# Ferodo ds2500, noisey



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

I have these pads on my gti, in 4 piston Porsche calipers. And wow, they squeal so badly. Mostly with light pressure to the pedal. I had previously read that they were quiet.
I put some good heat into them when I first got them, and they still do it. Are they not bedded right? any suggestions is great


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## 91gti_wolfsburg (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: Ferodo ds2500, noisey (Danno13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Danno13* »_I have these pads on my gti, in 4 piston Porsche calipers. And wow, they squeal so badly. Mostly with light pressure to the pedal. I had previously read that they were quiet.
I put some good heat into them when I first got them, and they still do it. Are they not bedded right? any suggestions is great

DS2500's are noisy, but there is no better brake pad on the planet. The hotter you get them, the better they will work.
The auto parts store sells some anti squeak grease that you can put on the back side of the pads to lubricate them between the pistons. 
Ive never used it, I guess the squealing never bothered me that much.
They should quiet down as they wear.


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## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

it was suggested to chamfer the edges of the pads. 
This squeal it louder than anything I've ever heard. You can hear from far far away


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## 91gti_wolfsburg (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (Danno13)*

I never minded the squeal.
It makes people look @ your brakes. "Oh, look at that guy's porsche calipers, arent they pretty."


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: (91gti_wolfsburg)*

Do your calipers have anti-rattle clips?
With the clips installed on my AP Racing calipers the DS2500's are quiet.


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## VWn00b (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: (greyhare)*

DS2500 are going to make noise. Period.
Live with the noise or change to a different pad.


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## RABIDRABBIT1983 (May 13, 2003)

*Re: (VWn00b)*

i had them on my 03 mk4 gti. They were not to noisey. Try chamfering the end of the pad that helps a ton on any pad.
They are my all time favorite pad for street/weekend racer! Awesome cold bite, and they get better with heat.
looking for some for my 07 mk5 right now


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## 91gti_wolfsburg (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (RABIDRABBIT1983)*

I was never really impressed with their cold bite. But then again, my "cold" is about 50 degrees cooler than NV cold.
After they get up to temp, the bite is epic.


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## RABIDRABBIT1983 (May 13, 2003)

*Re: (91gti_wolfsburg)*

what pads do you like for cold bite?


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## enginerd (Dec 15, 2001)

*Re: (RABIDRABBIT1983)*

Hawk HP+, or HPS have better cold bite. Noise is better than the ferrodo. 
DS2500's, and HP+ are not that good for heavy track use. 
DS3000's, and hawk blues, or HT10's are better. All make lot's of noise.


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Ferodo ds2500, noisey (91gti_wolfsburg)*

If you broke them in properly they will not make too much noise, little bit is normal on the street.
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient. 
or really you should use the race bed in procedure:
For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.
We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.
After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications. dure:

_Modified by AZV6 at 4:11 PM 9-12-2008_

_Modified by AZV6 at 4:39 PM 9-12-2008_


_Modified by AZV6 at 4:40 PM 9-12-2008_


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## 91gti_wolfsburg (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (RABIDRABBIT1983)*


_Quote, originally posted by *RABIDRABBIT1983* »_what pads do you like for cold bite?

It will sound stupid, but I like PBR Organics for "cold bite." 
I got enough caliper to overcome any fade, (they [the PBR's] arent the best for lots of abuse like the DS-2500's are) 
I run my car until the salt flies so It gets pretty cold before I stop using it
Plus, I have Girling 60's, not 54's. Ferodo DS-2500's arent available for my calipers any more.
I used to have G-54's and I used Ferodo's with them. I liked them better than the PBR's. 
If I cant have the Ferodo, I would take the PBR Delucxe organics.


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## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

My bedding process wasnt as long as what was suggested above. Have I missed my chance? Or can I still go out and get good amount of heat in the pads, to bed them properly?


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## 91gti_wolfsburg (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: (Danno13)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Danno13* »_My bedding process wasnt as long as what was suggested above. Have I missed my chance? Or can I still go out and get good amount of heat in the pads, to bed them properly?


I dont think so, depends how many miles you have on them.
I would go out on the highway and hold the brake gently, and step on the gas hold about 70MPH, for 10 seconds, let them cool for a few miles, and repeat a few times.
That'll heat cycle them a few times. Should help.


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## AZV6 (May 3, 2006)

*Re: (Danno13)*

No, start over and do it again.
As long as they have not glazed you should be fine.
I would take some time to do it right, if not your in for a mess.
As for a cold bite pad. Honestly Rotex is making a really great pad. Low cost as they are not as hyped as the others but I guarantee they will perform as good or better than the big name.
I sell a lot of them to my Alfa customers (no I do not sell VW parts) and they are fantastic. I use them on my VW as well. Better than the rest IMO.
I buy mine direct but I would recommend Brakewarehouse.com for them,
Jason


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