# Building an oval track car. Advice please



## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Hello all. This is my first post. 

Well like the title says, im building a car for oval track. Ive been into the stock car racing scene for 11 years now and have built a lot of cars, wrecked a lot of cars and built them again.

The past 6 seasons ive been in a peppy 4 cylinder class strictly made for Hondas and VW. The class is dominated by the Civic hatchback, which is what i used to run until now. In these 6 years, i recall maybe seeing 3 VW golfs. They always got a bad rep for being slow and cant keep up. But people always seem to bring cars with stock motors with like 400k on them smoking like a siv.

Ive taken it upon myself to prove people wrong and run a VW with the hondas. Ive picked up a 92 Golf, 1.8 8v. I can tell its going to take A LOT of work to make this thing keep up with my Honda, but i have faith.

The only problem is.....when it comes to these cars im as green as the grass outside. Searching these forums ive found some useful info, but these types of threads seem to be frowned upon. Id like to state i want to learn these cars, im not just asking what parts to buy and be done with it.

So my first question is, what makes these motors quick? Our class is denied use of turbos so its basically bolt ons and tuning. Where should i start? It seems to me that a taller cam would be beneficial on these motors, anyone have any experience with that? Or am i just wasting my goddamn time??

ANY advice is greatly appreciated. I wont have any seat time in the car until its built and ready to race.


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## kkkustom (Jun 5, 2007)

look through the 8V threads. NA motors like high compression and a properly built intake manifold. The intake manifold can be tuned to match the wavelenghts in the runners and plenum so they reach the open valves at the right time forcing the air in.


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

I did a search, didnt come up with a whole lot on the 8v but i will try again.

Do many people race these motors? Or is a swap normally done?


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## gitrdunn243 (Sep 29, 2010)

what is your compression rule? carb? fuel injection?


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

The compression ratio allowed for a vw is 8.2:1, but they never check, haha. The vw i have is a 2 barrel carb


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## gitrdunn243 (Sep 29, 2010)

Matt30 said:


> The compression ratio allowed for a vw is 8.2:1, but they never check, haha. The vw i have is a 2 barrel carb


oh wow, ha our comp rule is 11.4:1 lol and im up around 14:1 so dont think i can help ya, i also run a 2 bbl carb haha


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## GTLITE72 (Apr 16, 2007)

Matt: Really what needs to be done is find out the limits of the rules. 
1) Are you limited to only 8v 1.8 motor?
2) Are you allowed to run fuel injection?
3) Ignition system?
4) Carboration limitations?

There are plenty of bolt-on parts to make your your car move but the real trick with these motors is in the cylinder heads. Without the right cylinder head work done half the money you would spend on bolt on parts would be a waste of time. I road race a 1.8 8v rabbit in a fully prepaired class (drysump, port polish, h-beam rods, custome pistons, dual side draft carbs) and I'm getting 200HP at the crank and 175 at the wheels.


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

This is supposed to be "stock car" racing. But we all do little things here and there to bend the rules. We are only allowed the 1.8 motor in our class but rules do not specify 16v or 8v. Ignition system and everything has to remain stock, the rules state fuel injected entries are allowed but will be monitered.

I also have a quick question regarding the intake. On the top of the intake theres the mechanism that the throttle cable attaches to. This particular one has a small arm that appears to close some type of switch that im assuming kicks in the 2nd injector. Being unfamilliar with these engines, how is one to tell if this is engaging properly? symptoms?


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## GTLITE72 (Apr 16, 2007)

What you are refering to is the throttle body and the switch should be your "full throttle" switch. I don't have too much experience with FI cars but I think that switch cuts off the a/c compressor at full throttle.
It sounds like you could build an "improved touring" motor and have a very good running motor. IT is an SCCA class for cars with minimal prep to keep budgets down. You are allowed to do a european cam, .040 pistons, port and polish 1 inch into the head for match porting, header, remove emissions, a/c...etc.
Are the Honda guys running 16v motors?


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Yes, the hondas are running 16V. Most of them are 1.6 motors re-stamped to read 1.5. Cheaters, haha


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

GTLITE72 , since youve had this car on the track, maybe i can pick your brain on this.

Right now, the motor/transmission is bone stock. My home track that i will frequent is a 3/10 mile oval, so very short track.

If i were to take this motor/trans out onto the track bone stock, what kind of RPMs am i looking at in 2nd gear before i hit rev limiter? If i go with a higher lift cam, any suggestions on size?

