# Outer Axle boot DIY



## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

I have a garage to park my car in but it has no opener so I have get out each and every time to open and close the door. Getting out the other day I saw a small spot of grease on the outside of my drivers front wheel. I cranked the wheel fully to the left and with a flash light saw what I suspected I might see....








Well I was on the computer an hour later ordering a boot kit from GAP...
http://www.germanautoparts.com.../34/1
I then waited a few days for it to come in the mail before getting started...
"Made in Germany" pleases me!








What's inside...








I didn't take pictures of it, but obviously the first thing I did was to remove the axle from the car. Even though the Bentley says I need to, it was not necessary for me to disconnect the ball joint to get it out. Just the 6 bolts at the trans and the 30mm axle nut.
Put the axle in the vise...








Cut outer clamp with a good pair of cutters...








And remove...








Slide boot down to expose joint...








Cut the inboard boot clamp...








And remove....








My favorite way to remove the boot....

















Diagram if anybody is interested...








Using a dead blow hammer is best but this is all I had. Hit joint to remove from axle shaft splines....
















Remove plastic "race" and thrust washer...








Use snap ring pliers to remove this...








Tilt cage at various angles to remove balls noting that one hole is bigger than all the others. That is the key to getting the cage out later....








Now clean your balls.....
ONE!









TWO!!









Three???!!!
















Ok bad joke above. Anyway get all six cleaned and inspected....








Then rotate cage all the way to the side and utilizing the largest hole it will come out of the joint housing. Get it nice and clean too...








Now clean out the inside of the joint housing. Inspecting it also. I did find some scoring on 5 out of 6 of the bearing races. Hopefully you can see them in the pics. I suspect these may cause the joint to essentially fail sooner than later. 
















The unscored one...








Now all clean and waiting....








Put 1/2of the supplied grease into the joint housing....
















Put this back in the same way you took it out....








Tilt it around to put each large bearing back in...
















Now put axle back into the vice and slide the new boot on...








Slide on the thrust washer...








And the a new plastic bearing race...








Install the new snap ring that came with the kit...








Put the joint back onto the shaft....
















Tap to get past snap ring and seated...








Slide boot up towards joint...








Put remaining grease into boot...








Slide boot over joint housing, being sure to get seated all the way around...








Put outer clamp around and latch...
























You'll need one of these special band crimping tools to use....

















Now burp!!!








Then the inner clamp. Same process....








































Now reinstall axle. Hopefully my little DIY will help some folks out there. Let me know if I should add or change anything. I took the pictures and wrote this up quick.

One thing that I didn't do but should have. Before removing the cage from the the joint housing you should mark both so that the cage is installed in exactly the same position as it was removed. Robert Bentley say so!!!!
Thanks for watching.








_Modified by DubbinChris at 5:53 PM 1-26-2009_


_Modified by DubbinChris at 5:56 PM 1-26-2009_


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## NARDO (Aug 26, 2005)

Wow, It must have been those magic purple gloves that allowed you to smack the joint off the shaft and be able to catch it when it flew off all at the same time, I need some of those. 
Just kidding, Nice write up, I'm impressed on how quickly you get things done, I'd push it off for week after week and before I know it the shaft is joint is junk, I'm stranded on the side of the road, and now have no choice but to fix it. I'll learn eventually I suppose.
One thing you did forget to mention is that those gloves are a MUST. That CV grease is the absolute worst to clean off!!!


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (NARDO)*

The best part of the magic gloves are that I get to snag boxes of them for free from work. My manager would rather give me free gloves than to come in and touch patients with greasy hands that I couldn't get clean.
I'm a bit of a procrastanator as well, but decided to just get off my butt this time and do it.


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## Banned wagon (Mar 3, 2004)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

wow I have done this only once. then I found i can get a whole rebuilt axle for like 55bux a side.. good job nice pictures.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (Banned wagon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Banned wagon* »_wow I have done this only once. then I found i can get a whole rebuilt axle for like 55bux a side.. good job nice pictures.

