# DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete



## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.

Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list):

AWP
AWD
AUQ
AWW
AWV
AWM


I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...h-everything-you-need&p=64471922#post64471922

For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:

- Integrated Engineering Block Plate
- 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
- 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
- 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
- 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
- 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
- 1 3/4" PCV "T"
- 12 Medium Hose Clamps
- 6 Small Hose Clamps
- 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
- 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
- 1 Homebrew Catch Can
- G12 Coolant


Optional (While your in there) Parts:

- Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
- Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
*Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge. 


Tools Needed:

- Gloves
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
- Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
- Cutters
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)

**Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:

GOOD LUCK!!








































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Finished product:


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Well done!


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Andaloons said:


> Well done!


Thanks! Took forever, but it feels good to have it done.


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## NOLA_VDubber (May 24, 2007)

nstevic01 said:


> Thanks! Took forever, but it feels good to have it done.


Very impressive!


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

*diy*

"ultimate" delete is right. Good job!


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## bpfoley (Nov 30, 2000)

how is readiness handled with these modifications? I need to pass inspection in NYS.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

bpfoley said:


> how is readiness handled with these modifications? I need to pass inspection in NYS.


Without proper programming, you most likely wont be able to pass. I'm not sure which of the ECU programmers offer that.


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## kendaliscool08 (Nov 24, 2009)

Can I remove the blue balls without any reprocussion? I'm been trying to remove useless junk in my engine bay and i already have capped off the one on the valve cover. (Doing this without removing evap)


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

kendaliscool08 said:


> Can I remove the blue balls without any reprocussion? I'm been trying to remove useless junk in my engine bay and i already have capped off the one on the valve cover. (Doing this without removing evap)


The blue balls are hidden and weigh nothing. IIRC they are required for the EVAP to function properly and not throw codes (since you want to keep the EVAP). You really would only want to remove them if you were doing this entire delete.


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## RobClubley (Jul 15, 2006)

Awesome guide! Thanks for taking the time to create it.


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## waabaah (Jun 24, 2006)

bump for later reference


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Sticky this*

Add this to the faq, along with sav's diy even a moron should be able to complete this. :what:

You should add a not to stick some paper towels in the intake ports so you don't accidentally drop anything down into your engine


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

awesome write-up; clears up alot of the ?s ppl had with the other write-ups. this needs to be stickied. and PLS try to keep your pics hosted so they dont disappear from this write-up, since it's pic-based.

well done :beer:x12 for u.


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## Alex's_GLI (Mar 18, 2010)

for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it. 

If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!


Amazing DIY.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Alex's_GLI said:


> for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.
> 
> If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!
> 
> ...


Eurodyne Maestro 7 is $899.99  Although for what you can do with it, it seems worth it.


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## Tacosupreme (Jan 22, 2008)

Very good write up :beer:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

nstevic01 said:


> Eurodyne Maestro 7 is $899.99  Although for what you can do with it, it seems worth it.


Worth every dime.. Even on a stock turbo setup


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## Tacosupreme (Jan 22, 2008)

Is it safe to remove the pcv valve?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Tacosupreme said:


> Is it safe to remove the pcv valve?


If you are talking about this piece, it stays. Only other "stock" piece that remains is the Brake booster check valve.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

Great write up!


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## ParanoidPJK (Dec 3, 2009)

Words cannot describe..
Best DIY, ever?

Thank you so much for putting down the effort to get this done and help others. If I do this sometime soon, I'm going to pay you for the kit (which I assume is slightly marked up?) to reward you.

One thing though, I was hoping there would be some kind of panoramic shot of the engine bay from above to show the difference in the completed product.


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## lamarvannoy (Jan 29, 2010)

mad nice. good write up. what codes am i going to get for this? will improper flow dick with my CEL?


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## talx (Apr 4, 2003)

Good write up :thumbup: …… but change that valve cover gasket it’s a strait forward and simple job


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

ParanoidPJK said:


> Words cannot describe..
> Best DIY, ever?
> 
> Thank you so much for putting down the effort to get this done and help others. If I do this sometime soon, I'm going to pay you for the kit (which I assume is slightly marked up?) to reward you.
> ...


Yes the kits are slightly marked up, but not by a whole lot. I have 2 left of the first batch and may do more if people want them. I will get the shot for you this weekend. 




lamarvannoy said:


> mad nice. good write up. what codes am i going to get for this? will improper flow dick with my CEL?



Depends, if you dont have software to delete the CAT, you will prob get one for that, and you may or may not get the one for improper flow for the EVAP flow regulator. 



talx said:


> Good write up :thumbup: …… but change that valve cover gasket it’s a strait forward and simple job



Already changed, my car is the one with the blue TIP :thumbup:


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## ParanoidPJK (Dec 3, 2009)

nstevic01 said:


> Yes the kits are slightly marked up, but not by a whole lot. I have 2 left of the first batch and may do more if people want them. I will get the shot for you this weekend.


Excellent! Yeah, if you find yourself bored and with a camera I'd love to see the shot sometime. Thanks again for the thorough, idiot proof write-up. :beer:


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

*...*

Here's a pic of my car (the one with the red tip from the diy) sorry my phone doesn't take great pictures.. and btw my VC gasket had been replaced a few times, i just have a dirty engine.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

And here is mine, the other car from the DIY


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

*..*

way to 1-up me with your super camera


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## ParanoidPJK (Dec 3, 2009)

Thanks for the pics! Is the engine noticeably free-er to work in? Im doing some turbo work and nothing pisses me off more so than these stupid vacuum lines (mainly the ones on the drivers side of the block that you have to snake the oil feed line around)


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

ParanoidPJK said:


> Thanks for the pics! Is the engine noticeably free-er to work in? Im doing some turbo work and nothing pisses me off more so than these stupid vacuum lines (mainly the ones on the drivers side of the block that you have to snake the oil feed line around)


 Honestly, working in the bay has become noticeably easier. Things are alot easier to get to, and leasks are easier to pinpoint.


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## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

Great writeup, but that rusty brown looking coolant coming out in some of the pics doesn't look so good.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

White Jetta said:


> Great writeup, but that rusty brown looking coolant coming out in some of the pics doesn't look so good.












Yeah, that wasn't my car though. The car had a auto to manual tranny swap and the guy who did it capped off the hardline to coolant neck ports, so im not sure if that led to the nastyness. I fixed that for him when we did the install, you can see the handywork of elbows, clamps, and small hose bits.


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

How did you get the 3/4 heater hose over the valve cover pcv outlet. I tryed heating it up/lube it just won't go.


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## surfinsk8r (Feb 8, 2010)

That was probably the best DIY I've seen to date. My only question is, does it directly apply to an 2002 Audi TT 225Q? I believe it has a different engine code even though it is very similar.
What would be different?
Thanks!


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Budsdubbin said:


> How did you get the 3/4 heater hose over the valve cover pcv outlet. I tryed heating it up/lube it just won't go.


It goes on, you just gotta work it. Out of the 2 I have done, it really only took me a couple of seconds to pop it on. Perhaps you broke off the reducer/checkvalve like I did in the pic with it wrapped in electrical tape?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

surfinsk8r said:


> That was probably the best DIY I've seen to date. My only question is, does it directly apply to an 2002 Audi TT 225Q? I believe it has a different engine code even though it is very similar.
> What would be different?
> Thanks!


I can't tell you 100% This DIY was done on a AWP and AWD motor. The hose routing is pretty much universal. How and what to remove varies with each car.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

I just did it earlier this week and I have an AWW engine. It is very close minus a few vac. ports.

I am sure that these engines will be very similar. I would cap off the extra ports that still hold vac. and run everything straight to the manifold.

I like the difference that I am seeing in my car now. I didn't realize that I had some lines that were busted underneath my intake manifold causing vac. leaks and it a bit messy underneath from some oil coming out. 

Thanks for an amazing write up!! It really helped.:beer:


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

the one going to the valve cover will not go on with 3/4ths heater I even tryed warming it up.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

get some silicone and grease it up. I had a bit of difficulity, but it will work.

it's like sex. You have to work w/ it, it'll go in.


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## filthyillness (Feb 13, 2010)

bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol


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## surfinsk8r (Feb 8, 2010)

flodubba said:


> bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol


I have it all in a word doc w/ each picture resized to the page :beer:


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

flodubba said:


> bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol


I do have a PDF version that I included with my kits. I have it in 1 file, and a 6 file version depending on your email provider's attachment limit. 

Send me some emails and Ill try and send it out.


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## TurboLover03 (May 28, 2003)

Does ANYONE know the part number for the "T" that fits in between the 3 hoses highlighted here?










I broke the nipple off while trying to replace the hose from the manifold to this "T" fitting because of a leak and need to pick this part up TODAY if possible! 

Also, does anyone know if the leak that was and still is there would be hurting my max psi?


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

Any leak will hurt your AFR trims, and max psi. You should be able to use a plastic t connector found at any auto parts store.


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## TurboLover03 (May 28, 2003)

Thanks for the reply to my question, 

I think that's what I'm going to have to try because I went to the dealer and they could NOT find the equivalent part! After looking at their diagram for about 10 minutes and talking about it we finally found the PCV system on a DIFFERENT diagram . He showed me the "part" that I would have to buy and its $180! Its that whole system of piping including hard pipe and their connectors. They were very friendly but said it doesn't look like they sell just the T fitting anymore. I have an AWD engine code and the more I thought about it the more I think that the OEM equipment for my vehicle is different then what they now sell in their parts... the two hoses that intersect the same T fitting that are NOT broken off both have hose clamps on them. Can anyone else confirm that not all engine codes have the 'all-in-one' hose mess as a single part?

To the OP this is probably the best write-up I've seen on Vortex. Every detail photographed and explained thoroughly. Thank you for this!


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

awd's have slightly different hose routing, and i know what you mean about them being confused at the dealer because they were looking at an AWW/AWP diagram. I sold my n249 assembly or i'd take a picture for you, but good luck :thumbup:


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## TurboLover03 (May 28, 2003)

sounrealx said:


> awd's have slightly different hose routing, and i know what you mean about them being confused at the dealer because they were looking at an AWW/AWP diagram. I sold my n249 assembly or i'd take a picture for you, but good luck :thumbup:


Another good info reply... thank you good sir. That's encouraging too... so what you're basically confirming is there IS indeed a 'T' connector there for the AWD engines? It seems to me there is but it sounds like you have some further experience to confirm that.

Thanks a lot man.


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## reflected (Apr 6, 2007)

Alex's_GLI said:


> for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.
> 
> If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!
> 
> ...


i offer this service. $50. pm me.


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## 2002 GTI (Aug 22, 2006)

*"blue balls" vac*

HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

TurboLover03 said:


> so what you're basically confirming is there IS indeed a 'T' connector there for the AWD engines? It seems to me there is but it sounds like you have some further experience to confirm that.


I was just giving you a suggestion based on what info i read. If you have two severed vacuum lines that need to be connected, a brass or plastic connector is the best bet if you can't easily replace the hose. If you could in some way try and take a more detailed picture, i could maybe get a better idea. Good luck.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

2002 GTI said:


> HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...


The blue balls are for the Fuel EVAP system. All of the lines are routed on the leftmost side of the engine bay. If you had a leak there, you would smell fuel. It really isnt an integral part of the Vacuum System, but it is connected to the intake to burn off fuel vapors from the fuel tank. 

Most vacuum leaks occur under the intake manifold with the smaller lines cracking due to age, boost leaks can cause issue too. I would double check all remaining vac lines and due a pressure test of your intake lines.


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## 2002 GTI (Aug 22, 2006)

*vac leaks..*

thank you for the heads up.. those were my plans , however i thought i would ask.. Thank you again...


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## TurboLover03 (May 28, 2003)

On the subject of the T-fitting that intersects with that 4mm hose coming from the manifold and the straightthrough part of the Tee to the PCV system....

Does anyone know the diameter of the hose coming from the N249 to that tee fitting?


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## TurboLover03 (May 28, 2003)

After utilizing my great sense of deduction ;-) I think I have the dimensions of that "T reducer". 

Measured the outer diameter of the through hoses, they were about 1/2".... and I already knew the inner diameter of the vac hose leading to the manifold as a 4mm. I was looking today and I think the exact T I need is a 

9mm x 4mm x 9 mm which is roughly equivalent to standard 3/8" x 3/16" x 3/8".

This is for anyone that might have this question in the future. Refer to my picture above circling the area where this T resides...


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## GLIbrewster (Mar 3, 2010)

*siliconeintakes.com*

siliconeintakes.com... i bought a intake leak tester from this site. my friend jeff referred it to me. ive seen custom made ones but the hardware stores around me had limited supply so i went with this about 30$


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## GTI 20th AE #1421 (Dec 7, 2006)

Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

GTI 20th AE #1421 said:


> Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.
> 
> Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?


Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed. 

After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

GTI 20th AE #1421 said:


> Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.
> 
> Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?


The only thing I have resistored is my SAI. I have kept everything else plugged in. No codes. I did however keep my EVAP system. I didn't feel it would be a good idea to delete it. I kept one of the check valves to the system and ran a vac line to it. 

If you need resistors I have quite a few of them (No I won't be charging the prices that I have been seeing online.... 4-6 bucks for one? oh no... I will set anyone up w/ a good deal while I have them). PM me if you need some.


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## Ohms89 (Jul 15, 2010)

any chance you can make a kit without the block-off plate? and whatbout shipping to canada?

I'm having a pretty hard time getting the parts individually locally, so this kit is pretty balls for me. Good write up btw..


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Ohms89 said:


> any chance you can make a kit without the block-off plate? and whatbout shipping to canada?
> 
> I'm having a pretty hard time getting the parts individually locally, so this kit is pretty balls for me. Good write up btw..


Sent you a PM


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## EJPolaski (Sep 24, 2008)

nstevic01 said:


> Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed.
> 
> After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.


To my knowledge there is no way to get rid of the improper flow codes other than a chip tuner coding it out or finding someone who can do that to your ecu. no resistor or o2 spacer or anything will help unfortunately


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

I've put maybe 20k on my car since the delete, and no incorrect flow code, just evap purge something something


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

EJPolaski said:


> To my knowledge there is no way to get rid of the improper flow codes other than a chip tuner coding it out or finding someone who can do that to your ecu. no resistor or o2 spacer or anything will help unfortunately


I didnt have the code for the SAI until about a few weeks ago. Not sure why it would pop back up. There is a guy that posted in this thread that will do the delete for like $50. Although Im not sure if that will mess with other tuning on the ECU, like Revo or APR


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## Henni (May 14, 2003)

I have the 42DD spacer w/ a catless exhaust. I yet to pull a code for my second 02 sensor. As long as that 02 sensor is out of the main stream of the exhaust it shouldn't pull a code.


You should only need one resistor, leave everything else plugged in.


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## Gberg888GLI (Nov 1, 2006)

great DIY... i gotta do this sometime soon... i have all the crap in the engine bay that is unnecessary.


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## reflected (Apr 6, 2007)

nstevic01 said:


> I didnt have the code for the SAI until about a few weeks ago. Not sure why it would pop back up. There is a guy that posted in this thread that will do the delete for like $50. Although Im not sure if that will mess with other tuning on the ECU, like Revo or APR


 will not mess with other tuning.  send me a pm if anyone needs this done. :thumbup:


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## mazen... (Sep 30, 2008)

what about the audi TT (BAM) 2003 model? 

is there any DIY:screwy:


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## MacetaJimenez (Apr 8, 2010)

with the resistors, will the check engine still show?


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## dlsolo (Sep 6, 2004)

great write up!! definitely useful.


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## weenerdog3443 (Jul 5, 2007)

I cant remember if you just bypass the n249 if you leave it plugged in will it throw a code or not... doin that on the wifeys gti.. dont have to worry on my bt getta eurodyne took car of that on mine


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

mine didnt throw a code when i capped it and ran a line from the intake manifold to the d/v


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## ParanoidPJK (Dec 3, 2009)

In case anybody else is curious, this is how much crap this DIY will remove from your engine bay.


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

for forgive the newb question, but what exactly is the purpose of this delete besides cleaning up engine bay? i just recently bought my first vw, a 2003 20th ae gti. just trying to figure out and understand what all the common mods are for these things.


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## ParanoidPJK (Dec 3, 2009)

cjb88 said:


> for forgive the newb question, but what exactly is the purpose of this delete besides cleaning up engine bay? i just recently bought my first vw, a 2003 20th ae gti. just trying to figure out and understand what all the common mods are for these things.


It cleans up your engine bay, dramatically reduces the load on the vacuum signal (which means faster DV response). If the engine is high mileage, the vacuum lines under the intake manifold likely need to be replaced or removed anyways.

Many people also comment that it smooths out their idle and their car just plain runs better. I know it helped mine a little bit.

If you live in a state that does emissions inspections, do not do this. If you don't, this will do nothing but benefit your car, in my opinion.

I would do it all over again just for the fact that my engine is less crowded and I know that EVERY vacuum line is in good shape, where they go, and why. It makes things more simplistic.


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

Here is my contribution... Mighty thanks for the DIY... Just did some different things.. 





































thats the hockey puck that is a AN fitting with a 90* that goes from AN to NPT...fits right in the barb of the stock TIP and my Aftermarket Silicone TIP


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

an fittings look good, where did you get them as well as the fitting for the block breather? 

also, it might look cleaner if you threaded the adapter on the VC and screwed the fitting on


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I have noticed my gas mileage dropped significantly; I resistor everything off, and was still able to see the fuel trims with vag com after doing this, any ideas ? the were within + or - 5 % of 0


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

Make a topic for your self, This thread isnt for issues


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Love the AN fittings, glad to see so many benefiting from my DIY


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

AWESOME DIY! Really detailed! Thanks, Got all of this done, All I got left is Resistors to do. 330ohm 10watt right?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

20vGetta said:


> AWESOME DIY! Really detailed! Thanks, Got all of this done, All I got left is Resistors to do. 330ohm 10watt right?



yep, I can ship you a set of 4 for $6.39 if you need them


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

nstevic01 said:


> yep, I can ship you a set of 4 for $6.39 if you need them


Alright, PM me your paypal address!


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

20vGetta said:


> Alright, PM me your paypal address!


sent


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## burton2604 (Mar 19, 2010)

amazing right up.. helped me with a lot of questions i had:thumbup::thumbup:


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

nstevic01 said:


> sent


 Free bump. Thanks for the Resistors, good price, and quick shipping got them in 3 days!


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

I haven't noticed any difference in gas mileage... and I got most of the fittings and hose from silicone intakes.com, The fitting above the oil filter I got from a local guy I think he got it from integrated engineering


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## stoterau (Nov 13, 2009)

i think i already know the answer but....would a 3300 ohm resistor be too much? I read it wrong when i went and bought them :banghead:


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## martin13 (Apr 20, 2010)

stoterau said:


> i think i already know the answer but....would a 3300 ohm resistor be too much? I read it wrong when i went and bought them :banghead:


i would assume so


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## dtriforce (Oct 16, 2010)

nstevic01 said:


> Thanks! Took forever, but it feels good to have it done.


Heyy im planning on bypassing the n249 valve but i dont know what hardware im gonna need.
do you know what size of vaccum hoses im gonna need? thanks


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

dtriforce said:


> Heyy im planning on bypassing the n249 valve but i dont know what hardware im gonna need.
> do you know what size of vaccum hoses im gonna need? thanks


They are listed on page 1


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## mj23wizards (Nov 29, 2006)

Where can i find vac caps?


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## sounrealx (Apr 4, 2007)

auto parts store?


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

IM going back to resistor these dam things. anyone know what the wire colors are for the ones under intake manifold?


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## edisonr (Oct 24, 2003)

Just to confirm, the four resistors go in the N249, N112, SAI and EVAP connectors correct?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

edisonr said:


> Just to confirm, the four resistors go in the N249, N112, SAI and EVAP connectors correct?


Correct.


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## Azierus (Nov 17, 2007)

Ive heard that when you delete the evap stuff that might have a chance of having a gas smell arising. is this true? A budy of mine did his a couple months back and he says every now and then he smells gas. If i leave the evap portion in can i run the vacuum line to one of the unused fittings on the intake manifold? 
on another note im doing all this next sat so im pretty stoked about cleaning up my engine bay and hopefully fixing some odd boost/vacuum problems. i'll post pics of before and after!


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Azierus said:


> Ive heard that when you delete the evap stuff that might have a chance of having a gas smell arising. is this true? A budy of mine did his a couple months back and he says every now and then he smells gas. If i leave the evap portion in can i run the vacuum line to one of the unused fittings on the intake manifold?
> on another note im doing all this next sat so im pretty stoked about cleaning up my engine bay and hopefully fixing some odd boost/vacuum problems. i'll post pics of before and after!



Depends, if you cap off the lines like in my DIY, you will not smell gas. I recently reconnected my EVAP system to gain a little more fuel economy (not a huge gain, but on the highway it made about a 1 mpg difference). I ran mine to an open port on my TIP. I'm no expert but you could prob run it an open port on the manifold as well.


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## Azierus (Nov 17, 2007)

yea i figured it had something to do with those lines you have to cap off. so you really didnt see THAT much of a difference in mpg once hooked up? The fuel smell was the only real thing i was worried about, but id rather yank all of that out and clean up my engine bay lol


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

erevlydeux said:


> You mentioned there ends up being 4 connectors that need to be resistored. It looks like there are two fuel injector style (Bosch EV1) connectors and two other ones. How many pins do the other two have?


All 4 connectors have 2 pins each


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Azierus said:


> yea i figured it had something to do with those lines you have to cap off. so you really didnt see THAT much of a difference in mpg once hooked up? The fuel smell was the only real thing i was worried about, but id rather yank all of that out and clean up my engine bay lol


Not a huge diff in fuel economy, but the majority is highway miles so it adds up. The evap really does not take up any usable room in the bay, the blue balls are tucked away in the wheel well, and there are minimal vac lines in the bay. 

The real gain is when removing the SAI, combi and related lines. Tons of room from those.


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

nstevic01 said:


> Depends, if you cap off the lines like in my DIY, you will not smell gas. I recently reconnected my EVAP system to gain a little more fuel economy (not a huge gain, but on the highway it made about a 1 mpg difference). I ran mine to an open port on my TIP. I'm no expert but you could prob run it an open port on the manifold as well.


You don't want to run that to a vacuum port on the intake manifold because you'll be introducing positive pressure to it under boost (unless you install a check valve), but running it to the TIP is the proper way to do this....

You should probably just leave the combination valve if you're not going to delete everything, that way if you sell it you'll be able to hook everything back up. You can just delete the N249 and N112 if that's what you wanted but bypassing the N249 is mainly what everybody is after due to the fact that the ECU will no longer be controlling your boost levels.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Really like the low-mounted catch can, I'm going to steal that idea


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

Like I said, I got the resistors to you, like 4 months ago haha, but just got to it today, thanks so much again, worked great use solder...... GREAT DIY


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## HardHittaz00 (Aug 21, 2010)

This may be a stupid question, but if the ecu no longer controls your boost levels then what does? I've got the stage 3 APR kit and am about to do this full delete, but I have no manual boost controller or anything.


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

Well, your N249 just interrupts your DV/BOV so it will still work just fine connected directly to manifold pressure, better in fact. During self troubleshooting or limp, the ECU will induce vacuum to your DV/BOV, using the N249, in an attempt to pull boost from the system. The N75, EBC or MBC will still control your boost levels.....

Understand? :beer: :thumbup:


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## HardHittaz00 (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks chaveezy! I kind of understand  But you're saying I'll be fine without a mbc? I will still boost and cut off at the proper levels?


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

Yes of course it will, your chip controls your N75 valve, which bleeds boost away from the wastegate, which in turn raises boost levels. (without the N75 you would only boost until wastegate pressure is reached ~14psi, depending on your installed spring).

Your N249 valve is another way to interrupt the DV, which is just another way to bleed boost levels away during self troubleshooting (limp), and other part throttle conditions. I'm not sure of the exact N249 logic, but in a nutshell that's what it does/is able to do.

Hope this helps. :thumbup:


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## HardHittaz00 (Aug 21, 2010)

Yezzir! Much appreciated! Just was a little confused.


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## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

chaveezy said:


> (without the N75 you would only boost until wastegate pressure is reached ~14psi, depending on your installed spring)


With a Forge actuator or straight spring on a 3071, yes, but the k03/k04 run at 5psi on the spring, which is also why limp mode is at 5psi (you can't get around the mechanical boost controller)


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## chaveezy (Jan 31, 2010)

I'm on a GT2871R and I'm at standard wastegate pressure (~14psi), however, it was more to make a point.. That's why the note, "depending on your installed spring". 

Good catch though  :beer:


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## kdawg24 (Nov 7, 2010)

dont know if i missed it in there but what are the benifits of this delete. Thanks in advance


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

kdawg24 said:


> dont know if i missed it in there but what are the benifits of this delete. Thanks in advance


 to help you become less of a noob and more familiar with your car.


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## kdawg24 (Nov 7, 2010)

thanks dunbsh*t any one else that is not an a**


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Well he is correct in a way, you do get more familiar with your car. If you are new to cars or your dub in general, I would not recommend this as a first mod. 

Some benefits include, cleaning up the engine bay making things like oil changes and identifying leaks easier, simplifying the vac lines, the addition of an oil catch can to trap the "crap" that goes through the old PCV setup. 

Also is beneficial in saving money on costly part replacement in non-emission states. So if your SAI, EVAP regulator, or Combi go bad, you can just delete them. 

Most everyone will agree that the car runs ALOT better with this delete done. Keep in mind if your state has emissions related inspections, you will most likely fail if you perform this delete. So keep that in mind.


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## kdawg24 (Nov 7, 2010)

thank you nstevic that wasnt so hard, i'm not new did timing belt by myself just not advanced enough to start removing designed in parts of the car with out asking what the benifits vs risk are and i am in cali so this would not be prudent due to emission standards


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## sprockeTT71 (Nov 14, 2010)

Just to be sure...I can leave the evap, n249, & n112 plugged and tucked away? 

Also, can anyone tell me what to do with this on my TT (awp)? It is in the location of the blue balls on the normal AWP. It has 3 wire so resistoring doesn't seem the option. The lines go to the same location you remove and cap. Right now I plan on leaving it in placed connected. 

Thanks.


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## finesse (Feb 26, 2009)

Can I delete the pcv system and not bother with a catch can?


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

finesse said:


> Can I delete the pcv system and not bother with a catch can?


 You cannot plug up the holes. You can use a filter on each location, some have done it. Or you can run a hose down to the floor so it leaks on the ground.


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## finesse (Feb 26, 2009)

thank you dub, 

I have to do this on a budget


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ get rid of all that ish and run a hose to the floor from the crankcase and a filter off the valvecover and be done with it


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## [email protected] Dub 1.8t (Apr 11, 2007)

This is a GREAT diy but my question is have there been any boost leaks?


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## Cobra397 (Apr 5, 2006)

*Leaving Evap*

I am about to do this delete but I am wanting to leave my Evap system alone. If i follow the first part of this guide do any of the lines intersect the EVAP system? or should I be fine. ? thanks for any help. :laugh:


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## RobClubley (Jul 15, 2006)

You'll be fine. As you can see the evap system is separate:


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

great info


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## pryorjack (Feb 16, 2010)

What will happen if I only remove the sai, n249, and pcv systems and run a separate line for the evap?


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## RobClubley (Jul 15, 2006)

pryorjack said:


> What will happen if I only remove the sai, n249, and pcv systems and run a separate line for the evap?


I've done that - and removed the evap line to the intake leaving just the one to the throttle body. No issues.


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## pryorjack (Feb 16, 2010)

RobClubley said:


> I've done that - and removed the evap line to the intake leaving just the one to the throttle body. No issues.


awesome. i will be doing this soon


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## pielout (Jul 12, 2006)

Since I just got chipped(Unitronics), I also got the CAT SAI and EVAP deletes in the program....my question is do I still have to run resistors since those got deleted already? I wouldn't think so but I'm not sure


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

pielout said:


> Since I just got chipped(Unitronics), I also got the CAT SAI and EVAP deletes in the program....my question is do I still have to run resistors since those got deleted already? I wouldn't think so but I'm not sure


 well... search would tell u this, but ill make it a touch easyer for you....... yes u need resistors even if u had the deletes done in your software and removed the physical parts. with out resistors your car will not adapt the fuel trims and such properly. all that happens with out the resistors is ull have a car that runs ok and dosnt get a cell the way your setup now. if you use the search button or read this whole thread u should find plenty of info showing why its important to have both a software delete and resistors to get things running properly.


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## pielout (Jul 12, 2006)

thank you for being kind and not blasting me to hard:thumbup: I DID read every post in this thread I just didnt recall anybody saying they had the deletes and resistors(maybe I did just didnt catch it) now I know, thank you sir


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

So far I have removed everything but the evap system. Are there any negative effects of removing the evap system, or risks? I don't have emissions testing in my area, so I'm not worried about that.


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## mooreboy947 (May 4, 2009)

Question here there is a picture of the evap lines being capped off after removal behind coolant ball.... Tell me if I'm wrong but wont that cause vapor lock since the vapors have no whre to go but through the gas lines or shooting your gas cap off at the pump.Please correct me if I' wrong on that one so I can correct it or not.


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## 1.8Tbsl (Nov 11, 2005)

Need Help...I did the full delete and now i have a very bad idle. Goes up to around 1000rpm and then down to 500rpm and eventually car dies out. I can drive, but once i come to a stop it almost dies unless giving some gas. No codes pop up.


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## RobClubley (Jul 15, 2006)

Sounds like you might have a vac leak somewhere


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

mooreboy947 said:


> Question here there is a picture of the evap lines being capped off after removal behind coolant ball.... Tell me if I'm wrong but wont that cause vapor lock since the vapors have no whre to go but through the gas lines or shooting your gas cap off at the pump.Please correct me if I' wrong on that one so I can correct it or not.


 13k miles with this method and 0 issues.


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## HereTryThis (Feb 2, 2008)

I cut mine back to the pump and left them un-capped. no issues, slight gas smell on the odd day.


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## mooreboy947 (May 4, 2009)

I didn't want to seem like a smart ass or anything just trying to figure out the best way to do it. Is there any way to permantely delete codes with VAD mobile anyone???????


