# New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already.



## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

I guess this is my first post in the world of Fortitude. So, Hello all. I come from many mk2 Jettas, and am a mechanic at a local import only shop.
I just yesterday picked up a 1985 4000 S Quattro. Sight unseen, seven hours away. I'm the second owner, and have all maintenance records since '85.







And some memorabilia from the same time too.








Being my first delve into the world of these older Audi's, I have a few problems with this car that I'm trying to work out. If any of you have any insight, tips or tricks it'd be much appreciated until i get some footing.








First and most importantly, the car is stuck in 2nd gear. The PO had this problem some time ago, but the new motor and trans mounts fixed it for a while (or so I'm told) With the car off, it will not go into any gear, other than reverse. The motor and transmission mounts are new. I just checked the alignment of the shifter per the Bentley shop manual we have here at work. Still won't come out of second. Drained the trans/gear oil, got just about 1.5qt's out of it. Dark and obviously old, but not metallic. judging from the case condition, it doesn't look like anyone had changed it in some time, if ever. 
I've called Shokan Audi recycling, we use them very often through work, and I can get a 60k mile identical transmission for $650. I'd really try to make the original one work, but if worse comes to worse, that is plan B.
I'm going to refill with fresh fluid, and see if it does anything, but anyone have any other ideas?
Esthetically, the car's in good shape, some little dings and dents, and peeling clear, but no major rust. Rockers, and pinch welds are nice and straight. All the power options work, and the interior is very clean for it's age.
My hope is to restore this car back to, or better than it's former glory. A build/restoration thread will be in the works as soon as the transmission issue is sorted out. 
Show some love 4k forum. http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

Oh yeah:


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

Awesome car. i have an '84 (on cover currently with an A4 S-line), but unfortunately I have no advice on the tranny issue. Sorry. Welcome to the forum.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. ([email protected])*

Thanks! After more poking at it tonight I'm 90% sure it needs a new tranny or I have to pull this one apart and cross my fingers that whatever broke is still available from the dealer. 
I just looked at the article, beautiful car you have sir. I drove this one right past you (Hershey) on a trailer yesterday when I picked it up. Got it in Felton, PA. 7 hour drive in a borrowed truck, borrowed rabbit racecar trailer, and it was the first time I'd ever driven anything with a trailer attached. Let alone doing for 400 miles.


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

Uneventful drive? 
Sorry to hear it might require replacement.... maybe good time for a turbo swap.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. ([email protected])*

Yes, drive was uneventful. So much nicer to drive with the car on the trailer. The empty trailer on the way down sucked.
Turbo swap is just not in the budget now. Later down the road, maybe. I kinda want to keep it as OE as possible.
Have tons of drivetrain maintenance to do after I got it able to drive in something other than second gear.


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

I'm of similar mind. I had a roach (now a project car) that I practically got for free which was going to be restored. Restoring a 4K that extensively though is a losing proposition financially so when I found this pristine one I pounced. He's done an H4 upgrade and I've got some Cibies so I may install those. I have a set of Fuchs rally 5-spokers but I'd have to convert to 5-lug to do that. I have more, even had a 200 20V donor car but it's just so pristine and there are so few of these around anymore that I'm really apprehensive about doing that stuff. The parts remain on the shelf... the 20V donor sold.


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_
I've called Shokan Audi recycling, we use them very often through work, and I can get a 60k mile identical transmission for $650. I'd really try to make the original one work, but if worse comes to worse, that is plan B.


$hoken indeed. The transmissions in these cars almost never break. Chances are you can find one easily in a junkyard for way less.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (NJRoadfan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NJRoadfan* »_The transmissions in these cars almost never break. Chances are you can find one easily in a junkyard for way less.

So I've heard. Which is why I was hoping it didn't need it. Seems this is not the case. According to the Bentley, it was about a quart low on gear oil.
And I seem to have stumbled upon (very thankfully) another whole car that was damaged by a roof collapse. Going to buy it and use it as a donor basically. We'll see how it pans out though.


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

If you are going to pull the trans, might as well have a Sachs clutch kit ready along with a new clutch master and slave cylinder. Much easier to do "while you are in there". Check the rear diff for leaks too, the seals sometimes go on those too.


