# Synchro Wagon - Starts then dies



## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

86' model - was running well. Lower mileage car and have recently run a full tank of 93 octane fuel with VW fuel cleaner (250+ miles).

The Q starts to idle, add throttlle, bogs, seems to want to misfire, then dies. Will do this 2 or three times, then no start. Wait 5-10 minutes and the sequence will repeat.

Have looked over the vacuum system for leaks extensively, changed the fuel filter (clean for the most part), check grounds at engine block and at intake.

Working to get part number for fuel pump relay - and need voltage and resistance reading for Airflow potentiometer (black plug) and fuel distributor potentiometer (Gray plug).

Also, will check ground on ECU as I did repair body seam leak on drivers side front windshield area - was leaking into driver's foot well area.

Any guidance would be helpful. - Thanks


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Is this while cold and it's on first start up or while warm?

Here are some things that contributed to my idle problem during start up and somewhat while warm.

1. The idle air control valve could be faulty. I know for me it completely changed the way the car ran when it took a crap. If yours happens to be bad, I've got like 4 known working IAC's.

2. Bad injector seals causing a mild vacuum leak especially while cold.

3. Check your brake booster along the bottom on the seam. Something I've noticed on these cars, syncro, 2wd wagon or sedan is that water has a tendency to somehow get to the booster and it rots out the bottom causing a leak that you may never see. Mine had a decent sized hole in it.. I did what I could to patch it up until I swap in a spare I have laying around. This fix made more of a difference than anything else I mentioned.

Something else to check is any fuel lines going to the fuel distributor. It's quite possible that one of the lines collapsed on the inside causing a blockage. Also check the fuel pressure accumulator. 

Hope this helps a little bit. You're certainly on the right track to fixing the problem.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

*86 Quantum*

The symptoms were the same when the engine was warm as cold 

Thanks for the suggestions i will check the idle air control valve this afternoon - what is the best method to check operation ? 

Will also review brake booster - that is interesting.

The fuel pressure accumulator you mention - back by the fuel filter ?

Will report findings.


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

Interesting it's the same warm or cold.. It definitely seems like it's probably fuel related, but stranger things have happened.

For the IAC normally just turning the key to the on position will turn that on and you will be able to hear it when you put your ear to it.. But that doesn't mean it's working right necessarily. Bentley does have a spec on the acceptable ohm range that the unit should have to work properly. 

Yeah the booster thing is strange.. Every time I find one of these cars in a junk yard they always have that same rust/rot on the booster.

And yes the fuel pressure accumulator back by the fuel filter.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

The booster problem may be the problem. The car is originally from Iowa and is somewhat rusted (was probably store indoors a good deal) And since you have seen on all these Synchros.

The reason the brake booster is interesting - I have an itermitent challenge with the clutch pressure dropping..and I know the brake and clutch cylinders all work off the same flow of brake fluid. If the booster has a vacuum leak, it may show up from time to time in the clutch system.

What was your best method to seal up the brake booster ? Clean it up well - and JB weld ?

As I ran fuel cleaner through the tank recently, and power seem to diminish a bit over the last 100 miles, the accumulator may be good thought as well.

All the threads seem to target vacuum leaks first, fuel supply / electrical concerns second.

Thanks


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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

My solution for the booster was pretty much that but a bit more backwoods type fixin haha. I had recently replaced the rear glass in my F250 and it came with a roll of butyl rubber tape to help reseal the window which is crazy tacky and once it sets up is a real pain to remove. So I was lazy and thought hmmmm I'm just going to wad some of this up and press it onto the surface.. It worked and is still working!

I think if you took it out and cleaned it and used some JB weld and maybe a small aluminum or steel patch you'd be in better shape. Other than than I believe Scirocco 16v or later Cabriolets use the same booster. That's the spare I have and I'm going to try it out and see.. I know the master cylinder fits into the Cabriolet booster, but I don't know if the booster will bolt into the car.

But before you pull it out I would get a spray bottle and spray some water down towards the bottom of the booster or spray some starter fluid down there just to see if it changes the idle. Or pinch the vacuum line shut which goes to the booster. That was how I first discovered the problem.

