# New TT RS owner, few questions



## mremg (May 10, 2015)

Hello all,

I've recently picked up a low mileage (9k miles) '12 Sepang Blue TT RS from Carmax ( I know, crazy) and I'm very excited! Soon, it'll replace my leased '13 Audi A6 as my daily driver and only car. First off, I'm just blown away by this car. I've never experienced such a powerful car before so it is such a thrill to drive it around town. But, I have a few gripes with the car most of them related to creature comforts. Unfortunately my car wasn't optioned out at all and it has neither the tech package nor the sport exhaust.

1. The audio quality of the speakers is really bad. I'm pretty sure mine didn't come with the BOSE speakers, so not sure if it's hard to install new speakers that sound somewhat decent. Did anybody have any experience upgrading the non-BOSE audio system? (all the threads seem to be focused on Bose system).

2. Head unit w/nav - I'm kinda divided about this. I really don't like the look of aftermarket head units, but I got really used to the new MMI interface in the A6 with it's fancy navigation, HD Radio etc., so it's a bit clunky to use phone for nav and music etc., I've found a Dynavin N6 TT head unit that looks closest to stock but don't know if it's a good idea. If I do install an aftermarket unit, what is a good looking (and decently functional of course) unit for TT RS? Something with knobs? 

3. Sport Exhaust - This is the biggest bummer. I've only realized this after the purchase. I do like how the car drones in the standard mode though. Is it worth it to buy a sport exhaust and get it installed? People with sport exhausts - How often do you actually turn the exhaust on?

4. Tires - The tires still seem ok and I find them quite adequate (I'm a novice spirited driver, so very careful). But thinking about replacing Toyos with Michelin PSS around 15k miles. I live in Los Angeles, so don't really care about winter, so I can go full performance summer tires. I like tires that have a good road feel and seems like PSS are good for that.

5. Shifter - Not really a huge fan of the shifter. I got used to it better now, but it doesn't really feel precise and I really like the shifter feel in my '09 Mini Cooper S (Getrag 6sp I think). It is not short throw, but very firm and precise shifts. Looks like there are some aftermarket options like 42DD bushings. Is it worth installing them?

6. ECU - Almost everybody I talk to ask me "So when are you going to tune your car?" To me, the stock power delivery itself is f**king crazy. Not sure if I can handle more hp & torque especially in a daily driver. But who knows 6 months down the line I might want to drive even faster car. So if I get a tune, what should I look out for? APR or Stasis? Any reliability issues with tuning (Stage I or similar, no mods or extra parts)? Most importantly, is a tune reversible to stock condition?

Anyways, hope you guys can help me by sharing your experience in these matters. 

In conclusion - I've never bothered to find out what engine a car has before (only looked at hp and lb-ft numbers). But after driving this car a few times, I realized that this engine is very special. I bought the car because of the spec numbers, but now I'm really hooked on that engine and it's glory. I hope I don't damage it by revving it really high all the time.

Thanks for your time.


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## IMARMED (May 10, 2014)

#1 & 2 -- The audio system sucks, and Bose is garbage. You're much better off with aftermarket. There are threads here showing nice looking integration, though I haven't seen anyone who has been able to keep the factory microphone. I'm sorta waiting for Android Auto to mature to get the functionality I want.

4. PSS is a great tire, and a big improvement.

5. The shifter sucks. There are a possible solutions here, but I haven't tried one.

6. There's also GIAC. You can reverse a stage 1 with a handheld controller and a push of a button. Stage 2 requires a downpipe and usually an intercooler upgrade, so it's easily reversible, but requires a hardware swap. Wait until you're unhappy with the power to get a tune. Don't worry, that won't take long.

The engine is absolutely fantastic and the car as a whole is great. Be VERY careful shifting, because a mis-shift overrev is an extremely expensive mistake.


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

Wow, I thought my CPO 2012 with ~13800 on it was a good find in May. I'd actually be a little afraid of 9000 miles at carmax... I'd get VCDS on that for a scan ASAP to make sure there is nothing nasty hidden in it.

If it has Bose it will say Bose all over the speaker grilles. If you don't see that you don't have them/it.

