# Help asap stranded. No start ir spark



## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Car ran fine hit a bump bottomed out on exhaust car ran about 100 ft to park ot. Came out from mall amd no start. Has fuel. Pump os on. Pulled coil 4 amd ground to motor no spark. Possible bad crank position sensor? Coil harness was done this winter. Has run flawless cept on first start up wants to pop sputter and die if you blip throttle. Warms up then fine. Please help

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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Any one got any ideas

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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Do you have vagcom with you? 

Check 02 sensor wires (for both) and see if they got damaged somehow. If so, they could potentially fry your ecu.


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## ejg3855 (Sep 23, 2004)

*FV-QR*

crank position sensor can cause a no start.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Wires are good. And I was thinking crank sensor too

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## Matt_B (Apr 22, 2010)

18T_BT said:


> Do you have vagcom with you?
> 
> Check 02 sensor wires (for both) and see if they got damaged somehow. If so, they could potentially fry your ecu.


As above post cat sensor needs checking. Heard of this shorting out and taking ecu out with it.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Idk the wires look good. And it ran fine shut off came back anf not start. Smell fuel but no spark

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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Did a vag com Check. Nothing showed up. So anyone else think it's a failed crank sensor? Also on start up before this it would idle like cap fit 5 mind or so. Then would run Ok till warm then ran great. Would idle and pop and sputter if tap the gas or go to take off. Did this thru the Apr rune and this current one. 

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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

id ohm test on crank sensor tested with in spec. but got a new one and put it in anyway still no spark... anything else to look at that would do this? how about alarm related say some one tried breaking into it is their some type of ignition interrupter that can go bad? alarm works like it should ecu has been defeated and the car is a 2000. all fuses and fused links are good. all plugs and connections tight. pulled coil pack and did test. no spark at plug. coil pack harness is new..... car has ran great all summer and ran great the 2hr driving their. when I ran a vag com check on the engine it pulled no codes at all. please help I am completely stumped. is their a vag com start up sequence or test I can do that will go thru and check things?


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

1fast2liter said:


> Did a vag com Check. Nothing showed up. So anyone else think it's a failed crank sensor? Also on start up before this it would idle like cap fit 5 mind or so. Then would run Ok till warm then ran great. Would idle and pop and sputter if tap the gas or go to take off. Did this thru the Apr rune and this current one.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk 4


I find that surprising..did you do a VAG-Com *full* Autoscan? Post up results please.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I did one on engine only. I'll check Street work and post

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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

timing belt skip a tooth? technically should throw a code if that were the case, but...

ohm checking a crank sensor isn't good enough to diagnose a failed crank or cam sensor, you'd need an oscilloscope, it has to do with how they work. Doesn't matter since you replaced it anyway, but just an fyi.

do vac leak test. There's a good bet your SAI pump is shot, or there's another major leak somewhere. This would go hand in hand with hard cold starts that smooth out once warm.

as for no spark, check your fuses (in dash and on battery) and the power supply relay. get a volt meter and find out where the voltage stops. start at the power supply relay and work towards the coils, or back depending on how the relay tests.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

No emissions it had all been deleted thru the ecu. No vacuum leaks as I only have 3 lines now. And all fuses checked good. Fusible links on battery were good. And if the power supply relay was bad wouldn't the car bit turn over at all? Doing a full vag scan today

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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Also did a full scan. No codes or stored ones at all. 

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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

What about the vehicle speed sensor will that cause a no spark? Or even though ignition comes on and turns over could it be the ignition switch?

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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

1fast2liter said:


> Also did a full scan. No codes or stored ones at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk 4


Full scan with VAG-COM... not a generic code reader? I'm thinking something like an immobilizer issue which a generic scan will not catch.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

No it was a full vag scan with a real Ross cable. My car doesn't have immobilizer in it. It's a 2000. Also ecu already had it defeated. Life I said their are no codes suited or other wise . Could the vs on the tabs be bad or the ignition switch? 

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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

here is my vag scan. all codes erased and none would make the car not want to start.



