# Vacuum pump delete



## Russellmaraist (Aug 16, 2013)

I have a leaking vacuum pump and learned I can delete it. I just have to run the brake booster to the intake manifold. This is where I am stumped. Do I have to modify the manifold to do this? And is there anything else that need to be done? Anyone have pics of one they've done and advice?


Be fun, have safe!


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

Do you have the stock manifold? Or aftermarket?
I just did this exact modification two weeks ago. I have the c2 sri, I just tapped into one of the available vacuum taps on the mani using a longer vacuum line and a barbed hose fitting. 
Using the stock mani you will have to drill and tap a hose fitting into the plastic. Keep in mind when you remove the vacuum pump you will leak some extra oil. So I would recommend having a quart nearby to top off after the modification.


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## Russellmaraist (Aug 16, 2013)

I have a stock manifold. Is there any certain place that's best to put the line? I also read that it increases power? Have you noticed a difference since your mod? Thanks for the info!


Be fun, have safe!


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

Glad to help out.

Any place you can find that is flat is were I would recommend. The vacuum will be the same anywhere in the mani. There is a small power increase due to the fat that the vacuum pump in run directly off the cams. The power gain is maybe 2 hp, you won't notice the gain. I've noticed that there is a slightly faster acceleration and the brakes have a slightly tighter feel, maybe 1 or 2 cm less on the brake for the stopping power to be applied. 
Since you are tapping into the stock mani. I recommend taking it off the engine so you can clean out any residue from the plastic shavings so your engine doesn't eat them. 
I removed the old hose too, I got a 1/8 inch width hose and ran it from where the old one connects on the booster to the vacuum tap and used ring clamps to help hold it in place.

All you need as far as getting access to the area goes is to remove the engine cover and your air intake (stock or aftermarket). I removed the battery just to have more room and leverage for my socket set. When you pull the pump off, it will want to stay there, pull firmly but don't put a lot of torque on it when you pulling it out. I shook it a little to loosen it up. I had to use an extension on my socket to get to the bolts holding the pump on (8 inch I think).

Hope this helps you out.


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## Russellmaraist (Aug 16, 2013)

Thank you so much! I've been looking all over the internet to figure this out. The stealership wanted to charge me $600 to replace the pump. Then I saw about the delete on the USP site but was unsure how in depth it would be. Sounds fairly easy. Couple more ques. What size hose fitting did you go with? 1/8th? Does the hose fitting need a certain I.D.?


Be fun, have safe!


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

As long as the fitting matches the hose you use. The hose and fitting I used where both 1/8 inch inner diameter. It's roughly the same size as the factory hose.


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

AtelC said:


> As long as the fitting matches the hose you use. The hose and fitting I used where both 1/8 inch inner diameter. It's roughly the same size as the factory hose.


I'm looking to do this in the next couple weeks if it's not to much to ask can you please post a pic of where you ran the hose to the c2 mani or the fitting you used for it so I know what im looking for.


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

I will get picture of my setup tomorrow after class. 
But, I used something like this, below. (I didn't use this exact fitting as I had no idea as to what the threading of the taps on the c2 SRI were. If I can find that info I'll post that too.)
http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-8-an-o-ring-boss-to-5-16-hose-barb-fitting


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

Thank you I greatly appreciate it. I was just gonna replace the pump till I seen this post. I would much rather delete it.


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## Russellmaraist (Aug 16, 2013)

Thanks again! Ordering my deletion kit this weekend


Be fun, have safe!


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

My new hose line run straight into the booster, where the old hose used to be. It will be very hard to get it on there, but once you do, you will know that the hose is secure.
And I did have to use a blade to cut alone the length of the old hose to get that one off the booster.








The brass fitting is my vacuum tap on my c2 sri.


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

Awesome! Thank you definitely gonna have to do this. And I'm assuming no cel?


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

Haven't thrown a CEL yet.


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

I was told you should use a mk4 check valve for this setup did you use one?


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

I was recommended the same thing, however I didn't use one and I haven't run into an issue.


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

Cool, thanks for all the help dude


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## AtelC (Sep 1, 2011)

Any luck on the projects?


