# TT Grinding Noise in Wheels



## aboxoflogic (Jan 1, 2013)

I apologize for being a newbie and posting my problem but I'm in Miami and it's hard for me to trust the mechanics here that often either let you drive off without any idea of what's wrong or want to charge you extreme amounts just to check the car.

I've had my TT for about 2 years now and it all started when I got a flat tire about a year ago. I got cheap local tires put on and the car sounded horrible - very loud and of course, when I went back the guy said it was that tires were just loud. I dealt with it, kinda believing him, until the noise started getting louder and louder. I took the car to several mechanics and finally one guy convinced me it was wheel bearings in the front passenger side and $450 later the car seemed much better.

But there was a sound, a low sound that continued. I recently got another flat and had both front tires replaced. The sound continued and was more detectable when turning sharp. Enough that I learned to be more careful turning. I asked a mechanic recently what he thought after a test drive and he suggested it was something in the differential - he argued the noise, although sounding "front-ish" was coming from the back. Of course, he said he doesn't deal with foreign cars nor differentials and suggested I go to Audi proper...

Fast forward to today. I go to get in the car to go to lunch from my office building parking and as I turned the wheels they made a grinding noise. The noise was present in both directions and it wasn't there this morning when I went to work. I drove it carefully the one mile home and it sits out front until I can figure out what to do. 

There is a highly rated car shop (Repairs & Service of Audi & VW cars. Miami, Hollywood, Fort Lauderdale, Auto Repair Mechanic) about 9 miles away but I'm honestly nervous to drive it there. The problem doesn't seem to be present if I am driving straight but the grinding comes as soon as I need to turn a corner or even go around a bend.

Other notable things recently but probably not relevant:
a) My check engine light came on and I went to two mechanics with it. One pointed out that my oil dipstick tube was gone and thanks to ECS Tuning and $10 with shipping I replaced it myself over the weekend. I was nervous about the oil I might have lost so I bought a quart of 5W-30 and through that in. Check engine light is still on though.
b) Other forum posts suggest I check the power steering fluid and I did and it is fine.

Of course, I worried that now with the noises today the I ignored something very important and have a mess on my hands. I only learned about the Haldex oil and filters recently trying to read about the noise and have not replaced them since I've had the car - which is less than 20K miles but who knows when that was last done... It has about 96,000 miles on it today.

Any direction at all would be greatly appreciated!


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## ALMSTT (Feb 28, 2012)

Could just be the wheels.
When I bought mine, it had four different used tires on it, but they were all cupped to hell with wires showing on the insides.
The right front wheel was howling like the bearing was going out, but when I put all new tires on and got it aligned, the howling went away.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

First I take no responsibility if you kill or injure yourself or your property!

Either get all 4 wheels off the ground, or like me put front wheels off ground and pull the HALDEX fuse to disable the rear wheels. 

Start the car and put it in first gear, turn the wheel side to side. If at full lock you hear the grinding, suspect the CV. Especially if you see one of the wheels stop turning at such a low RPM at full lock. Either hammer on a new CV ($120) or buy new full axles / half-shafts from raxles.com

Make sure power steering fluid is at the right level before you do this. My local napa sells the special PENSOIL (sp?) power steering fluid.

While its up in the air, with the engine off, you might see under the wheel a scratches area that has been rubbing (wheels, brake dust shield etc) . If you see nothing, I think its your CV joint (boots ripped?). 

Let us know what it turns out to be.


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## nilreb (Mar 17, 2012)

ALMSTT said:


> Could just be the wheels.
> When I bought mine, it had four different used tires on it, but they were all cupped to hell with wires showing on the insides.
> The right front wheel was howling like the bearing was going out, but when I put all new tires on and got it aligned, the howling went away.




had a loud noise coming from the rear right that seemed to grind as i go faster. i even had a couple mechanics examine it and they were convinced.. so i got a pair of SKF rear bearings. 

my uncle, however, a long time mech, suggested to move the tire to front before anything else. 

that was it. it was my Eagle F1 tire in the rear right that was making noise. the noise did move to the front right but not as loud as when it was in the rear. 

i'm not exactly sure what's wrong with the tire, but with 85% tread life left, i'm just gonna keep it.


