# Project Build: sc2020



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Assembly has finally begun.
Since my Interior Project is now complete -> Interior Swap and Renew Complete + extras (VERY VERY Pic..., I finally had some time to start assembly of my Hybrid 2L-20v G60.
Planning, parts gathering, prototyping and machine work has been going on for about the last 6 months, but Assembly finally started yesterday. And progress has been great with no snags thus far.
Here is the plan for those who don't frequent the G60 Forum:

2L ABA Bored to 83mm with Custom JE Forged Pistons (9.25:1)
ABA OBDI block with Forged Internals, ARP hardware, Resized and Shot peened rods
AEB 20v Head (Large Port)
Custom Modified SuperSprint SS Mk2 16v Header re-Flanged for 20V
Light PnP and gasket matching
Stage IV G60







, Pulley size TBD to match higer revs
MsnS-e
FMIC Precision Core under Dietrich RS
Euro AGU Intake
some other stuff
1.) Before I begin, let's get some semantics out of the way. This project is not about "the biggest numbers on the tex" so please don't talk about Big Turbos "BTs" here.
2.) If you have any basic questions on 20v Hybrids, please visit this thread -> 20V Hybrid - How To. Al ot of details on my research and specifics are in there.
3.) Although I am not the first 2020 by far, my setup will definitely be unique and will be full trim with A/C.
3.) pic centric thread as usual.

*DisAssembly of donors*






*Since no machine shop around here had a Torque plate to bore my block with, I decided to make my own*




*Painted Block*


*Pinning the Crank Pulley*



*ABA Intermediate Shaft Modification for distributer using AWP 52T Cam Gear (initially)*





_Modified by sdezego at 6:24 PM 1-2-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*





* After Checking the IM Shaft bearings, I realized that the machine shop honed them to big... I shoudl have just done them myself to begin with.*
 



*Checking the Crank Shaft Axial Play* 




*Plastigage'ing the Mains. I always check..* 
 



_Modified by sdezego at 6:28 PM 1-2-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

*Click to Enlarge*








*Checking the Rods with Plastigage*








_Modified by sdezego at 6:14 PM 1-2-2007_


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## RaraK69 (Jan 16, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Wow. thats intense.
running dizzy in block i take it? or going coils?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Forgot to add my original Mock-up. Shown is the Euro Large Port Intake from the AGU Golf.
*Click to Enlarge*
 


_Modified by sdezego at 6:43 PM 1-2-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (RaraK69)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RaraK69* »_Wow. thats intense.
running dizzy in block i take it? or going coils?

I am going to Run Dizzy Initially, but will then go to either Coil pack using the ABA 60-2 took trigger or may even go COP.


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## Darrsh (Jan 15, 2002)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Let me be the first to tell you that even though there r a good number of 2020's out there, your car is gonna stand out from the crowd, newer style w/hvac swap is awesome, so is the interior renewal.
but 20vG60, i cant wait to here a sound clip
keep it up man http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Darrsh)*

I've seen the work in person...
Ehhh... it's okay... if you are into that sort of thing







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Pinepig (Jul 9, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_I am going to Run Dizzy Initially, but will then go to either Coil pack using the ABA 60-2 took trigger or may even go COP.

Why go through the extra work to fit the dizzy if your using the MSnSe, it's a thing of simplcity to run a missing tooth setup from the get go.


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## Lurch Legs (Feb 14, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Pigsdofly)*

I want to cut your brain out and eat it for the knowledge. Keep it up.


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## pueblorrado (Aug 31, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Lurch Legs)*

I wish i had the money to dive in to a motor build like this. rebuilt a 3.0L infinity motor for a class, and all i want to do is rebuild my g60 to pure awesomeness


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Pigsdofly)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pigsdofly* »_Why go through the extra work to fit the dizzy if your using the MSnSe, it's a thing of simplcity to run a missing tooth setup from the get go.

An excellent question really. Especially, since you need to do a special board tweak for MSnS to accommodate VW's Dist Hall Sensor.
The orig plan was to Build MS, Config and install it on my existing G60 on Dist, get it tuned and run it for a while. Basically, get it all ready to throw on the new motor and then have to just tweak the maps rather than work out any bugs on the new motor. Still the plan actually, but since I finished the MS build a few months ago and the motor is well under way, the idea is making less sense.
Also, I already had all of the stuff for ABA Dist and the only thing I needed was the Cam gear and a 20 minute IM Shaft mod.
The past week or so, I have been seriously rethinking this though and may go 60-2 Coil pack right off. I may even setup a 60-2 on my current PG to get it all ready. I go back and forth.


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## fastslc (Sep 14, 1999)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

That's some meticulous work you are doing here dude.. Excellent..















Wish I had time and patience and TOOLS to do all that.
d


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (fastslc)*

Well wait a second, if you bored out a 2.0 block... isn't it a sc2120 or 2021 or 21.xxx


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (leebro61)*


_Quote, originally posted by *leebro61* »_Well wait a second, if you bored out a 2.0 block... isn't it a sc2120 or 2021 or 21.xxx
















Not all that much gain on a 4 cyl only going .5mm. Stock ABA is 1984cc @ 82.5mm Bore. 83mm Bore brings it up to 2008cc


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## UTdaneVW (Sep 21, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Thats going to be such a sick motor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I want to see this car in person, all the work on the interior and now this.







Def holding it down for the FL Rado scene.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (UTdaneVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UTdaneVW* »_Thats going to be such a sick motor. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
I want to see this car in person, all the work on the interior and now this.







Def holding it down for the FL Rado scene.

Thanks! You will definitely see it. Been driving it alot lately and enjoying it. Realistically, the motor will not go in for a few months as I am not rushing it. LOTS of stuff to work out between now and then.
Among other things, I am thinking about the gearbox as well. Peloquin at the bare min, but need to sell some more parts to pay for that. I have also been thinking about an 02M lately







That is just a matter of money, not effort.
Shawn


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_







Not all that much gain on a 4 cyl only going .5mm. Stock ABA is 1984cc @ 82.5mm Bore. 83mm Bore brings it up to 2008cc

Ahh gotcha. For some reason I assumed the ABA was an 81mm bore like a vr6/1.8t. I figured you were going +2mm


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## DarkDragon (Oct 21, 2003)

I need to stop by and check this shizz out. Looks good man. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: (DarkDragon)*

goodluck and welcome to the 2020 club


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## 32176G60 (Nov 3, 2004)

Glad I only live 10 min away!


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## Salsa GTI (Aug 29, 2000)

*Re: (32176G60)*

Looking Good


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Salsa GTI)*

Here is what I will be using to take care of the waste.
SuperSprint 16V mk2 header modified with a 20v Flange and some gentle persuasion to reorient the headers.


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## Froto-gL (Aug 7, 2002)

sweeeeet technical posts are awesome. Screw this I got new tires crap, machine work and precision for the win


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: (Salsa GTI)*

Awesome project. I want to see more of this stuff


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## eduardopepe (Apr 11, 2003)

*Re: (d-bot)*

hotness! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## IN-FLT (Mar 22, 2003)

*Re: (eduardopepe)*

Dude, can't wait to see this completed! Kick Ass


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## 98vr6t (Jun 22, 2005)

Dude, got me jealous, but glad to see we both had the same idea!


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

must be something in the water down there, we're lazy as balls around here....wish i was down there....palm tree hugers....
oh the engine looks good in case you needed my approval to continue and not lose sleep at night.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 98vr6t (Jun 22, 2005)

Do all rocket scientists drive crazy Turbo cars or whatt!
Yeah I'm usually lazy, speaking for myself, but this guys got good drive, hope to see it at FixxFest!


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## Cyberfire (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

So I take it you're a machinist...








Nice work man! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## SLC Guido (Nov 29, 2005)

More pics!! show me the car that all this is being done for too!
Great job.....


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Been out of town and busy, so no major progress except for spending more money and more circular decisions regarding ignition. 
I have some 16V IM Shaft parts coming Tues, so I will make a Final decision on Dist vs Coil Pack (or COP). If you want to know what I think was the final clincher, you may laugh. I will be running the Timing belt guards and the lower AEB guard will not fit on the 52T IM Shaft Gear for Distrubuter (obviously since the AEB uses a 43T gear like the 9a).







It is just one of those things you don't think of until you go to do it. Also, the 43T gear will turn the Oil pump faster, which can't be a bad thing







I just want to take the ABA and 9a oil pumps apart to compare and make sure this is nothing I am missing (other than the forked vs splined shaft). I am almost certain the gears are the same size, but want to verify reliefs and such.

I did get my Vr Lenses and Bezels installed on my ECodes though. All I can say is Flush! The G60 Ecode gaps and steps from Vr grill to fenders really annoyed me. I also have a set of Vr Fogs coming for the RS Front that will house the Precision FMIC.
Mock pic of the head and belt on (now all subject to change). I also, did not make the tensioner mod yet to affix it (since the stock 20v uses the hydro damper and relay roller).

 
 



_Modified by sdezego at 5:37 PM 1-2-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I had a few questions about how I was going to modify the 20v Tensioner, so here is my off the cuff ideas.
1st - If you are *not* running a Dist and plan on running the 16v/aeb IM shaft 43T gear, then you can simply use the 16v "fixed" type tensioner with the 157T custom belt and call it a day. No need to read on in this post.
If you *are* running Dist (Which I was going to), you have to run the only available "correct Tooth belt" at 158T (159T would be perfect) which will not fit with the 16V tensioner. You must use the 20V variant which allows you to use the 158T belt.
Here are two ideas that I had for mod'ing the 20V tensioner to make it "Fixed" instead of the hydro self-adjusting. Even though I am not running dist, I may still use the 20v type pictured and "affix it" as shown.
*Option #1*
*Click to Enlarge:*



*Option #2*
 


_Modified by sdezego at 5:24 PM 1-2-2007_


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## bulldog2.G (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Thoroughly Jealous, Shawn.


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (bulldog2.G)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bulldog2.G* »_Thoroughly Jealous, Shawn.









X2. But at least now I know I can handle him around a golf course.
Did you ever get that thing I mailed to you?








I never heard back...


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Mailed to bulldog2.g. Did you see who I replied too noob








{Yes, it was confusing, I realize this...}


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Figured I'd kill two birds with one post


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## Pinepig (Jul 9, 2001)

*Re: (leebro61)*

I love the pics with the red scribble text.
Great post BTW.


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## WolfGTI (Jun 16, 1999)

*Re: (Pigsdofly)*

Update?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (WolfGTI)*

sorry, I have been very busy here on the text reading your updates and googling, thus no time to work on mine








Actually I have made some progress of sorts. I ordered a crap load of misc parts, factory bolts, studs, elec connectors etc that should be here any day.
In addition, I took the 9a and ABA oil pumps apart to compare the internals, and as suspected, everything is interchangeable. The only difference is the Splined drive shaft on the 9a as opposed to the Forked one on the ABA. I will show some pics just for the heck of it.
So the definite plan "now" is to run the 60-2 trigger on MSnS-e as opposed to Dist. So, I am going to swap out the Modified ABA IM shaft and Cog for the 9a. Didn't put the oil pump in or pan on yet, so this is no biggie.
I have also been trying to decipher whether the 60-2 pickup I have from the ABA that I have will play nicely with MS. Seems to be some conflicting info out there and I don't own a scope.
I have also been doing some wiring or sorts







Hooking up a new Tig in my garage and honing my skills. Lots of stuff to put this to good use on!
Shawn
 
 


_Modified by sdezego at 6:31 PM 1-2-2007_


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

That's a hell of a tig you got there buddy. Must have paid for that by hustling chumps like me on the golf course








Get your practice on because I might need to come over and do some fabrimicating in a few weeks http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_se the 20V variant which allows you to use the 158T belt.
Here are two ideas that I had for mod'ing the 20V tensioner to make it "Fixed" instead of the hydro self-adjusting. Even though I am not running dist, I may still use the 20v type pictured and "affix it" as shown.


Just use a 16v tensioner with a standard bolt and 3 washers to space it out to keep in line with your timing gear. Thats how I did mine. It's simple, easy, and works great.








btw this is for my mk1 thus you have to use the 16v tensioner but not sure why you would want to mess with the other ideas. Not that they wouldn't work but it just seems like more work for the same result. 
Keep up the sweet work though!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (d-bot)*

You have pictured an internal Waterpump and a short block and therfore there are numerous OEM VW belts. For the ABA (Tall Block) Running Dist, there is no belt that will fit using the 16V tensioner (OEM or custom cut). 159T would be perfect and would allow the use of the 16V tensioner, but there is no such belt. So, you must use a 158T which requires the use of the modified 20v tensioner








*Edit:* No Belt with the Correct Tooth Profile. Nice setup BTW!
S


_Modified by sdezego at 4:41 PM 10-11-2006_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

very slow progress. Too many other projects and such, but should have the rest of the bottom end buttoned up tonight.
in the mean time here are some pic of the Oil Pump.
In case anyone is planning on changing directions Mid stream as I did (Dist vs COP or WS) or in case you just enjoy saving a few $s, here is a tip.
If you plan on running the 16v Oil pump drive Gear and dist block off setup you can swap the Shafts from an old 9a oil Pump into the much less expensive ABA oil pump. I don't think the 16v PL has the recess notch on the Oil pump shaft becuase it does not have clearance issues as the 2Liters do, but irregardless.
Pics tell the story. oh, yea, you MUST have a press!
Click pics to enlarge:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Another week out of town on business, but made some progress in the machine shop today. Here is my way of modifying the ABA serp pulley for the wider 16v/20v belt.
- Total cut was ~5.8mm
- .001" press fit
- perfectly eccentric and uses stock crank centering








- perfectly balanced
Click for larger pics:


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## titeGTi (Jun 13, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (UTdaneVW)*

nice stuff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## speediG60 (Nov 21, 2003)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (titeGTi)*

Nice build but painting the block gloss black might not have been the best idea as potential oil leaks would be hard to see.


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## CorradoSLCVR6 (Jul 12, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

cool


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Forgot to add my original Mock-up. Shown is the Euro Large Port Intake from the AGU Golf.









You don't think that will cause routing problems for the IC and air filter?
Have you thought about running an OBDI aba TB?


_Modified by G60ING at 9:50 AM 12-10-2006_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60ING)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_
You don't think that will cause routing problems for the IC and air filter?
Have you thought about running an OBDI aba TB?


Yea, that was the only one I had at the time from a spare motor. Since that pic I did get up an OBD1 ABA TB http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I really haven't finalized the routing design just yet, but I have a plan and a fall back plan.
My Main Goal is to keep a nice compressed flow out of the charger down into the FMIC (Drivers side) and then from the FMIC P/S up into the TB.
Having the air filter on the PS might be a bit tricky to route and probably impossible with the stock air box, but running the Eurosport Coolflow and a K&N looks doable.
I really want to go back to the stock air box, so I may run the air box on the Driver's side where the battery is and trunkmount the batt.
I also plan on making the charger bypass mechanical from the stock G60 butterfly/Bypass welded onto a pipe just before the TB.
Shawn


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Darrsh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Darrsh* »_
but 20vG60, i cant wait to here a sound clip 

Thats what its all about reasonable power with an awesome sound http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Corradoman8 (Sep 14, 2000)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60ING)*

lookin good, i can't wait to see the final product http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 1.8t rado (Apr 9, 2006)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_









looks happy to see you








crazy build man. i'd like to see it finished http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60ING)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_
That's what its all about reasonable power with an awesome sound http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Most Definitely. And I think that SuperSprint Header with this setup is going to help things sound very healthy









----
Progress is being made, just not at the pace that I would like. Many other distractions including installing Megasquirt on my current setup to get it tuned and any bugs worked out as well the recent acquisition of another G60-> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2974793
...oh, yea and various things in life (all good). Kids are definite Time Burglars, but they're worth it


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

I miss the sound of a G60 with the TT SS Borla. I picked up an NA 20V header manifold










_Modified by G60ING at 12:53 PM 12-15-2006_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60ING)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_ I picked up an NA 20V header manifold


That was my first option, but at the time no one wanted to sell one at a decent price. Also, when I picked it up timing was right to drop coin on the SS header and it was aplenty. Still going to take fab work to Reflange it and make it fit too.


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## squeeze (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Re: 20V NA mani....I picked up mine for 120 from Jim at Audi5TurboTech.
How much were you being quoted?

jkm


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (squeeze)*

240. if I could have picked one up for 120, it would not have even been a second thought.


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## squeeze (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

That sucks man, sorry to hear that. On the bright side....you do have a nice build!
I've perused your thread and I see that you do your own checks on the bottom end components, where do you get that information? Tolerances, clearances etc. etc? And also the checks do you perform?
Always looking to learn a little more!
tia!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (squeeze)*

Thanks. Years or building engines and such, but the Bentley lists all tolerances. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

In the process of doing the head now, just too many things going on at once. I finally had a chance to finish the install of Megaaquirt on my current setup and am in the process of tuning. Fired right up and had it idling perfectly rock steady with 42# injectors @ 3 Bar in about 5 minutes







...needless to say it did not idle like this with Digi. 

Anyway, here is what I am working on with the head and should have some more pics in the next few days.
I ordered up some T6 AL Rod(s) and I am going to cut some short discs and knock into the head drain holes and then plug weld flush with the head's gasket surface. The corner holes, as well as the right front drain, will be angle drilled from the drain holes in the gasket to the drain holes in the head. This will align the crush surfaces on the gasket properly with the head.
This next step is really what I consider an optional one, but since I am already welding on the head, it is not much more work. I am going to interconnect the 4 rear oil drains via oil galleys. This is to prevent any oil pooling near the exhaust valve guide seals from plugging the 3 center oil drains. 1 will be connected to the rear corner and 2 will be connected to the front corner. This requires filling the areas shown below hatched in red and then cross drilling 2 galley holes (one from the front of the head and one from the rear) to interconnect the oil drains. These do not need to be big. A 1/8" pipe plug at the front and back of the head will then plug these pilot holes (just like the factory did for the lifter Oil Galleys)

*Click to Enlarge:*




_Modified by sdezego at 5:12 PM 1-2-2007_


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## Urieal (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

I am summarily impressed thus far








Thank you for all the insight...I have been trying to find the absolute BEST option for my future build and I will be following your outline here VERY closely. Probably do some minor things differently, but for the most part...very similar.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Urieal)*

No problem at all








Update: I didn't get to finish the welding on the head yet, but did make progress of sorts. Tonight, I logged 25 miles on the MsnS setup that I built up for this motor. Had a snafu on the first run the other day but got it sorted. I still need to fine tune, but it runs absolutely amazing thus far








S


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

As just mentioned, I finally got the Megasquirt setup installed that I had build over 6mo ago. It is all hooked up on my current G60 8v setup, so I get any bugs worked out and get a base tune for the new motor etc. I am really beside myself as to how well MS works and it's capability After only about 30min of driving by myself, I have the car about 90% tuned. The software for MS is truly amazing...
Here is a quick data log from my LM1-LMA3 wideband. The spike just before boost is because I have Acceleration enrichment turned off for tuning purposes. It is still a bit on the Rich through boost because I had the Authority set low in Autotune, so that it was only able to make small changes at a time. Still learning the software and just need a bit more driving time before I can close this chapter. But not before a little Digi vs MS Dyno showdown. I still have Digi currently in there that I can swap back and forth with a harness plug change
















Time for a couple of







s


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## Urieal (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_No problem at all








Update: I didn't get to finish the welding on the head yet, but did make progress of sorts. Tonight, I logged 25 miles on the MsnS setup that I built up for this motor. Had a snafu on the first run the other day but got it sorted. I still need to fine tune, but it runs absolutely amazing thus far








S

Please post before welding and after welding shots of the head. You don't even have to annotate the differences...I'll figure them out


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

A little update... 
I finished the welding. The head was preheated and slow cooled in my oven. You should have seen my wife's face when she opened the oven to cook some pork chops







I also did some rough machining and had it shaved for a finished HG surface. I went with the plan from the previous page (See Pic) and ended up creating the interconnecting oil drains to the corners. Welding this buildup was not fun due to the tight spaces and trying to get the TIG torch in there, but I managed.
One Key note is that I was so focused on the oil drains that I noticed that the crush zones on the head gasket between the back of the head and the Cylinders impeded into/near/too close to the cooling jackets for my satisfaction. So, I ended up bridge welding those as well. (see annotated pic below)
Pics after the machining will be up tomorrow. (click to enlarge)
*Drilling the Oil Galleys*





 

*Plugging the Oil Drains machined from AL Rod to aid in Plug Welding*







*The HG Crush Zone I was referring to*


*One of the corner drains welded but not yet machined (very poor pic I know)*


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Teaser Pic. Notice the build up areas on the Exhaust side for the new Oil Drain Galley(s) interconnecting the 3 center drains to the corners respectively. Also, notice the now bridged area between the Cyls and the rear (exhaust side) of the head.
Have not finished the machining here:
- Corner Block Drains have not been redrilled
- Rear Coolant passages, not opened up yet to match Headgasket.
- Large offset front drain not remachined
- Head has not been PnP'ed yet








Click to enlarge
Before and after:



_Modified by sdezego at 2:12 PM 2-7-2007_


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Meticulous attention to detail







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (leebro61)*


_Quote, originally posted by *leebro61* »_Meticulous attention to detail







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

It is good to see people do things right for a change http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Urieal (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (brilliantyellowg60)*

how much did you machine off after the welding?
sure your pistons aren't gonna hit the valves?
why so much buildup in the galleys?


_Modified by Urieal at 12:13 AM 2-8-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Urieal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Urieal* »_how much did you machine off after the welding?

.010" to clean things up and re-true

_Quote, originally posted by *Urieal* »_sure your pistons aren't gonna hit the valves?

Yes

_Quote, originally posted by *Urieal* »_why so much buildup in the galleys?

Not sure what you mean by "So Much Buildup". There was a bit more welding there than I initially planned, but it was necessary because of limited space in trying to get the Tig torch in there to flow material.
I mentioned in the 20v thread that if I had to do it over again, I probably would not do the oil galleys again. Just because of the amount of work involved for something that is questionably needed. Technically, having the drains will prevent oil pooling by #2 &#3 cyl's exhaust valves. The other mods and the bridging are necessary IMO.
Shawn


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## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (brilliantyellowg60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brilliantyellowg60* »_It is good to see people do things right for a change http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

definitely. Keep this baby rockin! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Head Modifications progression recap. (Before-During-After)
- Welded and block 3 rear oil drains
- Welded and re-machined 2 rear corner drains
- Welded and re-machined Front left Oil Drain
- Bridge welded rear head to cyls and modified rear cooling circuits
- Welded material on rear of head to interconnect Oil Drains that were blocked off to each corner drain via Drilled oil galleys
- welded and redrilled head dowel Line up holes

*Before and after:*
Click to enlarge

  




_Modified by sdezego at 11:03 AM 2-12-2007_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Now that the head modifications are pretty much done on to other head work








*Teaser - Click for larger pic*

*Edit:* I should add, the left two intake ports are unmodified in that pic. Look at the transitions to the bowl area. If the head flows as well as it does stock, imagine what it will do with a little port work.



_Modified by sdezego at 10:57 AM 2-12-2007_


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## Retrographic (Aug 11, 2005)

to make this project even better you should add a t to the end of the title.... like
sc2020t
that


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## Shawn M. (Oct 15, 2002)

wow
amazing buildwork.


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## Urieal (Nov 16, 2005)

any way you could post up a pic of the head with the ABA head gasket sitting on it, so we can see how it matches up








thx


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Urieal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Urieal* »_any way you could post up a pic of the head with the ABA head gasket sitting on it, so we can see how it matches up








thx

Not really sure what you are asking for. You want to see the how the HG lined up before the mods or after?
The HG Lines up perfect with the corner drains and is the exact same diameter now. All cooling holes line up. So, If I place the HG on the head an take a pic you won't see much. Also, laying the HG on the head is deceiving because a lot of the issues were with the HG crush zones, so that is/was hard to illustrate with a pic.
Let me know what exactly what you want to see and I can take a pic.


----------



## TehLonz (Oct 5, 2006)

*Re: (sdezego)*
















wow 
massive props!


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## nomad1721 (Apr 4, 2005)

*Re: (golf198v3.0)*


_Quote, originally posted by *golf198v3.0* »_















wow 
massive props!

X2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (nomad1721)*

Thanks guys! If there were 30hrs in the day life would be good








Too many projects that are taking precedence which is why there is not much progress in the last few weeks








Like this one for example (Not related to this build).


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## Urieal (Nov 16, 2005)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

its time for updates! lets see how it's going!!!


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## 32176G60 (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: (Urieal)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Urieal* »_its time for updates! lets see how it's going!!!

Ditto.... What have you been up to?


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (32176G60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *32176G60* »_What have you been up to? 

Busy doing NADA...


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (32176G60)*

Just too damn busy in general. I spent the last 36hrs alone in Tax preparation hell








And, as usual, other people stuff takes precedence over my own. But that is done and here are some pics of some 8v love (full thread to come).



...Letting the owner do the fine finishing inside if desired.
...
...
..
.

