# Yet another engine build/ rebuild thread... mk4 AEG



## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

Being that this is my first engine build/ rebuild I've ever done, I have a friend who works on them (BMW's mainly) to help me out in the assembly. I'm fully capable of putting it together(but correctly?) but there are things I've never done before like using Plastigage and gapping the rings and want to do it right the first time.
Any helpful advice is more than welcome in this and I'm certain that there are things I'll forget. Besides, nothing wrong with an extra set of eyes and brains to look over what I'm doing. This will be somewhat of a slow build, completion to be in about a month, as I have to go over to my parents house to work on everything. 
The motor is the original AEG bottom end that I pulled out of my car 3 years ago due to excessive oil consumption and replaced with another AEG top and bottom end I purchased from a friend for $50. When pulled it had roughly ~161k miles. 

I don't have any power goal with this motor so the rebuild is stock for the most part with exception to a few items below.
83mm Wiseco pistons which bumped the compression to 10.5:1. Picked these up on Ebay for *$59 SHIPPED* with rings and pins!!!!








Head will be decked ~.020"-.030" (already cleaned once which had a .005" deck) to bump the compression just a bit more. 
Adjustable cam gear to compensate for the TDC change after decking the head
Autotech 270* cam
Heavy-duty dual valve springs
Hopefully all new ARP bolts
A LOT of parts on it will be replaced with new OEM quality pieces since I want a long lasting motor.. and I'm getting a hell of a deal on the parts







By the time this motor is ready for install I'll have 2 nearly complete motors (top/bottom ends with other pieces) and so I can make the change over a fast since I only have one car. Once I have all the pieces purchased, I'll post what I have and the part number as referance for those wondering all that it takes. 
As I work on the reassembly I'll try to post up clearance and torque specs I'm working with so people have a future reference, since not everybody has a Bentley(banish those who don't!! haha).
I just picked up the block from the machine shop for being hot tanked and bored over, the crank being polished (was in very good condition) and pistons/rods balanced. I'll take pics of those once I get the block on the stand and everything laid out.
Once I get the block back I do plan on painting it since it's the optimal time to do so., 
So for right now I give you some disassembly pictures for your enjoyment.
Just starting the tear down.
















Timing gear/ cover plate removed, now for the oil pump tensioner and chain.








Quick note about removing the timing gear. I put a piece of wood between the crank and the block to lock it in place and them used my jack handle (about 3' long) as the braker bar to get the crank bolt off. That thing is TIGHT! Upon removal I still managed to lift the corner of the engine stand off the ground upon initial loosening. Yes I have an impact wrench but the air tank was empty and in the barn and I was impatient, hah.









Piston #1, can we say DIRTY?! I have all the pistons numbered for the holes they came out of right now. I'm going to check them later due to the rumor that the oil rings were stamped and installed upside down on the early AEG's.
























I love crank

























And the finished block ready to be sent out for machine work








Crank ready to be sent out








Hmm.... for some reason this looks nothing like all the other mk4 oil pans out there.... It's not a hybrid pan nor does it have the large circular recess in the bottom of it... is it a mk3 oil pan?








_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 8:38 PM 2-26-2009_


_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 12:23 AM 3-27-2009_


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Cool stuff dude, looks like a nice build up, hadn't heard anything from you in a bit.
Your oil pan looks like mine though.


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## nab5126 (Dec 4, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

thats different than mine, but looks good, pretty high comp. Worried about hittin valves to pistons?


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## br0kestatus (Jun 27, 2008)

was there any out of round or taper on the main journals? out of couriousity


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (br0kestatus)*

Ok, so I got the block now back from the machine shop, pics to come this weekend. 
As for worry about hitting the pistons to the valves after decking, I'm honestly not too concerned. I've heard of people decking the heads to upwards of .060-.080" and it working.








The amount that I plan on taking off is about common from what people have done for this head style.
From what I was told there was no issues with the journals. 
The only issue that I know of was with the cylinder bore, the top 1/2"-3/4" didn't fully clean up. I was told that this shouldn't be an issue as it's commonly seen with higher mileage motors. He said that if the holes were bored another .010" more they would have completely cleaned up. I guess I'll find out once I get the motor assembled.
This weekend I plan to get the engine mounted and all painted.


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## br0kestatus (Jun 27, 2008)

good luck with the build i'm a student at uti, and i was just learning about all the measurements and this caught my interest. I will be following this closely.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (br0kestatus)*

Alrighty, so I wasn't able to make it over to my parents this weekend to work on my motor. I scoured around town for the POR-15 engine enamel kit and it seems nobody has it. Guess I'll just have to order it online unless I can find someone around here to get it.
I'll be placing an order for my first load of parts this week in hopes that this coming weekend I can throw the crankshaft in the block and get some good progress going. 
Something else I'll be doing to the motor is a mild/ light cleanup of the ports. Figure while I have the head off and such, I may as well see if I can smooth out the inlet side ya know?
I'll get some pics of the block this week and post them up.


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## triple5soul (Nov 30, 2006)

ahh yes they did teach us all the measurments at UTI lol looks like a nice build


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## CameraJen (Feb 17, 2007)

*Re: (triple5soul)*

way to go, bro. nice pics. mom take them? I think you need a new camera, too!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (CameraJen)*

So for this build I'm going to be using the spare 8v head that I have laying around that I'll be doing some porting and polishing to while I have the time and then have it decked about .030" or maybe more.

I've been reading through my Bentley and it states that the distance from the bottom of the cylinder head to the valvecover surface is to be no less than 132.6mm (5.22in). Now the head that I have has been decked once that I know of just to clean it up after it was tanked. I just measured that distance on the head I have and I got 5.235" which means I can supposedly take only .015" more before, according to the Bentley, is out of VW spec.
I'm thinking that the number in the Bentley is not the real spec(just a very conservative one) which when passed would make the valves kiss the pistons. 
Can anybody verify this with another head that's been decked about .040" to see what that measurement is?








After I get all the work done to the head (decked, P&P) I plan on checking the volume in the CC just for personal knowledge and checking the real compression ratio.


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## Geebies100 (Jun 5, 2007)

*Re: Yet another engine build/ rebuild thread... mk4 AEG (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

this build is going to be pure unbridled awesomeness.


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_I'm thinking that the number in the Bentley is not the real spec(just a very conservative one) which when passed would make the valves kiss the pistons. 

Keep in mind that this figure also assumes you're running the stock cam. You're going to need to take into account the increase in lift the Autotech 270º cam will provide.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (doodpod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *doodpod* »_
Keep in mind that this figure also assumes you're running the stock cam. You're going to need to take into account the increase in lift the Autotech 270º cam will provide.










Good point!
I can honestly say that didn't click in my head but is something to consider.
The Bentley doesn't say anything about the amount of cam LIFT, only duration points of the lift. After some searching(here on Vortex) it seems the max lift for the OBDII cams is .417" where as according to the Autotech website the 270* cam has .449" lift. That right there being .032" (theoretically) puts it scary close (well, kinda) to the minimal clearance. 
But if you think about it, between those two cams is only .032" but people have taken .040" off when the head was decked. 
So assume that my head started out with a thickness dime of 5. 240" (.005" to flatten it). With merely changing cams and the difference being .032, that would *theoretically* leave the distance to be no more than 5.208" right? Does that mean merely changing cams would make the valves kiss the pistons? Obviously not because I had my head tanked and lightly decked for the 270* cam and everything works for about a year and I would have known if it didn't work right after startup....

Anybody got any other opinions? Thoughts? Pictures of their head dimensions? 
Can Travis, the holy master of all 2.o cam gods, please chime in with some knowledge?








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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

uh...lets see. So you are going with 10.5:1 dished (not castle) pistons and ending up with a shaved head in the (total past/present) .035-.040" range, correct? Thats going to leave you w/ a static compression figure well past 11:1. Let me just say this: Do yourself a favor and measure your piston dish volume and combustion chamber volume WHILE THE HEAD IS OFF so you know _for a fact_ what your true compression ratio will be. This little number will go a long way in the future when planning for other things. 
As for valve-piston contact, an Autotech 270* will have a total valve lift (with oil pressure in the lifters) of 0.052" on the intake side and 0.051" on the exhaust side at TDC at a 1mm checking height. That, in and of itself, is NOT a large amount and i wouldn't worry about it unless you really ****ed up your timing or jumped a tooth. 
My head has 40 though shaved off and I've run a 288* cam with a lift value of .460" ran at over 4* retarded/advanced with no valve/piston contact.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

Sweeet, thanks for the knowledge Travis!
So it looks like my plan for the weekend is to measure the CC volume. I already have the volume of the dish from the spec sheet (I believe) so that should help me out. 
I've been using many compression ratio calculators I've found such as: http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/...shtml to give myself an idea of what I'll be ending up with at the end. That calculator is the most complete one I seen to have found so far online, for as far as including variables.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Alrighty now.... did a bit of work today but pictures will come in another post. 

I did find the volume of the head CC and that came out to be between 31-32cc. I did that multiple times and since the head won't be decked for a while, I'll probably still do it yet again. 
Since I had my die grinders and some sanding cones handy did some polishing work of the intake ports to smooth out the casting lines and the overall rough surface finish. Only got about half way down the intake ports since I just wanted to try it some but it came out a hell of a lot smoother, and faster than I was expecting. I'll post pictures to the results of what I did later. 
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the pictures uploaded.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Piktur3 time!!!
Here's one from the work I did Saturday and finding the volume of the CC (31-32cc).








Yes, that is the cover to a CD case that I drilled a hole in to use. I couldn't find my plastic and as determined as I was to do it, that was the first thing to come to mind. I used clear gel (hair gel actually) to provide the seal between the surfaces.
The only 2 pics I took of the head when I was cleaning up the intake ports. I only went so far down cleaning up the sides because I wanted to read up further before I really started hogging material away that couldn't easily be put back. 

















Then here's my nice and clean/ bored over block ready for building on:

































Once again, I love crank......

















So yesterday a nice order of parts came in for the rebuild... over $200 worth of parts awaiting to be attached to the block and head. I'll post up what all I got in there later.









On the last note, yesterday the new speed sensor ring came in. According to the Bentley, it must be replaced whenever it's removed from the crank due to the countersink dimension stretching for the holes. I took the part into the dealership to make sure I special ordered the right one but it seems the part number is different now and no note of the change in the computer. My old ring # is *050 105 189 C* where as the new one ends with a *B*. Here's the difference from the old to the new:

















I'd imagine there wouldn't be any issues since the dealership computer said the new one is for the AEG, despite the minor change.... Just hope it works!


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Is the new one lighter? You can add that to your mods list. lol


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## CameraJen (Feb 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

Way to go, bro. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (CameraJen)*

what did you end up spending on the timing ring?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_what did you end up spending on the timing ring?

Timing ring was $50.08

3 bolts to hold it on was $4.86 ($1.62/ each)
The Bentley said each are to be replaced once removed so I figure why not. I've talked to another friend and he says they can be reused. I'm just taking precautions, don't really wanna change it once the motor is back together


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Alright peoples, did a bit more work over the weekend with pictures to come later. 
I took my box of parts to my parents in hopes to have a bit accomplished while I was there but I forgot to bring my Bentley manual along with. With no manual I was pretty much SOL for any torque specs and Plastigage gapping info. Since I did have the internet I did some searching around. I wasn't able to find the gapping info but I did stumble upon an amazing page for rod/ main and head bolt torque specs. http://www.aera.org/downloads/Torque3.pdf . 
That page has torque specs for semi trucks, trucks, cars AND TRACTORS! Who'd a thunk it eh? Either way, some very resourceful info for torque specs for engines.
Since I didn't have my Bentley with me, I was only left to finding the gap info for the main bearings (didn't have rod bearings just yet). 
After following the Plastigage instructions and about 30 minutes later we had results.. but partially skewed ones. While trying to remove bearing cap #1 I accidentally bumped the crank, barely, but enough that I'll double check it next weekend for piece of mind. According to the Plastigage the gap for all 5 main bearings came out to be between 0.051-0.076mm, but closer to the 0.051mm mark. I have pictures I'll show later. 
In the manual it states that the main bearing radial clearance (Plastigage) is as follows:
New Parts:
-Gasoline Engines..................... 0.01-0.04 mm (.0004-.0016 in.)
-Diesel Engines......................... 0.03-0.08 mm (.0012-.0031 in.)
Wear Limit:
-Gasoline Engines..................... 0.15 mm (.0059 in.)
-Diesel Engines......................... 0.17 mm (.0067 in.)
So I guess it's nice to know that since my crank only had to be polished and with nominal sized main bearings, I'm just over what the gap should be for new parts. I'm also not even half way towards the wear limit to require different sized bearings.
Since I did barely bump the crank, which might have smeared the Plastigage, I will be rechecking them this coming weekend again when I really do a final install on the crank. 

