# ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

Got myself an ABA block (iceman666) and will be running this with a G60 head and a G-Lader. I was trying to figure out every part i need and what i need to modify to make this work. I'm going to try to post part #s and pics of the process for anyone wanting to do the same.
PROS:

_Quote, originally posted by *Geoff Rood* »_11% hp/tq increase based on a displacement bump from 1.8 to 2L


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_ABA has better stroke rod ratio.


PROBLEMS: 
*1:*
_Quote, originally posted by *Pigsdofly* »_ABA block with stock G60 ( pg ) head, about 10.6 to 1 ( too damn high )

Some options:
a) Stacking head gaskets.
b) BBM 2.0L Low Compression Metal Head Gasket
c) BBM Low Compression Forged Pistons
*2:* No oil return hole for the charger
Possible Solutions:

a) Drill a hole in the block.

_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_ …There is a threaded boss ready to go for a fitting (it is there on the ABA and I am pretty sure it is there on the 9a as well). You just need to drill the blind hole into the crank case. if you look at the last picture JustMike posted, you will see the threaded boss on the G60 that I am referring to Directly between the oil dipstick and the Oil Cooler. You can see the charger return host connected to it. That same boss should be there on your block…










b) Tap the oil pan.

_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_…-4 is fine as the stock return line is ~ 1/4"…
…Either way, any where you want to make the return should be fine, but it "should" be above the oil level in the pan…


[c]) Tap the block off plate if you're *not* using the rear g-charger bracket (ie. lysholm, eaton, turbo, etc?) as it would be in the way, i believe.








*3:*
_Quote, originally posted by *REPOMAN* »_As for the Distributor if you are using the Digifant 
ECU then just swap the 2.0l dist. gear on to the g60
dist. and use the g60 dist. you will need the
adapter ring for the g60 dist. so it fits in the block
then just plug it in and go. 

Solutions:
If you have a digifant distributor and an aba dist gear
Bushing to Adapt Early Distributor to 2.0L Block
If you need the gear also
2.0 Distributor Bushing and Gear Kit for ABA engine swaps 
edit: the gear supplied did not work for me. see page 12.
Another option, you can use the audi 3A dizzy: 
_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_3a is a direct swap as far as the distributor.
I know cause I have one =-)

If you want to run the 1.8 intermediate shaft with the stock gear on the dist. you will still need the adapter bushing above and you'll have to modify the shaft. 
from http://www.geocities.com/scirocco_86_ca/

_Quote, originally posted by *http://www.geocities.com/scirocco_86_ca/* »_Here's some other stuff I've recently found more detail on. If you are in a situation where using a 2.0L distributor gear is not practical, it is possible is modify a 1.8L intermediate shaft so that you can run with a 1.8L distributor gear. The gear on the stock gear is too big and too wide to clear the #4 connecting rod journal. The intermediate shaft can be put in a metal turning lathe and the gear narrowed and chamfered to gain the necessary clearance and the eccentric (a relic left over from the old carbureter days) is also removed. 

*4:* Only the early ABA block 93-94(?) has oil squirters.

_Quote, originally posted by *REPOMAN* »_
The 1996 ABA motors do
not come with the oil quarters the PG block has.

Solution:

_Quote, originally posted by *REPOMAN* »_
the machine shop should be able to port the ABA
block for them. new i paid $27 ea for the oil
squarters and $13 for 4 check seat bolts.
I believe the machine shop charged $100 to install.

*5:* 
_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_The pistons on the G60 have ring lands set deep down to protect from detonation, the ABA sit higher and thus are weaker.

Solution:
Forged pistons (see above). i'll try to come up with a list.
Wiseco 9:1: K610M83 (83mm) or K610M835 (83.5mm)
Eurospec 8.5:1  (EFP 107 2008 4V21, i think)
Bahn Brenner 8:1 226107664
Techtonics Tuning 8.7:1 107.827
also, JRC Motorsports (Rodney) has the hookups for custom JE's (not sure if he still does)

*6:* Alternator height difference
Solution:

_Quote, originally posted by *REPOMAN* »_As for the height difference on the alternator bracket that bolts to the head 
Just leave the bottom bolt out

*7:* Rear charger bracket sticks out too far with a block off plate, and won't fit over the oil filer mount
Solutions:
shave the charger bracket the thickness of the block off plate, and notch it to clear oil filter flange








fab your own rear bracket (pics, anyone?)
[issam's handywork:]








----------


PARTS:
ABA Timing Belt - 056 109 119A
ABA Downpipe
Breather Block off Plate
Distributor Bushing and Gear Kit for ABA engine swaps
Knock Sensor/Detonation Sensor; 520mm with Blue Plug Connector 0261231036 
thanks to:
Shawn
Issam
Don
Sam
Jonathan









_Modified by deth_core at 9:09 AM 2-12-2009_

_Modified by deth_core at 9:40 AM 2-12-2009_


_Modified by deth_core at 9:45 AM 2-12-2009_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist (deth_core)*

Answers below in Bold:

_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_Got myself an ABA block (iceman666) and will be running this with a G60 head and a G-Lader. I was trying to figure out every part i need and what i need to modify to make this work. I'm going to try to post part #s and pics of the process for anyone wanting to do the same.
So...
The block is the early ABA block 93-94(?) which came with a forged crank and oil squirters.
The block is also bored and has low compression pistons. 9.0:1
will the compression be too high with a head that's milled 10/1000"?
*You'll be fine. .010 Head shave on the 8v is not that much at all. I am guessing less than 1/4 point. If you are very interested in knowing what the compression will be, then you can calculate it. Check out this thread -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1742309*
I ordered the block off plate and dizzy adapter from TT already.
* If you are running the G60, just know that you will need to shave your rear charger bracket the thickness of the block off plate or the mounts will not line up with the charger*
Also wondering if an aba header will work instead of an aba downpipe/ g60 exhaust manifold.
*AFAIK it should work fine*
And, what did you guys do for an oil return line?
*There is a boss and mount in the same place on the ABA. The only problem is that it is a bind hole and does not enter the crank case. This just needs to be drilled the rest of the way through (very carefully) with a slightly smaller drill bit so you don't screw up the threads. The Pan really needs to be off for this so that metal filings don't enter the crank case.*
TIA
I'll be slowly adding pics and part numbers as time goes on. probably lots more questions.

Some other things:
- ABA Timing Belt
- ABA timing belt guards (lower and metal backing shield)
- ABA Dist Gear on G60 Distributer
- you may need an adj cam gear if your head was shaved and you want your cam timing to be precise.
- Notch rear charger bracket to clear oil filter mount
Also, let me know if you need any misc stuff, ABA down pipe, guards etc. as I have a bunch of spare parts.
Shawn


_Modified by sdezego at 10:22 AM 8-2-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

Thanks for the help.
on the head shave, i did a lot of searching and i think i calculated it out to less than 1/4 point, but i thought i'd make sure.
i have the timing belt, guards, distributor gear.
also have an adjustable cam gear for the retarded timing. people stacking head gaskets would also want one as their timing would be advanced, yah?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

what about the knock sensor? swap the freeze plug out of the pg or get an aba sensor?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

ABA sensor on it's proper block boss. The sensor is usually tuned for the engine. The ecu just interprets the voltage signal. I am not real sure if the G60 one would work fine on the ABA or not, but I would definitely run it on the stock ABA location.
S


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

interesting....
Im doing the same thing right now...
getting my rods shot peened and my pistons milled about 1mm to make up for the compression ratio (along with a BBM low compression 2.0L headgasket) as I was and will be boosting 18-25 psi.
nice thing for me, I dont have to run oil lines =-) I have my AMG lysholm system (sealed oil, no contact)
question I have is what do I do to block off the Crank vent spot where the freeze plug is on the G60, I was gonna swap it over but I dont know. Also the crank vent spot on the ABA (do I have to use the rubber gasket or can I use a paper gasket) I am making another bracket for my lysholm system and it will take that spot to support it.
oh and can I reuse my main bolts or should I buy new ones? they seem pretty darn hard to me...
and a 3A dizzy is a straight swap correct? (no modifying anything?)


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

soooo what should we do about the freeze plug spot? just put a new one in without the mount for the knock sensor...
BTW can we use the Blue sensor from the 2.0L ABA motor? will it work with out digifant I systems?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_soooo what should we do about the freeze plug spot? just put a new one in without the mount for the knock sensor...
BTW can we use the Blue sensor from the 2.0L ABA motor? will it work with out digifant I systems?

- Yep, just a std freeze plug.
- yes that is what I would use. All Knock sensors output 0-5v.
>Edited after verifying the part number>
As fas as the Gasket for the Breather, You can just use a paper gasket, but, the gasket from the 16v PL is the correct one. 
The part number is: are 027 103 771D 
I was going to order them both thinking at least one would work. I didn't want to buy a bunch of gasket material to make just one gasket and had a hard time finding some stuff locally thin enough for my liking.
Shawn


_Modified by sdezego at 8:50 AM 9-17-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
pics and stuff in a couple days.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ditto, but will someone please tell me where to get 42mm intake and 35mm exhaust valves for my G60 head, without paying techtonics 50% markup price?
they are on eurospecsport.com's website for 18.25 each and I have yet to find a dealer that even carries them. techtonics wants 27 for each valve, thats 80 dollars Im losing!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

http://www.usrallyteam.com/valvetrain.html


----------



## tedthebellhopp (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist (deth_core)*

Awesome thread, i'm gathering parts to do this myself. please post soem pics when you get some http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

dude those valves are more than 27 each! I said [email protected]!!!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

oh oops. i knew they had em but didn't look at the price.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

well I decided on 41mm because 42mm requires new seats that have to be fitted to the head, rather have someone else do that plus I dont have the cash to buy new seats along with everything else I have to buy.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*

are you changing the guides and going with 7mm stems? I would as you can get even better flow.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yes, I will post a picture of my porting job too =-)


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

no time to work on the car lately. i'll update this in a few days, probably.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I'll post pictures of my progress as well... once I get the head and block back from the machinist.
(I work on his computer, he works on my parts... really a great deal)


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

who is HKK?
this is a local machine shop thats boring my motor and doing my headwork


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
As fas as the Gasket for the Breather, I am in the search for one now. You can just use a paper gasket, but I am almost positive that you can use the gasket from the PL or 9a. The part numbers are 027 103 771D and 048 103 771 respectively. ....
Shawn

In further research, it appears that the only correct one is the *027 103 771 D* as the other is a formed seal for the breather for use on the later plastic housing. This # *IS* be the correct paper gasket from the PL as I just received one.


_Modified by sdezego at 8:52 AM 9-17-2007_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

just make a paper gasket?.... Im making a bracket for my supercharger that goes over that hole...
the other hole will be freeze plugged.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Sure, you could. I have only been able to locate a thicker material locally and haven't really needed to worry about it since it is not holding me up. Even the "thiner" of the two locally is thicker than I prefer.


----------



## tedthebellhopp (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_who is HKK?

ask LBSOHK he works with USRT they had a little thing going with him for a while 



_Modified by tedthebellhopp at 4:21 PM 8-21-2007_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ummmm ok well my stuff will be done friday... so I will take pics then...
my machinist is glass beading the head and ports wooT!
I was .005" taper on the block, not too bad but could have been better. it should fit my .020" over forged jobs


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

oh yah, 
which head gasket?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

16V metal headgasket
a guy on here has them for sale, 45 shipped.
you an me are going through the same project right now, I say help each other as much as possible!
you dont need an ABA downpipe, its the same on the G60, the G60 just has the annoying little screw that needs to be cut down, (I got an ABA one 2 days ago and compared them, they are the same). 
However, The ABA one has the 02 sensor on the side of the downpipe (way better than the stock G60 one) Im filling it with a wideband >=-).


_Modified by potatonet at 3:47 AM 8-24-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i suspected the downpipes were the same if not really close. already got the header though. oh well.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

nvm. aba or g60 head gasket will work. the difference is the holes for the pins that stick out of the block for aligning the gasket.
aba head gaskets are $20, g60s are $45


_Modified by deth_core at 9:26 PM 8-23-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

another question.
the rear charger bracket needs to be milled the thickness of the block off plate... has anyone done this with the techtonics one? it's like a half inch thick. so i'd be milling off the whole base of the bracket......so, mill them both 1/2 the thickness of the block off plate i guess?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

if you use an ABA headgasket you can get an oil leak on the front of the block, look at the shape of the gasket and how the oil seal line goes, if you use an ABA you ask for a leak.
G60's will work up to an 82.5mm bore, are youre-boring? if yes (and I assume you are) then you need a 16v headgasket from a 2.0L (stacked metal, not fiber)
as far as the block off plate goes, you are on your own, I have an oversized lysholm on mine and I am making another bracket for my own setup... sorry...
G60's are the same as the 16V which is guaranteed to work.










_Modified by potatonet at 6:26 AM 8-24-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

ah... ok. thanks.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wait I think the 16V one is 83mm, Im not 100% on that tho, all I know is Im getting a 16V one...


