# Oil Leaking Problem...



## Vangpride (Jul 26, 2010)

*Problem: Oil Leaking (When car is on)
Car Model: Vw Black Jetta 1998 Vr6 *

I saw today my car was leaking when i turned it on. I've lost somewhat alot of oil i assume. I got some new oil and filter and changed it.(Been about 2000 miles since i've last changed it) I thought at first it was leaking at the filter but now i know it isn't. There's this little wire that is connected to the oil pan i believe but its right next to my Filter like to the upper left of it if your underneath the car. I'm not sure what that plug does but i know its leaking out oil alot when the car is on.  Someone please help me. Thanks.​


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## treczech (Mar 24, 2006)

*Oil cooler seal*

Try the oil cooler seal. Last month my A4 dropped all the oil. The mechanic fixed it a new seal-old one was cracked. My car was leaking some oil for sometime.


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## Vangpride (Jul 26, 2010)

I'll have to check it out. I have to look into it futher more. I have to verify where exactly it's leaking form, i know its somewhere around that area though. There's this other piece next to the filter that looks like it, i hope that piece isn't what it's leaking from. It's leaking alot of oil...


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## Vangpride (Jul 26, 2010)

anymore help?


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## treczech (Mar 24, 2006)

*Oil leak*

Oil temp sending unit???


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Vangpride said:


> There's this other piece next to the filter that looks like it, i hope that piece isn't what it's leaking from. It's leaking alot of oil...


 As others said, oil cooler o-ring - the oil cooler is "the part that the filter screws onto" (not really; but, it looks like that.)
Engine looks to be just hemmoraging oil from the top of the cooler (and, only when the engine is running)? Needs new o-ring. Only costs a few dollars (even at the dealer!), and very easy to replace:
- Drain cooling system. Detach coolant hoses from oil cooler.
- Remove oil filter (you should replace it...)
- Remove nut holding cooler to filter mount.
- slide cooler off 
- Remove old o-ring. Clean surfaces, and reinstall cooler. Torque nut to 18 lb-ft.
- Reassemble vehicle. Fill & bleed cooling system. Check oil level.

Entire job takes maybe an hour to do.


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## Vangpride (Jul 26, 2010)

cuppie said:


> As others said, oil cooler o-ring - the oil cooler is "the part that the filter screws onto" (not really; but, it looks like that.)
> Engine looks to be just hemmoraging oil from the top of the cooler (and, only when the engine is running)? Needs new o-ring. Only costs a few dollars (even at the dealer!), and very easy to replace:
> - Drain cooling system. Detach coolant hoses from oil cooler.
> - Remove oil filter (you should replace it...)
> ...


How do i know if it's the right one? Any pictures? I can try taking a pictures and posting it but not till later on tommorow. How do i know if i torqued it right to 18lbs? By draining cooling system which hoses do i detach and etc? First time trying to attempt this.


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## Vangpride (Jul 26, 2010)

Well i found that it is the oil cooler seal. It was cracked in two places. Well apparently my Q is would i have to bleed the coolant after draining it? and how do i bleed it? None of the auto stores around me carry this piece so that leaves me to the Dealership near me. It wasn't too hard, and i hope that solves my problems. Any more help would be appreciated.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

The dealership will likely have the part in stock - a LOT of VWs use that same o-ring....

Yes, you'll need to bleed the cooling system. Not hard to do:
- car parked on reasonably level ground (NOT with the front end jacked up!)
- slowly fill cooling system to line on coolant tank. Let sit a minute or two - the level will drop (this is normal.) Continue filling until it stays at the full line.
Start engine. Continue filling (if needed); coolant should start flowing from the bleed fitting at the top of the tank. If it doesn't, increase engine speed a bit (~1500rpm.) *If no coolant flows from the bleed line STOP NOW!* Shut engine down, remove bleed hose from tank & radiator, and clean fittings out with a small pick and/or drill bit. Reassemble and continue bleeding.
- Have flow? Keep engine running, and continue filling cooling system until the level maintains itself (takes a minute or two.) Reinstall cap. Run engine at ~2,000rpm until it's at operating temp, and keep it there for a few minutes. Shut down, and allow to cool. 
- Recheck level.

You should use a torque wrench here - too tight can damage the filter pipe and/or the cooler; too loose, and it'll vibrate itself loose.
No buddy with one? Autozone (and others) does have a tool rental (loaner) program - go grab one from them. It's no end cost to you.


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## Vangpride (Jul 26, 2010)

Well i replaced the oil cooler seal so thats fixed. Oil was leaking form my filter now and i found out my Oring for it wasn't on tight enough and some spots were loose so i fixed that and it doesnt leak oil anymore  I refilled the coolant and waited till it went down. Turned the car on rev'd it and no over filling or w.e. had the car run into the temp raised. Raised the heat (suppose to bleed it faster). The coolant went down abit. Shut the car off waited for 5 mins or so and rechecked the coolant. It was low again so i poured more. waited it stayed level'd. I turned it on, took it for a drive temp was in the middle. NO oil leaks so i'm guessing i did everything correct. I don't know if the car would over heat on me or not i hope not. I had my thermostat already replaced and also my water pump. I'm hoping nothing happens next. It seems to drive good. New oil filter and coolant. Hoping everything is okay. Wish me luck will update on what happens when i actually drive it around and on the free way. 

:heart: Last but not least thanks for all the help I really appreciate it. :heart:


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