# Airlift Performance Fronts on MK6 Jetta



## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

Looking for those who have installed the new performance fronts on a MK6 Jetta. Have mine installed and have the notorious "clunking" noise which I've learned relates to the sway bar being over extended. Wondering if anyone has the right piece of information to resolve the clunking (I planned to thread the bodies down a bit more, increasing the length of the shock, to give me more clearance and ride height at a lower PSI). 

I'm looking for information regarding: 



How you installed 

What you adjusted 

Your current dampening setting 

Other useful install notes


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## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

i'm wondering if someone had a set of power grid adjustable endlinks to see if they could mess around with the length of them and see if there is a "sweet spot" 

I recently installed them in an A3 and was having similar clunking at highest ride height setting.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

I'm more so wondering if the clunking noise is the actual strut itself maxing out.... Can't confirm until the end links are off but was just wondering if anyone else given this a try.

I'd like to know about the power grid adj. links are the ticket for this specific application.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

Bump anyone? Just looking for some additional notes from other installs.


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## LeonGtii (Oct 19, 2012)

installed these new struts on TTS, MK6 GTI, GOLF R, CC , PASSAT B6. 
No endlink issue. 

We met a clunking sound if you are driving near your struts Max height. 
Just adjusted threaded body or driving a lower height, clunking sound gone. 

Hope this will help you.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

Well I got a chance to pull and reinstall my fronts - I adjusted the threaded body of the Performance Front air strut so I would have some additional lift (the shipped height didn't do it for me). For those of you that have these, I adjusted enough so you can easily thread the included leader lines without having to line up through a notch in the threaded body locking collar.

In addition to this, I also swapped my FSB end links: passenger side end-link is now on driver side, and driver side is now on passenger side. Both I, and my technician friend agreed it makes way more sense installing this way. ZERO clunking, even with adjusted height and driving almost at full PSI (full lift however).

AND I can still get as low as the factory height setting of the threaded body. Might make another lift adjustment to see how high you can really adjust the bodies without effecting completely aired out height.


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## Rob2.5 (Sep 16, 2009)

Any updates on this?

I seem to be having this issue on my golf as well.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

Rob2.5 said:


> Any updates on this?
> 
> I seem to be having this issue on my golf as well.


Thread your bodies up about an inch and tighten the lock nuts at the top. That solved everything for me.


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## vdubjettaman (Mar 31, 2004)

connoisseurr said:


> Thread your bodies up about an inch and tighten the lock nuts at the top. That solved everything for me.


I will have to investigate this tonight. On my '12 Beetle Turbo the collar is all the way down (how they shipped) and i have the sway bar disconnected because no mater what height or psi i had in the bags, it never seemed to stop clunking with the endlinks. So I took them out and the sway bar is just hanging there.

psi have for driving around in the fronts are 50 and 30 in the rears.

If I go any higher it gets really bouncy and clunks.


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## connoisseurr (Jan 18, 2008)

I also reversed the endlinks. The left and right endlinks didn't look correct after installing them the way they're supposed to be installed, so I swapped the sides. No clunking at all until I push the fronts to max height, and I mean MAX height.


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## fasttt600 (Apr 12, 2007)

vdubjettaman said:


> I will have to investigate this tonight. On my '12 Beetle Turbo the collar is all the way down (how they shipped) and i have the sway bar disconnected because no mater what height or psi i had in the bags, it never seemed to stop clunking with the endlinks. So I took them out and the sway bar is just hanging there.
> 
> psi have for driving around in the fronts are 50 and 30 in the rears.
> 
> If I go any higher it gets really bouncy and clunks.


the clunking you are getting is from over extending the strut. once you increase the gap between the bottom of the bag and the threaded collar, you should be fine.


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## vdubjettaman (Mar 31, 2004)

fasttt600 said:


> the clunking you are getting is from over extending the strut. once you increase the gap between the bottom of the bag and the threaded collar, you should be fine.


I spoke with someone from Airlift at h2oi this weekend and this is what he told me too. I haven't adjusted anything yet, but will be doing it this week! hope for the best!


