# MKIV R32 Engine Build



## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

So I had my MKIV R32 for sale for a few weeks, with a hydrolocked engine. Too many fake offers, and low offers. So I decided to keep the car, and build the engine. Here is my step by step build. 

Not really a step by step. I did not choose to show all the bolts and nuts, and locations, and how to remove. SO you'll see the major parts removed step by step (KINDA). I would have liked to do a detailed version, but anyway. Here is the beginning.














































Tools Required






















































And of course an engine stand and engine hoist.

Removed the oil pan to see the damage. Cylinder 2 rod bent.









Front end removed, intake manifold removed, coolant hoses and AC lines disconnected.

































Water Damage









Pushed all the wires to the side









Engine is finally out

















There she isssssssss

























Removed all the parts off the block. Front and back


















Removed the clutch, flywheel, valve cover, and timing chain covers.









Removed the head and set aside on the tool box









View of the engine block. You can see cylinder #2 has all the oil in it.









Engine block is stripped down


















































Engine Block is back from the machine shop...The piston rings, main cap bearings, and rod bearings have been replaced with all new parts. The pistons and rods were purchase from a vortex member with only 37,000 miles. They looked practically brand new when I got them. They were however cleaned and checked at the machine shop. The clearance between the cylinders and the pistons were within manufacturers specs.

These are the pistons and rods before the machine shop


























































These are the pistons and rods that I got. This was before they were sent out to the machine shop.

Cylinder Head has been rebuilt.


















Time for assembly

Parts arrived. A list of parts will be given at the end.

















New head gasket and head bolts











IMPORTANT MESSAGE

For anyone looking to do a build similar to this, on your own, make sure you have this oil non return valve after the machine shop is done working on it. 










Installed new front crank seal.









Used a socket that was real close to the diameter of the seal, and slowly tapped it in.


















Installed the front cover. I used the red gasket sealant. 

























Set the crank tool, and torque down the crank pulley. (I will post all torque specs at the end)










Set cylinder 1 to TDC, you can see the slit and the line match up near the crank. Also the drive gear (wear the flywheel bolts onto), there is only one ground tooth, it has to line up with the main cap mating line to the engine block (not shown).










Installed the oil pump drive, intermediate shaft, and intermediate shaft ring.

















Place the head gasket and then carefully line up the head bolt holes with the engine block head bolt holes. It helps to have an extra hand. I finally got it after 4 tries, my shirt kept kitting the gasket, and the head is real heavy and you don't want to drop that. Any build requires patience.





























This step is crucial. Part of the timing, involves the camshaft lobes for cylinder 1 exhaust and intake, to face each other. I had to take my head back to the machine shop because they had the cams backwards. If your confused on which camshaft is which, I called my local VW dealer, and gave them my VIN #, they verified for me. It is a 9 digit number, the last three differentiate by a digit. The exhaust cam shaft number ends in 102A, and the intake camshaft ends in 101C. It is located on the camshaft body, near the 32mm hex, where you would normally put an open end wrench to turn the cam. 
The camshaft adjusters are also interchangeable. The intake adjuster is 24E, and the exhaust adjuster is 32A. Its an idiot proof system.

The cam tool used was from Baum tools, for only $20.00. Its made of plexiglass. Unfortunately it didn't last too long. So I used it as reference to mock up the tool into Solidworks software, and I'm getting one made. Why pay over $100.00 for the metal version?










SO I used the 12V cam tool temporarily.









Flipped the engine over to install the oil pump. I should have done this first, but whatever.









Cleaned the oil filter housing with parts washer purchased at autozone.









Assembled the oil cooler and oil filter housing, and bolted back to the block.










Flipped the engine back around. Time to install the oil control housing. It is important to check the red seal (see second picture below). Mine was still good. 


















Also order a new chain rail. (located on the oil control housing)









Removed the camshaft adjusters to install the oil control housing.









Once the oil control housing is installed, the camshaft adjuster bolts were torqued. To do this, you can see I had to counter hold the camshaft using a 32mm open end wrench. 










Installed the accessory bracket, water pump and pulley, alternator, power steering pump and pulley, AC compressor.
Also installed the coolant water pipe with new o-rings.




























MORE TO COME. TIMING IS NEXT












Here are some pictures to enjoy...

