# Rallycross VW-Caddy build thread



## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK everyone. I'm new here so please be kind. I hope you all will agree that rather than bury this in a model specific forum, I thought it would appeal to all VW lovers everywhere. Before I get into the build, some history. I have been racing pretty much all my life. In the last 7 years that has moved into SCCA Autocross, Time trials and best of all Rallycross. Rallycross for those unaware is autocross on dirt and more fun than you should have. I started with a Mk1 Rabbit in poor shape but with a 2.0 16V transplant. After a proper trans with a Quaiffe it started winning races in Mod Front. I then fixed it all up. It looked like this.



It did very well and was almost unbeatable in our region. It placed 6th at the SCCA Rallycross Nationals in 2011. In 2012, I broke the right lower control arm on my last run for a DNF. In 2013, I ran it most of the year and won the Region and division (southeast US) but a month before the Nationals, I rolled it. It is with another club member now who plans to fix it. I a panic, I built a 91 Golf in a few weeks and took it to the Nationals. I WON the national Chamionship in that car. It had the same motor and trans I pulled out of the rolled Rabbit. This was glory to win a tripplecross championship (Regional/Divisional/National) in the same year. Now what? Well, do it again in 2014. I took the time to do some paint work over the winter and this year, the golf looked like this.



It was even better than the Rabbit. A bit more stable and getting faster all the time. Well, yeah, racing twice a month doesn't hurt either. Seat time is king. So it was beating Subies and 4WD cars all over. It took 1st in both Mod Front (MF) and overall 1st in the Southeast divisional this year (2014). Since winning requires dedication and cash, I decided that he 16V motor had been beat up by everyone for 10 years and was pretty tired. We dyno'd it at 82 HP at the wheels. Really, 82. I had felt that the lack of RPM (6000) was holding it back on some courses. More RPM= no shifting into 3rd and that had cost me 4 seconds trying to find 2nd at the divisional. This would NOT happen at the nationals. So I had another 2.l 16V core. I then did a build of a better motor. 2.0L block, H beam rods, balanced, light flywheel, JP 10.5:1 pistons, 1.8L head, porting, Shrick Cam, a Techtonics header, a BBM fuel rail and Bomb intake with a VR6 throttle body, a Microsquirt (Megesquirt mini) EFI system, adjustable cam gear, balanced lower end close ratio gears, high ratio final drive, Driveshaft shop stage 3 axles (Because rally) and a dollop of cream cheese. Just checking there. 

It Dyno's out at 142HP at the wheels at Carma performance in Nashville. Using a steady state Dyno Dynamics Chassis Dyno. Real numbers, not puffed up Dyno-Jet numbers. The car was now REALLY a rocket. I had 1 week to test it before the nats. Oh yeah! So armed with a new set of Yokohama A035 Rally 'Tyres' I headed to the Nationals in Nebraska. Cold Nebraska in October. On the first run I held back just a bit. O the second run I opened it up. At the high speed section of the course, the right rear spindle broke. The wheel ran under the back of the car acting as a catapult. The car did an immediate violent triple roll.



My day/year was done. Now what? A lot of thought went into the drive home with the wreck. A really good motor and drive train was untouched. All in perfectly re-usable condition. Follow the others and cave into the Honda camp? NEIN. DAS IST VERBOTEN! I will rebuild another VW. But since I can do almost anything in Mod Front it allows major fabrication and combinations are pretty much unlimited what kind of Frankenstien should it be. 1-Lightweight, 2-low CG (2nd roll over), 3-Cool, 4-Unusual (well cool kind of covers that). I know, a VW Rabbit Pickup. Yeah. Beat em with a truck. Oh that will drive em mad. The planning was on. I found Joe in Smyna GA with a whole flock of Caddy's (P/U for the rest of you) and got a fairly good body with a rusted out bed. I don't need that anyway. I brought it home and now the most radical, insane Rallycross VW is about to be born. And so it begins......




I will be posting as it progresses. It has to be done by March for the 2015 season. I am NOT going to describe beforehand what the plans are. You just have to tune in and see it happen. Be aware that it's all figured out already. Oh man even I can't wait.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK, step 1. Strip the body for sand blasting. I told Joe the plan when I bought the body so he stripped it out for me. REALLY stripped it out. All interior, wiring, windows, drivetrain the works. It was left as a roller body only. The first step is to remove the hood and front fenders. VW likes to glue the fenders on with undercoating. Nice for rust, not so nice for removal. Chip the undercoating off around the head of the screws on the firewall and remove all fasteners. Then using heat, soften the undercoating at the joints. You are not trying to burn it out. An acetylene torch works great. Keep it moving and keep light pressure on the panel. When it gets soft, it will pop right off. Then remove the doors, front and rear suspension, and anything else bolted to the body.



The next step is to start cutting out what will be unused or replaced including the rusty bits. In this case, the bed had been used as a trash bin and was rusted away. I will not be using anything behind the cab except the rear outer fender skins. The entire inside of the bed, inner fenders and fender wells are history. Most of the work was done using cut off wheels in a die grinder. Then for bigger cuts in the bed, a sawzall is always a great tool Beware however that it can do a lot of damage quickly. A welder fixes all that right? Just kidding. The cutting torch is reserved for hard to reach areas only. I use it sparingly. I also have plasma, well a lot of em. My company (Dynatorch) builds CNC plasma and laser cutting machines. As such, I can fab up really cool parts quickly. You will be seeing these as it goes along. 



Next, the broken windshield came out allowing access to the dash area. The floor had a few holes but the plan involves using the entire Mk2 front end section. The floor, firewall front chassis, engine cradle suspension are all coming from the MK2. It has a better layout, engine cradle, a removable front cross member and more. Plus these are all in perfect shape from the Golf. So carful planning in cutting is required. The floor gets cut just inside the rocker areas. Then forward and around the rocker boxes, up the sides just ahead of the door frame, thru the dash reinforcement and about 1" below the bottom of the windsheild. This retains the door openings, hinges, windshield frame and rockers. The Mk1 fenders and hood will be used. When done it all drops out as one big chunk. The remaining body weighs less than 200 pounds. 



It's starting to look like the bones after Thanksgiving. Picked over by vultures. The doors have some heavy crash beams in them. These were bolted into my Rabbit doors but were welded in here. Some careful work with a die grinder and cut off wheel inside the door did away with those making the doors much lighter. There will be a cage.



It's all ready to go to the sandblaster for stripping and primer. Next, while this is gone comes the same treatment to the Golf, getting all the donar bits off the car and cutting out the floor/firewall/front end.


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## Yellerhammer (Oct 15, 2008)

Go Leon, go ! This truck is gonna be wicked, so the MF class better watch out. opcorn::thumbup:

John


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

Registered and Subscribed. I think I have an idea of where you are going with this, but it will be fun to see the progression. If you need some help with grunt work, let me know.

Ben


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Another day and more progress. The pickup body is at the blasters now so I have to rip apart the donor Golf. First remove the doors. Well that's harder than usual as they are bent and jammed. The right side latch was so jammed that no amount of beating would release it. I had to resort to the blue-tip-wrench. Cutting the latch pin allowed it to let go. Then I removed the seat, roll bar (now for sale) fuel pump, rear shocks (still good), Battery, box and cables, front fenders and hood, grille/radiator support and so forth.



The parts stack is growing and it's getting harder to move around. 



Now it's down to the drive train. In order to cut out the firewall and such, it will be easier if the whole front drive system is out for now. You may see that the front engine support is not stock. That is a fabricated piece I did made out of aluminum. The whole front cross member weighs 7 lbs. The motor mount has been stripped of rubber and rebuilt with Delrin and an aluminum sleeve to eliminate movement. And Yes, that is a baffled high capacity Milodon oil pan. Victor makes a windage tray/gasket that bolts right in.



So I unbolted the steering coupling, disconnected the engine harness, starter wires, fuel lines and simply dropped the whole assembly as one piece. Man I like that Mk2 setup. No need to pull it all out the top. Just roll it out he front.



Now it's getting bare bones like the truck. Next step will require removing the windshield. Then I can cut out the front floor/firewall/frame. A special tool to cut the glue holding the windshield is needed and I don't have one today. Harbor freight here I come.


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## 2Dogs (Dec 15, 2014)

Great fun Leon, can't wait to see the final product. Looking forward to watching it here!

Paul


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Man I love tools. Tools are the best. Tools make great things possible. You should buy tools. Lots of tools.
That said, the Golf gave up its chassis for the project with a little help from the sawzall and die grinder. You know, a mid engine, tubbed out wheel standing Golf does look possible from this angle.



So now the body came back from the blaster yesterday with a light coat of primer.



The rust areas are now much easier for isolate. The left rear quarter panel had been replaced somewhere along the line. It had a lot more rust than the original panel on the right side. It's clear that the replacement was never painted or undercoated. Let this serve as a lesson to all that the thin coat of black primer that comes on fenders is NOT going to be enough to prevent rust. You will have to do something before welding it in. The back of the cab where the truck bed attached is pretty rusty also. These areas will be replaced with new sheet metal. Also, having proper access to all areas now will allow a good layer of paint to both sides of the panels.



Placing the two major parts near each other will NOT make then self-mate. This is where the whole project slows down.... a lot. Trimming, grinding and welding the two back together will take some time. Perhaps all weekend. The Golf is about 1 to 1-1/2" wider so it's going to take some skills. It has to be square and strong. 



