# ?Dropping the Oil Pan?



## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

I have a 2002 V6 2.8L 30 Valve with 67k miles that WAS burning oil. I used an additive with my last oil change that has substanially stopped the burning of the oil. It went from a quart between oil changes, to nothing so far. I am around the 2k mark since the additive was used and haven't seen a drop yet. I did, however, notice the filler cap had some gunk on it, as well as down in the engine. I wanted to drop my oil pan and clean it out really good the next time I changed the oil.
I just flushed the tranny and replaced the filter; so, I'm trying to do the same concept, but with the engine. Is the gasket readily available? I usually shop at Blauparts, but found no such gasket. What kind of solution is recommended to thoroughly clean the gunk out? I bought the car with 62k miles and would like to keep it a while...No searches bring up any gaskets that seem compatible. Also, a lot of OEM silicone sealants are recommended.
Thanks!


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: ?Dropping the Oil Pan? (webster426)*


_Quote, originally posted by *webster426* »_I have a 2002 V6 2.8L 30 Valve


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

2.8L V6 Passat........happy J/O? thanks for no help


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (webster426)*

30 valves!?!?? What engine is this? Is it a VR (which is only a 24 V) or a regular V block with a 5 valve per. head, which I didn't know they put in a Passat. I just had no idea!
J/O means what, if it's an insult I don't get it!


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## CrazySlovak (Jul 20, 2008)

i just got my oil pan gasket at napa autoparts, they had to order it for next day but thats where i found mine, try that


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: (CrazySlovak)*

Buddy of mine said to buy a gasket roll at Autozone or something and make it myself. Passat world recommended the following:
Silicon sealant D 404 A2 
Couldnt find it anywhere so.......I would think a gasket would be easier and better then messing with silcone. Also runs the risk of possible contamination, screen clogging, and the obvious 24hr cure time.


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

*Re: (webster426)*

Silicone is the sealant for most everything on a VR.......if done right, clogging isn't even a remote issue............last time I bought one it was almost $40 a tube at the dealer but will do a whole engine twice or probably more!


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

so the Silicon sealant D 404 A2 is correct?
and it IS a 30V....where are you getting 24 from? The only 24V cars I have seen are the TDI's......below are specs for MY car
2.8 30v V6 
Petrol 
2.8 L (2771 cc, 169 cu in) 
193 PS (190 hp/142 kW) @6000 rpm 
280 N·m (207 lb·ft) @3200 rpm 
238 km/h (148 mph) 
2000–2005


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## meb58 (Jun 22, 2009)

I was under the impression that only the 4 cyl diesel came with a 5 valve head. That makes changing the timing belt on those 20V and 30V heads very important!
Yup...1998 - 2005 2.8 liter all have 30 valve motors.


_Modified by meb58 at 12:08 PM 6-24-2009_


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: (meb58)*

What is recommended frequency for changing of the TB anyway. I was thinking about jumping in head first with my 67k miles. Also, my piston rings need replacement! But i was told i might want to pass that on to a trained professional.....I amm currently using Lucas additive with my oil changes for my burning oil problem (Only about a quart per 5k miles).









































































































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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: (gehr)*

quoted.........
Early V-type engines are a single overhead cam design with two valves per cylinder. Later model engines have five valves per cylinder.


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## meb58 (Jun 22, 2009)

webster426,
Did you purchase this car new? The oil burning/consumption points to a lot of wear for an engine with such low mileage...and ring damage...did someone hammer this car when it was cold, or low on oil?


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

Meb58
I bought the car used from a dealership. The car had one owner and has never been in an accident. It had low miles and was/is in phenominal physical condition. Even the leather seats are in great condition....all said and done, I bought the care for $11800 and it runs great.
The first time I got the oil changed the tech told me the fluid was a low and could potentially be burning oil. I had just moved to California so I was in the process of moving into our house; didn't have much time to work on my cars. I did smell the oil from the tech, but did not notice and symptoms of burning oil (i.e black in color, smelling burnt).
The 2nd oil change, I did myself. There was clearly signs of burnt oil on the filler cap, and in the valve cover. Instantly I was like "fuuuuudge! MY pistons rings!!!" So............
I used a bottle of engine flush, ran the car for 5 minutes as required, and topped her off with oil. This time, I used a Lucas Oil Additive to see if it would help at all. I dont know the exact number, but as of now, I am over 1,500 miles since the change, and things are looking pretty good. I know they say that anything over a quart added per oil change is when things are looking pretty grim.
As a precaution, I really wanted to drop the oil pan and give everything a good cleaning. Probably right after using another engine flush fluid.......now I am just inquiring about the gasket or silicone because I still haven't gotten a solid answer I feel confortable with.


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## meb58 (Jun 22, 2009)

I am no expert, but why not try a high detergent oil and change the oil with filter every 1,500 miles for the next few intervals? 
Perhaps the gunk and sludge is burning...perhaps the engine isn't burning all that much oil as part of its normal operation. 
I recently bought a car for my son, my previous daily driver that had 185,000 miles on it - very well maintained miles. the new owner did not change the oil for 15,000 miles or so and really beat on the car. When I opened the oil filler cap and looked into the engine - the exhaust cam is visible - the nasty coating almost made me throw up. So we used M1 5W30 and changed the oil every 1,000 miles...I actually drove the car to work to put some consistent light mileage on the car. After four such changes all of the internals that can be seen from the oil fill cap are bright and shiny...no engine flush.
This car began to use oil at about 150k miles but there never was nor is there any sign of blue smoke upon start up or when my son decides to bury the tach...which I would rather he didn't do.
If you drop the oil pan you might find an oil pump that is all gunked up as well...if the upper half of the engine isn't getting oil that could point to at least part of the problem; valve gear beat up oil.


_Modified by meb58 at 12:10 PM 6-25-2009_


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

i have been doing exactly that actually. How do you know which oils have high levels of detergent? My civic takes 5w/20 or 5w/30 and the passat take 5w/30 and 5w/40. Naturally I use 5w/30 synth (Mobil 1) for both vehicles. I have changed oil twice in the 6k miles I have put on it so....I usually run them to 5k between changes with the synthetic oil. What is your recommendation for the silicone for the oil pan anyway?


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## meb58 (Jun 22, 2009)

...silicone...you can research Permatex. This is an 'Ultra silicone' made ofr oil pan gaskets etc. 
M1 is a high detergent oil...perhaps three complete changes at 1,000 - 1,500 intervals will speed up the cleaning process...but the type of driving may or may not help. Light duty highway mileage, I find, is best.


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## webster426 (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: (meb58)*

ty buddy!







i am going to drop the pan next weekend and start my 1k-1.5k changes.....


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## VWBugman00 (Mar 17, 2009)

Permatex 34310 The Right Stuff for Imports should be good for your oil pan as well, if you haven't done it yet. It comes out like cheez whiz, and its supposed to be really good stuff, thats easy to apply.


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