I really wish i knew more on how these cars perform. Unfortunatly, ill be the only Vw in the 30+ car field so i have nobody local to bounce ideas off of :banghead:


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## bugaudiophile (Mar 14, 2010)

You should really talk to Flyinglizard. He has tons of experience on the subject and even wrote an e-book about it.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5027074-FWDracingguide-on-Ebay


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## Badaxx (Nov 15, 2009)

*some hints*

Swap to a 16V if you can jumps hp 20 if good running
get the 1.8 runs better torque ported and polished

If can make a short intake for the 16V boost torque 

If you can either engine run itbs if want carb

If not go with the G60 injection 

Okay big thing no one knows or checks the gti tranny bolts up and is geared better 

get a 1 mil steel gasket raises compresion .05

And take either head down and have milled down a tiny bit

And I'd check your regs on compresion that's turbo compresion ration engine would hardly be running I belive you said 8.5-1
8V runs 9.2-1
16V runs 10-1
Both engines run heigher compresion than that so if regs are real then would have to look up a good head gasket spacer

Were r u located I might be able to get you a little seat time to feal it out if in socal when I get back from training




Matt30 said:


> Hello all. This is my first post.
> 
> Well like the title says, im building a car for oval track. Ive been into the stock car racing scene for 11 years now and have built a lot of cars, wrecked a lot of cars and built them again.
> 
> ...


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## Badaxx (Nov 15, 2009)

*some hints*

Swap to a 16V if you can jumps hp 20 if good running
get the 1.8 runs better torque ported and polished

If can make a short intake for the 16V boost torque 

If you can either engine run itbs if want carb

If not go with the G60 injection 

Okay big thing no one knows or checks the gti tranny bolts up and is geared better 

get a 1 mil steel gasket raises compresion .05

And take either head down and have milled down a tiny bit

And I'd check your regs on compresion that's turbo compresion ration engine would hardly be running I belive you said 8.5-1
8V runs 9.2-1
16V runs 10-1
Both engines run heigher compresion than that so if regs are real then would have to look up a good head gasket spacer

And if aloud rebuild head light weight titanium lifter and springs raise rev. Limit 

You should see a constant 6700 rpm bone stock out of old 8V

Rebuild the right way can run up to 8s 

Were r u located I might be able to get you a little seat time to feal it out if in socal when I get back from training




Matt30 said:


> Hello all. This is my first post.
> 
> Well like the title says, im building a car for oval track. Ive been into the stock car racing scene for 11 years now and have built a lot of cars, wrecked a lot of cars and built them again.
> 
> ...


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Great hint on the transmission, thanks! Are the 8v and 16v 2 totally different engines? r will a 16v head fit on the same block as an 8v?


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## Badaxx (Nov 15, 2009)

the head will not bolt up that im aware of but might post that separate get a quick answer from experts


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## GTLITE72 (Apr 16, 2007)

I know a 8v head will fit on a 16v bottom end. Thats what I run because the 16v block has oil squirters that spray the bottom of the pistons for additional cooling. Do they post your rules? Can you post a link to them so we can read them and make suggestions?


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Ill copy/paste any rules that may be relevant 


INTENT 
 Scotia Speedworld officials will attempt to maintain a competitive field of cars while controlling the costs associated with 
fielding a car. Competitors will be discouraged from investing in any non-safety related items. Situations may arise 
where the intent rule is referenced. The division is open to any driver. 

EXHAUST 
 A single stock sized exhaust pipe (Minimum 2.5’ or have stock bolt bracket for resonator following stock pattern) must be 
attached to the stock manifold and remain the same size until it exits. Exhaust must point away from fuel tank. 

