# Jetta Hybrid DSG 7 dry. Mechatronic problem (Engyne start-stop-start continously)



## emelum (Jan 9, 2018)

Hi, I would like to share with you the problem I have suffered in my Jetta, and the solution I have apply, in case someone else may benefit of this.

Please, note I am not a professional mechanic, I just like it. When you do this kind of repairs you are assuming some risks, please, always secure your safety as the first priority, and keep in mind that you may generate a worse problem if you don’t have the correct knowledge. So please, be careful and have fun!

My car is a Jetta Hybrid Sport European version, but it is the same car as the one delivered in the Americas. (I think this is like SLI in the US).

The Problem: As soon as the car try to enter in electrical mode, by disconnect the petrol engine, it automatically switch on the petrol engine again. This sequence is repeated continuously. 

The diagnostic output: If you run the diagnose test on your car, you would get a pressure problem in the hydraulic pump. Inside the automatic transmission (DSG7)

What is really happening? 
-	The mechatronic unit can not keep the pressure of the hydraulic fluid when the car enter in electric mode.
-	This can be checked by displaying the values in the groups 30 and 31 in diagnostic software.
-	The device which is activated when the engine goes to electric is the actuator for disengagement clutch (the K0). This is a piston which can be found on the top of the mechatronic unit. The valve block they call it. (The cable connected in the picture below was just to test the operation, it is 12 Vdc. You don need to do it)










Dealer solution:
-	By VW protocol, any problem in the mechatronics area means, it will be substituted. No investigation at the local workshop. So, that means in Europe around 2500€ problem 

The solution I found after some investigation as you can imagine:
-	I disassemble the valve block (you can do it directly, there is no need to remove nothing else from the car), and I found a 10 euro piston groove ring broken!!!
-	After replace the part, everything works fine 

In the picture below, you can see the piston, the broken groove is the one in the right of the picture










Below you can see the groove broken….










Of course, you need to be extremely careful with some critical points:
1-	Please, remember to remove the fuse for the hydraulic pump!!!: If you fail to do that, the pump will automatically start as you disassemble the valve block (Because the pressure drops below a certain level…) and imagine the mess you will create… Also, you need to be sure there is no pressure on the tank. But if you remove the pump fuse, and you start the car, the pressure will go to 0.
2-	Very important after you complete the assembly, to bleed the hydraulic valve block and pipeline to the K0 attached. If you fail to do that, the car will not be able to operate K0 so will not enter in electric mode for quite a long time (can be days). Generating fail codes in the engine unit will appear. Not a big issue, but K0 could decrease life due to improper operation and according to your driving way.
a.	You can bleed the K0 by executing a command in the diagnostic SW (quite risky if you don’t know what you are doing)
b.	You can remove the big screw on top of the valve block and add some hydraulic fluid there. Not perfect but will help a lot.
3-	Please, be sure you have 1 liter of hydraulic fluid, as you need to change all the fluid in the mechatronic unit. (one litter is the total unit required capacity 16€)
4-	Purchase the FTE 28308L01 groove see below (10€)












Good luck and I hope this helps someone else… !!!!


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## Daniel Reynolds (Jun 12, 2018)

*Need help*

Hey! I was not able to see the images attached. I am in desperate need of help.

My 2013 Jetta is doing the same thing. They quoted me $7,000 USD for a whole new transmission. One dealership said only the mechatronics unit needed to be repaired. Can you give me more info on your repair please?

Thank you so much!


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## emelum (Jan 9, 2018)

*pics sent...*

I have sent to you via mail...


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## GromitD90 (Sep 14, 2018)

*Also need pics*

@emulem. Thank you for posting this. My 2013 Jetta Hybrid has a similar problem. Could you be so kind as to forward the pictures to my email address also.

My local dealer is telling me that the entire transmission and mechatronic unit needs to be replaced at a cost of nearly $6000 . That is more than the car is worth.

The only error code I see is P0841.

Are the parts needed to repair or replace the valve block readily available?

Thanks in advance
Mike


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## Andy9911 (Feb 14, 2019)

Do you happen to still have the pictures and other associated information needed for this repair? My 2013 SEL Hybrid started doing the same thing Tuesday morning. My car went out of warranty 4 months ago so I really don't want to pay the full mechatronics price they are quoting me.


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## Otto_Nobetter (Dec 19, 2018)

*@Emelum's post WITH PICS and my experience with this issue*

I have experienced the same problem with my Jetta Hybrid, that being the system not able to operate in electric mode. At stop signs it cycles back and forth from "Ready" to "Engine" mode on the multi-function display. 

@Daniel Reynolds was so kind as to provide me a copy of @Emelum's original post, complete with pictures and I share it with you all here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O-Xc-FViavZeAPOQQEp_HgK5BgPolJXG/view?usp=sharing

A few notes from my experience that future readers may find helpful:

- The valve block is located on top of the transmission between the engine and electric motor and can be accessed by lifting the secondary air box out of the way.

- I wasn't able to determine which fuses(s) would deactivate the hydraulic pump in the transmission as recommended by @Emelum so I unhooked the 12 volt battery in the side compartment of the trunk. Problem solved.

- The damage to the seal (groove ring) in the my actuator looked identical to the picture in @Emelum's write-up. Just it tiny crack.

- After days of trying unsuccessfully to source the seal recommended by @Emelum if wound up ordering part number DE-112 from metricsealsinc.com. https://www.metricsealsinc.com/de-112-n-28-57-x-19-05-x-6-3. If you're quick with your math you will realize that this is seal is actually in imperial dimension, but it is the only one I could find that was close enough for my comfort, and it worked. That's the point anyway, isn't it? It took some time and patience to work the seal into place, but with all little of both and some light grease for good measure I got it in place.

- I lost only a tablespoon or two of transmission fluid in the process of changing the seal and didn't feel compelled to replace it.

- After getting everything put back together and driving the car it would not operate in hybrid mode and would throw error code P039D, indicating insufficient slip with clutch disengaged. This is because of the bleeding issue referred to by @Emelum. I kept my code reader hooked up the the car for a couple days of commuting and kept clearing the code and restarting the car each time. After about the fifteenth time the hybrid mode started working! Success!

- IMPORTANT NOTE: After each clearing of the trouble code the car would start and then stall on the first try, the keep running on the second start. Don't do the reset and restart at a stop light as I did, the feeling of panic isn't worth it!

- A lot of scouring of the interwebs reveals that not everyone has experienced success with this method for bleeding the engine disconnect clutch. The only remedy has then been a trip to the dealer to have them use their software to run a bleeding routine. Those people who have Ross-Tech software have reported that this bleeding process is not available, only the dealer software has it.

So there's my story: just a couple hours of my time and US$15 for a seal + shipping and my wife's beloved "Gretta the Jetta" is back in proper form!


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## mattmnelson (Mar 27, 2019)

*How's your repair holding up?*

Thank you all for describing this problem and a solution. My 2013 Jetta Hybrid just started exhibiting the same behavior. And as expected--and per standard dealer protocol--the repair is to replace the whole mechatronic unit. 

Otto, How has the DE-112 seal held up? I can source that one. I recognize that not much time has passed yet. 

Also, the repair information I have for the DSG 7 says not to open the mechatronic unit because of high pressure (60 bar). Does removing the valve body relieve this pressure and are there concerns with doing so?

Thanks again!
--Matt


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## lsolefac (Jul 7, 2019)

*CAN YOU share the pictures ?*

Thank you for your description of a solution to the Transmission issue with the Jetta Hybrid. Can you please share the pictures.. I have a similar issue with my hybrid and was quoted $7000 for repair...


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## Otto_Nobetter (Dec 19, 2018)

*FUll post with pictures*



lsolefac said:


> Thank you for your description of a solution to the Transmission issue with the Jetta Hybrid. Can you please share the pictures.. I have a similar issue with my hybrid and was quoted $7000 for repair...


@lsolefac, please see the link to Google Drive in my post above. @emelum's full post with pictures can be found there.


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## C-Ron (Dec 21, 2020)

Otto_Nobetter said:


> *FUll post with pictures*
> 
> 
> 
> @lsolefac, please see the link to Google Drive in my post above. @emelum's full post with pictures can be found there.



Just wanted to say thanks for all the insight and directions. I was quoted a new mechatronic and transmission from VW, which was just insane. My groove seal ended up looking identical to Emelum's and the seal recommended by Otto fit like a glove. I haven't had any issues after the first test run.


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## ERDear (Dec 23, 2020)

Just need some confirmation, I took my value block apart and yes it had the same issue when I went to put it back together I could not remember if the plunger goes in first then the spring or if it is the other way around. Also I'm getting a fault code "Hybrid system needs service now" does that mean I'm low on fluid? 
Thanks


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## C-Ron (Dec 21, 2020)

ERDear said:


> Just need some confirmation, I took my value block apart and yes it had the same issue when I went to put it back together I could not remember if the plunger goes in first then the spring or if it is the other way around. Also I'm getting a fault code "Hybrid system needs service now" does that mean I'm low on fluid?
> Thanks


The small end of the spring goes in first. I haven't run the codes yet, so I'm not sure how mine have changed. I was already experiencing a P0442.