The factory nav unit is garbage. Nowhere near as good as what you're used to in an A6 with MMI. Don't bother unless it comes really cheap and you don't mind living without bluetooth streaming (it can't do that, and while you can fake it with a USB bluetooth adapter through the AMI, it is still janky compared to a good aftermarket unit).

I went with a Pioneer 8100NEX unit and have been fairly happy with it. The boot time to nav screen is a little slow, but it works well enough and the sat radio functions are actually nicer than any OEM system I've seen (I can pause & rewind Sirius with it!) The install is fairly straightforward if you get all the parts from Enfig, and should be easier & cheaper without the Bose system.

If I didn't already have Bose in the car, I would probably have considered better aftermarket speakers, and I still kind of wish it had a sub, but I may be able to drop one in later in the trunk. (Bose has a pseudo-sub in the driver-rear area but it's not very good.)

The OEM/factory Sport exhaust was originally a $1500 option. From what I understand, it makes things a little louder, but it can also drone a bit on the highway at those rpms [2-3k?] (drone is usually a "bad word" around here). I was able to purchase it from a member on here who got a full aftermarket turbo-back, and I only paid ~$400 for it so I feel like that's a win. However, I haven't installed mine yet because we had to cut the elbows to get it to ship from the seller to me, and I haven't been able to take it anywhere to get them re-welded (long story). So I can't speak to the difference between stock and "Audi Sport" *yet*.

PSS is the best non-track summer tire you can get. My car came with Continental all-seasons on it and the first thing I did was pull them for PSS.

Shifter: 42DD has two kits you can install. There are the "Shifter base (bracket) bushings" which are very easy but don't do a lot. They effectively attach the cable bracket rigidly to the side of the transmission, which IMO doesn't help much. The "shifter bushings" are another story; they require some cutting to part of the actual shift pivot plastic piece and are much harder to un-do. However, they help remove some of the "slop" out of the shifter - it gets hard-coupled to the linkage instead of having rubber bushes absorbing motion. This means that you feel engine vibrations through the stick, and it also means that you shouldn't rest any weight on the stick after the mod (any pressure on it goes right into the selector forks which is no bueno if it's already in gear). It's really hard to get a before/after sense without two different cars to compare on. I would say the bracket bushings are subtle, but I think they are an improvement. Unfortunately, they don't do anything to space the left/right gates a little further apart, which is really what is needed in this car (it's way too easy to get 2nd when you're trying to go to 4th).

I agree with you about power, but I've also only had the car since May myself. I'm waiting for the tuners to come up with a direct port flash; right now the ECU has to be removed from the car to be flashed. When it's ready, I will put United Motorsport on this car, but I also know one of the owners.  Right now I'm enjoying the performance stock... I'm still afraid to do either a standing launch or a hard 1-2 shift, I don't want to trash the clutch and I don't feel comfortable enough with it to know when I should be releasing on 1-2 or what a safe launch RPM is (and is it better to just rev it to some point and dump the clutch, or should I slip it out more gradually).

As neat as this motor is, the VR6 sounded better... but damn is this thing fast.


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## mremg (May 10, 2015)

Thanks for the responses.



> The engine is absolutely fantastic and the car as a whole is great. Be VERY careful shifting, because a mis-shift overrev is an extremely expensive mistake.


Ok. I saw some threads about blown out engines because of a mis-shift. Yikes.



> I'd actually be a little afraid of 9000 miles at carmax... I'd get VCDS on that for a scan ASAP to make sure there is nothing nasty hidden in it.


Took it straight to the Audi dealer right after purchase. They confirmed everything is stock and in good shape, still has Audi Care coverage with warranty for another year (not including Carmax warranty). Carmax also had a 4k miles one with Tech package and everything, but didn't like the color.



> From what I understand, it makes things a little louder, but it can also drone a bit on the highway at those rpms [2-3k?] (drone is usually a "bad word" around here).


Apologies. I don't mind the current exhaust, but I do like how it sounds past 5k rpm. I wish it sounded like that even at mid rpms. Oh well.



> Unfortunately, they don't do anything to space the left/right gates a little further apart, which is really what is needed in this car (it's way too easy to get 2nd when you're trying to go to 4th).


Bummer. This is my biggest gripe with the car. I usually shift pretty hard and some times the shifter gets stuck even going from 1-2. I did shift to 2nd instead of 4th a few times, but I got more used to the shifter now. 