On another note, I noticed that the thrust washers are different than the ones that came with my motor. Seems I have 4 now where as before I had only 2 (pics to come later). The old thrust washers have part number "026 635 A" (VW/Audi stamped on them) and the new ones are by Kolbenschmidt # 026 198 421. Any idea what the difference is for getting 4 washers when I had 2 before?
So there's a good update for all that I found over the weekend. I'll post pics as soon as I get them off the camera.

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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Well, another weekend of work on the motor has been done now.

Now in some fashionable way, all these parts will be bolted to the motor to make it work once again.

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As I had commented before in my last update about the thrust washers, this is what I was referring to. In the following pictures you can see the difference between the older style washer and the newer ones. It's interesting that VW went to washers that go all the way around the crank as opposed to just one per side like before.









How far around the crank the older washers went visible by the burnt oil marks.
















I wasn't able to do as much as I had hoped due to a few small complications. What work I did do was: 
Recheck the main bearing clearances
Install speed sensor wheel
Install/ gap a few rings on the pistons 
Install thrust washers
Port/polish the head more
Speed sensor wheel installed on the crank. Something I wanted to note about when I was torquing the bolts for this. According to the Bentley they noted to replace the wheel and bolts every time they're removed to due them stretching and the chamfer is so close that once the bolts are torqued it expands. If it isn't replaced (the wheel) there wouldn't be enough contact between the bolts and the wheel and it wouldn't fully seat. 
These bolts are torqued to 10Nm (7 ft/lb) +1/4 turn (90*). It's actually in that last part of the 1/4 turn that you can feel something stretching. I've done head bolts and other stretch bolts but I can definitely feel more than just the bolt stretching when I torqued them down.








Here we installed the thrust washers prior to tightening the bearing caps. The grey stuff is the assembly lube.
















After rechecking the main bearing clearances, we got a definite .076mm with the Plastigage. Even though we're using new parts for the rebuild we technically should get better but the crank was only polished as opposed to being reground. Here's a picture of what we got before we double checked them.








Once we got all that checked and the thrust washers installed, we checked the backlash from the new thrust washers. According to our tests we got no more than 0.0055". Thrust washer axial play was checked prior to torquing the main bolts and after to see what kind of difference there was. Once the main bolts were torqued, we got roughly .0025"
Specs for thrust washers are as follows:
New Parts
-Gasoline Engines..................... 0.07-0.23 mm (.0028-.0091 in)
-Diesel Engines......................... 0.07-0.17 mm (.0028-.0067 in)
Wear Limits
-Gasoline Engines..................... 0.30 mm (.0118 in)
-Diesel Engines......................... 0.37 mm (.0146 in)
Quick note on using the test indicator. Cosine error was virtually eliminated with how flat the indicator tip was set up. It moved so little I'm not concerned with the reading as I'm also well within the wear limits.

















After we verified everything was within' spec and double checked, we torqued down the main bolts.
Main bolt torque: 65 Nm (48 ft/lb) + 1/4 turn (90*)

Next step was to start gapping the rings. The rings with these pistons are the Wiseco 8300xx. Ring gap was found from this: http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Manuals/RingEndGap.pdf
According to the math, our top ring should be around 0.0167", the 2nd ring about 0.0179" and the oil scraper to be at least 0.010".
My friend filing down a few thou on a file









All I can say is that this way sucks! You would not believe how hard those rings are! We didn't have a diamond file this time but I sure will next time when we finish it.








As we looked at all the rings we noticed that one ring for the oil scraper had a tad bit of rust on it (this piston set was made over 4 years ago). We scraped it off bit upon much closer inspection the very edge of the ring had a very tiny pit on it from the rust. My friend looked at it more and said he would get a new set of rings because who knows what that tiny pit may do to the cylinder wall over time, a precautionary measure you could say. I agreed and now I need to order another set. Oh well, it's a cheap fix now as opposed to later right?








New pistons with some rings installed









Order spec sheet from pistons









So that ended one of the days of work assembling my motor. As it stands right now I need to order another set of rings and then gap them all and then I can check the clearances on the rod bearings. Hopefully I'll have another set of rings by the end of the week so I can finish assembling the bottom end this coming weekend. 
The next day I did some port work on the exhaust side of the head. I'm really opening the ports up but I'm not going any bigger than the gasket opening. Actually, the opening on the head will be smaller than the gasket to help ensure pressure differences between it and the manifold. Right now I mainly just want to open the exhaust side a lot since it has the room (I'll post gasket comparison pics this weekend). After I finish opening the exhaust mouth I'll work around the valve guides after I press those out since I have new ones. 
Here some pics for how much the exhaust side can be opened:








Closer comparison:








Just about finished opening it up, only need to polish the walls now:









So there you have it, a weekend of work closer to finishing my motor.










_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 3:26 PM 3-30-2009_


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

This thread is great - one of the first in-depth AEG builds I've seen.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (doodpod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *doodpod* »_This thread is great - one of the first in-depth AEG builds I've seen.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif









Thanks!








I figured I'd try to post a lot of the technical information that you can only find in the Bentley in the thread. I know not everybody has one and granted if you're this in depth in the motor you should have one, but it's a great reference at least.

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On another note, I got my Autotech peg vernier adjustable cam gear in the mail today. It's interesting how this one will work with the sensor ring or trigger wheel for the cam position sensor, can't wait to bolt it all up.
With all the head work that I'm doing, I'm actually thinking about going with a TT 276* cam instead of my AT 270*. I mean, with all the work I'm doing, see if I can squeeze a little more fun out of my engine ya know?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So I did some more work on the port and polishing of the head. I'm starting to really get into it and have some fun here cause it's just labor right? At work I deburr the parts I make and 1 of the 3 parts I do make takes roughly 1.5-2hrs to deburr. Of course that's taking my time and making it look perfect, so I'm use to working with aluminum.
Anyways, I spent about 2.5hrs on the head today porting the mouths to the 2 remaining exhaust ports. In the following picture you can see how the stock exhaust ports compare to the two ports I've already had some fun with. I also wanted to show how much I'm removing in relation to the gasket which is up to is the red line, smaller than the gasket opening. 









In these next few pictures you can see how much I've been able to smooth out the ports for the intake and exhaust. I still have a ways to go before I'm truly happy with how polished they will be. 

















This is the end result after todays work for the exhaust side of the head, all ports are close to the same size, not done yet though.








As I was polishing around where the valve guides were, after I pressed 4 of them out, I done make a boo boo. I entered in through the combustion chamber to polish the bowl with my sanding bits and well, the bit caught the edge of where the guide was and the back end of my sanding bit kissed the valve seat a little on a corner. It's not BAD but I'm going to do a few things to see how bad it really is.








Worse comes to worse, I have a new seat installed. Then again, I told my dad what happened and he said "Put some oversize valves in." I was shocked he said that. This is coming from a guy who always puts OEM parts on his car, drives a Chevy Metro for his 5 mile commute to work and does the speed limit everywhere. Now here he's suggesting I put something it to give my car more power... I like! I told him he never should have suggested it to me cause now I'll want to. So much for a stock-ish rebuild right?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So thinking about the potential for bigger valves got me thinking and then I realized a problem.... the fact I began thinking. I LOVE to wonder about different possibilities for this motor right now since my only cost is parts(I won't charge myself labor because even then I couldn't afford myself).
I don't think I'd go with oversize valves for the simple fact that finding new valve seats and getting bigger valves and having the seats installed might be a royal PITA. Though as I looked at the cost difference between high flow +1 valves and high flow stock valves I got an idea (where it all goes down hill). Why not replace my valves with high flow Supertech's? They're only $17 each ( http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ ) and it's mighty tempting! To think, all because my dad suggested bigger valves... not sure if I should say damn him or maybe thank him..... hmm

Anyways, I'm not stuck at the potential for high flowing valves for $136+shipping for all 8 or stay stock... any input or thoughts or concerns?

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I'd kinda get it for the cool factor and to squeeze a few more ponies out of my engine while I'm at it.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Did some more polishing and whatnot on the head today. Still have a long way to go but so far the the intakes are about done. I'm not too sure how much I really want to mess with the intake side as I'd like to keep the port air velocity maximized. So for right now, until I read more on port, I'm just polishing the intake side and smoothing out the runners as much as I can, but removing minor bumps in them. Total work today, 2hrs. Last pictures were after 2.5hrs work.

























On the exhaust side I just polished what I have done already. I did do some major porting on the exhaust manifold though. I don't have any pictures to what it looks like stock but I got rid or a huge weld lump on the inside of the runners. I'll take pictures to compare what mine is to what it looked like before hand when I swap motors. I do have a picture comparison to the gasket right now but I couldn't get it to lay flat so it's not the best comparison.


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## Row2wiN (Aug 24, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

looks tight man, you are on the right path. keep up the good work, it is a pita to rebuild motors....and ps, you should totally go big turbo hahahah


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Row2wiN)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Row2wiN* »_looks tight man, you are on the right path. keep up the good work, it is a pita to rebuild motors....and ps, you should totally go big turbo hahahah


Thanks!








It's a slow path I can assure you.. kinda like the motor that's it my car, hah!
I'll pass on the turbo

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There's just something about all motor that I just love... like no lag when you stomp on the go pedal








So as I've been bored at work I can't help but research more about parts to throw in this. I mean, the whole thing is in pieces so any upgrades would be easily thrown in. I'm most likely going to get the Supertech valves through Import Performance Parts since they're $17/each and cheaper than any other place I've found. Guess I never should have thought this would be a simple stock rebuild.... should have known better, haha. 
I will not do oversize valves just cause I can't afford/ justify the added cost in replacing all the valve seats. Yes it would be fun for added power and whatnot but if I at least throw higher flowing valves I'll be happier, hah.








Since I'll have a much MUCH higher flowing and powerful motor than my semi stock one, I'll need some software to accommodate it. It's between GIAC, Upsolute and Unitronic. Doubtful on Unitronic due to the problems Jay-Bee is having. Why support a company that won't resolve a 10 month old problem ya know? So I guess you could say the search for a good chip is now as well involved.

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I'll try to update this later today as I plan to gap some rings and hopefully bore my exhaust manifold more.










_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 10:59 AM 3-28-2009_


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_Since I'll have a much MUCH higher flowing and powerful motor than my semi stock one, I'll need some software to accommodate it. It's between GIAC, Upsolute and Unitronic. Doubtful on Unitronic due to the problems Jay-Bee is having. Why support a company that won't resolve a 10 month old problem ya know? So I guess you could say the search for a good chip is now as well involved.

What about the C2 NA software? They apparently need an AEG/DBC test machine. Could be worth investigating . . .


----------



## ducatipaso (Apr 13, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (doodpod)*

brian, looking really good. keep it up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *doodpod* »_
What about the C2 NA software? They apparently need an AEG/DBC test machine. Could be worth investigating . . .


I was the first AEG that Unitronic took on, i'll update you when (and IF) they ever get me fixed up without a CEL/ROM error. But it is a very good performaing and quite aggresive tune for a pretty much stock setup (intake is my only other upgrade)
The C2/BFI chip is looking very promising, I've talked to [email protected] about it...he needs to test one out, IM him, he might give you a deal







(I don't want to start any price rumors lol)


_Modified by Jay-Bee at 4:02 PM 3-28-2009_


----------



## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_The C2/BFI chip is looking very promising, I've talked to [email protected] about it...he needs to test one out, IM him, he might give you a deal







(I don't want to start any price rumors lol)

I mentioned that I might be willing to be a test mule for them in the BFI MkIII thread, but no response. IMs never seem to work for me here; I use Safari and it doesn't seem to matter whether I have pop-ups blocked or unblocked. But I have hopes that maybe something will come through eventually; maybe I should email C2? I have been running 93 octane the last couple tanks in hopes of getting all the old 87 cleared out of the system.


----------



## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (doodpod)*

As far as C2 with their software, I did PM Jeff about it a while back when I saw that they wanted someone for it. I was told that they wanted someone local to them and I'm on the left coast. That kinda blows for me, otherwise I'd be more than happy to be a guinea pig for their software.
With whatever software I go with I might need to have it custom matched to my parts right? I don't think any generic program would work with mine, aside from the ECU adapting to everything. But right now that's in the back of my mind so it'll cost so much and I just want to get my engine done and in my car. 
So I messed around with porting my exhaust manifold more today. I only spent about 45min on though cause it's cold in the shop where the air compressor is right now. Maybe tomorrow I'll work more on it, I dunno.
Here some pics for how it looks as of now... damn metal never wants to sit flat for a good comparison. 

















