# Brake Vibration from Track Days



## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

I don't know how well I can explain this, but here goes....
Stock 20AE calipers and rotors (recently replaced but problem was with OE rotors and is the same with OE replacements). ATE Blue brake fluid. Ferrodo ds2500 up front and HPS+ in back. 
usually starting around the end of the 1st day or beginning of the second day at any track event I start getting a vibration-crunching when braking hard. By hard I mean on the threshold of ABS, lap after lap. The car stops just as well as it did before the vibration started, and I have no brake fade. The really annoying thing is that for 2 weeks after the event, I still get the vibration, I only feel it when braking hard over say 50 mph, and it eventually becomes less and less until it goes away. 
It is not warped rotors, because that problem doesn't fix itself. People tell me that it's deposit being left on the rotors from the pads. I'm wondering what I can do about this. SHould I run some cooling ducts? Try new pads? Just live with it? 
Just looking for people with a similar experience.
Any ideas are appreciated.


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## AutoXMan (Aug 7, 2002)

I had the same problem with the same pads and rotors on my 20th. Do your rotors appear smeared with something? Can you see deposits on the rotor? That's what happened with mine. It can still be the pad material without seeing it, but I could definitely see it on my car.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: (AutoXMan)*

That looks like it. Are you just dealing with it or are you gonna try different pads? 
I'm wondering if I just need to upgrade to a more aggressive pad. They'll probably chew the rotors up more, but at $70 a rotor, who really cares?


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## Turbozo (Nov 17, 2005)

I had this problem on my GTI (not a 20th) and switched to slotted rotors on the recommondation from my Porsche tech. 
No problems since then. I use the same pad setup as you, but also had the same problem with the Hawk pads in the front.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: (Turbozo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Turbozo* »_I had this problem on my GTI (not a 20th) and switched to slotted rotors on the recommondation from my Porsche tech. 
No problems since then. I use the same pad setup as you, but also had the same problem with the Hawk pads in the front.


How has the pad wear been with the slotted rotors? My concern with going that way is wearing out $130 brake pads 3 times faster (which is the rumor on the street). I already went through one set this season and am halfway through my second.


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## Turbozo (Nov 17, 2005)

I would say it is about the same. My tech said that the slots don't "cut" or "shave the actual pad, just the surface dust that builds up and ejects it via the slot. I have noticed an increase in brake dust on my wheels since going to slots.


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## rocker212 (Dec 7, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

Hey NYC20AE - I read a stoptech article about this, they claimed that about 70% of the time you can get the deposits off using Hawk Blue pads. I don't know if having deposits from a light track pad (2500's) would be harder to get off than street pad deposits, but I guess it's worth a shot. I have this problem and will hopefully try this procedure out soon, if I do it i'll tell you if it works. I am also on the quest for fabricating brake ducts and any other way to prevent this. Here is the site for reference: http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_padremoval.shtml


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (rocker212)*

Hey Ian, Thanks for the info. I might try the 60 to 30 stops with the pads that I have. Maybe that'll do something.
One interesting quote from the article "The most common cause of uneven pad deposits and associated vibration is use of street performance pads on the track." Then again, they label the ds2500 as a race pad on their site...
So the question is, slotted rotors or track pads, both, or neither...








That's an easy choice.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

I have this problem from time to time with the ds2500 as well. But mine are quite worn from 6 or 7 track days and 15,000 miles of city driving.
I think it is possible to develop "hot spots" on the rotor which make pad deposits stick easier. You grind away the deposit by doing the bedding procedure again, but they keep coming back. I think the only real solution is to use a tougher pad from the start.

