# Best mk4 2.0 8v cam



## kevin41288 (Oct 31, 2008)

What is the best cam for this model with no cel?


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## eurogt (May 23, 2004)

*Re: Best mk4 2.0 8v cam (kevin41288)*

260 AutoTech.


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## cstocks (Aug 2, 2007)

*Re: Best mk4 2.0 8v cam (eurogt)*

I agree. I love mine!


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

i say 270 autotech


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## rtbtitans50 (Sep 3, 2008)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*

WHY THE 270 OVER THE 260


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: (rtbtitans50)*


_Quote, originally posted by *rtbtitans50* »_WHY THE 270 OVER THE 260

Because +10 is always better.


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## rtbtitans50 (Sep 3, 2008)

*Re: (Jay-Bee)*

how do the numbers work for a cam im not really sure what they stand for


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*FV-QR*

http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm 
I think I have learned more from Google than Public school and college combined.


_Modified by Jay-Bee at 8:58 PM 12-10-2008_


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## rtbtitans50 (Sep 3, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (Jay-Bee)*

thanks


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## e-brake (Nov 20, 2008)

wait wait, I thought a 260+ will pull a CEL on OBDII cars?


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## Retr0grade (Apr 30, 2007)

*Re: Best mk4 2.0 8v cam (kevin41288)*

I have at TT 260 and I've gotten CELs thrown a few times. 270 is prob pretty ballin but I think maybe 260 is better for a daily.


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

i do not get codes for my 270 in my mk4


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## godoveryou (Apr 1, 2007)

*Re: (e-brake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *e-brake* »_wait wait, I thought a 260+ will pull a CEL on OBDII cars?

I heard the same thing. The naturally aspirated forum corrected me however. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Blue2.0 (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*

I've got a TT260 and love it. No CEL and I've been running it for about 4 months.


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## doodpod (Apr 27, 2004)

*Re: (e-brake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *e-brake* »_wait wait, I thought a 260+ will pull a CEL on OBDII cars?

I've had my Autotech 270º in there for about 75k miles (will turn 168k on the clock tomorrow.) Never had a cam-related CEL, no issues whatsoever. Pulls harder after 3500 RPM.
Just make sure to install HD springs and you'll be fine.


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## ChEeZJeTTa04 (Jun 1, 2007)

*Re: (doodpod)*

Anybody tried the Techtonics 268 cam? I got that one but havent put it in because I read that the 268/260 is the best for FI. Still want to put it in just for the hell of it.


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## SLVR SLUG (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vdubbugman53* »_i do not get codes for my 270 in my mk4

x2


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## e-brake (Nov 20, 2008)

Alright, sorry to hijack this thread but...
I was always under the impression 260 was the highest you can go on a OBDII car without throwing a CEL. Now i'm hearing people with 270 cams saying they have not thrown codes. What is the limit? Most manufacturers also seem to agree 260 is the limit without CEL (could be they are covering their butts but IDK)
I'll be doing the timing belt on my future fiance's 2005 MK4 Jetta 2.0L (metal impeller so no need to swap). 
I figured with how cheap these cams are I'd be dumb not to upgrade. Now, this car is used daily and also for road-trips/camping so I need an all around good cam (no idle issues/tq loss/ no valve spring swap). 
So would a TT268 be best? Car is all stock (I will drop in a filter or intake in the future along with a lightened crank pulley).


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## SLVR SLUG (Dec 10, 2006)

*Re: (e-brake)*


_Quote, originally posted by *e-brake* »_Alright, sorry to hijack this thread but...
I was always under the impression 260 was the highest you can go on a OBDII car without throwing a CEL. Now i'm hearing people with 270 cams saying they have not thrown codes. What is the limit? Most manufacturers also seem to agree 260 is the limit without CEL (could be they are covering their butts but IDK)
I'll be doing the timing belt on my future fiance's 2005 MK4 Jetta 2.0L (metal impeller so no need to swap). 
I figured with how cheap these cams are I'd be dumb not to upgrade. Now, this car is used daily and also for road-trips/camping so I need an all around good cam (no idle issues/tq loss/ no valve spring swap).

If that is whAt your looking for go with either the AT 260 or the TT 260. I had the TT and the idle is a little on the lobie side but nothing intolerable. 

