# Aircooled beetle stereo, speaker selections



## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

I am in the process of piecing together a stereo for my 62 bug. Trying to keep it low key. Going to be using a Sony amp that is modified to run 6v electronics. Link to amp with specifications. 

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=796241 

I am going to build a suitcase for the rear luggage compartment. This will house 2 speakers, but I am not sure what to put back there. 6x9 or 6.5's. Budget is no more than $150 shipped to my door. Looking for good sound with a bit of punch to it. I think components would look better in the suitcase, aesthetics is important to me in this install. 

Fronts will have speakers mounted on a lower parcel tray. Probably do a 4" or 5.25" up front. Same budget as rear speakers. Not sure if components are worth it up front as they will be mounted so low. No where to mount a tweeter up top. 

Music will be supplied to the amp via the latest ipod touch, this will be docked in a cradle in the ashtray with an external volume control. 

Any speaker suggestions would be great. Local selections are not really that great. Mostly best buy or the like. Planning on ordering online. 

Thanks


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## John Reid (Jun 30, 2010)

Some thoughts... Bear with me, a bit long... 

I don't know if you've already bought the amp, _but_...

- I assume you want to keep the car 6 volt for the "rareness" appeal, as opposed to using a 6 - 12V converter? For what it's worth, I did a search and saw this thread on diyAudio that relates closely to what you're doing, and mentions the specific amp you're looking at, pros/cons of the whole idea:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/164236-6v-amp-mod.html

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- Is that amplifier the only option you have?

I ask since that Sony product line is infamous for being unreliable (the name "Xplod" is ominously appropriate, in my past experience as an installer in my college days), and the price seems high for it. This could be due to whatever conversion was made, but there's definitely a serious mark-up going on (the original price of the now discontinued Sony XM-554ZR was $129, can be found online now for @ $60, refurbished).

I have an address of one of the engineers of the killer, old school Sound Stream Reference line amplifiers produced in the mid '90s, that may be able to help you out (for example, he can convert any amp to class A)... meaning that you could maybe buy whatever amp was in your budget (used, etc.), and see if he could refurbish it and convert it to 6V for you. This dude knows what he's doing, worth an email at the least.

WADE STEWART
STEWART ELECTRONICS CORPORATION

8513 ELM AVE
ORANGEVALE, CA.
95662
916-988-0406
email: [email protected]
web site: fatpro.com
alternate email: [email protected]
DBA: FATPRO TECHNOLOGIES

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- As far as I recall, there is the possibility of installing the front speakers in the footwell area of that VW, which would produce a great sound stage with a little effort. 










Red circles as one mounting option, turquoise as another? It could be done without messing with the stock look, if some forethought was used.

A brand I'm a _huge_ fan of is Hybrid Audio Technologies (HAT). Exceptional sound/build quality for reasonable prices (for reference, since the '90s I've owned the flagship lines of Focal, a/d/s/, Morel). 

But, their lowest range (Imagine series) is a little over your budget, at $219. They can be used as components or coaxially:

http://store.12velectronics.com/categories/Hybrid-Audio-Technologies/Imagine/

Or you could check out the HAT forums classified section for some sweet gear:

http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=12

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- Have you thought about using an 6" or 8" midbass/sub for the rear instead? I'm personally not a fan of rear fill, as I feel it draws the ear back too much, so that's why I suggested using a 6" or 8" running mono as a sub, using the compartment as an enclosure.

At any rate, good luck!eace:


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## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

I have already purchased the amp, was aware of its mark up, but felt it was my best choice at the time. I will keep Wades contact on file, I plan to own the car for many years, who knows how it will transform.

There are kick panel on the market, made from fiberglass. I have seen them covered in matching carpet, and it doesn't look too bad. The picture you posted shows the tray I want to add to the car. My plan was to mount the speakers in the 2 outside sections. I want mount them in the tray facing the driver. I have seen this done with 6.5" speakers. There is a good amount of space. Not sure which method would sound better, but I like how I can just remove the tray and the car goes back to stock. 

Seems subwoofers can be had cheaper than speakers. Leaves more to spend on the fronts. Most suitcases suitable to mount a sub in are around 6-8" in depth. I don't think this will pose any problems for building the box. 

What would a suitable subwoofer be for this amp?


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## John Reid (Jun 30, 2010)

Take what I'm about to say with a grain of salt; I'm an audio freak, so I want to wring as much as I can out of my gear, and put the effort into getting it there. My wife has to sometimes remind me that most people just want to listen to a CD and be done with it.

That said...

Kick panels will be generally easier to get sounding good, since there will be longer & more equal path length distances (or "PLD" -- the distance from the speaker to your ears). Similar theory to the sweet spot you can get in a home system, where you sit in the center of 2 speakers.

So, with a kick panel install, the difference in distance from the driver side speaker as opposed to the passenger side speaker will be less, allowing for a more focused stereo image and an illusion of width. You could also mount them so that they would be able to be uninstalled without any cutting. 

Also, if there are pre-made kicks available, the maker may have put time into aiming the speakers to get that nice stereo image, which makes your life easier.

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You _can_ do the tray mount idea... for example, a lot of competitors use tweeters and 3" or 4" midrange drivers mounted in the a-pillars with spectacular results (I will do the same eventually)... but it's much more work to make it sound "right".

This is due to the PLD difference between the driver side and passenger side being *much* more pronounced. 

You could mount the speakers "off axis" (facing each other), as opposed to"on-axis" (facing the driver), and have them sound great, but it all depends on the acoustics of the car they're in...it's really different for every car. 

The relative openness of the bug you have may make it feasible. You could test just by using towels as a makeshift enclosure until you get the positioning right, then make enclosures.

Aside from the time put into speaker aiming, you will need to lower the output of the speaker closer to you so that it doesn't over power the speaker farther from you (if that makes sense). This is easier to do with a multi-amp system, or a system with DSP, but not so much with the amp you're going to use (unless it allows for channel-specific gain adjustment).

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As far as 6" or 8" subs, JL Audio makes a 6" & an 8", Image Dynamics makes an 8", and, my fav company, HAT, has a 6" sub in their "Imagine" line that due to be on the market soon (and you can find some gear floating around the forum link I posted earlier).

Anyway, hope this helped a bit, and good luck!


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## corymnr (Jun 2, 2008)

i wouldnt attempt it with the 6v system, all it will do is kill the battery and cause damage to the generator, i would seriously consider going 12v, i do have alot of experience with the aircooled vdubs, the 6v system just cant handle it, the generators take about 10 miles of driving at highway speed to recharge the battery to starting condition. just seriously not recommended


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## Danno13 (Mar 25, 2004)

John, once again thank you for your time. I have since looked further into kick panels, and many comment on how well they sound. If covered with carpet and a plain black speaker grille is used, they are fairly unnoticeable. 

The amp has been tested running 6v, at a fairly loud level running 2 speakers it draws a whopping 3amps. No one using this amp has ever complained about excessive draw on the 6V system.

"3 speakers: 150 W × 2 (at 2 OHMS) + 300 W × 1 (BTL, at 4 OHMS)" Would I be right assuming this means the peak power? Any idea what one would expect for rms rating?


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