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## ERDear (Dec 23, 2020)

C-Ron said:


> The small end of the spring goes in first. I haven't run the codes yet, so I'm not sure how mine have changed. I was already experiencing a P0442.


Just to make sure this is how it should be installed. If this is the case I see why I'm getting the code that I'm getting. If I'm understanding in correctly let me know.

Thanks,


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## ERDear (Dec 23, 2020)

Thanks everyone this worked out great for me and my car is back on the road.


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## jpgassmann (Mar 8, 2021)

I registered just to say thank you! The dealership quoted me $6k for a DSG replacement since my 2016 Jetta hybrid is over 100k miles. KBB on the car is like $9k, so that wasn't going to work. They would not just replace the mechatronics unit. I just installed the new seal and hybrid mode is back instantly. I really can't thank you guys enough.


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## ototest (Aug 31, 2017)

We have good solution for DSG7 , 
We change shifting time 1 to 2 and it save clutch life and extend !










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 16JettaMB (Mar 16, 2021)

E
*emelum*
thanks for posting this. 2016 Jetta Hybrid, engine constantly starting and stopping while at a stop or driving slowly. Code 02113 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A Range/Performance in the transmission module. Couldn't find any data on this code but I found this post and figured I'd pull it and look after ordering a seal. Sure enough it was cracked. After the replacement I had P309D00 Clutch disengagement actuator insufficient slip with disengaged clutch in the ECU. Cleared it about half a dozen times withing about half hour and all good now.


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## ShaneH (Apr 15, 2021)

I just got (almost) done replacing this damaged part and it actually went pretty easily. The damage in pictures here were exactly what I had, the replacement went in perfectly. If you do this you will need a set of ring pliers, also note the hydraulic hose attached has a spring clip that points down so it's tricky to get at. 

My problem is I ended up squishing one of the smaller rubber gaskets between the unit and the transmission!

Would anyone know the correct part number to order replacements?

UPDATE: I suppose this is easy for some, but the small o-rings are 11x2 from my best measure

Also, the VW Power Steering Fluid seems to be the right one (from dealer) and it's $30 a quart!


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## Elmarty15 (Apr 25, 2021)

hello I recently encountered this same code and am trying to resolve it. I just ordered the part that was mentioned above, from ap.co.at the company is A.pieringer gesellschaft m.b.h. Part # (FTE H28308L01). I almost gave in and purchase the one mention above as a substitute made by metricsealsinc, but i didn’t want to risk trying a part that wasn’t the same as OEM and causing more issues. The website isn’t the most user friendly and hard to understand it but doable. If you search that part number it will find it again its part #(FTE H28308L01). ( you have to select the (best way which is an extra 4.80 euros) to have it shipped to you. I will update post once i finish the repair. Like every has found that the seal was broken i had the same issue and hope thats all i need to do. I disconnected a few fuses and tried to start the engine like mentioned but did not work for me i still had a bunch of fluid spray everywhere, although it didn’t try to engage so i guess it kinda did help. After talking to the dealership they recommended using automatic transmission fluid (which was incorrect) went to another dealership and they gave me vw/audi Gear oil which is the similar in color and smelled similar to the oil.



ShaneH said:


> I just got (almost) done replacing this damaged part and it actually went pretty easily. The damage in pictures here were exactly what I had, the replacement went in perfectly. If you do this you will need a set of ring pliers, also note the hydraulic hose attached has a spring clip that points down so it's tricky to get at.
> 
> My problem is I ended up squishing one of the smaller rubber gaskets between the unit and the transmission!
> 
> ...


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## ShaneH (Apr 15, 2021)

Elmarty15 said:


> hello I recently encountered this same code and am trying to resolve it. I just ordered the part that was mentioned above, from ap.co.at the company is A.pieringer gesellschaft m.b.h. Part # (FTE H28308L01). I almost gave in and purchase the one mention below as a substitute made by metricsealsinc, but i didn’t want to risk trying a part that wasn’t the same as OEM and causing more issues. The website isn’t the most user friendly and hard to seitch it to English but doable. If you search that part number it will find it again its part #(FTE H28308L01). Ill will update post once i finish the repair. Like every has found that the seal os broken i had the same issue and hope thats all i need to do. I disconnected a few fuses and tried to start the engine like mentioned but did not work for me i still had a bunch of fluid everywhere but it didn’t try to engage so i guess it kinda did help. After talking to the dealership they recommended using automatic transmission fluid in the valve body that we are switching out. Idk where people are getting the hydraulic fluid or power steering fluid to add to it i don’t see that anywhere and doesn’t really make sense. Can anyone confirm what they used or what should be used? Thanks


Mine is actually in a German Car shop now as I ran it out of fluid when I messed up the o-ring and now getting the purge sequence done. Turns out it's definitely NOT trans or PS fluid. They had to flush it to get rid of what the dealership gave me! Dealerships just don't work on the trans at all, it seems they only do complete swaps, so there is no need for the helpful information of what fluid is in it. Don't quote me, but I think they told me it was brake fluid? He rattled off numbers and I should have written it down. Sorry I can't say exactly what it was.


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## Jettahybrid13 (May 14, 2021)

Hey guys, I'm going through this fix myself now and need some help. Lost a bunch of fluid so got the 1L of VW/Audi "gear oil" recommended above (bottle says G052145S2 Axle oil, $46 incl shipping from ECStuning). Hopefully this is right but no one seems to know for sure. But now where/how do I fill it??

I've got a funnel and rubber tubing ready but no clue where the fluid actually goes in. 

The internet doesn't seem to know. There's no literature saying exactly what this is (DSG? Gear box? Differential? Special hybrid thing?), what it needs, and how to fill. Extremely frustrating. Any help appreciated.

Here's my contribution for the next DIYer that needs to do this ridic fix:
-under the hood you'll need to pop off some plastic air intake pieces to get to the metal parts
-I pulled all hybrid-related fuses and turned car on/off to try to do the pressure relief suggested above but it didn't work. I can't believe there is no fuse diagram available online for the hybrid.
-there are two removable metal pieces and of course I removed the wrong one first (smaller Allen key). Fluid spewed out. 
-the problem gasket is in the bigger metal piece with 6 super tight hex screws. I used your basic ikea Allen key since there's so little space down there. Would be easier if you had small hands. 
-had to buy the ring pliers at lowes to get access to problem part, found the tiniest crack in the bigger gasket (like everyone else), it's the one farthest away from the spring. 
-cut off bad gasket, thought I wasn't going to be able to get the new piece (metricseals component recommended above) on. Finally had to boil the new piece for a minute to soften it and it slipped on with a massive last ditch effort. 

That's where I'm at. Trying to figure out how to refill that fluid now and hoping I have enough....


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## ShaneH (Apr 15, 2021)

The fill port is right on top of the part you pulled, it’s a multipoint like a Torx, but has more splines. I was able to use a larger Allen wrench to open it up. It goes in VERY slowly. Also..... the German Auto shop I went to ended up swapping it back to VW Power Steering Fluid! I should have followed up here earlier. It’s been running great. Also, it comes with the mechatronics unit which I had looked up for $1k


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## Elmarty15 (Apr 25, 2021)

ShaneH said:


> The fill port is right on top of the part you pulled, it’s a multipoint like a Torx, but has more splines. I was able to use a larger Allen wrench to open it up. It goes in VERY slowly. Also..... the German Auto shop I went to ended up swapping it back to VW Power Steering Fluid! I should have followed up here earlier. It’s been running great. Also, it comes with the mechatronics unit which I had looked up for $1k


There is another fill spot next to it its a black little cover and you can add fluid there. The only thing is i don’t think its power steering. But not 100% sure the gear oil was the closest thing i have found. The color out of the unit seems a little more green but have very similar smells. I know transmission fluid is not it. Thats what they gave me first and can notice the color is different. Shane did they bleed it for you as well or just switch the fluid? After i completed mine and tried starting it seems that actuator tries to engage but has a hard time and won’t start after a few attempts it will start. After test driving it, the engine light is still on i got an additional code P309D. The info i found for this code was to replace fluid and bleed the system to remove trapped air. Also shane how much did that process cost you at the shop? One place quoted 700$ which is ridiculous.


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## Findus (May 18, 2021)

Hello !

First of all, thanks for your help, there is almost no jetta hybrid here in France and searching for info is quite complicated.

If you want to find some parts number, don't hesitate to go on ETKA IFInterface ==> Free service on the top right ==> Carprog on the left ==> search for Jetta / year of production then go on 3 (transmission) then 300-052 for mechatronic with hybrid.

In my case, I thought I had a problem with the FTE joint but in fact, the pipe was not fixed (the security ring is missing).
My problem now, is too get the exact missing amount of hydraulic fluid (it's steering fluid, you can see on the ETKA the exact reference) because I don't know how many I lost.

Have a nice day


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## Jettahybrid13 (May 14, 2021)

So do you guys think I should use VW power steering fluid (part ES#3677870 on ECS tuning, Mfg#: G004000LDSP) and not the gear oil I ordered (ES#: 4766, Mfg#: G052145S2) to refill the lost fluid from this fix?