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

Got the stuff for the project just waiting for a warm enough day to do it. Working with numb hands is a no go lol.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

I will do mine this week end, I've cut myself a plate from 5/16 T6 aluminium with a plasma cutter. I will use two oem gasket with a little bit of silicone. I want to know if the USP unit is flat (the side that is toward the engine) ??

I just have to find the right spot on the oem intake manifold to put the vacuum fitting. I will let you know where I put after the job's done 

Cheers


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

Ok guys I finally did it wednesday after my workday, I will try to post picture next day. The port to plug your vacum line is located at right side (passenger side) of the intake and lower.
my car run smoother I doesnt think my vacuum pump was the problem but in fact it look like it was ! I will wait a couple of day just to make sure everything is fine. My car was also a lot quieter. after a 5-6 min. warm up nd a 15 min. drive with a couple of full throttle a acceleration it was way quieter. I was thinking m timing chain was the problem but it's seem that it was the pump. I will wait to confirm that 

its an easy upgrade !!

Cheers


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

Definitely tackling this next week. What size socket do i need to remove the bolts from the pump?


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

Torx T-30, don't be afraid to remove the battery,battery tray and onu shift lever. Very easy to do put transmission in neutral with the shifter and never touch it again.Diaasemble th lever that on your way by removing the two clips (when you reassemble grease those pin).

To remove the hose from brake booster you'l have to cut the hose on the fitting becaue it's a plastic hose. Spray some lube on the booster fitting and a little bit inside your new hose , it will be more easy to insert.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

Near the most forward punp bolt you also have a small bracket that is attach to the pump and holding this bracket is a 6mm bolt so you"ll need a 10mm socket


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## A1an (Mar 22, 2007)

Alpha27 said:


> I will do mine this week end, I've cut myself a plate from 5/16 T6 aluminium with a plasma cutter. I will use two oem gasket with a little bit of silicone. I want to know if the USP unit is flat (the side that is toward the engine) ??
> 
> I just have to find the right spot on the oem intake manifold to put the vacuum fitting. I will let you know where I put after the job's done
> 
> Cheers


Why two gaskets and silicone? The only thing the silicone will be good for is trying to keep the doubled metal gasket from leaking terribly. Just use one.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

I finally just use one gasket, with silicone ! No leak since wednesday


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## hazard520 (Feb 2, 2013)

So you guys used 1/8 vacuum hose? Cause the 1/8 hose I got the opening looks really small.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

hazard520 said:


> So you guys used 1/8 vacuum hose? Cause the 1/8 hose I got the opening looks really small.


No, I've use 3/8 fuel line and it's really tight on the booster fitting, try to find 3/8 vacuum line they are more soft and they strech a little bit more. the booster fitting is 3/8 (a bit more in fact,probably metric) and the port on the intake is 5/16


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## Rabbidrabbitt (Mar 21, 2011)

​I need to do this.


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## NothingLasts1987 (Sep 23, 2013)

Alpha27 said:


> Ok guys I finally did it wednesday after my workday, I will try to post picture next day. The port to plug your vacum line is located at right side (passenger side) of the intake and lower.
> my car run smoother I doesnt think my vacuum pump was the problem but in fact it look like it was ! I will wait a couple of day just to make sure everything is fine. My car was also a lot quieter. after a 5-6 min. warm up nd a 15 min. drive with a couple of full throttle a acceleration it was way quieter. I was thinking m timing chain was the problem but it's seem that it was the pump. I will wait to confirm that
> 
> its an easy upgrade !!
> ...


Are you talking about on the stock manifold? I've been experiencing a growing leak from my vacuum pump and would rather just delete it. I wish someone sold a kit with the parts and tubing needed.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

NothingLasts1987 said:


> Are you talking about on the stock manifold? I've been experiencing a growing leak from my vacuum pump and would rather just delete it. I wish someone sold a kit with the parts and tubing needed.


