# Time to start modding questions



## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

My apologies up front for the long post. I am starting this thread to gain knowledge so that I spend my money wisely the first time around. Getting ready to start modding my 225 and leaning towards APR stage 1. For those who have, is there a benefit to a catback exhaust when tuned only stage 1 or is it really recommend to have one prior to getting tuned. I am considering the relentless xs power 3 inch because of price (450) build quality and the amount of positive post on it. Any other cost effective options in socal? Also found a great deal on ST coilovers but understand that I will need adjustable rear control arms...looking for options there as well. I've read lots of threads and just looking to see if I'm going in the right direction...dont want to buy stuff just got the sake of buying stuff. Want to enhance performance and aesthetics without breaking the bank right out the gate. Anything missing from this short list? Thanks


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## hunTTsvegas (Aug 27, 2012)

sik tl said:


> My apologies up front for the long post. *1) I am starting this thread to gain knowledge *so that I *2) spend my money wisely the first time around*. Getting ready to*3) start modding my 225 *and leaning towards APR stage 1. For those who have, is there a benefit to a catback exhaust when tuned only stage 1 or is it really recommend to have one prior to getting tuned. I am considering the relentless xs power 3 inch because of price (450) build quality and the amount of positive post on it. Any other cost effective options in socal? Also found a great deal on *4) ST coilovers but understand that I will need adjustable rear control arms*...looking for options there as well. I've read lots of threads and just looking to see if I'm going in the right direction...dont want to buy stuff just got the sake of buying stuff. Want to *5) enhance performance and aesthetics without breaking the bank right out the gate.* Anything missing from this short list? Thanks


1) There is plenty of knowledge here and while most will offer it up, take the initiative to search and read as well. Most everything has been covered here or in other technical forums so knowing where to go for the information you're looking for will save you time.

2) Best way to do that is to not skimp on price and actually buy quality parts to begin with. You see it too many times, "Got a _________ because of the price and now I have ___________ issue/problem/question/etc." Even more reputable companies have part failures but the difference lies in their reaction to a failure of their part. Also, opinions are great but it comes down to that balance of knowledge you have about the part vs how much you have to spend. 

3) Figure out your end goal with the car (drag queen.. hahaha, autocross, daily, big turbo, etc) before randomly purchasing parts. If your goal is to just have a fun daily then canned tunes are decent enough however going a different route may be better suited to a custom tune. Additional parts to support those tunes will also vary again, depending on end goal.

4) If you plan on lowering the car lower than an inch from stock height, yes. If you want to put the suspension on and keep it at stock height until you can purchase at least 1 set of QUALITY adjustable rear control arms then have at it. However, while in there I would look into refreshing other suspension components at the same time. Just a thought.

5) Without being too harsh, you got into the wrong hobby. If it were cheap then everyone would be zipping around in ridiculously powerful cars that are built with unbreakable parts that they bought for pennies. Just doesn't happen. 

All that aside, these are just my opinions and may differ from other opinions on the forum here. Either way, welcome and get to studying! :beer:


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

As long as your motor and transmission are in tip-top shape, I would get the suspension sorted before anything else. Odds are, all the rubber pieces in your car are 12 years old, and they'll need refreshing anyway. Once the suspension is nice and quiet, you can focus on making more noise with an exhaust. 

I have my APR stage 1 tune on stock exhaust, fwiw, and I have no complaints. I also drive my car every day, and prefer that it be comfortable to drive. This is why I bought a new Dual-Mass Flywheel when I did my clutch. I'll eventually be buying adjustable rear control arms as well, because even at stock ride height (lots of potholes here in Buffalo), they're better than stock control arms, and I don't think anyone has bent the Mad Max ones yet (someone correct me if I'm wrong). That's my $0.02.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Thanks for the input hunTTsvegas, I'm not new to nodding and know there is the potential to mortgage the house for a show stopper, but that is not the end game. Out the box tune and lower for style and performance. I dont do a lot of driving, but on the occasion that I do a little driving, I want to enjoy it. Factoring $2600~3000 for upgrades. Also I keep reading about Mad max parts and is on the radar for control arms. There are various mods out there, diverter valves, TIP etc. Just wondering if it is worth it to enhance to tune. I understand down pipe, but the cost of not passing smog worried me.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

lite1979 said:


