# DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

I haven't seen a really good one of these out there, so whipped this up while I was changing the oil on my VR6 last weekend.
*CHANGING THE OIL AND OIL FILTER ON A MKIV 12V VR6*
The following procedure will outline the steps to change the oil and oil filter on a MKIV VR6, 12V. It is important to remember that the procedures are different whether you have a 12V or a 24V. For changing your oil on a 24V, refer to http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=650410. Much respect to *jbrams* for doing the original work on this.
There are many avenues of thought on replacing your oil. Some opt with the 3000 mile religious routine, while others run their synthetic for upwards of 15000 miles. I fall somewhere in-between; I change mine every 5000 miles. This DIY is not intended to tell you when to change your oil, but how.
I replace my fuel filter every other oil change as well, so see http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1276409 for that procedure (respect to *alchu* for his excellent DIY).
The procedure was based on a '00 MKIV Jetta GLX 12v VR6. The procedure should be valid for '99.5 - '02 12v VR6.
Please be careful when performing the below steps. I always label all my loose parts or place the small ones in plastic bags and label them so I know where they go.
It took me approximately 1 hour to complete the oil change (including time to clean my K&N and take pictures). Depending on how good you are with tools, it may take you more or less time.
First, for the parts list. I recommend a VW OEM oil filter, but your local Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will have a filter that works.
Parts
1) Oil Filter (includes large rubber O-ring) - VW# 021-115-562A - $10.40
2) 6 Quarts of your favorite motor oil: see http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf for more information.
3) Oil collection facility (waste oil collector)
Now, the tools.
Tools
1) One jack
2) Two jackstands
3) A Torx 25 screwdriver (Torx 20 will work)
4) 6mm (optional)
5) 36mm socket (optional) or a strap wrench / channel locks
6) 19mm socket
7) Socket wrench
8) Small blade screwdriver
9) Torque wrench
*Please be careful. Do this procedure at your own risk, I can't be held responsible if I have made a mistake in the steps.*

*Examining your parts*
i. Before you begin, first examine your parts to make sure you have all the parts. You should have everything shown below. Starting from the upper right and going clockwise you see the oil filter, the O-ring, 1 quart of oil (you need 6), and your waste oil collector.

ii. Drive your car to the location where you will be performing the maintenance. Apply the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral. Make sure you have plenty of light in the area you will be working.
*Draining the old oil*
1. If the car is not already warm, start the engine and run the car until it is warm.
2. Once it is warm, shut off the engine and jack up the front end of the car.

3. Remove the splash guard from under the vehicle with a Torx 25 screwdriver. There are four bolts, two on each side.


4. Using the 19mm socket, loosen but do not remove the oil pan drain plug. The drain plug is located towards the rear of the oil pan. 

5. Place your waste oil collector underneath the drain plug. Move it approximately 6" towards the back of the vehicle to accommodate the oil as it flows out of the oil pan.
6. While pressing in on the drain plug, slowly unscrew the plug from the pan. Note: The plug may be extremely hot, so take the appropriate precautions. I use a rag to remove the drain plug.


7. Once the drain plug is all the way unscrewed, quickly remove the drain plug. A steady stream of oil will flow out of the oil pan and into your waste oil collector (assuming you've positioned it correctly).

8. While you are waiting, inspect your drain plug for damage. VW recommends replacing the drain plug every oil change, but this is unnecessary. However, a damaged drain plug may need to replaced, as in the picture below.

9. Once most of the oil has been drained, reinstall the drain plug. Tighten it to 30 Nm.
10. Now for the messy part. Place your waste oil collector underneath the oil filter housing. Some people choose to remove the oil filter housing plug and drain the oil filter housing prior to removal. 

Personally, I think this is a waste of time. But should you choose this method, remove the oil filter housing plug with a 6mm hex wrench and drain the housing.

Instead, I prefer to remove the oil filter housing as one unit. To do so, loosen but do not remove the oil filter housing with a 36mm socket. You can also use a strap wrench or a channel lock pliers.


11. As you loosen the oil filter housing, you will begin to see oil leak from the threads of the housing. This is normal since you have not previously drained the housing by removing the oil filter housing plug.

12. Once the oil filter housing has drained, fully remove it and pour out the excess oil into your drain pan.

13. Next, remove the oil filter from the oil filter housing. You may need to wiggle it a bit to get it out, but be careful not to break the plastic guide piece.

14. Once you have removed the oil filter, take a look inside the housing for any foreign material. An excess of anything can indicate a problem in your lubrication system.


15. Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the old O-ring.