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## blewtoon (Dec 25, 2006)

It would be a good time to go for the firewall brace upgrade. I think 034 has them. It prevents the firewall from flexing behind the clutch master cylender. something these cars are known for as the age


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (NJRoadfan)*

Thanks for the things to look for. Has a new clutch master in it, not sure about clutch, I'll dig through the paperwork and try to find out.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

nice looking car dude http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Pre95 (Oct 8, 2008)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_Thanks for the things to look for. Has a new clutch master in it, not sure about clutch, I'll dig through the paperwork and try to find out.

Well, weather you do the clutch or not, do yourself a huge favor and definitely do the clutch slave. Huge PITA getting the roll pin out while the trans is in the car. Also, i opted to replace the roll pin with a nut & bolt to avoid loosing anymore taps in the future. Clean car!


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (Pre95)*

The parts Audi I've been trying to buy is going terrible. The guy (who is on this forum) is giving me the super-run-around with the car. First tells me it's mine, and a price, and that he'd deliver for another $100. When i contacted him 3 days later to tell him I have the money and a truck and trailer to get it, he tells me it's sold to someone else.....what the fook guy?! Way to back out of an agreement.
So I've started to price out all the things I'm going to be needing to get the car road legal....lots.
Started hard yesterday when I went to bring it into the shop to check again on what else it was going to need. Once I got it running, I checked the condition of the tune stuff. I was already aware the car has a very old fuel filter and air filter. Checked cap and rotor condition, center post on inside of distributor cap was missing, worn all the way to non-existence.







Rotor insulation/epoxy was falling apart, and had carbon track marks all over it.
Replaced cap and rotor and ignition wires (with loom) with new OE Bosch parts, they even came with vintage 5-10 year old dust on them.







Guys our parts dept. doesn't sell this stuff often....







They were so old they pre-dated the inventory system on the computers. haha
I HATE bosch spark plugs so the NGK triple electrode equivalents ( BP6ET ) went in. All of the recessed spark plug holes had corroded to the plugs, so it took a while and quite a bit of patience and effort to get them all out. Chased all the holes with a thread cleaning tap, all good. 
Replaced any and all the vacuum lines I could find in the engine bay. Found a couple broken hard plastic lines, and repaired. Removed, and cleaned the intake boot and throttle body. Replaced the idle-screw o-ring with new viton equivalent ( I think it came from leftover parts of a VW diesel injection pump rebuild kit i had). Cleaned the CIS lift plate.
Still idling a little high, but I didn't spend a ton of time looking into it.
When running, and both sliders are in the vent position, I only get heat out of the outermost vents, the dual-center vent only blows COLD air. Regardless of heater control position. Any ideas guys? I'm unfamiliar with the design of the HVAC systems in these cars.
Bentley manual is on the way.`








[/vent & update]


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## danthemanohhyea (Jun 7, 2005)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

My center vent only blows cold air as well.. I think thats just how it is, thats why it has a lever on it to open and close the vent.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (danthemanohhyea)*


_Quote, originally posted by *danthemanohhyea* »_My center vent only blows cold air as well.. I think thats just how it is, thats why it has a lever on it to open and close the vent.









Bentley manual has no mention of it, and I can't tell just looking at the exploded views of the HVAC in ETKA. Oh well.
Got the rear spoiler all cleaned up, somewhere along the way the PO painted it a not-even-close-to-matching silver. But didn't clean any of the old paint off before doing so....it was an ugly mess. Got it down to the foam material with some 220 sandpaper on a D.A.
The center taillight section on the trunk lid was broken on the left side, some pieces of the inner reflector were superglued in place, while the section that houses the bulbs looked to have been RTV (or similar) attached. Found a new light section, but wanted to double check the part numbers. Removed the stuff on my trunk, expecting to find rust and a mess, but found something entirely different. It seems that whomever fixed the light when it was broken originally, couldn't find a full inner 4k light housing, so they used a (what im guessing) is a inner light housing from a Audi 5000, and just trimmed the inner section to match as closely as possible. At any rate, the "new" correct piece it on the way from Idaho (thank you Von-Klink). I do kinda like the way the rear looks without the inner section though....







































Coming from mk2 jettas, the foam black spoiler is more my aesthetic style, over the painted anyways.








I hate the steering wheels of this vintage, Audi and VW, so off with it, and on with a vintage correct MOMO wheel. Well worn, of course.


