# #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire



## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

i was getting gas on my way to the CCSU car show and smoke started coming form the engine bay. It was coming from under the engine cover so i pulled it up and the #1 spark plug coil was on fire and smoking real bad. is started with the ignition off. so i disconected it and pulled it out and the right contact if your looking at the coild was black and melted and the contact had come off and was stuck in the plug on the wire harness. its at the dealership and they are "making sure my mods dont have anything to do with it" and also tryiung to find out why it happened. im thinking a defective part. but they want to make sure. so hopefully i wont run into any bumps with this and it will be taken care of under warrenty


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Amazing that they would be so petty over a $20 part.
Hope it gets fixed quickly.
Dave


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## ZWStewart (Mar 27, 2002)

*Re: (crew217)*


_Quote, originally posted by *crew217* »_Amazing that they would be so petty over a $20 part.
Hope it gets fixed quickly.
Dave

Wow, are they really that cheap?


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## wunderman4 (Apr 27, 2006)

*Re: (mk4driver22)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mk4driver22* »_
Wow, are they really that cheap?


yup they make um hard to work on then try to screw you


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## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

well the wire harness melted too, so that has to be replaced. and from what it looked like to me there is no disconect point there so its a whole new part, how much are the harnesses??


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

*Re: (axthomson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *axthomson* »_well the wire harness melted too, so that has to be replaced. and from what it looked like to me there is no disconect point there so its a whole new part, how much are the harnesses??

$86 
06f971082c
http://www.worldimpex.com/item...62615
Dave


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## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

so the parts are cheep, but im sure ill have to chop off my leg for the labor charges


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (axthomson)*

Oh ****, this just happened to my buddy's GLI tonight too!


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## Nurendra (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (axthomson)*

^^^ What Tom said.
Same freaking thing just happened to the GLI to the same #1 coil pack.








Smoke from the engine bay, electrical burn smell. The harness melted, the coil pack pins fused in there, and a hole burnt in the coil pack.










_Modified by Nurendra at 12:03 AM 10-10-2006_


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## 2zzge (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (Nurendra)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nurendra* »_^^^ What Tom said.
Same freaking thing just happened to the GLI to the same #1 coil pack.








Smoke from the engine bay, electrical burn smell. The harness melted, the coil pack pins fused in there, and a hole burnt in the coil pack.









_Modified by Nurendra at 12:03 AM 10-10-2006_

any mods on your friends car?


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (Nurendra)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nurendra* »_^^^ What Tom said.
Same freaking thing just happened to the GLI to the same #1 coil pack.








Smoke from the engine bay, electrical burn smell. The harness melted, the coil pack pins fused in there, and a hole burnt in the coil pack.









_Modified by Nurendra at 12:03 AM 10-10-2006_
 
What plugs are these two cars running? this could happen if the plug is a older type plug with a big center electrode and or the plug gap is larger . The reason for the above is that you need alot more spark energy and this puts more load on the coal pack.
Another possible cause is programing, what chip are these guys running? the same ? . If the combustion chamber is getting to Hot from running leaner this heat can transfer to the plug up through the coil pack over heating it ,also a leaner mixture is harder to fire . just a few things to check and keep and eye on.







Bob.G

edit to add
the #1 cylinder always has more timing correction compared to the rest ,even on stock programing so im assuming that cylinder runs leaner / flows better than the rest prob from the design . The 1.8T had a similar problem on one cylinder doing this also .



_Modified by rracerguy717 at 6:49 AM 10-10-2006_


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## Branman (Oct 6, 2004)

what mods do you guys have any similar ones????


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## crew219 (Oct 18, 2000)

Hmm . . . . just noticed that the OP is running REVO stage I . . . 
Sounds like we can account for the excess heat on cyl 1 & throughout the entire engine from my previous two threads:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2860775
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2865126
Not saying that the chip was the cause of the failure, but it seems though the REVO chip would have placed much more thermal load on all the engine components.
Dave


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## Nurendra (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: (Branman)*

Not really, here a few pics of what we were looking at last night.
Far pic of harness








Close up of right side of harness. On 2 GTI's this connection is pretty flush.
Here it's loose. I never really noticed that until this happened.








Harness at Coil #1








Pic of coil pack










_Modified by Nurendra at 4:25 PM 10-10-2006_


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (Nurendra)*

I can still smell the ozone smell from last night


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## rracerguy717 (Apr 8, 2003)

*Re: (Nurendra)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nurendra* »_Not really, here a few pics of what we were looking at last night.