16. I usually take this chance to clean the oil filter housing using a lint free cloth. Wipe off the threads, the O-ring seats, and the bottom of the housing.
*Installing the new filter and adding oil*
17. Install the new oil filter by placing the large hole in the bottom of the oil filter over the plastic guide and pushing the oil filter into the oil filter housing. When it seats properly, you will hear a satisfying "click" and the filter will be held firmly in the housing.

18. Next, install the new O-ring. Dip it into some new motor oil and coat the entire O-ring with oil using your fingers. Then slide it around the oil filter, past the oil filter housing threads, and into the O-ring seat.


19. Set the oil filter housing on top of the waste oil collector, and fill the oil filter housing with new motor oil. To do this, pour the oil into the small hole at the top of the oil filter. It will probably take 1/4 to 1/2 a quart of oil.

20. Reinstall the filter housing, taking care not to drip any oil in your eyes while you are screwing it in. If you have a 36mm socket, torque the oil filter housing to 30 Nm. If you do not, just make it reasonably tight, you do not want the oil filter housing coming loose.
21. Check to make sure your drain plug is installed and torqued properly.
22. Pop the hood, and unscrew the oil fill cap.

23. Fill the engine with just under 6 quarts of your favorite motor oil. The engine spec is normally 5.8 quarts, but it will handle 6 with no problem if you happen to overfill.

24. Reinstall the oil fill cap.
25. Close the hood.
26. Reinstall the splash shield with the 4 Torx-25 screws.
27. Lower the vehicle.
28. After starting the car, drive it around the block, let it warm up, then check for leaks.
That's it! Email me with questions if you have any, I'd be happy to answer them!

_Modified by FaelinGL at 7:14 PM 10-2-2005_


_Modified by FaelinGL at 7:30 PM 12-9-2005_


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

Nice work Mike. It's about time someone put this together for the 12v.
FYI, I'd recommend removing the drain plug in the filter housing to drain the housing before removing the cap. It makes the job significantly less messy. If you do this, barely a drop will spill when you remove the filter cap.
I'm adding this to the DIY thread.








Gary


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*

Two more things. What's the 8mm hex wrench for? Also, IIRC, the four (4) screws that secure the plastic belly pan are actually T25 Torx, but T20 will also work.
Gary


----------



## Mike VR6 (Oct 4, 2000)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*

Nice.....but my additions would be:
Put a large piece of cardboard under the drain pan so you don't mess up your garage floor








Also.....the step where you add oil into the filter is unncessary in my opinion. That's just a matter of preference I guess.


----------



## RavinJetta (Mar 31, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*

Great writeup. Thanks


----------



## OptimusGlen (Feb 14, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (RavinJetta)*

hahaha, nice gloves MJ


----------



## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_



Great write up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif You makey spilly mess though


----------



## vasillalov (Nov 5, 2003)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (gehr)*

good job!


----------



## EPilot (Jul 27, 1999)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*

The other suggestion is to use a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter housing. A socket is cheaper than buying a oil filter housing in the future. Plus you can also torque it to it's proper tightness with a socket.


----------



## MacDalund (Jun 30, 2003)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (EPilot)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (MacDalund)*

I like making messy spills!
Gary, extra tool, my bad.
Mike VR6, you are absolutely right, it is a matter of personal preference. I always want to fill the filter myself with oil instead of having the oil pump do it since that diverts flow away from the engine components, and you are technically running the engine without oil for like 3 seconds. /shrug
EPilot, very true statement. I think the housing is something like 90 bucks for a piece of injection molded plastic /boggle. I recommend using the socket, but there are alternatives available. I think the socket is like 8 bucks at Home Depot or Sears for those who do not have it.
Thanks much for the FB, keep it coming.
Fae


----------



## VgRt6 (Mar 8, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

You can get the plastic cap for around $30, not $90. It's still a good idea to get the 36mm socket so you can torque it properly. The cap is only supposed to be torqued to 18 ft-lbs and can easily be broken if you torque it higher. I accidentally had mine set to 22 ft-lbs (from the drain plug) and over-torqued the cap. The cap rotated so far past where it was supposed to go that the cage that slides inside the filter hit the top of the filter housing and half of it broke off.








Gary


----------



## Tlan (Jun 4, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*

Just changed my oil today...Excellent write up! helped me a lot. The best I've seen so far...


----------



## bahnbrennerg60 (May 15, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (Tlan)*

yeah that was a good DIY, pictures really helped. thanks!


----------



## DubStyleVr6 (Mar 22, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_Nice work Mike. It's about time someone put this together for the 12v.
FYI, I'd recommend removing the drain plug in the filter housing to drain the housing before removing the cap. It makes the job significantly less messy. If you do this, barely a drop will spill when you remove the filter cap.
I'm adding this to the DIY thread.








