# DIY Refinishing Wheels



## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

_Modified by GreyCloud at 12:57 PM 5-14-2009_


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## A2Carat (Jan 13, 2003)

*Re: DIY Refinishing Wheels (GreyCloud)*

Hey, nice job on the wheels and the write-up. Thanks for taking the time. 
I polished up a set of wheels for my 85 GLH (Omni). Took me 15+hours each. I used greaseless compounds and various buffing wheels. From raw aluminum look, it when through various stages but ended up as mirrors. Hard work, as you know first hand, but the end results just seem to make you smile.







Good job!


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

Hey A2Carat thanks for the compliment. Yeah it was a bit work, but like you said in the end it all pays off.
Post up your polished set I'd like to see them.
Which compound works well or the best in your opinion?


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## Motown_Dub (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

Great work, and excellent write up. One of these days I'll take on a project like this.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Thanks again


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

hey judging from the spider scratches it almost looks like you might not have spent enough time in the rougher grits really smoothing it all out. Im doing my bbs lips at the moment and found out the more time you take on the earlier phases the better it comes out in the end. Heres a pic from the lip i finished last night...


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

Nice job stealthmk3.
Actually the spider scratches are from the "Black & Decker coarse wire brush" when I removed the paint. It worked a bit more than what I wanted to hence why I should have use the "fine" brush instead. Ya learn is all I can say.


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

def man, the more experience the better http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
lets just say that the first thing i polished.... looked anything but pretty haha. You live, you learn. and hey, it cant hurt to redo it if your not happy with it after awhile








edit: and after figuring out that the drill bit brushes most of the time do more harm then good, i now hand polish everything


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## porschekid962 (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (stealthmk3)*

Stripping paint is a pita especially wheels. There are a host of wild paint strippers available, I have found that aircraft paint stripper is some of the best, also the most toxic and harmful. Also, if you scuff the painted surface lightly before you apply the stripper it will soak into the paint and do a better job. Instead of a wire wheel on a drill you can use abrasive pads from 3M. You need to get a roloc adapter to put into your drill or air grinder and the disc simply twists on 1/4 turn. They come in a myriad of abrasive grits but I have found that the red (maroon color) and green discs are the best with green giving a slight polish. 3M also sells what I would call "finger" discs, they are rubber discs with many fingers sticking out with abrasive compound embedded in the rubber. They are a bit finer and do nice pre finish work. For the polishing compound I have found that Mothers is best for a final polish and that Wenol in red and blue tubes works great for the initial polish. Just some stuff I learned refinishing my dads Fuchs wheels years ago. 
Just giving some suggestions for those who want to try this in the future, great write up, I have never had the patience to do a write up myself.
If I ever get around to polishing my fat fives I will post up but I am thinking of shot peening and anodizing them.


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## blazerpounds (Mar 19, 2008)

*Re: (porschekid962)*

those wheels look sooooo much easier to do than my santa monicas..... i hate that little lip! Good work though, definitely second ya on NOT using a wire brush, it just makes it seem easy until you gotta start sanding the pits by hand. I started using the paint and oxidation removers, and even tough they cost more, (4.00 each, and about 2 per wheel) its makes your life so much easier.
the stripper i been using is the same brand, just the heavier grade stuff, its the kleen strip ks3, and works awesome. 
Ive been working on mine a total of about 10-12 hours now and just last night fially got all the god - awful primer off. 
Cant wait to see em mounted, you might see mine here soon!
good job man


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## gregvh (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (blazerpounds)*

Nice nice http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif wire brush kinda killed it though ey. I have done 2 out of 4 of my p slots and instead of wire brush I used 60 grit on a orbital sander and didnt leave any scratches. There is a good DIY somewhere i read saying you should always change directions when changing sandpaper grits so you always get the last scratches out with the higher grit. So in your case you should have never moved on from the 120 grit until the wire brush marks were gone IMO. Still looks a million times better though http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

gregvh yeah you are so correct. I should have busted my a$$ more and not moved onto the 220 grit from the 180 grit and until all the scratches were gone. Oh well....
blazerpounds trust me bro...if the wheels were something more than 5 stars type of wheels I wouldn't even bother. I like the challenge but that would take so long ....and my patience is so thin...haha

porschekid962 that is a good point in regards to scuffing the paint prior to the stripper. I'm sure that would have made a difference in the complete removal. I think it working through the clear coat, paint and primer is hard and it can only work but so much for incredible results. It's a good thing they are just Denvers!


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

***** Update for ALL. Don't use a wire brush to remove the paint from your wheels!







*****











_Modified by GreyCloud at 6:40 PM 3-20-2009_


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

you can use one, you just have to work harder in the end with like 100grit to fix it lol


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## gregvh (Jun 28, 2007)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GreyCloud* »_gregvh yeah you are so correct. I should have busted my a$$ more and not moved onto the 220 grit from the 180 grit and until all the scratches were gone. Oh well....