 
Check the coil pack where it push's on the plug and see if there is any signs of spark jumping or the metal dis-colored. Maybe that coil pack wasnt pushed down all the way oand it poped up and the spark had to jump that gap causing overheating .







Bob.G




_Modified by rracerguy717 at 8:22 AM 10-10-2006_


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## Nurendra (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: (rracerguy717)*

See the other end of the coil pack. It looks a bit discolored inside and outside. Right?


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## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

mine burned exactly the same way. harness looks the same melted and so does the coil pack. but the deal says that i broke some clips pulling the harness off to i have to pay for the work. which i guess makes sense, but doesnt..


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## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

also my revo settings are 9, 4, 7


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## DubGray1.8T (Sep 24, 2003)

*Re: (axthomson)*

Def a coil issue. I have seen at least two 2.5 liter's do it and one 1.8T. All looked the same. The coils short out some how. I am guessing water since two had signs of it in the plug. I am a tech at the dealer so.....


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (crew217)*


_Quote, originally posted by *crew217* »_
$86 
06f971082c
http://www.worldimpex.com/item...62615
Dave


Do you have a part number for the coil?? Dealer is telling my friend 2 MONTH BACKORDER!!


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## HYPERGUY710 (Feb 14, 2005)

*Re: (crew217)*


_Quote, originally posted by *crew217* »_
$86 
06f971082c
http://www.worldimpex.com/item...62615
Dave

thats the injector harness, not the coil harness. coil harness is 06f971824c and is ONLY 13.45.

_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_

Do you have a part number for the coil?? Dealer is telling my friend 2 MONTH BACKORDER!!









07k905715a have 1 in la pdc
07k905715b have over 1000 in the us
07k905715c backorder
good thing is they're all the same part. you can use any of these coils in your car.


_Modified by HYPERGUY710 at 9:53 AM 10-11-2006_


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (HYPERGUY710)*

Sweet, thanks!!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## Nurendra (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: (HYPERGUY710)*

I just found 7 of the 'c' ones at a dealer 25 miles away.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (Nurendra)*

Told ya it was worth looking


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## axthomson (Jul 8, 2006)

so its like less than 50 dollars in parts. makes me so angry, if it was a old fasioned spark plug system this wouldnt be an issue, like coils in the wire would be better... probobly would have never had an issue with melting..


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (axthomson)*

# days ago the exact same thing happened to my car......What was the final fix and how much did the dealre run you????? my cars in the shop now


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (liltrip1.8T)*

only difference between me and you is the one that burnt out was the plug the the right but looked exactly the same exact same wire did the melting


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (liltrip1.8T)*

so you know to have it done at the dealer is like 450-500


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: #1 ignition coil melted/ Caught on fire (liltrip1.8T)*


_Quote, originally posted by *liltrip1.8T* »_so you know to have it done at the dealer is like 450-500

I hope you are not paying to have it fixed unless you are out of warranty.
not that something like this is an everyday occurance, but it certainly has nothing to do with any kind of modifications.
I have seen it on just about every different vw/audi coil over plug setup over the past 6+years.


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## Tom16v (Apr 7, 2003)

*Re: (DubGray1.8T)*

I've also seen one stock 2.5 5cyl jetta do this. I dunno if anyone realizes this but the coils have constant power, and by constant power I mean even when the key is off. I'd say the coil crapped out and the harness melted, nothing to do with the chip or anything else. Best of luck with you car.


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## thomaschh (May 30, 2006)

What I think is most ridiculous about this is that the dealer is probably spending a number of hours "investigating whether the mods contributed" rather than just fixing the damn problem. It's stupid - they're making money either way.


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (thomaschh)*


_Quote, originally posted by *thomaschh* »_What I think is most ridiculous about this is that the dealer is probably spending a number of hours "investigating whether the mods contributed" rather than just fixing the damn problem. It's stupid - they're making money either way.