Gary

Very True


----------



## seanh287 (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

what happens if you break the center guide piece? i dropped it and it broke off, but it was like 50 bucks to fix it, and i didnt wanna spend that money, so i just put it back on, and its been working fine. it broke but it still holds in place, but if i pull it then it will just come back out. is this a problem?


----------



## JDriver1.8t (May 20, 2005)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (Sean2000VR6)*

Great write up, but what's with the mesh top gloves?


----------



## Ferris Buehler (Feb 15, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (JDriver1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JDriver1.8t* »_Great write up, but what's with the mesh top gloves?

Leave him alone, the A-Team changed their oil on that van you know!!!!
Also folks it's a good idea to block the rear tires for safety. Leave it in gear if manual and leave the jack there locked beside the stands. Safety first.


----------



## alchu (Feb 2, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

whoa people still read that fuel filter diy?







thanks for the props.
Nice gloves and diy








A


----------



## VR6-Racer (Apr 29, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (alchu)*

Nice DIY, I worked at JiffyLube 2 years ago and hates these cause just cause how much of a mess taking the filter off was. This car is a piece of cake compared to a Lexus RX300. . .if someone asks, never do their oil!!!


----------



## xanthus (Feb 23, 2005)

Where is everyone recycling their oil? 
I have a couple oil changes worth of dirty oil I need to get rid of.
Oh, and I hand tighten the oil filter housing, and hand loosen it, I never have torqued it down with any type of tool. I have yet to get a leak.


----------



## Halpem (May 15, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (xanthus)*


_Quote, originally posted by *xanthus* »_Where is everyone recycling their oil? 
I have a couple oil changes worth of dirty oil I need to get rid of.


In my area , the local Auto parts take the old oil for free.


----------



## nOOb (Nov 21, 2002)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (Halpem)*

tips i have found:
-don't use a screwdriver to remove the o-ring! buddy did it and end up gouging a nice lines through his threads....which began to leak.
-for mk3 if your drain bolt came with the plastic washer upgrade to the copper one off the MK4. no more drip leaks
-have the front slightly higher than the rear. pan drains to the rear and speeds up the process.


----------



## jaysvw (Oct 15, 2001)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (nOOb)*

Here is the updated link to that VW .pdf file in the begining.
http://www.vw.com/vwcom/conten...t.pdf


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (eurozex)*

Thanks man, DIY updated to reflect new PDF. 
Seriously, if you're not rockin mesh gloves to do your work, BA Barracus pity the foo!!
Mike


----------



## Soren (Oct 31, 2000)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

Wow, fuel filter every 2 oil changes? Seems a bit excessive. I change it every 24k and feel like that's overkill... do you have ****ty gas in your area or something?
Only other things I would do differently is open the filler cap before draining anything because it flows faster and use the drain on the filter housing. 2-3 extra mins for a clean job even if I fumble and drop the housing is worth it to me..
Nice DIY though. I can't believe people pay other people to do their oil changes. Thats just silly. And lazy.


----------



## anthmvr6 (Nov 9, 2006)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

do you burn with 5w-30?


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (anthmvr6)*

I have since switched to using Mobil 1 - 0w40, but regardless, I never burned a drop of oil with this 12v engine.
Mike


----------



## anthmvr6 (Nov 9, 2006)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

does using a thicker blend help with that lifter tick?


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (anthmvr6)*

It might help a little...
Mike


----------



## vwmk1gti (Apr 29, 2003)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

nice write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## wabbitGTl (Jan 2, 2007)

i did mine awhile ago in my mk3 for the first time so i was in the dark a bit. one thing i noticed different was that my owner's manual dictated 7.4 quarts. what's the deal?


----------



## quinntendopower1 (Nov 20, 2003)

*Re: (wabbitGTl)*

i see you did the leather glove "swiss cheese" mod. props


----------



## VR6ix (Oct 27, 2003)

Avoid the channel locks at all costs. You WILL end-up marring, scarring and chewing the soft black plastic.









Instead, try using a *pipe wrench* (okay, not that big) if you're stuck with hand-tools and an over-tightened cartridge case..









What's the difference? you say.
Channel locks will never give you a perfectly parallel surface between the two jaws when you clamp onto the 36mm plastic nut. As a result it is very easy to have the channel-lock jaws slip off the plastic, either gouging or scraping and eventually rounding-off the plastic nut shape.
A pipe wrench still uses aggressive teeth on the jaws, but, most importantly, they are infinitely adjustable and the mechanism that allows one jaw to pivot also allows you to get both jaws parallel on the plastic nut surfaces. Much less chance of slipping (still possible tho), much better surface grip to apply torque, your plastic cap will last longer. You'll also find out quickly that the pivoting jaw means the pipe-wrench will only work in one direction.

