# Water Trap Placement?



## Dangler (Sep 27, 2001)

I've searched the threads already, just looking for more discussion on the topic. 
Now, I understand the general consensus for the placement of a water trap is in series between the compressor and the tank.
But as i was doing some research on which water trap to buy. On another forum i found some different advice.
"In most cases water traps or dryers are not required with our systems as the compressors simply do not run often enough to create a lot of moisture.
Look at it this way. . .if you inflated and deflated the vehicle 3 times a day (once in the morning, once at lunch, and once at night), as well as multiple times on the weekend, the compressor(s) will only run for an average of 60 minutes per WEEK. Compared to a shop air compressor this is nothing.
...Even if moisture is created in the system it will do no permanent damage. The only inconvenience is if you drive the vehicle in cold weather. In this situation the moisture can settle in the valves and freeze. This incapacitates the valves until the vehicle is warm enough to thaw the valves. This is why w*e suggest placing the valves above the center line of the tank if possible.*
However, a dryer never hurts. I prefer to install *a dryer between the supply tank and the valves* as *the aluminum tanks can "sweat"*, so you are sure to catch the moisture before it enters the valve assembly.
...However, let's take your car for example. If you didn't drain the system, the moisture would be pushed into the bags when you inflate, then pushed out the exhaust ports of the valves when you deflate. We only use aluminum, brass, and plastic (no steel) so corrosion is non existent. You would be able to run that system for years with no deterioration caused by the moisture.
Now, if you are in a cold climate and drive the vehicle in the winter, the moisture will freeze. This can cause problems (like freezing the valves shut and destroying pressure sensors). In this situation a dryer should be used..." 
* by [email protected]*
Link to other thread http://www.ridetech.com/forum/...=3947
So what does everyone else think? I'd like more opinions before i buy a pair of water traps. The location i place them determines some of the fittings i buy for my setup
BTW regardless of where I place the water traps, I will have drain cocks at the bottom of each of my 2x 3gallon aluminum tanks. 
And are all water traps the same??
I was looking at the 
SMC








or ASCO








Any Suggestions?...I kinda like the idea of the ASCO, b/c you can see the water level

Thanks guys


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: Water Trap Placement? (Dangler)*

I'll be keeping an eye on this. I've always wondered why the general consensus here seems to be to put the water trap between the compressor and tank rather than between the tank and valves. Is it just to help catch more moisture before it has a chance to enter the tank? It just seems like it would be more effective to put the trap right before the valves instead of before the tank.


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## Dangler (Sep 27, 2001)

*FV-QR*

From what i've been reading, the argument against putting the trap b/w the tank and the compressor, is the air doesn't have enough time to condense and collect in the trap, since most leader lines from the compressors aren't very long.


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## [email protected] (Jan 26, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Dangler)*

real life experience has told me, that not all watertraps are the same.
The all metal SMC is way better for 2 reasons.
1st on the asco trap the little plastic button on the bottom will break.
2nd a plastic bowl will crack, with extreme temperature fluctuations.
The compressors pump out very hot air. and it gets cold here in canada. plastic bowls will fail. Only metal bowls used by me.


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## Dangler (Sep 27, 2001)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_real life experience has told me, that not all watertraps are the same.
The all metal SMC is way better for 2 reasons.
1st on the asco trap the little plastic button on the bottom will break.
2nd a plastic bowl will crack, with extreme temperature fluctuations.
The compressors pump out very hot air. and it gets cold here in canada. plastic bowls will fail. Only metal bowls used by me.


Thanks Kevin....SMC it is then. Any thoughts on placement of the trap?
I'll be running aluminum tanks.


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (Dangler)*

I always run traps between the compressor and the tank, not between the tank and the valves. This is mainly for ease of install. Also, the climate here in Seattle isn't particularly humid, so water in the air is fairly minimal.
I drain my trap every ~2 weeks or so and I only get a couple teaspoons of water out of it.


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dangler)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dangler* »_From what i've been reading, the argument against putting the trap b/w the tank and the compressor, is the air doesn't have enough time to condense and collect in the trap, since most leader lines from the compressors aren't very long. 

Yeah, I read that too, which is why I'm wondering why it seems like most people DO put the trap between the tank and compressor. I guess ease of install is part of it, as the capt. mentioned. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Retromini (Nov 7, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR ([email protected])*


_Quote, originally posted by *[email protected]* »_real life experience has told me, that not all watertraps are the same.
The all metal SMC is way better for 2 reasons.
1st on the asco trap the little plastic button on the bottom will break.
2nd a plastic bowl will crack, with extreme temperature fluctuations.
The compressors pump out very hot air. and it gets cold here in canada. plastic bowls will fail. Only metal bowls used by me.


Yup, I just switched to SMC. Over the course of the winter, my asco cracked (presumably from the temperature fluctuations). 
Good thread topic http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Dangler (Sep 27, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Note water trap placement...and this guy is in NYC....









and in the tri-state...temp fluctuations from day to day can be drasitic...and during the summer it can get pretty humid.


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## markfif (Oct 25, 2007)

on my setup the water trap is after between the tank and the valves. i had to take the pressure out of the system so i just bled the water trap, nothing came out. i went to move the tank around and HEARD water shifting. took off the plug on the bottom and there was over a soup can full of water sitting in the bottom of the tank. 
im buying 2 more traps to put in between the compressors and the tank. I live in florida so it is really humid down here as well.