Cleaned the flywheel myself.

















Before transmission cleaning









After cleaning

















I cleaned it one more time, I will have pics soon


Audi B7 License Plate Frame









Let there be light. Installed two of them. You can see it in the back.









Who said you need a shop to do the work?


















All my cars over time.

2000 Jetta GLX 5 Spd


























2001 Jetta GLX automatic. Bought this at the same time as the one with the GTI front. Built both simultaneiously. One was at home, the other one was at my job. Bought this one with a timing chain rail broken. 


































2001 Jetta GLX. Two years ago









This one also went under some work. Bought it with a blown motor. There was a hole in the block. 


















2001 Honda Prelude Type SH. This is what I was driving while fixing both of the above Jettas.


















SOLD ALL THE CARS ABOVE. Got married, then got this original owner 2003 GLI 24V.
Purchased with 88,000 miles. Sold at 91,000 miles for the R.


















Now this one


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Now is the chance to give the bay a real makeover and bring the baby back to the 21st century. 
Steve


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

sTT eV6 said:


> Now is the chance to give the bay a real makeover and bring the baby back to the 21st century.
> Steve


 yup, once the motor is out, going to power wash the bay. clean it up.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Glad you didnt sell it or scrap it:thumbup: One more r32 that will stay in the hands of an owner that will fix her haha:laugh:


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)




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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Good progress:thumbup:


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

02vwgolf said:


> Good progress:thumbup:


 thanks.


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## vr6fanatic (Apr 5, 2003)

:thumbup: Keep us updated:thumbup:


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## albaneg (Apr 23, 2004)

Awesome.... really glad that you did not scrap it.


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## ebro (Apr 3, 2009)

that looks awesome, good luck:thumbup:


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

ebrown520 said:


> that looks awesome, good luck:thumbup:



thanks, you still have the jetta?


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## 02awp18705 (Jan 19, 2009)

gl with the rebuild . What are your plans for the engine ?


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

honestly, just keeping it stock, just to keep it simple.


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## ebro (Apr 3, 2009)

boraspecvr6 said:


> thanks, you still have the jetta?


 yes i do, still running stong:thumbup: ill trade it back to you for the finished R


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

ebrown520 said:


> yes i do, still running stong:thumbup: ill trade it back to you for the finished R


LOL, that would be loss on my end. I'm glad you still have the car. If you need anything, you know where to reach me.


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## ebro (Apr 3, 2009)

boraspecvr6 said:


> LOL, that would be loss on my end. I'm glad you still have the car. If you need anything, you know where to reach me.


haha it was worth a shot, (it does have a brand new trans) and ill probably be looking for things once i get some money together:thumbup:


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## fourthchirpin (Nov 19, 2004)

usually a hydro locked motor has a bent rod you should get the head and crank checked by a machine shop.


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## haf1zur (Feb 20, 2006)

feel for you

i had a hydrolocked engine

one of the rods snapped in half

two others were bent

had the crank and the case checked but they were fine

not sure about US r32's but the UK MKIV's had a forged crank which was good


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Yea my next step is to take all the parts to a machine shop.


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## WRCR32 (Feb 22, 2012)

Great to see this rebuild. I look forward to seeing the progress.


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## vr6fanatic (Apr 5, 2003)

Now is also a good time to replace (if need be) Alternator, Starter. Etc...


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

vr6fanatic said:


> Now is also a good time to replace (if need be) Alternator, Starter. Etc...


 Yea thats true, but I dont need the extra expense. I will double check that before the nose goes on.


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## 02vwgolf (Oct 6, 2009)

Wow that rod had like a perfect wave to it haha:laugh: atleast when its back together you will know you wont have to do anymore maintenance for a while:thumbup:


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## DRedman45 (Aug 7, 2009)

I have never seen a rod bend like that without breaking...good luck with the rebuild...its a good opportunity for some lower compression and boost


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

DRedman45 said:


> I have never seen a rod bend like that without breaking...good luck with the rebuild...its a good opportunity for some lower compression and boost


I hear you, but i dont have the budget for that right now, i have twin baby girls!!!

