# How to Adapt (Adjust, Calibrate) Phaeton Suspension & Ride Height [TOC]



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

.

*Moderation note:*
Please read the whole of this VWVortex thread before taking action, since the procedure varies between suffix 'A' & 'B' controllers and suffix 'C' controllers. This is documented here about half way through.

See also the Ross-Tech VCDS guidance, currently at this location: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/levelcontrol.html

Other threads on the same topic:
Lowering the Car 1 (Discussion about adjusting default suspension height)
Lowering the Car 2 (More discussion about the same subject)
Lowering the Car 3 (Still another discussion about the same subject)

Chris


*How to Adapt (Adjust, Calibrate) Phaeton Suspension & Ride Height*

This is a rather lengthy post that describes how to adapt (calibrate) the level control system on a Phaeton. It consolidates together all that we have learned from several rather lengthy discussions about this topic. Much of the credit for what is written here goes to David Cowan, who pioneered investigation into this topic in the fall of 2004.

The most common reason why a Phaeton owner wants to re-adapt the suspension controller on a Phaeton is to lower the car by 10 mm to its original design ride height. Phaetons that are sold in the North American Region (NAR) have the suspension set in such a way that the body of the car is 10 mm higher above the axles than Phaetons sold in the rest of the world. There is a good reason for this – the wheel stops that are commonly used in NAR parking lots are much higher than the EC standard for a wheel stop. If VW shipped Phaetons to North America with the standard European ride height settings, owners would be complaining about the front bumper of the car getting smashed up on curb stops. The photos below, showing the relationship of my Phaeton – which is calibrated to European ride height specifications – to a standard cement wheel stop will show you exactly we are talking about.

*Phaeton with North American Suspension Settings*









*Phaeton with European Suspension Settings*









*Why VW sets North American Phaetons 10 mm higher than European ones*
_This is my Phaeton, after I recalibrated it to European specifications. _


















*Another reason why VW sets North American Phaetons 10 mm higher than European ones*
_Have you every seen a roadway transition like this in your neighbourhood? You won’t find this kind of civil engineering incompetence in Germany._









*General Overview of the Process*
Many Phaeton owners want to see their car sit a little lower over the wheels, because the car looks a bit nicer that way. This “how to do it” post does not discuss how to slam the Phaeton down like a low-rider you might see cruising through South-Central LA on a Friday night – it only describes how to change standard North American suspension settings to standard European suspension settings, or, if you need to do it, how to re-adapt the suspension on the Phaeton without changing anything at all.

First, an explanation about adaptation involves is in order. Some controllers in a Phaeton need to be adapted (calibrated might be a better word, but VW uses the term ‘adapted’) to the individual vehicle, and some do not need to be adapted. If you install a battery management controller, or a navigation system controller, it’s just “plug and play” – every one of these controllers works the same way in every Phaeton, and no adaptation to the individual car is needed. But, other controllers need to be adapted to the individual characteristics of each chassis. A good example of this is the Tire Pressure Monitoring Controller. When we change tire pressures, we have to put this controller through a learning cycle so that it learns what the pressures are on our individual Phaeton. This learning cycle is, in fact, a driver initiated adaptation cycle. We adapt the TPMS controller to precisely match how we have configured our vehicle.

Similarly, a suspension controller needs to be adapted to every individual Phaeton, because not every car body is exactly the same weight. Such an adaptation normally only needs to be done once. Phaeton suspension controllers are adapted to the car when the car is built in Dresden. If there are problems later on, or if the controller breaks and is replaced with a new one, the Phaeton technician at your dealership will adapt the new controller to your car. It is not a difficult process, but the instructions need to be followed carefully.

Before we adapt the controller, though, we first have to tell it how high we want the body to sit above the wheels of the car. This is a slightly different process than adaptation. We tell the controller how high we want the body to sit by coding the controller, then, after we have coded it, we adapt the controller to the car to ensure that it is accurately doing what we have coded it to do.

A analogy that will help explain the difference between coding and adaptation is that of an old-fashioned television set, the kind that has a rotary dial on it that you turn to change channels. Turning the big dial step by step, to switch from channel 2 to channel 3 and so on, can be considered to be ‘coding’. Adjusting the fine tuning dial so that you got perfect reception on channel 2 or channel 3 (after you have changed the channel) can be considered ‘adaptation’.