> As long as your motor and transmission are in tip-top shape, I would get the suspension sorted before anything else. Odds are, all the rubber pieces in your car are 12 years old, and they'll need refreshing anyway. Once the suspension is nice and quiet, you can focus on making more noise with an exhaust.
> 
> I have my APR stage 1 tune on stock exhaust, fwiw, and I have no complaints. I also drive my car every day, and prefer that it be comfortable to drive. This is why I bought a new Dual-Mass Flywheel when I did my clutch. I'll eventually be buying adjustable rear control arms as well, because even at stock ride height (lots of potholes here in Buffalo), they're better than stock control arms, and I don't think anyone has bent the Mad Max ones yet (someone correct me if I'm wrong). That's my $0.02.


Motor, trans and clutch are strong. Rear suspension feels a bit harsh and worn , so I know that I need to replace some things. How noticeable was the tune? They said there are no trials available, so either buy it or not. Would be cool if I could get a ride in a tuned 225


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I bought my car from my cousin @ 105k miles with the the 93 octane tune already installed. He had it tuned shortly after he bought the car @ 50k and loved the extra torque more than anything. I can't speak to the difference between the tune and stock performance.


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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

Before you dtart down the modding road, have you done a basic maintenance baseline? Very tough to know where to go if you don't know where you are. Has the TB/water pump been done? How old is the brake fluid and how are your pads/rotors? Vacume hoses good or original? Plugs and coil packs...old or fresh? Other suspension components..are they fresh or original?

Get your baseline established, do lots of research here and the other forums, then proceed. With your small budget, decide what is really important and invest your time/ money there.

Cheers


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Bought it from an Acura dealership with some maintenance records. I need to check why I smell oil burning. Can't seem to see any leaks. Was told could be the larger 225 turbo burns more oil. Just need to have that looked at. Thanks for the insight folks. Want it reliable, and fun drive, and turn a few heads.


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

The cartridge bearing for the k04 is the same as the one for the k03, neither one burns more oil than the other. If you smell oil burning and it's not coming from your exhaust, I would check the valve cover gasket, half-moon seal, and oil feed/return lines for leaks. Are you leaking on the ground at all?


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

No oil on the ground or the under tray. Start up each day start to drive and feel a little hesitation...not very smooth in the mornings. The rest of the time driving is perfect. Short drive, long drive...smell from the engine bay. I'm hoping just a simple gasket swap and I'm good. Oil doesn't run low either. Are the head gasket ans half moon simple to do arty home. I'm no stranger to working on cars...turbo cars are new me. I want driving it a lot that's why I hadn't got around to taking it anywhere. Now I drive it more and want to make sure I can keep driving it lol.
Thanks.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Just saw someone else with the same issue. Found a DIY, so I will look into doing this. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...sket-plus-cam-tensioner-gasket-half-moon-seal


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I did my valve cover gasket two years ago when I replaced my head gasket. The gasket set I got came with a new half moon seal, but it wasn't leaking, so I skipped it. I'm wishing now that I hadn't...


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Yeah, rule of thumb...replace it all while your in there. Looking up suspension components now...madmax adjustable arms and st coils.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

I agree with the rest of the guys here: learn a bit, establish a base line (i.e. get your car running good), mod at will.

When I got my car I looked into the basics: Hoses, Vacuum leaks, boost leaks, belts, rubber suspension parts, brakes.
Then when on to the luxury items lol: top / wind deflector operation, all systems working.
Then went on to modding: canned tune, DV, ST coils and wheels.

This never stops though... :facepalm:


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

I did do a visual and touch check on the hoses and all looked and felt really good. Didnt see or notice anything brittle, spongy, or cracked. Hoses looked to be in really good condition and the car pulls really strong. My only issue is the burning oil smell that has recently developed. I have put about 6500 miles on it since last January when I purchased it. Converted2VW how do you like the ST coils and how low do you have them set? I am not looking to dump it but want a nice fender to wheel hug front to rear without loosing the handling. My rear seems a bit stiff and can tell one of the shocks is going that is why I am looking to do the coils very soon. Overall, the car is amazing and looking forward to dumping money into making it my own style.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

I like the ST for the use I give the car (no track, drive about 8k miles per year).

