# Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion...



## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

I think there should be a thread like this. There is tons of info on here, but no one seems to really agree. Lots of people could benefit from a thread like this....it's not totally seflish.


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## the12for12 (Jul 21, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (weg786)*

go ahead and start the thread. We're here to support the idea, kool?


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (the12for12)*


_Quote, originally posted by *the12for12* »_go ahead and start the thread. We're here to support the idea, kool?

If only I knew what I was talking about.








I've been throwing the idea around about carbing my 91 gli, and have tried to search on here. There seem to be many people who have halfassed their conversion, and I want to do it right the first time.


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## the12for12 (Jul 21, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (weg786)*

Understood.
We can add it to the "to do " list, so stay tunned, kool?


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (the12for12)*

MSD 6AL
MSD Retard Box
VW Hall Sensor Booster
VW Hall Sensor plug and a bit of wire
Weber or Delorto Carbs 44's
Intake Manifold's
Upper coolant flange on head
Air Filters
Manual choke cable
Reconfigured Throttle cable
Holley low pressure/high volume fuel pump
Holley low pressure fuel pressure regulator (not the one that comes with the pump, but the 0-5 lb version)
Fuel line fittings to make it work
Fuel pressure gauge
Oil catch Can
Modified accesory bracket
And I think that is about it.


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (vtgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vtgti* »_
And I think that is about it.









Exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot.
Another Question: Can you keep the A/C? It seems like most people remove it and put the alternator in it's place.


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (weg786)*

No room for the A/C. On a fuel injected car the intake manifold curls around back over the head and gives you room for the accesories. On a carb'd car the carbs hang down over the front. (remember that the engine is actually tilted back a bit, it isn't vertical).
Take your pick. Comfort of performance.


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## the12for12 (Jul 21, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (vtgti)*

thx for the quick reply vtgti, I'm all about 8vs so research was under construction, kool?


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (the12for12)*

I am by no means an expert, but I'd be glad to offer any advice I can offer. I have a very simple set up that is very expandable as I am using the MSD system.
I am running a 2.0 16v out of a Passat. This is mated to a G60 tranny by means of a lightened flywheel and a Spec Stage 3 clutch (the VR6 clutch I had in it, didn't last). I cut the accessory bracket, by removing the alternator bracket location, and shaving the width of the A/C position and mounted the alternator on using an old 8v non-A/C pulley (feel free to cross reference this as to what else it came on). I used the factory belt tensioner. I got the carb set up as a used set up. Dellorto 44's. They had the linkages and chokes all set up, but I had to plumb them and modify the throttle linkage. I used the Holley Fuel pump that comes with a fuel pressure regulator, but had problems with this as I'd notice that my fuel pressure gauge located just after the regulator would sometimes shoot up to 20+ lbs. This was a result of the Holley fuel pressure regulator being a 4-12lb regulator or something and at 4 lbs it was on the limit and it'd leak pressure past, so I had to swap for another Holley regulator that had a more appropriate range. For spark, I used a MSD 6AL computer which has the soft rev limiter and it allows for plug in modules (which are very cool and easy and piss off my fuel injected friends when I have a 2 step for $70 and can have an idiot proof nitrous set up with rev limits, window switches, spark retard, and etc for cheap). I also used a MSD retard box to help start the car. I used the factory 16v distributor, and utilized it's Hall Sensor Output plugged into the Hall Sensor Booster to amplify the signal for the MSD to recognize. I don't have any vacuum systems on the car. (no power brakes) So I have no need to draw any vacuum, although my manifold has a vacuum output on it.
Hmm, I guess that is all for now. Let me know if you have any questions.








And a short video of the Cab running down the street by my shop. (the loud buzzing noise you hear in the beginning is the fuel pump. You'll hear as I roll into the throttle in 1st gear, couldn't resist to hit the throttle hard in 2nd resulting in wheel spin most of the way through 2nd, you'll hear the tires chirp as they grab, and then I get 3rd but slow down right soon after)
http://www.chrisachilles.com/v...1.wmv
right click, save as, please...


