# Aba turbo not running 100%



## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

Okay guys after a LONG 2 years of this build I'm kinda at a stand still.

So to make a long story short I have a stage 2 c2 tune. Green tops, lower CR, 268 cam, etc. running a Precision 5431e externally gated. 

My issue is the car, after a small rev or pressing the clutch the car with sometimes fall on his face and die. I suspected a vacuum/boost leak so I finally made a leak tester and squared the small leaks I had away. Holds boost better now but still shuts off when coming to a red light, stop sign, etc.

I only have 2 check engine codes: one for n80 Evap valve which is in the garbage, and cam pos sensor which may be the cause? But will my distributor timing being off a tad cause this? 

Just looking for some insight. The car idles like a ****ing top. Right at 900 rpms. Sounds amazing. Would love to get this squared away though


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## xpalendocious (Nov 28, 2003)

definitely fix the distributor timing first to get rid of the fault code. 

Are you venting your BOV to atmosphere or recirculating it back into the intake?


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

xpalendocious said:


> definitely fix the distributor timing first to get rid of the fault code.
> 
> Are you venting your BOV to atmosphere or recirculating it back into the intake?


Okay so no more check engine codes other than Evap (n80 valve) timing is dead on. Hasn't died but still falling on its face


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## readytosoar (Dec 9, 2007)

diverter must be back into intake and light flywheel? those tunes HATE light flywheels


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## the mad conductor (Nov 12, 2009)

readytosoar said:


> diverter must be back into intake and light flywheel? those tunes HATE light flywheels


flywheel has nothing to do with a tune.


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## xpalendocious (Nov 28, 2003)

Lwfw matters when it won't catch an idle.


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

Okay so car is on time. Cam position code went away when i lined up the dist better. Only down to the EVAP n80 code.

Now the car wont idle at all. Slowly chocks out after 5 seconds of the car being on. tried new TB, aligning it. Tried adjusting the throttle cable. Tried unplugging the MAF. Not really much of a difference. Then the car wouldnt even run. MAF is getting a pretty accurate reading on VAG-COM. The car runs and drives mint. Pulls hard, hits boost, will vacuum down when I let off. Once i step on the clutch. BOOM. done. Even if i let it Rev down to almost idle then step on the clutch it will still shut off. 


:facepalm::screwy:


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

Also NO light weight flywheel. However VAG-COM was reading both values in one of the measuring blocks set to BTDC 6.0 degrees. both values read this, which from what I understand is okay? Dont really understand it, but I was using a aftermarket flywheel.


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Could be that your clutch isn't fully releasing when you press the pedal?


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

groundupjetta said:


> Could be that your clutch isn't fully releasing when you press the pedal?


does it in neutral when the car is rev'd up. falls on its face and dies. 

So quick update. the car starts. finds idle and then i can literally count to 8 and by the number 8 the car is off.

Stuck injector?
FPR? 
I'm CERTAIN i dont have vaccum leaks, but the symptoms are consistant with one no?


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## groundupjetta (Feb 1, 2010)

Do you have a AFR gauge? That would show it getting rich before stalling if you have a stuck injector or leaning out if you had lack of fuel. How about the fuel filter, has it been replaced recently?


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## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Is the throttle body nice and clean?

How much are you pressurizing the intake. Dont go by the gauges on the compressor, go by the one on the car.

Is the tune calibrated for the bigger cam?

Check for exhaust leaks as well. Use Seafoam and a rag stuffed in the exhaust to create some backpressure.

Is the airfilter directly attached to the MAF, as that will cause unstable g/s readings.

How/what is the setup on your crankcase vent?

One last thing,

With the engine off for at least 8 hours, hook up the VAGCOM and look at the CLT and IAT numbers. If those dont match within a few degrees, and are relatively close to ambient, there is an issue. I have seen once before an IAT sensor that didnt throw a code, but had illogically numbers causing a stalling issue similar to what you describe.