Aside from the porting work, I was able to finish gapping the rings... but still waiting on the last set I ordered to come FedEx. To think, I paid twice the amount in shipping to have it here yesterday and it still isn't here, ugh! If I had that here I could then check rod clearances and maybe start bolting up the bottom end.... but noooooooooooooooooooo, FedEx has to take their sweet time.









I might go back over and do some port work tomorrow possibly if I can get a set of small carbide grinding bits. Otherwise I'd just port the exhaust more but I'm almost done with that.









But maybe tomorrow I'll take it easy since school starts Monday and I have classes 4 days a week. Who knows.. I'll probably just surf the net and compile my list of new parts to purchase.


----------



## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Well, got my new set of rings in the mail today. They ended up being drop shipped from Wiseco. Interesting that my receipt from Race Engineering (out of Florida) says to be shipped FedEx yet they were shipped UPS, hmm. Oh well, I have my rings and I'm happy. Guess this weekend I'll be doing the final gapping on them and throwing them, err, carefully installing them in my motor to do the rod bearing gapping. 

Hopefully this week I'll as well order some Supertech valves. Figure I might as well while I have the head off, that and a few of the valves look suspicious. Though with the new valves I'll have to email Supertech to get the volume of the dish in them since the stock valves are flat faced and these have a dish to them so I can calculate how much the combustion chamber volume will change.
On another different note, on the Import Performance Parts web site ( http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ ) they sell various thickness copper head gaskets by Hussey. Seem you can get anywhere from .031-.125 for $88-$120. Just need to call and specify what motor you have. Kind of interesting and a viable option if you want to change your compression w/o having to have your head decked. Tempting but I already have a head gasket sitting around that I'll be using for this motor.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

I was directed to this thread and I wanted to give a http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the author as it is well executed,however...

_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_
On the last note, yesterday the new speed sensor ring came in. According to the Bentley, it must be replaced whenever it's removed from the crank due to the countersink dimension stretching for the holes. I took the part into the dealership to make sure I special ordered the right one but it seems the part number is different now and no note of the change in the computer. My old ring # is *050 105 189 C* where as the new one ends with a *B*. Here's the difference from the old to the new:

I am not saying the Bentley is wrong but replacing your impulse wheel is a bit excessive.You could have simply tapped the back of the impulse slightly with a hammer and used new OEM bolts.I have reused the impulse wheel on almost every build I have done and have not had an issue thus far.
Just thought I would comment on that.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Issam Abed* »_I am not saying the Bentley is wrong but replacing your impulse wheel is a bit excessive.You could have simply tapped the back of the impulse slightly with a hammer and used new OEM bolts.I have reused the impulse wheel on almost every build I have done and have not had an issue thus far.
Just thought I would comment on that.

This is very interesting and honestly, not a bad idea! I don't think I ever would have thought of it. I'll definitely remember that when I rebuild the other AEG I have that's currently in my car. 
I guess right now my best bet is to follow the book for rebuilding, it'll at least give me a sound baseline for what works to get my motor rebuilt. My friend that's helping me has rebuilt BMW motors (currently building a stroked and bored M3 turbo motor) and says the book is great for a first timer. Little tips and tricks will be learned as you do more, like what you posted... which is why I started this thread.








No new updates for today on the build.... well, I might try to order my valves before class tonight but I need to go pick up a few books for my other classes first. Maybe I'll go pick up some carbide bits for porting the head, I dunno.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So I got to working more on my engine this past weekend. I got my replacement rings in the mail and gapped them all, this time with a diamond file and it went sooooo much faster! I can;t remember off the top of my head what they were gapped to but I have it written down with my motor. 

Ran into a road block when we were putting the rod bearings in place. As my friend looked at them he noticed something rather odd about them. In the recess on the inside of the shell next to the groove it looked like the bearing was chipped. You can see in the pictures a comparison of the new ones to the old. The rod bearings are by Mahle, standard sized. There was no damage to the package that they came in so my friend thinks that they'll be fine but it's just weird, and I do agree as well. Until I get a definite answer on if the rod bearings are ok to use, all the rod bolts remain torqued to 22ft/lbs. We only have them bolted on so that the sets stay matched and we don't lose any nuts. 
In this picture you can see what I mean by the part that looks like it was chipped when compared to the old bearing shells. I do think they'll be ok but I don't tighten everything up and find out they're not.

















Yes I'm not the best with pictures, my mom and sis are the camera gurus.
Here are some pictures of what we were able to do, like checking the rod bearing clearances. All the specs we got are within' wear limit. 3 of the rods were inside the limit for new parts but the #4 rod was just outside of it. Weird that one rod stood out, oh well cause it's still good.
Here are the specs for rod bearing clearances:
New:
2.0L, 1.9L............................... 0.01-0.06 mm (0.0004-0.0024 in.)
1.8L, 2.0L ("cracked rod)........ 0.01-0.05 mm (0.0004-0.0020 in.)
Wear limit:
2.0L........................................ 0.12 mm (0.0047 in.)
1.9L........................................ 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)
1.8L, 2.0L ("cracked rod")....... 0.09 mm (0.0035 in.)
Axial (side) clearance
New
2.0L, 1.9L............................... 0.10-0.31 mm (0.0039-0.0122 in.)
2.0L ("cracked rod")............... 0.10-0.35 mm (0.0039-0.0138 in.)
1.8L........................................ 0.10-0.31 mm (0.0039-0.0122 in.)
Wear limit
2.0L, 1.9L ............................... 0.37 mm (0.0145 in.)
1.8L, 2.0L ("cracked rod")....... 0.40 mm (0.0157 in.)
Checking Torque 30 Nm (22 ft-lb)
Assembly Torque 30 Nm (22 ft-lb) plus 1/4 turn (90*)
Last view of the pistons after they got their rings:








Rod #1








Rod #4









Lubing up the shells with assembly lube
















Rod #3








Rod #2









All the pistons bolted into the motor
















Something I noticed about the pistons is that the relief cuts front to back are about flush with the motor but the protrusions that stick up from the crown (0.031" rise) are above the top of the block. I can't find any spec in the book for a gas motor but diesels are suppose to. This weekend I'll measure with my drop indicator what kind of clearance there actually is. I just can't remember, but I might have a picture of it, if any part of the piston rose above the block or not.

On another note I did another 1.5hrs of porting work on the head and exhaust. I just need to smooth out the exhaust ports and I'll be done. 
Final opening size of the exhaust ports








Here's a picture of the intake ports looking down the runners. The runner on the right I've only smoothed out where as the one on the left I've removed a bit more material. I don't want to remove a LOT of material, or any more than now, as I want to keep a good angle in there to keep the air velocity and force it to flow smoothly downwards. Basicly the one of the left is for the most part done and just needs a good final polish.








Another view ot the work looking downwards from the bottom








As you can tell I've worked the combustion chamber. Though I'd also like to note that I've been using scotchbrite (grey, very fine) pads to keep material removal minimal and merely smooth it out.
I'll be working on it more this weekend and should have the bearing issue resolved and possibly the bottom end all put back together. You can definitely bet I'll be doing more porting work. RIght now that'll be the hold up before I complete the motor.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Did a bit more porting work on my head yesterday. Only spent another hour and a half and I want to say that the 3 intake and exhaust ports are just about done. All that's left for them is to clean up some areas around the valve guide with some finer scotchbrite to make sure I have it all even. For the intake ports I just need to even out the ramp around the valve guide to verify it's a smooth taper and not wavy. 

























I think I'm for the most part done with the exhaust manifold though. Now I just need to get it blasted to remove the rust and then coat it with some high temp paint.









I talked to a guy at the local import parts service shop about the bearings (where I purchased them) and he said they should be fine but for a definite answer to bring one of the bearings in. He didn't have much time to talk since it was the end of the day and he was in a hurry. I'll probably pull one of the caps off in the next day or two and show him the difference between the two.
This sucks the work is getting pushed out further and further but I'd rather double check everything right now as opposed to finding out the hard way later.


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## Pnuu (Jul 27, 2005)

Looking awesome Brian!
Your attention to detail is really paying off in this build.


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## Kameirocco (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (zane!)*

damn bud! it's been awhile! 
lookin good! i'd come over and help but i'm livin 2300 miles away from ya right now lol
before i left though i did see your car headin down halsey infront of my house http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif lookin good!


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## skidplate (May 4, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Brian, DJM has C2 software now.







Nice little write up you have here. I haven't seen you around in a while. I would go with the larger valves if it were me.


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (skidplate)*

Any updates on this?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (doodpod)*


_Quote, originally posted by *doodpod* »_Any updates on this?









No pictorial work updates for today but hopefully Friday I'll be able to make it out to my parents house to do some more porting work on the head.
Actually, a week ago last saturday I did a little work on the exhaust manifold. What I did was do some welding on the outside of where the pipes intersect the mounting flange. When I did it I didn't have my camera on me so no pictures yet. I'll be sure and take some this friday and post it when I go back over to my parents. 
It may seem like I've been slacking but it's more so lack of time. I take night classes 4 nights a week, work graveyard and have an every other saturday all day autobody class. Only time I can work on it is when I go out to my parents house (45min drive)
I talked to a local parts shop about my rod bearing issue and they said it shouldn't be a problem. I've been hesitant on bolting up the bottom complete until I got an answer on my concern but I can finally finish it.
The head is the main holdup right now. I need to finish polishing the combustion chambers and port/ polish the #1 cylinder intake/ exhaust runners and smooth out the ramp in the #4 intake. 
Just spoke with the shop that did the work to my bottom end and I was quoted $20/valve to have oversized and hardened valve seats installed(I think seat price included). Oh if you only knew how tempting this is because my mind says to go for it while the head is out ya know? Especially since I can get +1 valves for the same price as stock, *$17 each*!!








I think I'll have to check my funds to see if I can find a spare $160 lying around to fund OS valve seats.....








I haven't gotten around to ordering the springs until I got an answer from Supertech on which ones to use. They have 2 different springs to use, one having more lift than the other. One set has 12mm max lift and the other 14mm. Got an answer back this morning to use the ones with 14mm lift as the other would be too aggressive for my application. 
Next week I'll order the valves and springs for the head from http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ . They have pricing on Supertech valve train that nobody can seem to beat. 

So right now these are the items left to purchase:
-Valves
-Springs
-Lifters
-Bigger cam (?)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









Oh the money to be spent... the bad part about doing it yourself. You think that might as well add a little more since you're doing the work yourself, labor is free and while everything is torn apart and easy accessible right? Soon enough you have something waaaaaay more than what you originally wanted and a cost more than intended. Eh, oh well, it's all fun and learning right?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

More updates!
Worked on porting and polishing the head and spent just under 3hrs on it I think. 
The bottom end is fully assembled now! Wahoo!








I'm rather happy with how the head is turning out now. Spent a majority of the time widening the intake and exhaust ports right around the valve guides. With the intake that I'm running, air flow will for sure be increased so I figure might as well allow it to enter as fast right? The rest of the time I cleaned up the combustion chamber and polished the runners. Ultra fine scotchbrite takes forever and a day to remove anything! I now need a smaller spherical bit to finish up the chambers and make them all look nifty like. 
I've decided that I will go with the +1 valves after all. I figure what the hell, I need 2 new valve seats anyways which means for $120 more I can get all new ones. I can find that money. So yes, the valves seats are really scratched in the pics but I'll be getting all new ones anyways.
Here some pictures of my work so far:
*Intake #4*








*Intake #2 and #3*








*Intake #1*









*Exhaust #1 and #2*








*Exhaust #3 and #4*








*CC #1*








*CC #2 and #3*








*CC #4*








Here some pictures of my engine, final assembly. I'd like to note that I'll edit this and put in torque specs later, I don't currently have my Bentley handy right now.
Oil pump, baffling and chain installed:

















And finally the crown, err, oil pan installed:
















On another note, I picked up this nifty item for my rebuild. Found it in the mk4 classifieds for only $35 shipped. Should be a nice touch to top off my motor right? Oh ya, thinking about getting it powder coated perchance. Polishing it would just be a pain in the a$$ with all them tight corners! Color still to be determined.
















So there you have it, another day of progress on my motor. I'll have updates on the exhaust manifold tomorrow after I finish some welding on it.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Another small update.

Took my exhaust manifold to autobody class yesterday and blasted/ painted it. I used some high temp ceramic paint for it meant for exhaust manifolds. Something I will note about painting it, the paint is effing runny! I've never sprayed on paint so thin before. I stuck the paint can on the shaker for about 5 min to make sure it was mixed but damn, so thin. Which means yes I have some runs on it but I don't care really, not like it's gonna be seen right?
I didn't take pictures of the welding I did because honestly, I'm a bit embarassed about it's looks. I used the MIG in class to do it and had issues with the settings/ visibility. A few times I had the voltage cranked up too high so it was flashing a lot which messed my vision through the helmet. The other times I just had a hard time seeing the point where I wanted to weld over all the rusted areas. Oh well, it all got welded though. I can tell it did from the heat marks on the inside of the tubing.