ENGINE, DRIVETRAIN AND COMPONENTS 
 Engine, transmission (automatic or standard), and rear end must remain stock. No 4-speed Honda manual 
transmissions allowed. No interchanging parts. Compression ratio will remain as produced for base model only. 
Example: (Maximum compression ratio as follows: Honda – 9.2:1, Volkswagen – 8.2:1, Subaru – 9.5:1. Maximum 
engine sizes as follows: Volkswagen 1.8 litre, Honda Civic 1.5 litre, and Subaru 1.8 litre. Other makes and models are 
subject to similar restrictions at the discretion of officials. If you are unsure, please call before building. Stock 
carburetor/fuel injection system for make and model only. Fuel injected ASIAN entries (Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Subaru, 
etc.) must have throttle bodied fuel injection only. German fuel injected entries (VW, etc.) will be monitored and subject to 
performance evaluations. Stock air intake systems. No K&N (or similar) filters. Stock filter must remain but paper can be 
hulled. 
 All steering components, shocks, struts, etc. must remain stock for vehicle. Wheelbase must remain the same on both 
sides. No tolerance. Ride height will remain the same side-to-side, front to back. Camber on all four wheels will be no 
more than 1.5º (+/-) post race. Stock four- wheel brakes. Starting and charging systems must be operational. Alternators 
must remain and be operating. Stock will be interpreted to mean regular sedan models, not sport, GT, Rally, or any other 
special edition or performance enhanced models. No alterations of any kind. 
 Cars considered by Scotia Speedworld officials to have altered components could be subject to rejection or 
disqualification based on the decision of officials. Any car that requires bracing or reinforcing to remain in competition 
may no longer be allowed to compete. 

RADIATORS 
 Radiators must fit in stock radiator cradle. No antifreeze or other cooling additives allowed. Water only. 

TIRES AND WHEELS 
 13 or 14 inch 65, 70, 75, 78, or 80 series radial tires only. No LT or anything other than “P” type allowed. All four tires 
must be same identical size. Sizes must be readable. Scotia Speedworld reserves the right to restrict tires with respect 
to price and availability to all competitors. Scotia Speedworld officials may claim any tire at any time, for $30. Tires will 
be part of the car claim. Cars are expected to race on used tires. The intent of the tire claim is to prevent people from 
buying new tires or to eliminate any unusual tires. Some entries could be limited to smaller sizes. 
 Stock passenger wheels (unmodified) only. Wheels must be stock size (width, height, and offset) for car. All 4 wheels 
must be same. Maximum wheel width is 6”. No aluminum, chrome or chrome reverses wheels. Aftermarket nuts 
recommended on both front wheels. 
 No chemical treating of tires (i.e. Compound Altering / Tire Softening). Tires will be subject to durometer testing. Failure to 
comply will lead to penalties/suspension.


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Why dont you run the 16V head?


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## GTLITE72 (Apr 16, 2007)

Matt, 
As the rules read I would suggest you find a MkII GTI with a 16V 1.8. Stock performance is going to be your best bet. 
The only hitch would be the compression ratio. I think that engine has much more than the 8:2 to 1. But as lonk 
as you can provide documentation that proves stock compression you should be good. for transmission I would 
see if you can find a 4 speed becaise it would have a better gear ratio for what you need. If you run a 5 speed 
there is a possibility you might have to shift (which would suck if you are running 50 laps and you have to shift 
twice a lap thats 100 chances to miss a shift and grenade the motor.) 
Suspension modifications: There is enough adjustment in the front suspension to get you camber set and you 
should be able to get camber shims to get the rear camber to where you need it. 
Engine wise I would run a stock 16v 1.8 until you find out where your competition runs. Get a VW motorsport 
oil pan with a built in windage tray so you don't run the pick-up dry. 
Let me know if there is anything else I can help out with.


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

It appears i mislead myself in the research.

I thought the 16V and the 8V were identical in appearence, and both SOHC. Upon doing so research it appears im going to have to keep the 8V head since our division only allows SOHC.

I was looking for gear ratios for the GTI transmission and couldnt find any. Anyone have a chart?


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## erty67 (Feb 23, 2010)

Matt30 said:


> It appears i mislead myself in the research.
> 
> I thought the 16V and the 8V were identical in appearence, and both SOHC. Upon doing so research it appears im going to have to keep the 8V head since our division only allows SOHC.
> 
> I was looking for gear ratios for the GTI transmission and couldnt find any. Anyone have a chart?


I run a MK1 at two local tracks with a 8v 1.8l. The car seems to be pretty competitive on the smaller track, the larger track I struggle at due to the long straight ways. I suggest you check the engine code and see what motor you have. this a great site for info...

http://a2resource.com/eandt/eandt.html


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

The project is put away for the winter. I havent had a chance to really start anything yet. On the bright side when i was cleaning the garbage left by the previous owner i found $4, a brand new tie tod end still in the box, a flathead screwdriver and a 6 disc CD changer with deck still in the boxes.