Someone that can actually take constructive criticism http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I must not be in the mk3 forum







You got me motivated and I spent a couple hours palm sanding my other p slots so Here is a beer for you







BTW I got the same scratches on my first polished rim luckily I had only did one so I started over again... seems like you can only learn from your own mistakes


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

gregvh I'm glad that I could get you motivated without trying! Yes I can take the criticism ...after all we are on vortex to have fun and learn a thing or two from one another. 
And actually I did them one at a time as well, however I used the brush on all 4 prior to any sanding. (The wheels are perfect until you look at them from a foot away...haha)
Cheers


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

Yea we are here for fun and help with problems... But the problem is that soooo many people on here are soo close minded, un-helpful, and sometime straight up a-holes. But you will def find that what goes around comes around and a good attitude gets noticed around here. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## jeepnut27 (Feb 26, 2006)

They look 100% better than the OE painted versions!!!!
Any suggestions instead of the wire wheels???


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks jeepnut27 I appreciate that. Yeah I said the same thing. In my opinion this is how they should be instead of the OE paint! So they aren't perfect....but I still like them quite a bit.
Cheers


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

Jeepnut27 to answer your question, I really don't know. The only thing I can think of is after the stripper find the lowest grit sandpaper possible like 80 grit and get major busy to remove ALL of the primer. From that point move onto 180, 220, etc.


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## porschekid962 (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

I dont know why I didnt mention this before. Along with all the really nasty boat paint stripper, aircraft paint stripper and other hardware store stuff take a trip to your local paint supply shop. If you cant find one call up a bodyshop and ask them where they buy their supplies from or if you could buy some UR40. They will know what you are talking about, the stuff will dry your skin out faster than anything so wear some gloves. Its really watery stuff, just put it on a rag and keep wiping and wiping it works great one paint (color) and primer, some clear coats are pretty tough.
Also just found it in the garage, thinking of stripping the fat fives later on but POR-15 makes a two part non acidic paint stripper called POR-STRIP
http://www.ketone.com/proddeta...t=267


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

porschekid962 good info bro. This is definitely worth looking into for any future wheel projects. I am always open to new ideas making this task a lot smoother.
The clear coat and the paint wasn't the issue. It's the damn primer that was really in there deep. Not sure if it's because they are Ronals or that is just standard primer that is applied to base wheels.


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## porschekid962 (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

Most automotive primer is simply that, primer. There are certain companies that might spec an etching primer, high build or just normal, I think the reason the primer was the hardest to remove is the surface finish might not have been that good. I know some people poo poo this but the next time you strip some wheels call up your local powdercoater and ask how much it would be to walnut shell blast the paint off a set of wheels. The more spokes or more intricate the design the more expensive but it saves a ton of time and gives a rather nice surface to start polishing from. I am seriously considering refinishing a set of fat fives I am about to buy/have bought, long story.
Anyway I have a couple of ideas for them and all require prior stripping. Thinking of going polished for a while but know it wont last. Not a huge fan of powdercoated fat fives and looking to do something different so I might end up hard anodizing them slate grey or matte black. Still have to strip them so this is what I think I am going to do.
Step one: Wash, clean and scrub the hell out of them, if I can talk my buddy into letting me use his mounter/dismounter, the tyres are coming off.
Step two: wait for nasty tyre air smell to go away.
Step three: With around 400 grit sandpaper I am going to lightly scratch, rough up the clear coat in the circular pattern from the polished metal underneath.
Step four: Soak a couple rags in UR40 and begin wiping from the center towards the outside one "spoke" at a time making sure the "melting" clearcoat does not get reapplied to virgin metal.
Step five: Keep wiping and wiping with the UR40, if the clear is too tough then I will switch to the POR-Strip.
Step six: I get lucky here because the fat fives are somewhat polished already however the insets between the spokes are still rough, not sure if I want to polish that area or not yet. We will see how many mistakes I make when I get around to this. I have seen pictures of well polished fat fives and I think they look awesome. I just know that upkeep of polished wheels is a pita. Let you all know when I actually do this.


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

Voila!!


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

stealthmk3 was there any primer underneath that red paint? It doesn't appear so.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (porschekid962)*

If I was to take on another project similiar to this I will probably invest more time to get it done 100% right.
And yes I dread having to polish these mofos in the middle of July. I don't have a garage...


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

_Modified by GreyCloud at 8:11 AM 4-5-2009_


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GreyCloud* »_stealthmk3 was there any primer underneath that red paint? It doesn't appear so.

actually yes, it went Clearcoat, Red paint, gold primer, clearcoat, Metal.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (stealthmk3)*

Word? Hmmm good work. Major kudos.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

_Modified by GreyCloud at 12:57 PM 5-14-2009_


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## archangel_jx (Apr 2, 2009)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

did you use any type of protectant on the wheels to prevent rust or corosion? (sorry if this is a stupid question)


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (archangel_jx)*

There are no stupid questions here on vortex.








No I didn't use any form of protection, i.e. clear coat. If I did I would not have the shine that you see. I guess you could apply it but there are sacrifices involved with doing so....
Overall bare aluminum can be a task to maintain, but I've been reading elsewhere and people are stating that if you keep up on it, the job isn't that bad.


