# 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything *FIXED*



## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything - *FIXED!!**

I edited the name of this thread cause she's fixed!!
My 1996 VW Jetta GL 2.0l automatic will not start. I have replaced the coil, Distributer, Crank position sensor. I have tested all the wires back to the ECU for failure. All check out.
I am only getting 1.5v at the crank position sensor. I can not tell if it's sending signal from the trigger wire. The tach moves up a bit when turning it over.
I have a second ECU that came with the car (Bought it non running) The other ECU doesn't power up the solenoid at the throttle body, nor does it make the RPM gauge move up when cranking over.
The Check engine light comes on on both when you turn the key on.
Now, what voltage am I supposed to get at the Crank Position sensor? Shouldn't it be 12v and the trigger be 5v? I know you need an LED test light, logic probe or oscilloscope to see the sine wave. 
My feeling is that the ECU is not providing the proper voltage to the CPS, thus not allowing the car to start. Everything is new.
What are your thoughts?



_Modified by 83_WabbitGTI at 9:35 AM 2-2-2010_


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

Get code reader and read codes.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (germancarnut51)*

I searched the forum and didn't find.... Can you pull the codes any other way then buying a tool? If not, I'll have to beak down and buy one.


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## 97VWJett (May 17, 2003)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

So the car cranks but doesn't start.
Do you have fuel? (need to measure fuel pressure)
Do you have spark? (need to hold a spark plug w/wire attached to a ground and crank)
Do you have air? (need to do a compression test)
Do you have all of those at the correct time? (check timing marks)
Getting codes might move things along but you might check the above first.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (97VWJett)*

Sorry, forgot to list that stuff...
No, I do not have spark
Yes, I do have proper fuel pressure
Yes I have proper compression
I'll double check the timing. 
Besides a possible partially dead ECU, I guess the timing being off would cause the crank position sensor and pulse generator in the distributor not to mesh, thus causing a no start situation from the ECU.
I'll check the timing today and report back.
This is a great little car I traded a 42" Sony plasma TV for...hehehe
Pics for clix.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

Okay, sorry for the delay.
I replaced the timing belt and re-indexed the timing... Was 3 teeth off. Did not smack any valves thankfully.
Still didn't start. 
So, I spent another $75 bucks on a good tested ECU.
Still won't start.
So, here's the question, I seem to have proper voltage to the Coil, But the crank position sensor only has 1.5v to pins 1 and 3. Shouldn't it be 5v? I'm getting my Bentley this Friday, should help alot. But if anyone has a recommendation that would be great.
So to summarize: 
Replaced parts...
Coil
Crank Position Sensor
Distributor
Timing belt and set timing
ECU

I don't know what else it could be? Like I said earlier, I checked every wire back to the ECU, they seemed fine with an ohm meter. But maybe I was reading it wrong.


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## 75injectedSB (Feb 6, 2006)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

I am having the same issue at the moment with a 95 manual. What I have narrowed it down to was a bad distributor. I check the hall just as you would on a MKII. I am getting no flash out of the hall. I will have a new distro in it tonight and let you know if that was the issue.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (75injectedSB)*

The car should start and run with a bad hall sensor. Not great, but it should run.
It will not start or run with a bad crank position/speed sensor.


_Modified by germancarnut51 at 4:15 PM 10-28-2009_


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## mk2vdub (Mar 31, 2002)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *83_WabbitGTI* »_So, here's the question, I seem to have proper voltage to the Coil, But the crank position sensor only has 1.5v to pins 1 and 3. Shouldn't it be 5v? I'm getting my Bentley this Friday, should help alot. But if anyone has a recommendation that would be great. 

The bently sucks when it comes to checking the CKP. It just tells you to crank the engine for 6 seconds and check for a DTC. 
They have cheap "VAG-COM" cables on ebay for like $13 that lets you run version 409 of the software. But it will let you scan one module of the car. (For you the engine module)

_Quote, originally posted by *83_WabbitGTI* »_
I don't know what else it could be? Like I said earlier, I checked every wire back to the ECU, they seemed fine with an ohm meter. But maybe I was reading it wrong. 


You want the resistance to be ~1.5ohms or less. Or if your meter has the continuity test use that.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

Did you test/check the Neutral/Park Switch?


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (germancarnut51)*


_Quote, originally posted by *germancarnut51* »_Did you test/check the Neutral/Park Switch? 

If that was faulty, the car wouldn't turn over right?


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

Not sure about MKIII with auto tranny. On a MKIII with 5-speed, the starter will spin, but the engine will not start.
My friend's MKIII with auto is sitting outside, and I could experiment on it by disconnecting the neutral switch, but it doesn't have plug wires (old ones came apart when I was remving them to replace the spark plugs).
New plug wires will be here on Friday, and I could try a test on Saturday, if you still haven't gotten your car running.
In the meantime, it would take less than two minutes to open your hood and verify that the the Neutral Switch is working with a dmm (digital multimeter).


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## 75injectedSB (Feb 6, 2006)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (germancarnut51)*

I tested the crank position sensor in my motor and it was fine, ohms are dead on with a new one and when you crank the motor it sends pulse.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (germancarnut51)*

That really has me thinking... The switch has been kinda rewired with wire nuts, I'll test it.
Well, I went ahead and built the LED test light and tested the coil harness.....

With the LED connected to +12 and (-) to pin 2 of the connector this is what I get....
Key off = nothing
Key on to run = Light flash 
Key to start (Engine turning over) = Steady light.
According to everything I read, and some pages I found from a Russian site with repair pages... Yeah, Scanned bentley and vag pages.... The light should flicker. It does not.
Now I'm on a trail to find out why. I love this stuff.