Not really wasting anytime. Most techs who do have problems with mods see them and then instantly just stop working and blame any problems found on the modifications. The rest who don't care aren't wasting any time since they just fix it.
As for the money, yes they do make money eitherway but it varies a great deal. Vw/Audi pays less time for each job warranty then a cash customer and on top of that pays less per hour. So if a job pays 2 hours warranty it pays 3 hours cash. If the shop rate is 100 an hour, they get paid 75 an hour warranty.
so a dealer stands to take in 150 bucks warranty or 300 cash.. Thats twice as much if you pay vs warranty... and alot less paperwork and other workthat must be done,like storing old warranty parts till they are called for then shipping them back.
Parts are also discounted when sold for warranty work.
The tech would then also be losing an hour to do the exact same job.
So money for the dealer and the tech is going to be higher. And that is ignoring diagnostic time. Vw/audi don't really pay for diag anymore. For hooking up a scan tool cash and looking at the problem for 10 seconds most dealers are going to charge an hour. So now they may 400 instead of 150...


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: (PD Performance)*

well just so you know i had my car towed to eip because when mine fried it burned up my ECU the dealer said it takes 6 hours to replace a coil pack and wanted 1500 to replace that and my ECU EIP did both for like 400 go figure and the dealer said mine wasnt under warranty either they keep saying i started the fire buy working on the coil pack when all i did was replace the old one after it caught fire........Thye just dont seem to understand that it caught fire before i touched the car i have 3 recipts that staet i started the fire. And they say that the parts I bought cost like 120 when i got them all for like like 70 bucks form the same dealer the day before. When i came back i whoed them the burnt coil pack the recipts for my parts. So what did they do told me I was a liar and those parts could never have come from them adn the recipt that said Russel VW right on the top same paper as the recipts they gave me for the car for there work......So tell me how Fed up that is.....


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## thomaschh (May 30, 2006)

*Re: (liltrip1.8T)*

Call VWOA - that's BS.


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## liltrip1.8T (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: (thomaschh)*

Friebd of the family works for VW for the last like 20 years he is looking into it...


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (thomaschh)*

This is easy to fix if you have a soldering iron, or know someone who does. PM Nurendra and ask for the part numbers for the plug, the four wire pieces, and the coil... then you open the plastic harness, cut the wires leading to the burnt plug, solder on the new wires (be sure to use some heat shink tubing to reinsulate each), connect up the new plug, and put it all back together with the new coil. Its less than an hour of work, and about $50-60 in parts IIRC (I was the one who repaired Nurendra's after the dealer quoted him over $300 for the repair).
EDIT: disconnect the battery before you play with any of those wires though







and once you're done, if the car still won't start, check the fuses in the engine bay http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

















_Modified by digitalhippie at 5:59 PM 12-29-2006_


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_This is easy to fix if you have a soldering iron, or know someone who does. PM Nurendra and ask for the part numbers for the plug, the four wire pieces, and the coil... then you open the plastic harness, cut the wires leading to the burnt plug, solder on the new wires (be sure to use some heat shink tubing to reinsulate each), connect up the new plug, and put it all back together with the new coil. Its less than an hour of work, and about $50-60 in parts IIRC (I was the one who repaired Nurendra's after the dealer quoted him over $300 for the repair).

No auto manufacture especially VW/Audi condones soldering of any kind for a wiring repair.
Wiring repairs should ONLY ever be done using crimp connections that have heat shrink casings built into them.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_No auto manufacture especially VW/Audi condones soldering of any kind for a wiring repair.
Wiring repairs should ONLY ever be done using crimp connections that have heat shrink casings built into them.


ROFL








Said it before, I'll say it again... its your car, do what you want.
IMHO (and the electronics/computer engineer degree would have absolutely nothing to do with this







) - I'd be a lot more comfortable with soldered wires than crimped. Lot of vibration/etc, and I know a good clean solder joint isn't going anywhere.
So what's the manufacter's concern? Heat damaging the wire harness or other electronics? I could see that in close quarters, but the ignition harness is fairly long... using the appropriate lower wattage soldering iron, the heated part of the wire never got past the ignition harness (ie. the wire to the right of where I was working was still cool). Had I been working in a closer area where I might be concerned, I would use heat sinks on the wire like any smart EE/CE would do.
Besides... VW's piece of crap burned out in the first place... if they're telling you they won't warranty it now... what's the chance they're going to warranty it the next time it happens?? lol
And.... if you do use crimps to fix the 4 wires... good luck getting the plastic cover back on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by digitalhippie at 6:08 PM 12-29-2006_


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_

ROFL









IMHO (and the electronics/computer engineer degree would have absolutely nothing to do with this







) - I'd be a lot more comfortable with soldered wires than crimped. Lot of vibration/etc, and I know a good clean solder joint isn't going anywhere.


