# Built Engine: Big Turbo: Heavily Modified engines(aftermarket cams) what Engine Oil?



## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

_Built Engine: Big Turbo: Heavily Modified engines(aftermarket cams) what Oil?_

*AS the topic states what Engine oil product are you using? *

I have been running Mobil 1 0w-40 since new with over 50k miles on different Big turbo(80k total miles) setups and always replacing seals and gaskets due to oil leaks(its some really thin oil). 

What Brand?

What Weight?

Any additives?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

here in hawaii i'm running 15-50 with 8k or so intervals. oil test has com eup clean. motul oil as of last oil change, pentosin before that.

when i ship my car, i will be swtiching to a lighter weight as i will actually see outside temps below 70*


motul FTW:beer:

i say run 10-40 motul, this one..

http://www.sears.com/motul-839451-6100-synergie-10w-40-technosynthese/p-SPM7359011402P


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## lewp91 (May 9, 2011)

Vegeta Gti said:


> here in hawaii i'm running 15-50 with 8k or so intervals. oil test has com eup clean. motul oil as of last oil change, pentosin before that.
> 
> when i ship my car, i will be swtiching to a lighter weight as i will actually see outside temps below 70*
> 
> ...


all this time and i never realised you dont actually live main land US... mind blown.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

lol, that is changing in a few weeks :]

back to the mainland for work. well traveling between hawai and mainland...more mainland though.:beer:

i am 50k+ on my BT setup. which saw break in during the winter on eastcoast, then cross country immediately, through rockies, then life here in the ocean.

i am cams, head work, built head, block,etc,etc. 25psi daily.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Over 50k big turbo miles on Mobil 1 10w 30 full synthetic. I love the oil, try some 10w 30 :thumbup:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

Brad Penn 10w-40!


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## xXGti2006Xx (Feb 14, 2006)

I run either motul xmax or amsoil european blend 5w40


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## baileysjetta (Feb 22, 2007)

*oil*

castrol sy:thumbup:ntec 5w50


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## 20thgti2376 (Aug 30, 2008)

Mobil 1 15w-50......2.0l 20V 9.5:1 AEB dbb 5858 500whp+


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## Aronc (Jan 30, 2006)

I run Amsoil European blend 5w40 with the big passat filter in sunny south florida


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

german castrol 0w40


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

when i put my iecva1's in they told me to run a higher zinc oil

brad penn makes one, valvoline makes one

or you can run an additive


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

I personally used to run mobil 1 0w-40. as you said its super thin and seemed to just barely get the job done. Recently switched to castrol SLX 5w-30 and I am decently pleased with the first two changes.


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## Gulfstream (Jul 28, 2010)

Fuchs Silkolene Pro R 15W-50 Race Engine Oil


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

No love for Rotella?


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## EF9Si (Dec 12, 2003)

hootyburra said:


> No love for Rotella?


I'm running rotella as we speak.:thumbup: I'm between castrol and rotella.


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## Mike Pauciullo (Jan 8, 2009)

Brad Penn 20-50. I was running vr-1 but the lifters were all beat up. I spoke to someone about it and they said it was from running crappy oil (VR-!) so I switched to Brad Penn and never had a issue since.


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

Mike Pauciullo said:


> Brad Penn 20-50. I was running vr-1 but the lifters were all beat up. I spoke to someone about it and they said it was from running crappy oil (VR-!) so I switched to Brad Penn and never had a issue since.


awesome oil for big power/race motors. but for an everyday street car the 10-40 penn grade is perfect, and actually my friends 1300rwhp Supra only uses the Brad Penn 10-40:thumbup:


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

I know when I put my stroker block in with stock head/turbo I filled it with 0w-40 and I would get low oil pressure when deaccelerating down hills.. Low enough the light would flash on, got my freaked out!

with the new head. and my 71r 72a/r set up going on I'm swapping to 10w-40 mobil 1, because when I took the old head off there was a TON of carbon build up for the small amount of miles I had driven the new block around(less then 2,000 miles). I had changed the old twice already(once ot get the break in oil out and once again at 500 where I dropped the pan to check for metal and such and up in a new pick up tube for piece of mind). I have good reason to believe the 0w-40 is just too thin for the clearances for stroker pistons and such. I'll report back once the car is up and running with the 10w-40 in it. If the oil pressure problems persist I'm thinking about stepping up to 10w-50, but Im in southern California so YMMV depending on how cold/hot it gets around you.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Cryser said:


> I know when I put my stroker block in with stock head/turbo I filled it with 0w-40 and I would get low oil pressure when deaccelerating down hills.. Low enough the light would flash on, got my freaked out!
> 
> with the new head. and my 71r 72a/r set up going on I'm swapping to 10w-40 mobil 1, because when I took the old head off there was a TON of carbon build up for the small amount of miles I had driven the new block around(less then 2,000 miles). I had changed the old twice already(once ot get the break in oil out and once again at 500 where I dropped the pan to check for metal and such and up in a new pick up tube for piece of mind). I have good reason to believe the 0w-40 is just too thin for the clearances for stroker pistons and such. I'll report back once the car is up and running with the 10w-40 in it. If the oil pressure problems persist I'm thinking about stepping up to 10w-50, but Im in southern California so YMMV depending on how cold/hot it gets around you.