OK, now you understand the basics, so let’s begin the coding and adaptation process. To do this work, you will need the following tools:
*1) *A diagnostic scan tool. This could be a VAG-COM, a VAS 5051, VAS 5052, or similar.
*2) *A measuring tape or ruler that is calibrated in millimetres. A carpenter’s level is the best thing to use, because it is sturdy and easy to read.
*3) * A perfectly level surface that you can park the Phaeton on, while leaving the engine running for some time (about half an hour or so).
*4) * Other miscellaneous useful stuff: A printed copy of these instructions, a pencil and paper, a bar stool or small ladder you can put your scan tool on, and perhaps a credit card to help you measure with precision.

*Find a nice, level, well ventilated, friendly, social place to do your work.
The platform that comes with a Hunter VAG 1944B Wheel Alignment Tool is perfect for this purpose.*









*Coding*
The suspension controller is controller 34. The normal coding for this controller in Europe is 0015500, and the normal coding for this controller in North America is 0017700. Each increment of one digit in the location where the 5’s and 7’s are is equal to a 5 mm increase in body ride height above the axles. A European Phaeton has a normal axle centerline to lower edge of fender distance of 407 and 401 mm, front and rear, and a North American Phaeton has a normal distance of 417 and 411 mm. If you change the coding of the suspension controller from xxx77xx to xxx55xx (the x representing digits you don’t pay attention to, and should not change), then you will eliminate the 10 mm upward adjustment on the NAR Phaetons.

So, using your diagnostic scan tool, change the coding of the controller, save your work, and close the controller. Now, because you have changed the coding, you must re-adapt the controller – otherwise, you will see a message in the Y24 display (the screen between the speedometer and the tachometer) telling you that you have suspension problems. In fact, this message will appear immediately as soon as you change the coding – don’t worry about it, it will go away once you have completed the adaptation.

*Suspension Controller Opened*









*Change the coding from xxx77xx to xxx55xx – no security code is needed or wanted for this step. *
Don’t forget to save the work after you do this. 









*Adaptation*
Put the car on a level surface. Make sure that the tire pressures are correctly set on all 4 tires. Get whatever you need out of the car, because you cannot open any doors or lids during the adaptation process (if you do open a door or lid, it aborts the adaptation). Roll the driver window down all the way. Plug the cable from the diagnostic scan tool into the OBD (on board diagnostic) connector, which is just inboard of the parking brake foot pedal. Run the cable out the open driver door window, and plug it into your diagnostic scan tool (now you know why it helps to have a bar stool to put the scan tool on).

Start the engine, and leave the car idling, in Park. Get out, and close all the doors.

Open the suspension controller (address 34), and enter the security code that is needed to give you access to the adaptation section of the controller. The security code is 31564 – this is the same for a Touareg or a Phaeton. Be aware that once you have entered the security code, you have initiated the adaptation procedure. You then have to fully complete the adaptation cycle – if you back out before the end (channel 5), your car will display a fault message, and the suspension system will be in ‘limp home’ mode.

*Enter the Security Code*









Once you have entered the security code, go to adaptation, and select channel 1. The Phaeton will then move up and down a little bit, and eventually, ask you to enter a measurement. Measure the exact distance between the axle centerline and the bottom edge of the front left fender, and enter that value. Repeat this process for adaptation channels 2, 3, and 4, which correspond to the front right, rear left, and rear right wheels.

*Go to channel 1, wait for the car to move up and down, then enter the observed measurement*
_Normally you have to wait about 1 minute until the car stops moving up and down, rarely longer than 2 minutes. _









*When the word WAIT disappears, and ENTER appears, enter your measurement. *
_VAG-COM software will occasionally 'hang' on adaptation channel 1. If the word 'wait' has not been replaced with 'enter' after 5 minutes, just dismiss the yellow guidance balloon (click on the X in the corner of the balloon), then enter your measurement, and click test, then click save._









*How to make your measurements*
_Keep the ruler level, use a credit card to line up with the center of the axle. It helps to mark the desired measurements (401 mm and 407 mm) on the ruler with a felt pen. _



























Once you have entered the measurements for all 4 wheels in channels 1 to 4, you then have to go to channel 5, and enter a one (1) to save your work. Entering the 1 tells the controller that you want it to write the values to memory. If you don’t do this, you won’t successfully complete the adaptation.

