# Oil Change From Hell; Please Help!



## holmsted1 (Oct 22, 2008)

So almost two weeks ago I took my new-to-me 2013 VW GTI to get an oil change (at a local Pep Boys). I bought the car used in April and have only put 1,500 miles on it in that time. Immediately after getting my car back, I got a low oil pressure light. Literally as I rolled out of the parking lot it came on. Went back in, had them check it out, and an hour or so later no one had any answers. I got my money back and took it to a nearby garage that deals exclusively with European cars. They ran an oil pressure test, and confirmed that the car did have low oil, and it was not a sensor or anything like that. The also confirmed the oil level was fine, and that the filter seemed OK as well. That garage then wanted over $600 to drop the oil pan and look around. For that fee, I decided to have my car towed to the nearest VW dealer instead, and have them run some diagnostics. 

Now at the VW dealer, they pulled the pan and found metal shavings. They service manager said no debris was found and it seems there isnt anything blocking the tube or screens, but they they wouldnt really know for sure without further investigation. They now want to pull apart the engine to look around further, as they seem to think there's some internal issue.

Does any of this sound correct? Keep in mind in the short 3 months I had ZERO issues driving the car. No check engine lights, nothing. The car has just over 79k on it. This all happened immediately after getting the car back from the oil change. I just got the car and have made a whooping 3 payments, and since it's a used car there isnt any Lemon Law or refund possibility at the dealer I got it at. I don't really have the money for VW to spend hours and hours ripping apart my car without any sign as to what could be the issue. What would you all do in my situation? 

I really really really appreciate the help. Thanks! 

-Haden


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## Butcher (Jan 31, 2001)

It's a false premise to assume that Pep Boys had anything to do with the low oil pressure. 

Since it's a used car, a lot of used cars are cars that the previous owner did not want to repair. That usually means there is a big issue. There are exceptions, but most smaller lots buy at the auction and most auctions are just the local dumping ground for cars with major issues.

I really see no way of locating the cause without a disassembly. That certainly will not be cheap and just because you take everything apart, does not mean you will find the root cause. Too bad you could not get the original oil filter. That filter would clearly have evidence of the original oil. 

A used engine may be the easiest to get your car back on the road, might be cheapest too. 

On a side note, why does anyone ever send a car to Pep Boy's, Jiffy Lube, etc? The quality of oil filters are about as low as it gets. Do you hoard money that much that you cannot go to some place that uses an OEM filter and OEM oil? Do not take it personal, I own an auto repair shop and every time I remove an oil filter that was installed by the cheaper places, the filter crumbles like potato chips. If you only know what you're getting, you probably would not go back. That is all I'm trying to say.


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## OldBeater (Jan 13, 2017)

Oh my God, sorry to hear man. As Butcher stated, you don't have evidence to prove pep boys had something to. Do with it. Could be something they did, or a total coincidence. There could have already been something major that was wrong. Maybe the previous owner knew about it, maybe they didn't. It's all hard to say. Sad to say, but looks like you got really bad luck on this one. Did you get the car inspected before you bought it? 

General tips would be to get the car inspected by a VW/German car shop before buying. Also, ask the previous owner if they kept maintenance records. If the answer is no, then they didn't care about the car. Another reason to walk away. Remember these are not Honda/Toyos, they're really going to need a solid maintenance record.

As for what to do now, you could swap the engine, or pay the cash to go exploring for the issue. My feeling is an engine swap might be better. You could also cut your losses and dump the car for something else.

All in all,. I think you're kind of stick with a large bill either way. If it makes you feel any better, I bought a GTI, with a bum clutch (didn't get it inspected like I should have). I decided to stick with it and eat the cost on the new clutch. The replacement clutch was also bad, so had to drop a second one in too (got a warranty replacement on the parts, but not the labor). Finally things are good now. Car problems are solvable, it's just a question of your cost tolerance.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## a_riot (Jun 14, 2005)

First off, don't ever take your VW to an oil monkey to change the oil. Do it yourself. There are many things they could have done to mess things up, like putting in too thin an oil, which will make the oil sensor trigger, or accidentally putting something other than oil in it by mistake, or put the oil filter in backwards, or who knows. Maybe they took it for a joy ride and knackered your oil pump. They don't care about your car, only their profits. 

If it were me, I would drain the oil, replace the oil filter and oil and see what happens. If the oil and the filter is correct and you still have issues, then I'd drop the oil pan and look at the oil pump and see if its seized. The last thing I would do is let the dealer rip the engine apart looking for something. You might as well just hand them a blank check, your car, and say "have at it". The previous owner may have pulled a fast one, and added something to the oil to make it seem ok until the next oil change. Hard to say without more information.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

When people sell used cars with oil pressure issues, they will put a much thicker oil
in it, to keep the pressure high, even with damage, it can work for a while. So, 
maybe, someone put 10W40, 15W40 in there so the pressure would be high and not
trigger the light. Then when you had the oil change done, reverted back to 5W30, well, 
the problem showed itself with the thinner oil. There are many tricks to hide engine 
problems, this is one of them. As long as they did not use a 0W20 or 0W30 oil, then
more then likely, you bought it used with an issue, and they used thicker oil to hide
it. I have has come clunkers in my life, with low oil pressure issues, like at idle,
and I just put a thicker oil in it to shut it up. I know the engine would eventually
go, but the thicker oil was like a band-aid...