Integrated Engineering make a kit


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## NothingLasts1987 (Sep 23, 2013)

Alpha27 said:


> Integrated Engineering make a kit


When I look on their site, I just see the backing plate. It doesn't come with the tubing or pieces to attach to the manifold. I know they are probably simple to piece together but I'd prefer to buy a premaid kit with tubes that will hold up under engine heat and the pressure from the vacuum.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

tubes that will hold up under engine heat and the pressure from the vacuum.[/QUOTE]

"Pressure from the vacuum" ??????? Do you understand what is vacuum ?


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## NothingLasts1987 (Sep 23, 2013)

Alpha27 said:


> tubes that will hold up under engine heat and the pressure from the vacuum.
> 
> "Pressure from the vacuum" ??????? Do you understand what is vacuum ?


Excuse my ignorance, but isn't it just suction? I should have said negative pressure. I don't want the tube collapsing.


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

NothingLasts1987 said:


> Excuse my arrogance, but isn't it just suction? I should have said negative pressure. I don't want the tube collapsing.


Yeah, you're right, but im pretty that any vacuum line will hold it


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## poonpower (Jun 6, 2012)

Any instructions on how to tap the intake manifold? Never tapped anything before, but i do know I gotta drill then tap with a thread equal to the new fitting. What about sealing it?


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## Alpha27 (Jul 23, 2013)

poonpower said:


> Any instructions on how to tap the intake manifold? Never tapped anything before, but i do know I gotta drill then tap with a thread equal to the new fitting. What about sealing it?


You doesn't have to make any thread. whe you facing your engine on your left side of the engine you'll see a vacuum port with a hose plug it into. make a "tee" there. those line seem to go to the back of the car but what's matter is your vacuum source on the intake manifold


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## spillers1 (Dec 18, 2012)

*Thorn in my side*

I've been trying for a year to fix a leaking vacuum pump- I replaced the metal gasket but it's the gasket for the outer cover of the pump that's leaking. I tried fixing it but now that I found this thread I'm just going to delete it all together. Thanks for all the info!


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## NothingLasts1987 (Sep 23, 2013)

I got around to deleting my vacuum pump about a week ago. I used a little over 3 feet of 5/16th inner diameter fuel line from autozone and some hose clamps. I ran it to the vacuum line on the passenger side of the stock manifold. It cleared up most of my oil leak but now I need to track down a different leak :banghead: No CEL thrown for the set up I have, the engine does seem smoother and brake pedal a bit stiffer.


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## hsproyaya (Jan 4, 2012)

Any negative effects of this? Does it effect emissions at all?


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## vr6-kamil (Sep 14, 2008)

NothingLasts1987 said:


> I got around to deleting my vacuum pump about a week ago. I used a little over 3 feet of 5/16th inner diameter fuel line from autozone and some hose clamps. I ran it to the vacuum line on the passenger side of the stock manifold. It cleared up most of my oil leak but now I need to track down a different leak :banghead: No CEL thrown for the set up I have, the engine does seem smoother and brake pedal a bit stiffer.


Could you show a picture of your setup. Mainly where in the manifold did you reroute the booster line? Any adapters or T fittings used to do it?


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## EcuaDUBinFL (Feb 12, 2008)

Any difference on the brakes? Less pressure or braking power?


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## AHouseOnFire (Nov 20, 2012)

EcuaDUBinFL said:


> Any difference on the brakes? Less pressure or braking power?


Whoa, good use of the forum search haha.. I'm installing the USP Motorsports delete tomorrow.. I'll throw up some photos and let you know how the brakes and power is. :thumbup:


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

EcuaDUBinFL said:


> Any difference on the brakes? Less pressure or braking power?


nope breaking is same for me. i went with usp kit for the hoses. sold the vacuum delete plate. then got the integrated engineering plate. also replaced my pcv valve at that time. cars been fine. same as well i replaced the actual pump 40,000 ago. only difference this wont fail again like pump did on me.


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## Dubsport Inc (Oct 12, 2002)

Same here... had the USP kit installed for a couple of months now and no difference in braking!