Audio - I'll take it to an aftermarket audio shop. See what they suggest. 



> I'm still afraid to do either a standing launch or a hard 1-2 shift, I don't want to trash the clutch and I don't feel comfortable enough with it to know when I should be releasing on 1-2 or what a safe launch RPM is (and is it better to just rev it to some point and dump the clutch, or should I slip it out more gradually).


I couldn't resist it. Took it to the canyons, revved it to 3k rpm and dropped the clutch! Surprisingly, it took it very well. Granted, I won't be doing it again for a while but just had to do it once. The 'Sport' mode is also very good to start off the line with earth shattering torque!


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

gowtham said:


> 3. Sport Exhaust - This is the biggest bummer. I've only realized this after the purchase. I do like how the car drones in the standard mode though. Is it worth it to buy a sport exhaust and get it installed? People with sport exhausts - How often do you actually turn the exhaust on?


Sounds like you may be interested in the flapper mod. The valve that opens at 5k or with the sport button pressed can be fixed in the open position with just a zip tie. All you need to do is pinch off the vacuum line that attaches to the valve and it'll stay open all the time. That was the very first thing I did when I got mine home 










I've had several exhaust setups on my car now (standard exhaust with mid-cat delete, sport exhaust with mid-cat delete, Borla, sport with resonator delete) and IMO the flapper mod and mid-cat delete get you almost all of the sound you'd possibly want. Note that the only difference between the standard and sport exhaust is the amount of sound deadening in the muffler itself. Pipe diameter, resonators and flapper valve are all identical between them.



gowtham said:


> 5. Shifter - Not really a huge fan of the shifter. I got used to it better now, but it doesn't really feel precise and I really like the shifter feel in my '09 Mini Cooper S (Getrag 6sp I think). It is not short throw, but very firm and precise shifts. Looks like there are some aftermarket options like 42DD bushings. Is it worth installing them?


Yes, shifter cable bushings and shift bracket bushings make a big difference to the feel of the transmission and totally worth doing. Easy install and cheap parts too. Hard to beat that 

http://lz7w.blogspot.com/2014/04/42-draft-design-shifter-bushing-install.html

http://lz7w.blogspot.com/2014/04/42-draft-design-shifter-bushing-install_9.html

http://lz7w.blogspot.com/2014/04/tyrolsport-shifter-bracket-bushing.html


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## Evilevo (Apr 29, 2009)

ZPrime said:


> Wow, I thought my CPO 2012 with ~13800 on it was a good find in May. I'd actually be a little afraid of 9000 miles at carmax... I'd get VCDS on that for a scan ASAP to make sure there is nothing nasty hidden in it.
> 
> If it has Bose it will say Bose all over the speaker grilles. If you don't see that you don't have them/it.
> 
> ...


Just FYI, UM has port flashing available now. I'm getting a computer shipped to me next week so I can flash it at my house 👍


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

I already have a computer and cable, surprised Jeff didn't ask me to be a guinea pig. I tested DSG software for a while on the R32.


- [thumbed from a phone] -


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## mremg (May 10, 2015)

JohnLZ7W said:


> Yes, shifter cable bushings and shift bracket bushings make a big difference to the feel of the transmission and totally worth doing. Easy install and cheap parts too. Hard to beat that
> 
> http://lz7w.blogspot.com/2014/04/42-draft-design-shifter-bushing-install.html
> 
> ...


Thanks for the links and blogposts. Very detailed and informative.


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## TraderGuy (Feb 3, 2013)

Evilevo said:


> Just FYI, UM has port flashing available now. I'm getting a computer shipped to me next week so I can flash it at my house 👍


This must be new. I was there about a month ago and spoke with Fred, didn't have it then. Only place I've been aware of with port flashing is Revo. Just checked UM's FB page, no announcement. I'll give them a call tomorrow. Thanks for the FYI on this.


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## TraderGuy (Feb 3, 2013)

gowtham said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I've recently picked up a low mileage (9k miles) '12 Sepang Blue TT RS from Carmax ( I know, crazy) and I'm very excited! Soon, it'll replace my leased '13 Audi A6 as my daily driver and only car. First off, I'm just blown away by this car. I've never experienced such a powerful car before so it is such a thrill to drive it around town. But, I have a few gripes with the car most of them related to creature comforts. Unfortunately my car wasn't optioned out at all and it has neither the tech package nor the sport exhaust.
> 
> ...


