# First time MS user, VR6 Turbo



## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Thought I would start a thread here. I bought a MS3 with 3X from Need_A_VR6 and he has been a great help, looking to get some more advice here to get this car going good so I am not always nagging Paul! 

93 Corrado VR6 with 3.0L, big valve, cams, Precision HP6262BB, 60# injectors. 
SRI with a MK3 ODB2 throttle body. 3" exhaust, kinetic manifold. Not sure what else is important! 

I cut out the factory ecu and wired in the MS3 using the MS3X for the injectors and ignition, using factory coil pack. Injection is set to batch currently. 

So with Pauls help, I got the car to idle. It would start and then stall. I calculated the required fuel at 5.3 but I kept upping it until I could get it to start and stay running. I ended up at 22! and it would idle at 2200rpm. 

I think the problem has to do with the odb2 throttle body, when the MS turns on it opens up the throttle body, possibly too much? Is this normal? as per Pauls instructions, I set it to 195hz. 

This is the point I am currently stuck at. I have a wideband but not wired in yet, I am about to do that tonight.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Sharino said:


> Thought I would start a thread here. I bought a MS3 with 3X from Need_A_VR6 and he has been a great help, looking to get some more advice here to get this car going good so I am not always nagging Paul!
> 
> 93 Corrado VR6 with 3.0L, big valve, cams, Precision HP6262BB, 60# injectors.
> SRI with a MK3 ODB2 throttle body. 3" exhaust, kinetic manifold. Not sure what else is important!
> ...


 Try a higher frequency. MS3 supports them and all of the OBD2 throttle bodies I have scoped operate at 500hz with the factory ecu.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

This is nearly identical to my setup except I have OBD1 TB and run on MS2. 

Basic: 

Req Fuel: 4.9 
Control Algorithm: Speed Density 
Squirts Per Engine Cycle: 2 
Injector Staging: Alternating (Depends on how you have it wired... there are enough injector drivers with MS3 for sequential fuel) 
Engine Stroke: Four-Stroke 
Number of Cylinders: 6 
Injector Port Type: Port Injection 
NUmber of Injectors:6 
Engine Type: Even Fire 

Injector Characteristics: 
Injector Open Time: 1.0MS 
Batter Voltage Correction: .1 
PWN Current Limit %: 100 
PWM Time Threshold MS: 25.5 
Injector PWM Period: 66 

Trigger Wheel settings 
Tigger wheel teeth: 60 
Missing teeth:2 
Tooth #1 Angle: 78 
Wheel sped: Crank wheel 


Here's a screen shot of my VE table 1. Yours will be very similar but not identical... you could load this and drive safely but you will need to monitor with a wideband and tune prior to horsing around. My setup is 2.8 12v Vr6, T04Z, .69ar hot, 262 cams, schimmel sri, atp mani/3" turbo back with cat. Fuel is 60lbs injectors BUT with 35psi base pressure and 1:1 rising rate of Aeromotive A1000 regulator... this behaves slightly differently than a stock FPR which will change the tune. If you would like the export of this so you may load the table directly into your MS3 then send me a PM. 

You will want to change the values in here for idle rather than the req fuel: 









I've worked with the obd2 vr6 tb on another project and my idle settings were: 

Algorithm: PWM 
When to use: Warmup Only 
Idle Valve Frequency: 183 
Cranking Dc: 80 
Idle duty at lower temp (dc): 47 
Idle duty at upper temp (dc): 30 
Fast Idle lower temp: -40F 
Slow Idle upper temp: 200 

If you're getting too much air at idle causing you to go lean or race then just lower the value of the idle duty a couple points at a time and burning to see the result in how the engine runs. 

Hope this helps... it's easy once you get over the first few hurdles and learn.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

I think I am going to give up on getting the odb2 throttle body to work, I have tried different frequencys, anything from 100-500hz, it wont stop buzzing and opens 25% which is too high. I will leave it attached but only for the TPS sensor and unwire the ICV functionality of it. 