----------



## Driver 17 (May 12, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

ive been using a metal aba head gasket for over a year with no oil leaks. Also i just drilled 2 oil return lines to my block off plate (no need to drill the block) then just tap a couple barbed fitting in there and its good to go. For the frost plug i think its a 40mm one and i just left the crank sensor and cut the wire. It show 1 fitting but i made 2.
I used
aba downpipe
aba metal headgasket
40mm frost plug
left crank sensor in so i didnt need the other frost plug
techtonics distributor adaptors(adaptor ring and aba distributor gear
techtonics block off plate
028 121 310 E water pump pulley with 65.5 inch serp belt
I didnt have to notch anything, maybe cause im using a lysholm.I also left the bottom bolt out of the alternator and it was good to go.


















































_Modified by Driver 17 at 4:48 PM 8-24-2007_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

nice pistons, who made them?
I opted for the BBM low compression ones and what are you driving those 42# injectors with? (what chip and or system)


----------



## Driver 17 (May 12, 2006)

Ross Racing low comp pistons and sns stage 5.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

speaking of stage V how much boost can it read, there was a rumor about 18 or something.
I looked at MKrad's pictures (sam from SNS) and he has some wierd boost mod thing in there to add 2 psi to the stock map sensor.... I dunno... =-/?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*

PICS
The car:









The block:








Drilling the oil return:








presto http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif











_Modified by deth_core at 5:37 PM 8-25-2007_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

nice... 
Bad news for me tho...
my head needs new valve seats (****ty) because VW set the ones in my head too low for the new valves to fit correctly.
my machinist is gonna do them for free tho! woot! I dont even have to pay for them =-).
pressing the wrist pins out of the rods monday. getting my rods shot peened tuesday. pistons come tuesday, block bored and honed wednesday. rods re-cut thursday everything back friday. Sat-monday build my motor.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

deth... Are you running the G60 bottom timing belt cover or the G60 one?
Driver 17, Im not 100% but it looks to me like you have 2 crank case vents, on the block off plate and one on the head? dont you only need 1?


_Modified by potatonet at 2:39 AM 8-26-2007_


----------



## Driver 17 (May 12, 2006)

Those are oil return lines on the block off plate. There is 2 return lines on the lysholm.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I see, 
yeah my lysholm doesnt have oil return, it has a sealed oil dispenser system that lasts 300,000 miles.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_deth... Are you running the G60 bottom timing belt cover or the G60 one?

the ABA cover.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

damn, the ABA cover from my motor was broken... -.-


----------



## Driver 17 (May 12, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

im using the g60 bottom timing belt cover and it seems to fit well.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i don't have the covers sitting here so i can't tell you the difference.
found this searching about the head gaskets:

_Quote, originally posted by *96jettatrek2.0* »_I measured the stock metal HG, you should be able to accomidate an 83.5mm bore using it... my measurements showed 83.6mm of room.

(aba)


_Modified by deth_core at 9:15 PM 8-25-2007_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

well snazzy.
I already ordered a 16V gasket though
I know the difference but I was just wondering what people were running because of their difference. the ABA one is supposed to hit the motor mount or somthing...


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

Very informative post so far, Wish it was around when I was doing my build this winter
I am just about to fire mine up for the first time
I used the adapter ring for the distributor, but didnt get the gear for the dizzy, I just used the g60 Intermediate shaft.
Is there any problem with doing this?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you know I dont know....
wow it hasnt been started yet?
I havent even gotten my block back and I plan on starting it up on labor day


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (Danno13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Danno13* »_I used the adapter ring for the distributor, but didnt get the gear for the dizzy, I just used the g60 Intermediate shaft.
Is there any problem with doing this?

as far as i know it should be fine.
edit: *should not*


_Modified by deth_core at 5:44 PM 8-27-2007_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Danno13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Danno13* »_
I used the adapter ring for the distributor, but didnt get the gear for the dizzy, I just used the g60 Intermediate shaft.
Is there any problem with doing this?

I don't know if this is an issue or not as I have not physically tried the PG IM shaft in the ABA or compared them side by side. Typically, there are issues with the 1.8L stuff clearing the rods and crank. The old 2L stroker kits in a 1.8 Liter required clearancing the IM shaft and Oil Pump Shaft. I know the 2L ABA and 9a oil pump shaft is notched for the crank and I would be leery about the IM shaft's Gear as well as the shaft itself.
Hope I didn't cause any false alarms, but I would find out for sure by someone who knows *for sure* before you crank it just in case. Maybe Repoman knows for sure since he has done a few PG->ABAs
I have an ABA iM Shaft that I can take measurements of, but unfortunately, I don't have a PG IM shaft out of a motor to compare.
Shawn


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

Wow, thanks Shawn, When I was turning it over on the stand, I could have swarn I head a tick at a certain point. I have the aba IM shaft some where I think still.
Going to have to look into this


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i read somewhere someone was using or was going to use a g60 intermediate shaft but i can't find the post.
don't take my word for it, find out for sure.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

http://www.geocities.com/scirocco_86_ca/
you have to modify the IM shaft in order to make it work, click on distributor page thing


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

good find. i forgot about that site.
i'll put this info up on the 1st post
"Here's some other stuff I've recently found more detail on. If you are in a situation where using a 2.0L distributor gear is not practical, it is possible is modify a 1.8L intermediate shaft so that you can run with a 1.8L distributor gear. The gear on the stock gear is too big and too wide to clear the #4 connecting rod journal. The intermediate shaft can be put in a metal turning lathe and the gear narrowed and chamfered to gain the necessary clearance and the eccentric (a relic left over from the old carbureter days) is also removed. Below are a comparison photos of the stock and modified intermediate shafts. "


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ooooo I got my ross racing (BBM) low ccompression pistons today =-D!!!! they are sooo pretty.... mmmmm
and they have cool oil holes in the piston


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (potatonet)*


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

how do you like your charge cooler?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

bump.
charger is at bbm getting a tune up and stage4 porting.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

my motor is being built in my garage right now.... ooo its so pretty... I get my head back today.... big valve P&P.... so happy...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

pics?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I know I know they are on my camera....
which is at home... not at work.. =-( but I want to take a pic of my supercharger on there for people to see the size diff. =-)


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*

time for some fun:
































































Fresh off the ebay (on this Item I did get what I paid for.... just gonna tell the guy it never got to me)









old block: for sale!!!








battery relocation:








New TB placement for silencing system:
















my currently messy engine bay:








was gonna take pictures of my new O2 sensor but I thought that would deaden up things a bit


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

nice. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I still cant believe I forgot to buy valve keepers...
head wont be done till thurs...
motor in thurs night, friday get it running right...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

swapped the gears on my distributor last night. forgot to put the adapter ring on first.







the roll pin was way easier to punch out than the stock tapered pin.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

make sure to post up some pics of that BVH when you get it.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

will do its only a 41 34 but I have the valve seats for a 42 35 =-)


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ports were opened and guide bosses were removed... a little more flow... gonna have to get them CNC'd one of these days.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yes that head has a LOT of corrosion on it.
will be sourcing a 20V head for the next project.
time to hook up some variable valve timing...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

badass.
but yah, too bad about the corrosion.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

What I would love to see is people using the entire ABA engine + PG Brackets.I mocked it up a couple of years ago and I would say that with the AEG lower and upper manifolds,it definitely would bring a fresh look to the engine bay.The only problem you will have is the alternator relocation which is not really a problem if you dont care about the AC compressor.
Remember this from 3 years ago?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

interesting...
not enough boost for me...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

who was selling the alternator setup that goes in the a/c compressor spot?


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_interesting...
not enough boost for me...

It has plenty of boost, It has two G60s


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_who was selling the alternator setup that goes in the a/c compressor spot?

Do it yourself,it is easy really if you have a VR6 or ABA alternator


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

anyone do a DIY on the alt? or is there info in the 16v or 20v how-to?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_anyone do a DIY on the alt? or is there info in the 16v or 20v how-to?

are you running A/C or no A/C? As issam mentioned above, if you are not running A/C, then just get an ABA or Vr alt and it will be self explainitory. Pretty much bolts right up where the A/C compressor did with very little mods. Should be in the 20v thread as well as the 16v thread if you really want to research it.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i'm running a/c, but i was just thinking about maybe ditching it in the future.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

Why not run the stock G60 alt setup then?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Why not run the stock G60 alt setup then?

Would not clear the lower portion of the ABA manifold is your using a complete ABA cylinder head.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

Right, didn't realize he was going to run the cross flow head. Thought he was running the G60 head.
Edit: No wonder why i thought that









_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_Got myself an ABA block (iceman666) and will be running this with a G60 head and a G-Lader....



_Modified by sdezego at 9:13 PM 9-20-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i'm not running a cross flow head. but i may in the future. i was only speculating about maybe running a higher amp alt down there. i dunno. anyway, wasn't there an issue of the alternator cover sitting too high with the tall block? ...like it hits the bottom of the hood?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

also, i wanted to mention that i have an old g60 alternator and an aba gear if someone wants to buy em. (just needs the adapter ring and a roll pin).


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I think it will hit the hood.
Im extremely worried it will hit the hood too.... time to mod the hood I guess... maybe time for a VR hood...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

or just delete the cover if the alt will clear the hood.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

anyone with machinery want to mill my block-off plate and rear charger bracket?
i don't want to deal with the local machine shop, especially.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

no I already got rid of the cover... I think the alt will hit the hood... time for a hoodscoop hahahaha
btw get someone with a plasma cutter to cut one out of steel, then grind it to size.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_anyone with machinery want to mill my block-off plate and rear charger bracket?
i don't want to deal with the local machine shop, especially.

What AN fitting you want on it?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

dont need an AN fitting, just need to take the 1cm off of each or watever.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

mmm car is down for the count until I can get back to it (its 300 miles away)... should be back to it this weekend... my machinist is coming over to find out why I have no compression.....
take the CAM off and I get 80 psi on 3 cylinders and 25 on one.... something is wrong =-(
I = depressed


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

sh*tty.
i got my charger back from BBM a couple weeks ago. needed a tune up and stage 4 porting. now i'm polishing the intake part of it (kk 50/50 style).


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ah the good old days of my G60 charger...


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_mmm car is down for the count until I can get back to it (its 300 miles away)... should be back to it this weekend... my machinist is coming over to find out why I have no compression.....
take the CAM off and I get 80 psi on 3 cylinders and 25 on one.... something is wrong =-(
I = depressed 

Sounds like he never cut the valve stems ends down properly to account for the valve job (since we do not have adjustable rocker arms or shims like some cars). The hydro lifters needs the stem at the precise length. This wouldn't be the first time that i have seen someone do this on a VW head.
S


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah he said he used the same measurement for a golf, (valves are for a golf, G60 head) we will see on friday... but I know its the valves...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

any word yet?
i'm about finished with the charger. and i was going to post up pics but my camera seems lost.
still have a bunch of stuff to do... rear bracket, get some stuff sand blasted, get the radiator flushed, a/c 134 conversion, blah blah blah.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah ok....
so the problem was my idiocy again...
I forgot to change the valve spring retainers.... I put the 8V ones on and it was causing the problems.
I am now trying to find a source for 7mm valve spring retainers tomorrow... couldnt find any today...
but its gonna be an interesting next few days...
and once again... GOD I AM AN IDIOT!


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*

just a thought...
will the 1.9TD head gasket work on the gas engine?
there are 3 sizes of HG for the diesel engine and maybe that would work to lower the cr to 9:1 or more....
and its a metal gasket too.
and whats the differences in the g60 and the 2.0 head?
i have a complete low milage 2E engine(european early 2.0cc engine) and its also a counter flow head so should i use it instead of the PG head?
another thing, i have the interior of the distributer from a 2E engine(4 holes ,what is missing to have things working?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I dont know the 2E motor very well....
the counterflow on your 2L probably has smaller valves compared to a G60 head. so a G60 head would be better.
no that headgasket wont work.
dont use the headgasket to lower the CR. Get pistons, I found that out over the build of my motor.
G60 head is counterflow, 2.0L in crossflow with 7mm valves.
take the internals (make sure you have the drive gear). and put them back into a 2E dizzy housing... 
am I right in saying you have a knock sensor ignition... is the 2E from an audi 80 by chance?
I cant remember if that was the motor I was going to use or not...


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

the engine was off a golf gti from 1993.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carrizog60* »_
i have a complete low milage 2E engine(european early 2.0cc engine) and its also a counter flow head so should i use it instead of the PG head?

The 2E engine = Europe's ABA engine.
It uses the same block as the ABF/ABK/ABT engines just that it was counterflow not cross flow.The advantage the 2E engine has over other counterflow engines is that it has MUCH BIGGER Oval intake ports instead of the regular circular units like the PG & it comes with its own fuel rail + adaptation for a DBC throttle body.
I would use the 2E engine instead of the PG,run 2 head gaskets + ARP studs and slap the PG charger + brackets on it.
What engine management are you runing?Digifant-I?


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

yes,planing on using all stock G60 system...
what about the intake manifold?
better than PG one?
adaptable to G60 TB?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (carrizog60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carrizog60* »_yes,planing on using all stock G60 system...
what about the intake manifold?
better than PG one?
adaptable to G60 TB?

Yes it is better than the PG manifold but it points the throttle body towards the passenger side fender which is not what you want.You will have to source a 3A intake manifold (Audi 80 2.0E manifold) as that has the oval intake ports & the rectangular dual butterfly flap throttle body.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I can get you that manifold for some $$$ =-)
got one on a car at a local yard.. no one local will take it because they dont know it =-).
being that I just finished my motor I dont think I should change to that head/mani
its ok, 2 years from now its 20V ABA SC time =-)
next year is paint!
but anyway to get this thread back on topic..