BTW don't go slotted. If you find that little vibration annoying, the slots will bug you. They add quite a bit of noise and vibration and are not worth the money IMO. It would be better to invest in those brake ducts - something that I plan to do when I get around to it








Oh yeah, what tires do you have that allow you to beat down those brakes so well? I have the F1 GSD3's which are great for traction, especially in rain, but kinda overheat when pushed and like to roll onto the sidewall if not pumped up to 40+ PSI


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (phatvw)*

I was talking to Mike at Tyrolsport tonight. The consensus seems to be that Hawk HP10's on the track should solve the problem. I might want to start braking later and for less time too, but that's another story. 
I'm not sold on the slotted either. It's the extra cost involved as well. You have any tips on what people have done to run brake ducts?
I'm running Kumho Ecsta MX. I try to keep them at 40 hot and I have good luck with them. Next year I'm moving up to the new Falken Azenis for the street/wet track and probably Kumho Victoracers for the track. I already wore out my street set of MX's and now I have to wear out the MX's on the track wheels.


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## Turbozo (Nov 17, 2005)

Well, I haven't tried other pads, but sticking with the these and changing to slots solved the problem you are having. (as it was the same one I was having.)
What happens if you switch out to another brand and have the same problem?


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## HilF (Jan 10, 2004)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (phatvw)*

paul, what slotted rotors are you using?
i am running ate slotted up front and don't have a vibration/noise issue.
i remember angie telling me that she went for a ride in your car ar PR. she said it felt like warpped rotors (which she experienced in my car)
just wondering.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (white_r!ce)*


_Quote, originally posted by *white_r!ce* »_paul, what slotted rotors are you using?
i am running ate slotted up front and don't have a vibration/noise issue.
i remember angie telling me that she went for a ride in your car ar PR. she said it felt like warpped rotors (which she experienced in my car)
just wondering.

My name is Dan! Paul was driving the other black GTI








My rotors are the ECS slotted 12.3". Yes they do have a bit of vibration on heavy braking and lots of noise!. Part of it is due to the slots, but mine definitely have hot spots that attract pad material deposits like crazy. having halfway worn pads doesn't help either. hopefully I'll have a whole new brake system for next season.
Yeah Angie had a lot of fun in my car. I also took Moe and my buddy Shane out for a spin too


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

I'll add another it's-happened-to-me. Last weekend I was at VIR with ACNA. I ran DS2500 in front and Hawk HPS in the rear on Kuhmo V700 stickies. The first day (4 25min sessions) and first session of day 2 they worked well. But the 2nd session of day 2 I started getting vibration mainly from the right front. I backed off for a lap but the vibration continued and sounded horrible.
Once back in the paddock, I took a look at the rotors (they looked very similar to AutoXMan's pic) and conferred with a friend. We agreed uneven heating/cooling of the rotor was causing the pad material deposits.
Before my 3rd session, I did a pad break-in that seemed to help clear the rotor somewhat. Even after the 4.5 hour drive home and driving a couple days last week, I've still got a slight vibration and visible deposits. I may take some steel-wool to the rotors just to get me through winter.
I'm leaning towards Cobalt pads for the next event as well as ducting.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*

Ive got the same thing from VIR. Whats odd is that I didnt see any deposits on Mikes car.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*

I don't know if steel wool will be enough, probably need to sand it off, but let me know.
Next time out I think I'm going to take off the inner brake dust shield and see if that does anything. Probably not, but .....
And if anyone has any ideas or pictures about running ducts, I'd be interested in seeing them. I'm at a little bit of a loss as to what materials are available. On a past trip to home depot I didn't really see anything that I felt would work well.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

Search for posts created by osbornsm. He made some ducts for his R32.


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NOVAdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_
I don't know if steel wool will be enough, probably need to sand it off, but let me know.


Hm. Good thought, especially since the steel wool I have is 00000.

_Quote, originally posted by *NOVAdub* »_Search for posts created by osbornsm. He made some ducts for his R32. 

Search sucks. It took way too long to find osbornsm's post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2031097
After reading that and a couple of other related threads, it seems the ECS 2-piece rotor is a good but expensive choice for cool(er) rotors.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*

Nice work on the search! Led me ot this http://public.fotki.com/ttschw...oling/
The pictures didn't work on the R32 thread. 

