# UOA on Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 at 6745 miles



## sbachmeier (Mar 2, 1999)

After a vigorous break-in and draining the factory fill oil at 1409 miles, added Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 and then drove on a 5000 mile vacation from Wisconsin to the Pacific Northwest and back. So this UOA is about 90% highway driving.


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## TechMeister (Jan 7, 2008)

Typical new engine UOA with high iron, copper and silicon.


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

Changing out early kept the loose metals under control before they became abrasive. Good move.

Other TSI UOAs show more total metals at the same mileage.

Wear rates should settle to about half of that next time. You refilled w/Motul again? Especialy if you are using the same oil, you can reuse your filter for two 5000 miles runs. I just remove, drain and re-install.


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## TechMeister (Jan 7, 2008)

Oil filters keep any debris from causing premature engine wear -- not changing the oil early. Any debris laying in the oil pan does zero abrasion and damage. If it's not circulating in the oil supply it's nonexistent for all practical purposes. Any debris must first pass the oil pickup screen, then the .001" oil pump gear clearances, then the 7 micron oil filter before it can get pumped thru the engine. It's pure nonsense to change engine oil early.


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

Wrong, like every other post of yours. It's kind of sad but funny too, like when a clown dies.


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## rhouse181 (Apr 13, 2008)

Nice oil choice... keep changing around the 5k interval until the wear metals drop to normal levels, and then try to extend the miles incrimentally. And definitely change your filter with every oil change because their straining capabilities exponentially diminishes. There is no substitute for a fresh filter ...

How much are you burning between changes? I'm pretty amazed at by the difference between the FSI and TSI with regards to fuel dilution and oil longevity. VW finally got their head out of their asses...


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

No to be contradictory, but the oil filter works better as it's in use for a while, filtering progressively smaller particles as it becomes loaded. Cut open a few used filters and you'll see the loading is MINIMAL. Many oem filters say "30,000km/2 years" right on them. Why, if they are good for 10k as prescribed in the manual, should they be changed at 5k with virtually no load in them at all? It seems obvious that 5k + 5k is equal to the 10k they are recommended for, either a full 10k or two 5k runs.


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## rhouse181 (Apr 13, 2008)

AudiSportA4 said:


> No to be contradictory, but the oil filter works better as it's in use for a while, filtering progressively smaller particles as it becomes loaded. Cut open a few used filters and you'll see the loading is MINIMAL. Many oem filters say "30,000km/2 years" right on them. Why, if they are good for 10k as prescribed in the manual, should they be changed at 5k with virtually no load in them at all? It seems obvious that 5k + 5k is equal to the 10k they are recommended for, either a full 10k or two 5k runs.


What is recommended in the manual is generally NOT what is best for your motor... simply a methodology for lowering the cost of ownership statistics published in Consumer Reports. But that is a completely different battle...

The notion that an "oil filter works better" as its used for awhile needs some refinement. Since the oil is being forced through the filter at pressure, it will always take the path of least resistance. The filter will filter the same size particles as designed, regardless of how "loaded" it may become... The filtration properties do not change. You just run the risk of lowering your oil pressure and making your oil pump work harder...


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

The filter pores consist of a range of different sized passages. As you described, the oil flows through the bigger pores, and as they become clogged, it diverts through progressive smaller passages, thus filtering more "efficiently" (the correct technical term) and capturing smaller and smaller particles, making the oil CLEANER. 

Since we are talking about using the filter well within it's recommended design criteria, it's hardly an issue. Like I said, 10k is 10k, be it one run or two 5k runs. I think draining out a sump of contaminated oil halfway through can only reduce the total amount of load that goes into the media. Again, a number of oems recommend this service. My Honda called for 10k on the oil and 20k on their new tiny lemon-sized filter. Flow is simply not an issue. 

Filters also have bypass valves, in the case of clogging or rather often in the case of extreme cold starts, where the media is completely bypassed due to the thickness of the oil (in the 1000s of cSt).

I completely understand that a lot of members are skeptical about a lot of what I'm posting. Car lube stuff is something people hold onto ideas and beliefs they accrue over their life, with very few data and reference points, almost all anecdotal. The thing is, many ideas and observations are dead wrong and become outdated. The 'ol Pennzoil sludge is one example. Mechanics are notoriously poorly informed about lubes, and this is who the average guy relies on.

As far as the issue at hand, someone PLEASE cut open a 5k filter and post pics. Newer engines run cleaner than old timers'. You find NOTHING trapped in the media. FSI guys should have some cartridge filters already available.


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## TechMeister (Jan 7, 2008)

That's why we actually test instead of listening to the foolishness posted by armchair fanbois on forums... 

A little information is dangerous as you demonstrate post after post. You are doing a great disservice to VW owners by posting your baseless beliefs that are not supported by actual scientific oil sequence testing by VW, Audi, Porsche, BMW, M-B, etc. :banghead:

If you ever actually have VW conducted oil test sequence data to support your beliefs, please post it.


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

I have posted it, you just don't understand it.

I do see a bit of excess lead in the VW 502 approved oil, compared to the universal averages

Care to comment on the actual subject? (bearing in mind this is a technical forum)


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## skier45 (Jul 27, 2009)

*another on and on and on*

a4 has never been wrong, just ask him.


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

Again, another post that has nothing to do with the subject.

I remind you it's a technical forum.


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

And technically you're really weird!


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

I can see how someone who actually knows what they are talking about seems weird to you.


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## skier45 (Jul 27, 2009)

*if you don't agree with a4 you're wrong*

technically i think you've blown a head gasket and are prone to overheating


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

He's knows a bunch of useless information and over thinks the most simple of items! :sly:

I think he has a huge inferiority complex.....it'd be sad really....if it wasn't so funny!!!! :laugh:


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

You misspelled "superiority".


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

:what: So.....you can't read or spell it would seem :sly:.......:laugh:


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

What grade are you in?


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

You're the one that can't read! :sly: :laugh:


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## skier45 (Jul 27, 2009)

*a4*

your lifters are pumped up and your valves are floating


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## gehr (Jan 28, 2004)

His distributor is spinning but there's no spark!


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## AudiSportA4 (Mar 3, 2002)

Pathetic.


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## daxter1987 (Mar 29, 2011)

*Love Motul*

I Agree that the recomendation is not always best for the engine. I work in Miami and I see that the dealer recomends Castrol and Mobil 1... which will never be better than euro synthetics which are the ones recomended in europe which have higher standards.

Here is more info about Motul
Motul 8100 x-cess 5w40 

This is Total, a not well known but great brand and worth to research product:
Total 5w30


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## 30th_edition (Jan 29, 2011)

Found this product, specifically for VW's.

Motul VW 505.01-502.00-505.00 5W40

http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store/product49.html


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