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## Jettahybrid13 (May 14, 2021)

Well, I stripped one of the torx bolts trying to get into this part to refill it with oil. Can I fill oil through the vent hole? See the black hole in the photo where I've removed the plastic cap. 

If not, is my only option to get her towed to the dealership and suffer the major financial and moral defeat?


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## Findus (May 18, 2021)

Jettahybrid13 said:


> Well, I stripped one of the torx bolts trying to get into this part to refill it with oil. Can I fill oil through the vent hole? See the black hole in the photo where I've removed the plastic cap.
> 
> If not, is my only option to get her towed to the dealership and suffer the major financial and moral defeat?


Hello, 

I saw a lot of videos for the refill : you can go through the vent hole (the videos were on a golf, but it sould be the same). It was some russian would did this with a serynge.

My mechanics (don't know if it's the right term in english) did it through the Torx on the valve bloc directly.

Hope it get well for your car !


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## Jettahybrid13 (May 14, 2021)

Hey guys, Update:
I got the valve block back on and refilled with VW PS fluid through the big torx port. Couldn't bleed the excess so lost a lot of fluid when I turned the car back on but it seemed to be running OK (better than before this debacle). 

Car was behaving the _exact_ same way as others describe - check engine light with code P309D coming on; cleared it and car would stall next time I turn it on, but then start fine on 2nd try. 

This happened about 4-5 times but now car *won't start* *at all*. Lights come on, high pitch electrical noise from hybrid system, but car won't crank (battery is new). Any ideas??


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## adi2440 (Jun 15, 2021)

Hi guys, I am a student that just bought this car pre owned and am facing this problem currently. I do not have access to a lift to access the clutch and valve black nor am I an expert in these aspects. I did speak to the dealership and they quoted me 10,000$ to replace the unit. Do you know any mechanic shop that could solve this issue for me at a lower price?
Thanks


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## adi2440 (Jun 15, 2021)

Hi, I have replaced the part as shown in the previous posts. But after installing the valve block, i noticed a small o-ring about the same size of the piston inside the block fallen below the valve block on the motor casing. Has anyone encountered an O-ring that pops out with the spring and plunger from the valve block? I do not know where it goes, and after driving the car for a while, I am now losing power at around 20mph. I need to decrease the speed to engage the clutch and then make sure i skip the 20mph range to retain power. 
Thanks


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

emelum said:


> Hi, I would like to share with you the problem I have suffered in my Jetta, and the solution I have apply, in case someone else may benefit of this.
> 
> Please, note I am not a professional mechanic, I just like it. When you do this kind of repairs you are assuming some risks, please, always secure your safety as the first priority, and keep in mind that you may generate a worse problem if you don’t have the correct knowledge. So please, be careful and have fun!
> 
> ...


Hello! 
Could you please email me at [email protected]?

I'm having a similar problem and it's driving me crazy. I would greatly appreciate any help you could provide. Thank you very much!!


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## adi2440 (Jun 15, 2021)

Johng15 said:


> Hello!
> Could you please email me at [email protected]?
> 
> I'm having a similar problem and it's driving me crazy. I would greatly appreciate any help you could provide. Thank you very much!!


Hi John, I can help you out on DM’s.
I have solved the issue recently
[email protected]


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## SimonRT (Jul 15, 2021)

Hi, I would like to thank the author for this Post !

Since I’ve done this repair myself and it worked, I would like to share my DIY although many informations are already in other post (see EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER).

*The problem : *I have a Jetta Hybrid Highline with 142000 km. The electric mode cannot engage since Fall 2020. It is a long serie of “start and stop” indefinitely when the car is at a red-light or in park mode. Not a big deal, but if I bought an Hybrid, I would like, at least, enjoy the silence and economy of the electric motor. I notice that for 3000 km, the consumption increase at 6.5L/100km (combined) instead of 5.3L/100km before this problem. Interesting because I can quantify the lost !

*First Step : Diagnose*

You must have a *Pressure problem in the hydraulic pump* using your best VAG-COM tool scanner.
When the seal is broken (Cracked), the fluid is passing through the seal and the pressure equilibrates on both side. The fluid is suppose to push the piston, but the damaged Nutring (or Brake boot as they call it) prevent that to happen. Hence, you cannot move the piston and switch the power to Electric via a clutch.
Yes, this complex system can be inoperational by a simple defective seal. We are lucky that it is a fail-safe process that let the combustion engine working ! If not, you would have 2km with your battery.
What is harrassing for those experiencing the problem is the “start and stop” when the car is at a red light : your starter will die if you don’t repair!

*Second step : Preparation *

Unlock all the doors of the vehicle.
If you have a Highline model (like mine), open the trunk with the KEY and disconnect the battery negative pole. DON’T CLOSE YOUR TRUNK if you have a keyless entry, because that will be a problem to reopen since you have no battery!
Open the Hood with the latch.

*Third step : Remove some cover parts*
It is more complicated to remove all the mechatronic (you need special tool) ! With this repair all you have to do is :

Remove the plastic cover protecting the secondary air Box
Remove the secondary air Box (two connector that you press and pull out). No screws. You pull out the box gently (three rubber points)
Put some cotton rag below the valve block. You will loose approx. 15ml-25ml of fluid in the process.
So it is very easy.

*Fourth step : the funny part*

Battery disconnected, you only have to remove the “grey block cylinder”, so only the left part. You don’t need to remove anything else (you don’t have to remove the right side of the block valve assembly, so don’t need to touch the 3 torx screws). The more you remove, the more you’ll spill some fluid everywhere.

You need to remove *6 x “4mm Allen screws”.* There is a little space to reach the 2 screws at the bottom so you need to use a small Allen Key (4mm) and push hard (use a lever like a Hex key). When they are loose, they are very easy to remove by hand. 

Those 6 Allen screws compress two aluminum parts together : the sealing is made by a small O-ring on the right side and Other O ring (bigger) directly on the part you are removing.
You have a hose that connects to the left side of the block valve. To remove it, clean the area with a cotton rag and put some oil spray. Clean again *to see what you are doing*.
You will see a small bracket, you have to remove it with a hook. Be very careful when removing this bracket, you don’t want to drop it in the engine bay.

















After, you can pull out the steel tube at the left side. It is not easy, there is no space and a plastic holder is in the way behind : do your best !
Once the“4mm Allen screws” are removed, you have to pry back and forth the Block valve because the piston is partially inside the Head of the block valve and there is an O-ring that seals that.
Be careful to remove the grey block smoothly, there is fluid inside. Keep it horizontaly (not face down!) when you remove it from the engine bay.

View inside the engine bay after removing the left part of the block valve.








Put the grey block valve in a pan. Liquid will begin to come out.








You will loose approx. 15-25ml of fluid when manipulating this part, this fluid could be replace by the screw hole on the top. This is the fluid that I use. It is a power steering fluid.









Now unscrew the Big triple-square (is it an M10) bolt on the top of the grey block-valve. You will use this has a hole to fill the piston. You have to “crack” it so it takes a long lever and a vise.









You have now to remove the piston inside. To do that, use a plier with curbed nose and squeeze the steel ring. The piston will pop-up.








Now, let’s see if the nutring is the problem !








Oh yeah ! the Nutring is damaged.








The Nutring is cracked and I can see on the other side, so the fluid is passing through which is not good !! That explains why the piston is not moving, so the clutch disengagement system cannot work properly !

Remember the way you have to reassemble the parts ! Take pictures !










The part number for this specific Nutring is FTE- H28308L01 (FTE automotive), *it is very difficult (if not impossible) to find in the US and Canada.* The number is written inside the u-cup of this seal (28308).
After a lot of research and many emails to allow the order to be shipped internationaly (outside Europe), here the hyperlink to order it :
FTE H28308L01 Nutring Bremsmanschetten
Communicate with : A.PiERiNGER. Kontakt zu uns aufnehmen


*Final step : reassambly*

Be very careful, The small o-ring on the right side of the block valve may be damaged as well. Mine was damaged, completely flat with a hole. I didn’t see that the first time so after reassambling, I connect the battery negative pole again, start the car and found that I had a leak of fluid at the interface of the block valve. Hopefully I saw it immediately and I disconnected the battery again. It was the small O-ring on the upper part of the right side of the block valve.

Finding this kind of O-ring can be difficult. No auto-parts store had this in my city. I ended up at my Hardware store and find a “cartridge” with the right O-ring !! for 3,49$, it is 10 times the cost, but when you have the part, you are happy !
Gently put this O-ring with a little bit of fluid and ressamble again.

Now, since we have lost 15-25ml of fluid, time to fill it. I used the Triple Square port (M10) and a seringe to put 20 ml.
I found it very important to put the same amount of fluid lost. My objective was to reduce the number of P039D code that I anticipated (see EMELUM).

So M10 torqued, secondary box replaced, battery reconnected… ready to start the car, after 15 days in the parking waiting for a nutring from Europe !

I drove about 5 minutes and the Mil (engine light) come on and it was my first P039D (insufficient slip with clutch disengaged). I reset this code and I let the car to do another small ride…

After only 4 ride, Mil and reset of the P039D, electric mode has come back !!! Everything is fine !

