# 2012 Golf 2.5L Catch Can Install Pics



## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Hey guys,
Just wanted to post of pics and info about my catch can set up that I just completed.

I wanted to install the catch can close to the intake manifold inlet. Partly to keep the tubing as short as possible, and also keep it slightly stealthy. 
In the pic below you can see the spot where I chose to have it mount, but that unused mounting point had to go.









I went with the ECS Tuning 6oz. catch can. It's hard to tell from the pic but when the can is installed it doesn't interfere with the shift weight below.









This was my first attempt. I thought I was being sneaky having the PCV tubing run down behind the oil fill spot, but when using the stock air intake/ engine cover there wasn't quite enough room for the fittings. The engine cover wasn't able to lock down onto it's mounting points. The outlet from the catch can to the intake manifold worked out great though. I used an old OEM PCV tube and cut it to length. The inner diameter of the tube worked out with the -10 AN fitting. 









And here is the current set up that works with the stock air intake system. I used the OEM end of the PCV tubing and cut the Norma fitting (that's what those stock fittings are called, apparently) from the plastic hose. I then jammed it into the -10 AN hose. I switched up the hose to a rubber version without steel braiding. It's a little more flexible and forgiving than the braided hose. 
We're just venting crankcase gases here, not supplying fuel to a jet engine .









I wasn't sure if this was going to even work, so I used an end with a snapped attachment ring. I added on a zip tie to help keep the one remaining tab in place. Eventually I might swap out the end with an undamaged one.









There was one spot where the intake manifold side was rubbing on the engine, so I added in a piece of the stock insulation with zip ties. 









Viewed from the front of the car, the catch can is hidden by the stock air intake tubing, so it's kind of stealthy...









...but from the side the catch can is still accessible for checking the dipstick and unscrewing the bottom for dumping out the gunk.









With this setup I'm hoping to finally get rid of the P0106 code caused by the MAP sensor getting fowled up with oil. If anyone has any questions/comments feel free to post.
I'll post back here once I have driven around with it installed to report any issues.
-Eric


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Looks good. 

Thanks for sharing.


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## Master_P (Feb 10, 2012)

Excellent post and pictures! Thank you for sharing this!!!


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Thanks guys, so far so good. The real test will be the Monday drive to work. 
One negative about installing the catch can in this location is that the Carbonio CAI no longer fits. If the catch can bracket was moved to be mounted under the battery tray, instead of on top, it MAY work. But I'd have to check clearance for the shift weight. I have a feeling a more slender intake would fit, like the Neuspeed P-Flo, but the metal heat shield would have to be cut to fit since the mounting point on the battery tray that it uses got chopped off with a hacksaw .


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## vr6-kamil (Sep 14, 2008)

Great post, thanks. How were you able to attach -10AN end to the OEM plastic hose? So that on one end it clips in to the intake manifold OEM style and the other end of the same hose going to the catch can you were about take out OEM Narma fitting and convert it to -10AN?

Reason I'm asking is so I can purchase the same part and be able to do it as well. Where did you buy parts? I see and understand the catch can came from ECS.


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

vr6-kamil said:


> Great post, thanks. How were you able to attach -10AN end to the OEM plastic hose? So that on one end it clips in to the intake manifold OEM style and the other end of the same hose going to the catch can you were about take out OEM Narma fitting and convert it to -10AN?
> 
> Reason I'm asking is so I can purchase the same part and be able to do it as well. Where did you buy parts? I see and understand the catch can came from ECS.
> 
> ...


Hi, yeah I cut off the Norma end and fit the tubing of the OEM hose into the -10 AN fitting. The inner diameter of the hose is 5/8", which is the size that works with -10 AN.
I wrapped a little bit of electrical tape around the end of the hose to thicken it up a bit before inserting it into the fitting. Once everything was tightened down, it seems to be holding great. 
Here's a link to the part I used:
http://www.performancebyie.com/straight-hose-ends-black


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## vr6-kamil (Sep 14, 2008)

Gunbu said:


> Hi, yeah I cut off the Norma end and fit the tubing of the OEM hose into the -10 AN fitting. The inner diameter of the hose is 5/8", which is the size that works with -10 AN.
> I wrapped a little bit of electrical tape around the end of the hose to thicken it up a bit before inserting it into the fitting. Once everything was tightened down, it seems to be holding great.
> Here's a link to the part I used:
> http://www.performancebyie.com/straight-hose-ends-black


Thanks man that makes sense


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

I tweaked the catch can hose set up a little bit tonight. I got a used OEM PCV hose off of ebay to replace the broken end at the PCV breather and update the intake manifold side to a rubber hose.

Maybe this pic will come in handy for anyone curious or needing reference for those Norma ends. I cut the ends off with a small saw and removed the little rubber gasket. 









This setup just looks a little bit better and offers some more room underneath the air intake.









I think this'll be the setup I go with unless something goes terribly wrong. I like that both hoses now use the same style fittings and everything is more streamlined. 









Here's a link the -10 AN hose barb fittings that were used:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220758b


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Well, unfortunately installing the catch can has not solved the check engine light issue. Still getting p0106 and p2188 consistently. This is after installing a brand new MAP sensor, as well as a new Air Fuel oxygen sensor (the upstream one). I reinstalled the original N80 purge valve to see if that changed anything but it hasn't. 
The catch can has collected a bit of residue, but nothing crazy. 