I have friends that have driven/rode in the car and I have really positive comments. The ride is former than stock but is not harsh at all. Definitely a great middle point.

Here's a pic so you can see the low. Rears are all the way down with perches in and fronts still have a 6threads or so to go. These Wheels are 18" so you have an idea (I have swapped wheels since)










This ride height is fine with me as Houston roads are **** and I don't like rubbing / scrapping everywhere.


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## Billtt32 (Jun 18, 2013)

sik tl said:


> My apologies up front for the long post. I am starting this thread to gain knowledge so that I spend my money wisely the first time around. Getting ready to start modding my 225 and leaning towards APR stage 1. For those who have, is there a benefit to a catback exhaust when tuned only stage 1 or is it really recommend to have one prior to getting tuned. I am considering the relentless xs power 3 inch because of price (450) build quality and the amount of positive post on it. Any other cost effective options in socal? Also found a great deal on ST coilovers but understand that I will need adjustable rear control arms...looking for options there as well. I've read lots of threads and just looking to see if I'm going in the right direction...dont want to buy stuff just got the sake of buying stuff. Want to enhance performance and aesthetics without breaking the bank right out the gate. Anything missing from this short list? Thanks


I'm ordering coils and wheels this week. 

Hard to beat the price on Alzor wheels......I went with these 500.00 shipped ECS










I picked the Koni Coils, you can find them for under 1000. Adjustable, not fixed is the reason i went with them. 1150 series











I will add madmax arms
All bush replacement's
A r32 rear bar or similar 
stock front bar Mod'
I run Michelin as3 tires (awesome) 

I'm working from the ground up! (The right way to do it) 
Next round is DSG maint' Hal'dx maint. Maybe new upgraded clutch packs. 
Next is Fly wheel/timing replacement
Next is engine refresh/Turbo 
My goal is a semi-reliable 500HP DSG car in about one year. It will be retired as my Daily Driver in the next few months.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

⬆Talk about a thread jack⬆

Do your downpipe before the exhaust. The exhaust without a dp upgrade is next to pointless. I know your in CA but you can do a dp and CA legal cat and be fine with smog.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Converted2VW said:


> I like the ST for the use I give the car (no track, drive about 8k miles per year).
> 
> I have friends that have driven/rode in the car and I have really positive comments. The ride is former than stock but is not harsh at all. Definitely a great middle point.
> 
> ...


Converted2VW: LOVE that color!!!! Looks really good, but want to be a little lower than that. I thought the ST's went a little lower than that on the Quattro, maybe with Afco springs. 

Billtt32: I was looking at the Koni's, but didnt see too much about them. Where did you find them for under $1k? Guess ill need to look more and yes the Alzors caught my eye.

180dan: Yes 180, I was hoping that others could chime in so this is cool to help me with a point of reference. I would love a downpipe, but CA emissions worry me. Plus the amount of labor to take out and install a new one scares me.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

A DP and cat is a simple bolt on affair. You could do it yourself or pay someone an hour of labor. As long as it's a CA carb compliant cat, it's totally smog legal. And your talking double the power of a catback by itself. Plus if you get a modular cat/DP like 42 Draft Designs, you can go catless and catted for smog time.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

I have read horror stories of people needing to cut out their stock dp drop the subframe. Not true? I dont mind tackling a job that doesn't involve cutting or welding.


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## MCPaudiTT (Nov 26, 2006)

You will need to EITHER cut the OEM DP, OR drop the subframe. Not both. Many people are "scared" to drop a subframe - I don't understand why... Only valid reason is the bolts are one-time use and can get spendy if you do it alot.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Doesn't sound too bad. Will put that on the list for down the road. Basics first. Make sure engine is solid...apr tune...suspension...wheels...doggone...short shift...cupra lip or votex front. Right now having a hard time deciding on if I can or should try to pull off an 18x9.5 wheel I really like. Has a 35 et and I know will need spacers to fit.