People used to put saw-dust into manual transmission oil to hide noises and a coming failure...


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## surfstar (Mar 13, 2016)

This is the most important thing and no one has mentioned it:

*Which specific oil did Pep Boys use? *

If they put in an oil that was not VW 502 rated, as required by your vehicle, then they are on the hook, whether it was coincidental or not. 


What does the receipt say?


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

surfstar said:


> .....
> 
> *If they put in an oil that was not VW 502 rated*, as required by your vehicle, then they are on the hook, whether it was coincidental or not.
> 
> ...


Not true, IMO...

I used Rotella T6 and Delo400 in my former '13 TDI, 243,500+ miles, all original
drive-train and their related parts. I never used 507.00 oil in it, NEVER... Both
were 5W40 oils, for diesels, but not 507.00 approved. 

Even if they used Castrol Edgs or Mobile 1 5W30, not 502/505 rated, it would NOT effect pressure.

One OCI with that, would also not effect the motor diversely.

You can look up the specifications of a 502/505 oil, and then compare it with another oil. If it
meets those specifications, you can use it... There are 7 categories for their oil performance,
and if joe blow's oil meets the same specs in those categories, then you can use it.

This is, sludge, piston deposits, sooth thickening, oxidation thickening, after treatment compatibility,
wear, and fuel economy. So, if an oil meets or exceeds those ratings for the 50X.00 in those
categories, you can use it. 

GM uses a Dexos1 (GAS) and Dexos2 (DIESEL) label on oils in the same way. Except, there ARE 
other oils that meet or exceed those specs, but refuse to pay GM for the licensing to put the Dexos
logo/label on their oil. 

Castrol has always been a choice of oil for the European market. It was Syntec, now Edge...

Say an oil meets all the 502/505 conditions except fuel mileage, does that mean you should not
use it? NO... You just get less MPGs...

Piston deposits is only more important with DIRECT injected systems. That then translates
to valve deposits, since fuel does not flow over the intake valves anymore to clean them.

Thickening? If you're gonna change it every 5000/7000 miles, you're in no danger of that. 

Wear? Well, you got to look deeper into that, but with <=10000 mile changes, that should
not be an issue either as ALL synthetics were made to last 25,000 miles or more. That was
the whole point of synthetic motor oil; to reduce waste, but they STILL have OCIs the same
as conventional oils. So, what's that now? They scare people into these specifications...

504 and 507 have concerns in ALL seven of those categories, and what does After treatment
Compatibility even mean? The other ones don't even have a requirement for After
Treatment compatibility. 505.00 doesn't even have concerns in Oxidative Thickening, 
Fuel Economy, or after treatment compatibility. So, how can an engine be required to
use 502 or 505, when 502 has more requirements and exceeds the 505? So, instead you see an
oil, like 5W40 Castrol Edge carry a 501/502/505 approval. So, they take the approval
that meets the highest standards in those categories, which is 502, which exceeds the 501 and 
505 specifications; and put that on the label.

I am willing to bet you can use a top quality conventional oil if you changed it every 3000 miles...
Sludge is a concern with all conventional oils...

I always defy specifications, bold face defiance, and my cars last for well over 200,000
miles before I trade or get another one. I am living proof that specifications don't mean crap. 
I will be stuck with this '15 TSI till it dies, and are over 80,000 miles now, so we'll see how
important VW specs are; as with the TDI I never used their spec oil on... I have used
Castrol oils since I knew it existed, in ALL my cars. Wollfshead every once in a while...

You can't say it's just me, I am not special, and I am not a magician. Why do my
engines last over 200,000 miles with oil not even recommended for them. Why?
Because it's a lie so you pay premium prices for THEIR oil. 

I will see all your arguments and all your "Nuh uh!!" replies, but I do it, every oil
change. Though, I am using Castrol Edge 5W40 that carries the certifications,
and that is by chance, because CASTROL has always been my oil of choice in gas
engines. I will also be using Mobile 1 0W40 this winter, as it was CHEAP, and also 
just so happens to carry the certifications. But, I never used the 507.00 spec
oil in my '13 TDI, even had the factory timing and serpentine belt at buy-back.


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## surfstar (Mar 13, 2016)

PowerslavePA said:


> Not true, IMO...


You fail to see the point, and I'm sorry you had to write all that (I didn't read it all).

The point being, that if a service shop installs the wrong spec fluid and you have it in writing, then an oil-related issue arises...
THEY ARE LIABLE.

That is the most important part for the OP, in this case. What oil was used and is it printed on the receipt. 

This is why tire shops will not install tires that are less than the OEM speed rating for a car - not because there's anything wrong with the tires, but because of _potential _*liability*.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

surfstar said:


> You fail to see the point, and I'm sorry you had to write all that *(I didn't read it all).*


Then you can't yap...

Wrong specification oil won't effect pressure, 5W30 -vs- 5W30 50x.00, won't make
a lick of difference in pressure. 

Say, 0W20? Different story...


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