# Going nuts trying to bleed all of the air out of my system.



## thegimpster (Feb 26, 2007)

mk2 jetta, 4 wheel disc. all new calipers. new 22mm master cylinder. one new brake line. 

I have been trying to blead all of the air out of the system after replacing all of these parts. I have used a vacuum bleeder to try to suck the air out of the system. I have had my girlfriend pump the pedal untill it is firm then try to bleed each caliper in order from closest to the master cyl to furthest. I have driven the car then tried to bleed it again. I have probably blead the system 15 times or so and gone throug over a half gallon of brake fluid. Any advise on what im doing wrong would be greatly appreciated. I made a pressure bleeder last night and am going to try using that when i get home and see if i get any better results.


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## Elwood (Aug 10, 2001)

Unless the manual specifically states otherwise, you should bleed longest to shortest, however, I don't think that's your problem. I'm guessing your new MC is the problem. You may have to bleed it on the bench and then install it (careful not to let any air in).


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## blackvento36 (Mar 17, 2003)

You are using one of those hand pump vacuum bleeders that attaches to the bleeders screws (mightyvac)? They tend to suck air in through the threads of the bleeder screw. If you're gonna use that sometimes you have to take the bleeder screw out and wrap it with teflon tape.


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## Little Golf Mklll (Nov 27, 2007)

thegimpster said:


> I have had my girlfriend pump the pedal untill it is firm.


 Try one pump, then bleed. Continuous pumping to get the pedal firm can sometimes stir up the air bubbles, making it harder to bleed. Also are you bleeding the rears with the suspension loaded? The prop valve will make it harder to bleed unloaded


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## thegimpster (Feb 26, 2007)

i had my girlfriend sit in the back and bounce around a few times when trying to bleed the rears a fewtimes thinking that might help with the prop valve. i noticed the bleeders sucked in a little air when using the vacuum pump. i guess i'll try the teflon tape too. going to try working on it a gain tonight.


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## Bryan127 (Oct 29, 2004)

Who makes the bleeder that pumps fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder? They work well and we had no problems with air pockets in the lines.


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## thegimpster (Feb 26, 2007)

i took the m/c out and reblead it again just to be sure. got a little air out but not a whole lot. put it back on and blead the system again. little better but not much. i guess i'll drive it around for a bit and then try to bleed it in a few days. 

i made a pressurized bleeder from a sprayer and a m/c lid and also used it to pump fluid up through the bleeders. it works pretty good. but im still having the problems.


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## cuppie (May 4, 2005)

Wait - which way is that home-made pressure bleeder feeding? 
Your post reads both ways - you say that it attaches to the master cylinder (like a pressure bleeder will), and then says that it pumps fluid "up thru the bleeders" (as in, it's a 'bottom-feed' bleeder - fluid moves from bleed screw to reservoir.) 

Assuming it's a top-down bleeder: 
Bleed it again. Don't be afraid of using 'too much pressure' - the reservior will easily handle 20psi on it. Really. 
As others said, if the rear prop valve is at full drop, you will NOT be able to bleed the brakes. 
You need to either remove the link and lift it, or (my usual quick trick on these) jack the left trailing arm up to roughly normal ride height (if not a little higher.) 
Helpful trick: pump the brake while you're pressure bleeding it. This greatly increases the flow rate thru the lines, and helps to get the air out of the system. 
In detail: 
with pressure bleeder attached, open right-rear bleed screw; allow flow to start. Smoothly and evenly _fully depress_ the brake pedal 5 times, *with the bleed screw still open*. (Yes, you read that right.  ) Don't stab at it - just smoothly stroke the brake. 
After you're done with the pedal action, allow fluid to flow for another 5-10 seconds, until you see no more air. 
Repeat at each wheel, in order (RR, LR, RF, LF.) 
Depressurize and remove bleeder. Correct fluid level. Profit!


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## thegimpster (Feb 26, 2007)

it reads both ways, because i have done it both ways. Pressureized the master cylinder with fluid and then blead out through the bleeder screws. I have also pumped fluid into the bleeder screws up to the master cylinder. one time i pressureized the m/c and then used my vacuum pump to stuck fluid out of the bleeders. I hooked my vaccume tool up to the m/c and pumped fluid into the bleeders. I've tried it about every whay i can think of so far.


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## machschnell (Mar 21, 2000)

You mentioned all new calipers... could be some air trapped in there as well. I've used my Motive bleeder to connect directly to the caliper "line in" and then pressurize it, and bleed it via the bleed screw. You may need to get creative with making that connection with the motive bleeder... I've found a good bit of air trapped in there. Tap on the caliper with a hammer as you do this to free up some bubbles. 

As far as the MC goes, they def. need to be bled, and you don't *need* to do it on a bench if it's already installed. But if you want to be sure you've got all the air out, start there, tap it like with the calipers, then cap off the ports while you work on bleeding out the lines and the calipers as I mentioned.


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