However, with all that said, last weekend I made good progress on the head and have all of the intake ports ported (Yes all 12 of them :bandhead: ). Not all polished yet, but I will take some update pics.
I am also questioning my Trans heavily and am seriously thinking about an 02m with maybe a 3.94 of 4.11 'ish Ring and Pinion. I hate the G60 gearing. I just need to find someone that will either make some form of a trade trade for my Silver Corrado or buy it outright, etc.
Shawn


_Modified by sdezego at 10:53 PM 4-4-2007_


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## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
I am also questioning my Trans heavily and am seriously thinking about an 02m with maybe a 3.94 of 4.11 'ish Ring and Pinion. I hate the G60 gearing. I just need to find someone that will either make some form of a trade trade for my Silver Corrado or buy it outright, etc.
Shawn

just get some VR gearing and a diff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brilliantyellowg60* »_
just get some VR gearing and a diff http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I am most certainly considering that as an option. Unfortunately, I sold the Vr trans that I had as part of the swap







Might need to look what I can get the gears for. In addition, if I stay 5spd, I definitely want a .72ish 5th. I miss that from my Turbo Scirocco.
..the 02m though, adds just enough complications that could quench my OCD briefly







Realistically, the 02a with Vr gears makes the most sense.
LSD is happening regardless of the choice.


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## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
I am most certainly considering that as an option. Unfortunately, I sold the Vr trans that I had as part of the swap







Might need to look what I can get the gears for. In addition, if I stay 5spd, I definitely want a .72ish 5th. I miss that from my Turbo Scirocco.
..the 02m though, adds just enough complications that could quench my OCD briefly







Realistically, the 02a with Vr gears makes the most sense.
LSD is happening regardless of the choice.

i got 2 sets of vr gears for free
there are plenty of vr trannys with blown diffs out there








my .7 5th cost me $300, well worth it, i will save that in fuel eventually


----------



## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

i'll give you one of my old sets
just needs third gear


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## SameoldVW (Nov 25, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

How's the header coming along - looking forward to seeing some pics of it with the 20v flange. I was wondering, if the Supersprint 16v header is Stainless, how are you going to unstress the primaries? so there is no added force on them when they heat up, because stainless likes to expand.


_Modified by SameoldVW at 7:27 AM 4-5-2007_


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brilliantyellowg60* »_i'll give you one of my old sets
just needs third gear









are both the Main and Counter 3rds toasted? That's close to $300 alone no?







Maybe that's the reason for the







LOL
If you have a good complete set that you might be interested in selling, LMK. I would need the shafts, etc too though (at least the mainshaft I know) since they are different than the ATA/AYL. If the set only needs one gear, I may be interested and have something that may be of interest to you


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (SameoldVW)*


_Quote, originally posted by *SameoldVW* »_How's the header coming along - looking forward to seeing some pics of it with the 20v flange. I was wondering, if the Supersprint 16v header is Stainless, how are you going to unstress the primaries? so there is no added force on them when they heat up, because stainless likes to expand.


I won't be getting to that for a little while. I may even wait until last so that the engine is in the car and I can get it positioned precisely. I am not one that like exhausts hitting the tunnel or Rack








The Supersprint header is SS and super high quality. They use separate Mild steel flanges on each primary as pictured earlier. The Flange I have is actually SS and one big piece as you can see from the pics. I assumed that Supersprint used Mild steel for cost savings, but that may not be the whole case. I am undecided and have read a lot of conflicting opinions on the latter in regards to Turbo Manifolds. I am always open to opinions and suggestions from experience. All of the headers I have ever made were all Mild steel. The welding will no doubt be back purged and TIGed regardless.
Shawn


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## WolfGTI (Jun 16, 1999)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Cool work Shawn, looking forward to seeing your project all done, my header doesn't rub the tunnel or rack.


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## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
are both the Main and Counter 3rds toasted? That's close to $300 alone no?







Maybe that's the reason for the







LOL
If you have a good complete set that you might be interested in selling, LMK. I would need the shafts, etc too though (at least the mainshaft I know) since they are different than the ATA/AYL. If the set only needs one gear, I may be interested and have something that may be of interest to you









yeah both are toasted


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*

Quit it with the yardwork and get back on this project, we want updates!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (leebro61)*

haha, yea no doubt. I have some updated pics that I need to post, but was hoping to get all of the PnP finished...
As it stands, everything is now ported. I just need to sand and then polish.


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## skaterhernandez4 (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: (sdezego)*

i hope you have a flowbench


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (skaterhernandez4)*


_Quote, originally posted by *skaterhernandez4* »_i hope you have a flowbench









Why do you hope so? ..and why the sad face before even asking?
flowbench provides validation to you and others that I know what I am doing, and I don't need that sort of validation. Lets just say, that I am not new at this.
Look above at the one finished port on the right, and if you see any flaws in my work, please be sure to comment.
Shawn


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## Retrographic (Aug 11, 2005)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Why do you hope so? ..and why the sad face before even asking?
flowbench provides validation to you and others that I know what I am doing, and I don't need that sort of validation. Lets just say, that I am not new at this.
Look above at the one finished port on the right, and if you see any flaws in my work, please be sure to comment.

I don't think he is trying to knock your work. I think he is desperately hoping for flow numbers on the head to see how much better you were able to make it flow. Not to criticize, but to be even more impressed. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Just too damn busy in general. I spent the last 36hrs alone in Tax preparation hell ..............
I am also questioning my Trans heavily and am seriously thinking about an 02m with maybe a 3.94 of 4.11 'ish Ring and Pinion. I hate the G60 gearing. I just need to find someone that will either make some form of a trade trade for my Silver Corrado or buy it outright, etc.
Shawn


I know all about work schedules from hell. I just finished up Norfolk's budget and over 100hrs in a 7 day period.






















With the 2L bottom end your G60 gearing will feel completly different. trust me I had Vr6 gearing when I built the 2LG60. The extra stroke of the aba did not match up well with the longer Vr6 gearing. Hence why I sold you the 2L block.


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (G60ING)*

If you need a complete good Vr6 transmission I have one $300+shpping and its yours http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (G60ING)*

Thanks Frank. Actually, I really respect your opinion and experience with the different gearing on the G60 and 2L stroke. We had even discussed it a couple of times as you may recall, and if it weren't for that, the decision would be final to do away with the ATA. Your experience with it on the 2L, is really making the decision hard.
I still have time before I need to make a final decision on the gearing, so I need to do some more figuring and research. I had an AYL and sold it, but don't really know how noticeable the small difference is between the ATA.
I really want to go 02m for a few reasons:
- The gearbox is built to withstand a lot of punishment from the get go.
- they generally have much less wear than any 02a. Even mine which was well taken car of.
- The gear changes seem so much more refined on the 02m than on the 02a. This is the big one. I figured I could play with the final drive if I had to make some adjustments. Adding a shift weight on the ATA may help quite a bit, but after knocking through the gears on an 02m, I was all smiles.
I already have a brand new Light Eurospec steel Flywheel, new Vr PP and clutch awaiting, so I might just bite the bullet and buy the peloquin for the 02a and call it a day. 1st gear just really disturbs me on the ATA as you are in and out of it so quickly. Maybe it will be better as you cay on the longer stroke.
We'll see and thanks!
Shawn


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Don't do anything to the tranny, no peliquin. drive it as is and then plan an upgrade once you have had a chance to drive the 2020/ATA Combo.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (G60ING)*

A couple more pics I came across of some older progress. I am no longer using the AWP timing belt tensioner pictured below since I switched to non-Distributer (using the 9a IM shaft and stuff). Now, I can fit the 9a tensioner with one of my custom 157T Belts.
As Usual, Click for larger pics.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Before I post some more Porting progress, I just wanted to post this older picture of a finished intake port. Look closely at it compared to the untouched ports and you will see that there is some very poor bowl work and castings from the factory. Even still the AEB flows ~220-240cfm stock. Ported, it has been proven to flow ~ 270cfm.
Click for larger pic.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Click for larger pics


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

click for larger pics


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Click for larger pics
Exhaust ports are 95% done..


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Click for larger pics.
again, Exhaust ports are about 95% done.
 
 

TEMPLATE for Port Matching the Intake.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I'll give you a good Vr6 transmission for porting like that on my 20V head http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (G60ING)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_I'll give you a good Vr6 transmission for porting like that on my 20V head http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

I think Shawn only trades services for yardwork


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (leebro61)*

LOL. I am not sure how many hours I have in the this head or the port work alone, but when i am done, I won't be rushing to do another until I get some down time







20 ports...


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_LOL. I am not sure how many hours I have in the this head or the port work alone, but when i am done, I won't be rushing to do another until I get some down time







20 ports...










I bet. I remember reading that a stock aeb head flows more then a stage 4 16V head from port tuning.com So I figure that there is no real need to port the 20V head since it has such great flow numbers. But I do like the work I've seen you put into your head. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (G60ING)*

Yea, I posted some flow number above in the barrage of images last night.
Stock, the AEB flows ~220-240cfm. Ported, it has been proven to flow ~ 270cfm+. Bob Quindazzi (mainly in the 1.8t forums) has some numbers from the heads he ported iirc and they are/were in the 270+ range.
It always helps and it is free hp. The differences that I have made by headwork alone on various engines over the years was my drive







. I figured since I am not running a Big Turbo, I might as well make the best of it. I would like to put a set of cams in it, but I am not sure I want to spend that chunk..
I heard that Nate Romero ended up getting 240whp on his *all motor* 2020







. His ports are completely reworked and monstrous. There are some pics floating around the 1.8t forum iirc. That type of work definitely requires a flow bench and a LOT of trial and error. Obviously, he had very different goals in mind


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
I heard that Nate Romero ended up getting 240whp on his *all motor* 2020







.

Now imagine that + your G60.Thats going to be one Corrado that I would love to take for a spin.
Btw nice desktop:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*









Here is a pic of one of the intake cyls that I had finished a little while back.
Click for larger pic.


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## VWDave88 (Jan 21, 2003)

*Re: (sdezego)*

this work is beautiful man i cant wait to see what it will do


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## papichulo7 (Dec 3, 2006)

*Re: (VWDave88)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWDave88* »_this work is beautiful man i cant wait to see what it will do

x2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (VWDave88)*

Thanks! Me neither. I am starting to get the Big itch to finish it lately, but still won't compromise "just to get it done". Especially, since my current car is running so nicely. Still have a lot of work to do.
I just finished the porting yesterday and pics should be up in a few. Head should be going together this week.
Shawn


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Porting is finished!
As usual, Click for lager pics
 
 
 


_Modified by sdezego at 1:26 PM 4-29-2007_


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Shawn what valves are you using?And where are the updates!?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

I am using Stock valves since everything was in good shape. 
My opinion is that I see no point in going oversize valves because of the head shrouding and closeness of the valves to begin with. I think the big gains here are the porting and bowl work and enlarging the ID of the seat slightly (i.e. under the 60* cut into the bowl). Also, there are significant benefits in Sodium filled Exhaust valves that I would rather not just throw away.
Not saying that there is no value in the very small OS valves available, just not worth it for my project goals and is reserved for the ballerz







If, I needed all new valves, I would consider it.
I just cc'ed my Cylinder and Head (#1) because I want to see what my CR is. Since, I decked the block and had to shave the head slightly after welding, I want to make sure I am still where I want to be.
I will post those details this weekend and still want to polish the Combustion chambers. I also planning on claying the pistons to check and verify valve clearance. I am sure they are fine as JE made the pistons, but I want to check in case I decide at the las minute to drop a set of cams in here








S



_Modified by sdezego at 11:59 AM 5-4-2007_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Forgot to mention that I removed all of the stock oil galley Ball Bearing plugs. what a PITA.
I just got my 1/16" NPT (Pipe Tap) yesterday (hard to find locally) and am going to allen plug all of them. I decided to do this to clean all of the oil galleys and make sure there was no debris/residues caught in any of them.
S


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (sdezego)*

what are you doing for an oil feed line? getting the one from the british website?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (G60ING)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_what are you doing for an oil feed line? getting the one from the british website?

I was planning on using the factory line either off of the Filter Flange or off of the side if the head. Haven't really decided yet as I convince myself back and forth that one option is better than the other.
I know I want to add the upper low oil pressure switch on the side of the head, just so the factory buzzer system works correctly. Since I removed all of the oil galley Ball plugs, I have like 6 locations to choose from


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I just cc'ed my Cylinder and Head (#1) because I want to see what my CR is. Since, I decked the block and had to shave the head slightly after welding, I want to make sure I am still where I want to be.

The question "What is my compression ratio" gets asked a lot in the various forums, so I figured that I would "show my work".

Here is some stuff that may help
CC = Combustion Chamber (Referring to the physical chamber itself)
cc = unit volume cubic centimeter or cm*cm*cm or mL (mili-Liter)
PV = Piston Volume (At TDC to top of block)
CD = Cyl Displacement
HV = Head Chamber Volume (approx 43 cc for stock 20v)
HGV = Head Gasket Volume (depends on final Gasket thickness!) (Pi*R*R*Thickness)
*My 2l*= 92.8 Stroke and 83mm Bore = 2008cc
Cyl Dis (CD) = (Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.0031416) / 4 = (2008/4 = 502 cc)
HGV = 8.66cc (~1.6mm Compressed for stock 2L MLS)
PV = 9cc (Measured)
HV = 42cc (Measured)
*Compression Ratio* = (CD + PV + HV + HGV) / (PV + HV + HGV)
Note: If you have a compression ratio goal you can work backward.
CR = (502 + 9 + 42 + 8.66) / (9 + 42 + 8.66) = *9.41 :1*
I wanted to be around 9.25:1, but since the block was decked and the Head was shaved slightly, it brought it up a bit. 
I am going to remove 1cc from the CC when I polish them which will be perfect.
Shawn

cc'ing the HV and PV (Click for larger pics)


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_or off of the side if the head.

There are 2 @ the rear.I would imagine they both have the same oil pressure correct?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
There are 2 @ the rear.I would imagine they both have the same oil pressure correct?

similar, but the head is "Last in Line" to get oil pressure per say and the oil galleys are small in comparison to the oil channels at the filter housing. Drawing from the head might drop the pressure in the head slightly (i.e. hydro lifters, journals, etc). Since the G60 line is so small and flows so little, though, I am sure it is negligible though and is likely where it will end up.
I just got done tapping all of the Oil Galley plugs and did tap the one near the Coolant flange to M10. It nothing else, the Mk2 secondary Oil pressure switch is going there, but i will likely run the charger line off there as well. I have the pressure switch in there now and it looks factory


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

A small update. I went to finally assemble the head and hand lapped the valves to check them. 3 of the Ex seats had an ever so slight issue. I am not really sure from what (Factory possibly), but it is enough that i want to fix. My neway seat cutters were way too big for the 20v head so, I have the right set coming so I can clean up those Ex Seats. I'll have some pics to clarify it and hopefully my cutters will be here before the weekend. 
Baseball season is over (I was coaching), so now I have my spare time back and am ready to get down to brass tacks..
Shawn


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Good progress this weekend for a change. As I mentioned above, I wasn't happy with the way the valves Hand Lapped in, so I decided to do a valve job. In the First pic, you can see that there is an area on the top of the Exhaust Seat that the valve did not lap in properly showing there is some seat distortion for some reason. There were 3 ex seats like this, but I decided to cut all in/ex seats.
Click for larger pics


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Also had a spare piece of Lexan Rod and made up a valve seal tool on the lathe. Worked flawlessly as you will see.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Head going together.
*Click For larger Pics*
  
  
  

*My highly technical Cam Chain tensioner Compressor*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

For those Familiar with the 20v head you will see that I removed all of the oil galley ball plugs to clean all of the channels. I Also tapped for the Head Pressure switch and tapped the holes for pipe plugs (not fully inserted in this pic).
*Click for larger pics*
  
  

Head will be going on the block Tomorrow







Until then, it's time for a


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

The Lid is on the Short Block and it feels like a big accomplishment!
Trying to decide on what to do with the valve cover. I am thinking either Wrinkle Black or Powder Coat it Blue. Since the car is black, I am thinking that Blue Valve Cover and Blue Silicone couplers might not hurt the eyes. All Hoses and such will be black.
I did the Charger Brackets and such in a Cast AL color paint and really like that aspect. Need a few







to think it over some more.
S


----------



## bulldog2.G (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Still jealous, shawn. Props. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (bulldog2.G)*

Thanks Matt.
Here is a little update and regarding the pics below:
- Valve Cover is not powder coated yet and therefore not bolted on.
- Still need to come up with a spacer for the AEB timing covers to account for the taller ABA block. I have an extra set of covers, so we'll see.
- Awaiting adjustable Cam Gear to account for 1/2 tooth timing offset.
Welded an -AN fitting on the Breather Block off plate and drilled and milled the back of the Charger Bracket.
as always, Click for Larger Pics.
..ready to weld -AN Fitting


----------



## TehLonz (Oct 5, 2006)

*Re: (sdezego)*









/me drools.


----------



## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (golf198v3.0)*

loving it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*

Thanks!
Intake is now port matched, but my freaking fingers are about to fall off and I am only about 3/4 of the way there grinding and sanding the intake in prep to polish. The factory casting was the suck...
Anyway, was up at my brothers shop today to cut my wheel spacers on the lathe, so I also de-ramped, polished and painted the OBD1 ABA Throttle Body.
Pics as usual and as always, click to enlarge














_Modified by sdezego at 10:46 PM 6-23-2007_


----------



## bulldog2.G (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

shiny stuff rulez.


----------



## vdub4tw (Nov 16, 2006)

update!!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (vdub4tw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdub4tw* »_update!!

Not much to report.
I was up in NC for a week for some R&R and just got back a little while ago.
also, been waiting for 2 weeks for ZDMAK to get me the correct Headbolt Triple square bit after they sent me an 8mm long Allen







(AEB used 8MM TS and rest of the 20Vs use the poly bit). Early 8Vs use a 10mm Triple Square which I had, but was not help obviously.
i finally received it though as they stepped up and sent me the correct one at no charge.
I did decide on the color for the valve cover and hope to get it to the Powder Coater by end of the week http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Still deciding on the manifold and may do a 1/2 Polished 1/2 Powder Coat (i.e. the runners) the color of the valve cover.
Shawn


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Never a dull moment.. Because of the deck height difference in the block, shaved head and IM gear combination, the Cam timing was off 1/2 tooth. So, I ordered a TT adj cam gear (because it has the factory steel hub).
..and of course nothing is easy and the factory cam bolt/washer would not fit, so I needed to cut the washer down on the lathe.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I didn't get the valve cover off yet, because of my indecisiveness on color. But, I did break balls finishing up the intake. The factory casting was so bad...
Everyone likes pics.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

The only modification needed for the Euro AGU big port intake was to clearance the one boss over the charger.


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

And you couldnt have polished my intake like that?
Looks good, awaiting in bay pics


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Danno13)*

LOL, the above is 2 full days worth of work (including the port matching and clean up)








FWIW, the older intakes and their castings are much more conducive to polishing...


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I think my indecisiveness on the VC color paid off. I am thrilled at the results. It is a Candy Blue (silver Base).
Click for larger pics


----------



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

Pretty slick


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (Danno13)*

I guess it's okay... if you are into that sort of thing


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (leebro61)*

lookin good. That will be my winter project http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'll be going blue if you don't mind


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (leebro61)*


_Quote, originally posted by *leebro61* »_I guess it's okay... if you are into that sort of thing


















_Quote, originally posted by *G60ING* »_lookin good. That will be my winter project http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'll be going blue if you don't mind

Not one bit. The PO had my charger done by KK shortly before I bought the car in Red Powdercoat. Yuk. That will be changing, likely, to to a Silver much like the mock G60 on the engine now.
Also, I am not going to be doing too much color. Maybe just a couple more blue accents like some IC pipe couplings, etc, but that is yet to be decided. I need to obsess about it a bit more








S


----------



## hoose (Jul 28, 2007)

*Re: (sdezego)*

that's beautiful... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## potatonet (Apr 11, 2004)

twin screw perhaps?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (potatonet)*


_Quote, originally posted by *potatonet* »_twin screw perhaps?









G60


----------



## 99 wolfsburg (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

wow i was thinking about doing this.. glad to see its possible


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (99 wolfsburg)*


_Quote, originally posted by *99 wolfsburg* »_wow i was thinking about doing this.. glad to see its possible


Indeed.

Small Update:
I have been making slow progress just due to everything else going on, but will hopefully have a big surprise this weekend that will help get me in gear


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
help get me in gear









Nice play on words. I bet you think you are SOOO clever right now


----------



## G60Junky (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_*Click to Enlarge*








*Checking the Rods with Plastigage*





_Modified by sdezego at 6:14 PM 1-2-2007_


It looks like a G60 bottom end that will hit above 300 - 350 whp. I told you so you amateurs. I don't see why they have to hang around. 
Megasquirt is a good call. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60Junky)*


_Quote, originally posted by *G60Junky* »_
It looks like a G60 bottom end that will hit above 300 - 350 whp. 



From the first post on page 1:


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_...
I finally had some time to start assembly of my Hybrid *2L*-20v G60.
Here is the plan for those who don't frequent the G60 Forum:
- *2L ABA* Bored to 83mm with Custom JE Forged Pistons (9.25:1)
- *ABA OBDI* block with Forged Internals, ARP hardware, Resized and Shot peened rods

The only similarity the ABA has to the G60 (i.e. PG) bottom end is that they both had 8V heads. Other than that the ABA is is completely different animal.

_Quote, originally posted by *G60Junky* »_
... I told you so you amateurs. I don't see why they have to hang around. 


Please do not bring that into my thread. Thanks.
Shawn


----------



## Spell Check Police (Aug 13, 2007)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
Please do not bring that into my thread. Thanks.


seriously dude I thought you were aware by now that no one here likes you. maybe thats why you've been gone for so long. why don't you dissapear again **** smoke.
Build looks awesome Shawn, nice work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## G60Junky (Mar 24, 2007)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

So you're upgrading the piston size from 81.48 mm to 83 mm, for a 1.52 mm difference. 
As far as the block goes, it's practically identical. no real difference in animals here.
And, sorry about the trash talk pointed to the non-believers of custom 4 cylinder G60 bottom ends that produce above 300 - 350 whp. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60Junky)*

Do some checking on the ABA and you will see that the Engine is quite different (even in stock form) than the PG (despite its appearance).
- The Deck Height on the ABA is ~16mm Taller than the PG
- It is a 2 Liter Engine Stock with 82.5mm Bore and 92.8mm (i.e. 1984cc vs 1781cc on the PG) stock
- 159mm rod length (as opposed to 136mm PG rod length)
- Crank Triggered Ignition
- Piston Design (Wrist Pin, Skirt and Crown thickness)
The Rod Ratio or "Squareness" of the Engines are quite different due to the above.
I would rather not get into a whole discussion *in this thread* about the different engine(s) potentials, etc, but will end with one final thought:
Regardless of the above, the bottom end is somewhat irrelevant to the hp production but both are potentially capable of withstanding that much hp. It is the Head, cams, intake, exhaust, management and most importantly the forced induction system (how much Boost) that will dictate hp potential. The G60 charger is a major bottle neck above 250hp. It is an air pump of limited capacity (a matter of physics) and is restricted to a lot lower RPM than say a Turbo Motor. This is a major crux if your goal is all out hp (like it or not). But, I tend to like it as my goals are a bit different








S


----------



## HyDrOPoNiC (Aug 12, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Sweet valve cover!








Haha project looks tight man! Keep it up!


----------



## greekin2 (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

What an inspiration I tell you... I love your comment about your wife opening the oven to find the 20v head... lol !!!














http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (greekin2)*








True Story.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
Small Update:
I have been making slow progress just due to everything else going on, but will hopefully have a big surprise this weekend that will help get me in gear









The reasons progress was slow because I was getting My other Silver G60 ready for the sale (among other things). 
...and with the silver g60's departure brought this little gem. An O2m 6speed is what I wanted all along for this project and now I have it







...along with some extra parts like a whole AWP


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_ ...along with some extra parts like a whole AWP









Build a G60 bracket for it!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
Build a G60 bracket for it!