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## 1.8Tbsl (Nov 11, 2005)

RobClubley said:


> Sounds like you might have a vac leak somewhere


 Where would it be tho. Tried spraying the hoses with carb cleaner to see if the idle changes or dies but nothing. I also changed the spark plugs which helped for a few seconds then it started idling bad again. Also plugs were really black when i changed them.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

That only works on N/A engines.. try pressure testing it:thumbup:


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## 1.8Tbsl (Nov 11, 2005)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> That only works on N/A engines.. try pressure testing it:thumbup:


 Will that find vacuum leaks all the way to the intake manifold?


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## mooreboy947 (May 4, 2009)

My question, is if its ok to leave it dumped under the car or should I just cap it?


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## oempls (Aug 9, 2004)

Great DIY. Gonna have to do this one while I am changing out my coolant lines.


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## builtvw (Sep 20, 2009)

awesome:thumbup:


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Do we put the hockey puck valve back in the TIP?


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## zsrbpk (Jul 14, 2010)

*resistor watt question*

why are you using a 10w resistor thats big why cant you use a 1w with the same ohm? also i have a AWP motor and was wondering with this DIY would everything still run correctly? i mean without any problems because i was afraid to do it and if not run correctly and then have to have it towed to a shop to have it tuned and to delete the code from my ECU


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

I'm using 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors, if that means anything.


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## zsrbpk (Jul 14, 2010)

Hows it working any problems or CEL coming one continuiously?


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## un1ko (Apr 6, 2004)

Great info!


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## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

zsrbpk said:


> Hows it working any problems or CEL coming one continuiously?


Assuming your alternator isn't working, and its only getting 12V...

I = E / R

I = 12 / 330ohm

I = 0.03636

So there will be .03Amps going through the Resistor, Keeping that in mind.

P = E x I

P = 12 X 0.03636

P = 0.43632 watts 

If you alt is working correctly, and you're actually getting 14.7volts you'd get closer to .53watts being passed through the resistor. 

So no matter how you slice it, a 1/2 watt will work without an issue. :wave:


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## zsrbpk (Jul 14, 2010)

Thank you very much for the advice i will use a 1/2 watt 330 ohm


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Seeing the math done, I'm wondering where the idea came from to use the 10w 330ohm resistors? IIRC they are the resistor of choice when doing the deletes since I can remember.

Since you can apparently use the 1/2w 330ohm resistor, that makes them all the easier to obtain.


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## zsrbpk (Jul 14, 2010)

*Great write up*

I just didnt my delete today and it came out great started up first try with ZERO codes! It was a little time consuming but was worth the freed up space! looks much better if i do say so myself! Also another question does this delete do anything to gasmileage or anything along those lines or any long term affects????


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## RaBBiTonRoiDs (Sep 14, 2008)

Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for the write up!:beer: I did this last weekend to my wife's 02 jetta. I did however use 10w 100 ohm resistors from the shack. Done a little over 70 miles now with no issues. Just the usual 2 codes...evap and secondary air improper flow.


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## GETTATURBO (Sep 22, 2007)

*evap delete*

I have a jetta with an aww motor. Do you know of anything different i would need to know?:thumbup:


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## reflected (Apr 6, 2007)

RaBBiTonRoiDs said:


> Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for the write up!:beer: I did this last weekend to my wife's 02 jetta. I did however use 10w 100 ohm resistors from the shack. Done a little over 70 miles now with no issues. Just the usual 2 codes...evap and secondary air improper flow.


i can take care of those codes for you. hit me up. :beer:


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## ste18t (Mar 8, 2011)

anyone got any pictures of this done on a new beetle turbo awu engine, theres plenty extra piping on the awu engine


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## GTI'N-IT-UP (Mar 22, 2006)

I am about to do this delete and I am running APR 93 program. My question is when I connect these resistors that should take care of my cel problem right? If so then does the improper flow code come up every so often or is it a code that sticks with you and just have to scan every so often to check it, and if I'm correct so far would the software deletes, such as the O2 delete evap and sai,keep any of this from coming up? Hope this makes sense and thanks for final input


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

GTI'N-IT-UP said:


> I am about to do this delete and I am running APR 93 program. My question is when I connect these resistors that should take care of my cel problem right? If so then does the improper flow code come up every so often or is it a code that sticks with you and just have to scan every so often to check it, and if I'm correct so far would the software deletes, such as the O2 delete evap and sai,keep any of this from coming up? Hope this makes sense and thanks for final input



Resistors are for only keeping your fuel trims in check, PM member *reflected*, he does the coding for $50 to remove the CEL's


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## sprockeTT71 (Nov 14, 2010)

I have an '01 TT in which I need to completely re-install my deletes. If anyone is going to start their delete here soon. PM me. I have some really nice plug-in resistors that I will trade for your delete items. I really need your stuff to be removed with as little cutting as possible. 

Thanks!


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

what are the resistors used for. I've read elsewhere that they don't prevent cel's.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

hollywood084 said:


> what are the resistors used for. I've read elsewhere that they don't prevent cel's.


Answer literally 2 posts up...no worries :beer:

Anyone need kits? I just made 2 more, and I can have them shipped out by tomorrow morning.


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

erevlydeux said:


> They keep your fuel trims working.


Ahhh, that sounds important. Im assuming all 3 from your site in your sig should do the trick? Well, 2 of the 3 depending on which fits my car


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

nstevic01 said:


> Answer literally 2 posts up...no worries :beer:
> 
> Anyone need kits? I just made 2 more, and I can have them shipped out by tomorrow morning.



Wow, dont know how i missed that one! :screwy:


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Is anyone getting P2404 "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance" after plugging in the evap resistor? I didn't have that code before I put a resistor in.


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## dtcaward (May 10, 2009)

hollywood084 said:


> Is anyone getting P2404 "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance" after plugging in the evap resistor? I didn't have that code before I put a resistor in.


take out the resistor plug the evap sensor back in and tuck it some where in the engine bay your code will be gone. you only need a resistor on the sai pump


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

dtcaward said:


> take out the resistor plug the evap sensor back in and tuck it some where in the engine bay your code will be gone. you only need a resistor on the sai pump


Ok, I'll try that. Will my fuel trims be good?


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

erevlydeux said:


> The resistors aren't meant to clear codes... you need to have that done in software. Sorry, but anyone telling you different is most likely wrong. :bs: As far as resistoring the pump.... I don't have my Bentley with me, but I'm 99.9% sure it's relayed power, aka there is no need for a resistor.


 I know it won't clear codes, I've already had some removed from the ecu. This one is new ever since I put the resistor in the evap spot. Original evap sensor doesn't fix it. I guess my post was misleading. I don't care so much about codes because the system is not even there, it's to be expected, and I'll just have them removed if necessary. All I know is what I've read, and people have been saying resistors for fuel trims/adaptation, just trying to make sure I get that part taken care of properly.


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## beatrixkiddo (Apr 26, 2008)

hollywood084 said:


> I know it won't clear codes, I've already had some removed from the ecu. This one is new ever since I put the resistor in the evap spot. Original evap sensor doesn't fix it. I guess my post was misleading. I don't care so much about codes because the system is not even there, it's to be expected, and I'll just have them removed if necessary. All I know is what I've read, and people have been saying resistors for fuel trims, just trying to make sure I get that part taken care of properly.



did you just do this mod? curious as to how it went for you. we're doing mine this weekend or next.


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

beatrixkiddo said:


> did you just do this mod? curious as to how it went for you. we're doing mine this weekend or next.


I did it a few weekends ago. Car runs just as good or better than before.


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## beatrixkiddo (Apr 26, 2008)

hollywood084 said:


> I did it a few weekends ago. Car runs just as good or better than before.


:beer:


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## DeckDub (May 2, 2010)

quick question since ill be doing this delete in stages
if you look at the diagram on page 4 somebody posted the lines for the brake system are highlighted in pink.
my question is this can i get rid of all those "pink" lines and just run one hose from the brake booster to the port on the right side of my intake manifold, and just put a check valve in between? thanks


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

DeckDub said:


> quick question since ill be doing this delete in stages
> if you look at the diagram on page 4 somebody posted the lines for the brake system are highlighted in pink.
> my question is this can i get rid of all those "pink" lines and just run one hose from the brake booster to the port on the right side of my intake manifold, and just put a check valve in between? thanks


That is where my DIY shows you to connect it using 1/2" line. Keep the check valve on the brake booster line and use the larger port on the side of the intake manifold. 

Take a look at page 1, should be close to the middle.


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

My car still is running Good, I only get a CEL for the SAI which I'm going to get deleted here soon, along with a fail on EVAP emissions but I can pass with one failed.


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## DeckDub (May 2, 2010)

> That is where my DIY shows you to connect it using 1/2" line. Keep the check valve on the brake booster line and use the larger port on the side of the intake manifold.
> 
> Take a look at page 1, should be close to the middle.


i just wanted to make sure i didn't have to do it all at once


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

erevlydeux said:


> As far as resistoring the pump.... I don't have my Bentley with me, but I'm 99.9% sure it's relayed power, aka there is no need for a resistor.


Can anyone confirm this? If this is true, then it will save me a lot of time and trouble of hunting down a single resistor for the SAI (I'm leaving the N249 and N112 plugged in and I'm not deleting the EVAP).

Edit: Nevermind, I saw what reflected posted in another thread and it looks like you don't need to resistor the SAI pump:



reflected said:


> you dont need a resistor on the sec air pump plug. you can just leave it unplugged. leaving the 112/249 valves plugged in electronically is about all you need to do. you will still get sec air incorrect flow codes though. unless your software has the delete.


PS: For those who are using resistors, I would personally use 1w minimum. I'll spare you the number crunching but I calculated 0.65w at 14.7V...


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

im having trouble finding the 90 degree elbows and ''t'' 3/4 elbow :banghead::banghead:
can some1 please shoot a pic of it and where to get?

the places i went no one knows what im talking about:screwy:


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

anyone?


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## beatrixkiddo (Apr 26, 2008)

i was just at oreilly's auto parts tonight and saw they have some miscellaneous fittings and hoses. probably autozone or any place like that.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Those are the same ones I have been including in my kit for about a month now. I kinda figured you were up to something when you were asking for part numbers and dimensions for the hosing and stuff. Just do me a favor and do not advertise your kits in my threads, that would be :thumbdown:

Otherwise, good luck :beer: Look forward to some competition. 



erevlydeux said:


> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23530&catid=551
> 
> I just got some samples in for a kit I'm looking to offer, similar to nstevic's kit, from the mfg of the aforementioned fittings: Eldon James. All I can say is: top notch. It's also a nice thing that the fittings are made in the U.S.A., which isn't a big deal to some people, but I'm proud about it...


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Advance Auto carries them, they are part # 47063 (you need 2 of these) and part # 47141 (you need 1 of these). They are special order and usually take a day or 2 to get.



Rozy said:


> im having trouble finding the 90 degree elbows and ''t'' 3/4 elbow :banghead::banghead:
> can some1 please shoot a pic of it and where to get?
> 
> the places i went no one knows what im talking about:screwy:


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## thedevilsequal (Mar 23, 2007)

bookmarked cause i'm at work


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

thedevilsequal said:


> bookmarked cause i'm at work



we need to know this because.......


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

thanx bro i got the parts u gave me the part number to i got them on the same day at bennet auto supply


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## beatrixkiddo (Apr 26, 2008)

Took us 3 days of working on it after work, yea whatever, this was our first attempt at mechanic work. Thanks for the kit nstevic01  

It was probably mentioned, but can the codes be deleted via vag-com or does it have to be done by another program? Not cleared, but removed is what I'm asking.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

beatrixkiddo said:


> can the codes be deleted via vag-com or does it have to be done by another program? Not cleared, but removed is what I'm asking.


Vag com can not get rid of almost any of the codes

Aftermarket tuners can get rid of many codes

Getting rid of codes does not mean the smog people can't see past it, if you're in a nazi state.

Even if you get rid of codes in software, you have to put resistors in the places of some of the components.


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## beatrixkiddo (Apr 26, 2008)

Thanks groggory. We got the resistors in the kit, just haven't put them in, yet. I think I'm going to get some plug and play ones instead. We are in Oklahoma so no inspections anymore, yay. 

Guess I need to find a local tuner to delete the codes :beer:


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

Finally got around to deleting the SAI system today. I kept the N249 and N112 plugged in and I didn't bother using a resistor on the SAI wiring. I have the expected fault code for SAI incorrect flow but no CELs so far.

I also made my own block off plate for the combi-valve location out of an aluminum plate :thumbup:


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## munky18t (Aug 30, 2004)

I did the SAI/N249 delete and i've been running in to issues with my DV surging... I'm running a Bailey DV and the DV is hooked up directly to the manifold... anyone else run into this?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

munky18t said:


> I did the SAI/N249 delete and i've been running in to issues with my DV surging... I'm running a Bailey DV and the DV is hooked up directly to the manifold... anyone else run into this?


I have it hooked up like you...but I also have a greddy EBC. Make sure your DV is greased properly, the o-rings are in good shape, and you have no boost leaks/vac leaks


----------



## munky18t (Aug 30, 2004)

groggory said:


> I have it hooked up like you...but I also have a greddy EBC. Make sure your DV is greased properly, the o-rings are in good shape, and you have no boost leaks/vac leaks


Vacuum is about 19-20inHg at idle, so i'm confident there are no leaks... My plan is to tear the DV apart, inspect it and grease it up.. but i'm kinda wondering if the spring is too stiff for the DV to be held open without the help of the vac reservoir


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

munky18t said:


> Vacuum is about 19-20inHg at idle, so i'm confident there are no leaks...


Wrong. With that test you can't make that assumption


----------



## munky18t (Aug 30, 2004)

groggory said:


> Wrong. With that test you can't make that assumption



No?? how come? what am i missing


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

munky18t said:


> No?? how come? what am i missing


If we asked you to complete a leak test we'd say, 'do a leak test'. If we asked you to report back what your vacuum was at idle we'd ask that.

First of all, on a stock engine I normally see 21-22 inches of mercury at idle, not 19. Secondly, there are about a half dozen check valves in your vac system that could make the reading at your boost gauge not pick up the leak...but your boost gauge is telling us what the boost/vac is at the source you've tapped it in to.

How do I know this? Because I have made the same wrong assumption as you before. I thought that because I had a good strong vac at idle I had no vac leaks. But my car wasn't running right. I did a boost leak test and lo and behold the bend coming off the crank case going to my crank case was almost split in two. Plus two other hoses that had splits on the seams in the under-manifold area.

So I'll say it again. Do a boost/leak test. Turbo cars (especially MAF equipped turbo cars) like ours do not play nice with leaks of metered air.


----------



## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

My engine bay after the removing the SAI system and bypassing the N112 and N249. I left them plugged in. I also made my own block off plate out of a small section of 1/8" aluminum plate










Only issue so far is the the "failed or incomplete" readiness of the SAI system (as expected). No CELs so far, and the "SAI incorrect flow" fault code seems to be hit or miss. It came up on the first start after removing the SAI system, but I haven't seen it ever since.


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

FWIW...

Emission test before the treatment:









Emission test after the treatment *with ECU deletes* via reflected:


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## jrocco19 (May 20, 2007)

where is everyone getting the pre-made resistors?? i have a aww motor if that matters?? anyone in the Tri-state area done this already ?? could use an extra hand ---


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## 20vturbslo (Feb 26, 2010)

jrocco19 said:


> where is everyone getting the pre-made resistors?? i have a aww motor if that matters?? anyone in the Tri-state area done this already ?? could use an extra hand ---


erevlydeux FTW


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

i'm sure a few people hav already asked these questions, but im lazy and dont wanna search the whole thread for 'em, so.

With all this off will my GTI, non 20th AE, still pass smog?

do i HAVE TO hav a Catch Can?

i live in CA, btw.

thanks in advance.


----------



## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> i'm sure a few people hav already asked these questions, but im lazy and dont wanna search the whole thread for 'em, so.
> 
> With all this off will my GTI, non 20th AE, still pass smog?
> 
> ...


One look under the hood and you will fail. It doesn't matter what your emissions are in Ca. You will not pass the visual inspection and this will cause the check engine light to come on which will also fail you.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

You don't need a catch can

Almost any mods will fail your smog in CA


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## mobtowntree (Mar 22, 2010)

*Did Mine!!!*

I did this delete yesterday with the exception of the blue balls. I left all that alone because my main concern was the engine bay and that seemed to be hidden enough and saved a little time also. I also kept the bracket that is in front of the intake manifold mainly because I had already bought this carbon fiber piece and I didn't want to let it go. I also liked that it held the dipstick off the manifold just a bit. I used 034's catch can and hoses (exept a few). 

I also changed my Injector "O" rings, installed an 034 spacer gasket for the manifold and replaced my thermostat while i was at it.

So all that, tuck the injector wires and add the carbon fiber covers and this is the finished project

I think it turned out pretty good.

at least for today eace:

P.S. thanks for the help nstevic01

BEFORE... (on a nicer day)











AFTER... (not as bright)


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

*FV-QR*

got all my parts, are their dimensions for the hose lengths that i missed somewhere?


----------



## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

woteg said:


> got all my parts, are their dimensions for the hose lengths that i missed somewhere?


Page 1 has the lengths, as far as the "custom" pcv hose, just look at the image of it and assemble one. Should be around 2-3 inches for the small cuts and close to 12 inches on the big one. Just hold it up to the area and cut what you need. 

I'd get you the exact measurements but Im not at home.


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## 20vGetta (Oct 8, 2006)

opcorn:


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## Dub Ken (Dec 24, 2004)

So I performed this DIY over the weekend. It took me a good 10 hours but man it was worth it. First of all, I had some leaky breather lines and I was getting oil vapors all under the intake manifold making a huge mess. This was my main concern and I wasn't shelling out the bucks for the OEM hoses. So I deleted everything including the EVAP.

I know a lot of people said they didn't see a performance difference, but holy crap I did. 2nd gear pulls HARD now and my spool up is a lot quicker. This is probably because the crap I pulled out had a lot of issues so now there are no more leaks. But I really had no idea how much performance I was really missing out on. Actually, I had to retard my timing a bit because the boost is coming on so hard and strong now that I was getting some pre-detonation. I have no DTCs after throwing the resistors on. I am coding out the removed components this week. :thumbup:

Thank you to nstevic01 for the wonderful DIY writeup (and the kit which worked out great). :thumbup::beer::thumbup::beer:


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Dub Ken said:


> So I performed this DIY over the weekend. It took me a good 10 hours but man it was worth it. First of all, I had some leaky breather lines and I was getting oil vapors all under the intake manifold making a huge mess. This was my main concern and I wasn't shelling out the bucks for the OEM hoses. So I deleted everything including the EVAP.
> 
> I know a lot of people said they didn't see a performance difference, but holy crap I did. 2nd gear pulls HARD now and my spool up is a lot quicker. This is probably because the crap I pulled out had a lot of issues so now there are no more leaks. But I really had no idea how much performance I was really missing out on. Actually, I had to retard my timing a bit because the boost is coming on so hard and strong now that I was getting some pre-detonation. I have no DTCs after throwing the resistors on. I am coding out the removed components this week. :thumbup:
> 
> Thank you to nstevic01 for the wonderful DIY writeup (and the kit which worked out great). :thumbup::beer::thumbup::beer:





:thumbup::beer:

I should perhaps add that a beer must be had once the removal is done. I've done around 5 now, and they are still brutal. Every car has its own quirks that need to be worked around.


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## builtvw (Sep 20, 2009)

nicely down i plan on doing this to eliminate boost leak opportunities, but i have a CEL for something i haven't figured out yet (think its the N75) and my boost is going crazy. do you think it'd be a better idea to fix that before i do all these deletes


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

builtvw said:


> nicely down i plan on doing this to eliminate boost leak opportunities, but i have a CEL for something i haven't figured out yet (think its the N75) and my boost is going crazy. do you think it'd be a better idea to fix that before i do all these deletes


It can be done either way, in most cases this ends up fixing most boost leaks. If anything, you do this delete and you still have your issues, you've narrowed it down that much further.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

nstevic01 said:


> It can be done either way, in most cases this ends up fixing most boost leaks. If anything, you do this delete and you still have your issues, you've narrowed it down that much further.


yup, i do recommend doing this. it cleans up the engine bay so much and also elminates a lot a possible boost leaks. the extra ports off the intake mani that are freed up come in handy too (mbc, dv/bov, wastegates, etc) :thumbup:


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## builtvw (Sep 20, 2009)

yah i know that i have 1 boost leak that i attempted to fix but i didn't have the right size hose and this will delete that cause its one of the hoses off the oil cooler into the intake mani


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## Shamrock (Aug 7, 2004)

Car still running decent, upgraded to Maestro suite and passed inspection back in June


----------



## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

BEFORE:

AFTER:


watch out for the breather hose elbow tube, mine was fully cracked when took out the manifold so the stealership i went...good thing they had in stock.


ALL THE JUNK THAT CAME OFF

Sr. Karmann on the job


----------



## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

BIGGER PICS, BEFORE:


AFTER:


----------



## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

so i just did this emission delete and i did not put any resistors..what will happen if i leave it the way it is with no resistors? i have no tune,bone stock...can i get away without resistors?


----------



## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

erevlydeux said:


> No fuel trims, so you could have a car that doesn't run 100% or has less-than-optimal MPG, etc etc. If your O2 sensors are good and new, you're probably OK if you really don't care about CELs popping up.. but other than that, you're gonna have some CELs and no fuel trims. Note that some of the CELs need to be coded out anyways, and will not disappear whether or not you have resistors.


 gotha i dont care about cels i just dont want nothing f**kin up my mpg or what not..thanks


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## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

Rozy said:


> gotha i dont care about cels i just dont want nothing f**kin up my mpg or what not..thanks


You can leave the N112 and N249 valves plugged in. The SAI can be left untouched. I'm not sure about the EVAP delete though


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> I always thought it odd that people would leave all of that **** in considering it's a delete.... :sly:


X2


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

i deleted all of them


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Rozy said:


> i deleted all of them


----------



## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

erevlydeux said:


> I always thought it odd that people would leave all of that **** in considering it's a delete.... :sly:


Different strokes for different folks. I deleted them to simplify the vacuum lines. Resistors are great but I didn't see the point if existing components serve the same purpose. I can still tuck "all of that sh*t" (which is really only two valves) away for a clean look too. End result is the same so what's the difference? *shrugs*


----------



## bootymac (Apr 19, 2005)

erevlydeux said:


> Without cutting the harness open, where are you going to "hide" those two valves? I'd be curious because I didn't see that much space without pulling the wiring all the way back to the ECU, or atleast the wiring tunnel near the battery.


I simply tucked the N112 and N249 valves beneath the intake manifold and secured the SAI pump wiring to a nearby line. None of them are visible. Works for me


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

^^^looks tight :beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

bootymac said:


> I simply tucked the N112 and N249 valves beneath the intake manifold and secured the SAI pump wiring to a nearby line. None of them are visible. Works for me


thats super clean :thumbup:


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

I'm tackling it all this weekend (provided my resistors from erevlydeux and my sai block plate get here by Friday). 

My question is...do you all find it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to to get it done? I have done a lot under there without removing it. I just dont want the extra work if I dont need to. Anyone complete it without removing the manifold?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Exhaust manifold, no. Most of the needed work is under the intake manifold. Removing it makes the job much, much easier.


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

Sorry...I actually had a brain lapse...I did intend to say intake manifold. We'll see how it goes this weekend I guess. I'd like to not bother with taking the fuel rail and manifold off, but if it's necessary I will. I need to swap my oil pan as well so I'm hoping not to take 8 hours of my day on the car.


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

ajsnow6234 said:


> Sorry...I actually had a brain lapse...I did intend to say intake manifold. We'll see how it goes this weekend I guess. I'd like to not bother with taking the fuel rail and manifold off, but if it's necessary I will. I need to swap my oil pan as well so I'm hoping not to take 8 hours of my day on the car.


 dont rush thing or your asking for trouble


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

I hope to prove myself wrong, but I have a feeling the oil pan might prove more difficult. Seems like a pretty clear replacement...but I dont want to jinx myself in thinking that.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

ajsnow6234 said:


> Sorry...I actually had a brain lapse...I did intend to say intake manifold. We'll see how it goes this weekend I guess. I'd like to not bother with taking the fuel rail and manifold off, but if it's necessary I will. I need to swap my oil pan as well so I'm hoping not to take 8 hours of my day on the car.



The fuel rail itself does not have to be removed, just unmounted and moved over top the valve cover. Intake manifold should take you around 15 mins to remove, and make the job go much much faster. I tried it at first without removing it and I found it harder to get at things, so I eventually broke down and just removed it. 

I would probably plan on 8 hours, the first couple of these I did took close to that alone, the next few I was able to get down to a tidy 6 hours. Each car had it's own set of issues to deal with along the way. Plan on stuff breaking, seized bolts, and other WTF moments. 

Plan for the worst, expect the best. 

Good luck and let me know how it goes.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

nstevic01 said:


> Each car had it's own set of issues to deal with along the way. Plan on stuff breaking, seized bolts, and other WTF moments.
> 
> Plan for the worst, expect the best.
> 
> Good luck and let me know how it goes.


so true LOL. i did mine without removing the intake mani :thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> i did mine without removing the intake mani :thumbup:


Me too.. I cut the sai bracket, then removed what was left


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

erevlydeux said:


> You definitely want to take off the intake manifold. It makes things way easier. You'll be hard-pressed to take out the SAI pump with the intake manifold still on.
> 
> One word of advice, though: make SURE you have a telescoping magnet to pull out, and to put back in, the nuts/bolts for the intake manifold. It's tight quarters in there and you don't want to be dropping anything in that area. :thumbup:


Sent you a couple emails and ordered from your website. Are you there!?!  Haven't received any confirmation of the order or shipping, etc. Hoping to do this on the weekend if the weather is right...


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Me too.. I cut the sai bracket, then removed what was left


Last time I took off the vacuum lines and "fixed" my sai pump I never took off the intake manifold. I'm determined not to, but we'll see.


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks for the update! I'll be looking forward to them, they look great.


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

Some of you may have seen the DIY in the link below. Looks like he decided to keep the hockey puck...any reason at all to do that? 

http://fendubbers.forummotion.com/t7454-18-t-pcv-simplification


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## Nevaeh_Speed (Jul 9, 2004)

Anybody get the improper flow code to go away with lowering the warm up fuel and startup fuel with unisettings or just one?


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## wagner17 (Oct 20, 2009)

:thumbup:doing this when i do my t belt


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

Got the resistors today...can't wait to do this but stupid hurricane put a dent in my plans. Hopefully doing this Thursday now and I need to wait for the Forge TIP I ordered today.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ :beer: for the forge tip:thumbup:


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ :beer: for the forge tip:thumbup:


 I have a feeling I'm going to go through a long series of swear words starting all this. Oil pan will probably be the easiest of all I'm doing...


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Has no one in here seen these? 

http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-1/ 

http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-2/


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## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

ajsnow6234 said:


> Some of you may have seen the DIY in the link below. Looks like he decided to keep the hockey puck...any reason at all to do that?
> 
> http://fendubbers.forummotion.com/t7454-18-t-pcv-simplification


 ^this 
i've drove ~2k miles on mine running a 90* elbow into the tip


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

*FV-QR*

I did this following the video DIY from Sav and have a few pointers from it: 

-Read and then re-read any DIY you plan on following. I watched those video DIY's so many times that I memorized them. I knew what to do next without having to re-visit the DIY. 
-Be careful with those two small vacuum nipples on the driver's side of the intake manifold. I broke one off while removing the hose and was left with an un-pluggable hole. 
-USE RESISTORS. They will allow your fuel trims to adapt and will make the car run better in the long run. 
-I didn't find removing the intake manifold necessary. Removing that bracket opened up plenty of room to do what I needed to get done under there. 
-Since you're in the area - clean things up. I tucked my injector harness under the fuel rail to clean things up a bit. You're already in the area, why not? 
-Be careful reinstalling the coolant flange. A life of heating and cooling has made that plastic brittle. Over tightening even just a little bit made mine snap. 
-For the love of God, do not remove that O-ring in the coolant flange for "safe keeping". I fought with that rubber son of a bitch for almost half an hour to get it back in. It's over-sized for the flange to make a solid seal. 

If I remember anything else that could be helpful I'll post up.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ :thumbup:


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

FTMFW said:


> If I remember anything else that could be helpful I'll post up.


 thanks... Nice addition there, I'm going to take a look at those vids now. 

Still not sure why to keep the hockey puck...


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

FTMFW said:


> Has no one in here seen these?
> 
> http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-1/
> 
> http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/1-8t-engine-bay-cleanup-part-2/


 Holy crap that first one is an hour!?! Well... Might watch tomorrow, but I'm guessing it will benefit the process. Still appreciate the OP's extensive DIY here though.


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

ajsnow6234 said:


> thanks... Nice addition there, I'm going to take a look at those vids now.
> 
> Still not sure why to keep the hockey puck...


 The only reason to keep the hockey puck is if you're not going to run a catch can that's VTA. If you're using a catch can that's routed back into the intake it doesn't hurt to run the puck. Most people further simplify their PCV system though by deleting it and running an elbow. 

*VTA=Vent to Atmosphere


----------



## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

Ummm... Ok. I think you're partially just confusing me more. Run an elbow to what? 

I am going to watch that video but other than that I am going to follow this DIY to a T. I havent found my catch can yet, but I like the stealth one from 42DD


----------



## White Jetta (Mar 17, 2002)

ajsnow6234 said:


> Ummm... Ok. I think you're partially just confusing me more. Run an elbow to what?


 To the TIP where the hockey puck was. You'll just be replacing it with an elbow for direct re-routing back into the intake but through a catchcan first.


----------



## WiscoVR6 (Jul 25, 2008)

Ahhh man, finally knocked this project out this weekend with help from stevic.. Thanks again man. The DIY was pretty much flawless and the end result is great. I kept the EVAP system because i was to lazy to remove it this weekend, Im also running w/o the resistors till this weekend. 

Worst things about this project is removing the SAI pump bracket! Also one of the SAI hoses that connected to the n249 bracket was rusted out so that needed to be cut off. I lost basically half my coolant during the process. 