:beer: mobil oil's have been great for my engine so far.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Anything with high zddp. The lifters need it. The man took it away from us in the newer oils. Our lifters and cams will go flast fast without it.


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## DanA4 (Feb 28, 2011)

Rotella T6 is boss. Been handling this kind of treatment for a while now.


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## xlr8nrg (Dec 3, 2008)

Agreed Rotella T6 or mobile 1 15w50 here... Rotella being the first choice, since they took the extra zinc out of Mobile I hear.


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

xlr8nrg said:


> Agreed Rotella T6 or mobile 1 15w50 here... Rotella being the first choice, since they took the extra zinc out of Mobile I hear.


They took the extra zinc out of ALL street oils, including Rotella T6. The govt forced it, not the oil companies. If you want zinc, which these motors do need, either run an additive, or a race oil - "for offroad use only" like the brad penn, etc.


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> They took the extra zinc out of ALL street oils, including Rotella T6. The govt forced it, not the oil companies. If you want zinc, which these motors do need, either run an additive, or a race oil - "for offroad use only" like the brad penn, etc.


Yes because zinc destroys platinum in cat convertors. If you don't run a cat, no worries; if you do run a cat, prepare to replace them more frequently if you use zddp additives.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

I have ran mobil 1 0w-40 for a long time without issue but am thinking of switching to thicker this change as it's starting to leak out one of the oil seals into compressor housing.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

boosted b5 said:


> Brad Penn 10w-40!


Seems to be the best choice with higher levels of zddp to help with cam wear and lifter wear.

1400ppm Zinc
1200ppm Phos



20thgti2376 said:


> Mobil 1 15w-50......2.0l 20V 9.5:1 AEB dbb 5858 500whp+


That seems like a good choice with great zddp level

1300ppm zinc
1200ppm phos



ascgti89 said:


> I run Amsoil European blend 5w40 with the big passat filter in sunny south florida


Passat filter is a must cant seem to find the zinc phos levels on there website. The AMSOIL Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil with claimed "higher" higher zddp level, cant seem to find that info either



boosted b5 said:


> awesome oil for big power/race motors. but for an everyday street car the 10-40 penn grade is perfect, and actually my friends 1300rwhp Supra only uses the Brad Penn 10-40:thumbup:


10w-40 Brad Penn seems like the Perfect Street, high HP, large cam, oil setup. Keeping the Oil changes around 3k intervals or once a year should do the trick. 

The Mobil 1 15w-50 seems to be a good choice as well


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> They took the extra zinc out of ALL street oils, including Rotella T6. The govt forced it, not the oil companies. If you want zinc, which these motors do need, either run an additive, or a race oil - "for offroad use only" like the brad penn, etc.


Rotella T6 5w-40 is a CJ-4 formulated Diesel oil, it is not a low zinc GF-5 formulation. Thus it still has a reasonable level of zinc and phosphates. Source BITOG and Blackstone Labs:


Shell Rotella T 5w40 VOA ('old' CJ-4 formulation) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...owflat&Main=158558&Number=2330292#Post2330292
Zn 1252 ppm
P 1105 ppm
Mo 61 ppm

Shell Rotella T6 5w40 VOA ('new' CJ-4 formulation) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...owflat&Main=158546&Number=2330040#Post2330040
Zn 1264 ppm
P 1147 ppm
Mo 59 ppm


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Here's a link to Zinc and Phophorous on Amsoil recommended oils for HP flat tappet cams.

https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB MO-2007-08-08 Flat Tappet.pdf


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## Rac_337 (Sep 24, 2004)

Rotella T6 + Zinc


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Small cams, tiny turbo - love my Rotella T6


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

mobil 1 5-40 diesel truck blend has it, just referenced my blackstone labs report after 6k miles was still over 1000


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

Bradd penn 10-40 or Rotella T6 0w-40 with lucas zinc additive


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Budsdubbin said:


> Bradd penn 10-40 or Rotella T6 0w-40 with lucas zinc additive


Does Rotella t6 come in 0w-40? i thought it was only 5w-40.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Dub-Nub said:


> Does Rotella t6 come in 0w-40? i thought it was only 5w-40.


