# R32 Brakes terrible....WTH?!



## codesniper1313 (Jun 6, 2009)

My friend and I took his MKIV R32 out to the track today, and much to our displeasure, the brakes sucked. We had to double pump into EVERY braking zone, and lost a lot of acceleration distance just trying to get the brakes to set. I didn't drive, but the driver was complaining that every time he braked, his foot was to the floor, literally. It seems like the calipers are floating out in the corners, and then they have to reset before each time you brake. I mean, my Jetta doesn't do that, and we were in an .:R32. WTF? 

Has anyone else noticed this kinda crap going on? Any possible solutions? It just pisses me off that we're in a car basically built for the track and it's not even fun to drive because your brakes are trying to kill you.

Things I know are not the problem: recently bled brakes, 95% pad F&R, new rotors.


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

codesniper1313 said:


> My friend and I took his MKIV R32 out to the track today, and much to our displeasure, the brakes sucked. We had to double pump into EVERY braking zone, and lost a lot of acceleration distance just trying to get the brakes to set. I didn't drive, but the driver was complaining that every time he braked, his foot was to the floor, literally. It seems like the calipers are floating out in the corners, and then they have to reset before each time you brake. I mean, my Jetta doesn't do that, and we were in an .:R32. WTF?
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this kinda crap going on? Any possible solutions? It just pisses me off that we're in a car basically built for the track and it's not even fun to drive because your brakes are trying to kill you.
> 
> Things I know are not the problem: recently bled brakes, 95% pad F&R, new rotors.


What Pad? Try bleeding it again if you have air and you where 100% sure it was bleed properly before and have air bleeding out your prob boiling the fluid which makes air/gas . Get high temp brake fluid like 450 degree and up , get decent pad like HP+( it will squel a bit on the street and dust a bit thou) bleed it good again , bed the pads in and you should be all set for your next event no pumping needed  Bob.G


p.s. I would also suggest Tyrlosport pins stiffener kit to keep the pads nice and square when braking hard also If you dont like the noise and dust from HP+ get the HPS which is good to about 950 degrees and has almost no dust basically a good street performance pad , but you will give up a bit on the braking side everything has its trade offs.


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## codesniper1313 (Jun 6, 2009)

rracerguy717 said:


> What Pad? Try bleeding it again if you have air and you where 100% sure it was bleed properly before and have air bleeding out your prob boiling the fluid which makes air/gas . Get high temp brake fluid like 450 degree and up , get decent pad like HP+


Pads are Hawk HPS. And we re-bled, after we got back a couple hours ago. He only uses ATE Super Blue, so I KNOW it's not the brakes boiling. We test drove it after bleeding, and it's the same REALLY long pedal stroke and soft, soft feel. It's the weirdest thing, I swear.

About the stiffening kit, do you have one? If so, I'm guessing it works???

Thanks, BTW.

*edit*- + test drive.


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

codesniper1313 said:


> Pads are Hawk HPS. And we re-bled, after we got back a couple hours ago. He only uses ATE Super Blue, so I KNOW it's not the brakes boiling. We test drove it after bleeding, and it's the same REALLY long pedal stroke and soft, soft feel. It's the weirdest thing, I swear.
> 
> About the stiffening kit, do you have one? If so, I'm guessing it works???
> 
> ...


re-bleed again and take the car out ( not on the track ) and do ONE or TWO hard stops if it stops nice then the ATE super blue was boiling .These cars are boats and have alot of weight hence very hard on brakes. Im gonna still going with it was boiling, ATE is really not rated high . 
Get mogul or some other higher rated fluid . Bob.G


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

I'm actually having the exact same problem with my GTI. Current consensus on the diagnosis: master cylinder. For me ...it's not the pads (hawk blue) and it's not the fluid (motul 660). I'll let you know.

Sidenote, the tyrolsport kit is worth far more than it costs. You won't be disappointed.


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

codesniper1313 said:


> We had to double pump into EVERY braking zone, and lost a lot of acceleration distance just trying to get the brakes to set. .


Check the brake check valve, at high rpm manifold pressure doesn't actuate the check valve and you have to double pump, first one opens the valve, second will let pressure increase and brakes to work.

I had this until I swapped to 337 brakes and it went away.....doesn't make sense but it did!?:screwy:


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

the plastic tube with the check valve in it from the manifold to the booster?


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

Yep! I know a for sure cure all is an electric pump from a TDi but like I said mine when away when I did a brake upgrade!? Weird but true.


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## codesniper1313 (Jun 6, 2009)

gehr said:


> Check the brake check valve, at high rpm manifold pressure doesn't actuate the check valve and you have to double pump, first one opens the valve, second will let pressure increase and brakes to work.


I will certainly look into that. Anything I should be looking for that would not be normal?

I'll keep you posted...


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

well, it's not a master cylinder or the hose with the check valve. I'm about to switch up to the larger gli/337 brakes sometime soon anyway, and even though I'm having a very hard time seeing it be the calipers... I dunno, I'm stumped.


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

Yep, like I said, after the brake upgrade it went away :screwy:........my buddy was stumped why it would go away as well. 

It is definitely a high rpm manifold pressure thing, and theoretically the only change I made was the rear calipers (besides the rotor size), maybe the stock rear calipers are to blame!?!?!  :laugh:

It's funny though, I totally got use to double pumping the brake at the end of a fast straight before the upgrade mystery fix.


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

here's a thought. was your parking brake getting squishy before the swap?


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

Nope, but I see where you are going.......good thought! :thumbup:


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

just trying to dig up... well, anything.


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## codesniper1313 (Jun 6, 2009)

So here's the latest update...still having issues.

Replaced:
-Master Cylinder
-Front Brake lines w/ steel braided
-RE-Bled, twice.

Result:
-Pedal still super spongy, easily pushed to the floor under hard braking.
-Car now dives HARD right. It can't be an air bubble b/c we bled twice to make sure we pulled fluid all the way through.

WTF!?


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

codesniper1313 said:


> So here's the latest update...still having issues.
> 
> Replaced:
> -Master Cylinder
> ...


In bold is telling you where your problem IMO 

If its diving hard right then the LEFT front not getting brake fluid IMO . 
You getting good fluid flow out of the LEFT front when you bleed it? possible colapsed line internally? Something funny like that. I would take the LEFT cailper off and compress the piston in slowely while the bleeder is cracked then lock the bleeder down put it back and try that . 

Good luck dont give up  Bob.G


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## KG18t (Aug 9, 2006)

Update to my problem. I killed the front piston side pads... more specifically, bent them. I was standing on the brakes so damn hard that they're concave now. Have you replaced pads yet?


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