...or twin charge the 2020


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: (Retrographic)*

bump


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (d-bot)*

I love reading Shawns's threads http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Tell that spell checker to go Ufck Ihmself.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (G60ING)*









*update:*


I am now going with the 02m 6speed trans that I acquired (as mentioned). Since I have to make motor and trans mount brackets anyway, I decided to hunt down an Extra Kframe, so I can keep my running car "running" during the build, mock everything on the floor and when the swap is ready, it will go *MUCH* faster with much less last minute fabrication. I am picking up the Kframe and rear engine brkt from my buddy Jeff this weekend (which is from a Mk3). So, I will be switching to the Vr style Rear engine mount.
I will probably be using *all* of the Vr + suspension stuff for the front that I already have from the 93 Vr parting. I need to use Vr hubs regardless, so the splines from the 02m axles match up (still need to modify the length of the 02M axles regardless). The + suspension will eliminate my 10mm spacers in the front anyway and add a few mm to match my rear. I am a little concerned about scrubbing with the + though. I will have to re-drill 5Lug Hubs->4Lug unless I get new 5 Lug rims for the Ft. But this is all minor stuff that i am not worried about.
I also decided to pick up a Vr front Engine carrier to run a Vr style front engine mount. Again, I needed to fab up a new front engine bracket anyway and the Vr carrier is stronger.
1.8t Fuel rail is now modified with -AN fittings on the rail (will post pics of the mod later)
In my endless quest to make things as complicated as possible, the Serpentine belt route is pretty much decided and rear mount alternator bracket is well underway. I am using the "clutched" 1.8t 120A alt that I picked up with the AWP (which I am happy about). This setup reduces stress on the crank bolt due to rapid deceleration which is a bonus. One thing to note here is that I will be running only one accessory belt (no Serp + V belt as stock). A Serp belt will run *everything* -> (H20 Pump, PSteering, G60 Charger, Alt and A/C)! This was a trick and a half







Pics of this soon.I am having to spend a lot of time trying to research what I consider the perfect clutch setup for the 02m. This has been very frustrating due to what is currently available. Going from a 240mm clutch to a 228mm setup (as most vendors try and persuade) makes about as much sense as a horse with a kickstand. Granted my power goals are meager when compared to a Big Turbo setup, but I can't break myself to do this. ...it's like swapping your big brakes for smaller ones







. The stock Dual Mass 02m flywheel is extremely heavy, but the AL lightweight flywheels most people sell are a bad idea for reasons that I won't go into right now. Spec, makes a very nice steel Flywheel with what I am looking for in Weight (~14lbs), but I am not sure I trust their clutch setup from all of the bad raps in the past. I have no personal experience with them, but the problem is trying to find someone else with the 240mm Clutch disk and PP that is *not* for the Dual Mass and has a High Torque sprung hub. I am very close and I will post much more on this, but if anyone has any questions in the mean time, feel free to ask. Either way, it looks like I will be in for about a $G







and close to 2Gs if I add a Peloquin.

This read was for the non-window shoppers








Shawn


_Modified by sdezego at 11:42 AM 10-5-2007_


----------



## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

and it looked like you were _almost_ done


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (brilliantyellowg60)*


_Quote, originally posted by *brilliantyellowg60* »_and it looked like you were _almost_ done









LOL. Fear not, the pace will pick up as long as the funds do







.


----------



## Yohannes (Jun 19, 2005)

*Re: (sdezego)*

DUDE, I cant to see things fall in place for you.. congrats on the new things and happy friday.. maybe you get time to get some more things done this weekend..















yoyo


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
LOL. Fear not, the pace will pick up as long as the funds do







.

Anymore funds Shawn?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

Not after recently picking up the following:
- 02m Flywheel (SPEC 16lb Billet steel Single mass http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ) Thanks Scott - USRT
- ClutchNet Yellow PP and Kevlar Disc - Sorry Scott for not going with SPEC
- Genesis 550 injectors with adapters - Got a good deal on the package
- 02m Peloquin
- Complete VF mounts and all new front suspension joints/bearings (again). I think I mentioned I was going to the +suspension that I already had.
- misc 02m parts (lines, slave etc)
- Spare K frame and VR front Carrier so I can fab all mounts and such on my Bench/floor mock engine bay. I can also paint and have it ready to go with the engine. (remember, I am still driving my Corrado which is part of the reason for taking my time)


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I will have some more progress pics coming soon. I have the rear Alt setup about 99% done and serpentine belt setup about 80% done. I do not want to show any pics until it is complete though. I think I mentioned that this is a single serp belt with no vbelt! Running ALL accessories including A/C and PS









Oh yea and 02m is apart and Peloquin is pretty much installed. ...just need to order the proper diff shim.



_Modified by sdezego at 12:02 PM 11-7-2007_


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

After looking at your port work and then hearing that you didnt want to go big valve i wondered if you had ever considered titanium or lighter valves in general?
The guy that built my drag bike motor whi is a very well known custom bike builder has a dyno sheet showing a 9% increase in hp when all he did was change out vlaves on my 124" v twin


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (SLC4ME)*

In a Harley 2 valve head, definitely. Increasing the valve size along with port work can provide excellent gains.
In the 20v head, the valves are so close to each other and the CC walls, going bigger will cause valve shrouding. Still, there "may" be very minimal gains in going to the slightly larger valves that you can fit, but in my case was not justified. Also, I didn't have to replace any valves and replacements for the 20v are VERY expensive. Especially if you want to stay with Sodium filled Ex valves which the 20v has stock. INCONEL is an option, but again, very expensive.
Ti retainers and such are always a good thing or anything that can lighten the valve train for that matter, but again not justified in my case. I may consider them if I go with cams down the road.
Shawn


----------



## SLC4ME (Apr 16, 2001)

*Re: (SLC4ME)*

I didn't increase valve size due to the class an all I could do was clean up the ports and according to kendall the 9% was after only changing valves


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (SLC4ME)*

Oh, sorry I misunderstood. The 20v head is still a very advanced piece all around. The valves all have necked down stems and I don't think there is much to gain if anything in this case. There are things that are done on "Race Only" applications, like an extra back cut on the valves, etc, but this has a drastic effect on valve longevity. This project will really not be topping the hp charts like the Big Turbo 20vs you see in the 1.8t forum. It is built to last as a daily driver with respectable Hp. If I were for all out hp, then sure I would certainly be looking at nitride coated valves at an absolute min.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_If I were for all out hp....


Don't sell yourself short Shawn.
With a fresh charger, a ported AEB head and ~2L displacement, you shouldn't have a problem cracking 150whp


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (leebro61)*


_Quote, originally posted by *leebro61* »_
Don't sell yourself short Shawn.
With a fresh charger, a ported AEB head and ~2L displacement, you shouldn't have a problem cracking 150whp
















I'm shooting to break 100.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
I'm shooting to break 100.









Golf score, or horsepower?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (leebro61)*

Here are a couple of pics from what I was describing above.
Stock 02m 240mm Dual mass flywheel (26lbs)
 
Stock 02m setup vs SPEC 240mm custom 16lb billet steel flywheel with ClutchNet PP. The measured specs on the whole setup are precise. The SPEC FW is a very nice piece. I do not like Aluminum flywheels for a number of reasons. AL transmits harmonics very easily and the Steel friction plate can warp. Plus, most of them are too light for my liking.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Installing the Peloquin.
With the 02m, you can actually just remove only the case bolts and split the cases leaving all gears and shafts in the Trans side case. Otherwise you need to remove the shift tower and such like you would with the 02a.
However, I wanted to inspect all gears, syncros and shift forks (even though the trans only has 39k), so I removed everything in the end.
 
 


*Removing the Ring Gear* 
 
*I find it easier just to press the remaining rivets out*
 
*Heat up the ring gear and use the supplied 4 bolts to pull the ring gear on* 

 


*Checking the Shimming on the diff.* 
Install the new race with the factory shim on the trans case side. Install the Race ONLY on the Bell side and measure the end play. Then add .3mm for preload and that is the shim you need. I ended up needing a 1.05mm shim.


----------



## 32176G60 (Nov 3, 2004)

I'm still in Orlando. Thought I would check on things.... Amazing!


----------



## Stroked1.8t (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (32176G60)*

I know its been a while since you built your engine, but why did you use stock rods? 
Wish I had your patience. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (Stroked1.8t)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Stroked1.8t* »_I know its been a while since you built your engine, but why did you use stock rods? 
Wish I had your patience. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Fair question actually and here are the reasons:


Stock forged VW rods are proven to easily handle 300hp-350+ reliably and the ABA rods are among the strongest (no wimpy 19mm pins like a lot of 1.8ts). My rods were resized and shot peened which is proven to add up to 20% to the strength of rods. Power goals here are modest. This is not a Big Turbo motor and the G60 itself is somewhat limiting for big hp numbers. So, goals here are estimated in the 250hp range, but that will ultimately depend on how many rpm I can turn (again limited by the G60). ...but, wait until you see the torque curve and area under it as t will be a monster to drive









When I was planning and starting machine work, etc, SCAT rods were really just making their way out and becoming widespread for h2o VWs. The only options were $600-700+ Pauter, etc. In retrospect, I have about 250 in these rods with Resizing, Shot peen and ARP bolts, so now it wouldn't make sense not to go with SCATS, IE, etc.

One thing I really like about the factory rods is that they are rifle drilled, which does have it's benefits. Again, hp dictates what makes sense and money is always an object.


My patience has been getting a little thin lately as I watch others who started way after mine, finish way before mine. This project has taken much longer than expected, mainly due to my time and well $$. Also, this is definitely a one of a kind and required *a lot* of one off machine work as you will see soon with forthcoming updates. We are closing in though!
Shawn


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Very nice build...Nice to see ppl still have faith in the G60.....
Just read all 6 pages when i should be studying!!!!! 
Good luck!!!!
Michal


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (V-TEC this!!!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *V-TEC this!!!* »_Very nice build...Nice to see ppl still have faith in the G60.....
Just read all 6 pages when i should be studying!!!!! 
Good luck!!!!
Michal

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I built my own home grown Intercooled Turbo setup back in 1987 on my MkII Scirocco and logged over 80k miles on the setup in various stages. Even the Vw folks back then laughed at me (or thought I was just plain crazy) because it was unheard of back then (other than Calloway). I do what i do for me








Turbos are nice and can make big power, no question. The sound of the G60 growl and instant torque is something that only a G60 owner can comprehend








..after all, how much power can you keep to the ground on a street driven FWD anyway








S


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I know what you mean......Im a die hard G60 nut aswell.....I went overboard and actually baught a blown g-ladder and taught myself to do a stage 4 rebuild. 
I agree with you about the torque and sound........
I am planning and collecting parts for a aba/g60.....one day when I have money and time it will become a reality!!!!!
Ill need some of your tips for stopping oil leaks!!!!








I still love the look on ppls faces when i tell them its a 8v supercharged!!!!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

This progress update will not be all that exciting, but it is progress for issues that needed to be resolved.
1.) I was not happy with the stock barb connections on the fuel rail
2.) The AEB and Euro AGU both came with the early garden variety Bosch EV1 Injectors. To upgrade to the later (much better) Bosch EV6, you would need to either get a custom rail made, manifold or do what I did.

The pics tell the story. 
First I cut the barbs off of the rails.


Then I inserted the rear compression fitting along with the brass ferrell onto the pipe. I flared the end of the pipe so that the fittings could NEVER come apart. 


I then cleaned and used Red Loctite on the pipe and Ferrell for piece of mind.


...Injectors mods to the manifold mentioned above
The only thing to note is that the rail bosses, must be carefully drilled deeper and then tapped so that a decent length bolt can still be used. I went ~ the distance that was cut off (12.75mm or .5") w/o any issue.


Euro AGU big port mani next to the AWP.




...continued in next post...


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

...continued from previous post...

After cutting them both .5" and cleaning them up with a flat AL rasp






Exactly like the EV1s fit


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Teaser pic








Here it is: Serpentine belt to drive all accessories and *no* V belt. Note, this same setup could be used w/o Power steering and/or A/C (which would certainly simplify things).
Everything is fabricated so what you see is "ready to run"! I just need to take it back down, pretty up all the brackets a bit and paint them. Needless to say, the development and creation of this setup was a painstakingly long process. I can't begin to tell you how much time I have in it is hard to see all of the custom mounts in this pic







Everything was carefully and methodically done the way you see it, so if you have any questions on why I did something feel free to ask.
All I ask, is that if you copy the setup, you give me proper credits








Shawn

*Click for larger pic*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Here is a rundown of the setup:
- Late 1.8t 120A Alt with decoupling (clutched pulley)
- 1.8t PS pump and pulley
- Custom PS pump mount/setup
- Mk3 rear Engine Bracket (could use the G60 3 bolt if you wanted)
- Rear Alt/Engine brkt with rear spine and additional support mount to Engine brkt.
- Top Alt bracket
- Custom Tensioner mount (tensioner shock, roller, brkt arm and pin are stock G60)
- Custom Relay Roller and bracket (and modified G60 bracket).
- 8v Cam belt tensioner
- Serp belt of undisclosed length
- G60 non-A/C ribbed waterpump pulley


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*









You are the king of idler pulleys


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (leebro61)*


_Quote, originally posted by *leebro61* »_ 
You are the king of idler pulleys









Only 1 more than stock








I despised that V belt setup. The factory had about 4 separate brackets and it all looked like a bad afterthought.... Plus, you hit a puddle and the PS goes out for a sec or two LOL


----------



## jeffr_vws (Jan 22, 2003)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

PS is for whimps!!! 








Oh and who cares if the ps stops working when you hit a puddle. How often does it rain down here shawn?!








Hope all is well, waiting on my euro seatbelt setup. Also think I'm going to pick up one of those ultra expensive neuspeed short shifters. Since I have all the exhaust out and what not anyway it's right there.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (jeffr_vws)*









Progress has been slow, but I should have a few update pics coming up of the Mock engine and trans in mock engine bay. ...making of the mounts.
I found and received the correct bolt/studs for the 02m Starter as the factory ones were too short for the 8v Block. I also had to order the Mk3 Front engine brkt for use on the Vr front carrier. I still need to modify it, but the G60/Mk2 brkt will not work because of the mount face angle etc. I wanted to make sure the engine was tip top in the factory spot before I start fabbing the 02m rear Trans mount.
Shawn


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Very nice...I cant wait for more updates!!!!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








cheers Michal


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Progress has been slow...

As mentioned I had 2 snags before being able to start making the 02m Rear Mount
- 1.) The 02m Starter Bolts were way too short to make it though the starter and 058 block and leave enough room for the mount and nuts
- 2.) The G60 (mk2 4cyl) front engine brkt will not work using the Vr front engine carrier even when using the proper engine mount. Not that I could't re-make a whole new mount, but I wanted the engine/trans positioned in the stock location FIRST, before fabbing the rear trans mount.
I found (after a LOT of searching) the perfect studs for the starter, and after ordering a new Mk3 4 cyl front engine brkt, it proved to be the ticked to get everything as situated. It is very stout and I will likely just add a triangular mount point to the lower starter stud.

Click for bigger Pics (as usual)
*Shows the problem using the G60/Mk2 Engine brkt with the Vr carrier/mount* 
 



*Now, using the Mk3 4cyl Engine brkt







*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

...and for the naysayers that you can properly mount the 02m w/o moving the rear trans Subframe mount cup, sorry, but you are wrong. The Cup MUST be moved back (1/4-1/2") to clear the CV or else your engine will have to be cocked.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_...and for the naysayers that you can properly mount the 02m w/o moving the rear trans Subframe mount cup, sorry, but you are wrong. The Cup MUST be moved back (1/4-1/2") to clear the CV or else your engine will have to be cocked.

Shawn I believe thats the principle of the Dutch dub kit:
















http://www.dutchdub.com/Webnew/O2M/o2mmount.htm


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Wizard-of-OD)*

Indeed, but there have been many threads of people questioning and complaining about why the Dutch Dub mount requires you to move the trans cup back. Not really new news, but hopefully the pics will illustrate the fact that you must to the people who still think they can get away w/o moving it.


----------



## bulldog2.G (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (bulldog2.G)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bulldog2.G* »_Thoroughly Jealous, Shawn.








.....AND...still.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: (bulldog2.G)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## bigtoy302 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_...and for the naysayers that you can properly mount the 02m w/o moving the rear trans Subframe mount cup, sorry, but you are wrong. The Cup MUST be moved back (1/4-1/2") to clear the CV or else your engine will have to be cocked.


Ding,ding,ding winnar.
I moved my back a 1/4" also.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

small update. Baseball season is almost over, so I should have some free time again. 
Front motor mount is done (sans clean up and powder coat). Should be strong enough








waterJet > Plasma but unfortunately, I have neither. I went to my neighbor's house and I have a feeling that he does not really know how to use his plasma cutter. Not very clean cuts as I expected, but that just adds a little grinding time.











_Modified by sdezego at 11:46 PM 5-1-2008_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

...patiently awaiting. Been driving it a lot lately with gas prices.


----------



## 3A_G60_MAN (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Been watching this thread for a while. Now subscribed.







Can't wait to see the graph for this engine.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (3A_G60_MAN)*








..been making some progress and have the trans mount about 75% done. Making 2 just for giggles.
I'll get some more pics up soon.

I spent a few days on a detour and made up a nice box tucked in the drivers rear hatch side for my 10" sub and got rid of the 6x9 in the parcel. Sounds real nice and looks much cleaner


----------



## 3A_G60_MAN (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (sdezego)*

What are the ratios on the 02m box you are using and what size wheel and tire are you using?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (3A_G60_MAN)*

Running the ERR code box. I have the ratios here somewhere, but can't locate them right now. It was out of an '03 Beetle Turbo S.
I am running 17's, but currently 40series tires (+2). I may have to make some tweaks to get things exactly how I want them. I need to do some gearing calcs first and I have not done that to date.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

That extra o2m mount is for me right?








Keep up the good work!


----------



## 3A_G60_MAN (May 29, 2008)

*Re: (sdezego)*

I'm sure you'll check but these are your ratio for that box
1st 3.417	2nd 2.105	3rd 1.481	4th 1.152	5th 1.167	6th 0.970	1st Final 3.88	2nd Final 3.10 
And this is how it works out on 17's with tyres 235mm wide with 45% of that in tyre wall revving to 6200rpm what do you intend to rev to?
Gearbox:- ERR 02M
Tyre:- Michelin all patterns 235/45 x 17
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Top Gear gives 24.298 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 150.646 MPH at 6200 RPM
Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1235 RPM 40 MPH = 1646 RPM 50 MPH = 2058 RPM 60 MPH = 2469 RPM
70 MPH = 2881 RPM 80 MPH = 3292 RPM 90 MPH = 3704 RPM 100 MPH = 4116 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 34.168 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 3819 RPM dropping 2381 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 55.463 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4362 RPM dropping 1838 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 78.832 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 4823 RPM dropping 1377 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 101.346 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5016 RPM dropping 1184 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 125.269 MPH
And changes into 6 gear at 5156 RPM dropping 1044 RPM
Top Speed in 6 gear = 150.646 MPH
******************************************************************************************
Yes I was a bit bored........







What size pulley have you decided to use?


_Modified by 3A_G60_MAN at 12:53 PM 6-19-2008_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (3A_G60_MAN)*

Thanks, and I guess you did have some spare time, LOL Yea, those are the gearing specs for the ERR.
After you inquired, it did give me some ambition last night to dig out my specs. I also did a but of searching and found this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3706971 
There is some really good info in there as well as the Excel spreadsheets that the one guy posted







.
I had written a gear and shift calculator program years ago, but these put it to shame








When I get some time I will plot out some data of the 02m vs the ATA (02a) that is in there now. Ideally, it would be good to have a bit bigger tire or a slightly taller R&P, but in looking at the data, it is still not as bad as the current 02a (1st and second).
As far as the pulley, I have measured belts and tensioner mount points for the 68 and the stock pulley. I want to rev to at least 6500, so that is pushing the 68 but the charger has the uprated timer bearings and such. I just don't like pressing my luck even though there are some folks really revving the G60. Again, I don't see myself spending much time up that high anyway, except maybe for some Dynos and some occasional trips to the strip (which I rarely if ever do).








Shawn


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (sdezego)*

Update:
Trans/motor mounts are complete!! I don;t have a pic of the final mount Tig'ed up, but it is all done. I also added a side brace to the rear trans mount for overkill. I will get a pic of the completed mount.
I cur off the alignment nibs off of the trans mount as they just got in the way. I also needed to grind the side of it that faces the D/S inner CV as well as the subframe cup as illustrated above (even with relocating the cup). This just gives better clearance and I have about 1/2" clearance or more between the mounts and the 02m CV.
*click for bigger pics*


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: (sdezego)*

As I scrolled I went from -> "okay... now that's better... good idea... perfect"







Let's get this thing going


----------



## lorentz (Apr 7, 2003)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_...patiently awaiting. Been driving it a lot lately with gas prices.
 

You should really stop complaining about the gas price in the US, try living in sweden where the gas price is almost THREE TIMES HIGHER!!!


----------



## natek102 (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: (sdezego)*

that bracket looks sweet shawn! were did you get an idea like that?







I bet there is someone out there that would like you to make them one for their project!!!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (natek102)*


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (natek102)*


_Quote, originally posted by *natek102* »_that bracket looks sweet shawn! were did you get an idea like that?







I bet there is *everyone* out there that would like you to make them one for their project!!!









FIXED!


----------



## d-bot (Sep 6, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Wizard-of-OD* »_
FIXED!

ROFL. surprise!


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: (d-bot)*


_Quote, originally posted by *d-bot* »_
ROFL. surprise!









@ the rate I am going I should have YOU build my headers


----------



## Sciroccomann (Jan 12, 2004)

*Re: (Wizard-of-OD)*

update... neeeeeeed update... 

hope you're having a good summer man! 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

*UPDATES???*









Excellent work all around sir. I envy your craftsmanship (and collection of machine/fab tooling). How about some garage pics for those of us that like the smell of cutting fluid? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: UPDATES??? (ClownTrigger)*








thanks. Most of what I have in my garage are just extensive Hand tools and such. 
I do have a 20T Press, Cherry Picker, Med size drill press, Miller 25dx TIG, a Snap on MIG, chop saw and torches.
For anything else, I go up to my brothers/our Harley shop. Not an extensive machine shop, but a small lathe, center hone, Beab blaster, etc. We did just get a Gen II bridgeport though








I took the old Benchmaster Mill home, but have yet to have the time to get it setup.

My project has crept very slowly. Too busy at work, other projects, Coaching and wife/kids. I hope to get back into full gear here soon. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

I can totally relate with the lack of time problem. I have wife/kids, projects, and lots of work myself. I just put in a new furnace this weekend. 
I've been trying to get my work to buy a mill and a lathe for years, but all we've gotten are a Delta belt sander, band saw, and drill press. Of course our remote office has a nice little machine shop, but they're six hours away.


----------



## VR62NV (Sep 28, 2001)

*Re: (ClownTrigger)*

Great project. Not sure how I missed this thread for the past two years. Love the fact you are using the G60. It may not have the power output a turbo does but it sure is a cool little air pump. Keep up the good work. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: (VR62NV)*

Shawn you do great work! Keep the updates coming!!! Thank you so much for the custom crank pulley.


----------



## ThaCorradoKid (May 26, 2004)

subscribed, and very jealous. This should be a hell of an engine...


----------



## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

I know this is probably well documented somewhere else, and I'm sure you've done your homework, but is the compressor map of a stage-iv g-lader suited to the amount of air that that head can flow? How small of a pulley can you run before hitting the surge limit (or other limiting factor)? I'm really just curious to the capabilities of the G-lader.


----------



## natek102 (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: (ClownTrigger)*

looks like life is taking over Shawn! lol hopefully you can get some time this winter. I think i might be on track to beat you now







i picked up a condo last month, so the last two months have been completely occupied with that.







at least it was money making instead of money spending http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## GruvenCorrado (Jun 17, 2003)

*Re: (natek102)*








WOW, very impressive build! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif for not cutting any corners


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: (GruvenCorrado)*

Thanks! Progress has been very slow as I had a lot of projects come by that were more pressing. I should have a few updates soon and hope to get back in gear.


----------



## canadadry (May 26, 2008)

*Re: (sdezego)*


----------



## Junkyard Hero (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (bigtoy302)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bigtoy302* »_
Ding,ding,ding winnar.
I moved my back a 1/4" also.


instead of moving the mount back why not make the mount bracket 1/4" longer? not trying to be an ass just trying to understand


----------



## brilliantyellowg60 (Aug 30, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Mat_16V)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Mat_16V* »_
instead of moving the mount back why not make the mount bracket 1/4" longer? not trying to be an ass just trying to understand

the mount is in the way of the driver side axle


----------



## Junkyard Hero (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (brilliantyellowg60)*

so you move the mount AND have a longer bracket? does this only need to be done with an o2m or an o2j as well


----------



## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Mat_16V)*

The CV flanges on the 02M are larger than on the 02A and 02J, so with the correct orientation of the engine and transmission the CV joint will hit that mount cup. You have to move the cup to clear the CV joint, otherwise the engine will be twisted, as will the axles.
Since you have to make a mount for that side anyway you might as well move the cup and have everything straight http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (MikkiJayne)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MikkiJayne* »_...You have to move the cup to clear the CV joint, otherwise the engine will be twisted, as will the axles. 

Yep!

_Quote, originally posted by *MikkiJayne* »_
Since you have to make a mount for that side anyway you might as well move the cup and have everything straight http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

Absolutely. Moving the cup takes about 35 minutes total, so I am not sure why anyone would try and work around not moving it. 
- 5 min getting the sawzall out
- 5 min to cut it
- 15 minutes prepping and wire brushing paint off
- 10 minutes to MIG.

As for making just the rear 02m bracket, well I have about 100x's more time than that.


----------



## lloydbiker (Sep 26, 2008)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

I see you went with two pins in the crank gear at 120-240 instead of the original planned one, at 180. Any particular reason? Why not three, at 90-180-270, for max strength?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (lloydbiker)*

I went with one on my current PG, G60 when the bolt snapped. The motor was original and has 190k on it and about 180 when it snapped. I decided to go with two on this setup just for giggles and a bit of symmetry. More than one is really overkill IMO, but none the less, most of what I do is overkill anyway








Shawn


----------



## natek102 (Oct 19, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Hi Shawn,
How is your project going? I haven't seen an update in awhile. I haven't jumped on in 8 months so i assumed you had beaten me. My project is in the final wiring stages so i should be running in a month.