I was given the car for free, which is why i decided to take on challenging the hondas. So with the $40 it cost for fuel and the $4 i found, im into the project for only $36 Haha

I will update this thread over the winter when i get a chance to strip it down and begin body work. Floor pans will be first on the list


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## JarrettJettaVR6 (Jul 10, 2005)

not to take away from the good info and discussion in this thread, anywhere i can find info, pics, rules, etc. on this racing and where it's located? around me i haven't seen any honda/vw circle track stuff


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## ministock12 (Nov 13, 2010)

*also building vw mini stock*

hey guys
glad i found this thread i to am building a vw as a mini stock it's a 94 golf 2.0l.am thinkin of going with a 288 cam lighter flywheel and will a gti tranny fit this one as well? also am new to vws so i may have a lot of questions to. how diffrent are the 1.8 and the 2.0?

glad i found this good info


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## ministock12 (Nov 13, 2010)

*car constuction rules*

3. Protests must be filed with the Chief Steward within 30 minutes of the last event of the program.
C. COMPETING MODELS
1. Competition will be open to American and foreign vehicles, 104” stock wheelbase or less.
2. Year, make and model to be approved by Evergreen Speedway before being built or raced. Call for list of cars eligible for competition.
3. No turbo or supercharged motors.
4. No convertibles, pickups, or roadsters allowed.
5. No four-wheel drive or four wheel steering allowed
D. WEIGHT