Tuesday,15,October,2013,14:34:51:11027
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910


VIN: License Plate: ME
Mileage: 265480km-164961mi Repair Order: 1212121



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT (1999 > 2007)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

Mileage: 265480km/164961miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 HS
Component: 1.8L 93OCTA G03 0007 
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 79671 
VCID: 76EDE58D52EC2EAEBEF-5102
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20.lbl
Part No: 8N0 907 379 C
Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN V003 
Coding: 13504
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 3C7937A52C40B4FE88B-4AB4

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8N0 820 043 
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D02 
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: E7D338C985464726B59-255A

1 Fault Found:
00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) 
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl
Part No: 8N8 909 601 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 0005 
Coding: 10102
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: F7F36889D5E6D7A6259-5178

1 Fault Found:
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199) 
32-00 - Resistance Too High

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-919-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8N1 919 930 B
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D29 
Coding: 07244
Shop #: WSC 02120 
VCID: 38712BB5187898DE6C3-4A9C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl
Part No: 02D 900 554 B
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0006 
VCID: 1F43E0299D96CFE68D9-4A9C

2 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 
00-00 - -
01155 - Clutch 
04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: None
Part No: 8N
Component: Zentralverrieg.,DWA D04 
Coding: 15948
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 860D154DA20CBE2E2EF-4ECA

3 Faults Found:
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring 
35-00 - -
01570 - Turn-Off Delay; Terminal 15 
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01617 - Please Check DTC Memory of Interior Monitoring 
35-10 - - - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
Part No: 8N8 951 177 A
Component: Innenraumueberw. D09 
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 3D7F3AA1375ABDF6BF5-5196

1 Fault Found:
01463 - Alarm triggered by Sensor for anti-theft alarm System 
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4B0-907-357-AUT.lbl
Part No: 4B0 907 357 
Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER D003 
Coding: 00010
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: E5CF32C17F4A5536875-5120

1 Fault Found:
00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78) 
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 8N0 035 186 A
Component: Radio D03 
Coding: 00117
Shop #: WSC 00001 
VCID: 2E5D0DEDEA3C566E36F-4AB4

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------







again my other 3 choices would be a new ignition switch or vehicle speed sensor and a igniton power re;ay bock. just remember it does turn on and the starter turns the engine over. HEP PLEASE


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

I'd try the ignition relay ( Fuel pump relay first ). It is a multifunction relay and some contacts of it could be working but not the others. Check all of your ignition grounds as well. Does this car have 3 wire ( ICM ) ignition coils or 4 wires? 

Just had a thought.... pull the belt cover and make sure that the camshaft is turning. Belt may have broken or sheared teeth. That would cause a crank over but no ignition problem. Edit: I see " rstolz " already mentioned that. 

Do a compression test as well. Good Luck.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Is this relay under the dash? And ya we already verified cams turn. And 3 wire coils I think

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

If the fuel pump relay was bad wouldn't it also stop the fuel pump too?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

1fast2liter said:


> If the fuel pump relay was bad wouldn't it also stop the fuel pump too?
> 
> reply typed by trained monkeys


Freakin' hell this forum server is slow today 

To answer question. No. The Fuel pump relay has multiple functions and multiple contacts inside. One set of contacts ( IE: F/Pump) could be working while other contact is corroded or broken. Happens all the time.

Since you have 3 wire coils, do test the ICM. There is a step by step DIY in the FAQ's. BTW..ICM MUST have a heat-sink attached to it and good thermal compound. Otherwise they can fail due to overheating. 

AN ICM can fail and not throw a code.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I'll take a look. We're is it located? 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Never mine just looked they are 4 wire coils. I take it the fuel pump/multi contact relay is the one that's brown and like 4 inch long?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

How old is your fuel pump? They will sometimes just fail without notice. You can always pull it out, and clean the contact leads. I had a 1.8T friend where the terminals got corroded. Pulled the pump, used some steel wool/sand paper and was back on the road in 20 minutes. Just a thought :thumbup:


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Don't know. But as of right now I am not getting any spark. I have fuel. Replaced pump relay and still nothing. Anyone have a pin out for the coil harness?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Checked resistance between the new harness and old. Tested perfect. Their is a set of relays by the master cylinder one looks like the fuel pump relay and replaced it. It was fine. Their is one next to it. Anyine know what's it for?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Checked power to coils all have power think it's the out side purple and black wire. But no signals. So any other ideas? 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## RoTTirocket (Feb 8, 2007)

Could be a long shot but have you checked all your fuses? I remember taking out the fuse for the crank position sensor, and forgetting to put it back in, when I tried to fire up the car nothing happened. Popped the fuse back in and she fired right back up.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I didn't even know their was a cps fuse. Were?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## RoTTirocket (Feb 8, 2007)

Fusebox on the side of the driver side dash.


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## RoTTirocket (Feb 8, 2007)

I apologize, its not a cps sensor fuse, its the engine timing fuse. Just googled the image while in class


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ah ya checked it already. Lol

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Would the ignition switch cause this

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I can get a new one for 60 but if it's unlikely that this is the priblem. As far as we can tell it's getting power to the coils. But no spark. I am running iridium plugs. Cps is good. Got good compression across all 4 cylinders. Fuses look good. It ran fine till it was shut off then 5 hrs later no start. Vss was a thought but no problem with reading vehicle speed and does that even impact the ignition at all.? So I am left with either the ignition switch. Or their are 2 relays by the break master cylinder one looks like the fuel pump relay and the other is different. it's grey. Any one know what it is used for? Any other ideas as to what it could be. Any other sensor related to this? 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

The two relays under the hood by the rain tray are 100 (load reduction relay which activates the wipers, blower motor etc) The other is 428 (ECM/Power Supply Relay). If you suspect the, you can take them out and clean the prongs on them, see if that helps.

Are you sure you are getting no spark and definitely getting fuel?


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

No spark for sure. Their is fuel pressure. Not really sure to how to verify that injectors firing

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Will use out function in vag com and test injectors

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

going back a couple, you can have a bad power supply relay and still have the vehicle crank. from the ignition switch is a signal wire that goes straight to the starter solenoid. there is also a "constant hot" that feeds into the ignition, when you turn it to crank the constant hot passes through and straight to the starter solenoid, which kicks on and draws power directly from the battery to crank the motor.

you can get the motor to crank with no ECU. It won't do anything else (no fuel, no spark), but it will spin it. It's how you steal old muscle cars with mechanical engine control... just sayin'.

If a relay is frozen or internally damaged it may only be allowing power to pass through one path.

I'd double (triple?) check TDC on Cyl 1 using a dowel rod through the spark plug hole, then check the reference marks on the crank and cam to ensure it's right.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

edit: double posted


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ya timing is on checked that the other day. And I can read the ecu and do out put tests also

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Well I am wits end. I mite just have to take it to a shop and have it looked at. Can't afford to at this moment but no other choice. If anyone has any idea that will work I am willing to paypal them 50 bucks if their right. Just take in to consideration the rest of the post and what has been tried already

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Lol no takers. I'll up it to a c note if it works

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

At one point you mentioned


> As far as we can tell it's getting power to the coils.


. How was this determined? Did you test the voltage with a VOM to each coil with the ignition on to confirm that they are getting 12volts? 


I'm suspicious of the timing of the bump and the no ignition problem. I keep thinking that you have a broken or intermittent connection somewhere on the ground side ,trigger side or on the 12V side. Tracing back the complete ignition circuit with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter may be the only way to solve this.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Well I am seeing 12 v lots on the outside purple and black wire. Not sure we're all the grounds are on these cars. Any idea were they should be and I'll give it a look.

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Anyone else?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

No one wants a 100$ for telling me the right problem

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

1fast2liter said:


> No one wants a 100$ for telling me the right problem
> 
> reply typed by trained monkeys


We're not the amazing Kreskin here. Electrical problems can be very difficult to diagnose...especially when you're not there to physically check the car. :facepalm:


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Lol I know but at this point I'll take and suggestions

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## mr.ramsey (Apr 9, 2008)

Check the grounding terminal underneath the battery tray. Lot's of things are grounded there and it could be subject to corrosion. I'm not sure if that is the "Main" ground for the car but it's worth checking.