----------



## 32176G60 (Nov 3, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_I have done nothing on the project in the last 6 months








I had to re prioritize some things and the economy has hit us pretty hard at work..
I hope to get back in gear soon. Good to hear about yours though!

Just checking in again. Hope things are going well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (32176G60)*

Hey Tim,
I just started getting back in gear. Work "may" be picking back up, but thing were horrible for a while and cuts throughout. '09 = very bad year all around


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Outside of gathering a bunch of parts and such, progress has been slow up until a couple of weeks ago and I got quite a few things done. It took a request to make one of my 02M mounts for a friend to really get me motivated










I seam welded my KFrame and shortened the Mk3 Rear legs for the Corrado - Sry, No Pics ATM
Modified my Fan shroud for the SPAL
Finished up all Engine brkets
Got stuff ready to sandblast and paint
KFrame
Entire ft Vr suspension
Vr Ft Engine carrier
new Lower Rad support
All custom engine brackets and mounts


*Pics of 02m Mount:*
 
 

 

 
*Modified Fan Shroud for SPAL* (idea from Frank aka G60ing)

 

 

*With Studs welded on*
 



_Modified by sdezego at 9:14 PM 11-20-2009_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Flywheel and clutch install. I have a template to make the lower trans dust shield, since the Mk4 oil pan bolts to the Trans. I guess if I had a Schrick oil pan, I would weld tabs for the trans.

 

 

 

VW Lug wrench comes through again for clutch lineup on the 02m, with a couple of wraps of metal tape


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Final Trans assembly with peloquin and paint.
*Proper Diff Preload shim installed*
 

 

 

*Self Etching Primer*

 

 



_Modified by sdezego at 2:33 PM 11-20-2009_


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Nice work! Good to see you updating your thread.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (dogger)*

If I didn't mention that your thread helped motivate me to get back on track I would be lying


----------



## bigtoy302 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Hurry up already. I am dying of old age. I want to see this thing done.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (bigtoy302)*


_Quote, originally posted by *bigtoy302* »_Hurry up already. I am dying of old age. I want to see this thing done.
















My daughter doubled in age since I started this project, LOL

I am working on the axle lengths (remember I am switching to the + suspension). 
There is a lot of ambiguity in this regard, so I took my own measurements and calculations. I may wait until I get my subframe, control arms, etc finished and bolt everything together to measure the distances from the Trans Flanges to the wheel hub inner flanges. Here is a thread I have added info to -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3610564, but I will post the specifics here.

*Measurements from Bellhousing Face to CV Flange:*
*02a* - (NOTE: 3mm CV flange Recess taken into account)
D/S --------------- P/S
206.55mm ------ 37.7mm
Total Diff Width -Flange to Flange = 244.25mm

*02m*
D/S ---------- P/S
242.24mm ------ 57.8mm
Total Diff Width -Flange to Flange = 300.04mm

Total Diff Width Differences and thus net axle length difference = 55.79mm (2.2")
Based on each Flange Measurements:
02m D/S Axle = -20.1mm *(-.79")*
02m P/S Axle = -35.69mm *(-1.41")*
These measurements, I am pretty confident with. The tricky part is measuring the axle lengths in comparison, since the inner CV's can move in and out and throw off measurements as well as the fact that 02m inner CV are Tripods, so a direct comparison is a bit difficult to be precise.
*Here is what I have for axle measurements (Flange to Bearing)*
Stock Corrado Vr (+ suspension):
27 7/8" - 18 5/8"
Calculated Lengths using my above calcs based on Vr + axles:
27" and 17 1/4"
Nate's Reported Measurements:
26 13/16" and 16 1/2"
Blk95VR6 (verifying):
27 5/16" and 16 3/4"
Rycou (DSS axles) (just purchased and just measured):
26 7/8" and 17 5/8"
--------------
So, I am pretty confident that ~27" on the P/S Axle is correct.
But, you can see the discrepancies on the D/S axle. I can easily see that a measurement can be 1/4" off due to the inner CV position, but this is more.
FWIW my stock Beetle Turbo S short axle is 17 3/8" which is pretty darn close if not usable as is. P/S is 28 5/8", so it def needs to be shortened.


----------



## bigtoy302 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

When I figured my axle lengths I had all the front suspension on and weight on the vehicle. I cut the shafts in half with the cv still on slid both halves of the shafts in and overlapped the cut ends ends. I cut off how ever much hung over and then welded them up. I ended up taking off 1.5" off the long side and .5 off the short side. This was NON + suspension.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (bigtoy302)*

Thanks, that is pretty close to my calcs above (1.41" and .79").
Regardless whether it is plus or non-plus, the amount the axles must be shortened will be the same. The final lengths (plus or non-plus) will obviously be different.
Yea, I will probably wait until the last minute to shorten them and measure the actual axle length need (Flange to bearing) with the car's weight on the suspension.
Lowering the car will definitely change things slightly and I know that being "EXACT" not that critical as there is room for forgiveness with the inner CV.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Looks amazing so far, can't wait to see the last few pieces come together


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (leebro61)*

Nice Progress http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (G60ING)*

Thanks! Motor and Trans are one. 
Started on the wiring too. I acquired a brand new AWP harness with my orig trade/swap and this harness is about 80% of what I need for megasquirt, so I don't have to build from scratch. I felt kind of dirt though cutting off the factory ECu plugs-










The factory convoluted tubing and connectors are not my favorite, but since I am using a lot of the harness in tact, I am fine with it.
Here is a sample of one of the plugs that needed to be changed. Since the pin sizes were different for the 2 coolant plugs, I could not just repin to the new housing.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_










I need to learn how to do this badly. It's coming along nicely.


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Forty-six and 2)*

Hey, I modified my shroud to accept my spal fan the same way.







Except I didnt weld studs to the shroud, I made 4 spacers and I used nuts and bolts. I cnc'd my shroud and made a press fit for the fan. 
Looking really good, cant wait to see it done.
GL, Mike


----------



## deth_core (Jul 12, 2002)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_







My daughter doubled in age since I started this project, LOL

...that makes her 20 now?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Forty-six and 2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Forty-six and 2* »_I need to learn how to do this badly. It's coming along nicely.









This was my first 02m and I can say that it is a hundred times easier to work on than the 020 and 02a!

_Quote, originally posted by *deth_core* »_
...that makes her 20 now?








it feels like it's been 10 years.. When you are driving your Corrado daily and everything is tip top, it's hard to rush and tear it apart









Seriously though, if you see all of the custom brkts, fab work etc for the motor alone (I have not really posted those details), you can see why it has been a long time coming. I spent last weekend just prepping and painting all of the brkts, mounts and misc parts.. Good progress the last week though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

..she said she would help paint it I let her ride her motorcycle








 


_Modified by sdezego at 11:42 PM 12-7-2009_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*








Shiny stuff


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Some pics showing a lot of the custom brackerty I made. Most of which will be completely hidden so I am not sure why I spent so much time prepping and painting







(outside of the rear alt mount setup).
As Always, click for larger pics ->
*Custom front support for custom Mk4 PS brkt to run all on serpentine belt*
 
*Custom Rear mount Mk4 Alt support*
 
*Custom brkt for using G60 Serp tensioner arm in my single belt setup*
 

*Front view of above*
 
*Side view of PS mount*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*

Also, The crank bolt was never installed yet as I was trying to decide whether to use the 6pt or 12 pt 16v crank bolt. After researching and acquiring both, the 6pt is actually 10.9 grade and the 12 pt is 8.8.
Anyone who knows the 058 block/crank knows the bolt is always a problem and especially so on the G60, which is the reason for my over obsession. There is a bit more at stake here than on the non-interference 8v.
Anyway, after searching, I just found what I think may be an ARP solution from a completely different application. Even though my cog is pinned (earlier in this thread), extra insurance is never a bad thing. ...granted a $35 extra insurance








I will post up the details when the ARP hardware arrives in the next 7-10 days.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Also, The crank bolt was never installed yet as I was trying to decide whether to use the 6pt or 12 pt 16v crank bolt. After researching and acquiring both, the 6pt is actually 10.9 grade and the 12 pt is 8.8.


I hope you make the right decision on the crank bolt, since I will be using the same one that you decide on.
Nice fab work on the brackets. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif If you can see it or not, it still needs to be pretty. 

Oh, and where is the excitement in this thread? I have been patiently waiting...sukka


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: Project Build: sc2020 (Forty-six and 2)*

haha, I knew you were going to post that


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

Ah the 4 year engine build by Shawn








So when is this going to make its way INTO a corrado???


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_By this time next year, at least







Hopefully soon (my soon anyway) ..










If old age gives me that much patience I don't want to get old


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

Looks good Shawn. I appreciate the attention to detail and OCD! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dogger)*

Thanks!
*Crank Bolt Dilemma solved:*
Full details in a post I made in the 16v Forum (16v Crank bolt - ARP solution for the obsessive type..., but recap is below.
We all know the 058 block/crank bolt fails, so In my over-obsession I was searching on the best bolt to use for this motor, since there is a lot at stake. 
You may know that VW used two different bolts over the years on 16v's (possibly 3 if you look in the Bentley, but I will ignore since I have no info on the 3rd other than torque specs). There was a 6pt bolt which was 46mm in length and used a 7mm thick washer, and the later 12 pt bolt which was 39mm and used no washer.
I bought them both from VW and here are some facts:
- Thread and pitch are 14mm x 1.5
- The 6pt is 10.9 grade @ 46mm
- The 12 pt is 8.8 grade







@ 39mm
- 8vs are 10.9 FYI and shorter of course @ 33mm
- Diesels and 06a blocks use a larger diameter bolt (16mm and ARP now makes a solution).
_Note: (46mm 6pt bolt - 7mm washer = 39mm 12pt)_
*Here are the tq specs:*

_Quote, originally posted by *206danebmx* »_....
This is exactly what the bentley says:
6 sided bolt with washer---137 lb-ft
Hex head bolt with washer--111 lb-ft
12 sided bolt with collar (no washer)--66 lb-ft + 1/2 turn


So, I started searching high and low for a hardened Stud and aircraft style nut, but was hard at finding what I wanted. I started looking through ARP's catalog to cross reference something and much to my surprise, I found *two ARP possibilities*.
1.) Mitsu - 2L (4G63) - 14mx1.5 x 1.525" (38.7mm) - ARP#207-2501
2.) Ford Duratec (1.8 & 2L) - - 14mx1.5 x 1.735" (44.1mm) - ARP#251-2501
They both come with a hardened 1/4" (6.35mm) washer which we would not use in either case because it is too large in diam. 
So, I ordered #2 becuase it is longer (much like the PL bolt and I figured I could use some std hardened washer to take up some of the length and still end up with more thread bite in the crank. *Note:* The 6pt 46mm factory bolt is just about 1-2mm too long w/o using the 7mm washer and just starts to bottom out in the ABA crank as it makes contact, but could vary from crank to crank.
So, you can see that #2 above looks like it is a pretty darn good match when using the washer (and poss #1 if w/o the washer if the shoulder is large enough). 
--------------------------->
I received the bolt and here are the deets.
Perfect length, perfect thread, but the head was unfortunately too big. Now, this could still be used as is, but you would have no way of getting the harmonic balancer on/off (not too good). So, I went up to the shop and threw it up on the lathe to trim the bolt head down a tad so that it fits through the Balancer hole.
Looks like it is now a winner. You can either use the thick stock 6 sided 16v washer with it, or get a thinner 14mm one from the hardware store which is what I did. This will actually give more threads to the crank which was no prob for my ABA crank.
Pics (click for larger image):
*in comparison to the stock PL 6 sided bolts that uses the thick washer*
 

* Head a tad too big*
 
 

*Shaved a tad down on the lathe*
 
Did someone say OCD?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Also, for reference:
ARP bolts are 200,000 PSI bolts which puts them at a 12.9 hardness







and is impossible to find our size bolt in that spec. I wasn't even able to source a 10.9 bolt outside of the factory VW in a few hours of searching.
Also, if you are the engineering type and care to compare bolt strengths, here you go:
http://www.boltdepot.com/faste....aspx 


_Modified by sdezego at 11:42 AM 1-7-2010_


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Couple of fairly recent pics of some stuff I am working on.
- Making a timing belt cover to account for the tall ABA block (not finished in the pics) out of a few AEB ones.
- Starting to organize the harness
- Started making the custom coolant hard pipes
- Bolting some more stuff on for good


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Also, rebuilt my 1.8t 120 Amp Alt. No finished pic, but it is done.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Awesome work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (leebro61)*

This is great you went through all of this work to find a better solution Shawn. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks for sharing too!


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (dogger)*

Shawn has been doing some of the most awesome research and progress updates I have seen yet. 
Cheers, keep up the good work.
Mike


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (V-TEC this!!!)*

Your motor turned out amazing! The fab work is absolutely stunning. I can't wait to see it in the car. What kind of power do you expect to make?


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (Forty-six and 2)*

Don't know if any of you remember the SNL skit with Phil Hartman, The Anal Retentive Chef? He starts cooking something but because of his OCD he never actually finishes.








http://www.hulu.com/watch/4101...-chef


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (dogger)*

LOL, I miss Phil Hartman


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_LOL, I miss Phil Hartman

a moment of silence for phil please....

epic build,
carry on please http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Adding the Euro Shifter information here. For those who are unaware, there is a Euro Lupo that uses the 02m/02j shift mechanism in a box that fits 02a tunnels.
The Following 3 parts are needed to convert.
ETKA shows these to cross ref to:
CA '96-'03 Caddy
LU '99-'03 Lupo / Lupo 3L TDi
LU '04-'06 Lupo / Lupo 3L TDi
PO '95-'00 Polo / Derby
PO '00-'02 Polo / Derby
POC '00-'02 Polo Classic / Variant
I should also give credit to the thread that I first saw them in -> My VR6T 4-motion project.


_Quote, originally posted by *vr64motion* »_Had to look it up.
3 parts:
6N0 711 061 A House
6N0 711 090 A Ground plate
6N0 711 611 C Choise arm
You need all 3. Cost about 70 euro's


Here is is from my research thread -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1

This stuff is well worth the price to have an OEM solution. I am sure we can all fab up the parts and hack up our tunnel to make the 02m box fit in, but I would much rather spend my time on other more valuable areas.
I swapped out the parts this afternoon and it was simple and straightforward. 
NOTE: The 02m stick is about 2.25" taller than the 02a (even in the new box). So, I cut it off, and put a die for 12x1.5mm threads to use the STD earlier Shift knobs, but you could cut a groove to use the Mk4+.








Click for larger pics.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The shaft size it a tad big for the 12x1.5mm Tap, but it can be done. The Threads just don't come out perfect, but it's only holding on a shift knob anyway


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

looks great


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VRT)*

Thanks Rob.
Here is what I have been working on. Coolant Pipes, Timing Cover and misc BS that you never think about doing hybrid stuff until you run into it.
Since the ABA is a tall deck block, there are no Timing covers that work, so I grafted to upper AEBs to account for the 15mm difference. You can see the start above, but I merged them for good today. I also had to remove the bump out to clear the belt going to the rear mount alt.

 

 

I also threw a few rivets and backer in there for good luck..


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Coolant pipes....
I took the G60 lower and the ABA upper, cut and grafted them to clear the 02m nicely, Also added a brkt to support.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

..and the throttle brkt that I needed to make fore the Euro AGU intake for good measure.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Next off is making up my Flywheel lock to torque the ARP crank bolt to button up the rest of the front of the motor and make a Special T for the Coolant bypass circuit off of the head flange. I bought the AL pipe to do this, but just need to take it up to the lathe.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Beautiful work!
This motor is really looking good even with the time bomb attached to it.


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Looks good. I was just thinking about the coolant pipe, is just mild steel? I was thinking about making mine wrap under the motor, so was just curious what to use when I need to add sections.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Forty-six and 2)*

yep. mild steel. Under the motor (between the oil pan and the trans) is actually an interesting idea. I think there is enough room on the back side to clear the axle Flange. It just needs to come up and tie into the Heater Core return as well as the Expansion tank (if you are going to run one).


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

nice idea, I used the 1.8t pipe and blocked of the end on my 20/20. It seems to follow the block near the head


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Exactly. I am running a coolant res and heater core, so keeping it all off of the bellhousing would be ideal. How does the pipe not corode?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Forty-six and 2)*

They corrode from the outside just due to poor paint.. On the inside, Mild steel is fine as long as there is proper coolant mix.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VRT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRT* »_nice idea, I used the 1.8t pipe and blocked of the end on my 20/20. It seems to follow the block near the head 

I assume you are referring to the AEB 1.8t? If so, I looked at that one, but the AEB H20 pump only has the lower bypass nipple on the pump. all other transverse 8vs, have the bottom nipple that run the bypass circuit through the heater core where the upper nipple on the pump is used for the internal recirc from the head.
I will be working on my upper (recirc from head coolant Flange) shortly and as mentioned, I will be creating a T between the head Flange and the Upper Rad Hose. You can see in the pics that I will be using the 8v Hose (non-h20/oil cooler hose) that normally went to the front Head flange on Digi/8vs and it is perfect to direct to the T that I will be making. The T and pipe to that hose will be one piece.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Bypass Coolant pipe. Was able to make it up to the shop and spent some time on the lathe yesterday and welded it up today. I still need to add a support brkt or two.


----------



## crisvr6 (Jun 14, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

watched the whole thread, really good work man ! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

So mild steel is even ok for the flanges that attach to the head right? I guess I never thought much about what I can just build to make routing everything look cleaner and easier to place sensors.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *Forty-six and 2* »_So mild steel is even ok for the flanges that attach to the head right? I guess I never thought much about what I can just build to make routing everything look cleaner and easier to place sensors.


I would think the only issue with mild steel for them is the worry of rusting since it is a coolant flange.
Makes things nice since you can just use GM sensors instead of easytherm


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Forty-six and 2)*

Yea, should be fine and rust should not be a prob with the proper coolant mix. Again, the lower Rad coolant pipe as well as bypass pipes are all thin wall mild steel. They will rust if run str8 water, etc.


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Looks good Shawn!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*

Got quite a bit of stuff done over the last couple of weeks, but I have had a project (not pertaining to this build) that I can not show here








Here are a couple of pic from some more time consuming bs... Oh, If anyone wants to rent my paint booth, LMK








Click for bigger pics.


----------



## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_Got quite a bit of stuff done over the last couple of weeks, but I have had a project (not pertaining to this build) that I can not show here










C'mon 'fess up! What'cha been up to?


----------



## Forty-six and 2 (Jan 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (MikkiJayne)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MikkiJayne* »_
C'mon 'fess up! What'cha been up to?








I have seen it! I have share, sorry Shawn. It's a hand made carbon and suede swing that hangs in his bedroom! Amphenol connectors for the led's and strobe's! A must for vibrations resistance. The contraption hit to high on the kink meter to make it to the pages of the vortex!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Forty-six and 2)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Forty-six and 2* »_







I have seen it! I have share, sorry Shawn. It's a hand made carbon and suede swing that hangs in his bedroom! Amphenol connectors for the led's and strobe's! A must for vibrations resistance. The contraption hit to high on the kink meter to make it to the pages of the vortex!




















_Quote, originally posted by *MikkiJayne* »_
C'mon 'fess up! What'cha been up to?








IM sent


----------



## G60Scuzz (Nov 14, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

It looks amazing, I hadn't seen this thread in couple of years and but when I saw the thread title my mouth instantly watered as the memories were instantly recalled of your previous pictures.
You sir have done some of the cleanest work I have ever seen








Thanks for the bolt writeup that will be a huge help for my next 4cyl buildup. (I just dowel-pinned the last 2 cranks that I had) http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

so what are your plans for a header? exhaust end?
burns stainless merge collector and other good stuff?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VR SEX* »_so what are your plans for a header? exhaust end?
burns stainless merge collector and other good stuff?

Up toward the beginning of the thread, I pictured the Supersprint Mk2/3 16V Header that I bought new for a small fortune. The plan was to reflange it and tweak the pipes (offset between 16v and 20v is only about 1/2 inch).
However, at the time, I completely forgot that the 16v Head's Exhaust face is 90* with the block deck (like the 8v). Whereas, the 20v is on an inward angle of 20* (so 70* with the block deck). So, to use the 16v header and reflange, I would also need to come off the flange first with 20* turns to connect to the header...
I do have another 16v 2L motor, so I may just keep the SS header for that and make my own, but as always time is money.
Another option is that Raceland now makes an exact replica of the SS header for an absurd price of $140, I may consider getting that and then hacking as described above and I won't feel too bad. Their headers are actually an amazing quality for the price and I don't know how they freaking do it... I Guess like everything else, 5 letters C H I N A


_Modified by sdezego at 11:00 AM 2-23-2010_


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

If your going to hack up a cheapy 4 branch you might as well experiment with different merge collectors or possibly try either a twin y or a 4into 1
Haw many variations are there to the intake manifolds on the 20v I know there is the ds/ps tb vairants and a large port for the longitudinal motor. I'm sure there is something to be gained with that alone.








What I meant to say is you've done alot of work already whats a little more








I probably shouldn't mention all the different cam profiles either or having john from drc grind you something 
don't listen to me though... i'll just empty your wallet








perhaps this is why my project is going no where fast










_Modified by VR SEX at 11:48 AM 2-23-2010_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

IIRC WolfGTI did this on his ITB 20v, just hacked apart a 16v header and used a 20v head flange.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*

haha, I hear you.
1.) Both the Supersprint as well as the Raceland are identical designs since RL copied the SS







They are both Twin Y Headers.
2.) I am running the Stock Euro Large port (AGU) intake matched to my ported head. Eventually I will build my own, but that is down the road when I can dyno before and after effects.
3.) Cams are stock initially, but this will go along with #2 above. Gotta get it on the road first, broken in and Base line Dyno'ed

Kyle,
WolfGti originally used the stock Euro N/A AGN 20v Ex mani and Mk3 downpipe. This is really a piss poor manifold, but good in that it is bolt on. He later had Joe build a custom 4into 1 header which came out really really nice.


----------



## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

I have been impressed with ithis build the entire way


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
WolfGti originally used the stock Euro N/A AGN 20v Ex mani and Mk3 downpipe. This is really a piss poor manifold, but good in that it is bolt on. He later had Joe build a custom 4into 1 header which came out really really nice.

I knew he used the stock euro NA one at first, but I could have sworn he hacked up a 16v header eventually to make one. Maybe I need to lay off the cold medicine


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

From Page 1: *my SuperSprint 16v header:*









From Page 2:
*Stock AGN*









Mendra's (WolfGti) header:
http://i67.photobucket.com/alb...r.jpg


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Shawn
Techtonics has 20V headers incase you did not know


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Issam Abed* »_Shawn
Techtonics has 20V headers incase you did not know









Do they not advertise them?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_
Do they not advertise them?

No Doubt! I did not know, but that provides an alternative should I get lazy or antsy at the last minute








Do you know if it is a long tube race design or has a flex section?


----------



## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
No Doubt! I did not know, but that provides an alternative should I get lazy or antsy at the last minute








Do you know if it is a long tube race design or has a flex section?
It is a long tube design similar to there 16V kit.
It is not on the website but if you ask for Josh he will accomodate you.


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*

tt has so much crap that isnt advertized or cataloged


----------



## rycou34 (Apr 24, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*

Bringing this to the top, just so I can say that if you have never met Shawn, you need to!
This man drove over an hour (one way) today to help me with my car. He is very knowledgeable and has great ideas (you can tell that by reading this thread). He is the master of overkill








Shawn never asked for or would accept a dime for helping me, for that I am extremely indebted to him. Thanks to him, I can get my car back on the road much quicker than anticipated.
Here are some more




























for you.
Thanks again.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (rycou34)*

Yeah that's why we nominated him for pimp status on here!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (rycou34)*

Thanks Rycou, but the be accurate, it was almost 2hrs with I-4 traffic








J/k, your car looks awesome as usual and it is going to be a real pleasure with the 02m (I am certain). It really was my pleasure helping you out. I also benefited a bit too by making the Jig for the VR Front 02m mounts, so it wasn't entirely a selfless visit








BTW, when you went inside, I stole your LMs








Peace


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Have you thought about the what the speed sensor will read with the smaller wheels. Have you come up with a idea to convert the sensor?
205/40/17 is 23.46"
225/45/17 is 24.97"
difference of 1.51''
The speed will be -3.64mph @60
[email protected]
for every mile it will be .06 mil lower


_Modified by VRT at 12:08 PM 3-6-2010_


----------



## rycou34 (Apr 24, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

I also benefited a bit too by making the Jig for the VR Front 02m mounts, so it wasn't entirely a selfless visit








I was trying to keep that part a secret








BTW, when you went inside, I stole your LMs








"dem's fightin' words"







LOL


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VRT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRT* »_Have you thought about the what the speed sensor will read with the smaller wheels. Have you come up with a idea to convert the sensor?
205/40/17 is 23.46"
225/45/17 is 24.97"
difference of 1.51''
The speed will be -3.64mph @60
[email protected]
for every mile it will be .06 mil lower

I have thought about it in the back of my mind, but haven't really focused on it yet due to low priority.
I was actually "considering" going with 45, but that may be utter non-sense. I am not slammed and will never be, plus I will never be stretched or running 9" rims. I would like to have the slightly taller gearing more than anything.
But for the speedo ratio, I am curious about your calcs. It should be a fixed difference reagrdless of speed. My guess would have been ~5mph off.
This might be correctable with speedo needle preload and some trial and error. Tweaking the cluster EEPROM is another











_Modified by sdezego at 11:35 AM 3-7-2010_


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

..."paging Dr. Shawn"...