YES MY MOTOR RUNS!!! got my valve spring retainers in and everything worked.
being that I am running a silenced system, IE TB is way before any hoses, I think I have an air leak because RPM's climb to 3000 rpms instantly.
I had to tow the car 300 miles (took 9 hours driving at 45, got home at 4 am), now I have to find my problem/air leak.
I think its a stuck ISV.... anyone?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

don't know. but at least it's running. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## clove911 (Jun 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

Has anyone done ABA head on PG block? Can it be done? I was thinking the benefits of crossflow. And its easier to find than a 16V head


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

there are a few threads if you search.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

u having trouble finding a 16V head...?
I have 3 laying around, (didnt use them on this conversion)
my next motor will have a 20V head on it with VVT >=-)


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

found my camera and got some new parts, so i'll be updating tonight or tomorrow.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (deth_core)*

So here's some of what i've been up to,
sandblasting









polishing, painting








i still need to do some sanding and buffing, then clean it, and give it some more flat black.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

Watch it on that oil filter housing.Put in some hot water to get rid of some of some of the media (if any).


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i taped and plugged the oil filter flange,
and i'm going to wash everything.
i thought someone might say something about the flange.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (deth_core)*

one more pic.
new stuff:


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah I know that oil cooler, cuase I have one... BE VERY CAREFUL when tightening the brass fittings, you can tear the aluminum on the cooler, trust me I did it, I know.
oooo 42 lb injectors....
seems like a bit much with the G-lader... running 16 psi on a 2L motor needs 32 lb injectors (or a 3.5 bar fpr with 30 lb injectors


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

naw, they're perfect.








thanks for the heads up on the oil cooler


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

what boost are you planning on?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

16-17lbs. on 2.1l @ a hair above 9:1.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wait you are using a 2.1L?
what are your motor specs?
I have 83mm with 92.8mm stroke and 159mm rods
and I am only at 2.0L did you put in 84mm pistons... or am I missing something...
I put myself into the 8:1 range because I plan on running over 24 psi...
I actually think I am in the 7.8:1 range because of the supertech valves and their domed structure...
but thats ok... less heat for me.
what pistons are you using?


_Modified by potatonet at 9:03 AM 10-20-2007_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

ok, you got me
they're 83mm wiseco pistons, 92.8, 159
so i guess it's more like 2.01. you're right.
and since the head was milled, it's like 9.1:1


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

once again... 9.1:1?
how much was the head milled?
were the wiseco's 9:1 to start?
each head mill is something like .02 to the compression ratio so you would have to have the head milled a lot for 9.1:1...
man Im just a dream crusher...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

you got me again! it's milled 0.010", for resurfacing, not to raise the compression.
i've not calculated it out. so i was just guessing that it's not raised that much.
if you're right, then it'd be 9.02:1








yes they're 9.0:1 pistons. wiseco makes 2 for ABAs; 10.5:1 and 9.0:1.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I wonder how hot that will get...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

dunno. someone on here is running a near identical setup.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

do they say how much power they are putting down...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

nope. did some searching and i can't find anything yet.
damnit can't remember.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

did find this though
272 hp on a 16V at 11 psi.
so I think at 16 psi we are looking at about 240 with a stock head 255 with a ported and 260 valved and ported


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

11% increase from my last dyno would be 232. that was with 17 psi on a 1.8
so I figure Im flowing maybe 15% more air which would be another 25 hp ( 3.2-3.3 psi to maintain 16 psi in my system and figure 7.5 hp per psi)
that would put me at 258 which is about right.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif i'd like to see the results. how's the progress coming?
i decided since my tranny has a slow leak, i should drop it and replace all the seals and gaskets. 
lot of stuff to do, i't going to take me a while.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

its going good I think, trying to see if I can get a 3.5 bar fpr from a guy who needs a 3 bar one.
but in the mean time I still havent sorted my spark issue


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i have a new 3.5 fpr. i was holding on to it in case i needed to run 30#@3.5 instead of [email protected]


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (deth_core)*

another pic








bahn brenner stage 4 porting.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

that looks sweet


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

pulled the transmission the other day.
progress is slow when you have work and school.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah I don't even have time to rewire my coil with 3 crimp fittings...
I would like to pull my transmission and put in a diff... no way I have time for that


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_
bahn brenner stage 4 porting.









Thats CNC ported correct?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

yah. it is


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ummm so hows the progress....
mine runs but I have 2500 idle again.... =-/
stupid problems (its ok I dont even have registration for the car right now)


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

lame.
going to do all the seals and gaskets on the tranny and bolt it up today or tomorrow...
been working on my friend's mk3 the past couple weeks.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

still haven't done the tranny. updates this weekend probably.
(...if anyone's still looking at this thread.)


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

Im still here!
I fixed my Idle problem and hooked up my supercharger... now it idles at 1500 rpms, but I am overfueling like no other...
I have to redo my boost lines but in the mean time I will just jerry rig it...


----------



## tedthebellhopp (Feb 1, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

yea im still watching














few beers for a great thread


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

alright I am so fed up with this silencing system...
a few things I figured out about silencing your lysholm:
1. there will be leaks
2. you need a blow off valve
3. you dont need an ISV anymore... or I dont think you do... could just be my leak issue that makes me think I dont need it.
4. IT IS very nice and quiet
5. I am going to kill mine then shove it up a donkey's ass.... 
yes my idle is still 2500 rpms. thanks to either a leak somewhere or an ECU issue. Calling BBM tomorrow... man I hope I get ahold of John


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
5. I am going to kill mine then shove it up a donkey's ass....


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

fixed the problem, just another air leak.
now this is the best part...
drive my car, it hauls ass, shift to second gear, it hauls ass then starts to shudder... 
I thought it was the check valve Im using to route boost.... nope
then I thought its detonating... nope AFR is good.
so I do it again... and again... oh holy **** Im breaking traction on my tires STARTING at 3500 rpms in second gear, it only goes away if I let off the gas.
so much power and no diff or sticky tires to put it down. but now I know that i have the power I wanted =-) 
I love my 2.0L =-)


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

are the mods in ur sig up to date?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

aside from exhaust, cam, chip, sport valve springs, and probably more Im forgetting.... yes


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

if you are about to convert yours I HIGHLY recommend an LSD


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

im already in the process of doing it lol, i have the entire engine out...just rebuilding an aba block right now...havent had time to go back to the shop to pick up my bearings yet...damn snow...but the outcome for you sounds nice! how do you run ur fmic?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

around the side of the radiator on the passenger side, and under the front cross bar on the drivers side.
also its my clutch slipping not my tires =-(
but its good because I have enough power to make my clutch with 15k on it slip (clutch I have is good to 240 hp and 260 ft lbs)


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

oOo...me want car done...FAST...HEAR ME ROAR!


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wait are you using a G-lader? porting?


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

yea im using a G-ladder, and depending how much it cost to port a head...i might do it...why do u ask?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

just wondering, I think the lysholm is more efficient (way more expensive though)
porting a head can cost up to 2 g's I ported my own head with an air dremel and carbide files (took out a lot of aluminum)
I also port matched the head but will redo it when I make my own intake manifold (stock one SUCKS!)


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

gotcha...well ill ask around my place to see how much it cost to port my head to match with the intake n exhaust? thats what u do right, im new to porting things so i got to ask around hehe


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yes you could do it yourself if you really wanted to, 
you are just making the holes match up, you will be surprised at how far off they are.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

yea i dont think im close to even being able to do it myself lol.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i wouldn't recommend it.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
ports were opened and guide bosses were removed... a little more flow... gonna have to get them CNC'd one of these days.

Is it good idea to remove guide bosses ? Isn´t there a posibility to cause a strenghts problems with the guides ? Couldn´t they be swinged out by the force of valves ?
And the ABA was used only in US so it is not an option for me. An 2E engine is available here - adress to http://www.doppel-wobber.de it have same parametres as ABa but it isn´t crossflow.
Can someone confirm to me that it can be used for the block swap ?
Thanks


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you can also use a 3A bubble block from an audi 80.
removing the guide bosses is not bad, it improves flow, cutting the guide's down increases the wear on the valve train.
it shouldnt cause a strength problem with the guides because the boss is not where they are being held .... and its a linear movement.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Ok, thanks for replies.
The 2E is was also used in Corrado so i thinked i can use it. I should look fot the audi block then.
And what about the idea of using G60 crank and ABA block together ?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

the G60 crank is too small for the ABA block. (the stroke is only 86.4mm)
the ABA stoke is 92.8 but the rods are about 20mm longer


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

And the piston pin diameter is ?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

my ABA has 21mm diameter pistons pins
G60's have 22mm diameter piston pins
I think regular 16V's with 144mm rods have 20mm pison rings


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

quick question for you aba/g60 builders, if you guys did end up rebuilding your aba block like me, i cant remember but were there any thrust washers between some of the bearing shells like they have in the pg blocks?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yes there are thrust washers on bearing shell number 3, you will need a new set of them for the ABA motor.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_my ABA has 21mm diameter pistons pins
G60's have 22mm diameter piston pins
I think regular 16V's with 144mm rods have 20mm pison rings

thx
If I will use BBM low comp pistons so there are no need to stack head gaskets, or still I have to do that ?


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

if u use bbm's low comp pistons, theres no need to stack head gaskets.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (Majsha)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Majsha* »_
The 2E is was also used in Corrado so i thinked i can use it. I should look fot the audi block then.

No way...
The 2E = counterflow ABA...Only engines the Corrado came with were the AAA 12V VR6 (other VR6 engine codes as well) and PG G60.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

poor old wizard of od....
think worldwide, there were a lot of motor combinations worldwide for corrados.
you have to make sure you are doing that right before you buy BBM pistons...
bbm pistons are what I have for low compression 2.0L and they come with 21mm pins for use on 159mm rods from an ABA motor. it looks like you will need customs made from Ross racing, wiseco, or JE.
this isnt a slap it together if you are using a different block than the ABA... 
send me the specs of the motor you are using, Bore dia, rod length, pin dia and the pistons you want to use and I will tell you if you are ok.
the block deck height is different for the ABA and the PG motors, its 16.5mm different.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
think worldwide, there were a lot of motor combinations worldwide for corrados.

What?The 16V?That does not count....the Corrado never came with the 2E Motor.Simple and I am not from the US so I know all about worldwide VW's.

_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
the block deck height is different for the ABA and the PG motors, its 16.5mm different.

16mm? 220mm vs 236mm


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Here you are: ( Copied from doppel-wobber.de )
2E
11/91-09/94
kw/PS 85/115
1984 ccm
Lift - 92,8 mm
Bore - 82,5 mm
comp. - 10,4
Same parametres as ABA only diference is that its ECU is DIgifant too and it is not a crossflow head
Rod and pin diameter I don´t know by now, but after I´ll open the engine up I´ll see what can be done with that.
But I hawe seen one 2.0L G60 Corrado here so I think it could be done even the ABA isn´t available here.

Pictures:
















Another option for me is the ADY engine, too same as 2E+ABA but used in 10/94-12/95 and driven by Simos ECU ( Digifant succesor ) 



_Modified by Majsha at 8:41 AM 12-11-2007_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

use digifant... its easier to mess with
you also have to remember they put in a 1.8 8V in the UK, a 2.0L 16V, a 1.8L 16V, 2.9L VR, the 2.0L 8V, 
they had some funny ones in mexico and south america... 1.8L 8V carbeurated.
south america was doing a piece together thing when they did their stuff because they ended up with a 2.0L that used 144mm rods... (beats me)


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

1.8L 8V wasn´t used in a Corrado


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yes it was =-) depends on what part of the world you lived in. (it was a factory botch for most parts of South America)


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_yes it was =-) depends on what part of the world you lived in. (it was a factory botch for most parts of South America)

Show me...
The Corrado was listed as VW's sport coupe.They were not going to go and put a basic economy engine in it....
Thats like taking a GTI and putting a 1.4 Diesel engine in it.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

yah, i kinda doubt it too.
the 16v was the only other motor from what i've read.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

brazil imported 250 corrado bodies in 1991 from germany, no motor. it was planned for a 16V engine but ended up with 1.8L 8V motors with carbs on them.
I will find the email VW sent me a while ago.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I asked them how many corrado's were made and what countries got them.
the answer I got was more than I could believe.
you guys know about the first 500 corrados right?


----------



## jt932 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: (potatonet)*

the 8v motors (non-G60) were the "2E" (4/93-9/94) and "ADY" (10/94-7/95).
They were 2.0L with 115hp.
This is info from ETKA.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

did you not find the motor that was sent to the eastern europeans? the 2.0L cross flow with intake on the reverse side
or the 1.6 or 1.8L carbeurated motor from South america?
this is mostly just brazil but they have info from some other countries
http://www.lunaticfringe.org/v....html
VW did some wierd things with motors guys, Im not making stuff up. They even put a ford motor into them in south america....


----------



## jt932 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: (potatonet)*

The program does not show corrado under South Africa or Brazil.
The info i got was under germany.
What i think happened is, the other engines might have been a deal install/option.
I'm not saying your wrong, just that according to ETKA, those are the engines that i found.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

the corrado was never a south african or brazil car. the VW corporation imported 250 to south america (country I am not aware of) and put in put put motors in it.
did you read up on the website I posted above? they put a ford engine into VW's as it performed better than the PG motor.
ETKA definitely does not have that in its system (I checked, I have it too)


----------



## jt932 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: (potatonet)*

i'm sorry, i thought you were just talking about the Corrado.
ETKA also does show the two ford engines, the AT 8V and AT 16V.
Just another wierd fact that you might already know is that the VW Taro is a toyota and so ETKA has the break down of the 22r engine.
I just found that interesting.


----------



## jt932 (May 27, 2005)

*Re: (potatonet)*

there were also AP and AE.
The VW engine codes were AFZ, ASF, ASW, AZN, AZP.
The ASW i belive was the 1L 16V turbo.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wow someone has studied the etka catalog a little bit...


