# Golf Mk1 1.3 Idling problem



## BRINZ (Mar 3, 2012)

Golf Mk1 
1300cc
GF Engine Code

Hi there,

Wondering if anyone can help me.

My car starts on the choke, no problem at fast idle. However, if I take the choke off and start the car, it starts, idles for 5 seconds and cuts out. I cannot find a what the problem is and quite frustrated.

I have done the following so far:

1. Ignition coil voltage checked, ok
2. Fuel lines clear. Removed the fuel gauge and checked for corrosion in tank.
3. Mechanical fuel pump is working fine.
4. Contact point / breakers replaced and gap adjusted as per the manual spec.
5. All spark plug leads ok
6. Cylinder head gasket and all other gaskets replaced due to blown head gasket between #1 & #2 cylinder. Timing belt installed correctly and all timing marks line up.
7. Earth (-ve) checked and cleaned. No corroded or damaged battery terminals.
8. Carb fuel cut off solenoid replaced with a new one
9. Original carb replaced with an identical one and earthed. Solex 34 PICT 6
10. Firing order ok
11. Spark plug gap adjusted
12. Distributor condensor replaced
13. Carb gasket which sits on inlet manifold checked, no leak
14. Brake servo disconnected and inlet manifold port capped, no difference
15. +ve supply from battery taken direct to +ve port of ignition coil to bypass ballast resistor and resistive wire, no difference
16. Fuel / air mixture of carb ok
17. All jets in carb checked and clear
19. Crankcase breather checked and is clear

There is no fuel problem. The engine is receiving the fuel for combustion. I don't know if it could be to do with the distributor or ignition coil. But why would the car start on choke if these were faulty?

Appreciate your expert advise in guiding me in the right direction. This is the only issue I have with my car.

Thanks for your help & support.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

BRINZ said:


> Golf Mk1
> 1300cc
> GF Engine Code
> 
> ...


OK, starts on choke, but will it stay running while on choke or does it also die in a few seconds? Also, if you start it off choke and keep your foot on the pedal does it stay running?

#8. You mean the idle air cut-off valve? Have you checked the power to the valve? If there is no voltage the valve will close off idle air so it has to have power while running.
#9. Thought it used a 34 PICT-5?
#16. How have you checked the air/fuel mixture?

Doubt the ignition is an issue if it does start, but first the above. Just as a side note, I would dump the carburetor and switch to either a Mono-Jetronic set-up or go full out to EFI (Digijet or Digifant). The Mono-Jetronic conversion would be easy and not cost much either.


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## BRINZ (Mar 3, 2012)

Hi there,

Thanks for the response.

When the choke is on, the engine will not cut off. If I start it without the choke and hold the accelerator the engine does keep running but on high rev. it only cuts out when it tries to idle. 

Yes, ref #8, air cut-off valve. I have checked the voltage and I do get a constant 12volt supply will the engine is running.

As per the Haynes manual, it refers to 34 PICT-5, however my one has a 34 PICT-6. I have checked other forums and some owners do have the 34 PICT-6 installed to their 1300cc GF engines.

I checked the air / fuel mixture using a color tune equipment. I get the blue flame.

I see Solex carbs do not have a very good reviews and usually get replaced with other branded carbs.

Can you advise what model number Mono-Jetronic carb I need for my 1.3 GF engine and where is the best place to get hold of one?

Thanks a lot for your help.


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## BRINZ (Mar 3, 2012)

Idling issue sorted. It was a combination of problems.
The wire between the coil and condensor had an internal break which is not visible to the eye. I only noticed it with my test lamp. Never thought this would be the case as externally the wire looks in good condition. Valuable lesson.
There was a very thin split of the rubber gasket which the carburetor sits on.
Finally, when I adjusted the points, the bearing plate was off so I had easy access. Noticed when the bearing plate is put back on, it alters the points gap as the distributor shaft is pushed into a more central position. Adjust the points with the bearing plate on, only undo the retaining screws, and turn the plate until you are able to slide in the filler gauge. Quite tricky, just have to be patient.
Then adjusted the static timing again using a test lamp. Runs sweet now.

Now I have a new problem. The 1st, 2nd and 4th gear engages fine. The 3rd gear pops out after pushing it in and lifting the clutch. If I hold it in, its fine. Also the reverse gear does not go in. Even if the engine is off. I think it may be due to the gap between the finger and plate. If not, then it may be the bushes of the gear linkage.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

BRINZ said:


> Now I have a new problem. The 1st, 2nd and 4th gear engages fine. The 3rd gear pops out after pushing it in and lifting the clutch. If I hold it in, its fine. Also the reverse gear does not go in. Even if the engine is off. I think it may be due to the gap between the finger and plate. If not, then it may be the bushes of the gear linkage.


Worn parts, bushings and finger as you state, are one common reason for what you have. Another is that it needs a good adjustment done which is very common of the engine or transmission were moved for any reason. Be happy that your car is much more simple than something like a Mk2 with all it's rods and levers. There is a tool you can buy to center the shifter while doing the work under the car, but I just think about what is not working and do small adjustment to try and correct it (works most times in two or three tries). You have to study the diagram, drawing, of the shifter and remember the movement directions when under the car or it could get messy.


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