# Bierce IV's Thread.



## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Ok so long story short im finally leaving static for bags, But before i order everything i want to make sure i have everything and i have a few questions. 
But first here's some test fits of the wheels: 
 
DSC_0440 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 

 
DSC_0422 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 

 
DSC_0420 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 

 
DSC_0434 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 

Here is the order list: I would like to go with the V2 kit from bagriders. 
 
IMG_0759 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 

Now on to the questions: 
Will the ecs wheel centering plates work with bags? And this will be my daily driver, should i stay with the single 444c? Or should i get dual. And should i bother with a trap? I have read that some leak more than actually collecting water. And what else should i get while buying everything? I just want to be sure of everything so i can order ASAP, and do it all right the first time. Oh and the names DJ. Thanks


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

you should deff get a water trap.and i daily drive my mk4 and i have 444 single compressor and it does fine


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

this one should work fine correct? And would air line size would be best? 
http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/PARKER-LOW-PSI-WATER-TRAP.html


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

Bierce IV said:


> this one should work fine correct? And would air line size would be best?
> http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/PARKER-LOW-PSI-WATER-TRAP.html


 i have the neumatics water trap and it works just fine for me. i cant say about the parker or avs traps but my friend has the smc and i like mine better. 

and i have 1/4 its not fast and its not slow. but you can always go with bigger lines and get flow control


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## GreasySideDown (Mar 4, 2011)

I have a small bit of experience to share with water traps. I don't have any in my system and last night I had to pull the tank out (subwoofer died, tank is attached to sub enclosure). I got about 1/2 pint of water out of the tank. I've been on a roadtrip the past couple weeks and have laid down over 4000 miles. My trunk is full of crap so I didn't drain it like usual. Not very much water but I think I'll be looking for a place to put a water trap now. Like everything in this world (the VW world that is..), you learn as you go. I have an automatic water trap on my plasma cutter back home, I wonder if that'll work..


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## bryangb (Jun 16, 2010)

Bierce IV said:


> this one should work fine correct? And would air line size would be best?
> http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/PARKER-LOW-PSI-WATER-TRAP.html


 That one will work fine and the compressors leader line will thread directly into it (granted you plan on running the trap between the compressor and tank) :beer: 

I'd reccommend 3/8" lines. I think the v2 with 3/8" lines achieves the perfect air up/down speed :beer: 

If you go with 1/4" lines and it ends up being too slow.. You are stuck having to run new lines. If you go bigger and it's too quick for you you could always just add flow controls.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

thanks for the advise guys, and ill just run the bigger lines in the first place, id rather do it right the first time around. Starting to work on the trunk layout. I will post picts with updates. Wait till you see my theme


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

What do you guys think? i like the wheels i rebuilt, but there is suck a gap, and i dont want to have to pull my fenders THAT much to make it sit between the lip. 

Heres the specs: 
17x9.5 all around 
56mm offset 
33mm adapter rear, 38mm rear


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## AndrewDaniels (Jul 2, 2011)

Oh sh**, it's about get hot up in hurr :thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

haha, what do you guys think? Try it with current RS's, or trade for futuras and $$


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

sorry for the delays guys. Got extremely busy but im ready to order the kit. But im still stuck between analog and the v2. I would like to take advantage of the sale, but which would you guys say for a DD.


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## justmalpica (Apr 13, 2008)

go v2 if you have the $.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

well right now with the sale the analog actually cost more with everything lol


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## Miotke (May 16, 2010)

justmalpica said:


> go v2 if you have the $.


 This.


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

justmalpica said:


> go v2 if you have the $.


 If you have the money go e level. I have v2 and wish I would have gotten e-level


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## furr (Jul 3, 2009)

will be watching :thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Let the prep begin. 
 
IMG_0816 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 
:beer:


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## MarkiVman (Jul 7, 2008)

tmg1991 said:


> If you have the money go e level. I have v2 and wish I would have gotten e-level


 I don't understand why you wish you went e-level. I have v2 and its great. E level is a hassle from what I hear.