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

Going to repaint the spoiler? I wonder ho much flex agent you use on foamish plastic. Mine's got a few cracks in it but nothing major so I've thus far not messed with it. I do have a spare from my parts car thought that I could repaint. I'd be curious to see how it goes for you.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. ([email protected])*

I'm not going to repaint it, I'm going to try and just condition the foamy material. I like the natural foam look.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*

the center vents are for outside air. there used to be a write up on how to change the center vents to the hvac system. I'll keep looking for it.
my rear spoiler had some paint bubbling on it and my friend's wife thought she would help me out by picking at it and peeling it. I now need to remove it from the car and finish taking all the paint off.
I would also agree these cars look better without the center section of lights


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (MFZERO)*

Broken transmission replaced. After some looking through the Bentley, I think that one of the pins that holds the 2nd gear shift fork to the linkage inside the case, may have broken. Or a fork itself, when it was in 2nd gear. Internally, permanently stuck in 2nd.







Replaced the bad (seized) throw out bearing while I had it out. Clutch was in good shape so I left it alone. In the case that it goes bad, the motor is coming out. Getting the transmission in with the downpipe still attached was a royal pain in the ass.
Old one out, and on the floor.








Then:








Four new Meyle control arms, with OE bushings. All new ball joints, and not pictured, both rear differential mounts.
Remains of the differential mount, and the surprise passengers side transmission mount bracket, that was broken and "kinda" JBwelded/Epoxied back together....
















Diagnosed the inoperative rear differential lock, frozen rust solid clevis/ actuator joint. All cleaned up, replaced pin with small bolt and lock nuts. Replaced vacuum lines to, and tested actuator.








Not so simple for the front one though. Due to rust, and time, the actuator operation isn't smooth. Vacuum diaphragm is leaking, in the "engage" direction, and therefore not pulling the rod all the way.







Need a new one, and man these suckers are expensive new....















This just showed up today:








Containing........








H&R Springs, and a full set of Bilstein Sport struts.







Solves the broken front left spring pretty well. Will install when the box from 034Motorsports arrives.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*FV-QR*

nice!


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## [email protected] (Apr 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (MFZERO)*

Please post pics of the ride height when you get that stuff in. BTW, where'd you get the control arms and (more importantly) the bushings?


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*

Will post before and after height photos. I'm thinking that after the springs settle, I may have a machinist friend make up some spacers, to get the car almost back to stock ride height. 1-2" spacers I'm thinking. We'll see though, as the spacers will increase the spring rate....could make it a rough ride.... ::shrug::
I bought the control arms with the inner bushings and the bushings for the sway bar already installed, they came as a "loaded" assembly...they were, however, not cheap.


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_Please post pics of the ride height when you get that stuff in. BTW, where'd you get the control arms and (more importantly) the bushings?

New control arms come with new bushings pre-installed, even for the sway bar end links.
The diff locks actuators are expensive from Audi. Folks were able to use cheap Mercedes door lock servos to replace them. Info here: http://www.audifans.com/piperm....html


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: New Audi owner, '85 4kq, second owner. I love it already. (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_
Remains of the differential mount, and the surprise passengers side transmission mount bracket, that was broken and "kinda" JBwelded/Epoxied back together....

















I broke that side mount when I was replacing the stock diff bushings with A4 transmission mounts. I bought one from the dealer.







damn discontinued parts.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (NJRoadfan)*

I'm going to try to have a huge update later tonight, haven't had the time to sit down and type it out though.
But FWIW:

_Quote, originally posted by *NJRoadfan* »_The diff locks actuators are expensive from Audi. Folks were able to use cheap Mercedes door lock servos to replace them. Info here: http://www.audifans.com/piperm....html 

This _*DOES*_ in fact, work. Requires some tweaking, as one might expect, but is cheap, and functional. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (secondgen)*

It was snowing, so pardon the poor before pictures. Keep in mind, also, that the LF coil spring is missing the top 2 coils (broken spring).
















All the struts in this car were completely blown. LF was OE, and leaking all over creation. RF and RR were aftermarket (boge maybe?), not leaking, but bouncy and no rebound what-so-ever. LR was in similar condition to the LF, but not OE. All the struts came out without a hitch, cleaned and anti-seized all threads. Trickiest part was taking the rear seat out.








Old rear comparo to the new Bilstein Sport
















































Rear strut assembled with H&R and 034's track density strut mounts.








After, all new suspension in this rig now!







This is right after I was done, so this is UNSETTLED.
