Yep... the T6 Synthetic is only available in 5W-40.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Found a link with some great info on Zinc and Phosphorus levels in a large variety of Synthetic oils:

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=33841.0;wap2


*Name Viscosity PH (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Detergents (ppm) API Date Type Source

Amerilube 10w50 1254 1115 3001 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil AFL Euro 5w40 701 804 50 1452 SL 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil HDEO 5w40 794 1081 2276 CJ-4 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil Series 2000 Racing 20w50 1014 1123 12 3209 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil V-Twin/MC 20w50 1193 1281 3564 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 434 532 165 1601 SL 08/06 SEMI Blackstone
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 334 1096 209 3061 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Act Evo 20w50 765 1126 1724 SG 05/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol GPS 4STK MC2 20w50 767 1133 1544 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Castrol GTX 20w50 1157 1422 1848 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Castrol GTX High Mile 20w50 1248 1382 1848 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol Syntec 5w40 786 918 1979 SL 09/06 SYN Blackstone
Castrol Syntec 5w50 921 914 58 2628 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Castrol Syntec Blend 20w50 937 916 1197 SM 03/07 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 965 1094 46 2461 CI-4 3/07 DINO Blackstone
Castrol TWS 10w60 425 1294 111 2383 SJ 06/06 SYN Staveley
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 1191 1622 3668 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Delvac 1 5w40 1390 1803 76 2583 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 1380 1702 78 2388 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Elf 505.01 VW 5w40 584 1092 2691 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Exxon Av Break-in oil 20w50 1 4 23 N/A 11/05 DINO Staveley
Exxon Av Oil 20w50 702 32 33 N/A 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Exxon Superflow 20w50 717 848 96 2650 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Ford Motorcraft 5w20 545 848 298 2005 SM 01/07 SEMI Staveley
Harley Davidson Syn3 20w50 1081 1182 264 1482 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Havoline 20w50 425 494 87 1049 SM 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Joe Gibbs Racing XP5 20w50 920 1231 504 SG 04/07 SEMI Blackstone
Kendal GT (Vintage) 20W50 1229 1415 2408 SE 11/05 DINO Blackstone
Kendall GT 20w50 904 1233 2885 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Kendall GT 10w30 582 872 278 1416 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Kendall GT 10w40 598 897 282 1565 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Lucas High Perf. Motor Oil 20w50 386 460 214 1079 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 761 876 167 2630 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 796 907 178 2650 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 808 976 185 3256 SL 04/03 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 706 834 148 2246 SM 02/05 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 15w50 952 1030 41 2175 SM 03/07 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1193 1376 228 2970 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1062 1279 79 2485 SM 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 906 1024 72 2071 SM 01/06 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1315 1428 226 2593 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1277 1460 188 2025 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1411 1623 188 2248 SG 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 R 0w30 1399 1536 178 3051 SG 02/04 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 Super Syn 15w50 1343 1390 205 2601 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w40 1034 1247 51 2826 CI-4 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 V Twin 20w50 1329 1949 204 2130 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 5k Clean 10w40 660 1028 2895 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Mobil High Mile 10w40 527 1021 2844 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Motul 300V Competition 5w40 1317 1409 19 3273 SH 04/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 300V Competition 15w50 1139 1130 20 2410 SH 05/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 505.01 VW 5w40 973 1226 2830 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Competition 15w50 1148 1327 11 2723 SH 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Tekma Mega 15w40 1220 1737 145 3469 CI-4 05/06 DINO Staveley
Mystik 15w40 1130 1224 3104 CI-4 03/07 DINO Staveley
Mystik 10w50 700 799 2003 CI-4 03/07 SEMI Blackstone
Pennzoil 20w50 501 800 223 2062 SM 01/07 DINO Staveley
Quaker State Q Full Syn 5w50 923 908 1917 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Redline 15w50 924 1004 27 2287 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Redline 10w40 1440 1872 3039 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Rotella 15w40 843 946 26 1881 CJ-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Rotella 15w40 996 1130 32 2054 CJ-4 04/07 DINO Staveley
Rotella 15w40 1278 1555 2946 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Rotella 5w40 1397 1552 2921 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple 20w50 668 763 2034 SJ 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple 20w50 1290 1337 3295 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w40 4085 1222 2599 SJ 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3179 1030 2142 SJ 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3907 1458 2478 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Racing 51 20w50 1285 1417 2639 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple XPR 10w40 1034 1741 2709 SJ 12/06 SYN Blackstone
Schaeffer 7000 Supreme 20w50 1249 1626 2451 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Schaeffer 9000 Supreme 5w40 1113 1315 10 3126 SL 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Torco SR-1 20w50 363 412 759 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco SR-5 20w50 1072 830 10 1481 SG 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco T-4SR 20w50 1059 969 1293 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Torco TR-1 20w50 670 571 958 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco V Series ST 20w50 1030 1286 2231 SG 05/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline All Fleet Plus 15w40 1110 1232 3559 CI-4 10/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Durablend 20w50 566 732 13 2606 SM 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline Max Life 20w50 691 879 17 2170 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Prem. Blue 15w40 1314 1838 158 4329 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 20w50 605 689 1786 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Valvoline VR1 20w50 1085 1293 17 2242 SL 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 835 976 10 819 SL 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 842 962 11 838 SL 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Bardahl No Leak/Smoke 53 4 0 11/05 O/A Staveley
Boron Motor Silk 116 0 05/06 O/A Staveley
CD-2 Maxx Detergent 1 7 2416 11/05 O/A Staveley
CMW Racing Concentrate 2292 1147 358 06/06 O/A Staveley
GM Cam Lifter Prelube 5710 5876 29004 01/07 O/A Blackstone
GM EOS Assembly Lube 5762 6221 8265 01/07 O/A Blackstone
Lucas Oil Stabilizer 36 13 0 01/07 O/A Staveley
Power Service Oil Extender 3567 4945 6394 11/05 O/A Staveley
Schaeffer Micron Moly 110 5 0 08/06 O/A Staveley
STP Blue 1704 2436 88 11/05 O/A Staveley
STP Red 2115 3932 901 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Max Life Protect 537 768 22 3871 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 356 551 650 11/05 O/A Staveley