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

the AP1600 engines are not related to anything involving G60 engines...
that site must be wrong.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah that part didnt make sense to me either
maybe they meant the AT1000 through the G60, as in 2 different motors...?
I havent got a clue.


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

the g60 only equiped the PG engine.
that was in golf,corrado and passat.
dont know also why they talk about it,even the sentence is bad


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

there was the G40 though...


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (potatonet)*

g40 was a far superior design motor. keep in mind most of eu/uk/etc pay ALOT for gas, and TAX on litre. I've seen crappy 1.6 SDI GTI's in amsterdam; quite boring. everything is a 1.6 SDI on the mk4's. The mk5 i think they moved on up to optional 1.8TFSI. Most of the A6's had the 1.8T (150bhp version). 
vw has no market in EU/UK to build high displacement 4 cylinders; people can't afford them. otherwise we'd have a 2.4+litre k04'ish motor like (honda MDX,mazda speed3,srt-4,rally bred cars). 
i wish they'd make a nice 2.5 litre turbo motor; 300whp easily; probably only sell in the USA which isn't exactly the hot market for their cars.


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

not that true in portugal...
here in mkIV the most is TDI...
why was g40 a superior design?i think it has the same features as g60?


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (mrkrad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mrkrad* »_g40 was a far superior design motor. keep in mind most of eu/uk/etc pay ALOT for gas, and TAX on litre. I've seen crappy 1.6 SDI GTI's in amsterdam; quite boring. everything is a 1.6 SDI on the mk4's. The mk5 i think they moved on up to optional 1.8TFSI. Most of the A6's had the 1.8T (150bhp version). 
vw has no market in EU/UK to build high displacement 4 cylinders; people can't afford them. otherwise we'd have a 2.4+litre k04'ish motor like (honda MDX,mazda speed3,srt-4,rally bred cars). 
i wish they'd make a nice 2.5 litre turbo motor; 300whp easily; probably only sell in the USA which isn't exactly the hot market for their cars.


True, but just one correction : mostly used is 1.4TFSI and 1.6
Maximal commonly affordable displacement is 1.8L, 2.0L is for most people just too much.
Also the higher displacement means higher insurance we have to pay 
For example 1.8L costs 275 USD/year but 2.8 (VR6) costs 600USD/year
Gas is 1,55 USD per litre


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

*Re: (Majsha)*

is cheap...
in portugal is 1.40€ or 2.05dolar... A LITER















thats why diesel is way more used in here...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

can we get this thread back on track please...?


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

OK








Here is a picture of my 2E partly dismounted








Now the block is sanblasted, black painted and prepared for further instalation



_Modified by Majsha at 6:04 AM 1-8-2008_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

that's a rusty one.
finally got the throwout bearing and stuff taken care of and the tranny mounted to the block. tomorrow i'm going to get the new seals in and try to get it all in the car.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

good luck, I had a tractor at my house when I did it, made it 100 times easier.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_that's a rusty one.
finally got the throwout bearing and stuff taken care of and the tranny mounted to the block. tomorrow i'm going to get the new seals in and try to get it all in the car.








That was a rusty one


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

I should make a picture step by step for others here.
Today I measured pistons, diameter on each vary from 81,81mm to 82,395 depending on spot, originally they are 82,485
So keep them or change ?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

well, thats not really what makes the difference.
you need to measure the taper in the block, if its over 10 thou you need to rebore and put new pistons in.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Bore is fine. I will change piston rings, just want to know if the pistons too


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

how large is your taper?


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

sorry, but what is taper?
i am portuguese and some words are not familiar to me...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

taper is the ridge around the top of the bore, it should only stick out from the bore a little bit


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Don´t know but I will measure it.
BTW is it a problem when the taper is same high as the block ?
Some new pics. I was so bored in my work so I made a engine stand


























_Modified by Majsha at 8:12 AM 1-21-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

well you put the head on... now you cant measure the taper...
the taper is like a little ridge like this pic...
http://images.moparmusclemagaz...r.jpg
the ridge reamer get rid of this stuff so you dont break rings...
If you get your block bored you dont have to worry about it


----------



## G60syncro (Feb 7, 2001)

*Re: (potatonet)*

In fact the ridge does'nt really tell you the true story as far as taper goes... A tapered cylinder is when it's worn out more on the top than on the bottom so it's shaped like a cone instead of a prefect cylinder (we're talking thousandths of an inch here). You can still end up with a ridge if the motor has worn evenly. Which means your cylinders will be perfectly cylindrical but the diameter will be out of spec.
In any case, if you have a ridge or not, taper or not, your cylinders need to be a specific size from top to bottom and perfectly round. If you can't meet these conditions within the stock specs, then you have to bore out the block to the next standard oversize and buy the proper pistons.
Nice build though!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

like what I did... bore and oversize


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_well you put the head on... now you cant measure the taper...
the taper is like a little ridge like this pic...
http://images.moparmusclemagaz...r.jpg
the ridge reamer get rid of this stuff so you dont break rings...
If you get your block bored you dont have to worry about it

The head just lies there








I should check the bore once again then.
But it seems that there isn´t a taper, the block is flat on top...
Bad ?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

take a picture of it...
sorry taper is across the whole cylinder wall, the ridge is on top.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_take a picture of it...
sorry taper is across the whole cylinder wall, the ridge is on top.


I think what ridge are you talking about ! 
Do you mean a ridge on the cylinder wall near upper end caused by wear by the piston rings ?
There isn´t any, cylinders are perfect


_Modified by Majsha at 9:23 AM 1-23-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

not even a little bump? it should be really small if any


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_not even a little bump? it should be really small if any

Not even a small







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
The engine has low miles on it.


----------



## MByler1 (Dec 15, 2000)

*Re: (Majsha)*

Slowly working through this project myself. Good info here. 
Thanks guys. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

haven't made much progress cuz of college.
how about you guys


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

done? 
but not exactly how I want it... I still need to get new boost lines and intake lines for the system.... not to mention figure out why my lysholm froze...


----------



## MByler1 (Dec 15, 2000)

*Re: (deth_core)*

Slowly working through it. cleaning the block, I will probably start putting things back together soon.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

just do it... its worth it...
BTW I seriously suggest anyone doing this conversion (I assume you will all use 8:1 pistons) to PORT YOUR cylinder head!!! I can tell you right now that it makes the largest difference out of anything I have done. my supercharger broke and I have been running no boost, you really notice the difference there.... I have 134 hp without boost, on 8:1.... which is basically amazing.... I have my ported head to thank...


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

phew...im not the only one not getting anywhere with the car because of school...it sux


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah thats the reason I did mine before school started... 
although I had to make 3 trips up home so I could finish it....


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

made some progress sunday. replaced the injector seats and started putting the head together. then put a few things back on the block...


----------



## MByler1 (Dec 15, 2000)

*Re: (potatonet)*

I am not running the 8:1 pistons. This is supposed to be the cheaper project








I did pick up one of those fancy pants headgasket/spacer combos form rhussjr. 
I will also be fabbing up an Eaton M90 instead of my spare g60. 
My head was gasket matched. 
Mark


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I started with gasket matching... then I got carried away... and I wanted more room.... so I ported further...
but its ok when I make a short runner manifold it should be nice because I will have that much more air flow... ( my ports are larger than my manifold ports...)


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

is anyone using the g60 intermediate shaft with the aba block? i kinda wanna keep the g60 dizzy. i heard id have to get this?
http://techtonicstuning.com/sh...3.146


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah you must get that... or 
the distributor from an audi 3A motor (the longitude mounted 2.0L knock sensor ignition) basically any audi 80 with a 2.0L
I had a brand new vw dizzy, but I opted for the audi dizzy because I didnt have to take anything apart.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

so i could use the g60 intermediate shaft as long as i used a dizzy from any audi 80 with a 2.0L then?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

the IM shaft from the 2.0L and the G60 are the same.
and yes to the dizzy Q
http://cgi.ebay.com/Audi-VW-Go....m122
thats a new one for 80 dollars... beats the hell out of what I paid.


_Modified by potatonet at 10:50 AM 3-6-2008_


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

i dont think the aba and the g60 IM are the same. I looked at them both next to each other and one of them had a lobe and the gear is larger.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

from page1
If you want to run the 1.8 intermediate shaft with the stock gear on the dist. you will still need the adapter bushing above and you'll have to modify the shaft. 
from http://www.geocities.com/scirocco_86_ca/


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

and if i run the aba im then all i would need to do is get an aba dizzy then correct?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I totally forgot about that part of the IM shaft...
if you run the aba you need an audi Dizzy, no modification of shafts... I have that combo and its flawless.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

Justin let me know when you get the package http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

oh boy! christmas already?
i'll let you know. thanks.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

hell I want a package...


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_hell I want a package...

Everyone wants a package but are they willing to pay for it?








I would love to see more ABA G60 motors running around,wonder why everyone isnt doing them!?


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

kinda confusing if you stop thinking about it hehe thats what happened to me


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

as far as i can rememeber, after getting the block, i need to install the block off plate, drill a hole for the oil return line, with aba intermediate shaft get an audi 80 or aba dizzy, and from there on its pretty much bolt on? another question, did anyone use the knock sensor from the old pg block or no?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I used the knock sensor I got from the ABA because its the same thing/ish
you need a dizzy from an audi with a 3A motor
or you need to take the internals of a G60 dizzy and put them in an ABA dizzy housing with an ABA gear or use the techtonics tuning


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

-does the knock sensor from the aba motor have the green plug?
-might sound like a stupid question but what exactly does the 3A motor come in?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (aznsins666)*

the aba knock sensor is blue


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_the aba knock sensor is blue

Depends,I have seen some come with a Green knock sensor.If I recall they are all the same.Would be nice to see some testing done though (not that it matters in the grand scheme of things).


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

hey Wizard-of-OD, do you by any change have an audi 80 distributor for sale?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

hm. when i ordered them they said their color specific.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

well then best way to be safe is buy a new one from gap or mjm i guess


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (aznsins666)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aznsins666* »_hey Wizard-of-OD, do you by any change have an audi 80 distributor for sale?

I have a PM but no 3A.What you trying to accomplish?


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

keep the aba intermediate shaft in the aba block and not go through the whole gear conversion blah lol


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

he wants a dizzy from an audi bubble block.
knock sensors are all looking for the same frequency (6800 khz?) or something like that, they are a mini microphone. all the VW ones are 0-5V and can be put into a data logger program if needed. the length is what matters, as long as they have the same plug (3 prong) the color doesnt matter, they do however have to be mounted on the correct type of post.
the thing about a G60 block is that it has a post on the 36.5mm block off plug for the crank breahter.
the aba block doesnt have this plug and uses a plastic device to circulate the gas. the ABA however has a post dedicated to the knock sensor casted into the block.
if you mount it on a post it will resonate better, hence why VW mounts all on posts.
the amplitude may be smaller but the frequency will be larger. If you mount to the block, the frequency will be very muffled, and the amplitude will be as well.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aznsins666* »_keep the aba intermediate shaft in the aba block and not go through the whole gear conversion blah lol

Just put the PG internals into the ABA distributor.Its not really that hard









_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
the thing about a G60 block is that it has a post on the 36.5mm block off plug for the crank breahter.

For the knock sensor?Most people I know relocate it to the boss right above it.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

dont u have to modify the g60 intermediate shaft itself also to get it to work though?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

dude screw anything that came with your G60 motor,
just forget about it, it never existed. 
use everything from the aba motor, IM shaft, everything.
the ABA dizzy with G60 internals will work.
the link I posted will also work, I run that, its the same thing without all the labor and buying the TT stuff.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

im just gonna use the audi 80 dizzy with the aba block...


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (aznsins666)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aznsins666* »_dont u have to modify the g60 intermediate shaft itself also to get it to work though?

Not that I know of?
If your using the ABA IM shaft & ABA oil pump then use the ABA distributor.Just replace the 1-WINDOW ABA Hall with the 4-WINDOW PG G60 unit so essentially you will have an ABA distributor casing with a 4-Window centre and an ABA Distributor gear.
Yes finding the 3A distributor would be nice but why do that when everything is there for you?


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

i want to go with the 3a distributor because its simple. and i dont have an aba distributor and my g60 one broke when my friend was helping me take out the motor...so yea


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

does anyone know where i can get the oem thrust bearing set for the aba block...couldnt find it on german auto parts or mjm autohaus...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

autohausaz.com


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

a shop in my town?
the thrust bearings are on busdepot.com
enter the old part number... wait for that you would need etka.
I think BBM sells them too?
http://www.gprparts.com/OEMParts/vw.asp
select a 95 golf with aba motor and thrust bearings are 23.88


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

progress... sort of.









these guys are giving me a headache. guess i'm going to have to take the crossmember in to get them pressed in.
[IMG]http://drunkhourphoto.com//files/103/subfbushing.JPG


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

heres a few of mine from the machine shop


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

did they balance the crank?
have them balance the crank...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

OH BTW aznsins666 I have a spare 3A dizzy if you need one for 65 shipped? works fine


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

i already bought one, thanks though


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

tell me they didnt hone that motor with the crank still on...


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

no they honed it when the block was bare...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_Justin let me know when you get the package http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif 

still not here. probably got searched.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

been working on rebuilding this:








we'll see if it fits.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Sciroccomann* »_believe the ABA is the same.. it's the same housing minus the G60's rear bracket. I ran this alt in my corrado's before when I was po. 


