# Mk2 Main Fuel Pump Restoration



## Czaruno (Jul 19, 2001)

I am practicing my restoration skills on the main fuel pump assembly for my 91 GTI 16V. This pump was one I purchased to replace the original which I will also try to restore. Left modern fuel too long in the tank and it has damaged the fuel system. Non-Ethanol fuel from now on when things are back to normal.

Going to have to upgrade my tools to get better results.

Any tips are welcome, rust is the enemy!

↓ Starting Point ↓









↓ Evil crud inside ↓









↓ Some Parts cleaned up easy ↓









↓ This is going to be the larger challenge on this small project ↓









↓ Trying to start with some basic tools, will likely have to upgrade to a Bench Grinder with a wirewheel on it ↓









↓ Progress too slow so far, wish me luck ↓


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## Czaruno (Jul 19, 2001)

*Trying some Naval Jelly today*

Many people have sworn by Naval Jelly for a long time, I am sure there are better sovents around today but I had this and thought I would try it.

↓ Naval Jelly and Rusty Fuel Pump Bracket ↓









↓ 'Apply Liberally↓









↓ After 15 Minutes, then a water rinse, better but not perfect ↓









↓ Trying it again now, going to leave it a couple of hours - hopefully it does not eat away at the metal or something ↓









↓ After 40 minutes or so, results are about the same. Searched around a bit and it seems if you let the gel dry, it solidifies and then you have to remove it with abrasives or more jelly.. So I did not let it dry ↓










Will have to try something else for better results. Apparently a liquid called EvapoRust is used by some. Will look that up..


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## rommeldawg (May 25, 2009)

well i think you need to use something more aggressive to remove the rust down to metal then look at jay lenos stuff for different rust preventative coatings that will also encapsulate to prevent further progression. the other alternative of course is to remake it from sheet metal


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## Mr.loops (May 27, 2010)

Personally, I would take the parts a automotive machine shop and get everything bead blasted (obviously not the plastic bits). I can't imagine the costs would be much higher going this route, than buying rust removing products

As rommeldawg mentioned, make sure you use a rust preventive paint on those metal bits


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## so.cal.sparky (Nov 9, 2006)

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I've had good luck with Apple cider vinegar soak for 24 to 36 hrs rinse with water and baking soda. Then either grease/wax part or prime and paint .

Go to the dollar store and buy your cleaning supplies and plastic bins


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## Czaruno (Jul 19, 2001)

Thanks all for the tips. I called a local machine shop and they said that without a large enough batch of stuff to media blast, I would not be happy with the cost of just this one part. So I pressed on trying things myself. 

I went and bought a wire wheel to help.









After the naval jelly did not seem to work that well, I tried apple cider vinegar. I bet if I had left the naval jelly much longer, it would have worked as well. I was afraid of it hardening and becoming a bigger mess. So onto vinegar as my next attempt.

I left the metal submerged in vinegar for five days. I then took it out and used a wire brush to brush away lots of the remaining rust spots. I then hit it with the wire wheel which took off some more. I then submerged it for another two days after which the results were probably as good as it gets. One more round with the wire wheel and the hard to get areas with the dremel and this is where thing are today.

















Next up some primer:


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## Mr.loops (May 27, 2010)

That turned out well - good work


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## Czaruno (Jul 19, 2001)

*A little more progress*

This has been moving along slowly.

Here is what the racket looked like after a few coats of primer:
















I then turned my attention to all the fasteners and rubber bits - (Sorry for the bad lighting indoors, need to work on that).

This is how they started:









I put most of the metal pieces in apple cider vinegar for about a week:









Then I used a stiff brush and then a wire brush on my dremel to clean things up some more. Most of the rust came off easily:









Things looked better but still had some rust on it:









So I put it back in fresh apple cider vinegar for another week:









Meanwhile I turned my attention to the rubber bits and hit them with the dremel+wirebrush:
















And this is what things look like today after being sprayed with WD40 to prevent surface rust:
















At this point I am actually not sure what my options are for preventing these parts from rusting again. I assume the WD40 will just wash off from water under the car. I checked with a local place and they were hesitant to zink plate a small number of parts. They suggested that I buy new fasteners whenever possible and not try to reuse old hardware like this. The washers are probably easy to find and maybe the hex bolts and metal screws but those banjo bolts will probably be expensive. The more I spend here,  the less I have to spend elsewhere on the car so I would like to reuse as much as possible and use my own time to save money where possible so I can leave the 'outsourced' spending on areas I can't do myself like welding and bodywork.

Maybe just paint the thin metal pieces that go around the rubber isolators, but the rest of the fasteners I can't paint..

Any advice on how to add long term rust resistance to these parts before I put them back on the car would be welcome.


thanks,

Larry


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