*Conclusion :*

You go to the dealer : you have to change the Mechatronics for 3500-4000$CDN and that is a REBATE. But the problem is NOT the Mechatronics, it is a simple seal that has cracked over time on the piston located in the upper block-valve. But they won’t do this repair. I even ask to my dealer to order this specific Nutring (FTE-28308L01) and they we’re not able to order it. He tried 30 minutes in front of me, no success. How a dealer cannot order a part for is own brand ? Another big mystery.

Instead, they will install you a brand new Mechatronics and they will ask a specialist to rebuilt or remanufactured your “old” mechatronics and this specialist will put a new seal (probably one that could fit, not the original) since it is the only part that has failed. The mechatronics is in perfect shape.

It’s a joke… for a simple seal… thousand of dollars.

We see a problem with this seal : it can move a little. The seal has 6.35mm width but the space (the groove) on the piston is 6.75mm. So this seal is moving. When the car is running, we are frequently passing in electric mode to combustion and combustion to electric mode. This seal cannot resist illimited number of cycle “stress-no stress” which is called fatigue.

Also we have to consider the low temperature. When you have -40C in Canada, the nitrile that is used is shrinking and loose its elastomeric properties. It becomes hard and brittle. I remember that this problem (problem to engage the electronic motor) happen during december, it was cold outside and it could have been the last damage by the “fatigue” mechanism.
And... don't forget : BUT 2 Nutring (12 Euros each) ! They are so difficult to find and the Shipping is very expensive (30 euros).

Good luck to everyone,

SimonRT


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

SimonRT said:


> Hi, I would like to thank the author for this Post !
> 
> Since I’ve done this repair myself and it worked, I would like to share my DIY although many informations are already in other post (see EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER).
> 
> ...


Hey Simon, 

Would you be so kind as to email me at 
[email protected]

I am about to start this repair, and i'm also in Canada. I just want to ask a few questions before I do if that's ok?

Thank you so much for the info above. I am beyond grateful and I'm full of hope.


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Anyone who is interested... I had the same issue as everyone above with the start-stop. I ended up trying the fix above and sure enough... A crack in the seal just like everyone else. It frustrates me that I described to VW that all of you had success with this issue and yet they wouldn't even look at it. They would only say I needed a full transmission. 

Although I am still waiting for the seal and don't know for sure if it will work (I am very confident), I still want to thank all of you for the help. Special shout out to Adi2440. 

If any new people have questions please contact me, I would love to pay it forward.


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

I had another question for anyone who might be able to help. When I finish the repair, is there a way to know how much power steering fluid I need to add? It's hard to know exactly how much I may have lost during the whole process. I'm just unsure how I can figure this part out. Thank you in advance! Also bonus marks for recommending a power steering fluid that I can get in Canada. I'm looking at this one but I'm not sure if it is ok.

Feel free to email me at [email protected]


*OEM Power Steering Fluid, European, 946-mL


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oem-power-steering-fluid-european-946-ml-0380657p.0380657.html


*


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

Johng15 said:


> I had another question for anyone who might be able to help. When I finish the repair, is there a way to know how much power steering fluid I need to add? It's hard to know exactly how much I may have lost during the whole process. I'm just unsure how I can figure this part out. Thank you in advance! Also bonus marks for recommending a power steering fluid that I can get in Canada. I'm looking at this one but I'm not sure if it is ok.
> 
> Feel free to email me at [email protected]
> 
> ...


If you're referring to the mechatronics...it's 1 liter of G 055 512 A2...it replaced the old G 052 0512 A2 that caused failures when the car first released.

If you did the O ring repair only it'll be 20-25 mL that you can add through the valve block. 

For the other fluids see this link.



https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10096035-0699.pdf


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## SimonRT (Jul 15, 2021)

Darkness_89 said:


> If you're referring to the mechatronics...it's 1 liter of G 055 512 A2...it replaced the old G 052 0512 A2 that caused failures when the car first released.
> 
> If you did the O ring repair only it'll be 20-25 mL that you can add through the valve block.
> 
> ...


Hello, I did this repair at the beginning of July. The information I found is different about the fluid inside the Mechatronics (not the gear box). 

1-In the VW 2013 FLUID CAPACITY CHART it is written : G 052 145 S2 .

2-But in the Manual for repair, 2016 release... see Page 67








PDF ONLINE - VW Jetta Hybrid 2013 Direct Shift Gearbox Repair Manual (Edition 01.2016) – PDF Download


VW Jetta Hybrid 2013 Direct Shift Gearbox Repair Manual (Edition 01.2016). Final Drive, Differential, Gears, Shafts, Controls, Housing...




procarmanuals.com





It is written : G 004 000 M2, Power steering (see picture below).










Hope it helps... 

Simon RT


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

emelum said:


> Hi, I would like to share with you the problem I have suffered in my Jetta, and the solution I have apply, in case someone else may benefit of this.
> 
> Please, note I am not a professional mechanic, I just like it. When you do this kind of repairs you are assuming some risks, please, always secure your safety as the first priority, and keep in mind that you may generate a worse problem if you don’t have the correct knowledge. So please, be careful and have fun!
> 
> ...


I followed your instruction along with others... I can't believe this worked. Thank you sooooooo much!


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

SimonRT said:


> Hello, I did this repair at the beginning of July. The information I found is different about the fluid inside the Mechatronics (not the gear box).
> 
> 1-In the VW 2013 FLUID CAPACITY CHART it is written : G 052 145 S2 .
> 
> ...



Appreciate the correction and the link to the 2016 edition of the manual, I had the 2012. I just finished a Kinegro DSG 7.02 mod to my mechatronics and it came with this fluid which meets the VW G 004 000 M2 spec. Also it's green like the fluid that came out of the mech when I drained it. 









Febi® G-004-000-M2 - Hydraulic System Fluid


Hydraulic System Fluid - Part Number G-004-000-M2 by Febi. Volume: 1L. For Power Steering and Hydraulic System. Available in Parts Department at www.carid.com




www.carid.com


----------



## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Hey all, I need some further help. I did the repair above and had no issues after. I did not top up the power steering fluid and was going to take a wait-and-see approach. Everything worked fine, including the electric motor. However, after roughly 1 month, the check engine light came on for the P039D cod. I cleared it and it stayed off for a few days. Then it came on again and has got to a point it comes on as soon as the electric engine tries to kick in. 

I have reset the code around 20 times but it just keeps coming on. Do I just drive with the check engine light on and reset it once in a while, or constantly? OR should I top up the fluid? I unscrewed the larger screw above the megatronic unit and could see the fluid was "full." I'm not sure if I need to refill in a different place. @SimonRT sent me a picture but I am struggling to locate where to top of the fluid. 

Thanks everyone! You can email me at [email protected] if it is easier.


----------



## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

Johng15 said:


> Hey all, I need some further help. I did the repair above and had no issues after. I did not top up the power steering fluid and was going to take a wait-and-see approach. Everything worked fine, including the electric motor. However, after roughly 1 month, the check engine light came on for the P039D cod. I cleared it and it stayed off for a few days. Then it came on again and has got to a point it comes on as soon as the electric engine tries to kick in.
> 
> I have reset the code around 20 times but it just keeps coming on. Do I just drive with the check engine light on and reset it once in a while, or constantly? OR should I top up the fluid? I unscrewed the larger screw above the megatronic unit and could see the fluid was "full." I'm not sure if I need to refill in a different place. @SimonRT sent me a picture but I am struggling to locate where to top of the fluid.
> 
> Thanks everyone! You can email me at [email protected] if it is easier.


The spline bit nut was where I topped up the throttle body after I removed it. I only put in 30 mL of fluid. Then cleared codes for an hour while driving around a parking lot until the hybrid system started working again.


----------



## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Darkness_89 said:


> The spline bit nut was where I topped up the throttle body after I removed it. I only put in 30 mL of fluid. Then cleared codes for an hour while driving around a parking lot until the hybrid system started working again.


Thanks! My issue is that when I opened that spline nut, it looks full. There is no room to add anything?


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

Johng15 said:


> Thanks! My issue is that when I opened that spline nut, it looks full. There is no room to add anything?


I'd add a little (like a squirt) at a time until you couldn't add more. Add the rest of the 30 mL to the mechatronics directly through the fill port at top. The black plastic cap next to the throttle body pops off with a little effort.


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Darkness_89 said:


> I'd add a little (like a squirt) at a time until you couldn't add more. Add the rest of the 30 mL to the mechatronics directly through the fill port at top. The black plastic cap next to the throttle body pops off with a little effort.


Thank you for that picture! I'll try that now


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Johng15 said:


> Thank you for that picture! I'll try that now


Darkness, so I topped up the fluid (roughly 25-30 ml). I've been driving around and clearing the codes but it still keeps coming back on as soon as the electric engine tries to start. Just a quick question with that, should I just continue to clear it over and over until one time it doesn't come on? You mentioned it took you over an hour correct? I did it for prob 20 minutes straight before I had to head to work. I'm unsure if I should drive a bit in between clearing codes or not, because it comes on as soon as I start driving. Thanks again for all your help, it has been tremendous and much appreciated!