In hindsight I prob should have just done that. Where do you get them for $55. Does that include shipping?


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## NARDO (Aug 26, 2005)

Free magic gloves??? Best Job ever!!!
I procrastinate like a MoFo too. I had a rather productive friday though, when thrus night all weather stations were flippin out saying we were going to get 5-10" of snow. we got nothing, and at about 11:00am on friday I realized it felt like it was 50 outside with the sun shining, so I went to my parents house and scrambled to pack up parts before the weather changed. 
I believe I got my axles from autozone, I wanna say they were 45.00 each, no core, but it was over 2 years ago and I had a friend whos brother worked there so I don't think that would be walk in price.
BTW, seems like a lot of grease flew out for such a small hole. How fast you get those puppies spinning?


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (NARDO)*

Dunno really, my speedo is so far off it's not even funny. The can has seen almost 100 a few times that I know of but I'm sure at least 85 for that grease slinging.


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## white9691 (Dec 11, 2007)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*

i am impressed........don't know if i ever do it........ excellant DIY lay out of the job....thanks


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## NARDO (Aug 26, 2005)

You don't have to tell me about the speedo problem. I've got the same crap. mine reads correct at 25mph, at 60mph it reads almost 80mph. So annoying. 
We need to hunt down this dealership thats got a box of NOS speedo heads for the fox just sitting on the back shelf collecting dust....and rob him!!!!
There's got to be one out there somewhere.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (NARDO)*

I've been pondering a solution from the MKII world. But it prob won't work.


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## NARDO (Aug 26, 2005)

Interested in hearing about a possible solution. I was just thinking of saving my money and buying a gps that tells you the speed your travelling. two birds, one stone.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (NARDO)*

I need to sit down with both bentleys and the respective clusters and start to tinker.
I've used the GPS thing a few times in the car as I have a few units for various reasons. This is how I know that 3k on the tach actually equals 70mph


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## NARDO (Aug 26, 2005)

really? I once paced my dad in his chevy pickup and I was at 3k rpm and he was doing 60mph according to his chitty chevy. I've been going by that for months now. oops!
Now I'm scared, I really need an accurate speedo, I can't afford another ticket these days, my insurance agent would prolly kill me too. 
There's a speedo head in the classifieds just posted, nearly a million miles on the odo, but he says the speedo works, he's not sure of the odo though. I asked if its gauranteed accurate, he hasn't responded yet


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (NARDO)*

Ha yeah, my speedo "works" too. The car moves faster and it in turn indicates a higher speed. Although my speedo says so, I doubt my Fox does 120 mph.


_Modified by DubbinChris at 4:00 PM 2-3-2008_


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## tylernt (Dec 24, 2005)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

I procrastinated the CV boots on my Rabbit for about a year. I had some scoring on one side of each groove on the outer race like these did. I put the right joint on the left driveshaft and vice versa, so the damaged areas are only used in Reverse now. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
What's worse is I also bought new tie rods and control arms... took me about two years to get around to installing them. I suck.









_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_I've used the GPS thing a few times in the car as I have a few units for various reasons. This is how I know that 3k on the tach actually equals 70mph
Interesting, my GPS says 75MPH at 3K RPM, but then again, my tach is off a little bit too (according to the emissions tester). What's interesting is on a long trip, the speedo starts out reading 83-ish MPH at 75MPH actual. As time goes by, the speedo reads higher and higher, about 90MPH. Must be heat related is all I can think of. There is a loose heater duct under my dash so everything under there gets pretty hot.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: (tylernt)*

I added this to the FAQS, great write up thanks!


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## BLUE 88 FOX 1.8L (Sep 12, 2005)

*Re: (the brit)*

couldn't have come at a better time! i have to do a boot swap on my new fox in a week or so! awesome!


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## kerensky (Mar 5, 2001)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_In hindsight I prob should have just done that. Where do you get them for $55. Does that include shipping?