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

In the end it's probably going to turn out to be something really simple.... and you'll have a Homer moment DOH!! :laugh:

Problem is those really simple things can be a real PITA to find. 

Funny but true story that kind of relates to this...and also gives you an insight as to how Dealerships work.

I worked for many years at Nissan Dealerships as a Senior Partsman. We had an English mechanic who was a wizard at fixing electrical problems. 

With Warranty work, diagnostic time is not paid. You only get paid for repair and parts replacement. So finding things like shorts in a wiring harness can take hours to find...but only minutes to fix. He was amazing at finding shorts in circuits...almost like he had X-Ray vision.

No one could figure out how he did it, until one day he came to me and asked me to order some 50 AMP electrical fuses...but to keep it hush, hush and charge them to his Employee account. I got inquisitive and he told me his secret. Whenever he was dealing with an electrical short issue on Warranty work, if he couldn't find the problem within about 30 minutes, he would put a 50 amp fuse into the circuit...then sit back and wait for *" The smoke to come out "!!! *

It was pure genius. The wiring loom, ECU relay, motor..whatever.. would go up in a big plume of smoke and readily identify the problem area!! The parts were ruined but this didn't matter. As it was under warranty, you get paid for the replacement parts and the time to replace them. The Service Manager was happy, the Parts Manager was happy and most importantly...the long suffering Customer was happy. Bloody hilarious but brilliant!! :laugh: 

Edit: The guy did have morals though. He wouldn't do this if a customer was paying for non-warranty work :thumbup:


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## trixx (Dec 23, 2002)

just curious how you verified you're getting fuel? did do a fuel pressure or flow test or test the pump directly? 

my TT died on monday... similar symptoms and turned out it was the fuel pump.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Cause their is fuel pressure to the rail. And no spark. Even if pump died I would still get spark

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## trixx (Dec 23, 2002)

:thumbup:


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Without being there I am not sure how much help I can be. If you think it's a ground issue, you will have to trace them. The major one is under the battery tray and goes to alternator and starter. Also, make sure the tiny ground for the coilpacks is fixed in place and isn't broken somewhere (this ground here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/ottacee/IMG_4793.jpg yes, this is a different valve cover for bolt down audi coils but yours should be in the same place). Output test to fire the coilpack shows good and you can hear them clicking individually, then you probably have some other issue :thumbup:


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I only did injector tests. Not sure how to check output on coils. 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Grounds look to be ok

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

did you test them or just look at them. hard to diagnose a bad ground by staring at it...

There is a ground right on top of the VC that works with the coils. If I remember the stock location correctly, its around the N249 area.

constant 12V is not the same as the pulse signal, which is what you're missing. that I believe is a 5V that routes almost directly from the ECU to the coils.


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

Also, I don't have time to go back and reread everything, but you might try a new Crank sesnor. those things can keep a car from firing without throwing a code. And you can't test it accurately without a oscilloscope. It's a $20 part and a 10 minute replacement.


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Out of curiosity, can you bumpstart the car?


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

No tried bump starting it nothing. And already tried a new cps. Was the first tjing. And 20 for one were you get them the one I got was 109.

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Do you have a multimeter? What voltage is your coil pack showing? Key the ignition on and test the coil pack harness +12V pin to the coil pack harness valve cover ground point. What voltage does it show? Then with the key still to the second click, check the voltage from the battery positive to the battery negative. What voltage does it show? Lastly, with the key still to the second click check the voltage from the battery positive to the valve cover ground location. What voltage does it show?


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

What you described was like 13v or what ever but was the same for all

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Besides what is on the battery is their any other fusible links? 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

So mechanic says their is a cps signal also injectors will fire as well as crank using the diagnostic tool. Can't seem to find a short or bad ground. Says he is thinking it may be the ecu. How many of these eurodyne tapp bt ecu with the chip have blown at random? Like I said car ran and drove fine up to the point of parking it and turning it off

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Neb (Jan 25, 2005)

Have you tried contacting Tapp? I've never heard of it just randomly blowing like that


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

don't remember aexactly where but you got bent over at $109

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/audi-tt-crankshaft-position-sensor-2001.html

$30, took 3 seconds to google it. As an aside I buy parts from those guys a lot, generally they're close to the best price. As long as OEM isnt required anyway. Accurate descriptions and solid shipping times, though on big orders things tend to come in one at a time.


