# AEB into 96 GTI (OBDII)



## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

Hi all,
I picked up and AEB today and plan to put it into my 1996 GTI (OBDII). I've done some searching, but haven't found a lot on the AEB into a MKIII. If anyone can point me in the right direction, or provide advice, that would be swell.
The engine is from a 98 Passat and I'll be using an 02A transmission. I want to use the stock management, as I live in the Great White North and running properly in the winter time is an absolute must.
The VR had an A/C unit that I'm not overly fond of, but would like to make work with the new setup. Since the AEB is an external-water pump engine that is normally longitudinally mounted, is there any setup that will allow it to work transversally? I'm told the ABA accessories will work if I get an aluminum underdrive pulley and shave 5.5mm off of it so that it aligns properly with the AEB pulleys.
The main problem I see right now is the intake manifold, which I'll have to have cut, then welded up again so that the throttle body is facing the side. 
Thanks.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*

use all mk3 ABA accessories. you will need to shave the lower pulley. you can use the ABA AC compressor. the manifold you will either need to get one made, use a small port one, or get a AGU big port manifold. or ive seen people make the AEB one fit but it is close. the mounts will bolt right up.
you will use all 4 cyl 02A clutch stuff. stock wiring is not too bad.
check out boostin20v sig. has alot of info.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubCanuck1* »_I've done some searching, but haven't found a lot on the AEB into a MKIII.

Almost every 20v swap post makes references to the links in my signature. That should answer most of your questions.
You've got most of the correct info. For the intake manifold you should just pick up a transverse unit. You should also get a transverse exhaust manifold, turbo and oil/coolant lines for you swap.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (Boostin20v)*

Well, on the manifolds, I'd like to keep with the bigger intake runners that the AEB has stock, so I believe I'd have to get a euro intake manifold to match the size. I was going to cut it down and have a D-Plenum welded onto it so that the TB was thrown out the side.
I don't imagine there's a difference in the exhaust manifolds, between a transverse and longitudinal...apart from the location of the turbo itself, is there?
For the oil lines, I was wondering if anyone's done AN fittings for theirs and how it turned out.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*

Yeah the differences in exhaust manifolds would be the placement of the turbo. As for AN fittings rather than the OE lines, thats an increased cost for no reason not to mention the issue of finding the right fittings for the turbo.
As for the intake manifold, short term there is no real issue running the small port manifold on a large port head. It'll support ~350whp and likely more that way.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (Boostin20v)*

OK. I did some reading and it seems 6 mm is the amount needed to shave the ABA underpulley. The question is, which side needs to be machined; the inside or the outside? I'm pretty sure I heard it's the inside. 
I've got a pretty good shopping list going so far. Correct me if I'm wrong on any of it.
-Transversal intake manifold (anyone know where I could find a euro one?)
-Transversal exhaust manifold
-Oil feed/return for the same
-aftermarket aluminum underpulley to be shaved.
-Altitude sensor
-diverter valve
-N75
-MKIII ABA oil filter housing (can't you just clock it with longer hoses?)
-MKIII ABA accessory bracket
-MKIII ABA Alternator (needed?)
-MKIII ABA tensioner
-MKIII ABA mount (I'm assuming just the front one is needed)
-MKIII ABA P/S pump (I don't suppose the VR one do)
Anything else?
I'm assuming the 98 Passats were drive by cable, not drive by wire, seeing as there seems to be a hook for the throttle cable. Can you guys confirm this? If it is the case, which cable would I be looking to replace it with, assuming I was using the stock MKIV or euro transversal intake manifold?
The host car is, as I may have previously mentioned, a 96 OBDII VR6, so the clutch master and slave cylinder should bolt right up, as should the cable shift (shouldn't need different ends as it is an O2A from a B3 Passat)
Lastly, I'm assuming the throttle body would mate up without issues to a regular 1.8T manifold, yes?
I think that's it for today.