Next post should have the main welding done and start on the back of the cab. Thanks for following along. It's just starting to go from dis-assembly to assembly.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK, so as I said, this is the part of the project where it slows down for a while. Last week I did not get to work on it as other work took up too much time. Back on the project this week so I expect to have a lot of welding and fab done through the holidays. Right now it's about trimming and fitting the Mk2 Chassis into the Mk1 body. Starting with the floor. The rockers had a number of pinch welds. Removing right out to the rocker does not leave a good welding method. It would be a 90 degree fillet. By leaving 3/8" lip of the old floor, I can push the new floor up to that locating it better. It is under the old floor lip but the .040" will not be enough to cause alignment issues. 



The front area of the rocker gets trimmed next but will require a very good fit to but-weld it together. Then proceed up the firewall. I will be trimming and fitting the Mk2 floor by placing it on jackstands and leveled. Then raise and lower the body using the lift to check fit as I go. Once it fits properly, I start tack welding and then final weld. Pics of the details will come along as I go. The Mk1 is narrower than the Mk2, In some places it's 1-1/2" and around 3" at the top under the windshield. This will require rework or removal of the inner fender areas. I have a plan but until the fenders are fitted it may require modification.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The whole holiday weekend is dedicated to welding. I now have both halves married. It's solid. I am working on the back cab wall right now. I should finish that today and get another step down the road. Pictures will be posted Monday when I get back to work. There are a lot of details along with a few band-aids.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK, so it's time for the post weekend recap. To start with, a few helpful information bits. Wear gloves when cutting, grinding and welding. I usually resist it because I cannot pick up bolts, washers and small tools with gloves on. Then there is the need to feel panels to tell how flush things are. After smashing a knuckle, some burns and a cut from one of those fresh cut edges, I caved in. I spent the rest of the weekend wearing the gloves. My hands are healing. Second point I noticed is that it seems like EVERY tool I own gets involved in fab work. Pliers, screwdrivers, clamps of every kind, wood blocks, metal pits, tubes, every kind of grinder, drill , sanding tools, scrapers, measuring devices of all types, building square, levels, T square, sharpe markers, work-mate tables, extension cords, the welder, snips, dremel, die grinder and it's ALL scattered around the project. I have to stop and sweep up between work sessions. There is of course the smell of burning undercoat from the back side of panels and recessed corners. 

When fitting parts like this, always remove as little material as you can. It's a lot harder to add it back and it looks bad. Slow careful fitting and refitting along with proper marking helps. I use a sawzall for rough cuts leaving 1/4 to 1/2" of material for later trimming. Then I trim to the next level with a cut off wheel on a die grinder. Then finish fit with a 4-1/2" angle grinder using 36 grit "soft" pads. Not the flap discs or hard wheels. In order to mark some parts, I use a strong flashlight (LED) to cast a shadow and then mark along the shadow line with a sharpe. 

So, I left off with the new body getting trimmed for fitting the Mk2 chassis inside. The MK2 Golf is wider than the Mk 1 chassis. Depending where you measure, it's 1 to 3" narrower. This works out to be good as I only have to remove material, not add it in. I started with the dash board area. There is a box type construction below the windshield. In order to start dropping the body down onto the chassis, this needed to be trimmed to slide inside the forward door frames. I supported the chassis on 4 jack stands and leveled it and used the lift to raise and lower the body while fitting. The inside of the door frames were trimmed to remove all the old dash connection flanges and made flat.



Then, I marked the dash and trimmed it to fit between the door frames. There is a hole and a rib at the dash center that I used to make a centerline mark. Then measure to each side to mark the width. Slow trimming with the cut off wheel and a touch of grinder and it's test fit time.




Then the floor. I used the welded in seat rails as a guide for centering and marked the edges using the shadow method mentioned above. The stepped back out 3/8" for the flange I left on the rockers and cut along the edge. This got things a lot closer. 



This is starting to merge however, the front of the rockers have to protrude thru the front floor and connect flush to the back of the wheel openings. The Mk2 has a pinch weld flange at the front that has to be trimmed from the top of the rocker about 1" down to allow it to drop in. Then the body slides back over the rocker. This is the triangular section of the firewall to floor intersection. Even with care, I had a gap of about 1/4" between the two when fitted so 3/4" wide joining plates would be needed there. 



The dash fits tight against the sides, the floor pops into place with a nudge and the top of the dash under the windshield lines up perfectly. Then the gaps down the door posts to inner fender are straight. I cut and trimmed the door posts and fender using the lip formed by the pinch weld as a guide to get two nice straight edges per side. This picture looks a bit like a narrower gap at the bottom but its not a straight-on shot. The Mk2 chassis is wider here. So the inner fender will have to be pushed in to match the width of the door frame. Another note is that the MK2 has a box brace on the outside that connects the firewall to the strut tower. This is going to be replaced with a stronger design later so I cut it away to allow the sheet metal to be moved.



Well that was all on Christmas day. Time to stop and go have a meal with the family. Next step, welding. Lots of it.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Friday after Christmas and it's the big welding day. To start, I tacked the floor at the front, middle and back. Then the dash box to door frame, then the top of the dash to the lip under the windshield and on the outside at the top of the inner fender where it meets the flange by the hood hinge. It all fits where everything is lining up together without a need to pry or push to get it to fit. That's a good thing. It means that it is all square. A damaged body would make this a lot harder. Then I started bu welding the floor on both sides.



Then I used those strips of 20 gauge to weld the front rocker area. This went from the floor about 3" back forward and up around the rocker along with a strip inside the floor to where the firewall meets. Then the hard part. This involves re-shaping the inner fender. When bending it back, it wants to pucker. To solve that required slice relief cuts.



Then, wince the Mk2 is wider, the gap cannot be closed by pushing the fender in. A patch panel is fabricated and welded to both sides all the way around. At the top, the inner fender is clamped and welded to the "S" shaped lip that follows under the windshield frame. Another weld is added inside the engine bay area where the firewall meets the door frame 



One of the problems is keeping the panel flat while welding. I used angle iron on both the inside and outside clamped with huge C-clamps around the door frame. Additional spacers were made from tubing and blocks to hold it all. Then I moved it inor our to allow access and when removed, the panels were all nice and flat.

Then some detail spots around the top of the firewall and dash ends and finally a strip along the windshield base.



And that's another day. I'm tired and my hair hurts. 
Saturday, the cab back wall.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Saturday Dec 27th. Today a new back wall to the cab is required. The rust extended up above where the bed floor step is located and got right up to the bottom of the embossed areas. Patching at that point would be a bear considering the in and out shapes of the embossed area.



So, I decided to make a new back wall top to bottom. I cut out the old one leaving a 1" lip all around to allow for plug welding the panel into place.



I then measured and drew up a new panel. I cut it out at work using the laser. Oh, doesn't everyone have a laser? Yeah, it's a perk of building them for a living. Then I went to bend it on my 48" finger brake but it's 51 inches wide and will not fit. A call over to my pal Brad Stell at Stell Fabrication and I got lucky. He was at his shop working on a side project. "Come on over". He's got full fab equipment including a big CNC press brake. When I got there, they were pulling the body of an S10 Blazer 4x4 off the chassis to install a 50's Chevy body on it. Big forklift helps a lot there.

Anyway, I went back and did some more trimming and added some beads to the panel using am English wheel with bead dies.



Then I used the floor as a guide to cut the opening for the tunnel. Some slides and bending and it fit pretty well. The E-brake cables on the Mk 2 pan sit about 1 to 2 inches back under the wall so I had to do some creative fitting to get that to weld up without modifying the pan.







And there it is. The whole body now feels like a unit. 

But that's not all. Tomorrow a surprise!


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Sunday, the last day of the Christmas holiday. Today, it's a fun part of the project. Shorten the bed 6". Yup that's right boys and girls. This will make the wheelbase similar to the Golf in length. That6" will help when making sharp turns. It's also less weight in the chassis department. To start with, the cut will be right thru the gas filler door area since that will not be used. The filler door opening however turned out to be 6-3/8" so that's the number I am going with. Using a large framing square and some careful measuring, I marked the location with a scribe and then added blue tape to show the edge of the cut (between the tape).



Then before cutting, a jig needs to be made to keep everything in place and square. Using angle iron, I ran a rail down each side and clamped it to the bed. Then cross measured for square and added X bracing to create a frame. This is all welded together 



Now to make a precise cut, I would not use a saw. The cut off wheel in the die grinder even tends to bump about a bit. No, in this case, I opted for the Dremel. Yup, that little wonder of the hobby world. Using the cut-off disks allows for very fine control of the cut and low heat. The thin body metal is no match and yields fairly easily. Work slow and steady with both hands.



Once the outside skin was cut, I lifted the frame to cut the top and inner and then re-clamped it down and did the other side.



Then push it all forward and re-clamp and..... bingo. Sorry for the fuzzy pic. I did not get a good one.



And remove the tape and add panel clamps. These are small clips that I got from harbor freight that hold 2 panels flush. 





So there goes a perfectly good holiday weekend. I am thinking that TIG welding the bed panels would be better, and I have a great welder at work. I'll transport the body down to the TIG welder and have him do it after hours. I also have to put in a new panel on the lower left bed side due to rust. Both will be done at the same time. Then it's a bit more grinding (Man I hate grinders) and some epoxy primer and seam sealer and it will be ready to head off to the cage/chassis shop.


