# mkV rear setup questions.



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

Planning on going with an Air House 2 set, and I'm wondering what brackets are easier to install. I know S10 cups will work with some modification but I'd rather keep it as close to straight bolt on/off as possible. Bagriders has the Dorbitz kit, and there's also the Baack2Basics bracket kit...so far those are the two Iknow of. Any other bolt-on solutions? Which of the two is better?


----------



## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

i say go with these, it will take you to the ground.
http://www.newmaticsinc.com/product_p/1351.htm
the only thing you have to do is cutting top spring perch out, its not big deal to weld it back up when needed. anybody could do it quick with couple of spot welds.
just bolt the bags to the brackets like in the picture and drop them in. no welding needed.
very affordable and reliable.
[URL=http://img34.imageshack.us/i/i...4.imageshack.us/img34/7407/img7815r.jpg[/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL]
[URL=http://img10.imageshack.us/i/i...0.imageshack.us/img10/5986/img7814k.jpg[/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL] 
bolt it a little bit off center so there is room between bag and lower shock bolt.
[URL=http://img6.imageshack.us/i/im...g6.imageshack.us/img6/7608/img5727m.jpg[/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL]


----------



## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

I'd go with Drews(dorbtiz) cups. I bought the Baak2basics and had to cut them, then have a buddy remake the upper cup. I'd also look into Slam specialty bags RE-5. They don't balloon out, so you don't have to offest the bag or worry about it rubbing on the shock bolt.


----------



## SSRmark5 (Apr 14, 2010)

I also suggest the dorbritz d-cups with re5s that's what I have


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

Thanks for the feedback :thumbup:

Guys with the Dorbitz brackets, are they a straight install without grinding or cutting? I'm set on the Air House 2's...getting them ever so slightly used for a nice deal. Is clearance really an issue with them?


----------



## Still Fantana (Jul 16, 2008)

i also vote the D cups from Dorbritz.

Only thing needed is to get your 90 degree fitting and mark it so you can drill a hole for the air line.:beer::beer:


----------



## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

i didn't like dorbitz cups for a reason that they don't let you go low without cutting the top perch witch in my opinion defeats the purpose on buying bolt in cups in the first place. with dorbitz cups mk5 is sitting 1" higher then with regular s10 cups. in my opinion whole purpose to install airride is to make it go as low as possible ,unfortunately bolt in stuff doesn't let you do that.


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)




----------



## Turbonix (Oct 2, 2008)

i got another question about the rear setup, do you have to remove the rear sway bars for the instal or do they stay on the car for th finished product?


----------



## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

Rat4Life said:


> unfortunately bolt in stuff doesn't let you do that.


i meant bolt in brackets for ah2 or ss5 that cost twice as much as regular s10 brackets and don't go low.
and if we talking about complete bolt in bags, from what i see bagyards are the only ones that will get you low without any modifications as well as sky high. as you could see in the picture of that jetta.



Turbonix said:


> i got another question about the rear setup, do you have to remove the rear sway bars for the install or do they stay on the car for the finished product?


rear sway stays in the car,no interference there.


----------



## SSRmark5 (Apr 14, 2010)

Where do you get the s10 brackets?


----------



## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

SSRmark5 said:


> Where do you get the s10 brackets?


right here
quantity 1 
they come as a pair for $40 


http://www.newmaticsinc.com/product_p/1351.htm


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

Rat4Life said:


> i meant bolt in brackets for ah2 or ss5 that cost twice as much as regular s10 brackets and don't go low.
> and if we talking about complete bolt in bags, from what i see bagyards are the only ones that will get you low without any modifications as well as sky high. as you could see in the picture of that jetta.


How hard is it to adapt S10 cups/what kind of work is needed? Say, for example, on the ones from Newmatics you posted? I'm assming you have to cut the top spring perches like the ones posted up there^^. I was trying to avoid that...are there any S10 cups that dont require cutting up the car?


----------



## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

RobbDizzle said:


> How hard is it to adapt S10 cups/what kind of work is needed? Say, for example, on the ones from Newmatics you posted? I'm assming you have to cut the top spring perches like the ones posted up there^^. I was trying to avoid that...are there any S10 cups that dont require cutting up the car?


no unfortunately with s10 brackets you only use it on the bottom to hold the bag inside control arm,the top part is just sitting flush with the body after removing top spring perch/nipple . not much work needed there to mount it up. just bolt it little bit off center bag to the bracket to have some space between bag and bolt that holds shock in place. best way to avoid cutting top nipple and still go low is buying bagyard rears.
[URL=http://img6.imageshack.us/i/im...g6.imageshack.us/img6/4616/img5717v.jpg[/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL]
this is mk4,but mk5 uses identical setup for the rear from bagyards , so basically your top spring perch is sitting inside of a cnc machined top bracket,and lets you go that extra inch lower.
[URL=http://img256.imageshack.us/i/...imageshack.us/img256/1728/dscf0051u.jpg[/IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL]


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

The extra inch worth it.