_Quote, originally posted by *sanch0* »_
After reading that and a couple of other related threads, it seems the ECS 2-piece rotor is a good but expensive choice for cool(er) rotors.

The ECS rotor is more than just expensive. They want $500+ for a set of something that is meant to wear out! That's more than expensive when I can get stock replacements for $120 and spend an afternoon and $50 on parts to get cooler brakes. 


_Modified by NYC20AE at 4:31 PM 11-28-2005_


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_
The ECS rotor is more than just expensive. They want $500+ for a set of something that is meant to wear out! That's more than expensive when I can get stock replacements for $120 and spend an afternoon and $50 on parts to get cooler brakes. 

Thats not the worst of it. The replacement rotor rings are still more expensive than regular rotors!


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (phatvw)*

I think a set of replacement rotor rings are still close to $400! 
That TT duct job is a boon for me since I have the TT spindles and thereby the same TT dust shields. I don't like where he has the intake mounted on the control arm, but I'm sure that I can find someplace better...
Too bad the pics didn't work on the R32 thread.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

Send a PM to osbornsm. He probably still has all of them.


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## osbornsm (May 7, 2004)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_That TT duct job is a boon for me since I have the TT spindles and thereby the same TT dust shields. I don't like where he has the intake mounted on the control arm, but I'm sure that I can find someplace better...
Too bad the pics didn't work on the R32 thread.

Well... I can't find the pics now. I clean too much








*Passenger duct:* Takes up only half of the opening to leave airflow for the aux radiator. You can easily run the duct to the splash shield from there. (after you cut out the bottom of the funnel that feeds the aux radiator)
*Driver's Duct:* takes up whole intake next to the grille, run line back to splash shield the EXACT same way that the fotoki link shows. But running this duct is tricky and requires LOTS of cutting of the fender lining to get the duct to clear the wheel at full lock.
I'll have photos again soonly


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (osbornsm)*


_Quote, originally posted by *osbornsm* »_
*Passenger duct:* Takes up only half of the opening to leave airflow for the aux radiator. You can easily run the duct to the splash shield from there. (after you cut out the bottom of the funnel that feeds the aux radiator)


I'm pretty sure neither NYC20AE or myself have an aux radiator. We do have a funnel, but it's for our SMIC







(unless NYC20AE removed the funnel when he installed the Tyrolsport SMIC).

_Quote, originally posted by *osbornsm* »_
I'll have photos again soonly


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*

No funnel on my car. Wasn't worth the trouble to retrofit to the SMIC. 
I don't want to take up any of that opening on that side, since I don't have the same super huge opening as the R32. My lower valance is already screwed from a little off road trip I took at a winter driving school, so I might cut some holes in that, I can't make it any worse...
Might trying using these... http://www.quickcar.net/cooling/cp_bumpduct.html
http://www.quickcar.net/cooling/cp_nacaduct.html


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

P.S. Where can you get 2.5" hose? I found 3"...


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## 2 doors (Jun 18, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NOVAdub)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NOVAdub* »_Ive got the same thing from VIR. Whats odd is that I didnt see any deposits on Mikes car. 

I saw that on your car and was wondering what it was. I was running my car pretty light the first day, and really didn't start pushing harder until the second day. My rotors had the blue tint, but I didn't get any deposits. Also, keep in mind that my rotors and pads were only 2 days old at the time. They only had the miles on them to get me to the track. Maybe the additional mass of my rotors dispersed the heat better. I don't remember getting deposits with my Hawk HP+ pads.
This will be quite a turn of events if the DS2500's aren't all the 'tex has made them out to be!