I found it to be easier to remove the intake manifold, it made it alot easier to put on my new south gastket and get at the oil cooler housing elbow that i broke :banghead: The project took me about 4.5 hours with a couple skipped steps.

I used the stealth 42dd catch can with no hockey puck, so far the car seems to be very healthy im throwing codes but the purpose of me doing this project was to fix my vacuum leak... I went from 12 in/hg to 22 in/hg!!!

The other best thing is w/o the SAI my car doesnt sound like a helicopter power down when i turn it off... 

Thanks for the write up.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

So quick question and I'm sure this has been asked before. By just removing the combi valve and only the combi valve will you fail any kind of readiness checks?


----------



## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

travis_gli said:


> So quick question and I'm sure this has been asked before. By just removing the combi valve and only the combi valve will you fail any kind of readiness checks?


Yes.

Been over that a few times in this thread...


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

ajsnow6234 said:


> Yes.
> 
> Been over that a few times in this thread...


I know by removing the smog pump THEN you will fail readiness I haven't seen anything mentioned about the combivalve.


----------



## VDubn04 (Jun 17, 2007)

possibly the greatest DIY ever! :thumbup:


----------



## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

VDubn04 said:


> possibly the greatest DIY ever! :thumbup:



:beer:


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

ajsnow6234 said:


> Yes.
> 
> Been over that a few times in this thread...


You know I've been following this thread since day 1 and I could've swore I never seen anything so I went back and read all 8 pages. I'm going to ask this question again considering all 8 pages of this thread never mentioned anything about combi valve and readiness or emissions. I also noticed that readiness was only mentioned once in the entire 8 pages and that was only regarding NYC emissions for removing everything. I'm under the impression that you didn't read the thread yourself. :screwy: But I'm glad you are capable of coming back with such a smart remark about something you know nothing about. :facepalm:

*
If you remove the combi valve and ONLY the combi valve will you fail readiness checks for emissions? How many readiness checks will fail? I know PA allows 1 or 2 to fail without failing emissions entirely.*


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> Combi valve is how the SAI pump pushes air into the cylinder head, so yeah, you'll still have an improper flow code from no combi.


That would mean that the combi valve has some sort of sensor within it correct? I'm also guessing the improper flow code is tied directly to readiness. Btw thank you for answering my question. :thumbup:


----------



## AmIdYfReAk (Nov 8, 2006)

travis_gli said:


> That would mean that the combi valve has some sort of sensor within it correct? I'm also guessing the improper flow code is tied directly to readiness. Btw thank you for answering my question. :thumbup:


Nope, there is no sensor within it. 

The sensor that detects the improper flow is the rear O/2 ( Post cat ). 

when the car is warming up ( rich ) the SAI Shoots Air into the exhaust to light the cat off and burn the fuel out of it. That's what the rear o/2 confirms. 

If there is no air, The o/2 gets the wrong reading, Bam! Code!


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

AmIdYfReAk said:


> Nope, there is no sensor within it.
> 
> The sensor that detects the improper flow is the rear O/2 ( Post cat ).
> 
> ...


I have no cat and my post o2 sensor is pulled away from the exhaust.... wouldn't that affect the results.


----------



## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

*FV-QR*

Unless the software you're running on the car has the code deletes then you will forever have improper flow codes from you evap and SAI systems. Not everyone gets them but some do. Having the O2 sensor spaced out helps your car not throw codes for the catalytic converter working improperly (or not existing in your case) from everything I've read. It doesn't help prevent improper flow codes however. I see in your signature that you're running APR and I don't know if they offer anything like that. I know Unitronic does but you have to decide if paying close to $600 is worth it to get the lights turned off in your dash.


----------



## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

FTMFW said:


> Unless the software you're running on the car has the code deletes then you will forever have improper flow codes from you evap and SAI systems. Not everyone gets them but some do. Having the O2 sensor spaced out helps your car not throw codes for the catalytic converter working improperly (or not existing in your case) from everything I've read. It doesn't help prevent improper flow codes however. I see in your signature that you're running APR and I don't know if they offer anything like that. I know Unitronic does but you have to decide if paying close to $600 is worth it to get the lights turned off in your dash.


APR's and Unitronic's SAI deletes only get rid of CEL's nothing more. They take the system out of the software entirely resulting in readiness still failing. At least that was to my complete understanding. They won't force readiness because of legality issues. I already emailed both vendors about the situation and this is the response I got from both.

I guess at this point my best bet at this point is to disconnect the combi valve completely and run the car, possibly go try to get it inspected when the time comes.


----------



## lunitik (Aug 1, 2011)

*i did this and got a cel*

P0441 evap incorrect purge flow

help diagnosing? maybe faulty resistor? please help! 


03 gti
aeb head
3''dp
mbc
2.5" apr stainless exhaust 
and this ultimate delete.


----------



## lunitik (Aug 1, 2011)

put ur hockey puck in, i suggest. mine sucked oil through the vents and rolled alot of blue smoke! i put mine back in and it never did it again.


----------



## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

So glad to have this all done now. Put in a 42DD Stealth Catch Can. Also got tuned by Gonzo and had the necessary emissions deleted, no CELs.

Was a little disappointed that the oval resistors I bought from PostReleased did not fit on my SAI plug though.




























Also threw in a Forge TIP and 007 DV while I was in there:









Sorry a couple the pics were a little shaky. Thanks a bunch to the original poster...big help man!


----------



## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

ajsnow6234,

where did you get your hoses from?


----------



## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

hollywood084 said:


> ajsnow6234,
> 
> where did you get your hoses from?


Advanced Auto Parts...think they were less than $5


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## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

erevlydeux said:


> My website explicitly states that the oval-style resistor that I sell is *not* for the SAI pump connector itself - the SAI pump connector is larger. The one I sell is for the N80 (EVAP) valve. If it didn't fit your N80 connector, then that's definitely an issue and I am more than happy to send you a replacement... just shoot me an e-mail at [email protected] :thumbup:


I will gladly take a beating for not thoroughly reading and being impatient when ordering! :beer::beer:

Anyway, besides the fact that I don't currently have a resistor on the SAI, the others snapped on smoothly and saved me a lot of time. Thanks again! 

I guess since I have the CELs removed through the ECU, I don't even need a resistor on the SAI?


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## taotao (Dec 29, 2009)

*great*

great guide, I already clean the SAI/N249/ somebody now how i can do the PCV/EVAP on BJX engine code ? it is same+- on all 1.8T.


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## jokerny77 (Jul 1, 2008)

pm


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## jokerny77 (Jul 1, 2008)

some people say no some say yes. anyway to pass a NYC emissions inspection with deleting all this stuff? some other states have to have similar inspections


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

jokerny77 said:


> some people say no some say yes. anyway to pass a NYC emissions inspection with deleting all this stuff? some other states have to have similar inspections


 I'm sure it's pretty close to PA. Here's my understanding. If you remove everything, no you won't pass. If you remove everything and talk to a few users on here that can code out your ECU's readiness to always pass, then yes, you will pass. If you have APR software you won't be able to have it coded out as APR encrypts their software. Also if you use any of the software vendors "evap delete" options this will not force readiness and will not cause you to pass. It will simply allow you to not have to resistor anything because it removes all programming around the evap systems. If anything this will cause you to fail much quicker (so to say) because everything would be no longer existent. That would throw a big red light for the emissions machine. 

I guess a real simple test to debunk all of the acquisitions involved with this process would be to just leave everything on the car and start resistoring off the components. Then take the car in for emissions and see what happens. If it fails just remove the resistors, plug everything back in and drive the car.


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## jokerny77 (Jul 1, 2008)

sounds like a reasonable idea. running unitronics software


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## ThegreyT_1 (Sep 30, 2006)

I love when I see threads like this that are useful, Nice write up and pics:thumbup:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

so i have a tt 225. all i want to do is delete the n249. i removed it from off the valve cover, and left the solenoid plugged in. the DV is t'd to another vac source. 

i got an improper flow code for the SAI. 
i capped off the two vac lines that go to under the intake manifold. 
Im guessing i should have maybe routed one of these to another vac source rather than cap it off. 

anybody know?


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

excellent guide :thumbup: 

hopefully I'll do this soon


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## savphili (Jun 4, 2004)

Quick question about the catch can. I have a catch can that only has one port and I have that connected to the valve cover only. My concern is that I left the oil cooler housing open with just a filter right now until I find a proper catch can system that will accommodate it. 

My question is can I run tubing the way you have run it in the DIY, from the valve cover to a "T" connection with the oil cooler housing and then to a catch can mounted back by the fire wall without the other line going to the TIP? or do you need that line to the TIP as vacuum? I'm worried that if I mount the catch can up higher by the firewall and don't have the additional line, that the excess oil stuff will not travel to the catch can due to gravity.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

savphili said:


> Quick question about the catch can. I have a catch can that only has one port and I have that connected to the valve cover only. My concern is that I left the oil cooler housing open with just a filter right now until I find a proper catch can system that will accommodate it.
> 
> My question is can I run tubing the way you have run it in the DIY, from the valve cover to a "T" connection with the oil cooler housing and then to a catch can mounted back by the fire wall without the other line going to the TIP? or do you need that line to the TIP as vacuum? I'm worried that if I mount the catch can up higher by the firewall and don't have the additional line, that the excess oil stuff will not travel to the catch can due to gravity.


If you have a vent to atmosphere can (catch can with a filter on top) just make sure all of your breather lines run into that can and make sure you plug the tip where the hockey puck valve is. Simple as that. Or get yourself a quality catch can and keep the recirculation system that the car is programed for. :thumbup:


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

I'm not really sure why a catch can is really even necessary. I have my entire PCV system routed right out the bottom of the car. I had a catch can in there, VTA, and it was pointless. The filter was soaked from the vapors and eventually it just started spraying oil vapor throughout my engine bay. I routed that stuff right out the bottom now and haven't had any issues since.


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

*Evap issues on TT 225 AMU Roadster*

I was attempting the EVAP delete but there are no blue balls. There is a black vacuum reservoir next to the power steering reservoir that the lines go into but then the lines go into the finder and connect to the leak detection pump and N115? I removed the Evap lines, Vac reservoir and resistored the N80. Then I and capped the lines on the leak detection pump. Now I am getting a 17884 - EVAP Emission Contr.LDP Circ Malfunction/Insufficient Vacuum. Any Ideas? I guess I should just hook all that **** back up. :facepalm:


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## Tate393 (Jun 21, 2011)

I have a feeling im gonna get killed by asking this but what does this delete and catch can add do and how does it benefit u???


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

erevlydeux said:


> Probably because most people don't want oil dripping in their drive.


If you're venting enough to actually drip or spray oil under the car, you've got bigger problems than just having oil down there...

The only reason my filter was "spraying" oil was because after several weeks it finally accumulated enough to start making a mess. And since it had a place to accumulate (the filter) it then was able to spray.


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

emtguy82 said:


> I was attempting the EVAP delete but there are no blue balls. There is a black vacuum reservoir next to the power steering reservoir that the lines go into but then the lines go into the finder and connect to the leak detection pump and N115? I removed the Evap lines, Vac reservoir and resistored the N80. Then I and capped the lines on the leak detection pump. Now I am getting a 17884 - EVAP Emission Contr.LDP Circ Malfunction/Insufficient Vacuum. Any Ideas? I guess I should just hook all that **** back up. :facepalm:


Did you pull the passenger side fender liner? The blue balls should be under there.


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

*I did remove the fender, no blue balls.*

I believe it is because it is a AMU engine or Roadster, but there is no blue balls. In its place is an air pump the hooks to a vacuum reservoir. The pump in the fender has a 3 wire connector so I don't really know how to resistor it. Here is a link to what is under the fender http://www.audifreaks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Tate393 said:


> I have a feeling im gonna get killed by asking this but what does this delete and catch can add do and how does it benefit u???


This is a technical forum. Please read the thread before posting sir


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Anyone here rip out their LDP and charcoal canister?


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

I was trying to delete that stuff but don't know how to resistor a 3 wire plug. It may be simple, I just don't know how.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

emtguy82 said:


> I was trying to delete that stuff but don't know how to resistor a 3 wire plug. It may be simple, I just don't know how.


what 3 wire plug? I do not recall any that were 3 wires.


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

The one that is plugged into the Leak Detection Pump is 3 wires. It is not mentioned in any of the DIY delete pages. It is located where the blue balls would be. here is a link with a pic. in the 2nd pic you can see the connection is 3 wires.http://www.audifreaks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Yeah, I'm stuck on the 3 wires also. Two of the wires have about 1.5 volts and the other one is dead.


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## jrocco19 (May 20, 2007)

*Question*

Can you just plug where the hockey puck was and run the line from the valve cover to the catch can or is there a reason why it's ran the way it is??


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## emtguy82 (Jun 14, 2011)

If you put the hockey puck back into the TIP, just run the outlet line of the catch can back to the hockey puck. So it will be similar to the stock set up, just with a catch can in the middle of the loop so it filters the oil vapor out before it goes back to the intake.


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## taotao (Dec 29, 2009)

*Hi*

Hi all,

this is my engine, I already removed SAI/N249, what left is PCV+EVAP.
now and as you can see, i removed all the sensor from the TIP (ECU remove), so there isent any "Hockey puck" sensor, no the EVAP i can removed it and close the vacuum, for the PCV which catch can i need ? open ? close ?






http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/90/imag0159t.jpg/


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## Tate393 (Jun 21, 2011)

What is the other end of this hose from the catch can connecting to?? the one going behind the DV.


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## Tate393 (Jun 21, 2011)

erevlydeux said:


> It's going to where the hockey puck normally goes.


what is the purpose of the hockey puck? does it have a similar purpose as the catch can? and should the hockey puck be removed when adding a catch can? im new with the whole catch can stuff


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## jrocco19 (May 20, 2007)

Alright so .. What r the results out their between hockey puck or no hockey puck?? Just trying to get feedback.. Or is there no difference 

Also what about running the line straight from the vc to the catch can which some have done and not even running a line back to where the hockey puck was...


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Hockey puck isn't needed. If you're running a "vent to atmosphere" catch can then you will be running a line directly from the valve cover to the catch can. If you go this route you can either leave the "hockey puck" plugged into the turbo inlet pipe with a plug on the open end of it, or you can find a plug that will fill the hole left in the turbo inlet pipe by completely removing the hockey puck.

If you're running a recirculated type catch can then, again, you can run a line directly to the catch can from the valve cover. From the catch can though you will run a line to the hockey puck. If you choose though, you can remove the hockey puck and put a 90* or 45* elbow in its place. Then you will run a line from the catch can to the elbow.

I hope that clears it up for you.

This (small) photo is my engine bay. The two lines going to the catch can come from the valve cover and the oil filter housing. The left line goes directly to the valve cover, and the right line runs directly to the oil filter housing. My "hockey puck" is removed and plugged with a brass plug from Ace Hardware. Tomorrow, if you need it, I will get bigger photos and post them up for you.


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

emtguy82 said:


> The one that is plugged into the Leak Detection Pump is 3 wires. It is not mentioned in any of the DIY delete pages. It is located where the blue balls would be. here is a link with a pic. in the 2nd pic you can see the connection is 3 wires.http://www.audifreaks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303


I got this solved. Check here. :thumbup:


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## Azierus (Nov 17, 2007)

Did this a while back but finally got around to posting some pictures. Originally I had yanked the evap, but got horrible gas mileage so I put it back in. Everything else is resistored and im only gettin a cel for not having the SAI pump. Overall im very pleased with the mod. I know where every vacuum line is and what it goes to. Well enough talking, heres the pics.

Before


















And after


























Thanks again nstevic :beer::beer:


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

I really like the wrinkle black on the VC and IM. I plan to do the same:thumbup:


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## Azierus (Nov 17, 2007)

rains said:


> I really like the wrinkle black on the VC and IM. I plan to do the same:thumbup:


Thanks :beer: I first wanted to do the VC red but on second thought figured it would be too much so I stuck with the black so it would look kinda plain, yet clean


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## taotao (Dec 29, 2009)

*HI*

I have hard difficult to understand this catch can why I need it ? 
There is a possibility to change the line (AN etc) but maintain the original route of this system ?

this is only ventilation ? there will be no oil in the catch can (after some driving) ?


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

I give up on explaining it. If you look over maybe the last two pages of this thread it's been explained several times several different ways.


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## hollywood084 (Feb 9, 2010)

Azierus said:


> Thanks :beer: I first wanted to do the VC red but on second thought figured it would be too much so I stuck with the black so it would look kinda plain, yet clean


It's looks really good. Something like this? http://www.seymourpaint.com/black_wrinkle.html


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## Gtowndubber (Jun 4, 2010)

Awesome write up will do in the near future!


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

Gotta do this, pcv is jacked! Thanks to everyone for contributing.


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## Azierus (Nov 17, 2007)

hollywood084 said:


> It's looks really good. Something like this? http://www.seymourpaint.com/black_wrinkle.html


im sure that will work too, but I just got some stuff from discount auto. I put about 3 coats on and let it sit in the sun my whole work shift (9 - 7) lol


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## WiscoVR6 (Jul 25, 2008)

Has anyone recieved a P0103 Code after doing this delete? If so what did you do to fix. I resistored all except evap since i kept it. Gas mileage sucks slight stumble at start up.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

FTMFW said:


> I give up on explaining it.


LMAO, thats how i feel about intakes, "chips", and BOV/DV threads


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> LMAO, thats how i feel about intakes, "chips", and BOV/DV threads


I used to think people were kinda dicks for not answering such simple questions! But after I, personally, have answered that same question literally dozens of times in dozens of threads, I just got sick of it! In a thread that involves processes significantly more involved than changing your tires, such as this one, you would think that people would READ the damn thing before asking questions!! My God!! What a novel concept!


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

FTMFW said:


> I used to think people were kinda dicks for not answering such simple questions! But after I, personally, have answered that same question literally dozens of times in dozens of threads, I just got sick of it! In a thread that involves processes significantly more involved than changing your tires, such as this one, you would think that people would READ the damn thing before asking questions!! My God!! What a novel concept!


20% of the people do 80% of the work. Period.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Andaloons said:


> 20% of the people do 80% of the work. Period.




:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

FTMFW said:


> I used to think people were kinda dicks for not answering such simple questions! But after I, personally, have answered that same question literally dozens of times in dozens of threads, I just got sick of it! In a thread that involves processes significantly more involved than changing your tires, such as this one, you would think that people would READ the damn thing before asking questions!! My God!! What a novel concept!


nobody wants to search for the info they need anymore. they think everybody is supposed to spoon feed em. i'll search for hours, days, or weeks until i find the info i need. also i suspect a lot of people dont know how to search lol. i know, its a shame :facepalm: the internet must be hard to navigate for those people. as the internet is bloated with more and more information, searches will need to be more specific. you wont get the answers ur lookin 4 until u ask the right questions



Andaloons said:


> 20% of the people do 80% of the work. Period.


ah, the good ole 80/20 rule:thumbup:


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> nobody wants to search for the info they need anymore.


Truth


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Meh


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## jrocco19 (May 20, 2007)

Is it me or is your dv valve on backwards after the delete ?? 


Azierus said:


> And after
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## foundubbedriver (Jan 10, 2006)

jrocco19 said:


> Is it me or is your dv valve on backwards after the delete ??


i have read in the past that some people run it in the reverse order for more noise. personally i've never tried it, but it appears that's what he has going on..


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

I have a dumb question, AWP.
Can I just plug the vacuum reservoir and just delete it?

Would an open atmospheric PCV cause a boost leak?
I have it open with my n/a 2.0

eace:


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## wagner17 (Oct 20, 2009)

It is louder but it became annonying for me so I flipped it back after a week


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

If you're talking about the plastic reservoir thing that sits on top of the valve cover then yes you can just delete it and plug the line. 

As for the PCV, yes you can run it to atmosphere and no it will not cause a boost leak. Not unless there's some sh*t seriously wrong with your engine any way.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

FTMFW said:


> If you're talking about the plastic reservoir thing that sits on top of the valve cover then yes you can just delete it and plug the line.
> 
> As for the PCV, yes you can run it to atmosphere and no it will not cause a boost leak. Not unless there's some sh*t seriously wrong with your engine any way.


Okay thanks a lot. 
So if running the pcv open is fine, how come people make there own tubing and keep it a closed system?
I can plug the line that goes to the turbo inlet pipe, take out the pcv regulator (hockey puck), the vent, and plug the lil tube that runs back into the intake manifold? 
I just want it 100% open, maybe with 1 line going to a catch can or the ground.


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

What I did is used a couple elbows and T's to make the lines from the oil cooling housing and the valve cover go to a single outlet straight out the bottom of the car with the hose routed just under the transmission. In other words, the valve cover and the oil filter housing both go into a single hose which is then routed out.

So this picture:









And instead of routing it to a catch can or TIP, I routed it to the ground.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

FTMFW said:


> What I did is used a couple elbows and T's to make the lines from the oil cooling housing and the valve cover go to a single outlet straight out the bottom of the car with the hose routed just under the transmission. In other words, the valve cover and the oil filter housing both go into a single hose which is then routed out.
> 
> And instead of routing it to a catch can or TIP, I routed it to the ground.


Okay thanks, I have been starring at the diagram on page 4 and don't have the car in front of me just yet. 
I didn't realize that it connects to the oil cooling housing on the bottom.
If I choose to, could I not connect the pcv and the oil cooler and discharge them separately?
Wouldn't make a difference would it.


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Yes you can do it that way and no it won't make a difference.


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## Vdubed13 (Jun 6, 2008)

does anyone know if i can get the resisters locally? like today? if so what kind do i need?

Thanks


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete

^^Start there and read your way back to this point. Then re-think that question.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

In the middle of things and hit some pita stuff!!

Anyway I dont have a Bentley that has the awp in it. Does any one know off hand what the two evap lines that run to that block (that are capped off in the diy) are for? I really want to retain the solenoid but I figure one of the two is for the ldp, true? If so which one? Capping that would simplify the hiding of the solenoid in the fender a bit.


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## foundubbedriver (Jan 10, 2006)

Vdubed13 said:


> does anyone know if i can get the resisters locally? like today? if so what kind do i need?
> 
> Thanks


i have read on here that people get them from radio shack.. the type needed should be noted in here somewhere, start reading.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

Using this thread I finally got my PCV delete finished. I went a little overboard with it though. After running the black hoses, things just didn't look right with everything else and the catch can looked really out of place over in the corner. Price got out of hand, but I love how it looks in the bay:


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Well I can see why the cost got a little stupid... Jesus F man!


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Shiny. :laugh:


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Batrugger said:


> Using this thread I finally got my PCV delete finished. I went a little overboard with it though. After running the black hoses things just didn't look right with everything else and the catch can looked really out of place. Price got out of hand, but I love how it looks in the bay:


Where did you get the 90 degree part for the brake booster line? I need one without the other opening on it.


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

vdubber#3555 said:


> Where did you get the 90 degree part for the brake booster line? I need one without the other opening on it.


I really couldn't tell you where that came off of. I just found it in my box of miscellaneous hoses. I'm pretty sure it is somewhere on a MKIV 1.8T though.


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Batrugger said:


> I really couldn't tell you where that came off of. I just found it in my box of miscellaneous hoses. I'm pretty sure it is somewhere on a MKIV 1.8T though.



Damn, ill have to go through all of my deleted stuff and try and find it. 

Do you have a part number by chance?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Batrugger said:


> Using this thread I finally got my PCV delete finished. I went a little overboard with it though. After running the black hoses, things just didn't look right with everything else and the catch can looked really out of place over in the corner. Price got out of hand, but I love how it looks in the bay:


great job :beer:


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

vdubber#3555 said:


> Damn, ill have to go through all of my deleted stuff and try and find it.
> 
> Do you have a part number by chance?


Good call on the part #. It is 06A103221AP, but ECS is asking $58 for it . This should help you find it and may be a good thing to add to the DIY as part that is pulled and then can be used on the intake manifold. It is #17 in this diagram:












Big_Tom said:


> great job :beer:


Thanks, I actually pulled the PCV lines and catch can off and took them to the polisher yesterday. He smoothed everything up and it is all looking even better now. No more rough welds and all the fittings are shiny .


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## shawn k (Jan 17, 2006)

Thank you for this thread.


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## savphili (Jun 4, 2004)

*Hard Start Due to Evap Removal?*

Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?

thank you,
:beer:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:


Total shot in the dark here but...

Could you take the EVAP line, add a fuel filter to it, then vent it to atmosphere?


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## savphili (Jun 4, 2004)

groggory said:


> Total shot in the dark here but...
> 
> Could you take the EVAP line, add a fuel filter to it, then vent it to atmosphere?


I honestly have no idea, does anyone else?


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## clarkson (May 1, 2009)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:


I to am having the same issues.... i had my suspicions on the check valve in the fuel pump to have gone bad but i guess this makes sense. 

BUmp for a solution


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours.
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:


What do you define as "hard start" issues? If you mean that it sounds like a Subaru for a few seconds then it's fine. It isn't causing any damage or excessive wear to anything.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

savphili said:


> Not sure if this has been covered yet or not, but after doing this delete I've been experiencing some hard start issues usually after my car sits more than 8 hours. I've asked a professional and he claims that it is because I've deleted the evap system which is now causing pressure/vaccum on the fuel pump. He is suggesting that I re-install the evap system. Is anyone else having these issues and if so is there anyway around it without re-installing the evap system?
> 
> thank you,
> :beer:



Define hard start. If it takes longer to crank, it may be a fueling issue. Check your fuel filter, pump, and check valve. Also check the vac line going to the FPR. 

If it starts and runs a little rough at first, it may be a pinhole leak in the vac lines that seals itself when the hose heats up. Double check all vac lines. 

As stated above, if it runs like a Suburu for the first few minutes, its fine. 

I have been running without EVAP for a couple of years now without any issues at all. I'm sure others on here have had the same experience. The only thing the EVAP did was route fuel vapors to the intake. 

The tank is still vented via the gas cap IIRC. Remove your fuel cap and see if it starts better, if it does then replace it, they are $7 on ECS.


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## savphili (Jun 4, 2004)

nstevic01 said:


> Define hard start. If it takes longer to crank, it may be a fueling issue. Check your fuel filter, pump, and check valve. Also check the vac line going to the FPR.
> 
> If it starts and runs a little rough at first, it may be a pinhole leak in the vac lines that seals itself when the hose heats up. Double check all vac lines.
> 
> ...


After sitting over roughly 8 hours, my car will usually start very rough and stall almost immediately. The car will always start the 2nd time without fail.

I'll go through and check all my vac lines today. As far as the fuel cap, do you mean where I'm filling the gas? Is that cap supposed to vent out under pressure?

Thank you for the response.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

savphili said:


> After sitting over roughly 8 hours, my car will usually start very rough and stall almost immediately. The car will always start the 2nd time without fail.
> 
> I'll go through and check all my vac lines today. As far as the fuel cap, do you mean where I'm filling the gas? Is that cap supposed to vent out under pressure?
> 
> Thank you for the response.


Yeah, gas filler cap.

What you just described sounds alot like the issue I was having with my Cherokee. Turns out the fuel line was not hold the pressure after sitting for a period of time causing that exact issue. There was an o-ring in the fuel pump that failed allowing the fuel to drain back into the tank. You very well may be experiencing a faulty fuel pump. 

Check your fuel pressure at the rail after it has been sitting for 8 hours. Start it up and let it run, shut it off and check the rail pressure again. If the first reading is substantially lower than the second you just found your issue.


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## savphili (Jun 4, 2004)

nstevic01 said:


> Yeah, gas filler cap.
> 
> What you just described sounds alot like the issue I was having with my Cherokee. Turns out the fuel line was not hold the pressure after sitting for a period of time causing that exact issue. There was an o-ring in the fuel pump that failed allowing the fuel to drain back into the tank. You very well may be experiencing a faulty fuel pump.
> 
> Check your fuel pressure at the rail after it has been sitting for 8 hours. Start it up and let it run, shut it off and check the rail pressure again. If the first reading is substantially lower than the second you just found your issue.


You know, this was my initial instinct, but I wasn't too sure. My buddy changed out my fuel injection lines. I think that might be it, i'll trouble shoot later on tonight or tomorrow if I have time and get back at ya.

Thanks again for the great DIY!


----------



## ajsnow6234 (Jul 20, 2010)

After my full delete and flash by Gonzo (w/ emissions fault delete) I had to have my emissions tested this week. Passed without a problem....


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## Batrugger (Jun 17, 2005)

savphili said:


> You know, this was my initial instinct, but I wasn't too sure. My buddy changed out my fuel injection lines. I think that might be it, i'll trouble shoot later on tonight or tomorrow if I have time and get back at ya.
> 
> Thanks again for the great DIY!


 Fuel lines will be the problem. I swapped mine to braided lines and my car was doing the same thing. Checked the new lines and they were seeping at the ends so I re-tightened them and no more problem.


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## 2slogetta (Jan 26, 2005)

I ripped all this crap from my 20AE today. The info here says to cap off the hard lines that run under the fuel lines... I have them fully removed. Seemed in the direction, that what they were connected to all came out. 
Is this wrong?


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

2slogetta said:


> I ripped all this crap from my 20AE today. The info here says to cap off the hard lines that run under the fuel lines... I have them fully removed. Seemed in the direction, that what they were connected to all came out.
> Is this wrong?


The two evap lines that come up in the engine bay next to the fuel lines run all the way from the fuel tank area. There should be no reason that you pulled them out... but aside from that, there shouldn't have been any easy way to pull them out since they run thru the frame rails partially and are clipped to the undercarriage in various spots along the way. They would be really hard to just easily pull out.


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## 2slogetta (Jan 26, 2005)

It shows this in directions.









I'm home, so the car isn't nearby. I capped the Vac lines that are housed in the same spot as the fuel lines. 
I'm talking under the fuel rail. Those hard lines. I have them totally removed. It seems to me the directions are saying to cap those...


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

2slogetta said:


> I'm talking under the fuel rail. Those hard lines. I have them totally removed. It seems to me the directions are saying to cap those...


Oh, those hard lines. You need them in there if you aren't deleting your coolant ball since of them carries coolant IIRC. You can leave the open one capped or uncapped... doesn't really matter.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Those caps were to prevent debris from entering the line in case the owner decided to re-install everything. The line becomes useless once the delete is performed.