But the fuel cleaner is why I suggested a collapsed rubber line or the accumulator. Could have just been too much for the old rubber parts/diaphragm in the accumulator.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

All good information. Will check it out and let you know what I find. Still have my Bentley from my 84 GTI, so if I need to check the resistance/voltage on the idle air control valve.

Tape is always fun. 3M and Gorilla tape - both probably have stories that would amaze us all.

All the best.


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Easiest test of a brake booster is pull the vacuum line and plug it. You'll lose power braking but you'll get a quick diagnosis. My buddy's QSW had the rotted booster issue. Sounds very similar.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks for the information - after getting the feedback and reading all other forum post pointing to vacuum leaks, will report findings.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Performed the following Trouble shooting:

1. Pulled and plugged Brake Booster line at booster - no help. Inspected the Booster seam and could not find extensive corrosion, hole, or potential leak

2. Pulled ECU - cleaned connections - remounted / removed and cleaned grounds in engine compartment and at NEG post of battery/ NEG post on coil.

3. Replaced a few short sections of 1/8" vacuum line

4. Tested Idle Air control valve - buzzes when key turned to ON position

The Q start performance did improve slightly - will start and run for 3-4 seconds at strong idle - now even runs up a to 2500 RPM without tendency to misfire. Cannot get it to rev, run..and drive home.

It will start one or two times, then NO start. Wait five or ten minutes, and it will start, idle for 3-4 seconds at strong idle - now even runs up a to 2500 RPM without tendency to misfire - then die. 

I had driven the car about 15 miles prior to the breakdown, which occurred when I came back out to the car and tried to start and drive home. Had filled the tank the previous day. It seemed to be loosing some power over the last several drives - around 10% or so..noticeable but not too alarming. 

Potential causes yet to check: !) Fuel accumulator 2) Fuel lines to fuel distributor.

Any other ideas ?

Thanks


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Honestly, I wouldn't do anything to it without verifying that the fuel pressure is correct. Pump running / engine off, engine at idle, and when under power (driving.) 
If you don't have a gauge, parts stores usually do in the tool loaner program. Just make sure that it has the necessary 10mm banjo fitting adapter before you check out.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks, Do you recommend checking pressure at the fuel distributor ? What psi / flow rate is good ?

Appreciate the help = need to get it back home.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

NTSUBride said:


> Thanks, Do you recommend checking pressure at the fuel distributor ?


 Yes, that's where you check it. Specifically, system pressure is checked at the line to the cold-start valve.


> What psi / flow rate is good ?


 Dragging out my Quantum Bentley now.... Line pressure is 5.2-5.6 bar (75-82psi), and should remain in that range regardless of engine load. Residual pressure spec is _minimum_ 2.6 bar (38psi) 10 minutes after engine (or fuel pump) shutdown. 
Differential pressure (with the DPR disconnected) is 0.2-0.5 bar (2.9-7.0psi) below system pressure. (This check requires either a dual-feed pressure gauge w/ shut-off valve, or two gauges that are confirmed to read the same.)


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks - I appreciate the numbers and information on location to pull pressure readings. Will update post as i get the readings.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

O'Reilley's Fuel Pressure kit did not have the 10mm banjo fitting, Auto Zone does not loan a FP kit, and NAPA does not loan a kit. They do sell a kit Balkamp BK7001438 that is made for CIS - would be nice $159 - 4/5 days to get here from Indy warehouse.

Plan now is to pull a few injectors and see how loose they are...perhaps a vacuum leak. Watched some CIS fuel injection info on mercedessource.com and my start symptoms match worn fuel injector seals and poorly operating fuel injectors. The QSW has low mileage and must have sat for periods of its 31 year life - maybe the original injector seals. DougKehl had pointed me in this direction and investigation will be quite simple. 

Thanks for the help Cup, I really appreciate the heads up on the 10mm banjo fitting - saved me a headache or two..


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

No problem. 

BTW: Because I don't need it anymore (I'm no longer a QSW owner), I have this big-a$$ Bentley manual for the thing just sitting around. Wanna buy a used-but-good Quantum Bentley?