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*

your vr throttle cable will work. you will need the rear motor mount. the shifter box will need to be a 4cyl box unless you make the vr6 shift tower work in the 4cyl box.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

http://www.qedpower.com for the OE euro large port transverse intake manifold.
Get a Mk3 TDI oil filter housing, already tapped for the oil feed.
AEB is DBW, should be able to use your VR throttle cable.
What TB are you referencing when speaking about bolting it to the 1.8t intake manifold? If the VR, no it will not fit without an adapter plate.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

Sorry. Yeah. I've got the AEB TB.
I'm curious why I'd have to swap a 4-cyl shifter box in. If I recall correctly, the only difference would be the cable ends, which I can get. I've also got the shift box from the Passat that the tranny came from.
Thanks for the big assist guys. Muchly appreciated.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

Your shift box should be fine.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

Thanks man.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

So, I'm on the hunt for the ABA accessories, and picked up an aluminum underdrive pulley. I just wanted to clarify that it's the inside of the pulley that needs to have material removed, and not the outside.
.....and here's the most pathetically newbie question (well, newbie to 4-cylinder gassers). Is there a particular vintage ABA model that would better with either the OBDII VR harness or the 98 Passat stuff?
Just hit me hard, right on the chin, and I'll not bother you again about it.


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## Blk95VR6 (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubCanuck1* »_.....and here's the most pathetically newbie question (well, newbie to 4-cylinder gassers). Is there a particular vintage ABA model that would better with either the OBDII VR harness or the 98 Passat stuff?
Just hit me hard, right on the chin, and I'll not bother you again about it.

Not really, but if you can find a car that was relatively stock, and consequently unmolested (so the wiring is intact, and not hacked up), AND a rear end (or side) total, you'll be better off. Just make sure to label everything, as wiring colors get blurry after a while...

Mike


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Blk95VR6)*

I'll be running the AEB Passat engine management, which I already have. I think I've actually got a line on the ABA accessories. I imagine I might have to get creative with some sensor plugs, but that's not new to me, seeing as with the TDI project, I had to splice all sorts of different plugs onto 3-years of different types of harnesses.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

OK, so I looked at the exhaust manifold and turbo setup today. I'm thinking I'm just going to fabricate my own exhaust manifold (not ramhorn, equal length, or pulsed) to put the turbo in a position similar to the 1.6 TD (up by the head, not down in the bottom)
Does anyone know where's a good place to find the flanges for the manifold and the turbo flange?
Also, is that thing oil AND water cooled? It's got a whackload of fittings on it. Do I have to run the water cooling as well?
I ordered the underdrive pulley and the euro intake manifold, so at least we're getting somewhere.


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## 155VERT83 (Aug 1, 2000)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubCanuck1* »_I'll be running the AEB Passat engine management, which I already have. I think I've actually got a line on the ABA accessories. I imagine I might have to get creative with some sensor plugs, but that's not new to me, seeing as with the TDI project, I had to splice all sorts of different plugs onto 3-years of different types of harnesses.

Save yourself some trouble. Use your stock wiring and these: http://www.reflextuning.com/ 
http://www.vwvortex.com/artman...shtml










_Modified by 155VERT83 at 2:30 PM 2-22-2008_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (155VERT83)*

you need the water cooling, if you are gonna make a manifold you might as well go to a t3/t4 turbo and make the upgrade now.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

I'm going to get the flanges measured and have some made locally. I don't want to upgrade everything before the car runs. I've seen too many projects done like that that run out of steam (usually $$$), like my TDI project which has been a large cost overrun.
I'll be keeping with the stock management and deal with the wiring. I don't really have an extra $2000 to put into the project (turbo and convo kit), so hard work and careful decision making will be the order for me.
I had never seen a water cooled turbo (I must lead a sheltered life). Pretty neat.....and complicated.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

Good news: I got a hold of a guy in town to do the CNC work for my flanges. Columbia River Mandrel bends are on order to finish up the rest of the manifold.
I put an order into 034 for the big-port euro manifold. Can't wait to see it come in.
Moses gave me the advice to get the dual sensor water outlet for the head, which is convenient as I think mine is cracked. Anyone have a source for that? I"m assuming it's an ABA part.....


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

The transverse cars use a single sensor port water neck, but the OE sensor is a 4 pin....no real need to get the dual port as you can use the same sensor for multiple needs.
The transverse waterneck is ~15 at the dealer IIRC.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

Thanks again!


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (bonesaw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bonesaw* »_you need the water cooling, if you are gonna make a manifold you might as well go to a t3/t4 turbo and make the upgrade now.

