# f23 full boost at what rpm?



## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

*Low, slow building boost*

2002 audi tt 225 amu, 
mods- phatty tip, intake, divertinator, f23, tubular manifold, mbc at 15psi, at or around where should i be hitting full boost? car feels torqueless doesnt hit full boost til about 4100rpm or above and spools slowly 

vacuum is at 20, holds 15psi til redline, 

known problems, , bad precat 02 sensor, exhaust leak between downpipe and turbo... would these problems cause car to spool slower?


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

What in the hell are you doing racing with NOTHING to control your cars fueling?

No primary 02 sensor and an unplugged MAF...


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> What in the hell are you doing racing with NOTHING to control your cars fueling?
> 
> No primary 02 sensor and an unplugged MAF...


 well im not 100% sure if the primary is bad or its just not getting a correct reading because of the exhaust leak. deff a stupid decision regardless, i cant get the primary 02 in correctly because of the manifold, i would be able to use a spacer would i? that still wouldnt get a correct reading?


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

also when i plug the maf in, it doesnt throw a code for it, but traction light comes on and the car just runs horribly


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Hate to be the wet blanket, but you can't expect it to run right with those issues. Fix/replace, try it again.:thumbup:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> also when i plug the maf in, it doesnt throw a code for it, but traction light comes on and the car just runs horribly


 Sounds like you need a new MAF.


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## Doooglasss (Aug 28, 2009)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> well im not 100% sure if the primary is bad or its just not getting a correct reading because of the exhaust leak. deff a stupid decision regardless, i cant get the primary 02 in correctly because of the manifold, i would be able to use a spacer would i? that still wouldnt get a correct reading?


 You don't want to use a spacer on the primary 02 I believe.

Take a photo of why you can't get to it?


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

DougLoBue said:


> You don't want to use a spacer on the primary 02 I believe.
> 
> Take a photo of why you can't get to it?


 im using the frankenturbo manifold with stock downpipe which is causing all the problems, so it hits the manifold, and i need to get everything running right to pass inspection before i get downpipe and emissions delete :thumbdown:


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

This won't end well (the part about not using the o2 sensor). Go to an exhaust shop and have them put a bung in the DP that allows you to install the sensor.


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

20v master said:


> This won't end well (the part about not using the o2 sensor). Go to an exhaust shop and have them put a bung in the DP that allows you to install the sensor.


 yeahh, im either going to put the stock manifold back on or pull the downpipe out and make something happen with it


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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> im using the frankenturbo manifold with stock downpipe which is causing all the problems, so it hits the manifold, and i need to get everything running right to pass inspection before i get downpipe and emissions delete :thumbdown:


 what is hitting what? Is the O2 sensor body running afoul of the turbo/manifold somehow?


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> what is hitting what? Is the O2 sensor body running afoul of the turbo/manifold somehow?


 The position of the primary o2 bung on stock downpipe doesnt allow for the oxygen sensor to br put on with the manifold, basically this manifold can not be used eith stock downpipe, idk who would want to do that in the first place besides me to pass inspection, but deff should be known not to run the kit without aftermarket downpipe, but other thenn that frankenturbo kit is amazing :thumbup:


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

oxygen sensor on the manifold 









exhaust leak because stock downpipe doesnt work with manifold


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

so i changed the maf, still have the esp light but car runs the same so i guess the old maf wasnt bad, could the bad primary o2 sensor cause the esp light to come on?


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Did you get the rest of it (leaks) fixed? Have you scanned it?


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

So i replaced the maf, primary o2 sensor, crank sensor, replaced all vacuum lines, fixed the exhaust leaks by putting on the stock manifold, no cel but the car wont boost over 10 lbs, and comes on slowly. Vacuum is at 19 any suggestions of what to check for this situation? :banghead:


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> So i replaced the maf, primary o2 sensor, crank sensor, replaced all vacuum lines, fixed the exhaust leaks by putting on the stock manifold, no cel but the car wont boost over 10 lbs, and comes on slowly. Vacuum is at 19 any suggestions of what to check for this situation? :banghead:


Pressure test the WG. You should be able to pressurize the WG line to 20 psi without any leaks. Are you overboosting at all?


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

warranty225cpe said:


> Pressure test the WG. You should be able to pressurize the WG line to 20 psi without any leaks. Are you overboosting at all?


havent had a chance to do a proper boost leak test, but it vacuums perfect and hold 10 psi til redline perfectly, idkk


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> havent had a chance to do a proper boost leak test, but it vacuums perfect and hold 10 psi til redline perfectly, idkk


Any time you have that much work done, or any time you change the plumbing of your vac lines, you NEED to pressure test. Unless your ok driving wit boost leaks. I've found 3 so far that have made a HUGE difference in the cars performance. Get used to pressure testing often.