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## EcuaDUBinFL (Feb 12, 2008)

Just had it installed last week. Works great. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AHouseOnFire (Nov 20, 2012)

EcuaDUBinFL said:


> Just had it installed last week. Works great.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ditto! The engine sounds AMAZING now.. braking is better etc., Best $100 spent so far on the ol' girl.


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

AHouseOnFire said:


> Ditto! The engine sounds AMAZING now.. braking is better etc., Best $100 spent so far on the ol' girl.


Not for nothing but has no effect on how engine sounds. 

Sent from my 0x1 Note 4...... I love tep


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## disphunktion (May 18, 2002)

AtelC said:


> The brass fitting is my vacuum tap on my c2 sri.


I have the same manifold. What plug size did you use ? Obviously is 3/8 Barb but the npt is 3/8 also ?


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

Sounds to me that you have a air leak. The usp kit is crap. The only thing worth anything in the kit is the spulen hoses. Throw the garbage plate away and buy a i.e one. What I did. Actually recesses into Blivk like original pump. Unlike spulens that's just flat

Sent from my 0x1 Note 4...... I love tep


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ the spulen plate looked too thin.

i ordered the IE block off because it it has better design and seemingly better integrity. it should arrive before the weekend. i was bummed at first that it didn't come with any hoses.

i almost ordered the spulen kit because of the PCV hose that is already molded for the engine. i was at the point of almost ordering both kits and just trashing the spulen plate. after thinking about it for a few minutes. i realized that pcv valve could malfunction and supply a nice stream of oil residue into my brake booster. maybe i'm being paranoid, but i see how much oil gets in the 2.5L intake manifold from said pcv hose. 

the N80 valve vacuum line looks to be the perfect candidate to tie into. i got some 5/16" ID fuel line, and a 5/16" tee. i then split and removed the hard plastic line from the brake booster nipple and the 5/16" line will fit perfectly on this. it will be a straight shot that will be a clean solution.

i'll post some photos of the install when it happens.



TaroMK6 said:


> hey guys I need help, just did the 2.5l spulen brake pump delete and now my engine sounds horrible and has a rough idle/shudder, very disappointing to think that I probably have to go back to stock.


check your hose connections. it doesn't take much of a vacuum leak to cause a bad idle.

in regards to the video you posted, i can hear a hiss at ~5 seconds in that sounds just like a vacuum leak.

any check engine light?


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

i don't have my IE plate yet. but here are some photos of what i've done for the hose routing.

this is the universal tee that i used:









a nice place to fit:









fit without the clamps:









this looks like it will work just fine.

IE plate: $73.00 (shipped)
5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local)
Universal Tee: $5.00 (local)
Clamps: $4.00 (local)

So right around $85 bucks for an alternative solution to spulen's kit.

Edit: Also, I thought it might be worth mentioning that the Brake Booster nipple is actually a check valve.










inside:










Edit 2 (*This thing is nice*):


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

installed it yesterday during a transmission swap.










also, the brakes work perfectly off of the N80 vacuum line.


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## 5_Cent (May 22, 2007)

le0n said:


> i don't have my IE plate yet. but here are some photos of what i've done for the hose routing.
> 
> this is the universal tee that i used:
> 
> ...



You just split the hose off the throttle body there and ran it to the brake booster?? Can't be that simple!


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

5_Cent said:


> You just split the hose off the throttle body there and ran it to the brake booster?? Can't be that simple!


Yep. The is absolutely no reason for it to be complex. It's a vacuum line. This is actually a cleaner source for vacuum that it's less likely to drain oil vapor down to the check valve at the booster. 

I wish I would have done this modification from day one of owning my rabbit. The brakes feel so much better.


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## Hgarcia (Jul 19, 2011)

Tapping into the N80 valve seems like a great idea, My jetta also has a leaking vacuum pump, and the pump is very noisy as well, I know it's only been a few months since you did this mod but how is it holding up? I like your way better than that other kit that goes into the PCV valve but haven't seen or heard of anyone doing it that way and was wondering if you had any issues after.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Hgarcia said:


> Tapping into the N80 valve seems like a great idea, My jetta also has a leaking vacuum pump, and the pump is very noisy as well, I know it's only been a few months since you did this mod but how is it holding up? I like your way better than that other kit that goes into the PCV valve but haven't seen or heard of anyone doing it that way and was wondering if you had any issues after.


sorry for the late response.

i'm almost positive that no one else has done it this way, that's why you won't see it.

everything is as good as the day i did it, and i don't expect to ever have any issue with it.

with the pcv route (and this specific 2.5 engine), i could almost guarantee that i'd have oil eventually pooling at the brake booster check valve.


