# My Build - Up and Running :-)



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

2002 VW GTI 1.8t

Engine:
* IE 19mm Rods w/ rifle drilling
* OEM Rings/ OEM Pistons
* Calico Crank Bearings
* Near new 06A Block, Cleaned, Honed, and Dipped
* Garrett GT2871 w/ standard housing(replaced Garrett GT2560 from APR stg3) 
* Forge 007 Diverter Valve
* APR Inconel Stg3 Exhaust Manifold
* APR Stg3 Intake Pipe (powder coated blue, + APR Heat Shield)
* 3" Rubber Cobrahead -> APR stg3 upturn intake pipe (ceramic coated black)
* APR Stg3 Silicone Intake
* APR Stg3 MAF Housing + Air Horn in stock airbox (MAF housing powdercoated blue)
* ITG stock airbox Air Filter
* APR Silicone Turbo -> Pancake
* APR Silicone Pancake -> FMIC
* APR Silicone FMIC -> Waterbottle Area
* Custom Welded Aluminum Pipe Waterbottle Area -> Throttle Body
* INA 90 degree 3" -> 2.5" taper Throttle Body Adapter
* APR 'U' FMIC* Custom Waterproof MAP Connector (APR style likes to break) pigtail to soldered MAP @ FMIC bottom
* INA 70mm Throttle Body (from RS4) + Adapter
* Thermotech sleeving for water hoses and oil lines (near hot stuff)
* Custom Throttle Body Gasket INA adapter -> RMR Manifold
* RMR small port intake Manifold
* 42DD Inline Vacuum Manifold
* Painless Performance Circuit Breaker/ Fuse Block/ Ignition Relay (Every device on its own circuit...my last car burnt down due to electrical. NOT GOING TO HAPPEN AGAIN!)
* Labonte Motorsports 30PSI Map based Water/ Meth
* 830cc Genesis injectors
* Unitronics 830 MAF'less tune (setup for 70mm TB, RMR intake mani, and meth)
* Greddy Profec Spec S EBC
* ARP Head Studs* Summit Racing -6AN Adapters and OEM line adapters for fueling
* Summit Racing AQP fuel lines
* IE Manual Timing Belt Kit
* RMR Fuel Rail + RMR FPR adapter w/ OEM 3Bar FPR
* Innovative Motorsports LC1 + G5 Gauge
* 42DD Boost Gauge Restrictor
* 42DD Catch Can w/ Mk4 bracket + IE -10AN Valve Cover Adapter + IE Block Breather Adapter
* All vacuum lines are 3mm and 5mm black silicone from forcefed engineering
* 034 Street Series Dogbone + Motor Mounts
* Autotech Peg Vernier Adjustable Cam
* Custom 3" Exhaust w/ resonator, borla exhaust, and stock cat
* Valve cover off AWW (screw down coil pack style) Powdercoated blue @ Specialized Coatings, Huntington Beach, CA
* Quaife LSD in O2J
* Metal water pump
* Fluidampr Pulley
* Raxles


Suspension
* Bilstein sport shocks and struts
* Eibach Sport Springs (1" drop)
* R32 Front and Rear control arm bushings
* R32 Strut Bushings


Wheels/ Tires
*225/40R-18 Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport XL Tires
*OZ Superlegerra 18" Wheels w/ gloss dark machine grey powder coating (Specialized Coatings, Huntington Beach, CA)

Body
* 20AE Body Kit (to be installed soon) (Reflex Silver)
* Crystal Clear Side Markers
* Head dipped and all valve seats replaced and rehoned
* Helix Glass replacement headlight lenses
* Blue tinted aspheric rear view mirrors
* Tinted Windows all around
* Bosal Hidden Hitch (Yes, my GTI tows my catamaran)

Interior/ Stereo
* 20AE Aluminum Trim all around
* New South Performance Column Pod
* New South Performance Vent Pod
* Innovative G5 AF gauge (in vent pod)
* VDO Vision Series Vac/ Boost Gauge in Column Pod. (w/ 42dd perfect match blue LED)
* TUA-T550HD HD Radio
* Alpine 150.4 Amplifier (installed where old monsoon amp went)
* Single DIN cubbie on top of radio
* Focal 165A1 Access 6.5 Two-Way Component System (front doors)
* Dampifier Pro in all doors and body panels
* Alpine CDA-9887 head unit
* Alpine iPod cable + RCA-> Mini cable routed to inside of armrest


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

:beer:


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## iTech (Dec 29, 2008)

Looks great ...glad to see it up and moving.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

First impressions?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

First impressions

First of all...wow! Holy crap.