Here are the running averages for all the oils tested thusfar:

API P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Mo (ppm) Ca (ppm) Mg (ppm) Na (ppm) Total Detergents
SE-SJ 1301 1280 151 357 1936 293 214 2443
CI-4 1150 1374 83 80 2642 199 2840
SL 994 1182 133 273 2347 109 22 2479
CJ-4 819 1014 26 2075 7 2082
SM 770 939 127 122 2135 13 139 2287 *


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## jbutlertelecom (Aug 12, 2009)

For a good read refer to this page: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

BTW..Amsoil has just released the Full SAPS version of their 5w-40 Euro oil ( EFM ). Trying to get some specs on it, but it appears to be the " older " formualtion before European oils were forced to go low SAPS ( Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulpher ... all high pressure additives ) .

EFM Specs:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/efm.aspx

AFL Specs:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

An added bonus is that the full SAPS version ( EFM = $7.40 qt ) is considerably cheaper than the low SAPS version ( AFL = $10.15 qt ):

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motor-oil-engine-oil

The Amsoil AMO 10w-40 is also a very good formulation for HP engines. Non " Eco " ( as are most heavier weight oils ), Check out the TBN:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Got a bit bored..so did some surfing. A very good read on the latest developments in motor oils:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Check out some of the footnotes.

#8:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/383410-Audi-oil-reference-all-you-ever-wanted-to-know


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

speaking of tbn, the blackstone report from the truck on rotella t6 at 6k miles still had a tbn of 7.4. With that being said, the shearing forces that the high pressure oil system of the 6.0 puts out, stands to prove the oil takes a beating quite well.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Chickenman35 said:


> Found a link with some great info on Zinc and Phosphorus levels in a large variety of Synthetic oils:
> 
> http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=33841.0;wap2
> 
> ...



I did some work converting this to a better readable state. The last 20 entries were not included since they were not really oils and i didnt know what the numbers aligned with.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjtiUX_dummXdHFSSFQwODF5VWUwZVA5eVM5UnVHelE

After a bit more research i was able to locate a table that already had it separated out and more oils

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjtiUX_dummXdHhCMWRScmdBanZQWS1KckRvdjZLanc


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## All_Euro (Jul 20, 2008)

Dub-Nub said:


> I did some work converting this to a better readable state.
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjtiUX_dummXdHFSSFQwODF5VWUwZVA5eVM5UnVHelE


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## jbrehm (May 16, 2006)

Huge thanks to Chicken and Dub :thumbup:

Threads like this - you know, ones with actual data and info - restore my faith in the internetz.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

jbrehm said:


> Huge thanks to Chicken and Dub :thumbup:
> 
> Threads like this - you know, ones with actual data and info - restore my faith in the internetz.


I found an even better table with more oil.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjtiUX_dummXdHhCMWRScmdBanZQWS1KckRvdjZLanc


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

So the 10w-40 seems to be working well, the oil light did start to flash while I was very lightly going through a neighborhood right after a few hard pulls. My engine bay get HOT as HELL now though so I'm thinking of going to XXw-50 weight until I can get some sort of oil cooler or a cowl hood to vent some of this heat. I saw 20w-50 on IE site and it's even cheaper then the 10w-40 I'm running now but I'm kinda worried about going up to 20 even though I live in southern california and rarely start the car up before 10:00am on saturday I do have to get up early (7am) that it's still kinda cold outside. I have no problem idling the car up to let oil get everywhere I usually do for a good 30seconds to a 1min then drive around out of boost and slowly until at full operating temp. Do you guys think 20w-50 would be a good weight to run or would I be better served with 10w-50?