_Quote, originally posted by *kjkg60* »_yeah i have 8v one but u will have to use the g60 pulley and spacer, u wont need the key, as the g60 one aint keyed , u will be minus the rear bracket, and u mite get some shudder on the alternator when u drop the throttle so u may get some belt squeek,
my belt for squeekin for ages till i put locktite on all the alternator braket bolts. 

misleading.
looks like its not gonna fit


_Modified by deth_core at 8:01 PM 3-28-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

corrado bracket, corrado alternator = no problem... just do it the stocker way...


----------



## 16V_Scirocco_GTX (Jul 18, 2001)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Is a 9A a suitable block for a 2L conversion? Since I have one coming out of my Scirocco I'd like to know if I should keep it around or get rid of the whole motor and just go this route instead .. if/when my G60 lands in my garage.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_corrado bracket, corrado alternator = no problem... just do it the stocker way...

i'm rebuilding them both. scored the aba one for dirt cheap so i thought i'd try it out.
i don't really like the idea of running the g60 alternator without the cover over the fan.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
Ive never had a fan cover the ENTIRE time I have had my car...
nothing has ever been sucked in, but I did put my hand on it once (will never do that again)
oh and for the other dude, DONT use a 9A motor, you will have to have a funny combination there...
the 9A has a short block 16mm shorter than the ABA block.
you will have to use the 9A crank and the 9A rods (or whatever you get but they have to be 144mm)
I used the ABA cause the rods in pre OBD II are forged =-) and the pre OBD II has oil squirters for the pistons but I think the 9A does too
plus where the heck are you gonna find 9A forged pistons...


_Modified by potatonet at 3:51 PM 3-29-2008_


----------



## 16V_Scirocco_GTX (Jul 18, 2001)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Good point .. looks like I'm selling that thing.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

woah. did someone tell a funny joke?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

no people always say dont run your alternator without a fan cover, like once a week....
been like than for 5 years and its still working fine =-) I just think its funny...


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

would this be a better solution then double stacking since its a multilayered metal headgasket?
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/cat...=1767


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you have to get a 2.0L 16V headgasket from a guy on these forums... I think his name is rhussirj
tell him you need a 16V 2.0L metal headgasket, it should cost about 40-50 dollars


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

will it correct the compression problem?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

they're all MLS gaskets. that one is the stock replacement for ABA. it will not lower the compression as it is stock.
bahn brenner sells an ABA mls gasket that lowers your compression by 1 point.
aba gaskets will work with 8v heads


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yes but they are not the "optimal" headgasket for the application
The compression issue needs to be fixed with the BBM gasket or by changing the pistons. I bought the gasket, then I realized that ABA pistons are cast and not meant for too much boost. I then returned the gasket and bought pistons... glad I did becuase I doubt the gasket could do 16 psi, I barely break 14 with over 260 hp...
port your head, you will thank yourself later.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

waiting for some gaskets to get here...then in goes the block!!!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

should i get the flywheel lightened at this time? im putting in a sach vr6 clutch in at this time...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

dont lighten the flywheel
Ive done it and then took it off and put the stock one one.
its just not as smooth of an acceleration


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

alrighty then, thanks!


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (aznsins666)*

Justin what are you doing for the alternator?I am seriously thinking of producing all these custom parts I have.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

dunno. i wanted to try to fit the aba alternator in the stock pg location.
having problems rebuilding the pg alternator right now. after tons of searching, i found the long m5x110x0.8 bolts that hold the casing together, but the ends were tapered down to 3 or 4mm dia.
can't get the damn bearings off.
need a new rear bearing for the pg one also. i have 3 sets of bearings for the aba alt, i guess the rear bearing on the pg alt is smaller. i assumed they were the same. shoulda looked beforehand i guess.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_dunno. i wanted to try to fit the aba alternator in the stock pg location.
having problems rebuilding the pg alternator right now. after tons of searching, i found the long m5x110x0.8 bolts that hold the casing together, but the ends were tapered down to 3 or 4mm dia.
can't get the damn bearings off.
need a new rear bearing for the pg one also. i have 3 sets of bearings for the aba alt, i guess the rear bearing on the pg alt is smaller. i assumed they were the same. shoulda looked beforehand i guess.

Throw away that PG alternator...I hate them.Upgrade to the ABA or AAA (VR6) unit.Are you using the AC?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

hate the PG alternator...?
why would you hate something that only fits on one car...


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_hate the PG alternator...?
why would you hate something that only fits on one car... 

Because all the Pre-MKIII alternators are prone to failure.Bosch really got it right when they went with the later generation of alternators.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i'd prefer a vr6 120a, but it won't fit either.
yes, i really want to keep my a/c.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

screw AC Ive never had it.... and he|| you live in washington its cold enough as it is already.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

does anyone know where i can get a new crank bolt? i checked gap and mjm but they both didnt have it...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

techtonics has the bolt and the cog
remember to torque it to spec. a lot of people sheared the keyway from putting it on with an impact gun.


_Modified by deth_core at 12:19 PM 4-5-2008_


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_screw AC Ive never had it.... and he|| you live in washington its cold enough as it is already.


negative. i live in eastern washington. gets way hot during the summer. sometimes up to 104.
i'm a wuss. i know.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

if you want a new crank bolt get one of these.
http://www.jayracing.com/index...y=USD
you have to grind down the washer to fit the stock pulley. its 50,000 psi stronger than the stock bolt, and it can be re-tightened if need be


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_i'd prefer a vr6 120a, but it won't fit either.
yes, i really want to keep my a/c.

Gotta relocate then








I need to get cracking on these damn brackets!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

make me something to run the vr6 alt in the stock pg location and have it ready in 2 weeks.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

dear god


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

wooooooooooooow


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah thats what happens with red coolant.
the PE that thing is made of absorbs the red color with heat.
I would bet they perform the same still (if the other one hasnt cracked yet)


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

there's poopy chalk all over in the bottom.and it was leaking, i guess because that cap seal was bf'd


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

how everyone doing...everything is bolted into place for me...just waiting to borrow an engine hoist...then its fun time! oh and how important is it to use an oil cooler...i have one but if my life depended on it...i dont know how it was connected










_Modified by aznsins666 at 8:04 PM 4-17-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you must have an oil cooler... period.
post a picture of your oil cooler and we can explain how to hook it up.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

im pretty sure i kno how to hook it up...but the previous owner had it mounted in front of the radiator...and im assuming i have to connect the two hose to the oil cooler flange thing right on the oil filter flange...i dont know if that made any sense...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

there is a VW manufactured oil cooler flange on all VW motors.
To that you attach an aftermarket oil cooler sandwich adapter, it is held on by a thin large nut.
you then attach the oil filter onto the remaining bit of the threaded line that comes out of the VW made flange.
the oil cooler should be in front of the radiator, yes or if you are really good at making brackets and have a FMIC it should be where the old IC went.
I have an FMIC and an oil cooler both in front of the radiator. I have an 8.5"x11" oil cooler, I would recommend a thinner longer oil cooler so you could feed an oil line down both sides of the engine bay instead of both down one side. it would make my FMIC mounting easier as well as giving me more oil air flow. Currently I have oil temps that sit at about 176-180 constantly, when I mash on it I can get it up to 196
I was gonna cut 2 holes in the front subframe (that holds the radiator up) but I didnt know if it was going to compromise the structural integrity...


_Modified by potatonet at 8:42 PM 4-17-2008_


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

can someone take a picture of the intermediate shaft bolts that holds the assembly to the engine block?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

8x1.25 or 8x1.0 and they are about 40mm in length


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

are they hex bolts or allen bolts


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

hex
i'll take the thread gauge to em if you want.


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

a friend that has bought a 2E engine as told me that the distributors are equal...
is it true?no need for mixing components then?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (carrizog60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *carrizog60* »_a friend that has bought a 2E engine as told me that the distributors are equal...
is it true?no need for mixing components then?

As in the same internal components?
BTW Justin...
























Should have it by monday morning according to what I have here http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

dont know,exterior are equal...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

right on. looks good dude.
thanks


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

engine is almost all in!!!


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

find a picker? woot for double digits...


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

all thats left to do...put the head on, hook up the coolant hoses, put the oil cooler back on, connect all the wires, fill all liquids, put battery back in, and start her up...SO EXCITED!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
i decided to do the A arms, bushings, cv boots, etc. 
the head is assembled, and issam's bracket should be here, but i want to wait to put that stuff on so i can get to the inner CV joints easily. 
so i'm still a ways off
also i'm going to do some electroless nickel plating on some brackets and pulleys with a kit i got from caswell. should be an interesting experiment.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wow nickel plating... that sounds like its gonna be $$$.
I need to cut the castings off of the new supercharger... then just bolt everything back onto the motor.
oh and I need my intake hoses welded.


----------



## Majsha (Apr 7, 2006)

I see you use freeze plugs to close breather hole.
I had made a bunch of plugs same as on PG are so you can use knock sensor in original position. If someone is interested send me a mail to [email protected]
Also few other fine parts are available.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i am purchasing an obd1 ABA bottom end in a week or so, has anyone come up with pistons designed for this swap? i have ruled out head gasket stacking and thicker head gaskets as i'd rather have some low-compression (ideally 8.5:1-9:1) forged pistons with the characteristics that the PG pistons have (deep set rings) and possibly have them coated as well. what would i have to bore the cylinders out to in order to achieve 2.1 liters? is it feasible?


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

oil cooler is in...ac is back in...charger is back in...just need to bolt head on and connect wires and hoses







EXCITED!!!


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

BBM sells the pistons, they are made by Ross racing, 83mm with a deep dish.
8:1 CR, 7.87:1 with domed valves
I have seen people do 2.1L with different pistons that I have never seen before.


_Modified by potatonet at 4:36 PM 4-24-2008_


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

hey potatonet, what supercharger are you running? g60, lysholm, or something else?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

biggest lysholm I have ever seen on a VW motor ;-)
its a 1.6L/rev lysholm from a C32 AMG mercedes with a VERY custom bracket that I may remake... If I could only find an alternator rear mount.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

ah i c


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

thanks for the info, i might just to a slight head shave to bring it up a little bit, i'd like a little higher than 8:1. That way i can put my useless adj cam gear to use. i knew they sold the pistons, i just didnt know if they were made specifically for the combination (ABA block, G60 head) or if there was a better piston elsewhere.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

the bracket came. it doesn't clear the dipstick tube.
???


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

bend the dipstick tube...
cause thats what I did... just dont bend it too much...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

btw nextproject any piston you buy for the 2.0L ABA block will work for this, it will just determine your compression ratio for the motor...
you can contact ross racing and have them make a different piston, I think the dish in mine was 20CCs...
you might want to contact BBM and ask them about the dish


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah i sent them an email yesterday and got a reply back with the standard "we cant give you information about products we dont sell" something like that anyway, im not ready to buy them yet, im still in the process of getting the bottom end, but i WILL call them before i buy. i was curious as to the metal used, silicone content etc, im no metallurgist but i had read in sport compact car a while back about negative effects of having too high/too low silicone content. it was just out of curiosity. maybe they were just really busy. i'd like 8.5:1 CR but maybe 8:1 is best given that its boosting from practically idle at WOT. probably safer at that CR, too.
did you get your pistons through BBM or directly from Ross?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (nextproject)*

If you need pistons just contact me on this account or the INA account.I can get pretty much any bore,CR or CH you want.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

listen to OD
here is the ross racing website's statement on their forgings:
All ROSS Racing Pistons (since 1985) have been forged from 2618 billet bar stock and have been heat treated and aged to a T61 condition (2618-T61). 2618-T61 is the material that is used when fatigue resistance and durability are of prime importance by all premium racing piston manufacturers. This material has less than 1% silicon particulate content. High silicon content pistons (forged from 4032 or MS75) will not stand up to the most extreme stress placed on many racing pistons. If a crack starts to form in a high silicon piston it will continue until the piston experiences a catastrophic failure. Simply stated, adding sand to the aluminum only makes it more brittle. In the rare instance of a 2618-T61 piston cracking, the crack will continue to an area where the stress is not as great and will then stop. Another advantage of 2618-T61 over the high silicon pistons is the ability to keep its shape under extreme pressure and high RPM's. "Skirt Shrinking" is not a problem with ROSS Racing Pistons.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

thanks for that, over in asian-import land i never really heard of people using ross pistons, it was mainly JE and wisecos. they sound pretty good though, and i have heard of them before.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ive gotten 265 whp out of mine and they work great.
I would recommend having the block cut with a .003 clearance instead of the .005 because they kinda eat oil, but that is to be expected with forged jobs (and the fact that mine is currently N/A). If I put the supercharger on I think it will eat less oil (but more fuel)...


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i think i'll be going with some JE pistons from with the skirt and tops coated. its only an extra 152/set for both coatings. so a .003 piston/wall clearance?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_so a .003 piston/wall clearance? 

Thats the job of the machine shop.
When they get the JE's they should be able to gauge the clearance.If not run away....


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

the machine shop will cut the bore with the proper clearance.
the ross racing pistons specs said .005 but everyone that has done them twice has said .003 to prevent oil consumption


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeesh how much oil are we talking about at ross' specs? i'll make sure to make a note of that, thanks alot.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I have been through 4 quarts in 4000 miles, so relatively a quart every 4000 miles.
It could be more, i did an oil change recently and I was missing some oil


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

yowtch


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I know a guy that eats 12 quarts per oil change, but he has JE's


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

wow so i guess its a very good idea to go with the .003" clearance. any downside to this compensation? or is it possibly just a miscalculation on the part of the manufacturer?
on another note, i guess i shoulda asked here before i asked elsewhere. do the ABA cranks have ANY tendencies to shear their crank keyways? would it be prudent to have dowels installed while its all apart?

also, what are you guys using for break-in oil? i've read alot of material saying do NOT use ANY kind of detergent motor oil. and isnt there some kind of additive out there (im sure theres millions really) that should be added to the first oil? i'd rather figure all this out now. i dont burn any at all right now (knock on wood. 104k stock engine) i'd really like to keep it that way.