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

MarkiVman said:


> I don't understand why you wish you went e-level. I have v2 and its great. E level is a hassle from what I hear.


 i like v2. but elevel is just way nice. its not pressure based its height based. so so you have a friend get it. it automatically adjust to the preset height. with v2 itll adjust but it will not be the same height you had it before your friend got in. 

to me it just seems way worth the extra cash to get it. IMO


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Why not lol. 
 
IMG_0828 by Bierce IV, on Flickr 


Still deciding on trunk setup, i think i want to keep the spare (soon to be another RS)


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

Bierce IV said:


> Why not lol.
> 
> IMG_0828 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
> 
> ...


 :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Hey any way if could use to power wires from the sub that i used to have? Just swap out the fuse?


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

trunk setup and false floor is about done, i will take pictures when its cleaned. Also, new ideas for the exterior, time to get creative once again and stop following the "vortex image" eace:


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Bierce IV said:


> Hey any way if could use to power wires from the sub that i used to have? Just swap out the fuse?


Just run a separate power line, cause its just easier and I would rather have separate fuses for the amps and compressors so that if one blows you can figure out which one is messed up.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

gotcha, and i meant that i just have the amp wires, i disconnected the sub so the wires are just chilling there. Found out there 8 gauge so its a no go anyays


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

> Will the ecs wheel centering plates work with bags?


These are more for static cars.... go with IDF Drop Plates :thumbup:


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

Markg813 said:


> These are more for static cars.... go with IDF Drop Plates :thumbup:


What mark said. And plus the ecs ones look super sketch compared to the idf drop plates


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## vjg1215 (Mar 23, 2009)

tmg1991 said:


> What mark said. And plus the ecs ones look super sketch compared to the idf drop plates


What Trevor said.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Yeah I was looking at those, but quick question. Does it matter of both compressors are hooked unto the same side of the tank, or do they have to be on the opposite? Im trying to get the false floor done today


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

Bierce IV said:


> Yeah I was looking at those, but quick question. Does it matter of both compressors are hooked unto the same side of the tank, or do they have to be on the opposite? Im trying to get the false floor done today


it doesnt matter. but i feel like it wouldnt fill up as fast as it should going through one line into the tank


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

no im running 2 lines and watertraps, i meant like as in if both lines ran into the ports next to eachother on the left side of the tank instead of both ends


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Just a rough idea i worked on, still gotta add some more wood. haha

IMG_0841 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

Bierce IV said:


> no im running 2 lines and watertraps, i meant like as in if both lines ran into the ports next to eachother on the left side of the tank instead of both ends


Oh yeah that's fine!


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Long story short, got it all in, Still couldnt get the damn strut seated in the knuckle. Drove off a 4x6 nothing moved, so i backed it up and the strut spun and this happened.


IMG_0867 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

Whose got ideas to get those in WITHOUT grinding the protective coating out.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Sorry can't quite tell what happened, did your tire peel off your rim?

And you put the car down with the strut halfway in the spindle?? If so you are crazy/stupid, sorry to say. The weight of the car will cause the strut to bind and will actually prevent it from sliding down into the spindle.

My suggestion still stands, 3/4" COLD chisel pounded in 90% of the way, lube, jack under car

Cold chisel:


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

I basically got a screw driver that was close to 7mm across the bit, then got some spare change and put a nickel between gap and the screw driver and held it in place as best as possible while turning the screw driver. The lower in the spindle you can get it then the more it should open. 

Then I used more lube than a porn set on the strut.

I got it as deep as possible then got frustrated when it hung up and grabbed the brake disk and shook the jesus out of it and it started to slowly slip in more. Fast forward to more semi-violent shaking and it was fully seated.

None of that is really the proper way, but hell it worked.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Pulled the fronts back out to notice the powdercoat peeled off but i said F it. used the 3/4" cold chisel and they slid right in. I got the wheels where i want. And i will have pictures up soon after i buff it at work. Thanks for all the help guys. But, only run compressor is hooked up right now and i really want that second. do i have to run another power wire up?


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

I had to do the same thing. I even grounded the powder coat off cause I couldnt get it in. So when i got it in. Just sprayed a crap load of primer over it so hopefully it'll protect it. And it took me like 4 hours to get the drive side in lol. It was awful. Glad you got it worked out.


