# oil line question vrt



## golf2.0gti (Jul 15, 2007)

doing a turbo setup on a 2000 vr6 was looking at atp oil feed and return kits. they dont have pictures but what they include everything im going to need or are there some tee's adaptors/more fittings that need to be bought as well.

this is my 1st build so im no farmilier with all the -4an and other things that are posted. if some1 had a break down of everything needed to do complete oil feed and return and sizes would b very helpfull:thumbup:


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

If it were me, I would run a -4 oil feed line if you are running a non ballbearing turbo without a restrictor. You will want to get a three way T and remove the right sensor from the top of the oil filter housing looking at it from the front, closest to the trans. The oil return should be -10 in size. 

I will get you a link to some pics in a sec.


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## golf2.0gti (Jul 15, 2007)

cool prob sould of added its a journal bearing t4 turbo 1.15 haha. i had lookd for pics but nothing was in good detail


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Great build thread with lots of pics, even though its a MK3 it will help you with the details as its a VR6. His oil feed line is wrong in the pics btw, it should be on the right sensor.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4553731-My-Turbo-Build-(56k-beware)

You will need the following for the feed line.

Two of these, one for each end of the feed line
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=ATP-OIL-006&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1

One of these, to tee in the feed line at the oil filter housing. Remove the left sensor facing the filter housing and install this there. Then put the sensor in the top leaving the side port for the feed line.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=ATP-OIL-010&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1

One of these, length will depend on how you are going to route it. Under the intake manifold or around it, the longer length would be for going around it, which is what I would do.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=ATP-OIL-015&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1
Or
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=ATP-OIL-016&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1
That will make your oil feed line.

For the oil return I would do this.

One of these for the oil pan, will need it welded in.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220073/

one of these, threaded into the bung in the oil pan.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=ATP-OIL-007&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1

One of these, installed on the bottom of the turbo.
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/pr..._T4_Aluminum_Oil_Drain_Flange_10-386-290.html

and the gasket for it
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=GRT-GSK-007&Category_Code=ATP-OIL2

Two of these, one on either end.
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/10AN_to_5_8_Pushlock_Brass-401-5.html
6 feet of this incase it ever needs to be replaced in the future from road debris, ask me how I know.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/306010/10002/-1?parentProductId=749410

Make sure you use teflon tape on all connections to ensure leak free operation. This is just one way to do it, you can find all of this stuff for cheaper if you shop around. This was just to give you an idea on how to do it. I prefer to run the oil return like in the above thread, less restrictive without a tight 90 into the pan. Good luck with your project.


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## J_Bone (Apr 11, 2009)

yes the ATP kit has everything you need, just make sure you settle on a turbo and order the oil line kit that works with that turbo. If your not sure dont be afraid to call them, they actually have half decent service reps on the line.


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## golf2.0gti (Jul 15, 2007)

thanks that helps alot. another question thats on my mind rite now is the use of an inline fuel pump. there is currently a 255walbro installed on my vr but no wires going to it. im planing on runing c2 stg2 software so 1. do i need the pump installed and 2. are there any current installs that the pics havent been removed lol. 

did a search and found like 2installs but all the pics were removed, and what wired/relays etc would i need, or can i buy just an electical kit


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

A -10 an line is far from being big enough. Have you ever seen or measured the inside diameter of a factory turbo car?

-10 an lines are measured from the outside diameter of the line, not the inside where it counts. Aeroquip list the inside diameter of their -10an line being 0.563. Measure the inside diameter of the drain hole on your turbo, i guarantee its much bigger

On the factory holset hx series the drain tubes are pretty big, around 0.87 inside diameter. When I set up my drain I ran a Russel -16an line. Its ****ing huge and was a real pain in the ass to install, but I feel much better about it.

Here is some pics of my setup:

Kinda sh**** pic but w/e:









I ran a straight fitting instead of this:









Before you even make the purchase, dont ever waste your time with the BFI turbo pan, they suck. The 4 cyl one points right at the axle and is useless unless you like running a perfect 90* fitting, instead of the sweeping one that I posted in my pic.

There is a lot of info on the dsm forum that I posted in the holset user thread about undersize drain lines and people pushing oil past their seals due to the oil not making it out of the turbo fast enough.



GinsterMan98 said:


> Make sure you use teflon tape on all connections to ensure leak free operation. This is just one way to do it, you can find all of this stuff for cheaper if you shop around. This was just to give you an idea on how to do it. I prefer to run the oil return like in the above thread, less restrictive without a tight 90 into the pan. Good luck with your project.


Make sure if you teflon tape anything its on something with NPT threads, do not do it on something with AN fittings/threads, that is what the flare is there for.

I strongly suggest you get an inline pressure guage on the feed to your turbo to read the pressure and make sure its in spec for what your turbo manufacturer suggest. Just "running a restrictor because xxx said so or does" doesnt mean that it is correct


Sorry for the rant but there is so many arguments about running a restrictor or not yet no one provides oil pressure information/data


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Are you serious??? A -10 is fine for a drain line, WTF are you talking about? You DO NOT need a restrictor on a non BB turbo. Thats why you *run a -4 feed line*. Also, before you continue to spread false info, its not the oil pressure you should be conserned about it the VOLUME of oil going in that will over fill the turbo causing it to bleed past the seals. The -4 feed line will handle the volume. 