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (2 doors)*

Hmm my vibration issues only started happening when both the pads and rotors were about halfway worn. Maybe we're just using them too long?
I know race teams throw out pads when they get halfway - they just don't have the heat capacity any more.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (2 doors)*

Mine were replaced the week before Summit Point, so they are still relatively new as well. I had some deposits but they wore off within a day of leaving SP. When I get a chance Im going to try and steel wool them.


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_Hmm my vibration issues only started happening when both the pads and rotors were about halfway worn. Maybe we're just using them too long?
I know race teams throw out pads when they get halfway - they just don't have the heat capacity any more.

My pads were installed 2 weeks before VIR and 1 day before an autocross. I did a proper break-in the day of install and then put ~100 miles on them before the autocross. I'll measure the material but I'm fairly certain they're > 50% and there's no way I put the pads through the same torture a racer would.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*

I have had the problem with new pads. It all started when I realized just how hard I could brake. My first few track events I had no problems. 
I am going to start working on running NACA ducts on the sides of the lower front valance. If I can get it to work it will look HOT and be cool.











_Modified by NYC20AE at 10:07 AM 11-30-2005_


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## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

if you guys are running on the track i would just swap in a set of track rotors and pads, the ds2500's are a good max performance street pad, and good for auto cross or LIGHT tracking, but if you guys are going balls out on the track, i would just switch to a track only pad.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (Banditt007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banditt007* »_ i would just switch to a track only pad.








That will work well with my soon to come track only car


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## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NOVAdub)*

what car r u building up


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (Banditt007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banditt007* »_if you guys are running on the track i would just swap in a set of track rotors and pads, the ds2500's are a good max performance street pad, and good for auto cross or LIGHT tracking, but if you guys are going balls out on the track, i would just switch to a track only pad.









My wallet's afraid that you (and Simon







) are correct, dedicated track pads and rotors are needed. It's a shame the ECS 2-piece rotors are so expensive. Ideas on track-only rotors? Is it worth using an aftermarket rotor over stock replacement (price vs. performance)?


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sanch0* »_
My wallet's afraid that you (and Simon







) are correct, dedicated track pads and rotors are needed. It's a shame the ECS 2-piece rotors are so expensive. Ideas on track-only rotors? Is it worth using an aftermarket rotor over stock replacement (price vs. performance)?

I seem to be somewhat obsessed with the "cool" factor of adding brake ducts, but track pads are the way to go. If I still have troubles, then I'll work on the ducting. 
Track rotors though?? I don't think that's necessary. Just swap the pads in and out for track events. Use OEM $120/set rotors and throw em out when they are worn. I know plenty of people that do that with no problems. There is NO need for $500 rotors. Racing is expensive enough, there is no point in wasting money.


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## 2 doors (Jun 18, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

My car is in the process of becoming "track only" or at least "track mostly" car. The new rotors I just bought are Zimmermans from impex. They seem to be quality pieces and cost me a little less than $120. 
Of course there is no NEED for $500 rotors. There is no NEED for a 300hp GTI, but it would be nice!








I was looking at getting Carbotech XP-8 pads. These are rated as a track only pad that you could probably drive on occasionally without killing yourself. They claim to be not too harsh on rotors. I realised I needed new pad less than a week before my last event, and they didn't have them in stock. I went with the DS2500's based on the fact that is what most people here were using for dual purpose pads (and they were cheap and I could get them fast). If they start giving me more problems next year, I'll probably get the XP8's.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (2 doors)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2 doors* »_My car is in the process of becoming "track only" or at least "track mostly" car. The new rotors I just bought are Zimmermans from impex. They seem to be quality pieces and cost me a little less than $120. 
Of course there is no NEED for $500 rotors. There is no NEED for a 300hp GTI, but it would be nice!









Track only sounds nice. I am hoping for that soon as well. Need to get a second set of wheels first.
I have the Zimmermans too, same spec as OE to my knowledge, I might get the Brembo OE replacements next time, but I think it's all really the same stuff.
You make a good point, but a 300HP GTI isn't a disposable part. A $500 set of rotors is.