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

Bierce IV said:


> Pulled the fronts back out to notice the powdercoat peeled off but i said F it. used the 3/4" cold chisel and they slid right in. I got the wheels where i want. And i will have pictures up soon after i buff it at work. Thanks for all the help guys. But, only run compressor is hooked up right now and i really want that second. do i have to run another power wire up?


For your compressors you only use one power wire. On bagriders website under tech they have a really good diagram. I would post it bu im on my phone.


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

I used a flap wheel to take off a couple inches of paint of the bottom of the struts for an easier install, then i spread some anti seize around the areas i took the paint off the struts so it doesn't seize up.

You should definately invest in a strut spreader tool. My struts dropped right in without any problems using it!


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## tmg1991 (Jan 20, 2011)

Markg813 said:


> I used a flap wheel to take off a couple inches of paint of the bottom of the struts for an easier install, then i spread some anti seize around the areas i took the paint off the struts so it doesn't seize up.
> 
> You should definately invest in a strut spreader tool. My struts dropped right in without any problems using it!


You took off a couple inches of paint? Lol. You also left by myself to do the driver side


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

sway bar still in, no notch and the fenders are getting in the way. But heres some iphone shots. Legit shots coming soon.
If you ask me the fitment is x100000 better than the static from the prev page.
Yes the first shot is with the rear up in the air, i hope this will be the end result when i get the notch. (with new buumper and lip i have of course.)

IMG_0870 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


IMG_0877 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


IMG_0875 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


IMG_0874 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

*before you say it, i know. It needs more low and new headlights.*


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

said tire

IMG_0868 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

how the balls did the tire do that?


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

long story short, strut spun and the prong that holds the lines ripped a circle in the tire. At least the explosion wasnt an airline or bag


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## DGK_KGD (Nov 11, 2010)

Bierce IV said:


> long story short, strut spun and the prong that holds the lines ripped a circle in the tire. At least the explosion wasnt an airline or bag


crazy !

looks great btw!:beer::beer:

9 more days till i install mine! the Alaska build


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

DGK_KGD said:


> crazy !
> 
> looks great btw!:beer::beer:
> 
> 9 more days till i install mine! the Alaska build


actually, may be moving there one day for geology. :thumbup:
But whats your guys secrets for quiting down the compressors? I was thinking or wraping the **** outta the floor in that (i forgot the name of dampening stuff but i know what it is) stuff.


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## DGK_KGD (Nov 11, 2010)

Bierce IV said:


> actually, may be moving there one day for geology. :thumbup:
> But whats your guys secrets for quiting down the compressors? I was thinking or wraping the **** outta the floor in that (i forgot the name of dampening stuff but i know what it is) stuff.


I will be moving out of here in T minus 2 2/3 years  As far as the quieting the compressors i would say line your floor in this http://www.dynamatstore.com/, then again i do not know what they actually sound like  I have to stare at them for another 9 days till the install


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

from everything that I've heard, its more in the mounting of the compressor than the dampening on the panels around it.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Niagara_V_Dub said:


> from everything that I've heard, its more in the mounting of the compressor than the dampening on the panels around it.


Actual a combination of the two plus 1!

1 - I built a vibration isolating frame to limit the vibrations that are transferred from the compressors to the sheet metal. 
2 - Dynamat (or similar stuff like b-quiet ultimate, 1/3 the price) for absorbing any vibrations that actually do get transferred to the sheet metal. Sheet metal has the tenancy to make a horrible racket when it vibrates at high frequencies so limit is as much as possible to get the least airborne sound possible
3 - Now you need to control the airborne sound waves that come from the sheet metal and compressors themselves. Use a closed cell foam and lead vinyl matt combination for best results, can be found at b-quiet.com as well.

Plans:









Isolation frame and rubber dampers:









Vibration damper:

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Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Airborne sound dampener beneath the rear deck:









Airborne sound dampener on the bottom of the false floor:










Finished product:

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


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## kilimats (Mar 5, 2006)

^ yes indeed, did that and the paint thanked me for it


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## arethirdytwo (Apr 4, 2007)

The chisel and a little grease lets it slide right in. Really get that knuckle open.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

hooking up the other compressor tonight. Question, what should i have my max air at for my 5 gallon tank. i have dual 440's and 3/8 lines. i have min at 110 right now at max at 150 and it seems like its always kicking on.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

leaks?