----------



## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

Johng15 said:


> Darkness, so I topped up the fluid (roughly 25-30 ml). I've been driving around and clearing the codes but it still keeps coming back on as soon as the electric engine tries to start. Just a quick question with that, should I just continue to clear it over and over until one time it doesn't come on? You mentioned it took you over an hour correct? I did it for prob 20 minutes straight before I had to head to work. I'm unsure if I should drive a bit in between clearing codes or not, because it comes on as soon as I start driving. Thanks again for all your help, it has been tremendous and much appreciated!


Correct. I just kept driving and clearing until it stopped for good. I had a few times that the hybrid system would come back (about 40 minutes in) then I'd get a CEL. After that the CELs were occuring further apart then stopped. I kept my odbii scanner in my car for a week just in case.


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Darkness_89 said:


> Correct. I just kept driving and clearing until it stopped for good. I had a few times that the hybrid system would come back (about 40 minutes in) then I'd get a CEL. After that the CELs were occuring further apart then stopped. I kept my odbii scanner in my car for a week just in case.


Thank you again... You rock man


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

Did anyone fix this code with the accumulator replacement? Like the Kinergo "fix'? 
I tried the Oring fix but didn't work. In all honesty, the Oring looked good on mine but I replaced it anyway. I used VCDS and I can see the pressure dropping slowly. 

Now, I need to clarify something for people that are confused still. The fluid for the mechatronic unit IS the so called power steering fluid (green hydraulic fluid like in some posts before). The fluid for the transmission (where the gears are) is a different fluid and most of the times if you call the dealer to ask for transmission fluid, they will give you that fluid. Different fluids for different parts of the transmission. DO NOT use the 'transmission' fluid for the mechatronic. Please someone correct me if this is wrong. I am in US where this transmission is not that popular (most cars here with DSG had the wet clutches) and I feel that's why all the confusion here.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

gigel said:


> Did anyone fix this code with the accumulator replacement? Like the Kinergo "fix'?
> I tried the Oring fix but didn't work. In all honesty, the Oring looked good on mine but I replaced it anyway. I used VCDS and I can see the pressure dropping slowly.
> 
> Now, I need to clarify something for people that are confused still. The fluid for the mechatronic unit IS the so called power steering fluid (green hydraulic fluid like in some posts before). The fluid for the transmission (where the gears are) is a different fluid and most of the times if you call the dealer to ask for transmission fluid, they will give you that fluid. Different fluids for different parts of the transmission. DO NOT use the 'transmission' fluid for the mechatronic. Please someone correct me if this is wrong. I am in US where this transmission is not that popular (most cars here with DSG had the wet clutches) and I feel that's why all the confusion here.


I fixed it with the accumulator mod. I'll do a full write up later today with pictures and an explanation of where I goofed. It was an expensive goof. Still came out ahead financially with everything said and done.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

gigel said:


> Did anyone fix this code with the accumulator replacement? Like the Kinergo "fix'?
> I tried the Oring fix but didn't work. In all honesty, the Oring looked good on mine but I replaced it anyway. I used VCDS and I can see the pressure dropping slowly.
> 
> Now, I need to clarify something for people that are confused still. The fluid for the mechatronic unit IS the so called power steering fluid (green hydraulic fluid like in some posts before). The fluid for the transmission (where the gears are) is a different fluid and most of the times if you call the dealer to ask for transmission fluid, they will give you that fluid. Different fluids for different parts of the transmission. DO NOT use the 'transmission' fluid for the mechatronic. Please someone correct me if this is wrong. I am in US where this transmission is not that popular (most cars here with DSG had the wet clutches) and I feel that's why all the confusion here.


_Okey doke. deep inhale. Like you the O ring fix didn't resolve my problem so I went with the Kinegro mod. I watched a bunch of videos about the mechatronics and the mod to get an understanding of what I was getting myself into. I should have read and watched them more. 

The fluid for the mechatronics G004 000 M2. Capacity 1L. The fluid that will come with the kit is pictured below. It's GREEN. _

I will say nothing regarding the transmission fluid in this post as I have not serviced it.

_Things I didn't use on this repair. VCDS (didn't have it) or common sense

To answer some questions before I start. Did I remove or touch any hybrid components. No. 

Did I remove the negative terminal on the 12V battery. Yes. 

Do I need to remove the mechatronics to replace the accumulator? No. I tried to and that's where I goofed as I didn't understand the mechatronics as much as I thought I did....it got stuck and I wasn't going do the other procedure in the manual to get it unstuck. I gave up and had to towed to the dealership. I'll try and explain how to avoid that.

Do I need to remove anything on the valve block? Just the triple spline cap at the very end.

Do I need to buy the Assembly Level-Mechatronics-T10407? No.

Do I need to remove the radiator fan or hoses? No..well..maybe. _

First download the manual for the Mechatronics and Transmission that was posted by SimonRT two months ago and read everything concerning the mechatronic removal and replacement procedure. That will make what I say next make much more sense. In addition, all the additional tools he recommended...get them. Second, source a Kinegro 7.02 kit. I used eBay and got one for $309. The kit will come with the appropriate oil for the mechatronic. I recommend buying a second bottle.







Head to your local automotive store a grab a basic socket set, a torx bit socket set, and a sizeable pipe wrench (to remove the accumulator). The accumulator technically uses a T70 torx bit but with clearances; F that. T20, 25 and 30 is all you'll need if memory serves me right. A torque wrench that can tighten to 30NM wouldn't hurt either. You will need a triple spline socket set to pop the top nut on the valve block to top it off with some green hydraulic fluid but it's up to you. Now since you're losing pressure still it's all but confirmed that your accumulator housing is cracked and not holding pressure. VW had a half ass recall regarding it. I recommend if you're doing this in your garage, get your vehicle on jack stands and just let it sit for 12-24 hours, so the accumulator can depressurize. I had access to a shop with a lift so I parked it outside the shop turned it on for 15 seconds to stage the car on the lift and turned it off. I say that as there are reports that the accumulator can still have pressure which could be dangerous if you try to remove it.

Put the car in park, pull the handbrake, unlock your doors, remove the negative terminal from the battery, leave the trunk open, open the hood. Get under the car and undo the torx bolts holding the plastic shielding between the front tires and behold your mechatronics. Grab your manual and head to section 1.2 Mechatronic, Removing and Installing. I skipped the VCDS stuff. I foolishly followed the coolant steps even though I had zero coolant on hand to replace it. GOOF #1. Also...it wasn't necessary. Removed the dampers, air lines and the little air dump thing (above the radiator, 2 screws)

Skipped electric drive power and control electronics steps. Hydraulic line does not need to be removed. Do not remove clamps form the valve block/mechatronic. Leave the mechatronics bleeder alone for now.

Skip down to page 56...disconnect the connector







...its weird to get out. be gentle King Arthur. remove the nuts and bracket. Do not drain the transmission...only the mechatronics. If you see red...you done goofed. I goofed. GOOF#2. If you see green..good job. Retighten to 30Nm. Is it actually 30Nm? No clue..thats the number thrown around throughout the manual for other stuff so that's what I went with. Don't bother uncliping the transmission speed sensor. We aren't trying to remove the mechatronics so ignore everything that follows.

Skip to page 64. On the diagram is the mechatronics highlighted in blue with the bolts holding the mechatronics to the transmission in yellow. Don't touch the yellow bolts labeled #1.







Remove the rest. Some bolts are easier to remove from above than below. The cover can now be removed...kinda. This is a pain in the cheeks and you may need to rotate the mechatronics cover upside down to get the cover off over the accumulator. If that doesn't work move the coolant hoses around. If that doesn't work...go buy some coolant cause you're about to make a mess. See manual page 52-53.

Grab your pipe wrench or channel locks and remove the accumulator very slowly.














Notice the clearance between the accumulator and the coolant lines. A T70 torx won't fit. Pipe wrench will.

So at this point follow the instructions provided with the modification, or just watch the YouTube video. You may or may not have shards of metal, which is the remnants of your accumulator housing, to pull out. I did not have that problem. Others have. Remove the hardware from the housing. Grab your automotive grease and the kit and get to work. I did not torque the new housing, couldn't find an appropriate number anywhere...i just did it tight+a little extra. YMMV. If your gasket is ripped in any way shape or form...get rid of it. Use the one in the kit.

Go back to the manual, page 65..reinstall. See page 50 for torque specs on the #2 bolts. I used the same torque for the other ones. Now when it comes to filling the mechatronics see page 67. Take the syringe that came in the kit and pull out one vial? of fluid, and put it to the side. The vent cap of the mechatronics comes off with a bit of effort. Use the skinniest funnel you can find and slowly pour the rest of the bottle of fluid that came with the kit in. Remove the triple spline bolt on the valve block and see if the area under the bolt is empty. If it is fill it with the syringe. Dump remaining fluid in mechatronics. Reinstall triple spline bolt. Reinstall breather cap. Reinstall dampers, shields, airhoses, check for tools, random bolts etc etc. Install battery terminal and take her for a test drive. Have an ODB-II sensor on hand as you'll have introduced a lot of air into the system and it will take time to purge.