You know what I don't understand? How come no one used restrictors before BB turbous came out? Oh, yeah thats because they are for just bb turbos.


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## sp_golf (Nov 28, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> A -10 an line is far from being big enough. Have you ever seen or measured the inside diameter of a factory turbo car?
> 
> -10 an lines are measured from the outside diameter of the line, not the inside where it counts. Aeroquip list the inside diameter of their -10an line being 0.563. Measure the inside diameter of the drain hole on your turbo, i guarantee its much bigger


The oil drain on the GT35R I'm installing is barelly 1/2", -10AN is fine.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Trust me man, you are using a Holset turbo from a truck, thats why it has such a large opening for the oil drain. You would have been fine with a -10 line or at the max a -12. If you still had oil draining issues you could always go down to a -3 feed line to limit volume flow. Sorry if I came off alittle harsh before, I just hate all this talk of restrictors on non BB turbo. Its a bandaid for needing a rebuild.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

here is a -10an drain
















http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._589302965314_34309990_36374879_2259208_n.jpg

-10 an weld bung









why dont you check to see what the drain specs are from Garrett or whoever your turbo manufacturer is?

My point is the drain line should have the same inside diameter as the drain hole on the turbo

here is the link where I got my info http://http://www.dsmtuners.com/for...rbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small-5.html


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

sp_golf said:


> The oil drain on the GT35R I'm installing is barelly 1/2", -10AN is fine.


your running a BB turbo, they barely take any oil so having a small drain is ok imho


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Ok, I see your point. You don't want a bottle neck in your oil return line for sure. I still use teflon tape on the threads of AN fittings, call me anal I guess, Mine has no leaks. I can see there being a problem if he was going to use a -6 or -8 return line. I have never heard of anyone using and thing larger than -10 on a return line before. The main thing you need to worry about is having tight bends or a restrictive 90 deg at the pan. The oil return line is not pressuized, so its gravity doing the work. I still don't see how a -10 line would be to small for a t-4.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

That's what I mean. Pay attention to how many people run 10an drains and have turbo smoking issues. And if one were to use that god awful bfi pan you would have a very sharp 90* angle. 

There is pressure in the drain line .....crankcase pressure caused by every time a piston fires.


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Ok, all your points make good sense and I don't want to just give the OP the typical Vortex answer. What would you have him run?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

I cant see anything wrong with going the biggest possible drain, and getting an adapter from summitt to test the oil pressure going into the turbo, and making sure his feed pressure and return line are what his turbo manufacturer recommends.

I will try to find the link later on for the adapter

I think if i didnt order the wrong parts i would be into my drain setup for maybe $75. Instead because I bought the wrong **** I spent well over 100:banghead:


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## golf2.0gti (Jul 15, 2007)

what kind of adaptor are u refering to? i get why u need a large oil drain line, but if your saying about putting in a restrictor i dont wanna under feed the turbo and starve it of oil. 

did a quick look and couldnt find specs for oil lines on the turbo i am running. its a Borg Warner T4 1.15a/r turbine .60 a/r compressor vbanded journel bearing


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Thats why you run a small feed line -4. It limits the volume of oil going to the turbo, not pressure.


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

*Oil Return*

I run a -10 for the oil return on BB turbos (as stated due to the reduction in volume/flow that these turbos see). Have not had any issues with either Garrett or Precision while running this size return for several years.

I am using a -10 on a Precision journal unit just because I had surplus -10 laying around. I too think for most larger journal bearing turbos the -10 is cutting it close and you should keep the diameter consistent with the turbo drain/oil return flange instead of having it taper. The plan is to fit a larger oil return on the journal turbo at some point soon if nothing else just for peace of mind.


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

golf2.0gti said:


> what kind of adaptor are u refering to? i get why u need a large oil drain line, but if your saying about putting in a restrictor i dont wanna under feed the turbo and starve it of oil.
> 
> did a quick look and couldnt find specs for oil lines on the turbo i am running. its a Borg Warner T4 1.15a/r turbine .60 a/r compressor vbanded journel bearing


Its a male/female 4 an piece with 1/4 npt port to install a pressure guage. You would install this after the restrictor to seewhat kind of pressure your feeding the turbo.


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## golf2.0gti (Jul 15, 2007)

so to sum up this alittle b4 i spand money -4 is good for my oil feed line, and is there someting larger then -10 for the oil return? the hole on the turbo is slightly larger then .5 in. i see y u dont want to small of a return line but does a slight diff in size going to have a huge impact down the road?

and if it comes to it would fabing aluminum bends be better like the 1.8ts have?


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## GinsterMan98 (May 19, 2008)

Dave did bring up some valid points, as for check the pressure I will leave that up to you. I guess you could run a -12 line, just try your best to keep tight bends out of the final product. G/L


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

12 an is much better than 10an. Try to route the drain line around the axle, not between the axle and oil pan. Get some cheap calipers and measure the size the drain hole. Summit list the inside diameter of their braided steel lines so try to get one that matches in size.

I used a cummins drain tube with the drain clamped on bc the largets drain flange I could find was a -10 an


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## V-dubbulyuh (Nov 13, 2005)

GinsterMan98 said:


> I guess you could run a -12 line, just try your best to keep tight bends out of the final product. G/L


Exactly what I will be doing next time I have to screw around with the oil pan or drain on my journal setup.


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