# Defend the 8V !!!!



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

Hey folks, What's the best way to get around 150 hp (or more







) from an 8v?
What's your set-up and what kind of power are you getting?
Defend the 8v before I just swap to a 16v


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*FV-QR*

Spend many, many thousands.
I love my 8v, but it's better to be realistic







.


----------



## epjetta (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

with a turbo how many valves you have is irrelevant. go boost


----------



## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (epjetta)*

I am in the same boat but what about a mega sqiurt?Then go boost.


----------



## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (83mk2scirocco)*

8 valaves of fury.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (83mk2scirocco)*

no boost... not my cup of tea. Anyone got any real builds that are making good power... and are any of you still using the CIS-E? Or is 150 hp with the CIS just a joke?


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

Hey B4S, you think its better to be realistic and just go with the 16v?


----------



## fuchsgti (Jul 2, 2008)

if u want that kind of power im mk11roc


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *newguy99* »_no boost... not my cup of tea. Anyone got any real builds that are making good power... and are any of you still using the CIS-E? Or is 150 hp with the CIS just a joke? 
 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the no boost.CIS and 150 hp would be tough with CIS, could be done with MS. I'd personally start with a 2.0L motor


----------



## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (Prof315)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Prof315* »_ 
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif to the no boost.CIS and 150 hp would be tough with CIS, could be done with MS. I'd personally start with a 2.0L motor
I can go for a 93 to 95 2.0 block.I let one go at the wrecking yard.It probably got sent to the melting pot.Sad very sad.


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*Re: (fuchsgti)*


_Quote, originally posted by *fuchsgti* »_if u want that kind of power im mk11roc

MkIIrocc's setup is no secret, it's all out there for everyone to see. 178whp is pretty damn good...but it's a little bit OTT for a street car.

_Quote, originally posted by *"eightvalves.com"* »_2.0 LITER, SINGLE OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT, eight valve
14:1 COMPRESSION RATIO
CNC PROFILED RODS
ARP HARDWARE
EUROSPEC LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL
STOCK SACHS CLUTCH
STOCK PRESSURE PLATE
EUROSPEC STAGE III RACE HEAD
42.5mm STAINLESS STEEL INTAKE VALVES
36mm STAINELSS STEEL EXHAUST VALVES
TITANIUM RETAINERS
OVERSIZED HD VALVE SPRINGS
OVERSIZED SPRING SEATS
2x WEBER 45 DCOE CARBURETORS
SHRICK MANIFOLD, PORTED
TECHTONICS TUNING LONGTUBE 4-1 HEADERS
MALLORY VI CDIS IGNITION
8200 RPM REDLINE


Now, take into consideration that there are thousands of dollars into a VERY custom engine, it takes dedication to get that far.


----------



## 83mk2scirocco (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: (B4S)*

Thank you for the weber link.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: (83mk2scirocco)*

Yeah, I'm looking to do something without all that custom work (and money). Well unless someone has a better idea I'm just going to go for the 16v...


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: (newguy99)*

Oh and 178whp is not oot on the street...


----------



## jessemthompson (Sep 15, 2003)

*Re: (newguy99)*

Hey there newguy99. I own an 87 Golf with an 8V. I have an ABA bottom end, a ported head solid lifter head with a 280/276 cam, a ported dual downpipe and 2 1/4 exhaust with a flowmaster, all mated to a 4k transmission. This car is a blast to drive, and beats up on most 16v's. Granted it wont beat a 16v with a ported head and other work, but it is cheaper to build and easier to maintain. I also like the added factor of people being shocked when you tell them it's just an 8V. Plus these little 8V's can take an absolute beating and keep going for you.


----------



## livingez123 (Jul 7, 2009)

I spent the most of my time porting the head, because most the power you can get will come from there, the short block just around and up and down, not much tech there. But a real good port job and work into the area behind the valves will free up a bunch of hp. I spent over 40hrs doing my 1.8 head and I think I could have spent more time on it but I was putting a turbo on it and everything seems to work better with a little more air being stuffed in it. but if you cant get it out fast enough that is where the port work will come into play. right now I have a 2.0 and another 1.8 sitting on my garage floor and I think maybe this time around I might a 16v or maybe just stick with what I know works.