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Cryser. Mobile makes a 15w-50 that works better for highly stressed engines. You might want to give that a go. Should be no problem in Southern California as far as ambient temps. 

BTW..Amsoil is better than Mobile 1 as far as maintaining viscosity in high temps. A local Autocrosser has a Datsun 240Z with a Rover V8 ( Buick all aluminium V8 ). These motors have a horrible oiling system that beats the snot out of oil nad produces tremendous heat in the oil. Amsoil 20-50 was the only oil that would not lose viscosity over the season.

I'm not a big fan of Mobile 1 as I've found it thins out considerably with heat. Amsoil, Redline and a few others maintain their viscosity much better. You might want to try the Amsoil 10w-40 AMO brand. Check out the TBN.. 12.1!!

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

I was waiting for Chickenman to come and bless this thread!:thumbup::thumbup::beer:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Chickenman35 said:


> Cryser. Mobile makes a 15w-50 that works well for highly stressed engines. You might want to give that a go. Should be no problem in Southern California as far as ambient temps.
> 
> BTW..Amsoil is better than Mobile 1 as far as maintaining viscosity in high temps. A local Autocrosser has a Datsun 240Z with a Rover V8 ( Buick all aluminium V8 ). These motors have a horrible oiling system that beats the snot out of oil nad produces tremendous heat in the oil. Amsoil 20-50 was the only oil that would not lose viscosity over the season.
> 
> ...



Right.... Mobil 1 is crap. I would not run that in any VW that is cam over bucket. Could probably get away with it in my MKVI 2.5 that is roller rocker.


Lots of subaru folks spin rod bearings running it. I'm actually moving my 07 Roller rocker setup impreza to a 5w40 blend for the HTHS rating they carry. Mobil 1 turns into water with high rpm use.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Cryser said:


> So the 10w-40 seems to be working well, the oil light did start to flash while I was very lightly going through a neighborhood right after a few hard pulls. My engine bay get HOT as HELL now though so I'm thinking of going to XXw-50 weight until I can get some sort of oil cooler or a cowl hood to vent some of this heat. I saw 20w-50 on IE site and it's even cheaper then the 10w-40 I'm running now but I'm kinda worried about going up to 20 even though I live in southern california and rarely start the car up before 10:00am on saturday I do have to get up early (7am) that it's still kinda cold outside. I have no problem idling the car up to let oil get everywhere I usually do for a good 30seconds to a 1min then drive around out of boost and slowly until at full operating temp. Do you guys think 20w-50 would be a good weight to run or would I be better served with 10w-50?




Dude.... what do you have done? I ran 5w40 Total 9000 in a 3076 R jetta cammed with a ZDDP additive... I've never seen an oil light ever. 

Sure you do not have sludge problems or a dying oil pump?

BTW said motor has 190k on a never opened bottom end also......... had a head put on at 100k due to timing belt toss.


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## zerb (Mar 18, 2005)

Brad Penn 20W-50


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

First thing I always do with any modded cars is install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Surprising how many guys don't run them...


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

gdoggmoney said:


> Dude.... what do you have done? I ran 5w40 Total 9000 in a 3076 R jetta cammed with a ZDDP additive... I've never seen an oil light ever.
> 
> Sure you do not have sludge problems or a dying oil pump?
> 
> BTW said motor has 190k on a never opened bottom end also......... had a head put on at 100k due to timing belt toss.


Good point. Even with a thin 10w-40 ( Like Mobile 1 ) the oil light should not be coming on. I wonder if the bearing clearances are a bit on the loose side as well? 

How many miles on the bottom end Cryser?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Chickenman35 said:


> First thing I always do with any modded cars is install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Surprising how many guys don't run them...


I think Cryser needs to at least drop one in for a while to monitor... something isn't right.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

gdoggmoney said:


> I think Cryser needs to at least drop one in for a while to monitor... something isn't right.


I agree.. opcorn:


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

i got an oil light twice lol... but i was road racing, hard brakes and or tossing it into a corner hard = G loading and need a baffled pan lol or DRY SUMP


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

theswoleguy said:


> i got an oil light twice lol... but i was road racing, hard brakes and or tossing it into a corner hard = G loading and need a baffled pan lol or DRY SUMP


Exactly, it is expected there on a stock system.


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

Well I have an electric oil pressure gauge, but I've seen the it change readings when I put on the headlights and such. So I only trust the readings when there is no electrical load on the car.

there is about 2,000 miles on the bottom end, it's a stroker bottom end.

