# Replacing BOSE Concert stereo with aftermarket system



## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

After some digging, I found this great brochure, thought I'd share it again:

http://www.wak-tt.com/tt/Bose_Config.htm

I'm going to replace everything, new head unit, components in doors, 3 1/2" in rear and subwoofer. My question is, what do I do with the "centerfill" speaker in the dash? And I mean, should I try to use it or just ignore it. I assume, with a wiring harness, it will not be connected to the HU. IF I try to reconnect it, any idea where the wiring is/ what color? It's probably more trouble than it's worth but hey, why not ask?

Also, can anyone point me to the factory amp location? I assume I need to bypass the POS right?

:thumbup:


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## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

Oh and I have a 2002 225q roadster not a coupe.


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## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

BUMP

No ideas? About the center speaker or the Bose amp?


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## Vegas-RoadsTTer (Mar 17, 2013)

*Might have better response on the audio forum here or Quattroworld*

.


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## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

Ok I found the location, according to another website it is behind the rear passenger speaker. Someone did a decent write up on it, I don't want to post links to other forums but PM if you need it and I'll send a link.

Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate and MB Quart goodness is on it's way! I'll take pics of the install.


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## Mykal (Sep 7, 2012)

Govt-Cheese said:


> I don't want to post links to other forums


:screwy:
Post the damn link.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Govt-Cheese said:


> Ok I found the location, according to another website it is behind the rear passenger speaker. Someone did a decent write up on it, I don't want to post links to other forums but PM if you need it and I'll send a link.
> 
> Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate and MB Quart goodness is on it's way! I'll take pics of the install.


I LOVED my MB Quarts!

Post up the links. We need to start an "All things TT audio" thread. Too many of these threads keep popping up. We need something "stickied".


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## ModsTTand (Jul 8, 2009)

(Post up the links. We need to start an "All things TT audio" thread. Too many of these threads keep popping up. We need something* "stickied"*.)

I'm gathering information regarding the same topic , I concur ur suggestion Warrant


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I'm following this as well. I can't invest in a decent sound system just yet (and I may just replace my door speakers when all is said and done), but I've managed to get to every speaker in the car between taking out my headliner and replacing the heater core in my coupe.

By the way Govt-Cheese is a brilliant screen name. I f***in' love it.


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## becker780 (Apr 30, 2013)

I just did the system on my coupe. Im not using the dash tweeters. I put a new HU in and used the speaker pre outs for a 1000 watt 4 channel amp. then I just ran new speaker wires to the doors and rear panel speakers (alpine type s 6.5 inch, component in doors and coaxial in back)

sounds great, eventually another amp is going in with a sub or two. 

its so easy to pull the door panels, kick panels (where your hood latch is) and trim panels back. then pop the rear seat up and run your wires under it right into the trunk to said amp. run the speaker wire right through the door jam boots where your other door harnesses go through. 

just an idea but you could get more creative. 

also the alpine S 6.5 components bolted right into the door and the tweeters were super easy to put in where the OEMs were. 

whole thing took me two nights, taking my time soldering all connections and hiding all wiring.


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## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

Mykal said:


> :screwy:
> Post the damn link.


I have 2 now. 

Here's the first one I found, with amp location in roadster and a few pics:
http://www.audi-forums.com/1998-2006-audi-tt/53322-2001-audi-tt-roadster-sub-amp.html

Here's one I just found, a great page with lots of pics, you old timers probably know him:
http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/


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## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

lite1979 said:


> By the way Govt-Cheese is a brilliant screen name. I f***in' love it.


I "work" for the government, sometimes I feel like my paycheck is free cheese.


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## Govt-Cheese (Oct 13, 2009)

Ok so I'm in the middle of this install and tuning and the car broke down but I'll throw out some info. (Here's the thread of my TT not functioning: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-driving-hasn-t-started-for-8-hrs-please-help) I will include pics when I do a final write up.

One more reference I used, other than the ones above: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ose-Head-Unit-Radio-Install&highlight=speaker. It has a link to pIOUs' write up.

First off, I have a 02 TT with Bose Concert II with CD player in the dash. I purchased all my equipment from Sonic Electronix. Good prices but I had a lot of problems with them. First, they sent the wrong harness- they sent another one. Second, the harness that is "supposed" to go with it (Metra 70-1787) bypasses the HU internal amp and uses the Bose amp, by plugging into the new HU preamp outs and you need to have front and rear preamp (which my Pioneer DEH-X8500BS has). Next, the dimmer function and switched power in the factory unit are controlled by Audi's computers, so you need to run your own wires for this, not use the ones in the harness. I found out all of this by lots and lots of searching, that's why I wanted to put it all down here in hopes it will be easier to find. Another issue with this setup is, since you're using the Bose amp, the center dash speaker is still working. I may just find the signal out wire from the amp and cut it, I'm not even sure I'm going to keep the factory amp instead of running my own wires from the HU to the new speakers.