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

warranty225cpe said:


> Any time you have that much work done, or any time you change the plumbing of your vac lines, you NEED to pressure test. Unless your ok driving wit boost leaks. I've found 3 so far that have made a HUGE difference in the cars performance. Get used to pressure testing often.


yeahhh, i did all the work nd didnt have a chance to do a pressure test, im going to see if i can do one after work today


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> yeahhh, i did all the work nd didnt have a chance to do a pressure test, im going to see if i can do one after work today


Yeah, the shop that took 2 months to do my build had it for that long but couldn't be bothered to do a pressure test. Pressurizing the system is a way to check your work. When I went to pick up my car at the shop, I took it for a test drive and was border line offended at the **** performance. The difference between an air tight system and leaks is huge. I'm a firm believer that if you own a 1.8T, you should be so familiar with pressure testing that you can do it in your sleep.


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

warranty225cpe said:


> Yeah, the shop that took 2 months to do my build had it for that long but couldn't be bothered to do a pressure test. Pressurizing the system is a way to check your work. When I went to pick up my car at the shop, I took it for a test drive and was border line offended at the **** performance. The difference between an air tight system and leaks is huge. I'm a firm believer that if you own a 1.8T, you should be so familiar with pressure testing that you can do it in your sleep.


oh yeahhh deff i know this, its just i feel like its not a leak the way the boost comes on so slowly and only goes up to 10 psi and holds and i cant lower or raise the boost with my mbc, i willl get it done tho


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

dont start 2 threads because you dont get an answer the first one.

slow boost building is from boost leaks.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Slimjimmn said:


> dont start 2 threads because you dont get an answer the first one.
> 
> slow boost building is from boost leaks.


Or maybe because he's not running any software and bigger injectors and ECU is hitting limp mode? F23 and I don't see any software or bigger injectors listed for Mods :screwy: I just noticed that. :banghead:

And likewise..don't start two threads


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Chickenman35 said:


> Or maybe because he's not running any software and bigger injectors and ECU is hitting limp mode? F23 and I don't see any software or bigger injectors listed for Mods :screwy: I just noticed that. :banghead:
> 
> And likewise..don't start two threads


Edit: Other thread mentioned that now he's only hitting 10 psi... :facepalm:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5736678-fixed-some-problems-now-wont-boost-over-10-psi


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

I started another thread inthe tech forum, where other people see it not only audi tt drivers, and it wouldnt be limp mode because its boosting 10 psi, and i have the n75 not controlling boost


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

EuroSpic_TT said:


> I started another thread inthe tech forum, where other people see it not only audi tt drivers, and it wouldnt be limp mode because its boosting 10 psi, and i have the n75 not controlling boost


I don't think you understood what I was trying to point out. 

The ME7 ECU doesn't *NEED* the N75 working to limit boost.... and to go into Limp Mode. If the ECU reads an over-boost condition..it will at FIRST try to limit boost by using the N75 valve. If that doesn't work then it will open the DV via the N249 valve to dump boost. It will also retard the timing as far as necessary if that doesn't work. Retarding timing lowers boost and turns the car into a slug.

Limp mode may not throw a Cell light depending on what triggers it. Regular scan tools may not show any codes. VAG-COM or VCDS will show if car has been thrown into Limp Mode.

With an F23, you certainly could be in Limp Mode and *still* boost 10 psi. The DV being held open and retarding timing can only do so much.

The Waste gate could also be stuck open. Do check that as well.

So ... bottom line. What software and injectors are you running??


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## EuroSpic_TT (Apr 24, 2012)

Chickenman35 said:


> I don't think you understood what I was trying to point out.
> 
> The ME7 ECU doesn't *NEED* the N75 working to limit boost.... and to go into Limp Mode. If the ECU reads an over-boost condition..it will at FIRST try to limit boost by using the N75 valve. If that doesn't work then it will open the DV via the N249 valve to dump boost. It will also retard the timing as far as necessary if that doesn't work. Retarding timing lowers boost and turns the car into a slug.
> 
> ...



at first i didnt see your other post in the other thread, i had a boost leak and after i fixed the leak i forgot to lower the boost down with the mbc, since i was playing with it before to see why boost was low, so it most deff threw me into limp mode utilizing the n249, now that the boost leak is fixed it spools quickly but just stays at 10 which is due to the limp mode, i will either clear it with vag com or reset the ecu and make sure boost is lowered so i can set it to 12-14psi so it wont throw me into limp mode. im currently on stock software, until all mods are done to go maestro. the whole f23 hit me out of nowhere when 3 days after i bought the car the stock turbo blew. so i replaced it with the f23 and piecing together everything before i tune it, thanks for the help


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