And while the manual may say "7.4 quarts" or whatever, that is the total capacity of the oil system, which includes the factory oil cooler. When you drain the pan and the filter, you don't get all the old oil out completely. I can usually get 5.5L ~ 5.75L in during a change, which is one large 5L jug and part of a single 1L, which later goes in the trunk "just in case".

_Modified by VR6ix sippin' sailor jerry_


_Modified by VR6ix at 6:37 PM 7-30-2008_


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: (VR6ix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR6ix* »_Avoid the channel locks at all costs. You WILL end-up marring, scarring and chewing the soft black plastic.


I agree with you 100%. I actually use a 6 sided 36mm socket to remove the filter housing. The intent of this procedure was written to allow anyone with "normal" tools to do their own oil change. Everyone should have a pair of channel locks in their toolbox.
Mike


----------



## McKLaSiK (Aug 6, 2003)

Changing the oil on a VR is fun.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Buying the 36mm socket is a must.. After you change the oil the first time, all other times will be a breeze. 


_Modified by McKLaSiK at 1:30 PM 7-28-2007_


----------



## EuroTechVW (Aug 19, 2006)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

Hi!
This write up is GREAT! I have one question. What weight oil do you guys suggest for summer driving? I see that in the picture you're using 5w-30. My friend uses that weight on his 1.8t. Any input would be greatly appreciated cause my VR6 is due for it's 1st oil change since I bought it. Thanks in advance. TGIF!!!!!!!! Have a great weekend! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## 93SLCyasee (Jul 22, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (VgRt6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VgRt6* »_
FYI, I'd recommend removing the drain plug in the filter housing to drain the housing before removing the cap. It makes the job significantly less messy. If you do this, barely a drop will spill when you remove the filter cap.
Gary

I recommend this as well. I installed a quick drain plug in the oil pan. So all you have to do is unscrew the cap, plug up the quick drain hose and it starts draining out nice and clean though the tube with no mess. After it drains, then I go to the drain plug on the filter housing and let that drain before removing the entire housing. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (EuroTechVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *EuroTechVW* »_Hi!
This write up is GREAT! I have one question. What weight oil do you guys suggest for summer driving? I see that in the picture you're using 5w-30. My friend uses that weight on his 1.8t. Any input would be greatly appreciated cause my VR6 is due for it's 1st oil change since I bought it. Thanks in advance. TGIF!!!!!!!! Have a great weekend! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

You can use that, or go with Mobil 1's 0w40.
Mike


----------



## Bumjubeo (Feb 22, 2003)

Great Writeup! This was my first VR6 engine I did an oil change on, and the filter I was given from Canadian Tire was no where to be found on the car.
Boggled for a good 20 minutes before I decided to try using my allen key in the housing and spotting oil coming out!
Wish I read this first as I did do a good job completley scarring my housing. First vice grips, then channel locks, even the filter wrench haha, got out that socket, and all was made easy








Time to go buy a new housing







Have to learn somehow


----------



## DUB0RA (Aug 10, 2007)

*Re: (FaelinGL)*

i just did my first oil change. i think it could have gone a little bit smoother considering that everything could go wrong did go wrong. my drain plug was so tight i had to go next door from my job and ask them to loosen it for me.







after that my filter housing didnt want to unscrew so i had to try three different tools.







in the end i used locking pliers which damaged the housing badly. great write up though it just didnt go as smooth for me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## NorthernGTI (Oct 26, 2005)

*Re: (DUB0RA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DUB0RA* »_i just did my first oil change. i think it could have gone a little bit smoother considering that everything could go wrong did go wrong. my drain plug was so tight i had to go next door from my job and ask them to loosen it for me.







after that my filter housing didnt want to unscrew so i had to try three different tools.







in the end i used locking pliers which damaged the housing badly. great write up though it just didnt go as smooth for me. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I seriously hope for your sake your oil pan isnt leaking because VW oil pans are made out of aluminum and have a tendency to leak when over tightened. When putting the drain plug back in you should tighten first with your fingers until it cant go any further and then you should only do 1/4 - 1/2 turn with a 19mm wrench. 

Also I just wanted to add that you should ALWAYS!!! take off the oil cap first that way you dont drain your oil and cant refill it after. 