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_
Track rotors though?? I don't think that's necessary. Just swap the pads in and out for track events. Use OEM $120/set rotors and throw em out when they are worn. I know plenty of people that do that with no problems. There is NO need for $500 rotors. Racing is expensive enough, there is no point in wasting money.

A separate set of rotors to match the pads. ie. don't have to worry about bedding the pads/rotors after every swap. For an extra $120 or so for rotors plus maybe 15min(?) per wheel, I think it'd be worth it.
This would be for HPDE only, ~3 times a year. I don't take autocross serious enough to do a pad/rotor swap + wheel swap.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sanch0* »_
A separate set of rotors to match the pads. ie. don't have to worry about bedding the pads/rotors after every swap. For an extra $120 or so for rotors plus maybe 15min(?) per wheel, I think it'd be worth it.
This would be for HPDE only, ~3 times a year. I don't take autocross serious enough to do a pad/rotor swap + wheel swap.

The only problem with that is I'd be the guy stripping the rotor set screw at the track and would end up sticking with the same rotors anyway....








You were the autocross champion and you don't take autocross seriously enough? Imagine if you got serious....


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## Banditt007 (Oct 23, 2002)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

ehhh who needs rotor set screws anyway, the original ones did not want to come out of my hubs when i changed the rotors. impact driver, heat, pb blaster ect....didnt work....so i put on the safty glasses and slammed the opposite end of the rotor in relation to the set screw...never saw a screw head fly off so quick lol. since then i have not used set screws.

I have found if you are careful removing and installing the wheel the rotor will stay in the same spot, if you are alittle rough though then you have the fun of lining up 3 pieces to put the wheel bolts in.
On another note ECS I believe sells something, that you remove the wheel....then screw in this large stud, which holds the rotor and the hub together, then you slide your wheel over that, put it your 4 bolts, remove stud, put in 5th one and torque to spec


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (Banditt007)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banditt007* »_ehhh who needs rotor set screws anyway, the original ones did not want to come out of my hubs when i changed the rotors. impact driver, heat, pb blaster ect....didnt work....so i put on the safty glasses and slammed the opposite end of the rotor in relation to the set screw...never saw a screw head fly off so quick lol. since then i have not used set screws.

I have found if you are careful removing and installing the wheel the rotor will stay in the same spot, if you are alittle rough though then you have the fun of lining up 3 pieces to put the wheel bolts in.
On another note ECS I believe sells something, that you remove the wheel....then screw in this large stud, which holds the rotor and the hub together, then you slide your wheel over that, put it your 4 bolts, remove stud, put in 5th one and torque to spec









NICE! ROFL







Like my father always told me, if it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer!


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## 2 doors (Jun 18, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

Sorry, this is a little off topic but... Bandit & NYC20AE - what tracks do you guys usually run on? It would be nice to have a big east coast VW track GTG. Me, sanch0, and NOVAdub run with the Audi Club at tracks like VIR and Summit Point. Maybe if they ever get that track in southern NJ built, we could all meet up there and run.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (2 doors)*

Lime Rock and the Glen are my "home" tracks. In addition to those standards, next year I'm looking to do VIR, possibly with the Quattro Club, Summit and BeaverRun with ???. I also run with PDA, CarGuys, or Tracquest/Chin Motorsports. I will also probably go back up to Mont Tremblant with the Quattro club for their annual national event next fall. That is a great track and only about a 7 1/2 drive from NYC. 
I think someone else recently tried to do a big GTG/track event at BeaverRun that never got off the ground. I don't think there are enough hardcore people here to get a huge east coast VW track event together. Even if there are, you'd never get everyone to agree on a date or a place. My impression is that most people here are more Show-n-not-Go than anything else. Keep in touch and if we're all at the same track, it would be cool to hang out.
What run group are you guys running with the Quattro Club?


