# Broken Exhaust Stud, Head. Removal or Repair Tips Please?



## Vanagon Nut (Oct 19, 2007)

Hi all.

Have been enjoying my 2.0 but after 25K miles or so, the primary pipes I made finally bit the bullet (cracked). Thought I'd get away with a more or less "bolt on" solution so sourced a New Beetle mani and 2002 downpipe. Removed exhaust manifold. Broke a stud. It snapped so easily, I swear the previous owner felt it start to snap part way then left it that way. That's my story anyways. 

In this situation, would drilling and tapping to the next smaller size, then putting a bolt in, be a reliable fix? I don't have great hopes of drilling and tapping to the original size and don't want to risk snapping an Easy Out in there trying to get the remaining stud bit out. BTDT.

Are there coolant passages near this stud? How much leeway have I got? How far in can I drill?

Much thanks and enjoy the pics!

Neil.










And just for laughs, my slightly used $50 downpipe cut up and mocked into place. I'll have to cut and turn the pipe on it to mate up with the existing exhaust below.


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## zero. (Aug 14, 2001)

I'd probably risk trying an easy out/extractor. If you use a big enough one that's a little smaller than the stud and drill the right sized hole on center, it will probably come out no problem. Soak it in PB Blaster first. Use a tap wrench or vise grips and stop when you feel it's going to break. If it does break, there may be enough sticking up to get it out anyway. 50/50 shot. Just had to extract a sheared motor mount bolt.


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## tdogg74 (Mar 1, 2002)

Let me know if you need new studs...I have spares.


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## Vanagon Nut (Oct 19, 2007)

Thanks for the quick reply zero.

I have time, so over next day or two, hopefully the PB will soak in far enough. 

911_fan: thanks for parts offer. I may have a parts source close by but will keep you in mind.

Neil.


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## Vanagon Nut (Oct 19, 2007)

*Stud Out. Thanks!*

Image shows tool possibly not used absolutely correctly. Occured to me after, that I should have used next size smaller, so thicker part of tool at shoulder. If that makes sense.

Not sure if this helps, but I focused my eyes more on the tip or shank of tool itself. e.g. if I saw it start to twist, but work didn't, I'd stop asap. Used one hand on tool ONLY, centering hand. Like used as little mechanical advantage as possible. I got lucky, but common sense helped me too.

Thanks for the tips people,

Neil.


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