# high mileage synthetic oil



## DjBij099 (Jul 21, 2003)

Hi everyone. I'm going to be changing my oil in the next and I'm going to use Mobil 1. I don't use anything else. I'm going to use 10w40, but the only 10w40 that comes in mobil 1 is high mileage oil. Now, the head portion of my motor has roughly 50K miles on it now. The bottom end is unknown. The high mileage is good for over 75K. Would it be ok to still use this or would I end up destroying the motor?


----------



## Deadzero2005 (Apr 13, 2006)

Got to give more specs on the motor 1.8t, 16v 2.0L, etc. Also, it would be nice to know what type of oil was used before the replacement of the head and stuff. 

As far as I know, High Mileage is not a "100%" true synthetic. There has always been theories about not going back to Dino from synthetic and visa versa. If you have been using Dino oil for a long period of time it tends to leave deposits around the seals. Once you switch to synthetic you might get leaks around those seals due to synthetics being a "thinner" oil as well as chemicals (additives or whatever you call them) help dislodge the deposits. But that is what I read up on somewhere on the web....might have been from Bob is the Oil guy.


----------



## DjBij099 (Jul 21, 2003)

Deadzero2005 said:


> Got to give more specs on the motor 1.8t, 16v 2.0L, etc. Also, it would be nice to know what type of oil was used before the replacement of the head and stuff.
> 
> As far as I know, High Mileage is not a "100%" true synthetic. There has always been theories about not going back to Dino from synthetic and visa versa. If you have been using Dino oil for a long period of time it tends to leave deposits around the seals. Once you switch to synthetic you might get leaks around those seals due to synthetics being a "thinner" oil as well as chemicals (additives or whatever you call them) help dislodge the deposits. But that is what I read up on somewhere on the web....might have been from Bob is the Oil guy.


 It's a 1.8 16V. After the head got built, the owner used 5w30 castrol syntec blend. I'm switching to 10w40 because I think it is the best all year round oil for me. I don't drive the car in winter and I really don't drive it below 40 degree weather. Plus the summers here in the midwest work there way up to high 90s. I currently use the car as a daily, but when the weather starts to get warmer, it will be used for drag racing, autocrossing, and road racing. :thumbup:


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

Everything I have read is that Mobile 1 motor oil is essentially only good for low emissions. It has a very low zinc content which is needed for bearing protection. After the last thing I saw about it (Mobile 1), I will never use this oil ever. Dino Valvoline is better than Mobile 1 for your car, IMHO.


----------



## nuskool (Jun 19, 2007)

READ YOUR MANUAL! It tells you specifically what to use. It's more than just viscosity that you need to be concerned with. 

You need VW spec oil. I use Amsoil. While not on the official VW list as an approved oil, it is never the less formulated to the VW spec. 

There aren't actually that many to choose from in the stores here in the states.


----------



## slowbluVW (Oct 15, 2002)

You could run the M1 HM, I doubt it would cause any problems. Guys have been running non-VW spec oils in VW engines without any issues. Case in point is the large group of owners that run Shell Rotella T6 5W40 in just about all flavors of VWs gas burners-none of them have had engine issues. I ran Rotella T6 in mine for 65,000 miles before I switched to M1 0W40. Personally, the VW specs are BS and just force you to buy certain oil(s). If you want the performance of M1 and have to have the VW specs, run the M1 0W40.


----------



## rickjaguar (Apr 23, 2009)

VWs and Audis of the 80s run with high oil pressure and a lot of them recommend 15w40. If it were my decision i'd stay in that weight for conventional oil but if you switch to synthetic a 10w40 or 5w40 would probably not cause any issues.


----------



## m3ga81 (Dec 4, 2010)

dont mean to thread jack...but how u guys feel about oil stablelizer


----------



## biggs88 (Mar 6, 2011)

ps2375 said:


> Everything I have read is that Mobile 1 motor oil is essentially only good for low emissions. It has a very low zinc content which is needed for bearing protection. After the last thing I saw about it (Mobile 1), I will never use this oil ever. Dino Valvoline is better than Mobile 1 for your car, IMHO.


Full of fail.


Zinc is not the only thing to consider. And it is not needed in high amounts for proper bearing protection.

High Zinc levels in oil has it's places. Flat tappet cams YEARS ago may benefit from a higher zinc level. But what you are missing is, what is lost by less zinc is added with other additives and better base stock oils.

High levels of Zinc in todays cars also *can* clog the cat converters with extended use.

Mobil 1 oil has the worlds biggest company behind it. It has a research and development department second only to Nasa basically. It has more OEM specs and is the factory fill to more high end automobiles than any other oil. 

And your not going to use it cause IYHO, " Dino Valvoline is better than Mobile 1"!?!?!?!


