# ADY 2.0l 8V with t3\t4 turbo and megasquirt ms-2 3.57 pcb in a old a80quattro



## h2k (Feb 24, 2010)

The topic basicly tells most of the story, but as I am having trouble finding relevant information on others trying the same setup as I do...I figured it was about time to make a forum thread myself. Not only to get help, but also to give it if somebody decides to try this. So here goes:
I have an old 1986 Audi GTE quattro, it has a 1.8 8v 112hp engine, same as golf2 gti 8v. The car is a 4 door sedan and is similar to the legendary UR Quattro with manual differential locks and weight distribution. Last year I bought a Passat G60 syncro as a donatorvehicle. I took out the engine, removed the g-lader and put on a t3 turbomanifold of cast steel. I chipped the ecu with a Neuspeed performancechip, changed cams and bolted it in my quattro with the digifant ecu that came with the passat. Sporting a t3\t4e garrett ebay copy turbo I had around 220hp when boosting 0.8 bar and the car ran great. But the digifant ecu is really stone age, the engine responded randomly in accelerations. Sometimes it came on strong, sometimes it just felt like a snail even tough the turbo came on boost.
So I bought a 1995 VW Vento\Jetta with a 2.0l 8v engine with lots of modern sensors. It's a high compression engine with 116hp, it has electronic fuel injection manifold with a throttle that has TPS signal. The engine block has a magnetic VE sensor and the crank has a built in bosch 60-2 missing tooth wheel as crank tach output. The engine also has oil squirters beneath the pistons to cool them. it has a locked distributor with cam sensor built in. This looked like a perfect match to add a programmable ecu.
Previously I have worked alot on japanese turbocars like 200sx, skylines etc with apexi power-fc ecu's so I have some experience mapping. But I have never made a complete wiring harness from scratch like this.
Since I have limited soldering and electronics knowledge I ordered a pre-assembled MegaSquirt II with 3.57 pcb. Not really knowing what I ordered, I also ordered a DB37 connector wiring harness, a GM water temp sensor and a air temp sensor.
The ecu came in a neat box with the wire harness and something that looked like a very good wiring diagram. 
Fuel: The ADY Engine has individual wiring for each injector, megasquirt supports batch and simultanious firing. So I parallel coupled inj 1-4 and 2-3 into bank 1 and 2 on the megasquirt. This will allow me to run launch control along with wasted spark in the future. The engine has bosch injectors that are supposed to be 196cc with a 3 bar fpr.
Sensors: The GM air and clt sensors are easy to wire up following the diagram. Throttle body has a large plastic lump with tps. It has a connector with 8 pins. Pin 4(red\black wire) needs 5v reference signal from the megasquirt ecu and Pin 5(red\blue) is the tps output signal that goes into the ecu. Configuring the the sensor in megasquirt software is very easy and self explaining.
The bosch 60-2 crank position sensor. The sensor has 3 wires, one beeing 12+, one signal in the middle and ground(-) on the other. When I first tried I could not get the engine to run, in fact I could not get a rpm signal to the ecu. Nothing appeared to work. When putting 12v into the sensor, I would only read around 1.0v on the output signal. When cranking it would drop to around 0.5v. After a lot of reading on megasquirt forums and manuals(which are very messy btw) I found out I actually had to solder a 1k ohm resistor between the 12v wire and signal wire. Where the hell was I supposed to get such a resistor? I live in a small town with limited stores nearby, most such things have to be ordered on the internet, taking weeks to get. I started shredding old cd players, radios and electronics and measuring the resistors until I finally find a 1k ohm resistor on a old sony cd player. After soldering this on I finally got a rpm signal, it seems you have to lift the signal from 1v to 12v in order for the megasquirt to read the fluctuations in the signal.
At this point I am kind of pissed of at megasquirt, because I have no experience at electronic modifications. I know how to solder a wire yes, but not on a pcb. I know 12v + and I know ground(-), I do know know resistors, driving chips, coil drivers and how to jumper pins etc.
Now when I first had a rpm signal into the ecu it showed very wrong values, when cranking it showed I had 4000rpm and would not start. The ignition pulses I got with a strobe timing light was very confusing.
The correct settings in Advanced Ignition Options is:
Trigger wheel: 60
Missing teeth: 2
Skip teeth: 30 (because we want 2 tach signals on each revolution of the crank)
Delay teeth: 13 (I took out the sensor, manually turned the crank untill I found the 2 missing teeth, I then turned the engine clockwise untill I found TDC while counting the tops of the teeth)
With the stock fuelmap on the megasquirt ms-2 3.57 ecu I was able to start the engine with this. The ignition is locked to TDC with no advance, it is barely able to run on idle and dies out on high rpms. Alot of more adjustments have to be made and lots of more work. But since this post is getting massive textwise I'll finish of here and post more later. If anybody here has successfully done a megasquirt ms-2 on their newer 8v engines please follow this post to help me


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## mk1vw (Oct 17, 2007)

*Re: ADY 2.0l 8V with t3\t4 turbo and megasquirt ms-2 3.57 pcb in a old a80quattro (h2k)*

that was a pretty substantial first post.
good luck with the project.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

*FV-QR*

Strange you had to fit a pullup, I've used 3.57's before with hall sensors without one. I do know that the pullup is 1k to 5v on the input, and I use a 5v supply voltage. There's a good chance if you use 5v instead of 12v it'll work right out of the box. 
The US 2l 8v (ABA) uses a VR sensor, so you won't find much on hall crank sensors here.
What are your jumper positions? If you're using the VR circuit (JP1 1/2 jumpered, J1 3/4 jumpered) you will need to make sure that both of the VR pots (R52/53) are both fully counterclockwise. 
I always use 'extra' code on MS2 so I can't really comment on the ignition settings. Just make sure your timing values in the MS match a timing light before continuing. If you have the advanced locked out, you'll die out at high revs.
That all being said, most of the MS users and good information are in the carb/itb/sem forum.


_Modified by need_a_VR6 at 9:48 PM 3-1-2010_


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## mk1vw (Oct 17, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (need_a_VR6)*

friends install with V3.57 on a MK2 8V with hall sender dist ignition didn't need the pullup either. we ran 5v to the hall.


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