# Paint and Body Work FAQ [MK4 Based]...



## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Paint and Body Work FAQ...*

Seems like people are misconstruing information on here constantly... Just wanted to clear a few things up. People experienced in body work can chime in, and please do! Post up your questions about body work in here and either me or some people who are experienced in this can help you








Body Work
Common Supplies/Equipment Needed:
36 grit sandpaper
80 grit sandpaper
180 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
320 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
800 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
Die Grinder
Welder (TIG)
Body Filler (for metal): Evercoat Rage or Z-Grip
Body Filler (for plastics): Evercoat Polyflex
Plastic Adhesive/Repair: Fusor 143 or 3M Flex or Rigid Plastic Repair
Sanding block
Wet sanding block (Durablock is popular)
And remember guys: *Body work is not cheap, if you complain about how expensive it can get, and you cheap out with incorrect supplies/prep you will have a ishty end result. You gotta pay to play*
Q: How do you shave fenders/hoods/hatches/trunks (virtually the same process, only little details are different ie: sizes, shapes, etc) and what products do you need to use?
A: Well, I'm not going to tell you every single step how to do it but the jist is:
1. Die grind area that you will be working on (~6" in every direction around the area needs to be grinded down)
2. Weld in metal filler panel
3. Die grind the welds smooth
4. Apply first coat of filler
5. Use 80 grit for your first 1-3 layers of filler. Then after you keep filling move up to 180 grit. 180 should be used on the last few layers (total # of layers will be dependant on how well you block your first few. most times is about 5-8 layers total) wet or dry sanding is used at your discretion with 180.
6. Last layer of filler should be sanded with 320 wet 
7. Primer is then applied to the 320'd area (Do NOT use anything other than 320 to apply primer)
8. Wet sand the primer with 800 grit and a wetsand block.
9. Depending on the actual paint, either 600 or 800 is ideal when you wet sand the primer. I would personally use 800, regardless of type of paint. Do NOT go over 800, or else paint will not adhere to the panel
10. Now your panel is ready for paint. If you just need instructions on how to prep for paint, start from step 6 instead of 1. and start wetsanding with 320 wet. If your panel was prepainted and cleared, you need to sand down to original panel with 320, then reprimer.
Q: How do you shave/fill plastic?
A: Plastics are MUCH harder to shave/fill and will require a bit more patience. Basically the same jist as metal, but instead you sand down with 36 grit (not a die grinder, most people will start melting plastic and owning their panels with die grinders). Then you pretty much need to find some spare plastic to fill the space you're trying to shave/fill and adhere it with the Fusor *Please be careful with this stuff, it has a work time of under 2 minutes*. *SPECIFIC* instructions will NOT be provided in this post. Maybe if i feel like it later I will or if someone else who knows what their doing can post up. After you adhere the plastic, do 80 grit and apply the polyflex (which is the plastic filler). Same steps as the metal work, just different supplies.
*Also, do NOT use body filler to literally fill holes. It is to smooth things out, not literally fill sidemarker holes, trunk emblem holes, etc*
Body Fillers:
*PLEASE DO NOT USE BONDO, IT IS HONESTLY THE WORST BODY 
FILLER YOU CAN USE, FOR CRYIN OUT LOUD YOU CAN BUY IT AT AUTOZONE!*
If you do not have a local body supply warehouse, use: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/
Use proffesional body filler from Evercoat. There are alot of different levels available from Evercoat. Popular ones that most body shops use is the Rage line, and Z-Grip. I personally use Z-Grip which was about $50 a gallon. 
Evercoat product site: 
http://www.evercoat.com/products.aspx
Evercoat Z-Grip:
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=11
Fusor:
http://www.lord.com/Home/Produ....aspx
Hope this clears up and misconceptions....




























_Modified by lolagain at 10:40 PM 11-4-2007_


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## Smoky_Llama (Nov 22, 2005)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

nice dude.