_Modified by nextproject at 7:25 PM 5-1-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

dinosaur oil, non synthetic, 10W-30 is what I used.
yes you need dowels, .005 is for people running a lot of boost (over 16), they also make you adjust the rings for the boost level. the .005 allows for more expansion of the piston under higher boost levels.
I also recommend that you shave more off of the second ring (the non chromoly one) of the piston. giving it a 25% extra gap will dissipate heat quicker if you plan on boosting it.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

hey whats the best bearings money can buy? lol, i just dont want to skimp on bearings and would like to get my ducks in a row before its too late to wait for a response to this. rod and main bearings. i would know this if i'd been into vw's for a while but since im new to dubs as well as building engines i think its ok for me to ask.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I just ordered the stuff from busdepot.com
worked fine... you have to make sure to get rod bearings with the oil hole


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

ok so i guess these glyco and kolbenschmidt bearings are all that are available? i didnt know if there was some kinda higher performance bearing out there. ever heard of those "toga HP" bearings available through importperformanceparts.net?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

toga = crap, I know someone that spun a rod because of a bad toga bearing.
the supertech valves on IPP are very nice though!


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

thank you for telling me that, im glad i asked also. glyco it is. im wondering if i should be going with larger valves also, or if the standard port/polish from lr engineering would suffice. im excited about this but i really only want to do it once, maybe twice but the second time would be a different engine altogether.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

ok got a question here...do i need the aba exhaust manifold or just the downpipe?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you dont need either, standard G60 exhaust works fine =-)
all I did was take the bolt and grind it down so it didnt hit the tunnel
the manifold from the 8V does have the cool heatshield but I like the standard G60 cast deal... it deals with heat just fine...
woot for page 11


_Modified by potatonet at 9:01 PM 5-5-2008_


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

well i took the plunge, kinda, i paid for half of my OBD1 aba bottom end today. lol. another week or so and i'll pay the rest, then start saving up for the pistons. after that one paycheck oughtta pay for all the ancillary parts and ARP hardware. then its off to the machine shop! shipping company is coming to pick up the S2000 this weekend and taking her to canada.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

1/2? how much was the bottom end?
you can use the stock rods, they are forged from the factory, just get them shot peened. (if you are going to get new rods get pauter rods...)
















ARP across the engine...
main studs (you have to get these because the old main studs are hard to get and are crap)
Rod bolts (duh)
head studs(another duh)
crank gear bolt (from 4g63 mitsu motor, washer needs to be ground)
you dont need ARP bolts for anything else... Im pretty sure...
ARP ftw =-)


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i paid 250 shipped for my bottom end. and yes, all the ARP hardware you mentioned is already included in my "plan". didnt know about the 4g63 crank bolt though. i assume you mean a new one right? lol, because i have a couple of old ones laying around from the eagle talon/awd days of old.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

in speaking of that bolt, why not use a regular washer?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you have a couple of ARP 4g63 harmonic balancer bolts laying around?
wtf....
you can use a regular washer because the ARP one is 4mm thick, it spaces the nut perfectly for the crankshaft threads.
you could stack a few but I just ground the one it comes with down to fit.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

no, i thought you meant a stock/oe harmonic balancer bolt. i'll remember that though. Im going to the virgin islands for a week guys, have fun on here and on this thread, cant wait to see what has happened in a week. good luck to you all and your builds.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

been gone for a week. updates? i just received an email from LR Engineering regarding questions about larger valves. depending on gains with a "street" cam (268/260, maybe something SLIGHTLY wilder) i may go that route on the head in addition to the ABA bottom end. how was everyone's week?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

good
if you are going to get valves get the 42/35's from techtonics tuning (the machine shop should be able to put in new seats, though it will be tight)
or get 41/34's from importperformanceparts.net
either way you will need 7mm valve guides, valve spring retainers, and spring retainer clips.
I used my autotech springs (that I already had) on the modified head. if you are doing anything with bigger valves you need to put in the time to have it ported properly.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah i believe this guy knows his shiz. i dont want to go too wild so i think i'll go with the 41/34s, like i said, if the price isnt too insane. the block is REALLY the only thing i want to do once. if i cant afford the big valve'd head then i'll just get it ported with the 7mm stems/guides and cam. just depends on the price i guess.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

the guides and stuff are for the bigger valves (they have smaller stems than the stock 8mm)


----------



## traviszylstra (Dec 11, 2007)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Wow. I have read through this whole thing and now my eyes hurt... I just got a G60 and it NEEDS an ABA (rod knock in 1.8). I am going to use my g60 head and stock (for now) charger. I am wondering what I should use to make the best bang for the buck (pistons, gaskets, throw away stock head...) I work in a machine shop so I can do pretty much whatever I want I have just never tried anything like this before. I also have a eurosport cam thats kinda lumpy at idle, dont know specs though. Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i would def. figure out what kinda cam that is. basically just do what everyone else on here is doing. there isnt much fluctuation in prices. an aba with g60 head is pretty much bang for the buck right there. if you can port/polish then you'll save money right there. open up your intake manifold also. i love this thread, its my second home. cant wait til people start finishing their builds so we can see some results.


----------



## traviszylstra (Dec 11, 2007)

The cam came off of a 85 GTI which is where I got the ABA. Someone else had converted the car in the past and I bought it wrecked. Is the cam going to cause me problems being that it was from a N/A application? I guess I could try it and if I dont like, just switch it back. So basically my biggest question about the engine build is, Should I use lower compression pistons or will stacking gaskets work and if so how many?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

use lower compression pistons, I almost stacked gaskets but when boosting a car its always a bad idea.
done use that cam, it could be from a solid lifter car which is why its causing trouble.
everything I did was best bang for buck, it was bout 3k in the end.


----------



## traviszylstra (Dec 11, 2007)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Screw it! Gonna do it all right. Balanced blueprinted ported and polished 8.5:1. Done deal. Mabye a custom grind on the cam thanks to my homies at delta cams.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

welcome to the ABA bottom end thread, lol. 
is there necessary "clearancing" of the hood or its skeleton to accomodate the taller block? i have upgraded mounts so its not like it'll be bouncing around, but i've heard people voice concerns. i dont know if this has already been covered in this thread.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

fits my corrado fine


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

good to know. thanks.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

the alternator cover will hit the hood


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

oh yeah, I never had the alternator cover..., oh well, mine fits


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*

i wish i had known that this thread exsisted sooner... i've been running the SC ABA set up for 2 years... haha. unfortunately, I probably can't answer all the questions I should be able to... but feel free to ask.
edit: i can always scan in the jibberish written on my machine shop reciept if it helps...


_Modified by KT54g60 at 7:08 PM 5-20-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wow thats cool, you live like 3 hours from me...
there is a kid at my school with another lysholm, Im not sure if he did the 2.0L thing tho...


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_wow thats cool, you live like 3 hours from me...
there is a kid at my school with another lysholm, Im not sure if he did the 2.0L thing tho...

idk if you are north or south (bad at geography), but the 3 of us should meet up. You know, cruise around and drive people crazy w/ the sound of our cars, get lunch, compare notes... it's rare to see a corrado, let alone one w/ a similar set-up. I'm down in Woodland Hills 91303. Let me know -K


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

Im in san luis, 3 hours north.
mine is currently chargerless for school purposes (gas = cheaper)
my charger wont go on till Im north =-(


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

problem?








(edit: with the hose)


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

oh, and someone tell me where this goes? can't find it in the bently.


----------



## aznsins666 (Feb 13, 2005)

if i remember correctly, that holds the a/c hose in place...if im right that is...


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

should not be a problem with a T-clamp just make sure its tight.
that is an AC hose holder yes


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

yah, i know what it is, i just need to know what it bolt to. the top starter bolt seems like the right spot but i don't remember it being there when i took it off.
i had to tug on the hose to get it up there, hope it will be fine.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

no idea where it goes... my motor is too modded... it went on the bracket for the G60 AFAIK


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

well, the nickel plating was a failure. waste of 100 bucks.
parts turned black. guess the original plating wasnt stipped all the way or something. 
guess i'll just paint them.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

wait it turned black?
dude... they messed up... you can nickel plate anything.
PS. Im a materials engineer with an M.S.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i looked under the troubleshooting thing and it said if it turns black it means it had cadmium on it.
oh, i forgot to say that i fixed the dipstick tube. i just got it to twist in the block, so it's pointing at a different angle.
you can see in the pic of the hose.
oh yah, is the stock position for the aba knock sensor behind that hose or to the left? couldn't find it in my friends mk3 bently.


_Modified by deth_core at 8:10 PM 5-27-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I just put it on one of the posts, more towards the stock G60 one on the freeze plug.
I know it had a dedicated post on the ABA but I didnt put it on one.
why was there cadmium on it... that sh}t is soo bad for you...
the dipstick tube is not a twist in... its a push in...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

dunno, whatever, the coating from the factory. i think one of the parts had a cadmium coating and contaminated the solution. 
also, i had no idea that the whole batch was only enough to coat 150 sq in. either, which sucks.
i will stick with painting from now on.
i know the tube is pressed in, i was just saying that i twisted it so it's turned off to the side. it's now out of the way of the bracket.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you are correct, the coating from the factory is cadmium, its the gold coating


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

been making progress. but i have another problem.
the intermediate shaft turns fine, the oil pump turns fine, and the distributer turns fine. except when i but the dizzy in, the int. shaft feels all rough and the dizzy kinda wobbles around.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

that doesnt sound good. maybe something isnt seated all the way, does the dizzy seat all the way down? whats the combination you are using? (i.e. IM shaft and distributor)
im STILL WAITING on my ABA bottom end. sheesh.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

pg distributor w/aba gear + TT adapter ring, aba int.shaft.
yah, it's seated all the way, i've trid pulling it out a bit, pushing down on the base, pulling up on the rotor, etc.
hope i didn't put the gear on upside down, that would be dumb of me.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

sounds like a possibility, personally im going to swap the guts of a PG dizzy with the ABA housing. is it possible to put the gear on upside down? does it matter? a gear is a gear, right?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i checked, it's right.
yes, it can be upside down. look:


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

audi 3a dizzy for the win


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

is that just what you're running? or is that a dizzy that requires no modding whatsoever and interfaces properly with digi1?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

ok, i tried tightening the dizzy down all the way; doesn't even move.
i put the ABA dizzy in, spins perfect.
what the hell.
here they are side by side.








the PG one looks a bit longer?
edit: nope, same length from the waist down. looks like the gear from TT is a bit larger in diameter at the bottom. i'm going to try switching the gears maybe.


_Modified by deth_core at 6:24 PM 6-10-2008_


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yes thats what i was going to say, the bottom looks larger. other than that they look the same.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

sure enough, put the aba's gear on it and it works. i wonder what the hell kinda gear TT sent me.


----------



## 3A_G60_MAN (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (deth_core)*

I'm doing a 3A block 2ltr engine and wasn't sure about the dizzy internals with the G60 ECU so swapped the timing wheel and electronics over from a pg dizzy, kept the 3A housing, gear and shaft.The 3A timing wheel had 071 stamped in it where as the G60 item had 069.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (3A_G60_MAN)*

I think I remembered reading a while back that the 3a Dist is a direct replacement. Basically, the reason that the ABA Dist can't be used directly is because it has only 1 window for the hall trigger. If the 3a is not a fixed dist (i.e. had a vacuum advance) then it would have needed to be fixed.
Either way, it sounds like you have the right parts if the dist fits in the hole, the gears mesh properly and the trigger wheel has 4 windows. 
People have also talked about just switching the ABA pickup with a 4 window one from say the pg, etc, but I have never had much luck in removing the ABA wheel w/o bending it up. Other dist, were less of a problem removing the wheel...
Shawn


----------



## 3A_G60_MAN (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Oh well it's nice and clean now.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

3a is a direct swap as far as the distributor.
I know cause I have one =-)


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

i'll keep my eyes peeled for one.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

my PG dizzy was shot so i got a new one, and the one on the aba block got busted during freight so i couldn't use it to swap the internals.
that's why i got the TT adapter kit. otherwise i would have gone with the 3A.


----------



## 16v Drakes (May 26, 2008)

*Re: (deth_core)*

hi could it be that the int shaft drives the oil pump also that why it feel not smooth


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah i'd get a micrometer and check all the dimensions. and then double check the oil pump, luckily you saw this before you dropped it in the car.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i checked the oil pump and the int. shaft when i was prepping the block. the oil pump is new i think. pretty soon i'll measure the gears and take pics to show you guys the problem.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

okay, checkums.








the gear from TT is too wide. (couldn't find the micrometer)... see how it's recessed in there? the gear was grinding against the edge.
(i think)


_Modified by deth_core at 6:14 PM 6-19-2008_


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

3A ftw


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_audi 3a dizzy for the win


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_3A ftw

you losin it, dude?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

no just making sure people do it the right way the first time...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

oh... duh. i totally forgot to put the 3a option on the first page. i'll fix that.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

wonder if it was just yours that was like this? i mean i really doubt that it would be, i guess it IS 3A dizzy ftw after all.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (nextproject)*

There is nothing wrong with with using the ABA gear on the G60 Dist. You just need to use the TT adapter becuase the G60 Dist is a slightly smaller diameter than the ABA block's hole.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

the adapter works fine. just not the gear they gave me.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_the adapter works fine. just not the gear they gave me.