I might , not sure, do a wire tuck though


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## diazc1983 (Apr 17, 2012)

*Help r32*

to boraspecvr6 i have an 04 vw r32 blown head gasket i need help man i want to do it ny self but i need info on torques specs on headbolt, timing and how to i would appreciate the hel man u can contact me at [email protected] hope to hear from u man thanks


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

diazc1983 said:


> to boraspecvr6 i have an 04 vw r32 blown head gasket i need help man i want to do it ny self but i need info on torques specs on headbolt, timing and how to i would appreciate the hel man u can contact me at [email protected] hope to hear from u man thanks


I will send you an email later tonight.


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## cdbusby (Aug 4, 2011)

Looks good so far! Gonna follow this thread out of curiosity, and in case I ever need to do it


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Finally done with college!!!! Now I can focus on the R32. Been apart for 4 months, the block and head should be complete in another two weeks. Will post more pics.


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## tractorsosa (Aug 19, 2009)

boraspecvr6 said:


> So its been a while. I am still waiting on the engine to be finished. I apparently regret taking it to the engine shop I first took it to. I now have taken it to a friend of mine. He deals with STi's, Evos', R35 Skylines, and builds motors ground up. Since the last time I was on, I was busy finishing up with school, (graduated), and taking care of my twins. So I managed to take the transmission out, and the transfer case, (only half the transfer case). I have to jack the car up high enough to access the three bolts that are holding the driveshaft to the flex disk, which is then bolted onto the transfer case. Take a look...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


to be honest with u, its the first time i see somebody remove the half of the transfer case.. i always and i think most of the r32 owners remove it completely rotating the drive shaft by hand to get access to the rear bolts(3 ) 12 point socket 10mm if im not wrong but could be 12mm or 11mm not quiet sure about the mesasure but , as far it works for u its ok, just dont forget to top off ur tranny fluid or replace it since its already out.. gl:wave:


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Hey trac, I know what you mean, but the car was on the ground, I don't have a lift. When I had the engine held with the engine hoist, I did not dare go under the engine hanging freely, to unbolt the driveshaft from the transfer case. I don't want to be that guy that got crushed with a fallen engine, lol. But once I remove the other half, I will bolt everything back up, put in new seals, and top of the tranny. How much fluid does it take? Since the transfer case and transmission is empty at this time.


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

How did you remove the timing chain cover? I'm having so much trouble separating that


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

the transmission has to come out. the valve cover has to come off. make sure all the bolts holding the cover come off. the rear chain tensioner bolt als has to come out. there are two hex bolts that are upside down, towards the middle section. hope this helps


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

StayFatlaceMK3 said:


> How did you remove the timing chain cover? I'm having so much trouble separating that


 
also, the cam sensor seals might be stuck onto the sensor itself, slowly pry it, making sure not to damage the sensor. the seals are inserted into the upper chain cover.


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

ok thanks man, i got it off a few days ago but no i just have to take all the head bolts out and i need to order the 12mm triple square tool to remove i right? what did you use?


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

StayFatlaceMK3 said:


> ok thanks man, i got it off a few days ago but no i just have to take all the head bolts out and i need to order the 12mm triple square tool to remove i right? what did you use?


 Yes you need the triple square. I was a mechanic for VW and Mercedes, so that tool was your best friend...anything else, let know.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

StayFatlaceMK3 said:


> ok thanks man, i got it off a few days ago but no i just have to take all the head bolts out and i need to order the 12mm triple square tool to remove i right? what did you use?


 what are you doing to your engine?


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

Thanks! I just ordered that and that's it for now. Ill let you know if I need anything else


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

Where did you get it cleaned?


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

I live in queens. There is a machine shop called Magnum Machine Shop. Excellent shop, good people, honest, trustworthy...


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## One_Off_Volk (Nov 30, 2011)

boraspecvr6 said:


> I live in queens. There is a machine shop called Magnum Machine Shop. Excellent shop, good people, honest, trustworthy...


If you don't mind me asking, how much was it?


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Well the thing is, I had to take my engine to two engine shops, the first shop took way too long, I had to pay them to get my engine back, because of the work they did. I pretty much took back the engine the way I gave it to them. The second shop, Magnum, they had to re-do and re-check everything, I pretty much gave them everything and it cost me $1000.00. All that was left to do was assemble.


