# Burning Hot Fuel Pump relay



## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

Just like the title says. I drive the rocco around for a few mins and the relay is burning hot and my fuel pumps start whining like crazy and after a while the rocco is dead and I cant get it restarted for about 5-10mins. Last time I got it to the place I was going to and I put the relay in the freeze to cool it off. Then I left for home and I didnt have a problem until after I got back home and the rocco died after I pulled into the driveway. It was also a very hot day in kentucky.


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## blubullet509 (Oct 15, 2007)

Try a new relay. Are the relays or sockets terminals corroded??


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

your fuel pump is going. running it will cause the mentioned corrosion on the fusebox wiring connector.


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

rats... the fuel relay has some rust on the nubbys and some white stuff on the socket.. Im going to find a new relay. hoping I can get one locally. I will let you know if that fixes the issue.


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

funny thing is I had replaced the in tank pump like 4-6 months ago and did not have this problem. I had one other problem that has come back as well. If Im at half a tank of gas and hammer on it it will cut out and die idle down to about 500-900 rpm and come back alive.


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

well my pump that I had as a spare from a parts car is rusted together. Soo now I have to find another one or buy new.... ggsshh...


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

antichristonwheels said:


> your fuel pump is going. running it will cause the mentioned corrosion on the fusebox wiring connector.


Whether your right or wrong makes no difference to me but could you explain this?? I have never heard of anything like this in all my years and I am no electrictian so I can't really comment. I for one would like to hear the reason behind just why this would happen if the pump is going or is bad.


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

Well the pump was replaced. Still runs great until it get up to temp and then you sputters and dies until its cool again. 20-30mins later. would the CTS cause this if the O2 sensor is bad as well? I check my DPR and I do not get a reading at all. If I rev it I get some readings but nothing after it goes to idle. I swapped out the DPR with a known good one and still the same issue. another test I did I let the motor get up to temp and then cracked open each injector line on top of the dizzy and I did not get fuel in any of the lines but one.. The only other thing I could think would be the CTS. I am going to run the motor again and let it get to temp and let it die. Then check the resistance of the cts and see if thats out of spec.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

as the pump is going out it gets harder to turn. This causes it to draw more current and over time this will corrode the connectors that carry it. On German Rabbits this would commonly happen on a pin from the pump to the fusebox.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

So it's doing it on a new pump. How's your fuel filter? Your rubber fuel hoses in the tank are all ok? I know they are known to deteriorate.

How's your wiring-- both behind the fuel pump relay and at the fuel pumps? Have you checked your main pump under the car?


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

As far as the tank and hoses all new. Just replaced the main pump. It may be the transfer pump or it may now. I know that I replaced it 3-5 months ago and I did not have this problem. Before I replaced it If I was hammering on it, it would cut out and be non responsive until it got to idle then it would be ok but I dont think it would stubble and die when it gets hot.


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

OK.. got it fixed....I am such a R Tard:banghead::banghead:!!!. feel free to kick me at the next rocco meet. my damn transfer pump was just barely connected to the fuel line which cause the main pump to over heat and stop. We did all the test and all the pin out test as well and everything was sorta in spec. I need a new cts and maybe a dpr the ohm range was from like 17-22ohm it was 22.7. cts @ 150 degrees cel. was 300. and the range was like 350-450. Free case of :beer::beer: to all you for helping out. lot of good help.


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

thanks for filling us in. I am always cursed with some "do over"

On my 16V carbed Rabbit truck I did all this work to get it going. 

Dumbass I left the oil galley plug out, made a mess and had to pull the trans, clutch, flywheel, shield to install a fricken 50cent plug.


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## DigiFaNt (Aug 28, 2001)

no problem. I try to post up when I fix something. but here recently its been my making problems. My test list should be the following: write down what I have done in the past 3-4months and start there, then all the oem test. lol again thx guys


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