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

Alright I think I've located everything except the hall signal booster. My car doesn't already have a booster, or does it?
Also here is a list of fuel regulators: 
http://store.summitracing.com/...24494
All I see is 0-4psi and 4.5-9psi. The carbs need about 5psi right?


_Modified by weg786 at 2:30 AM 9-21-2004_


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: (weg786)*

The carbs need 4 psi.
You have a hall sensor booster in your car already. It is in mounted on the computer bracket case or somewhere similar.
In the following pic you'll see the MSD retard box, the hall sensor plug (which plugs into your distributor), and the hall sensor booster.








Here is a pic of my coolant flange. The factory coolant flange curves a bit with the direction of the intake manifold. This new flange needs to come down more and come out straight. 
















Here is a pic of the alternator bracket. You'll notice the flatter spot on it where the upper part of the bracket was cut off. (you'll also notice the coolant flange installed).


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: (weg786)*


_Quote, originally posted by *weg786* »_All I see is 0-4psi and 4.5-9psi. The carbs need about 5psi right?
_Modified by weg786 at 2:30 AM 9-21-2004_

As I mentioned before, you need the 0-4 psi regulator as if you try to get 4 psi out of the 4.5-9 psi regulator it leaks pressure past and the fuel pressure climbs to over 20 psi....


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

Besides on the startup, what are you doing about the timing? I read something about if you reverse the wires on the MSD you get yourself a nice advance curve. Or am I making that up? This looks like it would take the place of the startup retard, and would give me an adjustable curve: http://www.msdignition.com/tc_3.htm


_Modified by weg786 at 1:13 PM 9-21-2004_


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## joezeeuw (Feb 23, 2003)

*Re: (weg786)*

nice thread


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: (weg786)*

Yeah my retard box was just a way to get the car going. I'm planning on upgrading to a programmable timing computer. MSD has some bad ass pieces to allow your laptop to be plugged in or by using an MSD handheld programing computer to do some custom set up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 









_Quote, originally posted by *weg786* »_Besides on the startup, what are you doing about the timing? I read something about if you reverse the wires on the MSD you get yourself a nice advance curve. Or am I making that up? This looks like it would take the place of the startup retard, and would give me an adjustable curve: http://www.msdignition.com/tc_3.htm

_Modified by weg786 at 1:13 PM 9-21-2004_


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

Alright I think I've got all my questions answered. I'll let it sit for a few days and let any questions regarding a 16v carb swap be asked by others, then I'll put all the info into a single post and add it in the FAQ.


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## Peanut (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (weg786)*

Can i get away with my stock fuel pump and a low pressure regulator with a return line?? Although i'm switching to carbs i'd like to keep the fuel system stock if at all possible for reasons i don't feel like mentioning.
Thanks 
P


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: (Peanut)*

No, your VW pump is a high pressure/low volume pump. You will definitly need to switch it to something else.


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## Peanut (Nov 8, 2001)

*Re: (vtgti)*

What about bypassing the high pressure pump and using just the in-pump tank transfer pump. It is a low pressure/high volume which requires no addiitional wiring or plumbing. 
I've heard of this working well, and am looking for a second opinoin.
Mike


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

*Re: (Peanut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Peanut* »_What about bypassing the high pressure pump and using just the in-pump tank transfer pump. It is a low pressure/high volume which requires no addiitional wiring or plumbing. 


I believe this will work, but you need the regulator as well.
Anymore questions from anyone just ask. Nows the time.


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## Mk2enthusiast (Oct 14, 2001)

*Re: (weg786)*

alright..how about the crankcase breather. did anyone run vaccuum to it, in addition to their filter/catchcan setup?


