# Anyone done rear wheel bearings?



## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

This will be my first on the TT. I've done them on humvees and a few cars. I'm trying to figure out what I'm hearing coming from the passengers side rear. I hear a vibration when I decelerate. I also need new rear rotors and pads as well. I already have the replacements, just haven't had the time. How bad is the job on a TT? Should be pretty straight forward.. right?


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Did mine when control arms cracked a few years back and I rebuilt the entire rear end. Did both bearings as precaution. 

I pulled entire rear trailing arms to do mine however with the right hand tool you can do it without that. 

Have to pull everything back to hub and drop driveshafts in either situation. 

Joe


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> This will be my first on the TT. I've done them on humvees and a few cars. I'm trying to figure out what I'm hearing coming from the passengers side rear. I hear a vibration when I decelerate. I also need new rear rotors and pads as well. I already have the replacements, just haven't had the time. How bad is the job on a TT? Should be pretty straight forward.. right?


 If you only hear a vibration when you brake odds are you have a warped rotor I think.

I bought and used the harbor freight tool on the rear wheel bearing of my car. It's a workout but you can do it all on the car. I bought all four wheel bearings because I only needed one and I believe in overkill preventive maintenance. Lets just say the other three are sitting on my desk. :facepalm:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

If only under braking its not the bearing. Bearing noises get worse when you turn to the opposite side. Its a PITA to change with the arm still on the car, so I took it off and used a hydraulic press.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Maybe I didnt make sense in my post. I hear it when I let off of the gas (coasting), not during braking. I also hear a binding when Im turning into a spot or my garage. I DO need new rotors (they are toast). I can rent the tool from Autozone for $100.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Maybe I didnt make sense in my post. I hear it when I let off of the gas (coasting), not during braking. I also hear a binding when Im turning into a spot or my garage. I DO need new rotors (they are toast). I can rent the tool from Autozone for $100.


 I think I bought it from Harbor Freight for around $100. 

The job isn't that bad. If you have a compressor borrow a massive 3/4" impact gun. Makes the job A LOT EASIER. Otherwise you need breaker bars, strength, time, beer.

I had made a DIY in my first build thread that was black holed. I can try and dig up the photos later for ya to give you an idea of the work ahead.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

DougLoBue said:


> I think I bought it from Harbor Freight for around $100.
> 
> The job isn't that bad. If you have a compressor borrow a massive 3/4" impact gun. Makes the job A LOT EASIER. Otherwise you need breaker bars, strength, time, beer.
> 
> I had made a DIY in my first build thread that was black holed. I can try and dig up the photos later for ya to give you an idea of the work ahead.


 Thanks Doug:beer:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Maybe I didnt make sense in my post. I hear it when I let off of the gas (coasting), not during braking. I also hear a binding when Im turning into a spot or my garage. I DO need new rotors (they are toast). I can rent the tool from Autozone for $100.


 When I first got my 180Q, I had what I thought was rear diff noise. It wasn't loud at first, and only audible during decel/coasting. I changed rear diff fluid as a precaution since I assumed it still had factory fluid in it, and that didn't help. It slowly got louder and louder until I realized it was exaggerated during pretty hard cornering. Think emergency lane change maneuvers. When I did that, it was obvious it was on one side. I also couldn't feel any play with the rear wheel off the ground by trying to move the wheel at 12 and 6 and then 3 and 9, but when I looked at the bearing from the inside of the hub once the axle was out, you could see a small amount of fluid coming out of the bearing, aka it was toast. 