OK, so I looked into the turbo a bit more. It really is a tiny little guy. I can probably not fit my pinky finger into the inlet 
Which T3/T4 should I buy? I've seen some of them on eBay, and damn, are they really that cheap? I want to make sure I buy a quality turbo, but whatever's got the best bang for the buck is the criteria.
Looks like they're oil-cooled only as well, which would make me happier as I don't have to worry about coolant lines.
Please keep in mind that I'm not looking for huge gains in HP. I just want something that will work with stock management (maybe a chip).
I do have a transverse manifold, so I could use that, but I'm also bringing in flanges to make a manifold, so I could use any inlet flange I wanted to.
Let a fella know.
Edit: Before I get flamed with "SEARCH", let's go through the merits and drawbacks of the following turbos, which I pulled from another post.
I don't anticipate running more than 300 hp, so I imagine that would limit it to the first three?
T3/T4 (are these all created equal?)
GT28RS around 300whp
T3 super 60 around 300whp
GT2871R
GT3071R
GT3076R
GT35R 500whp?

_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 11:18 PM 2-28-2008_


_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 11:19 PM 2-28-2008_


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

None of those turbos will work well with a K03 chip.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

So, where does that leave me? I'm leaning heavily to the T3/T4 setup for quicker spoolups (and less $$$). What would be required to make it work? 
Plleeeeaassseee don't say standalone.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

Nope, just get a chip. There are several different options for 440cc injectors which would be about where you want to be with a T3/T4. If you want to shoot a bit higher there are also several 630cc injector files.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Boostin20v)*

OK, so a little update. After getting shafted by a Vortex seller who was selling ABA accessories, I found a guy in town with an ABA on the part. I got all the accessories and brackets for a non-A/C setup.
Quickie question, what size is the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer onto the end of the crank? I think it looks like a 12-sided 19mm, but wanted to validate that with the goodly VW folks here.
Picked up a euro manifold and got those flanges made up. Got a transverse exhaust manifold, but will probably build myself one as the transverse will interfere with the rear mount (and vice versa).
Still haven't picked up the neck yet.
I imagine I'd have to plumb all new coolant and oil feeds to the turbo, particularly with it in a new location. Anyone have a source for good feed lines like that, and also the size of the fittings I would need?


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## Racer16 (Aug 22, 2002)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

Hey just wondering I will be doign the same swap soon i hope as im still gathering parts.Just wondering as far as wiring goes.There are 2 different wiring harnesses for AEB engine early harness and a late one.The late one i believe is different from the early.The pins and plugs are different colors you will need wiring diagrams to help you out.Im trying to sort mine out right now.lol


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: (Racer16)*

the bolt is a 12point 19mm get new from the dealer as it is a stretch bolt.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (bonesaw)*

Just the stuff I was looking for. Thanks!
Ahhhh. I just figured something out (funny how that happens). I was having troubles taking it off. Then it just came to me. Use my flywheel locking tool to keep the crank steady while I reef on it. Woohoo!!!!


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## Racer16 (Aug 22, 2002)

*Re: (dubCanuck1)*

Not to hijakc the thread or anything but can anyone confirm that 6mm is the correct amount that needs to be removed from the aba crank pulley??And also does it only have to be machined or does a hubcentric ring need to be installed???According to futrell autowerks that is the case can anyone confirm??
this is off their site:
Doing a 1.8T swap and not sure which accessories to use? The A3s are by far the most readily available and bolt up with only minor mods, one of which is the machining of the crank pulley and installation of a new hubcentric ring, 2-3 day turn-around.

Can nayone confirm this??


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Racer16)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Racer16* »_Not to hijakc the thread or anything but can anyone confirm that 6mm is the correct amount that needs to be removed from the aba crank pulley??And also does it only have to be machined or does a hubcentric ring need to be installed???According to futrell autowerks that is the case can anyone confirm??
this is off their site:
Doing a 1.8T swap and not sure which accessories to use? The A3s are by far the most readily available and bolt up with only minor mods, one of which is the machining of the crank pulley and installation of a new hubcentric ring, 2-3 day turn-around.

Can nayone confirm this??