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: (Mk2enthusiast)*

For now, my breather has no vacuum. Some people have asked why I don't have a vacuum back in, and to tell you the truth, I don't know why I don't.... I guess I wasn't interested in reburning the oil.


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## Mk2enthusiast (Oct 14, 2001)

*Re: (vtgti)*

no oil has reached up to your filter has it? cuz thats a long way from the block to where you have it...


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## Achilles (May 8, 2002)

*Re: (Mk2enthusiast)*

I've got a catch can, that does accumulate oil. Higher revs mean more oil in the catch can. I just empty it out every so often when I think about it, and I get about a cup or so. Of course it seems like I change my oil at about every 1000 miles as it is still a relatively fresh engine, and I'm changing something or other on it, so the oil level doesn't really drop any.


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## bzflag (Apr 27, 2003)

bump


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## melmer (Feb 15, 2001)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (weg786)*

This is one of the best threads I've seen in a long time - I need to cruise the technical forums more often.
VtGTI -
Did you wire all of that into the stock vw wiring harness or are you using a custom harness? Now that I know what I need, its time to figure out what I don't need.
Thanks,
Mike


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## Macho_volks (Jan 2, 2003)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (melmer)*

just what i needed


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## RILEY UK (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (Macho_volks)*

not sure if you guys outside uk have the problem of,the 16v dizzy cap hitting the brake servo/master cylinder ?








this may be helpfull?
i ran the 16v carbed lump on the original kr ecu,which was wired to the coil/hall sender(dizzy),and earthed to rocker cover.
i used cylinder n0.4 off the inlet manifold for the brake servo with no problems.
in between the pipe to the servo,i put the one way valve that normally feeds the mpg reading on the mfa.
and used this for the vac advance for the ecu.
i had it set up once and its never missed a beat,and has always sat ticking over bang on 1k...








sound clip here,turn up the volume!  


_Modified by RILEY UK at 3:13 PM 11-28-2004_


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## RILEY UK (Nov 27, 2004)

*Re: (vtgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *vtgti* »_For now, my breather has no vacuum. Some people have asked why I don't have a vacuum back in, and to tell you the truth, I don't know why I don't.... I guess I wasn't interested in reburning the oil.

i used a catch tank too,was thinking about making a return from catch tank to the sump...
but with the smoke/steam you get in the tank,the oil ends up looking crappy http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif 
i dont see any point in reburning the fumes?
and a tank keeps your oil looking fresh http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## vwpat (Oct 25, 2000)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (RILEY UK)*

the later mc/bb combo is shorter and gives enough room also but the FIAT/Pug dizzy cap works well.


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## A.Wilder (Mar 1, 2003)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (vwpat)*









is this the fuel pump and fpr you need?
Free Flow Rate: 110 gph 
Maximum Pressure (psi): 14 
and the regulator is for 1-4 psi
thanks!


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## a2lowvw (Dec 17, 2000)

*Re: (Peanut)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Peanut* »_Can i get away with my stock fuel pump and a low pressure regulator with a return line?? Although i'm switching to carbs i'd like to keep the fuel system stock if at all possible for reasons i don't feel like mentioning.
Thanks 
P


i run a mallory return style fpr. its adjustable down to 3 psi i have used it without any problems on my gti with dual carbs


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## Redline Evangelist (Jun 30, 2003)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (Polizei_99)*

I used Holley red and a Filter King regulator.


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## Wizzelt (Mar 17, 2002)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (Redline Evangelist)*

I just bypassed the main pump and ran the transfer pump (in tank) pump, with a Mallory 4 pot. worked great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I miss that car


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## vwsnaps (Jan 2, 2000)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (Wizzelt)*

What kind of power numbers are you actually getting on this set up (especially a built 2.1 litre with 1.8 head as this is the set up I'm contemplating on my 87 race car)?
Sean Castner


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## impulse byer (Mar 8, 2003)

*Re: Correct procedure and parts list for a 16v carb conversion... (mr.vwcastner)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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