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## Billtt32 (Jun 18, 2013)

180dan said:


> ⬆Talk about a thread jack⬆
> 
> Do your downpipe before the exhaust. The exhaust without a dp upgrade is next to pointless. I know your in CA but you can do a dp and CA legal cat and be fine with smog.




Yo' numb nut, i laid out my whole build idea because he asked for opinions. I laid out the products in-case he wants to research them. Thread jack??? Go buy your A** a pin the tail on the donkey kit. 

He said (just in case you can't read) 

"Also found a great deal on ST coilovers but understand that I will need adjustable rear control arms...*looking for options there as wel*l. I've read lots of threads and *just looking to see if I'm going in the right direction.*..don't want to buy stuff just got the sake of buying stuff. Want to enhance performance and aesthetics without breaking the bank right out the gate. *Anything missing from this short list*? Thanks"

For the OP, i would spend the extra 150.00 or so and get the Koni 1150 kit. It can be had for 1000.00 shipped. 
I think your getting a much better kit for the little extra $$$$ (Import racing parts)  Stay away from the company offering them for 990.00.


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## 180dan (Apr 4, 2011)

Billtt32 said:


> Yo' numb nut, i laid out my whole build idea because he asked for opinions. I laid out the products in-case he wants to research them. Thread jack??? Go buy your A** a pin the tail on the donkey kit.
> 
> He said (just in case you can't read)
> 
> ...


If you're just trying to help op out then give him some real info and not just show your papaya TT and the parts you want or bought. There are a million builds out there to look at. He wants to learn not learn about your car. Give him real info not what you have and why you bought it. And no, how much it cost is not real info. Numb nut? This is coming from someone with a papaya TT! :laugh:

Sorry for thread jacking. :facepalm:


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Fellow TT'ers I am enjoying the sharing and insight everyone is providing. Always interested in what others are doing to their cars and any way to help shave a few dollars of of my build is helpful. Any positive banter about cars is always welcome and appreciated. Let's not go the route of my prior roadster form and beat up on each other. Now 180dan and Billtt32, you guys hug it out.eace::heart:

I will be looking into the Koni, but had not seen a lot of people talking about them. Found BC for 900, but really not sure about them either. Guy says they are built to my request. 

Any input on 9.5 wheel fitment?


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## Billtt32 (Jun 18, 2013)

180dan said:


> If you're just trying to help op out then give him some real info and not just show your papaya TT and the parts you want or bought. There are a million builds out there to look at. He wants to learn not learn about your car. Give him real info not what you have and why you bought it. And no, how much it cost is not real info. Numb nut? This is coming from someone with a papaya TT! :laugh:
> 
> Sorry for thread jacking. :facepalm:


Man, what'a Douche Bag!


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## Tiero (Feb 13, 2007)

MCPaudiTT said:


> You will need to EITHER cut the OEM DP, OR drop the subframe. Not both. Many people are "scared" to drop a subframe - I don't understand why... Only valid reason is the bolts are one-time use and can get spendy if you do it alot.


You really can't put a new 1 piece dp in without either taking the axle out or lowering the sub frame. It will take more time than an hour OP I would say about 3 if you know what you're doing and your car has all the plastics on it still.


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## Billtt32 (Jun 18, 2013)

sik tl said:


> Fellow TT'ers I am enjoying the sharing and insight everyone is providing. Always interested in what others are doing to their cars and any way to help shave a few dollars of of my build is helpful. Any positive banter about cars is always welcome and appreciated. Let's not go the route of my prior roadster form and beat up on each other. Now 180dan and Billtt32, you guys hug it out.eace::heart:
> 
> I will be looking into the Koni, but had not seen a lot of people talking about them. Found BC for 900, but really not sure about them either. Guy says they are built to my request.
> 
> Any input on 9.5 wheel fitment?




I think for wheel spacing, you just need to measure to do it right. 

My starting point for 8.5" rims 1" drop..... 5mm front 20mm rear spacers, 225 tires.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Ok, got the valve cover gasket leak taken care of today. Hoses checked and no engine codes. Now on the hunt for wheels and suspension, strut towers are raised up front. Downpipe is being considered, but tune first. Want to feel the performance increases I'm phases as I go.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

I'd say that if you are going stage 1, then don't do the downpipe yet.
You can focus your money on the tune, a diverter valve and on to your suspension and wheels.