_Modified by NorthernGTI at 8:05 PM 9-1-2007_


----------



## DUB0RA (Aug 10, 2007)

*Re: (NorthernGTI)*

YEA I HAND TIGHTENED THE OIL DRAIN PLUG FIRST THEN DID IT WITH A WRENCH. I ALSO DIDNT TIGHTEN THE FILTER HOUSING THE WHOLE COMPLETE WAY. WOULD THIS BE A PROBLEM OR NOT????







TWO MORE QUESTION DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW MUCH A FILTER HOUSING WOULD COST AND CAN ANYONE SUGGEST THE EASIEST WAY OF REMOVING ONE WITH A RELIABLE TOO?L


----------



## zkat (Dec 17, 2006)

*Re: (DUB0RA)*

Jeez Louise... I just skimmed two pages of posts...on how to change my oil??? 

Ok, why in this whole thoughtful and illuminating thread, has no one asked the obvious? Why on earth does my 1993 Volkswagen have on oil filter last seen on a 1962 Chevy Impala??? The last (and first) time I changed a canister-style oil filter was on a friend's '62 Impala SS. What gives, VW???


----------



## MKIIIMadness (Sep 6, 2007)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

Thanks for the DIY! My Jetta is smooth now!


----------



## Damocles (Apr 23, 2008)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

This might seem like dumb question, but how do you jack the car up safely? I looked last night for some jack plates but found nothing. I'm not a big fan of side jacking as it tends to crush the edge?
Any thoughts or should I just go with ramps?


----------



## dirtymanpon (Jul 22, 2008)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

Great write-up. I know what I am going to finally do myself now.


----------



## VRsuper6 (Jul 8, 2007)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (Damocles)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Damocles* »_This might seem like dumb question, but how do you jack the car up safely? I looked last night for some jack plates but found nothing. I'm not a big fan of side jacking as it tends to crush the edge?
Any thoughts or should I just go with ramps?









i always jack up from the front motor mount.


----------



## ramenfiend (Aug 3, 2008)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (EuroTechVW)*

I'm in a similar situation. I am the new owner of a 2k2 GTi VR6 12v and it's due for its first oil change since I've taken ownership of it. 
It's currently at 33K miles. Yup, only 33K.








I've must've gone through half of the site looking for motor oil advice. Is there a thread that has recommended oil for the 12v VR6?


----------



## durteeclean (Apr 20, 2005)

nice write up


----------



## dubstylee22 (Sep 28, 2007)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (durteeclean)*

ok well this is a very interessting thing but i wanted to see what was wrong with it. 
I followed this thread like a saint and sure enough it went VERY well. Props bro. BUT something happened i was watching the dipp stick and it was about an inch above the "high level" mark. this is about two days later. i started to freak out cause i only put maybe 5 quarts in. and now to this day i look at it and its too low. (im going to fill it). but what could have been the prob!?


----------



## LISTO14 (Dec 20, 2007)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (dubstylee22)*

taking out the plug 1st elimiates this.... thats why its there.


----------



## rxp4me (Aug 25, 2006)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

very good info , Thanks


----------



## Ryan Sickles (Mar 10, 2005)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (dubstylee22)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubstylee22* »_BUT something happened i was watching the dipp stick and it was about an inch above the "high level" mark. this is about two days later. i started to freak out cause i only put maybe 5 quarts in. and now to this day i look at it and its too low. (im going to fill it). but what could have been the prob!? 

Because you only put 5 quarts in. Six quarts barely fills mine halfway... but of course all engines are different.


----------



## fastnetmail2 (Apr 10, 2008)

the http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf no longer works. does anyone know of oil comparison for the vr6 12v 2003 jetta? thanks.


----------



## kermani (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: (fastnetmail2)*

It's not car specific. Google it.


----------



## fmxbrando (Mar 8, 2008)

*Re:*

this is a very old post... but since it was bumped... those gloves scare me...


----------



## JeddaIIBock (Apr 7, 2004)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (Mike VR6)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mike VR6* »_Nice.....but my additions would be:
Put a large piece of cardboard under the drain pan so you don't mess up your garage floor








Also.....the step where you add oil into the filter is unncessary in my opinion. That's just a matter of preference I guess. 

it's not REALLY a matter of preference it's a matter of having the motor run for 2 seconds or 20 seconds without oil pressure. 
i mean do what you want but i have primed EVERY oil filter i have ever installed(except 2.2 chrysler filters which for some stupid reason laid on their sides) wonder why we all buy german instead of "American"


----------



## titleist (Jan 26, 2008)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

Thanks for the help. This thread ROCKS^^^
Just changed the oil on my recent purchased 96 vr gti. Never had a car w/ the cartridge oil filter. Just broke the 100K mark. Running 20/50 moble1. Could not find the 6 pt 36mm. Had to settle for the 12 ptr.
Hell of alot easier than that 1.8t. 