----------



## timeslice (Dec 2, 2008)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*








I love the 8v....I do like the 16v too....but like a previous post....nothing like beatin someone and opening the hood to show it is an 8v. I have an 87 golf runin megasquirt 1 (fuel only). MSD 6AL, 4-2-1 header, and high flow cat, 2.25 exhaust. The big stuff is cold air intake with BMW MAF, p&p head, 270 cam with hd valve springs (a must have), lightened and balanced 3A 2.0 bottom end, compression set at at 10.5 to 1, sachs sport clutch with 16v pressure plate, and a built tranny. With about 10 hours of playing with the ms I made 147 hp and 140 ft lbs on a roller dyno. There is not too much normally aspirated out there that I don't beat or hand with. I have about 1700 in the whole build but can be done for 1000 if you have some skills to do the stuff yourself!
Have fun.....keep the 8v's alive!


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (timeslice)*

Okay... this is getting better...
I like what you guys are doing and the numbers sound pretty good. And thanks for the actual build specs. I guess the best plan is the P&P, 270 cam head with the 2.0 bottom end, and then all the bolt ons. What is the best 2.0 bottom end? ABA, something else?
Oh and does anyone have the TT big valve kit in their head? Is it worth the $400 bucks?
I just might be warming up to this 8v idea. 
Keep the ideas flowing...


----------



## jessemthompson (Sep 15, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

To respond about the big Valves. I went with the 41mm 34 mm valves and felt it was worth the cost, especially with some good porting done to the head. I thought about the 42 35's but they require machining in new valve seats which can be costly. I even spoke to my machinist about it and he said the cost worth benefit would not be worth the gain. Also what engine management are you running? If it isn't digifant I would run TT's 276 cam and not the 270. If the 276 sounds too big for you I would run the TT268. Autotech measures there cam differently and there 270 is about the equivalent of a TT266.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (jessemthompson)*

I just had a tt280* cam in the car for a week, I was very pleased with how it drove as a dd. I do have MS on the car, and that I'm sure made the diff between a lopey and fussy lowend and the smooth running motor I experienced. I also don't have a high compression motor (maybe later). I wouldn't count out a little more cam if you leave the CIS management.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

I'm running the Autotech 270 with CIS-e... Bad idea you thinks?


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

Question for timeslice... have you ever run a 1/4 mile with whatever car that engine is in? What is the car and what have you done with it? ET, trap speed, etc... if you have raced it. I don't plan to drag but its my best reference for power vs speed... Sorry i came here from the hot rod world.


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

No, I was expecting a rougher idle than what I got. The CIS tends to react poorly to a cam w/ more overlap (by design) and creates a rough idle, off idle, no problem. With the MS, the cam's overlap is much less noticeable at idle. And it's also about what you the driver can live with. Some people will drive a peaky motor in traffic and be fine with it, others won't. Do what suits you.


----------



## na8valvefox (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

12:1 compression fully balanced arp bolt solid lifter head big cam big valves port and polish.intake manifold fully ported and polished and throttle body as well custom volvo intake box with ram air setup . exhaust mainfold full ported and wrap in header wrap and custom exhaust 21/4 with flow master no cat. msd wires ingtion coil. also installed wot switch and different ecu and also did dpr tunnig and have a power model as well. light weight flywheel like 13lbs and also have stage 2 clutch from spec. 032 motor mounts. maybe close to 150 hp dyno is next week 
8v cise can make power about 1500 in my build


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (na8valvefox)*

Not saying CIS can't make power, I'm just saying it doesn't like overlap at idle. The pulses from the overlap in the intake push the metering plate closed and exaggerate the lopey-ness of the cam. We made 123whp on a 16V 1.8 stock on CIS lambda with the frequency valve disconnected (that just made it leaner).
Post up your numbers when you get them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif What cam are you using? And is it a solid or Hydro head?


----------



## na8valvefox (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

running solid lifter head with 286 autotech cam


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (na8valvefox)*

Looking forward to the results. How does it feel? How far are you rev-ing it right now?