I've been driving a 1987 GTI with a 16V and then I get back into this after 6 weeks.

Ok, after that little bit of wow factor wears off I blew the hose off my throttle body (AKA no boost).

So I'm driving around with no TB hose on and the car still moves great. How can this tune work just sooo well with no MAP, no MAF, just off the O2 sensor? This Uni 830 MAFless file is really magic. 

Ok, so I put the TB hose back on and do some more driving. I have the greddy ProfecS controller set to about 8 PSI while I troubleshoot and test it out. Car moves great at 8 PSI. But it does feel a bit bogged. I have an innovative wideband gauge and at WOT, 6000 RPM, 8 PSI I'm at about 12:1 A:F ratio. Is that right'ish?

Also, under boost there is a pulsating thumping like under my dash??? Weird.

I loaned out my VagCom to a forum member, so as soon as I get it back I'll run some logs and start dialing it in a bit.

But I'm very very happy overall.

BTW...the girlfriend thinks I went off the deep end on this and is questioning my sanity. Last night she saw the engine for the first time in 2 months. (A lot has changed, lol). She also asked how much I spent on this ....yeah...not gonna answer that one.


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## inivid (Aug 25, 2003)

never seen that vacuum mani before. that's a pimp looking piece. :thumbup:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Unless she's your wife I wouldn't answer sh!t, hahhaaa


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Sad to say this in a build thread, but you officially, as of turning the car on, owe her big time :vampire:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

inivid said:


> never seen that vacuum mani before. that's a pimp looking piece. :thumbup:


42DD Inline vac mani


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

groggory said:


> BTW...the girlfriend thinks I went off the deep end on this and is questioning my sanity. Last night she saw the engine for the first time in 2 months. (A lot has changed, lol). She also asked how much I spent on this ....yeah...not gonna answer that one.


LOL, I'm very lucky with my wife she has been letting me spend a bunch of money, in fact last month she let me order an early Christmas present a 70mm TB along with a SEM intake from Isaam... It was funny last winter she went to work on a saturday and when she got home I had my engine and tranny out along with the wiring harness layed over my drivers fender, she walked in looked at it and turned around and left... She never thought I'd get it running again, LOL... Car Halls A$$... Anyway Glad to see you get it running, its a wonderful feeling:thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Having a weird problem. Sometimes I'll come up to a red light and sit there and the RPM will hover around 2000 RPM for about 10 seconds. Then drop down to my normal idle of 800 or so. Really weird. Anyone have any idea what this could be?

PS.. Running Unitronic 830 software + RS4/ 70mm TB


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

groggory said:


> Having a weird problem. Sometimes I'll come up to a red light and sit there and the RPM will hover around 2000 RPM for about 10 seconds. Then drop down to my normal idle of 800 or so. Really weird. Anyone have any idea what this could be?
> 
> PS.. Running Unitronic 830 software + RS4/ 70mm TB


You hearing any exhaust leaks? I have this problem occasionally.


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## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Dub-Nub said:


> You hearing any exhaust leaks? I have this problem occasionally.


I haven't done the ol' seafoam test yet, but when I had it up on the lift I didn't feel any air coming out.