One nicely ported AEG exhaust mani. I'll show comparison to stock when I swap motors and get the original one off it for a side by side comparison.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

I thought I might throw an update in here, even though it's about what I should do, more so a pondersome thought. 
So yesterday I called up Import Performance Parts (IPP) to order my valves and springs. They said they'd ship everything for $322 ($295 in parts and $27s/h) and should have them in about a week. Everything should be fine unless I hear from them, sure enough I do get a call from them yesterday. Called them back today and found out that the +1 valves and spring set is on backorder until the end of May.








Yes this puts a kink in my plans some but at the same time makes me think more. On the Supertech website they show that they make +2 valves for my car but IPP doesn't show to carry them. While on the phone with IPP I ask about them and they said they'd call me back with info (price, availability etc..). I think I need to stop asking questions and wondering about more performance, it's too damned tempting!
Got the call back from IPP about the +2 valves and it seems they can get them, they are in stock AND they would be the same damned price! Now it seems I can get +2 valves for the $136 for my motor and those are currently in stock, the spring set would then just be on backorder.
Any thoughts on what I should do? 
I've already budgeted for new valve seats so I'm thinking that I might as well. My bigger concern with this is that the software I should be going with. I think it's time to start talking with Techtonics about getting a custom chip for my car, especially since I should be getting a TT276* cam for this motor. Yes, TT does do a custom chip (TT PN# 133 352, mk4 '98-00 mk4 2.0L), I just hope they still do because according to their catalog they do.

With the motor out I've been thinking about my clutch and flywheel. I mean, my clutch has 110k on it which should be fine. I figure I can last another 70k+ easy since I changed my first clutch at 143k. 
Part of me says to order up lightweight flywheel and clutch kit. I mean, everything is off so why not right? For around $325 I can pick up a 14lb flywheel and a VR6 (228mm) clutch kit. If I throw my old clutch back on, with all the power that I'll now have, my current clutch will probably only last another 50k tops (year and a half) before I have to pull the tranny out for another clutch.
Any ideas/ thoughts/ input to what I should do?











_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 4:54 PM 4-29-2009_


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

C2 Motorsports cam specific tune.
DOO EET!
And thanks for the IM on the manifold stuff.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_C2 Motorsports cam specific tune.
DOO EET!
And thanks for the IM on the manifold stuff.

I wonder what it'll cost for me to get them to do a tune for me. Maybe I'll have to shoot them an e-mail asking. I did see, as skidplate (Bryan) posted earlier that a local shop carries C2 software, so they have access to their tunes. 
I just hope it won't cost me an arm and a leg for it.


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## Brightgolf (Jan 13, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

My tune I got today cost 250 for my 260 degree cam. car runs beautifully. The 14lb/vr6 clutch combo is what I rock and I enjoy it. Looking good










_Modified by Brightgolf at 9:47 PM 4-30-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Brightgolf)*

Well, I think this weekend when I get the chance I'm going to shoot [email protected] C2 an e-mail about a custom tune to my motor.

Now as far as the whole flywheel deal, I'munfortunately leaning more towards it for some reason. I think it's partially because I don't want to have to do a clutch later and pull the trans, I'd rather just do it now while it's all apart when I swap motors. 
Though I would like to note that if I did go for it, I wouldn't go super lightweighton the flywheel because the rotational mass comes in handy at low rpms. I'd probably do between an 11 and 14lb wheel. Anything lighter and I just can't justify almost doubling the cost for it. 
I as well wouldn't do some high spec clutch because I don't think I'm going to be close 150whp so anything rated around 200 would be fine. Again, the cost to jump up a stage I just can't justify. 
On another note once again, I ordered my valves and spring kit yesterday from Import Performance Parts. Total cost, if I remember right, was like $322 shipped for intake/ exhaust Supertech valves and dual spring kit with seats and titanium retainers. Screaming deal if you ask me








Unfortunately my springs are on back order and IPP toldme they'd be in at the end of May and Supertech is accurate when they give dates for restocking. Guess I havemore time to port the crap out of my head








Something I wanted to say about IPP, they have EXCELLANT customer service! When they say they'll call you back, they mean it! Plus they called me back immediately, tried 3x's the other day(I was out) to let me know what was on backorder. It's better than some places which never tell you and your parts arrive weeks later. So I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend checkingout IPP http://importperformanceparts.net/ . http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## shortysclimbin (Sep 27, 2005)

Hey just reading through the build not bad at all. I do have a few very important suggestions for the head porting, block work, and overall power. ...
First, take your old gasket and trace the circle around where it would be on the head. now do the same thing on the block. You should have clearance to put larger pistons in? If not great! you already have half of your issue resolved! Issue you say? yeah its called valve shielding... its where you increase your valve sizes so much that you actually have flow constrictions on the outer walls of the head/cyl walls... My suggestion is if you can cut back the head on the sides of the valves a bit to reduce shielding. (if the pistons are smaller than the gasket cut the block too. But make sure you only cut it back a to where the piston ring doesn't run into the cuts. )
Now if you did the above also have your valves lapped and ground. This will transfer heat better which will help in the power. 
Next, Remeasure your CC of the head with cutouts, and the block! calculate your CR with your specs and then figure out how much you need to shave/ space for N/A motor. 11:1 and you may need water meth to keep it cool enough to run high test..
Now lifters! dont use hydros if you plan on making a N/A motor! go with the oem vw solid lifters shimmed for you cam. That should allow you to have much higher rev tunes (8k or so)
When you get a light weight clutch and flywheel bring it to the engine shop and have it balanced assembled with the bolts. I would have you take the rods and pistons to get them done with the crank but its already together







... 
And finally, nice job. The heavy polishing will hinder low rpm power a bit but should open things up the higher up you get the rpms.
PS one more. port your intake to match and get a larger TB. Have the ecu tuned for all you have done and the higher rpms levels... she should be a screamer and may need larger injectors to get all you can out of her along with a better flowing exhaust.



_Modified by shortysclimbin at 8:25 PM 5-1-2009_


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## TightDub (Dec 24, 2003)

*Re: Yet another engine build/ rebuild thread... mk4 AEG (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

I just removed my head to find two bad pistons. I will be going over ur thread as I tackle my rebuild http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Nice info here


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: Yet another engine build/ rebuild thread... mk4 AEG (TightDub)*

Well well well... look what brown did for me today! So much for that end of month backorder eh? 
I got home right when UPS was walking up to my apartment to deliver the package and as soon as I saw the Supertech logo on the side of the package, I immediately parked my car and literally came running with excitement to grab the package from the guy. I'm sooooo happy!!!








Also I'd like to note that for my birthday last Friday, my parents were so proud of me for the work that I've been doing with this that they'll be paying for the new valve seats for my engine, wahoo!








Guess I'd better get going on the finishing porting on my head now eh?
Well lookie what Brown did for me today....








Shiny objects, yay!!








Each valve individually sealed in their own little package, impressive!









Maybe if I play things right I can have the motor install at the end of this month? Tempting but we'll have to see how school is going as well (taking 4 classes and working full time).


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## ducatipaso (Apr 13, 2003)

nice to see things moving along. cant wait to hear this beast.

come over some eve for a joyride in the wagon. it's road legal again.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (ducatipaso)*

Did another hour of work today porting/ polishing the head. I didn't want to do too much right now since I have to get bigger valve seats in and then port it more to match. 
I widened the ports as the runner hits the valve guide. Pretty happy with how it's going so far. Final porting will be next weekend, or right after I get the head back from the machine shop.








_Edit for_: Oh ya, new lifters came in the mail today. Now I just need to purchase a new cam and exhaust manifold studs and copper bolts and that SHOULD be everything, wahoo!











































_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 9:54 PM 5-8-2009_


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## Kameirocco (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

woot! keep it goin bud!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (Kameirocco)*

So I thought I might throw a small update in here. 
Over the weekend I cleaned up a few areas in the runners that felt as thought they had a ripple in them and polished them all a bit more. This coming week the head will be sent out for decking, oversized valve seats and valve guides installed. . 
I'm thinking I may have the head decked 0.040" or maybe a bit more because the valves are recessed and not flat so there is a little more area in the combustion chamber. I remember reading through an archieved article about some guy e-mailing Supertech about what that added volume in the valve is. Maybe I'll do that just to get an idea how much is added.... that or have a bit more whacked off the head.








Slowly this thing is coming together. Tentative install weekend is that of the 13th or the 20th of next month. That's right between school terms, yes I'm taking summer classes.


----------



## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

The more and more I think about my motor the more and more I wanna just go balls out....
Suddenly I have this urge to want to get my head decked about .065" or more just to see what happens, ya know? Though I think I'm done for porting because well, I do want to get this damned thing in my car somewhat soon. Unfortunately too much compression and then I'll start to worry about the stability of my OEM rods. But hey, I won't be anywhere near what turbo models do at the flywheel on OEM rods so I should be good. 
Eh, maybe I'll hit in the neighborhood of 11.5:1 compression. That wouldn't be too bad right? Oh ya, I will be talking to C2 about a program. The local shop, Double J, I helped out with running a C2 flash (my car was the test subject) went well and something might come from that in regards to getting a flash from them. Well, hopefully they can at least help me get the ball rolling on some software.


----------



## Kameirocco (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

just be cautious about decking you're head too much, i can't recall if 2.0l engines are interference but decking it too much will deff make it an interference motor http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif however just make sure your timing is dead on and dont break a belt!
other then that it's looking awesome man! 
with the fab skills you have, why not make an eaton kit for yourself? cheap FI


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (Kameirocco)*

Believe me, that is something I've been thinking about! The 2.0's are an interference motor.
I have a few calculations and I'll write down later when I get to school about clearances.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Dude your head work is turning out very nice... I wish I could get mine going, it's just been sitting in my living room on top of my TV stand, I need to quit my job or take a vacation or something, I have absolutely no time to work on my car.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_Dude your head work is turning out very nice... I wish I could get mine going, it's just been sitting in my living room on top of my TV stand, I need to quit my job or take a vacation or something, I have absolutely no time to work on my car.











Thanks! I can't wait to get it finished up. What the crap is the spare head doing on your TV???? I have a 20v as the centerpiece on my coffee table. Maybe I'll do something with it, I dunno.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

















Make time to work on your car. Do you work 8 days a week or something????


----------



## ghoastoflyle (Jan 21, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

omg that's beautiful








edit: your porting and polishing


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (ghoastoflyle)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ghoastoflyle* »_omg that's beautiful








edit: your porting and polishing


Thanks!!!! Much appreciated! Hopefully tomorrow the head will get sent off for valve guides to be pressed in, valve seats installed and have the head decked. I'll write what I think about how much I'm going to deck it and other stuff about it later when I have time. When I get the head back I can open up the bowls(around the valve guide) to match the new over sized ones. 
On another note, been thinking that with this more powerful higher flowing motor, I'll need a better flowing exhaust. So I'm thinking maybe I'll look into getting a TT 2.5" cat back system with a Borla muffler and potentially the TT high flow cat with matching downpipe. Yes that is a huge chunk of change but little do you know, I have a friend that works for a VW parts store so it won't be as costly as you think, which is why I'm even considering it.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_
What the crap is the spare head doing on your TV????
Make time to work on your car. Do you work 8 days a week or something????


It's on the stand that my TV is in, not directly on the TV lol. I have it there so it will motivate me. Gonna get it cleaned soon and then I will start ordering up parts.
And Yeah I work a lot, regular 40-45 hours a week in the office and then I am on call for a lot of stuff, I do IT work for hospital systems all across US/Canada/Europe.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

Or you could start ordering parts therefore you have to get the head work done so you can put it together? Start doing something with it.....
like taking those measurements for me perchance on the exhaust port sizes??


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## VWinA (Oct 20, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Don't forget proper coolant:








I did it in my ABA and I had no pinging whatsoever afterwards.


_Modified by VWinA at 1:12 AM 5-23-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VWinA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWinA* »_Don't forget proper coolant:








I did it in my ABA and I had no pinging whatsoever afterwards.


Interesting, I can't say that I've ever even heard of that brand before. I'll have to research them out and see what makes them different.


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## VWinA (Oct 20, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_

Interesting, I can't say that I've ever even heard of that brand before. I'll have to research them out and see what makes them different.

Read this:
http://www.the16v.com/volkswag...t.htm


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VWinA)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VWinA* »_
Read this:
http://www.the16v.com/volkswag...t.htm


Very interesting article... I must say that I am intrigued... pricey stuff though. Have to see what it'll cost for enough for my car. A consideration though!