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## 2slogetta (Jan 26, 2005)

See now. I have the entire top of engine apart as well as all acc off. 
Pulling,re-building with big turbo and shaved bay. 
Non of that crap is going back in. 
Thanks for the quick help


----------



## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Question fellas. I have a 04 TT 225 and just deleted the n249 valve and was wondering if I can delete the n112 valve as well. Im not deleting the SAI or Evap system yet. Can the line that goes to the combi valve be plugged or reconnected into a vac source. And would I want to run a check valve if I do delete it to prevent it from seeing boost pressure.Hope this hasnt been covered already. 
Thanks:beer::beer:


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## Markg813 (Jul 20, 2010)

killer write up!


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Question fellas. I have a 04 TT 225 and just deleted the n249 valve and was wondering if I can delete the n112 valve as well. Im not deleting the SAI or Evap system yet. Can the line that goes to the combi valve be plugged or reconnected into a vac source. And would I want to run a check valve if I do delete it to prevent it from seeing boost pressure.Hope this hasnt been covered already.
> Thanks:beer::beer:


No - the N112 is what controls the injection of the air from the SAI pump into the cylinder head. 

If you delete the N112, there's no point in having the pump or asso iated hoses.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Ok thanks. So do I need to just reconnect the line that went from the n249 to the n112 to a vac source. I currently have it teed into the dv line. No check valve or anything. Is that correct?


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Ok thanks. So do I need to just reconnect the line that went from the n249 to the n112 to a vac source. I currently have it teed into the dv line. No check valve or anything. Is that correct?


Follow the vacuum system diagrams. They'll show you where check valves need to be. Unfortunately I'm on my phone and can't think off the top of my head what needs to be connected to what.


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## Thann (Oct 19, 2010)

Subscribed for future reference.


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## jockgti (Jan 25, 2012)

i was attempting the pcv delete not to long ago but got stuck when i couldn't get an answer to a question about a white valve attached to the y suction jet pump,do i just remove everything attached to the oil block breather ? my engine code is aum its a 1.8t 20v 

i asked in this thread if you check the last few posts i attached a picture http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/269734.aspx?PageIndex=1 

cheers for any help


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## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

*combi question?*

Very nice write up! 

I read the entire thread but couldnt find the answers to my questions. From the DIY and from looking at my car, it seems the combi valve and hard lines bolt to the block with those 3 bolts. Does this mean that if I remove my combi valve the hard lines will have to come out too or can i just remove the combi and leave the hardlines? I still want to keep the stock system just replace/clean my combi because I see alot of oil and carbon deposit on and around the block where the combi and hardlines are mounted. I did remove the SAP input to the combi and put my finger in it to check for carbon residue but found none. Could the block be clogged where it meets the combi? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Dub.Nation said:


> Very nice write up!
> 
> I read the entire thread but couldnt find the answers to my questions. From the DIY and from looking at my car, it seems the combi valve and hard lines bolt to the block with those 3 bolts. Does this mean that if I remove my combi valve the hard lines will have to come out too or can i just remove the combi and leave the hardlines? I still want to keep the stock system just replace/clean my combi because I see alot of oil and carbon deposit on and around the block where the combi and hardlines are mounted. I did remove the SAP input to the combi and put my finger in it to check for carbon residue but found none. Could the block be clogged where it meets the combi? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.



Doubt that its clogged. Exhaust does not go through there. The oil you are seeing around it is probably coming from a leaky tensioner seal or half moon seal in the head right above it. The combi valve is also attached to the hard lines, so it all has to come out at the same time.


----------



## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

MNShortBus said:


> Doubt that its clogged. Exhaust does not go through there. The oil you are seeing around it is probably coming from a leaky tensioner seal or half moon seal in the head right above it. The combi valve is also attached to the hard lines, so it all has to come out at the same time.


Hmm thanks for the reply but you're sure exhaust does not go through it? It is called an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve after all...


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

The SAI pump pumps air into the valve when it is open on start up. Air does not go the other way through the valve. If it did it would be similar to an exhaust leak.


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## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

MNShortBus said:


> The SAI pump pumps air into the valve when it is open on start up. Air does not go the other way through the valve. If it did it would be similar to an exhaust leak.


The valve has 3 openings i believe (2 in, 1 out). I see the SAI pumping air down the valve. But on the other side of the valve there is a thin input. Where is this line from?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Dub.Nation said:


> The valve has 3 openings i believe (2 in, 1 out). I see the SAI pumping air down the valve. But on the other side of the valve there is a thin input. Where is this line from?


Look at the vac diagrams in my FAQ...

but anyways...

Combi Valve port 1 -> Head, port 2 -> SAI pump, port 3 -> N112

N112 port 1 -> Combi Valve port 3, port 2 -> Check Valve tail

Check valve tail -> N112 port 2, head -> Intake Manifold

...

but it's easier to look at one of the diagrams in my FAQ


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## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

got it thanks. Too many lines and places that can go wrong.


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## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

I see that half moon your talking about now. Is there anything i can do to stop oil vapors leaking from that site? Looks like the thread owners seal was leaking too. AND it looks like a B to replace.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Dub.Nation said:


> I see that half moon your talking about now. Is there anything i can do to stop oil vapors leaking from that site? Looks like the thread owners seal was leaking too. AND it looks like a B to replace.


I think you were referring to the demo car I used :laugh:

I replaced my half moon seal when I did my valve cover gasket, and yes it is a pain in the ass. As far as keeping it from leaking, the only sure fire way is to replace.


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## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

nstevic01 said:


> I think you were referring to the demo car I used :laugh:
> 
> I replaced my half moon seal when I did my valve cover gasket, and yes it is a pain in the ass. As far as keeping it from leaking, the only sure fire way is to replace.


Yea it looks like a lengthy job. Does leaking from that seal affect any overall performance?


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

It shouldn't. It's basically an additional hole for your PCV system. It's messy though which is why it'd be better to replace it sooner than later.


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## Dub.Nation (Jul 28, 2009)

yea i agree. so many things to check on these damn cars


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Okay peoples I didn't know where else to post this without making a new thread.

I'm about to buy this 2005 awp gti and was wondering if the hard line going to/coming from the fuel pressure regulater is stock??

All the other cars I have seen before just have a black rubber hose.


pic









yes its dirty, I will make it nice and clean.


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Looks about right. I seem to remember the same hard line being there on my car. But its been over 2 years since I did my deletes.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Hard line to the actual regulator itself... dunno. Never seen that. Seems weird. Hard line into the rail underneath the regulator area... that's normal.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

looks diff than mine, but if it works use it :thumbup:


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Where does the fuel tank ventilate to if you guys are capping both evap hard lines n the engine bay?


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Where does the fuel tank ventilate to if you guys are capping both evap hard lines n the engine bay?


It doesn't ventilate... until you open the gas cap.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> It doesn't ventilate... until you open the gas cap.


Actually, it ventilates at the leak detection pump purge port. It purges excessive flow when the tank is overpressureized. 
Pretty dumb that people remove the evap system, its there for a reason lol
sai,yea its not totally necessary, and not even needed if you run catless. 
PCV... well its up to you if you want to smell oil vapors all day long




On a side note, I can not find where you sauder in the 330w 10v resistor? is it inline with the power wire or do you jump the wires?:facepalm:
want to do this since I can totally tell my car vents boost at part throttle:facepalm:


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> Actually, it ventilates at the leak detection pump purge port. It purges excessive flow when the tank is overpressureized.
> Pretty dumb that people remove the evap system, its there for a reason lol
> sai,yea its not totally necessary, and not even needed if you run catless.
> PCV... well its up to you if you want to smell oil vapors all day long
> ...


:thumbup:


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Slimjimmn said:


> Actually, it ventilates at the leak detection pump purge port. It purges excessive flow when the tank is overpressureized.
> Pretty dumb that people remove the evap system, its there for a reason lol
> sai,yea its not totally necessary, and not even needed if you run catless.
> PCV... well its up to you if you want to smell oil vapors all day long
> ...



Resistors "bridge" the two wires


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## vdoobery (Oct 7, 2010)

im getting horrible gas mileage and throwing

```
17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump 
P1476 - 35-00 - Malfunction / Insufficient Vacuum
```
is the resistor going to the blue balls in the wheel well causing this? i've searched around and dont find anything....
also boost gauge idles around 18ish rather than the regular 20-22 it use to


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

vdoobery said:


> im getting horrible gas mileage and throwing
> 
> ```
> 17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
> ...


blue balls :laugh: sounds like your car has them

You need to make sure your resistors are correct. These codes are telling me they are not. There are plenty of guides telling you how to properly resistor your components including this one. Please read them and follow the steps carefully.

Or go here, support a fellow vortexer and take the guess work out of it.
http://www.postreleased.com/


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

x2 on the postreleased resistors. Makes it simple and clean, if it makes you feel any better I bought them and I'm the one who wrote this DIY.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Slimjimmn said:


> Actually, it ventilates at the leak detection pump purge port. It purges excessive flow when the tank is overpressureized.
> Pretty dumb that people remove the evap system, its there for a reason lol
> sai,yea its not totally necessary, and not even needed if you run catless.
> PCV... well its up to you if you want to smell oil vapors all day long
> ...


Oh reary? Thought the flow path was: gas tank -> LDP -> blue balls.... where the EVAP purge valve opened the blue balls to the general vacuum system... allowing those vapors to be burned off. With that mental image as my model, I would assume that if the lines from the gas tank are capped off... since you have no more EVAP purge valve to purge the non-existent blue balls... that the LDP itself would be pumping to nowhere.. since the lines are capped. 

Is there another line where the LDP can dump to atmosphere?



travis_gli said:


> Or go here, support a fellow vortexer and take the guess work out of it.
> http://www.postreleased.com/





nstevic01 said:


> x2 on the postreleased resistors. Makes it simple and clean, if it makes you feel any better I bought them and I'm the one who wrote this DIY.


Thanks guys. 

Just to note: the resistors aren't going to clear any and every emissions-related code for you. The primary reason to add the resistors, whether its the ones I make or ones you buy and solder in yourself, is to make sure fuel adaptation stays working. Without them, your fuel trims can end up being zero'd out, which might mean you end up going way lean or way richer than you normally would... which could very well be why your gas mileage is poopy. I mean, if your gas mileage has changed after doing this... it probably IS the reason you're running rich / dumping extra fuel.

If you log block 032 in Vag-Com while driving, what are your fuel trims coming up as?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

evap flow goes:
gas tank --> charcoal canister --> evap lines --> evap purge valve --> engine vacuum


All the leak detection pump does is check for a leak in the system. When you delete the evap purge valve, gas tank pressure has nowhere to go accept out the charcoal canister by splitting it, or the leak detection pump overpressure port. 

so pretty much, when you delete your evap valve and plug the line, your going to either:
a-blow up your charcoal canister
b-blow up your leak detection pump

all due to overpressureization, unless you drive around with your gas cap loose all the time.


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## vdoobery (Oct 7, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> If you log block 032 in Vag-Com while driving, what are your fuel trims coming up as?


started at -1.5 and -2.3
ended at -1.3 -2.3


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

+ or - 5 is normal range

if it was like -13 or like +25 that would be bad


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## Roketdriver (Jan 24, 2009)

Subscribed. Will be using this for help on my AUG simplification. :thumbup:


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## Humb1e (Jan 19, 2012)

My charcoal canister blew up, It was the sweetest thing ever!


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

So, I assumed an AEB head would have no combi valve. But, there it was looking at me smuggly










Double check the head code ...










Hmm. So I undo the 3 5mm hex bolts, and lo and behold:










NO HOLE!!!

So, at one point, the mounting holes were drilled to mate up the combi valve, but the actual duct for the valve itself wasn't drilled.

lol, wtf :laugh:


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

oh oh ...










this line was completely destroyed for me. Hopefully it's a 'hard' line and I can epoxy/ tape it


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

wtf mate!
Why the F would vw go to all the hassle of putting in a full secondary air system, but not drill out the head lol..
:facepalm:


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

Slimjimmn said:


> wtf mate!
> Why the F would vw go to all the hassle of putting in a full secondary air system, but not drill out the head lol..
> :facepalm:


I doubt it was VW ... it's a 2000, motor code should be AWD. I'm thinking one of the PO's switched heads, and wanted it to look legit for emissions (as it was a Cali car)


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

kinda what I was thinking


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## rains (May 30, 2008)

Well, I got this all done today!

I must say, I am really impressed. She pulls harder than she has in quite a long time, and my CEL is no longer coming back on for the 'Massive EVAP systems leak'

Well worth the time to do, results are quite worth it.

I also love that I now know _exactly_ which vacuum lines run where, and that my brake booster and diverter valve run on vacuum straight from the manifold.

Many :beer:s to the OP, thanks a million for posting this :thumbup:


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

deleted only my n249 this weekend and I am happy with the results. No more boost surge and it has direct power.


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## _Brenon_ (Oct 27, 2011)

After you delete the SAI combi valve. Where do I run the line that went to the top of the DV? Thats the only thing I can't figure out.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

To an unused vac port under the intake manifold.

Sent from a tin can on a string using Morse Code


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## _Brenon_ (Oct 27, 2011)

Thanks man. Im just blind and skipped over that part of the DIY.

Did this tonight and it is now put on hold with my car stuck on jackstands. I broke the top nipple on the DV trying to get the one time clamp off.

Now I have a legit reason to get a 007 DV lol

Sent from my phone, duhh!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

_Brenon_ said:


> Thanks man. Im just blind and skipped over that part of the DIY.
> 
> Did this tonight and it is now put on hold with my car stuck on jackstands. I broke the top nipple on the DV trying to get the one time clamp off.
> 
> ...


 :laugh::thumbup: take a look at the new 008 as well


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

like my 004 myself. 

I did not delete the sai on my car though and ran a "T" at the vacuum nipple.


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

found answers to all questions in here after reading and re-reading the whole thread :beer:


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## Crazy Al 91 (Aug 13, 2008)

Question for ya'll: Have any of you have problems with vehicle sale after doing this? I'll be selling my car later this year (so long as Uncle Sam accepts my application  ) but I really would like to do this so my car will run better for the remainder of my time with her. BUT I don't want this to bite me on the butt when I go to sell it either.

Thanks :beer:


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

resale on a car that is in violation of federal law which can not LEGALLY be driven on the road in ANY of the 50 states???
naa...no problem!

even if you CAN register it, and you dont have smog check, it is still illegal to register and drive it.

i would say if the buyer KNOWS you did this, and signs a document saying he knows you did it, and you are selling it for race use only/of road...you are 100% ok.

anything short of that.....you COULD get screwed down the road.


----------



## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

Crazy Al 91 said:


> Question for ya'll: Have any of you have problems with vehicle sale after doing this? I'll be selling my car later this year (so long as Uncle Sam accepts my application  ) but I really would like to do this so my car will run better for the remainder of my time with her. BUT I don't want this to bite me on the butt when I go to sell it either.
> 
> Thanks :beer:


If you have normal emissions (it gets scanned or tail pipe sniffed) it is very likely to encounter problems. If you live in one of those hippie towns where the only check is a visual scan of the CEL light being off... you could be fine.


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

what happens if i take the hose from the oil breather place and connect it straight to where the hockey puck was located? (with no catch can).
would really like to know this


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

rains said:


> So, I assumed an AEB head would have no combi valve. But, there it was looking at me smuggly
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hahahahahahaha. :facepalm: That woulda been the highlight of my week if I found that **** on my car. Atleast you didn't need to make/buy a blockoff!


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## kesh808 (Feb 28, 2010)

Hey my car is doing this weird thing now after doing the complete delete. It feels like the gas is cutting out. If I leave my foot on the gas to speed up, or even just going a consistent speed, the car will lose all power, almost like I took it out of gear, and then the power will jerk back in. The power goes away for just about a second or two and then returns but it keeps doing this. It's like the engine is kind of sputtering. Does anybody have any idea what could be going on?


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

so i just did the 1st section of the delete 2day (pcv n brake) n am quite pleased with the results so far. on the way home, i noticed a stronger brake pedal, smoother idle which translates into noticably less cabin vibrations (the pcv valve under the manifold was stuck). 

now i just need to find the time to do the rest of it; cant wait!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I deleted the EVAP, PCV and added a catch can vented back into the TIP, and SAI. No problems at all since the delete. I resistered everything and disabled it in Maestro. Now I just gotta fix my oil leak from the turbo.


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## turbo2205 (May 1, 2005)

i kinda wish i had meastro but nope. instead i have to send my ecu out along with $150 for the sw delete for when i do my sai :thumbdown:


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I am real glad that I went with it over anything else, made disabling the stuff real easy. The actual deletes took me longer than expected though.


----------



## Twiggy420 (May 19, 2012)

Hey guys so I just did this complete delete on my car (2000 AWD) and I am 100% positive I followed all of the directions properly and all hoses are where they should be. Well when I go to start my car she just shoots up to 2-3 k rpm and then right back Down and dies. If I give a little gas the rpms go up and down like crazy from 300-1200 rpm up and down very rapidly. Im not sure what is going on any advice would be appreciated, also I haven't resistored anything but that shouldn't cause this would it?


----------



## Suadjule (Apr 20, 2012)

The hard line that runs underneath the fuel rail can I just remove that?


----------



## Yak Meat (Sep 28, 2011)

need this!


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## Beat the Heat (Apr 4, 2005)

I removed the hard line and replaced the antifreeze portion of it with a single line, just to clear up the clutter.


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## zactastic (Dec 23, 2010)

Is this safe to do for the engine? im just curious why do all this just to create more room in the engine bay. will this put any harm on the engine components or is it safe to do without any reprocussions down the road. does it help with performance? 

i read the first two pages, and see that it creates more room in the engine bay. but is that the only benefit. what are the pros and cons of this DIY. thanks.


----------



## woteg (Apr 7, 2009)

zactastic said:


> Is this safe to do for the engine? im just curious why do all this just to create more room in the engine bay. will this put any harm on the engine components or is it safe to do without any reprocussions down the road. does it help with performance?
> 
> i read the first two pages, and see that it creates more room in the engine bay. but is that the only benefit. what are the pros and cons of this DIY. thanks.


 creates more room 
cheaper than replacing hoses if they are broken 
less likely of something failing on you 
informs you of your engine's vacuum system 
no repercussions unless you have emissions to pass in your state


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

fyi, there are no blue balls in my 225 audi tt. just black balls in the engine bay next to the alternator and power steering resivour


----------



## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

I did this delete, but I want to reinstall my EVAP system to get rid of the code.

I know two lines go to the ports near the coolant ball, another hooks up to the line coming from the blueballs, and another goes the the port on the throttle body. But there is still one more line. where does it hook up to?


----------



## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

matty675 said:


> I did this delete, but I want to reinstall my EVAP system to get rid of the code.
> 
> I know two lines go to the ports near the coolant ball, another hooks up to the line coming from the blueballs, and another goes the the port on the throttle body. But there is still one more line. where does it hook up to?


That other line connected to the hard line that runs under the intake manifold which in turn ran to the small nipple at the base of the TIP. So just reconnect the EVAP side to the hard line and then run a piece of vac line to the nipple on the base of the TIP.


----------



## pandabreads (Oct 18, 2011)

So is anyone experiencing any issues after removing the EVAP system? Should I pull my gas cap occasionally to vent the system? I want to remove the EVAP, but I don't want my gas tank to exploded either!


----------



## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

No problems here. 

You may experience a rough start every once and a while when its cold outside. I haven't run into this though and I drive throughout the winter.


----------



## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

very nice write-up, respect for all that work! :thumbup: i've seen a few of those but this is by far the most comprehensive.

i attempted this on my AUDI TT 1.8T QUATTRO 225hp and what can i say... i started something that is a bit out of my league i'm afraid to say now. several things are out, hoses loose, the confusion is big and i'm lost.  i think i got lost because basically none of the how-to's are specifically about my car and i failed "adapting". can anybody help to still make this work?


----------



## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Well whats not working? Go back and cap off any lines from the EVAP, or any open vacuum lines.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

i actually wasn't brave enough to start it yet. i wanted to make sure the right holes are plugged and that i haven't "deleted" something i shouldn't have... would photos help? or a video chat? whatever is needed to figure this out.


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

Follow the DIY- remove every vaccum line and the component that it is connected to EXCEPT the brake booster, FPR, and DV.

Run three new lines to those three items.

Throw in some resistors and you'll be golden. After doing this, my car runs like a dream. :thumbup:


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

thanks matty!

where do i run these three new lines to? sorry for my lack of experience, i am obviously still in my learning phase... i don't want to put a new catch-tank in the car, if that has anything to do with this mission.

which vacuum line is the one from the brake booster? the brake booster itself is the big round this on the driver's side, correct? i can't see a line coming from it.

here is what i did so far:
- take out the SAI pump and it's hoses
- removing the combi valve
- installing the block-off plate
- taking out the N75
- taking off the top metal braket with:
...vacuum reservoir
...N249
...037906283B EGR valve (is there an "N"-name for this one?)

do i have to get rid of the PCV valve "puck"? and that blue "3-bubble"-looking tank (i can't even find it)? 

i'll get right on it again tomorrow (today...) and take a few photos, which should make explaining it easier.

[edit] i have THIS resistor for the SAI pump-plug, three of THOSE and one of THOSE - am i missing anything?


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

You should be following the DIY at the beginning of this thread; although, I do understand that there may be some variations in your case.

The brake booster is attatched to the large port on the side of the intake manifold. Remove the OEM line from the large side port of the intake manifold. Keep the check valve and toss everything else in the trash. You'll need a hose to run straight from the large side port to the brake booster. You will run the check valve in-line here.

There will be several vacuum ports under the manifold. You will only use two. One for the FPR and one for your diverter valve. The easiest way to access these is to remove the manifold.

You should not be removing the N75.

Follow the DIY, let me know which parts you are having trouble with and I will be glad to help.

The simplest method to ventilate the crankcase is to run a a hose with a filter from the crankcase breather (coming from the oil cooler), as well as run a hose with a filter from the valve cover breather (the large port on the side of the valve cover). Plug the hole in the TIP for the "hockey puck". Run the hoses wherever you like, keeping in mind that they may drip combustion/blowby fluid at times (hint hint-run them near the ground)

You will need four resistors. They are all the same. The one you found for the SAI from IE will do just fine. The plug-in types are great, but 3x the price. I just soldered my resistors into the harness.


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## lyngo (Sep 28, 2010)

.?


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

thanks matty! it is indeed a little different on the TT. here is the current situation:

- N75 is back in
- open vacuum lines plugged

the promised photos (click for full size):

 

green circle = the plugs + one more underneath the manifold (3 in total)
red lines = N75 stuff - is that done correctly?
blue lines = PCV valve (puck) lines

the brake booster, FPR, and diverter valve are untouched/put back into the system as per your post. and i left the PCV alone also including all the stuff underneath the manifold (except for one plugged vacuum line that came from the top braket), which mostly connects to the "hockey puck" if i'm not wrong. can i leave it that way? i really don't want to take the manifold off and i don't understand what you mean by ventilating the crankcase etc. (i guess you need to do that when taking the manifold off?) - i don't need to do that if i leave the rest as it is, right?

don't mind the weird hosework by the turbo inlet hose... i got the wrong one shipped so i had to make it work somehow with most of the "arms" in the wrong place (it's for the 180HP TT...). the car is in pieces, i need it back together now and the old hose is ripped on the turbo end! :banghead: i hope the turbo didn't get damaged sucking in dirt. :thumbdown:

i used a square plug resistor for the N249 and one for the N112 (that is the EGR valve from underneath the braket that goes in front of the manifold, right? i was wondering if that has an "N"-name in my previous post). i have one more square one left and one with a round plug, which i think was for the N80 purge valve - can i just get rid of the N80 and replace it with a simple hose? one square plug resistor left, is that for the combi valve solenoid? where is it? how does it look?



the SAI pump sucked air from the air filter housing. what's the best way to plug that hole?


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

the N80 is removed now. installed the resistor for the pump (found a way without soldering). found a clean way to plug the opening in the airfilter-box. and found out what the remaining square plug-resistor was ordered for: the N75. but that's back in the system now. i must have had a reason to buy the resistor for the N75, but what was it? do people delete it out of the system or not?

i would really appreciate your approval of this work so i can start up the car with a "clean" conscience. what question remain for me? is the hosework correct? can i leave the hockey-puck the other stuff going to it (under the manifold) as it is? was is okay to take the N80 out?

another potential problem: since it's the wrong turbo intake hose the DV sits on it's side now and is resting on the engine as you can see on the photo. will that cause any trouble being on an angle and with the heat from the engine?

any help is much appreciated!


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

The N75 is not technically connected to a source of vacuum. A hose from the intercooler pipe should be going into it, and a hose going to the wastegate should be coming out of it, and it should be mounted in the TIP.

There are some vacuum lines under the manifold that I highly recommend you delete from the system. Removing the manifold may sound intimidating, but it really isnt.

A benefit of this modification is having dedicated, unmolested sources of vacuum for the DV,FPR, and brake booster. Having said that, you should remove the OEM vacuum lines for each of those components and replace them with new hoses that run directly to the manifold. Remember- the brake booster requires a check valve that you should have saved from the OEM line. If you can't find it, use the one from the EVAP line that you have pictured.

The N80 can be easily removed and resistored. All of the connections are "quick connect style" there should be three or four connections plus one vacuum connection. Two lines going to the fuel tank, a line coming from the charcoal canister, a source of vacuum (I see you already have that capped off), there may also be a line going to the TIP (if you have this line, it must be plugged). If you are having trouble, take a picture of the EVAP lines and I can better tell you which ones to disconnect. The N80 is part of the EVAP system and should be removed completely.

If you don't get any "open circuit" fault codes, then you have properly resistored all of the harnesses.

The combi valve does not have a wiring harness. The N80 (EVAP purge solenoid) has a harness, the N249 in front of the manifold has two harnesses, and the SAI has a harness. All of those harnesses should be resistored.

As for the PCV system-this can only be modified with the manifold removed. I do recommend this. After removing the manifold, you will see a hose running from where the oil filter is connected to the block (the oil cooler). Gently remove it from the plastic elbow. Remove all associated vacuum lines. Remove the line from the side of the valve cover. Run two new hoses from both locations. Use as much hose as you need in order to place the end of these hoses near the ground. Use a hose clamp to connect small air filters to both hoses. Remove the "hockey puck" from the TIP and plug the hole. The alternative would be to use a catch can.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

thanks for the late-night reply. we must have been writing at the same time (see my post just before yours). the N75 is connected correctly following your description and the N80 is gone. all the resistors are where they should be (SAI pump, N249, N112, N80) and hidden away as good as possible.

i managed to get the seller of my TIP to send me a proper one, but until then i have to live with the wrong one. that said i would like to postpone the manifold mod with getting rid of the rest of the vac system for when i replace the TIP. i saved your posts in a text file so i can look it up later. right now i need the car to get back on the road again asap. instead of taking me a few hours this took me a few DAYS. i shouldn't have attempted it without (much) more research but what's done is done and i've lost lots of time that i have to catch up with now.

so from your post i get that i am good to go?

thanks for your help so far. i would have been stuck for while without this forum!


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

Sounds like you're good to go, but I certainly wouldn't be able to guarantee smooth sailing without seeing it in person.

As long as the crankcase has someway to ventilate, you can't really cause any damage to the engine. Since you havn't touched the PCV system it does have ventilation.

If you have any abnormalities upon startup, scan for codes and let me know. 

I would; however, recommend against the DV being in direct contact with the engine.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

sounds great. now i understand the crankcase ventilation issue. i'll see if i can find a way to put something in between the DV and the engine block. i'm sure i'll get the incorrect flow error sooner or later, but there should not be any open circuit errors with all the resistors in place.

how much does it cost do get an error mapped out of the ECU by the way? is that even possible or only in conjunction with a tune up software package for hundreds of dollars?


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## That04gliguy (Jul 9, 2012)

Does anybody know if unitronic software will keep the check engine light off ? Sorry kinda new to this and didnt want to try unless i can keep the light off, daily driver with pa inspection. Or do they make cel delete/blockoff like they do for honda?


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

That04gliguy said:


> Does anybody know if unitronic software will keep the check engine light off ? Sorry kinda new to this and didnt want to try unless i can keep the light off, daily driver with pa inspection. Or do they make cel delete/blockoff like they do for honda?


I believe Unitronic can do emissions delete, yes. So can Maestro with the click of a button. It will code out the system and will force the associated readiness monitors to ready. This is a question to ask their sales to make sure. You will still need to resistor the connectors so your fuel trims stay normal.


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## matty675 (Oct 2, 2011)

APR will also delete emissions codes from your software. $150 and you must send them your ECU. It will fail readiness though.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

matty675 said:


> APR will also delete emissions codes from your software. $150 and you must send them your ECU. It will fail readiness though.


APR's emissions deletes are completely worthless IMO. They refuse to force readiness obviously for legal reasons which means even though you don't have a check engine light you will still fail emissions tests. For that cost it definitely isn't worth it.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Username REFLECTED on here does it for $50 IIRC. Not sure if he still does it, send him a PM.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

that's a great tip, i'll PM him for sure! :thumbup: 

after doing the final touch up yesterday, i test drove the car for a bit today. i'm waiting for the CEL to come on for now, but so far the engine is running very smooth. especially the idle feels much better than before. maybe that also results from replacing the intercooler hose that goes to the intake manifold, which was really dirty/muddy. 

i temporarily suspended the DV etc. with a cable-tie until the new (and proper) turbo intake silicone hose gets here. i also had to install a coned air filter because of the wrong sized hose that is in the car now.  i absolutely don't like the way it sounds now... just like a teenagers tuned up whip with that crazy turbo sound going on. 

after all the engine bay looks much cleaner now. i might not even put the covers back in.  

thanks again for your help! i'll keep you posted about any upcoming errors that might/will show up.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

here is what VAG COM says: 

17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation 
P1557 - 35-00 - - 
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve 
P1297 - 35-00 - - 
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected 
P0411 - 35-00 - - 
17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Malfunction / Insufficient Vacuum 
P1476 - 35-00 - - 
Readiness: 0010 1101 

the first two errors deserve a topic on their own (had them for a while) and error #3 was obviously expected. but what about the last one? that's new since the delete. is that the SAI pump resistor not working properly?