If you fill the tank does the psi drop over time?


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Niagara_V_Dub said:


> leaks?
> 
> If you fill the tank does the psi drop over time?


actually just coming to post some "issues"
the tank does drop to 142 psi from 150psi in like 5 mins then it very slowy drops over night to like 30. I think that leak is somewhere near the watertrap. And my left front will drop a few psi slowly so i have to check there. But i cant get the fitting to tighten anymore.

Ok also here is my daily height.
47psi LF 38psi RF 40 psi LR 40 psi RR.
Why is it different in the front to make it even? (wear on mounts?) and the rears need ot be adjusted to even out as well..


And lastly, why the hell is it so damn bouncy? (first time on air) It was worse than my vmaxx coils. even with a full tank. I still have the vmaxx shocks which i guess could be it because the bags are shorter than the springs. Or perhaps the desperate need of an alignment that im getting tomorrow.



Wow thats alot, sorry new to air:beer:


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## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

possibly your bump stops are still in on the back?, when driving low probably just sitting on them, makes ride very bouncy.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Yeah i would check bumpstops in the back. As for the tank leaking 8psi in 5 minutes, you have a major leak. That is what is turning your compressors on so often. Get it fixed asap so you don't have to wait for the tank to fill up in the mornings before you can even lift your car to start your drive :thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> Yeah i would check bumpstops in the back. As for the tank leaking 8psi in 5 minutes, you have a major leak. That is what is turning your compressors on so often. Get it fixed asap so you don't have to wait for the tank to fill up in the mornings before you can even lift your car to start your drive :thumbup:


 I will when I get home. Is it normal for the bags to fluctuate when driving? For example the rear will go from 40-42 and back done and keep doing it.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

MechEngg said:


> Yeah i would check bumpstops in the back. As for the tank leaking 8psi in 5 minutes, you have a major leak. That is what is turning your compressors on so often. Get it fixed asap so you don't have to wait for the tank to fill up in the mornings before you can even lift your car to start your drive :thumbup:


Meh, that is my current life. I leak from 145 to 65 psi overnight. Gonna go nutty with leak detector spray this weekend.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Niagara_V_Dub said:


> Meh, that is my current life. I leak from 145 to 65 psi overnight. Gonna go nutty with leak detector spray this weekend.


Yeah. I have zero leaks in all of my lines and it is glorious. 

*MechEngg's lesson of the day*

As long as there isn't a huge temperature difference it is usually very close to the pressure the day before. Temp increase = pressure increase. 

P1/T1 = P2/T2

temp is in kelvin, pressure doesn't matter.

say you had your tank at 150psi and it was 20C out
P1/T1 = 150psi/293k
The next morning it is colder, say 10C outside. What will the pressure in the tank be? 
P2 = T2 * P1/T1 = 283* (150/293) = 145psi 


Now a lesson on why pressure relief valves (safety valves) are useful. In the morning on the way to work your compressor kicks on because you are screwing around with it. A brisk summer morning at 2C (happens here in canada eh). You have your tank set to 200psi like i do. You park your car out in the sun all day and inside the car reaches 60C (easily done in the sun). How much pressure would be in your tank?
Answer: 242psi. That is quite a bit over the rated pressure of the aluminum tank you happen to have (150psi working pressure rating). So having a safety valve of 205psi will save your life/trunk setup in this case if your tank were to explode :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Got the car back after the allignment. I got 1.5 degrees of camber in front right that's it. Which I didn't have in coils and the tires are loud as hell. Time for new wheels.


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

tmg1991 said:


> You took off a couple inches of paint? Lol. You also left by myself to do the driver side


Yeah, i though you were there when i was doing mine? My struts went in with no problem!


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> Yeah. I have zero leaks in all of my lines and it is glorious.
> 
> *MechEngg's lesson of the day*
> 
> ...


 Any way I could go over 150 psi with my tank once I hook up the other compressor?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Bierce IV said:


> Any way I could go over 150 psi with my tank once I hook up the other compressor?


