct 31, 2008)

This solution provides nothing more than the Motorola units shown above. One needs needs to verify that the bluetooth profiles are compatible before doing any install. Not all phones are the same.


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