The codes seem to trigger when coming down back to idle after driving at highway speeds. Just driving around town the codes won't trigger. The car itself has been getting good mpg and drives fine. 
I'm guessing a leaking fuel injector could be the culprit because the oil does smell a little like gas. I checked the resistance of each fuel injector with a multimeter and they all measured between 14.4-14.7 ohms. I'll be checking the sound of the injectors this weekend once I rig up an air filter with the stupid engine cover removed so I can reach the injectors while the car is on. 

As far as live data goes, the long term fuel trim spikes close to -50% sometimes, and the timing advance gets all the way up to 45° at some points while at highway speeds. I don't know if those numbers are normal or not though if anyone wants to chime in that'd be great.
Anyways, that's where I'm at!


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

how well did you clean the plenum when you did the catch can setup?

i didn't see you mention taking the throttle body off during the install, but i assumed you did in order to get to the pcv hose clamp behind the throttle body.

i tried getting that clamp off without removing the tb, but it just wasn't happening.


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Hi le0n,
I did clean up the plenum during the catch can install. I taped a microfiber towel to a stick and sprayed it with throttle body cleaner and went to town in there. Previously, I removed the whole intake manifold to chase a small oil leak coming from a couple loose fasteners on the cylinder head near the timing chain cover. While I had it removed I did a really good cleaning of the plenum and runners. I used all new manifold gaskets during the reinstall too. I'm thinking I could have been a little too rough with the fuel rail and damages one of the injectors? There is no fuel smell at all around the injectors so there is no external leak. I think there is fuel getting into the oil somehow- whether it's from an injector or a bad sensor telling the computer to send too much fuel, I don't know.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

so...

is there oil on the map sensor?


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Ha! Good question! When I pulled out the MAP sensor a couple days ago, it had a slight shine to it. Can't say it was wet. It smelled like gasoline instead of oil.
I replaced that MAP sensor with one that I had cleaned previously. Unfortunately the code seems to trigger at the same time on my drive no matter what so far. 
Not at the same drive time, but the same circumstances... driving at highway speeds and then going back down to idle. That'll trigger the pending P0106. 

The MAP sensors before adding the catch can ended up totally soaked in oil, so even though the code is still triggering it was nice to see it mostly dry this time. Small victories, lol.


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Here's the freeze frame data from tonight's check engine light. 
Nothing really stands out to me here. 

@le0n, just read that you've gone 2000 miles since the last MIL :thumbup:. Keep it up!



Trouble Code P0106 triggered Freeze Frame.
Code Def: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
PID : Description : Value
04 05 06 07 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F 11 12 1F 2E 33 42 43 44 45 46 47 49 4A 4C 51 56
: Calculated Engine Load Value : 54.9 % : Engine Coolant Temperature : 192 °F
: Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : 1.6 % :LongTermFuelTrimBank1:3.9%
: Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure : 19.5 inHg : Engine RPM : 1426 rpm
: Vehicle Speed : 14 MPH
: Timing Advance for #1 cylinder : 26.0 °
: Intake Air Temperature : 117 °F
: Absolute Throttle Position : 21.6 %
: Commanded Secondary Air Status : 0
: Run Time Since Engine Start : 1159 seconds : Commanded Evaporative Purge : 1.2 %
: Barometric Pressure : 30 inHg
: Control Module Voltage : 13.853 V
: Absolute Load Value : 45.5 %
: Commanded Equivalence Ratio : 0.999 λ : Relative Throttle Position : 11.8 %
: Ambient Air Temperature : 72 °F
: Absolute Throttle Position B : 21.6 %
: Accelerator Pedal Position D : 35.3 %
: Accelerator Pedal Position E : 35.7 %
: Commanded Throttle Actuator : 14.5 %
:FuelType:0N/A
: Long Term Secondary Oxygen Sensor Trim Bank 1 : -0.8 %


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

^^ That looks like the freeze frame of a downshift. 

That's when mine triggered last time, downshifting to enter the parking garage. 

Also, thanks, hah hah. I'm trying


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

Here's an update for the catch can after about 800 miles. Glad this stuff is in here and not the intake manifold. Included a shot of the MAP sensor as well. Looks pretty dry, especially compared to how it used to look.









I tried one more experiment... I unplugged the MAP sensor harness and turned the ignition to the "on" position. Codes P0108 and P0113 showed up pending. These relate to readings from the MAP sensor to be high/incorrect. I have never seen these codes come up under normal circumstances, which made me *happy*. That means the wiring of the MAP sensor is more than likely not to blame for the issue.


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## Gunbu (Jan 12, 2012)

One more update. I replaced the combination valve a few days ago and it seems to have cleared the p2188 code. The old one must have had a small leak. When removing the oil fill cap with the car idling and the new combination valve installed I noticed that the vacuum pull was less and the engine didn't "protest" as much. Before, removing the oil fill cap there was a stronger vacuum pull and the engine would start to run rough. Been a few days now and no p2188 code. Still getting the p0106 code though, no change in that. I may check and clean the intake manifold again since the leaking combination valve could have been pulling more oil into the manifold than normal with the increased vacuum(?)


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