*Minor update... *
*FINALLY* got my head dropped off at the machine shop to have the o/s valve seats installed, guides pressed in and honed and the head decked. Total quote for all that work is $300. Head should be done next Tuesday and I might be able to pick it up in the evening before class. 
I know I said I would have the head dropped off earlier but with classes 4 nights a week and prior to memorial day weekend working 21 days in a row leaves little time to run around during the week. Especially when the shop is on the other side of town and the only way to get there is to cut through downtown. On a good day 30 min one way, in traffic it's about 1-1.5hrs.









Purchased a TT276* cam and a Neuspeed P-Flo intake (both lightly used, cost savings!)... That should help my motor more ya think? 
Now once I get my head back I just need to clean up the walls for the size diff between the valves and then I pretty much Assemble the top end, FINALLY! Once I have all that completed I can test fit the head on the block with the timing belt attached (head bolts to be not fully torqued, they're the stock TTY) to check for clearances. 

Things are finally again getting interesting yet at the same time rushed. Maybe that's just because it's the end of the school term and I'm done with it in 2 weeks








Anyway you look at it, I'm running around like a chicken with my head cut off.


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## VWinA (Oct 20, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_

Very interesting article... I must say that I am intrigued... pricey stuff though. Have to see what it'll cost for enough for my car. A consideration though!


I know it all adds up but bang for your buck, you could get quite a bit from this mod as you're engine will be able to run more spark advance.
As for $$, I know it adds up but figure around 80$ for the couple of gallons you'll need including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (VWinA)*

*Update time!!*
Picked up the head from the machine shop today and am very pleased! Everything looks great. I had them put in the oversize valves seats, press in the valve guides and deck the head. 
Here I've got all the valves just sitting in the head. Next week I'll put the rest of the valvetrain together on the head. One thing I will have to do after I get it all in is measure from the top of the valve stems to the base of where the valve cover gasket goes. there's a measurement in the Bentley for that so the lifters will have the proper operation. I would have done that today but I didn't have time, college finals next week.
















Here you can see where I still need to do a little blending with a Dremel on the intake ports due to the oversized seats.
















Here we have the two o/s valves, +2mm

















Got this guy in the mail the other day from Chris (2.0t-yook) TT276* cam and then bolted it to my Autotech adjustable cam gear.









Speaking to the cam gear, when I bought my first one off a guy here in the classifieds he noted it as for the mk4 2.0 and 1.8T... well, it won't work for my 2.o because it doesn't have the ring windows for the cam position sensor. So since the one gear I had didn't work, I had to purchase another.....








I think this one must be for the 1.8T because also the bolt is smaller and the orientation is different (woodruff key)
Here's the difference of the two gears:








So if anybody wants my spare, it will be for sale









I *think* I'm about done purchasing parts for this build, FINALLY! But who knows, I may splurdge for a lightweight flywheel (14lb) and do my clutch at the same time. Though I might be purchasing some of that special coolant, I'm definitely intrigued to purchase some.

__
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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

With all that work done I'm kinda surprised you didn't go with tapered valve guides. Looks great however. Really anticipating the final outcome.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubxcrew)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubxcrew* »_With all that work done I'm kinda surprised you didn't go with tapered valve guides. Looks great however. Really anticipating the final outcome.


That was actually an after thought of mine but if you read my first post and compare it to what I'm at now, might be able to see I've done a bit more than my original intention.








With me bring the crafty machinist that I am, I was actually thinking about taking the guides that I have right now and tapering them myself on the lathe a bit more than anybody offers. Unfortunately I never had the time that I thought I would have to do so. Plus there's also the cost to actual effect factor, aka bang for the buck. My hook up got these guides for $2.22/ each and compare that to the $7.50/each for the tapered on the TT website, you can kinda see why I stuck with the standard ones. Plus I had already purchased the standard ones so I didn't want to buy more. My mind just couldn't justify it for power.
I too can't wait for this thing to be done. Oh, found a great deal on the coolant so I may be picking some of that up here shortly


----------



## ny_fam (Apr 3, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

BTW where did you get the over sized seats?
You mentioned that the original valves are flat top and the supertech valves are dished. I'd like to know what years and models came with flat top valves..
I've only seen the dished from ABA and AEG, and would have preferred using the flat top on my counter flow conversion.
I's also like to see the weight difference between the stock valves and the supertech and dished stock valves.
BTW nice build... Hope you get to drive it this summer.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (ny_fam)*

I got the valve seats from the machine shop that did the work to the block and the head. I couldn't find them but the shop did and they only cost like $10/ each. 
As for the valves, if you look at my first page you can see the valves that were in there when I CC'd the head. It's the exhaust valves that is for sure flat as it's the sulfur filled kind. This coming week when I assemble the head I can get some pictures comparing the two valves. As for the weight, I'd happily weigh them for you but right now I can't think of any immediate scale precise enough to weigh something as light as the valves. I'll see if I can scout around and find something to do a comparison with. 

I'll definitely be driving it this summer. Scheduled swap right now is in about 2 weeks. In this coming week I'll be smoothing the radius on the intake from the o/s valves and then assemble the head complete. Once the head is done I can then bolt the head to the block, attach the timing belt, bolt the oil cooler and filter stuff along with the coolant pieces. 
Oh ya, i WAS going to buy some of that Evans coolant from a guy on ebay that had 4 gallons for $90 shipped but I didn't have the money in my paypal account just yet. Now it's been sold so I guess I can't go that route. Gonna check local to see what I can find to avoid shipping.


----------



## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

More updates!

So yesterday I went over to my parents house and started to assemble the head so I can check to see if I'll have any issues with the valve seating. 
Now in the Bentley manual there is the dimension from the bottom of the valve cover gasket surface to the top of the valve stem. This dimension is a minimum and used for calculating valve4 seat resurfacing.
Per Bentley:
AEG, AVH, AZG, BBW, BEV:
Intake: 33.8mm (1.331 in.) 
Exhaust: 34.1 (1.343 in.) 








For those who are a bit confused, this is what I'm talking about and a picture to how I did it:









As you can see I have a block below my depth mic. That block measure 0.474" thick in the center. For 2 of the intake valves, from the top of the block to the top of the valve stem, I got 1.798. That leaves me at 1.324"
1.798"-0.474"=1.324"
That leaves me with an extra 0.007" that need to be either ground off the top of the valve stems or the face of the valve seat to ensure proper lifter operation. Most likely it'll be taken off the valve stems since I can visually see a height difference between two of the stems.
I need to go over all the rest of the measurements and collect them before I proceed any further with the head. I just wanted to check a few and if I found that it was off, I would halt work on the head assembly. 

In other news, my engine is so excited to be coming together that it developed a severe cause of blue block!

























This is what I meant when I said that I wanted to paint my motor,

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view








Only reason I painted it even is because now if the time to. With all the trouble that I'm going through building my motor I figure I might as well give it something special, so I figured I'd paint it blue. VW has blue in their logos right? So why not.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view








Over spray on the aluminum will be cleaned up later. Yes I should have painted it before attaching the pan and whatnot but the weather wasn't cooperating. Yesterday was a bit toasty and I had time before it started raining. I can clean the block up with some Scotchbrite later, the aluminum that is. 
So now with the block painted I'm pretty much ready to start assembling the components to it. First item I started to attach was the oil cooler flange. Next was the thermostat and pipe along with the water pump. Now I didn't tighten the bolts down because I wanted to do it all at once so I knew which bolts were fully torqued and which weren't. 








After I attached the oil cooler flange I started to attach the oil cooler itself, only to run into a big problem. Seems the guy I bought the flange from last fall somehow cross-threaded or did something screwy with the tube that the filter bolts to. I pulled off the flange and noticed that the tube is in there at an angle. If you compare the angle of the tube to the lower surface you'll notice it's not at a 90* angle.
















So with that problem, I either reuse the flange that I have on my current motor or somehow find another one. Though it seems nobody sells them as I researched the part number (06A 115 417). I also noticed that my lower timing gear seems to have a dent on one of the teeth so again, I either reuse the gear off my motor or I find another.
If anybody has a spare crankshaft gear that would work(reasonably priced) I'd potentially like to purchase it off you, hell, maybe even an oil cooler flange if I can't find one. That way I can get the motor assemble and check for clearances before I drop it in my car. Oh the joys of last minute items eh?

That's it for now so far but what I plan to do next is clean up the lip on the intake ports from the O/S valve seats, I might do that this Sunday. Maybe then I'll clean up the block a little more and see what I can do about going over my plan for swapping this beast in and make sure I have EVERY piece needed before I do the swap. All I can say is that things will start moving again now that this week finals are over with. This slowed down some because it was the end of the term and I've been taking 4 classes which took up my time.
Oh ya, today in autobody class I'm going to weld a bit more on my exhaust manifold. After painting the high temp paint on it, some overspray landed on the inside of the lower mount and uncovered a crack in the weld on the inside. So now I get to fix that because I'd have to run into an exhaust leak down the road because of it.


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## Kameirocco (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Kameirocco)*

Time for another small update. 
Today I went back over to my parents house and ground the small ledge on the inside of the runners from the o/s seats with the Dremel.
On another note, I'm finding more small things there were overlooked earlier that's causing an issue now. Seems my springs that I have are a hair too big so I need to have the seats enlarged.... to think I just have the guides pressed in, now they'll need to be removed I bet. 
Oh well, it's got to be done....
While I had the valves in the head I cc;d it and found out the new volume to the chamber is roughly 26cc. If I did the math on the correct compression ratio calculator, the new one will be either 10.8:1 or 11.8:1, that's also depending on which compressed head gasket thickness you go with. I'll have a better answer for the thickness when I crack the motor open that;s in my car. 
Last Friday morning I ordered my new clutch and lightweight flywheel. I figure that while the motor is out I might as well do the clutch since it's right there. I ordered the ECS lightweight flywheel (14lb) with OEM Sachs 228mm clutch. That should be here this Thursday, yay!
Tomorrow I'll be dropping the head back to the machine shop to have the proper size hole for the springs cut and have the valve stems ground so they'll be within the Bentley specs. I got all the dimensions that I need for all 8 valves and it seems as though only 5 need to be ground. 
Tomorrow I'll update this again with more that I find out.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So yesterday I dropped the head off back at the machine shop to get a larger seat mill for the new springs. Come to find out that the cutter that they need is an odd ball size so they have to special order it. Should be the end of the week when it's ready, ugh. Oh well, it takes what it takes and any setback is my fault due to improper planning. as they always say, hindsight is 20/20. When I do pick up the head It'll be fully assembled for me ready to bolt on. they'll be installing the stem seals since I guess it takes a special tool to do so. I figure have them get it fully assembled for me since they know what they're doing. Plus they can grind the ends of the valve stems so that they're all at the correct height. 
On another note, yesterday I ordered a few last(I always say that but there seems to be something I forget) parts for the swap.








This is the reason why I had to buy another crankshaft timing gear:
















I have no idea when it got damaged but I had to order another one. It probably got dented in the almost 3 years that it was sitting in our shop on the ground. Sucks that I just now noticed it but I'm glad I finally did. I would not like to have eaten a timing belt due to it, that would be a nightmare to me!
Does anybody know of a metal fuel rail that would work with my motor off the top of their head? I've been thinking it would be nice to have a shiny one under the hood of my car. I know BB makes one for the ABA but I'm not certain it would work with the AEG's.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## sgolf2000 (Mar 2, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

bbm's website says ABA/AEG. it appears to be on sale as well. or maybe its always on sale.


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_
On another note, I noticed that the thrust washers are different than the ones that came with my motor. Seems I have 4 now where as before I had only 2 (pics to come later). The old thrust washers have part number "026 635 A" (VW/Audi stamped on them) and the new ones are by Kolbenschmidt # 026 198 421. Any idea what the difference is for getting 4 washers when I had 2 before?

Just a replacement.
Every single brand new crate motor I have dismantled from VW/Audi came with 2 thrust washers OEM parts.
I have been unable to find an OEM source for the 4 piece thrust bearings out there.


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*

I think I remember seeing a alum or comp metal fuel rail stock on the later BBW engine code MK4 2.0's. May be wrong though. Still, it's something to look into.


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## digraph (Jul 23, 1999)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_Oh well, it takes what it takes and any setback is my fault due to improper planning. as they always say, hindsight is 20/20. 

This is why the tuners get the big bux when they sell a kit. I'm sure there's a lot of trial an error for these kinds of involved upgrades. Keep up the great work!!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubxcrew)*


_Quote, originally posted by *sgolf2000* »_bbm's website says ABA/AEG. it appears to be on sale as well. or maybe its always on sale.