Some thoughts on your questions...


I guess I'm in the minority, I'm fine with the Bose system. I added a Tune2Air and stream Bluetooth from Pandora daily.

I have the Sport Exhaust and am happy with it. Tempted to add catless mid pipes for a bit more growl and a smudge of performance. 

I got the OEM Tires off as soon as I could justify it. PSS will be a nice step up.

The shifter isn't great, the two mods mentioned earlier do help some, but it's not going to be as nice as some others out there.

It seems like Port Flash is becoming available, I'd go with someone who supports that, not opening the ECU would be a plus for me.

All in all, it's a great car, enjoy,


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## Evilevo (Apr 29, 2009)

TraderGuy said:


> This must be new. I was there about a month ago and spoke with Fred, didn't have it then. Only place I've been aware of with port flashing is Revo. Just checked UM's FB page, no announcement. I'll give them a call tomorrow. Thanks for the FYI on this.


They released it like 2 weeks ago. They haven't put anything out about it yet though.


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## SLC TTRS (May 15, 2015)

I have a 2012 TTRS, not sure why people don't like the shifter, I love mine. Can't see where there could be much improvement. 
I have tracked it 3 times already in the 3 months I have owned it - does fine. 

People seem way worried about the clutch- I don't know my tuner guy/owner and R8 race car driver seems to think they are pretty robust, but yeah 
don't want to miss to many downshifts. 

I have a stage 2 APR, you can change tunes on the fly with your iphone. very nice, smooth and great tune, APR after market exhaust sounds great. 

Doesn't sound like you are going to track it, so if you are happy with the power I would keep it that way for a while. 
If you drive it hard on street you may try and dial out some understeer with a rear sway upgrade. 

I need PSS, these toyos are not great for track or spirited driving. 

I never listen to the radio that much, too busy listening to it roar. Much better..

Congrats!, at the track it will hold it's own and if you know how to drive it beat up on street cars much more expensive than this..


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## CbutterK (Feb 27, 2015)

SLC TTRS said:


> I have a 2012 TTRS, not sure why people don't like the shifter, I love mine. Can't see where there could be much improvement.
> I have tracked it 3 times already in the 3 months I have owned it - does fine.
> 
> People seem way worried about the clutch- I don't know my tuner guy/owner and R8 race car driver seems to think they are pretty robust, but yeah
> ...


I have stage 2+ 2013 TT-RS as well, and I agree the shifter & clutch is just fine for the street & road course track. But what I noticed is that due to the soft trans & motor mounts, car jerks a bit during quick gear changes. Also, at the drag strip, 2 to 3 shifts are often missed, due to the engine/trans movement & sloppy bushings. it works just fine if you wait just a bit between shifts, but who wants to do that when you are trying for the fastest time? I might upgrade the mounts, and get the bushings anyway, to see how much it improves.

I have APR DP & resonator delete, so my engine noise prevents me from really enjoying my Bose sound system. I don't mind it at all.


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## IMARMED (May 10, 2014)

SLC TTRS said:


> I have a 2012 TTRS, not sure why people don't like the shifter, I love mine. Can't see where there could be much improvement.


You need to go and take a Subaru STi or, even better, a Honda S2000 for a spin. Those shifters are smooth, fast, accurate and all around marvelous. Very hard to misshift.

The TTRS shifter's sins are listed above. It's dangerously mediocre.


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## mremg (May 10, 2015)

IMARMED said:


> You need to go and take a Subaru STi or, even better, a Honda S2000 for a spin. Those shifters are smooth, fast, accurate and all around marvelous. Very hard to misshift.
> 
> The TTRS shifter's sins are listed above. It's dangerously mediocre.


Yes. Recently test drove a Civic Si and it's shifter is nothing short of astounding.


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## CbutterK (Feb 27, 2015)

gowtham said:


> Yes. Recently test drove a Civic Si and it's shifter is nothing short of astounding.