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

Rat4Life said:


> no unfortunately with s10 brackets you only use it on the bottom to hold the bag inside control arm,the top part is just sitting flush with the body after removing top spring perch/nipple . not much work needed there to mount it up. just bolt it little bit off center bag to the bracket to have some space between bag and bolt that holds shock in place. best way to avoid cutting top nipple and still go low is buying bagyard rears.
> 
> this is mk4,but mk5 uses identical setup for the rear from bagyards , so basically your top spring perch is sitting inside of a cnc machined top bracket,and lets you go that extra inch lower.


Awesome info. I guess I'm going to have to cut that nipple off...hopefully it's not that hard to put back in.


----------



## harley06 (Feb 28, 2007)

i wouldn't cut the nipple completely off..


----------



## markfif (Oct 25, 2007)

i wouldn't touch the nipple at all man. my old rear setup was FK rear shocks with air house 1 bags and s10 brackets. the bottom bag mount had a lot cut off so the bag sat a tad lower then flush with the lower control arm. and i had the top mount on but cut down to the height of what the nipple was so the brackets touched the body of the car with no gap between the nipple and top of the bag. i would recommend just ordering some D-cups since all the cutting is done for you. just drill the hole in the bottom bracket for your line to run through and you are good to go. do you really need to get all the reverse rake as possible lol. leave the nipple in because when you cut it out you have to weld it back in. and hope those welds are good because if not the spring can move at that point.

in this pic you can see i am tucking ~1" of RIM. 18" with 225/40 tires. and i repeat, the nipple was still in for these pics. my new setup will still have the nipple in as well...


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

markfif said:


> i wouldn't touch the nipple at all man. my old rear setup was FK rear shocks with air house 1 bags and s10 brackets. the bottom bag mount had a lot cut off so the bag sat a tad lower then flush with the lower control arm. and i had the top mount on but cut down to the height of what the nipple was so the brackets touched the body of the car with no gap between the nipple and top of the bag. i would recommend just ordering some D-cups since all the cutting is done for you. just drill the hole in the bottom bracket for your line to run through and you are good to go. do you really need to get all the reverse rake as possible lol. leave the nipple in because when you cut it out you have to weld it back in. and hope those welds are good because if not the spring can move at that point.
> 
> in this pic you can see i am tucking ~1" of RIM. 18" with 225/40 tires. and i repeat, the nipple was still in for these pics. my new setup will still have the nipple in as well...


That sounds promising...I'd rather be cutting up a bracket/cup than the car itself if I need to. So you're saying the Dorbitz d-cups are the best way to go...will that get me anywhere close to how your old setup sat in the rear (i.e., in the pic?)


----------



## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

you can also cut off some off the nipple and still have enough there for when you decide to sell the car and go back to stock.



if you get get dorbritz d cups and air house bags you'll get stupid low. tucking 18's most likely.


----------



## markfif (Oct 25, 2007)

D-cups coupled with air house 1 bags will get you as low as in the pic. the air house 1 bag is .5" thinner compressed when compared to the air house 2 bag also so that helps with the low. and when i was air'd up i still had like 3-4 finger gap.


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

fasttt600 said:


> if you get get dorbritz d cups and air house bags you'll get stupid low. tucking 18's most likely.





markfif said:


> D-cups coupled with air house 1 bags will get you as low as in the pic. the air house 1 bag is .5" thinner compressed when compared to the air house 2 bag also so that helps with the low. and when i was air'd up i still had like 3-4 finger gap.


This is what I want to hear. Maybe I'll consider the Air House 1's then....any price difference between the 1 and the 2?


----------



## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

No price difference :thumbup:


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> No price difference :thumbup:



Nice...I think this is coming together. If I can't scrape the funds together for a bolt-in set (which I likely won't be able to) I'm pretty sure I'm going with Air House 1's and D-cups. Thanks a ton guys :beer:


EDIT: question guys. The Air House 1 is listed as 2" compressed and 7" extended...the Air House 2 is listed as 2" compressed and 8.5" extended...it looks like they have the same compressed height. Will the Air House 1's really go lower aired out?


----------



## markfif (Oct 25, 2007)

hmm, last i looked at the stats the air house 1's had a lower compression height. if you put the two next too each other you can see the difference in height. but since there is no interior collapsible structure (that i know of), the only thing that should stop the bags when compressing are the brackets touching i assume. you will be happy with the lower in either case man :thumbup:.


----------



## RobbDizzle (Aug 22, 2007)

Awesome thanks. Everyone in this thread has been super helpful. :beer: for everyone


----------