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Oh crap, I forgot to mention the other huge PITA thing that always happens to salt belt Quantums:
The hard fuel lines under the battery tray rust out where the bracket holds them and collects salt and water. They are a huge PITA get to so I just cut them high and low and replace the sections with compression fittings and cunifer line or compression to an -6 fittings. No more problems. Just check for dripping fuel inboard of the passenger front wheel well.
If it comes to it, I also have a line on -6 an fittings for fuel accumulators too. Easy to just go -6 an line all the way..


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Oh yeah, that. I remember doing that repair to mine, too. That sucked.


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

I've done it on 4 of mine. The last one I ran new steel line and managed to remove a good chunk of thumb and thumbnail while trying to force the new section up behind the wheel well and it gave way. My own stupid fault, but...


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Pulled and resealed all 5 fuel injectors on a sunny afternoon. 3 of 5 were very brittle. Seemed like 1 of the igniters has been replace (non-BOSCH).

Cleaned tips with berry magic, oiled seals, lucky not to loose a clip, and all installed well. Smiled, hit the key, same result. Quick start and die. Then no start.

Still enjoy the road fix, at least in a relatively safe place. 

Yes, Cup - will need that Bentley. Will seek to check fuel pressure next,

Thanks to all.


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Also, just in case you need to check...swap the fuel pump relay with the blower motor relay below it (rotate it 180*) and the fuel pump will run constantly with key on. That way you can unclip the air box top and reach in and see if the air meter plate is free and if when you push it up, there's fuel going into the chambers (you'll hear the injectors squealing). Not that I've ever needed to do this for hot start issues...


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

I only suggested this because it sounds like maybe you're getting the cold start injector to fire it up but no flow from the main injectors after. Welcome to the super fun world of CIS-e trouble shooting!


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Recently I did open the airbox to see if the metering plate was stuck or dirty. It was clean and seemed to be moving freely. I shot some Berryman in for thrills and when I started the next time, it ran up to about 2,500 - 3,000 for 10 seconds or so then died. CIS liked the juice, so it may be fuel starved.

Could I swap the relays, and just try to start?

Thanks


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Checked poewer to the Fuel pump relay - 12V to both the main or larger connection - did not have additional help to check other voltage in cranking mode - to verify ECU is providing ground. Could not locate the fan blower relay with like connections to swap. Thought of jumping fuel pump relay at circuit board- but held back.

With relay installed, key in accessory position (door buzzer ringing) put my ear on the fuel tank and could not hear any noise.

Have a new fuel pump relay to install next - will advise.

All FCU grounds have been cleaned and reinstalled previously.

Any thoughts from previous experience continues to help. Ready for the road.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Actually, on this version of CIS-E, the ECU doesn't operate the fuel pump relay. The pump relay operates itself - the 5th pin (labelled "1" on the relay diagram) is connected to Terminal 1 (ignition negative.) Just like a tachometer, it detects 'engine running' via the coil negative terminal. Turn key to RUN, pump runs for ~5 seconds. If the relay doesn't 'see' spark operation, it turns the pump off. 
(CIS-E3 (KE-Jetronic with knock control), as well as CIS-Motronic, do operate the pump relay themselves. Simple CIS-E uses the same type of pump relay that way-old CIS used.) 

Jumping the relay is a valid, and safe, test. You can also use the horn relay (labelled '53') in place of the pump relay - you just lose the safety function.


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Right he is. I don't remember the number on the relay, but it's a short grey one with 4 blades, 2 large and 2 small. I think he's right on the horn relay too. I remember that being the same. With the pump continuously running, you should hear the fuel running to and from the fuel distributor and you should feel the resistance and hear the injectors fire when you push up on the plate. 
The fuel pump is easy to get to but you want to get started now on hitting the banjo bolt on the fuel sending unit so you don't break the plastic trying to loosen the bolt. Same with the fuel filter under the car. 
Keep hitting the fittings so you don't tear up the fuel lines when you try to get the fittings to turn.
And it's no problem running the car with the jumper or with the other relay. 
Good luck! 


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks - will let you know if the relay fix works.