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## Hgarcia (Jul 19, 2011)

Thanks for the reply i just got mine a couple of days ago and am going to go with your way of doing it, on my 99 passat if the pcv got clogged it would have white gunk all over so i agree that the pcv system might clog the line and the valve. I hope the plate doesnt leak, if so does anyone know the o-ring size? Itd be nice to have an extra one on hand if it does.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

IE makes one for your vehicle?

if so, i wouldn't worry about it leaking.


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## Hgarcia (Jul 19, 2011)

So i tried your method last night and boy was it a pain to getbthe pump out, one pf the bolts stripped on the plate and im not sure how tight it was but i hopenit dpesnt leak, i want to get a new one but don't know the specs on it, i also got a 3/8 tee all around but the n80 looks like its 1/4 and wont fit. On of the vacuum lines that connects to intake tubbing snapped off too because it was so brittle, it was the one more towards the right, any idea what it goes too?


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## Hgarcia (Jul 19, 2011)

Oh and this is on the 07 jetta 2.5 btw, i was using the passat as a reference towards the pcv issues on these cars


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## Hgarcia (Jul 19, 2011)

Just to get back to you i went and got the exact tee you had and it fit perfectly, the brakes work great and do feel bit more firm, and the engine seems quieter withoit the pump, turns out i didnt strip the bolt, the hex bit i used stripped, a different 5mm hex did the job. The hose i broke looks like its for the seconday air pump but i couldnt get the other end out to replace the hose, i put it back together with some electrical tape and so far so good, just waiting for some time to get it out find the size for the hose and replace it.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ that's a good update.

good luck on the SAI hose.

i've yet to have to touch that pump.


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## Hgarcia (Jul 19, 2011)

I looked at it from the bottom, and they did a good job of tucking it in there, i just wish the hoses were easier to take out of holes


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## Steelart99 (Aug 27, 2013)

Quick question ... maybe showing how simple I am. Do I need to drain the oil before pulling the vacuum pump?


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Steelart99 said:


> Do I need to drain the oil before pulling the vacuum pump?


nope.


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## Steelart99 (Aug 27, 2013)

le0n said:


> nope.


Thanks!


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## bmwdr1 (Feb 4, 2018)

*Contaminants in the booster*

Some of you have concerns with oil or other fluids getting into the booster - this is a VACUUM source and supply! The only thing that can enter the booster is brake fluid if your master cylinder blows out so no need to worry about contamination from the engine.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

bmwdr1 said:


> Some of you have concerns with oil or other fluids getting into the booster - *this is a VACUUM source and supply*! The only thing that can enter the booster is brake fluid if your master cylinder blows out so no need to worry about contamination from the engine.


i like your thinking 

wait, do you work for Spulen?

search the P0106 threads on here and then tell us again that this is only a vacuum source and supply.


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## JackofSpeed (Aug 4, 2015)

I just came on there to say thanks--my vacuum pump was leaking and I blocked it off with the IE plate and rerouted vacuum as described.
No way I am paying 900 for a new, eventually fail OE vacuum pump. Fortunately, manual transmission makes the pump itself a 10 minute swap and blockoff.

What an engineering boondoggle. Is there any data from the people who have been running vacuum like this long term in regards to negative side effects?


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

JackofSpeed said:


> I just came on there to say thanks--my vacuum pump was leaking and I blocked it off with the IE plate and rerouted vacuum as described.
> No way I am paying 900 for a new, eventually fail OE vacuum pump. Fortunately, manual transmission makes the pump itself a 10 minute swap and blockoff.
> 
> What an engineering boondoggle. Is there any data from the people who have been running vacuum like this long term in regards to negative side effects?


