# UOA: Total Quartz ineo mc3 5w30, 1.8tsi



## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

This is my first oil report for the car. I wanted to run low saps oils to slow IVD. One oil change I thought I'd just go with what works (mobil 1) and then changed my mind again. I'll be running VW 502/505.01 C3 oils until the warranty is up then I'll switch to 504/507 fully. The car has roughly 26k miles right now.


Details:


@ 5k miles: Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w30
@ 10k miles: Mobil 1 0w40
@ 15k miles: Total Quartz Long Life 504/507 (bought the wrong oil, meant to buy the T.Q. Ineo mc3)
@ 20k miles: Oil reported below


Fuel: Mostly Shell 87
Commute: 26 miles each way, 75% highway
Driving style: I've been told I drive slow but I do get on it now and then.
_*Goals: Slow IVD formation and hopefully get a 10k oci on this oil. Will a 4.8 TBN allow that? I saw a blackstone VOA for this oil that showed TBN at ~7.4 if I recall.*_





From Total:


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## alexdva (Mar 30, 2016)

Hi Vr6oom,

I have a 2015 S3 with 10.3k miles and also trying to reduce IVD and oil consumption as much as possible. After a bunch of research that I have done to find the lowest possible noack, saps for 5w40, which is the viscosity recommended. I have settled for redline 5w40 euro series, just got my UOA back from Blackstone after 5k miles and everything is looking fine for extended oil use. So far little to no oil consumption, I'd be testing again at 7.5k miles as recommended by Blackstone.

Do Total quartz make low saps 5w40 oil?, cause the lowest I have been able to find is mid-saps.


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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

I don't believe so. Don't get too caught up in oil weight. The manual for my car says to use 5w40 as well but 5w30 is fine "if a 40 weight isn't available". As you can see from my uoa above, it's been great for me. The only 5w40 low saps oil I'm aware of is Pentosin hp2...it is a "mid saps" but in reality if it's under 0.8 it's low. Some lower than others. The Redline your using is mid saps as well being that it doesn't have a 504/507 approval.

Is your uoa online? I'd like to see it as Redline oils are interesting. I used them in my research but I wanted something with less hths for good fuel economy and that is warranty compliant. Redline is something I'll be looking into down the road.

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## alexdva (Mar 30, 2016)

Here's my uoa,









Yea, I really want to stick to 5w40 oil weight just for the fact how hot these S3 2.ot DI engines run. Redline 5w40 euro was the only one that was mid saps, a noack below 6 and group v (ester base stock) oils. I can tell you fuel economy wise is still avg 26, I do all city miles. I will do a search on that pentosi ph2 to see how much data i can find on it. 

Eventually, I would like to take a look down the intake to see how much deposit is getting there, but i am still trying to figure out how do it without removing a whole lot of engine stuff.


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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

It's VW approved and my main reason for not going Redline...because, yea, they're specs on paper on nice! I just don't want potential warranty issues. Below are the published specs (or known based on certifications) for Pentosin HP2. On paper it's not "as good" as the redline 5w40 euro....but in case you want to run it for warranty you can't go wrong:

ACEA A3/B3B4 
C3 API SM/CF 
VW 502/505/505.01, BMW LL04, Porsche A40, Mercedes 229.51
Saps = <0.8
TBN = >6
Flash = 464*F
Noack = >6, <10
HTHS = >3.5
Viscosity index = 171


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## alexdva (Mar 30, 2016)

Yea, the specs on the Pentosin look about avg. 

About warranty issues I am not too concern, some of the best synthetics oils out there are not approved by VW. If by any reason I have to do a warranty claim powertrain related and they blame the oil I would say that I used (any approved brand) VW 502 approved synthetic oil, I'be impressed if they do UOA and prove that i used redline, oil formulations are pretty much top secret to this big oil companies and vw can't tell which is which. Now, let's say they can prove I used a non approved oil. They still cannot denie my claim until they prove my oil damaged the engine per Magnuss-Moss warranty act. And as my UOA shows, it seems like redline 5w40 euro is doing a good job on the engine. Then again this would be an extreme case which I am pretty sure does not happen that often.

Anyway, on a different note do you know if there's a way to look at the intakes valves without removing the intake. 

Any help on someone else reading the thread would be greatly appreaciated as well.

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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

alexdva said:


> Now, let's say they can prove I used a non approved oil. They still cannot denie my claim until they prove my oil damaged the engine per Magnuss-Moss warranty act. And as my UOA shows, it seems like redline 5w40 euro is doing a good job on the engine. Then again this would be an extreme case which I am pretty sure does not happen that often.


Excellent point.



alexdva said:


> Anyway, on a different note do you know if there's a way to look at the intakes valves without removing the intake.


Buy a cheap snake camera and pull the intake temp sensor.


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## alexdva (Mar 30, 2016)

VR6OOM,

Just to give you an update.. I did as you recommended and bought a snake camera with LED's and found the IAT, but unfortunately temp sensor is to one side of the intake manifold and the snake camera its just a flimsy cable with not much control. Anyways,
I decided to at least look at the runner directly behind IAT. Well, I push that in with the LED's to the max I couldn't find anything that remotely look like an intake valve. I played with it like for half hour, but nothing. I did noticed in one instance that push the camera kind of deep and pulled back that there was carbon on the lens of the camera . The carbon looked really ashy and dry, no oily at all after several times. Then again I don't know if that intake valve was open and I just went inside the piston chamber.

Anyhow, maybe with more light inside the intake manifold or better camera control there's a good chance too see something. There's still no oil consumption from the last time which is good too.


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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

alexdva said:


> VR6OOM,
> 
> Just to give you an update.. I did as you recommended and bought a snake camera with LED's and found the IAT, but unfortunately temp sensor is to one side of the intake manifold and the snake camera its just a flimsy cable with not much control. Anyways,
> I decided to at least look at the runner directly behind IAT. Well, I push that in with the LED's to the max I couldn't find anything that remotely look like an intake valve. I played with it like for half hour, but nothing. I did noticed in one instance that push the camera kind of deep and pulled back that there was carbon on the lens of the camera . The carbon looked really ashy and dry, no oily at all after several times. Then again I don't know if that intake valve was open and I just went inside the piston chamber.
> ...


Good update. I hope you figure out exactly how to look at the intake valves. Maybe post up in the 1.8tsi forum?


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## alexdva (Mar 30, 2016)

I had some sucess a second time around. I've created a post in the ea888 2.0T gen3 thread.

Check out let me know what you think

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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

Link? 

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## alexdva (Mar 30, 2016)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=7849201

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