I will try and fit a odb1 ICV attached to the SRI post throttlebody. My question is, do I have to route the other side to the intercooler piping or can it just go to its mini air filter, since I am using MAP. Basically does the ICV close completely under boost to prevent a vacuum leak?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

Sharino said:


> I will try and fit a odb1 ICV attached to the SRI post throttlebody. My question is, do I have to route the other side to the intercooler piping or can it just go to its mini air filter, since I am using MAP. Basically does the ICV close completely under boost to prevent a vacuum leak?


 Yes put the other side to the I/C piping.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Thats what I figured, I guess I will have to weld another fitting onto the IC piping to run to the ICV. I wish the ODB2 TB worked, it is alot cleaner in the engine bay. :banghead: 

can anybody show me the proper Idle settings in TS to use with the oem ICV for the 93 VR6?


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

I have them and will dig out after work. Have you thought about obd1 tb? It has an idle stop adjustment so no ISV necessary. Mine starts up cold and idles fine at about 750. Once hot it idles closer to 880. Zero headaches. 

-Andrew


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Sharino said:


> Thats what I figured, I guess I will have to weld another fitting onto the IC piping to run to the ICV. I wish the ODB2 TB worked, it is alot cleaner in the engine bay. :banghead:
> 
> can anybody show me the proper Idle settings in TS to use with the oem ICV for the 93 VR6?





DieGTi said:


> I have them and will dig out after work. Have you thought about obd1 tb? It has an idle stop adjustment so no ISV necessary. Mine starts up cold and idles fine at about 750. Once hot it idles closer to 880. Zero headaches.
> 
> -Andrew


 Ya, but long story short, I was planning on doing a turbo build for a MK4 GTI VR, ended up changing my mind, selling the mk4 and using everything for my Corrado. I ordered my SRI from Juan for a mk4, so now a ODB1 TB will not fit the flange unless I make up some kind of adapter. 
Poor planning on my part!


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

I think it's easier to attach obd1 to an aluminum obd2 flange because you just have to drill the holes larger and tap... not so easy to go the other way.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Obd1 tb 100hz and closed dc is around 30% full cold I set to 45-48. 

You sure that obd2 tb is good?


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Yeah... There are some wiring schematics out there for the obd2 tb that are incorrect... should work fine if wired and programmed properly.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Ya, I know what you mean about the different wiring information, I believe it is mostly for the TPS which is 5-0V by default, I have that part all work and my TPS calibrated correctly. 

I am going to get another odb2 mk3 TB and see if its doing the same thing before I try switching to a different ICV.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Post a screen shot of your idle valve settings or email me your msq. Might be a setting in there that's funny still as well.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

tried another MK3 ODB2 and got the same results. 

The only settings I have in TS are as follows:

Algorythm: PWM Warmup
crank to run taper time: 5
Valve Mode: Normal, 0%=off
Output mode: Fidle
3 Wire Mode: off
Valve Frequency selection: Use reduced
reduced frequency: 195hz

Everything else is not editable

Are these settings correct?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

On ms2 I have used 200hz without a problem but you could try higher. Also you can try swapping the polarity at the tb or in the code and see if it behaves differently.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

need_a_VR6 said:


> On ms2 I have used 200hz without a problem but you could try higher. Also you can try swapping the polarity at the tb or in the code and see if it behaves differently.


Noob question, but 200hz is where mine is set to 195hz correct? There is preselect values only so I assume I pick the closest to 200?