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## 206vw (Sep 11, 2003)

subscribed for awesomeness


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## ayton (Mar 12, 2003)

in for updates!:thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

A couple of boxes arrived today> Rear suspension parts.
Can you say Miata?




The lower arms are OK. The spindles use the same bolt pattern as the VW. I will add new rotors and calipers tomorrow and start drawing up the mounting. The upper arms will be rebuilt with rod ends and tubing to provide a longer arm that is adjustable for camber and caster. The original Miata uppers are very short to provide a lot of camber increase on squat. On rear drive, there is a lot more to consider like torque loads and such. Since this is FWD, the rears need to have some camber but a large increase will not aid rotation in the dirt. In fact. a FWD car does not like to rotate except on decelleration. In order to get rotation a rear hand brake or turning brake is used. That's the big tall handle in the car that looks like a Rat-Fink shifter :thumbup:

The lower arm bushings are almost new. Urethane is great for a car on pavement. In dirt, some compliance actually helps grip. Stiff suspension and shocks are very bad for a dirt car. I will be using some off-road coil overs on the rear.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

Wow, awesome progress Leon. I'm sitting down watching Christmas movies and eating Bon bons, while you are slaving away creating a Caddystein. I figured you would go for the shortened VW body, but the Miata rear suspension got me...nice touch. Looking forward to seeing this thing run!!!

BTW, the shortened Caddy looks WAY cooler.


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## windycityvdub (Jan 21, 2008)

That's awesome, Leon! Can't wait to see it in person one day. 


P.S. you should cross post this in the Car Lounge, it will get some much-deserved visibility there!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?1-The-Car-Lounge


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

I really wasn't sure where to put this thread. This seemed like the most "general" VW area to post it.
Anybody know how to move a thread?
Any other opinions on the best place to put it?


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## 206vw (Sep 11, 2003)

leave the thread where it is!


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

Wow , you are a true craftsman. This is an amazing build and I just want to say thanks for sharing your journey here on the Vortex. I always loved the VW Caddy styling. Now to see it as a shortbed and soon to be rallycross contender is especially rewarding. And this is definitely the right place for this thread. After all most of us are lounging while others are busy building something truly special. Can't wait for the paint scheme. opcorn: opcorn:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

really wild build! good luck


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

There was progress over the 1st. I finished welding the bed and did some cleaning, grinding and priming. All the bare metal is covered for now. I set the doors, front fenders and hood on to check the fit of the parts to each other. Also to see how much interference there is between the inner fenders and the narrower front fenders. There will be some material removed. Also, I can raise the camber adjusters up about 1" under the hood. This will allow for a lower ride height (lower C.G.).



Now for a tech tip. I picked up the brakes for the Miata rears. Then I did a quick test fit with a VW alloy wheel. The 14" wheel will not clear the caliper and needs about 1/4". However, I picked up "Sport" version brakes as the parts shipped to me said sport on them. The Sport version suspension uses larger brakes. Probably with larger wheels to match. I exchanged them for standard Miata rear brakes which are 1" smaller in diameter. These fit with no problems. Since the Caddy will be so very light, that is still plenty of brakes. These are discs where the factory was drum anyway. Another big plus is that the smaller units will reduce unsprung mass and that is always a big plus for racing. The calipers have provision for connecting an E-brake cable. I hope my VW cables are long enough but that also is solve-able.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

This weekend, the welds were seam sealed and the new brakes for the Miata Rears was fitted. Now It's almost ready to go to the chassis shop. 
The remainder of the weekend is drawing up the suspension to verify travel and camber range. Then select shocks.
After those are decide upon and the new upper arms are drawn up, it's time to design the cage and rear chassis in Solid Works 3D. This will go along with the body to Kirk Racing so he can fabricate the cage and chassis. 
I will try and post some of the CAD work.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

When designing a suspension, a lot of people will bring up roll center, CG, thrust loading and a host of wonderful and complicated considerations. When starting with nothing but a big hole filled with air, you have nothing to work with so these items cannot yet be determined. The project has a huge number of variables and many depend on each other so the project has to be broken down into manageable bits. A few key considerations for this project is that I want as much suspension travel as I can get and vehicle stability ( I have rolled 2 cars). To Begin, I do have the Miata components so that is where I start. Carefully measure all the key dimensions such as length and pivot positions relative to the spindle. I draw this up in Cad so I can manipulate the geometry and see how much travel I can get before I run out of movement. I also want to see how much camber change there is. Using the front cradle assembly, I measured the hub-to-hub width for track width so I can use that same dimension for the rear. It turns out to be 58.75" Remember this is a Mk2 front end so some additional width is expected and wheel openings may need to be rolled.



You may not be able to see this well from the pic but on the left is the Miata parts as they are. In most cases, the lower arm is parallel to the ground at rest. Using this as the baseline (middle) I then moved the spindle down (extend) and up (compress) 4" in each direction. In extension, the upper arm is only 6 degrees from a lock-up. That is it can invert and that's bad. I see that at the extremes, the shorter upper arm causes camber increase as it moves. In compression, that is good because the outside tire leans in at the top for more bite but in extension, that is not good as the inner tire does the same loosing bite. If I use equal length arms as shown on the right, the camber does not change. Since the arm will be adjustable in length, I can set a camber angle that will be the same thru the whole travel. Not ideal but better for the inside tire and also safer at extension as the better angle on the upper arm is preventing a lock-up. I will go with the setup on the right.

Another detail that can be addressed using the drawing is the shock absorber travel and the mechanical advantage (leverage) caused by the inboard placement of the lower shock mount. The leverage is the distance from the lower pivot to the wheel mounting face divided by the distance from the lower pivot to the lower shock mount. That is a factor of 1.7 In addition, the shock will sit at an angle, not straight up. The angle reduces the shock and spring effectiveness also. A pre-guess at shock angle is 65-75 degrees. Using 70 degrees, that makes the effectiveness Sin(70) = 0.94 so this will play in later in determining spring rate. A 100#/In spring actually acts like (100/1.7)x0.94 = 55 #/In See? 

Now another factor is going to be the ground clearance. at ride height with the arms parallel to the ground, the frame rail next to the lower pivot has about 7" of clearance. At 4" of compression, that drops to 3" To determine that , I had to measure the tire diameter and figure that into the drawing. (It was 23.6" so spindle CL to ground = 11.8"). 

Now, in order to draw up the cage, I needed to measure the truck. Lots of dimensions. I came up with some sketches to start with. On item is the static height of the body at rest. I want it to be about level. I know about the length of the front struts installed so using that, I lowered the body on the lift with a rear wheel in place for reference. 



Now we already have drawings for the suspension and I know that at ride height, the lower tube of the rear chassis is 7" off the ground. The floor in the body at that point is 10" off the ground so the rear suspension will have to do a drop behind the cab of 3" I took the roll bar from the Golf and set it inside while measuring so I could see a bit of where things might end up.



The next step is to draw a 3D model of the cage and chassis for the builder. I will have to include the suspension mounting tabs and give him dimensions for the back half of the vehicle.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

So now I have a 3D model of the cage assembly. This is NOT complete. All the mounting tabs for components and the additional bracing are not included. This is the base cage only. While building Kirk Racing will determine the additional bracing required. This model amounts to 157 pounds of steel. There will also be a skid plate under the rear section. The battery goes where a differential would be if it were a RWD platform. I need to locate all weight down low but the rear is extremely light so a lot of attention is needed there.


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## 2Dogs (Dec 15, 2014)

So will all the rear suspension bits tie directly into the rear protrusion on the cage or will there be a rear sub-frame for the cage to sit on?


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## [email protected] (Mar 31, 2014)

Well this is insanely bad ass. Subscribed. :beer:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Rear suspension A-arms attach directly to the rear cage structure. Think formula car or Razor. It's like that.
New Upper A-arm fab this week then off to the chassis builder.
Shocks ordered yesterday.

http://www.offroadshocks.com/product/King-Emulsion-Coilovers-2/PR2006-CONRS.html

King brand. 6" travel coil over adjustable.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Last night I re-installed the drive train in preparation for delivering it all to the cage builder. At least I now have 2 wheels rolling under it.


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## Rage In The Machines (Aug 27, 2002)

Subscribed.


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

Dynatorch said:


> Last night I re-installed the drive train in preparation for delivering it all to the cage builder. At least I now have 2 wheels rolling under it.
> 
> <a href="http://s205.photobucket.com/user/technogon/media/Motorin002mini-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb253/technogon/Motorin002mini-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Motorin002mini-1.jpg"/></a>


That body looks factory straight. Outstanding job. :beer:


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## Yellerhammer (Oct 15, 2008)

Epic. 

opcorn::thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Not a lot to report right at the moment. The dreaded "backorder" problem starts to kick in here. Shocks and some suspension bits are on back order. Meanwhile I did get tubing, rod ends and I'm in the middle of fabricating some of the brackets. The upper control arms for the rear are 1" diameter Chrome moly with left and right rod ends for adjustment. As soon as they get finished, I will pack them up with the body and it all heads off to the chassis shop. Looking like a bit behind my original schedule so late this week. 

As it was miserable cold last week and I was waiting for parts, I ran off to Florida for the weekend. Got back yesterday. 