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## Bryan-euroho (Nov 9, 2010)

Very nice, im curious to see how much all this ends up costing since im anticipating a rebuild on my high mile .:R


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Bryan-euroho said:


> Very nice, im curious to see how much all this ends up costing since im anticipating a rebuild on my high mile .:R


Well the first machine that dicked me cost me $900.00. The second shop was $1024.00, the piston rings cost $600.000, the used rods and pistons cost $390.00. If it werent for that $900.00, I would be in the area of what I expected to spend. Plus I ordered $700.00 worth of parts for the assembly, gaskets, timing chain kit, seals, head bolts, etc. I still have to order a clutch kit. Then I still need to buy the fluids to refill the tranny, rear Haldex filter change, etc. New Brakes and new tires all around.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

boraspecvr6 said:


> Well the first machine that dicked me cost me $900.00. The second shop was $1024.00, the piston rings cost $600.000, the used rods and pistons cost $390.00. If it werent for that $900.00, I would be in the area of what I expected to spend. Plus I ordered $700.00 worth of parts for the assembly, gaskets, timing chain kit, seals, head bolts, etc. I still have to order a clutch kit. Then I still need to buy the fluids to refill the tranny, rear Haldex filter change, etc. New Brakes and new tires all around.


That still exclude coils and spark plugs, thats another $200 or so...


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## BigWEEVER (Aug 22, 2011)

In for the haul opcorn:


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## Sn0wMaN (May 26, 2003)

Watching opcorn:


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Sn0wMaN said:


> Watching opcorn:


 Thanks for following this thread. I have a lot of pictures, I am just sorting them out, so i can show my steps on the build.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

Hope everyone enjoyed the updated pictures. Plenty more to come.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

bump


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## tractorsosa (Aug 19, 2009)

good job bud, keep us posted


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

tractorsosa said:


> good job bud, keep us posted


Thanks, the car is back together, runs really healthy, got lazy to post the rest of the pictures, lol,


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## AustinVaughan (Aug 23, 2008)

Good stuff opcorn:


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

AustinVaughan said:


> Good stuff opcorn:


Thanks


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## MR R32 (Mar 29, 2012)

nice stuff keep it moving 

:thumbup: to fellow ny dubber


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## vr6fanatic (Apr 5, 2003)

Any updates? Looking good!


Laz


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## tg60dd (Nov 23, 2005)

After he finished the install and got it running I saw it in the classifieds section for sale so I assume
he sold it. I doubt any updates will come.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

tg60dd said:


> After he finished the install and got it running I saw it in the classifieds section for sale so I assume
> he sold it. I doubt any updates will come.


If anyone needs pictures or description of something I'm more than happy to share it.


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## tg60dd (Nov 23, 2005)

I think the reason most people were wanting to see it continue was to have a thread with a "start to finished" documented rebuild. Your thread could be a great source on the text as reference for yrs to come.
Not much info in the 3.2 24V technical section.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

tg60dd said:


> I think the reason most people were wanting to see it continue was to have a thread with a "start to finished" documented rebuild. Your thread could be a great source on the text as reference for yrs to come.
> Not much info in the 3.2 24V technical section.


Gotcha. Ill work on it for that reason then. Just that when the car was finished, I landed a job, and really didn't get back to finishing the post. I might redo the entire post then.


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## bdfcorrado (Feb 3, 2006)

this tread should be a sticky!


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## smalls7552 (Mar 11, 2013)

nice build man bring the r32 up to water fest


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

smalls7552 said:


> nice build man bring the r32 up to water fest


I'd rather just sell it man, I would have to tow it, it's not registered


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## bdfcorrado (Feb 3, 2006)

do you still have the parts number list and the torque specs of what was done?


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## rhcp4life (Apr 12, 2011)

Pics


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## vr6fanatic (Apr 5, 2003)

boraspecvr6 said:


> I'd rather just sell it man, I would have to tow it, it's not registered


 Just Keep it!


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

boraspecvr6 said:


> Gotcha. Ill work on it for that reason then. Just that when the car was finished, I landed a job, and really didn't get back to finishing the post. I might redo the entire post then.


 Nice rebuild and plenty of dedication. 
Not all build threads are on the technical section.. 
Steve


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

bdfcorrado said:


> do you still have the parts number list and the torque specs of what was done?


