# 2011 VW Golf with Intermittent Stalling



## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Hello,

I am trying to troubleshoot an intermittent stalling issue on my wife's 2011 2.5 Golf. I've searched and read a couple threads on here and elsewhere, but have not found anything exactly like our issue. As mentioned, the problem is intermittent and could happen once a week or multiple times. The stalling regularly occurs on cold start up if it does occur. Once it occurred while she was driving at lower speeds. Even when it does not stall on cold start up once she puts the car in gear it sounds like the idle starts to fluctuate a little bit for a couple seconds. I've told her to try and let it idle for a little while before putting the car into gear, however that did not seem to make much difference.

The car has just under 109,000 miles on it and we bought it about 1,000 miles ago. The previous owner had maintenance records and had regular oil changes. He also had the evaporative purge control solenoid replaced, engine vacuum pump, spark plugs, and filters done about 20-30k miles ago. Per a suggestion from a buddy he said to check the intake manifold bolts and they all were loose. I tightened them all down thinking the stalling could be due to an air leak. I'd like to smoke test it to make sure there isn't a leak. There are no codes in the ECM.

I read something online about the throttle body/plate sticking due to carbon build up. I haven't checked that and I do have a new MAP sensor my buddy gave me, but I don't know that the current one is bad or the culprit.

Before I start throwing parts at it, are there any other suggestions or recommendations? I will try and do a smoke test next to confirm there are no vacuum leaks and then check out the throttle body and replace the MAP sensor.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Josh


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## mk3illa (Oct 11, 2007)

Do you have access to VAGCOM/VCDS? The ecu won't tell you everything with most scanners, unfortunately. Also, check all vacuum lines/pcv fittings. They're kind of touchy motors. For example: if the dipstick isn't fully seated, it can cause rough idle. Smoke test will definitely help, but there's still a few things you can check beforehand. 

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

I'll ask my buddy whether he has a VAGCOM/VCDS. He works on VW's and has a pretty hi-end tablet type scanner. He hooked up to it for a short while and recalibrated the throttle body.

I'll double check all the PCV & vacuum lines. We just got done replacing the dipstick as the older dark orange/red one broke. So it now has the newer yellow style dipstick tube & dipstick. I did read about the dipstick not sealing as a possible cause for idle issues so I wanted to get the new one installed before proceeding with troubleshooting.

Do you think it would be a benefit to reset the ECU in the event it has bad/funky learned data?

Thanks
Josh


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## mk3illa (Oct 11, 2007)

As long as he has vw software license for his scanner, it should register as a factory diag tool, giving full access.

Possibly. You know the trick to discharge the ecu (remove both terminals from the battery, let them touch and complete the circuit)? My 11 is flash tuned with supporting mods, but I've had one issue with the oem ecu prior to modifications. The immobilizer saw something it didn't like. I touched terminals off the battery and zip tied them, set a timer for 30 min, and it seemed to do the trick. 

Just as an extra check, see if the charging system is putting out enough power. I think the canbus runs most components on<5V, and inadequate output can freak the ecu out.

Hope this helps

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Thanks again for the feedback! I'm going to try and take a look at the car again this week. I'll report back what I find.

Josh


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Legacy777 said:


> Thanks again for the feedback! I'm going to try and take a look at the car again this week. I'll report back what I find.
> 
> Josh


Do you have any updates? It seems the engine has vacuum leak. Considering the mileage, I'd first replace all gaskets for intake manifold, throttle body, valve cover. Check air and vacuum pipes for cracks. Check PCV diaphragm if it is in good order with no signs of tear.


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Do you have any updates? It seems the engine has vacuum leak. Considering the mileage, I'd first replace all gaskets for intake manifold, throttle body, valve cover. Check air and vacuum pipes for cracks. Check PCV diaphragm if it is in good order with no signs of tear.


Hi Ronny,

Unfortunately, no I don't have any updates and there's nothing that comes up in the scanner. I agree it seems like a vacuum leak, but haven't had any success in finding one. I'll try and check out those items you suggest.