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_The only problem with that is I'd be the guy stripping the rotor set screw at the track and would end up sticking with the same rotors anyway....









I would probably do the switch at home so as not to be rushed and break things.

_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_
You were the autocross champion and you don't take autocross seriously enough? Imagine if you got serious....









Yeah, "champion" ...with little to no competition







I autocross for fun and to improve my driving skillz. There's no monetary reward. involved so that's going to limit the amount of time, money and effort I put into it.

_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_
Lime Rock and the Glen are my "home" tracks. In addition to those standards, next year I'm looking to do VIR, possibly with the Quattro Club, Summit and BeaverRun with ???.


Wow. No one calls ACNA the Quattro Club. I thought I was the last to make the switch







Our ACNA chapter, Potomac-Chesapeake, does events at Summit Point and VIR. One of the other chapters runs BeaveRun events. I'd like to make it to one of the tracks north next year.

_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_
What run group are you guys running with the Quattro Club?


I'm in the Intermediate (Blue) group.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sanch0* »_
I would probably do the switch at home so as not to be rushed and break things.

In a perfect world alot of things would happen before I leave for events....









_Quote, originally posted by *sanch0* »_
Wow. No one calls ACNA the Quattro Club. I thought I was the last to make the switch







Our ACNA chapter, Potomac-Chesapeake, does events at Summit Point and VIR. One of the other chapters runs BeaveRun events. I'd like to make it to one of the tracks north next year.

I'm in the Intermediate (Blue) group.









Our chapter is NEQ (NorthEast Quattro Club) and the guy that introduced me to it is an old school member. I know it as the Quattro Club.... 
I added your chapter to my favorites and I'll keep an eye out for the events. You should definitely try the Glen, it's a great track http://www.neqclub.org I hear really good things about VIR too. I was actually going to go to VIR this coming weekend, but my stupid office xmas party is this Friday and I really can't blow that off without repercussions.








Oh well, next year it is.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

PCC ACNA does 2 VIR events. One in April (Mon and Tues.) and one in November (weekend before thanksgiving) Id like to try and make it to limerock this year. I was there for the Rennsport Reunion and had a blast.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NOVAdub)*

VIR in April might be just what the doctor ordered... PDA does a Lime Rock in early April http://www.pdadrivingschool.com/ and NEQ ACNA does a Lime Rock in June and 2 Glens: 1 in July and 1 in August.
Lime Rock is great, but if you've already been there you should try The Glen. Probably not much farther for you since it's should be a straighter shot north for you. If you do The Glen, I HIGHLY recommend Tracquest. Track time is tremendous, you can easily get 6 to 8 hours in 2 days.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

Damn all you East coast guys! Up here in the PacNW, we only have 2 good tracks and they are 3 hours apart. There are a couple converted airfileds for auto-x style courses, but its nowhere near the cool road courses you guys get over there!


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_ PDA does a Lime Rock in early April 
PDA is now NASA North East







Ive never driven Lime Rock, just been there to watch and seen plenty of races on TV. Time to start taking advantage of the ACNA membership and doing some out of region events. Speaking of which time to pay the membership fees again.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (phatvw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *phatvw* »_Damn all you East coast guys! Up here in the PacNW, we only have 2 good tracks and they are 3 hours apart. There are a couple converted airfileds for auto-x style courses, but its nowhere near the cool road courses you guys get over there!


We have alot of tracks, but they aren't all close by.
From NYC:
Lime Rock: 2hrs
The Glen: 4.5 hours
Mid-Ohio: 8 Hours
Tremblant: 7.5 Hours
VIR: 8 hours (I think)
New Hampshire (NHIS): 5 hours
Summit Point: 5+ hours
I hope this is of some consolation to you.


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## sanch0 (Oct 27, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_We have alot of tracks, but they aren't all close by.