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

All these sound pretty damn good... and make a convincing argument to just keep the old 8v.
But i'm in CA and we have stupid smog laws and most of these set-ups wont pass. Anyone making good numbers in CA and still passing smog or at least think they will pass when they are called on.
... but do keep this going. I like all the ideas


----------



## na8valvefox (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

IT PULLS SO HARD ALL THE WAY TO 7200 RPM I COULD GO HIGHER BUT NO POINT AND IT DOESNT RUN LEAN AT ALL IN HIGH RPMS. WHEN I CRUISE IN SECOND GEAR AROUND 40 MPH AND PUNCH IT I WILL START TO GET A LITTLE WHEEL SPIN. WITH 215/60 R13 TIRES 
I HAVE SMOKED VTEC HONDAS BUILT AND SOME MILD BUILT EVO AND SRT4S UNTIL ABOUT 90MPHS BUT I LOVE MY LITTLE 8 VALVE AND MAKE A LOT OF PEOPLE MAD ABOUT THAT. SOME PEOPLE THINK I HAVE A 16 VALVE IN MY CAR


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

Most of what I think you'll need to do is headwork. To get toward your intended target will require a very good flowing head and intake and exhaust to be able to move enough air to make power and still be CARB compliant or close enough that some small changes will make it so. Would a cam swap be too much trouble once a year to pass smog? With a solid lifter head you wouldn't have to worry about swapping lifters also, just need to adjust the shims. And if you get the big stuff making the power, a cam could put you very near the goal.
I think a balanced and good flowing motor w/ a minor bump in CR and the proper cam would be a nice setup and who knows, it might even squeak pass the inspection (of course it will depend upon how far you go with your cam selection).


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

I don't mind swapping cams to pass smog, fine by me. But I think I want a hydro head just cause its easy. Is there a big difference between solid and hydro heads if they are both P&Ped with big valves and a good cam? 
I like what na8valvefox is doing. If I can beat up on vtecs then I'm happy! Can we get a few more details on your set-up what is the different ECU that your running?
...now I have another question.
My current 8v was bone stock, and running great. About a week ago I put an Autotech 270 cam and lighweight lifters in it, Just to keep me happy until I do a full build. I ran great for the first 2 days. Didn't idle all that bad and the extra power was awesome. Then after a few days it started to bog a little bit when I first took off in first gear. The next day it was still doing that I was starting to buck a bit as well. Then the next day it would bog and buck in first and second. Now it does it all the time in any gear. So I reset the timing as that was off. then I started messing with the Fuel mixture screw at the back of the dizzy and the idle screw on the throttle body. Now I have the car running okay again but I lost all the power the cam was making. Little bitch just feels kind of lifeless now.
I pretty sure this is tuning problem because nothing happened right away. It was all pretty gradual. Now I know I need a Bentley but until then who has some really good DIY advice on tuning the 8v CISe system? And who has already run into this problem? 
Sorry for rambling and don't stop with the full build ideas. I might need all these soon because I think I'm sticking with the 8v...


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *newguy99* »_I don't mind swapping cams to pass smog, fine by me. But I think I want a hydro head just cause its easy. Is there a big difference between solid and hydro heads if they are both P&Ped with big valves and a good cam?
 AFAIK, no diff.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

No difference... good. Now what does AFAIK stand for?
And anyone got any data on my current problem?


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (na8valvefox)*

Hey na8valvefox... What is the throttle body and volvo intake box that your running? Haven't really heard how you do that one and what to use. And whats the dpr tuning?
And get those dyno numbers up!


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

AFAIK=As Far As I Know


----------



## rorin8v (Oct 15, 2007)

solid lifter heads you can wrap the cam higher then hydro, and they also creat more tourqe factory. but your going to have to spend lots of money to see anything near 150. its easyer with a turbo or supercharger but its greef with a na


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (ps2375)*

Oh right... thanks


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

Well I solved my problem just by playing with the timing and fuel... But I guess the question killed the thread. 
But thanks everyone for all the build ideas.


----------



## na8valvefox (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

the intake piece is the cis volvo aluminum set up instead of vw plastic intake and then you can run a cone filter sounds better and looks better to


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (na8valvefox)*

Does that volvo stuff actually make any extra power?


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

I would say no extra power from those pieces.b Slightly cooler air could help, but nothing measurable.