I was actually thinking about replacing the o2 sensor anyways. The one in there is stock (aka 120,000 mi old)

Also, on a sidenote, I went into the dealer with my shop discount and asked for a front O2 sensor. Apparently volkswagen changed to an 'o2 sensor kit' which retails for $270. The shop tech didn't understand it and I wouldn't buy it, lol. An o2 sensor should have a wholesale rate of around $35


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## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

I'm on Eurodyne and I sometimes have the same throttle hang as your having... Don't know what it would be from, cuz I guarantee I don't have an exhaust leak or any problem like that:banghead: My primary sensor was 60 bucks from local parts store here, its a bosch also


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## Crazy Al 91 (Aug 13, 2008)

more pics?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Congrats on getting it running.:beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Dirty engine bay... 

But new parts  

IE -10AN valve cover adapter + Jegs 45 deg -10AN AQP adapter 
42dd Stealth Catch Can in Wrinkle Black w/ drain & mk4 mounting bracket 

& partially fixed a ground issues on my valve cover. :-( The valve cover is still 1.2V at idle instead of 0V. Not sure what's going on here. 

On to the pics...


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## Crazy Al 91 (Aug 13, 2008)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## sabbySC (Dec 29, 2009)

:beer: very nice :beer:


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## TheBossQ (Aug 15, 2009)

groggory said:


> partially fixed a ground issues on my valve cover. :-( The valve cover is still 1.2V at idle instead of 0V. Not sure what's going on here.


 Where are you taking your measurements? By the look of it, the entire valve cover is painted.


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## khemiicalz (Mar 25, 2009)

total noob question, whats this whole rifle drilling stuff?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

TheBossQ said:


> Where are you taking your measurements? By the look of it, the entire valve cover is painted.


 It's powder coated. All sealing surfaces, the bottom of all screw heads, and of course the entire bottom is not powder coated. 

I'm measuring at the screw location that the coil pack harness screws into. 

rifle drilling : rifle drilling refers to a small hole going from the big end, to the small end. the purpose is to provide pressurised oil to the wrist pin bushing, this gives it less wear on the bushing and can prevent wrist pin bushing wear.


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

as "ricey" as it's gonna sound have you tired making a grounding kit for your car? I had a small rev hang even with my stock turbo when coming to red light. Got a bunch of 0 guage wire and made a few more grounding straps and it cleared up the problem nicely. I followed the DIY from I believe izvw's site but it work out in clearing up small electrical issues I had, might wanna try that if you have some cable laying around. 

Also why keep the maf if your running a MAfless file?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Cryser said:


> as "ricey" as it's gonna sound have you tired making a grounding kit for your car? I had a small rev hang even with my stock turbo when coming to red light. Got a bunch of 0 guage wire and made a few more grounding straps and it cleared up the problem nicely. I followed the DIY from I believe izvw's site but it work out in clearing up small electrical issues I had, might wanna try that if you have some cable laying around.
> 
> Also why keep the maf if your running a MAfless file?


 Cause the MAFless file doesn't run quite right. I'm going to go down to exalt motorsports in san diego soon. Unitronics isn't sure why my mafless file is having some glitches 

As to the ground straps, I'm going to attach a wire from the valve cover -> trans bell housing today after work. The trans shows as a very good ground, so that should be a good grounding point.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:thumbup: i like the vacuum block


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## TheBossQ (Aug 15, 2009)

groggory said:


> As to the ground straps, I'm going to attach a wire from the valve cover -> trans bell housing today after work. The trans shows as a very good ground, so that should be a good grounding point.


 Good call. Ideally, all grounds should show 0v, but anything over .5v is considered a faulty ground. 1.2v would definitely concern me. 

I had the dimming lights and rpm drop when the car was coming to a stop and dropping back to idle. A couple additional grounds and the issue vanished.


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

groggory said:


> Cause the MAFless file doesn't run quite right. I'm going to go down to exalt motorsports in san diego soon. Unitronics isn't sure why my mafless file is having some glitches
> 
> As to the ground straps, I'm going to attach a wire from the valve cover -> trans bell housing today after work. The trans shows as a very good ground, so that should be a good grounding point.


 so wait your MAFless file runs noticeable different with the MAF plugged in and with it removed? 

if so something is fishy, a true MAFless file shouldn't even be accepting a MAF signal at all, as far as I know when you remove the MAF from a tune that table isn't referenced anymore by your ecu.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Cryser said:


> so wait your MAFless file runs noticeable different with the MAF plugged in and with it removed?
> 
> if so something is fishy, a true MAFless file shouldn't even be accepting a MAF signal at all, as far as I know when you remove the MAF from a tune that table isn't referenced anymore by your ecu.