So would a TT268 be best? Car is all stock (I will drop in a filter or intake in the future along with a lightened crank pulley).


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

i think 260 is the best you can do on stock valve train.....any cam will warrant new lifters though


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## MJM Autohaus (Oct 20, 2003)

*Re: (vdubbugman53)*

But of course, the Autotech 260 cam! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif In stock and on sale, too!


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## vdubbugman53 (Nov 7, 2006)

what is a stock cam?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

OBDII camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: Unknown
Duration @ .050": 210*/210*
Valve Lift: .417"
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: 110.8* / 109.2*
Lobe Center: 110*
Valve Timing: -5.8/35.8 - 34.2/-4.2
Valve Overlap: -10*
260 camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: 260*/256*
Duration @ .050" Unknown
Valve Lift: .421” / .409”
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: Unknown
Lobe Center: 111*
Valve Timing: Unknown
Valve Overlap: Unknown
You're better off with a Techtonics 260. More lift = more power.
260 camshaft measured @ .050"
Advertised Duration: 260*
Duration @ .050": 220*
Valve Lift: .432”
Lift @ TDC: Unknown
Centerlines: 108.68 / 111.4*
Lobe Center: 110*
Valve Timing: 1.4/38.6 – 41.1/-1.4
Valve Overlap: 0*


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## e-brake (Nov 20, 2008)

Thank you! 
So...
260 cam is great if you want to keep stock valve springs and not have a CEL.
>260 cam requires new valve springs and could potentially cause a CEL.


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## silentsee4 (Sep 4, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (tdogg74)*

so tdogg74 says that compaired to a stock cam the 260 is better. but what about the autotech 270? is it better than the 260?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

*FV-QR*

Stock camshafts are designed by the manufacturer to have a smooth idle and give optimum fuel economy with excellent drivability from idle to a modest redline. While this is ideal for “normal” cars, it is a hindrance when building an engine for all-out performance. Replacing your stock camshaft with a more aggressively-ground camshaft is the first step in letting your head move air more efficiently. Greater volumetric efficiency produces horsepower and torque.
Camshafts are sold by their Advertised Duration number. This number represents the actual seat-to-seat duration (as expressed in crankshaft degrees) taken at a .1mm checking height. When choosing a camshaft, the advertised duration will give you an idea as to where the power band will be. Generally speaking, a higher duration number translates into your usable power band being pushed further up the rpm range.
The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) of the camshaft lobe is where the peak lift occurs in crankshaft degrees either BTDC or ATDC. The LSA is the result of your lobe centerlines added together, then divided by two. Some camshafts are ground with identical lobe centers (e.g. 110° + 110° / 2 = 110°) while others have mismatched lobe centers (e.g. 109.5° + 110.5° = 110°). Although both cams share the same 110° Lobe center, their performance will be much different. The LSA will be a determining factor in what your valve overlap will be in relation to the duration you decide to go with. High-duration camshafts with wide LSAs (e.g. between 106°-110°) are ideal for upper rpm power and produce a lumpy idle. Narrower LSAs (e.g. 111°-115°) accentuate low-end torque and provide a smoother idle.
Lift is the total amount of valve movement created by the camshaft. Increased valve lift increases the total amount of power made over the entire rpm band. Watercooled VW/Audi heads use cam followers between the lobe and the valve stem. This means that the total lift provided from the camshaft lobe is the same lift that the valve will see.
It is important to remember that “bigger is better” does not apply here and that over-camming a head is a rookie mistake. Make sure you do your homework before investing. A camshaft well-matched to the head’s flow characteristics will deliver maximum torque and power across the desired power band. A cam that is ill-matched to the engine’s spec or the application (e.g. commuter vs. rally vs. drag) may make a vehicle slower if not simply unpleasant to drive.


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (silentsee4)*

Almost anything is better compared to a stock cam, just depends on where you want your power and if you don't mind idling at 900-1050rpm.
Look for tdogg's camshaft thread, I have learned a metric ****load from it, I had no idea what all those silly numbers meant.


_Modified by Jay-Bee at 8:16 PM 12-17-2008_


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## GaTeIg (Jul 6, 2005)

tt266 cam here and I love it. just upgrade springs and have throttle raised via a nice custom burned chip. no cels in the year ive been running it.