The tailgate frame will go in tonight. Then I have to build a rolling stand to allow moving and transporting to the chassis shop.


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## rock over london (Sep 15, 2000)

Amazing work Leon!! I was sad to see the MK2 mangled, but really happy to see (at least some of) it live on!!

Subscribed!


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

More done. Doors, front fenders, seat and hood bolted on. Rear frame for tailgate area installed and old sheet metal rear apron removed. Suspension brackets are all cut and drilled. Bolts arrived today. So it should all go to Kirk racing tomorrow. I just have a few details left for the morning.



Rear wheel is just set in place, but it looks like it's ready to roll around. It's going to look a lot more complete when it comes back. Knowing Mark, he'll have it done very quickly. Just bring money, that always makes things get done.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

A BIG day yesterday. I delivered the truck to Kirk Racing for cage and frame fabrication. Moving on to phase 2. Included with it was the rear suspension parts bolted as assemblies.



When you see the next post it will be a rolling machine with all the tubing installed and looking really awesome.
Plan and 1-2 weeks break here. Then it's back to the hammers of hell in order to get it completed.
Fuel cell is ordered, shocks should be here when it gets back so then all the supporting tabs braces and mounts have to be made up and installed.


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## SkipZ (May 15, 2014)

A truly inspirational piece of work you got going here! Makes me wanna get my lazy bone pile up and do some wrenching of my own. Sub'd.


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## 2Dogs (Dec 15, 2014)

Dynatorch said:


> Then it's back to the hammers of hell ...


Haha, excellent!


I expect to see this beast ready to go by late February, based on this insane build effort.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

*Update*

OK, Major update. We have some progress again. I went down to Birmingham today and visited Mark at Kirk Racing. He's had a few days on it now and plans to finish it Monday. I can pick it up mid next week. So this was one of the really big parts of the project, the cage and chassis. He still has to do the rear shock mounts, the forward upper a-arm pivot points and the front section ahead of the firewall but to satisfy the burning question, here's a peek.


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## 206vw (Sep 11, 2003)

:thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

#1, the rues allow for complete revision of the suspension with unlimited changes. Going from leaf spring straight axle to IRS with A-arms requires a complete chassis build in order to provide mounting points.
#2, There is no rule that prevents this. (doesn't say I can't)
#3, the factory rear bed has no frame (and it was rusted completely to garbage)
*#4, It has been blessed and examined by Keith L who wrote the rules.* He's watching the build.
And that kind of says it all. Before beginning I spoke to the RXB and got a blessing as recommended in the rules. I am not trying to cheat, just crawl up closer to the allowed limits. Now everyone will know where those limits are. 
FYI it retains the factory floor, firewall, front frame rails, doors, cab structure and all body panels. The rear section is a lot like back-halfing a Camaro for drag racing when installing 4 link to replace a leaf or coil rear end. They used to call it pro-stock.
The rules clearly exclude ATV's and tube frame vehicles like rock crawlers. It IS closer to the limits than anyone has attempted but it has been approved as inside the intent of the rules. I also did not just cut out material to save weight, I am adding back more to provide for a stronger than stock (and safer) vehicle.
I think I'll get Keith to inspect it and sign the dash just so all the protesters can save their cash:laugh:
Ya'll can start a campaign to change the rules for 2016 if you like. Or join me in the fun zone.


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## orionf1 (Mar 28, 2003)

6.1 ELIGIBLE VEHICLES
(Mandatory for all SCCA sanctioned RallyCross events. See Article 4.1)
A RallyCross event is open to any fixed roof, four wheeled, mass produced
passenger vehicle (including convertibles with a factory hardtop attached, 
targatypes with factory panel in place, t-*tops with factory panels in place) that 
can pass safety inspection. If the Event Chairman after consultation with the 
Event Safety Steward determines at his discretion that a vehicle cannot safely 
negotiate the course, it may be excluded.
The following types of vehicles are currently not eligible to compete: ATVs, UTVs, side-*by-*sides, Trophy Trucks, Crosskarts, Formula Cross, Legend cars and * tube-*frame vehicles*.

While I think it's a very cool build, I've had several conversations regarding just this type of build. The intent of the above rule was written so that essentially a unibody car kept the unibody intact and the body on frames were still body on frame at the end of the day. I'm definitely very curious about what rule updates we are going to see and if we are going to allow the tube frame frankenbeasts like this into the fold. I am by no means taking anyone's side. I've been waiting for the day to come where a build truly pushed the envelope of what our rule set says or doesn't say and that day has arrived! We are basically in the toddler stages of rule writing. I was around when the original rules in this format were published and it left a TON of grey area.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

I'm am very much a new comer to the sport, but it seems that the modifications that Leon has done would be very similar to the back halving argument. The only major change in addition to the backhalving is the wheelbase change and that is the same as a standard Rabbit. Another similarity to consider is a standard pickup truck. I know plenty of people will take an old pickup and shorten the 8ft bed to a 6ft that was offered that year. In a sense that is what Leon has done with his project. Shortened his wheelbase to the wheelbase of an oem offered in that year.

The way I understand a tube frame car is the car could be driven without the body, similar to the vehicles listed...trophy truck, legend car, etc.

I love the innovation put into this car. Innovation breeds more innovation and/or a further development of the rules. Either way our sport is advanced. As with any racing the rules will be pushed. If its not this car it will be the next.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Well, we can argue all day here with how we interpret the rules. I don't want the thread to degrade into that. Innovation usually involves doing things that are not specifically in the rules because the rules cannot ever address the number of things people will think of. We all agree that this is a grey area. In the end it will come down to the sanctioning body rules committee. The reason I bring up Keith is that he was tasked with and wrote the update to the rules after the Subie showed up last year missing the last 2-3 feet of the car. In our conversation, the major 2 things that he stressed is they require is safety and external appearance. If you cut the roof, you MUST install a cage. I think the best thing is to get Keith to clarify it so that I don't have to play 20 questions. While he is not the whole committee, he is a representative of the group and is a key spokesperson.

Also note that the one picture I submitted here shows only the back suspension build. It does not show the cab interior which is all stock, plus the cage. Other pics show the front section.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

Agreed. Are you done yet? Hurry up and finish this already!


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## BR_337 (Sep 3, 2011)

awesome!! 
watching :thumbup:opcorn:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Bumped to the RXB for comment. I will abide by whatever they recommend.
(is it getting warm in here?)


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## orionf1 (Mar 28, 2003)

I don't think it's getting warm necessarily. I think with such a new build that is pushing so many of the current rules, its a questioning of everyone's interpretation. 

I've read and reread the rules as they are currently written. I can't quite figure out whether it's totally legal or not!! 

Despite the reference to an individual that is updating a rule set, you have a sanctioning body that has a membership and that membership has a say in how things progress. I think what might sound like an attack to the builder is meant more of a true question of how they feel it's a legal move when the rules might be interpreted to say otherwise. I've never taken on a build this extensive for the simple reason that in the past when building my car I asked about several mods similar to what I see here only to have just about everyone I asked say "not a chance that's legal" and without a single one supporting my ideas I just didn't take the time to proceed with my build due to time and money resources. I chose to stick to something a little more simple.

I don't run in your class presently yet I do have a car somewhat built for the same Category (Mod) so naturally I'm VERY interested in the progress of BOTH the build and the Rules updates because we are an ever evolving sport!!!

Personal opinion - this is one of the coolest Mod builds I've seen! I'm learning a LOT about some sweet engineering aspects I hadn't thought of!


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

I am getting feedback from other sources that go both ways. There are actually good arguments that could go either way. It all depends on the intent of the rule as the RXB determines it. The membership does have a say. In the rules there is a large section about submitting suggestions for the rules committee. There is a timeline for each year and an approval process. All members are encouraged to participate. The rules are updated only during that process. 

Historically, the mod class has been comprised of prepared cars with more parts removed and possibly better shocks and springs. Not much else. I am going for a longer walk down the dark alley. I hope I don't get mugged


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## EvanB (Apr 4, 2011)

I'd hardly call this a tube frame vehicle. I think it is entirely legal and look forward to seeing it next year.


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## Three Wood (Nov 29, 2008)

sigma-racing said:


> Nowhere in the rules is says that you can change wheelbase. Yes, you are allowed unlimited mounting points for your suspension but it says nothing about wheelbase.


I guess this means I cannot rallycross my RX-7 anymore because I made the wheelbase longer and shifted both axles forward to try to get more weight back...

Leon, we're definitely watching here, keep up the news. Definitely is interesting. I don't know IF i can say what we're saying but I will say from a personal perspective that if this was a Golf or Rabbit, I'd be all "NO WAY".


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## mkivgolfin (Nov 25, 2014)

Mother Mary that thing looks amazing! How heavy is it? Looks like a flea

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Still waiting for the "official" word from RXB but the unofficial word so far is that the wheelbase change is OK as it is left open by the word "geometry" which also includes track width and ride height (also not mentioned in the rule for the same reason). I bet nobody would pass a ride height check
On the other item, frame rails it appears that I am allowed to ADD to them, not remove them. So I am already planning to replicate those back into the bed area along with the cross bars and then install some kind of similar to stock bed. I have access to a low mile bone stock Rabbit/caddy here to measure all the components and make it dead on correct. I will tell you that what VW used back there is almost a joke. I'll post pics of the stock setup later.