MEOW...since I tried to remove the mechatronics I lost all my transmission fluid, the coolant and the mechatronics got stuck upon removal with the tool. Now I know the VCDS software has a setting to move the transmission into neutral but my vehicle was in park until I was like oh crap I have no fluids to replace what I lost. I had to turn the vehicle on in order to get it into neutral so I could push it out of the shop so I could tow it. At that point I was like hmmm...maybe I could drop the mechatronics since the car is now physically in neutral but I accepted that I was above my head at how deep I'd gotten. Towed it to my VW dealership and said hey...remove and reinstall the mechatronics. The mechatronics was already modded when I pushed it out of the shop so VW could do the rest. They removed and reinstalled the mechatronic, serviced the coolant and transmission and I was out the door $1700 poorer.


After factoring in tools ($80-130), extra fluid($13), shop time($56 for 5 hours), the kit($309), the tow($52) and the goof correction($1700) I still came out ahead of getting a "new transmission" for $7400. VW reseat the mechatronics in June and I haven't had a flashing wrench or loss of power since. I did notice that the RPMs are higher and the hybrid system isn't as pronounced when accelerating from a stop. My MPG took a hit but I'm fine with it. I'm not a professional mechanic, just a dude trying to avoid another car note. Let me know if you need clarification on anything..I'll make an attempt.


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## Johng15 (Jul 14, 2021)

Darkness_89 said:


> _Okey doke. deep inhale. Like you the O ring fix didn't resolve my problem so I went with the Kinegro mod. I watched a bunch of videos about the mechatronics and the mod to get an understanding of what I was getting myself into. I should have read and watched them more.
> 
> The fluid for the mechatronics G004 000 M2. Capacity 1L. The fluid that will come with the kit is pictured below. It's GREEN. _
> 
> ...


Thank you so much for taking the time to write this out... I'll have to read it over a few more times haha. 
Want


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

A couple of videos I watched that helped.





 Partial breakdown of the mechatronics





 Full break down of the mechatronics





 More info on the transmission





 Kinegro install with mechatronics removed.

*



 Kinegro install by X8R...likely who you're likely going to get the mod kit from anyway*

VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2014 MECHATRONIC AND TCM REMOVE & INSTALLATION Mechatronics removal video. Watch if you want.

*HOW TO REPAIR MECHATRONIC P17BF ERROR ON DSG 7 DQ200 Must watch

Repairing VW Scirocco Mechatronic DSG DQ200 P17BF issue with Kinergo 7.02 in Qatar! Must watch

Dsg Probleme, Reparatur DSG Mechatronik 7 Gang, DQ200, VW Audi Seat Skoda P17BF, P189C Reparatur Kingro Mod. Mechatronics remains on vehicle

Come On Eileen Helped me recover a bit from the ordeal.*


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

Thank you for taking the time to post all the details (and the goofs  ). I need to look for a Kinergo kit now.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

gigel said:


> Thank you for taking the time to post all the details (and the goofs  ). I need to look for a Kinergo kit now.











DSG Mechatronic Unit Gear Box Accumulator Fix Kit Repair VW AUDI SKODA VAG Leak | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for DSG Mechatronic Unit Gear Box Accumulator Fix Kit Repair VW AUDI SKODA VAG Leak at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

Did you find the broken pieces from the housing? Did yours look like the pictures on the internet?


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

gigel said:


> Did you find the broken pieces from the housing? Did yours look like the pictures on the internet?


It was still in one piece but the dealership had informed me that the transmission was losing pressure. So the acc. housing was cracked somewhere.


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## Krebsi (Sep 29, 2021)

Hello everybody. My name is Ivan, I live in Munich. I also have a Jetta Hybrid 2014 highline. I have been following this topic for a long time, you are great! I have a question about this oil seal / cuff. At the very beginning of the topic there was this link






DE-112


DE-112



www.metricsealsinc.com





and now there is a link to another product









FTE H28308L01 Nutring Bremsmanschetten


Nutring 28,57 / 16,8-18,5 / 6,65 Bild 3 Dichtring Bremse




www.ap.co.at





Which one is better? I found on ebay the same cuffs as in the first link and they are quite adequate in price ... What do you think about these cuffs?








Kolbendichtung Piston Seal NA300, PUA, B7, UP, KNA28, KNA, PS-72 asymmetrisch | eBay


Entdecken Sie Kolbendichtung Piston Seal NA300, PUA, B7, UP, KNA28, KNA, PS-72 asymmetrisch in der großen Auswahl bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!



www.ebay.de


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

Krebsi, I think all 3 are similar products made by different companies. The first one has been used with success by a number of people, so I would use that one if given a choice.


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

Does anybody know the amount of fluid the Mechatronic takes after the cylinder replacement?


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

gigel said:


> Does anybody know the amount of fluid the Mechatronic takes after the cylinder replacement?


1 liter of the lovely green stuff.


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## Krebsi (Sep 29, 2021)

gigel said:


> Krebsi, I think all 3 are similar products made by different companies. The first one has been used with success by a number of people, so I would use that one if given a choice.


All right, thanks for your opinion. The cuff on ebay has the same dimensions as the first one. These can be bought in blue (up to 400 bar) or in black (up to 80 bar). What would be the right choice here? My hybrid doesn't cause any problems yet, only has 100,000 km on the clock, but who knows, it might break tomorrow ...


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

A little confused here... First, I drained from my Mech about 0.6L. And it didn't seem to leak anything ever (all was dry and dusty). I didn't see any attempts from any other mechanics before me. I tried the Oring fix first but I probably lost 1 (max2) spoons of oil. I didn't think it's necessary to top it of back them (about a month a go). Then, attempting to refill it after the Kinergo install, I could not get more than 0.6 L in, I had fluid all the way to the top vent.


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

My repair was not successful (yet). It can't build pressure (I have VCDS). Before, I could see the pressure dropping slowly (field 30), now it doesn't go up. Maybe I don't have enough fluid. I will research more.
Anybody has any input, I welcome any comments


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

For the record, my housing was NOT cracked like the pics. I didn't see anything wrong. BUT the original cylinder was not tight. I just loosened with my hand. I suspect that was the problem, but I installed Kinergo anyway. 
I will update as soon as I have info.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

gigel said:


> My repair was not successful (yet). It can't build pressure (I have VCDS). Before, I could see the pressure dropping slowly (field 30), now it doesn't go up. Maybe I don't have enough fluid. I will research more.
> Anybody has any input, I welcome any comments


In an old thread they mentioned a K1 bleed that happens after dealing with the mech/valve block. Is that an option in VCDS?


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

When I replaced the Oring I had the "no slipping" code for a while. But instead of researching how to bleed it with VCDS I used the traditional method of clearing the code. it took a few tries and then it started working (well, started working like before the Oring replacement, with the pressure leaking). So it's not that.


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

Well, I take back everything i said above. My repair went great 
Today I spent some more time with the car. Noticed that it started building pressure little by little. And as i was improving on building the pressure, I could add more fluid as well. I assume that it's just a bleeding/purging process after a part (accumulator) replacement (I assume there is a lot of air in the system). 
To make a long story short and in case someone needs this info, I used 1L of fluid in the end. It's a big hassle to get it in (I didn't use a syringe, instead I used a small funnel to which I attached with heat shrink a piece of tubing and at the end I used a tiny piece of tubing like the ones used in vacuum lines). It took probably about 20-30 min to achieve good pressure. Adding fluid a little, than turning on the car and watching the VCDS. At some point in time, all lights in the dash turned off by themselves (when it reached 40 bar I think).


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## gigel (Sep 13, 2005)

The way it works now: the pressure (field 30) drops slowly but rises immediately when the pump runs (field 31). It takes about 2 seconds for the pump to raise the pressure from 40 to 60. Before the repair, I could never get 60 bar. My pressure would not go over 40ish bar, and the pump would run all the time. 
Now, it takes 30-40 seconds for the pressure to drop and 2 seconds to get it back to 60. 
Needless to say, car is back to normal. Gas engine stays OFF when idling, all shifts are good, no more codes in the transmission module. All in all, I am a happy camper. 
Conclusion: be patient in the "bleeding" phase. I guess it takes a while to replace all the air in the cylinder/valves/channels after draining everything and taking it apart.


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## aaron613 (Jan 27, 2021)

Sorry for being a noob, but where exactly is the valve block? I don’t know where to start looking.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

aaron613 said:


> Sorry for being a noob, but where exactly is the valve block? I don’t know where to start looking.


Driver side front of the engine. Look down at the bottom of the radiator. 2-3 inches away from it will be a big black thing (mechatronics) and you might see a shiny metal thing on top of it. The shiny metal thing is the valve block.

Edit. Above the left arrow, under the two hoses is the valve block. Jetta Hybrid DSG 7 dry. Mechatronic problem (Engyne...


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## aaron613 (Jan 27, 2021)

Darkness - thank you very much!!!!


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## joeniman (Jan 7, 2022)

2015 Jetta Hybrid SEL

I'm having the stop/start symptoms. I've only been driving on freeway to work. Don't want to cause any damage if that's a possibility. Recently had some intermittent rough shifting in low gears while off the freeway. FIXD Scan reader showed two new codes:
P0841-Trans fluid pressure sensor
P2237-02 sensor current control
My plan has been to replace the piston groove ring/seal as described in this thread. But I'm curious if the two issues above might be something I should check first. Could they be somehow causing the start/stop problem? Or, are they maybe just a result of the actuator piston groove ring crack.

