# Where to run power wire for amplifier???



## v8cam1969 (Jun 19, 2009)

I am replacing all of the speakers in my CC and I need to run a power wire from the battery to my amplifiers. In all of my previous cars, this was easy. There was plenty of room in the engine bay and no where near the amount of insulation.
My problem is, I can't tell where to drill on the firewall to ensure that I will not hit or damage anything on the otherside.







My other option would be running the power wire on the exterior of the car and entering the car near the trunk. 
If you have installed an amplifier in your car, where did you run the power wire?


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## MBH (Jun 19, 2009)

*Re: Where to run power wire for amplifier??? (v8cam1969)*

if you have an auto or DSG, run it through where the clutch pedal would go


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## UMJonny (Dec 7, 2009)

There is a soft rubber grommet that a bundle of wires runs through in the drivers footwell. If you remove the battery, you can reach it.


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## PhatazzMkIVJetta (Oct 11, 2001)

*Re: (UMJonny)*


_Quote, originally posted by *UMJonny* »_There is a soft rubber grommet that a bundle of wires runs through in the drivers footwell. If you remove the battery, you can reach it.

I was going to suggest that as well. Normally there is some type of grommet or "foam plug" that can be easily removed..
Let us know how it works out. I have been contemplating adding a sub but havent had the time yet


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## v8cam1969 (Jun 19, 2009)

I have a manual, so the clutch pedal idea is a no go.
Unfotunately I will be running a good bit of power to my subs and speakers (~1500-1700 watts) so I am using a large 0/1 gauge wire. I doubt this will fit through that rubber grommet. I will check that option out and see if I can squeeze it in there....


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## PhatazzMkIVJetta (Oct 11, 2001)

*Re: (v8cam1969)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v8cam1969* »_I have a manual, so the clutch pedal idea is a no go.
Unfortunately I will be running a good bit of power to my subs and speakers (~1500-1700 watts) so I am using a large 0/1 gauge wire. I doubt this will fit through that rubber grommet. I will check that option out and see if I can squeeze it in there....

usually its a decent size grommet that should easily fit the 0 gauge wire. Even if it is a smaller size grommet hole, you can at least get a good idea of where to create a new hole next to it.
Good luck w/it and let us know


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## v8cam1969 (Jun 19, 2009)

*Re: (PhatazzMkIVJetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PhatazzMkIVJetta* »_
usually its a decent size grommet that should easily fit the 0 gauge wire. Even if it is a smaller size grommet hole, you can at least get a good idea of where to create a new hole next to it.
Good luck w/it and let us know

Surprisingly the grommet was plenty big enough for the 0 gauge wire. The grommet was fairly easy to get to as long as your hands are not massive. The battery does need to be romoved as well as the Carbonio intake (in my case). I had to remove the intake, because the MAF sensor is directly above the battery hold down clamp. If I would have had a 12" extension, I probably could have avoided removing the intake. But I didn't and it gave me the opportunity to clean the air filter.
Once inside the cabin, I ran the power wire under the door sill trim. There is actually a opening/channel under the trim that fits the wire pretty well. However, you do need to remove the trim to get it there. You can't just tuck the wire under the trim. The only spot that didn't have enough room was around the back seat. The channel that neatly holds the wire, ends at the back seat. I had to remove the bottom of the back seat in order to finish running the wire into the trunk. This was actaully pretty simple. There are two compression fittings holding the front of the seat down. These pull up pretty easily. Once these are pulled up, you and see the two "hooks" on the outside/underneath part of the seat. To unhook these, you push down right above the hook point and slide the seat towards the trunk. One quick motion should do it. With the seat out of the way, you run the power wire under the carpet, then under the seat, into the trunk.
Grounding wire: there is a very convenient unused threaded bolt hole in the spare tire well. You need to remove the styrofoam jack holder to get to it. It is perfect for attaching your ground. I am not sure what size bolt is require. I had a bunch of spare bolts that I sorted through until I found what fit.


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## PhatazzMkIVJetta (Oct 11, 2001)

*Re: (v8cam1969)*


_Quote, originally posted by *v8cam1969* »_
Surprisingly the grommet was plenty big enough for the 0 gauge wire. The grommet was fairly easy to get to as long as your hands are not massive. The battery does need to be romoved as well as the Carbonio intake (in my case). I had to remove the intake, because the MAF sensor is directly above the battery hold down clamp. If I would have had a 12" extension, I probably could have avoided removing the intake. But I didn't and it gave me the opportunity to clean the air filter.
Once inside the cabin, I ran the power wire under the door sill trim. There is actually a opening/channel under the trim that fits the wire pretty well. However, you do need to remove the trim to get it there. You can't just tuck the wire under the trim. The only spot that didn't have enough room was around the back seat. The channel that neatly holds the wire, ends at the back seat. I had to remove the bottom of the back seat in order to finish running the wire into the trunk. This was actaully pretty simple. There are two compression fittings holding the front of the seat down. These pull up pretty easily. Once these are pulled up, you and see the two "hooks" on the outside/underneath part of the seat. To unhook these, you push down right above the hook point and slide the seat towards the trunk. One quick motion should do it. With the seat out of the way, you run the power wire under the carpet, then under the seat, into the trunk.
Grounding wire: there is a very convenient unused threaded bolt hole in the spare tire well. You need to remove the styrofoam jack holder to get to it. It is perfect for attaching your ground. I am not sure what size bolt is require. I had a bunch of spare bolts that I sorted through until I found what fit. 

