# Chasing a GT-30 dream



## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Idle wants to stick at 2,000 rpm---Help me out turbo guys!*

1


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## toy_vw (Feb 11, 2006)

still using an ISV? is the throttle sticking by chance?


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## Shawn B (Nov 27, 2003)

*Re: (toy_vw)*


_Quote, originally posted by *toy_vw* »_still using an ISV? is the throttle sticking by chance?

That's what I was thinking too.


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## VEE-DUBBER (Nov 22, 2000)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

you still running the factory t body? if you are the idle switch on there isn't contacting when you let off the gas. adjust the switch and the throttle cable. sounds like a fast car. My gti 16v had the same problem. the isle switch adjustment fixed it. not sure if the DTA is reading from that. Bring it to this side of the mountains so I can drive it and help you out
no question is a dumb one......well actually that is a horrible lie. but yours isn't. That's how you learn. buy the car all built or had it built i'm assuming since you do not know the parts we speak of?










_Modified by VEE-DUBBER at 11:56 PM 4-11-2008_


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## VEE-DUBBER (Nov 22, 2000)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

Bring it over here to Speedware Motorsports. we can fix it for you no problems with top quality work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## rabbit_hmpr (Jan 24, 2008)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

I thought i showed you how to post already? Ill have to show you soon! Of you can email me the pic and I can post it. Just let me know dude. 

So whats this about friday night?

P.S. Pretty sure Bailey is Preggers.









- Humper of thine Rabbits


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## AlbertoB1 (Dec 29, 2007)

*Re: (rabbit_hmpr)*

You can move your throttle cable back a few spots, but every space you move it the RPM changes anywhere from 200ish to 500ish


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## 84RabbitGTI-T (Jun 23, 2003)

Check for vacuum/boost leaks before you go changing maps, there should be no reason why your map should be changed if it was running fine before.


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## AlbertoB1 (Dec 29, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

Pics of_* Amsterdam087 *_car and setup:
























































http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
_Modified by AlbertoB1 at 1:21 PM 4-16-2008_

_Modified by AlbertoB1 at 1:23 PM 4-16-2008_
Sorry it took so long, wife was hogging computer

_Modified by AlbertoB1 at 1:23 PM 4-16-2008_


_Modified by AlbertoB1 at 9:24 AM 4-17-2008_


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## DWI_gti (Jan 12, 2004)

*Re: (AlbertoB1)*

hey I do see an ISV in the second to last picture but it looks like its not wired up. if the car was tuned with an isv and it got dissconected it could cause all these problems you are having.


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## dreadlocks (May 24, 2006)

ARP Studs are all black with bolts that look like the two pictured above.. (there not head studs but the nuts look the same)
but I am pretty sure oem on yer motor are bolts anywase, pretty easy to tell the difference between a stretch bolt and and a stud (ie, it got nuts?)


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## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

I can realize why you are freaking out, but take a deep breath.
ARP head studs have 13mm/ 1/2 inch 12 point nuts. If they are the newer style they will also have allen key reliefs but into the top of the head studs to make installation easier. Stock head studs do not have a nut, they are long bolts and require a 12 point socket as well that fits 'into' the head of the bolt - kind of like allen bolts, but they are 12 point instead.
You should not need to drop the compression anymore if you really have 9.3:1 compression. Doing so will probably only make your car a dog down low when you are off boost.
Remove the head and inspect the piston tops. See if there is pitting. Also, take a good look at the plugs. If the electrodes are fine, chances are you didn't detonate and your pistons are probably in good shape. When I blew up my motor I really blew it up and the spark plug electrodes were gone, the piston tops were chewed up pretty bad and the piston skirts were cracked. This was all before I got a wideband and learned how to tune myself. I took it to someone who tuned it too lean up top. Maybe that is what happened to you.
Depending on what your hp goals are, you may not need to go forged pistons. Lots of people are running stock pistons and use stacked headgaskets or a spacer to to lower compression and get 300 hp. How long will the motor last, who knows?
BUT, think of it this way. If your car needs to be tuned further, best to blow up a stock motor then one with shiny, expensive forged pistons. Once you get the tune down right you can switch to forged pistons if you want. You may decide never to do it.
If I were you I would pull the head and inspect the things I mentioned. If they check out right, bolt it all back together and spend the $550 you would have spent on pistons on getting the car tuned correctly.