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## Rob2.5 (Sep 16, 2009)

vdubjettaman said:


> I spoke with someone from Airlift at h2oi this weekend and this is what he told me too. I haven't adjusted anything yet, but will be doing it this week! hope for the best!


There are certainly 2 distinct sounds that happen.

There is a distinct sound when the bag is fully deflated and you hit a bump that is definitely an adjustment on the bag itself.

However there is also a different noise I am experiencing which I'm going to check my end links for as some others tried. I get a grinding/popping sound when I make sharp turns or reverse where I spin the wheel all the way in one direction.

I'm going to try reversing the end links and seeing what happens next.


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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

Rob2.5 said:


> There are certainly 2 distinct sounds that happen.
> 
> There is a distinct sound when the bag is fully deflated and you hit a bump that is definitely an adjustment on the bag itself.
> 
> ...


I think I potentially get something similar. The pop kind of noise when turning, doesn't always seem to happen. Sounds like popping a piece of plastic or something. Hard to describe. 

But I do have a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKJvBmlqmSU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iNfiov4-oY&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## [email protected] (Sep 1, 2012)

Some MK6 platforms will require you to adjust the lower mount to lengthen the overall strut assembly when installing the 75576 performance threaded body front struts. Also keep in mind the suggested driving pressure is only 45PSI on these struts. The clunk that you are experiencing is due to the strut rod reaching max extension and could potentially cause damage to the strut cartridge if adjustments are not made. Due to a broad model, engine, and year fitment with a MKV/MKVI there are some vehicles that will need these adjustments. 

Those of you who are experiencing the clunking, what is the pressure in your front bags when the subframe first makes contact with the ground? If you have anything higher than 10PSI at the first instance that the subframe lays on the ground then you need to extend the strut length to fully utilize the air springs potential.


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## vdubjettaman (Mar 31, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> Some MK6 platforms will require you to adjust the lower mount to lengthen the overall strut assembly when installing the 75576 performance threaded body front struts. Also keep in mind the suggested driving pressure is only 45PSI on these struts. The clunk that you are experiencing is due to the strut rod reaching max extension and could potentially cause damage to the strut cartridge if adjustments are not made. Due to a broad model, engine, and year fitment with a MKV/MKVI there are some vehicles that will need these adjustments.
> 
> Those of you who are experiencing the clunking, what is the pressure in your front bags when the subframe first makes contact with the ground? If you have anything higher than 10PSI at the first instance that the subframe lays on the ground then you need to extend the strut length to fully utilize the air springs potential.


Thanks for the clarification Tom. Unfortunately I do not lay subframe yet since I do not have a frame notch on the passenger side. I'm keeping 20psi in both front bags when I "air out" so the passenger frame does not rest on the axle. Driving around I have 50psi in the front bags and 35psi in the rears. This is on my '12 Beetle Turbo.


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Some MK6 platforms will require you to adjust the lower mount to lengthen the overall strut assembly when installing the 75576 performance threaded body front struts. Also keep in mind the suggested driving pressure is only 45PSI on these struts. The clunk that you are experiencing is due to the strut rod reaching max extension and could potentially cause damage to the strut cartridge if adjustments are not made. Due to a broad model, engine, and year fitment with a MKV/MKVI there are some vehicles that will need these adjustments.
> 
> Those of you who are experiencing the clunking, what is the pressure in your front bags when the subframe first makes contact with the ground? If you have anything higher than 10PSI at the first instance that the subframe lays on the ground then you need to extend the strut length to fully utilize the air springs potential.


I have had a ton of fine tuning I have had to do to my own personal car. The sway bar endlinks like to come loose I have had to re-tighten them down multiple times now. The other issue I have run into mainly because of the amount of camber I have to run due to the extreme nature of my wheel fitment ( 18x8 et 30 and 18x10 et 33 ) is the endlinks clipping the plastic fender liners and pulling them out which also makes a horrific clicking noise. My car is fully down around 5-10psi and the ride is still extremely rough. Hopefully in the next day or so I will be able to really fine tune it and then I can possibly provide you guys with some solid answers as to what will solve your issues.


