# New weber 16v project- help appreciated



## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

Hey all, just got my carb project going. As of now I have in my living room weber 40's, Carter fuel pump, msd 6al, msd coil, various jets, air synchronizer, the rubber isolation mounts from red line, and a wide band setup. The last time I did anything with carbs was on an old snowmobile in high school so I'm sure I'll be asking around here a lot. First question is there anything else obvious that I am forgetting? Just wanted to share some pics for now:thumbup: 

















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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

To me it looks as though you have pretty much everything you'll need at least for now. 

You may want to pick up a fuel pressure regulator for low pressure, high volume applications. I only suggest it because there is various information floating around from place to place, on here, and in the Weber manuals as to what fuel pressure to run. I've read from 2 to 4 psi is what Webers like and I'm pretty sure the carter pumps between 4 and 6 psi.


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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

Ok thanks for the response... What fpr seems to work for everybody? Also, what size fuel lines? Seems like everything is about 1/4'' id 

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## dougkehl (Nov 30, 2011)

I use a Malpasi Filter King fpr. It looks like this









It has a filter built into it and I also have a pressure gauge inline with it so I know where I'm at. It's adjustable from 1 to 6 psi.

I also use 5/16" I.D. line


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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

Ya that looks like a great idea... I'll have to pick one up

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## L33t A2 (Aug 5, 2003)

*FV-QR*

first step, grind bolt head clearances and then find 8 different types of hardware to fit the weber manifold to the cylinder head
looks like a good assortment of parts there, good luck with it


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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

It looks to me like the manifold has already been machined so the hardware will sit flush... I'm pretty sure I will have to shorten the studs that the carbs attach to but that's easy

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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

Finally put the 16v in today and checked to see how things fit... Only problem I can see is the water neck coming from the front of the block... I have an abf water neck but it doesn't seem to line up with any of the line coming from the top of the oil filter mount... Any suggestions? 

Here's a pic of the abf water neck hitting the top of the oil filter mount... 









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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

you ditch the oil to coolant heat exchanger. Use a hose for a 1.8 8V from the pump to the outlet. Use a Ford water pump plug to block off the unused nipple on the steel line.

PMO makes a great regulator for under 100bux with a gauge.

The mainfolds are kinda an interference fit. You have to:

carefully clearance around the top studs for nut clearance on cylinder 1 &2

I have used 6mm flanged nuts (10mm wrench with sides ground thinner for fit) drilled and tapped the nuts to 8mm but difficult to get them to turn out because the nut is so thin it doesn't want to tap straight so you may have to do a few. I dont use washers on the 2 bad studs cause its too tight already.

On the other studs I use an aircooled 8mm nut that is made for a 7/16 wrench. These are available from CB Perfromance, Gene Berg Ebay, etc. I grind the washer sides flat to fit the "cuts" in the intake.

I found it best to mount the intake on the ends of the studs, start the "special" nuts on 1&2, start the other nuts, then allow the nuts to move the intake into place as you tighten them down. I use the cut 10mm wrench and red loctite on 1&2, the rest are pretty normal. This is not something you want coming loose and it takes work to get it all tight.

The weber carb studs were crap. I ordered some longer studs from Vics Fiat online, then cut them down to what I needed. I used nyloc nuts to hold the carbs. Next time they come off I will replace the plastic isolators with Thackery washers. I like the borg Warner type mounts but the Weber stuff will work fine.

If you take out the brass fitting for brake vaccum and replace it with a 90 degree fitting before you put all the stuff on you will not wish you had later. Once mounted, there is not room to screw in a 90 degree fitting because of the head.


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## Montrocco (Nov 9, 2009)

Check that manifold really well, 

I had the displeasure of using it as well and if yours is anywhere near the quality of the one I received, it will require extensive gasket matching on the carb side. Mine had the ports shrouded by about 3/16 behind each carb. 

Might as well do like I did and just port it all the way through then. You will have 1/2 of the work done already, only left for you to blend and smooth


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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

Ya my manifold is not perfect either... Once I get to that stage I'll be cleaning the runners and gasket matching 

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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

Oh yea they def need a touch of work as well.


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## bignate948 (Jan 16, 2006)

antichristonwheels said:


> you ditch the oil to coolant heat exchanger. Use a hose for a 1.8 8V from the pump to the outlet. Use a Ford water pump plug to block off the unused nipple on the steel line.


 more info on this ford water pump plug?


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## antichristonwheels (Jun 14, 2001)

any parts store "Help" products section. looks like a rubber stopper that cavers the end of a pipe. just put it on the nipple and use the factory blue hose clamp.


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## Montrocco (Nov 9, 2009)

Have a look at the pics below from my project, I think we have pretty much the same basic hardware/ fitment issues. Let me know if you want any specifics. I used DHLA 45's because that's what I could afford at the time. Good luck! 

Oh yeah, +1 on the PMO pressure master, that's what I used as you can see in the pics, $100, you get to keep your cis pumps, setup, filter and still $40 less than a Malpassi filter king and 1/2 the problems


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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

wow that looks like a super clean setup...why did you choose to run the fuel lines from the drivers side? I am planning on running fuel lines into the bay on the passenger side and making some sort of bracket to attach the fpr and then run the lines right into the carbs. thank you for the feedback!


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## Montrocco (Nov 9, 2009)

eod69usn said:


> wow that looks like a super clean setup...why did you choose to run the fuel lines from the drivers side? I am planning on running fuel lines into the bay on the passenger side and making some sort of bracket to attach the fpr and then run the lines right into the carbs. thank you for the feedback!


This is originally a CIS car so my fuel lines were already on the drivers side. I'm using the stock CIS fuel pumps with a PMO pressure master, all I did was buy some M14.4 to -6 and M12.5 x -6 fittings si i could bold right up to my existing lines since the PMO is a bypass type FPR. If your car is CIS, that setup is a much simpler one as it retains everything stock by the gas tank. Porsche guys going cis to carbs have been doint it this way for years. It's cheaper than changing pumps, modifying the lines and installing a good regulator say like malpassi filter king IMHO. With the money you saved, you can do your fuel lines all in SS braided with AN fittings 

That being said, there is nothing stopping you from cutting the lines at the firewall on the passenger side if you're running a low pressure pump and no return lineulator reg and piping it like you mentionned above.


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## Montrocco (Nov 9, 2009)

oh yeah i forgot an importat detail: my setup allows / uses my stock cis fuel filter which is a high quality, cheap and very efficient filter, the pics don't show this well but you can see it on thedrivers side in the stock location. chher


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## eod69usn (Jul 4, 2009)

Ok thanks for the info... When I got my setup it was from somebodies project that didn't end up coming together. So I got everything all together, and I got a Carter fuel pump so that's the route I would like to go, mounting the Carter pump underneath with just a fpr someplace in the engine bay

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