Like the 2011 Cincy pics. All the Scirrocos look great - what a line up.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

The fuel pump relay did not fix it. Still starts, revs to idle for 1-2 seconds and dies. Then it will not restart. 

If I wait 15 minutes, it will start again for a few seconds then die. 

I have changed the fuel filter, checked fuel pump fuse. 

Based on the operation of the CIS-E fuel pump - how would I check for pump operation / proper pressure and flow if I cannot get the car to run ? 

Thanks


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

If it's starting at all without fluid, it's at least getting fuel pressure to begin with. That might be fuel coming from the cold start injector since it kind of bypasses the fuel distributor IIRC. I'm still thinking it's a possible fuel distributor issue. Try jumping the fuel pump relay and with the key on, try pushing that air flow plate up and listening for the squeal of the injectors firing. That'll tell you if the fuel is getting through the distributor. And if you do that and then it fires right up after spitting fuel in the chambers, it may tell you it's fuel starved.
My 2 cents...


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Also, don't know why I didn't think of it before..., coolant temp sensor. They're cheap. It's on the water neck on the front of the head. Check the connector pins on the harness for corrosion. The sensor screws up into the neck and thus is subject to leakage and corrosion. I've had plenty fail on me. I ended up using anaerobic thread sealant on one of mine to finally get the leak fixed. They seal with a crush washer and I think they're a 17 or 19 mm hex.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks - will try to pull the air flow plate and see if I can hear injectors squeal. When you mention the key in ON position, do you mean the accessory position, or the crank position ? 

Also, I pulled the temp sensor, cleaned the end with scotch brite, made sure the connector was good and reinstalled. Is there a resistance measurement for the temp sensor ?


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Not in the crank position, just accessory, but you need to jump the relay or swap it with a different relay.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

OK, swapped in a known good fuel pump relay, gained access to the air flow plate, put key in accessory position, and moved the air flow plate up, and could definitely hear a buzz.. let off, plate retracted. Move it again, and the buzz started again. I cleaned the air flow lever (although it was pretty clean) car started a little better breathing all that Berrymans - the went back to start and die mode.


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

If you didn't jump the fuel pump relay then the pump wasn't on when you were checking the air plate/injectors. The pump runs for a second or two when you turn key to accessory but shuts off until it gets the signal from the distributor. If you jump the relay, it'll run continuously so you can check the fuel distributor and injectors. It's a high pitched squeal or groan from the injectors you're looking for. It's plenty loud. The fuel pump is obviously getting fuel to the cold start injector at least or it wouldn't start at all. But it may not be getting to the injectors through the fuel distributor. Just grab a gray relay with the pair of big blades from somewhere on the fuse box and swap it with the fuel pump relay. You'll hear the pump buzz as you go to accessory position. Then check the fuel dizzy/injectors. Might not be the problem but you can cross it off the list. 
If the injectors are firing nicely, I'd move on to checking all the vacuum lines again. Including the ISV and the vacuum pump and lines coming off the head. I know it's frustrating, but unless you have the right tools and spare tested parts, it's a trial and error process. 


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Jumped the fuel pump relay with gray 353 relay - could hear the fuel pump running - and then checked the fuel dizzy - LOUD squeal heard - so the injectors must be getting fuel.

Searched high and low for vacuum leaks - all over the intake area. There was another temp bulb on the lower water neck - and one on the back side of the block

My concern is the injectors may not be firing well - need to clean and check firing pressure..I watched a you tube video from mercedessource.com. Pointed hot No Start could certainly be plugged and dirty injectors. He said it is easy to chase FI components when the fuel injectors themselves are the problem. I did run some VW fuel cleaner through the car in the last tank - and did notice about 10-15% performance decline in the last 50 miles. 

Thanks for all the CIS-e help.


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Cool. That means the distributor isn't blocked up. And yeah, I bought a new set of brass Mercedes injectors for my car and just had to carefully swap the air shroud hats off the old ones. These are the ones I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/150691041220


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Looks good to me. Think I will order a set and carefully pull the lines off my old units, install with new seals, and see how she responds. Thanks


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

I looked at the injectors on the link sent, and realized you meant to remove and replace the tip or "hats" of the injectors on the new ones.