How do you swap polarity in the code?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

195hz is as close as you can get. Switch it from normal to reverse under valve mode to change operation.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Ok, the ICV was opening the valve 25% according to the TPS gauge, so I swapped the settings and it moved it down to 8%, is that what it is suppose to be? I calibrated the TPS with no power going to the ICV, so 0% is completely closed. When I turn ignition on, it goes to 8% TPS, I tried different frequencies, from 195-390, etc, didn't seem to make much difference, so I left it at 195hz

Still having problems getting it to idle properly, the calculator says my fuel needs to be 5.3, I kept trying to up it again to try and get it to idle, but it keeps stalling, it idles at about 1000rpm, for 3 or 4 seconds, if I change the fuel req to 7 or 8ms, I can get it to idle for 15 seconds. I tried adjusting the ASE and Warmup Enrichment, didn't want to change it too much but couldn't get it really to help.

Any ideas what to do next? Getting really frustrated :banghead:


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

I can take a look next week... in DC for a wedding until Sunday. Very quickly, can you post a screen shot of your VE 1 table?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Spent some time on it today, and I finally got it running good. I changed the VE tables to what DieGTi provided me, and it ran 110% better. Idles good, and once I clean up some coolant hoses in the way from my 02M 6spd swap, it will be ready for a test drive!

Thanks!


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

My accel, warm-up enrich and ase settings are well tested. You should be able to pull those from my msq and have a daily driver... that said you should likely only tune with the VE1 table once everything else is loaded.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

How's it running? My inbox is no longer full if you're trying to message me.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> How's it running? My inbox is no longer full if you're trying to message me.


 Its still hard to start when cold, takes quite a few times to get it going. Once its warmed a bit, it idles better. Still need to fix a few things then take it for a test drive.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Mind sending me msq and datalogs? If mechanical is in order then you should be a half hour from a really decent street tune.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Alright, I sent my MSQ I am using and the logs of it trying to start when cold.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Found some things comparing your msq settings to mine... 

1) "Don't Include AFR Target" for secondary load parameters. 
2) Over-run fuel cut, KPA lower than 33, TPS lower than 3%, after delays 1.0, delay ego after fuel return seconds 1, return fuel when rpm less than 1100. 
3) Noise filter On, Tach period rejection On, time (ms) 0.1, percentage (%) 10 
4) Coolant based crank duty... I don't use. 
5) Idle Advance Duty... I don't use. 
6) Accel Enrich low threshold 1400, high threshhold 6500 
7) Accel Enrichment Wizard, Mapdot threshold 250kpa, Accel time .3, Accel taper time .3, End pulsewidth 0.0 
Throttle Position vs manifold Pressure Accel Enrichment Strategy, Percent TPS Driven 25% 
TPSdot threshold (%/S) 80.0, Decel Fuel Amount 95%, Cold Accel Enrich(ms) 6, Cold Accel Multiplier(%) 175 
8) Launch Control is On... turn it off until everything is tuned.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Any luck?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

I made all the changes you mentioned, still hard to start when cold. I have been quite busy and haven't really spent any time on it lately, just got back from holidays yesterday.

I ordered new plugs and need to swap them out as the old fuel settings really messed them up. I will install them tomorrow and report back.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Plugs... I would recommend NGK 4644 aka BKR7E.

I've tweaked my tune quite a bit including my cold start enrichment. I'll send you the latest if you would like.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> Plugs... I would recommend NGK 4644 aka BKR7E.
> 
> I've tweaked my tune quite a bit including my cold start enrichment. I'll send you the latest if you would like.


Thats the exact plugs I have new in box sitting in my garage. I actually bought 18 of them just incase! lol. Hard to find locally here.

Yes, please send your file. still have my email?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Well, changed the plugs and fixed an incorrect setting, I had it set to a 2.5bar MAP and I believe I had Paul build it with a 4bar. Changed it to MPXH6400 and it starts and idles great. 

Problem is, still idles way to high, stays at 2100rpm. Not sure how to lower it, I have the cable to the throttle body so there is a slight bit of slack but the throttle still opens a bit by the ICV wiring (10% on the TPS dial) not sure how I can lower this in the idle settings.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Check for vacuum leaks on the manifold - I usually listen around for the hissing.

