# 1.8t oil pump conversion kit



## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

Has anyone done the 1.8t oil pump conversion kit from USP motorsports?

Balance shafts failed on my MKV GTI on my used oil pump (they failed on the stock one last summer). It has 101,000 miles on it, I was looking to get rid of it this summer. Beyond selling it back to the dealer for basically scrap value, there's no way I want to pay them $2500 to put in a new oil pump.

How many hours typically does this take? They are willing to give me 7 hours free off the books since the used one failed so soon. They are willing to try this kit if I order it and drop it off.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

kjstech said:


> Has anyone done the 1.8t oil pump conversion kit from USP motorsports?
> 
> Balance shafts failed on my MKV GTI on my used oil pump (they failed on the stock one last summer). It has 101,000 miles on it, I was looking to get rid of it this summer. Beyond selling it back to the dealer for basically scrap value, there's no way I want to pay them $2500 to put in a new oil pump.
> 
> How many hours typically does this take? They are willing to give me 7 hours free off the books since the used one failed so soon. They are willing to try this kit if I order it and drop it off.


Some people with the 1.8t conversion have reported oil pressure problems only solved by going back to stock pump.
My balance shafts seized a couple months ago. I decided to delete them rather then risk the same thing happening with a used pump.
Unfortunately I've been to lazy to reinstall so I can't report on the results.
If you don't want to do the delete yourself you can buy a used pump from http://iabedindustries.com with it already done.

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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

I see some used parts out there as well like in the $250-$300 range. Can't vouch for their longevity. All balance shaft intact.


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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

The one from iabedindustries is $450 shipped. Is it installed identically to the stock oil pump? Just the input shaft isn’t connected to the balance shaft? Would the dealer be able to figure that out?


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

kjstech said:


> The one from iabedindustries is $450 shipped. Is it installed identically to the stock oil pump? Just the input shaft isn’t connected to the balance shaft? Would the dealer be able to figure that out?


Yes, it would installed like normal.
There will be increased engine vibrations but from what I read it isn't bad.

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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

Don't do the 1.8T conversion. In addition to oil pressure issues like mentioned above there is also the fact that the balance shaft performs an important function in relation to the crank and the lack of a balance shaft is not going to do your car any favors in the long-term. The install requires a good deal of custom work so it will take quite a bit of labor time, although 7 hours free labor is pretty damn good; for a very experienced mechanic comfortable with some custom fab 7 hours would be pretty close to enough time to do it imo. But if they are willing to cover 7 hours of labor why not just get a used stock pump off a part-out car or one of the sites mentioned above and have them install that. They can't possibly be saying it's gonna take them much more than 7 hours to do that job?


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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

I see some used part sites and ebay part car options, 06-08 oil pumps from $200-$400. Just have to have it work enough so I can sell it. They offered me $500 for the car as-is. NADA trade in range is 1750-2500 in fair condition. Private party sale in fair condition is $3900 -$4500.

I have to wait until Monday to discuss options. I originally towed it to a local VW specialty shop for an oil leak. The oil pan had a crack in it. He claims it wasn’t installed properly but he didn’t tear down past the pan further to really investigate. There was A stray loose bolt in the pan that must have cracked it. There’s another bolt in there sheered off. He told me this and I said the dealer just put a used pump on in August. We agreed they should make it right. The dealer towed it to their shop at no cost to me. Dealer said the same thing happened as last time. Balance shaft froze up again. It was from an 08’ Audi that had the piston ring oil consumption issue. He gave me the pump and head from that car last summer.

I’m at a loss here. How can it happen twice. I’m just turned off of the brand right now.

Dealer is $109 an hour. He’s willing to work some of that off. VW specialty shop is $89 an hour.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

Unfortunately owning a 10 year old turbo VW isn't a financially wise thing to do unless you work on the car yourself.
I basically had the same engine failure happen to me and when I'm done I will have spent less then $100.