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

Ok so I spent a good amount of time fine tuning my suspension setup yesterday and this is what I was able to come up with. I found that the ideal height for the lower mount is 2 1/4" from the bottom of the bag to the top of the locking collar. This setup gives me full drop with around 6 psi left in the bags. I have the dampening set at 9 up from soft and my daily driving height is 50 psi. This is still a little bouncy for me but is much better than it was before I adjusted it. Most of the clunking noise is gone I only notice it when going into driveways and when hitting pretty aggressive dips when cruising at freeway speeds.

Hope this helps


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## [email protected] (Sep 1, 2012)

Matt, the softness/bouncy ride you are getting is from the current damping level. We send them out in the middle at 15 clicks from full stiff. Try to set it at 15 and work from there.


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Matt, the softness/bouncy ride you are getting is from the current damping level. We send them out in the middle at 15 clicks from full stiff. Try to set it at 15 and work from there.


Yeah ive had them at 15 and as high up as 23 IM still playing around with the dampening to get the perfect ride for my application


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## Rob2.5 (Sep 16, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Yeah ive had them at 15 and as high up as 23 IM still playing around with the dampening to get the perfect ride for my application


Have you been able to reduce/eliminate that grinding and popping noises or did you not experience these to begin with?


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

Rob2.5 said:


> Have you been able to reduce/eliminate that grinding and popping noises or did you not experience these to begin with?



I had a lot of different noises going on. I had a loud metal on metal sound which started about 2 weeks after install which I isolated to a lose end link nut. It has come lose on me again since and I have it torqued down to about 75 lbs now and havent had any issues since. 

I also had a very loud poping noise that was present when I hit large bumps or was close to maxing out my turning radius and this was isolated to the sway bar endlink tab catching the fender liner so I trimmed the liner to eliminate this noise. 

I still get some noise when going in steep driveways or over large speed bumps which I believe to be from the strut fully extending but that is the only noise I get now.


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## dman736 (Nov 19, 2008)

anyone have pics of the best height for the fronts struts? I believe im maxing out. Gonna try and play with them tomorrow.


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Ok so I spent a good amount of time fine tuning my suspension setup yesterday and this is what I was able to come up with. *I found that the ideal height for the lower mount is 2 1/4" from the bottom of the bag to the top of the locking collar*. This setup gives me full drop with around 6 psi left in the bags. I have the dampening set at 9 up from soft and my daily driving height is 50 psi. This is still a little bouncy for me but is much better than it was before I adjusted it. Most of the clunking noise is gone I only notice it when going into driveways and when hitting pretty aggressive dips when cruising at freeway speeds.
> 
> Hope this helps





dman736 said:


> anyone have pics of the best height for the fronts struts? I believe im maxing out. Gonna try and play with them tomorrow.


if you never adjusted you are


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## dman736 (Nov 19, 2008)

Yeah I never adjusted them


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## dman736 (Nov 19, 2008)

Do I have to take them out of the car again to adjust them ?


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## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

dman736 said:


> Do I have to take them out of the car again to adjust them ?


you will need to take them out to adjust them.

Here's a good look at what exactly needs to be completed:  >>CLICK HERE <<


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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

I didn't remove mine and was able to adjust. Did it on Johnny's car too, although his was a bit more of a pain.


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

dman736 said:


> Do I have to take them out of the car again to adjust them ?





Coderedpl said:


> I didn't remove mine and was able to adjust. Did it on Johnny's car too, although his was a bit more of a pain.