As you can see from the plate, I took the car home with me that night, to try and get some new gas in the tank. Also was the FIRST time i'd driven the car further than in a parking lot, so I wanted to feel/see/hear what else may need to be fixed before I try to get it inspected and on the road.
Filled up with 93 on the way home. Fuel pump still very loud, but a new one is on the way. Heavy lag/delay with snap throttle, likely due to the what looks to be original fuel filter. Noticed on the drive that the up-shift indicator light was acting all wonkey, and that even with the differential locks both in the OFF postition, shifting into fifth, was turning the front diff indicator light on....














Wired the switches backwards. Easy fix, had to drop the exhaust to replace the front cat/downpipe donut gasket anyways.
Addressed the inoperative front differential lock at the same time. Bit the bullet and ordered a W123 chassis Mercedes vacuum door lock actuator. Cheapest I found was through RM-Automotive online, out of Colorado. Was $34 shipped. Had it in 2 days. Some tweaking was necessary, and only 4 of the 6 mounting holes line up.
























Some modification to the linkage, test fitted to my old transmission and used a hand vacuum pump to test. Works beautifully. Linkage may look a little haggard, but it's more rubust and sturdy than you'd think. Could do without the ziptie, but an extra piece of security is nice.
































Installed the 034 short shifter @ about 15% reduction, all nice and lubed up and re-aligned the linkage. Derlin shift knob from Product Innovations LLC in CT. Feels so nice.








Then yesterday, I reblackened the rear bumper trim. Used a heatgun, has worked very well, in the past with my MK2 jetta's, and lasts longer than any of the other options I've heard of or tried.
























Just have to move along, and switch sides of the car, to let sections cool. 
After the bumper, and suspension, having settled for half a week. Rear control arms parallel to floor. Front still a little too high to be parallel. Stance looks silly, typical VAG ass-sag. May have 1/2-1" spacers made for the rear.....I'll let it settle for a while longer though before I rip all that back out again.























That's all for now, until i build the light bar, and make a relayed headlight harness.
http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


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## MikeHock (Dec 9, 2004)

Looks good to me. Mine settled good after a few weeks and a fresh alignment. Pretty cool about the diff lock actuator too. Looks like a nice substitute for the $$ Audi piece.
Nice work!


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## 2.slowduo (Sep 17, 2008)

*Re: (MikeHock)*

I hate your stance!
I'm gonna pull it apart and cut the shizle out of your springs








1 inch of strut travel ftw








looks great jermey
I always wanted a 4kq


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_










Hmm, looks like it works without modification then. The instructions said to pull off the stock Benz plastic "hook", thread the rod and install the white plastic piece off of the Audi part. It looks like the old vacuum piece can be saved. Looks like it just needs a new rubber diaphragm.
My car is in dire need of a suspension overhauled. Too bad I don't have a nice lift and workspace to make it happen fast or anytime soon.


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## ralleyquattro (Sep 1, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (NJRoadfan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NJRoadfan* »_
Hmm, looks like it works without modification then. The instructions said to pull off the stock Benz plastic "hook", thread the rod and install the white plastic piece off of the Audi part. It looks like the old vacuum piece can be saved. Looks like it just needs a new rubber diaphragm.
My car is in dire need of a suspension overhauled. Too bad I don't have a nice lift and workspace to make it happen fast or anytime soon.









New style center diff actuators can be done as above, but threading would be even better (reuse the old clip).
All other applications threading required (rear diffs and old style bowden cable applications)
Hope this helps.


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## jonny_breakz (Jul 26, 2002)

*Re: (2.slowduo)*

Coming along nice ..
regarding the bumper and heat gun, what else did you do? just heating the plastic brought the color back? How long before you notice it turning grey again? Then just repeat?


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## Ktownboostn (Apr 1, 2009)

looking good man ! Curious bout the heat gun on plastic aswell.
The 034 shifter is nice ? Looking to get myself one. Had the JHM Solid one in my Coupe Quattro and it was amazing.. so i can only imagine this one is nice


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## BrewDude (Nov 3, 2000)

*Re: (Ktownboostn)*

Intently watching this...gave me some guidance and hope for my 4K that's been sitting in the garage untouched for 4 months until last weekend, at which time I got the rear brakes back together. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (jonny_breakz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jonny_breakz* »_
regarding the bumper and heat gun, what else did you do? just heating the plastic brought the color back? How long before you notice it turning grey again? Then just repeat?