My thinking is that the oil is thinning out too much once everything starts getting hot. I'm sure it;'s not sludge as I cleaned everything out before assembly and even change the pick up tube again 500 miles after the first oil change for peace of mind. WHile I'm driving the pressure is fine, it's just at idle after getting hot the oil pressure will take a dive.

THink I'm gonna start looking into Amsoil, redline, royal purple, or brad penn as I've been told they hold visocity much better then mobil 1.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Cryser said:


> Well I have an electric oil pressure gauge, but I've seen the it change readings when I put on the headlights and such. So I only trust the readings when there is no electrical load on the car.
> 
> there is about 2,000 miles on the bottom end, it's a stroker bottom end.
> 
> ...




Dude, I've held my car at 4-5k rpm high speed...... in heavy heat.... NEVER seen an oil light. That also was including times when it had mobil 1 5w30 when it was just a beater, bone stock and high mileage.

On the flip side, perhaps your oil light sensor is bad? That has been known to happen.

Time to investigate, I would investigate before dropping hundreds on different oils....


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Cryser said:


> Well I have an electric oil pressure gauge, but I've seen the it change readings when I put on the headlights and such. So I only trust the readings when there is no electrical load on the car.
> 
> there is about 2,000 miles on the bottom end, it's a stroker bottom end.
> 
> ...


maybe their gas oil is starting to suck but my motor when it came apart from hell looked great minus the one assploded valve (8k+ stock valvetrain road racing) but my report of diesel mobile 5-40 is great. may just switch to that in the car...


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

gdoggmoney said:


> Dude, I've held my car at 4-5k rpm high speed...... in heavy heat.... NEVER seen an oil light. That also was including times when it had mobil 1 5w30 when it was just a beater, bone stock and high mileage.
> 
> On the flip side, perhaps your oil light sensor is bad? That has been known to happen.
> 
> Time to investigate, I would investigate before dropping hundreds on different oils....


See that's the thing in the high rpms and cruise it's perfectly fine, its just when I'm normally off throttle coasting down in the 2K range the light will come on flash for a second or 2 then go away. Also only happens if I'm coasting down in gear, if I pop it out of gear never seen it come on.

I'll test the oil light when I have a chance if not today, weds


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

So I tested the light and it works fine, also I installed a mishimoto 3 row dual pass radiator and my oil pressure issues have all but vanished. Oil pressure will get down to 10PSI at idle sometimes but will usually be around 15PSI, this is still on the electric gauge. I hooked a mechanical up to it after the mishi install and it was holding 15-20PSI at idle until the fans kicked on. After that we shut her down and took the gauge off and replaced it with the electric one again. After I put the electric gauge back in it read same as the mechanical. I re routed the wires to the sender and will be adding another ground to the sender as well just for the sake of it. 

All in All I had a suspicion the oil was just getting too hot and it seems I was right. Gonna be changing the oil when I get back from the Thunderhill 25hr race weekend and I really want to move away from Mobil 1. Going to be looking for a true group IV syn. What do you guys think about 5w50s? Seems to be right up our alley from what I gather they tend to sheer down to a w40 if not I'm gonna give amsoil 10w-40 a go as it has been proven to hold it's viscosity and is a true group IV real syn. 

Also for the sake of being paranoid I'm gonna be wrapping the oil feed line to the turbo with some DEI heat sheathing since over the exhaust manifold and wastegate dump do get a tad hot


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

The Amsoil AMO 10w-40 would be an excellent choice. 

A 5w-50 is a huge spread. Lot of VI additives used to get that range. What oil brand was the 5w-50? Personally, I'm not comfortable with that wide of a spread. 

As you've found out, Mobile 1 thins out way too much with heat. I've encountered the same thing. You'll be happy with the Amsoil. 

Regarding the Oil pressure gauge. Why not run a mechanical? They are faster reacting and more reliable than electrical in the long run.


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## Cryser (Sep 9, 2009)

Chickenman35 said:


> A 5w-50 is a huge spread. Lot of VI additives used to get that range. What oil brand was the 5w-50? Personally, I'm not comfortable with that wide of a spread.


 It was pennzoil platinum, but the huge spread had me worried a bit 



Chickenman35 said:


> Regarding the Oil pressure gauge. Why not run a mechanical? They are faster reacting and more reliable than electrical in the long run.


 The mechanical gauge I used was a shop gauge, not something that could be installed in the car for a permanent use. I'm gonna look into getting a permanent mechanical gauge soon in the future, but for now the electrical gauge is working much better with the wires rerouted, I'll be adding a bigger ground wire to the sender today.