^^ not exactly sure what you mean by long-term, but mine has been this way for over 30k miles now.

everything is exactly the same.


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*Deleted pump, getting warning lights*

Hi. I completed this conversion as described on my son's 2010 Jetta. I am now getting a light for "Electro-mechanical power steering assist reduced" and one for "ESP malfunction or switched off". Any advice?

Thanks,

JP


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## Wolfsburg007 (Apr 21, 2011)

jaypee77 said:


> Hi. I completed this conversion as described on my son's 2010 Jetta. I am now getting a light for "Electro-mechanical power steering assist reduced" and one for "ESP malfunction or switched off". Any advice?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JP


Did you disconnect the battery to do the job? 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


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## jaypee77 (Jan 3, 2002)

*All set now*

Yes, I did take out the battery to complete the job. I just took it for a longer drive and the warning lights went off. I think I'm all set now.

Big thanks to the OP for the help. I'm really happy with the result.

JP


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## 7GIRLS3CUPS (Aug 11, 2016)

Wolfsburg007 said:


> Did you disconnect the battery to do the job?





jaypee77 said:


> Yes, I did take out the battery to complete the job. I just took it for a longer drive and the warning lights went off. I think I'm all set now.
> Big thanks to the OP for the help. I'm really happy with the result.
> JP


Any time you disconnect the battery with an electric steer car, turn the steering wheel fully left to the lock and hold it for about 3 seconds then the same to the right. :thumbup:


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## sophisticake (Jul 17, 2019)

*Delete Kit from Spulen*

I've had the Spulen delete kit installed for about 1.5 years. Fixed my problem and I haven't had any issues since.


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## jsmed (Mar 27, 2019)

So, I am getting ready to do the delete this weekend. I am planning to use @le0n's method of going into the tube off the throttle body for the vacuum.

I have the IE blockoff plate. With the spulen kit you replace the intake manifold tube. What is the connector in the factory tube? It looks like there may be some sensor there, or is it something that goes to the vacuum pump? Is it OK to leave the original hose? Do I need to take out the part that is in the factory hose and replace it with a coupler, or just leave it as is?

This is on a 2009 New Beetle convertible with BPS engine code.


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## jsmed (Mar 27, 2019)

jsmed said:


> So, I am getting ready to do the delete this weekend. I am planning to use @le0n's method of going into the tube off the throttle body for the vacuum.
> 
> I have the IE blockoff plate. With the spulen kit you replace the intake manifold tube. What is the connector in the factory tube? It looks like there may be some sensor there, or is it something that goes to the vacuum pump? Is it OK to leave the original hose? Do I need to take out the part that is in the factory hose and replace it with a coupler, or just leave it as is?
> 
> This is on a 2009 New Beetle convertible with BPS engine code.


NVM. Now that I got the breather box out, I can see I will not do anything with the factory tube. The brake vacuum booster tube is being disconnected from the vacuum pump. I'll just replace the current tube like le0n specified.


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## jsmed (Mar 27, 2019)

Hgarcia said:


> So i tried your method last night and boy was it a pain to getbthe pump out, one pf the bolts stripped on the plate and im not sure how tight it was but i hopenit dpesnt leak, i want to get a new one but don't know the specs on it, i also got a 3/8 tee all around but the n80 looks like its 1/4 and wont fit. On of the vacuum lines that connects to intake tubbing snapped off too because it was so brittle, it was the one more towards the right, any idea what it goes too?





Hgarcia said:


> Just to get back to you i went and got the exact tee you had and it fit perfectly, the brakes work great and do feel bit more firm, and the engine seems quieter withoit the pump, turns out i didnt strip the bolt, the hex bit i used stripped, a different 5mm hex did the job. The hose i broke looks like its for the seconday air pump but i couldnt get the other end out to replace the hose, i put it back together with some electrical tape and so far so good, just waiting for some time to get it out find the size for the hose and replace it.


I am such a freaking amateur!

I am having the same problem Hgarcia described. However, I am using the same universal tee that le0n showed. 

