# Cyl.(1-4), Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit



## Tanner Frisby (May 13, 2014)

Solution: 
Missing 10 Amp fuse #32 in fuse box which for my vehicle (gasoline 2.0L 2001 Jetta Mk4) is the injector's fuse. After replacement, a throttle body alignment (TBA) using a registered version of VCDS from Ross Tech (cost of USD $99 at time of writing and a USD $10 usb to OBDII port dongle [china made: "KKL Vag-com for 409.1"] off eBay or Amazon) finally cleared the codes. The engine sounded much better after the TBA and all the relevant error codes went away. 




Hello All,
I've been working on a 2001 Jetta Mk IV and have been struggling to get it to start. I don't know a whole lot about cars so I bought this car to learn on. After the equivalent of an engine swap, I can get the car to crank, but it won't start. After cranking I can hear the gas priming and flushing a few times near the engine which leads me to believe this is a no spark problem and not a fuel delivery problem, but that is just my speculation. If I remember correctly, this cycling of fluid will occur even when the key is removed. I was a little worried it was wasting gas so I pulled the battery to terminate the flow upon subsequent attempts. I let the first attempt run though and it was 6 or so squirts and purges. I could be off on this. 

The engine ran with no known problems directly before it was removed. Circuitry is likely to blame, I'm fairly certain that I have my gasoline hoses hooked up correctly. 
Below is my VCDS scan and beneath that is my condensed scan.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Saturday, 11 October 2014, 08:31:44.


Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55,56,57,75,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AZG.LBL
Controller: 06A 906 032 FP
Component: 2.0l R4/2V 4072
Coding: 00003
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 719556C728B1
3VWRB69MX2M024443 VWZ7Z0A3848344

8 Faults Found:
18044 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Airbag Controller
P1636 - 35-00 - -
16588 - Cyl.4, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
P0204 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16585 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0201 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16587 - Injector: Cylinder 3 (N32): Circuit Malfunction
P0203 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16586 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0202 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
18057 - Data Bus Powertrain Missing message from ABS Control Module
P1649 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17967 - Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings
P1559 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17972 - Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Low Voltage During Adaptation P1564 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.LBL
Controller: 01M 927 733 KQ
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4892
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 89659E27A021
1 Fault Found:
01236 - Shift Selector Locking Solenoid (N110)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.LBL
Controller: 1C0 907 379 C
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0004097
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2A2781ABC5E7
2 Faults Found:
00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
00668 - 00668
Vehicle voltage terminal 30, signal outside tolerance. 
- Check fuses wires, conncetions as well as voltage supply to COntrol Module
- Check wiring in wiring harness

The relevant fuses are S178 and S179. 

Bentley recommends checking the following wiring:

Harness pin 9 should go to battery positive (with ignition OFF, it says). Pin 24 should go to ground. Since it's intermittant, you might want to try wiggling things while you test. Or you could just clear the code and see if it comes back...

Here's an image of the connector:

008 - Please Register/Activate


_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


*Address 01: Engine * 
18044 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Airbag Controller
16588 - Cyl.4, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16585 - Cyl.1, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16587 - Cyl.3, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16586 - Cyl.2, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
18057 - Data Bus Powertrain Missing message from ABS Control Module
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/ESP_System_Function_Test
17967 - Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17967/P1559/005465
17972 - Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Low Voltage During Adaptation 
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/324996-check-engine-light.html


*Address 02: Auto Trans* 
_01236 - Shift Selector Locking Solenoid (N110) 
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground_


*Address 03: ABS Brakes* 
_00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit_
00668 - 00668
Vehicle voltage terminal 30, signal outside tolerance. 
- Check fuses wires, conncetions as well as voltage supply to Control Module
- Check wiring in wiring harness
The relevant fuses are S178 and S179. 

*Address # : Instrument Cluster*
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01039 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/0103901128
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low – Intermittent
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01176
01314 – Engine Control Module – No communication
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314
01316 – ABS Control Module – No communication
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01316
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)
49-00 - No Communications

Green = Urgent / Top Priority
Purple = Priority / Needs Addressing
Blue = Possible Non-issue, Else Purple
Red = Ignore / Delete (if possible)
_Italicized_ = Sorted Out









Tracing the spark plugs back to what I assume is the distributor(?) gave me these 7 wires as possible culprits:










The 7 wires are:________________________________Steady State: right before cranking___Cranking: During cranking
Brown (thick, ground):___________________________SS = 12.1 V (respect to +)__________Cranking = 10.xx V
Black/Purple (thick, power?):______________________SS = 12.0 V (respect to gnd)________Cranking = 10.0 V
Green/Black sheathed inside second layer of black:____SS = 3.5 V_______________________Cranking = decays to 0 V, noticeable tau
Turquoise:_____________________________________ SS = 2.5 V_______________________Cranking = 3.0 V
Blue/Purple:____________________________________SS = 0 V_________________________Cranking = 0.5-0.75 V
Blue/Yellow:____________________________________SS = 0 V_________________________Cranking = 0.75 V
*Purple/Red:___________________________________SS = very low ~ 0.1 volts nonzero____Cranking = 0.7V and 0.4V


(also threw in Blue/Orange)
*Blue/Orange:__________________________________SS = 0.2 V_______________________Cranking = 0.6V for both


*Purple/Red and *Blue/Orange are may be crossed. During the rewiring, I took my best guess at reconnecting the two of these but they each had two possible configurations:










The *Blue/Orange probably isn't a problem as both showed the same readings for Steady State and Cranking. The *Purple/Red on the other hand had different cranking values. I switched the pairs and retwisted them, but the car still didn't start. 