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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

It’s part number 06B 103 535 F right? There’s a few wreaked cars being parted out online. I’d be willing to get a used one to get the car running so I can sell it.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

06D103295F
06D103295J
06D103295K
06D103295R
06D103295S
www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/oil-pump/06d103295s/

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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

quietA3 hit the nail on the head... you’re turned off from the brand because, honestly, a majority of platforms under this brand are not financially savvy past ~100K miles/~8yrs (sometimes sooner) unless you do your own work or you owned the vehicle from the start and were extremely religious about maintenance and keeping an eye/ear on everything from day one. Even then it’s a gamble. There are plenty of redeeming reasons some of us choose these cars but if you want an A-to-B, reliable, affordable-maintenance car when you get through with selling this VW get a Toyota or Honda (other options for sure but those are two good ones). Don’t get VAG, don’t get German.


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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

Yeah as much as I like the look of the Mercedes CLA250, I’m not buying German. May buy the Mazda CX-5 I test drove today. Then I could take the dog with me in my car, vs using the wife’s Pathfinder. Also looking at an 2017 Elantra Sport 1.6t and there’s also a nice Nissan Maxima in Philadelphia for sale, but I’m shying away from it for the premium gas and insurance costs.

I’m going to see about getting a USED pump, not that $1600+ new one. I just need it working enough to sell it on Craigslist.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

If you want my opinion, go Mazda. Can't go wrong with Jap for overall A-to-B reliability and minimal upkeep; I'd try to avoid Korean when it comes to the cheaper end models. Obviously Nissan can make some nice higher end stuff but I'm not sold on the lower end models. But I'm much more knowledgeable in the German sector so don't just take my word for it, do some reading.

Good luck with the pump situation!


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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

Thy_Harrowing said:


> If you want my opinion, go Mazda. Can't go wrong with Jap for overall A-to-B reliability and minimal upkeep; I'd try to avoid Korean when it comes to the cheaper end models. Obviously Nissan can make some nice higher end stuff but I'm not sold on the lower end models. But I'm much more knowledgeable in the German sector so don't just take my word for it, do some reading.
> 
> Good luck with the pump situation!


Hey thanks for your advice. You conversed with me a bit on here last summer when the car started falling apart. Not sure if you remember it all started with an underboost code and noisy turbo last April. It was in and out of the dealer and finally got the car back in mid August. 

I’m leaning towards the Mazda CX-5 for practicality. We have a Burmese mountain dog, about 88 lbs. Two kids ages 2 and 5. The oldest will start kindergarten this fall, which is when I was originally going to sell the GTI and get a newer car (one less daycare expense would cover a payment). I got the GTI in 2009 with around 15,000 miles on it. It’s been long paid off and enjoyed one less car payment for awhile. We survived with a small two door car because my wife always had the bigger car (first a Ford Escape, now a Nissan Pathfinder).

So times change and though I wanted to hold out until
late August, our tax refund will go down on something now and hopefully we can get the GTI fixed and sold leaving more than just $500 in my pocket.

Thanks!


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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

quietA3guy said:


> 06D103295F
> 06D103295J
> 06D103295K
> 06D103295R
> ...



From all my research part number 06B 103 535 F keeps coming up for 06 - 08 BPY engines. Found a few on eBay, going to buy one and have dealer put it in.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

kjstech said:


> From all my research part number 06B 103 535 F keeps coming up for 06 - 08 BPY engines. Found a few on eBay, going to buy one and have dealer put it in.


Yes i just checked. That is the same number on my 2005 built fsi.
The number I gave you is a revised part number.









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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

Ok thanks. Here’s some pics of mine. No idea why the chain is rubbing like that. Could it have been installed wrong? Or does it push out when the balance shaft seizes?



















And oddly a bolt was just floating in the pan. 










There’s the small hole in the pan


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

kjstech said:


> Ok thanks. Here’s some pics of mine. No idea why the chain is rubbing like that. Could it have been installed wrong? Or does it push out when the balance shaft seizes?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My chain rubbed in the same spot. When the balance shafts seize the bolt holding the sprocket on shears allowing the sprocket to pull away from the engine and the chain rubs.