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## jegas6228 (May 25, 2012)

wow, thats a pretty impressive write up, but answer this question for me being that im new to the VW scene... what are the benefits of this?


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

from what i've gathered: 
- cleaner engine bay 
- less things that can fail 
- smoother running / idle 
- vacuum cleaner noise gone :laugh:


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## VOLKSGLI (Mar 31, 2012)

My car ran like shat before the Delete but now its awesome best thing i have ever done. While i was at it i installed a 2.5 inch Techtonics downpipe and cat back Car is a rocket now


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## punisher89 (Oct 11, 2002)

Thanks for the DIY, just PM the OP for one of these kits.


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## punisher89 (Oct 11, 2002)

Just finished mine, few scraped knuckles and one trip the dealer (broke the oil breather tube on top of the oil cooler) but it's all together and looks good. Thanks for the write-up and the kit.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

I used this write up for mine and it is a great basis for anyone whether you use his kit or your own.











Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Looks nice and clean as it should. :thumbup: 


Glad so many could benefit from my writeup. :beer::beer:


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## Pete O. Arguelles (Jul 5, 2000)

I have always disliked all those vacuum lines I think it's time to do this. Anyone from Texas do it and pass emissions. 
I will be ordering this kit.


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

Pete O. Arguelles said:


> I have always disliked all those vacuum lines I think it's time to do this. Anyone from Texas do it and pass emissions.
> I will be ordering this kit.


 I had to get my ECU modified to pass before I had Maestro. (Reflected did it for ~$50) Now I can just switch EVAP and SAI on/off.


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## travis_gli (Jan 31, 2008)

Andaloons said:


> I had to get my ECU modified to pass before I had Maestro. (Reflected did it for ~$50) Now I can just switch EVAP and SAI on/off.


 If such components are failing but you are lazy like me could you just turn off everything anyway?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Pete O. Arguelles said:


> I have always disliked all those vacuum lines I think it's time to do this. Anyone from Texas do it and pass emissions.
> I will be ordering this kit.


 I have a kit with the block plate ready to ship, PM me when your ready.


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## Andaloons (Apr 16, 2004)

travis_gli said:


> If such components are failing but you are lazy like me could you just turn off everything anyway?


 Sounds feasible.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

i am still getting this error

*17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Malfunction / Insufficient Vacuum - P1476*

i re-wired a NEW 10w 300ohm resistor in place of the pump.
what could still be causing this error to show up? any ideas?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

testdriver said:


> i am still getting this error
> 
> *17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Malfunction / Insufficient Vacuum - P1476*
> 
> ...


Mine never went away either, all I did was re-attach the evap system, (2 minutes) and it passed smog. No matter how many resistors I replaced, it never went away. Hopefully you didn't remove you accumulator bottle and retained all of the evap plumbing and solenoid.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

testdriver said:


> i am still getting this error
> 
> *17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Malfunction / Insufficient Vacuum - P1476*
> 
> ...


You have to get that written out in software

The resistors are so you keep your fuel trims (block 032)


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## BoostedGLS0218 (Dec 10, 2011)

groggory said:


> You have to get that written out in software
> 
> The resistors are so you keep your fuel trims (block 032)


There are two separate threads on this procedure. I've read through both of them and I can't even count how many times I've seen people ask this question and get this answer. :banghead: 
Why are people doing this crap to their car if they aren't reading all the information thoroughly.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

in all the topics i found they tell you this error has to be mapped out:

*16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected - P0411*

i must have overlooked anybody saying that error P1476 has to be removed also on the software side. i thought the resistor will avoid that error but i guess it doesn't. i kept everything i removed but i sure don't want to put it back inside. i'll get the car warmed up right before the next emissions test. that way it should pass (i was told). and i am going to get both of those errors mapped out of the ECU before that.

just realized that i have a 300ohm resistor and most people mention a 330ohm resistors. would that make any difference? i purchased mine from integrated so i was expecting it to be the proper one... is it?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The only way around that one is to have it programmed out in your flash. 

If you clear and go straight to emissions without doing a cold start you will pass as long as all the other readiness monitors are all passed.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

i'll have both errors mapped out if that's the way to go. what do you mean by "if you clear and go straight to emissions"? don't i have to get the car there with the engine hot to pass? do i have to do anything in vagcom before going to get emissions passed?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

I mean if you dont have the cels coded out or readiness forced in the flash then you need to clear the code and go right to test without cold starting. If you have the solution done in software there is nothing to worry about.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

quick question:

do you guys know the 2nd pcv port.. the one on the block... technically: "block breather".
its right by the dipstick.

anyways, the hard hose broke.

Ideally, i want to run that to a catch can, along with the top pcv port (on the valve cover).

how do i connnect a hose to such a LARGE hole opening?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

You get a block breather adapter that adapts it to -10AN , then you go from there


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

groggory said:


> You get a block breather adapter that adapts it to -10AN , then you go from there


sorry for the noobness... as you can tell, i'm not a mk4 nor a 1.8T guy...

anyways, where can i find such thing?

all i have found is this:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Breather/ES2515512/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Breather/ES7934/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Breather/ES523283/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--1.8T/Search/Breather/ES2575555/

and i can tell is that they are all the same, arent they?

if so, i'll just buy the cheapest and run a hose from there... right?

edit: i just found what you were talking about.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Ie billet adapter

Few pieces off jegs


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I mean if you dont have the cels coded out or readiness forced in the flash then you need to clear the code and go right to test without cold starting. If you have the solution done in software there is nothing to worry about.


i see , thank you for explaining. i wonder what the guy at the test center would think when i show up with my laptop. :laugh:
so if i get readiness and the errors "fixed" in the software, i don't even have to warm the car up before i get it e-tested?


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

testdriver said:


> i see , thank you for explaining. i wonder what the guy at the test center would think when i show up with my laptop. :laugh:
> so if i get readiness and the errors "fixed" in the software, i don't even have to warm the car up before i get it e-tested?


You need to have the car warmed up to make sure the other monitors are all set. You might still have one unset readiness monitor for SAI, but it's a pass for emissions everywhere that I am aware of. Older cars can have up to 2 unset.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

so, thanks for all the help! 
we got the car running perfect.

i have a question for the "experts"...

can the 1.8T vent the PCV directly to atmosphere? or will there be issues by doing so?

i was advised to run a sealed/vacuumed catchan, but i really dont want to...

how are you guys doing your PCV set ups?


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## dkell426 (Sep 15, 2007)

what size vacuum hose would be needed if i was just going to bypass the N249 and reroute the other lines? i heard 3mm but that seems to small.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

dkell426 said:


> what size vacuum hose would be needed if i was just going to bypass the N249 and reroute the other lines? i heard 3mm but that seems to small.


3mm fits on the dv

5mm fits on the n249 line


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## BoostedGLS0218 (Dec 10, 2011)

thygreyt said:


> so, thanks for all the help!
> we got the car running perfect.
> 
> i have a question for the "experts"...
> ...


If your talking about just running a hose off the tee at the block breather to the ground; then that wouldn't cause any problems that I'm aware of. I know plenty of guys (in other cars other than a 1.8t) that do this with no harm. 

Was actually planning on doing this myself as I don't need to pass a visual emissions inspection and fux spending money on a catch can that'll probably still get oil in my intake tract.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at. 
Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak. 
So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

BoostedGLS0218 said:


> If your talking about just running a hose off the tee at the block breather to the ground; then that wouldn't cause any problems that I'm aware of. I know plenty of guys (in other cars other than a 1.8t) that do this with no harm.
> 
> Was actually planning on doing this myself as I don't need to pass a visual emissions inspection and fux spending money on a catch can that'll probably still get oil in my intake tract.


this 1.8t is a friend's mk4.

on my 2.5L mkv and on other 2.0t mkvs and mk6s, i know plenty of people running a hose to the ground.
i have had the set up for ~30 k miles with no issues.

so i guess i'll do it like that on the 1.8t and see what happens.


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

VWstung said:


> A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at.
> Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak.
> So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.


A vta can and a hose to the ground are effectively the same. Works great other then the smell.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

need_a_VR6 said:


> I mean if you dont have the cels coded out or readiness forced in the flash then you need to clear the code and go right to test without cold starting. If you have the solution done in software there is nothing to worry about.


In RI you can't clear the codes and go right to inspection. Your IM readiness monitors will read as incomplete and the state computer will fail you. EVAP is usually last to clear so the only way around it here is to clear the CEL's and drive the car until you have only one incomplete and hopefully the EVAP is the incomplete. 



Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

VWstung said:


> A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at.
> Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak.
> So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.


WTF? Explain how you have vacuum in a PCV system without the assistance of a manifold vacuum source?


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

You don't, the air has no extra assistance leaving nor any check valves keeping it in. 
Iv done it on plenty of cars.


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## toby lawrence (Dec 12, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> In RI you can't clear the codes and go right to inspection. Your IM readiness monitors will read as incomplete and the state computer will fail you. EVAP is usually last to clear so the only way around it here is to clear the CEL's and drive the car until you have only one incomplete and hopefully the EVAP is the incomplete.


Do you have anything coded out at all? I'm getting my car re-inspected in RI soon with forced readiness on nearly all the emissions monitors... curious to see how it turns out.


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## BSD (Jul 8, 2008)

Last time I checked vacuum is a necessity for a proper catch can setup, since the crankcase needs vacuum.


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## LenSmith'sMotors (Jun 17, 2012)

:beer:x6 goes to nstevic01 I received the resistors Monday morning, thank you for the quick and excellent service. To all on here, I recommend nstevic01 and his website: http://www.diydeleteparts.com/ as a very reliable source for parts needed to complete this DIY!!


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## davojuri (Aug 28, 2009)

*OD of TB nipple and intake nipple for brake hose*

Hi

please some technical help.
I am away from home-holliday, but need to purchase parts to get them when I am back to copy your mod.
I need OD of that nipple on intake-driver side that connect to the -brake mod hose?
OD of that caped nipple on TB.
I was thinking that brake hose should be arround 13mm, and that from TB 6-8mm,
also that FPR one is 3 or 4mm??
Please help with that.
BTW great post!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

BSD said:


> Last time I checked vacuum is a necessity for a proper catch can setup, since the crankcase needs vacuum.


Unless your breather hose connects after the throttle body, it doesn't see vacuum.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

need_a_VR6 said:


> Unless your breather hose connects after the throttle body, it doesn't see vacuum.


The stock pcv system creates a vacuum

Aftermarket systems just do their best not to resist flow


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## need_a_VR6 (May 19, 1999)

The vacuum is very, very low on an intake mounted pcv. The only vacuum is from the speed of the air moving past the tube inlet. 

The newer vr6s use a manifold monted pcv that generates considerable vacuum by comparison.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

The gases don't really have a problem leaving the crankcase with vent to atmosphere set ups. 
It also has a to do with the fact car manufactures having to recurrculate fumes. It's the same thing as EGR and Evap.
Something like a VTA would never pass a new car inspection.


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

VWstung said:


> The gases don't really have a problem leaving the crankcase with vent to atmosphere set ups. .


Right on the money. Air inside the engine is stagnant until your internals start moving, so whether you have a Pcv system or not, the amount of turbulence caused by your moving parts, is enough to cause outward pressure which in turn releases the vapor cause by air/oil mixture.

It doesn't get any easier than this peeps. I don't care how much you read on the Internet, your crank and valve train breath irregardless of Pcv (which is designed solely to avoid releasing this toxic mix into the environment) or open element, the difference is you will have much cleaner manifold and piston heads with open element. Who wants that **** in their car!

:beer: for everyone 


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Yerrpppp^

Don't want that discharged oil and air back into my intake.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

So what is the proper size hose to buy for the crankcase and oil cooler??
He lists his kit comes with 3/4 hose but has pictured 5/8th.
?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

VWstung said:


> So what is the proper size hose to buy for the crankcase and oil cooler??
> He lists his kit comes with 3/4 hose but has pictured 5/8th.
> ?


I used 5/8"


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

The new kits come with 3/4", when I did the DIY, I used 5/8". It is really personal preference and what works with what you are using.


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## Sour Diesal GTI (Sep 5, 2009)

hey i just got my deletes done, but my SAI plug isnt like any of the resistors i got... 

its not a oval type or a square type plug...... from what ive read just tape the plug up & im good to go.... 

is this tru ???? 

i have 2 oval connectors left & used both my square ones.... 

edit : running Uni 2 & AWP !!!!!


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

@Sour Diesal GTI 
are you talking about nstevic01's kit or the resistors you can order from intengineering.com? if it's about the last one and it's the same plug as on my TT then yes, it almost looks like the round plug you can buy from intengineering.com would fit, but it doesn't. and no, just taping it up won't do the job, you have to install a resistor (10W and 300ohm) that will be there in place of the pump. they sell it for $5, a well sorted eletric surplus store will most likely have it for around a buck (so i bought five :laugh.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

My integrated engineering resistor almost didn't fit on my SAI connector, had to fit it and force it on. 

Also had to use 3/4th heater hose for my crankcase, 5/8th wasn't even close eace:


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

I also sell the raw resistors without the kit. They run $8 shipped anywhere in the US for a set of 4.


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## Sour Diesal GTI (Sep 5, 2009)

testdriver said:


> @Sour Diesal GTI
> are you talking about nstevic01's kit or the resistors you can order from intengineering.com? if it's about the last one and it's the same plug as on my TT then yes, it almost looks like the round plug you can buy from intengineering.com would fit, but it doesn't. and no, just taping it up won't do the job, you have to install a resistor (10W and 300ohm) that will be there in place of the pump. they sell it for $5, a well sorted eletric surplus store will most likely have it for around a buck (so i bought five :laugh.


 yea the resistors that IE sells now... i got them from the maker tho..... forgot to say im switching from Uni 2 over to eurodyne & everybody local is saying with the switch i dont need resistors on anything...... got my first CEL today... scanned it with my scan tool. no new codes just one thats always been there & the flow code for SAI .......


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## thygreyt (Jun 7, 2009)

where are you guys buying the resistors from?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

I buy mine on amazon


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Sour Diesal GTI (Sep 5, 2009)

VWstung said:


> My integrated engineering resistor almost didn't fit on my SAI connector, had to fit it and force it on.
> 
> Also had to use 3/4th heater hose for my crankcase, 5/8th wasn't even close eace:


yea was it oval or square resistor ???? i used 2 squares & the SAI looks oval, but doesnt look like it will fit.... maybe tomorrow illl try forcing it on...... 



thygreyt said:


> where are you guys buying the resistors from?


http://www.urotuning.com/SAI-EVAP-Delete-Resistor-Kit-3-pcs-Mk4-1-8T-p/sai_resistor_mk4_kit.htm
or
http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug.html
http://www.intengineering.com/integrated-engineering-sai-evap-delete-resistor-oval-plug.html


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## Dub'tastic (Dec 25, 2007)

so I did the complete delete and I have the AWD motor, now do i need something to plug into the Pump plug??
Will Radio shack have this resistor also?? I also have the URO KIT


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Dub'tastic said:


> so I did the complete delete and I have the AWD motor, now do i need something to plug into the Pump plug??
> Will Radio shack have this resistor also?? I also have the URO KIT


A 10w 330ohm resistor is the most commonly used. Or you can use one of the plug and play resistors using the link posted above.


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## Dub'tastic (Dec 25, 2007)

nstevic01 said:


> A 10w 330ohm resistor is the most commonly used. Or you can use one of the plug and play resistors using the link posted above.


ok I just need to do that one resistor I'm heading down as soon as I'm done hooking the last of the batt stuff up
... Great DIY also, wife wasnt happy that I was pulling it apart till 430am, but **** it It's my car...umpkin:


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## vwbmx (Jan 25, 2002)

very nice write up I just might be doing this since Im running into vacuum and boost problems and all these lines are driving me insane.


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

Hey I have a question about the PCV portion of the delete. I am wondering why the pcv valve that's connected to the inlet pipe is removed? Shouldn't it be there to let the right amount of blow by gas though? I'm not very good this cars and am trying to understand the delete before I do them. I'm planing on the Sai and brake booster as well. 

Also does the valve cover have higher pressure compared to the inlet pipe so the oil and gas go though the catch can and to the intake instead of into the vavle cover? and doesn't the hockey puck help in this. 

Hopefully someone can clarify this for me. Thanks.


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## MrSavvy (Mar 21, 2011)

Question for you guys n gals who have done this. Where did you buy the hoses and lines to run? What type did you buy? All I can find at local auto stores is vac lines and in 3/4ths all they have is break line hose.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

MrSavvy said:


> Question for you guys n gals who have done this. Where did you buy the hoses and lines to run? What type did you buy? All I can find at local auto stores is vac lines and in 3/4ths all they have is break line hose.


The parts that are included in my kit are sourced from various auto parts suppliers. The 3/4", 1/2" lines are heater hose and the smaller line is just standard vac line. If you don't feel like running around and getting everything, I should have a couple of kits left without the block plates.


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## MrSavvy (Mar 21, 2011)

nstevic01 said:


> The parts that are included in my kit are sourced from various auto parts suppliers. The 3/4", 1/2" lines are heater hose and the smaller line is just standard vac line. If you don't feel like running around and getting everything, I should have a couple of kits left without the block plates.


Ah ok cool thanks for the info. I didn't realize you had any kits left. I'm a huge DIY guy but I might source a kit from you. I'll let you know if I decide to.
Either way, this thread is a huge help. Thanks! :beer:


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

So I will be doing this delete in the near future and am wondering where everyone is putting their catch cans. I want somewheres that is out of sight but can still be easily drained. I don't like the location in this DIY but I have seen others put there's next to the battery on the rad support and also near the fuse box. Where did everyone put there's?

Also what size hose is required to fit the smaller Sai hose? Mine has a crack in it and I don't have the kit yet and just want to get that workin like it should for now.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

walker.2003 said:


> So I will be doing this delete in the near future and am wondering where everyone is putting their catch cans. I want somewheres that is out of sight but can still be easily drained. I don't like the location in this DIY but I have seen others put there's next to the battery on the rad support and also near the fuse box. Where did everyone put there's?
> 
> Also what size hose is required to fit the smaller Sai hose? Mine has a crack in it and I don't have the kit yet and just want to get that workin like it should for now.


I use the 42dd mk4 bracket and stealth can... Next to the battery

You mean the hose to the n112?


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

groggory said:


> I use the 42dd mk4 bracket and stealth can... Next to the battery
> 
> You mean the hose to the n112?


I have a 42dd stealth can on the way as well. 

And about the hose it's the one that comes from the Sai and into the combi valve. The corrugated hose. I tried a 3/4" hose but it didn't side into the male part of the hose. Could be the wrong material or wasn't make perfectly but it was very close to the right size.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Proprietary, far as i can tell


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

42 dd stealth mounted in my bay.


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

Hey, I won't be doing the Sai and evap delete just yet but I want to do the pcv and brake booster mod. I'm just wondering for the pcv mod will I need to make a t in this kit where the hoses hook up to the 90 degree piece? Right now the kit is just a straight hose to the 90 degree breather. 

Help would be appreciated! Also where does that stock t line off the breather go to? Not the one to the valve cover and catch can but the hose from the 90 degree splits off to a t before that if I know what I mean.

EDIT:









Okay so the green is the thing im wondering about. what happens to that and where does it go to? the blue is the kit i have and it doesnt have the t there.


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## MrSavvy (Mar 21, 2011)

Alright... I am soo close to finishing this delete. All I have left is mounting the catch can and soldering the resistors.
But I need advice...

*
Where did everyone* (with an AWP engine) *attach their boost gauge vac line to?*
I was running mine off a t-fitting on the line coming from the little vac hose on the valve cover.
(see in this pic, the little port now capped off)


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

MrSavvy said:


> Alright... I am soo close to finishing this delete. All I have left is mounting the catch can and soldering the resistors.
> But I need advice...
> 
> *
> ...


Vacuum line on the FPR


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## MrSavvy (Mar 21, 2011)

HavokRuels said:


> Vacuum line on the FPR
> 
> 
> Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


Word. Just did some searching and found the same answer. Thanks bud. :beer:


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

How would I go about just doing the n249 delete? Can't really figure it out with this DIY


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

walker.2003 said:


> How would I go about just doing the n249 delete? Can't really figure it out with this DIY


 I followed this DIY and ran like this for about a year before removing the rest of the junk in the bay. 

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/265883.aspx


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

I read that one. The thing I don't understand is that it doesn't really explain what happens with the 2 hard lines up by the resivor on the valve cover and what happens with the 3 hoses you cut on the metal bracket by the manifold. Will this DIY work for the Awp? And are those hard lines connected to the combi valve? Thanks 

Also I heard that its better to run a line from the diverter valve to the manifold instead of the fpr.


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## walker.2003 (May 29, 2011)

I think I've figured it mostly out but on this DIY it shows 4 hoses near the intake manifold for the n249 delete. What's the hose on the far left? The braided ones for fpr, the other 2 are for resivor and dv. Just not sure about the one left of the braided. 

Wait I think I figured it out. So that would be the line from the manifold to the one way valve then to the n112 solenoid and then after the valve that goes to the fpr and then I can just run a line from my dv to the intake manifold?


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## MrSavvy (Mar 21, 2011)

I just finished my PCV/N/EVAP delete last weekend. *What is the code I should have after I finish the delete?* I'm throwing a P0300 "multiple/random cylinder misfires" but idk if that's the one I should have or not. If it isn't, I need to figure out why it's come up now.


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## VWstung (Dec 19, 2010)

Misfires are unrelated.
If you deleted evap you will see Evap improper flow


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## MrSavvy (Mar 21, 2011)

VWstung said:


> Misfires are unrelated.
> If you deleted evap you will see Evap improper flow


I appreciate it.


If anybody has a few seconds, glance over at my thread. Having some weird issues after doing the deletes in this DIY. Thanks. :beer:


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

I did this delete on my 03 1.8t Jetta. There is an intermittent white smoke from the exhaust. It'll smoke then I'll rev it up and it'll disappear for awhile then come back after 10min or so. It's not much smoke but still some.. I have a turbo on there with about 65k on it that is good (I had to replace the turbo last week). someone suggested that the PCV system/catch can isn't working properly. I got a $10 catch can from ebay, is there something that I'm missing?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Laswell2001JETTA said:


> I got a $10 catch can from ebay, is there something that I'm missing?


Yea, those aren't even worth $10. 

Did you put a new both werner turbo in or used?


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## steu2011 (Jan 13, 2011)

Installed my kit today. Very satisfied. Smoothed my idle out a lot! At first I was wondering if it was even running at stoplights. :laugh:
Thank you nstevic01!


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

it was a used borg turbo.


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## thefrese (Mar 8, 2012)

Laswell2001JETTA said:


> it was a used borg turbo.


I would take off the TIP/charge pipe and look for oil in there. Those ten dollar catch cans don't catch anything though. Good catch cans are expensive because they have complex routing and screens so that oil will condensate in them.


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

the turbo has oil all over the housing. dripping even. this bad?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

Laswell2001JETTA said:


> the turbo has oil all over the housing. dripping even. this bad?


Yessir


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Laswell2001JETTA said:


> the turbo has oil all over the housing. dripping even. this bad?


Sounds like your used turbo was well used. Unfortunately


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

any reccomended rebuild kits?


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Laswell2001JETTA said:


> any reccomended rebuild kits?


Not the thread to discuss this. It's not emissions delete related.


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

true true


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## OMMFGitsAustin (May 31, 2012)

I'm going to be looking to delete my sai right after Christmas, do you still deal in these kits?


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## Dub'tastic (Dec 25, 2007)

been running this now for about 2 months i have a check for sai stuck open


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Dub'tastic said:


> been running this now for about 2 months i have a check for sai stuck open


You are going to throw codes when you remove the SAI regardless of how you do it. The only sure way to not get a CEL is to code it out with new software.


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## Laswell2001JETTA (Oct 17, 2012)

I noticed that the 3/4" hose that links the block and the head breather tubes together has the hose going to the catchcan inline with the crankcase breather turbe. I have mine inline with the cylinder head tube and the crankcase breather taps into it from there.... does this matter how you arrange it?


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

MNShortBus said:


> You are going to throw codes when you remove the SAI regardless of how you do it. The only sure way to not get a CEL is to code it out with new software.


I never threw any codes except evap. I had this setup for a long time.


Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## Dub'tastic (Dec 25, 2007)

MNShortBus said:


> You are going to throw codes when you remove the SAI regardless of how you do it. The only sure way to not get a CEL is to code it out with new software.


ok kool... i'll just get my unitronic program updated then, thanks


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

Printed out the OP's ENTIRE guide and it's pretty self explanitory, its a 40 page, visual, step by step! :thumbup: If you don't understand it, AT ALL, I advize not to do it!!! :thumbdown: I even used a Godspeed Catch Can (aka $20 on ebay) and everything is coming out VERY WELL! Sure, I have to buy a new printer ink cartridge due to printing ALL those pics, but its ALL GOOOOD! lol

I'm NOT to sure about the OP's dimensions on the hoses though, a couple didn't fit and I had to make another trip to the hardware store... thank God I could return them for different sizes and fittings! Other than that, it's DEAD ON. 

Entire delete kit, including the catch can AND resistors cost me 60 bucks! Not too shabby! I had some money left over... so I used it to buy a NEW Forge TIP and my Sachs Clutch Kit from 4seasons! HAIL YEA! :beer: for the OP!


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## jrdnlc (Oct 6, 2012)

SickAzzGTI said:


> Printed out the OP's ENTIRE guide and it's pretty self explanitory, its a 40 page, visual, step by step! :thumbup: If you don't understand it, AT ALL, I advize not to do it!!! :thumbdown: I even used a Godspeed Catch Can (aka $20 on ebay) and everything is coming out VERY WELL! Sure, I have to buy a new printer ink cartridge due to printing ALL those pics, but its ALL GOOOOD! lol
> 
> I'm NOT to sure about the OP's dimensions on the hoses though, a couple didn't fit and I had to make another trip to the hardware store... thank God I could return them for different sizes and fittings! Other than that, it's DEAD ON.
> 
> Entire delete kit, including the catch can AND resistors cost me 60 bucks! Not too shabby! I had some money left over... so I used it to buy a NEW Forge TIP and my Sachs Clutch Kit from 4seasons! HAIL YEA! :beer: for the OP!


Do you mind sending me that 40 page guide?


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

jrdnlc said:


> Do you mind sending me that 40 page guide?


Go to the OP...

... go to your browser's tool bar.

Hit print page.

That's all I did, until the entire step by step was printed in my hands. Then I stapled it together like a book. And THAT it is! :thumbup:


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## supermega1 (Oct 27, 2006)

Printed mine out at work :laugh:

Also for the large diameter tubing you can use -10 AN for the large size stuff and -8AN for the Brake booster.

I went all AN with my connections cost considerable more but looks waay better.


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

I used 3/4" heater hose. 
It didn't work. The vapors leak through lol. 
I need to find some oil proof 3/4" hose.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Slimjimmn said:


> I used 3/4" heater hose.
> It didn't work. The vapors leak through lol.
> I need to find some oil proof 3/4" hose.


Weatherhead hose at napa works well

Fyi, i use goodyear heater hose and it doesnt leak through


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## Slimjimmn (Apr 8, 2006)

Well it's not physically leaking, the hoses sweat and smells kinda dank in my garage.


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## testdriver (Jul 23, 2012)

happy new year everybody! :thumbup:

i'm still thrilled having such a clean engine bay. changing the ingnition coils and spark plugs is so easy now. but since i've done the delete i had to discover that my engine stalls when i start it the first 1-2 times after i filled up the gas tank at the pump (+ i hear hissing when i unscrew the gas cap before refueling). i think it is a problem with the fuel tank ventilation system and i was wondering if it was caused by me removing the N80 purge valve?! any suggestions?

and to give some feedback on user's "reflected" services: he successfully got rid of the check engine lights for me and was nice to deal with. prices are also fair! shipping took a bit too long but that's mostly because i'm in canada. i'd recommend him anytime if you are looking to get your ECU remapped and/or tuned!

ps. i have a few 10W resistors left over - PM me if interested (preferably canadians for shipping reasons)


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## NOpassattimmy (Oct 13, 2011)

hey i may be retarded... nut i did this and resistor/clamped everything, didnt remove blue balls cause i didnt feel like jackng up my car, but i disconnected them and left them there... my car ran perfect for about 150 miles, but it was idleing lower and occasionally would jump up as if i had tapped the gas, now car wont start. It turns over, then stalls out really quickly, any help much appreciated!!:thumbup:


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

I used the $20 catch can from Ebay... seems to be working fine for me!

Took me 6 hours yesterday, BUT I GOT IT DONE!!! lol :banghead:

Here's some before and after pics - only thing I need now is MORE, BLACK HOSE to go from the catch can to the TIP and T Fitting.... it's TOO MUCH red!

Before/After/Deleted Collage










BEFORE the delete...










AFTER the delete...











*THANKS OP!!!!!!*


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Guys, 

Anyone who has purchased a kit from me, or has done an install, I'd like to compile a list of engine codes this write up has successfully worked on and post it to the 1st page. I get alot of questions from folks about which 1.8t's this will work with, and it would probably be beneficial to have it listed. 

Thanks!!


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## HavokRuels (Jan 9, 2011)

1.8t AWP engine.

Zero codes with evap system still intact.

With evap delete and resistor installed I still throw a code.




Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad


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## davojuri (Aug 28, 2009)

*AUQ code*

It worked on my AUQ 1.8T
and all that with no resistors and no CEL guys-done by www.rsrmotorsport.com, guy was factory developer for 1.8T


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## limbo118 (Jan 29, 2013)

is there no way you can do the pcv delete without a catch can? like maybe just small filter of the valve breather etc? there must be a way because show cars have barely any things in there bays! :s


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## davojuri (Aug 28, 2009)

*AUQ code*

It worked on my AUQ 1.8T
and all that with no resistors and no CEL guys-done by www.rsrmotorsport.com, guy was factory developer for 1.8T


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## pfcmooney (Dec 15, 2012)

I did the delete a few weeks ago and am getting a P0171 code. I'm thinking it may be the way I have a few vacuum lines routed. Does anyone have a diagram of the way the delete kit is supposed to be run?