What's new?


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*








he's probably making some mounts.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (DUBZAK)*








I just got in. You must be spying








I have made some progress on some odds and ends, but have been real busy with other projects. I just finished remodeling my son's room. 4 day projects turns into 2 solid weeks morning and night







...one thing after another.
Big progress will be happening here real soon.


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_







I just got in. You must be spying








I have made some progress on some odds and ends, but have been real busy with other projects. I just finished remodeling my son's room. 4 day projects turns into 2 solid weeks morning and night







...one thing after another.
Big progress will be happening here real soon.

Like actually putting the motor in a car


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*

I still have a lot of stuff to do before I will be ready to rip down my running car. My goal is that when I do get ready to swap, it will only be a VERY short down time (week or two).
*Things left:*
- Rebuild and port spare Charger
- Shorten Axles
- Powder Coat Subframe, carrier and lower Rad support
- assemble knuckles (re-pack new wheel bearings)
- press in A arm bushings and assemble KFrame
- Finish custom Wiring harnesses and disconnects to Megasquirt
- Make port matched intake mani Gasket and button up
- Clean up and paint Rack
- Fab Block Breather setup and Catch can, etc
- Build Header (probably won't do this ahead of time as I want perfect fitment)
- Rebuild front calipers from 337
- Machine parts for 02m Master Cyl onto Corrado Pedal Assy
- Build SC bypass Circuit (still undecided if this will be mechanical like the G60 or if I will attempt to use something like the APR R1)
- Build IC mounts and Prep and Paint RS Front (although I go back and forth on the RS). I have the precision Core and RS, so I will likely go this route at least initially and then may go A/W and stock front down the road
- Build IC piping
- Work out hybrid A/C lines and possibly Evap Core to clear Rear mount Alternator
- Fab up a lot of stuff (alternator Heat shield and misc stuff)
- Wrap up coolant pipes, lines, etc
- Decide if I will re-spray the bay while the lump is out








- ... I am sure there is a ton I am forgetting ...

*Things still left to Buy:*
- Front 312mm Rotors/pads
- Front Brake lines for 337 calipers
- 5 Lug wheels for Front (no budget to go crazy so I may just get 2 of the same R1's in 5 lug for now)
- 4 EGT probes
- IC piping
- Brake line for ABS delete
- ... a ton of stuff I am forgetting

Everyone has their sob stories about their lack of time, but mine has been a mile long for the past couple of years and has been plagued by hundreds of other projects taking precedence along with Family obligations. Just know that I am no slacker







Also, there is nothing about my swap that is straight forward and there is an immense amount of time in planning, engineering and fabricating details. It doesn't bother me though because I can go out to the garage and rip around in my Corrado and not have to look at it on blocks or something like that.
Also, as you can imagine, this has been a very costly ordeal. I have most of the stuff gathered, but still need to spend quite a bit out of pocket and with the economy being in the toilet, I am hesitant in doing so.
S


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

I thought I had alot to do still.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VRT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VRT* »_I thought I had alot to do still.









In my mind, it's the home stretch.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

So, after having everyone else projects wrapped up, I made some surprising progress.
I was able to assemble the Hubs, Repack the new bearings, press in the bushings in the A Arms and get the spindles together. I also picked up the KFrame, carrier and lower Rad support from the Powder Coater. However, I asked for Gloss and he wrote down and did Satin (chassis black) as most people do








 
 
*removing the seals and repacking the bearings.* The new bearings have very little grease! I have a special crapsman screwdriver than I ground down to aid and prevents nicking the seals. It still takes a steady and patient hand.

 
 
 
 
 
 

I apparently didn't have the proper thread pitch tap, so I made my own to clean up the threads







.
 
 



_Modified by sdezego at 12:27 AM 4-30-2010_


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

hard to see with your name plastered over the middle of the pics


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

I also test fitted the 337/20th 312mm Carriers and calipers on the Vr spindles. I bought the 337 Dust Shields, but they do not fit proper and I will likely just run the Vr ones.


As Mentioned above, I also got some stuff back from the Powder Coater
 

*Notice anything different here in the next 2 images?*

 

 

*A Arm bushings are the suck. No more Poly on this round. R32 Rear and stock Front.*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Roadhog_)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Roadhog_* »_hard to see with your name plastered over the middle of the pics










Click for larger pics







That is because cok suckers like to seal my images and sell their crap on FleaBay with my pictures behind it


----------



## Roadhog_ (Feb 26, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
Click for larger pics







That is because cok suckers like to seal my images and sell their crap on FleaBay with my pictures behind it









oh, didn't know they were clicky. Stealing your pics.. that's gay.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Roadhog_)*

Yea, for a while there were some "very Nice and professionally" ported 20v AEB heads for sale on EBay








Also, most of the thread pics are "clicky"


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Just thought I would remind you this thread was started in 06'
How about a little progress already


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*

..thanks for the re-affirmation Drew
You sure know how to go for the jugular


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

When I saw this back up top thought I'd see some progress...


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*

Progress will only be awarded when we here this thing idle


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VR SEX)*

Got the Calipers and carriers back from the PC (no likey red). Test fitting using Vr Rotors just to see the offset. People say I need 5mm shims behind the carriers, but I don't see it. The offset should be the same on the vr/337/20th rotors, so this shoudl be the spacing with the proper rotors. I will know for sure when the proper ones come in next week.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

how much do they weigh?
Really glad you didn't do red calipers. The silver color looks good.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_how much do they weigh?
Really glad you didn't do red calipers. The silver color looks good.

I agree, I'm not a big red caliper guy either. I tried to do mine black, but the guy doing the powdercoat did the calipers black and the carriers gold... lol


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_how much do they weigh?

Yes, it sure was a nice day today


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (leebro61)*

haha. Yea, mine are black now, which is ok, but I decided to do this Gun metal. Pretty happy with it. 
Still not happy that the subframe and carrier are satin though...
BTW: anyone need a brand new set of CAD plated Vr Power slot rotors?












_Modified by sdezego at 9:33 PM 4-30-2010_


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
Yes, it sure was a nice day today

















so more than cement shoes?
When do they go on the car?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sdezego)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sdezego* »_
*Notice anything different here in the next 2 images?*

 

 



No one?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TheBurninator* »_







so more than cement shoes?
When do they go on the car?

I have a pair in your size








They are going to go one with the whole swap. Basically, I will be replacing from the firewall forward







Pull out old lump, put in new. Minimal down time. Motor, Trans/shift box, ABS delete, Plus Suspension with all the fixings, big brakes, etc.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

placement of the rear cup?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)*

All Seam welded. Click for larger pics.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

*FV-QR*








never a need to state how impressive this level of detail is, but its impressive.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I just got done cleaning and painting the rack. I also scuffed and shot the Subframe, Carrier and Lower Rad support in urethane clear. 

I just wasn't happy with the satin finish the powdercoater did and I am pretty sure I told him gloss  

I also got some new parts in. pics soon.


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

where are the pics of the new stuffs


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

VR SEX said:


> where are the pics of the new stuffs


 Baseball tourneys this week and tonight. I was going to post them up , but got under 4 Guinness and a few Sierra Nevadas


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Good to see someone in Florida drinks decent beer. You need to knock some sense into Scuttle! 

Nice to see this forum getting back to normal.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

dogger said:


> Nice to see this forum getting back to normal.


 I just signed in and see everything working again.  

New parts you say? (((((listening)))))


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Here are a few updates: As mentioned, I was not happy with the satin finish powdercoat, so I scuffed and shot with a Urethane clear. 

As always, pics are CLICKY.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*My Home Made Thread Chaser that I used for the Carrier mounts worked great for the SF too  Kind of hard to see the channels though.* 

 


 
 


Also, got my 12.3" rotors in. Yes, they sure are heavy. 

 


But big compared to the Corrado's 


 



Calipers are a tad heavy too


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Made a Flywheel lock for the 02m to finally tq the ARP Crank bolt. 

Click to enbiggen 

 


 


 



I also made up a Cover for the crank side (since there is no vBelt pulley), as well as making the lower bell housing shield.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

...and bolted on the front mount for final as well as the other custom coolant pipes.


----------



## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

I like that pulley cover :thumbup: Even if the bolt does manage to loosen itself it can't back itself out 

I shall be making one of those for my TDIs :beer:


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

get moving:sly: 
I already started my car:laugh: 

P.S. water your grass


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

VRT said:


> get moving:sly:
> I already started my car:laugh:
> 
> P.S. water your grass


 NICE! Glad to hear it. I am getting closer every day  


P.S. We had an unseasonably record breaking strong winter  One month of the wonderful FL rainy season and it's already back to normal. :laugh: Also, I have other things to focus on


----------



## der stefan (Jul 15, 2010)

hey guys 
i wanna see some 20VG60-action, so.... :laugh:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Soon  As long as other projects stop interfering.


----------



## der stefan (Jul 15, 2010)

other unimportant things like family?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

yea 

Some progress pics. There are a lot of smaller details that have been address but unaccounted for in pics, etc.

After all of the port work on the head and manifold that I did as well as the time spent port matching, I wasn't happy with the way the stock gasket or the Spacer fit, so I ended up making my own.

Fit is absolutely perfect so my OCD can close the case on this.

Clickable...

Not happy with this fit...









Custom gasket


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

moar

Clickable...

All new hardware, subframe finished



*Finally in the "Mock Bay" Yay!!*


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

:thumbup: Thats some nice looking gasketry.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

DUBZAK said:


> :thumbup: Thats some nice looking gasketry.


Thanks! Only 3 hrs of bs... :laugh:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

That thing should haul ass being so light but where do you sit? On top of the motor?

Very nice works Shawn! :beer:


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

^^^ lol, it's like a segway, you just stand in between the wheels and lean in the direction you want to go.

Shawn, that looks AWESOME. Can't wait to see it in the real thing :thumbup:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

dogger said:


> That thing should haul ass being so light but where do you sit? On top of the motor?


hell with shaving the bay. pffft, I decided to be different and shave the car instead


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

sdezego said:


> hell with shaving the bay. pffft, I decided to be different and shave the car instead


that is some serious stuff.....thanks for the new sig btw. :laugh:


----------



## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

great stuff in here... since '06 eh?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

After getting the engine into the mock bay, the first problem has arisen and the first design revision is already in order... 

The serp tension arm shown below hits the frame rail slightly. :banghead: I measured and thought there would be enough clearance, but there is not. I could probably trim the lip off of the top of the frame rail there and dent in the side of the rail a hair, but I feel that is a hack. Also, even if I do that, there will be enough clearance, but not enough to swing the tensioner all the way up if I ever need to remove it in the future to change timing belt, etc. 

So, I am resigning the arm from scratch out of 3/16' steel as opposed to the stock AL arm with is about 1/2" thick. This will give me plenty of clearance and capability of removing when the engine is in the car. So, I already have it well under way, but need to take some pieces up to the lathe so I can press fit some bronze bushings, etc. 

Everything is else is looking pretty good though. 




sdezego said:


>


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Spent some time on the Bridgeport and lathe the other night and finished up the machine work on the new arm. Made two bronze bushings for it and honed them to size. Just want to add a grease fitting to it and paint. 

It worked out great, but I still need to address the minor clearance issue with the Shock and the frame rail. Should be much easier than making a whole new arm assy. Have a few options in mind.

I'll get some pics up soon.

It also goes w/o mentioning, but I would much rather run into this now in the mock bay, then down the road when I go to put the motor in.

S


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

sdezego said:


> It also goes w/o mentioning, but I would much rather run into this now in the mock bay, then down the road when I go to put the motor in.


 Completely agree. You've done a good job setting this up so you can make progress on the project while you still daily drive the car. The rest of us run into headaches and the car ends up parked/dismantled :banghead:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

I'm not sure where the rain tray cover will go since you don't really have a rain tray....


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

dogger said:


> I'm not sure where the rain tray cover will go since you don't really have a rain tray....


 Forward that to me, I'll use it until he needs it. :what:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

leebro61 said:


> Forward that to me, I'll use it until he needs it. :what:


 You should have had James just send one with mine and you could have picked it up with the rest of your stuff


----------



## der stefan (Jul 15, 2010)

Hurry up, or i will overtake you... and i`m at ~5%


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

just did a little light reading,,, impressive! :beer:

opcorn:


----------



## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

Youre my hero.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

vaporado said:


> Youre my hero.


 :laugh: 


*UPDATE:* 

Got some other progress done. Lots of little misc things that aren't that exciting for pics. I also rebuilt the Master for the non-ABS swap and assembled. I also started looking at what needs to be done to use the 02m Master for the clutch. I will post pics when I do the mods to that, because they are a plenty. Some just adapt the 02m line to the 02a master which should be fine (there is a bubble flare section in the 02m line, but most connections and push together with C-clips). 

Non-Motor related. I also decided to fix a small dent that was in my on the side if my hatch since I bought the car. What started out as a touch up, snowballed into fully fixing the dent and spotting in a base/clear, in addition to respraying the d/s Fender to fix a few flaws and a couple of spots in the D/S door :laugh: 

Also, I picked up a full front clip so that I can mock up the A/C lines and Header before the old lump comes out of my car. The clearance issues with the belt tensioner pushed me to want to do a full bay mock up so there would be no issues. So, I drove a couple of hours today to do some surgery on an unwieldy patient. 

This time, I kept the whole front clip, rain tray and all the way back past the shift box mounts in the tunnel. 

Click for biggers.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

You need the base of the windshield so you can install the rain tray! :laugh:


----------



## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

usp has a clutch cable for a 02m and mk2/3 master


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

VRT said:


> usp has a clutch cable for a 02m and mk2/3 master


 Good to know, I can point people in that direction when they ask :thumbup:


----------



## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

with using the aba throttle body what are you planning for boost bypass when the throttle closes to prevent surge on the charger, just a recerc valve back into this intake track?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

toplessvw said:


> with using the aba throttle body what are you planning for boost bypass when the throttle closes to prevent surge on the charger, just a recerc valve back into this intake track?


I am really on the fence right now, as I was not going to worry about it until I got closer to the intake piping. 2 options are a DV or weld the mech G60 bypass onto the intake pipe just before the TB and run a simple linkage. I already cut one off and headed down that road, but if I could get away with a DV, that would make things much simpler. I am just not sure about Drive ability as I have no experience with trying to use a DV with the G60. If I were to go that route, my preference would be a diaphragm type (as opposed to piston) and nothing smaller than an APR R1. And that might even be too small  I do have a stock 1.8t, so I guess I could try it on my current G60 just so get a feel for the response, etc. It is what BBM used on their 2screw.

Shawn


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

sdezego said:


> :laugh:
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> Non-Motor related. I also decided to fix a small dent that was in my on the side if my hatch since I bought the car. What started out as a touch up, snowballed into fully fixing the dent and spotting in a base/clear, in addition to respraying the d/s Fender to fix a few flaws and a couple of spots in the D/S door and hatch :laugh:


Here are the pics. Again, this was intended as a stop gap and snowballed. I actually have a set of Vr fenders that may end up on the car in the end. This is what happens when the wife and kids go away for the weekend... :laugh:


Click for biggers:

*Base Coat and Color sanded*



*Clear Coat wet sanded*




*Initial Polish*




*More Polishing*




*More...*




*Done*


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sdezego said:


> This is what happens when the wife and kids go away for the weekend... :laugh:


Send them away for a while longer, your car will be finished :laugh:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Exactly!


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

looking awesome!


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> Send them away for a while longer, your car will be finished :laugh:



What if he than found the things that distract you?


Car looks good btw Shawn. :thumbup:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dogger said:


> What if he than found the things that distract you?
> 
> 
> Car looks good btw Shawn. :thumbup:


Send me money and I will just bring the hookers to my shop. I will do work then :sly:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Do werk yes, but on your car, no. Well maybe you will do the hooker on top of your car. But that doesn't count for doing werk on the car... :beer:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

dogger said:


> Do werk yes, but on your car, no. Well maybe you will do the hooker on top of your car. But that doesn't count for doing werk on the car... :beer:


:laugh:

Lookin good Shawn :beer:


----------



## blackblaze427 (Jul 11, 2010)

not often i post, but when i see something like this it just deserves some props. great job man :beer::beer::beer:


----------



## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

sdezego said:


> I am really on the fence right now, as I was not going to worry about it until I got closer to the intake piping. 2 options are a DV or weld the mech G60 bypass onto the intake pipe just before the TB and run a simple linkage. I already cut one off and headed down that road, but if I could get away with a DV, that would make things much simpler. I am just not sure about Drive ability as I have no experience with trying to use a DV with the G60. If I were to go that route, my preference would be a diaphragm type (as opposed to piston) and nothing smaller than an APR R1. And that might even be too small  I do have a stock 1.8t, so I guess I could try it on my current G60 just so get a feel for the response, etc. It is what BBM used on their 2screw.
> 
> Shawn


In theory you would want the valve to be able to recerc the cfm of the charger at idle correct?
I am leaning towards the procharger valve as it can flow pretty well,for best results you would have to figure charger flow at idle and go from there
http://www.superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?partnumber=PC-AV005A-001&tabactive=2


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

That is a nice looking piece. What size inlet/outlet? Rather than try to do calcs, etc you can just base off of the factory G60 bypass size. I would have to check the diameter as I forget off hand.


----------



## toplessvw (Jul 31, 2003)

I would think that the factory valve would be propperly sized and engineered for a stock , unpullied ,unported supercharger, but I would suspect that it would not flow enough fo a modified charger causing charger surge and thus shortining the life of the charger. I often thought this was a overlooked side effect of a charger up grade but it is hard to say what the capability of the fatory valve and at what point it becomes uneffective.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

My opinion is that the Factory valve was oversized in an effort to reduce idle and part throttle noise.


----------



## 1988gti (Nov 16, 2005)

This is an awesome project Shawn, your work and project are both inspirational. :thumbup:

Keep up the amazing work


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks. Not much progress since the paint work as other money making projects as opposed to money spending projects (i.e. this one) have taken precedence.


----------



## ur faster (Jul 21, 2005)

amazing! :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

Shawn

Incredible build, wow

so much attention to detail :thumbup:

but its the attention to detail that separates the good from the best


:beer:


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

sdezego said:


> For those Familiar with the 20v head you will see that I removed all of the oil galley ball plugs to clean all of the channels. I Also tapped for the Head Pressure switch and tapped the holes for pipe plugs (not fully inserted in this pic).
> *Click for larger pics*
> 
> 
> ...




what is the black thing on the second cam?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Those are cam splash guards to prevent oil from splashing up into the cap area. They came with one under the cap, but I fitted a second for the breather side since I remembered how well these worked on the 8v when they came out years ago.


----------



## der stefan (Jul 15, 2010)

Hey Guys... i`m on the way to build such an engine, but i`m going to use the motronic 7.5 of an 2005 1,8T with electronic throttle etc.

now my question, if someone had done this before, which valve should i take for lowering pressure if the engine starts to knock? the n75 oder n249? one of them i will strip out off the electrics to reduce it`s size...


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

sdezego said:


> hell with shaving the bay. pffft, I decided to be different and shave the car instead


 hahahahaaha!!! 


looking amazing shawn! 
:thumbup:


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

sdezego said:


> I am really on the fence right now, as I was not going to worry about it until I got closer to the intake piping. 2 options are a DV or weld the mech G60 bypass onto the intake pipe just before the TB and run a simple linkage. I already cut one off and headed down that road, but if I could get away with a DV, that would make things much simpler. I am just not sure about Drive ability as I have no experience with trying to use a DV with the G60. If I were to go that route, my preference would be a diaphragm type (as opposed to piston) and nothing smaller than an APR R1. And that might even be too small  I do have a stock 1.8t, so I guess I could try it on my current G60 just so get a feel for the response, etc. It is what BBM used on their 2screw.
> 
> Shawn


 this is going to be a silly question but are there any advantages of using a DV, would it damage the charger if you had a BOV? what size BOV would you use for a stock G60 if so? 


thanks for the help!


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

sdezego said:


> My opinion is that the Factory valve was oversized in an effort to reduce idle and part throttle noise.


 does anyone have a pic of the factory valve?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Been working on some small items lately like rebuilding my spare charger.

Also, I had a request to shorten someone's axles, so I thought it a good time to do mine at the same time.

I usually cut -> V-Groove the axles halves ->machine a sleeve to press inside and splice the axles -> true if necessary -> weld

I have them cut and I picked up some metal stock today. I am taking the day off tomorrow, so will head to the shop to machine the sleeves down on the lathe for a press fit. Will then take them back home to weld up. Hopefully, I will get them completed tomorrow along with some other odds and ends.

*...taking some measurements*







*...Stripped down*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Axles are all done!! Shortened and trued :thumbup:

Pics should be forthcoming...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

you and ur fancy tools ......:laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Axles are all done!! Shortened and trued :thumbup:
> 
> Pics should be forthcoming...


If I send you a set of axle shafts and measurements could you do a set for me? The mk1 likes to bind inner CV's and sheer them.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Refacing the cut from the chop saw and beveling*




*Cutting the sleeve for .0015" pres fit*





*Pressing sleeve in Axle half*




*Blind holes to weld sleeve to Axle*





*Welded Blind holes *





*going together*





For some reason, I stopped taking pics. Will take some of the finished product this weekend.

S


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> If I send you a set of axle shafts and measurements could you do a set for me? The mk1 likes to bind inner CV's and sheer them.


IM sent. Been a long time and I forget if the Mk1 are solid or hollow (seemed to recall one of each..)

I can say that these took way more time than I was anticipating. I have shortened various axles in the past, but these were very time consuming. Needless to say, I am not advertising the service


----------



## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

I love this build.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks man. I know it's slow going, but I assure you the end is near


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

🧛


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

sdezego said:


> Thanks man. I know it's slow going, but I assure you the end is near



2012 is what you are referring to? :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Happy Belated Birthday, now get ur old ass to werk


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

haha, thanks. I might just do that since I am off for the next 2 weeks 

Been doing little things.


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Its Shawn's Bday? When?

Happy Birthday! :beer:


----------



## MikkiJayne (Jan 1, 2007)

dogger said:


> Its Shawn's Bday? When?
> 
> Happy Birthday! :beer:


:thumbup::beer:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

16th  Anniv too :laugh:

I started assembling more of the Mock bay to get an idea of IC placement, A/C lines, bumper, etc. I may use the Mk4 A/C condenser as it fits with a few tweaks (with the help of a couple of side brkts to the Rad). This makes sense for a few reason, but one being they are on $80 new any anything to get away from Corrado specific stuff is all :beer: money after that... But, it also relocates the drier, press switch, etc and I can use some of the Mk4 lines. The one from the comp to the condenser directly. I have a disturbingly large collection of A/C lines and parts from different VWs :laugh:

I was also really giving thought to a different front mount from what I had planned. I may have mentioned, but I have the Dietrich RS front and a nice new Precision Core that was set to go in it. I really want to keep the stock bumper though now (especially with Dogger's 70mm front lip that is coming), so I may get creative. In close comparison, I realized how much more space there is with the Vr upper Rad support using the G60 Rad even before cutting the front vertical strut. There is also more vertical space because the Vr support bumps way up on the Pass side where the rad ends where the G60 slopes down. I never realized this before. So, I really see no reason why one could not stack the *"right"* IC core like the Mk4/5, etc does. I am going to start to investigate some factory cores to check size and outlets. Since this is in front of the Rad, there is surprising space there as mentioned. I'll take some pics and measurements of what I am talking about.


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

Happy late B-day and Anniversary Shawn! I can't wait to see what you come up with for the intercooler... we've all seen it done the wrong way before (and I've done it the wrong way myself too), but I'm sure you'll come up with a clean solution


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

16th Anniversary of your Corrado build? 


:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

dogger said:


> 16th Anniversary of your Corrado build?
> 
> 
> :laugh::laugh::laugh:


16th was my B Day. 15 Anniv dik 

Seriously though, if I had the money, this would done by Jan 1. Instead, I am just enjoying driving the C every day and making over engineered decisions on the new setup :laugh:


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

over engineered? explain.


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

good to see you are making progress:thumbup: Im going to start wrenching in a few months, im taking some time off of the project


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

vaporado said:


> good to see you are making progress:thumbup: Im going to start wrenching in a few months, im taking some time off of the project


Nice! a little time off can be healthy :beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I started getting the power steering lines in. Some slight tweaking on the rear was necessary to clear the custom rear mount which was known. I also fabbed up a small support bracket to mount the lines to the rear S/F cup flange (same location as stock), but not shown.

Looks like I decided to go with the MkIV A/C condenser for the reasons mentioned above. I still have one small brkt to make (line support), but it's easy. Here are some of the mockup pics.

MkIV Compressor and discharge line




MkIV condenser mounted to the G60 Rad. Notice how the left side has the Drier mount, which fits around the rad nicely and clear the G60 and compressor w/o issue. The high side line comes off the bottom of the drier and I will show when I get one on.