Only real problem is that the FLAPS axle CV joint boots are ... well, not the best quality. Good thing they come with lifetime warranty, but is that worth replacing them every year? I'm not real sure myself, although I *am* getting pretty good at the swap.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (the brit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the brit* »_I added this to the FAQS, great write up thanks!

Awesome, I was hoping it would be. That's pretty much the reason I did it.


_Quote, originally posted by *BLUE 88 FOX 1.8L* »_couldn't have come at a better time! i have to do a boot swap on my new fox in a week or so! awesome!

Well I hope it helps. Let me know if you have any trouble, and maybe I can help. Good luck with it.


_Modified by DubbinChris at 12:37 AM 2-4-2008_


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## The_Hamster (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

Good job!
If the boot isn't torn (no dirt inside just a hole) I usually just replace the boot with the axle still in the car. However cleaning the joint is a good thing to do if you have the motivation.
Appears you forgot to put the inner clamp on before the boot?








"Rebuilt" axles are usually total trash. If it's the autozone style axle etc they have weakened joints due to drilling out the hardened surface, and low quality boots. 
Replacing just the boot with a quality GKN (as the OP used) is a far better choice than a poor quality Reman axle IMO. The proper clamp pliers as illustrated are nice to have, but before I got mine I got by for years with just a pair of side cutters and a small hammer to cinch it tight.


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## the brit (Jun 23, 2003)

*Re: (The_Hamster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The_Hamster* »_
"Rebuilt" axles are usually total trash. If it's the autozone style axle etc they have weakened joints due to drilling out the hardened surface, and low quality boots. 

I agree, but good brand axles, such as EMPI for example, can be found for not too much more as well which makes again fuddles the rebuild question.


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## The_Hamster (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: (the brit)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the brit* »_
I agree, but good brand axles, such as EMPI for example, can be found for not too much more as well which makes again fuddles the rebuild question.

The empi's to my understanding are not rebuilds. They are new axles made by somebodyorother, I don't recall which company. I don't think they are Lubro though.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (The_Hamster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The_Hamster* »_
Appears you forgot to put the inner clamp on before the boot?










Ha yeah busted. Good thing they come apart.


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## GreyFox5 (Mar 29, 2006)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

Excellent writeup BTW - and great pics...
Are the tools (crimper) commonly found at the local parts shops?

Heard a story that in Brazil they had a large warehouse full of parts and in the back was all the Fox parts. When the new Fox came online they needed room for parts in the warehouse. So the old Fox parts went to recycling all $7million worth. So all the parts that are left are in the U.S. - I have no idea if this is true or not. 


_Modified by GreyFox5 at 8:41 AM 2-5-2008_


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (GreyFox5)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GreyFox5* »_Excellent writeup BTW - and great pics...
Are the tools (crimper) commonly found at the local parts shops?


Yeah it's a pretty common tool. Domestics even use the same tool.


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## WGC (Dec 23, 2004)

Nice, perfect. 
One question. 
How you do to make pics and work in car? 
all time i try to do this but dont have sucess..


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## adrian8426 (Dec 30, 2007)

This is my afternoon entertainment for today, my boot is broken all the way...


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (WGC)*


_Quote, originally posted by *WGC* »_Nice, perfect. 
One question. 
How you do to make pics and work in car? 
all time i try to do this but dont have sucess..

Very carefully I guess. I keep the camera switched on and laying nearby. Obviously some of the photos are stages in a sense as that's the only way they work.


_Quote, originally posted by *adrian8426* »_This is my afternoon entertainment for today, my boot is broken all the way...

Let us know how it turns out.
This procedure would would work the same in a MKII or III as well in case anybody was wondering.