_Modified by 83_WabbitGTI at 6:24 PM 10-28-2009_


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## 75injectedSB (Feb 6, 2006)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

If you have no flash from the power stage, either you have a bad ground back to the ecu from the coil or the power stage is bad. If the ground is good, and the ecu is good then you have a bad power stage. But you also have to factor in the CKS, if the crank sensor is bad, the ecu will not know to send signal to the power stage. You should have a flicker though, so you have something wrong elsewhere. Good luck man, I am in the same boat.


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## starz_own (Apr 28, 2004)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (germancarnut51)*

engine will not run with a bad hall sender the computer needs to receive a signal from it in order to complete the circuit. if you throw a test light to it, it will flash quickly once then have nothing after if its bad!


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (starz_own)*


_Quote, originally posted by *starz_own* »_engine will not run with a bad hall sender the computer needs to receive a signal from it in order to complete the circuit. if you throw a test light to it, it will flash quickly once then have nothing after if its bad!

Is this true? I've heard it'll run without it plugged in. Maybe it won't start if it is not plugged in?


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

Only thing that will cause a no start situation is the Crank position Sensor being bad. The Cam position sensor (Pulse Generator) in the distributor is not needed to run. It's main purpose is to keep track of cam timing. It will run like crap without it.

Now... I finally got my Bentley and got the problem figured out. The brand new Crank Position Sensor (Engine Speed Sensor) was bad from the get go. I hope it's not a wiring issue that caused it to fail, rather that it was bad from the factory.
I used the Bentley to test the sensor, it states to check pins for resistance. Good sensor is from 500-700Ohms. Mine was completely open.... So was the original one I swapped out. 
I'm thinking it was one of the ECU's the PO's put in. It had the same part number but had a "T" on the end. Does that designate Turbo? Maybe the wiring is slightly different and sent an overvoltage to the new sensor? I don't know.
I can't find anywhere in the manual where it specifies what voltage the CPS should have, just resistance. I'll check it before I throw the new one in.
I bought the CPS from Schucks (Schmucks) so it has a lifetime Warranty on it. Good thing... But it's such a PITA to replace. (Have to remove motor mount and starter... sometimes the oil filter too)
Anyway, I'll report back on my findings. I'm so close I can smell the exhaust!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Could someone either tell me, or test the connector going into the crank position sensor? I need to know the voltages and stuff just to make sure it's not going to fry the sensor. Don't want to have to go through all this again.
Thanks!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

Well bad news.... All that work and she still won't start.....
I'm gonna sell it.... LOL Well, no. I like a challenge.

So, I'm going to borrow a code reader from a mechanic friend of mine (Should have done this in the first place) and see what the computer tells me. I'm gonna be pissed if it's something simple.


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## papa_z (Dec 18, 2005)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

sorry for your troubles but this is a good thread...so much analysis...so little results but I am looking forward to reading how you fair on this! I am not having this issue at present but with my 95 gl...it is only a matter of time!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (papa_z)*

Well, I believe the more info you can throw out, the better the result. Especially for people having the same issues looking for answers...
I'm going to copy / paste my thread from another forum (got 1 reply there) to help with others diagnosis. 
Before I do, I think I have it figured out. I had a bad crank sensor and hall sender, but also a high resistance wire from the crank sensor. Looks like it's a replacement someone put in. I'll let ya know later this evening. The high resistance wire cuts the very weak signal from the crank position sensor thus not telling the ECU to throw pulse to the coil. That's what I suspect...
Here's the post from the other thread... Just add everything I've said here to the end and we're good!









Posted at Volkswagentalk.com
Howdy! New here, but not new to the VW crowd.
Have a 1996 VW Jetta 2.0l Automatic I bought as a non runner. (Traded a plasma TV for it) Beautiful car. Anyway, I'm not new to the VW scene, I've owned nothing but VW's since before I could drive.
This is the newest one though.
So, on with the issue.

The PO told me they were in a car wash and the car just died. Would not restart. (Crank over no fire)
So, first thought was the coil pack had a crack and shorted from the water. 
I replaced the coil pack to no avail. So I started doing a little digging. The Tach would not move up when cranking, so I thought either ECU or Hal Sender (or cam position sensor) in the distributor was bad. 
I replaced the distributor, still no spark. (As a reminder, the car has no spark from the get go)
So I followed the logical path. The Crank position sensor. 
I replaced it.
Still no spark, but now the tach moves up when cranking over. Sweet.
So what else causes the computer to throw a "No Start" issue? Timing, right? That was my very next step.
The timing was off by 2-3 teeth, not enough to smack a valve, but close... That's gotta be it!!...... Not. I re-indexed the timing to the correct positions... Still no spark.
So, last ditch thing...and the last of my non expendable cash went into buying a tested good used ECU.
Drat
Still no spark.
_So Here's a summary of everything I've done, and tested._

*Replaced:*
Crank position sensor
Distributor
Coil
ECU
Timing Belt
*Checked and tested:*
Timing
All wires from coil, distributor (Pulse Generator) and crank position sensor to the ECU plug harness.
All grounds, including the coil ground.
All fuses
Verified proper fuel pressure at fuel rail.
Verified proper compression
Replaced ALL vacuum lines
Verified continuity on all spark plug and coil wires
Checked all connections for corrosion
Made sure I had voltage at the coil when cranking over the car (bad ignition switch check)
Checked cap and rotor, even tested continuity of rotor connections
Checked for spark by pulling a plug and grounding, also by pulling coil wire and holding it away from ground.
*Voltages I found:*
Pin 1 and 3 of the Hal Sender (Distributor) = 12v+
Pin 1 and 3 of the crank position sensor = 1.5v (Shouldn't that be around 5v??)
Pin 1 and 3 of the coil = 12v+

*Things I have not checked:*
Engine codes (do not have a code reader yet)
Any relays that might be in the ignition circuit
Pulse generation from the Crank Position Sensor and Hal Sender. *(I need to make a tester, or Can I use a Logic Probe??)*
Pulse from the ECU to the coil
If anyone has information on the Pulse Detection, and the correct voltages, please chime in. My Bentley will be here Friday.
So, as a reminder, I got this car for my wife, and she now wants to set it on fire.... LOL!! "That'll get the spark to it!!"