Lowering idle would be lowering the duty cycle in the idle valve settings.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> Check for vacuum leaks on the manifold - I usually listen around for the hissing.
> 
> Lowering idle would be lowering the duty cycle in the idle valve settings.


If I turn the ICV off, the idle drops down to 500rpm and works when warm so I believe there is no leak, its just something is telling the ICV to open my throttle body to 20%. Even when warm. I need to confirm with Paul he put PWM circuitry in cause something is weird. I just turned it off for now, once its warm, idles ok.

I also having a problem with the TACH output. Instructions say to use T37/3 wire to the tach, the wire is marked as SPR1 and goes to T68/22 on the Corrado ( green/black). I set Tunerstudio for output to be TACHO, is that correct?

Also, can you send me your latest MSQ DieGTI? Darren "AT" Eurowinnipeg 'DOT' com


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Post a screen shot of your idle settings.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)




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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Try un-inverted or mod the duty table.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

So I spent all weekend trying to tune this, I am about ready to quit and try and solder in my old ECU and harness! :banghead: 

I can get the car to run, but runs pretty rough and stumbles at lower rpms. Feels like it is running on 4 or 5 cylinders. It will backfire and looks like it shooting flames out the exhaust sometimes, fun at first but need to fix it! I have installed my third set of plugs, thinking they are getting carboned up from running so bad. The old ones actually looked ok and had even wear for the about 1 or 2 hr of idling/driving time. 

I purchased the full version of Tunerstudio and tried to get it to Autotune. it was changing lots of data but still not even close to a smooth running car, very small improvements. 

Strange thing is, when I get it into boost, it seems to run alot better, and tons of power. Weird thing is, I am not even sure what to expect with this car. With the exhaust, turbo and cams/engine I am running, what it should run like. But the way it is, I cannot daily drive it, thats for sure. 

I have my current MSQ and log file if anybody wants to PM me there email I can send it to them if they could have a look and any ideas, I would be forever grateful! :beer:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Send the current msq and log over to me.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

My ms3 upgrade is in the mail. I may be able to help more once mine is upgraded from ms2.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Sent MSQ and Log. 

Thanks!


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Another strange thing hopefully you guys can help with. I have a precision 39mm wastegate setup with a 10psi spring in it. I connected the vacuum line direct to the turbo's vacuum fitting as the manual described. No boost controller or anything yet. The second vacuum line of the presision wg (ontop) is open to atmostphere. When test driving, when I went into boost, it shoots up to 25psi. Any ideas? Shouldn't the wastegate open at 10psi?


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Sharino said:


> Another strange thing hopefully you guys can help with. I have a precision 39mm wastegate setup with a 10psi spring in it. I connected the vacuum line direct to the turbo's vacuum fitting as the manual described. No boost controller or anything yet. The second vacuum line of the presision wg (ontop) is open to atmostphere. When test driving, when I went into boost, it shoots up to 25psi. Any ideas? Shouldn't the wastegate open at 10psi?


Yes, check your spring and routing of that line. 

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/prod_imgs/installation/ul/install-27.pdf


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

As per that document, I have it installed as option A) currently (Spring Rate Controlled Method) as well I have only the green spring installed 9psi. That doc is the PW46 mine is the PW39, but same setup I guess. Its a brand new silicone vacuum hose connecting only the 2 items.

Any other ideas what to check?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Log looks like you have giant misfires, usually when duty cycle rises, which means it's likely over-rich. If you are using auto-tune set it to "easy" and set EGO authority 10-15%.

Also, your lower map bin change to ~20. You would probabl do well with less in boost breaks and more in the lower map range where VE and target afr changes faster.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Tried redoing my maps 20-120 in increments of 10. then increments of 20 upto 220.
New wideband 02, new plugs regapped, plug wires, coilpack. Compression test, triple checked all wiring. 

Tested spark output through tuner studio.