_Modified by DubbinChris at 2:18 PM 2-9-2008_


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## adrian8426 (Dec 30, 2007)

Okay, so I did this today and it was fairly easy. Just to add as side notes for this DIY:
1. I never took the cv off from the diffy, I just took the spindle bolt, and the two lower control arm bolts and was able to remove the spindle from the hub assembly. I was able to work on the shaft while still on the car and the joint came out pretty easily. 
2.If you have an aftermarket (not OEM) front outer axle joint the holes are all the same size so it takes a little more finesse to reinstall the bearings. 
3. When crimping the clamp be sure that when you finish assembling the shaft, turn it around with the hand to make sure that the notch doesn't hit the knuckle/shock assembly as it happened to mine that it was crimped too tall and while turning it kept hitting and it ended up coming loose, had to just hammer it to the side a little bit. 
Thank you DubbinChris for an excellent DIY, extremely well documented and simple. Made the process a breeze.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (adrian8426)*

Glad things went well and this thread was helpful for you.
It's cool that you didn't have to pull the whole axle, although pulling the control arms bolts sounds like a process. Do you mean you essentially pulled the control arm off or did you separate it at the ball joint? I pulled my whole axle out b/c I had intented on doing the innner boot while I was in there. My inner boot kit didn't come with one of the bands to secure the smaller end to the axle itself. I called GAP to see why and they insisted that it wasn't suppose to come with one. I asked them how the grease was suppose to stay in there? No answer, but they seemed willing to SELL me a clamp or two.








http://www.germanautoparts.com.../33/1
Anyway thanks for contributing to this DIY.


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## The_Hamster (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_Do you mean you essentially pulled the control arm off or did you separate it at the ball joint? 

You can either seperate the balljoint and pull the hub outwards, or undo the control arm bolt(s) and pull that out, whatever you find easier.
On a mk2 for instance undoing the front control arm bolt allows you to rotate it slightly and pull it out quickly.


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## adrian8426 (Dec 30, 2007)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_ Do you mean you essentially pulled the control arm off or did you separate it at the ball joint? 


I just removed the two lower bolts that connect the ball joint plate to the control arm, just mark them since they have adjustability, or you can just remove the balljoint but that takes a little more power to take out, and I am a lazy a$$.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (adrian8426)*

Gotcha guys. I didn't want to mess up the alignment. I've found that even if I mark the ball joint it's hard to get it back to where it was. I was very happy to find out I could pull the whole axle and leave the alignment intact. I could never do that with a MKII


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## The_Hamster (Jul 31, 2000)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_Gotcha guys. I didn't want to mess up the alignment. I've found that even if I mark the ball joint it's hard to get it back to where it was. I was very happy to find out I could pull the whole axle and leave the alignment intact.

I avoid sepearting the balljoint from the control arm, it's not neccessary and does add the risk of alignment problems.


_Quote »_I could never do that with a MKII

It's very easy with a mk2, requires the removal of 1 bolt.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (The_Hamster)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The_Hamster* »_
It's very easy with a mk2, requires the removal of 1 bolt.


Which bolt is that exactly?


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## GreyFox5 (Mar 29, 2006)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

So - not to get OT but if you get an alignment and the steering wheel is not centered how do you resolve this?
Get the alignment re-done? I've pulled the steering wheel off but it won't go to the correct position.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (GreyFox5)*

Take it back and make them redo it for free. Any good alignment shop should have centered the wheel before doing the alignment.

Also IIRC there is a notch on the steering wheel splines do that the wheel only goes back on in exactly one position.


_Modified by DubbinChris at 6:49 PM 2-15-2008_


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## NARDO (Aug 26, 2005)

I've never seen a notch on any of my wheels. I've been way off putting it back on too.


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## Beetleguru (May 15, 2000)

NIce DIY! It's still cheaper and easier to just buy rebuilt axles though. After changing my outer CV I decided that's the best call. I didn't disassemble mine like you did. Supposedly, the ball bearings have to stay in the same groove or this will cause the CV to fail prematurely. I'd suggest marking each slot and bearing with a sharpie.
Oh, and it was a major PIA to get the CV to come off of my axle. I broke my plastic hammer! Had to pull out the big guns.


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## nithantalas83 (Sep 28, 2005)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*

pfl


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (nithantalas83)*


_Quote, originally posted by *nithantalas83* »_pfl


Ummm....what!?


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_
Also IIRC there is a notch on the steering wheel splines do that the wheel only goes back on in exactly one position.