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## 16volt (Oct 26, 2000)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

wow. 
So yes the tune was done without the ISV. DTA was having trouble getting enogh resolution to control the ISV. It does have the option though. You'll probably be better off with an ISV from something simpler. 
DO NOT GO INTO THE MAPS. If you dont know what your doing you will flush months of work down the tubes and have a car that wont do anything. 

The car should be running studs, I cant remember off the top of my head. The entire rotating mass was balanced and blueprinted by Colin at Techtonics who also did the dish on the pistons. So if your rebuilding youll want to do this again with some forged JEs. 
If you drop the C/R you will be starting from scratch with tuning. I hope your prepared to spend a fair amount of time on the dyno getting a new tune. 
That car and turbo was fully a 300whp car. The boost was low to keep the wheelspin down and be easy on the pistons. 
You picked a heck of a car to learn on. 


_Modified by 16volt at 11:12 AM 4-19-2008_


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## Hybrid VW (Jan 18, 2001)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Amsterdam087* »_Upon removing the head, I got on the phone with Bahn Brenner and ordered every gasket I could for my application, including but not limited to a pretty sparkly one that will aid in dropping the compression level just a tad-bit more so that when I get her all buttoned back up I won't have to sweet so much if I decide to run more boost.









Please don't just arbitrarily drop the C/R! The motor was built and tuned for 9:1, and if you only want 300whp, there's no need to lower it at all. If you do that, and want the car to run properly, you're going to have to fully retune the ECU, and the TUNE should be fine as is. If you're having any issues with the engine, they're most likely hardware related, so just FIX them. If you go looking for "fixes" to non existent problems, we'll see that car up for sale again, for a MUCH lower price and needing MUCH more work








It really sounds like you're out of your knowledge base, and are looking to throw money at the car and hope that it fixes the problem.
Edit to add: click the EFI101 link in my sig- they're going to have a class in W.WA in June, and it will REALLY help you understand what happens between your engine and ECU.


_Modified by Hybrid VW at 9:30 AM 4-19-2008_


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## Hybrid VW (Jan 18, 2001)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Amsterdam087* »_Look guys,
I understand that you have alot of admiration for the car, and I'm sure the previous owner was a cool guy and very knowledable. BUT, this is one of my dream cars. I have been working hard for almost four years putting away money, working overtime like a slave. So I assure you it wont be run into the ground. I sincerely care about this car. And yes, I might not know everything about everything when it comes to turbo cars but god damnitt I'm willing to learn all I can.

I'm just saying this for you to take into consideration- you say this is one of your dream cars, and you sincerely care for it. That's a good base, but think about this. It wasn't enough of a dream for you to buy a good, solid base car and take the time, money, effort, and learning process to make the car yourself (heck, I paid someone to do some of the work on my car when I didn't have time/resources to do it myself). Now consider the fact that this car was #2 for the builder after his first turbo 16V was stolen, gutted, and recovered. That vertical weld in the downpipe about 2" away from the turbine outlet? That's where the thieves cut the downpipe to rip the engine out of his first car







If you want to talk about dreams and passion and schit, think about what it took to build the car in the first place, and take that into consideration before you go throwing parts at it http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 84RabbitGTI-T (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Amsterdam087* »_Take this into consideration-
By buying a car that was already built up, turbo'd, and beefed up I am money ahead. Sure I could have been the guy who bought a nearly stock car and over the course of two or three years build it up and make it close to what I have. That is not the car I was looking for. I bought this one be cause it's what I wanted. I don't want a stock car to build up on this one. Already did that sir. 
I don't want to sound rude or anyhting, but we all have different ideas and dreams. Mine contained buying an already turbo car that someone had loved, and moved on from. Works out for both parties if you ask me. I don't mind you not agreeing with what I am doing, but don't hate just to hate. If you have a comment good or bad and feel the need to express it than by all means click on that little reply button and sound off. Thanks for all the words, kind, positive, negitive, rude, assinine, whatever. Because that is what this site is for and who am I to stop you.










http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 84RabbitGTI-T (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

My personal favorite since I don't like to spend a whole lot of money unnecessarily are the good ole' Bosch Supers gapped at .25, I'm down probably $6-$7 bucks and I have never had a problem.