 Yes, it runs differently with the MAF plugged in. My fuel mileage drops, my butt dyno gives me lower numbers, my wideband gauge is steadier at idle and reacts faster to stoch after coming to a stop at a red light (after running lean as I decelerate).


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Engine (and car) is clean. Fixed the grounding problem with a wire from valve cover -> bell housing. Cleaned up some wiring near the w/m pump.


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## Dameon (Oct 6, 2008)

How hard was it to install the IE Valve cover fitting? Looks goods. :thumbup::beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

nebio_b5 said:


> How hard was it to install the IE Valve cover fitting? Looks goods. :thumbup::beer:


 The OEM fitting came off pretty easy. I put a pair of channel locks on it and wiggled it out. No problem. 

The IE valve cover fitting fits TIGHT. And yes, I do mean tight. But tight is good. Tight means it'll make a good seal and no slippery stuff will slide out. Also, it means that when you screw a big -10AN fitting on it won't rotate as you snug it down. 

My method was a two parter. First, I took a stubby screwdriver with a beefy handle. I put the stubby screwdriver down the middle of the fitting..then took a hammer and tried tapping it in (which destroyed the plastic part of the screwdriver). This kind of worked... 
Then I took a piece of 2x4 pine and hammered on it using that. I really had to hammer hard to make it fit in. It eventually went most of the way in... 
Then I went back to the screwdriver method and pounded it in the rest of the way. 

Not super hard, not super easy. I think IE should make a video of them installing one, put it on youtube, and put it on the product page. I'm sure they have a better method than I used. I didn't like whacking my valve cover as hard as I had to.


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

groggory said:


> Not super hard, not super easy. I think IE should make a video of them installing one, put it on youtube, and put it on the product page. I'm sure they have a better method than I used. I didn't like whacking my valve cover as hard as I had to.


 but when in doubt use a bigger ****ing hammer has always worked for me!  

looks great, grog.. question for ya, where is your DV coming off of? hotside on the IC pipping or did you just snake that silicone hose and place it there from the cold side?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Cryser said:


> but when in doubt use a bigger ****ing hammer has always worked for me!
> 
> looks great, grog.. question for ya, where is your DV coming off of? hotside on the IC pipping or did you just snake that silicone hose and place it there from the cold side?


 Apr silicone compressor hose has a nipple on it with a m-m fitting. You then run a straight silicone tube up to the bottom of the dv.
The other side of the dv attaches to a bung on tip with a windy piece of silicone

Oh, regarding the bigger hammer comment... Yeah, went on easier when I pulled out the 2lbs hammer instead of the 12oz


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## MEGA 16v GLI (Aug 31, 2010)

Very nice build man! Awesome to see you running the innovate LC-1 and G5, Good choice with airbox/airfilter. ITG is the way to go. How beneficial would you say the Meth injection system is? they sound awesome. What octane fuel to you run?


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

MEGA 16v GLI said:


> Very nice build man! Awesome to see you running the innovate LC-1 and G5, Good choice with airbox/airfilter. ITG is the way to go. How beneficial would you say the Meth injection system is? they sound awesome. What octane fuel to you run?


 I am now running a Podi digital dual gauge setup. Fuel pressure on top and AFR on the bottom. AFR is still generated by the LC-1. 

Love the ITG filter. However, cleaning it is more of a pain than with the K&N. 

Meth injection is awesome. Meth injection + thick intake manifold spacer is awesome++. Makes a huge difference. 

I'm running California 91 octane.


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Why is this the first time im seeing this?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Mindfault said:


> Why is this the first time im seeing this?


 Lol, seeing what?


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## Don® (Oct 11, 2011)

Yeah, this is the 1st time I'm seeing this as well.