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## ddgolf4 (Jul 18, 2005)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (Smoky_Llama)*

evercoat rage is great i use this product on my car http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 03_uni-B (Sep 6, 2005)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (ddgolf4)*

nice.much better than some of your earlier posts


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## formerly vr6 karl (Jan 26, 2003)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (02jettakid17)*

i dont care what you say about bondo.....ive used it quite a few times (only for skim layers and its held up great)


_Modified by formerly vr6 karl at 6:26 PM 11-4-2007_


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (formerly vr6 karl)*


_Quote, originally posted by *formerly vr6 karl* »_i dont care what you say about bondo.....ive used it quite a few times (only for skim layers and its held up great)

_Modified by formerly vr6 karl at 6:26 PM 11-4-2007_

filling body panels is not wise to use bondo, even with very thin layers. it is known to crack and does not like weather changes


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## formerly vr6 karl (Jan 26, 2003)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

cali weather http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## butterface (Dec 16, 2002)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (formerly vr6 karl)*


_Quote, originally posted by *formerly vr6 karl* »_cali weather http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









bah! texas is 90 one day and 60 the next day


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## ericjohnston27 (Dec 31, 2005)

greta write up, this will come in handy very soon. thanks cal!


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## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

Good post. A question: In certain spots, namely the area past the 6" you die grind out, you will actually have two layers of paint - the normal body color+clear, and the new paint+clear you used to paint the shaved area. Does the clear even out the transition, or do you feather the color in around the affected areas?
Mike


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_Good post. A question: In certain spots, namely the area past the 6" you die grind out, you will actually have two layers of paint - the normal body color+clear, and the new paint+clear you used to paint the shaved area. Does the clear even out the transition, or do you feather the color in around the affected areas?
Mike

when painting (blending) you will need to reclear the WHOLE panel. if its prepped right, you will notice no difference after painting. the painter blends in that area that is primered to the old paint and shoots the paint pretty evenly.


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## FaelinGL (Nov 28, 2004)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lolagain* »_
when painting (blending) you will need to reclear the WHOLE panel. if its prepped right, you will notice no difference after painting. the painter blends in that area that is primered to the old paint and shoots the paint pretty evenly.

Thanks for the quick answer. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Does the painter block down the clear in the unaffected areas, or is that not required for the new clear to hold?
Mike


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (FaelinGL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FaelinGL* »_
Thanks for the quick answer. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Does the painter block down the clear in the unaffected areas, or is that not required for the new clear to hold?
Mike

yessir http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
the painter will wetsand with most likely 800 until he hits sands off all the clear and maybe even more to feather edge the primer into the paint then then repaints/blends and clears as he would a normal panel http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## JETTA420 (Sep 29, 2001)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (FaelinGL)*

great thread! just a few quesions you guys could maybe answer for me about a few tools one might need for shaving, molding, and stuff like that.
personally, im looking into a few tools to do some projects, such as a dremel, heat gun, polisher/sander.
as for the dremel, im thinking the Variable speed MultiPro. what attachments would one need for cutting bumpers, polishing wheels, and sanding body components like mentioned before.
and a heat gun, to shape plastic, and what not. theyre not expensive, any recommendations on one? ive also been recommended a soldering iron for plastic welding, which could come in handy.
and the sander, could the 7446 Porter Cable random-orbit polisher be doubled up as a polisher for paint, and a sander for body components and polishing wheels and such? if not, are theyre any multipurpose polishers on the market that offer this?