And you don't think the people who design the vehicles and come up with the repair procedures have engineering degrees?? Being a little coneited aren't we? (really not sure why your CE/EE degree needs to come up in every other post anyway).
Sorry if you don't like it but you posted misinformation about properly repairing a vehicle wiring harness. Facts are facts and a properly done crimp connection is a better circuit then a soldered connection. The reason most people don't do well with crimp connections is poor tools and cheap crimps. A good crimp connector costs 2-5 bucks each, most people use ones that cost 10 cents each.
I would post up the article from an independent source which tested Vw/Audis repair proceduers and agreed that they were superior to solder connections but then you'd just call VW again saying I stole their information.
If you look at any factory wiring harness you will not find one single solder connection in the entire thing.
but hey what does VW know about fixing their own vehicles....


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*

found it hosted elsewhere..
http://www.audifans.com/twiki/...older
And some other stuff:

_Quote »_Though the average person intuitively might suspect that most electrical connections are soldered, that suspicion is far from accurate. In reality, most modern vehicle electrical circuits rely upon crimp terminals rather than solder to make the wire-to-wire and wire-to-component electrical connections. And with good reason. Crimp terminals are inexpensive, make a secure mechanical connection, retain the flexibility and electrical conductivity of the wires to which they are affixed, are resistant to vibration, allow for visual inspection, do not damage adjacent wires or circuits, are light weight, and lend themselves to assembly line applications. A proper crimp “cold welds” the wires to the connector. A weld is stronger than solder.

http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_01.asp
It is also my understanding but too much jibberish on the internet but aircrafts must also use crimp connections and not solder joints for all the same reasons as with cars.



_Modified by PD Performance at 3:43 PM 12/29/2006_


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

wow, an argument among giants.
with my magnificent EE degree, i'd agree with PD only because that region of your motor COULD reach temperatures hot enough to melt if not soften the solder joints.
As to PD's quote, lol, i just couldn't get past "cold weld". A cold weld is stronger than a solder connection? The first falacy starts with the very idea of a cold weld.
The reason large companies do not allow soldering is much simpler than PD would like to admit. In his profession, there is way way too much inconsistancy in quality of work. That and time are enough to convince any sane maintenance manager to choose a two second connection by crimp than a several minute connection by solder.
lol, hilarious.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_Said it before, I'll say it again... its your car, do what you want.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_(really not sure why your CE/EE degree needs to come up in every other post anyway).

Nice exaggeration there, as I've told you before, get over yourself. You seem to like stalking my posts to complain about something... knock yourself out...
I really don't care what you think is right or wrong, I stated my opinion... and I even stated that it was my opinion. If you don't understand the word "opinion", might I suggest http://www.m-w.com


_Modified by digitalhippie at 8:13 PM 12-29-2006_


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_Facts are facts and a properly done crimp connection is a better circuit then a soldered connection.

Assuming the person crimping the connection is using the proper crimping tools, not trying to hack it with a pair of pliers (as most people on this forum probably would, since the majority don't work in electronics on a regular basis).


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote »_retain the flexibility

I really find that hard to believe... I have yet to see any crimp that is more flexible than a solder joint... where the two wires actually meet is still going to be rigid.


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## T62 (Jun 15, 2006)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*

Well, honestly I'd take the soldier connection and heat shriked first. BUT, the reason why crimps are used is exactly what Mag said. Inconsisency. 
We have trouble with techs not making a mess of an oil change, loosing the plastic bolts, getting oil places, honestly soldiering is a nightmare waiting to happen for the common shop.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_The reason large companies do not allow soldering is much simpler than PD would like to admit. In his profession, there is way way too much inconsistancy in quality of work. That and time are enough to convince any sane maintenance manager to choose a two second connection by crimp than a several minute connection by solder.

You're probably 100% right there... PD just likes to stalk me because I didn't give him adequate credit for stealing an image from someone else.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (T62)*


_Quote, originally posted by *T62* »_We have trouble with techs not making a mess of an oil change, loosing the plastic bolts, getting oil places, honestly soldiering is a nightmare waiting to happen for the common shop.

Which is why I do all my own work


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## syntrix (Aug 20, 2000)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*

so what's the point of the last 10 or so posts?


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: (syntrix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *syntrix* »_so what's the point of the last 10 or so posts?


We were discussing repair ideas for the problem presented in this thread.


_Modified by magilson at 8:23 PM 12-29-2006_


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## Nurendra (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: (syntrix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *syntrix* »_so what's the point of the last 10 or so posts?