Is there an easy way to test the fuel injectors? They are all brand new but never know.

Also I noticed that my Air/Fuel ratio is lower on the MTX-L wideband gauge vs the gauge on tunerstudio display by about a full number (reads 13.2 when TS says its 14.2). Think that could have something to do with it?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Thats no good. Check grounds. Make sure ms and mtxl share grounds at least on the signal.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Got your logs but traveling for a bit and won't be able to look until I get back after the 25th.

My wideband reads off in the same measure which I hear is common for the Innovate programmables.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Only if you dont ground it proper.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

UPDATE!

-I ground the MTX-L to the same spot as the megaquirt grounds.
-Changed the spark settings to inverted

Now the Innoviate MTX and Tunerstudio are almost perfectly insync. Drove around a bit on autotune, started a little rough but Wow! after 5 minutes, car started to clear up and runs 100% percent better.

I cannot explain how happy I am. Funny thing is, even the boost issue fixed itself, I have no idea how, I didnt even touch my wastegate or vacuum lines but now I get to 10psi and thats the max likes it suppose to (for now :laugh

I still have a few minor issues but I am not nearly as worried about:

-idle valve, its on 'none' now, but its manageable, will play with it a bit more
-rpm, still cannot send the signal to the tach, I am sure I have the correct wire in the harness and I set up the output correctly on the MS as per Pauls instructions/setup. Can I put a test light on the output for RPM from MS to verify its sending the signal or is there a better way? Can I send power to the factory tach line and verify the guage moves?

Thanks guys!  Can't way to start cruising around in this car now, 2 years in the making. Just need to get it properly aligned now that I can drive it to the alignment shop.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The boost issue might have been due to high egts with the spark timing off as revs increase. 

For the tach double check that the pin usage matches the wire. If you are using ms3x tach or vvt outputs etc.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Now I am having the opposite problem, I cannot get it to boost past 10psi. 
Now that its runs good I put in a 18psi spring in my precision wastegate. 

Hits about 10psi and thats it, feels like its running out of fuel.

No boost controller.
Built a boost leak detector today, fixed a couple very minor leaks but still no improvement.
Is there something in the tuning that needs to be changed?
Divertor valve has the stiffest spring.
I am running a stock fuel pump, is that the issue? I read other guys are running the stock pump fine without issues in VRTs

I have a log of a few runs if anybody can give me some ideas what to check.

Thanks!


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

What's your a:f at max boost? True should be somewhere in the mid 11's.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

The highest it gets it the logs is 158kpa at which point the AFR is about 12.9/13 approx which seems about right with my AFR target table. I have been driving around with it on autotune lately.

I think I am still running your AFR table and the richest it goes is to 12.2 anyways.

Cant figure out why it is giving out at higher RPMS, I thought my turbo would spool to 20psi easy.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Yeah something funky you haven't found yet. Don't worry, its all part of the process. I hit overboost protection on mine well over 300kpa. I can look at logs on Sunday or Monday coming up. 

As for autotune: this is good for getting you going but you'll be able to tune better than it does once you're comfortable. Be sure you have ego controller authority set to 0% when you're using it. I usually tune without ego or accel enrichment active and get it as close to perfect as possible and then give the ego 20% authority for environmental changes after I'm done.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Found the problem, I have a thread in the turbo section, I left out my 'fire ring' when I attached the wastegate. :banghead:

Anyways, its running better now, only weird problem is in 1st and 2nd, I can barely hit 6 or 7 psi and it seems to just hang at that level. 3 or 4th I can get upto 16psi easily and great power. Not sure if thats normal or not. Someone mentioned it is.

My trans is a 6 spd 02M, gears feel pretty short, wish I installed bigger tires!

To stay on track with the SEM discussion in this section, do you guys run a boost controller/soleniod connected with MS? if so, whats the advantage?