Im sorry, but you do not know what your talking about. Is Mobil 1 the best oil out there? No. There is no "best oil". Mobil 1 is a very good oil and you will get just as much life out of your engine on it, than any other synthetic oil.


----------



## biggs88 (Mar 6, 2011)

m3ga81 said:


> dont mean to thread jack...but how u guys feel about oil stablelizer


Zero. None. Not one reason EVER to use a "stablelizer" in any of todays motor oils.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

biggs88 said:


> Full of fail.
> 
> 
> Zinc is not the only thing to consider. And it is not needed in high amounts for proper bearing protection.
> ...


What about the fact that Mobil 1 is not even legally considered a synthetic oil in Europe? It's a group 3 synthetic versus a group 4.


----------



## biggs88 (Mar 6, 2011)

doctorvw said:


> What about the fact that Mobil 1 is not even legally considered a synthetic oil in Europe? It's a group 3 synthetic versus a group 4.


o0o0o0o0o man. This again. . . . . .


Well, I assume you know what group oil means. The group is the BASE oil for those that do not. 

Group 3 is a hydrocracked oil derived from crude oil. It is made by men in white lab coats all the same. It goes through many processes and it is a very good base oil.

Group 4 is a base stock made with man made components. Then you have Group 5 made with ester (Redline, some Motul oils, ect. . .)

Now, as with ANYTHING, the base is not the only thing to consider. You have to take the additives, specs, flash points, HSTS, ect. . .

Mobil oils are mostly group 3. A lot of them are a mix or group 3 and 4. Mobil 1 0w40 is widely agreeded to be mostly if not all group 4 base oil.

Anyway Castrol syntec, pennzoil ultra and platnium, valvoline synpower, ect. . . are all made with group 3 oils. However, some are made with both 3 and 4.

The fact mobil 1, for the most part, is made of group 3 base oils does not take away from its overall quality.


----------



## doctorvw (Apr 7, 2011)

biggs88 said:


> o0o0o0o0o man. This again. . . . . .
> 
> 
> Well, I assume you know what group oil means. The group is the BASE oil for those that do not.
> ...


Ok this is good to hear. I'm thinking about switching to Mobil 1 0W-40 for the cold cold winter I have coming up this year. I think I'll get better cold starts with it than the Castrol Syntec 5W-40 I've got in there now. I'm looking at probably a few months of sub-freezing temps with a week or two of sub 0F (-18C) temps. I think it's probably best for the engine to put a 0W in there. So I'm thinking either Mobil 1 0W-40 or GC (Castrol Syntec 0W-30). What do you guys think?


----------



## biggs88 (Mar 6, 2011)

doctorvw said:


> Ok this is good to hear. I'm thinking about switching to Mobil 1 0W-40 for the cold cold winter I have coming up this year. I think I'll get better cold starts with it than the Castrol Syntec 5W-40 I've got in there now. I'm looking at probably a few months of sub-freezing temps with a week or two of sub 0F (-18C) temps. I think it's probably best for the engine to put a 0W in there. So I'm thinking either Mobil 1 0W-40 or GC (Castrol Syntec 0W-30). What do you guys think?


I will tell you right off the bat. The GC 0w30 is a GREAT oil and it is thinner (ever so slightly) in the cold weather compared to m1 0w40.

If I was at the north pole, and my selection was GC 0w30 or Mobil 1 0w40, I would take ow30.

Now, in canada, North USA, mobil 1 would work more than fine. While GC is better in zube zero temps, I and a lot of people feel mobil 1 0w40 is a MUCH better oil all together.

Many highly respected experts on this topic regard Mobil 1 0w40 as one of the best engine oils ever made. 

Look it up on goole and bobistheoilguy.com

But in all truth, any oil that MEETS the VW spec your car calls for will work GREAT.


----------



## Made in America (Apr 11, 2011)

ps2375 said:


> Everything I have read is that Mobile 1 motor oil is essentially only good for low emissions. It has a very low zinc content which is needed for bearing protection. After the last thing I saw about it (Mobile 1), I will never use this oil ever. Dino Valvoline is better than Mobile 1 for your car, IMHO.



Interesting. The recommended oil for Mercedes-Benz is Mobil 1 0w-40. Everything I have read about Mobil 1 is a very good oil. But most of my reading regarding oil comes from bobistheoilguy.com.


----------



## gmikel (Nov 10, 2010)

*mobil 1 10w-40 hm*

it is acea a3/b4. pretty good standard imo. most vw, bmw and mb oils are parallel in spec. i think they are name brands, but what do i know. their recommended earls are mostly a3/b4.


----------



## gmohenry (Jun 21, 2011)

*Pentosin synthetic oil references*

Hello VW_orld

Has anyone heard any comments (positives/negatives) about Pentosin 
High Performance II Motor Oil (5w-40)?

Thanks


----------