I remember back in the day, I used to think my CRX Si shifter was the best... until I got a 911. I've NEVER missed a shift on the 911, even on the track... Bit notchy, but VERY precise!


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## Optical TDI (Dec 18, 2001)

CbutterK said:


> I remember back in the day, I used to think my CRX Si shifter was the best... until I got a 911. I've NEVER missed a shift on the 911, even on the track... Bit notchy, but VERY precise!


I had a 2002 996 and changed to a 997 shifter mechanism. It was way better than the super sloppy 996. The VAG manuals I've owned have been pretty sloppy too. However I've not driven a TTRS, so maybe it's great. However I do have an S2000 and the shifter is MUCH better than the 997 unit, no comparison. It's very direct and fairly short for a stock unit. Maybe a GT3 manual would be a good one! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

Optical TDI said:


> I had a 2002 996 and changed to a 997 shifter mechanism. It was way better than the super sloppy 996. The VAG manuals I've owned have been pretty sloppy too. However I've not driven a TTRS, so maybe it's great. However I do have an S2000 and the shifter is MUCH better than the 997 unit, no comparison. It's very direct and fairly short for a stock unit. Maybe a GT3 manual would be a good one!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You would've been welcome to fondle my [shift] knob when you stopped over to get VAG'ed.  :laugh: It's not great. I've driven worse, but for the performance of the car, the shifter is definitely a weak point.

It's apparently the same transmission used on a 4-motion 6MT Tiguan in Europe. The VAG parts bin is both wonderful, and garbage (like this instance, and the Mk5 R32 brakes which are stolen from a Eurovan... single-pot brakes are a crime on a performance car).

It holds a lot of power, but it wasn't really designed for high speed shifting like you want in a sports car.


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## SLC TTRS (May 15, 2015)

ZPrime said:


> You would've been welcome to fondle my [shift] knob when you stopped over to get VAG'ed.  :laugh: It's not great. I've driven worse, but for the performance of the car, the shifter is definitely a weak point.
> 
> It's apparently the same transmission used on a 4-motion 6MT Tiguan in Europe. The VAG parts bin is both wonderful, and garbage (like this instance, and the Mk5 R32 brakes which are stolen from a Eurovan... single-pot brakes are a crime on a performance car).
> 
> It holds a lot of power, but it wasn't really designed for high speed shifting like you want in a sports car.



I think you need to watch the downshifting- 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd at high speed is not something you want to do. Going up shouldn't be an issue if you wait for the clutch to engage.


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## Fined (Sep 3, 2013)

ZPrime said:


> You would've been welcome to fondle my [shift] knob when you stopped over to get VAG'ed.  :laugh: It's not great. I've driven worse, but for the performance of the car, the shifter is definitely a weak point.
> 
> It's apparently the same transmission used on a 4-motion 6MT Tiguan in Europe. The VAG parts bin is both wonderful, and garbage (like this instance, and the Mk5 R32 brakes which are stolen from a Eurovan... single-pot brakes are a crime on a performance car).
> 
> It holds a lot of power, but it wasn't really designed for high speed shifting like you want in a sports car.







"Not great" would be a very kind hearted and gently stated verbal concession. Definitely nothing to rave or write home about. And I haven't driven anything worse, but then I have also never driven a semi. 
Yes I am under the understanding this box does come from Tiguan. 

"Hmm seems to hold the right amount of torque, guess we will just move it from an SUV to our miniature halo car" WTF


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

First off, congrats on the TT RS. Upgrading the subframe mount insert goes a long way to make shifts crisper and more precise. I installed the VW Motorsport one on the RS (see below) after getting good results with it on my 2008 3.2 TT.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt2/msgs/39893.phtml


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## mremg (May 10, 2015)

pal said:


> First off, congrats on the TT RS. Upgrading the subframe mount insert goes a long way to make shifts crisper and more precise. I installed the VW Motorsport one on the RS (see below) after getting good results with it on my 2008 3.2 TT.
> 
> http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt2/msgs/39893.phtml


Thanks for the tip! That's definitely not for the faint hearted..