One of the *Purple/Red wires goes to the (distributor?) and the other goes to the (throttle body?), which is the source of a whining and beeping noise.



















As the two wires behave differently on cranking, can somebody tell me which wire goes where?










Here is the "Green/Black sheathed inside second layer of black".





I don't know the proper trouble shooting procedure for this and have spent too much time guessing. Can somebody please lend me their knowledge?

Thanks,
Tanner Frisby


----------



## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

That looks like a wiring nightmare. I would have just swapped the whole harness instead of splicing like that. That hacked wiring is certainly the problem. If the fuel pump is coming on with no key and just the battery connected, then there is an issue with the main engine wiring harness. I personally know that when I had my main engine harness disconnected and connected the battery that my fuel pump ran and pumped out gas without the key. This was on a Mk3 VR6, but I'd imagine it's similar on a Mk4. You do risk damaging the ECU just swapping wires around like that. Probably not the answer you're looking for, but your best bet is to swap a non-hacked harness.


----------



## Tanner Frisby (May 13, 2014)

I guess I need to give more of the story. 

When I said the equivalent of an engine swap, I removed the engine and reinstalled it in the rear. Now the engine powers the rear wheels and sits behind the two passengers. 










I marked the wires I cut and reconnected them later. I think I got the vast majority right, but apparently not all of them. 

I have included a short video to better illustrate the problem:






Also, here are the voltages at the distributor's plug.













I don't know what to try to trouble shoot this issue. Any ideas are welcome
Thanks,
Tanner Frisby


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

If you look up "hack job" in the dictionary, you're probably going to see a picture of that wiring. Ditch the butt connectors. Use proper solder or W-crimps and heat shrink.

Spend the $99 to register your VCDS, you're going to need the registered version to do a throttle ADP anyway.

Now that that's out of the way. Stop speculating. Use proper procedures to check for spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulse. Report back with what exactly is missing from the equation. For the injector circuit codes, check the fuel pump relay and it's related wiring. You should have 12v at the injectors while cranking, the ECU will provide PWM ground.

Where's your MAF, is it installed?

Also, there is no distributor on a MK4 engine, that's a coil pack. You'll want to open up the service manual and see the proper procedure for checking what's going on at that connector, just measuring voltage doesn't tell you anything.


----------



## Tanner Frisby (May 13, 2014)

Well she roared (or rather rumbled) back to life after a 3 month hiatus.

48 days ago I tried hot wiring the car, 
47 days ago I got the key to work, 
46 days ago I retrieved my first error codes 
38 days ago I started testing the fuel pump, 
31 days ago I gave up on the fuel pump, 
22 days ago I installed the new fuel pump,
8 days ago I cleared the lack of brakes as a potential hold up,
5 days ago I got additional software to read VW specific codes,
4 days ago I reread pertinent voltages of many, many wires,
2 days ago I binge watched every video I could find on spark and fuel delivery,
Today I inserted a 10 amp fuse in slot #32






MAF= mass air flow sensor? (I am very new to working on cars) That is connected in the black plastic flex tubing after the air filter but before the (throttle body?), right? I numbered and labeled the plugs I cut and pulled. I might not be able to tell what is what, but I have a good idea of where each one goes back. 

Also, the "fuel pump constant on" I mentioned before wasn't true. My ABS was/is (isn't fixed yet, just unplugged) shorted to ground. The black (motor?) off the aluminum ABS distribution block was buzzing and churning constantly. The ABS is right next to the fuel pump on my build and I mistook what I was hearing. But that's a problem for later.

There are holes in the exhaust and I'm pretty sure that is where the smoke is coming from but I'll have to look into that. The exhaust also smells a bit of gasoline, so I may not be firing on all cylinders (this is an extreme novice's speculation though). I drove this car once (to my dirt lot) and immediately disassembled it, so I don't know what the engine should sound like. The other problem is that I'm still getting error codes. 

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Wednesday, 15 October 2014, 19:53:22.
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FP
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V 4072
Software Coding: 00003
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 719556C728B1
Additional Info: 3VWRB69MX2M024443 VWZ7Z0A3848344
8 Faults Found:
18044 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Airbag Controller ----- unplugged, not to be reinstalled
16588 - injector circuit cylinder #4
16585 - injector circuit cylinder #1
16587 - injector circuit cylinder #3
16586 - injector circuit cylinder #2
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller ----- unplugged right now
17967 - Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings
17972 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting

--------------------------------------

I'm overjoyed with the results I have gotten, but more work is still to be done. 