_Modified by JETTA420 at 9:29 PM 11-4-2007_


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (JETTA420)*


_Quote, originally posted by *JETTA420* »_great thread! just a few quesions you guys could maybe answer for me about a few tools one might need for shaving, molding, and stuff like that.
personally, im looking into a few tools to do some projects, such as a dremel, heat gun, polisher/sander.
as for the dremel, im thinking the Variable speed MultiPro.http://www.dremel.com/en-us/to...69724. what attachments would one need for cutting bumpers, polishing wheels, and sanding body components like mentioned before.
and a heat gun, to shape plastic, and what not. theyre not expensive, any recommendations on one? ive also been recommended a soldering iron for plastic welding, which could come in handy.
and the sander, could the 7446 Porter Cable random-orbit polisher be doubled up as a polisher for paint, and a sander for body components and polishing wheels and such? if not, are theyre any multipurpose polishers on the market that offer this?

to be honest, hand sanding panels will be the best overall end result. sure, its alot slower and tedious, but thats what body work really is. taking your time and doing it slowly/correctly is best for the end result. unless if you have a HUGE flat panel like a quater panel, then you could use air powered sanders. for cutting bumpers, you will need die grinders. dremels will work but be very very slow. heat guns are great to shape plastic, like you said


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## 02vw1.8turbo (May 27, 2005)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

great post http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 







for more info for when i get to doing some bodywork


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## bluefox280 (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (02vw1.8turbo)*

Added to MK4 DIY Listing for long, long time of referencing!
- Erik http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (bluefox280)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bluefox280* »_Added to MK4 DIY Listing for long, long time of referencing!
- Erik http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


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## CTdubin (Jul 20, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (formerly vr6 karl)*

thats the only good thing about cali is the weather


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## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

Isn't wetsanding body filler asking for trouble? Filler absorbs moisture (well not like a towel) and that can get ugly in some cases.
I usually sand filler to 180 dry then prime. Sand primer with 400 dry then 800 wet.
Also, when sanding the primer, it's important to smooth the edge of the primered area so that you can't feel any step from the primer to the base. Lay your hand flat on the panel and litterally stroke the panel (fast, if you do it slowly you won't feel anything). If you feel a step, continue sanding.


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## lolagain (Oct 12, 2007)

*Re: (Black Smokin' Diesel)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Black Smokin’ Diesel* »_Isn't wetsanding body filler asking for trouble? Filler absorbs moisture (well not like a towel) and that can get ugly in some cases.


i have never EVER heard that wesanding filler is bad. whered you hear that


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## Burnitwithfire (May 14, 2005)

*Re: (lolagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lolagain* »_
i have never EVER heard that wesanding filler is bad. whered you hear that

I'm studying in autobody. Teachers told me body filler should never get wet before priming. If the filler isn't 100% dry when priming it can show up later after the car has been painted. Maybe some products can be wetsanded, I don't know about all of them.


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## AKDiVo (Aug 1, 2007)

someone should probably sticky this one


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## Kubelwagen17 (Oct 31, 2007)

*Re: (AKDiVo)*

ok i have a question: if im painting my b-pillar black, how do i combine the new paint with the factory paint on the edge??
for reference, the circled part:


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## spitfire481 (Mar 21, 2007)

your gonna have a hard line there unless you reclear the doors when you do the pillar.


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## DuBLiFeh2o (Sep 23, 2001)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*


_Quote, originally posted by *lolagain* »_Seems like people are misconstruing information on here constantly... Just wanted to clear a few things up. 

so, why did you create another thread with misconstrued information


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (DuBLiFeh2o)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DuBLiFeh2o* »_
so, why did you create another thread with misconstrued information


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## supavr6lover (May 7, 2004)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (ddgolf4)*

i want to know about fusor and filling in the license plate holes.. makes me madd that i just started my search and im ending up with no DIY..haha


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## cadwiz (Oct 6, 2006)

i would not wet sand fillers.....as stated above they soak up moisture.
and so does primer for that matter.........


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (supavr6lover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *supavr6lover* »_ i want to know about fusor and filling in the license plate holes.. makes me madd that i just started my search and im ending up with no DIY..haha

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2850821
compliments of myself.