Bracket I needed to Fab. Also needed to redrill the left side tabs (no biggie) and need to make the line bracket still.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Sooooo, that's what you were really busy doing yesterday .......:laugh:

J/K man, looking good :thumbup: Gonna give you a shout in a bit to talk CC'ing the chambers


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

ha, no those pics were from a few days ago


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I forgot to show one of my Christmas presents to myself... For those who don;t know, I like to read the Bentley wiring diagrams before I go to bed :laugh:

I had the "star" tools below, but added the full kit and  are they nice...


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

best build ever :thumbup:


I'm kinda late on this (25 days or so) but Happy Birthday Shawn


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks man. Some progress pics coming soon. Been jumping around a bit, but making progress. I also ordered a bunch of stuff that I was waiting on.

New Harnesses for cabin side of MS3 + MS3x as well as the MS3 processor upgrade and lots of other little stuff.

I will be upgrading MS on my PG/G60 in the next couple of days from MS1 to MS3. I could stay MS1 (even on the new setup), but MS3 is unbelievable and the MS3 (Expansion board) makes most of the items that I was planning in building custom circuits for plug and play.

Fully sequential Fuel and Spark using the 20v COPs, + TONs of other useful inputs and features.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Thanks man. Some progress pics coming soon. Been jumping around a bit, but making progress. I also ordered a bunch of stuff that I was waiting on.
> 
> New Harnesses for cabin side of MS3 + MS3x as well as the MS3 processor upgrade and lots of other little stuff.
> 
> ...


MS3 FTW 

can't wait to see what you do with it and I hope to learn a few things


----------



## hellrbbt (Sep 17, 2006)

I'm running MS1 on my car now. My next motor (piecing together a 20/20 as well ) will be on MS3/3X as well.

:beer: for everything so far, looking great!


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

Want to trade me that old MS1 for my TT exhaust? :laugh:

Looks good Shawn, I need to get back down that way so we can catch up again. :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

leebro61 said:


> Want to trade me that old MS1 for my TT exhaust? :laugh:
> 
> Looks good Shawn, I need to get back down that way so we can catch up again. :thumbup:


 I decided to just do a processor swap/upgrade since the Base board and hardware are the same. We will work something out though  I did order an new (extra) main harness so that I can get it all prepped for the swap.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I deiced to change my Fuel Tank to the later intank single fuel pump setup. The 2 pump setup is really a piss poor design. If I ever decide to go back to a 2 pump setup with a large external pump (i.e. a CIS or 044) I can and will have an easy way to mount the transfer pump in the tank using the bayonet ring/housing. The Mk2 style tank mount setup with it's telescoping mount, and $40 rubber connector is :screwy: My Sender acting goofy again after fixing it once, was the final straw. Plus the stock external pump and housing is another great design :sly:


So, I decided to rebuild one of the few single pump setups that have met their fate with bad gas over the years. Full Thread is here -> Stock Fuel Pump Rebuild? :P

The Top and lower diaphragm seals from the inner pump to the housing are the only thing that usually goes bad in these pumps. Granted the $89 TRE replacement makes it hardly worth the effort of even screwing with it...

A couple of pics from my post above.








*Bottom side with Pinch Ring installed.*





*Pump Ready to go into housing.* Note: is the isolating seals are shot, then you are in more more research to try and find something suitable to replace them. I have seen these completely melted away before.






*Going in and ready to install lower ping seal Ring and 1st stage intake and screen.*









*Top Pinch Ring and seal installed. DONE!*


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

sdezego said:


> ...
> I will be upgrading MS on my PG/G60 in the next couple of days from MS1 to MS3. I could stay MS1 (even on the new setup), but MS3 is unbelievable and the MS3 (Expansion board) makes most of the items that I was planning in building custom circuits for plug and play.
> 
> Fully sequential Fuel and Spark using the 20v COPs, + TONs of other useful inputs and features.


 
So, I have been busy learning the ropes of MS3 and *the G60/PG is running again*.  I ended up changing a few inputs/outputs around which will help in the motor swap. I added a VSS in as well so now the logs will show gearing, Speed and you can set up things to calc Tq and Hp, etc (thanks Jeff for the tip!). Already MS3 is better than I imagined. 


 
 


*MS1 Processor out* 


 



*A Few jumpers changed for inputs/outputs* 


 



*MS3 in and testing on the benchtop Stimulator* (no ms3x expansion board in yet, but that will come with the new motor and not necessary now) 


 



I have also been making some small progress on other fronts, but mostly spending money and acquiring parts


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> So, I have been busy learning the ropes of MS3 and *the G60/PG is running again*.  I ended up changing a few inputs/outputs around which will help in the motor swap. I added a VSS in as well so now the logs will show gearing, Speed and you can set up things to calc Tq and Hp, etc (thanks Jeff for the tip!). Already MS3 is better than I imagined.
> 
> I have also been making some small progress on other fronts, but mostly spending money and acquiring parts


 Nice, now lemme get a base map ........:laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nice, now lemme get a base map ........:laugh:


 haha, still have to tune it, but no biggie. Used my base maps from MS1, imported and interpolated to 16x16 maps. Should be a good start. Fires right up and idles great


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

This has to be one of the longest build on the vortex:thumbup:


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

it probably started before vortex existed......


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

hubbell said:


> it probably started before vortex existed......


 In my mind it did :laugh: 

I can't say I am proud at how long it has been, but sh!t takes time :laugh: 

I swear it is getting close*r*


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> haha, still have to tune it, but no biggie. Used my base maps from MS1, imported and interpolated to 16x16 maps. Should be a good start. Fires right up and idles great


 :thumbup: Didn't know you could load your MS1 maps, thought you would have had to start from scratch, but I'm not too familiar with it, _yet_  Can't wait tho, mad :heart: for MS  



hubbell said:


> it probably started before vortex existed......


 :laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :thumbup: Didn't know you could load your MS1 maps, thought you would have had to start from scratch, but I'm not too familiar with it, _yet_  Can't wait tho, mad :heart: for MS
> 
> 
> :laugh:


 
You can export the .vex maps from MS1 and import into MS2/3, but since MS1 maps are not 16x16, you need to do quite a bit or work. ...in a good way. More resolution is always a better thing. 

Funny story though, my daughter came out in the garage the other night and was watching me work. Apparently, she is going to be a typical woman becuase her exact word were (and I sh!t you not), "...and dad, when you are going to finally put this new motor in? I'm tired of looking at it..." wtf :screwy:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Funny story though, my daughter came out in the garage the other night and was watching me work. Apparently, she is going to be a typical woman becuase her exact word were (and I sh!t you not), "...and dad, when you are going to finally put this new motor in? I'm tired of looking at it..." wtf :screwy:


 ZING :laugh:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sdezego said:


> You can export the .vex maps from MS1 and import into MS2/3, but since MS1 maps are not 16x16, you need to do quite a bit or work. ...in a good way. More resolution is always a better thing.


 I was reading a bit to the contrary of that. What I read was that anything more than 16x16 is useless and the ECU interpolates the numbers very well between values in the tables. 



sdezego said:


> Funny story though, my daughter came out in the garage the other night and was watching me work. Apparently, she is going to be a typical woman becuase her exact word were (and I sh!t you not), "...and dad, when you are going to finally put this new motor in? I'm tired of looking at it..." wtf :screwy:


 She probably saw what was happening on vortex with this build :wave:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

sdezego said:


> ...Funny story though, my daughter came out in the garage the other night and was watching me work. Apparently, she is going to be a typical woman becuase her exact word were (and I sh!t you not), "...and dad, when you are going to finally put this new motor in? I'm tired of looking at it..." wtf :screwy:


 LMAO :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Funny story though, my daughter came out in the garage the other night and was watching me work. Apparently, she is going to be a typical woman becuase her exact word were (and I sh!t you not), "...and dad, when you are going to finally put this new motor in? I'm tired of looking at it..." wtf :screwy:


 And how old is she? :laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

LA7VJetta said:


> And how old is she? :laugh:


 8 going on 15...


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Since I had to rewire a few things for Meqasquirt3 and I had the glove box out, I deiced to swap the HVAC controls yet again. This time to the MkiV. I have been wanting to do this for a long time and had actually modified the controls with LEds about a year ago  ..nothing in comparison to what Dirk does. 

Full thread from original interior swap and the latest additions in here (note: 2 tone leather went to all factory black a while back) -> Interior Swap and Renew Complete + extras (VERY VERY Pic... 


Click for bigger pics:


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## LA7VJetta (Jul 21, 2009)

sdezego said:


> 8 going on 15...


  Yeah, you are gonna have your hands full in a few years.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

looking good :thumbup: you still planning on leaving the MS box in the glove compartment?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I also got MS3 fully tuned this weekend, but only took about 45 minutes.  

I also had to change a couple of jumper wires from the pic posted above. I had to chance the VSS signal in to go direct to a spare input pin on MS. I had it going through a conditioning circuit and was not getting the speed signal. 

All is well not tough and I now have speed in the logs as well as gear indication  

MS3 is really amazing. I though it was going to be hard to beat MS1 with the HiighRes Extra code...


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> looking good :thumbup: you still planning on leaving the MS box in the glove compartment?


 For now... I had to put the LM1 control box beneath the glove box since MS3 is much taller than MS1. I amthinking that I will try to put it where the ABS ECu is when I swap to the new motor since I will be going to non-ABS. Just not sure there is enough room there. I really don;t mind it in the glove box though. We shall see.


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## SlowVRT (Jan 3, 2009)

Come help me wire mine up... :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

If the glove box was easier to remove than it is, I might consider mounted under it as there is tons or room. .. but the damn German enginqueers found a way to make a simple glove box almost impossible to remove w/o getting frustrated and breaking something :screwy:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

SlowVRT said:


> Come help me wire mine up... :thumbup:


  Jeff (the Prof) is an MS3 master compared to me. You should implore his help, plus he is an hour closer to you  

Seriously though, if you need help, just LMK. I am up in Flagler Beach all the time. Jax is not that far from there and I am easily persuaded with good Barley pops.


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## SlowVRT (Jan 3, 2009)

I got MS2 lol... and I'm sending you an PM :heart:


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> For now... I had to put the LM1 control box beneath the glove box since MS3 is much taller than MS1. I amthinking that I will try to put it where the ABS ECu is when I swap to the new motor since I will be going to non-ABS. Just not sure there is enough room there. I really don;t mind it in the glove box though. We shall see.


 That's why you should ditch the LM1 and go with LC1 and lemme know how you plan to put that controller inside the cabin :laugh: 



sdezego said:


> If the glove box was easier to remove than it is, I might consider mounted under it as there is tons or room. .. but the damn German enginqueers found a way to make a simple glove box almost impossible to remove w/o getting frustrated and breaking something :screwy:


 Engiqueers :laugh: I think it's easy to remove the glovebox .......:laugh:


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## vaporado (Aug 14, 2005)

love the progress! keep it coming. I need some motivation


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

SlowVRT said:


> I got MS2 lol... and I'm sending you an PM :heart:


 He was Speed dial #1 If I came up and couldn't figure it out. :thumbup::beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Did a little bit more work tonight and finished up the MkiV Condenser install. (don't mind that PS pipe as that will likely be going). 

Next up should be IC fitment. I am really on the fence about this...


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

im going to doing the same thing to my 88 jetta coupe.
maybe not this extensive.
but i will be doing the 1.8T with the 6 speed. but i'll be useing the ECU, wire harness and MK4 dash. maybe interior with the leather heated seats. still debating.
still undecided if im going to do the 2.0 kit and/or the AEB head.
if i get a motor with high miles on it and needs to be rebuilt i will.

anywho. i'll be hitting you up for tips and tricks on this swap.

keep up the good work. :thumbup: 
this is gonne be epic! :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks! Using the MkiV harness and ECU is not a bad way to go (especially if a stock tune is fine). I am just strongly against the "chip Tuners" and the price they charge... AEB head is great, but plenty of power to be had from small port head. I would get what is readily available at a good price.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Well, after putting the front end together on the mock setup, taking detailed measurements and trying to fit my Precision Core under the stock bumper, I have come to the definite conclusion (I think), that my only solution for a good IC is:

1.) AWIC
2.) Build a custom FMIC

Guess which one I am going to undertake :laugh:

My constraints (which did change from the start where I planned on running my Dietrich RS) are now to use the stock bumper, get proper air flow for IC, Condenser, oil cooler and Rad, and look as close to stock as possible. That means to even run the Lower bumper grill as well. I in no way want to hack up a stock bumper and try to stuff a core in there that is wedged to the rebar and blocks all proper air flow.

I did some research on some cores with my measurements and I have a few options. I just need to decide, bite the bullet and build. Bell cores are hella expensive, so I may need to try and set up a reseller account through my brothers shop. Or find a comparable efficient core.

Stay Tuned..

Shawn


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

what would you say was the closest absolute part to the condenser? Enough room for a full IC? Like some Saabs run? Was a model year Passat that ran that setup as well...

And again, Thanks for all the help :beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> what would you say was the closest absolute part to the condenser? Enough room for a full IC? Like some Saabs run? Was a model year Passat that ran that setup as well...:


The closest part of the Rad support. I have some better pics I will post up. The Vr support is narrower (allowing more room) between the Condenser and the support itself, but either one would need to be modified. I will mod and reinforce.

Yea, a factory front mount would be ideal and most are pretty inexpensive brand new, but the problems with the ones that I have searched (2.0t, Saabs, Volvos, etc) is that they are either too tall, or the outlets are positioned to face rear and come in either over the top or sides of the rad and point back. This might work with a narrow radiator (i.e. like the Rallye golf FMIC), but as you know, with FL heat in the summer, a black car and A/C to boot, you need as big of a rad as you can get. So, I am not downsizing that.

What I foresee, is a FM similar in size to the ones you mentioned (large surface area), but the Inlet and Outlet will come off in the same plan as the IC but head out toward the right and left tow hooks. Then pipe around and up as usual.

I have the design already finalized in my mind and it will definitely work nicely. I just need to find and buy the right core to get started.

A 2.5" core looks like it would be perfect, but I could squeeze a 3" core in there if need be. Bell doesn't have a 2.5", but they have a 2.25 and a 3". The Difference in flow is very small (only 25cfm).



Sr. Karmann said:


> And again, Thanks for all the help :beer:


No problem. We will get it built


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> The closest part of the Rad support. I have some better pics I will post up. The Vr support is narrower (allowing more room) between the Condenser and the support itself, but either one would need to be modified. I will mod and reinforce.
> 
> Yea, a factory front mount would be ideal and most are pretty inexpensive brand new, but the problems with the ones that I have searched (2.0t, Saabs, Volvos, etc) is that they are either too tall, or the outlets are positioned to face rear and come in either over the top or sides of the rad and point back. This might work with a narrow radiator (i.e. like the Rallye golf FMIC), but as you know, with FL heat in the summer, a black car and A/C to boot, you need as big of a rad as you can get. So, I am not downsizing that.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see this, might as well just build 2 :laugh:




> No problem. We will get it built


:thumbup: Just printed the a2 resource guide


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

There are some "custom" order Garrett cores that are 2.3" wide. That's what I'm planning on running. They are hard to get, but if there is a will there is a way. I need to send you my excel spreadsheet and you can do some performance crunching :laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

leebro61 said:


> There are some "custom" order Garrett cores that are 2.3" wide. That's what I'm planning on running. They are hard to get, but if there is a will there is a way. I need to send you my excel spreadsheet and you can do some performance crunching :laugh:


Sounds like we are on the same page yet again :laugh:

Yea, I had found those earlier. However, there does not appear to be the size that I am looking for (not saying that one would not suffice). Bell, however, has every size under the sun, but at a lofty price. The one I was initially looking at from Bell is $437 retail 

I am going to map out the space constraints today as it is a give and take as you know. You can go tall, but not too wide. Go a bit shorter and then wider, etc..


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Took a break on the intercooler briefly since it requires spending a lot of money :laugh: I pretty much have it all mapped out though and it will be slick.


I really hate rebuilding axles and packing CV joints, so glad they are done and on! Redline CV2


















*About 1/2" clearance between the CV joint and the trans cup now.*







*...kind of blurry, but oh well.*


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Took a break on the intercooler briefly since it requires spending a lot of money :laugh: I pretty much have it all mapped out though and it will be slick.


I'll build you one for twenty bukks :laugh:



sdezego said:


> I really hate rebuilding axles and packing CV joints, so glad they are done and on! Redline CV2


That job is the absolute pitts :banghead: Redline huh, nice 



sdezego said:


> *...kind of blurry, but oh well.*


Time foir a better camera


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## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

I'm not even sure what I'm looking at


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

inside the Drivers side fender well looking at the CV clearance between the trans cup.

@ Chad

It's not the camera, there was no light and too tight for a flash. I was in Macro mode sans flash and was not able to keep it perfect with the super slow shutter. It my Nikon, peckerhead 

Not very exciting of a picture regardless..


----------



## V-TEC this!!! (May 4, 2003)

I actually cannot wait until this thing is done. :beer:

Soo much work and time. 

Tripod.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> @ Chad
> 
> It's not the camera, there was no light and too tight for a flash. I was in Macro mode sans flash and was not able to keep it perfect with the super slow shutter. It my Nikon, peckerhead
> 
> Not very exciting of a picture regardless..


:laugh: 

I was trying to get some shots off on my fuel rail the other day and same thing, damn Nikon :facepalm:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Sr. Karmann said:


> :laugh:
> 
> I was trying to get some shots off on my fuel rail the other day and same thing, damn Nikon :facepalm:


LOL point shoot failz


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

TheBurninator said:


> LOL point shoot failz


yep :laugh:


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## m1keh (Apr 5, 2011)

Epic build here, can't wait to see it finished. You are the reason I made a vortex account for myself.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

m1keh said:


> Epic build here, *can't wait to see it finished*. You are the reason I made a vortex account for myself.


Be prepared to wait awhile. Shawn is expecting to have this car finished around the time he retires so he can drive it to the senior center. :laugh:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

dogger said:


> Be prepared to wait awhile. Shawn is expecting to have this car finished around the time he retires so he can drive it to the senior center. :laugh:


"Project 2020" maybe is a sign .........


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

2020 is just to finish the engine and get it in the car. After that its time to move onto to other parts of the car.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)




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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

m1keh said:


> Epic build here, can't wait to see it finished. You are the reason I made a vortex account for myself.


Thanks! Things have been progressing, but haven't posted much progress as things that have been completed are all over the place and nothing significant lately other than wrapping up Megasquirt3 and getting a final tune on my current setup.

*I'll give a small update though:*
I made the decision to ditch the really nice precision IC Core that I bought a long while ago when the intentions were to run the Dietrich RS front (tells you how long this project has been culminating). I purchased the new IC core (not yet disclosed) and started mocking it up. Some Corrado owners may find this interesting, but I will leave it a that for now. I can only say that it is a very large area core that will look factory and still allow A/C an a full Rebar. Upper Rad support trimming is still TBD.

I have also been porting and rebuilding one of my spare chargers among other things.

I am at the point where I really want this done and in, but my time has been limited to work on this as usual. Money making jobs have to come first and these are outside of by daily job and Family life.

Not to worry, progress pics soon 


...and James ^









I have been also working on refinishing my spare bumper so I can get it on to show off your 70mm lip  Got a new lower grill, new steel lower support trim , etc.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

:thumbup:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dogger said:


> 2020 is just to finish the engine and get it in the car. After that its time to move onto to other parts of the car.


I may still beat Shawn to having a project finished :laugh::laugh:


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

TheBurninator said:


> I may still beat Shawn to having a project finished :laugh::laugh:


I'm betting a case of Blue Star that won't happen. opcorn:


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

dogger said:


> I'm betting a case of Blue Star that won't happen. opcorn:


those are high stakes... :laugh::laugh:


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

Got a pretty awesome text last night... but I won't spoil the fun


----------



## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

I'm still waiting and watching


----------



## crzygreek (Jul 8, 2005)

leebro61 said:


> Got a pretty awesome text last night... but I won't spoil the fun


You and Shawn are such teases!! :laugh:


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## Darrsh (Jan 15, 2002)

Update already !!!


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

As usual, I have 20 things going on at once, but I did work on the IC setup quite a bit the other night as Lee mentioned. I don't want to post any pics yet though, but will soon.

The reason is that I need to complete refinishing my spare bumper, and shoot my spare upper Rad support so that I can swap them on my car now and take the Vr Rad Support that is currently on my car. ..plus add my SFT 70mm lip on  I need this to complete the IC mockup.

Unfortunately, the IC is much tighter than I expected. So MUCH so, that the small diffs in the VR upper Support are required for use and there is also a lot of creativity needed to get this thing to work. Not to mention a lot of cutting here and there (but no mods to the rebar ). I am now confident that it will work, but realistically to try and repeat this solution for others, is not be the best route. 

The avenue I almost went down with a Custom Garrett or Bell core and fab up end tanks would have been a better route and could have been made to work with only trimming the down strut on the upper Rad support when using the VR support with the G60 Rad/condenser setup.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

AWIC FTW :laugh:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> AWIC FTW :laugh:


Pretty much, LOL


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

*Happy Anniversary!!!*

9-3-06 to 4-10-11 ... Shawn I can throw away my Yellow Corrado manual now and upload this thread to an iPad.

Thanks so much for sharing all the knowledge. It's incredible how you've retained you're level of perfection and even more awesome that you've taken the time to document this for all us VW heads.

Here's to the ultimate vw RV


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Crappy weather, so no work on painting the front bumper and rad support to swap so no pics on the IC mockup, but here is one one of the G60 on the Bridgeport opening up both intakes.



@Michael, glad you find the info useful.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Crappy weather, so no work on painting the front bumper and rad support to swap so no pics on the IC mockup, but here is one one of the G60 on the Bridgeport opening up both intakes.


Excuses 

You gonna werk those fins?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

maybe... However, the fin count will not decrease 

Also doing some of the other porting mods, like my current charger has.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> maybe... However, the fin count will not decrease


*good man* :beer:


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## Pete O. Arguelles (Jul 5, 2000)

Been following along on your build. I to am doing an front mount intercooler on my G60. It's a rather large intercooler I don't have pics of it at the moment. I also plan to use a dietrich type front bumper mine is actually the Rieger made out of ABS and plan on cutting out the plate recess for max air flow. My intercooler will require to trim the rebar don't know exactly how much I can say the intercooler I'm using is a spearco with in out on the drivers side. Sounds like you will be using a rallye type intercooler. I plan on keeping my A/C. 
Can have pics if anyone is interested. 
Thanks Pete
BTW here is a couple of pics of my G60 with doggers new wing.


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Pete O. Arguelles said:


> ...BTW here is a couple of pics of my G60 with doggers new wing.


^^  Very nice :thumbup:


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## _Val (Jan 5, 2007)

This thread definitely screams for update


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

_Val said:


> This thread definitely screams for update


opcorn::thumbup:

I think this is my favorite Corrado build because you are doing it they way I wanted to do my 20V G60. When finished do you think it will find its way to H20? I'd love a ride.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

G60ING said:


> opcorn::thumbup:
> 
> I think this is my favorite Corrado build because you are doing it they way I wanted to do my 20V G60. When finished do you think it will find its way to H20? I'd love a ride.


Thanks. I am not cutting anything out that I wanted to do, just to rush and get it done. I really wish I had more time in the last few years, but between working more and making less (much like everyone else) and Family life, there is very little time at the end of the day. I thought as the kids got older I would have MORE time, boy was I wrong LOL. I wouldn't have it any other way.

As for H20, with out a doubt! Around the time of last H20, I really thought that I would have it wrapped up and be there this year with it. Alas, I guess there is always next year


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

I fully understand all aspects of that.


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

sdezego said:


> As for H20, with out a doubt! Around the time of last H20, I really thought that I would have it wrapped up and be there this year with it. Alas, I guess there is always next year


When you're ready for H2O, make Greenville your part way point and we can cruise up together :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yea 👍

Well after all of the work or replacing the single Fuel Pump swirl pot bladder rubbers, the FP itself decided to take a crap LOL... I decided to go all out and be done (hopefully) once and for all.

Added from this thread -> New small project



IE Surge tank
Bosch 044 Fuel pump
Stock G60/Mk2 VDO transfer pump (did calcs and flow rate is more than sufficient)
Custom Made Mount plate, Fuel Filter mount, etc
'02 Audi S4 Fuel FIlter
14mm x 1.5mm to -6 AN Adapter Fitting (Fuel Filter Inlet)
12mm x 1.5mm to -6 AN Adapter Fitting (Fuel Filter outlet)
M5 and M6 nuts for 044's elec terminals (yes, diff sizes)
 Banjo fitting for 044 outlet using the 044 Check valve
6' Aeroquip line and lots of various AN fittings
Earls 5/16" compression fittings to -6AN for adapting to Stock Nylon lines (must get brass insert from hardware store)



*Click to enbiggen*







*Transfer Pump test fit* isolating rubber (Buna-N) was trimmed before install




*Test Fit before assembling*



*to feed this..*













Setting up Fuel filter layout.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Heat Shield action*
















The welds are not as bad as they appear in most the crappy cell phone pics, however, I noticed just as I was finishing that the car seats that someone stacked on my Tig must have slid and cracked the flow meter which was leaking pretty good... I hadn't Tig'ed on it in months and didn't notice/fix it until I was almost done, so they are certainly not my best either.