And yes, it's going to be pretty light. Even stock they were under 2000 Lbs.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

> Even stock they were under 2000 Lbs.


Wow, didn't realize that, but I guess that makes sense.



> frame rails it appears that I am allowed to ADD to them, not remove them


Just thinking out loud here, it seems that it would make sense to at least make provision for a limited modification of the original frame (such as a C section or frame notch) if no provisions of back halving are allowed.

I just remembered this truck. http://datsunminitruckin.com/topic2232&OB=DESC.html The frame was Z'd for RallyCross. I wonder if this would no longer be legal? Of course, it doesn't really matter. It doesn't look like it will be on the course anytime soon.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The BIG day has arrived. I picked up the truck today from Kirk Racing. Feelin' the rush.
So here is the back section.



And Here is the inside of the cab.



Showing the sill and door bars and how they connect to the front floor here.



Then the front section where the bars pass thru the firewall and pick up the strut/camber plates. Now THAT's a Strut brace ya'll



In addition, the shocks arrived today also.



After some discussion and inspection of the bone stock Caddy here, I am thinking I will go ahead and rebuild and install the original frame rails along with some other parts of the old bed support. They really are simple and not much weight. The old stuff on my truck was completely rusted away and useless so I would have had to do the same thing if I were to go back to the leaf spring system. I need something to keep the fenders from wobbling anyway so braces were on the list either way. Using the stock stuff simply makes it a non-protestable. We'll have to pull the old one out to make measurements and take pictures to satisfy everyone. I'll post a pic of that truck as it's been in hiding indoors for over 30 years.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

I think you will need a little more substantial seat belt, and I'm not sure you have enough adjust-ability on the rear suspension. :laugh:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

RallyX Mk4 said:


> I think you will need a little more substantial seat belt, and I'm not sure you have enough adjust-ability on the rear suspension. :laugh:


I'll try and fix that tonight. In fact, the lower control arm bolts are 12mm but the shocks are 1/2" So, I have to fabricate special 1/2" bolts with 12mm threads.


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

<a href="http://s205.photobucket.com/user/technogon/media/Cage%20fab%20B%20008%20mini.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb253/technogon/Cage%20fab%20B%20008%20mini.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Cage fab B 008 mini.jpg"/></a>

Love the shifter. What kind of paint scheme are you thinking for this epic build.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

A common error. That BIG lever is the turning brake. The shorter lever with the ball is the shifter. You can tell by what is at the bottom. It does however have that "Rat Fink" feel to it. The paint will be a wrap. It's going to be a REALLY big surprise so I am saving that for the end. More tomorrow.


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

Dynatorch said:


> A common error. That BIG lever is the turning brake. The shorter lever with the ball is the shifter. You can tell by what is at the bottom. It does however have that "Rat Fink" feel to it. The paint will be a wrap. It's going to be a REALLY big surprise so I am saving that for the end. More tomorrow.


Upon further inspection I see the brake lines, thanks for clarifying. A wrap, I can't wait.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

As is common with fabrication, even the simple things get complicated. Installing the shocks required 2 hours. I had interference with the upper mount on the shocks as they have a large diameter block on the end that is wider than the mounting width. I had to grind the lower side of the shock mount perches about 3/16" and then put the shocks on the mill to machine the block sides 3/8" further down each side. This will not affect the strength but just takes time. Then when installing the lower 12mm bolts, the nut in the cage just spun free. I had to die grind the hole in the control arm open a bit more to access the nut. Cut the cage with the "blue tip wrench" and remove the nuts. Then drill the mounts out to 1/2" anyway to allow standard 1/2" bolts to be used.

Then, the addition of the X bar near the front prevented me from installing the fuel cell where I had planned. I now have to put it as shown in the picture. Typical fabrication issues.


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## mkivgolfin (Nov 25, 2014)

Looks great! I see you have three bolt holes on the upper shock mount, do that just allow adjustment for shock travel for different terrain?

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

Is the shock body going to allow for enough compression? Im sure you will wait till the stock frame gets put back in but it looks like your springs are either too long (need cut) or too stiff or your top shock mounts are too low. Are those concerns? These comments are all based on the perception that the vehicle is sitting a little high in the rear and the springs looked cranked down.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The springs are actually 100 Lb/In and are quite soft. Per the section I wrote about travel, these allow for 8" of travel. They will sit about mid stroke when I get the rest of the rear section built. About 170-200 lbs of parts to install back there. The travel, clearances and all are figured into the design. That's where CAD helps out. 3D Solid works allow for design with motion and interference checking. It only works however if you have all the parts exactly correct. Not all parts are available in 3d since some are custom ordered. In answer to the 3 bolt holes. This allows me to move the top of the shock changing the geometry and thus the effective spring rate. The outermost hole will produce the highest spring rate and the inner the lowest due to the leverage on the shock. To go further, change the springs. It's an easy adjustment in the field.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Another weekend in the bag and some progress. We had our year end (last year) awards banquet Saturday so I only got 1/2 day there and 1/2 day after church. Thus I didn't get as much done as I hoped but....
I did fabricate and install the rear skid plate. The 2 holes at the back are for tie down and towing. Then I installed the "Rusty's Off Road" battery box and new Optima battery. Then I fabricated a plate to mount the fuel pump and filter and mounted those up as well. The plates are all bolted in to tabs I welded to the frame so I can disassemble, repair and reinstall as needed. Or make new and install later should a change be required.



Then I had to relocate the switch panel. It used to be on the left of the steering colum but with the new cage I moved it to the center below the gauge panel. Still have to tie up the loose wires but it's almost completed.



The fuel cell mounts will be fabricated today. I needed access to a larger brake to bend them. Then it's fuel lines and brake lines next.


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## almulopez (Jan 22, 2015)

Wow, amazing work!!!!

Subscribed


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Pictures, pictures. Everybody loves pics. Well its detail time. Lots of work for little gain. Some parts arrived yesterday. The brake hoses I had custom made had the wrong banjo bolts for the calipers AND the wrong style ends for the lines. The threads in the calipers look poor and the surface for the copper washers is also rough. So much for rebuilt A-zone parts. A trip to Mazda today is needed to try and get good parts. First, I found that at full extension, the adjusters on the shocks were hitting the inside of the pocket in the lower control arm. Remove the shocks and spindles and heat the material to a nice orange glow, then using a ball peen hammer masage the pocket to clear the adjuster. It turned out pretty well. No material was removed so it's still strong. The overall travel with the 6" at the shocks is 9" per side. That looks like this:



Serious travel eh? I did also get the fuel cell brackets installed.



And the battery disconnect. Located just inside the drivers window ahead of the window net to allow external worker access in an emergency.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

If you get tired of RallyCross, you might be able to take it out to Hollytree and do some rock crawling with this thing. :thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Weekend work and a big step forward. I only got Friday night and Saturday morning to work on it as I had a road rally to setup and run. So, I installed the battery cables, electrical connections, fuel lines, Exhaust system, brake hoses and lines and e-brake cables. The brake lines were a huge pain as they supplied the wrong ends on the hoses. This required several trips to the store to find correct lines and fittings to re-connect everything. The Miata e-brake cables actually will work out. I only need to make a small modification to the link on the brake handle (more on that later). The exhaust was pretty simple. I had a local shop make up an S tube and then fab'd up some mounts. It's pretty load. And that kind of gives away the news. I fired it up this weekend and DROVE it out of the garage 



So next is the fabrication of the radiator bulkhead and fender supports for the front. Once I get everything under the hood re-secured, its time to take it to the sheet metal shop and have the bed frame rails, supports, tailgate an liners rebuilt to make it legal again. Then paint.


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## HeonGTI23 (Apr 3, 2012)

Excellent work my friend!! Huge fan of rally and I think this thing is monster! Sending my respect from the 603!:beer:


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## nothing-leaves-stock (Mar 1, 2005)

:beer:


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## odj (Nov 26, 2001)

I'm digging the hell out of this. :thumbup:


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## impulse byer (Mar 8, 2003)

Love it! It's been a little while sense I've been inspired by a build on here!


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK, I had to forgo Top Gear Monday night to get some more work done. A lot of work has been on the rear as that was all fabricated to allow installation of an IRS type layout. Now I Move to the front. The radiator bulkhead and fender supports. I used 1x1 square tube with .055" wall. I did the fab work on the vehicle and tack welded it together. It looks like this as a unit.



Not much to look at but extremely sturdy when bolted in. The rear of the side rails bolt to the cowl.



It had to be relieved over the strut plates but that was reverse boxed to make it string again. (A detail pic after it's tig welded.



Then the fenders go on and bolt to the side rails. This will also connect the hood pin brackets, radiator upper mounts and the grille attachment.



The frame is now at work for TIG welding and will be reinstalled tonight.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Details details. Today I got a little time to fab some small parts. The hood pin nuts are welded to the radiator support frame and the radiator upper brackets are fabricated and installed with rubber vibration washers.



The I made up a new radiator fill tank bracket. Welded it to the front frame bracke. The old one is on the side of the strut tower and now is under the strut brace in an unusable position. I'll cut it off later before painting.



All ready to go to the sheet metal shop. I can fill the radiator and warm it up.
Next step is the tailgate and bed frame installation.


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## Three Wood (Nov 29, 2008)

Does that square tube weigh significantly less than the old sheetmetal?