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## cloud9vw20 (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

There is a lot of bad info on the vortex, but a lot of good too. lolagain is very correct with most and this is a good thread for DIY.I gotta say filler WILL absorb moisture no question about it. You wont really know about it until much later when you see the effects in the paint.
Bondo is not a very good product at all and I would only use it on an unimportant project like a dump truck or tractor...maybe. I love Evercoat products, they are easy to use and sand very well.
Most of this thread is onpoint though. You guys have some big jumps between sanding grits and that all depends on the finish you want. I typically use:
filler-36 or 40grit (jump to 80 if spread smooth)
80 grit
150 grit
primer-150 grit (jump to 320 if layed smooth)
320 grit
400 grit ( why, right? It makes sense to jump to 600 here, but getting the 320 scratches out with 600 is a b**** and most people would stop sanding before actually getting any defects out. I say make it easy on yourself use the 400 with a quick sanding)
600 grit
800 grit (stopping at 600 versus 800 is fairly based on painting skills and mix and type of basecoat about to be sprayed on top of the primer)
I very rarely finish filler in 320 because high fill primer is great with 150 but on occasion i do use it.
Any defects in smoothness should really be worked out when done with sanding primer. Basecoat and clear are not designed to do any filling and/or smoothing of any kind. It sounds like some folks are trying to get rid of hardlines with clearcoat, all I have ever seen this do is create a slightly rounded hardline.
I dont feel like spending all kinds of time typing all kinds of info out but I am willing to help when someone needs it. I am far from knowing everything about body/paint work but I am fairly knowledgable in the subject.
Here is some of the stuff that was built where I learned and am still learning on my way to my Custom Cars and Concepts Degree. Its too bad they dont have finished pics of the Ford 500 GT-R up, it was finished about 2 years ago, siiick car. There is a Chevelle that was built for GM and was on the show "Rides". They are very domestic oriented







but I apply it to my dub.
http://www.wccnet.edu/departme...s.php
the Chevelle: http://www.motortrend.com/auto....html
the Magnum:
http://autos.msn.com/as/minish...A2004
07 SEMA entry (make-a-wish truck): http://www.pickuptruck.com/htm....html
I have other stuff that was built more recently that I took pics of that I need to upload. They have had SEMA entrys for at least 4 years now and compete alongside Foose and Boyd here at Autorama in Detroit. Great School, we build some cool stuff.
Glad to help anyone, have fun cutting and filling http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 16v po boy (Oct 27, 2001)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (cloud9vw20)*

. Use 80 grit for your first 1-3 layers of filler. Then after you keep filling move up to 180 grit. 180 should be used on the last few layers (total # of layers will be dependant on how well you block your first few. most times is about 5-8 layers total) wet or dry sanding is used at your discretion with 180.















5-8 layers if you are filling the grand canyon. 
unless you warp the hell out of a panel any shave work can be finished in 3 filler coats. usually one + glaze. 36-80-120 then i buzz with 320 -prime.


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## Kubelwagen17 (Oct 31, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (16v po boy)*

is it possible to shave the vw emblem in the back with just filler?? Ive heard it cracks, then i've also heard that its fine, what is the final verdict on this. I cannot afford to have a body shop do it, so i try and do as much as i can myself. I can do all the prep work/painting myself, im just not rlly good at welding nor do i actually have welding equipment. ALL help is welcome http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

-Amr


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## cloud9vw20 (Apr 8, 2006)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (vee_dubbin2191)*

I wouldnt put all filler in the emblem recess. Its about 1/4 inch deep which is well over all (i think) manufacturers recommended depth. If you dont feel like welding I would see if you cant get to it from inside after detrimming the hatch. If you can swing a hammer in there I would see if you can hammer it out a little at least to where the maximum depth of filler is going to be no more than 1/8". MAKE SURE you use some kinda dolly (hard block with flat surface) when hammering on the other side so you dont create a crown (basically a dent out in the other direction). Also dont over hammer, take youre time, youll be happier in the end, good luck!