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

I have a manual boost controller for now but with the MS3 upgrade waiting to go in I have the DIY Autotune solenoid. The advantage is the boost control is then programmable using the 5v speedo signal on the MS3X.... that will save you from baking tires in the lower gears and then bring in the high boost in the higher gears.

As far as the low boost in the first few gears it is possible that with a large hotside that you don't build boost fast enough or load enough. I think even with max boost I get 14lbs in 1st, 2nd gear maxes out though and near 70mph with an O2A CCM even if the speedo flashes to 80mph.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> I have a manual boost controller for now but with the MS3 upgrade waiting to go in I have the DIY Autotune solenoid. The advantage is the boost control is then programmable using the 5v speedo signal on the MS3X.... that will save you from baking tires in the lower gears and then bring in the high boost in the higher gears.
> 
> As far as the low boost in the first few gears it is possible that with a large hotside that you don't build boost fast enough or load enough. I think even with max boost I get 14lbs in 1st, 2nd gear maxes out though and near 70mph with an O2A CCM even if the speedo flashes to 80mph.


Ya, I dont have the problem baking tires, car is not putting out the power I thought it would.

I dont even have a large hotside, my turbo is a 6262bb with a 58ar. I thought it should have lots of low end boost. I think there is still something wrong with this car just can't figure it out yet. I have never been in another VRT so its hard to compare, not sure what to expect.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Whats timing like, still conservative? Afr?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Whats timing like, still conservative? Afr?


Here is the current timing and target AFR tables I am using:


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Once you get the air to fuel close for wide open throttle you can add timing beyond peak torque higher in the rpm band at the same kpa point which will bring the horse power up a good deal. This will be different for each setup depending on cams/turbo etc ...


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> Once you get the air to fuel close for wide open throttle you can add timing beyond peak torque higher in the rpm band at the same kpa point which will bring the horse power up a good deal. This will be different for each setup depending on cams/turbo etc ...


So are my AFR targers pretty good? They will stay at that? Then once I have them tuned in, I will adjust the timing carefully?


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Sharino said:


> So are my AFR targers pretty good? They will stay at that? Then once I have them tuned in, I will adjust the timing carefully?


 At 100KPA you should be no leaner than a true 13.0 a:f in my opinion... across the board. I pull that number out of my nether regions from tuning all-motor vr6 and finding that to be the 100KPA healthy point in those applications. Above that you would ramp until you reach somewhere in the mid to low 11's and below that 14.0-15.5 depending on your preference. My idle is a bit more steady in the 13's to low 14's for example. I am an amateur though so you may get better advice from a pro... although I've met some "pros" and not to toot my own horn but  :laugh:.

Yes, once you get a stable air to fuel without misfires you should begin tuning the timing which will be very difficult to do with a high level of accuracy without a dyno to measure the torque change. A steady-state dyno with real time torque would be ideal for quick tuning. If your experience is like mine you will find all the weak points in your setup that aren't apparent on the street but are on the dyno. It would probably be worth while to have a pro put some keyboard time in on a dyno - it will cost a bit of money but if they know what they're doing they can get some great power out.


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## Nastyboost35 (Mar 26, 2007)

Hey I was going thru a 09/92 corrado vr6 harness the other night and on the G1 connector is the signal from pin 1 of the coil, big black wire(G1/04) If you track it down in the bentley three black/green wires splice into this. Just a heads up. I am pretty sure one of the black/green wires goes to the instrument cluster via a jumper plug. Hope this maybe helps.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Nastyboost35 said:


> Hey I was going thru a 09/92 corrado vr6 harness the other night and on the G1 connector is the signal from pin 1 of the coil, big black wire(G1/04) If you track it down in the bentley three black/green wires splice into this. Just a heads up. I am pretty sure one of the black/green wires goes to the instrument cluster via a jumper plug. Hope this maybe helps.


 Thanks but I believe the setup/wiring is different for the distro cars vs the coilpack. I think the issue is a setting within my MS3. Still working on it.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Did you have a chance to try the last msq I sent over?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> Did you have a chance to try the last msq I sent over?