1. Minimum weight (including driver) will be
a. 1.0 pound per cc rear wheel drive vehicles with solid rear differential and air cooled Volkswagens (i.e. bug), not to exceed 2,300 pounds
b. 1.1 pounds per cc front wheel drive vehicles, not to exceed 2,400 pounds
c. 1.1 pounds per cc rear wheel drive vehicles with independent rear suspension, not to exceed 2,400 pounds
d. 1.3 pounds per cc any vehicle with dual overhead cams, not to exceed 2,500 pounds
e. 2,500 pounds minimum for rotary engines. Gear rule or rev limiting device to limit maximum RPM’s will be required. To be determined. If you have a rotary, please contact the office in order to determine best/economical solution.
2. Minimum weight must be maintained at all times, including after race, without any weight being added to vehicle (i.e. fuel, water, oil). Body parts lost during competition may be reinstalled on the vehicle at weigh in.
3. Lead will be no lighter than five pounds per piece. No lead will be mounted outside the shell of the car. All lead to be securely fastened, painted white, and have the car number on each piece.
4. Maximum 56% left side weight
5. Car will have engine cc’s and car type (i.e. front wheel single cam 1.1pounds) on front fender to speed identity to Tech at car weigh in.
E. ENGINES
1. Only standard production four cylinder engines for make allowed. (Volkswagen to Volkswagen, Honda-to-Honda, etc.)
2. Maximum 2,400 cc original engine size with a .060 max overbore.
3. Rotary engines permitted with no internal modification and no port or polishing of intake and/or exhaust ports. Maximum of two rotaries
4. Must be mounted in stock location and centerline.
5. Block OEM only, modification allowed.
6. Aftermarket and modified internal parts allowed.
7. Engine size in cc posted on left (driver’s) front fender
F. CYLINDER HEAD
1. Cylinder head must be OEM for make of car. No racing heads allowed (i.e. Yates, Ford Motorsport, Cosworth, etc.)
2. Porting and polishing allowed on single cam (8 valve and 12 valve)
3. Porting and polishing NOT allowed on dual cam or 16 valve heads.
4. Four valve heads to be used only on correct cc motor as per factory
5. Any aftermarket or OEM valve train component allowed.
G. INTAKES
1. Modification allowed, aftermarket allowed, adaptors allowed. For rotary engines see engine rule 3
2. Carburetor adaptor: Maximum 2 ¼ inches allowed between mounting surface of carburetor and intake.
3. Only single throttle body allowed on fuel-injected cars.
H. CARBURETORS AND FUEL INJECTION
1. Any single two barrel carburetor allowed. Maximum 500 cfm
2. Choke horn may be removed.
3. Air cleaner mandatory at all time on carbureted cars, Must have metal top and bottom. F.I. cars aftermarket air box (K&N etc. ) allowed.
4. Air cooled Volkswagen may use any carburetor setup with up to 500 cfm.
5. Must have two return springs.
6. Only single throttle body allowed on fuel injected cars
7. OEM type ECU. Aftermarket PROM chip allowed to remove rev limiter.
8. ECU will be for make and family of manufacturer of car. (i.e. Honda ecu in Civic, VW ecu in Jetta, etc.) $200 Claim rule in effect. Track can claim any ECU.
9. Any aftermarket ECU will be subject to tech. Must not enhance performance from stock design. No remote, wireless or laptop tuning will be permitted. Will be sealed by tech. Seal must remain intact.
10. No download of data from ECU will be permitted. If having computer problems, a tech official must be present before scanner (ODB code fault type) is connected to ECU. Official will be told the what problem is, if one exists, and shown the part (TPS, MAP sensor etc.) that is causing the fault.
11. Data ports may be subject to seal by tech.
12. Fuel injection Throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, sensors, must remain unmodified. Must be OEM, matching make and model, for engine being used.
I. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1. Must have working starter at all times
2. Crank trigger ignition allowed.
3. A master on off switch must be located on the roll bar directly behind the driver’s seat and accessible from the outside, or on the dashboard just right of the center, and must be clearly labeled.
4. Battery must be mounted securely in an approved battery box.
5. Battery to be mounted behind driver in front of rear firewall and as far left as possible.
6. Battery and fuel pump will not be permitted in the fuel tank area.
7. Alternator optional.
8. No in-car adjustable timing
9. No magnetos allowed
10. Aftermarket distributors and MSD units allowed.
11. Only one coil allowed unless OEM
J. COOLING SYSTEM
1. Cars must carry an approved catch can or overflow tank; cannot be mounted in driver’s compartment.
2. No anti-freeze or ethylene glycol coolants allowed; water only
K. LUBRICATION
1. No graphite based oil.
2. Only pre-approved synthetic oil allowed.
3. No dry sum systems.
L. EXHAUST
1. Mufflers required at all times.
2. Any exhaust system mounted through car must be covered in a neat safe manner; subject to tech.
3. Must be securely mounted
4. Maximum noise level is92 DBA at 75 feet.
5. Exhaust must extend behind driver and exit outside of car
M. TRANSMISSION
1. OEM standard for make; adaptors allowed
2. Must have working first and reverse gear
3. Scatter shield mandatory ¼ inch steel or approved blanket.
4. Starter mounting position must remain in stock location.
5. Front wheel drive vehicles may not use posi-traction or limited slip differential.
N. REAR WHEEL DRIVE; DRIVE SHAFTS
1. Must be stock production for make, model and year.
2. Must have 2 U-shaped brackets no less than 2 inches wide and 1/4inch thick fastened to floor to keep drive shaft from coming dislodged.
3. Must be painted white.
O. FRAMES
1. Original frame rails required; no lightening, may be reinforced.
2. Rear firewall with a minimum of 20-gauge steel is required between driver’s compartment and the fuel cell.
3. Original floor pan required; must be complete in driver’s compartment.
4. Fender wells and strut towers may be removed.
5. No roll cage bars to the front bumper directly; must retain crush zone and are subject to tech.
P. SUSPENSION
1. Must be per manufacturer, make, model, and year.
2. Reinforcing allowed
3. May be lowered
4. Coil-overs allowed
5. Springs optional: must be per manufacturer type (i.e. leaf, coil, or torsion) make, model, and year.
6. Weight jacks, screw jacks, and adjustable sleeves allowed.
7. Sway bars optional, one piece only
8. Spindles and/or steering knuckles must be OEM or direct replacement
9. Control arms- modification allowed, aftermarket allowed. Must be mounted in stock location
10. Mounts may be slotted, adjustable and/or heavy duty
11. Shocks and/or struts must be steel body and similar to OEM, heavy duty allowed.
12. Pan hard bar allowed, may be adjustable.
13. Wheel base must be within plus or minus one inch.
Q. STEERING
1. Steering racks and steering boxes may not be moved or repositioned from stock OEM location
2. No Heim Joints
3. Steering column must be padded
R. BODIES
1. All cars must have complete bodies, trunk/deck lid, hoods, fenders, etc.