Understood. Not sure what gear they sent you, but it must not be an ABA gear or must be some aftermarket gear that was not made precisely. I know for a fact that the factory ABA gears work perfectly. It has been done a billion times.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

the gear i pulled off the aba dizzy works. i don't know why i bought the adapter with the new gear.
the TT gear will not work with the aba dizzy either. so yah. who knows what it is.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

so bottom line is, get a g60 dizzy, and an aba dizzy, and the TT adapter but NOT the gear. and install the ABA geat and TT adapter onto the g60 dizzy. or find a "rareish" audi 3A dizzy. correct?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_so bottom line is, get a g60 dizzy, and an aba dizzy, and the TT adapter but NOT the gear. and install the ABA geat and TT adapter onto the g60 dizzy. or find a "rareish" audi 3A dizzy. correct?

correct.
or swap the guts from the pg dizzy into the aba dizzy housing and use the aba's gear, or the pg gear if you modify the pg int. shaft to work in the aba block.
an aba dizzy shouldn't be difficult to find at a scrapyard. 
i think my issue with TT's gear might be an isolated incident, i'm sure people who have been buying the gear+adapter haven't had the same problem or TT would have fixed it.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (aznsins666)*

anyone have a better way of securing the alternator yet? i read through the first few pages and it seems that everyone is just leaving out the bottom bolt...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i don't feel good about leaving out the bottom bolt but it looks like pretty much the only option.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

moving on...
here's how far i am now. college is finally over for now so i'll have it going soon.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

looking very nice, i like the color coordination and cleanliness. good job!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

thanks dude.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (deth_core)*

well, i just put on a fresh head (lysholm set up) and we can't seem to get the idle down to where it should be... any thoughts on this? it runs great, but when i take it out of gear (say coming to a stop at a red light) it dips real low (like 500 rpms) and then bounces back up and sits at 1200rpms for idle... it's set at 6BTDC at the moment and i'm running a techtonics tuning 260 street cam w/ SNS stage 5 chip. Any advice?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

are you running an ISV?


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

well looks like its going be MORE time before i can start this build, my ABA bottom end purchase fell through, guy has had my money for the last month and i just now get the excuse "man it weighed WAY more than i expected and they shipped it back to me and i had to pick it up, im just going to refund the money, sorry man!". so now i have to start all over looking for a bottom end. and hopefully someone doesnt rip me off and send me a non-forged one.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_are you running an ISV?

yes


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_well looks like its going be MORE time before i can start this build, my ABA bottom end purchase fell through, guy has had my money for the last month and i just now get the excuse "man it weighed WAY more than i expected and they shipped it back to me and i had to pick it up, im just going to refund the money, sorry man!". so now i have to start all over looking for a bottom end. and hopefully someone doesnt rip me off and send me a non-forged one.

can't you just go to a local u-pull it yard and look for a jetta? that's how i got mine. lots of yards also keep some sort of inventory now, so you might be able to call around. grab a phone book. i got my bottom end out of a low-mileage 95 jetta, but i did have to drive 6 hours to pick it up.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah problem is my c wont accomodate an engine and i dont really know anyone with a truck.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_yeah problem is my c wont accomodate an engine and i dont really know anyone with a truck.

really? i fit the entire ABA engine in my car... with the valve cover and intake manifold still on... the hardest part was lifting it out once we got home... i don't remember if i folded down the back seats or not... but it definitely fit. my car sat a little lower for the ride home for sure.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I put the aba block in the trunk of my C
and kt... is the thing silenced?


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
and kt... is the thing silenced?

nope


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (KT54g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KT54g60* »_
nope

good.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_yeah problem is my c wont accomodate an engine and i dont really know anyone with a truck.

you can do it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
put down some old blankets and crap so residual fluids don't get all over your trunk.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

where you putting the alternator?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

me? stock location. it's not on there right now because i kinda messed it up while trying to take the bearings off. might have to buy a new alternator or try to rebuild another used one.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

huh I have an alternator... but its like 300 miles away at another place... grrrr oh well
anyway...
kt
- non silenced lisholm with an ISV and an idle of 1200, stage V chip and what size injectors...
you better be running 30 lb injectors... my guess is that your ISV is not functioning properly because my car does that without the ISV on the car


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_
- non silenced lisholm with an ISV and an idle of 1200, stage V chip and what size injectors...
you better be running 30 lb injectors... my guess is that your ISV is not functioning properly because my car does that without the ISV on the car

green tops (42lb)


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

too much fuel, do you have a wideband?
you will find that you are running 9.5:1 at idle, get an adjustable fpr or smaller injectors


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah i guess thats worst case, using the C to get the engine, i just gotta hurry up and DO it. i mean i've actually got the head ready to send to the shop, just gotta get the bottom end. i'll have to lift the rear of the car back up off the tires, lol.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_too much fuel, do you have a wideband?
you will find that you are running 9.5:1 at idle, get an adjustable fpr or smaller injectors

mmmmm, i don't know... i've had the green tops for over two years and this seems to be a new problem or an exsisting problem that has gotten much worse... besides, on the dyno the mixture was consistent.
if i'm running rich, it's only slightly.
we only changed out an identical head
upgrading the cam from stock to TT260 street.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (KT54g60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KT54g60* »_well, i just put on a fresh head (lysholm set up) and we can't seem to get the idle down to where it should be... any thoughts on this? it runs great, but when i take it out of gear (say coming to a stop at a red light) it dips real low (like 500 rpms) and then bounces back up and sits at 1200rpms for idle... it's set at 6BTDC at the moment and i'm running a techtonics tuning 260 street cam w/ SNS stage 5 chip. Any advice?

you know. now that think of it, that's what my car was doing when the timing was off. i think the idle screw need adjusting too.
though i don't remember exactly. it was a while back.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

quick question, i have access to a CHEAP built OBD2 aba bottom end, but its worth it for the forged rods and knife-edged autotech crank, i can sell the pistons for a little less than the cost of the new pistons (wrong CR/ 10.0:1) and just get the cylinders re-honed.
sounds like a deal and its pretty close by, but are there ANY other differences between the OBD1 and OBD2 ABA's? other than the forged internals? any at ALL?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

OBD I had forged internals too...
and oil squirters for the pistons


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

right thats what i said, isnt it? so the forged internals AND oil squirters? and it shouldnt be too hard to modify the OBD2 block for oil squirters, right? if all these parts are quality like im being told they are then this should be worth the price just for the parts themselves.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

Im pretty sure OBD II doesnt have the oil paths for the oil squirters...


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*

FYI. switched out the ISV for a properly working one- no change. new silicone vacume hoses... no change... idle screw all the way in still no change... adjusted the timing from 6 BTDC to 5.5 BTDC and it's idling perfectly. Not sure if the timing light is slightly off or what, but the problem is fixed. 
another issue- my alternator is hitting/rubbing the inside of the hood (no dent though). reasons why:
1. ABA block increases the height
2. motor mount upgrades increased the height
3. alternoator is sitting on bottom bolt since mid-bolt was sheared off, only the top bolt is actually attached

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

your cover should hit if you have a cover.... the alt itself should not hit...
I have the ABA and a solid front and I dont hit...
I would recommend working on those bolts


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

okay well thanks for that tidbit of info, i'll have to seriously consider if the block is worth it for just the parts alone, (crank/rods/pistons) or if i should just pass on it.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

pass it on, build a motor with parts that you want, not cheap ones...
if you dont have the motor pieces by next september you can buy my motor =-)


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah im just going to get my mom's truck from her this week and drive on down to pull a part (i'll call in sick) and get one of their engines for 130 bucks.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

thats a good way to do it...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)




----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_and it shouldnt be too hard to modify the OBD2 block for oil squirters, right?

Not at all.Just take it to a machine shop and tell them where you want the squirters.The channel for the oil squirters is there...it just needs to be tapped. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

would the machine shops know where this channel is in order to drill? thanks for the info!


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_would the machine shops know where this channel is in order to drill? thanks for the info!

The channel is visible BUT I would recommend taking them a damaged block or something just so they dont mess it up.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

yeah... you can have my G60 block =-) if you want to come to cali to get it...
or I could take a picture...


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

eh i guess i'll just pass on the OBD2 block, i havent get gotten my refund for the FIRST bottom end i paid for. i guess i need to stop talking about this on the thread, i dont want to ruin the informative content of this thread with my un-related banter.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

don't worry about it, this is what the thread is for. i'm putting all the tech info on page 1. the rest of the thread is to bullsh*t and post build pics, etc etc.
get the ODB1 block.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

which lower timing belt cover did you guys use? i thought i read somewhere that you need to use the ABA one, which i thought i had but turns out i have two PG covers.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_which lower timing belt cover did you guys use? i thought i read somewhere that you need to use the ABA one, which i thought i had but turns out i have two PG covers.

For the ABA block only the ABA lower timing belt cover will work.The PG will be too short.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

thanks issam


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

I have followed this post loosely since it started. I have an aba block in a mk2 g60. I am having trouble with the vbelt on the crank. Its way to close to the frame rail now. I cant get a belt on it. Should there be any reason why it sticks further out than that 1.8 block does?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_which lower timing belt cover did you guys use? i thought i read somewhere that you need to use the ABA one, which i thought i had but turns out i have two PG covers.

Yea, ABA. You need the metal backing from the ABA as well as the plastic.
I have one or two sets (I think) if you need.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Danno13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Danno13* »_I have followed this post loosely since it started. I have an aba block in a mk2 g60. I am having trouble with the vbelt on the crank. Its way to close to the frame rail now. I cant get a belt on it. Should there be any reason why it sticks further out than that 1.8 block does?

Yea, the Mk2 never had a serp belt setup and you now have a v belt outside of that.
I think most people needed to "clearance" the frame rail a bit with a BFH.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

big fat hammer?


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

arent we just using the crank pulley from the PG block bolting onto the actual timing gear from the ABA?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
Yea, ABA. You need the metal backing from the ABA as well as the plastic.
I have one or two sets (I think) if you need.

i'm not going to use the rear cover.
just found the lower aba cover on ebay for a few bucks.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_arent we just using the crank pulley from the PG block bolting onto the actual timing gear from the ABA?

looks like they're the same size. i bolted up the aba one to test fit and it appears to be fine.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

they are the same between the ABA and the G60
replace it if you havent though, dont want to worry about a bad crank gear (mine was bad on my G60 and caused me loads of grief)


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_big fat hammer?
 To put it politely


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_they are the same between the ABA and the G60
replace it if you havent though, dont want to worry about a bad crank gear (mine was bad on my G60 and caused me loads of grief)

you talkin about the pulley or the gear? the timing gears are the same AFAIK. the pulleys are not the same, but seem to be interchangeable. thought that i read somewhere that you had to use the ABA pulley or get a different belt to run the PG pulley, they look the same size and the aba one fit fine. i might throw on the PG pulley to make sure- unless someone already knows for sure.
the ABA pulley is one piece, and the PG one has the balancer in it, i thought i also read somewhere that the balancer is needed to prevent belt slippage on the charger or something.
i dunno... shawn?


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

I ran the serp and v-belt fine when it was a 1.8L, Now I am just running into problems with the 2L block


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

there are 2 versions of the ABA crank, a long nose and a snub nose, the long nose is what you have. get a different crank


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

Hrmmm, thats an unlikely solution. Are both of them forged? I have a forged one in there now.
I guess a bfh will be my choice


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i just stripped a couple oil pan bolt holes- on the crank cover.







x1000000
15 ft/lb my ass, f**king bently.


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (deth_core)*

if we had custom alternator brackets made for this 2L set up... how many people would need them and what price range would be acceptable? i haven't done any research yet, but figured if i get one made- i should get 2 or 5 or 20 made... let me know what you guys think. i don't like my single bolt setup.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

why do you need custom alt brackets? i dont want to read all through those 14 pages again, if you're running AC+PS on the G60 head with the g-lader there arent any necessary brackets are there?


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (nextproject)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nextproject* »_if you're running AC+PS on the G60 head with the g-lader there arent any necessary brackets are there?

I'm running PS, but ripped out the AC ages ago... also have a lysholm. the alternator sits in a way that only the top 2 bolts line up to the bracket... leaving the bottom one out. And in my case, only the top bolt is holding it in because the center/middle bolt sheared off.
so yeah, you might not need one... and the people that do might be cool w/ there 2 out of 3 bolts... but hey, that's why i asked... 

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
please *PLEASE save your crankshaft pulley when you X the g60 bottom end* they are interchangeable between the the blocks and i would like one... or two


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

fix the center bolt...
problem solved
mine is held on with 2 bolts and it works dandy =-)


----------



## KT54g60 (Aug 1, 2003)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_fix the center bolt...
problem solved
mine is held on with 2 bolts and it works dandy =-)

well gee, why didn't i think of that... 








we tried to drill out the sheared off bolt and it didn't work... so yeah, i can try to find a G60 alternator bracket or get one made... guess i'll just keep to myself. thanks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

f'n A


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

ebay?
if you have an ABA alternator then I will trade you my corrado one if you buy me a belt =-)
I can run my aba brackets for now... no charger... gotta find that tensioner...
btw did anyone know they made a 95 passat with an ABA motor?
I saw one yesterday at picknpull it was crazy because it has a CRU transmission which as a 4.24:1 final drive...
crazy VW


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

just about done. might have it finished tonight.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

we'll see if it starts up.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

looks good, drive it yet?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

no, i got almost all the way done with it a few days ago, then haven't been able to do anything with it cuz i've been stuck at work.
all i need to do is put fluids in it, then timing, etc.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

haha timing... I havent even got my timing straight yet...

make sure you are adjusting the timing to the boost and CR


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

so it started up fine. idled and revved fine when it was cold but when it warmed up it started running rich then ran on 2-3 cylinders.
any ideas?