I look under the hood of my GTI and think, there's no point in removing any of this, because anything I could make to replace it would weigh more. But then I am also somewhat lazy and something that is already there is easier to fabricate :laugh:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The radiator bulkhead in the original is very light. This weighs about the same. The difference is mating the Mk2 sub frame to the Mk1 fenders. That requires something fabricated.
I'll post a pic later today of the truck I am using for the frame documentation. It's on the rack now.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK, so here is something for you to want. The VW Caddy I am using to measure and document the rear frame assembly under the bed. This is a southern, completely non-rusted Diesel Pickup that has been hidden away in a factory since 1984. Along with it's partner a 4 door Rabbit. Both motors had injector problems. The motors and trans were removed, disassembled and left that way. All the parts were cleaned up in 1984. The parts are all sitting on the benches just like that since then. The owner says "I am going to finish that someday. Yeah, sure. And NO he will not sell them. He turned down $8K for the pickup already.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

I couldn't help but share this Leon. I saw this the other day going up Chapman Mountain and I knew I had to get a photo. Looks like your not the only one in the Huntsville area with an Mk1/Mk2 CaddyStein. Of course this is the ******* way of doing it. :laugh:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

I now have a boat-load of pictures of the rear frame assembly along with dimensions. This has been translated into Solid Works as parts and then assembled as a model. I still have to convert each part to a drawing but when done, I will give that to the sheet metal shop to fabricate the parts and install them. A drawing of the assembly is like this.



The truck is going over to the metal shop tomorrow to begin the work. Pictures of the progress will follow.


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

Dynatorch said:


> OK, so here is something for you to want. The VW Caddy I am using to measure and document the rear frame assembly under the bed. This is a southern, completely non-rusted Diesel Pickup that has been hidden away in a factory since 1984. Along with it's partner a 4 door Rabbit. Both motors had injector problems. The motors and trans were removed, disassembled and left that way. All the parts were cleaned up in 1984. The parts are all sitting on the benches just like that since then. The owner says "I am going to finish that someday. Yeah, sure. And NO he will not sell them. He turned down $8K for the pickup already.


I may be the only person who thinks this but the best features of this vehicle is the word Volkswagen written across the tailgate.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

FINALLY some progress again. 2 snow storms in the last 2 weeks brought everything to a stop. Then being behind on work did not allow the sheet metal shop to spend time on it. Yesterday (Saturday) we finally got back on the project. The frame rails and bed supports were fabricated to match the original drawings.



Then fitted and tack welded into place. The rails had to be clearance cut to avoid the coil over shocks. Then re-boxed back in for strength. I got to do my first TIG welding in many years. Then the cross supports for the bed were installed and the reinforcements for the ends of the frame rails where they connect. So now the truck is technically legal again. The next step is to fabricate the bed floor and walls to close it up (mostly) and make it look more like a pickup again. When disassembled for painting it will all get full welding. I hope that will satisfy the protesters. This is what the RXB demanded for legallity according to the rules.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

New DMacks?


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Actually I have had the set for a year and only used them once. So far I think they are best and harder surfaces and gravel. We don't get much gravel here so I will save them for out of area events where they may pay off.


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## Magic__Mike (Feb 23, 2011)

wow this blows away my rallycross mk1.
awesome build


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The bed floor is complete and bolted in.



Tonight we work on the inner bed sides. Then the tailgate.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Fuel for the fire ya'll. The bed sides are in. They will get ribs rolled into them for stiffening later before painting but they are installed with Dzus fasteners at the bottom and pinch latches at the top so they can be removed for washing out the fenders or access to service the suspension, brakes etc.



From the underside you can see the original rebuilt frame rails and cross members.



Tailgate is next and should be ready to come back to my shop for paint and bodywork. Complete disassembly will be required to do that right.


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## CORYVR32 (Oct 25, 2008)

Epic build bro.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

A bit more work. The tailgate is almost done. 




The truck will be back in my shop Monday and ready for tear down. Racing this weekend. You will see progress pick up speed again as it gets body and paint starting next week. The finish line is in sight and there are a lot of really cool details to come. Stay tuned.


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## 8382 (Feb 18, 2006)

Awesome fab and vision sir!

opcorn:


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## 2Dogs (Dec 15, 2014)

Dynatorch said:


>


Be sure to post before and after pics. I'd like to see a comparison with this one. 

Also, those look like Miata spare tires...


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

FINALLY. Back on the project after an extended hiatus due to weather, vendors and a Miata engine swap. I am taking vacation all week to work on body and paint. Then wrap and finish. It will look like back-stepping as it comes apart for paint. First was a lot of welding to complete. This included braces for the rear fenders. These were made from some of the bed channel material and also serve as mounting points for the rear mid flaps and fender liners to be fabbed from ABS. This reduces the packing of mud and dirt into the harder to clean areas later.


-
Now for a teaser. The grill/brush guard is being fabbed up. It will have some graphics to enhance the cutouts. This keeps the "truck" theme going as well as dressing it up for that aggressive look. This also serves as mounting points for the tie-down / tow hooks.
Note the "eyeballs".



I'll post each days progress as it moves along this week and next week. Finish line is now in sight.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

CRAZY! Was this done with the new laser system?


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The laser was busy and I was in a hurry so I had a local buddy with a waterjet knock it out. Bartertown baby!

The right side is ready for primer, the left side almost ready. The brush guard is further along. More pics tomorrow.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Both sides of the bed are done. The brush guard / grille is fabricated and fitted. Ready for powder coating the frame.



And of course window nets. Because racecar.



Next welding up the front turn signal openings and then strip, sand, prime the body.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK, real progress. The front turn signal openings will be a big hole in each side so I wanted to close them up. I am sure you have all seen the methods before but here it is again.
1-grind back the paint around the opening for welding.

Then cut out a cardboard template fitting it closely to the hole.

Next copy this to a metal sheet about the same thickness as the panel.

Then cut it out. I used a band saw. Snips distort the material requiring hammer flattening and then grinding the edges. Try a nibbler otherwise.

Next form the part. Use any and all tools available to get it to fit tight. Light grinding of the part and a LOT of trial fitting befoe moving on. Do not allow it to sit outside of the fender as it would require a lot of filler.



Then weld it in with lots of short tack welds spaced apart. Avoid building heat in any one area to reduce distortion.
When welding. You can hammer and dolly right next to the weld to get it to sit down where you want it.

Grind down the welds and check it closely.

The get out the filler and smooth it all out.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

NOW the paint booth made from plastic sheeting is stapled up form a sealed area. I sprayed etching primer last night and 2 coats of filler primer today. Color goes on the body shell tonight.
Prime and paint everything else this weekend and start re-assembly.


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## GRN6IX (Jan 2, 2003)

Great progress :thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

One step closer. It's all painted. Smoke grey metallic. I did the doors, fenders and hood off the car along with the misc parts from the frame and suspension. The body is "wavy gravy" for sure but it would take another 2 weeks of sanding and filling to get it to original quality. That's one reason it's getting a graphic wrap job. Cammo for the details. I decided not to paint the aluminum bed liner and tailgate as they can't chip or degrade much. A quick acid wash and they look like new again. Also it's simpler. Here it is with all the parts loosely hung on the body.



This afternoon I'll start re-assembly. It has to be at the wrap shop on Thursday. A lot of new parts to install it should go pretty fast. Next week it gets a windshield. I may not have every detail done for the first race ON THE 18th but it will make it. Look out here comes the VW Borg.


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## 2Dogs (Dec 15, 2014)

Can't wait to see it at Hollytree.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Very cool build


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Sunday AM it was rolled into the shop. After church I got started with reassembly. The rear suspension, fuel system, electrical, brakes, skid plate, drive train, cooling system, fender and radiator support, steering are all installed.



doors, fenders, hood and details tonight,


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Moving right along. Fuel system, cooling system, all the little padded cable clamps, doors and latches, exhaust, engine wiring, hood, front fenders, brush bar are all installed. Warmed it up last night.



I still have a laundry list to go but the pile of parts on the floor are almost all gone. 
I'll be onto a lot of those tonight and should be about finished tomorrow. Ready to go for wrap Thursday.


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## odj (Nov 26, 2001)

Looks good!


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

Anxiously waiting for the "wrap".


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

A late night yesterday as there is a lot of details to manage. Still, this is where it all comes together and it's starting to look a lot better. Fenders installed, tailgate, fender extension, bed liner, hood prop, and a whole lot more.
One of the reasons I started Dynatorch was that plasma CNC machines are a huge help in fabrication. Right here are a couple of applications where I used the machine to whip up some parts.
Washers anyone? I needed some large diameter from 1/8" plate for seat mounting. This does not even require a program. It's a standard shape, just enter the dimensions and quantity and less than 2 minutes later I have 8 nice washers. No drilling required.



Then, I made up door panels. I know some of you will ask WTH for? Well, I always put them in for several reasons. First, they eliminate sharp the edges of the inner door and that protects me. (2 roll overs and no injuries) Second it keeps dirt from piling up in the doors. Third it looks nice. I like nice. I had some left over .035" aluminum sheet with one side anodized black. Good choice. A few minutes measuring and a few more in cad and It's out to the Dynatorch. Less than 5 minutes later, I have a left and right door panel. Actual cut time on the machine is about 20 seconds each. They weigh mere ounces.



