# 21psi tune, but only hitting 15psi... no boost leaks.



## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

So I have been having a few issues with my baby. I have a gonzo stg2 tune at 21psi. My only issue had been fluctuation. It would hit 21 and then bobble between 15 and 20/21. It was obvious surging, not a leak. 
Well about 4 days ago i stopped surging and it just hits 15. I did boost leak test yesterday and cleaned my maf. Reset my ecu in vcds and stiIl only 15psi...

UPDATE:1 
6/15/13

1. I changed my ssqv to my oem dv... no change, actually responded slower for boost onset. going to change back to my ssqv after this.

2. hooked up MBC and tightened it all the way... result was still 15psi but faster onset.

3. hooked my n75 back on and unplugged the wastegate line from n75 in hopes to overboost... result was 15psi

(this is making me think i have an issue with my wastegate opening before request on its own pressue...)

4. HELLLLLLPPPPPPPP


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

sounds like either:
1- wastegate rod nuts loosened up
2-turbo done blowded up


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## Downeywu (Apr 27, 2005)

unplugging the maf would tell you if your maf is going out


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

wastegate nut looks fine. (mirror check, rod looks dirty like it hasnt moved), im positive the turbo isnt shot, but it is old. and i have a tiptronic so unplugging the maf is a bad idea cause it messes with the tranny. but i have another maf, im just going to put it on and see if it helps. its just weird that it hits 15 and stops... i dont even get a spike.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Do you have vag com?

What methods did you use to diagnose intake and exhaust leaks?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

groggory said:


> Do you have vag com?
> 
> What methods did you use to diagnose intake and exhaust leaks?


i do have a vcds, but not to sure how to diagnose the maf. at idle it reads fine. same as the o2. the Maf flows between 2 and 3 grams at idle, and the o2 has all the zeros n ones moving around. never stays on zero.

i used my boost leak tester for my compressor. i run 30psi since the most i will ever see is maybe 23 on a spike. no noises, no random air popping up


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

groggory said:


> Do you have vag com?
> 
> What methods did you use to diagnose intake and exhaust leaks?


 Groggory!!!!! Helllllppp 
So I did logs with VCDS lite the best I could. At 5840(rpm) I am getting 149gs on my MAF and my o2 is reading 14.1 . Injection was around 22 something. 

I put my MBC on and went as tight as I could. still only hit 15, but it felt like i had more kick. maybe my boost guage is messing up? also some pulles I would lose boost... it would taper down as low as 10 psi. but that was 3 pulles out of maybe 11. Most of the time it would hit 15 or 16 and hold at 15. 

I know my o2 is crapping out as on regular load it was reading 0, but under wot it works. I am running rich and getting crappy fuel milage, but will a bad o2 cause low boost?


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## Downeywu (Apr 27, 2005)

140 g's is a little low. should be up around 170ish...that's with a manual, not sure if its the same with an auto 

should be 80% of your HP 

which engine code do you have? they sell front o2's on amazon for 50 bux with free shipping and its a Bosch unit


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

AWP, and I updated the info. look up top. I hit 15psi when my n75 line to wastegate is unplugged, and with a MBC in and cranked as tight as possible... both of these tests should cause me to overboost and either blow my turbo, or go into limp (if I was to keep my foot on the gas and not try to stop...) but all that happened was hitting 15ish (15-16, and sometimes bleeding off, and sometimes holding strong) 

im thinking its a wastegate, wastegate actuator, or turbo crapping out... but now i dont know what to test next to see if its my wastegate or actuator.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

pix of how n75 installed


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Slimjimmn said:


> pix of how n75 installed


 Why does everyone assume the n75 is hooked up wrong. This was happening before i tested with my mbc, AND was working since I was tuned, this is a pretty new issue. Also I have played with my n75 and mbc many times when i used to have the diode mod. I am not a noob, just not sure of what to do NEXT in my attempts to find and correct this issue... 

IF anyone needs a pic, please txt the number in my sig, and i will be MORE then happy to send any pics that you may need to help diagnose this issue.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

if you have taptalk on your phone you can load pix through there. 