I had a BMW version of the on the car tool to change it, but couldn't fit it around the brake shield, which you can't remove without removing the hub, so I went ahead and removed the whole arm. You can take the arm off and take it to a shop to have the bearing pressed in and out pretty quickly and inexpensively.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> When I first got my 180Q, I had what I thought was rear diff noise. It wasn't loud at first, and only audible during decel/coasting. I changed rear diff fluid as a precaution since I assumed it still had factory fluid in it, and that didn't help. It slowly got louder and louder until I realized it was exaggerated during pretty hard cornering. Think emergency lane change maneuvers. When I did that, it was obvious it was on one side. I also couldn't feel any play with the rear wheel off the ground by trying to move the wheel at 12 and 6 and then 3 and 9, but when I looked at the bearing from the inside of the hub once the axle was out, you could see a small amount of fluid coming out of the bearing, aka it was toast.
> 
> I had a BMW version of the on the car tool to change it, but couldn't fit it around the brake shield, which you can't remove without removing the hub, so I went ahead and removed the whole arm. You can take the arm off and take it to a shop to have the bearing pressed in and out pretty quickly and inexpensively.


 Yeah, Ill probably have to take it to a shop to press them out/in. Thanks Adam


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

20v master said:


> I had a BMW version of the on the car tool to change it, but couldn't fit it around the brake shield, which you can't remove without removing the hub, so I went ahead and removed the whole arm. You can take the arm off and take it to a shop to have the bearing pressed in and out pretty quickly and inexpensively.


 You can remove the rear brake shield without removing the hub. My car is proof of that as I forgot to put it back on after doing this job!


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

DougLoBue said:


> You can remove the rear brake shield without removing the hub. My car is proof of that as I forgot to put it back on after doing this job!


 Not sure how, as the the three bolts that hold it on are too long to get out since the hub lip is in the way, unless you used shorter bolts. Might be different on the 225's, this was on my 180Q with the smaller rear brakes. 



warranty225cpe said:


> Yeah, Ill probably have to take it to a shop to press them out/in. Thanks Adam


 One more thing, don't unbolt the four bolts that hold the trailing arm bracket to the body. Only undo the one bolt that holds the arm to that bracket. That way you won't need an alignment after you reinstall. :thumbup:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

One thing to check. There is a big problem in the bearing industry right now. Lack of grease in bearings. This affects all of the manufacturers including big names like Timken, SKF, NTN, F-A-G and many others. 

Everything is outsourced to Asian countries these days and the plants have been scrimping on bearing grease for the last few years. This info direct from my wholesaler who sells Millions of dollars in parts per year, and from what I've seen from personal experience. 

I've found brand new SKF and NTN sealed bearings with practically no grease in them. 

Solution is to pop the grease shield off of the sealed bearing and hand pack it with a good SYNTHETIC wheel bearing grease. I use Amsoil.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Chickenman35 said:


> One thing to check. There is a big problem in the bearing industry right now. Lack of grease in bearings. This affects all of the manufacturers including big names like Timken, SKF, NTN, *** and many others.
> 
> Everything is outsourced to Asian countries these days and the plants have been scrimping on bearing grease for the last few years. This info direct from my wholesaler who sells Millions of dollars in parts per year, and from what I've seen from personal experience.
> 
> ...


 When I worked heavy equipment, we used to find this all the time. The solution became ALWAYS packing bearings. Even if they had grease in them.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Just got a call from the shop. They say they're gonna have to pull the rear A-arm out completely and disconnect my brake lines... :what:

Is this right?


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

warranty225cpe said:


> Just got a call from the shop. They say they're gonna have to pull the rear A-arm out completely and disconnect my brake lines... :what:
> 
> Is this right?


The brake hardline clips into little brackets all along the arm. You don't want the caliper hanging by the hardline because it will bend/break/leak. So yes, if they don't have the correct tool to change the bearing with the trailing arm (it's not really an A arm) still on the car, you have to disconnect the brake line from the caliper to remove the arm. It's not a big deal other than having to bleed the rear brakes when the job is done.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

20v master said:


> The brake hardline clips into little brackets all along the arm. You don't want the caliper hanging by the hardline because it will bend/break/leak. So yes, if they don't have the correct tool to change the bearing with the trailing arm (it's not really an A arm) still on the car, you have to disconnect the brake line from the caliper to remove the arm. It's not a big deal other than having to bleed the rear brakes when the job is done.


They ended up figuring it out. I refered to it as an a-arm because I didn't want to confuse people into thinking I was talking about the control arm (LCA). I realize its not an A-arm. Thanks


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