# Golf Mk.IV park brake problem



## matthew01 (Aug 5, 2010)

I've got a problem with the park brake on my MK.IV Golf - the lever arm on the back of the caliper does not return to the released position. I assume there's some sort of spring inside the caliper that returns the mechanism and the cable when the handle is released??? Is it user serviceable or replaceable, or will a whol new caliper subassembly be needed???


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Disconnect the parking brake cable to see if the cable is seized. If the problem is not being caused by the cable, then you have to replace the caliper. The parking brake mechanism in the MKIII/MKIV rear calipers is not user serviceable (no parts available).


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

I also have a 2002.5 mK4 GTI. 
The parking brake actuator arm on one side does not return all the way to the end stop plate like it does on the other side. It stops about 8mm short of the stop plate. The compensator bracket at the e-brake under the center console is twisted about 5 degrees to match. The actuator arms for the parking brake have about the same amount of travel when I pull the e-brake off and on. 
I recently replaced the pads and rotors and after I changed them there was a little drag on the back wheels which I understand to be normal. The car rolls on the slightest slope with the e-brake off so I'm not worried about drag. The ebrake sets completely with about 4-5 clicks (5 if I pull up hard). I don't hear any rubbing from the brakes under motion with the e-brake off and I stop in a straight line with no vibration when I slam the anchors on. So, on the face of it despite the offset in the arm everything seems to work ok. 
I'm wondering if I maybe did not retract the piston on one side quite as far as the other one - is this a possible scenario here? I didn't have any problem on either side refitting the calipers and new pads over the new rotors. 
My only other concern here is when I replaced the old pads that on one side of the rear the inner pad was worn a good bit more than all the other pads, I assumed at the time that maybe the floating calipers had stuck or jammed. When I had the caliper off I made sure there was plenty of grease and that the calipers moved easily on the guide pin. Anyway, I wouldn't have checked the actuator arm positions if the OP hadn't posted his question. I guess my question is what to do now if anything at all? I don't want to have to replace the caliper if everything is working fine despite the offset in position. 
The last set of pads lasted 85000 miles (8 years) and I could have probably got another 10-20K out of them even with the one being more worn.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

I'd say that you're due for a replacement caliper.


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## radrabt (Oct 13, 2008)

I think im having a similar problem. I put new pads about 6 months ago and have had no problems at all. For the past few days when i leave for work in the mornjng, i back out and hear the rears howl just a tad. I figured it was just mousture on the rotors from sitting outside over night. A couple days ago i was sitting in a drive through and brake light came on and is now staying on. It feels like they are dragging when im driving now. Im about to chech out the e brake cable when i get to work.


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## radrabt (Oct 13, 2008)

So i tried to limp it to work and the left rear started smoking. So i pulled into a lot and pulled the wheel off. The ebrake cable looked to be fully released on the left side but on the right side it looked like it was not fully released. But only the left rotor was smoking and is now blue. So i pulled the cable off and the e brake lever seems like it is moving freely. Then i pulled the caliper off and i can spin the piston with a pair of needle nose but cannot compress it. But i also now that they take alot of force to compress. The slides are also greased and move freely. Should i replace this caliper? Im currently stranded on the side of the road with only a 13mm socket and socket wrench and needle nosed plyers and an auto parts store across the street. How ironic.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Did you forget to completely release the parking brake when you left home? 

What I would have done to try to diagnose the problem is: wait till it cooled, leaving the rear brakes assembled. Then, put a rock under the right side wheels, and jack up the left side of the car. Release the parking brake and check to see if the left rear brake is still dragging badly. Is not, then go into the car, and should your right foot to step on the brake pedal firmly Leaving your body and left foot outside the car. Then take your right foot off the brake, quickly step the left rear of the car, and try to spin the wheel to see if the brake caliper is dragging. A dragging brake could be a defective parking brake cable (which you say is fine), a defective caliper (corroded parking brake or caliper piston is seizing), or clogged brake lines (check by stepping on the brake then releasing to see of the caliper released).


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## bassep (Apr 11, 2010)

I stopped by my VW mechanic this morning (not the stealership) and explained the situation with my calipers - one actuator arm is on the end stop on the left side and the right side one is 8mm away. He told me that the actuator arm should *not* release all the way to the endstop it should be about 8mm or so away. So, the one I thought was wrong is actually correct. He told me the cables need to be adjusted at the compensator to equalize the tilt on the compensator bar - there are 2 nuts attached to the cable to achieve this. Anyway, I'm going to stop by in a couple of days and he'll check the caliper out. I'll let y'all know the outcome.


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## radrabt (Oct 13, 2008)

I replaced the left rear caliper that was dragging. Its still dragging and the e brake light is still on. I took the e brake cable off and the light was still on. I put the e brake cable on and it was loose enough to willgle at the caliper and at the e brake handle. Im wondering if maybe a brake line is collapsed allowing fluid to flow away from the master cylinder but not towards it. I need some brake experts help here.


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## germancarnut51 (Mar 23, 2008)

Probably not collapsing, probably rubber hose attached to the caliper is swollen internally, OR smashed metal brakeline under the car between the master cylinder and the brake caliper. Disconnect the rubber hose at the caliper, and watch to see if the fluid gravity bleeds (leaks at a high rate). If not, then disconnect the rubber hose where it attaches to the metal line to see if it will flow. 

Crawl under the car and check for flattened metal brake lines from the front. 

If you have ABS, you could have a defective ABS Pump.


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