Also if the N75 is hooked up properly with NO MBC installed and it is unplugged the boost should be 5psi. If its not 5psi then either the hose from n75-wastegate is cracked bad, the wastegate diaphragm is broken, or the wastegate is cranked way far down. 

FYI the adjusting nuts should be about 1/2"-3/4" from the end of the rod on passenger side for factory setting. I think its like 15 threads?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

no the n75 is plugged in, but the line to the wategate was unhooked. that means the n75 can not supply any pressure to the line in turn opening the wastegate. IF i was to unplug the n75 electricaly they it would limp to 5psi. 
i think i will install taptalk. this may help... lol


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Ya if you hook up the n75 like it is from the factory all lines connected and such and just unplug the n75 it should boost 5psi. If it does that means the wastegate an hoses are ok and wastegate rod is adjusted properly.


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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Dos threads ?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Slimjimmn said:


> FYI the adjusting nuts should be about 1/2"-3/4" from the end of the rod on passenger side for factory setting. I think its like 15 threads?


 Im downloading taptalk now, but i adjusted the nuts in maybe 4 complete turns, and added a helper spring but it didnt really help much. Now it holds at 17 or 18psi, but half the time it drops off to 10. 
ALSO originaly it was about an 1 1/4 in. Now I think its about 1 3/4- 2 inches in... well i assume. i will go measure it and take pics in a few 

A


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I'm not 100% sure on the length just guesstimating. Doug at frankenturbo would know better then me. 
Also have you replaced the turbo to manifold gasket and bolts yet?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Naw. Haven't taken the turbo off ever. Had a downpipe put on last almost 2 years ago... that's bout it.

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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

I was wrong. It is now about an inch in, before about 3/4. Its about half way now. I will have to think its my o2 sensor, topping out and not allowing me to hit requested boost... once I get a new o2 I will uncrank my waste gate and see.

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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Looks good. Any improvement ?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Rod Ratio said:


> Looks good. Any improvement ?


 A lil. Hitting 17 or 18 but it doesn't hold. If I go WOT it will still hit 16 and then lower to 10. If I take my foot off the gas and hammer it again it will hit 18 and lower to 15, or slowly hit 10 again.

I am starting to think the o2 is the issue. I mean I know it can mess with the system. But everyone says it won't affect my boost, but what else can it be. I'm not hitting requested boost so the waste gate doesn't dump. It just hits this wall at about 15psi. No leaks, ecu only throws codes for lambada too slow, cooling is fine, burns some oil through exhaust valves... everything else is good. Turbo is getting old, but still works. Oil is from exhaust valves cause only burns on idle or after getting off heavy throttle. No smoking while driving. 

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## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Was just talking to Gonz about it, and he thinks it's a fueling issue


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Yeah, I was thinking maybe it was my boost gauge but then I would over boost now that I cranked the gate a lil... I'm buying a upstream o2 here in about 30 min. Have no idea how im going to get it on... too low to ramp my car and don't have proper jack and stands for Vw. (The annoying lack of points... bla). 

I actually put in a ticket with gonzo about MBC before I tested... lol. Gonzo is a big help and his tune is awesome. Because of his solid work it makes it easier for me to isolate issues... unlike *other* tuners. 

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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Rod Ratio said:


> Was just talking to Gonz about it


 U sure about that heh
Also yes a bad o2 sensor will throw a/f ratios off. Anytime you get an o2 sensor code the sensor is bad (or wiring to it in rare cases)


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

I know it will throw a/f off... but will throwing a/f off not let me hit peak boost? I was under the assumption that I would lean out and get a code, or limp and get a code, or something other then just an o2 code. I mean by all rationality using a MBC should have let me up the boost and then the map should have put me into limp.... but the turbo just stops at 15psi. Obviously request is still calling cause it didn't limp out.