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*FV-QR*


_Quote, originally posted by *archangel_jx* »_did you use any type of protectant on the wheels to prevent rust or corosion? (sorry if this is a stupid question)


i was just thinking the exact same thing after the opening post.


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Re: FV-QR (fourie_marius)*

yea, if you keep it polished/clean. theres noway rust can form http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## 4ePikanini (Aug 29, 2007)

*FV-QR*

rust can form on a mirror finish


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

I think they will corrode if not managed well, but I don't think they will rust. I might be wrong ...

http://www.poleringsguide.se/polishing-guide-2/
very helpful info...incredible shine.


_Modified by GreyCloud at 10:06 AM 4-6-2009_


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## KelOne333 (May 15, 2002)

alum won't rust. oxidize yes, no rust. keep'em waxed and you shouldn't hafta clear coat them


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (KelOne333)*

Thanks bro...yeah I just read something online elsewhere about waxing/protecting them. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## KelOne333 (May 15, 2002)

*Re: DIY Refinishing Wheels (GreyCloud)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GreyCloud* »_










sweet!, they come in cans now?
nice write up. that's the stuff we used to use on bike frames and wheels, and triple clamps, subframes, rearsets, pass peg brackets, .... lotsa polishing. 
looks nice. should make this sticky. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

I was actually doing some research this morning on vibratory tumbler polishing, and I came across this stuff from POR 15 being recommended for highly polished wheels: http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/








Personally, I've heard nothing but good things about all POR 15 products.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (ClownTrigger)*

Appears to be a worthy experiment however the wheels are already mounted and it's recommended that they aren't touched for a few days for it to reach it's full hardening potential.
Come this November I will look into when they are in my storage. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 







for you


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## KelOne333 (May 15, 2002)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

the problem with a 2 stage chemical like that (and even single stage clears), is that if not done perfect, and dried quickly, you'll get a slight cloudiness. not all over, but in spots (which is worse). there's a good chance that not every wheel will look 100% like the wheel before it. 
this is why i always stick to wax when polishing alum. give it a good buffing a couple times a season and yer good to go. and in between use the Snap-On pink cotton candy metal polish.


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## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: (KelOne333)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KelOne333* »_ in between use the Snap-On pink cotton candy metal polish. 

Snap-On makes it now? Is it the same as X-treem? Or whatever it was called. That stuff is impossible to find anymore.


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## KelOne333 (May 15, 2002)

snap-on's made it for years...but they never advertise it. the only place i've ever gotten it is straight off the snapon truck. 
unless of course you wanna buy in bulk. that's a four-lifetime supply. i had one can for four years and EVERYTHING was polished on my old 900RR. 
hell, i'll buy a can if you get the 12-pack.








http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog


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## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: (KelOne333)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KelOne333* »_snap-on's made it for years...

Is it the same as this stuff?








It's also pink and cotton candy like. I'll have to make a visit to the snap-on guy.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog
Dang somewhat expensive. And yes 1 can will suffice.


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

after 2000grit a few times, i do a couple buffs with this:









then a few buffs in this:








and it comes out like this:


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## KelOne333 (May 15, 2002)

*Re: (ClownTrigger)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ClownTrigger* »_
Is it the same as this stuff?








It's also pink and cotton candy like. I'll have to make a visit to the snap-on guy.









they were giving out that stuff in little "single serving" sample packs at Laguna Seca a few years back. it was yellow cotton candy type. it didn't seem to last as long or be as moist as the snapon stuff. 
i swear by the snapon polish.


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## ClownTrigger (Aug 30, 2006)

*Re: (KelOne333)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KelOne333* »_they were giving out that stuff in little "single serving" sample packs at Laguna Seca a few years back. it was yellow cotton candy type. it didn't seem to last as long or be as moist as the snapon stuff. 
i swear by the snapon polish. 

That's the new version. You're right, it isn't that good. The older stuff was pink and was incredible.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (stealthmk3)*

So which do you think is better? the Mother's Polish or the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound/Compounds?


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## KelOne333 (May 15, 2002)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GreyCloud* »_So which do you think is better? the Mother's Polish or the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound/Compounds?

apples and oranges. 
you'd use the rubbing compound first as it has some 'grit' to it, this will pick up where your 0000 steel wool or 2000 sandpaper leaves off, then you would use the polish as the next/final step. 
after that is when you'd use your protectant wax.


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (KelOne333)*

Ah...gotcha. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Re: (KelOne333)*


_Quote, originally posted by *KelOne333* »_
...after that is when you'd use your protectant wax. 

will any type of wax work??


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (KelOne333)*

I 2nd that. Wax? Pardon my ignorance on that one...


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*

I finished all my lips!!!!


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## GreyCloud (Dec 26, 2008)

*Re: (stealthmk3)*

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
They look great....good wurk....did you get some "Mothers Polish" to bring out the shine?


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## stealthmk3 (Nov 30, 2007)

*Re: (GreyCloud)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GreyCloud* »_ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
They look great....good wurk....did you get some "Mothers Polish" to bring out the shine?

Yess'ir


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