 Ya, I installed it, seems to run a bit better but there is still something funky going on I got to figure out. 

I really wish I could get my tach working!


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Have you swapped out the plugs recently? Have to get used to changing and reading those while tuning and dialing the engine in.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Swapped plugs a few times lately, mainly because its running so rich. The thing is just sucking so much gas. 

I thought I would have to wait until I have the fueling perfect before I even touch the timing tables. I might just try and get a tuner to put it on a dyno to find the MBT but I still think there is something wrong when it takes off. I am going to either order or setup some type of reservoir for my a/w intercooler and that seems to be getting pretty heatsoaked lately.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

If you're rich it's easy to adjust a percent or two at a time in specific blocks to make things better.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Ya, hopefully I get sometime this weekend to tinker with it. Do you use autotune much? Its seems everytime I drive, it wants to change almost everything, I assumed eventually it would get to the point it would some making so many adjustments but it never gets to that point. I had it on 'easy' initially, then 'normal' and I put it on 'hard' now so it stops making some many changes. I am hoping it will work its kinks out.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

I don't... I've tried it in the past but it can often times make things much worse.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Misfires and other things will throw it way off. You sure you dont have a dead or intermittent cylinder?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

I am actually thinking my problems now are down to the diverter valve. I am running a forge Supersize DV. Since I am running 18psi I put in the yellow 15-23psi spring. That seems to open the DV way to often and leaks, it actually runs best on the red sping thats suppose to be 30+ psi though. 

Currently I just have the valve open to atmosphere, one side is left unconnected. 

I am not even sure if those values are correct for the Supersize DV, as it came with no instructions and online they have no info on it, that is just the generic values for Forge springs I guess. 

I am going to email forge and verify that is all correct.


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Got some progress done tonight. I found out 2 major problems 

-first, my DV (forge Supersize) needs to run the 30+ red spring in a 18psi set up as per Forge instructions I got today, also, it had a leak, even though it is brand new, I took it apart and greased everything, that stopped the leak as per a leak test showed before and after. 

-secondly, as mentioned before, my Wideband gauge and what TS was reporting, was way out of wak again. I entered some manual linear settings (1V-10 and 5V-20) and they are insync perfect throughtout the range now. 

Combination of both these items really woke up the car (as well as some tips for my MSQ from DieGTI!). I was running way to rich in boost and TS thought it was 12 when my gauge was showing 10. I will take a longer drive tomorrow with autotune, a 20min drive today really helped and I saw almost instant improvements.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Further progress?


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

DieGTi said:


> Further progress?


Not really, kinda got frustrated and gave up, car is not performing nearly like I thought.

I am going to switch it over to sequential injection when I get ambitious. My boost is dropping as RPMS are climbing, not sure what is causing that, looks like a boost leak but I can't find it.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

What kind of boost drop across what RPM's? Shouldn't be dropping with that turbo unless there are a couple cylinders dropping out.


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

DieGTi said:


> What kind of boost drop across what RPM's? Shouldn't be dropping with that turbo unless there are a couple cylinders dropping out.


I've seen datalogs of this issue and I don't believe it's a miss. It builds boost, spikes ~19-20 psi and then slowly tapers down. Looks like a wastegate or BOV leak to me.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

are the datalogs on the msextra forum?


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## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

No he emailed them to me


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

What would you guys recommend at this point? DV is brand new, as are also all of the components. I cannot find a leak anywhere. The car is burning through fuel like there is no tomorrow. Yet my AFRs seem to be running ok.


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## DieGTi (Jun 19, 2001)

Fly me out to Winnipeg for a weekend and I'll tune it for you. :laugh:


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## Sharino (Aug 11, 2005)

Trust me, I am almost at that point. Not sure if its the tune though or something mechanical. I don't think the tune will cause the boost drop I am having.


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