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## MEGA 16v GLI (Aug 31, 2010)

You can pick up the exact same bosch 02 sensor that the innovate wideband comes with from oreilly for like $50. Make sure you do a free air calibration (the 02 sensor must be out of the exhaust bung). Its very important that you ground the ECU and wideband at the exact same location (on Head or block). The 02 heater ground does not have to be grounded at the same place but the 02 signal ground and ECU must be grounded at the same place. The 02 will send false data to the ECU if grounding is not done correctly. 

Im sure Unitronic is an awesome system but have you ever looked into Mega-Squirt? I like MS because you have the abilitly to learn a hole lot about tuning and do all of the tuning on the street where i believe tuning/Data logging is done most accurately.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

MEGA 16v GLI said:


> You can pick up the exact same bosch 02 sensor that the innovate wideband comes with from oreilly for like $50. Make sure you do a free air calibration (the 02 sensor must be out of the exhaust bung). Its very important that you ground the ECU and wideband at the exact same location (on Head or block). The 02 heater ground does not have to be grounded at the same place but the 02 signal ground and ECU must be grounded at the same place. The 02 will send false data to the ECU if grounding is not done correctly.
> 
> Im sure Unitronic is an awesome system but have you ever looked into Mega-Squirt? I like MS because you have the abilitly to learn a hole lot about tuning and do all of the tuning on the street where i believe tuning/Data logging is done most accurately.


 California is a real bitch when it comes to dealing with stand alone on a car requiring obd2 compliance


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## teamx (Mar 6, 2011)

Great write up. 

I'm sure there's tons that have changed since you started the thread. Did you manage to get the MAFless file to run correctly? Didn't see any mention of this.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

teamx said:


> Great write up.
> 
> I'm sure there's tons that have changed since you started the thread. Did you manage to get the MAFless file to run correctly? Didn't see any mention of this.


If I unplug the MAF my ASR stops working and I get a MAF error code thrown. Unitronic is sure I have the right file and that there's no issues after a few tech support phone and email sessions with them...so I chalked it up to good enough.

Yes, quite a bit has changed. Maybe I'll get back on this thread sometime and put up new pictures and updated descriptions.


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## teamx (Mar 6, 2011)

No worries, was just curious. Locally we have a few BT Unitronic cars running MAFless setups with no problems, guess its just the nature of modding. 

Thanks for the quick response


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

would be cool to see some updated photos and info about this car. its come a long way since vw minted it back in the day. :thumbup:


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Haven't seen this before. Where have I been?

More pics with updates Grog.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Ok, time for some updates to the build...

Awhile back 42dd made me a custom downpipe to mate up with their 3" turbo back exhaust. An ATP 5 bolt to vband adapter bolted up to the turbo, then the downpipe v-band'd onto that, then swoops down in a nice mandrel bend to mate up with their turbo back. This is all well and good except I didn't realize my shift cable (one of them specifically) would rub on the downpipe. This got so hot that it melted the shift cable all the way to the core through two layers of metal weave and heat sleeving! <<<insert pics>>>

Then on top of that, the v-band adapter had come loose and caused an exhaust leak. That exhaust leak blasted my bolts/ studs and I ended up breaking a grade 10 allen bolt in the exhaust housing. I was unsuccessful in removing that. <<insert pics>>>

The shift cable problem I mentioned earlier caused me to misshift if I really was pushing the transmission. In particular, I missed a high RPM 1-2 shift (~7500 RPM) which caused my 1st gear to get locked out somehow. It didn't even make sense after pulling the trans apart what had happened.

So with that all said, some fixes and upgrades are in order.

Vband adapter is not attached to the turbo with flyin miata m8x1.25 studs + nissan t25 5-bolt gasket + stage 8 fasteners. The one exception to that is the bottom middle hole on the adapter is a tight fit...only a 12mm head can fit there and there isn't enough clearance to get a bolt in there. So in its place I put an OEM exhaust manifold nut there. Oh, and the flyin miata studs were a bit too short to do what I needed to do. I took 0.100" off the adapter to make it all work (new thickness = 0.400 at flange.). If I were to do it again I would have taken 0.125 off so I'd have a BIT more thread showing off the top of the stage 8's.