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## jdubb531 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (FaelinGL)*

ill prob change my oil for now on lol..too low for evry place anyway


----------



## glenn1 (Aug 19, 2009)

You should first remove the oil fill cap so it can pour smoother out of the oil pan.
edit i also recommend buying an aftermarket drain plug because they come with magnetic screws itll hold alot of nasty **** from being tossed around your crankcase...trust me after the first oil change with the plug youll be like "this was iin my oil!!!" XP


_Modified by glenn1 at 2:39 PM 11-1-2009_


----------



## MrMoon (Dec 23, 2008)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (LISTO14)*


_Quote, originally posted by *LISTO14* »_taking out the plug 1st elimiates this.... thats why its there.









haha I saw this and thought the exact same thing


----------



## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

*Re: DIY - VR6 12v Oil Change (MrMoon)*

is the filter set up the same on the 24v?
i changed my oil on the old 2.0 multiple times but havent done it yet on the vr. i was just wodering what i should expect.


----------



## SLVRMK3 (Jul 7, 2010)

Just picked up a VR6 last month and this was a great guide for my first time. Thanks!


----------



## acee_dub (Jun 12, 2008)

Great Writeup! but i don't think ill be tackling one of these just yet, dont want to break anything!


----------



## turbodreamsI6 (Aug 23, 2010)

great write up for those of us doing our first times on these cars and cant find any information on how many qts of oil you need.

Googled "Vr6 jetta how many quarts"; This thread is the first result!

Makes me miss my bmw though, you changed the filter on top of the engine, made having to jack it up nonessential!


----------



## schwanz (Jan 11, 2008)

turbodreamsI6 said:


> Makes me miss my bmw though, you changed the filter on top of the engine, made having to jack it up nonessential!


Drain plug was on the top, too, I suppose?


----------



## SlammedDubTT (Feb 27, 2010)

WOW I wish my garage floor was that clean:thumbup:


----------



## youlostme21 (Aug 12, 2008)

*How to Change oil. (from dubsinthebuff)*

Oil Change instructions for Women: 

1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last 
oil change. 

2) Drink a cup of coffee. 
3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave, driving a properly maintained 
vehicle. 


Money spent: 
Oil Change: 
$30.00 

Coffee: $1.00 
Total: $31.00 

========== 


Oil Change instructions for Men: 

1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, 
filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, 
use your debit card for $50.00. 
2) Stop by 7/11 and buy a case of beer, (debit $20), drive home. 
3) Open a beer and drink it. 
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands. 

5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car. 
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it. 
7) Place drain pan under engine. 
8) Look for 19mm box end wrench. 
9) Give up and use crescent wrench. 
10) Unscrew drain plug. 
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. 
Cuss. 
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw 
kitty litter on spilled oil. 
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain. 
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench. 
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter 
and twist off. (for non-canister style) 
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil 
everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash 
in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer. 
17) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to 
gasket surface. 

18) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine. 
19) Remember drain plug from step 11.. 
20) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan. 
21) Drink beer. 
22) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty 
litter on oil spill. 
23) Get drain plug back in with only a minor spill. Drink beer. 
24) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag 
used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug 
and bang knuckles on frame removing any excess skin between knuckles and 
frame. 
25) Begin cussing fit. 
26) Throw stupid crescent wrench. 
27) Cuss for additional 5 minutes because wrench hit bowling trophy.. 
28) Beer. 
29) Clean up hands and bandage as required to stop blood flow. 
30) Beer. 
31) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.. 
32) Beer. 
33) Lower car from jack stands. 
34) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during 
any missed steps. 
35) Beer. 
36) Test drive car. 
37) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence. 
38) Car gets impounded. 
39) Call loving wife, make bail. 
40) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard. 


Money spent: 
Parts: $50.00 
DUI: $2500.00 
Impound fee: $75.00 
Bail: $1500.00 
Beer: $20..00 
Total: $4,145.00 
But you know the job was done right!


----------



## EMill (Sep 8, 2010)

Followed this thread to complete my first oil change on the GTI. 

Thanks


----------



## rainierfuller (Jan 11, 2010)

Same as the guy above me. this made the process a breeze.:thumbup:


----------



## 1.8T_GoLF (Jan 22, 2008)

*96 mk3 vr6 oil leaking*

So I see when I turn my car on I see a stream of oil falling off the oil cooling housing. Could this men the housing is bad or ????? I took it off and put it on twice and same s*it..... any ideas??