There's also two more in the works:
Southern NJ (Dragon? or something like that.)
Richmond, VA


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (sanch0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sanch0* »_
There's also two more in the works:
Southern NJ (Dragon? or something like that.)
Richmond, VA

Any ideas on opening dates? 
I think we are entering the Golden Age of Track Days.


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*

I think the track in NJ (thunderbolt I think is the name) breaks ground next year. You can see layouts and all that other stuff at http://www.njmotorsportspark.com. The track in VA is going to be near Williamsburg and you can see some info at http://www.dragonsridge.com Now that The new track at Summit is finished we will have 3 tracks within about a 2 hour drive. I hope Audi Club gets first crack at the new track here like some were speculating so we can get some weekend dates.


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## 2 doors (Jun 18, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NOVAdub)*

NYC20AE - you should definitely try to come to VIR in April, and you should stop "contemplating" the Shine rear sway bar and install it! Now, let's get this thread back on topic.








Any of you guys had the deposits wear off on their own since the last track day? Did anyone try steel wool or anything else to remove them? Anyone seriously considering switching pads before next season? Are we going to stop recommending DS2500's as adequate for MkIV's on track?


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## NOVAdub (Jul 28, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (2 doors)*

Mine are still there. Nothing worn off and if I get onthe brakes hard enough I get a really bad vibration in the pass front. Im sure the spherical bearings dont help. The car is in the shop for a few days, and when I get it back im going to get the steel wool out and see if I can make it any better. If not Ill just throw the old rotors on. No new pads for me as Im trying to get a track car over the winter. Imgetting a raise at work so hopefully it will happen sooner rather than later.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NOVAdub)*

I have not done a visual, but problem is 98% better, and I only get vibration at high speeds and it's not that bad. I have done some half assed bedding procedures on a couple of occassions and that helped.
I am moving to Hawk HT-10 for a track day pad next year and when the Ferrodos wear out I will replace them with OEM or similar on the street.
I still think the Ferrodos are a great pad for dual duty. I only had a problem when I started braking later and later and later nd harder and harder.... I wonder how many people drive hard enough to create this problem? I think Ferrodos are a great pad for beginning track day drivers. I have seen the Hawk HP+ get completey used up in ONE day at Mid Ohio... My Ferrodos' lasted me a long time for the abuse that I gave them and maybe I got the vibration, but they always worked with no fade. 
P.S. Still don't think that steel wool will do anything. If it does you're gonna work your ass off to get the deposit off. Sandpaper will work much better. Maybe a 120 or 200 grit. Even a whiz wheel with some kind of scotch pad attachement.... You won't damage the rotor.


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (2 doors)*


_Quote, originally posted by *2 doors* »_NYC20AE - you should definitely try to come to VIR in April, and you should stop "contemplating" the Shine rear sway bar and install it! Now, let's get this thread back on topic.









I'm vascillating between the rear sway and the camber plates as the next thing. I may go with the easier install and grab the camber plates first. The thing being that my car has such stiff rear bushings that it behaves like a regular MkIV with a rear sway.


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## phatvw (Aug 29, 2001)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (NYC20AE)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NYC20AE* »_I'm vascillating between the rear sway and the camber plates as the next thing. I may go with the easier install and grab the camber plates first. The thing being that my car has such stiff rear bushings that it behaves like a regular MkIV with a rear sway.

You won't be disappointed with the shine rear street bar. Highly recommended! If you're more interested in turn-in at this point, go with the bar. The camber plates will probably have less impact since you already have the TT spindles and LCA.
I would say the camber plates are just as difficult to install as the shine rear bar cause you have to do an alignment and disassemble the front suspension. The Shine bar is a more straight-forward install. Its just tedious to do the drilling thats all. IM me for more info on the installs since I've done them a few times


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## NYC20AE (Jul 2, 2003)

*Re: Brake Vibration from Track Days (phatvw)*

Better turn in with the RSB... that's nice. I hadn't heard anyone talk about that as a benefit.
I opened a post in the suspension forum. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2331408


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