Thank you so much, and sorry for the long post. But I like giving all the information I can.
Doug in Oregon.


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## 75injectedSB (Feb 6, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

I literally have done all the steps you have to my car as well and still no spark. I am getting pulse out of the CKPS, no pulse out the the ecu. I have put 3 ecus in the car, two coils, two distros, and two CKPS. I have pinned the harness according to the bently, all ohms and voltage check out. The ECU is not throwing any codes except for implausible signal from crank position sensor. This code is thrown every time you turn the key on, and is reset once the car starts. I am getting 5 volts to the CKPS though, you are only getting 1.5. I also have 5 volts to the Hall sender. Although the ohms I am reading from my CKPS differ, they were pulled from running cars. I am looking for a harness now as this is the last logical step to take. I will replace the engine harness and report back.


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

*Re: (75injectedSB)*


_Quote, originally posted by *75injectedSB* »_I literally have done all the steps you have to my car as well and still no spark. I am getting pulse out of the CKPS, no pulse out the the ecu. I have put 3 ecus in the car, two coils, two distros, and two CKPS. I have pinned the harness according to the bently, all ohms and voltage check out. The ECU is not throwing any codes except for implausible signal from crank position sensor. This code is thrown every time you turn the key on, and is reset once the car starts. I am getting 5 volts to the CKPS though, you are only getting 1.5. I also have 5 volts to the Hall sender. Although the ohms I am reading from my CKPS differ, they were pulled from running cars. I am looking for a harness now as this is the last logical step to take. I will replace the engine harness and report back.

Is your timing belt intact?


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## 75injectedSB (Feb 6, 2006)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*

Sure is, when I picked up the car it needed a timing belt. I put a belt on it and checked a few times since the no start to make sure I was in time. The car did not run before the timing belt either.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

I've been so aggravated with this car, I let it sit for a week or so. I'll be back to work on it this weekend and post what I find. I suspect a bad wire. Could it be that easy? Probably not.


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*









Use an led for 12 volt use, one available from radioshack.
Use the same led on fuel injector signal.


_Modified by jorge r at 6:43 AM 11-20-2009_


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

Thanks for the reply, already built the 12v LED test light. Not getting coil pulse from ECU. It's steady.
Injectors are functioning properly.
I suspect I have a faulty wire from the crank position sensor. The wires do not look factory at all. So that's where I'll start.


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## dazhel (Jul 21, 2003)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

is it "no start"? or "no crank"? does the engine turn over and just not fire up? or nothing at all?
MKIII Jetta/Golf No Crank Diagnosis: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/nocrankdiag/index.htm
I actually went through the whole process and discovered by alarm module ("whitebox") was the problem, performed the bypass and starts up every time (and new whitebox on the way).
Edit: Adding the following:
" implausible signal from crank position sensor" - I would say the timing is still out. The sensor on the dizzy is looking for the contact to pass by at the right time, and if it doesn't - implausible signal.


_Modified by dazhel at 6:42 PM 11-20-2009_


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (dazhel)*

It turns over "Cranks" just fine. The white box alarm module only cuts the 12v input to the starter solenoid from the key switch. Wish that was my issue but it's wayyyy deeper then that.
My no start is caused from no spark.
I really need to triple check my timing. Just to make sure....again...lol
I wish the timing marks were the same as the older 1.8 JH engines in the early Rabbit GTI's. There was no mistaking it. The Intermittent pulley and crank pulley lined up with two dots. And the cam pulley lined up with a dash on the back side to the flat spot on the head. 
Now it's "Line up the crank pulley in the PLASTIC (oh great) shroud arrow, then line up the distributor to the hash mark on the body of it. Just doesn't seem precision to me. Plastic shrouds can bend and flex, or even break.


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## 97'BlueGT (Jul 13, 2003)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Wabbit,
I suspect that the original issue is not related to what you think it was.
I think the original problem has not even been diagnosed yet.
The only part that you have not replaced that could be the issue is the MAF. Water getting sucked up the intake tube could cause that.
As far as the timing is concerned:
Rotate the crank by hand until you get the TDC mark on the flexplate aligned. The oval shaped hole in the trans bellhousing with a flat bottom. If you look down there the TDC mark is an "O". TDC is when the "O" is cut in half by the hole edge.
Remove the belts and the lower crank water pump pulley.
Take of the two plastic timing covers.
The top cam sprocket should be at TDC (the pointer on the plastic backing pointed right into the groove between "O" and "T"
Next, check that the little "groove" in the intermediate pulley (it's hard to find but it is there!!) needs to line up with the notch in the back of the crank pulley. (you need to temporarily put it back on to see it.
If the above step is NOT DONE PROPERLY the Crank Position Sensor will not detect TDC. It is very normal for it to be off a tooth or two anymore than that and it won't run.
Once you are sure ALL OF THOSE MARKS ALIGN! Then button the front up. 
Last check would be to pull of the dizzy cap and check that the rotor is pointing to the little groove on the body of the dizzy. (towards the block.)
Now crank it over and check for spark (AT THE COIL CONNECTION TO THE CAP) I once had a BRAND NEW Rotor be bad out of the box.