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dangler)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Dangler* »_Note water trap placement...and this guy is in NYC....
and in the tri-state...temp fluctuations from day to day can be drasitic...and during the summer it can get pretty humid. 


haha, funny you should mention that. 
More of his work (amazing setup btw):


_Quote, originally posted by *markfif* »_on my setup the water trap is after between the tank and the valves. i had to take the pressure out of the system so i just bled the water trap, nothing came out. i went to move the tank around and HEARD water shifting. took off the plug on the bottom and there was over a soup can full of water sitting in the bottom of the tank. 
im buying 2 more traps to put in between the compressors and the tank. I live in florida so it is really humid down here as well.

Damn.










_Modified by hellaSmoked at 1:58 PM 6-10-2009_


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## theAntiRiced (May 7, 2005)

*FV-QR*

I had 3' metal lines made to extend the leader lines from the compressors to the water traps.


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## windsorvr (Nov 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (theAntiRiced)*

does anyone know if there are some water traps out there rated over 150 psi? thats what my smc is rated at but my controller (autopilot) starts/stops the compressor at 145/175 psi. i cant find any leaks but it just for peace of mind


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## markfif (Oct 25, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (windsorvr)*

i was wondering the same thing. but i have no leaks around my trap, i think that its odd there is no leak or the water trap doesn't break because it has constant pressure of more then 150. o well


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (markfif)*

They're rated low. Kinda like how 225/40/18's are meant for a 9" wide wheel max, but we put them on 10's all the time.


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## windsorvr (Nov 23, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Capt. Obvious)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Capt. Obvious* »_They're rated low. Kinda like how 225/40/18's are meant for a 9" wide wheel max, but we put them on 10's all the time.









http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## dckeener (Jan 10, 2005)

*Re: FV-QR (windsorvr)*

The only problem with putting a trap after the tank is water will eventually collect in the tank, just like a in a shop setup, and that will have to be drained too.


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## Plain (Jun 14, 2004)

*FV-QR*

You never can be to safe.
water trap --> compressor --> water trap --> tank --> water trap --> fill-valve valve --> water trap --> bag --> water trap --> dump valve --> water trap


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## Dangler (Sep 27, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Thats a whole lotta water trap.


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dangler)*

Since I'm going to run a tank drain wouldn't it be better for me to put the water trap between the tank and the valves, as opposed to between the compressors and the tank?


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## Plain (Jun 14, 2004)

*FV-QR*

Some tanks have 1/4" ports on the sides, so mount it 90º so the 1/4" is pointing down, then run a line straight down to a small valve, then have a switch at your dash or on your switchbox, that can open the valve, tank drains, life continues.


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## Plain (Jun 14, 2004)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *hellaSmoked* »_Since I'm going to run a tank drain wouldn't it be better for me to put the water trap between the tank and the valves, as opposed to between the compressors and the tank?


Yeah I think so, as long as there is a drain tank that would probably work good. I had my valves freeze open and shut, when they freeze open, they just keep filling the bag. A bit of antifreeze in the tank worked, would have been nice to have a tank drain to empty that stuff thou. I would have done a tank drain if I would have kept my car.


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Plain)*

I'm just talking about a drain like this... http://store.gaugemagazine.com/draincock14npt.aspx


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## Stan Marsh (Feb 20, 2005)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *hellaSmoked* »_I'm just talking about a drain like this... http://store.gaugemagazine.com/draincock14npt.aspx


I think he is talking about an electric tank drain.


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Stan Marsh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Stan Marsh* »_
I think he is talking about an electric tank drain.

Yeah, I'm thinking that as well. I've decided to just run the WT between the comps and the tank. Everyone does it like this, and I haven't seen any major problems with it. I will run a tank drain anyway though.


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## Dangler (Sep 27, 2001)

*FV-QR*

Yeah... i decided to place the WT's between the tanks and comps. with drain cocks at the bottom of the tanks.
See how it holds up over the winter...if there is issues, i can always rearrange the setup. 
I went with 2x 3/8" SMC all metal water traps. picked them up from AAC and a bunch of fittings, super fast ship time also. 







to Kevin @ AAC


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Dangler)*

Yeah, seems like people's main goal is to put the trap before the tank to prevent water from entering the tank, as the valves seem to be able to pass water pretty well. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Ian K (Aug 25, 2003)

*Re: FV-QR (hellaSmoked)*


_Quote, originally posted by *hellaSmoked* »_Yeah, seems like people's main goal is to put the trap before the tank to prevent water from entering the tank, *as the valves seem to be able to pass water pretty well. * http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 

The valves most of us use are designed to flow oil, water, or air. It even says it on the papers included with the valves. As stated in the OP's post, the only real threat should be water freezing in temperatures cold enough.
Im not an airride pro, but this is what I have gathered from talking to a few people and personal experience.


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Boosted20th2886)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Boosted20th2886* »_
The valves most of us use are designed to flow oil, water, or air. It even says it on the papers included with the valves. As stated in the OP's post, the only real threat should be water freezing in temperatures cold enough.
Im not an airride pro, but this is what I have gathered from talking to a few people and personal experience.

Yeah, and even then it seems like adding some airbrake antifreeze fixes frozen valves right up. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Capt. Obvious (Oct 23, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (hellaSmoked)*

In great Mother Russia, the water traps YOU!


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## hellaSmoked (Nov 24, 2004)

*Re: FV-QR (Capt. Obvious)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Capt. Obvious* »_In great Mother Russia, the water traps YOU!

Are you watching Family Guy?


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