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## joe'sGTI (Jun 12, 2007)

Pentosin 5w40.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Some great info i found some time back. I meant to put this in toms thread but this seems more appropriate. 

http:// http://store.forcedperforma...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf


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## Michaelmkiv (Dec 1, 2012)

the oil type itself is up to you but the best brand of oil you can buy is liqui-moly. its expensive but you get what you pay for


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## Turbo freak (May 9, 2005)

I don´t have cams in my jetta 1.8T fully forged and stroked to 2.0 with GT35R but i use pentosin pento high performance II 5w-40. This oil has the VW oil specification 505.01 that is for VW TDI PD (pumpe-duse). This oil is for gasoline and diesel use tho. 

For those who don´t know about that TDI PD engine, the cam lobes pushes against the lifter to open the valve and also to the diesel pump of each cylinder that pressurizes the diesel to 30,000 psi. Every cylinder has its own diesel pump. Timing belt is sized accordingly big. 

That should be extreme work for the oil preventing wear between the cam and the lifter. I also own a TDI Jetta with the PD engine runnnig on pentosin oil too. I heard a lot of TDI owners that suffer from cam wear just because they don´t know what kind of oil they should use. 

As a side note, after using the pentosin oil, i noticed that my ballbearing turbos lasted for a very long time compared with the mobil 1 i used before.


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

Has anyone tried this ? 
It says vw 502 and 504 approved ! And says its extreme conditions where normal oils don't perform.
If I run my 04 jetta gls 1.8t through mobile 1 web site for the lube shop they recommend 0w40 euro spec.
But if I run the info with a 04 passat 1.8t it will give a diff part number for an oil filter and also recommend this oil 5w30

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...la_5W-30.aspx#


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

Sorry it's this link:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Great thread.. I really want to try the Brad Penn oil


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

Erickxcr said:


> Has anyone tried this ?
> It says vw 502 and 504 approved ! And says its extreme conditions where normal oils don't perform.
> If I run my 04 jetta gls 1.8t through mobile 1 web site for the lube shop they recommend 0w40 euro spec.
> But if I run the info with a 04 passat 1.8t it will give a diff part number for an oil filter and also recommend this oil 5w30
> ...


We use that Mobil 1 5w-30 oil on the Hybrids and Diesels at work due to the 502 specs. Should work great for the 1.8t.

I ran 0w-40 for 70k miles and when I did my build(built head/block) The cam lobes were wiped down and all the lifters were dimpled, That was on stock cams and Big Turbo kits for 40k or so. I wouldn't recommend that oil to anyone!!!!

The oil filter Mobil 1 mentions is the large Passat oil filter, which was used to help sludge buildup in the longitudinal VAG 1.8t motors. I have used that filter for years on my GTI 1.8t.


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## Erickxcr (Oct 31, 2012)

Ok, thanks.
I'm thinking of trying that or the pentosin 5w40 off through ECS. And regular K&N filter on my MK4 .
How about the pentosin ? Any comments on that oil ?


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

I'll try to find the pics but mymotor looked great when it came apart for an exploded valve road racing. 0-40 Mobil all the time and prior/post road racing. I Always changed the oil before and post track sessions, call me cautious or crazy.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

theswoleguy said:


> I'll try to find the pics but mymotor looked great when it came apart for an exploded valve road racing. 0-40 Mobil all the time and prior/post road racing. I Always changed the oil before and post track sessions, call me cautious or crazy.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


Yeah I though it was strange when I did my build and looking at the excessive wear on the cams and lifters(they are used as paperweights now). We use 0w-40 for a majority of the cars at work and every time I tear one down they always look great with no wear. I guess I am the exception:laugh:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

vdubguy97 said:


> Yeah I though it was strange when I did my build and looking at the excessive wear on the cams and lifters(they are used as paperweights now). We use 0w-40 for a majority of the cars at work and every time I tear one down they always look great with no wear. I guess I am the exception:laugh:


Depends on the setup. If you changed valve springs with higher rates, then that can accelerate wear. Zinc and Phosphate levels are really borderline with most 0w-40 oils, which are rated as ECO oils.

Engine temps can thin out the oil, which if you you something like Mobile 1 or Castrol. leaves you with metal to metal contact. I take it you've stepped up to a better oil now? You pretty much have to stay away from all of the 0w-xx oils to get adequate Zinc levels these days.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Turbo freak said:


> I don´t have cams in my jetta 1.8T fully forged and stroked to 2.0 with GT35R but i use pentosin pento high performance II 5w-40. This oil has the VW oil specification 505.01 that is for VW TDI PD (pumpe-duse). This oil is for gasoline and diesel use tho.
> 
> For those who don´t know about that TDI PD engine, the cam lobes pushes against the lifter to open the valve and also to the diesel pump of each cylinder that pressurizes the diesel to 30,000 psi. Every cylinder has its own diesel pump. Timing belt is sized accordingly big.
> 
> ...