Now some details, the fuel lines pass the bed floor. That's a sharp edge. Always protect those with some rubber knock-on edging. The fuel lines here require adapters. NOBODY makes an AN6 to 5/16 fuel line fitting. AN6 is 3/8. Most fuel line is 5/16 in stock vehicles. So I had to lathe up some 3/8 to 5/16 unions.



The upper shock spring plates get loose at full extension as I am running the springs all the way down. In order to prevent the plates from possibly sliding out under full extension, I simply drilled a small hole in the plate on each side and used safety wire to secure them together. Not a likely issue but I see no reason to take a chance. When you come across a potential issue, it's never smart to say " it'll never happen".



I install the door panels with riv-nuts. Also called nut inserts for sheet metal. These work like a pop rivet and use a tool similar in design. I hold the door panel in place and drill a 1/4" hole thru both the panel and the door making sure to avoid existing holes. You never want that dreaded 1/2 a hole. Then open up the door hole to 3/8 and install the "nutsert". Now isn't that better?



So then, the old seats were used in a lot of different cars and are about shot. Ditto for the harnesses. They were getting stiff and the latches are getting harder to operate. Doing a new project at this level I sure was not going to drop in those parts. So......



Drivers seat brackets bolted in loose and set the set in. That's about enough for one night. It's 11:15


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## flying_oliver (Apr 29, 2013)

..... Holy crap this is an amazing build. Just read through the whole thread. Keep up the good work!!! :thumbup: 

Subscribed!!



If you're bored, this guy has a sweet caddy build going too. 
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5800971-MK1-Caddy-R32-4-Motion


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

I will confess that when I do a build, I spend a lot of time planning it. I try to imagine every detail and then plan for how I am going to deal with that item. The planning can be as much fun as the actual build. It does take an enormous amount of planning. Sometimes, there are things you cannot pre plan as the parts are unfamiliar. This is the case with the e-brake. Rules state that all cars must have a working e-brake. This includes modified class cars. When installing Miata rear brakes in a VW, something has to be changed. There are 3 options. 1-use Miata brake cables. This requires a mod at the brake hadle. 2- Use VW brake cables. This requires a mod at the calipers. 3- Fabricate everything. Lots of time and $. I did not know what the Mazda parts looked like till I got them. They have a special bracket at the caliper. The VW cables were way to long on the end and would never fit to the calipers. I went for option #1. The shortening of the wheelbase was fortunate as the Miata cables were just long enough to pass thru the original holes in the floor. Removing the guide tubes and grommets, they stop right in the holes. Perfect. The ends in the cab were however too short. Those ends also had a molded on barrel type fitting 90 degrees to the cable. An adaptor needed to be made up. ABout an hour kater I had made this.



It installs on both cables. I removed the cable guide inside the cab behind the handle. Then welded a piece of all tread onto the pivoting handle extension that used to pull on the cables. This passes thru the bracket. With 2 nuts (jam nut setup) it all works perfect.



The cable are located at the center just above the exhaust so I felt that some heat protection was required. I had some high dollar silicone protective sleeve for turbo hoses that fit just right.




All that just for a parking brake.
The drivers seat, harnesses and all are also installed now. I just have to bolt in the passenger seat and it goes to wrapping later today.


.
Next pics will blow you away.


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## California 16v (Jul 20, 2008)

Dynatorch said:


> Next pics will blow you away!


Awesome build !!!

subscribed


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## Blu_Hare (Mar 13, 2007)

Dynatorch said:


> Next pics will blow you away.


In. opcorn:


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## Big Bad Wolf (Jan 29, 2003)

awesome build,,,cant wait to see some video of it in action.

in,,,for the next set of pix.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

OK it's finally time for the pay-off. Nearly complete now. The wrap is done and came home last night. Still have the windshield to do today and a few small details. It will be racing Saturday but muddy so it will get all dirty. Not to worry, it all washes off.

HERE IT IS.


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## Jason4 (Sep 15, 2001)

I was tracking right up until the grill guard and the wrap. Those two are over the top for me but half of racing is marketing (for) your sponsors to justify the money spent. 

Can't wait to hear how it runs in competition.


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## RallyX Mk4 (Dec 16, 2014)

Awesome! Can't wait to see it on Saturday. Do you have a front skid plate installed or do you run without one?


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

That big 'ol Milodon steel oil pan is all the skid plate I have ever needed.
Windshield is in, RallyX banner and wipers. Next the mud flaps will be really important this weekend and some other smaller items. I hope to finish it tonight.
I also have to fab and install the rear hub retainers. More on that tomorrow. Better put on the Siverstones for Saturday.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Sometimes little things do a lot. The hands on the grille were never meant to lay flat as that looks rather silly. A slight bend to the hand and fingers lends a different 3D effect.



Then there is the rear hubs. The Miata hubs are pressed into the bearings much like the VW front hubs. The hub is retained by being captured by the axle shaft splined hub and the outer nut and washer. This sandwiches the hub to the bearing. Without the axle, I needed a fix. I fabricated thick aluminum washers for the outside and inside and used a 1/2 x 4 inch bolt with a nylock to do the job. After breaking off a rear axle last year and destroying one car, I did not want to have a repeat.




Then I want to keep all the mud from being packed into the front and rear of the fender area in the bed section. Solution, ABS fender liners. Starting with a cardboard pattern I get the basic fit.



Tomorrow I will cut these out and bolt them in.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Dynatorch said:


> That big 'ol Milodon steel oil pan is all the skid plate I have ever needed.



Any pics of the oil pan? I know Mororso had a large baffled steel oil pan but I didn't know Milodon had one.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Oops. Yeah It's Moroso. They both start with "M" and I have had both brands of oiling system goodies over the years. Just a brain fade.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

Dynatorch said:


> Oops. Yeah It's Moroso. They both start with "M" and I have had both brands of oiling system goodies over the years. Just a brain fade.


good stuff there:thumbup:


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## Phillip J Fry (Jun 23, 2014)

Outstanding. :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Friday night. Rear fender liners installed and ready to roll for race Saturday.


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## Blu_Hare (Mar 13, 2007)

Can't wait for the vids of this thing in action! :heart:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Well I can't wait to get it into action. Last weekend it made it's first outing. All was well in warm up and parade lap in the mud. It was a swampy muddy start. On my first run, the ignition cut out suddenly. A new rotor and cap did not help. The MSD box was showing no signal pulses. Last night I got into it and found that the magnet in the pickup had broken loose and caused carnage inside the distributor. That was the end of day 1. So today a new distributor needs to be sourced and perhaps I can make it over to Georgia this weekend for another try.


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## PintSized (Sep 27, 2005)

where are they racing rallycross in GA?


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Next one is Atlanta region SCCA at Durhamtown on the 26th Contact Wes Stuckey
Then Mid GA region SCCA at Byron Ga on May 16 http://mgascca.com/?page_id=14
I can pass along more info as needed.


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## Blu_Hare (Mar 13, 2007)




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## 206vw (Sep 11, 2003)

I like it so far


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The breakdown was a small but significant part. The magnet inside the distributor broke off and grabbed onto the wheel thus destroying the pickup in the distributor. New distributor is in today so it should be ready again tonight. Looks like rain AGAIN all weekend so I might have to postpone more testing till next week.


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## 89foxrocket (Sep 25, 2002)

Any chance your national will be in/ near daytona this year?
I'dlove to see this on track. We'll be running 2 FV's and may bring the old super vee.

And a very cool build.:thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Daytona is a long haul. The closest I can expect to run is at "the Firm" In Stark. I have run there in the past and done their 2 day Rally School. It's seriously fun and educational. I think its www.gorally.com also under PallyPro.
I am not sure yet about the timing but with the nationals in August, I could see doing and event down there when it starts getting "chilly" in Alabama.


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## mp_caddy (Jan 21, 2011)

:beer:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

First full testing today in the dry. Runs good but it is tail happy. The turning brake is more effective due to the Miata calipers. The best runs appear to work at medium throttle, not over revving but smooth easy steering and throttle. There is a design flaw. A pickup without a rear window SUCKS dust into the cab. I will have to install a plexi rear window and possibly vent wing windows to push the dust out. The power brake vacuum also quit. I will have to see why it is no longer pulling from the manifold. No leaks but.....? Teething issues. I am glad I have a place close by that is always available to check things out.


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## 2Dogs (Dec 15, 2014)




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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Picked up a roof mounted wind deflector today at the bone-yard. That, some wing windows, some removable side windows from plexi and I will retest next weekend. This time some in car / on car video to be included.


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## Blu_Hare (Mar 13, 2007)

Dynatorch said:


> This time some in car / on car video to be included.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

I found a roof wind deflector on a Mitsu' minivan. It was an aftermarket aluminum unit and just about perfect. Some paint and some nut-inserts on the roof and it looks ready to test. Pics not great as it's painted black.


Side view showing the curved profile.



I have the side window covers cut and will install the retainers tonight.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

You are correct that wind deflectors like this are used to keep the rear window cleaner by moving a steady flow of air down the back window. In a pickup, the air in the bed circulates up the rear window carrying a lot of dirt. This air the rolls back over the top and down into the bed again. The deflector will fight that circulation, at least near the window. Next step of required is to remove the tailgate when in dust so that the air flows down and out the back. All of this is well documented in gas mileage studies done on pickups. Downforce is not really considered useful in Rallycross speeds, particularly in the corners.

