# 1,8 8v 112 hp



## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

Hi!
I'm getting this engine in my 90 hp 1,8 mk2. I know the 16v has more power but I've always loved how reliable the 8v is, and the low range power that it has.
Planned mods:
Headers, exhaust
Ported head
Cam
Cold air intake
I won't do anything more with the engine. What type of hp increase can I see from this mods? 20 + hp?


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## sriracha (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (Bojje)*

i don't know, but i'm looking to do the same exact setup for my caddy...just a simple, mildly modded 8v that runs strong.
i will keep my eye on this thread, for more input.


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## young dub (Oct 23, 2008)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (sriracha)*

get a mean exhaust usually the louder it is the more open it is.
with the headers and that exhaust you will lose bottom end torque but gain quite a bit of top end speed. the intake is barely noticeable but go for it and with a cam and porting it you shud gain and easy 15 to 20 hp alone but the degree should defenetly be a 276 otherwise your wasting your money.


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## snowfox (Apr 4, 2002)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (Bojje)*

I'm guessing a bit here, but if your 1.8 is 90(crank)hp, it one of the lower compression units. ~9-9.5:1CR? That'll cost you a little bit in the power department. I see you're in Sweden - what fuel system do you have?
For what you'll spend on GOOD head porting to make this dream a reality, you could probably pick up and swap in an early ABA 2L bottom end. Good exhaust, a simple match port on the head, stock cam from a MkII GTI/GLI (8V), and a decent tune and you'll be there or better with better reliability than trying to do it on the 1.8 with a big cam... Just my $0.02. Did you even get the ABA's in Sweden?


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## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

No, no ABA's in sweden. The current engine is a 90 hp - but I'm planning on getting the GTI engine 112 hp (monojetronic) and get all the above mods done.


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## snowfox (Apr 4, 2002)

*Re: (Bojje)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bojje* »_... the GTI engine 112 hp (monojetronic) and get all the above mods done.

We didn't get the monojetronic system in the States, so I can't help you there - sorry! If the GTI engine is pulling 112hp on monojet, it has got to be 10+:1 CR, though. I know that (good) head porting and a beefier cam with good exhaust flow will take you a long way toward your +20 goal. I just don't know what the fueling limits of your injection system are... You'll get more air in and out of the motor with the mods you're suggesting, but without the appropriate amount of fuel, it's all for nought. Can you convert to a multi point injection system? CIS(-E) or Digifant or after market stand alone?


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## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (snowfox)*

Dude, I was wrong. The monojet is on the 90 hp. The GTI never came with the monojet.
CSI and Digifant on these engines! I guess it's better


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## iamdagerman (Feb 19, 2006)

*Re: (Bojje)*

Dude the lowest octane they have in German is 97


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## snowfox (Apr 4, 2002)

*Re: (iamdagerman)*

Not completely true, but don't be deceived by the numbers they list... 
From our friends at Wiki: (Bold emphasis is mine)
"[edit] Measurement methods
The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON). RON is determined by running the fuel in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing the results with those for mixtures of iso-octane and n-heptane.
There is another type of octane rating, called Motor Octane Number (MON) or the aviation lean octane rating, which is a better measure of how the fuel behaves when under load. MON testing uses a similar test engine to that used in RON testing, but with a preheated fuel mixture, a higher engine speed, and variable ignition timing to further stress the fuel's knock resistance. Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON. Normally fuel specifications require both a minimum RON and a minimum MON.
In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane rating, shown on the pump, is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above*, the octane shown in the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, is 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and some even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON)*.


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## snowfox (Apr 4, 2002)

*Re: (Bojje)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bojje* »_CSI and Digifant on these engines! I guess it's better









I'm partial to the CIS, but that's just me.







Either way, I suspect that either one is an improvement over the single point fueling. You may need to swap the entire management system over with the motor to realize all the gains of this engine swap.


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## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (snowfox)*

Oh yeah, I'm getting a donor car so don't worry


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## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

I have some parts to pick up from a 1,6td. Turbo, manifold, oilpan and so on. This could definitely be a better choice than tuning it the NA way. 0,4-0,5 bar would be enough, and as I understand the CIS can handle that power without any adjustments!


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## snowfox (Apr 4, 2002)

*Re: (Bojje)*

Yeah, CIS should take care of you just fine with a low pressure turbo set-up. My understanding is that, when properly tuned, the VW CIS system is good for about 200hp on the 1.8's. Some will probably reccommend using the CIS unit from a Volvo 240 Turbo, but I'm getting out of my depth when it comes to these types of changes... If you haven't checked them out yet, you will probably find the Vortex "Forced Induction" and "Hybrid Swap" technical forums to be quite valuable information sources.
Good luck and keep us posted! Nothing beats a good build-up thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Bojje (Jul 31, 2007)

*Re: (snowfox)*

It will def. be a budget build, but who says budget builds can't be well done?