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## vduben kfed (Dec 9, 2008)

when getting a cam do you need to chip it??


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## macanic21 (Feb 20, 2007)

tdogg74 said:


>


LOL!


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## TriTard (Jan 26, 2011)

with a cam that does trigger a CEL, it wont shut the engine down or anything like that will it? i mean, does it really matter if the computer likes the new cam or not?


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## DerekCaven (Feb 24, 2011)

So If I were to put in a 260 AutoTech with everything else stock, and bolt it back up, it should fire no problems? 

Basically a 260 AutoTech is just bolt up and go?

If this is the case Im getting me one


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## SirSpectre (Mar 20, 2011)

DerekCaven said:


> So If I were to put in a 260 AutoTech with everything else stock, and bolt it back up, it should fire no problems?
> 
> Basically a 260 AutoTech is just bolt up and go?
> 
> If this is the case Im getting me one


Pretty much


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## kevinescobar15 (Apr 27, 2010)

I have techtonics 276 with HD springs and it works great. Of course I have done some headwork also and recently chipped it. I have an AEG mk4 and I recently passed emissions. I get a CEL every once in awhile but it shows as a random misfire in all cylinders but other than that it runs great and with the new tunning I get great power from 4k to almost 7k. Rev limiter hits at 7300 but from 7k to 7300 it feels like it doesn't give any more power.


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

ok... im frustrated because i want to put a 260 autotech and hd springs in a (mexican made) 02 head. it will be going on a 99.5 AEG 2.0l. (german made) i had everything priced out from a local shop in calgary. they told me that the stuff i had picked out was for a mk3 only and wouldnt work at all in my mk4 and that if i wanted to do this it would cost me a small fortune for negligible power increases...and im better off selling my car and getting a 1.8t...:what::banghead: i love my 8v:heart: from what ive read, i should be able to accomplish my goal with the parts ive picked out. because its a mexican head i shouldnt have to change the lower spring seats to use the dual spring setup, and that the cam should work... someone please set me straight. i was planning to do this work the first weekend in september. and im totally confused.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

First of all, the person at that show who told you this is a dip****. That cam will work fine. 
Second, you dont need HD dual springs for that small cam. 
Third, man up and swap the cam and lifters yourself. It will take 2 hours tops.


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

thank you for the quick response.. im going to put the cam and springs into a separate head that ive ported a bit on the exhaust side  and swap the heads. is there more than one autotech 260 head? one for mk3 only? just asking..


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

99.5mk4 said:


> thank you for the quick response.. im going to put the cam and springs into a separate head that ive ported a bit on the exhaust side  and swap the heads. is there more than one autotech 260 head? one for mk3 only? just asking..


 sorry dont know how to edit..... the lifters need changing? if your talking about the cap looking things between the cam and springs... why do they have to be changed?


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Yes, change the lifters. 

Also, get rid of the AT260. Its actually a 260* in the intake and a 256* on the exhaust side. Its even got less lift on the exhaust side than the stock cam. Complete waste of time installing that. If you are dropping a cam in a (somewhat) worked head, ditch that 260 and go with either a TT266 or an AT270. Either of those cams have a lot less overlap than that 260 and will provide TONS more power. Plus it will be a smoother idle. You are gonna have to get chipped anyway, might as well make the HD spring upgrade worth your while. (that 260 doesnt even need upgraded springs)


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## greyhare (Dec 24, 2003)

99.5mk4 said:


> sorry dont know how to edit..... the lifters need changing? if your talking about the cap looking things between the cam and springs... *why do they have to be changed?*


 The lifters wear to the cam. If you put used lifters with a new cam you will be replacing the cam again soon.


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## (ke) (Aug 27, 2006)

I have a 266 cam in my rebuilt stock head w/ pem software.. only internal upgrade is dual springs, retainers, & l/w lifters. even before i installed my LRI, i feel this cam is great. a 260 is def better then stock as seen in a friends car, but if you're doing a cam and not going to do any headwork except springs, retainers, & lifters, i'd suggest the 266 to anybody. add an adj. cam gear and you'll have a fun daily. and btw, with any software to back up the 266 it will idle a tiny bit higher then norm, but not lumpy at all.