No harm there. I would like this to be confirmed as well. Also, do you use the AEB crank bolt to mount the pulley to the crank, seeing as the pulley is 6mm thinner.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*

Still wanting to know if 6mm is the definitive answer. Please chime in anyone who's done this.
thanks,


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*

OK. 6mm is the value. Thanks go to Geoff Rood.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: AEB into 96 GTI (dubCanuck1)*

OK, something new. Tonight I started digging into some stuff. One of the first things I tackled was the intake manifold. I bought the Euro, big port manifold, so it should be pretty plug n' play.
However, I noticed that the AEB manifold has an extra vacuum hose running to it. I'm wondering what I should do with the euro one now.
Here's a pic of the euro manifold. That's all the plugs she's got.








Now, here's the AEB. There's one line not shown, but it's the one that runs from the bottom of the picture to the Y is what's got me scratching my head.....unless these two are the ones to keep and the one that plugs into the bottom is the one that goes away.








Ideas?









_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 1:40 AM 6-9-2008_


_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 1:42 AM 6-9-2008_


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*

Not all 20v intake manifolds have the same number of bungs for vac connections. If you have too few, T a few lines together and connect to the intake manifold...if you had more than needed just cap off the unused one.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

Sounds easy enough. Thanks.
Next, I've got the ABA water pump, which is different than the AEB for number of exits. I'm lucky in that I picked up most of the ABA coolant hoses as well when I was stripping the other car. Can I discard all of the AEB hard coolant hoses as they just route to the wrong spots?
I also had a question about the oil drain on the k03 with the transverse mount. There's what looks like an oil return on the block just above where I'm mounting the rear passenger engine mount. If I eyeball the oil return hose on the turbo, it looks like it would have gone to this spot with the longitudinal manifold. However, the oil return has a banjo bolt and the actual hole in the block has a rubber hose coming off of it.
What's up with that?


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubCanuck1* »_I also had a question about the oil drain on the k03 with the transverse mount. There's what looks like an oil return on the block just above where I'm mounting the rear passenger engine mount. If I eyeball the oil return hose on the turbo, it looks like it would have gone to this spot with the longitudinal manifold. However, the oil return has a banjo bolt and the actual hole in the block has a rubber hose coming off of it.


Thats the coolant return NOT oil! The AEBs did not use the banjo of the later blocks. You can either get a modified hose made and just clamp it to the back of the block or pull out the bung and tap the block for the banjo bolt.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

Thanks. That's good to know.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

Anyone have the part number for the MKIII TDI oil filter housing/bracket that is needed for the swap?
My ETOS CD shows the part number is 028 115 417 (might have been superceded with a newer number)
...and has anyone ever tried the MKII 1.6L TD (engine code MF) oil filter bracket? Looks like the same piece, just with a different oil filter I'm sure.


_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 4:29 PM 6-10-2008_


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## bonesaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

a ABA oil filter flange works


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (bonesaw)*

But I thought that one wasn't tapped for the oil feed line for the turbo.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

Well, I thought I would put up a post with an update. Before I go any further, I'd like to extend a big thanks to Geoff Rood and Jeff Clarke. Geoff is doing a 20VT in his Corrado and was the real brain behind this design. Jeff Clarke was the wizard on the lathe who put it into action.
For those who can't live without pics:
























So, to put some description to the images. This is NOT similar to the FutrellAutowerks design. It is, IMO, much better. 
Here's essentially what needs to happen (paraphrasing Geoff and Jeff):
- Machine the inner face of the pulley by 6mm. This will completely remove the mating surface that makes contact to the crank timing pulley.
- Bore out the inside of the pulley by .250"
- Measure really well, and machine an insert that will be press fit into your new bore. Use Green Loctite (I'm sure from reading Geoff's posts that he spreads it on his toast







)
- Machine the plug if needed to be plum with the inside edge of the crank pulley
- drill holes into plug using the existing holes as guides.
- (This step not done yet) - lightly mount the pulley on the crank/timing pulley with the bolts. Take a mallet and give it a whack. This will cause an impression on the new face for your locator hole. Drill this out and mount.
The advantages of this over the Futrell setup is that you've got a completely smooth mating surface that works exactly the same as the OEM crank pulley and you don't compromise any of the structure that you removed by machining the inner face of the pulley in the first place.
I've asked Jeff and Geoff to provide commentary. I think it would probably be helpful to add to the 1.8T swap FAQ, seeing as I had to look pretty hard to find it.