The car's a Fire & Ice (special modell with different seats, G60 arches and so on). Currently rebuilding my BBS RS007 with 3" lips for the rears and 2" for the fronts.
Since I'm a biker I don't need that much power, already have a ZX7R and a Hornet 600 if I want constant adrenaline rushes... nothing lives up to bikes when it comes to that. I'm just after a car with okay power, I don't need more power than 150-160 hp (could get a G60 but they cost too much if you ask me!).
I'll post a thread soon.
As for the wheels, they look like this (the centres are painted by the previous owner... I'll colour match them with my car):
The car:








The wheels with 3" lips:










_Modified by Bojje at 11:39 AM 12-10-2008_


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## Rdoppie (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (Bojje)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bojje* »_Hi!
Planned mods:
Headers, exhaust http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Ported head http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
Cam http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Cold air intake http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I won't do anything more with the engine. What type of hp increase can I see from this mods? 20 + hp?

depends on how much money you throw @ the package
the more money you Spend, the more power you can get!
Have you fixed the rest of the car yet?
Suspension
Brakes
Gearbox
Wheel Bearings


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## wilburisthecoolest (Jan 13, 2008)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (Rdoppie)*

I have 113 whp, so that's around 130 at the crank.
Its a 1.8 with a webber carb swap, TT 276 cam, pacesetter headers, and exhaust. Completely stock head.
How it sounds...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v..._page 
On the dyno with the old exhaust...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v..._page 
And it was cheap. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sriracha (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (wilburisthecoolest)*


_Quote, originally posted by *wilburisthecoolest* »_
How it sounds...
And it was cheap. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









what kind of exhaust do you have on that thing?


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## wilburisthecoolest (Jan 13, 2008)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (sriracha)*

Its a cheap flow master knock off. Called the full bore. Its only $45 bucks.
On the downside, I blew a baffle out on the dyno so it rattles when its cold, and at some odd rpms.


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## kaputsport (Jun 28, 2002)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (wilburisthecoolest)*

Here is the ideal setup for you. It will be cheap and easy to put together.
10:1 C/R block from an 8v GTI.
Use the big valve head from it as well.
4-2-1 header
cat back exhaust
Digi chip
BMW 535i AFM
Conical intake
Knock sensor spacer
Water wetter to keep the Blue CTS colder
SUSPENSION!!!!!
Make sure it is running right.
And you will be at 120 easy.
If you can afford a port and polish, do so.
Add a windage tray, short shifter and a great set of wheels and tires...

Should be a fun car.


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## sriracha (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (kaputsport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kaputsport* »_Here is the ideal setup for you. It will be cheap and easy to put together.
10:1 C/R block from an 8v GTI.
Use the big valve head from it as well.
4-2-1 header
cat back exhaust
...
Should be a fun car.


BAM!!!
that is more or less what i plan on doing....except i plan on running it on CIS and splicing in the knock sensor.
is there a big difference between a 4-2-vw-manifold-vwdual-downpipe and a 4-2-1 header?


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## wilburisthecoolest (Jan 13, 2008)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (sriracha)*

The header is better. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sriracha (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (kaputsport)*


_Quote, originally posted by *kaputsport* »_
BMW 535i AFM
Knock sensor spacer
Water wetter to keep the Blue CTS colder



can you expand on these three ideas? never heard of the BMW 535i AFM or Water wetter ideas...
as for the knock sensor spacer....is that different than splicing in a knock sensor ecu and distributor? easier/cheaper?


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## Puremutt (Oct 4, 2008)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (sriracha)*

what about a chip


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## Puremutt (Oct 4, 2008)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (wilburisthecoolest)*

huge difference 4-2-1=better low end torque


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## D.E (Sep 21, 2007)

We dont have ABA in Sweden but we do have the 2E. It is like an ABA only with a counterflow head. We also have the Audi 3E.
Vi har inte ABA-motorn i Sverige men vi har 2E-motorn, en ABA fast med insug och avgas på samma sida toppen. Vi har också 3E, som sitter i Audi 80 och Audi 100 2,0. Leta i Toledo 2,0, Passat GL 2,0 eller Golf mk3 GTI 8v efter 2E-blocket.


_Modified by D.E at 11:11 AM 12-20-2008_


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## kaputsport (Jun 28, 2002)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (sriracha)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sriracha* »_

can you expand on these three ideas? never heard of the BMW 535i AFM or Water wetter ideas...
as for the knock sensor spacer....is that different than splicing in a knock sensor ecu and distributor? easier/cheaper?

If you are running Digifant II, the AFM is the flapper box mounted to your air box. The 535i BMW unit is huge in comparison.
The water wetter just makes the coolant colder, and thus allows more aggressive timing from your ignition. The Blue Coolant Tempurature sensor is the culpret. You need to find a way to make it cooler, so use redline water wetter...


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## LaneGTI8V (Jan 31, 2006)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (Puremutt)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Puremutt* »_huge difference 4-2-1=better low end torque

I dunno but I would get the TT 4-1 Race, if peak power is your concern, also I doubt you'd lose any practical, usable TQ....and i'm sure peak tq would be pretty significantly increased.


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## sriracha (Aug 6, 2007)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (LaneGTI8V)*

hmmm...the 4-2-1 headers might have to wait, for me. i'm trying to keep this on a tight budget. but my truck has the dual outlet manifold and downpipe already, so i will just use that.
so far, i have collected a 10:1 RV block, a freshly rebuilt big valve head, a lightly used autotech 270 cam and some misc. knock sensor parts. should be a fun, reliable little engine. $300 invested so far...
purchases i plan on making include a 2" exhaust, new gaskets, a new water pump and clutch. i plan on getting the flywheel resurfaced as well.


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## vwbeaner (Jun 4, 2007)

*Re: 1,8 8v 112 hp (Bojje)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Bojje* »_Planned mods:
Headers, exhaust
Ported head
Cam
Cold air intake


For my 8v digi 2
I have a Eurosport header
polished/ported head
Autotech 270 cam w/adjustable cam gear
no cold air intake-These are debatable for power gain (save your money)
The power is good and noticable, I moved the cam gear to 3*advanced (to move the power lower in the power band). Any higher and I don't feel the power (i drive like a sally because I don't want to break anything) and it pulls hard up until 5k rpm. I don't know what I have for power but it is not slow. And my exhaust is loud and open, so probably not too restrictive. I plan on going with a Jetex exhaust soon. But the car feels pretty good.


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