----------



## DAVEG (Aug 14, 2001)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

I didn't notice if anyone had mentioned improving the flow and diameter of the intake manifold. That is good for 6HP with other minor changes according to Scientific Rabbit. Also ceramic coatings can have some influnce especially on reducing underhood temperature and improving the internal engine performance. Dry Film Lubricants reduce friction on bearings and pistons while heat reducing coatings improve combustion and reduce detonation and allow a leaner mixture. 
Has anyone tried these Ceramic coatings? Also has anyone used GEX engines as a source for rebuilt 2.0L 8V engines? They claim 130 HP (not WHP) from a basically stock 2.0L 8V.
I would also look to reduce weight which is good for better performance in every way including handling and breaking. Dropping 100 lbs will give you a 5% improvement in power to weight ratio which is like gaining 5HP. A car with sunroof and AC adds about 100 lbs. Dropping the sound deading tar and subsituting a lighter polyelastometric deadner will reduce about 80 lbs and dropping the heavy battery will drop another 10lbs. Eliminating the heavy molded carpet for a custom hand fitted light weight carpet will drop another 5 or 6lbs. and no spare or jack drops 40lbs. It all adds up to a light car that gets better mileage and performs better. 


_Modified by DAVEG at 11:12 PM 8-10-2009_


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*


_Quote, originally posted by *newguy99* »_Does that volvo stuff actually make any extra power? 

We saw anywhere from 300 to 700 more rpms at the top end on our CIS race engines.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (DAVEG)*

Thanks DAVEG. I was planning a P&P head and then P&P and port matched intake and exhaust manifolds. Get everything flowing better. The ceramic coating is something I will have to look into. I know it works but never had it done
Anyone get any DIY info on porting and matching intake and exhaust manifolds? I'm gonna leave the head work to a professional but want to do my own manifolds.
I've seen the GEX stuff but then I saw there prices and said forget it








The wait saving is also a very good idea. I've done this in the past to other cars and got great results but the car I'm building now is strictly street and I'm keeping it comfortable this time. And i'm keeping my working A/C







But hey what is a good lightweight battery?


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (Prof315)*

Oh and good to know about the Volvo intake stuff Prof315


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

Wow... WEIGHT saving. I do know how to spell and just noticed that


----------



## DAVEG (Aug 14, 2001)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

Odessey makes a light weight battery 925 at 24lbs but Braille makes the best at 15-17 lbs. Very light and gel filled with long life and very easy to recharge. You could also relocate the battery to the right rear of the car (Braille is only 3X6X6") . Every little bit helps.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (DAVEG)*

Good to know DAVEG. Muchos Gracias


----------



## MkIIRoc (Feb 20, 2005)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (DAVEG)*

Try a DEKA instead of a braille. Same battery, costs less.


----------



## na8valvefox (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (MkIIRoc)*

yes in the higher rpms i noticed a bit more power from the volov setup and also cleaned up the inside and made it smooth and cermaic coated the outside and made sure i only get cold air nothing under the hood heat


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (na8valvefox)*

Who has more info on some sort of economical ceramic coating?


----------



## MkIIRoc (Feb 20, 2005)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (newguy99)*

My pistons had baked on heat coating. It burned off after a few passes. Might have been a bad application, but I won't do it again.


----------



## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: Defend the 8V !!!! (MkIIRoc)*

2091 cc 
I am supposed to get it dynoed next week.


----------



## B4S (Apr 16, 2003)

*FV-QR*

I have wanted to see the results for a long time. I'll be tuning in







.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (B4S)*

We now have 2 promises in this thread for dyno numbers...
Lets see em!


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (newguy99)*

TTT... see what else we can get out of this


----------



## cLeer257 (Jan 28, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (newguy99)*

any good places to get engine work done in so cal.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: FV-QR (cLeer257)*

SCCH in Long Beach. scch-heads.com or they have a few threads in the engine classifieds here on the vortex. Guy named Jarod is very helpful and they do excellent work


----------



## Sbailey294 (Jan 30, 2006)

I would skip coatings In the engine for a street build on a budget. In lots of testing we found it's best suited for competition builds where money is not a concern.
A well excecuted build with correct tolerances is all you will need. I do like a jet hot coated exhaust manifold for many reasons on a street build.
Flow was touched on a lot in the thread. Don't forget to add compresion. 10:1 ought to be the perfect octane for a CA (91 octane) daily driver.


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: (Sbailey294)*

Thanks man. I figured that coatings were pretty costly and with the fairly easy driving done on the street (compared to competition/racing) wouldn't really bare fruit. 
10:1 was my plan for compression. Is it worth trying to go higher?


----------



## Prof315 (Jan 5, 2009)

*Re: (newguy99)*

not with 91 octane


----------



## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: FV-QR (B4S)*


_Quote, originally posted by *B4S* »_I have wanted to see the results for a long time. I'll be tuning in







.