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## 84RabbitGTI-T (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

Yes, turbo gap. And yes there is a diff in gap between turbo and n/a, normally you would want a closer gap on turbo cars to avoid the amt of cfm rushing thourgh the combustion chamber to blow your spark off. Kinda light blowing a birthday candle.


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## Angular (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

Congrats on the purchase, Tyler. 
As 16volt and Hybrid VW mentioned, I put a ridiculous amount of time, money, blood, sweat, and tears into that car. It's funny because sometimes I think they are more emotional about it than I am. For what it's worth, they are both very good friends of mine and have nothing but the best intentions.
I never could get DTA to play well with the OEM VW idle stabilizer valve (ISV) so that's why it was left unplugged. I'm surprised to hear the headgasket blew. At one time I thought about using the metal G60 style head gasket but didn't consider it necessary for the modest boost levels I inteded to run. Plus I think there was a possible issue with the oil and coolant drain holes matching up? Man... it's been a long time!








I hope you enjoy the car as much as I did. Sounds like it found a good home. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Bradley



_Modified by Angular at 2:17 PM 4-23-2008_


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## Angular (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

On the subject of power, this is the last dyno pull I did while I still owned the car. I usually ran 10 PSI, never more than 12.


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## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

sounds like you have a lot of enthusiasm. Chanel some of that into buying a Bentley manual and a good set of tools so that you can start working on the car yourself. Replacing headgaskets is pretty easy stuff when you know what you are doing. Just a suggestion b/c custom cars usually need constant maintenance. Hell, old VWs (even stock ones) need constant maintenance so it is best to start learning how to do it yourself. Otherwise you are going to pay out the nose for mechanics fees. Good luck.


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (vfarren)*


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


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## Angular (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

You scored a 16V Scirocco Bentley manual? Man, that was lucky! I've got one here somewhere you could have along with quite a few other parts. I had a brand new set of cross drilled rear rotors that never made it on the car. Not sure if those went with the car to Tim or not. Anyway, I've still got boxes and boxes of spare parts still that I need to get rid of, including an ABA short block, so if you've got a truck and wanna drive over to Seattle, let me know. Mostly I'm too lazy to try to sell any of it.


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*









Finally got this bad boy last nite. Just waiting on the new seals, belts, etc. 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

*Re: (Angular)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Angular* »_On the subject of power, this is the last dyno pull I did while I still owned the car. I usually ran 10 PSI, never more than 12.









That tune looks a bit lean in the ~3000-4800 range, especially on 91oct.... I wouldn't be surprised if it detonated and caused all these problems.
I like the powerband though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (sp_golf)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks


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## vfarren (Sep 11, 2000)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

Is that a spacer gasket? If so, why are you putting that on?? The compression ratio was already lowered by dishing the pistons. What you need to do is spend your $ on refining the tune. That is 'if' the tune is off.
As to the previous poster. Whether it is lean or not depends on what the boost curve looks like. I can't remember if the poster said when boost kicked in, so you may be right.
Does the car have the original turbo that it was tuned on? If it was changed, you will probably need to refine the tune.


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## Angular (Mar 12, 2002)

*Re: (vfarren)*

I'm not sure how accurate the AFR readings were on that dyno run. When I tuned the car using the wideband O2 sensor (that should still be installed), I always aimed for around 12 when under boost. To the best of my knowledge, detonation was never a problem. Heck, my 2002 Audi S4 pings more than that Scirocco ever did.


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*

Tonite should about wrap up the work that needed to be done. Just in time to as my older brother is flying in from Vegas for the weekend.
Catch everyone up on details tomorrow after work.


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## Amsterdam087 (Dec 31, 2007)

*Re: (Amsterdam087)*










Damn it feels good to be a ganster!








(Sorry, last song I heard today)


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