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## 97'BlueGT (Jul 13, 2003)

as far as I can tell the Crank Position sensor is only a "proximity" sensor. A lobe on the intermediate shaft swings by and tells it "Hey, its TDC!!"
Because it is on the intermediate shaft just like the camshaft it turns at 1/2 crank speed. So TDC is TDC #1 Cylinder. Get it off that little window and the ECU thinks the crank is broke or something worse. Hence NO START.


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## 97'BlueGT (Jul 13, 2003)

BTW the old 8V engines were MUCH easier to time.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

That's just about exactly how I timed it after replacing the timing belt.
I did not know about the groove on the intermediate pulley... I'll have to look for it. Thanks for the tip! I did align it by the notch in the dizzy body to directly center of the rotor.
Interesting thought on the MAF. But that shouldn't tell the ECU not to pulse the coil pack right? Like I said above... I made an LED test light. Hooked it into the coil harness... Key on, flashed.... Turning over... On and steady, not pulsing.... No spark from coil wire to ground. Coil wire good, coil good.
I really suspect I either got the timing wrong, or there is a broken wire from the CPS to the ECU. Or a wire with a lot of resistance that would impede the low voltage trigger.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (97'BlueGT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *97’BlueGT* »_as far as I can tell the Crank Position sensor is only a "proximity" sensor. A lobe on the intermediate shaft swings by and tells it "Hey, its TDC!!"
Because it is on the intermediate shaft just like the camshaft it turns at 1/2 crank speed. So TDC is TDC #1 Cylinder. Get it off that little window and the ECU thinks the crank is broke or something worse. Hence NO START.

EXACTLY!!
The ECU needs to see the TDC pulse to set the timing for the firing sequence. Everything is referenced off that damn sensor. The Hall pulse from the dizzy sets the timing on the first reference from the Crank sensor. So both sensors have to jive for ECU to tell coil to fire. Otherwise, yes... It thinks the timing belt is broke, or so far out of time would cause engine damage.


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## 97'BlueGT (Jul 13, 2003)

I am 80% sure the intermediate is off. It is worth the shot to align it. 
You got it NOT RUNNING correct?
No telling what they did. If the dizzy was pulled at some point and put back wrong then aligning the rotor still doesn't align the lobe on the shaft to the sensor.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (97'BlueGT)*

I put a new Dizzy in myself. (all in the posts above...LOL)
You really have me thinking! I'm gonna check it in the morning. If I can't get it running this weekend, I'm selling it and getting my wife an 97 Audi A6 Quattro with a bad turbo...LOL I like the challenges.
I really want to get this car going it's sooooo nice. One minor little fold in the front bumper, otherwise it's 90% perfect. (90%....lol) well.
Hey Blue GT... Thanks for your input, you have my brain scrambling noe with new possibilities. I don't want to give up on this car. I'm a robotics Engineer by trait, and tracing down issues and problems is a game for me. I'm like the "House" of the automotive world in a sense. 
I'll report back. I'm going to document every Ohm reading on every wire and catalog it for everyone's reference. Hopefully some people can get some logical knowledge from my hair pulling.

Thanks all!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Ok... Really interesting developments.
I just got done with more testing, and this is what I found:

*Wire Testing (Ohm Readings)* 
Crank position sensor
Pin 1 to ECU: 0 Ohm
Pin 2 to ECU: 0 Ohm
Pin 3 to ECU: 0 Ohm
All good
Hall Sender (In distributor) 
Pin 1 to ECU: 0 Ohm
Pin 2 to ECU: 0 Ohm
Pin 3 to ECU: 0 Ohm
All Good
*Ohm Readings on sensor*
Crank Position Sensor
Between pins 2 and 3 (sensor coil): 580 Ohm (Bentley says 500-700 Ohm)
Hall Sender
Between pins 2 and 3: Untested, need breakout cable.
*Voltages*
Crank position sensor
Pins 1 and 3: 4.8v
Hall sender
Pins 1 and 3: 13v
Now, I made an LED test light according to this site: http://20v.org/tools.htm (I have an Audi too) It's basically the same thing as the VAG test Light (VAG 1115)

Here's what I found.... (Using LED test light)
Crank position sensor
Pin 2 to Negative, Positive to 12v battery: Key On = Steady, turn over = slightly change color... No flash.
Hall sender
Pin 2 to negative, Pin 1 to positive = Same as CPS?!?! Odd. (Bentley says to hook one lead to pin 2, the other to either pin 1 or pin 3)

According to the Bentley, the LED should flash as it turns over. It's not, unless I'm not seeing it.
Just for fun, I hooked up the old CPS and tested it. I get a lower ohm reading on Pins 2 & 3. The LED light acts the same, even when I waved a screwdriver in front of it. The sensor is a magnetic type and metal disrupting the electro magnetic field causes the pulse generation. 
Now, with the key on, and waving the screw driver in front of the sensor made all kinds of stuff in the engine bay click and whizzbang...








Interesting....
Maybe the sensor wasn't bad in the first place??
Now, for more fun and testing.... Cause I'm that kind of guy, I had my wife turn the motor over while I waved the screwdriver in front of the sensor.... I could have sworn the engine tried to fire once.
I need to do the same thing, only this time, with the key on, pull the coil wire and prep it for visual spark. Wave the screwdriver on the sensor and see if I get spark.... (With the hall sender lined up at the window of course)

With all that said, I'm ordering the VAG Com tool today... Enough guessing. Although it's been a great experience, and I hope this post helps others out.....