----------



## undwirtanzten (Feb 9, 2011)

Mike VR6 said:


> Nice.....but my additions would be:
> Put a large piece of cardboard under the drain pan so you don't mess up your garage floor
> 
> 
> ...


i recommend large or xtra large pizza boxes, work great.


----------



## undwirtanzten (Feb 9, 2011)

zkat said:


> Jeez Louise... I just skimmed two pages of posts...on how to change my oil???
> 
> Ok, why in this whole thoughtful and illuminating thread, has no one asked the obvious? Why on earth does my 1993 Volkswagen have on oil filter last seen on a 1962 Chevy Impala??? The last (and first) time I changed a canister-style oil filter was on a friend's '62 Impala SS. What gives, VW???


motorcycles have been using canister style filters for decades.........


----------



## undwirtanzten (Feb 9, 2011)

VgRt6 said:


> The cap is only supposed to be torqued to 18 ft-lbs and can easily be broken if you torque it higher.


if this is true, i think the diy should be edited....it says 30nm, or is 30 nm metric? my torque wrench only shows ft-lbs......so i will be torqueing both to 18.....


----------



## NathanC5 (Mar 11, 2011)

Can anyone help me with a part number for the splash guard?


----------



## HobgoblinVR6 (Nov 3, 2010)

*thanks*

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: thanks this really helped me out a lot ive done oil changes but never one with an oil housing at all


----------



## PranK (Dec 29, 2010)

Great write up, thanks!


----------



## deadleavesdie (Jun 26, 2006)

xanthus said:


> Where is everyone recycling their oil?
> I have a couple oil changes worth of dirty oil I need to get rid of.
> Oh, and I hand tighten the oil filter housing, and hand loosen it, I never have torqued it down with any type of tool. I have yet to get a leak.


I'm almost certain that anyplace that sells oil also has to take it in return for recycling. As far as shops, and auto parts stores.


----------



## kmcnish420 (Jun 16, 2006)

JeddaIIBock said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *Mike VR6* »_Nice.....but my additions would be:
> Put a large piece of cardboard under the drain pan so you don't mess up your garage floor
> 
> 
> ...


Not filling your oil filter housing is fine. The oil pump will fill it in less than a sec and your internals are still covered in a coat of oil unless you let it sit for hours with no oil in it. Also you don't need to torque down (or up anyway haha) the oil filter housing. Use a rag and tighten it all the way by hand. (unless your a total whimp then just have someone with some balls do it). This DIY is great regardless of which way you do it. Ive done hundreds of oil changes and this explains it perfect. As for you who are worried of getting you or your floor dirty..suck it up. Oil changes are easy and you cant mess it up. Primed or not it wont hurt anything.


----------



## PSU (May 15, 2004)

Thanks for the write-up.

Makes it seem like a breeze.


----------



## Twiztids4 (Mar 24, 2010)

Sweet gloves


----------



## cabriosnap (Apr 24, 2009)

good write up. matco offer's a low profile filter socket for he vr6 engine. i bought a set of sockets for canister styles that ran about 50 bucks. i believe you can get the individual socket for around $15.


----------



## litlekris (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks, appreciate the time it took to write up as saved me some and made me more confident before I got under my mk3.. 

Cheers!


----------



## gangstafun (Mar 7, 2011)

Just so everyone knows, Advance Auto Parts now are the exclusive retail auto parts store that sell Mann oil filters. Some small places may, but when I spoke with the Mann rep when she came into my work, Oreileys, Napa, Pep Boys, and auto zone all do not carry them. Anyways, buy whichever oil change special is going. Right now for 20.99 I believe, you get 5qts Valvolien and a purolator filter. Purchase that, then exchange just the filter, which will give you 7.99 towards the Mann filter. So for about 25 bucks, you get the Mann filter and 5qts of oil.


----------



## BaronDeMarathon (Aug 2, 2012)

*Brief answer to my curiosity*

I recently purchased a 2001 VR6. It's never over heated, but lately I had to do a repair on a main coolant hose due to a malfunction with my thermostat. I'm 18 and I've never owned a car previously, but I absolutely love this vehicle. I live in the Florida Keys ( with temperatures that can exceed 106 degrees Fahrenheit, sometimes even more if the humidity is above 45%). I'm currently using 5w-40 but my friend who's a mechanic recommended that I use 0w-40. I honestly don't know what differentiates both oil densities, and I'd like a second opinion ( he's an apprentice and I'd like some sort of statement that would fortify his statement ). I'm choosing to be prudent because I've heard that VR6's carry a lot of notoriety for overheating. Any precautions or common malfunctions I should be aware of?:wave:


----------



## dogyouare (Aug 10, 2009)

they don't over heat that bad... 
ok i live in fl also in port orange (15min away from Daytona Beach) 

i recommend to u 10w-40. 

also 0w-40 is thinner than 10w-40 (i run 15w-40 which is a kill to most but i love it) 

0w (w means winter temp cold) means when the oil is cold it will flow like water 0 weight but when it get hot it will flow like 40 weight. 

u require thinner oil in upper state where it freeze so it will flow though out engine quicker. but in Florida you want thicker oil so that heat does not let oil brake down too quickly. when oil brake down it get thinner and oil pressure drop and that's not good.