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## Derek Zoolander (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (supavr6lover)*


_Quote, originally posted by *supavr6lover* »_ i want to know about fusor and filling in the license plate holes.. makes me madd that i just started my search and im ending up with no DIY..haha

Filling plate holes and shaving sidemarkers is easy.
Sand area around the holes down to the plastic. Clean with rubbing alcohol, or soap/water. Let air dry. Apply Fusor 602EZ Surface Modifier. Wait 15-20min to air dry. Cut out "coupons" in the general shape of the hole (rather too big than too small so you can trim smaller). Scuff plastic filler pieces and spray them with 602. Tack or hold in place while applying Fusor 143/153. ~90 seconds work time with 143. Sand down with 80 grit. Reapply Fusor if needed. Apply to reverse side. Skim over with Evercoat Polyflex. Sand to 320 featheredge. Prime. Paint.
When I shaved my sidemarkers, I left the stock orange pieces in place. I sanded and prepped them well, then Fusored them in place front and back. Sand, fill over, sand, prime, paint.
PM me with any questions. I've done it a couple times.



























_Modified by Derek Zoolander at 1:43 PM 12-31-2007_


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## Derek Zoolander (Jun 25, 2006)

Royale5 was very helpful to me when I started learning to work with plastics.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2305112


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## poindxta (Jul 6, 2004)

i just got a hood notch filler piece...do you think i can use the fusor method to attach the notch filler or will i have to weld it in?


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## Derek Zoolander (Jun 25, 2006)

*Re: (poindxta)*

Weld a metal hood notch in. Plastic to metal doesn't work well.


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## DarkSideGTI (Aug 11, 2001)

*Re: (Derek Zoolander)*

I was wondering if you could use the plastic bumper notch fill pieces that come with most badgeless grilles. Basically put some fusor on the back side of it and "glue" it in place then apply fusor to the borders of it to attach it to the bumper. Would that work?
As far as the bumper I was going to apply some mesh behind the side marker opening then put a "coupon" in the opening and fusor it together. seems like the best way.(R32 bumper by the way).


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## nick526 (Sep 29, 2006)

*Re: (DarkSideGTI)*

bump, same question^^


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## gt[I] (Nov 12, 2005)

*Re: (nick526)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nick526* »_bump, same question^^


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## tnewsomj (Mar 26, 2008)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (cloud9vw20)*

yes you never want to wet sand body filler because it does soak up moisture and slightly expand also it is best not to wet sand your primer unless its etching primer and i never use anything but that
i know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons







lol


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## BoostedTinCan (May 22, 2005)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (cloud9vw20)*

I agree , too much bondo will sink over time and you will see the indend of the emblem, just weld something in, the best way to do it


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## dallas04gli (Jun 25, 2007)

good information.


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## victor_89 (Oct 29, 2008)

*Urgent Body Work*

Hey, I need some help trying to figure out how to fix a scratch on my jetta. I scratched it againest a wall and it took off some of the paint. Here is a photo of the scratch.








I was wondering if anyone could tell me some solutions to get it back to the shiny silver arrow paint it was before, thanks for the help!


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## orzel541 (May 10, 2009)