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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

The o2 sensor is the main sensor that tells the computer what a/f ratio it needs (along with maf, but mainly a/f). That being said, the a/f sensor does not physically adjust boost like the n75 does, but if the computer sees the engine leaning out it will pull boost and timing to save your engine. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-Oxy...Parts_Accessories&hash=item485692fc1f&vxp=mtr 

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Yeah after all the wondering, gonzo hit it on the head. I forgot about the map sensor... he said it sounds like my TB is slamming shut cause of a lean condition. Sounds like my map sensor said 15 is high enough on the map... lets kill it here. Lol. I got a new o2, just have to wait cause i have no way of getting under there... im too low and dont have good jackstands. 

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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

~Enigma~ said:


> Ye im too low and dont have good jackstands.


 These things are pretty awesome and give you a great jacking point. First mod I've done to all my recent VWs.


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## Downeywu (Apr 27, 2005)

i purchased a low pro jack from harbor freight for $70. Works great and i have had it for a few years now. Just becareful going in that store, possibility you may buy more stuff than you really need haha


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Fml. So i changed the o2, and my spark plugs just for the hell of it... and no change... still only hitting 15. 
Should i clear the ecu? I am going to do that and change my maf (have a replacement, but was waiting for the maf to 100% die)
Anything else i should check?

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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Log,
Log,
Log!

Check the requested vs actual AFR,
Knock,
Boost requested vs actual
Etc.

Get some logs going, post em up.

We need data!!!


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

I am running vcds lite... and i used to have a unautherized version so i couldnt put my info up on here anyways, but now i am limited on logging.

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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Then can you get another set of eyes to look at it and see if the values are in check.


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

I can log, but only 001 through 025. I need 30, 31, 115 (I think), and something else... can't remember. And I can't get my *other* version of CDs to work so I'm Sol at the moment unless someone has an idea I didn't think of.


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## SledHeavy (Jun 24, 2009)

I'm encountering a similar issue. Buddy and I both bought unitronic stage 1 around the same time. He was hitting near 21 and sitting at 19, I at 19 and 17. I replaced hoses, checked valves and even had shop friends double check with every upgrade. Weirder still, at a 4th gear pull the gauge indicates I'm hitting 22. Vehicle has less than 80k for what it's worth.

I've been hoping that going to the F23 with the MBC would adjust this issue, but I need to do more homework. Hope you find a resolve.


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

What 3 blocks you want me to check. 115, and what?

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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

So I'm stumped. I cranked the waste gate and have 2 helper springs on and I only see 17 psi, holding strong at 15 now... so I assume my issues is either a bad actuator or fueling closing my throttle body.
If its fueling what should I look at as the culprits, to test, and what blocks in vcds should I monitor? 

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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Group A:'002Group B:'031Group C:'032
Idle speed Engine load Inj. period Air mass in Lambda Factor Lambda Factor Idle O2 Adapt Run O2 Adapt
700-820 rpm15-25% 2.0 - 4.0 ms2.0-4.5 g/s -10.1-10.1
*3.23 3600 179.72 3.12 118.19 0.99 21 5.8 0.8
*4.54 4280 184.22 5.84 149.33 0.828 0.828 5.8 0.8
*5.95 5080 167.72 3.12 161.64 0.782 0.813 5.8 0.8
*7.36 5680 149.62 0.06 163.33 0.797 0.805 5.8 0.8
*8.65 6160 141.41 8.7 164.92 0.782 0.805 5.8 0.8


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Ttt

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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

what is your boost onset like? If you go WOT in 3rd gear, at what engine speed does it reach peak boost?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Prob between 3200 and 4500 rpm. It gets up to 15 no problem. Used to hit 21 and bobble between 15 and 21. Now it just hits 15 to 17ish and holds at 15 (after the waste gate springs and cranking... but it seems to be limited by the tb... I think... or its just blowing open) idk... this is very frustrating. 

And that copy past and slight edit is from a 3rd gear pull

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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

Sooooo, today on the way to work I hit 21lbs then an immediate drop to 15, then a few more trys and it would bobble from 15 to 21... like my original issue... on the way home from work, I would hit 21, drop to 15 then bobble from 15 to 18ish. Today is much cooler... only low 80s. 