You can go over 150psi with just one compressor


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## blue bags (Jul 1, 2009)

yup 200psi is max working pressure on a 444 iirc. 400s are 150


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

well then lol.. And got some picture they will be up shortly:thumbup:


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

well, pictures wont be done for a while soooo.. Everyone's favorite! Driveway shots with a potato! (I'm not a photographer)


DSC_0571 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


DSC_0569 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

rear, (need new adapters)

DSC_0569 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


2 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


DSC_0557 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


DSC_0558 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

front

DSC_0559 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


1 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Looking good, not a huge fan of uber poke in the rear but it looks good. 

And where in NY are you from?


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Niagara_V_Dub said:


> Looking good, not a huge fan of uber poke in the rear but it looks good.
> 
> And where in NY are you from?


rochester, was thinking of moving out to buffalo soon. and im waiting for smaller adapters in the rear.:thumbup:


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Bierce IV said:


> rochester, was thinking of moving out to buffalo soon. and im waiting for smaller adapters in the rear.:thumbup:


I am thinking of running some spacers in the rear too. And Rochacha is pretty close and Buffalo SUCKS! Nothing here honestly. Can't wait to move back west in a few months.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

went on a leak check today and theres a ****ing rip in the rear bag which explains some things.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Bierce IV said:


> went on a leak check today and theres a ****ing rip in the rear bag which explains some things.


Pics of rip! Any sort of puncture will have your valves filling every few minutes, i hope you have e-level so you don't need to do this manually. Until you get a new bag that is


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> Pics of rip! Any sort of puncture will have your valves filling every few minutes, i hope you have e-level so you don't need to do this manually. Until you get a new bag that is


nope, got the v2. And also the fronts are a little leaky, and i cant fit the wrench in there. Is there any way to do it without dropping out the strut? And it leaks faster than i can fill. So,, ill be contacting them tomorrow.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Bierce IV said:


> nope, got the v2. And also the fronts are a little leaky, and i cant fit the wrench in there. Is there any way to do it without dropping out the strut? And it leaks faster than i can fill. So,, ill be contacting them tomorrow.


Try spaying some soapy water onto the fitting coming from the bottom and then the fitting at the end of the leader line. Hopefully its the end of the leader line thats easier to get to. Also check for leaks at the beginning of the line, it could be there. You could have just not cut the line evenly.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Niagara_V_Dub said:


> Try spaying some soapy water onto the fitting coming from the bottom and then the fitting at the end of the leader line. Hopefully its the end of the leader line thats easier to get to. Also check for leaks at the beginning of the line, it could be there. You could have just not cut the line evenly.


i can see that the fitting wasnt securly tightened all the way, or there wasnt enough Teflon tape. The problem is i cant fit the wrench in with the strut to tighten or loosen it.


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

Bierce IV said:


> i can see that the fitting wasnt securly tightened all the way, or there wasnt enough Teflon tape. The problem is i cant fit the wrench in with the strut to tighten or loosen it.



I had leaks in both my front bags and almost every tank fitting :banghead: Believe it or not, the way you thread on the teflon tape could of been the problem. You need to wrap it clockwise (i.e. in the same direction as the tightening action of the nut). The way i fixed my fronts were just unbolting the 3 top strut bolts and dropping the strut down a little so i could get to the leader line. You might as well just unscrew the leader line from the bag and start over. Before you do this, fill up the bags and spray the fitting with soapy water. Check the leader line to the bag and check the connection from leader line to air line.


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## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

stop using teflon tape, i started using paste on all of my installs few years ago and have zero leaks usually.
also take time ,dont throw sheeet together and think you gonna redo it later . that "later" usually doesn't happen ever.
take your time, cut the line straight ,push it all the way into the fitting.
specially with numatics dot fittings.


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## Rat4Life (Oct 14, 2004)

MechEngg said:


> Yeah. I have zero leaks in all of my lines and it is glorious.
> 
> *MechEngg's lesson of the day*
> 
> ...