_Modified by 83_WabbitGTI at 12:38 PM 11-22-2009_


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## 75injectedSB (Feb 6, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Hope you get your car going. I ended up swapping the harness out for a different harness and that did the trick. VAGcom told me nothing except implausible signal from the CKPS. This code is always present until the car starts then it is automatically cleared. Good luck with the hunt, I got tired of it. After I tore the harness apart to see if I could spot what the problem way, I saw nothing out of ord.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (75injectedSB)*

Where did you get your harness, and what did it cost?


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Do you have power (+12V) at the coil?
You have injector signal, so the crankshaft hall sensor is o.k.,
so there should be a signal to the coil, the signal is being lost in the wiring system _I believe_, or the ECM is acting up, 
missing a ground to the coil (there's singnal ground and metal housing ground), 
faulty wiring to the coil.
I'd try an alternate coil electrical connection like this:
test with led for signal and a volt meter for power (power is the large wire),
use chasis ground for ground instead of signal wiring ground, this is to find bad signal ground wiring,


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (jorge r)*

Did all of that about 7 posts up. LOL. 
The Coil is getting a steady LED test from the trigger. Key on, LED Flash on then off. Key On, Starter spinning = LED on steady...no flash.
Have good 12v at coil and all grounds good.
Switched between 2 coils, 3 crank position sensors, 2 distributors, and 3 ECU's.
Is there just a way to go to older electronic ignition? LOL get rid of the ECU loop controlling the coil.


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## 97'BlueGT (Jul 13, 2003)

You've done everything except check the alignment of all the pulleys


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *83_WabbitGTI* »_Did all of that about 7 posts up. LOL.
The Coil is getting a steady LED test from the trigger. Key on, LED Flash on then off. Key On, Starter spinning = LED on steady...no flash.
Is there just a way to go to older electronic ignition? LOL get rid of the ECU loop controlling the coil. 

LOL, you have to find the problem or use independent race parts.
You have fuel signal and no spark signal while cranking. Try cranking the engine with the key to ON without using the ignitino switch to crank. Jump the starter solenoid by disconnecting the plug in wire and jump between that solenoid terminal and the big battery wire terminal next to it. This would bypass the ignition switch to crank the engine.
This is because you mention the light changes state in the run and start ignition switch positions.



_Modified by jorge r at 5:40 PM 11-23-2009_


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

I was just looking at the diagram trying to determine what's positive and what's negative. I find the coil and vss, cps, injectors, etc., gets +12V from the same circuit.
There is a constant ground wire.
The 3rd wire goes to the ECM. This must open and close contact as a signal to fire the spark. This would be pinched to ground not opening the circuit for spark signal but your led turns off with the ignition key, I don't think its shorted (pinched) to ground. The other possible cause is that the ignition switch feeds power to the ECM with key to ON and with key to START, two different wires feeding two different terminals of the ECM from the ignition switch. 
I go with a bad ignition switch or bad wiring between ignition switch and ECM in the START position.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (jorge r)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jorge r* »_
I go with a bad ignition switch or bad wiring between ignition switch and ECM in the START position.

That's what I thought too. I tested the whole system while cranking and all voltages stayed (+/- 2 volts) 
The ECU sends a negative pulse to the coil to fire it... What's odd is from the LED test, it's a constant ground. no pulse.
I'm going to re-check the timing tomorrow, it's been raining. If that doesn't do the trick, i'll do the other CPS sensor test by pulling the coil wire while cranking (set it near a ground) have my wife turn it over while I run a screwdriver over the sensor to see if it sparks. 
Do you think it's possible the teeth that pass by the CPS (actually the open spot) picked up something so it looks like a constant read? I wish there was a way to look in at the sensor hole without taking out the front motor mount. PITA!!
More to come, and thank you guys for chiming in... Got a lot of very smart and helpful people on here. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif







http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


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## jorge r (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

As long as the crankshaft position sensor picks up a signal, both fuel injectors and ignition coil get their signal from the ECU. 
Valve timing, nor CPS timing wouldn't keep the signal from happening. If either the fuel injector or the ignition coil fires, or both fires, the crankshaft position sensor is doing its work, no problem with it. You replaced it repeatedly already. You can pull the crankshaft sensor out and peak in there at the teeth to inspect but I doubt you'll find anything since you have fuel injector signal.
I don't see how timing would keep the coil from geting its signal. Both injector and ignition coil signal is in the ground or negative side, make and break and done by the ECU inside it. You say you have a signal to the fuel injector but not the coil. 
It is why I'm suggesting analizing the coil signal in different ways.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (jorge r)*

Very good point there. 
I'm going to hook an o-scope to it and look at the pulse (if any) 
But first I'll check the timing.
This car is enough to drive you completely mad.


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## booooost90 (Feb 8, 2009)

any such luck with this ?... im in the same boat i have also replaced everything including the ignition switch ... only diff for me is i have no fuel OR spark .. and no cel .. so hopefuly you can point us in some sort of direction


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (booooost90)*

If you have no CEL, either the fuse is blown for the ECU, or the ECU itself is dead... Sorry man. 
(Or the CEL light is burnt out... not likely)


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## booooost90 (Feb 8, 2009)

replaced the ecu with a good tested one ... so it cant be the ecu .. ah well back to the drawing board .. hopefuly i find something


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (booooost90)*

Ohm test the wires... And double check the ECU relay!! If the relay fails, the ECU will appear dead. 
I sent you a PM


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## booooost90 (Feb 8, 2009)

got a good two weeks of free time so ill be spending a lot of hours on it .. thank you very much i will be using your post a point of ref i think this will be helpful to all with the no start issue


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## nobug (Aug 10, 2003)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

I had a car with the same problems, thought it was a crank sensor, but after replacing it, it still would not start, tried a dist. still nothing, ended up being a wire in the harness near the computer, it was tied down in the cowl beneath the rain tray, but it had chaffed thru on the bottom, chaffed thru the wrap and wire. Just happened to be the wire for crank sensor.