Could my issue be fuel AND heat? 91 octane gas with ethanol, and 95 to 105 degree days with high humidity?

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## [email protected] (Jul 1, 2009)

Block 003 will tell you if the ECU is cutting either timing or throttle. Block 118 will tell you if it's cutting boost.


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

OK, i will do a pull here as soon as my laptop boots up and is ready. I will post up what I get the best I can.

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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Block 003 will tell you if the ECU is cutting either timing or throttle. Block 118 will tell you if it's cutting boost.


this file is too big for me to cut paste and edit it so its readable without me messing it up. I can send the csv file if you want. i did 2 pulls... block 003, 115, and 118. Send me an email link.


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## Gti_logic (May 31, 2013)

Did you find out your issue ugh im having the same annoying problem, no boost leak and ****ting out at 15psi gonzo stage 2 awp engine code. Im hitting 15psi then tapering right down to 10. It used to hit 21-25 psi and pull real nice...im not that lucky any more  if you figure it out maybe you could send me a pm. If its worth anything, I changed my n75 my dv plugs and boost leak test, also I am getting some burning oil at idle.


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## [email protected] Performance (Jul 20, 2011)

Please post or email/PM me logs if you need help. Nobody can help you adequately without logs.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Check for exhaust leaks PRE-Turbo. Make sure that all the exhaust manifold to head nuts are tight and that the exhaust manifold to Turbo nuts are tight. It is possible to burn out exhaust gaskets if the bolts or nuts get too loose.

You can Seafoam while running the car and watch for smoke coming from flange areas. Any leaks on the exhaust side Pre- Turbo will drastically affect boost, particularly on the high end.

The KKK series have a big exhaust restriction due to the choke point at the incredibly small turbine inlet. They build huge exhaust back pressure at high rpm and boost levels. Exhaust leaks may not be noticeable at idle, but can become significant at high rpm's

On my DD I with an APR Stage 1 tune, I was only seeing about 15-16 lbs max with taper to 9 lbs ( AEB ECU ) Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket and turbine flange gaskets gave my old K03 new life. No noticeable leak at idle with just a casual glance, but manifold nuts were loose.

After replacing Pre-Turbo exhaust gaskets and tightening things up, it spikes to 21 psi and holds 15 - 16 at 6,000 rpm ( N75 control ). 233,000 km on turbo and original motor :thumbup:


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## SweetRide (Jan 7, 2004)

I am curious on how you did your boost leak test? Did you block off at the throttle body? If so you never tested the intake, which has quite a few vacuum lines under it. This was my exact problem and it was one of the those vacuum lines under the intake which typically don't get tested with a boost pressure test. I think you have a vacuum leak, my front 02 sensor just went bad and it is not pulling boost from me, I am just losing MPG's. I would also highly recommend to take that stuff off your wastegate and adjust it back to factory before you mess something up even worse than before. Just my 2 cents!


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Gti_logic said:


> Did you find out your issue ugh im having the same annoying problem, no boost leak and ****ting out at 15psi gonzo stage 2 awp engine code. Im hitting 15psi then tapering right down to 10. It used to hit 21-25 psi and pull real nice...im not that lucky any more  if you figure it out maybe you could send me a pm. If its worth anything, I changed my n75 my dv plugs and boost leak test, also I am getting some burning oil at idle.


How did you do your boost leak test and how did you do your exhaust leak test?


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Please post or email/PM me logs if you need help. Nobody can help you adequately without logs.


Send me your email. Ill send you my saved log. I still have no luck. Seems to be a little better on cool mornings. But nowhere close to the first week after tuning.

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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

And I tested with a boost leak tester and did not block the tb... was wondering why anyone would... and I did NOT do a exhaust leak test. But I dont have symptoms of exhaust leak. I hav3 symptoms of tb slaping shut.