*Re: Urgent Body Work (victor_89)*

The guy who started this topic said that bondo is ****...It's not...I used bondo, dupli-color primer, dupli-color clear coat, and the same exact paint that was the original color. I did all this at home...It's actually quiet inexpensive. The bondo is around $13 U.S.D. The primer and clear coat are around $20-30 combined. You can find the Bondo and Dupli-Color Primer and Clear Coat at PepBoys. The custom paint you can find at:
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
Your car should have a code in the car somewhere, that has the paint code. My Golf MK4 had it in the trunk under all that carpet when you pull it up to get to the spare. It's a quiet easy job, and doesn't cost a **** load if you do it right. Me and my dad did it...First time in our lives, and we made it look like nothing at all happened. What did happen was that the passenger fender was dented in, and the bumper had huge cracks in it. We ended up with a flawless fender and bumper.
When you buy the Bondo, it will have instructions for you. But don't worry about putting exactly like 1 1/2 in. of Bondo layers. All you'll need to do is put some Bondo onto the cardboard, and add a little bit of hardener. If you put too much, it will harden before you finish the first layer. Here are the basic steps:
1.Sand down the area to it's base. This means that there will be no paint, but just the plastic exposed after you sand.
2. Mix some Bondo and a small amount of hardener onto something like a piece of cardboard. The paste should turn into something I think is black. You can tell it is mixed when it changes colors completely.
3. You will have the Bondo, hardener, a net, and a clear plastic strip rolled up. I did not use the net at all for my bumper and fender. After you put on the thing Bondo layer, you need to quickly cut some of that plastic and place it on top of the thing Bondo layer.
4. Put another layer quickly on top of the plastic. You have to do this a bit quickly so the Bondo doesn't dry, but be careful and precise with your work.
5. Let the Bondo dry. I would say give it about 30-45 minutes or so.
6. Sand the rough bondo down so it's smooth. You will want to add a few more layers of Bondo and hardener on top of that, without the foil, unless the foil peels off or something. Sand down again until the surface is relatively smooth.
7. Use the Dupli-Color primer. You should get one with a silver cap that is relatively close to the silver on your Jetta.
8. Spray a coat or two of the primer on there and let it dry.
9. Order yourself the custom paint online. One 12 oz. Aerosol spray is $20. You may have to wait a while, so this will give the primer a chance to dry.
10. Once your paint arrives, shake the can for about 2 minutes. You then spray on a coat, and let it dry for around 20-30 minutes. You then should spray on a few additional coats, allowing the paint to dry a bit in between coats.
11. Wet-sand the area with a 600. Try to hand sand this if you could, it gets you the best results.
12. After you sand paper the area and everything, you should be able to see where the work was done, because there should be an area that is flat silver/white. 
13. Spray one more coat of the paint on.
14. Spray 1-4 coats of clear coat, allowing 5-15 minutes between coats.
15. Let it dry.
16. Install the part

I hope this is helpful for you. If I have anything wrong here, someone please point that out for victor_89. I tried to explain everything to you best as I could, because I don't remember the exact details of like the sand paper. We used a different sand paper for sanding down the Bondo, and then we used 600 for the wet-sand. Once again, I hope this is of some use for you.
~Orzel911


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## ruetzal (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)*

save


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## ylwmeansgo (Jan 19, 2008)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (tnewsomj)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tnewsomj* »_yes you never want to wet sand body filler because it does soak up moisture and slightly expand *also it is best not to wet sand your primer unless its etching primer and i never use anything but that*i know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons







lol


So you are saying that you need to not only not wet sand a nice 2 part (Primer + Activator) Primer and instead use an acid etching primer which causes fillers to lift over time and has absolutley no build properties? then wet sand said etching primer?







Etching primer is used for bare substrates ( e-coat at most ) for proper adhesion and corrosion protection, now if you meant *epoxy primer *than you are right to an extent in that, you can apply that over pre existing paint and fillers with no issues at all, however most do not have a great deal of build properties. *Lacquer* primers should not be wet sanded as they absorb water almost like the fillers, but a good 2k primer can be wetsanded just fine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *tnewsomj* »_i know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons







lol

So you spread more misinformation so everyone else get to go through the same bull**** you did















Sorry to bring this back from the dead but damn there is some bad info on here, read the back of the cans that you are purchasing and ask someone from a real paint store or talk to guys in dealerships that use this stuff day in and day out for factory warranty paint work, because some of these backyardigians are going to get you into trouble.......
and just so tnewsomj doesn't think im hating on him, he is extremely correct on the filler absorbing water.....NEVER wetsand fillers




_Modified by ylwmeansgo at 2:46 PM 8-28-2009_


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## CorvetteKillerVr6 (May 9, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (ylwmeansgo)*

just the thread ive been looking for!