Well, we've concluded that crimping collars on kittens (instead of soldering collars on them







) is of a consistent better quality when done by 'factory trained' VW techs.
Not that the crimped kitten collar is better, just that the quality of the installed crimp is of better quality than the soldered kitten collar.


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## syntrix (Aug 20, 2000)

*Re: (Nurendra)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Nurendra* »_Well, we've concluded that crimping collars on kittens (instead of soldering collars on them







) is of a consistent better quality when done by 'factory trained' VW techs.
Not that the crimped kitten collar is better, just that the quality of the installed crimp is of better quality than the soldered kitten collar.









I'd never solder a collar on a kitten. That's just cruel. LOL
I forgot, is this a tech forum?


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (syntrix)*


_Quote, originally posted by *syntrix* »_I forgot, is this a *kitten* forum?



























_Modified by digitalhippie at 1:10 AM 12-30-2006_


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_with my magnificent EE degree, i'd agree with PD only because that region of your motor COULD reach temperatures hot enough to melt if not soften the solder joints.

ok, but after re-reading... I have to respond to this...
this is a quote from a soldering iron manufacturer: 
_Quote »_The iron is available in fixed temperatures of 750, 800 or 850 Fahrenheit at 25W, 30W or 35W power

and here's another quote about soldering: 
_Quote »_Solder flows at a fairly low temperature, around 360-370 degrees Fahrenheit

So you're saying the wiring harness, running to the ignition coils, located on the top of the engine is going to be subject to temperatures in excess of 350F? I highly doubt that.
Keep in mind the temp gauge on the dash usually hangs around 190F, and that's the coolant running THROUGH the engine (boiling point for coolant mix is somewhere around 220-240F range IIRC)










_Modified by digitalhippie at 1:28 AM 12-30-2006_


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_
The reason large companies do not allow soldering is much simpler than PD would like to admit. In his profession, there is way way too much inconsistancy in quality of work. That and time are enough to convince any sane maintenance manager to choose a two second connection by crimp than a several minute connection by solder.


I'd actually disagree with both of those, as you pointed out being in this line of work I deal with it all the time.
The biggest complaint people have about crimps is that they do not hold up. While everyone says solder always works. Wouldn't that put the inconsistancy on the crimped connection not solder?
Also doing the crimp connectin correctly takes no less time then doing a solder connection. I've done both plenty of time.


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_
I really find that hard to believe... I have yet to see any crimp that is more flexible than a solder joint... where the two wires actually meet is still going to be rigid.

Then you are not using the proper crimp connections and would only further make it clear why you don't understand why this is better.
With a proper crimp, the actual hardware not the process. You have a metal tube encased in a heat shrink tube which is generally 4Xs as thick as any heat shrink tubing for solder that is used, it also is filled with a heat activated sealer. Once you crimp the wire in place and you heat shrink it the casing becomes the flex point. Since this casing is much thicker and it has the sealer it does not bend as much, but does allow for flex. It is similar to an electronic device that has the ribbed flex section where the power cord meets the machine.
With a solder connection once the shrink tubing is done you have very little in the ways of flex protection. And as those articles pointed out, unlike how you felt, the solder joint is more likely to fail from vibration then a crimped one.


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## PD Performance (Jul 1, 2004)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_

So you're saying the wiring harness, running to the ignition coils, located on the top of the engine is going to be subject to temperatures in excess of 350F? I highly doubt that.


I did not say the solder would melt. But for the sake of pointing out facts.
The top of your engine located only inches from your turbocharger that does exceed the coolant temps.
There was actually a problem on middle run 1.8ts where the rubber on the outside fo the wires was melting and cracking. 225TTs came with heat resistant covering for the coil pack wires.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_Then you are not using the proper crimp connections and would only further make it clear why you don't understand why this is better.

Oh? Then I guess the VW PARTS are not proper crimps??
Thanks for proving my point! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_I did not say the solder would melt. But for the sake of pointing out facts.

Hey bozo, look who I quoted... it wasn't you... and I never said YOU said that









_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_The top of your engine located only inches from your turbocharger that does exceed the coolant temps.