Awesome man, glad you got it all taken care of. Thanks for the info. Hopefully I will be able to tackle this sometime soon


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## charsawbis (Jul 20, 2004)

*Re: (v8cam1969)*

Thanks for the info. I have been waiting to install an amp and sub myself. 
Did you use a line out converter? or have you replaced the head unit too?


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## v8cam1969 (Jun 19, 2009)

*Re: (charsawbis)*


_Quote, originally posted by *charsawbis* »_Thanks for the info. I have been waiting to install an amp and sub myself. 
Did you use a line out converter? or have you replaced the head unit too?


I replaced the Head Unit also with a Pioneer AVIC Z-110BT.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

I will be installing an amplifier + subwoofer real soon. I glanced under that there's a patch next to the brake (mine's a DSG), how would I remove one of the plug (grommet i believe)? Does the battery needs to be removed in order to take it out?

Does anyone have a picture or running the power wire? Much appreciated. Thanks.


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## VdubTX (Jul 5, 2003)

Epence said:


> I will be installing an amplifier + subwoofer real soon. I glanced under that there's a patch next to the brake (mine's a DSG), how would I remove one of the plug (grommet i believe)? Does the battery needs to be removed in order to take it out?
> 
> Does anyone have a picture or running the power wire? Much appreciated. Thanks.


I do have pics of it at home. I needed to access the grommet to wire up my fogs. You do need to remove the battery to get access to it from the engine bay. From under the dash it is simply removing the foam cut out and you will see the rubber grommet. Don't push it from inside or you risk having it drop into the engine bay.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

Thanks for the tips, I'll look into more this weekend


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

Now my next question is, tapping the rear speakers wires.

I'm probably want to place the amp under driver's seat. Good choice?

*1.* Should I remove the _rear door panels_ to tap or remove the _bottom plastic frame_ (where the sills placed)?

Or 

*2.* Should I run the wires behind the head unit?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

Also, does anyone know which wire behind the head unit is the lead to on/off, so that i can tap it for ampifier remote. Thanks.


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## 09BlackCC (Jan 31, 2011)

Epence said:


> Also, does anyone know which wire behind the head unit is the lead to on/off, so that i can tap it for ampifier remote. Thanks.


Juat wrap it around one of the fuses, i forget which one i used but it only turns on if the cars fully on.


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

I saw a diagram of the pins online (forgot where I found it) and I looked behind the head unit pins, brown is the ground wire, below it, is empty, i believe it's for the Dyaudio amp output. 

Can anyone confirm if that can be the remote lead wire to the aftermarket amp for on/off or it's a signal input?


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## gordonyz (Mar 9, 2011)

http://www.my-gti.com/529/volkswagen-rns-510-pin-assignments


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## Epence (Jan 7, 2010)

thanks, i guess that answered my questions. Tapping speaker wires for signal it is, and using +12v cigarette lighter for remote lead eace:


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## xx4u2nvxx (Nov 28, 2010)

v8cam1969 said:


> _Quote, originally posted by *charsawbis* »_Thanks for the info. I have been waiting to install an amp and sub myself.
> Did you use a line out converter? or have you replaced the head unit too?
> 
> 
> I replaced the Head Unit also with a Pioneer AVIC Z-110BT.


 What features did you lose by replacing your stock headunit? I see majority of the people who replace their HU go w/the RNS510 but if I'm not mistaken, that unit is well of a G right? If I'm going to spend over a G on a DVD/NAV unit, it would be on an aftermarket one w/far more features BUT at the same time, I don't want to lose alot of features going w/aftermarket. Any feedback?


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## jkeith72 (Feb 14, 2011)

xx4u2nvxx said:


> What features did you lose by replacing your stock headunit? I see majority of the people who replace their HU go w/the RNS510 but if I'm not mistaken, that unit is well of a G right? If I'm going to spend over a G on a DVD/NAV unit, it would be on an aftermarket one w/far more features BUT at the same time, I don't want to lose alot of features going w/aftermarket. Any feedback?


 MFD functionality, factory Bluetooth, and steering wheel controls...not sure if There is an adapter to get this back on the VW 

I thought about going aftermarket, but I like Having all of the things I would lose. My last car, I had a Kenwood dnx-7160 installed and the bluetooth sucked ass for calls, but the AD2P worked well. Most options, at least with Kenwood, were a la cart (satellite radio, hd radio, ipod and other cables sold separately). Garmin nav interface is hard to beat on the Kenwoods tho. 

I will more than likely buy the F version of the rns-510. Supposedly has faster processor and other improvements. Add to that, built in Sirius, hd radio, SD slot, hard drive, decent iPod interface, AD2P, And is plug and play (with vag-com)....not such a bad $1800 radio after all, in my opinion. 

But again, if you want to install amps...not having pre-outs can be a deal breaker...For some at least... 

Oh, and thieves LOVE aftermarket nav systems! Just ask the one who has mine!


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