Thinking $ spent per hp gained, a stg1 tune is the most cost-effective mod for around $500

To extract full advantage of a stg2 tune, you'll need a DP ($400-600) and an upgraded intercooler ($600). You'll get additional hp but at a higher initial cost.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Converted2VW said:


> I'd say that if you are going stage 1, then don't do the downpipe yet.
> You can focus your money on the tune, a diverter valve and on to your suspension and wheels.
> 
> Thinking $ spent per hp gained, a stg1 tune is the most cost-effective mod for around $500
> ...


That's the plan. APR sale is going on now. Getting a deal on a diverter valve. DP and intercooler are down the road. I should definitely be happy with stage 1and suspension for a while. Gotta get used to driving it and appreciating the awd . Going to enjoy the rest of summer and will update with pics as parts go on.


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Well, the suspension parts are starting to arrive (ST's), waiting for the Afco's and new strut tower bushings. About to pick up a set of wheels 18x8.5 et35 18x9.5 et30 and thinking of running 215 and 225/40/18's. Hopefully that wont affect anything with the AWD system. Anyone have any tire size recommendations or am I ok with this?


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Little update on the car. Got the wheels fitted nicely with the spacers 12 rear and 15 up front. Just installed the coilovers and mangled the rear suspension bolt, so I spent yesterday drilling out the threads and installing nut and bolt combo on both sides. ST thread collar for one of the tears is tapered on the inside so just running springs in the rear for now until I get a new collar to raise it up from rubbing. 

Help needed her. On my way to SoCal Euro, my abs and the triangle in the circle lights both came on. Cleaned the sensor behind the drivers side wheel yesterday and started the car and lights are on right away.

Anyone had this before. I've read and it could be a multitude of reasons, but everything looks good visually. Please help. Thanks


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)




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## TTC2k5 (May 23, 2008)

hunTTsvegas said:


> 1) There is plenty of knowledge here and while most will offer it up, take the initiative to search and read as well. Most everything has been covered here or in other technical forums so knowing where to go for the information you're looking for will save you time.
> 
> 2) Best way to do that is to not skimp on price and actually buy quality parts to begin with. You see it too many times, "Got a _________ because of the price and now I have ___________ issue/problem/question/etc." Even more reputable companies have part failures but the difference lies in their reaction to a failure of their part. Also, opinions are great but it comes down to that balance of knowledge you have about the part vs how much you have to spend.
> 
> ...


This ^^^^.

Cheers


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## Boulderhead (Oct 21, 2012)

sik tl said:


> Help needed her. On my way to SoCal Euro, my abs and the triangle in the circle lights both came on. Cleaned the sensor behind the drivers side wheel yesterday and started the car and lights are on right away.
> 
> Anyone had this before. I've read and it could be a multitude of reasons, but everything looks good visually. Please help. Thanks


Yessir, happened to me as well. Had picked up some metal shavings on the magnetized wheel speed sensor and was seeing intermittent dash symbols. Cleaned both wheel speed sensors and problem solved (going on 6 months now).

Hope that helps


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Problem solved...abs sensor on passenger side was severed by the wheel. Couple of wire connectors some tape and a slight reroute and all good.


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## 91MK2Jetta (Jul 25, 2012)

you dont need to worry about the dp too much. any 2000 and up car doesn't need a sniffer smog anymore as long as the shop you take it to has the new DAD machine. mine passed with 3'' turbo back catless. just put my intake back to stock,dv,and anything else they could check under the hood. they only check visuals and monitors now:laugh:


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

:beer::thumbup:


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## sik tl (Nov 25, 2007)

Updates on the TT. ST coils are riding nicely, added camber plates up front and adjustable LCRs in the rear. Had a coolant leak so I replaced a flange. Replaced the fuel filter and timing belt and water pump. New axles and while that was being done, swapped in some new dog bone mount bushings. Got a UM tune and digging the new found power. Now looking to do the XS Power turbo back system. Haven't heard anything really bad except some past fitment issues that appear to have been worked out, so I figure I would support those underpaid Chinese workers.
Daily ride height


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