That is a very good point and something that has been discussed at length at BITOG. The TDI and also Direct Injection Petrol motors are having huge problems with fuel pump cam bucket wear. All related to Zinc and Phosphorous reduction. Even the DLC ( Diamond Like Coating ) is failing on these engines and others. 

Basically the motor engineers have been out voted by the Eco-crusaders and the bean counters. Reduction of Zn and Phosphates in motor oils is driven purely to.

1: Extend the life of Catalytic Converters beyond 150,000 miles. The previous standard was lower.

2: Reduce the amount of Platinum used in Catalytic converters. This is where the Bean Conters buggered things up. Auto makers could have met the 150,000+ miles EPA requirement...but that would have meant increasing the amount of Platinum in the converters if the old Zn and Ph levels were maintained. 

The Eco-idiots and Bean Counters decided that a better cheaper way, was to reduce ZN and PH in current Motor Oils. Who cares if the damned engines wore out prematurely? A dead engine doesn't pollute right? " Just make sure that the engine warranty runs out.. before the engine wears out. " :facepalm:

Now go out and buy a new $50,000 electric " Golf Cart "..or ride your bicycle 30 miles to work :banghead:


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Back in the " Good Old Days " you used to be able to pick any oil off the shelf and not have to worry about engine wear.

Now, thanks to the Eco-idiots and Bean counters the consumer needs to have a PHD in oil chemistry to figure out which damned product will not reduce his/her new cars engine into a worn out piece of scrap. Even the engine manufacturers engineers don't get it right all the time these days. :banghead:


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

The PD's fail because the cam lobe is way, way, way too thin for the amount of force on it... Zinc would help, but if even DLC is not helping- your design is garbage. It's like that because they had to cram that injection lobe in there where there just wasn't really room. No amount of Zinc is going to fix that issue. 

Almost all new engines have gone to roller cam followers which do not have this issue- there is little sliding wear. Flat tappets are a remnant of the 80's and VW was damn near the last to abandon them with our engines. 

Somehow I don't think the automakers are too concerned about some guys who took their flat tappet engine and increased the load over the nose of the cam by like double. Even without the Zinc, a stock 1.8t will go hundreds of thousands of miles before the cam is worn out...


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## vwturbowolf (Nov 28, 2003)

Just wanted to bump this. Very helpful especially with all the ECO bs today. After reading the Rumandbass's thread about his cams and what oil the previous owner was running it made me want to read through this thread again.

I have been running Castrol 5w50 for about two years.just about 1500 miles tho in those two years. I don't drive it much, but I am probably changing to an off road only race oil soon.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Here is a great piece on oiling:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

*Built Engine: Big Turbo: Heavily Modified engines(aftermarket cams) what Engi...*



vwturbowolf said:


> Just wanted to bump this. Very helpful especially with all the ECO bs today. After reading the Rumandbass's thread about his cams and what oil the previous owner was running it made me want to read through this thread again.
> 
> I have been running Castrol 5w50 for about two years.just about 1500 miles tho in those two years. I don't drive it much, but I am probably changing to an off road only race oil soon.


Race oil is great, IF you drain it frequently. That stuff isn't designed to sit in the crankcase for long periods of time; which would lead me to believe that it wouldn't likely be the best option for your car that rarely sees the light of day.


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## jettaman18t (Sep 14, 2005)

Brad Penn 20w-50. There is an article floating around of all the leading racing oils, and testing that was done on the 4G63 motor. BP has the highest zinc rating of any other racing oil. And its not to badly priced at $8.99 a quart. If integrated engineering swears by it in there racing engines that they build than thats good enough for me. I know a lot of local srt-4 guys run brad penn and also some muscle cars. And the local speed shop near my house sells a lot of it. I wont use mobil 1 again. Its to thin of an oil and the zinc content is less than half of bp. Judging by what my old motor looked like when I was using mobil 1 for the most part, it didn't look to great. From now on bp is the only oil I will ever use.


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## jettaman18t (Sep 14, 2005)

jettaman18t said:


> Brad Penn 20w-50. There is an article floating around of all the leading racing oils, and testing that was done on the 4G63 motor. BP has the highest zinc rating of any other racing oil. And its not to badly priced at $8.99 a quart. If integrated engineering swears by it in there racing engines that they build than thats good enough for me. I know a lot of local srt-4 guys run brad penn and also some muscle cars. And the local speed shop near my house sells a lot of it. I wont use mobil 1 again. Its to thin of an oil and the zinc content is less than half of bp. Judging by what my old motor looked like when I was using mobil 1 for the most part, it didn't look to great. From now on bp is the only oil I will ever use.


I spoke to soon the article is right up top lol ^^^.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I currently use Rotella T HD 15w40 diesel oil for summer

Thinking about a Switch to Rotella T6 5w40 for winter.


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