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## Geoff Rood (Apr 30, 2001)

If anyone is wondering, the green loctite expands and hardens with a lack of oxygen, thereby simulating a 10 ton press fit. Works ok on freeze plugs too


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: (Geoff Rood)*

I suppose I should update this:
Just bought a TDI oil cooler and flange from a fellow in Ontario. Should be making its way here quickly.
I haven't "whacked" my pulley yet, but it's on the list. I'm saving up right now to get an aftermarket fuel rail. Anyone have any recommendations? The AEB fuel rail interferes with the Euro transverse manifold.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*

why aftermarket? the only reason people swap the OE units on the transverse cars are for intake manifold changes like the RMR which has one. The OE rail will support anything you're putting it through.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

Well, I'll have to take a picture. The pieces that bolt to the manifold are further down on the AEB manifold than they are on the Euro transverse. The "feet" on the fuel rail are hitting the the "seat" and aren't allowing the injectors to be pressed into the housings. I'll grab a pic when I can.
Keep in mind, it's an AEB fuel rail.
Also, picked up a water neck from the dealer today, but methinks it's the wrong one. I suspect at somepoint, the geniuses at VW decided to rotate the mounting screws 90 degrees. The big tube is supposed to point forward on this one, but when I mock this one in, the big tube either sits straight up or straight down.
Part number is 06A 121 133 on this one. Does anyone have a cross reference to the part number they're using? I looked at the Bentley and the part looks like it's built differently.










_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 2:52 PM 7-4-2008_


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

Looked in my ETOS CD and it looks like I might need the neck from a 2.0 L MKIII, part number 068 121 145 AA. The holes look like they are oriented properly.
Edit: bought that part and it didn't work either. Then I looked at Moses' car and figured it out.....
Use the stock one for the passat and the pipe that goes with it.










_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 6:00 PM 7-4-2008_


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

....and I think I get what you're saying Boositn20V. Use the OEM transverse fuel rail.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*FV-QR*

exactly, the transverse fuel rail...should be cheap in the classfieds.
also why are you ******* around with anything but the Mk4 Golf/Jetta (transverse 20v/1.8t) water neck? its like $15 at the dealer.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

The reason I've been on a wild goose chase is that the dealer gave me the wrong part (pictured in the picture above). I've since gone back and ordered both the proper MKIV transverse water neck and the stock 98 Passat one. 
The reason for ordering both: to help others with more accurate information and part numbers. I'm pretty sure you don't need to switch to the MKIV neck if you've got the stock AEB cooling pipes.
The ETKA has pictures of 3 different water necks for the MKIV transverse engines. If you order the one that looks like any of the pictures, you've ordered the wrong one, as the pictures are generic pictures that haven't been updated since the MKIII days.


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## Boostin20v (Mar 22, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *dubCanuck1* »_If you order the one that looks like any of the pictures, you've ordered the wrong one, as the pictures are generic pictures that haven't been updated since the MKIII days.
 yup, 9/10 times the picture is only good to make sure the part you're ordering goes where you think it does...not looks like it.


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Boostin20v)*

Mailman dropped off some goodies today.....







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for that guy...
MKIII TDI oil Cooler and bracket. 








....and cleaned up a little.








Should have it mounted up tonight.


_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 7:10 PM 7-7-2008_


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

Here's more on mounting it. You'll need to get the MKIII TDI lower left and lower right bolts for the flange as it doesn't have the same spacing on the flange as the AEB engine does. You can use the lower right bolt from the AEB oil filter flange on the top of the TDI one thought.
The AEB oil cooler and flange (you can reuse the cooler, BTW)...oooh. kinda dark pic. Sorry 'bout that.








The TDI flange mocked in.








Make sure to remove the banjo bolt from the TDI flange and replace it with the AEB oil feed. Also, transfer over your sensor (pressure, I believe)


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## dubCanuck1 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (dubCanuck1)*

OK. water necks came in.
Here they are:
Upper one (98 Passat water neck) is part # 058 121 133 B
Lower one (MKIV Golf/Jetta water neck is part # 06A 121 133 BB OR 06A 121 133 J (The part actually has two part numbers on it)








Edit: Forgot to add. The TDI shorty bolts for the lower part of the oil filter housing to the block are N 090 315 1


_Modified by dubCanuck1 at 7:30 PM 7-10-2008_


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