# Jetta 2007 2.5l will not start



## Zurique (Feb 15, 2008)

Hey everybody, need your help. I have a 2007 VW Jetta 2.5l BGP engine w/ 147k miles on it. Tuesday I was drove to the local grocery store. When I returned to my car and turned the ignition on my car started for like 3 seconds and died. I tried again and same result; would turn and start but would die within 2 seconds. So I did my research and learned that my fuel pump was not making that "buzzing" noise when I turn my key to on-position. So I decided to replace my fuel pump. I ordered a new pump from the dealership, which arrived this morning, and installed it with no problems (20 minutes). Tried my car and same thing happened; would start but die right after. Talked to a technician at the dealership and he asked how long since I had replaced the fuel filter (never did; still had the original one with 147k miles on it). After our conversation, he recommended replacing the fuel filter and so I did (5 minutes). 

However, after new fuel pump and gas filter, my car still wouldn’t stay on, and worse; after trying for like twenty minutes my engine now just tries to turn but never turns on, while making a tacking noise (and the instrument lights blink very fast like there is not enough voltage or something). 

Any suggestions guys? I know is a lengthy post and I thank you for reading it.

I am out of ideas of what to do now.

PS. I don't have a VAG, but before this happened, my engine light was not on.


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## le0n (Jun 12, 2013)

Get your battery tested. While you have it out, inspect your battery cables. Mainly, check your negative cable for corrosion or cracked insulation.


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## pazan001 (Feb 18, 2013)

Zurique said:


> However, after new fuel pump and gas filter, my car still wouldn’t stay on, and worse; after trying for like twenty minutes my engine now just tries to turn but never turns on, while making a tacking noise (and the instrument lights blink very fast like there is not enough voltage or something).


Sound like what happens when your battery dies  
If you tried so many times and the car didn't turn on... well the battery is probably dead. Charge it.

You never mentioned if you hear the fuel pump prep or not after the new pump was in.... I think you have it to prep it a couple of times before starting (when replacing a pump) (not too sure on this either)


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## afawal2012 (Jan 9, 2013)

There are several threads about a bad N80 purge valve as well. Read those posts as well.


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## bigcatlove (Jun 9, 2014)

Mine won't start and I'm getting a camshaft sensor code. The code didn't pop up until they tested my battery at advanced. Then they ran a diagnostic an it threw up that code.


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## hsproyaya (Jan 4, 2012)

When you replaced the filter, did you make sure the feed and return lines were put in the correct place?


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## Zurique (Feb 15, 2008)

*Sorry for the late feedback guys*

I apologize for my delayed response, and thank you for your feedback folks. So on 5/30/2014, after I installed a new fuel pump and fuel filter, my car still would not start. I kept trying to fire the engine (too many times) and consequently I drained my battery. On that night, I jumped my battery using my wife's car, and it started right up. The car has been running in great condition since, and when I open the driver's door, my fuel pump immediately primes the line. 

I also have some codes that I am working on to eliminate now, since my car is due for inspection here in NJ. First, I switched my GIAC software back to stock mode (ugh, did not think my car could be any weaker than before, but now it feels like a corolla). Second, I removed my USP test pipe, and installed my factory catalytic converter pipe back on (from manifold to catback; catback is AWE tuning). Third, I uninstalled my VF engineering cold air intake (and boy my cone filter was dirty), and installed the regular air box that runs through the engine cover (with new air filter). I also installed a temperature sensor that goes before the MAF, and a new MAF. As for the MAF, I had already cleaned it couple times using MAF cleaner from CRC, and since my car has now 150k, I decided to replace it. Unfortunately, ECS sold me a shot unit (my car would not even start with the first MAF they sent me). After contacting them, they agreed on replacing it, and they expedited everything, return and new shipment (GREAT customer service); and the new unit works great. I also replaced the N80 valve. Before I did this swap/replacing parts, I had too codes: P0068 and P0455 (and of course, the annoying engine light on my dash). Replacing the MAF sensor did not get rid of the P0068, but replacing the N80 valve did. Now I have left the P0455 (not sure what is causing it but any advice would be appreciated). I will update you guys soon as to what may be causing the P0455, assuming I can find it. 

One last note guys; replace your fuel filter regularly. I new it was important to maintain it, but I never thought that it would damage my fuel pump. $20 dollars per year could have saved me a lot (my fuel pump was over $300). Stay safe folks.


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## ECS Tuning (Oct 2, 2006)

Sorry for any inconvenience caused - Glad everything is good now, PM me if you need anything else!


Andy


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