Turbo is held to the exhaust manifold with a pag parts supplied t25 4-bolt stainless crush gasket + flexloc nuts. I was going to use a Nissan gasket here but there are backordered everywhere. I put an order in several weeks ago and it still hasn't arrived...oh well.

Trans has been pulled, new syncros put in for good measure, and all clearances have been checked. Trans looks like it's in good shape. I also put in a TDI 5th gear. I picked up a clutchnet stg2 pressure plate/ clutch and a 20 pound billet flywheel and secured it all with ARP hardware to the crank w/ friction disc under the bolt heads and OEM hardware for the pressure plate. Trans is being filled with Lubro Moly trans fluid.

Shift cables are being replaced and 2000F heat sleeving is going over them. I'm using some safety wire as a stand-off to keep them from TOUCHING the downpipe. Delrin inserts are being added to the shift linkage bracket on the transmission, new cable ends are being installed, and a TT short shift kit is being bolted onto the shift tower.

Added some TSI coils + INA v3 coil pack adapters + Tiguan coil pack harness. Threw in an overlay harness while I was at it to freshen it all up.

A fresh BFI stg1 dogbone insert set is going in the dogbone.

The Neuspeed strut tower brace was being held in by nutserts which have since become loose and make the brace downright pointless. I drilled those out and am now using M8x1.25" hex bolts + washers + split lock washers + hardened nuts.

Car is getting some fresh Motul 5w40 8100 oil and a new Mann filter.

Awhile back some BFI stg1 engine and trans mounts went in.

My 42dd can is getting some fresh hose set made for it that'll have a larger internal diameter. I really didn't like that heater hose very much. Seemed like it got kind of soft and junky looking over time. When all else fails, look to aerospace stuff right?

PCV hockey puck is being replaced with a similar version with larger diameter ends <insert old and new part numbers>

Exhaust manifold went off and on with OEM hardware. Two studs were pretty shaky and were replaced with deeper versions. I was considering time sert'ing the head, but I was afraid of doing it poorly being that the two problem studs were at the hardest to get to part of the head. The new nuts seemed to tighten up nicely though...so should be good.


I'll come back with pics later, but thought I'd follow up on what's been going on with this build.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)




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## teamx (Mar 6, 2011)

Wow man some really good work going on here.

Sent from my Xperia Z1


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)




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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

IE block adapter + -10an to -12an adapter + -12an 90deg 3/4" pushloc + 3/4" reinforced oil hose + 3/4" 90 deg fitting + 3/4" reinforced oil hose + 3/4" tee

IE valve cover adapter + -10an 45 deg 5/8" push loc + 5/8" reinforced oil hose + 5/8" barb to 3/4" barb adapter + 3/4" reinforced oil hose + 3/4" tee

3/4" tee + 3/4" oil hose

All connections secured with single use fold back stainless straps

... All this replaces my heater hose + heater hose fittings + screw clamps setup.

Heater hose sucks for catch can setups. Oil vapors seem to soften up that hose over time and it gets messy


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## Njegos18t (Jul 31, 2007)

sucks you live in california you have to keep all that dumb emission stuff in your bay:banghead:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Looking good bro!! I am in the process of having a AN coolant line setup designed to delete the heater core, overflow tank and oil cooler with an inline overflow for next year. When do you think you will have everything done by?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

All that should be done by tomorrow


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

Nice


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## .T.o.n.y. (Apr 3, 2003)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

Any updates Greg?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] Performance said:


> Any updates Greg?


Redid my PCV setup with new reinforced oil hose, nice clamps, metal hardware, etc...very nice.

Put a different PRV valve on because one of the openings was warped on mine (totally weird) and was blowing oil vapor crap on my TIP

Exhaust manifold, etc was pulled. 2 new studs put in head because two old studs seemed to have not been sealing right. Mani reinstalled after some scotch brite action.