I think the line running out of the PCV or something is wrong on mine. I have the PCV, then it elbows towards the valve cover, which is where it T's and head to the catch can, then to the hockey puck....is this correct?


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## pfcmooney (Dec 15, 2012)

I did this delete kit a few weeks ago and am getting a P0171 code now (Fuel Trim Too Lean). I'm thinking that I have some vacuum lines ran incorrectly.

The only one that really stands out that might be wrong is the hose running from the PCV. I have the PCV then runs into an elbow, then it runs up to the valve cover where it T's off to the valve cover and the catch can, then after the catch can it runs to the TIP where the hockey puck is. Is this correct?


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## pfcmooney (Dec 15, 2012)

Does anyone have a diagram on how the overall delete should run? I think I've got a boost leak somewhere and thinking it may be due to not having check valves.


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

I see a lot of ppl asking about catch cans...

This is a good alternative for less than 50 bucks, that I use TO THIS DAY w/ zero problems and catches PLENTY of "sludge/water" from blow by...

You can use whatever type of can u want I suppose, but this was just appealing to me due to the easy drain access and not having to weld any aluminum. Just putting it out there for those on a budge like me! If you have the 2-300 bucks to drop on a "good" can, then go for it! :thumbup: 

But I figure this may help SOMEONE out, here's the link to my DIY...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...or-under-40-and-no-quot-welding-quot-required!

*Check the LATEST post by me for a MUCH BETTER mounting location!* :beer:


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## miltonbug (Feb 28, 2009)

:beer::beer:


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

Figured I'd post up a more RECENT photo of the delete.... I've since cleaned up the engine bay even MORE by hiding wires and such! EVERYTHING is so, SO much easier to get to once all of that CRAP is out of the way!!!

This would be the absolute FIRST MOD I would ever do to a 1.8t! As it just makes the motor more of a MOTOR... lol. All of those PCV hoses and evap hoses and this and that in the way, just make these engine bays a PITA to work on. 

And this thread couldn't be ANY simpler, just due to all the pictures! BTW: STILL haven't thrown a single code since doing this and my fuel trims are all in check due to the resistors...

2002 JETTA GLS - AWP ENGINE CODE - WORKS PERFECTLY!!!


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

pfcmooney said:


> Does anyone have a diagram on how the overall delete should run? I think I've got a boost leak somewhere and thinking it may be due to not having check valves.


groggory posted an excellent diagram here


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## mk4life2011 (Apr 10, 2011)

This is a great write up awesome job, but I see alot of ppl asking about software that can do deletes, eurodyne and unitronic has it I know, also I have a tune United motorsport for my k04 and I actually had all deletes with that tune i was able to unplug and take out everything with out using resistors and no codes heres the link to their site with prices.

http://www.unitedmotorsport.net/per...k4-00-01-golf-jetta-narrow-band-me7-20v-1-8t/

mine was a stage 2 tune


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

mk4life2011 said:


> This is a great write up awesome job, but I see alot of ppl asking about software that can do deletes, eurodyne and unitronic has it I know, also I have a tune United motorsport for my k04 and I actually had all deletes with that tune i was able to unplug and take out everything with out using resistors and no codes heres the link to their site with prices.
> 
> http://www.unitedmotorsport.net/per...k4-00-01-golf-jetta-narrow-band-me7-20v-1-8t/
> 
> mine was a stage 2 tune


x2 on the United Motorsports tunes. Jeff can pretty much tune anything you need.


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## plgrgli04 (Feb 5, 2009)

*to try or not to try*

i thinking of doing this not sure if im able or would screw something up. But i dont want to spend the money on a secondary air pump and im already missing the hose that runs to the intake box


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## SickAzzGTI (Jul 10, 2012)

plgrgli04 said:


> i thinking of doing this not sure if im able or would screw something up. But i dont want to spend the money on a secondary air pump and im already missing the hose that runs to the intake box


Do like Nike and "Just Do It"!!! Its not hard AT ALL if u follow the steps (by printing them out - like a BOOK!) and have all the necessary parts/tools! Trust me! Now get out there and rip that ish off!!!! Lemme know if u have Q's, I'll try to provide A's!


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Doing some research on this subject/topic and i thought i would share some color coded diagrams of what my plan is. T-1 month until i can start cleaning up the engine bay :thumbup:

Before:









After:


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

have a 04 audi doing this to mine wondering what things places , should be blocked off on my inlet pipe, ... also without running a catch can wil it harm anything can i just run a hose down with a breather filter on the end thanks


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## boostedgtinyc (Aug 15, 2010)

*HELP!*

i recently did this on my 02 1.8t awp gti i deleted the evap,sai,pcv,and n249 after the kit my car just cranks it wont turn over i have the dv,fpr,boost guage hooked on the intake manifold along with the line for the brake booster beside that every thing is capped off (hard line,evap, and the ones on TIP) and resistors are plugged it doesnt throw anycode beside for sai and evap (cant remember the code ) any help would be highly appreciated


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## mk4life2011 (Apr 10, 2011)

boostedgtinyc said:


> i recently did this on my 02 1.8t awp gti i deleted the evap,sai,pcv,and n249 after the kit my car just cranks it wont turn over i have the dv,fpr,boost guage hooked on the intake manifold along with the line for the brake booster beside that every thing is capped off (hard line,evap, and the ones on TIP) and resistors are plugged it doesnt throw anycode beside for sai and evap (cant remember the code ) any help would be highly appreciated


 What did u do with plastic evap lines coming from the tank?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## boostedgtinyc (Aug 15, 2010)

those are capped off also resistors are on the evap, n12 and the n249 connectors if that matter?


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

B6handofgod said:


> have a 04 audi doing this to mine wondering what things places , should be blocked off on my inlet pipe, ... also without running a catch can wil it harm anything can i just run a hose down with a breather filter on the end thanks


 helppppppppppppppppp


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## mk4life2011 (Apr 10, 2011)

B6handofgod said:


> helppppppppppppppppp


 You could do that but because of blow by you will have to replace that filter every week so ud be better off putting a catch can in so it could catch all that blow by oil

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## theirlaw (Nov 27, 2005)

If I wanted to *just* remove my SAI, what block off plate will create the least amount of work? I figured that a plate blocking off the SAI port on the combi valve would be ideal, but is that even available? If not, I'm going to have to cap the end of the N112 line? I have no problem leaving the N112 and N249 plugged in as I'm not planning to remove them yet.


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

theirlaw said:


> If I wanted to *just* remove my SAI, what block off plate will create the least amount of work? I figured that a plate blocking off the SAI port on the combi valve would be ideal, but is that even available? If not, I'm going to have to cap the end of the N112 line? I have no problem leaving the N112 and N249 plugged in as I'm not planning to remove them yet.


 Just remove the combi valve then you don't have to worry about capping off lines. Then all you need is a block off plate. http://bit.ly/12Wv206


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

ok what on the inlet hose is suppose to be capped off any diagrms ?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

B6handofgod said:


> ok what on the inlet hose is suppose to be capped off any diagrms ?


 I have some vac diagrams in the FAQ. 

If you have trouble finding them let me know and I'll tweak the organization so it's easier to find.


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

cant seem to find the proper DIY for this on your threads.. also i have a b6 a4 USP if that matters i did all the delete with the DIY thread on vortex deleted sai , combi valve used the block plate, just wanted to know there are a couple of hoses coming from the intake that i dont know if i blocck them off or what to do


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## theirlaw (Nov 27, 2005)

cwyamz said:


> Just remove the combi valve then you don't have to worry about capping off lines. Then all you need is a block off plate. http://bit.ly/12Wv206


 I've certainly tried searching. If I remove the combi valve, isn't there a vac line from the N112 that needs to be capped? I have an AWP.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

theirlaw said:


> I've certainly tried searching. If I remove the combi valve, isn't there a vac line from the N112 that needs to be capped? I have an AWP.


 Yes.

Vac diagrams are in faq


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

Does anyone know if this little extension is redundant? 

I have an oval resistor that id rather use then the square one and wire extension. Will it cause any issues?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

RodgertheRabit II said:


> Does anyone know if this little extension is redundant?
> 
> I have an oval resistor that id rather use then the square one and wire extension. Will it cause any issues?


 LOL certainly seems redundant to me, which one is that? Its a good thing i have enough of each type of resistor to do this in a little while


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

it runs across the front side of the block and attaches to the PS pump


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## theirlaw (Nov 27, 2005)

My plan is to remove just the SAI pump and combi valve, replace with block off plate and leave N112 installed and connected. I'm not going to remove any of the vacuum lines and my plan is to plug the end of the vacuum line right where it came off of the combi valve. Is a zip-tied vacuum cap right over the vacuum line itself going to be sufficient for this?


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## cjb88 (Aug 21, 2010)

For those of you that have already done this, can you help me with where each of the harnesses are that need to be resistored? I know it's the SAI pump, the N249 for the combi valve, something for the evap, and not sure what else. I am planning on using the plug in resistors from IE, so I also need to know how many rectangle and how many oval. Thanks for any help you guys can give!


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

cjb88 said:


> For those of you that have already done this, can you help me with where each of the harnesses are that need to be resistored? I know it's the SAI pump, the N249 for the combi valve, something for the evap, and not sure what else. I am planning on using the plug in resistors from IE, so I also need to know how many rectangle and how many oval. Thanks for any help you guys can give!


1 ovall for the N80 evap purge valve located right behind the washer fluid bottle
2 square for the N249/N112 for the solenoids located right in front of/below the intake manifold

The SAI pump itself does not get a resistor, only the N112


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Oh forgot to post my before/after picture here since i got this done last weekend :thumbup:


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

oh you copy cat!!! (almost) haha


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

We really have to get better at taking pictures


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

^Troof.:laugh:


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## jrdnlc (Oct 6, 2012)

I need to get this done but been lazy lately lol.


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## mk4love95 (Nov 20, 2012)

What does the hose that's connected to the top of the diverter valve connect too?


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## RodgertheRabit II (Sep 13, 2012)

I have it routed to the bottom of the intake manifold.


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## theGo (Aug 3, 2009)

correct me if I'm wrong but the only cel will be the improper flow? what exactly causes this code


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

theGo said:


> correct me if I'm wrong but the only cel will be the improper flow? what exactly causes this code


 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tually-measuring-the-quot-incorrect-flow-quot


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## likethesoup2 (Apr 18, 2011)

Hi guys, I'm doing this delete in stages: yesterday I did the brake boost mod and ran the lines to the catch can. Along the way I broke one of the little hard lines (think it runs to the little reservoir up top of the valve cover, but not 100% sure; plugged it with a hose end, and the car doesn't seem to be minding it at all). I have the AWW engine. 

Anyway - a couple of questions: 

1. Can I safely run a new line from my diverter valve to the bottom of the intake manifold without deleting the other stuff first? 

2. Since I only have 1 vacuum port on the bottom of my intake manifold, can I run a T and connect the FPR and the DV into the same port? Or is there some other place I can connect the FPR? 

3. Can I safely remove that little vacuum reservoir up top of the valve cover before I complete the rest? 

It'll be a week or two before I tackle the rest. 

Thanks a lot for a great write-up and any help you guys can give.


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

likethesoup2 said:


> Hi guys, I'm doing this delete in stages: yesterday I did the brake boost mod and ran the lines to the catch can. Along the way I broke one of the little hard lines (think it runs to the little reservoir up top of the valve cover, but not 100% sure; plugged it with a hose end, and the car doesn't seem to be minding it at all). I have the AWW engine.
> 
> Anyway - a couple of questions:


 1. Can I safely run a new line from my diverter valve to the bottom of the intake manifold without deleting the other stuff first? 

What other stuff? Like the vacuum lines going to the N249? I'd delete those since you are already running a new line. And you can and leave the N249 plugged in, sans vacuum lines, if you don't have a resistor. 

2. Since I only have 1 vacuum port on the bottom of my intake manifold, can I run a T and connect the FPR and the DV into the same port? Or is there some other place I can connect the FPR? 

Sure. Or you could look at a vacuum manifold from 42DD. http://42draftdesigns.com/categories/products/vacmanifolds.html 
Most guys run the FPR directly off the IM and the boost gauge off that line. 

3. Can I safely remove that little vacuum reservoir up top of the valve cover before I complete the rest? 

When you do the N249 delete, yes. If you are going to run a line form the IM to the DV, go ahead. 

It'll be a week or two before I tackle the rest. 

Thanks a lot for a great write-up and any help you guys can give.


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## likethesoup2 (Apr 18, 2011)

cwyamz said:


> 1. Can I safely run a new line from my diverter valve to the bottom of the intake manifold without deleting the other stuff first?
> 
> What other stuff? Like the vacuum lines going to the N249? I'd delete those since you are already running a new line. And you can and leave the N249 plugged in, sans vacuum lines, if you don't have a resistor.
> 
> ...


 Thanks man. 

Messed with it for a bit this morning; found out there are actually three ports on the bottom of the IM. Seems to run A LOT better since I ran the new line from the DV. 

Thanks again.


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

Can anyone locate me some caps for my intake manifold to block it off ?!!!


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

B6handofgod said:


> Can anyone locate me some caps for my intake manifold to block it off ?!!!


 Pull the metal press in barb out, drill out the existing hole if necessary, tap and plug with a hex set screw and thread sealer :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Joey GTI (Aug 8, 2011)

After Doing the delete everything runs fine besides my dv makes a weird fast flutter almost like a bov I ran it just like the DIY to the intake mani port but it sounds alot different then before I began anyone have any ideas?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Joey GTI said:


> After Doing the delete everything runs fine besides my dv makes a weird fast flutter almost like a bov I ran it just like the DIY to the intake mani port but it sounds alot different then before I began anyone have any ideas?


 It may be broken. You should remove your DV and inspect it for proper operation.


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## Joey GTI (Aug 8, 2011)

groggory said:


> It may be broken. You should remove your DV and inspect it for proper operation.


 i doubt its broken it was working perfectly fine before the delete and took it apart today and all looks good. i dont see whats different about moving the vac line.


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

Joey GTI said:


> i doubt its broken it was working perfectly fine before the delete and took it apart today and all looks good. i dont see whats different about moving the vac line.


 Stock DV? 

I would get a flutter at times and my car was bone stock, try an aftermarket DV


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## Joey GTI (Aug 8, 2011)

Sycoticmynd29 said:


> Stock DV?
> 
> I would get a flutter at times and my car was bone stock, try an aftermarket DV


 I have the 007 forge one and it's not like a huge flutter it just doesn't make the swoosh now. It sounds like a bov or like it's back firing threw the intake or something it's hard to explain lol


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## B6handofgod (May 20, 2012)

Wow I got the same thing I deleted all , my stuff and it doesn't sound like it use to I think there's a leak somewhere


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## Joey GTI (Aug 8, 2011)

B6handofgod said:


> Wow I got the same thing I deleted all , my stuff and it doesn't sound like it use to I think there's a leak somewhere


 I called forge today and was told that the n249 has a slower reaction which is why it has the longer swoosh sound and straight off of intake manifold vac is almost instant which is why it sounded different they said its sounds ok to them. Idk still sounds alil off to me.


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## iliaonabike (Apr 30, 2011)

Awesome DIY. One thing maybe to add is, It would have been easier to drain all the coolant from the bottom radiator hose first. Used towels and everything still made a mess all over the floor and my transmission. Nothing a garden hose can't fix though :beer::beer:
Thanks OP :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Murphyman20thGTI (Oct 5, 2008)

This may be a dumb question but I nee to find out what I need to do!!

What is needed in the evap system to have it up and running and does SAI have to be complete also for it to work correctly?! 

Previous owner removed SAI and evap and also had deleted them from ecu. 

So first off would have to have deletes reprogrammed, then need to install when ever I am missing from evap which I don't know which parts are actually for just evap!!

Thanks in advance tryin to pass inspection and 
Need either 1 of the 2 thing fix to pass. 
SAI or Evap. Which is easier and more practical?!


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## sviederis (Mar 28, 2003)

^I'd put the evap back in. It is simpler and the sai has the majority of crap vacuum lines associated with it. Look in the classifieds for the someone that eliminated their evap system. Should be able to find one cheap. I left my evap system in when I did mine.


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## MNShortBus (Mar 14, 2008)

Murphyman20thGTI said:


> This may be a dumb question but I nee to find out what I need to do!!
> 
> What is needed in the evap system to have it up and running and does SAI have to be complete also for it to work correctly?!
> 
> ...


I have an evap system and sai for sale if you need one.


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## Murphyman20thGTI (Oct 5, 2008)

MNShortBus said:


> I have an evap system and sai for sale if you need one.


Sweet ok good to know, I will def get bak to you!


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## ghostrida02 (Nov 22, 2005)

Nice DIY


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## 20th#3548 (Apr 1, 2013)

Did the evap delete and brake booster mod and now my car idles rough. Stays just below 1k rpm but its idling rough. Do I have to do the resistors for just the evap and brake mods? I also changed the intake manifold gasket to a power gasket, installed a forge tip and fmic while I was in the process. I did the evap and brake booster mod BC the ****ty plastic pipes were cracked.. I don't think I have vacuum leak, I check everywhere. Any suggestions?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

You removed the N80 solenoid from the evap system. Of course you need to resistor it like it says in the DIY.....


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## 20th#3548 (Apr 1, 2013)

Sorry, I did the vac system delete not the evap. I only did a 2 parts of what's in this thread so I'm a lil lost on what resistor I need to do if any. I looked at a few other vac system mods while installing a catch can and none of them mention doing any resistors for the vac system or brake booster mods. Pardon my ignorance in this matter.

Fyi, I capped the 2 ports under the intake manifold and the one on the tip. Checked the hoses and everything looks good. Idk what's up.


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## 20th#3548 (Apr 1, 2013)

Fixed it :laugh:, thanks to the DYI on the pressure test with the 2" PVC cap. Had a big leak at the intake manifold gasket, problem was the bolt that is in the front of the mainfold on the bracket had the bolts/nuts not flush on the gasket. I must say it worked like a charm, found it within 5 minutes of hooking it up. Im so freakin happy now, I couldn't sleep last night thinking about it :banghead:


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## im_lower (Feb 25, 2011)

I want to do this now.


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## munkittrick (Aug 27, 2006)

Okay, I read all the way to page 6 before realizing that this thread was 3 weeks long...but I have a quick question for anyone who might be able to comment.

I just wrapped up my SAI/Evap removal, but is it necessary for me to reinstall that little metal plate that is on the front of the intake manifold? I have no interest in reinstalling my engine covers, but I figured I'd ask in case there is something I don't know about.


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## likethesoup2 (Apr 18, 2011)

I have what I hope isn't a ridiculously stupid question: bought the 3 resistor kit from Urotuning, and the one that's supposed to be for the SAI doesn't seem to fit into the piece I unplugged from the SAI itself. I've looked and looked; is there somewhere else it plugs into?

They sent me a little rectangular one for the SAI (it's also listed on the Integrated Engineering site as being for the SAI). My motor code is AWW.

Thanks for any assistance.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Ummm that resistor doesn't plug into the SAI itself, it plugs into the solenoid wiring that is under the bracket in front of the intake manifold....

1 resistor is for the evap solenoid
2 resistors are for the 2 solenoids below the bracket


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## likethesoup2 (Apr 18, 2011)

Mech thanks a lot for the quick reply; I really appreciate it.

I've got the two resistors plugged into the two items under the bracket that was attached to the intake manifold. 

Please give me a little more . . . direction on the last one.

Thanks again.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Right to the left of your power steering reservoir there is a black thing bolted to the side of the engine bay. It should have a wire. That is the N80 evap solenoid :thumbup:

You can see it in the above picture, it is missing in the lower picture.


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## likethesoup2 (Apr 18, 2011)

Thanks.

I didn't delete my evap; do you think I should still put that on?

It 'looks' like some folks are still putting a resistor on the SAI plug. 

But you don't think it needs it, or matters?

On the Integrated Eng site, it says the oval goes to the evap & a square one to the n249. Then it says a square one goes to the n112; right now I have one square left. 

Forgive me if I'm making this more difficult than it has to be.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Both of the plugs under the manifold should be square. The N80 (evap) is the oval one so you should just have that left. 

One of the solenoids under the manifold has an extension built into it. Essentially wiring harness has oval plug. Extension converts oval plug to square plug. My guess is that you took the extension off your harness and plugged in the oval resistor. It will be fine if you did that, if you decide to do the EVAP delete then just keep the extension and plug the oval end into the plug and the square resistor you still have into the square end.


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## likethesoup2 (Apr 18, 2011)

Thanks very much for your help.


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## kay207 (Nov 20, 2009)

I have the AWW engine, and plan on doing the n249 bypass/ delete Looking at several diy's, it would seem that my setup is very similar to the AWP engine... how do I go about the delete if the hardlines for the dv are attached to the combi valve? And where would I put the resistor?


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## cwyamz (Aug 1, 2012)

kay207 said:


> I have the AWW engine, and plan on doing the n249 bypass/ delete Looking at several diy's, it would seem that my setup is very similar to the AWP engine... how do I go about the delete if the hardlines for the dv are attached to the combi valve? And where would I put the resistor?


Read this thread a few times. It'll begin to make sense 

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/265883/1744207.aspx


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## munkittrick (Aug 27, 2006)

Not that I'm expecting the whole forum to go out and spend more cash if you've already used this kit (which worked flawlessly, by the way), but I used larger diameter piping and brass fittings designed for high-pressure water lines and noticed a difference. I now have 3/4" piping for my valve cover port and my catch can and 5/8" fuel line for the remaining vac lines. After doing a simple boost leak test, I have slightly more upper end boost and my upper RPM limit is now much smoother. It feels like the additional flow allowed for better breathing and the power curve is perfect. Not a lot of DV flutter, very quiet, excellent fitment and SHOULD last through Armageddon if necessary. One other thing that I did was to use all of the brass fittings that fit inside the inner diameter of the hose, but then a "pressure cuff" on the OUTSIDE of the tubing that is apparently used to add additional rigidity and to ensure a very solid fit. WAY overkill, but if anything fails...it won't be in that system. I hope to have some photos after I get my valve cover back from powder coating.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS DIY! I've hated that cluster-funk of pipes since day one and LOVE the clean look and feel. No more replacing random pipe fittings at $15 a pop from VW.


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## waspjr (Sep 3, 2013)

*amb to aww delete mods*

hello I am a newbie with the forum stuff but I have been ready this and used it and had to modify it a lil for the a4 but since my donor engine is a aww this thread has been a huge help I would just like to say thanks for doing this and please keep up the good work I am trying to do some picks of the lil changes I noticed if their is any interest I would post them thanks again


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

*Oh yes DELETE city.*

To the OP, the kit you offer(ed) is a good start for many who are interested to doing this. Great pics and info on the thread here.
:thumbup:

I did a complete delete on my New Beetle 1.8T just finished recently, and I mean DELETES.....
I used the Eurodyne Maestro with a stage 2 flash and disabled everything. Resistored the N112 and N249. Left the evap solenoid inside the fender plugged into electrical, but detached all the air lines and tossed them out. SAI pump and combi valve now sit on my workbench. The PCV system is blocked off at the TIP with a nice metal plug, all the lines are now consolidated into a single draft tube so the nasty crankcase gasses now dump onto the ground. I know, should have used a catch can right? Eff that crap. Just weighs down the car more. 
There's no cat and the second O2 now is nothing but a plug in the newly installed 3" turbo-back exhaust. It just LOOKS like it works. 
Deleted all the ancillary hoses, brackets, lines, and wire harnesses were better hidden in the bay, reran most of the harnesses to the engine but the body harnesses will still need work. 

But additionally, removed every piece of non-essential garbage in the car that I don't use. Removed stuff includes:
Carpet
Headliner
All rear interior trim 
Speakers, monsoon amp, radio
Rear seat removed but able to be reinstalled in case...
Spare tire and tools
Center console
Pillar trims
Airbags + airbag control ECU

Want to relocate the battery to the spare tire area soon. Maybe ditch the door cards, window motors, and install old school straps for window up/down, remove the power sunroof crap and fix the panel permanently, and make the rear power spoiler fixed in the up position as well to dump yet another hundred pounds or more. And if I really want to go nuts, remove the AC system and ditch the majority of dashboard panels and go with a simple pod for guages only. 

In all, right now the car wieghs 2600 lbs or so, maybe a tiny bit more. This is far better than the original 2900 Lbs.... and it's like gaining an extra ten horse or so! Of course just the emissions deletes will only give you maybe a weight savings of 20 LBs so don't expect a ton of extra acceleration from just that.

If you are considering doing the deletes/ engine bay cleanup, I can attest to inspection passing on the OBD-II test with flying colors. Again, this is only if you are using the eurodyne deletes or some other tune, in my case eurodyne saved the day guys. :thumbup: Mine is an extreme example of deletes and wanted to share my results.....


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## zeusenergy (Feb 25, 2008)

SAI plug does NOT need resistor at all.


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

Can someone tell me what all I will need to keep to keep the EVAP system and delete everything else?

Thanks


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Sycoticmynd29 said:


> Can someone tell me what all I will need to keep to keep the EVAP system and delete everything else?
> 
> Thanks


Just delete everything except the EVAP system? haha. Keep the throttlebody vacuum hose, keep the coolant/evap hardlines over the intake manifold, you are going to have to route hose to the TIP from the other side of the evap hardline above the manifold, keep the blue balls and N80 valve on the PS of the engine bay, that is about it i think...


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

*FV-QR*

With the help of this thread, I helped a friend do this to his car.


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## 180sx (May 6, 2012)

*just ordered from you site http://www.diydeleteparts.com/*

hope can do it from first time. will it have any printed papers with the order ?

thank you for your effort.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

You shouldn't have any major issues. No printed papers included, but you can print out the first page of this thread. I think there are 50 some odd pages.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## ckmk4gls (Jun 12, 2013)

Okay, so i understand to do this and not run a catch can i just run a line to the ground, but what do i do about the hockey puck?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Take it out and plug the port on the turbo inlet pipe


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## cutchins (Aug 22, 2011)

Will GIAC software keep me from having problems with inspection in CA if I do this delete?


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## ckmk4gls (Jun 12, 2013)

MechEngg said:


> Take it out and plug the port on the turbo inlet pipe


Alright, thanks for the quick reply


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## QuicksilverFX (Feb 20, 2010)

finished my deletes last weekend, clears up tons of room!

my pile of parts


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Bumping this up for those who are looking to delete their emissions and revamp their PCV system. Too much bs/misinformation being thrown around as gospel. This way of doin it is tried and true by many ppl on vortex. And I know I used it along with savvkos thread over 5 years ago many times for help.


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

I'm gonna bump that bump too and tell folks to check out Savko's video's he's posted on the subject as well. 

http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/

They're not short, but neither is the process of completing this project. Watch them folks, and you'll be miles ahead of where you would have been going into this blind.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Good stuff. Didn't think to add that.


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## virgo (Mar 11, 2014)

Hello guys,

Just a quick intro, I've been reading stuff on VW Vortex for over 4 years, I'm a car enthusiast and self motivated on auto repairs. I do most of the work on my car, so I have a good general understanding, I have a bentley manual, a VAG COM and a Galletto Programmer cable.

About my car, its an Audi A3 8L1, engine code AUQ (Tiptronic) that uses the Golf MK4 platform. 


After reading every single page on this thread and also some other threads related to SAI/PCV/EVAP Delete, I'm still wondering if I did all right but I've got trim code that was not supposed to be there?!?!

I did the ultimate delete on my car last weekend. I also changed all the pressure hoses to silicone and cleaned the IC.

My car engine AUQ doesn't have the blueballs but I have a charcoal filter that I've deleted, resistored and capped the proper connection near the firewall.

I'm using the 42dd stealth catch can using the top port to vent back to the TIP (is it right/correct way?), the bottom one is receiving the gases from the VC and crank.


Once I finished everything I cleared up all codes using VAG COM before starting the car. Realigned/did the self adjust to the throtle body, etc.

The first thing I've noticed once I started the car was a rough idle, after a while it was steady. I've drove a few miles and went back to check the radiator liquid level, so I did scan it with VAG Com again.

It came up with 2 errors, one of them I've fixed, since it was the knock sensor plug (below the IM, near the thermostat) that disconnected while I was putting the IM back and I didn't notice.

The second one is related to the trim levels, on bank one it's reading about 8% (Vag Com) ... I want to figure out if this is related to the SAI Deletion. 


2 Faults Found 

16711 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too Low (fixed)
P0327 - 35-00 - - 
17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean (SAI related??)
P1136 - 35-00 - - 

If anyone could please report back on this findings I would be really greateful. I cleared up the errors but I didn't have time to check it again or do further tests, since I had a motorcycle accident on the 24th and I'm unable to walk very well with bruises on my left hand and below my left knee all the way to my feet (luckyly I didn't break anything).


I thank you guys in advance and I appreciate any feedback.


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## vrrrrr (Aug 9, 2004)

*thanks*

Thank you for this it helps so much :beer:


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

Virgo, take a look here and give the suggested trouble shooting a shot:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17544/P1136/004406


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## virgo (Mar 11, 2014)

FTMFW said:


> Virgo, take a look here and give the suggested trouble shooting a shot:
> 
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17544/P1136/004406


Hi FTMFW, thanks for the reply.

I did check the suggested trouble shooting but as you can see it's all related to the SAI/PCV/EVAP deletion, so I bet that since I didn't code out the SAI incorret flow at start up there might be something related.

I'll double check all the connections once I get the time to even use the car but one thing I already did, fixed a loose clamp on my IC piping that could be related.

I'll report back if the trim code or any other comes up.

Regards,

Virgo


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## JoonSpoon (May 10, 2011)

Does anyone have a source of information to do a full clean up on a 225 amu? 

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## MY02GETTA (Jun 29, 2011)

I did this a few weeks ago and oil is coming out from my oil cap after driving , I did everything the way the d.i.y. said to . Is it just a bad oil cap?

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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

If it's pissing out a lot, then there are other issues. If there is just a sheen on the valve cover around the cap, then it's just a bad cap. Do you have a catch can setup or some sort of ventilation for the PCV?