200 psi rated tanks are tested to hold up to 600 psi, so really no need for pressure relief valve.
250psi in the tank will not make it rapture,however cheap chrome plated Chinese made tanks have been know to blow up,so if you got one of those get the valve and dont run more than 150 psi in it.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Markg813 said:


> I had leaks in both my front bags and almost every tank fitting :banghead: Believe it or not, the way you thread on the teflon tape could of been the problem. You need to wrap it clockwise (i.e. in the same direction as the tightening action of the nut). The way i fixed my fronts were just unbolting the 3 top strut bolts and dropping the strut down a little so i could get to the leader line. You might as well just unscrew the leader line from the bag and start over. Before you do this, fill up the bags and spray the fitting with soapy water. Check the leader line to the bag and check the connection from leader line to air line.


may do this so i dont have to drop it out of the knuckle again, cause that was sooo much fun. but that rear bag tear really ticked me off.. Its right under that medal clamp on the sleeve.


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

I couldn't help you with you're rear bag issue because i have Firestone bags but good luck resolving you're issues. Air is such a pain in the asss until you get everything all situated. My biggest problem i had was that i burned a hole in my line to the front right bag.. (rubbed against turbo downpipe)


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

yeah hopefully they send me another one, its only been a week


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

got all the leaks fixed, and the rear bags replaced. :heart: it now. still waiting to figure out how to wire up the second compressor, got the relay and stuff i need now.


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

Bierce IV said:


> got all the leaks fixed, and the rear bags replaced. :heart: it now. still waiting to figure out how to wire up the second compressor, got the relay and stuff i need now.


 Two compressors with autopilot v2? Tell me how!


Also, I heard you need a 120amp alternator to run two compressors. Do our cars already have that? No sure.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Markg813 said:


> Two compressors with autopilot v2? Tell me how!
> 
> 
> Also, I heard you need a 120amp alternator to run two compressors. Do our cars already have that? No sure.


 ill let you know when i get to it. I was directed to another wiring diagram however. havent had time to really sit and figure it out 
http://www.airsociety.net/forums/showthread.php/757-Autopilot-dual-compressor-issue


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Markg813 said:


> Two compressors with autopilot v2? Tell me how!
> 
> 
> Also, I heard you need a 120amp alternator to run two compressors. Do our cars already have that? No sure.


 Just jumper the first relay to the second. 

And depends on the compressors. If you are running 2 OB2's then yes you will need at least 120A, more than likely around 150A to be safe. If you are running 2 viair compressors (any version) then a 90A will most likely do. You can get a cheap 120A one pretty easily so you might just want to keep it around for when the 90A dies. Another thing that will help quite a bit is to do the big three wiring upgrade. It will give you less of a voltage drop in your charging system and provide a quicker means of charging/supplying energy.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

If you ever swing through Buffalo you can stop by my house cause I got an extra 120amp gen I can sell you.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Niagara_V_Dub said:


> If you ever swing through Buffalo you can stop by my house cause I got an extra 120amp gen I can sell you.


 im always in buffalo, and that just sounds like motivation


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

pm sent


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

So now im being told to change my wiring from the 75x, to the key sensing wire? Is this the same one the radio runs off? And hopfully ill get around to wiring up my 2nd compressor soon and finishing the trunk. Can i run dual 444c's with the factory alternator? 
OLD:

random by Bierce IV, on Flickr
Wheels are being dipped in chrome, new lips. And new skirts and bumpers are arriving alont with fresh paint
Newer:

037 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

197625_4122851319328_260249772_n by Bierce IV, on Flickr


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

still notchless and swaybar still in. And the rear wheel is ripping paint off the fender now:facepalm:.
I really need new wheels

7626921540_e8c1094ee8 by Bierce IV, on Flickr

7626916638_5fc2659cd1_z by Bierce IV, on Flickr

7623384328_17da81a953 by Bierce IV, on Flickr


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## RomanML320 (Jan 13, 2005)

You should let Scruggs do a notch! I just wondered in here and saw your post. I love the way your car sits! RS's !!! :heart:


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Clear up some room in your inbox sir


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

RomanML320 said:


> You should let Scruggs do a notch! I just wondered in here and saw your post. I love the way your car sits! RS's !!! :heart:


i need one bad. but i may be trading the wheels as we speak going to dubs in the buff?