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## IMARMED (May 10, 2014)

Fined said:


> "Not great" would be a very kind hearted and gently stated verbal concession. Definitely nothing to rave or write home about. And I haven't driven anything worse


Try a Lotus Elise. A truly awful shifter. Notchy, vague. Hard to get in gear. I haven't driven a semi either, but I imagine it shifts like an Elise. The brakes and steering, on the other hand... absolute perfection. Wish Honda had done the shifter.


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

*FV-QR*

^^ Heh, I've had the opportunity to try an Elise, but I'm too large to comfortably drive it. Stupid long legs and torso.


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## TunaTT (Oct 25, 2010)

The one upgrade not mentioned so far that I feel is the best improvement I've made (other than going stage 2) is the MSS Springs, big improvement to both handling and everyday ride quality. Would probably be the first thing I would do if starting to upgrade.


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## Optical TDI (Dec 18, 2001)

ZPrime said:


> You would've been welcome to fondle my [shift] knob when you stopped over to get VAG'ed.  :laugh: It's not great. I've driven worse, but for the performance of the car, the shifter is definitely a weak point.
> 
> It's apparently the same transmission used on a 4-motion 6MT Tiguan in Europe. The VAG parts bin is both wonderful, and garbage (like this instance, and the Mk5 R32 brakes which are stolen from a Eurovan... single-pot brakes are a crime on a performance car).
> 
> It holds a lot of power, but it wasn't really designed for high speed shifting like you want in a sports car.


Haha! Thx for the Vagcom tweaks. Off topic but the single pot calipers did OK at Mid-Ohio today with XP10/XP8 pads. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ZPrime (Mar 7, 2006)

When I ran them at Nelson with factory pads, they did ok until I left... Didn't get a great cool down lap, and then immediately picked up a 300-some pound guy and drove him home, with lots of hills in that area. A couple of the stops were dicey, fluid was shot. 


- [thumbed from a phone] -


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## primetime21 (Feb 14, 2013)

gowtham said:


> I couldn't resist it. Took it to the canyons, revved it to 3k rpm and dropped the clutch! Surprisingly, it took it very well. Granted, I won't be doing it again for a while but just had to do it once. The 'Sport' mode is also very good to start off the line with earth shattering torque!



Congrats on the car! 

This car launches well.. Lol. 1.6x's 60s optimal results are a rev sweep to 6k with a swift dump... It hit hards, not quite as good as my s4 but good given the haledex system...


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## milo (Feb 19, 2002)

primetime21 said:


> Congrats on the car!
> 
> This car launches well.. Lol. 1.6x's 60s optimal results are a rev sweep to 6k with a swift dump... It hit hards, not quite as good as my s4 but good given the haledex system...


What did you run and your trap speed?:thumbup:


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## primetime21 (Feb 14, 2013)

Stock: DA was nearly 2200 and it was hot out... I think in a good DA I could have gone 12.4-12.5
60ft - 1.6732 
330ft – 5.2504
1/8 ET - 8.2121
1/8 MPH - 84.71
1000ft – 10.6962
1/4 ET – 12.7932
1/4 MPH – 108.68

Tune only 93 octane fuel: DA was about 1200 
1.7060 60ft time
5.0645 330ft time
7.8008 1/8 ET
90.65 1/8 MPH
10.1509 1000ft time
12.1227 1/4 ET
115.34 1/4 MPH

Tune only 93 tune with a mix or 104 octane fuel: DA was about 1800 
1.7208 60ft time
5.0452 330ft time
7.7576 1/8 ET
90.47 1/8 MPH
10.0760 1000ft time
12.0239 1/4 ET
117.09 1/4 MPH


Few vids...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTm0roUcCnU&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTmNPO4ySys
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BaaPfM6OAY


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## SLC TTRS (May 15, 2015)

primetime21 said:


> Stock: DA was nearly 2200 and it was hot out... I think in a good DA I could have gone 12.4-12.5
> 60ft - 1.6732
> 330ft – 5.2504
> 1/8 ET - 8.2121
> ...



Have you dyno'd this? 
Is this APR tune?
Any why did you not go to stage 2 right off the bat?


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## primetime21 (Feb 14, 2013)

No dyno, not a fan as they can be made to read whatever the operator wants them to read... I use the drag strip for all my testing...