_Modified by DubbinChris at 6:49 PM 2-15-2008_

For the record...I was mistaken on this statement. Found out myself in my own Fox.


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## adgoff21 (Sep 19, 2004)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*

How did you get the bearing assembly back into the housing?
Write now I am screwed and cant reinsert.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*


_Quote, originally posted by *DubbinChris* »_
Tilt cage at various angles to remove balls noting that one hole is bigger than all the others. That is the key to getting the cage out later....









......and also back together. Is that what you're talking about?


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## adgoff21 (Sep 19, 2004)

Yes. but it will not sit in.


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## ULDSKWL (Feb 22, 2005)

*Re: (adgoff21)*

So you are saying...leave the biggest hole for last one to be put back in?


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (ULDSKWL)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ULDSKWL* »_So you are saying...leave the biggest hole for last one to be put back in?

Yes...that big hole allows the inner "race" to be tilted in the last little bit.


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## ULDSKWL (Feb 22, 2005)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

Actually I just pushed the balls in and lined up the outer, and it went right on! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## DubbyDriver (Oct 23, 2003)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (adgoff21)*


_Quote, originally posted by *adgoff21* »_Write now I am screwed and cant reinsert.

That's a mighty problem you've got there.


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## hoooboy (Jul 7, 2006)

*Re: (DubbinChris)*

Good DIY!


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: (hoooboy)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hoooboy* »_Good DIY!

Thanks.


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## fredshsvfox (Jan 23, 2009)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*

Thanks for posting this DIY.
In downloading 27 of the pictures didn't download,
has anyone else had this problem?


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (fredshsvfox)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fredshsvfox* »_Thanks for posting this DIY.
In downloading 27 of the pictures didn't download,
has anyone else had this problem?

Since this is my thread, I'll try to fix the links. I think I moved some pics around in my photobucket file.
Edit: All picture links fixed.
Glad to see this thread is still helpful.



_Modified by DubbinChris at 5:58 PM 1-26-2009_


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## VWFOX407 (May 10, 2007)

*Re: (GreyFox5)*

My personal experience. I pounded the outer joint very hard but it would not give out, before most likely smashing the whole thing apart--decided it could get away with its rebellion. So to put a new boot on the same side, had to remove the opposite (inner joint) along with the boot (once removed lock clip from shaft- the hub came out of the splines with a pull of my bare fingers), then only had to slide a new boot all the way down to the outer cv joint and get right back to reassemble inner joint. I struggled for a little while playing hub cage puzzle so it could get back on the shaft- but finito http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif .


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## FLiGLi84 (Dec 5, 2006)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*

you have IM.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (FLiGLi84)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FLiGLi84* »_you have IM.

Replied


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## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (DubbinChris)*

Here is my "G".
German Auto Parts Ubber alles.

















_Modified by 83mk2scirocco at 10:31 AM 10-23-2009_


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## Sallad (Aug 29, 2004)

*Re: Outer Axle boot DIY (83mk2scirocco)*

Just doing this on my MkIII Jetta. Found it searching. Nice write-up, thanks so much! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Bad.Content (Dec 23, 2008)

So I notice that the pics showed the driver's side right?

Is the passenger side cv joint supposed to sit all the way up to the spacer like in this pic??


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## themagellan (Mar 30, 2007)

I don't know the question to your answer specifically, BUT


There is no "left" and "right" axle, theyre the same part.


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## Bad.Content (Dec 23, 2008)

themagellan said:


> I don't know the question to your answer specifically, BUT
> 
> 
> There is no "left" and "right" axle, theyre the same part.


 my driver side axle is shorter than my passengers.....


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## themagellan (Mar 30, 2007)

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Fox/Drivetrain/8/1

looks like you have wrong axles in it then


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## Bad.Content (Dec 23, 2008)

So you didnt use the ring circled in red? Only the one circled in red?