So, for the Factory nylon line to -An, I am using the Earl's Compression fitting, with a separate insert to prevent the line from collapsing. I have used these before, so I know they work well.

Note: the factory line has a brass insert to prevent the hose clamp from crushing.





However, in this pic the is a 3/16" drill bit that barely fits in.





Using a custom insert (from a hardware store, but the flange end must be trimmed) with the Earl's, the inner Diameter is increased to 7/32"+. Not that I Personally really need the extra flow, but I am sure someone who needs the extra flow for E85, etc could spare the expense of running all new lines.




A pic of the whole thing.



The amount of $ that ended up in this is just retarded, but I guess if I never have to revisit it again, it is all worth it...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)




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## YONI RED (Sep 19, 2008)

This is Art 
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

looking great shawn you are making awesome ground with this build

:thumbup:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

DIR1X

Do it right 1 time. Most of the stuff you need to get this stuff done isn't available off the shelf or at the hardware store. Working on my long forgotten grey market 914-6 or 67 bug was just maintenance or repair compared to the Corrado. It's truly amazing how you have to engineer so many work arounds to make just one modification. Nice work Shawn. Appriciate the pics & build thread!!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks guys. I am starting to get back into some work here. Intercooler piping is coming tomorrow, so I hope to be starting on that aspect and make this IC that I have work. 

I would really like to have this wrapped up this winter...


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> I would really like to have this wrapped up this winter...


You only have a few months


----------



## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

Awesome


----------



## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

i havnt been on here in a long time. nice to see some progress. keep it up. cant wait to see it finished.
whats next?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I finally had time to finish up some paint work that I started, well about a year ago  It has been one thing after another and this morning, was the day that I had time and the weather was absolutely perfect! 68* at about 8 am with zero wind, no bugs and low Humidity (A rarity for Florida). When your driveway sometimes serves as a booth, elements have to be perfect 

So, I painted my new Bumper (70mm Lip finally will go on!!!) and my spare G60 Rad support. The Rad support is important so I can take the VR one off of my car and wrap up my intercooler project (requires the VR) I started, well over a year ago...

I made a mistake when stripping the bumper and going down too far. There were a few coats over the Factory and used SEM Bumper stripper, but I should have used a softer scraper and tried to take all but the factory finish off. When you expose the bare plastic, there is a lot of prep and stuff that needs to happen to make the primer stick properly.

*sorry for the cell phone pics (clickable)*


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Nice work :thumbup:

Talking about "taking your time" with a project, lol :laugh:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> I finally had time to finish up some paint work that I started, well about a year ago  It has been one thing after another and this morning, was the day that I had time and the weather was absolutely perfect! 68* at about 8 am with zero wind, no bugs and low Humidity (A rarity for Florida). When your driveway sometimes serves as a booth, elements have to be perfect


There's something to be said about driveway shoots, AWESOME! :beer:


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## BOOSTINDUB (Jun 17, 2005)

moaarrrrr pics incredible build.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

ok, I have some updates. 

1st, I finished up the Front Bumper, Rad Support and SFT 70mm Lip sans any Wetsanding. It does not need it but I may touch it down the road. There is barely any hint of any peel at all if any, which I am very pleased with 9.8/10. I will get some proper pictures of the car when I clean it all up. 

*SFT 70mm Lip 👍* 

All pics clickable. 

 


 
 


 


*Modified the G60 Support for the VR Grill. This support is only temp anyway which you will see when I post of up the IC work next.* ...crappy cell phone pic 


 


*Corrado Reinforcement Lip and Lower Rad Support = 0. Me = 1. It was a hard fight, but I got every bolt in :screwy:* Yes, that is a new reinforcement strip, bolts and Lower Bumper Grill  again, proper pics when I get it all cleaned up.


----------



## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

Fantastic work, as always. :beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

:beer: 

One thing I noticed when I was taking the headlights out that I don't recall when I switched to the VR Ecode Glass and Bezels a couple of years back was that the Bezels were sagging on the bot. There was a gap between the bottom of the bezel and the lens which made the lines not straight. I guess wind was getting between and worsening the fit over the years. 

What can I say, when everything is now perfect up front, the little things stand out  Anyway, what I did, was just carefully squeeze 3 dabs of clear RTV between the bottom of the lens and the Bezel, clamped and let it set up over night. :thumbup:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Custom FMIC Fitment*

Let me state first, that if you are considering using the IC as I am below, know that I bought it with only rough dims and the intention that it was only going to need _*slight*_ modifications to work (yea right)... 

So, in case you were asleep or just forgot from a few pages ago, I am going with a custom FMIC and using the stock bumper, stock Lower bumper Grill and unmodified Rebar. I looked at making once from scratch using a BELL or Garret Core, and in hind sight, it would have been easier in the long run (as would have AWIC).. 

*So here is the Plan:* 


Using Stock G60 Rad becuase it is bigger 

MkIV Condenser (for reasons mentioned on prev pages) 

VR Rad support modified (very important as you will see) 

re-fabricated lower Rad support (Drivers Side where it flares outward) 

a highly Modified big ass FMIC 

unmodified bumper Rebar 

 

NOTE, the info to follow is only for the above Configuration! VR Guys, don't try to get any ideas as you will not have the clearance if you have A/C. 

Here are the *Basic Constraints* for this config as shown below in my highly technical drawing. 

 

Notice there is a bit more room than one would expect between the Condenser and the Rad support when using the VR support on a G60. This is the reason I needed to paint my spare G60 one to swap on my car so I can finish the mockup on my build. 

*Shown Actual VR Support on G60 w/ A/C.* (note: see why I needed to repaint my Ft Bumper and Rad support?  )


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

...as compared to the same setup with the G60 upper Rad support. 

Notice the Rad support come very close to the Condenser all the way across? Unlike the VR support on the G60 which has a lot of clearance all the way across (including the Center Down Strut Support which is much narrower on the VR). 

This is all due to the fact that the VR Rad and Cond are angled a LOT more than the G60 to clear the motor and is much closer to the Grill. 


 


 
 


 
 


also, FWIW note that someone did a piss poor job adding slots to accommodate the VR grill on the G60. They also had it recessed so the Grill sat flush with the G60 headlights where as if you have the universal VR support like I do (show in prev post) there are accommodations for both grills. However, when using the VR grill slots on the G60, the headlights will appear sunken and not even with the grill. Thus why I switched to VR Lenses and Bezels years back.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

Wait you got work done? Did your kids go to camp for the week or something? :laugh:

Paint work looks nice Shawn!

I know you won't use cheap parts in your build but the frozenboost AWIC heat exchanger fits perfect against the core support with no cutting and the bumper clears with room to spare. Just throwing it out there if you decide to go AWIC


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Another major difference (and the need for me to absolutely need the VR support (as you will see). the the height difference toward the Pass side of the Rad/Cond pack. Because the VR is much closer to the Grill, the top of the Rad support is heightened all the way up to the Grill. 

Here is a side by side comparison of the two from above pics. Note the top of the rad support just the the right of the pass headlight (Vr left and G60 Right).


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

TheBurninator said:


> Wait you got work done? Did your kids go to camp for the week or something? :laugh:
> 
> Paint work looks nice Shawn!
> 
> I know you won't use cheap parts in your build but the frozenboost AWIC heat exchanger fits perfect against the core support with no cutting and the bumper clears with room to spare. Just throwing it out there if you decide to go AWIC


 If I wasn't already in for 2 intercoolers and countless amounts of time, I would have went this route. I highly recommend anyone in this day and age to go AWIC. The IC that I chose (yet to be identified yet here) that led me so far was soo close to not needing a massive overhaul :laugh:


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sdezego said:


> If I wasn't already in for 2 intercoolers and countless amounts of time, I would have went this route. I highly recommend anyone in this day and age to go AWIC. The IC that I chose (yet to be identified yet here) that led me so far was soo close to not needing a massive overhaul :laugh:


 Pic to show it in action 









Back to OCD awesomeness :thumbup:


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## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

Good job as always 
I like the cooler, too bad it wasn't available when I did my a/w swap


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Nice. Plus you can run Tow Hooks (if you wanted), both full brake ducts and use the G60 IC duct for your Oil cooler :laugh: 

I can't say I hadn't given it thought..


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## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Nice. Plus you can run Tow Hooks (if you wanted), both full brake ducts and use the G60 IC duct for your Oil cooler :laugh:
> 
> I can't say I hadn't given it thought..


 IMO the best reason is you don't have to cut the rebar at all. Therefore keeping safety equipment functional


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

...so, here was the initial fit up. I said it was big :laugh: 

Notice the cast end tanks and the 2.25" Core? As you will see I needed to gain ever inch from side to side so I needed to shave off those has Ribs, etc. ..and then some. And yes, the inlet and outlets are not in the correct orientation which I was aware of when I chose. 

 


 


*Stock G60 Rad in Factory position* with the "G60ing" Spal Fan mod  

 

*More Pics* Notice the clearance on the pass side top? That is partly why the VR support was a must. 

 


 


 


 


Here is the way every aspect of this whole IC project went... *"almost"* 

 

I need to clearance a small section of the End tank to clear the Pass headlight. Even with the shaved castings. 

Driver's side is right up to the latch spring, so no room to give. 

 


Will post more as I progress.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

oh yea, in case you are wondering this is a VAG IC. From a Euro Audi S3 2.0t 

It is a Tube/Fin as you may have noticed. There are pros and cons to both Tube/Fin and Bar/Plate IC. I decided this was best since it is basically blocking the Radiator? 

I also decided I wanted the IC in front of the Condenser. Great for the IC, but maybe not so much so for the A/C


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

prob the thread i look forward to seeing updates on the most! thursday just got a whole lot better. 

casey used the frozen boost exchanger and it does fit really well. lets also keep in mind that AWIC still has lots of hurdles to deal with. I had told myself that if i ever went AWIC i would want the resevior to be mounted under the car somewhere. I never liked the idea of cutting holes in the car to run the coolant lines to the IC and exchanger.


----------



## TheBurninator (Jan 7, 2009)

sdezego said:


> oh yea, in case you are wondering this is a VAG IC. From a Euro Audi S3 2.0t
> 
> It is a Tube/Fin as you may have noticed. There are pros and cons to both Tube/Fin and Bar/Plate IC. I decided this was best since it is basically blocking the Radiator?
> 
> I also decided I wanted the IC in front of the Condenser. Great for the IC, but maybe not so much so for the A/C


 Holy effing crammed space! 

I bet you end up going AWIC by the time this project is done in 10 years :laugh:


----------



## chc-rado (Nov 20, 2008)

TheBurninator said:


> Holy effing crammed space!
> 
> I bet you end up going AWIC by the time this project is done in 10 years :laugh:


 He has until 2020, that what his build signature. :beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

chc-rado said:


> He has until 2020, that what his build signature. :beer:


 You will be eating your words soon. Very soon, but not that soon


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## pileofredparts (Mar 20, 2009)

:thumbup:opcorn:


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## yellowslc (Aug 29, 2000)

Did you want a chromeoly core support like I used? 

My C&R radiator is 28w x 14h x 3.5 thick 
Bell topflow IC is 24x x 14h x 3" thick 

Slight mods to OEM bumper rebar and room for brake ducts to boot! 

PM for pics.. I dont have a host anymore. 

RA


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

It's been so long I honestly forget what it all looked like. Sending you a PM


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Worked a bit on the IC during Lunch so decided to back the C out and take some finished pics of the Repainted Front, New Bumper Grill, and SFT 70mm lip. I can;t say enough about the quality of this product 🍺

Click to bigger it:


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Worked a bit on the IC during Lunch so decided to back the C out and take some finished pics of the Repainted Front, New Bumper Grill, and SFT 70mm lip. I can;t say enough about the quality of this product :beer:
> 
> Click to bigger it:


Looks killer Shawn :beer:


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

sweet :thumbup:


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## FlatlanderSJ (Oct 4, 2007)

large thin cores are the most efficient for heat transfer. Not so sure about pressure drop though.  :thumbup:


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## RedYellowWhite (Apr 21, 2008)

Great work!!! :thumbup:


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

There are few people's projects who I like to take time to read all the details of their posts, your posts and this project is one of my dreams and its carried out better than I could imagine. Thank you for proving that dreams can come true (except it in your garage and not mine):thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement Frank!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I had a bit of time to work on the modifications needed for the IC. I cut off the in/out, Welded up the Sensor ports on the end tanks, moved a section of the end tank ~1/4" to clear the Pass Ecode Headlight and also welded a mount.

Pics are not the best







*Very pleased with the quality of the core!*







*The start*


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## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Paint looks great Shawn, sometimes ya get lucky shooting outside. Especially black, terrible color for dirt/bugs etc. The I/C looks huge. Im curious to see it all piped in/done. i fought w/ myself about doing a large front mount but that meant more chopping, lol I don't have your patience. Can you get proper airflow to the entire i/c? That was my main concern about tucking something like that, not much air flow. Had I went that route, I'd have to make some proper ducting to feel 100% about it. Looking good tho, glad to see you working on it for once lol


----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Nice Kawasaki G60ski. Is it a '87?


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

petethepug said:


> Nice Kawasaki G60ski. Is it a '87?


LOL, close '88. Just about everything I own is OLD school except my wife and her stuff


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

dasbeast3.0 said:


> Paint looks great Shawn, sometimes ya get lucky shooting outside. Especially black, terrible color for dirt/bugs etc.


Thanks, yes that is why I waited for perfect conditions. Long wait..



dasbeast3.0 said:


> The I/C looks huge. Im curious to see it all piped in/done. i fought w/ myself about doing a large front mount but that meant more chopping,


The Rad support and the Tow hooks are the the only thing that needed chopping (albeit quite a bit).




dasbeast3.0 said:


> ... lol I don't have your patience.


Sometimes I don't have the patience for my patience :laugh:




dasbeast3.0 said:


> Can you get proper airflow to the entire i/c? That was my main concern about tucking something like that, not much air flow.


Yes indeed. The key is the thickness of this core. So, if you look back in the pic with the rebar, you will see there is plenty of room between the IC and the Rebar. The Fact that VW really went through strides on the Corrado to duct the entire front end and create a high pressure area from top to bottom of the rad area is a plus as you know. Reasons why the lower Rad support bolts to the bottom of the bumper. 

I will also be ducting the sides as the stock did with the plastic pieces that most have removed or broken over time LOL


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## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

Thats the way to go honestly. a/a is a lot less bulk, just needs a little creativity to pull off a clean setup like yours. Get your ass workin now :laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

dasbeast3.0 said:


> Thats the way to go honestly. a/a is a lot less bulk, just needs a little creativity to pull off a clean setup like yours. Get your ass workin now :laugh:


haha, I might since I will probably be waiting until tomorrow for this damn race to start 

I did however do something really dumb and it is certainly not the first time I have done this. It has been off and on HOT as hell here, so welding tends to suck if you will be at it for a while. Well, I always cover, but I put the long sleeve denim shirt on I use for welding and never buttoned up the cuffs. I have two huge RED V's on underside of both lower forearms :banghead:

:snowcool:


----------



## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

Nice, makes me not feel so bad after the huge sunburn I had on the undersides of my arms when I welded up my surge tank enclosure. Turns out, aluminum is pretty reflective :laugh:

The intercooler looks great, I think the performance of that core in that location is going to be a real winner :wave:


----------



## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

leebro61 said:


> Nice, makes me not feel so bad after the huge sunburn I had on the undersides of my arms when I welded up my surge tank enclosure. Turns out, aluminum is pretty reflective :laugh:



Lol! I remember smelling cooking skin when I was first learning to weld aluminum. Took me a few minutes to realize what it was.


----------



## 35i 2000 (Jan 27, 2005)

looking great as always shawn:thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

leebro61 said:


> ...The intercooler looks great, I think the performance of that core in that location is going to be a real winner :wave:


 I knew you would approve. Got some more minor work done on it today, but nothing significant to post.


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## dasbeast3.0 (Aug 15, 2007)

haha awesome. The worst is using flux core above your head, it spits everywhere. my hands and arms are all scarred up from it. Im always in a rush and rarely use gloves so "just this once" turns into burning myself every time I weld on the lift. Yes, dumb..i never claimed to be smart though :laugh:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Busy week/end, but got a bit to put toward the car. 

I spent most of the day Sat cleaning up my garage and organizing (much needed) and it also gave me the gumption to transplant the new full mock bay on top 

*Just some early mocks on what I have planned for this side of the IC*



Mock clears everything including brake duct with a tad bit of room for movement. Cut off tow hook area will be reinforced.


*New Full Mock Bay*







*The Alt Clears everything nicely*




For once, the VW Gods are giving me a pass!! I was really worried about needing to rework the Evaporator and re-orient the Expansion valve based on crude measurements. Well, *low and behold*, something actually worked in my favor for a change. 🍺 🍺


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Looking good Shawn, getting close :thumbup::thumbup:


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## 6BangSneezer (Mar 4, 2011)

Late, but *IN* opcorn:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

6BangSneezer said:


> Late, but *IN* opcorn:


You only had 6 years to join in on the fun :laugh:


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## 6BangSneezer (Mar 4, 2011)

sdezego said:


> You only had 6 years to join in on the fun :laugh:


Ha true, but thats fast for me! At my rate i'll have a blue tag by the time I do my next oil change :banghead:


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

it still seems like you may have to angle the expansion valve downwards slightly to clear the line ports? it could also just be the angle of the picture....

either way it is so nice when things work out without a ton of trouble.:thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yea, pic is a bit deceiving, but since I will be making custom a/c lines, I make tweak it a few degrees downward anyway, which is no problem and no fear of hurting the evap.


I scrapped some time together to do a bit more in the IC piping and it is coming along nicely albeit a lot of tedious work. I just about have the Pass side done, but here are a few pics during.

I ended up cutting much more off the IC, just because it was easier/better for making smooth transitions. Even though it looks like there is a step transition at the top of that pipe where it meets the IC end tank, the inside is smooth as a baby's butt. The IC End tank is cast with a large rib, which will be ground down before welding to look more eye pleasing.






*Filler Strip*









*Give you an idea , before shaping and welding.*





No progress this weekend as I will be in Daytona for Bike week and Races.


----------



## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> No progress this weekend as I will be in Daytona for Bike week and Races.


 Looking good Shawn, as always :thumbup: 

I passed thru Daytona earlier in the week and it was already crazy arond the HD dealer @ US-1 all closed off for what seemed like miles, we stopped there for gas on the way back from Jax picking up an almost immaculate 83 Cabby


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

The new tank looks great. Can't wait to see the whole intercooler complete :wave:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Looking good Shawn, as always :thumbup:
> 
> I passed thru Daytona earlier in the week and it was already crazy arond the HD dealer @ US-1 all closed off for what seemed like miles, we stopped there for gas on the way back from Jax picking up an almost immaculate 83 Cabby


 haha, yea there were lots of shenanigans as usual. Races were unbelievable as always. An 18yr old girl from Ft Meyers won the morning Superbike race  if you are into that -> http://elenamyers.com/. The Daytona 200 was great as well. 

...back to work now


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> haha, yea there were lots of shenanigans as usual. Races were unbelievable as always. An 18yr old girl from Ft Meyers won the morning Superbike race  if you are into that -> http://elenamyers.com/. The Daytona 200 was great as well.
> 
> ...back to work now


 Nice, but what does she way, 90lbs soaking wet? :laugh: 

The 200 is awesome! I always liked the vintage class and flat track racing around the corner :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Spent 2 days figuring out what happened to the Cooling circuit on my TIG , but got it all squared up.

Had a bit of time to finish up the outlet side of the IC, I started mocking up some of the piping and will be starting on the Inlet side of the IC. It is slow progress as usual, but steady.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

sdezego said:


> Spent 2 days figuring out what happened to the Cooling circuit on my TIG , but got it all squared up.
> 
> Had a bit of time to finish up the outlet side of the IC, I started mocking up some of the piping and will be starting on the Inlet side of the IC. It is slow progress as usual, but steady.


One of the best FMIC intercooler installs I have seen. Nice work, can't wait to see this transplanted into the car. :thumbup:


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Sr. Karmann said:


> Nice, but what does she *way*, 90lbs soaking wet? :laugh:
> 
> The 200 is awesome! I always liked the vintage class and flat track racing around the corner :thumbup:


Way? :facepalm: Chad please tell me you were drunk when you posted this or Adam posted for you. 


Beautiful work as always Shawn. :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks guys. As always, one thing I will remain true to is not cutting corners just to be done with it. I still have quite a bit of work to do, but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

The best things in life a far from a silly car, although it it would take an act of congress for me to part with my Corrado or my Harley for that matter.

But this was a truly great weekend! I got work done on the Corrado, my son (whom I coach at baseball) Pitched 2 great innings and hit a hard double off of the best pitcher in the little league Majors here, and I taught both my son and daughter to surf today. This, BTW, was at the same beach and very spot that I learned many years ago and then later used to represent my Turbo MKII Scirocco at back in the late '80s. Coincidentally, "The Shark Bite Capital of the world" (New Symrna Beach Inlet) , but who worries about that stuff?


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## hubbell (Oct 30, 2001)

IC looks really good. sounds like a great weekend too!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> I taught both my son and daughter to surf today. This, BTW, was at the same beach and very spot that I learned many years ago and then later used to represent my Turbo MKII Scirocco at back in the late '80s. Coincidentally, "The Shark Bite Capital of the world" (New Symrna Beach Inlet) , but who worries about that stuff?


:thumbup::thumbup:



dogger said:


> Way? :facepalm: Chad please tell me you were drunk when you posted this or Adam posted for you.


Drunk posting FTW :laugh:


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## AJmustDIE (Dec 22, 2010)

Day 2070.
Yes... I counted.. kinda.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

AJmustDIE said:


> Day 2070.
> Yes... I counted.. kinda.


Rome?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Nothing in the last few weeks on this project. $$ Projects always come first.

I did finish up the outlet side though and started on the inlet.


This was my first official AL Intercooler Pipe TIG welding. Not too bad (just a little movement), but room for improvement which happened on weld 2 and 3, etc. Impressed at how the 2mm CXracing pipe welds.


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

sdezego said:


> Impressed at how the 2mm CXracing pipe welds.


100% agree. Their intercoolers aren't super nice quality, but the piping is actually good stuff. :thumbup:


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## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

sdezego said:


> Coincidentally, "The Shark Bite Capital of the world" (New Symrna Beach Inlet) , but who worries about that stuff?


That's the whole reason I never wanted to learn. Ima wuss when it comes to being on the food chain. I'd much prefer to have a 800cc twin cylinder between my legs when playing in the surf.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I have been super busy with everything under the sun (except the Corrado). Although, I did Buff and wax it and drive it a bit  

One of many items that has been keeping me busy is this little girl I picked up. Don't let the fact that looks a bit messy and old fool you. This thing is built like a freaking tank! 

I started tearing it apart to inspect, clean and paint. All of the internals look amazing, so it just needs a couple of bushings made on the apron shafts etc, and they are not even really that bad. Really just some TLC and a few things here and there. 

Should be fun to have this at the house and not have to travel to my brother's shop to use his mini lathe


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> I have been super busy with everything under the sun (except the Corrado). Although, I did Buff and wax it and drive it a bit
> 
> One of many items that has been keeping me busy is this little girl I picked up. Don't let the fact that looks a bit messy and old fool you. This thing is built like a freaking tank!
> 
> ...


 Damn dood  

Supposedly it's the old "tankish" machinery that is the best :beer:


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## 6BangSneezer (Mar 4, 2011)

Suddenly my new flat head screwdriver doesn't seem as nice :facepalm: 
Nice find there :thumbup:


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## SLC4EVER (Oct 7, 1999)

Nice! :thumbup::thumbup: 

I see a standup in the shop...you ride?


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

1940's Churchill-Redman Cub. Very cool!

http://www.lathes.co.uk/churchill cub/


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## JBETZ (Feb 17, 2000)

nice old lathe...did you also get the tail stock? 
my first lathe was an 1800's vintage that originally ran from leather belts and steam or water power. It had been converted to electric. cool. we have an arbor press that is late 1800's we use it mostly on superchargers. fun


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## Daniel333 (Jun 22, 2012)

Dude, can't wait to see this completed! Kick Asshttp://www.*********/ht3.jpg


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

petethepug said:


> 1940's Churchill-Redman Cub. Very cool!
> 
> http://www.lathes.co.uk/churchill cub/


 The MK1 was 1940's, this is the MK3 so it is Circa 1960. They were from the UK and used by the Royal Navy apparently. Ahead of their time. Funny enough, I got the manual from that link though. 




SLC4EVER said:


> Nice! :thumbup::thumbup:
> 
> I see a standup in the shop...you ride?