Correct, I run the APR tune... Tuned the car with 470 miles on the odometer and now have 2,3xx with no issues... I don't drive it much... lol

I've been slow to mod this car unlike the S4 and/or all the other cars I've owned... No particular reason though, just more going on in life these days... I'm sure I'll get a larger front mount sooner or later...


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## DFW RS (May 12, 2002)

Throw on some lightweight wheels and you will do even better ! :beer:


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## milo (Feb 19, 2002)

Awesome n fast shifting👍. By the way, what do you mean "DA"?


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## Evilevo (Apr 29, 2009)

milo said:


> Awesome n fast shifting👍. By the way, what do you mean "DA"?



DA means Density Altitude. So with a DA of 1800, it means the whether conditions made the density of the air the same density as if he was at 1800ft above sea level. We all know that air is more dense at sea level and gets less dense the higher in altitude you go. So the closer to a DA of 0, the more power the car will make.


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## milo (Feb 19, 2002)

Evilevo said:


> DA means Density Altitude. So with a DA of 1800, it means the whether conditions made the density of the air the same density as if he was at 1800ft above sea level. We all know that air is more dense at sea level and gets less dense the higher in altitude you go. So the closer to a DA of 0, the more power the car will make.


Wow you broke it down to a science👍. In stock trim, I was expecting it to have a higher trap speed😔


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## Evilevo (Apr 29, 2009)

milo said:


> Wow you broke it down to a science👍. In stock trim, I was expecting it to have a higher trap speed😔



This calculator can be used to find out approx how much power above or below rated power, his car was making on that day. He just needs to look up the weather conditions for that day and put it all in the calculator.

https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm


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## DFW RS (May 12, 2002)

milo said:


> Wow you broke it down to a science👍. In stock trim, I was expecting it to have a higher trap speed😔


What I like is the stock, 93 tune and the 93 tune with some 104 mixed in. What all three are, with the APR tune and the 1/4 mile times associated with each. It gives us a good idea what to expect. What improvements. We appreciate it primetime21. :beer:


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

That's a good 60' time, primetime21. What rpm were you launching at and do you drop the clutch or slip it?


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## primetime21 (Feb 14, 2013)

DFW, agreed on the LW wheels... I've had my eyes on the OZ Superforgiats... I netted about a tenth on the S4 when I went from the stock wheels which were 58lbs to the BBS wheels which are 47lbs, both with tires... Stock Audi wheels are boat anchors! LOL I do like the rotor wheel looks...

Milo, Thanks! Evilevo did a nice job explaining DA so not a lot to add... I will say not all DA's are created the same or more specifically will yield the same results because of other factors. IE 1,000 feet DA is 1,000 feet DA but how you get there needs to be considered as well... For example lower temps improve DA as do higher BP's, but if the temp is too low you start to get wheel spin from the cold track/tires. I could go on but I think you get the point. The track in run at is 1,230 feet eleveation and I've found both my S4 and RS run best in high 40's temp with low humidity(under 50%) and high BP 30.2 and better... For example:

elvelation 1,230
Temp A is 48 Temp B is 40
BP A is 30.2 BP B is 29.75
Humidity A is 50 Hunmidity B is 90

Both will yeild nearly an identical 550ish DA but I'll take scenario A all day... 

Ok enough on the DA as I feel bad I've turned the OP's thread into a drag racing DA discussion! LOL

Pal, Thanks! I've found the best results to come from dropping the clutch at 5500-6000RPM via sweeping the revs... What I mean by that is I give the car gas and focus on the RPM's once it hits around 5500 I dump the clutch and make sure the gas is to the floor... It's honestly pretty violent and can be tough to time if you are bracket racing but this is not a bracket racing car so I was going for good ET's and not worried about reactions times. In my experience the car doesn't like to rev to a set rpm and hold it there similar to how a launch assist on stick shift car works...


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## spinthebluemarble (Aug 3, 2015)

*Pal - The Ridge*

hey there Pal, my account has not yet been approved so i cannot email you directly. so i am just replying to you here. we met out at the ridge last saturday. i have the gray r32. that even was so much fun. feel free to ping me here if you feel so inclined. 

FORUM MEMBERS - and for any folks out here who own TT's - Pal's TT is killer. i can personally attest to this seeing it first hand. if he has anything to say regarding these rigs, i suggest the forum members stand up and take notice


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