How did you accomplish the swap and did you find the hats stayed on securely ? 

Thanks


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

I pulled the 'hats' off the old injectors very carefully by using the open end of a wrench that fit the round of the injector tightly and pushing the hats off evenly as they're pretty easy to bend. I've also taken them off with pliers with some rubber between the teeth and the hats to keep them from tearing into them and just twisting back and forth while pulling up. They go on the new injectors pretty easily and stay tight. I'm not sure what the ramifications of just not using the hats would be as the early CIS system didn't use them at all.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

I pulled an injector and am catching hell pulling the lines from the injectors. Will soak in PB Blaster and clamp in vise / use long wrench to turn the B nut loose. These may be the original injectors and first pull of the fuel lines. Bought the Mercedes injectors. Will use your method to pull hats and replace on new injectors.

Did also buy a new Coolant Temp Sensor - installed first, and had no effect on start / die sequence. On the fuel injector change.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Update - replaced injectors with Mercedes units - transferred hats over - new O-rings all around. Insured all injector lines were clear - installed on car . Car starts and dies.

To date:
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay - have verified fuel pump is running.
Verified fuel injectors are firing 
Replaced fuel Filter
Replaced Injectors
Replaced Coolant Temps Sensor
Inspected Brake Booster - plugged it to take it out of line - start sequence continues.
Checked main Fuel Line input - Full of fuel.
Inspected all vacuum lines - replaced a few of the small line segments - no help.
Check distributor cap rotor replaced, new plugs.
New battery 4 months ago - charged.
The car has started a little rough ever since it was purchased 7 months ago - almost needing a bit of higher throttle at first to keep it running - for maybe 30-45 seconds - then it would idle and run fine. As I drove it more this symptom would settle down.

The day it died. I had driven about 10 miles, stopped for twenty minutes, then it started to idle for a second or so, and died. Engine was still warm. Outside temp in the 60's.

Let me know what you think - I am thinking vacuum lines or intake gasket ?


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## turbinepowered (Mar 19, 2007)

I've had a familiar issue to this before, starts, idles, dies. Had no power while running, would stumble if you gave it throttle.

For me it turned out to be utter crap gas that was water-logged, so I don't know that I have anything to offer here.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks, I did just fill the tank. Have been running 93 Octane.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Now have replaced all the small vacuum lines - running in the engine area. Inspected all vacuum challenges - could not see where throttle body gasket is deteriorated. 

No help. Need to pull an injector and verify fuel. Then pull plug and check spark, Elementary Watson.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

*Back on it...*

I have verified spark at ditsributor cap, and fuel is getting to the fuel distributor. I can get the car to crank and start by shooting carb spray through the the intake boot.

Have replaced the injectors. Fuel pump relay, and worked furiously to check all vacuum lines. The Brake Booster does not seem to be at fault. Could the valve cover be leaking too much vacuum - it does leak oil, and I will be replacing the gasket

Any additional ideas or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. The Q Synchro is a great car - and I would love to get it back on the road.


Thank you


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## Resourcerer (Jul 6, 2012)

NTSUBride said:


> I have verified spark at ditsributor cap, and fuel is getting to the fuel distributor. I can get the car to crank and start by shooting carb spray through the the intake boot.
> 
> Have replaced the injectors. Fuel pump relay, and worked furiously to check all vacuum lines. The Brake Booster does not seem to be at fault. Could the valve cover be leaking too much vacuum - it does leak oil, and I will be replacing the gasket
> 
> ...


I've been following your thread. You've gotten great advice and I don't know if this will help, but I noticed you addressed the small vacuum lines, but did you check the rubber cluster hose off the idle control valve? This larger vacuum hose tends to fold under vacuum, and develops a crack on the underside that you can't readily see, although you can hear a leak. I no longer have the QSW's and Audi Coupe GT's with the same system, but I used to find a characteristic underside leak in that cluster hose. To prevent or support a patch I used to insert a coil (compression) spring about 3" long tight to the inside diameter of that hose to prevent new ones from folding and developing cracks, or provide hose rigidity for temporary patches. The open spring coils don't block flow to the openings that need it.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Thank you. I will investigate the concern you mentioned. also, I reviewed all the threads, and based upon the manner in which the brakes have operated - sometimes the pedal action will fluctuate - however the car has never had a problem stopping, my thoughts are it might be time to look for a Booster. QuantumMechanic and others have pointed to this being a steady problem with the cars, and a large vacuum leak seems to be the problem.