Here


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

I've also been playing with keeping my 8V, i was considering a VR, but is the power gain worth it over the handling/stability losses, from what i've learned No. Can anyone confirm this? Its gonna be a DD and a weekend rally/Track fun car. At the moment its bone stock 1.8 digifant 2. I don't know too much about V-Dubs as this is my first. I come from the SBC/hot rod world so tunning is a little new to me







. 
I was thinking over bore to 2.0L(dunno how big i can go with out ruining my reliability, P&P, lightened flywheel, adjustable cam gear and an aftermarket cam(no idea which one), mega squirt, cat.less. I'm looking to build a boosted motor, but add the turbo in a bit. I have a bit of a tight budget but don't mind spending $$ on good reliable parts. I plan on keeping my A/C. And i am in the middle of shaving as much weight as I can. Pardon the Noobie Q's but i know nothing about V-dubs










_Modified by MadKatt_44 at 7:44 PM 8-24-2009_


----------



## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: (MadKatt_44)*

Oh snap! ^^ 
We dynoed a bunch of Sciroccos (8V, 16V, CIS, Megasquirt, Turbos, NA) in Oakville (Speers/Third Line) two days ago.


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

**** son what shop?? i live on 3rd and QEW


----------



## LT1M21Stingray (Sep 14, 2006)

*Re: (MadKatt_44)*


_Quote, originally posted by *MadKatt_44* »_**** son what shop?? i live on 3rd and QEW


Neetronics
559 Speers Road
Oakville, Ontario
Last unit behind Halton transmission.
They do lots of Subarus as they have an AWD dyno. They are great guys, and they know their stuff. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

for sure i know that shop, used to work for a used car dealer took cars to halton all the time, lmao small world


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: (MadKatt_44)*

Hey MadKatt_44, I came from the SBC crowd as well and have found everything I wanted to know here on the vortex. Just takes some looking/searching.
By the way, a great way to get 2.0L is using the MK3 bottom end (ABA Is what they call it) and it is an easy swap once your engine is out of the car. There's lots of info on this here on the vortex.
Your build idea sounds like what I had in mind but I still can't decide if I just keep the 8v or just go with the 16v... hence this thread. Right now money is the issue.
Anyway, good luck with the build and its good to see that I'm not the only one who "defected" from the Hot Rod world. (I still love em though)


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

*Re: (newguy99)*

LoL still got my Model T







..But i know what you mean, gas mileage goes a long way







. Ya i was thinking and ABA bottom end but i know i'm sticking with 8V cheaper repair cost, only one came to worry about, and you can beat the living snot out of it and she will keep kicken, sorta like a SBC







. I'm leaning towards ABA with x flow intake, P&P, Dual down pipe, gutted cat., 276 TT cam, adjustable cam gear, upgraded ignition, upgraded fuel pump, biger injectors, BMW MAF, and M.S. If I do all this do i need to upgrade to an MK3 Rad? What about internals If i'm goin boost, forged and balanced? What kind of HP am i looking at, without Boost?
Thanks Guys

_Modified by MadKatt_44 at 9:19 PM 8-25-2009_


_Modified by MadKatt_44 at 9:25 PM 8-25-2009_


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (MadKatt_44)*

You won't need the MAF w/ MS and the stock fuel pump will flow more than enough for NA. I doubt you'll need to get the bigger injectors also, unless you plan on e85. Depending upon the build,I'd guess somewhere around 130whp give or take 5hp. And a OBDI ABA has forged internals.


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

Awesome, so when i go boost, i would need bigger injectors M/S, Maf, A/F gauge, and aftermarket fuel pump/regulator?? Without boost can i still run off regular gas, or would i have to go to premium?


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

P.S. Sorry for thread Jacking







Got carried away


----------



## ps2375 (Aug 13, 2003)

*Re: (MadKatt_44)*

with MS, you'll NEVER need a MAF. You will need a wideband controller, and depending uponthe power level you get to the pump might have to be changed and when you go with boost, you'll most likely have to change the injectors. And the grade of gasoline will depend upon the CR and the tune.


----------



## MadKatt_44 (Aug 18, 2008)

Thanks







started my own thread


----------



## newguy99 (Jul 2, 2009)

*Re: (MadKatt_44)*

Who's got more...


----------