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

wonder which 2-3 cylinders it runs on. after it cooled down did you crank it back up? if so did how did it act?

hah! page 15 greatness, its a sign, i really needa get my bottom end so i can start/finish this chapter in the life of my rado.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

didn't start it up after it cooled off. went to bed then i had to get my friends gti goin today. won't be able to work on the corrado till tomorrow morning.
oh yah, the damn thermostat was being a bitch about opening. and i was choking on smoke from sht burning off the exhaust.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i think it varied which cylinders.... just misfiring from being flooded. all the plugs look identical- black soot.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

um... bts sensor and I think G60c had this same problem, how large are the injectors?


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

he's running 42 pounders with a 3 bar fpr. he has another thread regarding this.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

thats your problem, g60C had the same size injectors and the same running issues, he switched to 30# injectors and was fine


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i'll try to figure it out today.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i went ahead and spent all my money on the innovate lm-2.








i hope it's worth it.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

I bought the LM-1 (piece of ****)
I did get it used tho
btw I f-ing hate you


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_I bought the LM-1 (piece of ****)
I did get it used tho


Are you for real with that statement?
I have been running the LM1 for over 3 years and it was a well spent investment and has held up perfectly along with many many others.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*


_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_i went ahead and spent all my money on the innovate lm-2.








i hope it's worth it.

I don't think you will be disappointed.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_I bought the LM-1 (piece of ****)
I did get it used tho

maybe it was broken. probably why it got sold to you. my friend has an lm1 and it works well.

_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_btw I f-ing hate you


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

so i thought i only had one leak, coming from the oil filter- fixed that. then i noticed i'm leaking coolant from the thermostat housing. THEN i noticed some oil on the flywheel cover, wiped it off, then noticed more oil on it later. 
if the rear main seal is bad i'm going to kill myself. the motor is only supposed to have 4k on it.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

*Re: (deth_core)*

dude.... you didnt replace the seals?
man....


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i replaced pretty much every seal except the main seals.
it's probably just the oil pan, not the rear main seal.
i don't understand why the thermostat flange was leaking, but it stopped for now. i might just silicone the hell out of it.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

if its a brand new one the only thing I can think of is that the bolts arent to the 7 ft lb rating or one is cross threaded or stripped.
if its used, its warped


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

the flange and thermostat and o ring are new. maybe i put the seal on wrong or something.
i don't think there's anything seriously wrong, i was just pissed about fixing leaks.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

coolant leak- fixed (i hope... lots of rtv)
oil filter/cooler leak- fixed
the third leak IS from the oil pan and not the rear main. i'll have that patched up tonight.
say, where do you guys get an rpm signal from? coil? ecu? hall?
the wideband is coming in today and i want to get it all hooked up and going tonight.


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

most standard electronics take their signal from somewhere on the coil. especially if its an older engine management like ours.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

i searched outside of the g60 forum and found how to get the signal from the coil. thx http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
all the leaks are supposedly fixed now, thought i was going to have them done a lot sooner, so no wideband til saturday.








hopefully i can this figured out and get ahold of john to reburn my chip.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

the oil pan leak is still there. i took the oil pan off, put on some rtv and made sure the bolts were tight.
i think it only leaks when the car is jacked up though


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

you shouldnt need RTV, just a new gasket and a clean oil pan...
rtv = bad...


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

it's a new windage tray.
yah, i don't like using rtv much.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

got the wideband going. says about 10 or 11 cold.
still have to adjust the timing, idle. check for vac/boost leaks etc etc before i do a run.
i have a problem with rpms though. if i'm getting my reading from the coil, i should have it set to 2 pulses per rev, right? at 1k rpm the lm-2 reads like 8k.
rising edge or falling?


----------



## mrkrad (Nov 9, 2000)

*Re: (deth_core)*

scope pin 24 off the ecu harnes.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

does it pulse like the (-) coil wire should?
thanks.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

i think it is the - wire to the tach


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

#24 is blank.
....................................


----------



## Pete O. Arguelles (Jul 5, 2000)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Potatonet I too have seen a 95 ABA Passat at the local picknpull and was surprised to see it. I thought I new the passat well but apperently not.
Could this be the best engine/trans combo to rebuild. Being in a Passat it should have the oil piston squirters and all the forged internals plus a short 4.24 tranny.


----------



## traviszylstra (Dec 11, 2007)

So I have beed reading for a long time know and have only one question. I am using a set of 9:1 JE pistons in my ABA and the G60 head. Will my compession be too high or should I use the BBM thick head gasket for the 2.0 16V?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

9:1 JE will be fine for 12-14 psi anything above that and I would reccomend a large FMIC and methanol injection due to heat and compression.
you can go the thick headgasket if you want more than 16 psi, but Im telling you after 265 hp on my car on 14 psi, it was crazy fast and I dont need that much power


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

well i wont lie, if there were 8 days in a week i'd be workin 7 of em and maybe then i'd have bought my engine by now.
i think given the amazing mechanical condition of my bottom end i'll end up buying the bottom end, building it up, and letting it sit for a little bit before putting it in, i'll get the headwork done first and the cam and intake and chip and install those first. then i guess later on i'll put the top end (refreshed) on top of the ABA bottom. chattanooga isnt exactly "dub country" so its been a little hard to find a place that keeps older vws around for me to pick through. kinda feel like i been draggin my feet, lol. this thread is going to be a huge help when i get around to it though.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

Im running an N/A 7.75:1 CR 2.0L with a ported head right now.... its the bomb digity


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_Im running an N/A 7.75:1 CR 2.0L with a ported head right now.... its the bomb digity

still n/a?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

do you have any idea how hard it is to get one of those superchargers?
I also had one then sold it... 8mpg was not too great, but now I want my power back


----------



## traviszylstra (Dec 11, 2007)

Well I have found that my car allready has the 65mm charger pulley on it, I am not sure of the realistic boost numbers and how that will work with the compression ratio. I did however go to the local "tuner" shop and talk to them for a bit and they said as long as the car is porperly tuned I should not have any issues. Big FMIC is a must... Have not found much info on them here however and kits are next to impossible to find so I am guessing a univedrsal kit will be the way?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

frozenboost.com has all sorts of parts for air/air and air/water, pretty cheap.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

my universal worked, just make sure you get the pipes WELDED!!!


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

well i have found an engine in nashville, just got TONS of pics of the bearing surfaces, crank journals, and cylinder walls today. looks like i have found my baby, i got excited when i saw the oil squirters, i knew she was mine. 
oh yeah and this is my thousandth post too. i spend way too much time on here. i think i'll be picking the engine up in a couple of weeks. its only in nashville. bout 5 hours round trip. then its time to start buying parts and sending parts off to the shops!


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

sweet http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## nextproject (Nov 18, 2007)

yeah i almost feel like posting the pics on here, but there are over 20 of them, he took pics of each and every bearing and every cylinder wall, said the cross-hatch pattern from the factory hone was still there as well as being stock bore, never rebuilt. i guess good things DO come to those who wait.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

post some up.
oh, i figured out my "oil leak" for reals this time. turns out it was brake fluid. clutch slave was shot.


----------



## michaelss (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist (deth_core)*

sweet!!!


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: ABA Block Build-up. parts, etc. checklist (michaelss)*

so how does this car run?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

boost leak, timing is off, needs an alignment way bad.
got some new wheels back home so when i get them on and get some spacers, i'll work on it.
also just got a 3bar map and rpm clamp for my wideband so i can do some data-logging.


----------



## CorradoFuhrer (Mar 21, 2002)

*Re: (deth_core)*

well im debating putting an aba block in my g60, or just putting a aba motor with a mark4 intake manifold on there and doing g60. Is it worth the custom work and head ache? cuz i can get an aba block for 45 bucks or the longblock motor (with the mk4 manifold put on there) for around a hundred. 
Seems like there is a lot of custom work, and forge pistons arnt cheap. I can get a longblock g60 motor for 300 bucks with 80k on it, but the kicker is, is that my g60 head is still in good shape... its just the block that is siezed.
does anyone have any footage or dyno numbers of an aba block g60 turbo? 
ive seen the cross flow heads put on a g60 block and boosted - seems to be very popular. More so than the ABA. 
I'm thinking I may just get the ABA 93 block and start building a 16v. I just wanted to get something together so I can at least get the car driveable till i can save up an appropriate ammount of money to begin my project. 
I just don't want to take on something thats more bs that i want to deal with. Seems like you've had your hands full with this for quite some time now.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

if you're going to go crossflow, might as well be 16v.
it only took me so long because i had work and college and no money. also was my first motor swap.


----------



## vwgli16vracer (Dec 3, 2005)

*Re: (deth_core)*

so did you get all the bugs worked out?


----------



## 91GSiXTY (Jun 11, 2001)

*Re: (vwgli16vracer)*

Quick question guys.
I'll be using this TB (i think its a auto vr obd1).









Question is if i'm running sns stgV do i have to add a WOT switch and idle sw?


----------



## Tim.vw. (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: (91GSiXTY)*

Any updates? kinda a dead topic. what happened with the harmonic balancer off the g60, onto the aba. because i have a eurosport light weight pully. no one else running one of these?


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

Sorry, I haven't checked my posts in like a million years.
the g60 balancer/pully works on the aba, if that's what you're asking.


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (91GSiXTY)*


_Quote, originally posted by *91GSiXTY* »_Question is if i'm running sns stgV do i have to add a WOT switch and idle sw?

Pretty sure the sns stage V doesn't use the WOT switch.


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

well look who it is...
hi deth


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: (potatonet)*

well well... taternet
sup


----------



## Tim.vw. (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: (deth_core)*

well i knew the stock balancer setup would work, but i have a eurosport lightweight pully for an aba, i had seen it mentioned that the harmoic balancer had something to do with the supercharger belt. (keeping it on due to vibration) something along those lines. also my machine shop cut the "deck" somethin small, and they said it wouldnt be much compression, 9.5-1 with the forged pistons, but luckly the tt hi flow valve upgrade kit comes with domed valves. fyi. anyone know the difference in compression between stock and TT hi flows valves?


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

bout .2


----------



## Tim.vw. (Dec 9, 2008)

*Re: (potatonet)*

Nice thank you very much. Any idea on the eurosport pully on a g60


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

if its the same diameter as the g60 pulley and its got a v belt pulley as well then it should work


----------



## georgeolico (May 22, 2006)

up


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

back from the dead...:screwy:

can you see the diference is these crankshafts?
taken from this topic









and the one from my 2E









also quoting issam abed regarding 2e engine:


> The 2E engine = Europe's ABA engine.
> It uses the same block as the ABF/ABK/ABT engines just that it was counterflow not cross flow.The advantage the 2E engine has over other counterflow engines is that it has MUCH BIGGER Oval intake ports instead of the regular circular units like the PG & it comes with its own fuel rail + adaptation for a DBC throttle body.


any more opinions here?i have a 2e head,that i could port and that would be great since the pg is still on the car and that way the car is still operational but i dont want to "downgrade" by doing that...
what is a DBC throtle body?dbc?

with this head a audi 80 manifold should be used,are they better flowing than g60?
pic of one:








i bought volvo s4 injectors for my build,can i use them on this manifold?
this is the one from 2e
will they fit?


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

also,intake valves looks 39mm, not 40 like everybody says


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

anyone? 

and does anybody lowered compression by removing material on the combustion chamber?or try that grooves thing to have better combustion?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

carrizog60 said:


> back from the dead...:screwy:
> 
> can you see the diference is these crankshafts?
> taken from this topic


 Yes, both are forged, but one has a 60-2 Trigger wheel and the other does not.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

carrizog60 said:


> anyone?
> 
> and does anybody lowered compression by removing material on the combustion chamber?


 Not recommended, but yes it has and can be done. I would not try and gain more than 1/2 pt CR that way IMO


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

sdezego said:


> Yes, both are forged, but one has a 60-2 Trigger wheel and the other does not.


 what is that?for what? 

i want to go cheap on this and run "high" compression so i dont want to lower the compression too much. 
9.5:1 would be good,i could remove a bit on the head and the rest on the pistons top... 

my concern right now is about using the 2E head as opposing to what everybody says my head seems to have 39mm intake valves...


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

carrizog60 said:


> what is that?for what?
> 
> i want to go cheap on this and run "high" compression so i dont want to lower the compression too much.
> 9.5:1 would be good,i could remove a bit on the head and the rest on the pistons top...
> ...


 Then use double head gasket from aba. Will lower the compression without any work done piston or head. Also BBM Sells lower compression head gasket too.


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

what about the 2E head? 
always been told that 8v heads had 40mm intake valves,but mine seems to be 39mm:screwy:


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

more reading as give me a 39.5mm size. 
even if is 39mm would i see lower power levels than with a g60 head? 
dont know if it has 7 or 8 mm stems...


----------



## carrizog60 (Sep 13, 2003)

carrizog60 said:


> with this head a audi 80 manifold should be used,are they better flowing than g60?
> pic of one:
> 
> 
> ...


 will they fit? 
do i need just the manifold as all g60 stuff will adapt or is best to search also for a complete like in the picture with fuel rail etc?


----------