ROFL again, its not getting above 350F there... how bout you stick a temp probe there for a week and let me see those readings? $1000 says it never exceeds 350F.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_You have a metal tube encased in a heat shrink tube which is generally 4Xs as thick as any heat shrink tubing for solder that is used

Again, thanks for proving my point! The VW crimps are LARGE... try fitting four of those crimps in that wire harness... and still be able to close the plastic cover on the wires when you're done.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_And as those articles pointed out, unlike how you felt, the solder joint is more likely to fail from vibration then a crimped one.


Actually, you're first "article" (and I use that term loosely, because wiki entries do not ARTICLES make) mentions nothing about solder being weak to vibration. And you're second "arcticle" only says:

_Quote »_A soldered connection will be less flexible than the original stranded wire, and may weaken over time due to vibration.

Which is really not a "fact", its an "opinion"...
Again, let me direct you to http://www.m-w.com


_Modified by digitalhippie at 11:46 AM 12-30-2006_


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (PD Performance)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PD Performance* »_The top of your engine located only inches from your turbocharger that does exceed the coolant temps.

Umm, last time I checked, the coolant still ran through the turbo... and the coolant still has a boiling point less than 300F. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
And I'm done with this one, thanks for helping me make my point! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_
So you're saying the wiring harness, running to the ignition coils, located on the top of the engine is going to be subject to temperatures in excess of 350F? I highly doubt that.
Keep in mind the temp gauge on the dash usually hangs around 190F, and that's the coolant running THROUGH the engine (boiling point for coolant mix is somewhere around 220-240F range IIRC)









_Modified by digitalhippie at 1:28 AM 12-30-2006_

That's all well and good, but it ignores the syptoms of the original problem, wich is the complete "meltdown" of the #1 coil wiring, harness, etc. A.K.A. it got hot, and really hot.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_That's all well and good, but it ignores the syptoms of the original problem, wich is the complete "meltdown" of the #1 coil wiring, harness, etc. A.K.A. it got hot, and really hot.


The coil is failing, not the wiring... what I saw, it was the coil that actually broke. There were no signs of heat damage to the wiring harness or even the plastic cover for the wiring harness. The coil burnt, and that melted the PLUG on the COIL. And the fact that these coils are poor equipment doesn't prove that the engine temperatures under normal conditions will melt solder as you originally suggested.


_Modified by digitalhippie at 1:18 PM 12-30-2006_


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_

The coil is failing, not the wiring... what I saw, it was the coil that actually broke. There were no signs of heat damage to the wiring harness or even the plastic cover for the wiring harness. The coil burnt, and that melted the PLUG on the COIL. And the fact that these coils are poor equipment doesn't prove that the engine temperatures under normal conditions will melt solder as you originally suggested.

_Modified by digitalhippie at 1:18 PM 12-30-2006_

From the evidence presented it looked (to me) like the plug on the harness was damaged as well.


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## syntrix (Aug 20, 2000)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_From the evidence presented it looked (to me) like the plug on the harness was damaged as well.

Looks that way, or at least melty! Were any kittens harmed when this happened?


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## Nurendra (Feb 6, 2001)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_From the evidence presented it looked (to me) like the plug on the harness was damaged as well.

The plug was damaged on the coilpack side. 2 wires had to be replaced, along with the plug and the coilpack. But the damage originated from the coil pack which then resulted in damage to the plug. 
BTW, to address the crimp/solder argument. The repair used the parts list that the dealer was going to use if they had done it and no crimps were listed. So go ahead and 'assume' that the dealer was going to use parts not listed in the R.O.
I have no interest in beating a horse that has been dead for several months AND in harming any more kittens.


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## digitalhippie (Apr 21, 2004)

*Re: (magilson)*


_Quote, originally posted by *magilson* »_From the evidence presented it looked (to me) like the plug on the harness was damaged as well.

Try reading...

_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_The coil burnt, and that melted the PLUG on the COIL.

And, again, that still doesn't support your original suggestion that the temps above the engine could melt solder...
Really, I think we're done here.
*PLEASE, WON'T SOMEBODY THINK OF THE KITTENS?*


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## syntrix (Aug 20, 2000)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*

So ultimately the kitten got burnt? I'm calling the SPCA. http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


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## magilson (Apr 18, 2005)

*Re: (digitalhippie)*


_Quote, originally posted by *digitalhippie* »_
Try reading...
And, again, that still doesn't support your original suggestion that the temps above the engine could melt solder...
Really, I think we're done here.
*PLEASE, WON'T SOMEBODY THINK OF THE KITTENS?*

Easy killer, just looking at the pictures. No one really cares how you fix your car anyway.


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