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## booooost90 (Feb 8, 2009)

i know the op has a bently or atleast i think they do .. however this may be of some assistance .. im going to be following the wiring diagram this weekend .. 
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty...x.htm


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## nyjeff (Dec 1, 2009)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

don't hate me but i just fixed my 96 jetta no spark car. I payed little for the car because it had the problem of no spark. The plug on the Distutor has connectors that got loose. Just take a paper clip or a small small screw drive and pry the back of the contact in the plug to make a better conection. My car started right up. everything is good just a bad connection. don't pry too hard just a little.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (nyjeff)*

Update!
Well, I spent all day working on this beast.
Unwrapped the wiring harness all the way to the ECU. Found a few crappy repair jobs and fixed them up.
I re-checked the timing and found I was a tooth off on the cam. Fixed that.
Still no fire... But found out something...
I got to looking at the ECU and decided to type the part number in google. I can across a nice PDF list of vehicles vs ECU's
http://www.awe-tuning.com/medi...s.pdf
Looked at the part number on all three of my ECU's... Low and behold two were for the wrong year!! 
037-906-259 Is an OBD2 1996 model Golf / Jetta 2.0l (The original one)
037-906-258-T is for an OBD1 car prior to 96 (This one the PO bought and included with car)(I also think is fried.)
037-906-258 AE is for an OBD1 car early 1996 and before. (The one I bought from the wrecking yard)
No wonder the damn thing won't start!! OBD1 and OBD2 are totally different in wiring! OBD1 even requires Relay 3 to be installed (ECU Power)
The jerks at the wrecking yard sold me the wrong ECU, so I'm off to exchange it. IT SHOULD RUN!! More later.
Oh, When I hook the original ECU up, the solenoids and stuff click in the engine bay when the key is turned on, the other two don't do that. I think the Coil output on the original ECU is fried from the coil sorting out. 


_Modified by 83_WabbitGTI at 3:55 PM 1-10-2010_


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: 96 Jetta 2.0l Will not start - Replaced everything (83_WabbitGTI)*

For those of you waiting impatiently, your not the only one... LOL
The Wrecking yard had a hard time finding the "Right" ECU with the VW part number. They found one and will be here Friday after 4:30.... I'm on pins and needles here!!


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## booooost90 (Feb 8, 2009)

if this thing runs doug you have given us alll hope for our non running wonders of the world


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (booooost90)*

IT RUNS!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rrN6TwbzTM
So, to summarize... It was a wrong ECU.
The original ECU fried from the coil pack shorting. It shorted out the power output stage to the coil as far as I can tell.
If you guys are having the same problem, please check to make sure you bought the right ECU....
An ECU part number ending in 258 is for OBD1, one ending in 259 is for OBD2.
Now I got to work on the Codes I'm getting. It seems to have a lack of power. I might have indexed the timing to the wrong position. (One tooth off) I used the mark on the flywheel VS the mark above the crank pulley. 
SWEET!!!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Oh, and it was my wifes birthday. What a present!!
Sorry for both of us looking so scruffy in the video. I made my wife wait till early this morning to install the right ECU I got the night before. Non showered....LOL Gotta love it.
Drove her up and down the road to test stuff out, drives GREAT!! Lack of power, but like I said, the timing is probably a tooth off. 
Finally... Job done.
This was a heck of an experience. Learned a hell of a lot about how the ECU works. Any questions, please ask!! I would be very happy to help!


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## silvermine (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

lol she's a keeper! i mean your wife !! mine would divorce me if her jetta was out of commission for that long








congrats on the fix.


_Modified by silvermine at 1:36 PM 1-16-2010_


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## booooost90 (Feb 8, 2009)

HAZAAAAA !!!! i can only imagine how excited you are your wife are ps sweet ride !!!!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (booooost90)*

Well I re-indexed the timing (twice) and only got slightly better.
First time I indexed it it wouldn't start...lol ohhh noezzzz....
Did it again and it's spot on.
So, I read the codes, and I'm getting a throttle position sensor intermittent failure. Have to replace it.
The Check engine light is on all the time. Is that normal when it throws a code?
Still has a ver bad lack of power. Can barely climb a hill. Any suggestions?
Would the throttle position sensor be my culprit? Seems it's used by the ECU to adjust the timing advance? Or am I thinking wrong.... hmmmm...


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Another update....

We're still working on the no power issue....
Let me post up my Vag-Com findings as they happen.
This one was the original before I got the car running....
_VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 037 906 258 AE
Component and/or Version: MOTOR PMC 3
Software Coding: 0261204018
Work Shop Code: 2227355905
2 Faults Found:
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
03-00 - No Signal
01265 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
31-00 - Please Register/Activate
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 037 906 258 AE
Component and/or Version: MOTOR PMC 3
Software Coding: 0261204018
Work Shop Code: 2227355905
1 Fault Found:
01265 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (N18)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
_ 
Then after the new ECU (Correct one)

_VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Chassis Type: 1H - VW G/J/V Mk3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,25,56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 037 906 259 R
Component: MOTRONIC M5.9 AT V01
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00066
3 Faults Found:
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
16725 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0341 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
16487 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0103 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans
Controller: 01M 927 733 EA
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 2986
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
3 Faults Found:
00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00532 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
00638 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
03-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Skipping Address 15-Airbags
_ 
So I bought a known good throttle body from a friend off of a working engine.
Got a little better!! Still have codes...

_VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 037 906 259 R
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9 AT V01
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
2 Faults Found:
16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal
P0341 - 35-00 - -
17881 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1473 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
_ 
From the 16725 code I'm thinking the timing is still off. I re-aligned it according to the Bentley. Using the mark on the flywheel (This is an automatic car) I had the crank aligned to the front pulley & arrow mark on the plastic.
Can someone please point me to a clear picture of the timing mark for an automatic transmission?? 
Seemed to get slightly better! But still got the same codes above.
So I swapped back out to the original Distributor. No difference. 

Here are the symptoms:
No power from a standing start
Looses power up a hill
Misses terribly at cruising speed
After engine warm it misses at idle

There is now a "Sweet Spot" on the throttle where you can make the car move a little faster then before. This is after changing the throttle body. It really feels like the timing is off, and I guess the CPS code would make the timing map a "Limp Home" mode huh?
When flooring it it sounds like it's bogging down... Yup... Timing or timing map.
So, tonight I'll test the hall sender in the Distributor.... again. And check the timing for the 50th time (I'm really getting fast at that!!)

*OH!!! And a question for the Gurus!!! *
Since I put this new throttle body on, do I need to marry it to the ECU? Or what ever it's called... Can't remember. This is an OBD2 car from 1996. Don't know if you have to do that or not.



_Modified by 83_WabbitGTI at 6:36 AM 1-21-2010_


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## FL 2.0L (Aug 1, 2002)

Have you looked at the back of the crank gear yet?


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (FL 2.0L)*


_Quote, originally posted by *FL 2.0L* »_Have you looked at the back of the crank gear yet?

Is it pinned or have a key way? I'll be taking everything back off this weekend to make triple sure the timing is spot on. 
Like I said in another post. If I align the harmonic balancer to the arrow for time, the car will not start. 
Also the distributor, When the rotor is lined up on the timing mark, the sensor is covered by quite a margin. Shouldn't this be open at this point? It's like 20-25deg off center.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

Finally! DONE!! 
She's back up and running beautifully. 
I stripped everything down again, and got the timing aligned EXACTLY. Went to start her and got the same damn code... Cam position implausible signal. The Crank gear was fine.
I tried the Distributor rotate trick to no avail.
My buddy from the club had a Dist from a OBD1 car, I though, "What the hell.... Worth a shot"
Threw it in and got the same code, tweaked the Dist about 5 deg clockwise and BAM!! Code went away and the ECU set the correct timing map. Runs like a champ!! Well, misses a bit here and there, but much more power and no bucking at cruising speeds.
I'll do a full tune up, oil and fluid change and replace the o2 sensor next. 
My VAG-COM software said I was getting 2-3 mis-fires/ sec. As of today it's maybe one every minute or so. 
My Wife is happy... (She's hooked on VW's now)
Hope this post helps someone, I learned a lot!!


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

What is that?


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

You didn't fix anything, except maybe prove that you have a loose wire somewhere.
The camshaft position sensor will not affect engine starting. You can even disconnect it, and the engine should still start fine as the ECU will drop down to a failsafe/default setting.
Probably a short or bad connection in the wiring harness around the distributor somewhere (maybe in the round connector above the distributor?).
At any rate, glad you got it working, but don't expect it to stay that way if you don't find the original cause of the problem.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (germancarnut51)*

Did you even read through the post? Please re-read before assuming it's not fixed.
Yes I know the cam position sensor will not keep the engine from running, and it puts it into limp home mode.
The original problem was a blown original ECU from a shorted coil. Then the PO purchased an ECU for an OBD1 car. I did the same. Then got the correct ECU for the car and it fired. 
The distributor was replaced which cured the limp home mode.
My wires are all good and verified via ohm test. No corrosion in the main engine connector. 
My wife has already put over 2300 miles on the car without a single hiccup... So yes... It's fixed.


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## Pineapplegti ! (Dec 17, 2008)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *83_WabbitGTI* »_What is that?

It was a wiring diagram.. do you have a pinout from the dizzy to the ecu plug ?


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (Pineapplegti !)*

Thanks! Yeah, I have the Bentley. Do you need it?


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## Pineapplegti ! (Dec 17, 2008)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

Im poor at the moment.. unless you wanna take a picture and post it up


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## Pineapplegti ! (Dec 17, 2008)

*Re: (Pineapplegti !)*

Nevermind i found one online.. haha.


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

LOL That's what I meant...


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## Pineapplegti ! (Dec 17, 2008)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*


_Quote, originally posted by *83_WabbitGTI* »_LOL That's what I meant... 

Unless you want to take a pic of the obd2 diagram .. all i have is the obd1


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## jordan92o (Aug 27, 2005)

*Re: (Pineapplegti !)*

im having the same issue as you were the light isnt flashing when testing the wire to the coil from the ecu. but i changed my ecu and that didnt fix it. the only other thing i didnt change that you did is the crank sensor


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (jordan92o)*

You can test the crank sensor. Pull the plug and use an ohm meter between the two outer pins. You should have between 500-700 ohms.
I know it's a pain to pull the sensor, but pull it, connect it back to the harness, turn the key to the run position (Do Not Start) and wave a screw driver or something metal back and forth across the metal nipple on the sensor itself. You will hear some solenoids in the engine compartment start clicking, and the servo in the throttle body run. If you don't the sensor is really bad.
Do you have a code reader?