Turbo reinstalled with a single layer stainless crush gasket from Pag parts (wanted to use the nissan gasket 14415-8H600 but it was on backorder). APR inconel studs are in manifold. Three flexloc M8x1.25 nuts and washers were used on three of them and one stage 8 setup was used on the last stud. OEM washers and OEM gasket used. 

5 bolt flange was redone with new inconel studs from flying miata, stage 8 fasteners on 4 of the studs, standard copper exhaust nut on one of the studs, . My vband adapter used a 1/2" stock for that interface but the studs were too short. Milled the vband adapter to .400" thick so I could get full grip on those studs. Lapped sanded the vband flange on both my downpipe and vband adapter flat (they were very warped). Put a cometic 3" vband gasket in there that I sourced from IE.

Turbo wastegate was snugged down a couple extra threads. Wastegate pressure is now about 13-14 PSI or so.

Exhaust system has been rubbing for quite some time. Turned out my 42dd exhaust setup was somewhere between .75"-1" too short. I made a cut, extended it with some 3" aluminized steel, MIG'd it shut, then painted it with some VHT silver Flame proof (1300F-2000F) paint to keep the rust away.

Got a new turbo oil feed line made by Deering Industries from some PTFE stainless line. Sleeved it in some 2000F silicone sleeving.

Put some new gaskets and banjo bolts on along the way.

Put a 20 lbs billet flywheel and clutchnet stg2 clutch on. Had the transmission gone through. It still doesn't feel quite right. I think some minor weirdness is going on with the trans. Next time it comes out I'm tossing a known good o2j back in and carrying over my LSD. This trans has a gremlin in it. Trans fluid is now Lubro Moly fluid.

Replaced a CV boot on my driver's side Raxle. Cleaned and repacked the grease with new CV grease.

Put a new front o2 sensor in. Blew the fuse that controls the o2 heater and the MAF sensor. Replaced the o2 sensor then put a new fuse in. MAF started working and o2 sensor seems to be working again. Kinda nervous that I damaged the ECU due to the faulty o2 grounding out. :-/ Need to do some logging to make sure this is all gravy.

My downpipe was rubbing on my shift linkage and melted some of my up-down shift linkage. I replaced both shift linkages for good measure after sleeving them with 2000F silicone/fiberglass sleeving. Then I took some stainless safety wire and pulled them about an inch to the driver's side and tied them off to some of the power steering hardline to keep them away from the downpipe. Then I wrapped the middle of the downpipe in some exhaust heat tape to further keep the heat away from the shift linkage.

Installed that new USRT Y-Pipe for good measure.

Installed a new BFI stg1 dogbone insert kit.

Car needs an alignment, which I'll be taking care of soon

...I think that was my work on the car in the last couple weeks.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

If your fuse blew out, your ECU is probably OK.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Nissan 4 bolt gasket (4 layer)


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

[email protected] Performance said:


> If your fuse blew out, your ECU is probably OK.


Gotta love circuit protection :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

On a side note I was reading about how a wideband o2 sensor works and what control circuitry is required to read one. Holy crap it's awesome. The Bosch guys that came up with that design were brilliant!


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

And on the drive home today coolant started spraying out the front of the temp sensor housing. Just put a new one on during that last bought of work.

Gave half a turn on each nut. Hope that'll do it


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)




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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)




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## gli87jetta (Nov 26, 2001)

Awesome build. Hope you still have this nice ride! 

Also, any point in going with an after market intake mani if I'm only pushing about 290whp? 

Thanks


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## Blazius (Nov 2, 2018)

gli87jetta said:


> Awesome build. Hope you still have this nice ride!
> 
> Also, any point in going with an after market intake mani if I'm only pushing about 290whp?
> 
> Thanks


No. Stock intake can run pretty well


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## gli87jetta (Nov 26, 2001)

Blazius said:


> No. Stock intake can run pretty well


Yeah, I figured it's not really necessary unless your probably over 325whp or more. I'm hoping to be 290-300whp with my latest mod. Can't wait to pick up my car tomorrow to see how the Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer helps! :thumbup:


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## h00ters CEO (Jan 24, 2008)

This is awesome! It looks so stock. Very impressed!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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