Wow, thanks for checking on that! I always remember seeing it for the ABA since nobody really makes performance stuff for the mk4 2.o's. It was while I was typing up my post that it came to mind, should have researched before posting a question.







I checked it out and ya, it sure looks niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice! Maybe one of these days I'll see about budgeting it because right now, funds are draining. I've spent a bit more than what I thought I would but it's too easy to just keep dumping money into it. Probably later this summer, at the earliest, or later this year I'll look at picking one up. Well, I'll probably pick the rail up first and then the nice FPR adapter that they show along with it later. 
Only one problem I see with that beautifully machined piece and putting it on my car.... it's not made by me! Right now every custom machined component on my car I've made myself (I have 3 parts in the works to be machined in the next 2 months). I'm a machinist so putting something else I could make myself on my car is hard for me to do. Then again, how soon I could do it is another thing... like every other project I seem to take on










_Quote, originally posted by *vdubxcrew* »_I think I remember seeing a alum or comp metal fuel rail stock on the later BBW engine code MK4 2.0's. May be wrong though. Still, it's something to look into.

I'll look into that! I have a friend that has an '05 Golf and I'll see if I can take a look under her hood.







I think that's a BBW engine as it's the last of the 8v's if I'm not mistaken. Maybe if I Google long enough I can find a picture of one....









Thanks for all the compliments so far on the build! I talked to the machinist who's working on the head and he got a hold of a cutter for the valve spring seats and is on the way. 
Looking like Friday I should be able to pick up the head fully assembled......


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Figure I might as well update this again.
Went over to a different auto machine shop than my motor is at (cause this one is closer and it was getting close to rush hour) to ask about throwing a heli-coil in place where the oil filter pick up tube threads in. they said they don't have the proper tools to ensure that it goes in perpendicular to the surface. Essentially they don't have a DRILL PRESS! All the holes that they heli-coil otherwise are all by hand. That I can kind of understand since the tolerance on bolt holes can be kind of loose but wouldn't you want to be sure that it goes in straight? They said that couldn't guarantee that it would be perfectly perpendicular since it's a somewhat shallow hole so they wouldn't do it. They instead gave me a card of the local machine shop that could probably help me out. I told them that I'll just try something myself since I'll be taking a machining class this summer term. Ugh.... there goes that quick fix.








I then went over to an import parts store where I picked up the last (There I go again thinking I've got everything.... how many times have I said this? haha) parts and I showed the flange to my friends dad who's the head of the service department. He looked at it after a while and said it couldn't be fixed. He could pull another one off a motor and sell it to me for $125 if I really wanted another one now. I told him no thanks that I'll just reuse the one currently on my car. 
Side note: Never tell a machinist that something can't be fixed. It can ALWAYS be fixed; just depends on how much time, resources and money you have.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view








I'll fix it in the coming weeks, clean it up and throw it on my car probably.

On a much better note, I got my ECS 14lb flywheel and clutch kit in the mail today.







One more performance item for my build but better yet, another item that had to be replaced soon, the clutch at least. 
As I was driving around today I realized that this motor swap is coming at the perfect time because I'm due for a new timing belt. I put my last one on around the ~201k mile mark and currently I'm at around ~254k miles. I'm a hair early but it's perfect timing none the less.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









So when I pick up the head tomorrow (I hope) I can head over to my parents place and start assembling this thing! Figure I'll throw the cam in the head and install the timing belt and tensioner and whatnot, get that all timed to verify all clearances check out.








Oh ya, I'll re-measure the cc volume to verify compression that I might be getting. To get the compressed head gasket number, that I'm certain a lot of people would like to know, I figure I'll do this: Once the new motor is completely operational and running fine I'll measure a distance between two repeatable points on the block and the head, cut the timing belt (I've always wanted to do that!) and remove the head. then I can remove the head gasket and bolt it back down to the head and re-measure the two points to see how much it has changed for an accurate number. 
Maybe later if I get bored I'll throw up a very rough procedure to how I'm going to go about swapping this over, what order I'll be doing things, for everybody to see. I dunno...


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

I should have known things wouldn't go as smoothly as I hoped....








Called up the machine shop today to see about picking up the head as the cutter should have come in by now and they said they could have it ready by Friday to pick up. talked to the shop hand there and he said that the cutter wouldn't be in until next week. *:facepalm:* I don't know how this could have happened when I was talking to the owner, the guy who was working on the head, Wednesday and I told him to go ahead and order the cutter and have it overnighted. I understood the extra charge but I wanted to install this weekend. 
I figured the cutter would have come in this morning at the latest and then they could enlarge the seats the extra 0.060" (?) or so, grind the valve stems down the needed amount and put it back together. Guess it wasn't that easy and I'm not that lucky.








So now with that minor (







) setback, motor swap over is pushed back until Saturday the 27th. In a way I guess it's not an entirely bad thing. Next week when my machining class starts I can Heli-Coil the threads for the oil filter flange and get it all cleaned up to bolt to the block. At least then I won't have to use the one that's on my car and it'll make the swap over that much easier. Plus I now have a week of once again checking over everything to make sure it's all in order. Maybe I'll paint the valve cover so it's not the aluminum color anymore.... ya, I think I'll do that.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Little update and funny story here about the motor currently in my car.
So Saturday I was at autobody class working on my car. I took a few items there from my motor to be pained like the valve cover, water pipe, accessory bracket etc... Painted the water pipe black since all the hoses attached to it are black and was going to paint the VC and other bits a nice dark gray. So I picked up some black engine enamel and also some "cast iron" colored stuff. The cap for it was a dark gray so I figure it would work. I go to paint the valve cover and the cast iron color is more of an olive drab with a hit of gray in it! GAH!







NOTHING like the cap shows, not even close!







So needless to say I didn't paint anything else other afterwards with that color until I had what I wanted. Here's a picture from my phone that I took so you can get an idea what I meant. Yes the white balance is so off but hey, lighting isn't the best in the prep room and it was with my phone.








Later that day when I get home I realized my motor was telling me I should have swapped it out this weekend.








As I'm unloading my autobody supplies my car starts to overheat. Seems a big leak started and an air pocket formed since there wasn't much coolant left. Of course I was rather cheesed off when this happened. The coolant was leaking from the water flange at the back of the cylinder head, it ate through the little rubber gasket, common leaking place. After that fiasco I filled it back up with water to make the trip home. Right now the mixture in the system is probably about 10% coolant and 90% water. I'm not concerned about the mixture because again, I have another motor and the temperature hasn't dropped below 55* here. I just need to make it through to this weekend. Worse comes to worse, I borrow my dad's truck until I get my motor together.
On another funny note about my motor needing to be changed... I was adding water to the system today and I glanced over at my timing belt and something caught my eye.... I somehow seem to have gotten this object stuck in my timing belt..... it's a hard plastic piece I think but feels kind of metallic almost







Oh ya, timing belt area is kinda greasy due to the blown front main seal, reason for oil consumption. 

























Guess it's good that I'll be swapping motors here shortly eh? Current timing belt has roughly 54k miles on it though so I'm due for a new one anyways. 
This is another reason for swapping motors... just because my car has this many miles doesn't mean I want it to feel like it does. And no the current motor doesn't have that many miles on it, just the body. Though I think it's time to start replacing the coolant hoses that nobody seems to replace. Mine seem to be getting a bit weak and soft.


----------



## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So I got a bit bored today while I'm over at my parents place and decided to use the time wisely, well, kinda. Since it's a nice warm day out I opted to clean up my aluminum pieces on my block and paint them to go along with the rest of the motor. The cast iron color that I painted the valve cover changed as it dried and came out pretty nice. It no longer has the green tinge to it but more gray now. Since I was happy with those results, I went ahead and paint my oil pan, front plate and oil filter flange (even though I'm not sure I can still use it) the cast color. I must say that I'm happy with the results. The only other painted item not in the picture is the water pipe, oh well. It's sitting on the bench right now. So here's a picture to how it looks right now and I'm happy, whatcha all think? I'll get a different angle later and out in the sun if possible. So far this engine will at least be looking good under the hood when it's done. Now I guess I should paint the engine bay....... hmmm, bet I could at least rattle can it when I swap motors.


----------



## Kameirocco (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

lookin good brian! keep it up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Kameirocco)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Kameirocco* »_lookin good brian! keep it up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Thanks Noah!
Right now I'm still waiting on the machine shop to call me and let me know that the head is ready. Especially since they said 4 day shipping on the cutter a week ago Wednesday(though they never shipped overnight as I had requested







) and last Friday they said it would be in this week. 
Aside from all that, picking up some replacement coolant hoses for the motor. Might as well replace them since they're rather old and I don't want to have to deal with the coolant again any time soon. Since I've had to be filling up my car with water so much recently, I cringe and the sweet smell of coolant and the bad memories it brings.








I'm thinking I might do the throttle body coolant bypass mod when I slap everything back together if I can. Seems like a good idea and I should have enough spare coolant hoses around to do it

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view








.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Wahoo! The shop just called to let me know the head is for the most part ready. They just want me bring over my bearing caps, nuts, cam and lifters to make sure everything works together. YAY!!!








One step closer to assembling this beast!


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## seattle111 (Jul 17, 2008)

Dude awesome post! Great work too.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

Is it common for the timing belt to have that wear line down the center? Is it from the tensioner or something?
Mine has it as well and it was replaced 50K kms ago, didn't know if I should be concerned.
Glad to see the build coming together!
No internet at home right now, you still need that stuff from ETKA? I can get the screen shots on a usb key and upload them to my photobucket while i'm at work.


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_Is it common for the timing belt to have that wear line down the center? Is it from the tensioner or something?
Mine has it as well and it was replaced 50K kms ago, didn't know if I should be concerned.

Mine has it too; I'm pretty sure it's from the tensioner.
Build looks great! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (doodpod)*

So I FINALLY got the head back today from the machine shop and I couldn't be happier. Wait, yes I could because the damned thing COULD be in my car but it isn't. Anyways, despite having to order a specific cutter for the valve springs and then have the head assembled and everything the end cost to walk out the door with it fully assembled was a mere $45!! I was jumping for joy when he told me that price!
So I'll quit the babbling and move on to what everybody REALLY wants to see, the whole engine as one. I'd like to note that nothing is firmly bolted in place right now. I need to insert 2 heli-coils in the holes for the coolant flange before I bolt that on. 
Tomorrow I hope to go pick up some coolant hoses that will be getting replaced. I'll probably just assemble it tomorrow and make sure I have everything in line for the swap. I was hoping to do that all today but I didn't get the home from picking up the head until 6pm. I'll post more later after I get everything firmly bolted in place and post up torque specs and whatnot. 








































Yes the garage was messy but it's not like I was doing the final build of everything right then and there. I was more so making sure I had everything for bolting it down. From the looks of it I only need to pick up 4 more bolts tomorrow (I can't find my spare supply) and I *should* be good to go. There I go again thinking I have everything, how many times will I say that again before it's true? Guess anybody?


----------



## xllllzackllllx (Jun 25, 2009)

this is simply amazing man...you did one hell of a job....when you get this all done you're gonna put it on the dyno right?


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*









red snapper...very tasty!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubxcrew)*

Ok, so I don't have the pics uploaded but the motor is together and the timing belt is all attached. This has been the EASIEST timing belt I've ever done before!








I also rotated the crank over by hand and no interference






















I'm soooooooooooooooooooo happy!!








By the by, compressed head gasket thickness on the motor is about 0.047". Stock head gasket for the AEG is approximately 0.071" before hand.

Pics and info to come later!


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Did you was the cylinder walls with ATF, assembly lube, or something else? Also, what sealer did you use between the oil filter housing, gasket/baffle, and block?


_Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 9:30 PM 6-27-2009_


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_oil filter housing, gasket/baffle, and block?

Not supposed to use a sealer.
You need to use an OEM gasket.
Costs about $1.67 from victor reinz and $25 from the dealer.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

hmm, the one I pulled from my block had a blue sealer between the gasket and surfaces. Guess I'll just clean it up and slap it back on.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Issam Abed* »_
Not supposed to use a sealer.
You need to use an OEM gasket.
Costs about $1.67 from victor reinz and $25 from the dealer.


Correct, I used an OEM gasket:








I used assembly lube while I assembled the motor on all contacting surfaces.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Alrighty now!
So here's the pictures of my work that I did yesterdaqy. Yes I was hoping to have the thing swapped over yesterday but I wanted to give myself a day to build it together and make sure it all works before dropping it in my car. So here's some pictures of the build from yesterday. I don't have my Bentley right with me so I'll list some torque specs down but I'll edit them later. Just some numbers I remember and they're probably close to what they actually are but again, I'll edit them later when I have the time.

Last view to the top of the pistons.