2. No car will be allowed to run more than one week with fenders lost in previous competition.
3. All bodies must be installed on frame as per manufactured, and in the stock location.
4. Hood may be modified to clear air cleaner. Not to be overdone and subject to Tech
5. Doors must be stock appearing; may be made of aluminum. All doors must be securely fastened.
6. Hood may be lightened and trimmed to allow aftermarket nosepiece. Hood will have rolled edges with no sharp edges.
7 Fenders may be altered for clearance only, no handmade fenders.
8. Front hoods must use hood pins, rear lids/trunks if operable must use hood pins.
9. Side skirts and air dams allowed. Front and rear spoilers allowed, must be securely fastened. No fiberglass.
10. Rear spoilers may not protrude farther than the outermost edge of the bumper. Spoilers cannot be wider than the width of the mounting surface and cannot impair rear vision.
11. Sunroofs must be removed and covered with minimum of .020-gauge steel. No aluminum.
S. BUMPERS 
1. Aftermarket allowed
2. Cannot extend outside of bodylines
3. Side nerf bars allowed: 1 ½ inch outer diameter tubing OR 1 inch by 2 inch rectangular tubing. Ends must be plugged and smooth, no jagged or rough edges; must not extend past outer edge of tires.
T. GLASS
1. Windshields mandatory; must be mounted in original position and within windshield cavity.
2. Windshield safety clips must be installed: four (2 top and 2 bottom) 3 inch by 1 inch by 1/8 inch bolted to car and extending two inches over windshield or, if using Lexan, windshield must be riveted in a safe manner, subject to tech.
3. Mirrors must be mounted within the bodylines of car.
4. Quarter and back windows may be replaced with Lexan; no glass.
5. Electric windshield wipers mandatory; must be in working condition.
6. All front glass must be removed except windshield.
U. ROLL BARS
1. Full roll cage constructed of 1 ½ inch steel seamless tubing. Minimum .095 wall thickness. No water pipe.
2. Minimum three crash bars on driver’s side, two on passenger side. Driver’s sidebars must extend into driver’s door cavity and touch door skin; at least one bar must extend into passenger side door cavity.
3. One windshield bar must run from top of cage to cowl area to prevent cave in. Must be 1 ½ inch roll bar material.
4. A minimum 1/4″ inspection hole in driver’s side vertical support.
5. All cars must have window net on driver’s side, must securely be fastened, subject to tech.
6. All main cage and driver’s sidebars door must be gusseted.
7. No offset roll cages. Cage legs must extend from floor to roof and conform to inside body contour. Subject to tech.
8. Roll cage workmanship and installation are subject to tech.
9. All cars must have 1/8″ steel plate welded onto or in between driver’s side door bars.
10. Reinforcement is allowed in back of front firewall.
11. Front hoop optional, but must remain within engine compartment. Subject to tech.
12. Outlaw Compact class vehicles with right side roll cage legs located at outside of right frame rail, will be grandfathered.
V. SEATS 
1. Aluminum racing seats mandatory.
2. No homemade seats allowed.
3. An approved headrest mandatory
4. Must be securely fastened to roll cage at top with two bolts and at bottom with four bolts.
5. It is recommended that all seats have padded rib protection and seat leg extensions on right and left sides.
W. SAFETY BELTS
1. A quick release lap belt no less than three inches wide is mandatory. Both ends of the lap belt must be fastened to the roll bar cage with high quality bolts no less than 3/8 inch in diameter.
2. Shoulder harness must be no less than three inches wide and must come from behind the driver’s seat. Where the harness crosses the roll cage, it must pass through a steel guide welded to the roll cage that will prevent the harness from sliding from side to side. Shoulder harness inertia reels cannot be used.
3. A center (crotch) belt must be securely mounted to the lower seat frame at the bottom and to the lap seat belt on top. Cannot be less than two inches wide.
4. Where the belt passes through the seat edges, it must have a grommet installed, be rolled, and/or padded to prevent cutting of the belt.
5. All seat belts and shoulder harnesses must connect at the lap belt with a NASCAR approved quick release buckle.
X. FUEL TANKS AND FUEL
1. Gasoline only. No methanol or exotic fuels of any kind. NOTE: NASCAR reserves the right to have all cars use the same brand of gasoline.
2. Electric fuel pumps allowed. If mounted in rear area, pump must be protected by a skid plate. Oil pressure override mandatory.
3. Fuel tank or fuel cell must be moved into trunk and be securely fastened in a safe manner as close to the firewall as possible; equal distance between frame rail. All tanks must be approved by tech and installed in a safe manner.
4. No aluminum fuel tanks, cells, or lines.
5. Maximum fuel capacity of 12 U.S. gallons.
6. Fuel vent line and filter neck must be equipped with check valve. No converted grease or oil containers or similar utensil may be used as a fuel tank.
7. Extra tanks, cells, or lines, concealed or otherwise are prohibited.
8. Fuel cell or tank and fuel cell container, if installed in a recessed well, must be secured with steel straps 1/8 inch by 1 ½ inch, not less than two lengthwise and two crosswise. Base frame must be made of 1 inch by 1-inch square tubing minimum, bolted flat to the floor pan with no spacing. Fuel cell container must be supported by three straps, minimum of 1 inch square tubing to frame equal distance from each end.
9. When mounting fuel cell or tank through trunk floor, an additional container of minimum 20-gauge steel must be securely mounted to floor of trunk for installation of fuel cell container. A 1-inch square tubing reinforcement frame must be welded to the floor pan from rail to rail.
10. Firewall of steel no less than .020 gauge thickness must be located between the trunk and the driver. Cover must be removable for tech inspection.
11. A pan of .020 gauge steel is mandatory when the fuel cell container or tank hangs down from the frame rails. This pan may be attached to the frame rails only and extend under the fuel cell container, but not beyond the rear frame cross member. Bottom of fuel cell container must have a minimum ground clearance of eight inches.
12. No fuel cooling cans or devices will be allowed.
13. When the fuel line runs through the right side of the driver’s compartment, it must be enclosed in steel.
14. No glass or plastic filters allowed.
Y. BRAKES 
1. All cars must have four-wheel brakes in operating condition. Tilton style dual master cylinder with brake bias allowed. A maximum of one proportioning valve on each car.
2. Rotors must be stock. No home built drilled rotors.
3. A maximum of two ducts or scoops per brake with a maximum three inch flexible hose to the brake; may be used for cooling.
4. No anti-lock brakes or components allowed.
Z. WHEELS
1. Eight-inch maximum wheel width.
2. One piece steel wheels only
3. No wheel spacers between wheel and hub.