I will review the idle stabilizer hoses in more detail first.

Anyone have access to a know good brake booster ? 86' Synchro wagon. Thanks


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

Update - check the hose and clamps and idle control valve. Looked in good condition - and insured all hoses were connected upon installation.

Checked vaccum at Brake booster - could pull vacuum in from brake booster when pulling from line at intake. Not so in other direction. Decided to remove line from brake booster and plug to determine if booster is source of vacuum leak. Now, the car starts for a few secods, although it will not yet pull above idle.

I decided to let it go a bit, and recheck after posting the new on Voretex. Probably need to send the booster out for OVH. 

Any comments are a big help.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

The brake booster was taken apart tested, verified in good working condition by brake shop that has been in business 50 years. Reinstalled in Quantum with new o-rings and it starts but dies quickly. I can smell fuel now, where in the past I could not. Checked main line from booster to intake and replaced sections to insure positive vacuum, still same start sequence. 

I will now look to verify fuel pressure as it is getting spark, has compression, and perhaps is fuel starved.


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

The next step is to drain and pull the fuel tank. I had run some VW specific fuel system cleaner through on the previous fill up. It ran fine, though it did seem to loose a bit in performance , maybe 5-10% - I noticed a slight drop. That is the thought behind the fuel screen clog.

I had just filled up, drove the car about 40 miles when I could not get it to start. Replaced fuel filter, all injectors and seals, fuel pump relay, check and replaced vacuum lines - (reviewed these multiple times), checked all grounds, and verified the injectors are firing by movement of the throttle plate. Had the brake booster checked and reinstalled with new lines, replaced coolant temp sensor, checked spare fuse per Bentley suggestion.

The Quantum is getting fuel per the throttle plate check, and you can smell it as well. It start a bit and dies. I do not have access to the banjo fitting to check fuel pressure at the main fitting at the fuel distributor.

Gut feeling is the fuel pump screen is clogged or fuel pump is weak - and I will most likely replace the pump when I pull the tank.

Any thoughts or additional ideas - Thanks


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## NTSUBride (Mar 2, 2017)

*Running again - need fuse panel relay diagram*

Turned out to be the ignition module - wiggling the plug kept it running. So it was replaced. Have about 80 miles on it now, and it seems to run well.

I could use a relay diagram for the fuse panel - as I swapped a few around. and have a few in the glove box, #24, #53. Blower Motor, rear defroster and wiper are INOP.

Thanks for all the help.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

This should help. CE1 cars are fairly standardized as to what relays are where.

http://a2resource.com/electrical/CE1.html


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

QuantumMechanic said:


> Cool. That means the distributor isn't blocked up. And yeah, I bought a new set of brass Mercedes injectors for my car and just had to carefully swap the air shroud hats off the old ones. These are the ones I bought:
> NEW For Mercedes R107 W124 W126 W201 Bosch New Fuel Injector CIS 000 078 56 23 | eBay
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7 Edge


How did those MB injectors work out in your Quantum engine?

Regards


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## QuantumMechanic (Mar 1, 2015)

Wow, back from the dead. They worked fine. I just had to swap the air shroud hats and o rings. I actually have them in a ziploc bag now because I'm in the middle of an engine and trans swap. Scrapped the 5 cylinder and busted 016. 

Sent from my Radio Shack TRS-80


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## 8587qsw (Sep 12, 2006)

I own an 85 and 87 QSW, daily drivers up until last year. The fuel gauge went out on the 85, looked into the wiring and the sending meter inside the gas tank might be the culprit. Will try plugging the 85 fuel pump harness into the 87 to see what happens. Those are NLA parts, as expected.


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