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## RaraK69 (Jan 16, 2001)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (CorvetteKillerVr6)*

wow, all this wetsanding or not wetsanding filer talk. 
i do NOT wetsand metal fillers, i have wetsanded polyflex, quite often. I have a shaved bumper thats been painted 4 years that is still perfect, so i know polyflex isnt absorbing moisture. i figured a plastic filler will not absorb, i was correct.
I tend to always use ppg high build primer and wetsand that, it fills in any small sanding marks and lays "thicker" so its less likely to wetsand though for beginners. i usually take that to 800 WS before paint.


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## ruetzal (Dec 17, 2007)

*Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (RaraK69)*

I just filled in my notch (GTI Bumper) and signals on my NA rubstrip this weekend and thought I would share. 
For products I used
80/200/400/600 sandpaper
Spray 620EZ which is the pre-fusoring spray to help bond
fusor 143 50 ml filled in all my areas then some
Fusor Gun-Which I have available for sale if anyone needs. They stopped selling the conversion gun so you have to buy this one for 50 ml it costs me $50 pm me if you need it
I roughed everything up with 80 (clean prior to sanding really good) then I bought sections of a oem bumper/rub strip for filling (I also have a section left that fits the notch on a gti bumper/also I have extra rub strip left) Made the sections realtively tight but not to tight to play with it to get the position you need. You want it to the point where you can not touch it and it stays in the position you want. (the fusor will act as a great body filler too so no need to make the tokens perfect) Once everything is ready to go spray all areas with the fusor 620 ez spray to prep it
Next I held the section in place while my dad started fusoring. (Note: each fusor pack comes with 2 stirring sticks, you have to keep the fusor coming with these, if you stop it will dry within the stirring stick so its best to fusor the whole piece all at one). So since I held it into place and my dad fusor'd everything he could get at with my fingers there. (Also wear gloves and breathing masks) also a running fan is good, but this really should be done outside in well ventilated area). AFter that I held in place until it was decently dry (90 sec) after that I went on to the rub stips and while I was holding the rub strip sections together while that dried my dad went back and fusor'd the areas where my fingers where on the notch section. So you will have to do a lil back n forth to cover all the areas where you were holdin. After it dried we knocked down the fusor with a dremel until it was ready to sand by hand. AFter its fusor'd in and sanded down good you can take your poly glaze and putty it in then sand smooth..prime/paint.
edit the only reason wet sand is to save sand paper. Dry sanding glogs the paper up faster than wet sanding...both are perfectly fine to do either way. Generally a finishing sanding is done wet but its personal preference. For preping I use dry sanding. I will only do wet for finishing sanding

edit: I bought 2 50 ml containers so I had 4 stirring sticks. We botched the first stick right away since I had no experience with fusor. So to do the notch and the 2 blinkers on the rub you will at least need 3 sticks. If you had 3 guyz you could probably get away with using 1 max 2 sticks you just need people to hold the sections together while 1 person fuses and since that person holding needs to hold it in place a few minutes the fusor will dry in the stirring stick and you will need another so I suggest having at least 4 stirring sticks with 2 guyz.
pm me if you have any questions or want supplies for this job. I found it very easy once I knew how to use the fusor. You just have to take a few hours making the fill sections which don't have to be perfect but should fill the whole area generally well. Fusor will fill in areas that need filling. It dries like extremely hard plastic/tar 

I forgot to add fusor both sides top/bottom http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 



_Modified by ruetzal at 12:37 PM 2-22-2010_


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Bump this awesomeness. Pics please!


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## Aleks97jetta (Jun 18, 2009)

can anyone shed some light on how to replace the gasdoor on a b5 passat?


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## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Aleks97jetta said:


> can anyone shed some light on how to replace the gasdoor on a b5 passat?


Wrong forum? Possibly the B5 tech support?


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## davenowood (Aug 9, 2010)

*Painting wheels?*

i found this link through google - http://howtopaintwheels.com/index.php - and im a newbie to paint (except for what ive learned from vortex and other sites) so i was wondering what everyone's thoughts where on the process this guy does. im looking to change this








to this








thanks!


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## Tom Hustle (Dec 26, 2020)

JimmyzKustomz is the best garage that I know of plus their work is exceptional.


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