Side note: My car was not switching to electric motor for a several months before all this trouble began. Dealer could only find Brake Booster problem. They said did not see anything wrong with hybrid system. My brakes were mushy of course. After I finally had brake booster replaced, the hybrid system was back to working normally. 

Thanks,
Joe


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## Ferchavez (12 mo ago)

emelum said:


> Hi, I would like to share with you the problem I have suffered in my Jetta, and the solution I have apply, in case someone else may benefit of this.
> 
> Please, note I am not a professional mechanic, I just like it. When you do this kind of repairs you are assuming some risks, please, always secure your safety as the first priority, and keep in mind that you may generate a worse problem if you don’t have the correct knowledge. So please, be careful and have fun!
> 
> ...


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## Ferchavez (12 mo ago)

Hello, I have a 2014 Jetta that is doing the disengaging the motor, and after I stop, turn off the car and back on the problem goes away. I have noticed that it only does this when it is cold. I had not experienced this problem because in deep South Texas, US it hardly never gets cold. 
Could you please share the pictures so that I can see what part to address. 
Best Regards, 
FC


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

SimonRT said:


> Hi, I would like to thank the author for this Post !
> 
> SimonRT


Hi SimonRT! Sorry to single you out for a response so long after you posted your walk through, but i could really use some help/ideas if you can offer any. I followed your (while also looking at the posts from EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER) instructions because your pictures were the most comprehensive and helpful. The repair went fantastic.... or... so i thought.... Please bear with me trying to describe this as I know next to nothing about car repair. My nutring was cracked just like yours and everyone else's, and i was able to do everything listed to attempt the fix. Here is the process I went through in order:

1. Trunk battery disconnect
2. Removal of cover and secondary air box
3. Unscrew the six "4mm" screws with allan key and remove bracket with a pick tool (trying to work that allan wrench sucked by the way, there is no space in there ahaha)
4. Remove the grey block valve from the engine bay
5. Remove piston from block valve
6. Replace damaged nutring and reassemble the piston and block valve (I used the nutring from metricsealsinc)
7. Re-attach block valve with the six "4mm" screws and fit the hose onto the back left and replace bracket
8. Add 20 ml of power steering fluid to the triple square port (m10) with a syringe and re-secure the bolt (I used Fram brand OEM specification power steering fluid)
9. Put back the secondary air box and cover, then re-connect the trunk battery

I finished this repair yesterday and now my car doesn't run at all. I drove around for about 45 minutes immediately after the repair and experienced some problems. At first, the car would have trouble accelerating when I was stopped but in drive. At this period the car would only actually start when i shifted into drive - no engine start when i hit the ignition while in park. Then the stopping happened a few times at low speed coasting. Next, it happened while accelerating. And now the car won't move at all. I'm lucky that I had made it back to my driveway before it stopped working all together.

The weird part is that this nutring repair did initially fix the constant engine starting problem while stationary. The electric motor never came back on though. And the condition of the car worsened as I drove around with what i guess one would call slipping out of gear.(?)

After letting it sit overnight I see some fluid on the ground and the car will start but it won't go anywhere. It will move for like half of a second while in reverse, then i hear a kind of _thunk_ noise and no more acceleration. The car will still rev when I push the acceleration in drive or reverse, but will not move. This is my first attempt at fixing a moving part on my car, so I very well could have done something wrong and not know it, but I feel like I had followed the steps correctly.

Do you (or anyone reading this) have any ideas for what could be wrong? I inspected my O-ring on the right of the piston as well and it seemed alright, but that piece also being defective is all that comes to mind for why I'm getting the leakage and non function. Please help! Thank you.


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

.I jumped the gun! I just disassembled the block valve again and my O-ring was completely busted!! I'll update after replacing the O-ring!!!

Edit: I have replaced the O-ring and that did resolve my leaking problem, but the car still won't move. The engine still starts, but it doesn't even try to move when I go to reverse or drive. Error light reads: "Error: stabilisation control (ESC)"
Four ideas here:
1. I really messed something else up bad when i was driving around with that busted O-ring and need to have it towed to a shop
2. I lost so much fluid that there isn't enough in the system anymore and i need to replace an unknown amount of fluid
3. Air bubble in the system?
4. Fluid was incompatible (i used FRAM brand "meets OEM standards" power steering fluid)

Does anyone have any input? I have now given this my best possible shot and cannot do much more but give up and hope that a mechanic isn't too expensive. I would really like to be able to say this repair was a success though. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

Edit 2: Code scanner reads:
"P0841"
1.Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch 1: Implausible Signal
2. LR Pressure Switch Rationality (Only for VW Routan)

I've been erasing these codes for half an hour now and they just come back immediately, still no movement with the car.

Edit 3: The car will no longer start. Weird, rapid clicking noise from power relay sometimes. I think every warning light possible is on the dash and now i'm getting a message saying there's an error with the airbag.

Edit 4: Battery is now dead.


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

Now I'm thinking it's got to be the fluid. I'm going to get some from the dealership then I guess I'll do another update..... wish this thread wasn't so old.

Edit: It looks full from the spot on top of the block valve. Looks like i have to go to a mechanic.


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

Update: 
I tried jump starting the car and it did not work. The jump charged the battery but the ignition didn't go at all. I replaced the buzzing relay and still had no luck. Does anyone know how i can get this car started again? I believe that everything that was initially broken has been repaired and that the car might be totally fine if i can just get it started.


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## C-Ron (Dec 21, 2020)

I’m now getting a p0810 error code. My hybrid just moved itself to neutral on the highway and now it won’t start.

Anyone else ever get this code or know where to find the replacement part in the car? I’ve found it rare to find parts online but found this:



https://www.carparts.com/details/Volkswagen/Jetta/Replacement/Clutch_Master_Cylinder/2013/Hybrid_SE/RV31600001.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=221983653&gclid=CjwKCAjwloCSBhAeEiwA3hVo_SR7Pu3MW6KkaK3smUUNYFisno5ZgE7t1wbmpswjJEB_rx6ZiuvwWBoCgw0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

Ferchavez said:


> Hello, I have a 2014 Jetta that is doing the disengaging the motor, and after I stop, turn off the car and back on the problem goes away. I have noticed that it only does this when it is cold. I had not experienced this problem because in deep South Texas, US it hardly never gets cold.
> Could you please share the pictures so that I can see what part to address.
> Best Regards,
> FC


See my and Simon's post back in July 2021. I'm in Central Texas and I had this problem year round until it was resolved.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

BorgusWeems said:


> Hi SimonRT! Sorry to single you out for a response so long after you posted your walk through, but i could really use some help/ideas if you can offer any. I followed your (while also looking at the posts from EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER) instructions because your pictures were the most comprehensive and helpful. The repair went fantastic.... or... so i thought.... Please bear with me trying to describe this as I know next to nothing about car repair. My nutring was cracked just like yours and everyone else's, and i was able to do everything listed to attempt the fix. Here is the process I went through in order:
> 
> 1. Trunk battery disconnect
> 2. Removal of cover and secondary air box
> ...


Did you reinstall the clip on the hydraulic line you pulled out of the valve block?


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

Darkness_89 said:


> Did you reinstall the clip on the hydraulic line you pulled out of the valve block?


Hey Darkness_89 thank you for replying,

I did reinstall the clip on the hydraulic line.


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

BorgusWeems said:


> Hey Darkness_89 thank you for replying,
> 
> I did reinstall the clip on the hydraulic line.


Okay. So when I did the ring repair I had numerous check engine lights, along with the conditions you listed, that I would reset with a generic odb-ii sensor. Once I lost the ability to accelerate I'd reset any fault codes and keep driving...rinse and repeat until the hybrid system started working again. Have you cleared your fault codes?


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## VWHYBRIDJETTA01 (9 mo ago)

Hi, 
I have a VW Jetta hybrid (2013) SE Europa model, and I have the same issue with the hybrid system. The electric motor and engine motor don't work together as they should. When I drive at low gears (D1, D2 and D3) it frequently changes from the engine to electric and it's very scary to drive because I can not predict. After all, it is uncomfortable to drive when it changes from engine to electric. 

My car can't turn on the electric mode (ONLY), it says unavailable to use the electric powertrain, so I think it's problem with the hybrid system (High voltage) or clutch that may disconnect the electric powertrain. When I drove from Denmark I saw a wrench symbol in the right top corner which is flashing up in an instrumental cluster. I looked it up in the owner manual to check what type of symbol it was. And the symbol that I get was meaning that my automatic transmission is malfunctioning. I don't have so much money to repair for 70000kr with is equivalent to 7000dollars. How can I fix this problem with less money, can I fix this by myself? And do u guys have some tips on what u did to make the car work again?


*DISCLAIMER!!!!*
*IF U THINKING OF VW, JUST FORGET IT!! THIS BRAND IS ONLY GENERATING MONEY NOT PEOPLE'S CARS! THE BEST CHOICE IS ALWAYS TOYOTA, cheap to run, cheap to fix, cheap to buy (these three fundamental things are what u need)! 
sorry but this will be the first and last VW I will buy and drive!*


Thanks for helping in advance!