For anyone else that used le0n's method, how did you get the N80 tubing over the barb? It looks likehe cut the 1/8 and 1/4 barbs off and used the 3/8 barbs (the largest ones on the universal tee). My N80 goes over the 1/4 barb easily, but I cant get over the 3/8 end.

How did you get it on each end? I can't easily disconnect the N80 tube to twist either end.

Thanks!


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## technix77 (Sep 27, 2019)

thought I'd add my 2cents.

Had the delete kit from Spulen installed for a few years now, noticed that the hose gets soaked with oil and started to sweat through and the brake pedal would feel kinda weird until warmed up.

So recently I switched over to the method in this thread where you tap the N80 line, so far it's working fine and I notice the brake pedal feels more consistent. will update once I put more miles on.



The delete kit works as they intend, but it's not a good long term solution, the silicon hose will start to weaken and get soft. 
the block off plate holds up, I have the original thin plate design and it's fine, just the hose is having issues.


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## halbwissen (Jul 20, 2001)

I recently replaced my vacuum pump with an IE block-off plate and used le0n's method. I was going to the use the capped nipped on the passenger side of my intake manifold, but this was a more direct route and given his success with it, I figured may as well. :thumbup:


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

technix77 said:


> thought I'd add my 2cents.
> 
> Had the delete kit from Spulen installed for a few years now, noticed that the hose gets soaked with oil and started to sweat through and the brake pedal would feel kinda weird until warmed up.
> 
> ...


^^ good to know the thin plate hardware/seals held up fine for this duration.

although i am sorry to hear of the oil vapor issues.

it's been a while now since i did this; still no issues and the brakes feel exactly the same.

if anyone runs into an issue with fitting those hose ends on the tee, perhaps you can use a bit of vasoline on the barb.

i don't recall it being very difficult to get on there.

also, for full disclosure, i never put any clamps on that tee connection.


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## mkfiverabbit (May 17, 2021)

le0n said:


> ^^ the spulen plate looked too thin.
> 
> i ordered the IE block off because it it has better design and seemingly better integrity. it should arrive before the weekend. i was bummed at first that it didn't come with any hoses.
> 
> ...


I just want to say I followed exactly what you said to the T (pun intended) yesterday on my 2009 VW Rabbit automatic transmission. The system works perfectly so far, ill check in here again in a few months but gosh dang am I happy. Integrated engineering plate used. Spliced the N80 vac hose coming off the throttle body. I must say, it is ANNOYING to get the vac pump out in the automatic version of this vehicle. I had to remove the throttle cable and its nuts from he transmission, and then wiggle the vac pump for about an hour into the correct position. I also installed an injen cold air intake after deleting the vac pump. Car feels absolutely unbelievable.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Haven't had to deal with the auto-version.

Glad to hear it went well.

I'm still driving my rabbit as a daily so you will not have issues with this setup


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## Punch Buggy (Jun 24, 2021)

NothingLasts1987 said:


> Excuse my ignorance, but isn't it just suction? I should have said negative pressure. I don't want the tube collapsing.


I believe vacuum lines are not the same as fuel line. A fuel line could collapse when weaken from heat or oil saturation. Not a good idea in a panic stop. Vacuum lines only should be used. Don't forget to use a check valve at the booster. Just a note: I have an oil leak and vacuum leak at the pump. Hoping to just change the vacuum fitting at the pump. Any ideas?


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## Boomer Guy (Mar 26, 2021)

Here is a link to the vacuum pump delete. For removing the vacuum pump over the automatic transmission gear selector pole, watch any of YouTube videos. There are some extra steps but nothing complicated. Be sure to mark the parts on the shifter rod before removing them. DAP (Deutsche Auto Parts) and Humble Mechanic have videos of this.









DIY: 2.5L MKV Vacuum Pump Delete


Items purchased: IE plate: $73.00 (shipped) 5/16" ID fuel line (2 foot): $3.00 (local) Universal Tee: $5.00 (local) Clamps: $4.00 (local) I removed this the other night while doing a transmission swap: You can remove the pump without removing the transmission. Google search it to find the...




www.volkswagenownersclub.com


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