Bottom of the head all nicely clean up








Here's how I measured the compressed head gasket thickness:








Before hand I set the head on the block (no gasket) and took a measurement and then afterwords I put the head gasket in and torqued it all down and took another measurement.
Distance without a gasket: 5.181"
Distance with the gasket: 5.228"
So we have a compressed head gasket thickness of approximately 0.047"
Uncompressed gasket thickness is 0.071"
According to the compression calculator on this site: 
http://not2fast.com/turbo/comp...shtml
I should have a final compression of about 11.5:1, right about where I wanted it on the high side.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









Head bolt torqued as following:
*Stage 1: 30ft/lbs
Stage 2: +1/4 turn (90*)
Stage 3: +1/4 turn (90*)
*
Yes I should have gone with ARP head studs but I can still throw them in later if I want, who knows.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









Here we have the water pump and cam position sensor installed.
Water pump torque: *13 ft/lbs*








Timing belt installed and tensioner bolted on:
Tensioner nut torque: *15 ft/lbs.*








I'd like to note that this was the EASIEST timing belt that I've ever done, the quickest too!








Coolant flange installed and bolts torqued to *7ft/lbs* and attached hoses (for visual)
























Thermostat inlet pipe was bolted to *15 ft/lbs.*
Here we have the final product of the days work:








I'd like to not that the oil filter flange is NOT permanently bolted on as that is the one that has the messed thread. I just put it on for a visual to what everything is going to look like. The accessory bracket is as well not bolted down. I stopped on the way over at the dealership to pick up some bolts for it and they were out, as well as a bunch of other bolts.
I have more to add later to which I'll probably edit this post for some pictures that are on my phone. One thing I did that isn't shown here is when I put some Heli-Coils in where the coolant flange installs to the head. I've stripped them before so it was more of a preventative maintenance than anything. 




_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 9:32 AM 6-28-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Updated for your reading pleasure!

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## Issam Abed (Feb 12, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_
I used assembly lube while I assembled the motor on all contacting surfaces.

If it has a gasket then you do not *need" silicone but each user is different.
On a 06A/06B/06F motors I use silicone on:
* oil pan
* oil pump cover (front crankshaft seal cover)
Everything else should have a rubber gasket or similar.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Issam Abed)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Issam Abed* »_
If it has a gasket then you do not *need" silicone but each user is different.
On a 06A/06B/06F motors I use silicone on:
* oil pan
* oil pump cover (front crankshaft seal cover)
Everything else should have a rubber gasket or similar.
 
Correct, those are the only items I used rubber sealant on. Everything else had either a gasket or a rubber seal for it.
When I mentioned using assembly lube on mating items, that was more so directed for moving parts such as bearing surfaces and whatnot.

Also wanted to note that due to time constraints, motor will be going in next weekend.







Right now I'm in the process of moving and have to be out by Tuesday. The help that volunteered seems to have a bad hangover today so I'm SOL on getting the big stuff moved until tonight. Yes it's a real setback but hey, at least this time it isn't due to the motor.








If anybody needs any specific pictures or any technical information about the motor, feel free to ask.








Oh ya, yes I will be throwing this on the dyno once I get it all broken in and everything,


----------



## MonkeyBusiness (Jun 11, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_Oh ya, yes I will be throwing this on the dyno once I get it all broken in and everything, 

cant wait to see the results http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (MonkeyBusiness)*

So I thought I might post this here and throw it out to ya'll to give me some feedback on.
As you've read through the thread, well hopefully because the pictures only say so much, I have not really mentioned anything about throwing some software to the ECU. With all the mods that I've done to this one would think I would already have software right? WRONG! I'm currently debating between the GIAC, Uni and potentially Upsolute but leaning more towards GIAC due to: Uni is $100 more and I have to send off my ECU to get it done where as I can easily get GIAC locally flashed. Again Uni is $100 more for what, a few extra ponies, if that? In my mind I can't justify that. 
Now before you say ANYTHING about how much money I've dumped into this motor for the increase I'll be getting, it's about the same ratio to power for the Uni cost increase. If I remember right from the shop that I talked to, to maximize the effect of the mods I have I need to get the Stage 1 flash (custom written, $550) for my ECU due to the work that's been done. 
So with all that said, can anybody suggest what route I should go? I really like that thread on asking if Uni is worth the extra money and read it a few times over, but I can't decide. 
Oh ya, I sent a message to Jeff @C2 about AEG software and he never responded. I'm assuming that he then has nothing and they're out of the question.








Would really like to get some software for my car to maximize the effectiveness to the work done.


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_Oh ya, I sent a message to Jeff @C2 about AEG software and he never responded. I'm assuming that he then has nothing and they're out of the question.










IIRC they've got AEG software now. Check with a C2 dealer in your area - they supposedly flashload it. I've read that it's essentially the same as the Mk III PEMs that C2 makes for BFI. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ghoastoflyle (Jan 21, 2003)

wow, this is a great thread. Thanks for all the pictures and updates. I'd love to be able to take something like this on. Looks great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## seattle111 (Jul 17, 2008)

Hey I decided to get a new head from issam. The bbw is not flat in the area I would need to mount this, so thats not gonna happen. Im going to do some smoothing myself just like you did here before I install it. 
Also I was going to get the uni chip, I thought unitronics was the best one there was. I didnt see about problems they were having. 
I guess Ill look into the c2, whatever that is... I found them, but no aeg chip listed

_Modified by seattle111 at 9:24 AM 6-30-2009_


_Modified by seattle111 at 9:31 AM 6-30-2009_


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *seattle111* »_I thought unitronics was the best one there was. I didnt see about problems they were having. 


You can hardly call uni the best, there's what, me and one other guy out there running it.
I am disappointed with how they are dealing with my issue, and yes their price needs to be lowered to be more competitive with the other tuners out there. I got it for 50$ off normal price during a group buy but with the issue with flashing it and the gas I spent to get to their head office and now the fees for shipping them my spare ECU I have spent well beyond the normal price.
Go with C2, Jeff's work is top notch, but he is a very busy guys, and some people send them ECUs and they claim they never received them, everyone has their own problems.


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## seattle111 (Jul 17, 2008)

I think it was uni that I read about here. I cant find it again cause there are so many posts. But thanks Ill check into c2. We will see what the price is though.


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: (seattle111)*

I want to go with C2 as well, but can't because they don't offer an AEG file for automatics. The only ones I believe are Unitronic and GIAC. I don't know about Upsolute. I'd like the Unitronic cuz they offer a 23lb increase in torque which is more usable power for me cuz I'm auto and rarely see past 5000 rpm, but $100 more is ludicrous. Looks like I'll just stick with GIAC cuz I have a dealer near by.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubxcrew* »_I want to go with C2 as well, but can't because they don't offer an AEG file for automatics. The only ones I believe are Unitronic and GIAC. I don't know about Upsolute. I'd like the Unitronic cuz they offer a 23lb increase in torque which is more usable power for me cuz I'm auto and rarely see past 5000 rpm, but $100 more is ludicrous. Looks like I'll just stick with GIAC cuz I have a dealer near by.


AEG ECUs are not dependent on transmission types, I don't know why they said that... either way, get a new thread going about chips (as if there are not enough already) as this is TMTuned99'5's build thread... and not a place to discuss which chip is better.
(I have spoke with Jeff before, AEG tunes are ready they need testers)


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Jay-Bee* »_
AEG ECUs are not dependent on transmission types, I don't know why they said that... either way, get a new thread going about chips (as if there are not enough already) as this is TMTuned99'5's build thread... and not a place to discuss which chip is better.
(I have spoke with Jeff before, AEG tunes are ready they need testers)


I've talked with a few people over at NGP and Unitronic and they both told me I would have to get a flash for trans specific. I asked because I currently have available a used EIP flashed ECU but it is off a 5-speed. I went to test it out only to find it is locked via immobilizer. If I knew it would work, I'd pay the $70 or so the dealer charges to re-key the ecu, but I'm afraid it would be money down the drain if it turns out it will not adapt to my auto tranny.
Sorry bout the threadjacking. It ends now.


_Modified by vdubxcrew at 1:12 AM 7-1-2009_


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubxcrew)*

Dude it's looking great, I wish I was technically inclined enough to do my own engine work. That's a nice accomplishment you have going there!!!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Shifty)*

Just to let everybody know for a quick update. I'm about ready to pull my old motor out. All I need to do is unbolt the axles and then unbolt it from the mounts and yank it out. 
Here's a quick pic for a view of the old greasy motor:








And the new CLEAN motor almost all together awaiting install:











_Modified by TMTuned99.5Golf at 12:12 PM 7-4-2009_


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Well, today is ignition day! What better day than the 4th eh?
My motor is completely back in my car now















Last night I primed the oil system by removing the spark plugs and pulling the fuel system to crank the motor over. I already had a half quart of oil in the filter so it would start pumping something that's already in the system. Everything cranked over fine. I would have done a full system ignition but I changed my shifter style to the real mk4 style (I had the mk3 GLX/ early EARLY mk4 style) and I think I got the position of the selector wrong. It went in fine but front to back seems limited. So once I get that figured out it's time for the full ignition and drive test.









I'll report back later when I have more info to post up, along with pictures.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

*Houston we have ignition!!!!*

Yes my car starts with the new motor, wahoo! Started up yesterday with minimal problems. The only one that prevented it from starting on first turnover was that while installing my MSD coils back in, I accidentally hooked up the coil for cylinders 1+4 to plugs 2+3 and vice versa. I thought that the left side plug for the coils was for 1+4 but it was the other way around. Since i hadn't figured that out, I dropped in my stock coils/ plug wires since I knew they worked and it fired right up! That is, after I did a quick throttle body adaption. 
Once it fired up it didn't want to idle. I then held the tach at around 1700-2k rpm until the temp gage started moving and immediately went for a drive. On that first drive I kept the rpm's below 4k and did a bunch of compression braking (as directed to by a local VW motor builder). Once I hit about 100 miles I have to change the oil and then again at 1000 miles I'll change it again. Currently I'm at around 65 or so. 
I have a bunch of pictures at my parents house so once I get back over there and pull them off the camera I'll post them up here. 
For first impressions now that I've logged some miles on my car, at around 3500rpm this thing wants to move! I'm so tempted to pull it up to 5k but I'm restricting myself until I have fully broken the motor in. Now that I have thing thing idling properly, you can definitely tell something has been done. With the 276* cam in it, it's got more lope in the idle than a sine wave, haha. I'll see what I can do about getting a video to how it sounds.
For software, I WANT to go with C2 and since they don't have anything yet for my motor, I'm debating on holding out. My other option is either GIAC or Upsolute. I don't think I'm going to go with Unitronic primarily for the price. If they would drop the price to the sub $300 range without having a sale and the ability to not have to send it off, I would be on it. Until then I think I might wait. Though right now I do have a spare ECU that I can run if I need to send mine off. Unfortunately that ECU is the for an automatic. It's the exact same code ( BG ) as mine but my car is a manual. 
Well, I need more rest and I'll see what I can do about getting the pictures off the camera.


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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I was told when breaking the motor in, change oil at 20 miles, again at 100, then normal cycle. Also, beat the hell out of it. Rings seat best when beat on in the first 50 miles.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Pat @ Pitt Soundworks* »_I was told when breaking the motor in, change oil at 20 miles, again at 100, then normal cycle. Also, beat the hell out of it. Rings seat best when beat on in the first 50 miles.


Hmm, interesting method. The local VW repair shop told me to change at 100 and then at 1000. though it was in the first hundred miles that when you do a lot of compression braking that the rings seat.
Though with building a motor I can honestly say that I have yet to be told the same method by anybody for the correct procedure. the only thing that has been the same amongst everybody that I've talked to has been changing the oil at the 1000 mile mark. Other than that, everybody seems to have a different answer.


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## rigbycoleman12 (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

such a good thread
ive been keeping up with it
lets see some video!- 5k rpm?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (rigbycoleman12)*

So I've been driving my car for the past few days and all has been great. The ECU has adapted itself some to the mods to the motor and isn't as fast as it use to be at first turnover







I NEED to get some software for it. I'm talk tempted to go with GIAC since I have no idea when C2 will debut theirs and Unitronic is too expensive for me (no sale around here and then the cost of shipping). I know I can go down to a local shop and have GIAC loaded no problem or if I wanted, I could throw in Upsolute for the same price. Either way, I already miss the power.... but it still rips in the top end








__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view









I've already done the 100 mile oil change so far and will change it again at 1000 miles. Any recommendations on oil? I'm currently running dino oil as synthetic, from what I've been told, is not good for break in periods. One shop says to run conventional 20w/50w oil!