Check the pulse output signal from the ECU. should be pretty easy to find the pin number on a diagram, to see if the signal is leaving the ECU. 

have you checked the Fuel pump flow rate/pressure? not just that primes, but that it is flowing properly. You can read an injector pulse even if no fuel is fed to the injectors.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

The mechanic is checking that. But I'd a pump did die would that cause a no spark? 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## rstolz (Jun 16, 2009)

no, it wouldnt. But I'm not totally convinced you're getting no spark. Unless I missed it. A failed fuel pump can starve it of fuel.

Also , and this was mentioned once before, apparently a shorted Rear 02 sensor can fry an ECU, something about the Throttle drivers and the rear 02 on the same circuit.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

I am getting no spark at all. It's been tested and confirmed by a mechanic. Also no fuel. He's going to check pump and such. But their have been no shorts at all for the o2 at all. So still looking. 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Update. Fuel pumps are turning on and pressure is in system. No signal for spark or injector pulse. Not seeing or transmitting. Ecu didn't look or smell fried

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Anyone tell me does the cps run on a fuse or somthing? The cps itself is good but no idea if it's getting to ecu. 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

CPS does not have a fuse. Did you test it on another car?


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Didn't need to replaced with a new one and used a computer to check for signal

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

The CPS may still send a signal, but I have seen them go bad and they "do not read the correct rpms" or randomly jump around.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Well as said it was replaced with a brand new one and no change

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

1fast2liter said:


> Well as said it was replaced with a brand new one and no change
> 
> reply typed by trained monkeys


Cam position sensor? It does sound like a bad ecu


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

If it was the cam sensor it would still run. I hope not cause then it becomes why did it go. I just bought this ecu back in February from a guy on here started I p car In June and up till last month thing ran like a top.

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

I had a couple duff 5.9 ecus that caused alms sorts of messes. I think the o2 circuit can short and can burn up the ecu.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

That would be weird cause the guy I got it from ran it awhile then I did. I do have the Raceland wbo2 conversion. 

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Check out the o2 sensor, they can fry ecu's


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## TheDeckMan (Sep 26, 2004)

Check out the o2 sensor, they can fry ecu's


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

With one the front?

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ecu is bad. The resistor box took it out

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Resistor box??


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Yes I was running a high impedance injectors so had to run the injector box so as not to fry the ecu

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

1fast2liter said:


> Yes I was running a high impedance injectors so had to run the injector box so as not to fry the ecu
> 
> reply typed by trained monkeys


I think you have that backwards. Factory ECU's are high impedance according to USRT. 

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10_44_287

You must have been using low impedance injectors then had to add in resistance with the resistor box. Does that seem right? :beer:

Might be an idea to scrap the resistor box and run some 1000cc Genesis II injectors:

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10_44_287&sort=20a&page=2


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## Chickenman35 (Jul 28, 2006)

Quote from USRT:



> Injector Impedance:
> 
> It is also important to understand that fuel injectors come in two electrical flavors -high and low-impedance. VW ECUs require high-impedance but many standalone systems are equipped to manage the lows. The primary advantage of low-impedance injectors is their faster response time. (That is, the speed at which they can be turned on/off.) When very large injectors (e.g. >580cc) are fitted, low-impedance injectors are much easier to tune for proper idle quality and for use at extremely high rpms. The primary advantage of high-impedance injectors is the fact that less heat is generated in the drive circuit and thusly less complex/expensive circuitry is required. Again, if you have a VW ECU you absolutely must use high-impedance parts.


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

Ya. That's probably it. I run a box from a honda

reply typed by trained monkeys


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## 1fast2liter (Apr 4, 2005)

If I get a new ecu and have the chip put in it from the tapp ecu will I still have to have imobilizer defeated or should that be part of the chip

reply typed by trained monkeys


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