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

http://youtu.be/sJxWX6K0q9A

Here's a quick video of what it's doing. Don't mind the flashing coolant light I deleted the bubble and forgot to resist the sensor.


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## 4-door crap rabbit (Sep 4, 2001)

start the car, rev it, let it die. pull plugs and check for any that are wet with fuel. check air temp and coolant temp values, as stated earlier. the part where you hit the clutch and it dies is kind of baffling.. can you watch the rpm (engine speed sensor) in vag com and see if when you hit the clutch, anything strange happens? like, the value falls off before the engine actually winds down? 

I'm also curious what would happen if you scoped the engine speed sensor, but that's not something everybody has...


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

Okay so I defiantly feel like it's getting way to much fuel and can't cut it back quick enough when falling to idle which lead me to hooking up a better boost gauge to find when it is idling it's holding at -12 vacuum. About 5-8 psi below what it should be. Cars most likely reading X amount at the maf and getting Y amount into the motor no? I pulled the plugs and they looked healthy but defiantly on the darker side and smelled very gassy so back to hunting a vaccine leak


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

Okay so I defiantly feel like it's getting way to much fuel and can't cut it back quick enough when falling to idle which lead me to hooking up a better boost gauge to find when it is idling it's holding at -12 vacuum. About 5-8 psi below what it should be. Cars most likely reading X amount at the maf and getting Y amount into the motor no? I pulled the plugs and they looked healthy but defiantly on the darker side and smelled very gassy so back to hunting a vacuum leak


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## 4-door crap rabbit (Sep 4, 2001)

KyleRI said:


> Okay so I defiantly feel like it's getting way to much fuel and can't cut it back quick enough when falling to idle which lead me to hooking up a better boost gauge to find when it is idling it's holding at -12 vacuum. About 5-8 psi below what it should be. Cars most likely reading X amount at the maf and getting Y amount into the motor no? I pulled the plugs and they looked healthy but defiantly on the darker side and smelled very gassy so back to hunting a vaccine leak


It's all well and good to "feel" like your car has x problem, except that it can lead you to look for the wrong solution. That said, I agree that it is running too rich, especially if you pull the plugs and they smell like gas.

when you say -12 vacuum, you're talking inches of mercury, yes? depending on your cam, that may not be a problem- what are you basing your idea of that reading being too low on?

Your idea about having a vacuum leak causing too much fuel is incorrect- if you had a vacuum leak, the engine would be drawing unmetered air in, and the computer would think it needed less fuel and therefore it would run lean. 

do you have access to any scan tool that will tell you how many g/s of air is entering the engine at idle?


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

Yep I have Vag-com IIRC it was running at 22. G/s at idle


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## 4-door crap rabbit (Sep 4, 2001)

22g/s??! holy crap, no wonder you're fouling out at idle! that number should only be ~3-6g/s at idle, depending on whether your a/c or other accessories are running. Sounds like your air meter is junk, or you have some kind of crazy electrical problem..


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## KyleRI (Nov 11, 2008)

4-door crap rabbit said:


> 22g/s??! holy crap, no wonder you're fouling out at idle! that number should only be ~3-6g/s at idle, depending on whether your a/c or other accessories are running. Sounds like your air meter is junk, or you have some kind of crazy electrical problem..


i probably have that number wrong. :beer:


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## 4-door crap rabbit (Sep 4, 2001)

KyleRI said:


> i probably have that number wrong. :beer:


Well double-check when you get a chance, If your plugs come out smelling like gas, it's certainly running too rich. A faulty air meter could easily be the cause of this issue.


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## Imaximumcarnage (Apr 29, 2013)

Had the same problem few things needed capped off also check for vac leaks boost also icv


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

1- what plugs are you using? Should be one step colder NGK only (no Bosch bs)
2- are you running a dv or bov? If bov u need to reroute to intake dv setup. 
Also I believe with the 42lb chip u need oe 3bar fpr only.


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