Thanks!
Josh


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

I know I'm resurrecting this old thread, but wanted to provide an update. The car threw a code P0455 (EVAP System Leak Detected "Large Leak"). I am assuming this is the likely culprit for the intermittent stalling, but would need to confirm once I get the evap leak fixed.

Regarding the leak, I've checked the canister purge solenoid and it's good and looks to have been replaced previously. The line to the tank won't hold any vacuum or pressure. I've tried to rudimentary check the gas cap by sealing the filler with tape. The leak was still present. I'm likely going to try and buy one of those paint can smoke machines to help find the leak as right now I'm not really able to find anything and don't have any diagrams showing where the various piping connection points are.

If anyone has any other suggestions or past experiences with this code that would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Josh


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Legacy777 said:


> I know I'm resurrecting this old thread, but wanted to provide an update. The car threw a code P0455 (EVAP System Leak Detected "Large Leak"). I am assuming this is the likely culprit for the intermittent stalling, but would need to confirm once I get the evap leak fixed.
> 
> Regarding the leak, I've checked the canister purge solenoid and it's good and looks to have been replaced previously. The line to the tank won't hold any vacuum or pressure. I've tried to rudimentary check the gas cap by sealing the filler with tape. The leak was still present. I'm likely going to try and buy one of those paint can smoke machines to help find the leak as right now I'm not really able to find anything and don't have any diagrams showing where the various piping connection points are.
> 
> ...


Most likely the gas cap is the culprit. Check it online, it shouldn't be expensive. Or post the part number on the cap. I can look up the price for you.

*Jetta 2.5l* Fuel Cap Seal - 1K0-201-557-A costs $7.65 online


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Most likely the gas cap is the culprit. Check it online, it shouldn't be expensive. Or post the part number on the cap. I can look up the price for you.
> 
> *Jetta 2.5l* Fuel Cap Seal - 1K0-201-557-A costs $7.65 online



Will putting tape over the filler nozzle not suffice as a quick and dirty check? I hate just throwing parts at a problem without knowing it's the cause...even if it's not very expensive.

Thanks


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Legacy777 said:


> Will putting tape over the filler nozzle not suffice as a quick and dirty check? I hate just throwing parts at a problem without knowing it's the cause...even if it's not very expensive.
> 
> Thanks


Not recommending it cause there is a risk a piece of tape could fall inside. To make sure you have to check the seal visually. VCDS won't help .


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Not recommending it cause there is a risk a piece of tape could fall inside. To make sure you have to check the seal visually. VCDS won't help .



Ok, thanks Ronny! I appreciate the help!


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Not recommending it cause there is a risk a piece of tape could fall inside. To make sure you have to check the seal visually. VCDS won't help .



The seal looks ok. I'm going to wait for the smoke machine before I do anything more.

Out of curiosity, where do you recommend ordering parts? I have ordered from https://www.vwdirectautoparts.com before and they have good prices, but shipping is more than the gasket. Granted....even with shipping it's less than the local stealership.

Thanks
Josh


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## Legacy777 (Apr 16, 2019)

Ronny Bensys said:


> Most likely the gas cap is the culprit. Check it online, it shouldn't be expensive. Or post the part number on the cap. I can look up the price for you.
> 
> *Jetta 2.5l* Fuel Cap Seal - 1K0-201-557-A costs $7.65 online



Hi Ronny,

I finally got my smoke machine and did some testing. Sure enough smoke was coming out around the gas cap. There appears to be the seal that you provided the part number, but I was also curious....there appears to be another seal at the top of the gas cap. Is the seal you linked to the only one that needs to be replaced?

Thanks!
Josh


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## Ronny Bensys (Apr 17, 2014)

Legacy777 said:


> Is the seal you linked to the only one that needs to be replaced?
> 
> Thanks!
> Josh


Not sure. The other one must be integrated to the cap. This is the only one available online for 11 Jetta 2.5.


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