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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

~Enigma~ said:


> Sooooo, today on the way to work I hit 21lbs then an immediate drop to 15, then a few more trys and it would bobble from 15 to 21... like my original issue... on the way home from work, I would hit 21, drop to 15 then bobble from 15 to 18ish. Today is much cooler... only low 80s.
> 
> Could my issue be fuel AND heat? 91 octane gas with ethanol, and 95 to 105 degree days with high humidity?
> 
> Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Certainly could. Can you get any 93+ Octane for testing or throw in a can of good Octane Booster? 20+ psi is a bit much for 91 Octane, even with Ethanol.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

~Enigma~ said:


> And I tested with a boost leak tester and did not block the tb... was wondering why anyone would... and I did NOT do a exhaust leak test. But I dont have symptoms of exhaust leak. I hav3 symptoms of tb slaping shut.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4


This from another similar thread:



Droppedjetta12 said:


> Dude all mine were tight too until I took my turbo off and what do you know half my gasket blew out.
> You don't notice leak because at idle and normal driving it was sealed okay but wot it would leak causing me only 15 psi 10 sometimes 8-9 at redline. New turbo to mani gasket my car is perfect now.


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## KTMTim (May 16, 2011)

Did you ever figure this out?

My car is the same thing. 15psi with a unitronic stage 2+ and a k04-001. 

I don't know if I ever had the 20 psi I should. I also have no boost leaks, I also clamped the waste gate line and still only 15 psi. I also clamped thr hose going to the diverter valve to make sure it wasn't leaking by. 

I'm starting to thing turbo to manifold, or manifold to head leak.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

KTMTim said:


> Did you ever figure this out?
> 
> My car is the same thing. 15psi with a unitronic stage 2+ and a k04-001.
> 
> ...


seafoam exhaust leak test + the rag in tailpipe trick will tell you about all those leaks right quick


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

No neever figured it out plus no exhaust leaks. Raggged the tail oipes when the car was on a rack. All I know is the tb is closing but fuel air and request is there.

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## KTMTim (May 16, 2011)

groggory said:


> seafoam exhaust leak test + the rag in tailpipe trick will tell you about all those leaks right quick



I have used seafoam on chevy v8s before but never on a vw. So i just follow the instructions on the can? Get the car warm, pull a vaccuum line and dump some in? Then rag the tail pipe to create back pressure?


I lost a turbo bolt in the past and there was a exhaust leak at the turbo, i could clearly hear that when i was building boost. My car sounds completely normal.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

KTMTim said:


> I have used seafoam on chevy v8s before but never on a vw. So i just follow the instructions on the can? Get the car warm, pull a vaccuum line and dump some in? Then rag the tail pipe to create back pressure?
> 
> 
> I lost a turbo bolt in the past and there was a exhaust leak at the turbo, i could clearly hear that when i was building boost. My car sounds completely normal.


Pretty much yes.

Look in the FAQ. There is a good DIY for it in there.


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## KTMTim (May 16, 2011)

I'm 90% sure my manifold gasket is bad after doing the seafoam test. I had smoke coming from the area where it meets the head, but I also had smoke from under the car following the downpipe up, into the engine bay. 

I am going to do the seafoam test again on a lift and get a good look at it. 

I rebuilt the engine and transmission when I bought the car. I torqued the manifold and the turbo to oem specs. But I did have a turbo bolt loosen and fall out, so I guess the manifold could have loosened also.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

KTMTim said:


> I'm 90% sure my manifold gasket is bad after doing the seafoam test. I had smoke coming from the area where it meets the head, but I also had smoke from under the car following the downpipe up, into the engine bay.
> 
> I am going to do the seafoam test again on a lift and get a good look at it.
> 
> I rebuilt the engine and transmission when I bought the car. I torqued the manifold and the turbo to oem specs. But I did have a turbo bolt loosen and fall out, so I guess the manifold could have loosened also.


Probably toasted the gasket when the turbo bolt loosened and fell out.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

w00t!!!!

Another win for intake pressure test + exhaust leak test!


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## KTMTim (May 16, 2011)

groggory said:


> w00t!!!!
> 
> Another win for intake pressure test + exhaust leak test!