----------



## Kenji (Jul 13, 2001)

BaronDeMarathon said:


> I recently purchased a 2001 VR6. It's never over heated, but lately I had to do a repair on a main coolant hose due to a malfunction with my thermostat. I'm 18 and I've never owned a car previously, but I absolutely love this vehicle. I live in the Florida Keys ( with temperatures that can exceed 106 degrees Fahrenheit, sometimes even more if the humidity is above 45%). I'm currently using 5w-40 but my friend who's a mechanic recommended that I use 0w-40. I honestly don't know what differentiates both oil densities, and I'd like a second opinion ( he's an apprentice and I'd like some sort of statement that would fortify his statement ). I'm choosing to be prudent because I've heard that VR6's carry a lot of notoriety for overheating. Any precautions or common malfunctions I should be aware of?:wave:


 In general, you should be fine as long as you use an oil that meets the VW 502 Specification (many of which are listed here). And while VR6s do run hot, they don't overheat unless one of the cooling system components (e.g., the radiator fans) breaks.


----------



## carlitos76 (Sep 28, 2012)

*question on how to clear the oil light from dashboard*



FaelinGL said:


> I haven't seen a really good one of these out there, so whipped this up while I was changing the oil on my VR6 last weekend.
> *CHANGING THE OIL AND OIL FILTER ON A MKIV 12V VR6*
> The following procedure will outline the steps to change the oil and oil filter on a MKIV VR6, 12V. It is important to remember that the procedures are different whether you have a 12V or a 24V. For changing your oil on a 24V, refer to http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=650410. Much respect to *jbrams* for doing the original work on this.
> There are many avenues of thought on replacing your oil. Some opt with the 3000 mile religious routine, while others run their synthetic for upwards of 15000 miles. I fall somewhere in-between; I change mine every 5000 miles. This DIY is not intended to tell you when to change your oil, but how.
> ...


thats a great help man nice write up and pics.. can you let me know how to clear my oil pressure light on my 2001 vw jetta vrs thanks man appreciate it!!!! Regards, Carlos


----------



## Goldenstatety (Jan 16, 2013)

Thanks for the awesome DIY, just bought my first VW, had no idea how to change the oil and this made it beyond simple! Cheers!!:beer:


----------



## 3WheelnGTi (Jan 19, 2008)

:thumbup:


----------



## IMundo_life (Mar 15, 2013)

Maybe someone here could help me with my problem.
I recently did the timing, clutch, flywheel, and water pump on my 2000 Jetta VR6. 
i decided to go with full synthetic 5w-40 castrol oil. 
My problem is that in the morning when my engine is cold, the car starts up perfectly.
as soon as the engine is warm it begins to rattle:banghead::banghead::banghead:, im thinking one of my rods is loose, but someone told me my oil is too thin and that if i just replace it with thicker oil it will be ok and the rattle will go away.

I dont know enough about engine Oil to make this call
any ideas?


----------



## BabaBooey (Jul 18, 2009)

Thanks for doing this DIY, I just did my OC today for the first time myself and can't believe how simple and cheaper it was. Thank you sir!


----------



## soupercoupe (Jan 30, 2015)

*dont take short cuts unless you are aware of the results*



Mike VR6 said:


> Nice.....but my additions would be:
> Put a large piece of cardboard under the drain pan so you don't mess up your garage floor
> 
> 
> ...


_"the step where you add oil into the filter is unnecessary in my opinion."_

I thought that step is a good idea, I never considered it before until now, it would make sense as it would be a few seconds less for system to prime which
means a few less seconds of oil starvation while filter is being pumped full by oil pump. Just a another trick to have car last longer in the long run.
I also notice an oil leak dripping from the bottom of oil filter assembly and of course first culprit I look at is the large oil filter o-ring or the filter housing plug o-ring 
or even in fact the plastic bottom part of the housing I all replaced all of those and it still leaked!, so the next area I looked was where the aluminum oil filter housing
bolts to the engine block, THAT WAS THE CULPRIT! is a special injection molded seal and mine was hard as rock! Once I replaced that leak was gone! FYI!


----------