 I used to, but I haven't had it out in years  Big wave jumping was my specialty  




JBETZ said:


> nice old lathe...did you also get the tail stock?
> my first lathe was an 1800's vintage that originally ran from leather belts and steam or water power. It had been converted to electric. cool. we have an arbor press that is late 1800's we use it mostly on superchargers. fun


  

Yes, I got the 3 Jaw, the tail stock, etc. Unfortunately, did not get the 4 jaw, the Face plate or the rests, but that is not that big of a deal considering I got a very good deal on it. It also had a auto taper attachment as an option (in addition to the slide and cross auto feeds), but manual tapers will be fine for me. All of the feeds work proper, and the gears and headstock is in fantastic shape. It will be nice to get off the small southbend and have it here at the house to boot. ...so I can stay up all night


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## DUBZAK (Oct 27, 2009)

I can only imagine the awesome to come from that machine in the future.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Some dude in the UK got his hair caught in one of those and was featured on one of those amazing survival shows. Now's the time to cut off that mantail if you have one.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

:thumbup:


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## _Val (Jan 5, 2007)

Is it ready yet?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

_Val said:


> Is it ready yet?


The Lathe or the Swap?

Lathe = Yes (almost) 
Swap = no, not yet :facepalm:

:laugh:


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

2013 bump  This thread is getting me motivated.


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

:wave::thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

LOL, :wave: 

I spent the time off for the holidays working on some paying projects as well as working on my garage (which is slowing becoming a small shop)  The Lathe is just now about done and already in use. I also got my small 6x24 benchtop mill back together, mounted and operational which will be very convenient for small mill projects (Bridgeport at my brother's shop for the bigger stuff). Also ordered a bunch of tooling for both machines 

Good stuff to come. :beer:


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## VR SEX (Apr 2, 2002)

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

sdezego said:


> LOL, :wave:
> 
> I spent the time off for the holidays working on some paying projects as well as working on my garage (which is slowing becoming a small shop)  The Lathe is just now about done and already in use. I also got my small 6x24 benchtop mill back together, mounted and operational which will be very convenient for small mill projects (Bridgeport at my brother's shop for the bigger stuff). Also ordered a bunch of tooling for both machines
> 
> Good stuff to come. :beer:



:thumbup: Nice score on the lathe!


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Good stuff to come. :beer:


:beer:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Pics of the almost done (but currently operational) lathe. I also fabbed up a Chip guard. Just need to make a spur gear to put the whole apron assy back together).






..and my little benchtop mill I got back together. Bridgeport at my brother's shop for the big stuff.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

Fun stuff! :beer:


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## dmanny19892 (May 7, 2013)

wow this is a lot of stuff to go through in one sitting. luckily i only like to read the important stuff. awesome build but dont you think its time for it to be over..... 2020 is 7 years from now! what else do you need to finish? i'll come help if you need me to.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Yea, it is definitely time for it to be done... I really hope to wrap it up this year. 

The good thing, is that I have not given up and work on it weekly, but life has me too busy lately (I am actually ok with that). The Older you get the less time you have to do what you want as opposed to what you "need to do". Wife and kids are priorities as well as work and the house (job in itself). The maintenance alone on 2 Harleys, kids motorcycles, boat and 3 cars is a full time job too. Not to mention the side work I have been doing including continuing to make 02m mounts. 

What I have left: 

- Rebuild spare G60 charger (already started) 
- Finish IC piping (Close) 
- Make intake piping and Air Box 
- Relocate Batt to Trunk (Likely) 
- Finalize A/C lines 
- Purchase and mount Oil Cooler in Stock G60 IC duct 
- finish remaking the Serp Belt Tensioner (Close) 
- Fab work on Header 
- MSIII wiring harness 
- Misc odds and ends 

Then just install it all an [email protected]


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Gonna have the exchg'r for the AWIC cram'd behind the bumper. Oil Cooler in Stock G60 IC duct. You just resolved where my oil cooler's going.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Yea, it is definitely time for it to be done... I really hope to wrap it up this year.
> 
> The good thing, is that I have not given up and work on it weekly, but life has me too busy lately (I am actually ok with that). The Older you get the less time you have to do what you want as opposed to what you "need to do". Wife and kids are priorities as well as work and the house (job in itself). The maintenance alone on 2 Harleys, kids motorcycles, boat and 3 cars is a full time job too. Not to mention the side work I have been doing including continuing to make 02m mounts.
> 
> ...


 useable BOOST for 2K14 :laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sr. Karmann said:


> useable BOOST for 2K14 :laugh:


 Lest not forget, I am driving my Corrado daily while this is taking place


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

petethepug said:


> Gonna have the exchg'r for the AWIC cram'd behind the bumper. Oil Cooler in Stock G60 IC duct. You just resolved where my oil cooler's going.


 yea, might as well make use of it. I am planning on tapping into that duct for the CAI to the Air box which will be relocated to the Driver's side. approx 6"x7" duct opening in the rear, but the oil cooler doesn't have to be that size obviously.


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## Sr. Karmann (Feb 5, 2009)

sdezego said:


> Lest not forget, I am driving my Corrado daily while this is taking place


 :laugh: 

busted for the "useable" edit :laugh:


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## [email protected] (May 14, 2009)

The lathe looks nice all cleaned up now :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> The lathe looks nice all cleaned up now :thumbup:


 Thanks, I spent a week or more hand scraping the ways to get this thing in perfect tune and back to spec. Been using it quite a bit, but still need to make one Spur gear and shaft for the apron gearbox and then will be able to start cutting threads and auto facing. I bought the right gear cutter to use on the bridgeport, but just need to find some time...


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## odj (Nov 26, 2001)

I just finished reading the whole thread. Brilliant work. :thumbup:

Any progress over the last six months or so?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

odj said:


> I just finished reading the whole thread. Brilliant work. :thumbup:
> 
> Any progress over the last six months or so?


Thanks. Yes, a bit of progress actually. I'll post when I have time to sort pictures.

I know I have said it before, but I am shooting for *this* year. Outside of tires, I have purchased just about everything to finish, so this was something that contributed to the the project pace.

I picked up a set of BBS CH's so it seems 5x100 wheels have been sorted out  I would have preferred an 8" width max, but many have made the 8.5" CHs to work very nicely on the Corrado.


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## Nastyboost35 (Mar 26, 2007)

I can't wait to see new pictures, I think it is so awesome you have a whole front clip to fit and fab all your stuff while you still drive your rado. Genius! Florida Corrados ftw 2014!!!!:beer:


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## vr6 3.0 (Apr 19, 2008)

Great build! Any new updates? Why not just throw some doors and a roof on there and have 2 rados? :laugh:


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## edocdog (Sep 17, 2010)

Nastyboost35 said:


> I can't wait to see new pictures, I think it is so awesome you have a whole front clip to fit and fab all your stuff while you still drive your rado. Genius! Florida Corrados ftw 2014!!!!:beer:


^^ My thoughts exactly. Boths of ya. Getting tired of seeing mine and rycou's:laugh:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Never got a chance to update photos and updated progress up to end of Jan but will try to soon. From then, zero progress as I am just way to busy these days.

Goal is still to have the new lump in this year.




> Boths of ya. Getting tired of seeing mine and rycou's:laugh:


, my car is on the road and I drive it quite a bit, but need to find time to meet up with you guys :laugh: ...(right after I find time to work on this project :laugh


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

sdezego said:


> Never got a chance to update photos and updated progress up to end of Jan but will try to soon. From then, zero progress as I am just way to busy these days.
> 
> Goal is still to have the new lump in this year.
> 
> ...


Any updates?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I have been still accumulating photos of slow current progress, but no time to update. I will try to get some stuff up soon.

I ordered my last big(er) ticket item just this week 


I also have some rollers to show with the updates...


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## timsvr (Nov 14, 2008)

Awesome build thread. I'm the guy who was just emailing with you. Thanks for all the info!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

timsvr said:


> Awesome build thread. I'm the guy who was just emailing with you. Thanks for all the info!


:thumbup: I really need to update it...


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## leebro61 (Nov 7, 2001)

sdezego said:


> :thumbup: I really need to update it...


I flipped back to some of the early pages just to reminisce. There is so much good work going on in here! :thumbup:


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## VRT (Dec 8, 2001)

WHAT!! are you still working on this?


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## G60ING (Jun 27, 2000)

It's a lifetime project


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## schnelle autos (Apr 26, 2011)

Awesome build, let's get it together soon

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## schnelle autos (Apr 26, 2011)

Any updates Shawn?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

schnelle autos said:


> Any updates Shawn?


Last few months have been extremely busy, so no time to even look at it (other than acquire a few parts here and there).

My Durango's Auto Trans is still apart in my garage with all of the new parts awaiting re-assembly (that along has been 4 months..), and it takes priority. ..hopefully this week.

No excuses, just life updates


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## schnelle autos (Apr 26, 2011)

Why do engineers always seem to fix their auto trans themselves. Just found it funny 😁. Like haha


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## SlowVRT (Jan 3, 2009)

I don't come on here much anymore, but I was just thinking about this thread and decided to come back and check it out and it's still not done. :laugh:

But atleast you are doing stuff, mine just sits in the corner of my shop with a inch of dust on it. :banghead::laugh::laugh:


----------



## CORRADOABFG60 (Feb 18, 2011)

*02M starter studs*

Thanks for awesome and well detailed build.
I am doing an 20v 02m awd swap in my corrado.
Were did you find the longer starter studs?
Are they an oem part or custom?
Regards Gerasimos


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks. Not much progress lately, but I have s ton of stuff to post from the past year or 2 (if I ever get time).

The studs that I have researched and found are VW factory from a later Auto Trans. Shoot me a PM and I will send you the part number and length. I have since been able to find a 10.9 Bolt of proper length which is less expensive from a bolt supplier. The only benefit of the factory stud, is that it has the 10mm short stud on the head for the Ground Cable. LMk if you have any questions!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

schnelle autos said:


> Why do engineers always seem to fix their auto trans themselves. Just found it funny 😁. Like haha


A little late on the response (like 3 years LOL) but I was a mechanic LONG before I was an Engineer . The transmission was finished shortly after your post and built to tear down a house. I rebuilt and beefed it up 9 ways til Sunday because this pulled our Travel Trailer. However, shortly before finishing the trans, I came across a deal on an 6.0 F250 SD Diesel that I could not pass up. :laugh: Naturally, I had to Bullet Proof it and in a few months following, pulled teh heads and went to town...

Also, had to do the 09g Trans in my Wife's old CC that got handed down to my son. While we were in there, we did the Timing Chains, rear main seal and a host of other things...

These along with a bazillion other projects bring us to today.

Still Driving my Corrado with the Stage 4 G60 setup and have been tweaking Megasquirt all along the way. In addition to all of the above, I have been inching my way into completion.

The Trans on the CC was a big roadblock and my son and I lost valuable time over the winter on the Corrado Project we started for him (yea, another one). We had the Engine bay almost ready to paint when the trans went out, so we halted his Corrado. The plan was, Paint his engine Bay, take the Drive train out of mine and slip into his and then install the 2020 6speed.

I'll will catch up on some pictures over the last few years... :banghead:


Here is a teaser of the CHs I refinished for this project:


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks like I left off updating the thread while working on the intercooler. So, here are updates.

As always, click to Enbiggin!

I ended up remaking this pipe later on as you will see because I wasn't 100% satisfied with the gap at the TB (boot)..




*Making Support brackets. Please neglect, these sloppy Tig welds as I was rushing...*













*Temporary to hold things together while I remake the Duct.*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I tried finding a Stock VAG AirBox that would work (...and bought a few), but ended up designing something that I am very happy with. ( Have seals to seal edges, not pictured )


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Making the Custom G60 Bybass and Some PCV items for the ProVent Catch Can which will be Closed system.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*On to the PCV bits.*






























*Similar design to join the other ends..*


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Custom Brake Booster Line (hardline and plastic Flex) that I made from pieces of 1.8t


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I decided to use the 02m Master Cyl and modify it for the 02a bracket and pedal. There are provisions for nylon bushings for the pedal pin (not pictured)








*Needed to notch the top right plastic of the MC. No bid deal there as it is just part of the support Rib.*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

If you have a keen eye, you noticed a custom intake the Driver's side of the G60 in previous pics.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Other Piece*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)




----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)




----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Again, a bit out of order, but G60 porting and rebuild.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Rough Finish Stage of outlet






No wear lip on this late gen charger


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Intake Pipe I made earlier. This shows the clearance under the G60 upper Rad hose (cut). This is is an old hose, I have a new which will be on the final install.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

That's enough of an update for tonight... :laugh: Not caught up yet by any means LOL


----------



## theprf (Sep 21, 2007)

sdezego said:


> I decided to use the 02m Master Cyl and modify it for the 02a bracket and pedal. There are provisions for nylon bushings for the pedal pin (not pictured)


The O2M master is 0.630" bore and the O2A/O2J is 0.750" bore. Using the O2A master on an O2M slave gives terrible clutch feel as I found. I changed to a Mk4 O2M master as well, and I made a pedal pushrod clevis as well with a bronze bushing, and I cut that top rib as well. Fluid displacement per inch of master cyl pushrod travel tells the story:
Mk4 O2M: 0.630 bore, volume = 0.3117 in2 per inch
Corrado O2A: 0.75 bore, volume = 0.441 in2 per inch: 40% more fluid for the same travel = clutch pedal becomes on/off switch

Clutch feel is vastly improved which I assume was your goal as well? 

However, bleeding the slave was not improved so I cannot yet get all the air out.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Interesting, but I really didn't think about it that much or even compare. Since I have the whole 02m setup, it just made sense for me.

Good information to know though!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

I searched for the Right Oil Cooler because I wanted to mount it where the Stock G60 intercooler was with the cooling duct in place, etc. Settled on this Mocal one from BAT. Need to get some low profile ANs as well.

Since my IC take up the whole front of the car, I could not use the stock Power Steering Cooler Pipe. I used some 1/2 Copper to make up a Home Depot Motorsports PS Cooler :laugh: I actually bought a DeRale PS Cooler with ANs, but was not pleased with inside Diam. This is far better solution IMO. This is the Low Press side, so it's easy to get creative.










Need to make or Extend the Duct. No Biggie. Stock Brake Duct also fits in the mix.


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Suspension time. So, I bought a set of brand new FK Coil overs (sans the cartridges) from a fellow vortexer under the impression that Koni Inserts would drop right in with minimal issue. For the rear, that was the case. A set of Corrado Koni Adjustables pretty much went right in and I only needed to cut off the Lower Shock Mount Eyelet.

The Front was a case from hell. Either Diam was too big, or overall length to short, etc.

After a crapload of research, I was able to find a set of Koni Adjustable Race inserts. They were not cheap, but they are suppose to be badass. All in all I have (iirc) about 800 in a brand new set of Super nice and fairly top end Adj Konis.

Obviously there was some minor machine work necessary as I need to made some spacers as well as machine to front top had because the Koni Race Shafts were larger diam.

*REARS:*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*FRONTS:*

*Spacer I needed to Fabricate.*






*Too Small..*


----------



## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)




----------



## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Hey, that’s fellow vortex’r is PTP. That was humbling to learn the strut insert compatibility posted about the front tubes was not correct. 

No matter where on the the interwebs that info was pulled from, it should have been verified in my own hands like the rear Koni tubes were. Most don’t know Koni does not and will not provide any measurements on their struts compatible with the 8610 1442 loaded in the FK tubes except Koni racing inserts.










We’re you ever able to return or sell the Koni 8610 1262 inserts I posted as compatible? The post I found showed they were 1.77” or 50mm in the S2 forum or same as the KONI racing that fit. I also see Vortex no longer supports / removed BB code for strike through that lined over on the incompatible strut info. I’ll have to edit the info again.

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techn...e-shock-absorber-settings-thread-shocks/page3








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

No worries, and I am not bothered by it and certainly don't blame you for the bad info that you received. I am sure you were misinformed (possibly by Koni themselves). It was par for the course for this project. Something that seems like a no-brainer ends up as the equivalent to herding cats 

Luckily, I was able to resell the fronts w/o too too much pain, but there aren't a ton of people looking to soup up their Audi 80. It was a long time ago, but from what I recall they were too long for the strut bodies.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Also, if it is not evident from the picture, the Front struts I used were:

Koni (8610 1436Race)

I think they sell for about $210 each, but since I was searching so much around for them, one day the good ole amazon pop up came up with SALE: $164 each, so I jumped on it.


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Story of my life Shawn. 12 & 15 y/o girls and 17 y/o son. All my Corrado time migrated into the Yukon forums to master the art of owning an ‘08 3 1/4 ton family mover and the wife’s 07 Vert Barbie Beetle. Everything GMC is so damn heavy compared to the g60.

Please tell me you carry stated value ins on the sc2020.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

ha, yea, I am in the exact same boat (sans the 12 yr old girl), but my 3 yrd old Siberian Huskey is like having another young girl LOL. I have mastered the Ford 6.0 Diesel since it became the replacement family and toy hauler  You want to talk about everything being heavy, LOL. I had to make a special bracket to bolt to each head in order for the hoist to lift each head off at the right angle when I pulled the top end to bullet proof it. :laugh:


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Yea, dogs own our truck. Learned that leather is the way to go with fur children. Cloth allows the fur to get between the weave and stick like a million tiny daggers. 










ps: The New Beetle has a slightly bent FK strut tube up front. Had a machine shop hydraulically pull it but the insert got wasted. Any recommendations on a technique to bring the tube back to spec? It’s inox.


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## Oekern (Jan 3, 2014)

High quality work man ! :beer:
Must be nice to have both the knowledge and tools to manufacture pices yourself!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks. I have been slowly trying to expand my capabilities in my garage shop over the years!


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Time for the header. Many years ago, when this project first started, it seemed feasible to me to take a 16v header and "just" re-flange at the head with a 20v Turbo Flange. Easy, right? Seemed so at the time, so I bought a SuperSprint 16v SS header (see Page 1).

The Euro AGN 20v was Naturally Aspirated and did have a manifold similar to Mk2/Mk3 and used the same down pipes, but they were rare at the time and $$ when found in the states. See Page 3. No one made a 20v header at the time and even today, I only see that TT makes a long tube race header (not good for the street/long term use due to cracking)

So, onward with the road I had chosen and committed myself to. It turns out that the Ex side of the head on the 16v is 90* to the head gasket, whereas the 20v is sloped inward 15%.

So, this was a problem and I decided to correct, by getting some custom mandrel SS bends made. Turns out that 75* bends (one at 78*) were perfect to adapt, but I needed to bore the SS flange larger to accommodate.

Also, I made a jig to ensure perfect positioning of the CAT Flange when using the Taller 236mm 2L Block.

This was my first go at SS Tig welding, and even though I back-purged everything, the results could be better... I learned a lot though.

I also, added EGT ports in case I decide to add CANEgt to Megasquirt3x.


*Boring the Flange*




*Used the 16v head and unmodified header to make the mount Jig*


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Mocking up and cutting bends*


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

*Welded* As mentioned this was my first Stainless Tig project, so room for improvement. I also cleaned up the pipe bends welds. Gotten much better on SS since then.


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## ticketed2much (Feb 18, 2012)

sdezego said:


> *Welded* As mentioned this was my first Stainless Tig project, so room for improvement. I also cleaned up the pipe bends welds. Gotten much better on SS since then.



That looks good! Impressive project.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

sdezego said:


> It turns out that the Ex side of the head on the 16v is 90* to the head gasket, whereas the 20v is sloped inward 15%.


And the spacing of the ports are different.
Regardless :thumbup::thumbup: to you!
Have not posted in a long time so it was refreshing to come back and see the OG still at it.


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## JamesS (Nov 18, 2008)

Glad to see progression on this, very impressive machining and fabrication. :thumbup:


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks Guys. I cleared out of a bunch of other projects and stuff on my plate and am working on the Harnesses connections through the firewall to Megasquirt. Got some nice Delphi 47 Pin Circular connectors and pins which are super nice! 

The To Do list is getting smaller and I have had some time here and there til the new year, so trying to get some things knocked off.

I also picked up some refinished Borbet Type C's in much harder to find 17x7.5 while I was at FixxFest. These are one of my single piece favorites. If I am not happy with the CH's I refinished, then these will go on for sure. Originally, I picked up and had planned on going to the VR front fenders since I am going with the plus suspension, but decided against it.


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## colombia00vr6 (Oct 6, 2004)

:thumbup:opcorn::thumbup:



sdezego said:


> *FRONTS:*
> 
> *Spacer I needed to Fabricate.*
> 
> ...


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

> Also, if it is not evident from the picture, the Front struts I used were:
> 
> Koni (8610 1436Race)
> 
> I think they sell for about $210 each, but since I was searching so much around for them, one day the good ole amazon pop up came up with SALE: $164 each, so I jumped on it.


To re-iterate from pics above, you will require to mod the ID of the top hat and make a spacer for the bottom.

For the rear, I used the 8041-1108SPORT. This requires you hack the lower eye mount off, but are direct fit otherwise.


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## extremy (Dec 5, 2005)

So glad you're still working on this. There's some really nice fab work in here!!


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## schnelle autos (Apr 26, 2011)

Nice work bro, keep it up looking spectacular. 

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## fabil (Sep 8, 2008)

Hi Sdezego

Do you know if AEB (058 block) IM shaft fits in older PL 1.8 block ?

thanks


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

fabil said:


> Hi Sdezego
> 
> Do you know if AEB (058 block) IM shaft fits in older PL 1.8 block ?
> 
> thanks


The Journal size are the same on all 058 Shafts, but in this case, I believe the gear is different than the PL if I recall. I know the part number is different for the AEB IM shaft (058115017A). Perhaps if you use the entire AEB setup (oil pump drive gear, etc) it would work?

I know the IM gears are the same. I run the 9a 2L setup in this motor, but need the clearance for the 2L crank.


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

extremy said:


> So glad you're still working on this. There's some really nice fab work in here!!


exactly 10 days after that last post (Jan 13), I had an extremely bad (freak) accident to my hand in my shop. 7 months later and my hand is still only about 65% operational and need at least another Surgery (coming soon) and then a minimum of 3 months of Physical Therapy after that..

Setbacks after setbacks, but as I have said before, paying jobs take precedence and I am still driving my Corrado.

Before the Accident I was preparing to tie up some small loose ends and finally make the swap in... Now, projected to be Dec, pending next surgery and recovery... Looks like this truly will be a 2020 project


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## fabil (Sep 8, 2008)

sdezego said:


> The Journal size are the same on all 058 Shafts, but in this case, I believe the gear is different than the PL if I recall. I know the part number is different for the AEB IM shaft (058115017A). Perhaps if you use the entire AEB setup (oil pump drive gear, etc) it would work?
> 
> I know the IM gears are the same. I run the 9a 2L setup in this motor, but need the clearance for the 2L crank.


Thanks, the AEB IM shaft worked perfectly, its for 16v conversion.


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## Klemantine (Sep 16, 2019)

Suddenly my new flat head screwdriver doesn't seem as nice
Nice find there


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

How’s the hand doing? Did you have Aflac?










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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Making do with it and adapting. Really not trilled with the idea of going back under the knife to start the process over, so just letting time lapse and see of things improve. Long road for sure

No AFLAC, but sure would be nice... Luckily my day job has great flexibility. If I had to depend on the right hand to put food on the table, things would have been a whole lot worse!


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## G60 Syncro (Jul 3, 2020)

What's with this impressive project?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Still driving it on 8v G60 and literally just got back from a drive.

The Transplant will Finally happen this year (yes.. 2020) LOL. It has to... Wiring Harness and a couple of small odds and ends are the only ToDos and have been underway.


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## lowburb (May 14, 2005)

Did you get the engine installed?


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## sdezego (Apr 23, 2004)

Sadly not yet and the post above is still accurate. Still driving. Swapped rear to 5 lug, Coil Overs, etc in prep, but need to have time to do the actual drive train swap. Close to finishing wiring. Was hoping over the holidays this year, but I need to get my CNC plasma table online and operational...

Too many customer projects (02m Mounts, 02Q and now DSG), other vehicles maintenance, house projects, work and life events taking priority.

2 months after post above, our company was acquired, so new role new position and a lot responsibility.

I'll post some update pics though.. Longest project ever


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## petethepug (May 25, 2001)

Congrats on having your hobby, side project, investment, start up recent acquisition getting some nice traction. Good timing so you can swap the tools for a pencil more often.


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## corrado-correr (Jul 8, 2004)

sdezego said:


> Sadly not yet and the post above is still accurate. Still driving. Swapped rear to 5 lug, Coil Overs, etc in prep, but need to have time to do the actual drive train swap. Close to finishing wiring. Was hoping over the holidays this year, but I need to get my CNC plasma table online and operational...
> 
> Too many customer projects (02m Mounts, 02Q and now DSG), other vehicles maintenance, house projects, work and life events taking priority.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a good thing.



petethepug said:


> Congrats on having your hobby, side project, investment, start up recent acquisition getting some nice traction. Good timing so you can swap the tools for a pencil more often.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Like he said, Congrats!


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## izcorrado18 (Aug 21, 2005)

sdezego said:


> Sadly not yet and the post above is still accurate. Still driving. Swapped rear to 5 lug, Coil Overs, etc in prep, but need to have time to do the actual drive train swap. Close to finishing wiring. Was hoping over the holidays this year, but I need to get my CNC plasma table online and operational...
> 
> Too many customer projects (02m Mounts, 02Q and now DSG), other vehicles maintenance, house projects, work and life events taking priority.
> 
> ...


I might request some CNC work. We've been going at this 1.8T for a while but it is well worth it.


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