Nothing else. Didn't even wash the car.







In my defense, the car was pretty clean already. Heat just brings the resin in the plastic back out. How long it lasts on this specific bumper is yet to be determined. On my mk2's though, it would last over a year before it was noticeably fading again. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

_Quote, originally posted by *Ktownboostn* »_The 034 shifter is nice ?

It feels great at all reductions less than about 15%. On mine, at least anything above that, gets clunky and doesn't feel as crisp. I'd prefer the slightly longer throw, with a very positive "yes it's in gear" feeling. It could be that this cars linkage is just beat and/or still not aligned 100%. I can't even find a dealership in the area that has the tool that Audi specs in the Bentley to do the proper alignment.








Glad I can maybe motivate others to put work into their cars. This is a real blast to drive.
In update news:
I put a new (less used) fuel pump and accumulator into the car on Friday. Fixing all the broken or missing rubber isolators and bent or missing bracketry. Took a while since it was such a mess of zipties and spliced rubber sections. Made new plastic lines (reusing the old fittings) to and from the pump to accumulator and the accu. to a new Bosch fuel filter. Also bent, flared and installed new hard steel lines from the filter to the next good section of factory line. Fixing the half-assed-ghetto dual clamped rubber hose section that was going over the driveshaft and exhaust. *cringes* Same goes for the return line to the tank. Will try to take pictures next time it's up on the lift. Took me 6 hours total. But the nice quiet pump and safer feeling inside was worth the trouble and time. Need to locate and order a new pre-pump filter. Could go NAPA-Generic, but I think if I can, I'll go the OE route.
Also installed my Thule roofrack, and snowboard attachment. In preparation for the storm that never arrived.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_
Glad I can maybe motivate others to put work into their cars. This is a real blast to drive.









to you sir. my to do list is growing thanks to you


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_
Need to locate and order a new pre-pump filter. Could go NAPA-Generic, but I think if I can, I'll go the OE route.


Good luck with that. The OEM Audi part ( 811 201 511 D ) recently went NLA and appears to have been made by a company called Kayser. The aftermarket parts look like a near exact clone, minus the VW/Audi logo.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (NJRoadfan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NJRoadfan* »_
Good luck with that. The OEM Audi part ( 811 201 511 D ) recently went NLA and appears to have been made by a company called Kayser. The aftermarket parts look like a near exact clone, minus the VW/Audi logo.

The NAPA gold one, in fact does look almost identical. Less the mounting tab, like the OE one has.
And you're right, OE is NLA.








NAPA Gold one it is...have to get creative with how to mount it. Don't want it just dangling under there.


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: (secondgen)*

This looks like it will work. http://www.neweggmall.com/Prod....html


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (NJRoadfan)*

Hm, the one I looked at at the local NAPA, didn't have that tab. Older part maybe? That website's price is cheaper too.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks!