I installed Rockford Fosgate Punch speakers front and rear, 6 1/2" with tweeters in the door and 3 1/2" behind the seats. It didn't take much to remove the old ones and very little modification to install the new speakers (pics to come later). Then center speaker is louder than the RFs so I will probably disconnect it soon. The factory sub was another story. It wasn't functioning when I bought the car. I pulled it out, filled the cavity behind it with Dynamat and installed a 8" MB Quart in its location, being driven by a MB Quart 200 w amp in the trunk. At least, that was my intention: the wiring kit I purchased was also missing it's remote wire. That, and they ALSO included the wrong faceplate :banghead: and I ended up needing help from a local shop. Lucky for me, the installer had done some type of Audi and was familiar with these issues. They got the right faceplate, finished the sub install, ran the microphone and sat antenna for the head unit, so the install was done. Unfortunately, the flip down door hits the Pioneers volume knob :facepalm: Also, the sub sounded terrible in the factory mount (mounted to steel and plastic, not really an enclosure). I put a 12" sub in a truck box in the trunk, sounded great so I figured it was the enclosure. I ended up picking up an inexpensive MDF board 8" tube to mount the MB Quart in, it's short enough to sit front to back on one side of the trunk so I think I'll go with that (pictures when I'm done with everything).

I still need to figure out if I want to run the speakers off the HU instead of the Bose amp, I need to disconnect the center speaker and then permanently mount the sub and I should be done!


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

Thanks for the update. I know you didn't get much help here. But I found your info helpful. I will be tackling this in mine soon too. :beer:


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

warranty225cpe said:


> Thanks for the update. I know you didn't get much help here. But I found your info helpful. I will be tackling this in mine soon too. :beer:


As will I, whoever gets to it first should post a how to/DIY. Though, I am only installing a head unit.


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## warranty225cpe (Dec 3, 2008)

FatAce said:


> As will I, whoever gets to it first should post a how to/DIY. Though, I am only installing a head unit.


Im going to do it all eventually. But likely head unit first while I squirrel away speakers/ amps and what not. And I will be sound proofing the entire inside of the car. That will be the first big step. Still havent decided what Im going to use to deaden.


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## FatAce (Jan 30, 2012)

I'm going the exact same route, I will be using Dynamat. I pulled the rear seats because I intend to Dynamat shortly after Christmas. I also plan on making a custom rear seat delete and if I feel like going all out I will be incorporating sub boxes into the setup. I found 36 square feet of Dynamat on amazon for $130 which is relatively cheap for what it does. If you haven't yet pulled your rear seats and intend to, you'll notice ride noise is increased substantially.


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

[duplicate post deleted by author]


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## esoxlucios (Sep 17, 2009)

My solution for my TTCQ:

Replaced head unit with Pioneer MVH-P7300 w/ direct interface to iPhone and Pandora (uses DAC in head unit, rather than iPhone).

Replaced rear speakers with Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6.5" component system (externally mounted tweeters and woven glass woofers)

Replaced front door speakers with Boston Acoustics reference component system.

Replaced center speaker with a Bohlender Graebener Neo8 planar transducer, pictured below (requires a resister and cap to work properly)

Running the rear speakers is an MTX amplifier mounted alongside the Bose amp. The Bose amp continues to run the door speakers and front center speaker. 

Running subwoofer duties in the back (pictured below), I have a ten-inch Dayton Audio reference series sub and two JL Audio (W3 or W4, I forget which) 8 inch mid-subs. The subs are driven by a 4-channel Kenwood Excelon KAC-X542 amp, supplemented by a 1 Farad capacitor.

The two stereo Bose and MTX amps (four channels), one subwoofer channel, and mid-sub channel are all separately parametric EQ and DSP controlled by a Behringer Ultra-Drive Pro DCX2496 (uses a Monster Cable sin wave power inverter), seen in the picture below. This required me to tap directly into the line in signal for the factory Bose amp.

Alternator whine is reduced by a Newmar 150-A, directly inline between the alternator and car electrical system (the blue thing in the engine compartment, pictured below).










20v Master likes to criticize me for my vendor woes because I've entrusted some mechanical work to shops. Therefore, I'd like to point out that this system works very well, and I did all the research and installation myself.


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