1. I cleared and rescanned a few times, but the injector circuit faults kept coming back. Are they a time dependent error (like drive x number of miles without incident) or do I likely still have problems with the injection?

2. The idle isn't pretty and, while the throttle works, it doesn't feel like I expected it to. I've held off on the registered version of VCDS (budget is dwindling) and will get it if I _need_ to, but is their an alternative solution? Should I be required to upgrade to the registered version, is this the procedure I would follow? Off of memory, using the torque pro app I think I remember my throttle being at 30% without the pedal pushed. I could be wrong on that though and will check again on my next visit to the shop.

3. I was leery of using "proper procedures" because those seem to require the partial removal of the intake manifold. Is there a gasket or some other one-use-life item that is destroyed by partial removal of the intake manifold? I'd love to pull those plugs and give them a once over, but I went with a less invasive procedure and sided with caution.


Thanks all,
Tanner Frisby


----------



## Anony00GT (Mar 6, 2002)

As I stated earlier, check the fuel pump relay and it's associated wiring for the injector circuit codes.

Yes you NEED the registered VCDS to do the throttle adaptation, and yes that's the correct procedure. There is no other way. Sometimes people get lucky pulling the battery or doing the chicken dance next to the car, or whatever. The only right way to do it is with VCDS.

You can get the plugs out without removing the upper intake plenum. If you do pull it though, the gasket is re-usable as long as it's not torn or anything.

Just out of curiosity, what are you trying to accomplish with this build?


----------



## Tanner Frisby (May 13, 2014)

Well, after cycling the car on and off, I left the battery plugged in for nearly 50 minutes as the pump sporadically pumped and the throttle sporadically beeped and actuated. After the 50 minutes the car seemed sated. Restarting the car showed a vast improvement. The engine sounds much better and the volume of exhaust produced is magnitudes larger (at idle and on the pedal). I'd guess this is the throttle auto-adjust, but I'm just guessing. I later bought the registered version of VCDS. Here are the engine error codes directly after registering the software:

8 Faults Found:
18044 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Airbag Controller
P1636 - 35-00 - -
16588 - Injector: Cylinder 4 (N33): Circuit Malfunction
P0204 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16585 - Injector: Cylinder 1 (N30): Circuit Malfunction
P0201 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16587 - Injector: Cylinder 3 (N32): Circuit Malfunction
P0203 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16586 - Injector: Cylinder 2 (N31): Circuit Malfunction
P0202 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-00 - -
17967 - Throttle Body (J338): Fault in basic settings
P1559 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17972 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting
P1564 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101


The TBA (throttle body alignment) went really fast (compared to the 50 minutes) and I didn't get a great view of it, but the idle changed from 18% ish to 15% ish and I forget on the other. I don't know what it was before the car's 50 min tune up, but I assume it was very different as the idle was rough and would sometimes choke itself out. After performing the TBA :



2 Faults Found:
18044 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from Airbag Controller
P1636 - 35-00 - -
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101


It looks like the TBA took care of all the errors (ABS and Airbags are currently not hooked up, so I expected those erros).




Anony00GT said:


> Just out of curiosity, what are you trying to accomplish with this build?


Now that's a tough one. Well the short is that I want to learn how cars work and a great way to learn that is to take a car apart. I better way is to then try and build a car off what you learned taking it apart. Heck, before this summer (when I dove in the deep end) I hadn't ever changed my own oil. Now what kind of a sad mechanical engineer (undergraduate) does that make me. Also, my insurance went through the roof after a recent late night birthday joy ride. My college opens up an aerospace department runway once a month or so and lets the students race there. Should have left the adrenaline runs to the closed courses, but live and learn. I watched a few too many Mighty Car Mods, Eric The Car Guy and Fast and Furious videos and came up with my solution: buy a dirt cheap beater car, take it apart for parts and scratch build a decent car (keeping the beater car VIN number for insurance reasons) and get her road worthy and registered before my ticket hits my next insurance billing cycle. It's been a fun ride but I've still got 2 months to go and plenty to do. I started with a very small budget and a very large list of things I would want in a car. Both have shrunk nearly proportionally as the build progresses. I've got the full project on the Jetta MK4 forum here. Hundreds of pictures and a bunch of writing for those who actually read posts (I feel like my posts only get_ read_ by NSA bots most of the time).

Thanks to all who helped me with my engine problems, it is much appreciated. 
Tanner Frisby


----------



## Dancehall-Ape (Mar 15, 2014)

Tanner Frisby said:


>



Back in the day, my body shop instructor told us students; that in the automotive field, learning has its trials and terrors.

But I think your holding your own personal terror-dome here. :what:

Live- Learn- And don't forget! :thumbup:


----------



## fathi mohamed (Mar 6, 2016)

Cyl.(1-4), Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit


----------