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## aboxoflogic (Jan 1, 2013)

*Thank you*

This was exactly the kind of info I was looking for - I'm suspect of the CV (and don't worry I'm not going to lift the car and kill myself - although how many times I wished for a lift while owning this TT so I could just look under it I can't express to you) and/or axles. I really don't understand either of these things but know that the car has a problem no one can diagnose and it is getting worse. I worry about the Haldex (another thing I don't really understand) and am sure it's not in a good state. I'm going to take it to the German Car Depot here in Hollywood, FL and hope they don't murder me with the price of these things.


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## aboxoflogic (Jan 1, 2013)

Oh and the power steering fluid is good - I had hope that was the only problem but it's actually fine...


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Eagle F1 tires are notorious for being ultra loud! So i'm with nilreb on this one. We put them on my wife's CC after taking the conti's off and it felt like the car was riding on airless tires.

Good luck with the mechanic aboxoflogic! There is a lot of work you can do to this car if you have the time but sometimes is good to have a backup local mechanic.


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## aboxoflogic (Jan 1, 2013)

*Mechanic's Answer*

So they "advised" me that the passenger side inner CV boot is damaged and the driver side joint needs replacement - then (and only then) they will detect any major problems. They also noted that the valve cover gaskets are leaking into the spark plugs and coils. Each job was quoted at $750. Does this make sense to you guys??


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

that sounds like a spot on diagnosis.

Welcome to the world of Geman car ownership 

I have done both jobs myself. You can get a blauparts kit plus tool rental for around $50 for the valve cover its not super hard if you take your time and are patient, its mostly unbolting a ton of junk over the engine. Mandatory you have a torque wrench so you don't over tighten the valve cover bolts.

Axle swap is the way to go if you don't have the 18" factory wheels with the huge hex bolt. Just don't ever ever ever use one of those new axles made in China by FEQ or Autozone etc. Its ok to use a rebuilt one from NAPA etc (all Cardone axles who supplies all the chains are decent). About $120-150 for rebuilt axles (which have new CVs). If you have the 18inch rims forget it, too big a pain to even find rebuilds unless you pay a fortune to raxles (still great axles but seriously too expensive). Hamming on a new CV joint is such a mess pain I'll never do it again.

If you aren't mechanically inclines, pay the $650 :banghead: Many times I wish I did, like a $33 wheel bearing wound up costing me close to $600 in all the parts I broke replacing it (spindle, 2 hubs, 3 wheel bearings and a body that ached for a week) So know what you are getting into before you attempt anything. Sure I spent a ton of money, but now I'm a pro at any wheel bearing work I'll ever need to do


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

aboxoflogic said:


> So they "advised" me that the passenger side inner CV boot is damaged and the driver side joint needs replacement - then (and only then) they will detect any major problems. They also noted that the valve cover gaskets are leaking into the spark plugs and coils. Each job was quoted at $750. Does this make sense to you guys??


Thatd'd be about right for the axles but is ludicrous money for the valve cover gasket.


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## aboxoflogic (Jan 1, 2013)

toy4two2 said:


> that sounds like a spot on diagnosis.
> 
> Welcome to the world of Geman car ownership
> 
> ...


Thank you - this forum is amazing - you guys are great - I think I'll have to pay for the suspension stuff but maybe I'll do the valve stuff myself.


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## 20v master (May 7, 2009)

aboxoflogic said:


> Thank you - this forum is amazing - you guys are great - I think I'll have to pay for the suspension stuff but maybe I'll do the valve stuff myself.


The valve cover gasket is SUPER easy, nothing more than 10mm nuts holding it to the head, 10mm bolt holding down the ground for the coil pack harness, and removing whatever is on top of your head (you didn't say 225 or 180 TT). Then you bend a few hardlines near the back right corner of the head to give clearance to lift off the cover, replace your gasket, and reinstall. Should take no more than an hour if the engine is cool and you have the few tools required.


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