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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

It’s amazing it didn’t make any strange noises and it still allowed the motor to run. I’d think the crank sprocket would have been bogged down causing the engine to not turn over. Also as long as there was oil in it, no oil pressure warning.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

My car was running fine when I found this. The only reason I dropped the oil pan was because I was trying to find the source of a chain rattle at idle. If this solves the rattle, then it likely means I've been driving with it like this for more then 20k km.

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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

So how in the heck are we getting oil pressure? Only found this because it threw a bolt into the pan creating a small slit to cause an oil leak.

So if the balance shaft locks up, does the power of the crank on the chain drive to the oil pump have so much torque on it, that it breaks away from the balance shaft assembly, allowing it to continue to freely rotate and pump oil?

Thats just so strange.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

Yes. When the sprocket pulls away from the engine it is still wedged in place by the chain tensioner. As crazy as it sounds, the chain is still able to spin at thousands of rpm and drive the oil pump even though the balance shaft sprocket isn't connected to anything.

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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

Got the new pump in the mail today. It turns nice and smooth. Which way should the balance weights be facing in relation to the engine crank position? My last oil pump was from a 2008 Audi A4 and it only lasted 6 months. Do you think it could have had premature failure because the balance shaft was turned wrong so it had excessive vibration and ended up seizing?


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

kjstech said:


> Got the new pump in the mail today. It turns nice and smooth. Which way should the balance weights be facing in relation to the engine crank position? My last oil pump was from a 2008 Audi A4 and it only lasted 6 months. Do you think it could have had premature failure because the balance shaft was turned wrong so it had excessive vibration and ended up seizing?


Yes. Must be installed at TDC. 
Post 6 step 10 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?p=86460629

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## kjstech (Jul 25, 2017)

quietA3guy said:


> Yes. Must be installed at TDC.
> Post 6 step 10 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?p=86460629
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Perfect, thanks!


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## kjr6306 (Sep 12, 2007)

Don't let anyone tell you the 1.8 pump conversion is bad for you car. The conversion can easily be done for less than $150 in parts if you just purchase them individually. I have 15K miles on my pump conversion and the engine runs like new.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

kjr6306 said:


> Don't let anyone tell you the 1.8 pump conversion is bad for you car. The conversion can easily be done for less than $150 in parts if you just purchase them individually. I have 15K miles on my pump conversion and the engine runs like new.



LOL 15K is really not much to base anything on, let's talk in 50K. I mean, for people that want to do the conversion just to keep the car running awhile longer it gets the job done and I'd say go for it, but for those that have long-term aspirations for the car it's foolish. The FACT is that the 1.8T pump is designed to specifications for a different motor and oil pressure and delivery will be different then was intended for the 2.0T. Not significant enough to have serious problems, not even significant enough to have minor problems anytime particularly soon if you're driving and otherwise maintaining the vehicle responsibly. But long-term there will be consequences just as there aren't short-term consequences for using subpar synthetic oils b/c they are synthetic but long-term they largely don't compare to high-end group IV synthetic oils. You don't see the difference anytime soon but it is guaranteed in the long-term nonetheless. This is, of course, saying nothing of running the motor without a balance shaft it was designed to have. Can you do it? Sure. is it gonna break anything soon? No. Is it wise long-term? Not really. People are too quick to think "Oh it's done fine for the last 6 months [or year or two], it's obviously good forever"... that's naive and a huge, faulty leap in logic. 

There are people who know their stuff who've posted information on what happens long-term with those pumps in the 2.0T. It may used to have been up for debate but it's really not anymore.


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## kjr6306 (Sep 12, 2007)

Total BS.....pump is fine. Car runs smooth and the pressure is fine.


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

kjr6306 said:


> Total BS.....pump is fine. Car runs smooth and the pressure is fine.


Facts of engineering/design specification aren't BS... but carry on.


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## quietA3guy (Oct 12, 2007)

kjr6306 said:


> Total BS.....pump is fine. Car runs smooth and the pressure is fine.