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## VWHYBRIDJETTA01 (9 mo ago)

hi, 

My car is a Jetta Hybrid Sport European version, but it is the same car as the one delivered in the Americas. (I think this is like SLI in the US).

The Problem: As soon as the car tries to enter into electrical mode, by disconnecting the petrol engine, it automatically switch on the petrol engine again. This sequence is repeated continuously. 

The diagnostic output: If you run the diagnose test on your car, you would get a pressure problem in the hydraulic pump. Inside the automatic transmission (DSG7). Do u know what to do to repair it or what i can do to fix it cheap? 
Because fixing a dsg transmission is expensive, so if u guys have other alternatives, please help?🆘🙏

Thanks in advanced


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

Alright, I would like to provide an update after having my car towed to a mechanic. 

I would like to start by saying that this thread pointed me in exactly the right direction and my DIY fix did actually go quite well. If you read my initial posts to follow where it started going wrong was after i swapped out the damaged seal and didn't notice that the O-ring was also busted (or i busted it myself trying to fit the valve block back in). Driving around with that busted O-ring wrecked my clutch and i ended up having to have that replaced and the system drained and refilled. So do MAKE SURE THAT YOUR O-RING IS IN TACT after you change the seal. If it sprays fluid all over the place when you start the car (and do make sure to check before leaving the driveway, don't just immediately test drive it) then your O-ring is likely broken. You can find a replacement at any hardware store, just bring the ring and match it up. So other than royally messing up my clutch after the repair, this thread guided me through what initially needed to be done perfectly. After the clutch replacement, battery charge and some other miscellaneous costs (US $2,600 at my local shop) my car runs perfectly, and the electric motor also works as it did. 

I cannot stress enough that if i hadn't driven around on that busted O-ring i would not have had to have my car towed to replace the clutch. CHECK THE O-RING AFTER YOU CHANGE THE SEAL. Very happy to be on the road again after about two months of a lot of walking.


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

BorgusWeems said:


> Alright, I would like to provide an update after having my car towed to a mechanic.
> 
> I would even just say go ahead and replace that O-ring along with the seal even if it looks fine. Mine looked fine. Then i found pieces of it all over the engine bay after about a mile of driving.


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## Baha (9 mo ago)

SimonRT said:


> Hi, I would like to thank the author for this Post !
> 
> Since I’ve done this repair myself and it worked, I would like to share my DIY although many informations are already in other post (see EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER).
> 
> ...


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## Baha (9 mo ago)

Any one has a picture for the O ring?


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## BorgusWeems (11 mo ago)

Baha said:


> Any one has a picture for the O ring?












It's the one that goes right here! I don't remember the size. I just took my shredded pieces to ace hardware and picked the closest match.


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## Baha (9 mo ago)

SimonRT said:


> Hi, I would like to thank the author for this Post !
> 
> Since I’ve done this repair myself and it worked, I would like to share my DIY although many informations are already in other post (see EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER).
> 
> ...


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## Baha (9 mo ago)

Hi, 
Great work with this post. Same story as everyone so Im not going to repeat it, but after finding the problem and replacing the ring I put 30 ml as per manual. now the car stopped switching to electric, so no start stop at the signal light. the change that when you start it it goes to electric and stay on it until I try to move and then does funny sound and electric no longer available. 

any advise?


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## Baha (9 mo ago)

Baha said:


> Hi,
> Great work with this post. Same story as everyone so Im not going to repeat it, but after finding the problem and replacing the ring I put 30 ml as per manual. now the car stopped switching to electric, so no start stop at the signal light. the change that when you start it it goes to electric and stay on it until I try to move and then does funny sound and electric no longer available.
> 
> any advise?



Just needed sometime I guess. Its working!


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## Silviu Jetta 2013 (10 mo ago)

Hey Guys! Just wanted to share with you my experience with my Jetta hybrid 2013.
I found this thread while searching for a solution to my problem. While driving, Hybrid System Error popped up on my dash, car revved a little... pulled over. Stopped the engine for a couple of minutes, but then it won`t start. Waited for another 15 minutes, then like nothing hppened, car started and was on my way. But after a couple of kilometers, same error, pulled over. Waited couple of minutes, engine started, but won`t let me shift oup of P. Tunred off the engine again, but that was is, it didn`t let me start anymore, and a wrench appeared blinking where the "P" indicator was supposed to be. Had to get it on a platform and went to the Vw Service.
The mechatronic unit was broken, so they sad, and of course they don`t repair, they only replace. So out of my wallet came 1750 euro. 
Reading this thread, after my car was fixed, i came to think that maybe the solution that was presented here by the other guys, could have worked for me. 
After a few days, i popped the hood, just to wipe off the dust, as i do from time to time. And quite a big surprise i found. I`m posting the pics bellow. A cap was not put in place after the replacing of mecatronics. Of course i put it back, but my question is, what could have been the damage if i would`t have discovered the issue.


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## aaron613 (Jan 27, 2021)

Hey guys! Thanks so much for everyone on this thread. I wanted to give an update. 

I was having the same on/off "hiccup" that many had posted on here about. I saw there was a recall but my VIN wasn't included (it's a European car and the VIN wasn't showing up in the US system). Working with VW customer service, they finally got it and said the following:

Hi Aaron!

We are finally able to view your VIN in our system which is great  It looks like you have a recall for your Steering Wheel Clock Spring and Transmission Accumulator Housing. You also have a service action for your Mechatronic Unit Software.

These repairs will be %100 free at any Volkswagen dealership.

Sincerely, 

Cherelle G.
Volkswagen Customer CARE Web/Correspondence
Phone Advocate

Volkswagen of America, Inc.
3800 Hamlin Road
Auburn Hills, MI 48326
United States of America

The first time they did the recall for the transmission accumulator housing, it threw an engine code and VW US said to do it again, so they had to order the parts again. In the meantime, the service advisor worked with VW US and VW US said to warranty out the mechatronic unit. Apparently, they've had issues doing this recall/service action and doing it twice hadn't previously solved the problem. So new mechatronic unit, and hiccup is gone. So, check if your VIN is eligible for the Transmission Accumulator Housing recall and a) maybe it will fix the problem or b) they'll warranty out your mechatronic unit. The service tech did tell me that replacing the entire mechatronic unit was WAAAYYY easier/simpler/faster than doing the recall.


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## Mad Spencer (6 mo ago)

mattmnelson said:


> o, the repair information I have for the DSG 7 says not to open the m





SimonRT said:


> Hi, I would like to thank the author for this Post !
> 
> Since I’ve done this repair myself and it worked, I would like to share my DIY although many informations are already in other post (see EMELUM and OTTO-NOBETTER).
> 
> ...


Thanks Simon and other for this post. I finally have some hope. I'm experiencing the same problem with my 2014 Jetta Hybrid and I was quoted about 10k by a dealership in Madison, WI to replace the whole transmission (as they dont repair them). 
Car has got same problem as described here (indefinite series of “start and stop” when the car is at a red-light or in park mode). Basically the electric mode cannot engage and thats been happening for the last 4 weeks. 
I initially sent it to a local mechanic I know and the fault code that appeared was "Clutch 1 Tolerance Limit Reached P177B Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent". I then sent the car to VW dealership and their report says: "technician found the hybrid disengaging clutch system as failed and recommends replacing the transmission". 
1. Do you think this solution might fix my problem?
2. Whats a decent model VAG-COM tool scanner you would recommend?


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## cereal94 (7 mo ago)

I've had this problem now too for around 2 months - in addition to the start-stop problem, the check engine light will come on for 2-3 days at a time and then switch off.

Does anybody know if it's possible to just shut off the electric motor permanently? As in, the car would just function as if it's a regular gas engine car and not a hybrid. I'll try to do the seal fix in the meantime but am trying to think of contingency plans.


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## ChantelleLore' (4 mo ago)

emelum said:


> Hi, I would like to share with you the problem I have suffered in my Jetta, and the solution I have apply, in case someone else may benefit of this.
> 
> Please, note I am not a professional mechanic, I just like it. When you do this kind of repairs you are assuming some risks, please, always secure your safety as the first priority, and keep in mind that you may generate a worse problem if you don’t have the correct knowledge. So please, be careful and have fun!
> 
> ...


I can't see the picture also!! I'm in need badly I've tried everything g to fix this car.... and I don't have 8000 dollars to fix it at the shop! If u could send me the pics I'd be very grateful thank you


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## Darkness_89 (Jul 18, 2021)

ChantelleLore' said:


> I can't see the picture also!! I'm in need badly I've tried everything g to fix this car.... and I don't have 8000 dollars to fix it at the shop! If u could send me the pics I'd be very grateful thank you











Jetta Hybrid DSG 7 dry. Mechatronic problem (Engyne...


Hey guys, I'm going through this fix myself now and need some help. Lost a bunch of fluid so got the 1L of VW/Audi "gear oil" recommended above (bottle says G052145S2 Axle oil, $46 incl shipping from ECStuning). Hopefully this is right but no one seems to know for sure. But now where/how do I...




www.vwvortex.com





Please review the post by Simon_RT. His pics will get you what you need.


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