I trust them in that they've been dealing with and rebuilding VW motors for years but that just seems waaaaaay too thick! It for sure won't leak and will probably seal everything up just dandy but still. I currently have that in my car and damn, it is THICK! It's affected my idle and come the 1000 mark, I'll probably throw 5-30 in there. I can understand thicker oil for older motors but this is a fresh rebuild. Does anybody have any ideas what would be best to run and maybe some evidence behind the claim? I'm researching what I can on google and not finding much.


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Engine Oil, Gasoline Engine
All Temperatures SAE 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40
All Temperatures SAE 5W-30, 10W-50, 10W-60
Below 59°F (15°C) SAE 5W-30, 5W-40
Below 59°F (15°C) SAE 10W-30, 10W-40
Above 5°F (-15°C) SAE 15W-40, 15W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50
A - Energy Conserving
B - Multi-grade oil
Type API-SJ or API-SL
these are fluid specs for 99 golf with aeg


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## simon-says (Oct 21, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (rommeldawg)*

ttt. want to here more about this car.

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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *TMTuned99.5Golf* »_
For software, I WANT to go with C2 and since they don't have anything yet for my motor,


Jeff told me himself there is AEG software ready! Someone has to be the guinea pig.
Glad it's fired up... VESIS and ETKA crashed out on me, think my 3rd HDD is crappin' out on me so I got no access to that stuff for a while.
And during break in you should be bringing the RPMs up, the pistons/rods stretch the slightest bit at high RPM, and when it's broken in with only low RPM it can sometimes cause a ridge/notch at the top of the cylinder wall... so i've read anyway, other people were throwing their tips out there and this is something I have read several times.
And once break in is done, go for Motul 5w40, the stuff has amazing life span and tolerates high and low temps very well... it's kept mine and my GF's 8 valves happy. And VAG 502.00/505.00 approved.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (simon-says)*


_Quote, originally posted by *simon-says* »_ttt. want to here more about this car.

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Image uploading. Refresh page to view










As per your request....
*drum roll please*

My car still runs, that is all. haha, j/k

To let everybody know the engine is still up and running. Something that I wanted to note that I haven't yet is that after I got it started for the first time I did have a CEL due to an implausible signal coming from the camshaft positioning sensor. Turns out that was due to it being out of adjustment. I went the wrong way when correctly the timing for the decked head and went retarded on it, well, the timing was retarted but I must have been retarted to do something like that.








I'm currently working on getting that CEL resolved and should have it done either tomorrow or this weekend. In diagnosing that it was the timing to cause that, Joey over at Double J I can give the credit to. Why might you ask was my car even over at his shop when I dod everything myself? Well, there's this thing called software and in some electrical manner it makes my car run better. He just happen to know a few people who knew a few people on the other side of the coutry and by connection and routing through the eternet and phone calls was able to get me a copy of the C2 software for my motor.















Yes, I now have a copy of the C2 software in my ECU. As Joey has been helping me correct my timing, it should be ADVANCED (from what I've read), the software has been improving greatly! This thing is starting to rip! I love it! I'll be monitoring the ecu settings with my vag-com to see how everything is working and whatnot, I'm just pleased none the less. 
Once I get the CEL removed (timing fixed) I'll throw my car on the dyno to get some numbers to how well it performs. I can't give a complete review of how the tune works because me and my timing are a bit retarded until tomorrow.








Also, I read on a thread here that for every .012" decked off the head the timing should be advanced 1*. My gear adjusts in 1.5* increments so I guess I should adjust it about 6*. I had the head decked .050" and it's been resurfaced once about .005". 
Later this weekend I'll have a LOT more pictures to add of the swap over and hopefully some video. I do plan to post up everything that I replaced and a grand total. Last I rememebered the total cost was around $2,400 but I wouldn't be suprised if it was around $2,500 now. 
Well, back to work!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So here are some pictures of the pictures from swapping everything over. Also I have some pictures from when I Heli-Coiled the coolant flange holes on the head.
Here I'm using the timing belt tensioner to help guide my tap into the head. Worked great because it had a 6mm hole in it and a flat face to ensure the tap started in perpendicular to the head.
















Heli-Coil installation








All done:









Now here are some pictures from the swap over with a picture from how dirty my motor was. I still have some pictures on another camera that i wasn't able to get to that I'll try and upload another time this week, until then, here's how it went in one day.








Old motor and tranny yanked out with the tractor (I'm too cheap to buy an engine hoist)
















I know you can't see it well in this picture but the reason for my exhaust leak that I had, well, I had 3 leaks where the tubes are mounted to the exhaust flange that bolts to the head, Yes, 3! That's what 255k will do to parts

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By the way, it was 90* *IN THE SHADE* when I was swapping everything over
















My old *GREASY* transmission. I'd like to not that I installed the later mk4 shifter box, TT short shifter and shortened relay lever as well in this swap. Since I had everything out it was perfect timing. I installed the newer shift tower before removing the old tranny because I had the cables right there to adjust it.








My new beautiful motor:
































Heart transplant!
































































And it's in!!
















Yes, that's my Bentley on the windshield to ensure I had the correct torques on the engine mount bolts.








My dirty self that couldn't be happier I have my new motor in my car:








So far for an update to the motor and how it drives, so far so good. Still have the camshaft position error and I've adjusted my timing so I don't think that's the problem. later this week I'm going to rip back into the motor and see if there is an interference between the trigger wheel and the sensor. I remember when I assembled the motor I saw that there was very little there so I'm wondering if it may have been not enough or potentially the wheel hit the sensor. I'll report later once I fix the problem so you all know.

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## Pat @ Pitt Soundworks (Nov 14, 2008)

*FV-QR*

So what happened with that old manifold? Cracked where the ports met the flange?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Pat @ Pitt Soundworks)*

Ya, I believe they are cracked. You can see what looks to be a lot of blow by or gas leakage at that intersection. I'll get some pictures of all the leaks that it had. On my newer manifold I ported the crap out of the inside and welded up around the outside edge where the pipes meet the flange so I wouldn't get any leakage there.


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## Kameirocco (Dec 20, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

and why didn't youpaint your bay while the engine was out?! SLACKER!!! haha
j/k good job brian! keep up the good work


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## vdubxcrew (Jul 25, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

so hows the car running now? Get the issues buttoned up? Hows the low end torque compared to before and power under 4000rpm?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (vdubxcrew)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rommeldawg* »_Engine Oil, Gasoline Engine
All Temperatures SAE 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40
All Temperatures SAE 5W-30, 10W-50, 10W-60
Below 59°F (15°C) SAE 5W-30, 5W-40
Below 59°F (15°C) SAE 10W-30, 10W-40
Above 5°F (-15°C) SAE 15W-40, 15W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50
A - Energy Conserving
B - Multi-grade oil
Type API-SJ or API-SL
these are fluid specs for 99 golf with aeg

Thanks for the info on the oil choices. Never thought about the Energy Conserving portion of the oil weight. So I guess I will drop it down to 5w-30, especially with a new motor and everything has tight tolerances. 


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubxcrew* »_so hows the car running now? Get the issues buttoned up? Hows the low end torque compared to before and power under 4000rpm?


So far the car is running great! I haven't been able to mess with the cam position sensor as I had hoped I would've been able to by now. I have to get this damned 6-8 page paper done by next wednesday. So once again it'll be next week that I get to adjusting it.
For low end torque, it seems really good considering that it's running a bit rich on the bottom end since the CPS is giving an implausible signal. I currently have my timing at 4.5* advance and now the power kicks in around 2500ish and then again still at 4k. 
I'm at about 850 miles on the motor now and that means now as soon as I get the CPS fixed I'll be throwing it on the dyno. When I do do the dyno run, I'm gonna do a back to back run to verify the gains in HP from the ported stock intake mani by scientificrabbit.com . 
Another thing I was suggested to by a friend for the 1000 makr oil change was to take a sample of my oil and have it sent out for analyzing to it's contents, see how my motor is. This will give me a good baseline to how it ran when it was fresh. Now that I've already done one change, all the assembly lube should be out of there.


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

So I thought I might update this as I finally was able to get my CEL for the Camshaft Position Sensor error (Implausible signal) fixed. So it seems that the CPS that I bought brand new (Meyle brand) didn't work at all( at least sending the correct signal). I knew the one from the other motor worked just fine so I opted to swap that one in. 
Come to compare the other one, OEM VW made by Bosch, and there is a slight difference. The one by Bosch has a bit larger opening between the nodes for the trigger wheel to go through, say roughly 0.025". I dropped that one in and reassembled and cleared the CEL and viola- No more CEL. 
I got to thinking about this and I wonder if it's the spacing or opening between the nodes that was causing it to get the implausible signal. Though it could have very well just been that I got a faulty unit. Unfortunately I can't return it's because it's a used electrical item. 
Since getting that all cleared up and such I have noticed the C2 software adapting to it. Idle feels a bit smoother and stomping the go pedal from a stop doesn't make it feel as though it's bogging down anymore. Though I *think* I notice what feels to be a flat spot in the power around 4k now. Not entirely sure about that as it could have been the road that I was on. 
Last night I did some data logging about the rpm's, injector timing, MAF readings etc... as soon as I get those all sorted out I'll post them here so you all can see what this motor is doing.
On another note, I'm about to hit my 1k mile oil change which means now that my car IS CELfree (knocks on wood) I can go and get it thrown on the dyno.


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## seattle111 (Jul 17, 2008)

So has the engine smoothed out more? Got those specs yet? 
any updates


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (seattle111)*

So far yes, the engine has smoothed out. I think I have about 1700 miles on it so far since changing it over a month ago. When I did the last oil change at about 1300 mile mark I put in some 5w-30 and noticed a difference in the motor. Now it holds the rpm's longer and WILL NOT die on me when I turn the A/C on!








Ya, go figure... with that heavier oil and the LW flywheel I would be at an idle and turn the A/C on to only have the motor cut out on me.








I'm actually not so certain now that I would do another flywheel like this. I think I actually miss the heavier one, especially having to change my driving style some. 
Next week I will have an appointment for some dyno time. Just need to get my MSD ignition installed and I should be good to go. 
Oh ya, I'm currently running 4.5* advance on my cam gear but thinking about dropping it back to 3*. I miss that huge kick at the higher rpm's.


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## Blaze One (Sep 3, 2005)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Great thread ... can't wait to see gains and power curve ... How does it sound with the cam ? 
Did you do any exhaust mods from the header back ?


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (Blaze One)*

Thanks!
With the cam it definitely has some lope to it! As I told a friend, "it's got more lope than a sine wav!" haha








For exhaust... all I've done is just hack off the muffler and put some pipe in place. I want to get a TT high flow cat and either 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust with the Borla muffler.
Gonna research what it'd cost me to at least get the exhaust now and cat later. Just have to see what my bank account can afford. Kind of drained it to finish off the motor.


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## Shifty (Mar 25, 2004)

*Re: (TMTuned99.5Golf)*

Nice build bro, glad to see she's running. How about a video??


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## ak47tdi (Jul 8, 2005)

*Re: (Shifty)*

Resurrection








Dyno numbers?


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## dubbinway (Apr 24, 2007)

*Re: (ak47tdi)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ak47tdi* »_Resurrection








Dyno numbers?

What he said!


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## TMTuned99.5Golf (Jan 27, 2004)

*Re: (dubbinway)*

heh, right now I'm trying to get the motor going.
I spun a rod bearing due to a dent in the oil pan sometime last fall. I mean a dent, no scrapes or proof to where it came from, just a dent. That was right next to the pickup tube so I got oil starvation and wasted the bearing and my crank.
I rebuilt it and installed everything and now I have an oil pressure issue. Too high or too low I don't know and won't until my gauges come in.
I'm thinking a blocked passage cause my oil is fine at idle but the idiot light comes on just after I start to rev it up. I have a thread about that problem here somewhere. Plus I also have one about the rebuild that I haven't added to due to this currrent problem that's frusterating the crap outta me. 
Believe me, I wanna get it dynoed but I can't until I get the damned thing running.


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## logan g (Feb 20, 2010)

read through this entire thread only to be majorly disappointed. I'm looking to do a build almost identical to this. I know it's a long shot after 4 years but if anyone is still around do you know if there were ever official numbers on what the motor put down?


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## Aricu (Jan 19, 2016)

*So did you ever finish*

Hi TMTuned99.5Golf, so did you ever finish and dyno the build. I'm new to the Mk4 Game; New to the Mechanics game but pick up a nice 99.5 White Golf 2.0 AEG to try to get into this and am so disappointed. I have found a few threads and minior videos BUT SOMETHING always goes wrong.. The one guy started and then changed the head to a 16 V which I don't want the other VIDEO has a part 1 never a part 2. Do you guys know of any successful builds? O and always think I find good parts for the car and they are always for something else...


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

Nice job on all that head work! :thumbup: Nice seeing 8V's getting some :heart:


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