On some kits the bag is really hard to spin I found for my car it was much easier to drop the knuckle and spin them down then to disconnect the air line and try and spin it while still in the spindle


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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> On some kits the bag is really hard to spin I found for my car it was much easier to drop the knuckle and spin them down then to disconnect the air line and try and spin it while still in the spindle


 Funny part is Johnny and I have the same kit lol. 
But it is a good point nonetheless, in which I suggest try spinning them first and see if it works. (make sure to loosen locking collar first) and if it's too hard. Just follow above steps


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## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> On some kits the bag is really hard to spin I found for my car it was much easier to drop the knuckle and spin them down then to disconnect the air line and try and spin it while still in the spindle


that's because you shouldn't be spinning the bag. :what:


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## [email protected] (Sep 21, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> that's because you shouldn't be spinning the bag. :what:


I was meaning the upper portion of the strut by getting it to rotate on the pillow ball, yes if the bag is spinning you can ruin the o rings that seal the bag to the strut body causing them to leak but way to misconstrue what I was trying to say in an effort to sound like you know more than me


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## [email protected] (Aug 22, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> I was meaning the upper portion of the strut by getting it to rotate on the pillow ball, yes if the bag is spinning you can ruin the o rings that seal the bag to the strut body causing them to leak but way to misconstrue what I was trying to say in an effort to sound like you know more than me


I wasn't trying to misconstrue the situation, just clarify that you shouldn't be spinning the bag as it will ruin the o-rings.


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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

*Knock on wood* I haven't had any leaks or issues.


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## vwandbmw218 (Oct 16, 2004)

dman736 said:


> Do I have to take them out of the car again to adjust them ?


You really need to take a look at the end of the install manual. You want the car to stop ""dropping right around 1 psi of bag pressure. As soon as you start pumping air in the car should start rising. You don't need to take the whole bag out to adjust. As Andrew states just undo the bottom and spin it accordingly. It can be time consuming but will be well worth it and ride like a dream afterward.


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## vdubjettaman (Mar 31, 2004)

I have alleviated all the clunking! WOOO! 
I unbolted bottom of the strut, dropped the entire assembly while still having the airlift strut mounted at the top to the shock tower. Loosened the locking collar and spun the bottom of the strut 1/2" from where it was shipped. I'm now at 2" of threads instead of 1.5". Relocked the collar, attached the sway bar endlinks provided with the kit (I was running without the sway bar connected because it was making too many noises - could've been only because of the stut maxing out). Remounted the strut into the assembly, bolted it, torqued it and voila! No more clunking, and still same psi as before. Feels much better with the sway bar connected too.


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## Rob2.5 (Sep 16, 2009)

I'm glad to hear that there seems to be some remedies for these problems. I need to eventually take a look myself. Otherwise I love the performance bags :thumbup:


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## SoSoA3 (Sep 10, 2012)

I'm still getting a clunking noise when I exit driveways at an angle, I'm fairly sure it's the front sway bar hitting the axel because there are marks on the axel. I did the threading of the struts to make more clearance so I don't max out the strut. The space between my bag and the lower strut housing is 2 1/4in, and I also made sure to properly torque down the top strut bolts. When I'm aired up and go over speed bumps and come out of driveways straight there is no clunking but only when I go out at an angle there's a clunking. Oh and when I'm at my ride height preset "2" and go out of the same driveway angled there is no clunk.

I'm not too sure what psi I'm at as I have the elevel management setup. From the elevel calibrations preset "3" is 10% from the max height. Is anyone else getting the clunk when leaving driveways at angles?


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## MAXecutive (Aug 26, 2011)

I know I am bumping a year old thread ... but do you guys have pictures of how low the car sits with these performance series bags. I have the Votex lip kit and would like to avoid notching the frame. Is it possible to install this kit and adjust the strut length to the correct height so I can "air out" and not hit the axle or my front lip? Will setting give me a good ride height if I choose to daily ride at the H&R spring level height?


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## Benlurie (Dec 16, 2020)

connoisseurr said:


> Looking for those who have installed the new performance fronts on a MK6 Jetta. Have mine installed and have the notorious "clunking" noise which I've learned relates to the sway bar being over extended. Wondering if anyone has the right piece of information to resolve the clunking (I planned to thread the bodies down a bit more, increasing the length of the shock, to give me more clearance and ride height at a lower PSI).
> 
> I'm looking for information regarding:
> 
> ...


I had that problem it’s a problem with the top of the bag assembly clanking and won’t spin mine ended up breaking and having to be replaced but I know it will come back


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