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (secondgen)*

So, still having issues with the front end on this thing. After the alignment, and all new parts, when going into a right hand corner, the steering wheel will "thump" to the right, momentarily causing the steering wheels to go in the opposite direction of the turn. A very unsettling feeling. I also occasionally, over bumps hear/feel another thud. If this is related or the same thing I have yet to find out. Could be dealing with different issues. 
After much debate with fellow mechanics and car guys with far more experience with these older Audi's, I've come to 2 possible causes.
The steering rack main shaft is bowed in the middle, and when loaded, in a corner, snaps or skips over a tooth, causing both the front wheels to shift. 
or
The sub frame bushings are so badly worn, that the whole sub frame is shifting. Since damn near everything on the front of this car is attached to said sub frame the thud noise/feeling is VERY distinct and loud.
Cheapest solution at the moment is the sub frame bushings. Especially since I do need to change the oil pan (porous and leaking), and these sub frame bushings are (as I'm told) known to go bad and cause thumps. Apparently the shop I work at used to change the rear sub frame bushings a LOT, back before my time. 
The decision then becomes, which bushings to install. I do drive very....er...."spiritedly" and I do enjoy "rally" type driving around a local farm area. 
-I could go with OE, and risk them wearing out. Which as I imagine, this wouldn't be a job I want to do multiple times in my ownership. Benefit would be that they will be the quietest and ride the nicest.
--I could go with the 034 billet aluminum stock replacement style ones. Not having to worry about subframe shift and likely a one time change deal. Downside, ride quality and noise.
---034's offset drilled aluminum ones, resulting in 2 options for some added caster, ability to reduce some static camber, quicker turn in, and more tire on the road upon exit of a corner at speed. Downside equal to the center drilled 034 option, but also more work, as then the motor/trans mounts will have to be tweaked, as the whole sub frame would now sit farther forward.
*Opinions encouraged.*
The above is still being mulled over in my head, so I have some time to decide. I still haven't called 034 to discuss it with them, and try to get more detail of the work involved with the offset bushings. They are the option that I would ultimately really like.
Secondly, the brake pressure regulator below my master cylinder has sprung a leak. Typically, since I can see where it's leaking from, and it doesn't look all that complicated, I'd pull it apart, source a similar seal to the one that's leaking, and fix it. But.....at the moment my other car is out of operation. Taking this one off the road to do so, even if possible, would be time without a car. Not happening. Called around to salvage (shokan, force5, and others) looking for one. Either nobody has one, or they won't sell one due to it being a "safety feature" and could cause legal issues should it fail. OE from the dealer I was quoted at over $225. (boo hiss) Our parts dept can special order one, non-OE, for almost half that price. I have one on the way.
That will be the next project, and I'm guessing not all the brake lines will be cooperating, so some new lines somewhere in there will probably be happening as well.
I mentioned before that I re-built the fuel pump area, with the new rubber isolators and a bunch of lines. Here's the pictures:
















Could be prettier with the hard lines, but without taking half the back of the car apart to get the lines perfect, this was the best I came up with. Tried to keep it as OE looking as possible, attempting to restore it back to what it would have originally looked like. Which wasn't easy, especially since I had no idea what OE looked like. The previous "fix" was super-hack-status. Oh, and 5/16" line is a PITA.
All for now. Happy New Year to all. Be safe.


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## danthemanohhyea (Jun 7, 2005)

I have a similar thud in my steering column, my subframe mounts are very-much-so on their way out, so that might be what needs replacing! I know I'll go the route of OEM bushings as I want to enjoy my ride quality on days where I want comfort..
On another note, I wouldn't suppose you'd be able and willing to get a photo(s) of your exhaust? I've got a very non-stock exhaust on my 4kq (side exit before the rear wheels) and I want to fab up my own exhaust.. But I have no idea what it's "supposed" to look like, or where the mufflers are supposed to go.


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## danthemanohhyea (Jun 7, 2005)

Oh and I relayed my headlights the other day, it made a big difference if your lights suck.. However if you've got the stock US lights, the beam pattern still sucks unfortunately.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (danthemanohhyea)*

Just been driving the car. Brake warning light came on the other day, turns out the brake pressure valve below the master cylinder is leaking. One is on the way from the good folks at GermanAutoParts. 
OXS warning light came on as well, and the reset procedure via the Bentley manual wasn't working. So, neutered (removed bulb from cluster.) 
Taking the car on it's longest trip in my ownership this weekend. Going to visit a friend in MD, hoping all goes well, should be about a 900 mile round trip. Good thing my cruise control works.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: (secondgen)*

good luck dude http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: (MFZERO)*

Really gotta give it to the guys at GAP, ordered the regulator yesterday at 4:45PM, and had it first thing this morning.







http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And it's in.








Removed all the caliper bleeders, redrilled all the holes to 1/16" to assist in faster, , more efficient bleeding. Then proceeded to completely flush the brake and clutch with new DOT4 fluid with my motive bleeder. I should've taken a picture of the old fluid.







http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif So much air out of the RR caliper! And the clutch fluid looked like mud.
Brake and clutch pedal feel amazing now.








Put on my shifter extension. With the O34 short shifter @ about 15-20%, the throw was notchy and kinda hard at stock height. Now, with the extension, the throw is slightly less than stock, and 4" taller. Feels so nice.
















And like anyone with one of these cars knows, the stock US headlights, unrelayed, suck balls. My quick fix is this: Lightbar mounting to bumper mount holes, with what will eventually be probably 6 hella lights. Just a set of old-style fluted lens'd 500's for now....








Looking for a good condition set of Euro's.....


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*FV-QR*

awesome!