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## MY02GETTA (Jun 29, 2011)

No its coming out the oil cap and getting on the valve cover. I have a catch can 

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## vdubwolfy (Jul 19, 2010)

Not to sound like a dur... but in doin this delete what am i actually acheiving. I have a 1.8t tryin to clean up some of the bs under the hood.. not worried with emissions as i will have it tuned and yje ecu will be programmed to fit this delete.. however im yryin to grasp yje purpose for this delete.. is it to just clean up the engine bay or is there potential performance gains in doing so.. could i get a quick run yhrough about what this delete can do


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## Keybordem (Feb 22, 2004)

Two questions

What size vacuum caps do I need for the extra manifold nipples? (AWP)

Why can't I run a hose from the breather elbow up to a tee hose off the the valve cover then to the puck on the TIP? Basically it would be a resurculated catch can set up just with out the catch can right?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Keybordem said:


> Two questions
> 
> What size vacuum caps do I need for the extra manifold nipples? (AWP)
> 
> Why can't I run a hose from the breather elbow up to a tee hose off the the valve cover then to the puck on the TIP? Basically it would be a resurculated catch can set up just with out the catch can right?


I guess so...but why would you go through the hassle to do that? Why not just stay OEM at that point?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Keybordem said:


> Two questions
> 
> What size vacuum caps do I need for the extra manifold nipples? (AWP)
> 
> Why can't I run a hose from the breather elbow up to a tee hose off the the valve cover then to the puck on the TIP? Basically it would be a resurculated catch can set up just with out the catch can right?


That is how it is stock bud :thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

MechEngg said:


> That is how it is stock bud :thumbup:


Not exactly...


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## Keybordem (Feb 22, 2004)

I don't wanna deal with a catch can in winter since my car sits outside next to a rather large field and gets really cold. OEM wise looked at the 034/eurojet kits and 150 seems like a lot to basically mimic the OEM but with one check valve. 

I guess what I am asking is... If doing all the deletes and not a catch is the pcv valve important? I've considered running to the ground but then figured why not just recirculate anyways since that seems to be acceptable to VAG. I had no bad sludgey build up when checking recently.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

groggory said:


> Not exactly...


Pretty darn close except for the extra vacuum into the intake manifold to separate the pressure/vacuum applications.


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## Keybordem (Feb 22, 2004)

So one needs a valve then if there's a pressure and vacuum source. The tip has vacuum but no boost unlike the intake manifold? So I should be good then if there's no going back and forth pressure wise in the system?


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## nv08901 (Jan 1, 2014)

*sai pump delete*

if i want to delete the sai can i still keep the combi valve on.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Keybordem said:


> So one needs a valve then if there's a pressure and vacuum source. The tip has vacuum but no boost unlike the intake manifold? So I should be good then if there's no going back and forth pressure wise in the system?


Im running with just the puck that connects to the turbo inlet still in place. Hose runs directly from the block breather elbow and valve cover to a tee that leads to the puck/turbo inlet. Simple as can be. no catch can. No smoking/oil consumption or anything. I will be running a catch can eventually, just don't have the one I want yet.



Also would like to add to the thread and say I did this delete on my 04 TT 225 BEA motor and was happy to find there was no need to remove my coolant flange! The combi valve was mounted onto a extension piece. Which allowed me to remove the valve to access the allen bolt that cant be reached otherwise. I also didn't have the mess of connections on my combi valve. Its literally just a inlet, outlet and electrical plug. No other things attached. I shoulda snapped pics while I was in there. Ill try to post a couple after work today.

Don't know if someone already noted this and I haven't seen but it made the job so much easier than what the AWP ppl gotta go through.


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## Keybordem (Feb 22, 2004)

steve-o 16v GLI said:


> Im running with just the puck that connects to the turbo inlet still in place. Hose runs directly from the block breather elbow and valve cover to a tee that leads to the puck/turbo inlet. Simple as can be. no catch can. No smoking/oil consumption or anything. I will be running a catch can eventually, just don't have the one I want yet.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No oil leaks? Searching the archives I found a few references to leaking main seals without the added vacuum helping pull out the pressure. Couldn't find any actual evidence just a few guesses hence my previous questions. Does the BEA motor have extra vacuum sources in the pcv setup? Extra valve cover nipple, three way pcv valve? 

While the AWP is in the diy, in some ways the late model AWP's are different. I just want to be clear for myself and others in the late AWP position that the PCV part of this DIY is applicable. For some reason the VAG engineers added more vacuum sources to the late model soon to be obsolete engine when the 2.0t was begining production.


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## steve-o 16v GLI (Jun 26, 2005)

Keybordem said:


> No oil leaks? Searching the archives I found a few references to leaking main seals without the added vacuum helping pull out the pressure. Couldn't find any actual evidence just a few guesses hence my previous questions. Does the BEA motor have extra vacuum sources in the pcv setup? Extra valve cover nipple, three way pcv valve?
> 
> While the AWP is in the diy, in some ways the late model AWP's are different. I just want to be clear for myself and others in the late AWP position that the PCV part of this DIY is applicable. For some reason the VAG engineers added more vacuum sources to the late model soon to be obsolete engine when the 2.0t was begining production.


Nope. As I said it is connected to the turbo inlet for vacuum. As long as your car is completely healthy and your setup is done proper, ppl have run VTA catch cans with no issue. It just happens that doing this mod can exacerbate issues that you already had. That's why some who don't know better blame the mod they just did for being the problem. Usually its a motor issue or incorrect catch can setup causing it.

Honestly I think my BEA was a ton less complicated than my AWP was. But as long as you educate yourself on what the pcv system is first it will be pretty easy. But then again Ive done this many times. 
Id look at it like this. Break it all down a bit. You have only three needed connections in the simple pcv system on the 1.8t. The block breather, valvecover, turbo inlet. Then you need to think about the other systems you need to hook back up like the FPR, DV, boost guage, ect. In my case I only was left with two small vac lines for the FPR/boost guage, my DV, and my brake booster hose that needed a new routing. Everything else was capped and removed.


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## moondragon (May 18, 2014)

hey everyone... total noob here.. just now trying to change spark plugs and valve cover gaskets on my 1.8T AWV and this vacuum reservoir thingy with all the hoses are a PITA. This mod seems way over my head, but if I do decide to give it a try is there a performance loss? i love the idea of all this stuff being gone, but I also have to pass California DMV inspection 

Cheers,

Moon


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## virgo (Mar 11, 2014)

If you guys get the catch can kit from 034 and use the return to pan kit, make sure you change the crap rubber hose from the return kit, it softens with oil and a month later you'll find oil dripping on the floor. At first I thought I had cracked my belly pan but then it was just that bloody hose. Swapped with a nice hard vacuum style hose and it's done. Changing with the pan full of oil is a pitta but manageable. 
I've used some hi-temp silicone sealant to make sure it won't fail again.










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## vwking (Dec 14, 2001)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::beer::beer::beer::beer:


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## 1.8tizzle (May 22, 2003)

Heres mine for reference. Really cleans up a lot of mess :thumbup:


Engine bay by pdlopez85, on Flickr


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## LauderdaleDub1290 (Feb 17, 2014)

Did my deletes over the weekend with the urotuning kit and followed these instructions, couldn't be happier with the results! Oh and I got no CELS when finished on an AWP engine. Thanks for a great write up OP.


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## Strata (Aug 5, 2014)

Did this delete last weekend in '02 Audi TT 180Q (AWP Engine). This was a great step by step and was easy to follow, even with the differences with the Audi. Attached is a pic post delete. You will notice that there is a ton more space in my engine compartment now, especially since I have already moved my battery behind the seats and moved my air intake behind the lower bumper section. Please forgive the dirty engine compartment, this is a track only car and I don't really care how shiny the engine compartment is, Also ignore the zip tie holding the catch can on, I haven't had time to fabricate the necessary custom bracket yet.

Fwd: by andrewdibello, on Flickr


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## virgo (Mar 11, 2014)

I have the hoses inverted in my catch can setup, not sure if mine or yours is OK.


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## Billy_1.8tgti (Sep 13, 2014)

*Hi I have a aum 1.8t golf mk4*

Hi how you doing I have been told by the guys on Facebook forum mk4 golf owner club uk that this is the kit I need to black this part off I have a few question one would be what do you recommend I do and how much is it going to cost for everything including the parts you think should be changed while I'm in there lol thanks billy


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## dubish (May 17, 2011)

My buddy just did this complete delete to his AWD engine. Has everything 100% correct and is also running a catch can. But the car starts up gets a very rough idle then shuts off. If you try to start it back up again it just cranks. If you let it sit 10 minutes it will start and rough idle then shut off again. Any help on what the issue could be? Every vacuum line is plugged correctly. Can't find any issues. Any help would be great


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

Before:









After:


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## MK4JETDRIER (Dec 15, 2006)

*Pcv delete*

What's the cost for the kit I want one 
I have a aAPR st 3 will that work too on it.


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Current pricing is listed here for those interested. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?t=


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Sycoticmynd29 said:


>


How are you routing that hoses from the valve cover breather that goes down? What's it connect to?


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

The DIY keeps the elbow piece coming off the top of the oil cooler, I did not. I got an adapter so I could run a hose straight up from the oil cooler to a T piece.

Basically looks like this:


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## DubzterChris (Feb 28, 2013)

So am still lost from soo much Info and all..

My breather hose is all messed up, the T where the pcv valve goes in its detoriating already so I need to fix it temporary dont have time to wait for a catch can at the moment nor the extra funds as I got another VR in the shop as well so will be doing all these deletes in stages.

The whole running the hose to ground but where from and does the hockey puck stay in/out?


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## hazy450 (Jul 22, 2010)

sub'd


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Just had to chime in and say it's hillarious to me that more people have read this delete thread than the main faq at the top of the forum.


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## sponcar (Feb 5, 2010)

Sycoticmynd29 said:


> After:


What size of hose did you use for the Brake booster line?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

1/2"


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

sponcar said:


> What size of hose did you use for the Brake booster line?





nstevic01 said:


> 1/2"


That is correct, it's 1/2"


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## mikedellavolpe (May 5, 2014)

*Please Help!*

Followed the DIY every step, did the whole mod without even looking back online. SO glad to have it done and the car runs and starts up beautifully, HOWEVER, the oil catch can I purchased is a $20 ebay one, and has an inlet, outlet, but no breather filter. The level meter on the side is going up very slowly and looks like a watery substance, and I know I must empty it when full. I had taken off the hose to the inlet about a week after the mod, and there is a substantial amount of yellow sludge in the hose and was basically blocking it. I understand that the catch can 'catches' that and then recirculates whatever is left, however, every time I pull my dipstick to check my oil, the entire stick is caked with this yellow sludge. The hoses are now clear after I put a wider hose on to replace the small hoses that came with the product. My car has 161k on it, and has been very well maintained by myself for the past 20k (oil changes more than regularly, coolant flushes, flange replaced coolant pipes, trans replaced at around 130k) I did the entire delete exactly how I was supposed to, and everything is in tip top shape from what I can tell. I am looking for whatever help I can get, wether its to buy a new catch can or to do whatever. Any help will be greatly appreciated  Thank you!

Just so everybody is aware, My car is a 2002 1.8t AWP, automatic :/


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## mikedellavolpe (May 5, 2014)

*A before and after picture*










The hose connecting the valve cover to the catch can is now 3/4 to 1/2 instead of the ****ty blue hose they sent me, however, the outlet leading back to the intake is the same.


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## burnstash420 (Feb 26, 2014)

Hey great write up. I'm doing that delete now I got a custom tune from Eurocustoms and let him know about the deletes. Do I still need to use resisters??


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

burnstash420 said:


> Hey great write up. I'm doing that delete now I got a custom tune from Eurocustoms and let him know about the deletes. Do I still need to use resisters??


Yes


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## ryan427 (Jan 10, 2015)

Has anybody that has done this delete used the plug in resistors? if so do they work?
http://www.speedlifemotorsport.com/sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug/

Also where are you guys getting your catch cans?


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## ryan427 (Jan 10, 2015)

Ttt


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

mikedellavolpe said:


> Followed the DIY every step, did the whole mod without even looking back online. SO glad to have it done and the car runs and starts up beautifully, HOWEVER, the oil catch can I purchased is a $20 ebay one, and has an inlet, outlet, but no breather filter. The level meter on the side is going up very slowly and looks like a watery substance, and I know I must empty it when full. I had taken off the hose to the inlet about a week after the mod, and there is a substantial amount of yellow sludge in the hose and was basically blocking it. I understand that the catch can 'catches' that and then recirculates whatever is left, however, every time I pull my dipstick to check my oil, the entire stick is caked with this yellow sludge. The hoses are now clear after I put a wider hose on to replace the small hoses that came with the product. My car has 161k on it, and has been very well maintained by myself for the past 20k (oil changes more than regularly, coolant flushes, flange replaced coolant pipes, trans replaced at around 130k) I did the entire delete exactly how I was supposed to, and everything is in tip top shape from what I can tell. I am looking for whatever help I can get, wether its to buy a new catch can or to do whatever. Any help will be greatly appreciated  Thank you!
> 
> Just so everybody is aware, My car is a 2002 1.8t AWP, automatic :/


Let your car warm up before driving. That sludge is a result of the water in the oil condensating. If you warm your car up to full temp it will remove the water and help avoid that sludge. Overall its pretty common, just keep an eye on oil levels.




ryan427 said:


> Has anybody that has done this delete used the plug in resistors? if so do they work?
> http://www.speedlifemotorsport.com/sai-evap-delete-resistor-rectangle-plug/
> 
> Also where are you guys getting your catch cans?



I used the plug in resisters from Urotuning, which appear to be similar. The ones you linked should work, just be sure to get the correct number of square plugs and oval plugs (dont remember how many of each off the top of my head)

As for where to get a catch can, I went with the Integrated engineering Recirc can as it can be completely disassembled to clean, as well as replace the baffling material inside. Another popular catch can is the stealth can made by 42DD. Both are about the same price, so its up yo you. There are definitely cheaper options on the market, and catch cans are universal. Just be sure to plumb them correctly depending on if it is a recirc catch can, or a vent to atmosphere catch can.


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

Can someone help me prove a point to a friend?

If you are NOT running a catch can, no vacuum pull from the Oil Filter hohsing to the valve cover, just the 034 adapter, 3/4 NPT 90, and a hose going from the 90 fitting straight up to the Y in the valve cover and the CPV is still in in the loop.

Do you NEED the PCV valve if you have no vacuum pull?


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

The oil filter housing/crankcase and the valve cover do not generate vacuum.

Pcv valve goes between that system and the intake mani

Are you talking about the prv valve ?


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## 2OVT (Sep 11, 2009)

Which valve is in the 'T'?

I know it doesn't pull vacuum, my friend was under the assumption that vacuum pulled some of the pressure from the crank case via the hose from intake mani to the 'T'.

Is this correct or no?

The valve between oil filter housing and valve cover is gone on his car. He was wondering if since that valve is gone and there's no connection between intake manifold, what keeps pressure from reversing? I wasn't aware the crank pressure could but he insist otherwise.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Pcv valve, suction jet pump, and prv valve work in harmony 


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## burnstash420 (Feb 26, 2014)

So getting the deletes on the tune I still need resisters Can you tell me why??


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## virgo (Mar 11, 2014)

Resistors will make u run without cel light and ecu errors. I still get the sai pump incorrect flow error from time to time tho.


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## burnstash420 (Feb 26, 2014)

Ok... I thought when I got my ecu tuned I had him write all the deletes in it so I didn't get them... I was under the impression that I didn't need resisters if it was in the tune. That's why I'm a bit confused


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## virgo (Mar 11, 2014)

From what I heard from my tuner (he does custom tuning on demand and on the dyno), It's easier to put some resistors than finding out the correct lines to get those warnings off by programming.

In my opinion, If you are not certain that it's programmed, just don't use any resistor and see what comes up. You should have vag com, so you know what's going on. If you get all the errors and a cel light, just put the resistors, clear the errors and call it a day.


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## burnstash420 (Feb 26, 2014)

Ok thanks yeah I do have vag so when I get my exhaust back on I will put the battery back in and see what happens. Thanks


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## mikedellavolpe (May 5, 2014)

*Fixed sludge problem*

Havent checked on here in a while but you are correct, there was condensation on my dipstick along with the sludge. The problem was my thermostat being stuck open. I always thought my car running around 140 160 rather than directly 190 was a good thing. turns out it isnt. Engine wasnt getting hot enough no matter how much I let car warm up.


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## parrigin19 (Jan 25, 2015)

Has anybody ever seen or heard of this issue need help , totally lost the fuel injector and injector cup have melted on number two cylinder


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## .Ant (Jun 7, 2011)

parrigin19 said:


> Has anybody ever seen or heard of this issue need help , totally lost the fuel injector and injector cup have melted on number two cylinder


You might want to make your own thread.... This thread has nothing to do with your issue.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

.Ant said:


> You might want to make your own thread.... This thread has nothing to do with your issue.


X2

But my guess is the injector has a short within itself. That's the only thing I could think of.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> X2
> 
> But my guess is the injector has a short within itself. That's the only thing I could think of.


That sounds reasonable


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## parrigin19 (Jan 25, 2015)

If i have not resistored the 4 connectors yet , could that have an affect


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## kvostaa (Feb 27, 2015)

What about PCV on AGU? I can't find DIY about it nowhere. And nothing about AGU in internet.


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## mikerosoft (Mar 20, 2004)

kvostaa said:


> What about PCV on AGU? I can't find DIY about it nowhere. And nothing about AGU in internet.


Have you checked here? http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/17685-18t-pcv-simplification-and-catch-can-installation/


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

Send me a pm, I still sell them.


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## Rozy (Dec 5, 2010)

*AWV*

Can someone post a pic with this delete on a beetle AWV


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## leeo211980 (Apr 9, 2015)

*just a question ????*

im not really car good at this thing :banghead: is there anyone on here that would do this for me in the northwest ga area would be willing to pay for there time :wave:


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## 5space (Jan 29, 2015)

Does anyone know what sizes and how many of the vac caps are needed (AWP engine here)?


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## Blueblackeyes (Apr 25, 2009)

If any one is doing this complete delete i would like to buy all parts/hose/checkvalve, everthing, pm me lets talk


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## 5space (Jan 29, 2015)

I've got four of the 10W 330 ohm resistors if someone needs them. Send me a PM.


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## Mr_Long (Dec 9, 2003)

Hello folks,

Did these deletes yesterday, just for general info you can go ahead without the needs of the 2 90° elbows as you can see on my image below.

Like the puck was broke I use it like the elbow and for valve cover just use the same hose.


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## mighty_mite00 (Apr 15, 2014)

*I did things*

Finally got around to doing this delete. 2005 MK4 GLI
Before:









After:









Spare parts (Blue balls are still in the car just in case I want to put the EVAP system back in:









I already had a catch can installed previously, I reused the puck for the 90 degree elbow to the TIP, I think the spot on my TIP is larger than 3/4".

I only used resistors on the n80, n112 and n249 plugs.

Car started and acted as if I didn't change a thing, only received the improper flow code, no CELs yet!!!


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## Mr_Long (Dec 9, 2003)

Hey Gurus,

Scanned the car last night and found code 16825 P0441 EVAP control system: incorrect flow. All resistors are in place, how do I fix it?


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## Dub Ken (Dec 24, 2004)

Contact a tuner and have them turn off the EVAP system in the ECU. Or put EVAP back in the car.


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## Dub Ken (Dec 24, 2004)

Anyone have a hockey puck / pankcake / PRV valve that they don't need? Happy to compensate. :beer:


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## chris_72 (May 27, 2008)

*Pressure?*

Hey everyone, 
I did this mod about a year ago, but I noticed that there was a lot of pressure building up in the crank case. Basically with the motor running I popped the oil fill cap off, and there was a lot of air being blown out of there. I've only driven the car about 75-100km since I did the mod, but I'm just wondering if that's normal or not? 
Any info would be great!


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## JBHELL (May 5, 2011)

*Question on shipping*

Hi I just order a kit with the block off plate on your site. I was wondering what kind of shipping you offered or if u have an eta on when I would be receiving it. Thanks!


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

JBHELL said:


> Hi I just order a kit with the block off plate on your site. I was wondering what kind of shipping you offered or if u have an eta on when I would be receiving it. Thanks!


Yours will be going out tonight. I ship usps flat rate, usually takes 2-3 business days to get to a destination.

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## GTIturbo1 (Jan 9, 2013)

Anyone done this delete on an aum?


Mk4 GTI 1.8t AUM


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## kobek (Aug 20, 2013)

I have but unfortunately I am getting errors when connecting to vag-com:

17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P1200 - 35-00 - -

I have tried with resistor to bypass n249 as I thought it might be damaged and was getting the same error. 
So then I connected n249 to 12V battery and I could hear click so assumed that n249 is working fine, put it back to the car but I am still getting those codes.

I replaced DV before the bypass because I knew that it wasnt working fine.

Anybody can advice? Thanks


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

kobek said:


> I have but unfortunately I am getting errors when connecting to vag-com:
> 
> 17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
> P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
> ...


Do an intake pressure test per faq and see if you are having a boost leak somewhere


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## Bikerboy_migue (Jul 12, 2015)

*Hello I want to buy the kit you are selling*

Hello I want to buy the kit you are selling, how or where can I buy it from I really need it. It's urgent.


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## maras (Jul 21, 2015)

Hi, i have a question. When i have SAI off with soft, i need still VAC Reservoir? Or i can blind it.


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## M.t_mk4 (Jul 25, 2015)

*How*

How much is the whole kit


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

M.t_mk4 said:


> How much is the whole kit


What kit?


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## corocco (Jul 29, 2001)

This kit, http://www.diydeleteparts.com/?


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## nstevic01 (Nov 9, 2007)

My FS thread is here -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...AP-Delete-Kit-Pretty-much-everything-you-need

Or you can order from my site in the signature. Prices are listed in the first post, and on the website.


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## Mwdecostajr (Aug 22, 2015)

*Help*

Ok ran through your diy to help me with the process went with ie catch can set up and urotunings plug and play resistors car ran fine for about a hour now throwing multiple codes p1297 and po501 and keep getting a misfire first it was cylinder four the injector wasn't plugged in all the way now it's cylinder 2 and I don't know why I really need help on figuring this out


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## jgazso (Sep 17, 2015)

*deleting codes*

how to get rid of codes po444 & po413?


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## powerplant (Jan 2, 2003)

I swapped a complete wiring system from a 2000 Jetta into my 83 rabbit and after many system deletes and changes I'm now not sure what wires need the resistors. I snipped off the connectors also so looking at them is no help to me. A Bentley manual is on the way but I want to sort this thing out tomorrow. 

Can someone be a pal and verify the wire colors that need the resistors?.... or better yet, snap some pics?


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

the key is in your signature.

the wires that need t obe resistored are not exclusive in color. they will need to be traced, at this point, from their terminus to their source, with teh wiring diagram on hand. you've made a lot of work for yourself by not labeling the wires ahead of time.


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## jaysvw (Oct 15, 2001)

I ran into this issue as well on my AWW 1.8t. Double check before you order the kits, because my N112 is an oval plug instead of a square, meaning I needed 2 oval resistors and one square. 




RodgertheRabit II said:


> Does anyone know if this little extension is redundant?
> 
> I have an oval resistor that id rather use then the square one and wire extension. Will it cause any issues?


----------



## VWScout (May 8, 2013)

After:







[/QUOTE]

Where does that hose from the top of the expansion tank go to? I have my blocked off and now my car wont fill with coolant, must be some kind of vacuum? Any help please?


----------



## Adesruisseau (Nov 14, 2015)

*Necessity of Resistors??*

First, I want to say thanks for the write-up I love this delete I just finished it on my car. I haven't installed resistors yet. I was curious about the importance and specifics. Do they have to be 10W 330ohm or was this a random resistor you stuck in there that worked. Second, I was attempting to start my engine after everything was back together, and the engine would crank but never turn over. Not at all. Any ideas?? Thanks again!!!


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## jgazso (Sep 17, 2015)

*thamks for info however:*

have put in resistors and am still having engine light problems-stayed off for 34 miles the1st reset and 88 the 2nd then came back on,not sure what to try next.We also removed n-80 valve and that is the code it is throwing-purge system-not sure you did this in your delete. also is it necessary to keep fuel level between 1/4 and 3/4 for engine "reset" to begin, how and how many miles do I need to go after a reset before testing?- appreciate your time and will await your response.


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## jgazso (Sep 17, 2015)

*same codes here can u help please?*



reflected said:


> i can take care of those codes for you. hit me up. :beer:


same codes on here PLEASE help e check due!


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## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

VWScout said:


> After:
> http://i.imgur.com/utllOW7.jpg
> 
> Where does that hose from the top of the expansion tank go to? I have my blocked off and now my car wont fill with coolant, must be some kind of vacuum? Any help please?[/QUOTE]
> ...


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

VWScout said:


> Where does that hose from the top of the expansion tank go to? I have my blocked off and now my car wont fill with coolant, must be some kind of vacuum? Any help please?


It runs to the top of the coolant 4-y hose, which is on the driver's side about 10 inches behind the radiator.


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## MÄDDNESSS (Oct 18, 2010)

Does anybody else visit this thread just to laugh at the questions the new ask? Which happens like 2-3 times a page. Lol.


----------



## Sycoticmynd29 (Jan 17, 2011)

MÄDDNESSS said:


> Does anybody else visit this thread just to laugh at the questions the new ask? Which happens like 2-3 times a page. Lol.


I check in every once in a while because my picture gets quoted and I try to answer any questions someone might be asking about it, but I do enjoy some of these questions.


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## forumaccount (Jul 24, 2012)

I read something indicating the EVAP system was necessary for ventilation to keep the gas tank pressure stable. I just read something else that said it's there to run the vented vapors through the charcoal canister to help reduce smog. It seems both are correct, but the EVAP is not NECESSARY for venting, but just to filter emissions basically.

Just wondering what the deal is.


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## Timmy6216 (Feb 5, 2016)

well hi there everyone. im Tim. im rocking a black 20th that far as i can tell, no one ever loved. iv been lurking around this site and i found this kit. i just pulled the trigger on it and as soon as it gets to me i will be dispatching all that stuff under my hood with a quickness. pics to come.


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## Poptart667 (Jan 20, 2016)

*Do you still sell kits ?*

I definitely need to do this to my car.


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## carel2 (Apr 28, 2015)

savphili said:


> You know, this was my initial instinct, but I wasn't too sure. My buddy changed out my fuel injection lines. I think that might be it, i'll trouble shoot later on tonight or tomorrow if I have time and get back at ya.
> 
> Thanks again for the great DIY!


Good day I have. The aeb motor can someone please help me with delete this staff please


2slogetta said:


> It shows this in directions.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk


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## FTMFW (Jan 1, 2008)

For those asking how, who, what, etc... watch the DIY videos on this page. 

http://www.bysavko.com/video/diys/

They're not short.... around 45 minutes each I believe. But the process of this delete isn't quick either and these videos WILL make the whole process a lot less painful and also help alleviate a lot of the guess work.


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## Boneskid1 (May 13, 2015)

I need some help and after reading the thread twice I cannot find the exact answer.

My gti has a AWP engine and it has a evap line that runs all the way over to the lower part of the TIP

I am not going to delete my evap system so.... can I cap the evap line near the intake mani or do I need to run a new line from the evap hardline into the TIP

it is the green line in the pic near where the fuel rail is


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## h00pslayer90 (Dec 10, 2006)

Anyone running this in Massachusetts? If so what software do I need to just delete emissions, I am not really interested in performance tuning. 

Devin


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## jcaldwell1 (Jul 12, 2016)

*No blue balls on my 2000 ATC*

I got the sai and the combivalve removed. The evap I have two lines that run out under the passengers side fender under the plastic fenderwell. There is a pump here I am pretty sure this is removed (maybe it was revised in later models. I have 2 plugins which I woudl imagine both need resistors. Anyone done these deletes on a ATC before?


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## carsluTT (Dec 31, 2004)

ran thru this while doing another SAI removal over the weekend, always great to have some photos to help with the odds and ends.


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## poisonouschimp (Aug 14, 2009)

*CEL's in question*

After doing this delete I am pulling quite a few codes. I put the 4 - 330ohm resistors in the wires just like the post said, soldered them on and heat shrunk them on. The car also has a straight pipe turbo back and ram intake. Does anyone know what of these codes are ones to worry about and which are ok left as is? I reset them a few time and they keep coming back on. The P0353 code I already resolved...turned out the cop #3 wire had backed out a little .


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## ckrescho (Sep 27, 2016)

Im doing this right now, just waiting for my hose to get here.


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## dem3500 (Mar 27, 2015)

poisonouschimp said:


> After doing this delete I am pulling quite a few codes. I put the 4 - 330ohm resistors in the wires just like the post said, soldered them on and heat shrunk them on. The car also has a straight pipe turbo back and ram intake. Does anyone know what of these codes are ones to worry about and which are ok left as is? I reset them a few time and they keep coming back on. The P0353 code I already resolved...turned out the cop #3 wire had backed out a little .


you will get codes that you can not get rid of. SAI inproper flow is one you can not get rid of with a resistor. only software. i did this delete last year and am almost finished putting it all back on. it causes more problems then its worth. imo. doing the delete has ZERO performance gain. providing you have properly working vacuum/evap/emissions system to begin with. removing the evap will cause you to loose mpg.


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## cmdshft (Oct 17, 2011)

dem3500 said:


> you will get codes that you can not get rid of. SAI inproper flow is one you can not get rid of with a resistor. only software. i did this delete last year and am almost finished putting it all back on. it causes more problems then its worth. imo. doing the delete has ZERO performance gain. providing you have properly working vacuum/evap/emissions system to begin with. removing the evap will cause you to loose mpg.


Not true. I have all the deletes done and I have not lost MPGs at all. Still get between 27-33mpg depending on distance and how heavy I'm driving.


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## dem3500 (Mar 27, 2015)

cmdshft said:


> Not true. I have all the deletes done and I have not lost MPGs at all. Still get between 27-33mpg depending on distance and how heavy I'm driving.


you have told me that my statements are not true but you only addressed MPG. i can accept that that may not have any hard scientific data behind it, just myself monitoring my own MPG. the rest of my statements are factual.


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## cmdshft (Oct 17, 2011)

dem3500 said:


> you have told me that my statements are not true but you only addressed MPG. i can accept that that may not have any hard scientific data behind it, just myself monitoring my own MPG. the rest of my statements are factual.