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## jordan92o (Aug 27, 2005)

*Re: (83_WabbitGTI)*

no code reader or ohm tester


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## 83_WabbitGTI (Jun 2, 2005)

*Re: (jordan92o)*

Kinda hard to do diagnostics on a car without a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) You can get one at Walmart or any car parts store for around 10 bucks.
If you can't, pull the sensor and do the trick I described.
The easiest way to pull the sensor:
1. Jack up car and use jackstands. Disconnect battery!
2. Support motor near transmission bell housing with jack. Put a little pressure on it.
3. Unbolt front motor mount. Two bolts go through starter. Pull starter and set to the side. No need to disconnect wires.
4. Unbolt Main Allen type bolt going through round part of motor mount. (Bottom side)
5. Remove both the rubber and metal mounts. It's tricky, but if you turn it on it's side you can maneuver it out.
6. A few people say to remove the oil filter. I didn't fint it necessary.
7. Unplug sensor from harness, follow the wire back and pull the clip securing it to the block. It's a pull type.
8. Use a 6mm ball end Allen Wrench to unscrew the bolt from the sensor in the block.
You have to pull the motor mount because the sensor is located right behind it. Unless you have tiny hands and a bendable allen. LOL
That's about it.


_Modified by 83_WabbitGTI at 8:17 AM 2-19-2010_


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## devan85 (Oct 11, 2013)

im having the same problem with my car i did a engine swap into a 1980 rabbit with a 96 2.0 drove it for 2 weeks with no problems then all the sudden it died and wouldnt start replaced the coil thinking it was that but when i turn the key to the on position it makes one spark but when cranking theres no spake so i have a few ecus lol just gathered them from parts cars all obd2 like my wiring and what not but still no luck im pretty well clueless.


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## AWisecup (Dec 8, 2014)

*Same boat!*

not to revive an old thread. but....
im in the same boat with 96 golf gl 2.0 5 spd 
I went through all test online through Direct-hit.
simply put:
GF hits pot hole. car starts to studder 10min later, followed my miss at idle rpms.
replaced spark plugs, temp for for 30 mins.
then same situation, hardly started, once started, had to maintain high rpm and then it died and wouldn't start,
only replaced fuel filter cause I didn't have tools.

got it to my shop,
obviously no start, no spark.
checked spark at coil, very weak, 
replaced css spark improved.
but no spark out of disi,
replaced rotor inside disi, still little to no spark out of boot.
checked power and grounds at ECM,
proved good, 
but not trigger pulse at coil. -signs of bad ecm (037906259D)
replaced with junkyard ecm 037906259M from automatic jetta
still no pulse at coil
have ok spark out of coil, but not out of spark plug.
OBD2 Reader pulls codes:
P1426 Manufacturer control
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
P1476 Manufacturer control.

^again signs on bad ECM

going to try and get a tested 037906259D non smog and try again,
in the mean time ive been tracing wires and and yet to find any that are damaged.

any gurus on the situation, please pm me, this is my only car and I can not afford anything else.
will update once further testing is done.


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## TeresaMRoberts (Feb 20, 2014)

OK i have an 02 jetta 2.0 and I'm having the same issues. I've been calling around trying to find the part (pulled it out to get the right number on top) and eventually called the VW dearship to get a price on the ECU. (i've replaced coil, spark plugs, crank shaft positioning sensor and still no fire. I've tried starting with lighter fluid cause if it died after it started I'd know it was fuel pump but still no fire... Cranks just fine) 

Any who guy at the dealership says that i can buy a used one but i'm still going to have to take it in to be programmed.... I don't remember reading anything on here about that... I do remember reading how he put the wrong model number in and it wouldn't fire. Just looking for some VW guidance is the guy just trying to get me in cause I'd have to tow it. "He's like you could have missed something small blablablabla" I feel like Mechanics talk down to me cause I'm a girl and they think I'm stupid. I do my research and I'm learning to change my own parts. I do have my b/f who is ASE certified but he mainly works on Chevrolet cause that's all he buys. So we have been trying to figure this one out together. Hes been making sure everything is installed correctly. 

Guidance please, feel like dealership is lying to me....


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## SchnitzelBrenner (Jan 7, 2014)

Im having the same issue as well in my 96 golf gl manual. my cars cam timing slipped and i let it sit for about amonth before i fixed it. So my timing is spot on for sure because i did it and re did it about 30 times hoping it would solf the problem. I read through the whole thread and have done most of what everyone has done. I have a new CPS (Crank Position Sensor), cap and rotor, spark plugs and a used distributor that has been confirmed to work i also have 3 fuelpump relays that i knowworks. My voltage and ohms have been tested through the fuel and ignition system and all check out to be fine. I just cleaned up my ground connections hoping that would do it because i had a vr jetta that had a poopy ground after an engine swap and it ran with the first turn. Im still not getting fuel nor spark. And on top of me cleaning my grounds my starter quit on my and its less than 4 months old


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## InlinePerformance (Oct 25, 2008)

Ok fixed many an aba cars-1: when key is on does throttle body him/click for several seconds? Yes-good ecu
2 buy cheap noid light set-plug into any injector-crank csr if it doesnt flash check for power at plug(one sode shiuld prove 12 with key on) if thats good
3 check for spark at coil
4 replace crank sensor and try it all again.
5 if that didnt fix it check wiring i loom starting from crank senor pmug end-see many a wores green rot and crack: ohm out three sores to ecu to check for continuity-use bently to verify thee pins at ecu
6 if that did not fix it and the motor is tomex/good compression you missed something from 1-5 cause thats bought it 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## razer4360 (Apr 30, 2015)

I'm kinda having the same thing but my mk3 2.0 cabrio starts but doesn't stay running long without throttle. Can't seem to figure it out. Its an automatic and the ignition coil was done less than a year ago as well as the actual ignition switch. Also AutoZone doesnt have an obd1 scanner or the obd2 won't even connect to see what codes come up when it was running. And the pcv valve has a leak and I'm not sure what to do about it or the plastic intake hose that goes into the lower end of the block from the intake hose. The part at the lower block broke off and wont stay in.


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