# DIY: Steering wheel replacement (upgrade?)



## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Hi All, when we first picked up our van used, it had a few wear issues. One of them was the steering wheel leather was pretty worn down and the silver on the plastic was worn off on spots, making it look pretty ratty.

I searched around for used wheels first (and were worn as bad as mine), then started looking at new ones, where I believe were around ~$300. 

One of the advantages of our cars being discontinued seems to be some dealers are clearing out stock (or VWOA is.)

Anyways, I found a new OEM steering wheel with the multi function controls and appears to be different leather (or mine is that worn or vinyl) for ~$70, so I grabbed that since my actual wheel was a lot more!

Please use these directions at your own discretion, and consult a profesional if you are unsure of anything, I will not take any responsibility for any actions you may partake in by following my direction. Proceed at your own risk!

Removal is pretty easy:

Tools I used (missing 13mm socket) and the only screws removed.










Disconnect negative cable for 10 minute or more with 10mm wrench.

Remove the knee / kick panel, 2 screws with a T-20 bit near odb port and hood release handle. Pop it off, you may have to depress the parking brake to help with leveraging the panel out.

Remove lower column cowl, 2 screws are philips, one lower screw below the adjustable column handle is T-20 bit.

Now the fun part, after removing the top cowl half, bottom can stay in place, turn the wheel so you can see the clip for the airbag with a mirror and remove with a bent flat head screw driver or special tool. Repeat the same for the other two, turning the steering wheel. Be careful not to let the airbag fall of on the last clip undoing. Make sure to set the airbag face up in case it goes off to avoid creating a projectile.










Carefully squeeze the sides of each airbag connector and pull straight out.










Squeeze the clip on the white connector and pull it out of the steering wheel.










With a 13mm socket and extension and small ratchet, I was able to remove the center bolt by hand, no breaker bar and no assistant.

Steering wheel should wiggle and pull right off, I could not find a torque spec, so I just did tight as I could with a short wrench and no holding the steering wheel. There is a spline on the shaft to align the wheel to keep it dead center, make sure you do not let the clock spring unwind, there is a arm/stud that will fit back in the steering wheel to hold the clockspring in the correct place. After plugging the white clip back in, the airbag should plug in then snap it back to the steering wheel, double check with your mirror to make sure they are all attached.

I am paranoid, so I after connecting the battery, I turn the car on from the passenger seat with my face away to test 

No warning lights, everything buttoned back together!










Unfortunately the extra buttons do nothing (as I expected since I have the simpler display) But it looks visually nicer with the buttons and the silver and leather are brand new and much better than the worn wheel. The padding seems thicker on the premium wheel, and the leather is more a black/gray rather than light gray on my old one. Not sure if that is a worn out thing or not.

I thought of upgrading to the 2011+ style wheel, but I would have to buy an airbag too $$$, and not sure of the connector. The only connectors that come from the clock spring are the socket for the white 6 pin plug and the 2 airbag connectors, so it might be feasible if the connectors are the same for the new wheel and airbag. Looking at pictures on the internet, I think it can be done. Hard to tell if the new cruise control connector is the same physically and electrically. I dont see the horn surround on this picture either.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

Update: Embarrassed to admit it but I didn't fully check all the functions. I came out to the car and the battery was nearly dead. So charged it back up, checked the horn and the function buttons behind the wheel and none of them worked. Assumed something was wired different with the 6 pin white connector, and draining the battery. So I tore everything down again, removed the old harness from the old wheel and moved it to the new wheel. Buttoned it back up and everything now works as it should. The front multifunction buttons are now completely disconnected. 

Hardest part removing the harness was snaking it behind the metal and between the plastic. If you know how to remove connector pins, that was the easiest way to get it through. 

Apparently the white plug is not a pin to pin match.

Was able to find the OEM manufacture for the wire harness: http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/1832127-3

PDF has the pinouts, etc.


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## routan2010se (Jun 17, 2013)

A few weeks later and all is still good, battery is good in the 4F weather we have been having, so I didn't kill that!


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## outlawtartan (Feb 18, 2010)

Nice write up...my 2010 non-multifunction is starting to show some wear. So when I swap out the center console for a premium one I'll look for a new steering wheel! :beer:


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