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## sr20de (Jul 29, 2008)

*Re: FV-QR (MFZERO)*

Good build thread. It's too bad the new suspension didn't really lower it all that much.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (sr20de)*

Didn't want it lowered much at all anyways. If I wanted to stuff it, I'd have bought or made up a set of coils, or gone to the 2-piece knuckle/strut style from a CQ.
Recently, re-replaced the out cluster bulbs with a set of wide-angle LEDs. Dome, trunk and plate lights as well. You don't appreciate a dome light until there's 66 lumens coming out of it.















Week or so ago I removed the snub mount to clean it up. Turned into quite the project. The A/c compressor through-bolt that passes through the snub mount bracket seized so spent an hour tearing the front end off, headlight out in order to get access to the a/c lines on the top of the compressor off. Ugh. had to cut the through bolt w/ a sawzall and the bracket suffered a little. Left the A/c out to save some weight. Think the clutch on the compressor is bad anyways, made a ton of noise when it had a belt on it.
This past weekend did the timing belt, valve cover gasket (with the updated full rubber version), p/s belt, waterpump, and thermostat. Turns out the 80* t-stat that was in the car, is likely why my heat sucked so much. Cooling system had a hell of an air bubble in it as well. runs ten-fold better now, and the temp stays consistent. No longer fluctuation all over the gauge with intermittent heat.








Gas mileage also improving. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Next up.......ditching this exhaust.....


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## NJRoadfan (Sep 16, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (secondgen)*


_Quote, originally posted by *secondgen* »_
Next up.......ditching this exhaust.....









Thankfully you have a lift, otherwise exhaust work on these cars without one =







. First hand experience.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

*Re: FV-QR (NJRoadfan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *NJRoadfan* »_
Thankfully you have a lift, otherwise exhaust work on these cars without one =







. First hand experience.
I'll second that


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (MFZERO)*

So, time to update I suppose.
Was getting water in the car, so redid both F&R passengers vapor barriers. No dice, still was getting water in on the passengers side floor. Pulled most of the interior out, removed all the soaked moldy padding from under the carpet, and tried to isolate where the water was coming from. Door seals, moved the door striker more in, in an attempt to make the door seal a little better. Worked so-so. We'll see how it holds up in the next big rain we get.
Ordered, and haven't installed yet, a new sunroof seal. Bought on Ebay from a dealer in Germany. Showed up remarkably fast! And was cheaper than anywhere I could find through US connections.








And then, *finally*, H4's! Maybe I'll be able to see now!








More soon, as I'll have to build a relayed headlight harness.


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## JettaSTR4 (Jan 7, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (secondgen)*

Ive got those same lights with 80w/100W hella bulbs and the difference is amazing. the hella 500's help quite a bit too


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (JettaSTR4)*

Good to know. Building a 10 ga. relayed harness for it this weekend. Hella 90/130 bulbs too.


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## MikeHock (Dec 9, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (secondgen)*

I had the H4's too on my 4ktq, loved them! I had bright bulbs similar to those, I think they were 100/130w, but I cant remember exactly. 
You will enjoy them.


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

So, the odometer finally died. I've seen this coming for a while now.  137,699

Bought a spare set of stock wheels and had them cleaned up and powder-coated black. I kinda like them better black.










The front flange of the cat finally decided to fall apart beyond repair. My solution:




























...I'd advise anyone who values their hearing and license to not do this. Unless you're already deaf and have a very close relationship with all the police in your area. 2.5" Stainless Steel downpipe-back. Welded SS V-band to the end of the stock down pipe, replacing the stock 3 bolt rubbish. Another 2.5" SS V-band in the same location as the stock rear flange. SS 3/8" rod hangers. And a center-in offset-out Borla Pro-XS muffler. It's so god damn loud I don't even want to drive it. Just bought a Magnaflow spun-cat to put in the stock location, in hopes that it tones the noise down a little bit. Sound-wise, I'd compare it to a really pissed of VR with some raspy crackling. :thumbup:

I'll update with a video at some point when I get the noise to a more manageable level. :thumbup::laugh:


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## Ktownboostn (Apr 1, 2009)

bah, she is probably slient... compared to 3" turbo back straight pipe to side dump !
Nice looking system though ! Cant wait to hear it


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

Well.......it's better.....not great, but better. Much happier now that it's got a new oxygen sensor in it. The cat helped tone the loud initial rasp out. Still a little louder than I'd like. General consensus from the guys I work with is that it sounds good. 