Just want to clarify for anyone coming across this thread in the future.
The above poster did have an error for low oil pressure after switching to the 1.8t pump.



kjr6306 said:


> I have 3 Passat's. All have the same issues you described. The first one I bought had 166K miles on it. The oil pump was seized, timing chains broken, turbo shot and fuel pump follower shot. after fixing all the problems and getting car back on the road the oil sensor light would go off consistently after the car was up to temp. I drove the car for several thousand miles and after 2 oil changes the light stopped going off. I have put over 15K miles on that one with no issues.
> 
> *The second one I bought had 112k on it when i got it. Same issues. Decided to do a 1.8 pump conversion on this one and not have to deal with the balance shafts on the 2.0 oil pump. Got it all together and guess what....? Oil pressure light comes on after it gets to temp. Same exact issue. Light always comes on from 15-1800 RPM. gain I drove the car for several thousand miles. Tried different oil viscosity with no change. Finally got sick of the light and warning siren coming on so I decided to rectify the issue. If you are sure you are getting adequate oil pressure, replace the oil pressure sending unit with a lower threshold switch. Part # 038 919 081 K. This is a lower bar switch with a single wire. If you have the dual wire switch you will have to figure out the wiring. Should be as simple as grounding one of the wires.
> *I have put another 12K miles on this Passat with no issues. Car/engine runs smooth as silk.
> ...


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## kjr6306 (Sep 12, 2007)

I want to clarify that there are no issues with the 1.8T conversion. Other folks quote facts of engineering and design with no knowledge of either. The 1.8T is a solid conversion if you want to get rid of the problematic balance shafts of don't want to spend 1500 for a new 2.0 FSI pump. The 1.8 conversion can be be done for less than 150 bucks and works just fine. 13k miles now since conversion and no issues.....


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## Thy_Harrowing (Dec 7, 2014)

kjr6306 said:


> I want to clarify that there are no issues with the 1.8T conversion. Other folks quote facts of engineering and design with no knowledge of either. The 1.8T is a solid conversion if you want to get rid of the problematic balance shafts of don't want to spend 1500 for a new 2.0 FSI pump. The 1.8 conversion can be be done for less than 150 bucks and works just fine. 13k miles now since conversion and no issues.....


LOL! You're hilarious. I've been in mechanical engineering and am now in software engineering with one of the largest and most recognized technology firms in the world. I know both hardware and software and I apply that knowledge/experience to my thorough understanding of how these cars work as a passion and hobby, yes, from an engineering and design standpoint because that is concrete, empirical fact, which apparently you dismiss haphazardly in favor of your personal experience of a mere 13k (which I should add didn't start out quite as smooth as you would claim according to the post A3guy pulled up). You just slapped a band-aid on your car, albeit a decent band-aid if you just want the car to run for awhile, but it's a band-aid at the end of the day and it's not wise long-term for reasons already stated (again, based on engineering/design FACT). Like I said, 13k miles is great... let's talk again at 30k, maybe 50k if it's still running. For some that may be enough to be worth it. Maybe that's all they want. I've already said that people can and maybe should do the 1.8T conversion if they want to get the car running for awhile longer with, probably, no immediate issues, but long-term it's unwise. IF you plan to have your car long-term you will find this out later and may regret not having listened to someone who knows what they are talking about.

I'll leave it at that, I have nothing more to say and am not going to fuel an argument over this. People with oil pump problems who come across this thread in the future will have to consider how long they want the car to be running reliably to make a decision, as well as determine for themselves whether they want to take consideration of the differing engineering and design specifications/characteristics of the 2.0T pump/motor vs the 1.8T pump/motor more seriously than your anecdotal "evidence". I know which one I would heed...


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## kjr6306 (Sep 12, 2007)

I paid 800 bucks for this car and put a 150 dollar 1.8 pump conversion in it. I have driven 13k miles.....you figure it out if that m makes sense.

For most on here with the 2.0 FSI engine they will be glad to get another 13k out of their car for 150 bucks in lieu of spending 1300 on a new FSI oil pump. Common sense trumps your classroom engineering piece of paper all day long....


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## sootmonster (Nov 6, 2019)

Just came across this thread, was well amused reading this, recently bought a mk5 GTI which had 1.8T oil pump conversion done, just wanted to know how is the car going for the guy above? Is it still running smooth and stuff? Ty


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