And will, cleared some room


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

You had better come to the Say Cheese GTG! I am moving and I want to see this beast before I go.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

when is this? i only know about that gtg the 25th. Trying to hook up this 2nd compressor still without much luck. And i still need to finish my trunk layout:banghead:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Bierce IV said:


> when is this? i only know about that gtg the 25th. Trying to hook up this 2nd compressor still without much luck. And i still need to finish my trunk layout:banghead:


Which system? Have you tried jumpering the second compressor off the power circuit of the first compressor?


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

v2, and i thought i wasnt suppose to splice into the other system?? I have looked at the diagram and the wires dont match up at all. Isnt there another wiring diagram that someone made on here?


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Bierce IV said:


> when is this? i only know about that gtg the 25th. Trying to hook up this 2nd compressor still without much luck. And i still need to finish my trunk layout:banghead:


That is the same one. I will see you there.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

I'm assuming viair compressors so you will have to add another relay. Or you can just get an 80A relay and run both directly off of it? Get a stinger 80A relay, connect the small black and pink wires to the two small posts of the relay (85&86) and then hook up your battery to one of the big terminals and then run both your compressor wires to the other terminal.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

it came with another relay, but that seems like a way easier way to do it TBH


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

If it came with another relay the way you hook it up is as follows:

pin 30 - fused to battery
pin 87 - to compressor positive
pin 85 - to 87 pin on relay 1
pin 86 - ground

Then ground the other side of the compressor and it should work. Only downfall is that if your relay 1 blows then neither of your compressors will work so you will have to swap the relays to get the compressor 1 to work again


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## RomanML320 (Jan 13, 2005)

Bierce IV said:


> i need one bad. but i may be trading the wheels as we speak going to dubs in the buff?
> 
> And will, cleared some room


I may. I'd like to.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> If it came with another relay the way you hook it up is as follows:
> 
> pin 30 - fused to battery
> pin 87 - to compressor positive
> ...


thanks man, ill finish it up tomorrow.. and hopefully finish my trunk.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

so its normal for the blue one to not be used? Everything else i followed and/or spliced


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

TBH i am going to just order a 80a stinger because it seems a lot easier and safer


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Thats what I run, a stinger relay. It just seemed more rugged and easier to hook up. I just want to buy a back up just in case.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

picked up 2 stinger 80a relays today. i found some diagrams thanks to MechEngg. But looking through some other threads, does the stinger relays with dual compressors and the v2 system not get along? it seems from other threads that it causes issues.


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

Unsure, I run 4 simple momentary on-off-on switches.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

where can i order some carpet to match the carpet already in the car? i need to wrap my false floor


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## rgarjr (May 19, 2012)

Bierce IV said:


> where can i order some carpet to match the carpet already in the car? i need to wrap my false floor


eBay has some good selection.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

call me crazy but im debating on ditching the entire wiring i just did, and going back to the single compressor. Would i have to change back from the 4g wire and 100amp fuse back to the 30amp fuse and 10g wire?


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## Niagara_V_Dub (Sep 25, 2007)

You don't have to change the wire, theoretical it would create a tiny bit more resistance but that's negligable. The fuse swap back to the 30 though cause it needs to be matched to the compressor.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

. Ill be keeping the dual 444c's for now. im relocating the compressors and ECU to the spare wheel well. And for road trips ill carry a low profile jack, and the spare in the wheel bag in the trunk.... if it fits.


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## Bierce IV (Apr 5, 2010)

Moved stuff around, got rid of the stinger thank god. And im getting a single ob2 over the dual 444c's.

I started by lying down dynomat which is pricey and there is a knockoff which works just as well.

IMG_1191 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
I then the compressors/manifold/wiring on a piece of mdf board and locked it in with the spare wheel locking thing.

IMG_1193 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
I then built the 2x4 frame over the hardware.

IMG_1202 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
I then built a 2 piece mdf board false floor which has holes drilled for airlines and 2 hangars to hinge open the floor to work on the goodies underneath.

IMG_1206 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
Open:
IMG_1207 by Bierce IV, on Flickr
The entire floor is now carpeted and the hangars are hidden along with the holes i drilled. I can get updated pictured.


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