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## rabbitnothopper (Oct 19, 2009)

just wanted to thank for the helpful pic DIY thread 

that helped me get the outer ones off easily and back together with new grease 

also -- 

one side had a "larger" housing hole and was the more difficult 
the other all holes were the same size....probally made in china right? 

however the one with the larger housing hole had a boot made in china 

i put made in germany parts on it 


ah, 
and my boot kit did not come with a plastic "raceway" which isnt a raceway really since it cant spin and nothing spins on it 
but when you shove it back on and put the splined housing assembly in then it presses down into the concave washer so i guess the plastic piece gives it some centering and leverage 
important when you hammer it back on that it goes all the way past the Circlip which is also why there is a plastic piece... 


either way thanks a lot for the help 

yes -- i own a Rabbit 
consider this: porche and 1990-2000 version Golf also use the same axle design 
its all the same.... 
so when I put the porche parts on my car..... I get 50HP extra 

(tie rods for my car also fit a porche 944)


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## Frank-i-e (Nov 29, 2010)

Thanks for this, helped greatly with my MKIV GTI


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## 01golfgls (Oct 25, 2009)

what did you use to clean the balls, cage, and joint? just a paper towel or use like simple green?


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

shop towels and brakleen worked well for me


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## veeduberlvr (Oct 1, 2009)

hi two questions. where did you get the cv band tool? and where is the best/worst spot to hit the joint when trying to seperate it?


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## Bad.Content (Dec 23, 2008)

veeduberlvr said:


> hi two questions. where did you get the cv band tool? and where is the best/worst spot to hit the joint when trying to seperate it?


 you can get the band tool from Amazon.com
the best place to hit it is the outer lip. It's where the end of the boot goes onto


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## veeduberlvr (Oct 1, 2009)

Bad.Content said:


> you can get the band tool from Amazon.com
> the best place to hit it is the outer lip. It's where the end of the boot goes onto


thanks! I actually picked the tool today, turns out my local auto zone has and amazing selection of tools. also when you removed the axle you said taking out the ball joints was unnecessary. can you go further into detail on how you removed the axle without taking the ball joints out?


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## veeduberlvr (Oct 1, 2009)

that thing about getting the right tool was a joke. turns out it was for hose clamps :sly:. one of the head techs said that he used to use what he called a "tile corner pliers" and said they worked well. hes a bmw tech of 20+ years but ive never seen him touch a boot


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## Bad.Content (Dec 23, 2008)

veeduberlvr said:


> that thing about getting the right tool was a joke. turns out it was for hose clamps :sly:. one of the head techs said that he used to use what he called a "tile corner pliers" and said they worked well. hes a bmw tech of 20+ years but ive never seen him touch a boot


 http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30800-B...REPY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1321625628&sr=8-5


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## veeduberlvr (Oct 1, 2009)

thanks for the link. i was hoping to pick them up in person at a store since though. anyone?


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

your local autozone or other flaps will for sure have the tool. i got mine from oreilly for $20. what a ripoff. just buy reman axles


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## 90quattrocoupe (Feb 7, 2002)

I would not buy a reman axles. If they had to replace one the CVs, outer or inner, you don't know where they came from. Most likely china. If they replaced the boots, they most likely came from china, too.

They are going to rebuild the axles at the cheapest price. And that usually means chinese crap. Buy your own boots, and ask what the country of manufacturer is. Don't buy chinese.

Both Meyle and Bosch, are having stuff made in china. Buyer beware.

Greg W.


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## hfiles2011 (Dec 5, 2011)

i found this  Thank you. pretty similar to the mk4 jetta 2.0 manual drivers side axle


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## BIG DUB (Feb 13, 2001)

:thumbup:


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

JUST what I was looking for.

After I took the CV joint off, I didn't notice which side was facing out. The beveled side or the step side. Then there was the cage.

Thanks a lot.


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## jim_c (Sep 22, 2013)

I would have replaced the CV joint. That galling may come back to haunt you.


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## DubbinChris (Dec 15, 2005)

jim.c said:


> I would have replaced the CV joint. That galling may come back to haunt you.


Did you see the original post date?
The axle lasted for quite a while before I sold the car.


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