No, I only said your statement about MPGs reduced was untrue.

If you have reduced MPGs then you may have other issues at hand. I have a very tight and great condition motor and deleting all that junk had no impact negative or positive regarding MPGs.

You should not spread FUD if you have no other input other than just your own experience. Perhaps you should investigate your situation as to why you have reduced MPGs, perhaps you don't have a proper delete setup perhaps...


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## ckrescho (Sep 27, 2016)

I just finished this about two hours ago. The car is hesitating under acceleration and I must have lost the gasket to the coolant temperature sensor housing because its pissing water everywhere.


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## ckrescho (Sep 27, 2016)

Does anybody know if this will make the car run a bit off until the resistors are put in?


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## kingmal5 (Feb 27, 2016)

My car came with the AWP engine and the head was changed to AWM which I don't believe matters in the end since the valve cover is still the late style AWP one.. I've done the install with the catch can and have been having rough idle.. That was solved by getting the throttle body adapted.. Another issue is a fuel cut or misfire at times.. The idle will sometimes settle at about 600rpm or it'll stall out when coming to a stop..







All fittings have been clamped since this picture. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ckrescho (Sep 27, 2016)

I finished the project including the resistor part, except for the one underneath where the SAI used to be. The car is running much better now despite accidentally beginning to start into the wrong plug. Thanks.


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## austinweis20vt (Nov 24, 2016)

adding for reference for others!:beer:
91 gti AWP 1.8t.


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## kev41 (Dec 17, 2011)

One quick question, my engine code is BEK, which doesn't have a SAI. If so, with all the resistors should I still get a cel?

Thanks!


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## GTIturbo1 (Jan 9, 2013)

The only thing that should cause a cel is the resistor for the Sai connection without a re map after removal it comes on about every 300 miles after you switch it off but as you don't have an sai I would scan it to see what the code is 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kev41 (Dec 17, 2011)

GTIturbo1 said:


> The only thing that should cause a cel is the resistor for the Sai connection without a re map after removal it comes on about every 300 miles after you switch it off but as you don't have an sai I would scan it to see what the code is
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I haven't deleted all the systems yet, I want to know if I'll get a cel for doing it.
Guess I shouldn't get any cel then?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GTIturbo1 (Jan 9, 2013)

kev41 said:


> I haven't deleted all the systems yet, I want to know if I'll get a cel for doing it.
> Guess I shouldn't get any cel then?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You shouldn't get one if you haven't deleted the whole system it's the resistor on the sai that causes the cel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GTIturbo1 (Jan 9, 2013)

GTIturbo1 said:


> You shouldn't get one if you haven't deleted the whole system it's the resistor on the sai that causes the cel
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Or should I say the lack of sai there the resistor just delays the light coming on 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kev41 (Dec 17, 2011)

My car doesn't have a sai from factory (engine code bek), so I will be fine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GTIturbo1 (Jan 9, 2013)

Yea you will be fine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ckrescho (Sep 27, 2016)

I got Gonzo stage 2 tune w/ SAI delete etc. no more check engine light.


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## barnacles1992 (Oct 24, 2016)

Great Info :beer: :beer: :beer: eace:


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## MrCaarmine (Apr 6, 2017)

So I'm pretty sure I've read every page of this thread, but I apologize if I missed it. I see that the OP said that this works on AWM engine codes, but I haven't seen anybody with one say they have done it. Has anyone done this on their AWM engine? Was it easier or more difficult?
I also can't seem to find a kit specifically for an '04 Passat 1.8T AWM engine. All the kits from the new supplier specify other engine codes and for use in Golfs and Jettas.


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## dtch (Jan 30, 2017)

Do you need the resistors? I've been reading other threads on forums regarding Audi and Seat branded vehicles with the same engine and some say not to use resistors as they can fault and short the ECU. Is there any truth in this?


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## cmdshft (Oct 17, 2011)

dtch said:


> Do you need the resistors? I've been reading other threads on forums regarding Audi and Seat branded vehicles with the same engine and some say not to use resistors as they can fault and short the ECU. Is there any truth in this?


If you somehow short them, sure. But Urotuning makes plug and play resistors that use factory connectors with insulated resistors which make things a no brainer. 

It's also based on the tune. Some tunes require them, some tunes can work without them.


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## XmoDDeR (Dec 21, 2010)

*anyone in longisland or close to to delete*

is there anyone in longisland or close by that i can pay to do the delete on sons 1.8 gti
?
thanks


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## ralphyralph5 (Jan 2, 2016)

XmoDDeR said:


> is there anyone in longisland or close by that i can pay to do the delete on sons 1.8 gti
> ?
> thanks


Hey Xmodder, I can help with this. PM me... I'm in Glendale Queens.


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## XmoDDeR (Dec 21, 2010)

after delete where does wastegate soenoid vacum line go to??


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## Gladhuser (Sep 25, 2017)

hello , i found this post long time ago and now I'm trying to do it myself , but i have some problems with it because my engine is vertical and some of the vacuum lines do not match, can someone help me to solve this problem ?


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## BoostedB5T (Apr 2, 2008)

Better tell boo to get ordering! Love the DIY


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dropped Metal Customs (Feb 2, 2011)

I'd really like to do thisPVC delete to my 04 wagon but I'm in California and just want to have a few questions answered before I start ordering parts and ripping parts out. 
I found a leak in the PCV and want to delete it I have a unitronic stage1 tune but also have the stage2 available and I'd like to try but I was told by the privious owner of the jetta that most aftermarket hi flow cats pop the check engine light with the stage2 tune so he replaced it with a stock cat and stage1 tune! Being that I'm in California I can't have check engine lights for smog.
Any info would be great


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## Wolfsburg-Tom (Mar 3, 2016)

Dropped Metal Customs said:


> I'd really like to do thisPVC delete to my 04 wagon but I'm in California and just want to have a few questions answered before I start ordering parts and ripping parts out.
> I found a leak in the PCV and want to delete it I have a unitronic stage1 tune but also have the stage2 available and I'd like to try but I was told by the privious owner of the jetta that most aftermarket hi flow cats pop the check engine light with the stage2 tune so he replaced it with a stock cat and stage1 tune! Being that I'm in California I can't have check engine lights for smog.
> Any info would be great


Granted, it's been a while since I lived in Cali, but I doubt smog has gotten easier since then. Pretty much any modification to the emissions/pcv systems will fail smog. You might be able to get away with running a catch can setup instead of the stock pcv, but it would have to be non vented. As for the high flow cat, check the CARB website and see if there are any high flow cats approved by them.


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## rogosteve1 (Nov 4, 2017)

*Stealth catch can question.*

Awesome DIY, thank you so much. Just finished this delete recently and have a stealth catch can from 42dd. I attached the hoses from crankcase and valve to the bottom port of the can. Top port of can goes to TIP. Is this correct? I've seen pics on this thread where others attach the hoses the opposite way. Which way is correct?


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## leon1.8turbo (Jun 29, 2017)

Hello everyone! I have done the n249/sai/pcv delete the only thing I left is the evap. When cutting the combi valve lines I cut one more extra line that goes from the evap to the turbo inlet pipe. Capped off the hose that goes to the tip and now my evap vacuum is going only to the inlet manifold with a factory check valve. Now the ticking of the purge valve sounds diffrent. The way I understand it now when my IM is under vacuum the evap is working like it is supposed to but when the IM is under pressure the evap is sealed. Does this damages the evap? Do I have to reconnect the line that goes to the TIP or I can leave it capped? Thank you in advance!


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## Dropped Metal Customs (Feb 2, 2011)

*Rough idle after delete?*

Might be in need of some help, I now have a very rough idle and will cut out and die after this delete, I'm hoping it's just a leak in the system with so many new hoses and joints etc, i have not put the resistors in as I'm planning on getting the stage2 tune! do I need the resistors until I get the tune with the software? off topic but I also took the time to clean the intercooler as I've read about oil building up in there, the sensor screws had rusted so bad the head just sheered off the first one so I just left it on and blasted it with parts cleaner! If I damaged the intercooler sensor would that cause the same rough idle and die?
Engine bay looks much cleaner now and I found some cracks and splits in some of the stock rubber hoses I removed, I'll go over the new hose connections tomorrow and tigten everything.

Any help much appreciated


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## EJVR6 (Feb 6, 2017)

Amazing DIY.
Probably one of the best I have come across!

Thank you!


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## GT-Volks (Mar 20, 2012)

*Thanks man!!*

:wave:
DANG!!...it's been a LONG time since I've posted
I'm in the process of doing the delete on my '03 GLS 1.8T (AWP)
Seems to be going alright...waiting on the resistors and I've gotta go get the hoses in order
THANK YOU FOR YOUR DILLIGENCE IN CREATING THIS THREAD....:beer::beer::beer:


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## TheFog (Mar 17, 2005)

Has anyone done the same on BJX engine from polo gti 9n3?


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## trykt8 (Sep 22, 2014)

:beer::beer:


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## Dave Brabant (Sep 4, 2017)

On awd engine the hoses leaving the throttle body has a t connecter circling the engine bay going down to the turbo housing what do I do about that 😕


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## kdc29029 (Oct 12, 2013)

Can the pcv hose be flipped? Can the T be off the valve cover and just run a single hose to the oil crankcase? It would benefit me because my catch cans closer to the top of the valve cover then the oil breather. There all connected i wouldn't think it matters where the t is in the house


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## [email protected] (Sep 12, 2019)

*this works for the AMB ENGINE also*

i got a AMB engine out a 02 or 03 audi for my 01 jetta , had to take every thing audi off , install everthing vw back on the AMB engine. and so far evrything is good to go , oh still need a tuned. Did the delete and felt the need to report to this forum . thank you


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

could someone clarify something for me please

the line that's installed from the valve cover to the oil cooler and t'd off to the catch can

what's coming from the oil cooler?? why would those three component be connected


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

Ok so after doing the removal or hoses I now see the hose at the top or the oil cooler is just the crankcase breather. I also see it's a complete piece or garbage.

https://www.urotuning.com/products/crankcase-breather-hose-tube-1-8t-06a103213f

Is there an aftermarket upgrade? I know the 034 kit replaces this part which is great but the kitcisnt useful when doing all the deletes in this thread.....correct? I tried to ask if any of the kit would still be useful but never got a response. Dont see how it would be though.


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## Pbird (Mar 11, 2017)

Has anybody done this to the awv engine in the new beetle?

I'm having trouble following it seeing that my set up is a little different.


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## Swaggypmk4 (May 8, 2020)

Any way you gets the parts, send them to my address and I PayPal or cash app?😂


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## 01_audi_TacoTruck (Feb 3, 2021)

I just went through all 800 posts in this thread and didn’t see anyone say if this works on the AMU engine or not... can anyone verify or deny?


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

Is it a1.8t......

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## 01_audi_TacoTruck (Feb 3, 2021)

Vegeta Gti said:


> Is it a1.8t......
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yessir it is


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## MiltDoggie (Jun 30, 2020)

01_audi_TacoTruck said:


> Yessir it is


then it will work


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

^^^^^

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Dwaters25 (Jun 23, 2021)

So the last part about the 4 plugs you have to use the resistors on. Are you jumping a resistor from 1 plug to another then that plug and another resistor to the other plug and so work?!


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

You would be putting a resistor across each connector/circuit to create a false signal to the DME









SAI / EVAP Resistor Kit 5 piece N75 N80 N112 N249 VVT MK4 1.8T, B5 2.7T, B6 1.8T


These resistors are made in-house by Carrot Top Tuning. Use these to delete your SAI/EVAP/N75/VVT systems on 1.8T and 2.7T Engines. These are made simple "plug n play" for your factory harness. Easy remove and reinstall no special tools needed! Whats in the Package:4x Square Style (N112 Combi...




www.carrottoptuning.com


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## Dwaters25 (Jun 23, 2021)

vdubguy97 said:


> You would be putting a resistor across each connector/circuit to create a false signal to the DME
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Holly hell my man you are a life saver!! I'd definitely prefer to go with these over resistors!


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

i've read on other searches that you still need to have some sort of valve for the PVC system even when using a catch can?

someone was also mentioning something about needing a vacuum applied to the crankcase and head so that moisture would be drawn out?

i haven't finished up my catch can install so right now I'm venting my crank case and head via a hose to the air (ya don't drive the car very much) and have blocked off the port on my TIP


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## Walding (Aug 10, 2021)

Is this still a active post I can ask some follow up questions with?


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## USMCFieldMP (Jun 26, 2008)

Walding said:


> Is this still a active post I can ask some follow up questions with?


Just ask the questions...


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## sk8137 (Sep 13, 2021)

Hello, I have a few questions and any advice would be much appreciated. First time working on a car, but I've done all of the deletes more or less according to the guide on my 1.8t AUQ Leon. I've been driving the car for a couple of days with no issues or CEL yet. Don't seem to be having any vacuum leaks either and boost seems appropriate.

1. I didn't cap the EVAP line behind the coolant tank that goes into the N80 (I have only one), because I was told it should be vented to relieve excess pressure. I'm still not sure what the difference is if it's capped or not.
2. No CEL, but VCDS pulls code P0441-35-00 Incorrect Flow. I ordered ready to plug resistors from bar-tek, but the oval N80 one didn't clip in, so I just used a regular 330/10 for that, and also the SAI pump connector. This is the only code I have. Is this to be expected? I thought I was supposed to get a different code for the SAI pump instead.
3. Should I be expecting any issues with the catch can in the winter the way it's mounted? I read online that there shouldn't be any low points in the hoses, but I couldn't figure out how to do it better. I also used both a T and an additional 90 degree elbow, because the catch can inlet hose was kinking awkwardly with only the T. Excuse the mess in the image, I couldn't remove the SAI pump, and just have it's hoses zip tied away from the fans for now. It's disconnected otherwise.










The P0441 code worries me the most, even though the car is running great for now.


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## Djordje1 (Jan 31, 2021)

Hi everyon,
thank you very much for a nice explanation. This is a very interesting post I have a couple of questions about different setups and I would like to hear from you your thoughts.


Here we can see the evolution of tt built and in the first examples, it's a lot of stuff going on. I'm not really sure but looks very messy... MAF,diverter valve,Crankcase Vent Valve(hockey puck)










and then very simple and clean solutions without MAF,diverter valve,Crankcase Vent Valve(hockey puck) also I'm not sure is it there any blow off? What's going on here? Can anyone explain both pictures with simple overdraw???
Also, where is the going outlet of the catch can? Back into the intake?









and then we are having totally different setup with air filters on the top and two custom holes on the rocker cover also there is a third pipe intno catch can.He said that is going to crankcase oil breather.What's happening here there is also no any blow off or diverted valve.Very clean setup as well.


















I would be more than happy to understaind what's going on,because I preparing some project and it's very important for me to understand correctly what is the best options in my case.

Cheers!
Djordje


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

There is a gagillion ways to run your catch can, evap, blah blah. Whole point is not to have oil in your intake however you want to do it. To me less is more so I deleted all that $hit.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)




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## BoostedHatchback (Jun 21, 2020)

I used a catch can kit from 034 motorsport. It has a return line back to the oil pan so I never have to drain it. I still use the hockey puck, some say it helps pull vapors through the can. It has worked great so far, my FMIC stays as dry as can be expected.

Here is a link:








Catch Can Breather Kit, MkIV Volkswagen Golf/Jetta/GTI/GLI 1.8T


This complete recirculating catch can breather kit for the MkIV Volkswagen 1.8T offers bolt-in installation for stock applications and modified cars alike. Featuring our 034Motorsport "Vortex" breather can, this kit upgrades the factory PCV system to better separate oil vapor from crankcase...




store.034motorsport.com







Big_Tom said:


> View attachment 148118


Nice setup. Do you get that hot oil smell with your valve cover venting to atmosphere like that?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Nah never in this car. Been sending it like that since I went BT


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## USMCFieldMP (Jun 26, 2008)

There are a lot of benefits to maintaining the PCV system and having a vacuum pulled on the crankcase. Especially on high boost, high horsepower cars.

I ran a VTA system for a couple years when I first went big turbo, but won't ever do it again.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

USMCFieldMP said:


> I ran a VTA system for a couple years when I first went big turbo, but won't ever do it again.


Why?

Venting to atmosphere is perfectly fine. No need to return to pre throttle unless emissions is an issue


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## USMCFieldMP (Jun 26, 2008)

vdubguy97 said:


> Why?
> 
> Venting to atmosphere is perfectly fine. No need to return to pre throttle unless emissions is an issue


Maintaining the PCV system has very little to do with emissions and basically everything to do with engine health. Pulling a vacuum in the crankcase helps the piston rings, valve seals, and various other components. This is even more important as a boosted engine ages and starts having issues with blow-by; which on a VTA system, will start to blow oily air out of the filter and essentially coat everything in the engine bay with an oily film (speaking from experience). Running VTA can increase the acidity of your oil, as well.

A PCV system can be plumbed into the exhaust if you prefer not to have the fumes and oily air sucked back into the intake (or just use a quality separator/catch can). This shouldn't be done if you're running a cat or resonator/muffler, as the oil can accumulate there and cause a fire.

Look into any racecar running in DTM, IMSA, WRC, WEC, F1, etc... you'll find that they all run PCV systems designed to maintain crankcase vacuum. And technically, there is power to be gained by having a proper PCV system because of an decrease in windage.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

@USMCFieldMP 

I guess I should have been more direct with the why question. I was asking why you personally don’t like VTA?

Its always interesting hearing different peoples experience and reasons. Personally been running VTA for 10+ years with 30psi @450whp and have very minimal or any excess oil in the can. Been doing black stone oil analysis for 5+ years and have never had a concerning report.

I get the vacuum idea on the backside of the rings but personally don’t think it’s worth it for a street/track warrior, to each there own…
🍺


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## USMCFieldMP (Jun 26, 2008)

That was really my personal experience combined with the information that I came across through searching for solutions, speaking with other racers/engineers, etc. A lot of my experience comes from a GM engine that did NOT like being VTA... but, to be fair, the ventilation on that engine was grossly undersized from the factory, so the OE vent ports was BARELY adequate in factory form. Either way, my choice is informed by seeing what happens when ventilation is inadequate.

When I bought my Viper, it actually already had a VTA catch can setup. I haven't had issues with it and the can stays pretty dry, but it is on my list of things to change.


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

@USMCFieldMP In my experience each engine/manufacture is slightly different which causes this dilemma of who is is right.

Whatever works seems to be the best approach. 🍺


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## Bhish71 (11 mo ago)

Hi can you message me the prices for my beetle to delete all of it please


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

Bhish71 said:


> Hi can you message me the prices for my beetle to delete all of it please


No


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## MiltDoggie (Jun 30, 2020)

vdubguy97 said:


> No


lmao


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## MiltDoggie (Jun 30, 2020)

Bhish71 said:


> Hi can you message me the prices for my beetle to delete all of it please


If you're desperate for a kit, Cloude9Customs in the UK makes one



https://cloude9customs.com/product/1-8-turbo-catch-can-kits/



But literally for less than 75 pounds you'll be able to piece together a kit. All you need is;
Catch can, from eBay or Creationsmotorsport
3/4 inch Hoses, just make sure it's oil compatible 
3/4 inch T-piece, plastic is fine
Some vacuum lines (I used 4mm for the DV and FPR lines, 10mm for the EVAP to TIP and 12mm for the brake booster, IIRC)
8mm rubber block off plug, for plugging a nipple under the intake manifold
EGR Valve block off plate which you can find for 10 pounds at CreationsMotorsport
Hose clamps
Zip Ties

N112 & N249 sensors you can leave plugged in to avoid a CEL. Funnily enough I never got a CEL when leaving the SAI unplugged.

Or if you're reeeeeally desperate just message Chris at TuningTechnics on Instagram, he'll be able to do the whole delete for ya and even a remap if you're interested. He knows his stuff about 1.8T engines, he's also located in the UK.


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## Zrxkalel (May 11, 2021)

Few years behind here.. in regards to the resistors and the CEL. 
If I solder in the resistors, and clear the codes with vag com.. do they come back? 
I currently have 


17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80) 
P1426 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) 
P1432 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) 
P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

if I do resistors and clear codes will those codes stay gone...


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## jdfelosi (Dec 31, 2021)

Ordered the kit and got one oval and 2 square, said oval for n80 and square for n249 and combi valve. My n249 has an oval plug not square, thought that was odd.


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## jdfelosi (Dec 31, 2021)

For clarification when it says combi valve, does it mean the n112 or the actual combi valve, haven’t gotten down to it yet. If it’s the n112 that one is oval too.


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## hueyg60 (Sep 27, 2010)

I need to do this asap. Are the kits still available?


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## vdubguy97 (Sep 13, 2003)

hueyg60 said:


> I need to do this asap. Are the kits still available?











SAI / EVAP Resistor Kit 5 piece N75 N80 N112 N249 VVT MK4 1.8T, B5 2.7T, B6 1.8T


These resistors are made in-house by Carrot Top Tuning. Use these to delete your SAI/EVAP/N75/VVT systems on 1.8T and 2.7T Engines. These are made simple "plug n play" for your factory harness. Easy remove and reinstall no special tools needed! Whats in the Package:4x Square Style (N112 Combi...




www.carrottoptuning.com


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## jdfelosi (Dec 31, 2021)

been working on doing this to my 02 beetle turbo s for the past few days. A few notes:
i got the kit from ebay with the catch can
the kit showed a mounting bracket for the catch can, it wasn't included, seller only put in a strut bar mount which is worthless for a beetle
the resistors that came with it, 1 oval 2 square, my beetle even though its an AWP engine looked more like the AWD layout
all three on mine were oval (piersburg)
The brake booster liine on mine did not have a check valve in the location it showed in that guide, i added one when i put it back together
on mine the brake booster line went to a vacum pump thing on the manifold.
other than that it went pretty smooth.


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## hueyg60 (Sep 27, 2010)

vdubguy97 said:


> SAI / EVAP Resistor Kit 5 piece N75 N80 N112 N249 VVT MK4 1.8T, B5 2.7T, B6 1.8T
> 
> 
> These resistors are made in-house by Carrot Top Tuning. Use these to delete your SAI/EVAP/N75/VVT systems on 1.8T and 2.7T Engines. These are made simple "plug n play" for your factory harness. Easy remove and reinstall no special tools needed! Whats in the Package:4x Square Style (N112 Combi...
> ...


Thanks, but the OP was doing lines, fittings, and resistor kits and I wanted to be lazy and not have to chase all the parts down


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## USMCFieldMP (Jun 26, 2008)

hueyg60 said:


> Thanks, but the OP was doing lines, fittings, and resistor kits and I wanted to be lazy and not have to chase all the parts down


If you want to change the PCV lines, you can order the 034 kit. They're a little bit specific to the engine, so pay attention to that. I have one on my track car. Cleaner setup and the hoses will last longer than most off-the-shelf hosing when it comes to dealing with oil.









034Motorsport 1.8T Breather Hose Kit for 2001-up AWW/AWP Mk4 (Reinforced Silicone)


IMPORTANT Note: There is a Early (2001-2002) or Late (2003+) build split for this kit. The late model cars have an Auxiliary Check Valve Breather Hose that will be eliminated with this kit. The hose can be capped off with a supplied vacuum cap with the kit. In addition the late model kit has a...




www.urotuning.com













034Motorsport Breather Hose Kit | AMU Mk1 Audi TT 1.8T (Reinforced Silicone)


This complete silicone hose kit is designed to replace all of the crumbling plastic and rubber awfulness that is the factory breather hose system on Early Audi TT225 vehicles equipped with the AMU engine code. The 034Motorsport Billet PCV Check Valve is included in this kit! Replaces: Valve...




www.urotuning.com













034Motorsport Breather Hose Kit | AWD|ATC Mk4 1.8T (Reinforced Silicone)


This complete silicone hose kit is designed to replace all of the crumbling plastic and rubber awfulness that is the factory breather hose system. Replaces the following factory parts: Valve Cover Breather Hose - (06A 103 493BD) Valve Cover Breather Hose - (06A 103 221BR) Block to Intake...




www.urotuning.com


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## GermanPOS1.8T (Aug 26, 2019)

Having no vacuum at all on the PCV system causes the excess crankcase pressure to build up regardless of how or if you run the catch can setup. For example I haverun all -10AN -5/8 stainless with no recircc( hockey puck) (open -VTA) to atmosphere and I’ve blown the dipstick out using that config, I have since changed a few lines , adding the vacuum with a check valve to initiate the evacuation of built up crank case and valve cover pressure and also a return line from catch tank to oil pan and recirculating (hickey puck, I would suggest if removing Combivalve and SAI it’s a good idea to add aforementioned.


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

so crank case breather and head breather "T" together to a catch can, then that outlet goes to the TIP. is that correct?

where should the check valve go?

right now i just have the crank case and head breather venting to atmosphere but need to fix this setup


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## MiltDoggie (Jun 30, 2020)

jettag60 said:


> so crank case breather and head breather "T" together to a catch can, then that outlet goes to the TIP. is that correct?


Yes



jettag60 said:


> where should the check valve go?


I had whole PCV delete. I had a check valve in the 12mm vacuum line running to the brake booster. I only had 1 check valve in the whole system.

20k miles, roadtrips, hillclimbs, track days, 105F heat and no problem

Holds strong vacuum at idle


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## jettag60 (Nov 2, 2005)

ya that sounds like what my plan was going to be

so the vacuum from the intake, via catch can is what pulls the crank case and head vapor.


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## 13vex (9 mo ago)

so I did this entire delete, but I ran into issues when i was trying to mount my catch can, so I decided to just not include it. After I sealed all of my boost leaks (MAP sensor was ****ed and Dipstick wasnt on properly) the fuel trim shot up (P1128) and I started to burn oil. How important was that catch can? I can’t really put it anywhere In the engine bay comfortably so should I just return to the stock PCV setup? I also don’t understand how it even works. Is it supposed to create a vacuum in the crankcase? Or not? Why does sealing the system with just hoses ruin it? I’m utterly confused by the system.


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## USMCFieldMP (Jun 26, 2008)

13vex said:


> so I did this entire delete, but I ran into issues when i was trying to mount my catch can, so I decided to just not include it. After I sealed all of my boost leaks (MAP sensor was ****ed and Dipstick wasnt on properly) the fuel trim shot up (P1128) and I started to burn oil. How important was that catch can? I can’t really put it anywhere In the engine bay comfortably so should I just return to the stock PCV setup? I also don’t understand how it even works. Is it supposed to create a vacuum in the crankcase? Or not? Why does sealing the system with just hoses ruin it? I’m utterly confused by the system.


A catch can isn't going to make that kind of difference. I would check the routing on everything to ensure connections and your routing of hoses is correct.


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## MiltDoggie (Jun 30, 2020)

13vex said:


> so I did this entire delete, but I ran into issues when i was trying to mount my catch can, so I decided to just not include it. After I sealed all of my boost leaks (MAP sensor was ****ed and Dipstick wasnt on properly) the fuel trim shot up (P1128) and I started to burn oil. How important was that catch can? I can’t really put it anywhere In the engine bay comfortably so should I just return to the stock PCV setup? I also don’t understand how it even works. Is it supposed to create a vacuum in the crankcase? Or not? Why does sealing the system with just hoses ruin it? I’m utterly confused by the system.


Do you have a check valve in the system?

You can delete the PCV system without a catch can, I did it to pass SMOG (install, drive 10 min and back 10 min). Car drove perfectly fine...

I drove with the PCV system deleted as if I were running a catch can, but without the catch can. So all that crap was dumping right into my intake but it was only a 20 min drive of feathering the throttle...

Is your N249 still plugged in electronically? Unplugging the N249 electronically will mess up the fuel trims


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## SakisTheDrifter (7 mo ago)

I did this on my Seat Leon with the APP engine. 2 days have passed,i did around 50km and it works normally. Can you add that engine on the list with success? Some people will probably need it. Thank you


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## NolanG (Jan 20, 2013)

13vex said:


> so I did this entire delete, but I ran into issues when i was trying to mount my catch can, so I decided to just not include it. After I sealed all of my boost leaks (MAP sensor was ****ed and Dipstick wasnt on properly) the fuel trim shot up (P1128) and I started to burn oil. How important was that catch can? I can’t really put it anywhere In the engine bay comfortably so should I just return to the stock PCV setup? I also don’t understand how it even works. Is it supposed to create a vacuum in the crankcase? Or not? Why does sealing the system with just hoses ruin it? I’m utterly confused by the system.












Gold Engine bay: with a battery relocate, mounted up from for atmospheric venting from headlight velocity stack. 

But if your battery is in the engine bay, make a small “L” bracket and mount to the bottom battery tray. Still have adequate ventilation for the atmospheric filter from the front grill passage. 


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## NolanG (Jan 20, 2013)

NolanG said:


> Gold Engine bay: with a battery relocate, mounted up from for atmospheric venting from headlight velocity stack.
> 
> But if your battery is in the engine bay, make a small “L” bracket and mount to the bottom battery tray. Still have adequate ventilation for the atmospheric filter from the front grill passage.
> 
> ...













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dismal (Jan 13, 2006)

Having an issue with high crankcase pressure (dancing oil cap) with this installed:








Ultimate IE Plus SAi | N249 | PCV | EVAP Delete Kit | Mk4 1.8T


Combining our SAI delete kit with Integrated Engineering's top of the line Catch Can Kit we have taken the trouble out of piecing your own kit together for your MK4 Golf/Jetta 1.8T. This kit features the IE proven catch can with internal baffles, along with custom nylon braided -10AN hoses...




www.urotuning.com





Should I just pull the VTA filter and route it into the TIP with a check valve?

Also, will be swapping to a GT28RS in the very near future, so I'm also looking to get everything properly plumbed once the TIP is gone.


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## z0rd1 (4 mo ago)

Hello guys.

Since the images aren't available anymore, anyone got the .pdf that the OP said in the first post? I will start it soon in my 1.8t


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## NolanG (Jan 20, 2013)

z0rd1 said:


> Hello guys.
> 
> Since the images aren't available anymore, anyone got the .pdf that the OP said in the first post? I will start it soon in my 1.8t








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## Polo 9n3 king (3 mo ago)

nstevic01 said:


> Thanks! Took forever, but it feels good to have it done.


I would like to purchase a kit from yourself if this is still available


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