But a new issue has arisen. Seems that the SS has found a resonant frequency that makes each pulse of the exhaust "ping". Kind of the noise you'd get from tapping the side of a crystal glass. So i need to find a way to dumb it down. An OE exhaust trick is coming to mind. Maybe welding a little rubber isolated weight to the end of the straight section under the tunnel...

Next up, more lights. Relaying the H4's. A shift boot, and maybe some CQ wheels.


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## MFZERO (Mar 13, 2002)

that's pretty much what I wanted to do with the exhaust on my car. looks good, shame about the sound though.

great work sir! Keep it up :beer: :thumbup:


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## Gravzzy (Jan 6, 2011)

*4KQ front coil spring wanted*

Hi,

If you want to sell the stock front coil spring that wasn't broken let me know.

By the way, your ride is becoming to be quite an interesting project. I hope I'd have enough time and money to do the same thing with mine...


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

Whoa, back from the dead! People still reading this dust-pile?!

I've just been driving the car. I gotta say it has been the most reliable car I've owned in recent history. 

Had to replace the brushes in the alternator about a month ago. Other than that the car's been holding up remarkably well.

The exhaust...yea....it needs another muffler. The loud rumble was great for a couple weeks, but now I just find it obnoxious. Chalk it up to me just getting older and not liking the attention anymore.
Don't get me wrong it sounds ok, but I'd really like to get some of the "rasp/cackle" out of the sound. I think another muffler may simmer it down a little bit, or at least I hope.... problem is finding a muffler that will fit. I'd really love a 14" cased borla with a same-side offset in-offset out. But alas, they don't exist.

Next best thing that I can find that will fit the space constraints, without hanging down below the car too much is on of these guys:

Hushpower HP-2









I think that if the 2" inlet and outlet's are lopped off, I will be able to fit the full-size one where I want it, if not, a shorty version will most definitely fit.


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## danthemanohhyea (Jun 7, 2005)

Just curious where you sourced the sunroof seal from? Cheapest I could finds was $85 on ebay..

Also, what about the rubber mounts for all the fuel pump/filter area? All of mine are broken and everything is just bobbing around under there. I have the part numbers, but I have a hard time shelling out ~$20 per bushing at the dealer (and I work at a VW dealer..  )


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

I got mine off ebay. About that same price, and it came from over-seas. Had it in less than a week. pretty easy to install as well.

The rubber mounts we had here at work. They are not technically the correct application, as IIRC, they were FP/accumulator mounts for a MK2 jetta/golf. Only difference being that they are "taller" the rubber section is thicker, and instead of being round, is hexagonal in shape, allowing you to hold it with a wrench while you tighten the 10mm nuts. 

Meyle Part Number: 191 201 256 MY "fuel pump reservoir mount"










They're a little over a dollar a piece at our cost here where I work. But I've seen places mark them up as high as $8/pc


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## Jettaboy1884 (Jan 20, 2004)

Wow, that's a very nice and clean looking 4KQ. I'm envious. 

Sounds like it is in very good hands, keep up the good work. :thumbup:


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## DowNnOuTDubin (Jun 21, 2006)

Awesome rebuild. :thumbup:


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## Biodome (Dec 7, 2000)

Looking good!


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## secondgen (Jan 9, 2004)

Back from literally almost the dead. What like 2 years since an update?!

It's still alive. Had to rebuild the distributor, the hall effect was dying on me intermittently in the summer and it took me a long time to diagnose it. New cap, rotor, MSD Blaster coil. Replaced the OP switches again, kept getting back chinese ones. Caliper locked up on me, replaced that. 

And last week the rear brake lines finally failed. So just finished updating all of them to copper/nickel lines and all new fittings. Nice to have a trustworthy pedal back.

Put a second muffler on the car a while back, was just too loud with the single borla. Made it for a couple years before it just grew obnoxious on me.

Cleaned up wearing the summer wheels
















New brake lines.








Second muffler 2.5" offset same side offset out magnaflow. Dumbed down the drone and made it nice, deep and quieter
















Spruced up the bland pipe exhaust tip with a left-over Nissan 350Z tip. Diffuses the exhaust sound a little surprisingly.


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## koolaid06 (Jun 11, 2012)

lookin' good! I just recently picked up an 84 FWD 4000 S that was built in Germany and imported here. Looking to restore mine and then some. Glad to see there's a little info about them out there.


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