The window opening covers are installed. They can be modified to work with the vent windows if that is best.


Vent window assemblies have also been sourced. I will test various configurations this weekend and report what does and does not work.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

I did get video of testing this weekend, My movie converter is too old to import MP4 so I will need to mix it up on my laptop tomorrow and post it up.
I will be coming to the S.W. show in GA on my way to Macon for a race on Friday (Race Saturday). I will be there WITH this truck on Friday about 12 noon to 3 PM when I have to leave to make it to the hotel. I hope to see a few of everything and just park the truck with the Caddy on the trailer while I get lunch an bob about


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

AT LAST---VIDEO for you.
Test & Tune play day at Hollytree off road park. 
On Youtube at: http://youtu.be/ix-wdnzKpYs
There are many events in AL and GA I plan to run at over the next 2 months, then off to the Nationals in August.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Well I got a real weekend race on Saturday. I went to the SOWO as I was passing thru on Friday. A lot to look at even for a couple hours. Some pretty cool rides and well... a lot of posers. The hella look just doesn't work. Either tub the car or get some IMSA style flares on that thing. Still I did enjoy the walk around. Saturday must have been a mob. 

I ran at the MGA SCCA (middle Georgia) event on Saturday. Won the class well but Charles Wright in SA got me by 1 sec overall for the FTD. Some was on hard dirt and some on pavement. That Evo on hard surfaces really hooks up. Plus Charles isn't a 2X national champ for nothing.

Lesson 1. The rear shocks were chosen somewhat at random as I did not even know what is was going to weigh. As such the valving is super soft. Too soft. On a quick rise / jump the rear was about 3 ft off the ground (pic is coming) as it launched with little rebound in the shocks. I have a set of dual adjustable QA1's to be here today. They have wide band of adjustment on both compression and rebound. I will be running it again this weekend at Birmingham (AL region). Another chance to do some tuning.

As for the steering, yes RX does involve a lot of input. I have a 2X quickner on my formula racer but not on the Caddy. I am considering adding one and just have to decide how to mount it up. Should have that done next week.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Yes, I have one in the formula car. It's the purple bit in the pic below.

I'll try and get a spare column to work on so it's a direct swap when I get it all assembled.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The new QA1 shocks were a big help. Running the compression at 7 out of 14 and the rebound at 12 of 14. A lot of the areas I have been running at are very hard packed clay. The rally tires just cannot dig into that so I am getting some Hoosier dirt track tires to try out. They are designed for that kind of surface. This next Saturday I'll be at Hollytree and it looks wet-ish all week so the rally tires will be fine. I'll post pic of the tire range when the new ones come in.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Ok, another fabrication job. This time installing a steering quickener. As previously observed, there is a lot of steering input on dirt. In order to get the vehicle to make directional changes, it takes more input than on pavement. In many cases, while coming out of a turn it is critical to unwind the wheel as fast as possible. This takes TIME. And time is our enemy. Anything that saves time makes us faster. I got another steering quickener from Speedway motors along with the splined ends to weld to the steering shafts. One big difference here is that I will not be re-using the ignition switch setup or the upper end of the column. To start with, disassemble the steering column. The tube is actually 2 pieces that slide together as is the shaft. Take it all apart.

Next, using nylon or delrin rod, fabricate a spacer with a collar to fit the quickener into the lower column tube. This stabilizes the system and aligns the quickener in the tube. Shown here in black delrin.

Now to install one of the splined couplings note that the set screw is too long and will hit the side of the tube. Grind it shorter to allow it to clear. Note the longer original and the shortened one next to it.

Installed set screw now clears the inside of the tube.

Next lay out the parts and measure the required length of the lower steering shaft. It will slide inside the coupling 1 inch. Add that to the shaft length. In order for the quickener to line up with the original mounting bracket, I had to shorten the lower tube.

Then cut the shaft to length and assemble. In order to hold everything nice and straight, I put it into the lathe and used the live center on the end opposite the chuck to press and align it. Then tack and weld it together.

Now assemble the lower section of the column.

Install the lower section and hold the steering wheel where you want it. Align that with the input shaft of the steering quickener. measure between the Mounting bracket and the quickener to work out the required bracket depth.

I used 3/16 x 2" steel bar stock to make the mount. While I have access to big bending brakes,, this job was simple enough to do at home. The tool is a Harbor Freight bending die set for a vise. I put it in my 20 ton hydraulic press. Bend angle was 83 degrees using a protractor. 

Then drill holes and paint the bracket. Measure the upper steering shaft length, cut and tack and check it. Then weld it up. Install and check for issues.

Paint parts and that's about it. Ready to race tomorrow.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The steering quickener was absolutely the right choice. I can now drive the whole course without moving my hands on the wheel (except to use the hand brake). Never having to re-position saves time. Also unwinding the wheel coming out of a turn is much faster now. And time is the enemy.


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## flying_oliver (Apr 29, 2013)

You are not kidding about the dust!

And the quickener looks really good; nice fab work. How many turns of the wheel does it now take to go from side to side? I believe that the stock manual rack is 3 and 3/4 turns..


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## cwescapexlt4x4 (Jan 2, 2003)

Great work and project! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Time for an update!! A snap on bed cover will be added to stop all the dust being sucked up from under the bed. That will make a huge difference. Observers noticed that there was a huge amount of dirt being carried into the area behind the cab and swirling tornado style. This makes sense now. Live and learn. 

BIG NEWS, I just returned from the Southeast divisional challenge and have a WIN! 37 seconds over 2nd place and no protests. It was actually well liked and accepted as the new standard for Mod class. Except for roosting 6 cones it did very well. Bigger mud flaps? I will not get away with that sort of thing at the Nationals. New O2J trans and bed cover will be done before the nationals.


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## Three Wood (Nov 29, 2008)

Mud flaps also hit cones too.

Hope to see you at Nationals again. RX-7 is dead for now, angling to get into something else. And it's only a month away!


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## Jason4 (Sep 15, 2001)

Congrats on the win! :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

UPDATE. Mud flap extensions added and dust control still a big issue. The hole in the bed is allowing it to suck up a lot of dust from under the truck. So a custom tonneau cover was made up. That helped but not enough so finally a rear window from plaxi is in also. In the pic it's hard to pick out as its new and CLEAN. Next event is the National Championship on Aug 8-9. This is the BIG one. Fast and clean are required to win this one. Some excellent competition that will not allow for errors.


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## DanielSL (Feb 9, 2016)

Any updates for the last 7 months? How did you do at Nationals? I am now building Mk. 4 GTi for Rallycross, and using your thread as inspiration.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

The whole thing has been reliable after the build. A few reinforcements and that's about it. It won regional and divisional but at the nationals I did poorly. Rain changed the whole game for everyone. The run order drawing pretty much determined your chances. The favored Honda got the best draw and just ran off with it. I was at the bad end of that. I have a plan for this year however.......Ha. Meanwhile some tweaking and lots of seat time. I'll be running around the south with it all year and at the Eastern states divisional in June up in MA. It did make it into Grassroots Motorsports. Might again this year, I'll be working it hard to gain some points.


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## DanielSL (Feb 9, 2016)

Leon;

If you don't mind me asking, what tires are you using. On the Mark 4, I am going to try to get away with 15" wheels to clear the brakes, and then run some 195/65 tires from Rally.Build. The retreads they bring over from europe. I was also planning on running their Indy retreads in 17" for tarmac/gravel. But for the beginning, while figuring it out, and learning; I was thinking that the Firestone Winterforce would be a good option. Here in Central Florida, with the sugar sand, they seem very popular in Prepared and Modified. Thanks.


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## Dynatorch (Dec 15, 2014)

Well I have been out of contact for a while. A lot of races with the caddy now. It's been reliable and durable. I have neat it through some rough courses and taken some hard hits. The IRS rear has done a lot to keep it "grounded to the ground"  It's not really faster than the old Golf but it is more stable. A pickup does love to suck up dust more than any car I have ever had. The roof vent was a huge help by putting positive pressure into the cab. I still run the plexi side windows in dust to keep it better inside. I removed the front sway bar and I think it's improved. Definitely allows the inside wheel to get some grip in the turns. I use different tires for surface conditions. My old Yokohama A035 are a basic do-all tire for dry conditions. For Mud I have been using a set of Silverstone mud tires. Very good but recently I got a set of soft Indy Sports from Germany (remolds) for grass and mud. I think they may be better for mud and maybe even gravel. A set of D-mack gravels for very dry and hard conditions. Then a pair of WRC Pirelli ice studded for raising hell. Man they are fantastic. Like R-comps for dirt. I also mix front and rear depending on conditions. The rest has remained the same with minor repairs and it will be getting more at the East Coast Challenge in July. It did win the Dixie Challenge 2 weeks ago. I am hoping for a better result at the Nat's this year depending on weather and run order. Last year run order was extremely important. Time to tighten up some bolts before the next local event on the 25th.


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## DanielSL (Feb 9, 2016)

Leon;

Thanks for the tire info. After much research, I think I'll be running the Rally.Build Indy tires in 17" for tarmac, and DMack G2H for the everyday normal sand and dirt. That leaves just figuring out a good set for the mud. 

I think I will be using Kirk for building me a rollcage, and then having a local shop do the welding in. Do you have any feedback on the work they did for you?

I hope you kicked butt at the regionals this last weekend!


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