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

thank you all for the advise.. i bought the at270 new lifters and hd springs.. i was told the lower valve spring seats dont have to change to use the hd springs with a mexican head. true or false? also should stock upper retainers work with hd springs?


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

99.5mk4 said:


> thank you all for the advise.. i bought the at270 new lifters and hd springs.. i was told the lower valve spring seats dont have to change to use the hd springs with a mexican head. true or false? also should stock upper retainers work with hd springs?


 Stop confusing mexican/german obd-1/obd-2 info. 

None of that applies to MK4 2.0s 

BTW United Motorsport for software.


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

ok. thank you. so i returned the springs and purchased a kit. (springs seats retainers) i will be porting and polishing the head and installing the kit and the new lifters/followers as well as the at270. the first weekend in september...  however, i will be using the stock software until i can afford it.  is there anything i should be concerned about? im not going to be driving the hell out of it, but i will satisfy my curiosity....


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Your idle will be choppy and its gonna run like a little lethargic until you get a software update. No harm will come by running the cam, but once you get software and its running properly, you will understand why we all say to get software with a bigger cam.


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## GTI276 (Jan 30, 2008)

so i would ask who told u to get a 1.8t cause they are not smart enough to touch a vehicle the set up u picked is good if u run fi 260 is ok na go for 270 and change the valve train


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

GTI276 said:


> so i would ask who told u to get a 1.8t cause they are not smart enough to touch a vehicle the set up u picked is good if u run fi 260 is ok na go for 270 and change the valve train


 What??


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

it just seems like everytime i go into that shop for parts or advise, i get nowhere. they seem to be catering to the 1.8t or the tdi guys. theres no love for us 2.0... man, its going to cost me the same amount for the software as it did for all the head stuff i bought. seems like a rip. ive got another computer from an aeg 2.0 jetta i can send anywhere to get done. anyone know someone with some smarts and vag com? but then again, the shop told me that they would solder a chip in.. much like the mk3s.. im confused. and hung over sorry for my ignorance.


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## (ke) (Aug 27, 2006)

i dont think i would trust this shop if i were you, i've worked on lots of mk2's & 3's, no "solder in chips" on those. simply remove the old chip and install the re-mapped chip for your cam profile. plug-n-play. im not particularly familiar w/ the 1.8t, but im pretty sure those can be flashed or soldered in.


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## 99.5mk4 (May 21, 2010)

The shop phoned Auto Tech when I was there to day, (had to pick up a new wiper assembly) and they told them that they stopped selling their mk4 chips designed for the 270 cams because no one was buying them. AT said that my stock ecu (ecm?) idk.. would handle everything I was doing to the head with minor idle differences. All the research ive done leads me to believe that your suposed to just flash it thru the OBDII port. Is this done with the VAG COM software? If so, i could do it. just need the flash file.. and a parallel to usb adapter.  

hey, just thought of something. should i get new valve seals? do they exist on this head? nvm, they are included in the kit i bought. :facepalm:


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## (ke) (Aug 27, 2006)

I know you can flash it through the port, just not familiar as to how one would go about doing so. I would assume that you use a VAG COM with the sepcific file, however we all know what happens when one assumes...


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## Jay-Bee (Sep 22, 2007)

GTI276 said:


> so i would ask who told u to get a 1.8t cause they are not smart enough to touch a vehicle the set up u picked is good if u run fi 260 is ok na go for 270 and change the valve train


I don't even know what you said, but the At270 is a very happy cam with boost or NA 



(ke) said:


> i dont think i would trust this shop if i were you, i've worked on lots of mk2's & 3's, no "solder in chips" on those. simply remove the old chip and install the re-mapped chip for your cam profile. plug-n-play. im not particularly familiar w/ the 1.8t, but im pretty sure those can be flashed or soldered in.


Many early 2.0s (mk4), 1.8Ts and VRs had to be physically soldered on. that is changed now with the progress they have made in the last ~13 years of tuning them, even when the 2.0T FSI came out they didn't have the port flashing down and had to remove and resolder the chip, i was in a big Unitronic group buy and we had at least 1 person there with every engine option. However most AEGs do have to be bench flashed, I know first hand.


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