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

My brother went to move my car not long ago, and he hooked the battery up backwards. Ugh. 

I did this with my Honda once in the dark by accident and it fried the ECU. Would the same thing happen with the VW? Or do they have a fuse somewhere before the ECU?


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Matt30 said:


> It appears i mislead myself in the research.
> 
> I thought the 16V and the 8V were identical in appearence, and both SOHC. Upon doing so research it appears im going to have to keep the 8V head since our division only allows SOHC.
> 
> I was looking for gear ratios for the GTI transmission and couldnt find any. Anyone have a chart?


Something doesnt make sense here, you said everyone running hondas are 16v. All 16v are dohc so you too would be allowed to run dohc? Seriously a stock/light modified 8v vw will never outrun a 16v honda. Go with a 16v and you will be more competitive


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

From 1988-1991, the D16a6 (1.6L) honda engine was 16V SOHC. 

The guys arent supposed to run them, but theyre identical in appearence to the 1.5L counterpart and its easy to re stamp the engine block. So im looking for any similar tricks that can fly under the radar with the VW


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## minicruzer (Nov 24, 2002)

bolt the 1.8 head onto a aba 2.0 block .
i run a rocco against some pretty though fords and hold my own .
crane 465 lift with 3something duration and stock springs on frt and rear cut down 2 coils .
go to www.watermeloncapitalspeedway.com and look at ministock .
i drive the r 2 k carand the little truck bodied rabbit .
we dont spend much on eng we uslly pick one out of the scrap yard for around 250 bucks .
cut the head (1.8 solids ) around 60 thou .
i shift out at 9500 most of the time .won the champinship last year .
Banks eace:


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Will it bolt right up? Or is there modification involved?


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## 88Golf8v (Apr 23, 2008)

hi my father used to build the motors for a few rabbits up here in mass about 15 years ago both cars were extremly competive both winning championships. reliable not really usally had to pull apart about every 2-3 weekends the rules were quite diffrent but if ur up for cheating then here ya go i dont not remeber everything sorry but the were 1.8 block sleaved to run 1.6 desiel pistons solid lifter head with major port and polish custom short runner intake with what i think was weber carb on a 4 to 1 header with a 1.5 ft collector the cam was stupid big exact specs have gone with my father to the grave along with a few more details they were also 4 spd cars ......the rules were pretty slack but the fastest cars were only like 3 seconds behind the prostocks a lap.


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## Matt30 (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, looks like my projects ship was sunk before it could leave the dock.

I pulled the car out yesterday and started ripping it apart. Upon further inspection it seems the frame is just a tad too cheesy for my likings and ive put a hault to the build.

Id like to thank everybody for their wicked information. Hopefully i can find another car worthy enough to build soon


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