 Sorry I havnt been on for a while. All the specs were from the VW dealer. My friends still work there from when I was a VW Tech.


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## boraspecvr6 (Jun 17, 2005)

vr6fanatic said:


> Just Keep it!


 SOLD three months ago.


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## Stylist07 (Mar 6, 2010)

*R32 Engine Build*

I PMed u :wave:


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## wesley rsa (Aug 27, 2014)

*Sticky camshaft adjusters*

I hope some can help me with the following

Vehicle details : VW Jetta 4 V5 2.3L 20V 2001 model
Engine : AQN

I have recently replaced all timing chains, chain tensioners and guide rails, Gaskets, Seals, Piston Rings due to engine sludge.

After assembling the motor and checking all the timing marks over and over, When rotating the motor clockwise by hand to check that nothing is out of order I noticed that the cam adjustors are sticking. When the motor is turned over the cams seem to stick at certain intervals but automatically jump back into position, its as if the cams are stuck in the cam adjusters and at certain intervals release and jump back into position, even after turning the motor over about 30 times all the timing marks are still correct. Therefore the timing chain is not jumping the sprockets and offsetting the timing. 

The TDC mark on piston 1 is correct, the marks on the intermediate shaft/sprocket are correct as well as the marks on the chain showing the 16 links between the camshaft adjusters and the marks on the Valve timing housing.

The cams are also in the correct position, using a plate at the rear of the cams to keep them in position, during initial timing setup.

I had to remove the camshaft adjusters to clean out all the sludge and was wondering could this be because of no oil pressure in the camshaft adjusters ,that its sticking?

If anybody can assist me with this or had a similar issue...PLEASE HELP


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Sludge in the adjusters is a bad thing, strip and clean them out.
Steve


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## wesley rsa (Aug 27, 2014)

Hello Steve

I have already stripped the camshaft adjusters and cleaned them out, this is why I am asking could it be oil pressure causing my issue


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

Are your VVT solenoids working ok?
Steve


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## wesley rsa (Aug 27, 2014)

Hello Steve

Well before I stripped the engine to remove the sludge I used vag com to test the solenoids and tested ok, I have applied voltage to the solenoids as well and they expand and contract as normal, I have stripped and cleaned them as well including the housing they bolt onto and cleaned the fine mesh filter. 

The motor as I said has been completely redone, and has not started as yet due to the slipping issue on the adjusters, only been rotated by hand so I presume there are quit a lot of components that have not been lubricated by the oil pressure, however all components were lubricated by hand to ensure no parts stick or grind on each other.

However I did find the following today, not sure if it could be the cause as I have not re assembled yet to test, but what I found was that the tensioner bolt the screws in on the side of the engine that pushes against the one guide was not bled as per posts on the web. It was able to be compressed by hand. After compressing the tensioner bolt in oil a few times until all the air bubbles came out it became much harder to compress by hand, much harder. So I am not sure if there wasn't enough pressure on the timing chain causing this issue.

So to recap, I rechecked all the timing marks, including the brass links on the timing chain and the arrows on the adjusters are corresponding to the notches on the housing unit. I have cleaned the camshaft adjusters as they look like they came out of the box and cleaned the solenoids and there housing unit. 

All the timing marks are correct and there is no slack on the timing chain, except where I must install the tensioner bolt. I have also pre loaded the camshaft adjuster as noted on a few online manuals.

I will post once I have installed the housing that holds the tensioner bolt, and once I have installed the tensioner bolt as well..HOLDING THUMBS THAT IT WAS MY ISSUE


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## wesley rsa (Aug 27, 2014)

Well all is ok now. It was the Tensioner Bolt that was not bled with oil causing the problem, After bleeding the bolt all was working 100%eace:


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## 24vGTiVR6 (Sep 14, 2010)

Hmm interesting. I didn't bleed my upper tensioner the last few times I tore down my motor and all was well...... 

Fingers crossed that's all it was for you though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sTT eV6 (Oct 26, 2010)

When I've stripped my mota in the past I've just put the hydraulic tensioner in a cup of engine oil
I think these engines look straight forward but there are some special features that need to be dialled in correctly.
Steve


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