Its the only thing i think it could be. I had a snap on scan tool connected and it was saying 100% throttle so i dont think the computer is holding it back.

I should have said that previously when i lost my turbo bolt, i did replace the gasket and new bolts. But i have not touched the manifold to the head since i rebuilt the engine two years ago.

I only installed the boost gauge 6 months ago and found out i was only getting 15 psi. 

Is there any other gaskets besides the oem gasket for the manifold and turbo? Maybe a copper one?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

The oem is perfectly fine


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

The oem is perfectly fine


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

groggory said:


> The oem is perfectly fine


This

OEM is best, really. :beer:


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## KTMTim (May 16, 2011)

Ok thanks guys. I usually always use oem gaskets and engine parts. Any idea if I will be able to sneak out the manifold without completely removing the turbo? I rember that all those lines are a bit when the engine is installed.


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## Poody (Jun 13, 2011)

Log a pull and calculate your maximum injector duty cycle (RPM*Injector Pulse Width/1200). If that number comes out at or above 100 then you found your problem. If your car wont let you boost past 15psi with no wastegate pressure line, its either a leak or the DBW throttlebody is closing itself. This can happen if you have maxed out your fuel injectors, happened to me and I had the same symptoms as you.


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## KTMTim (May 16, 2011)

I did some highway pulls and calculated my injector duty cycle. The highest I got was 69. These are the blue tt225 injectors so I was not expecting them to be a problem with only a k04-001. I will be doing the manifold gasket ASAP as well as a bunch of other repairs.


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## americanidolako (Sep 6, 2013)

*FIX???*



~Enigma~ said:


> I know it will throw a/f off... but will throwing a/f off not let me hit peak boost? I was under the assumption that I would lean out and get a code, or limp and get a code, or something other then just an o2 code. I mean by all rationality using a MBC should have let me up the boost and then the map should have put me into limp.... but the turbo just stops at 15psi. Obviously request is still calling cause it didn't limp out.
> 
> Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk 4 Beta




You guys have a fix for this? im having same issue. i was on stage 2+ tune and i was hitting 21 psi when Gonzo did a tune for my gtt its hitting only 15 psi .. i know this is old but i need a fix for this  i wish i did not upgraded my tune. its like downgrade


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## ~Enigma~ (Jul 8, 2009)

I had multiple issues. But the main bug was I had a leak AFTER the brake booster. So when i did a boost leak test it was never detected. The brake booster was closed when the car is off and when the engine was not under load. When the engine was under load the booster would activate and the leak allowed the boost to crap out.
Also i had a messed up MAP sensor and my pcv was faulty. Did a pcv delete and reroute, replaced my MAP sensor and replaced the hose going from the brake booster (its a hard vinyl line).


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## CD155MX (Dec 18, 2007)

~Enigma~ said:


> I had multiple issues. But the main bug was I had a leak AFTER the brake booster. So when i did a boost leak test it was never detected. The brake booster was closed when the car is off and when the engine was not under load. When the engine was under load the booster would activate and the leak allowed the boost to crap out.
> Also i had a messed up MAP sensor and my pcv was faulty. Did a pcv delete and reroute, replaced my MAP sensor and replaced the hose going from the brake booster (its a hard vinyl line).


Good info. Thanks for the update.


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## CD155MX (Dec 18, 2007)

Hey Enigma, 

How did you diagnose that hard vinyl line as being one of your issues?


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## Sirocco20348 (Jan 16, 2011)

~Enigma~ said:


> I had multiple issues. But the main bug was I had a leak AFTER the brake booster. So when i did a boost leak test it was never detected. The brake booster was closed when the car is off and when the engine was not under load. When the engine was under load the booster would activate and the leak allowed the boost to crap out.
> Also i had a messed up MAP sensor and my pcv was faulty. Did a pcv delete and reroute, replaced my MAP sensor and replaced the hose going from the brake booster (its a hard vinyl line).


What part of the brake booster line had failed for you? 

I'm assuming you had splits in the line?




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