After you have entered and saved the 1 to channel five, close the controller. Then get in the car, back it up about 15 feet, then drive it forward about 15 feet, so you are back in the original position again. Leave the engine running, and without hooking up the scan tool, take the 4 measurements again. You should find that the measurements are within 5 mm of the nominal distances – that is to say, 401 front and 407 rear if you have coded the controller with 5’s, and 411 front and 417 rear if you have coded the controller with 7’s.

If the measurements are outside of that range, or, if they are inside of that range but you want to make them more accurate, repeat the adaptation process again, starting with the entry of the security code. It’s not uncommon to need to complete two adaptation cycles to get things perfect. Once you are within 2 mm of nominal, stop, because that is about as close as you can reasonably expect to get.

Experience has taught us that it is kind of pointless to try to go through more than 3 adaptation cycles in one day. If you don’t get the results you want after 3 cycles, put the car in the garage and try again the next day.

*Background Information*
You can increase the Phaeton ride height up to 20 mm above the nominal European settings – for example, if you had to drive the Dempster highway to the Arctic ocean, this might be worth considering, you would enter 9’s as coding values – but it seems that you cannot code the controller with a number that is lower than 5. You can try, but the controller won’t accept it. My guess is that you need to have a different security code (that we don’t know about) to enter values lower than the European norm.

Some people have managed to get the car to sit quite low on the axles by ‘fibbing’ to the controller during the adaptation process. In other words, they take the measurement, and if the measurement is, for example, 401 mm, they enter 406 mm. This tells the car that it is 5 mm higher than it thinks it is, and the car responds by sitting 5 mm lower when the adaptation cycle is finished. Personally, I don’t think this is a good idea. If you lower the car the ‘proper’ way – by coding – then do a truthful adaptation, the car knows exactly where it is at all times, so far as limits of suspension travel are concerned. If you fib to the car when you do the adaptation, then it will think it still has (for example) 30 mm of downward or upward shock absorber travel before it hits the physical limit of travel, when in actual fact it has only 25mm of downward travel, and 35 mm of upward travel. This will result in less than optimum suspension performance at all times.

*Personal Responsibility*
If you have read this far, you should have figured out that VW set the Phaetons 10 mm higher than the European ones for good reason – because of higher curbs and wheel stops here in North America.

If you want to lower your car to the European ride height, by all means, go ahead – but understand that you must be prepared to take personal responsibility for not bashing up the front chin spoiler of your Phaeton on curb stops. You will also have to be more careful than normal when climbing or descending steep transitions between public roads and some private entrances, such as gas stations or underground parking facilities. 

*Note added February, 2006:* VW of America has released a Technical Bulletin (TB) mandating a small change to the method that the front underbody cover *on W12 Phaetons only* attaches to the right wheelwell cover. This is to reduce the risk of damage to the transmission oil cooler if a driver carelessly fouls the front underbody of the Phaeton against a curb. If you have a W12, and are planning to lower the ride height, it would be a good idea to have this TB carried out before you make any adjustments. Further details can be found here: TB 00-06-02 - W12 (only!) Underbody Cover Attachment Modification.

If for some unfortunate reason, you screw up the whole coding and adaptation process, just take your Phaeton to your VW dealer, and ask them to do a suspension adaptation for you. You can ask them to use 5’s for the coding, rather than 7’s – the worst they can do is say ‘no’. It will probably cost you about an hour’s labour to have a suspension adaptation done. Although it only takes about half an hour to do the adaptation itself, it takes about an hour in total to get the car inside, hook up the scan tool, do the work, check the work, and take the car for a test drive.

*Check your Wheel Alignment after you make the changes*
Obviously, if you change the height at which the body rides above the wheels, you will also change the wheel alignment (camber, caster, toe, and thrust angle) of your Phaeton. This is a mathematical fact, there is no escaping it. When your Phaeton was built in Dresden, the wheels were aligned after the suspension was coded and adapted. So, if you lower the car, it makes a great deal of sense to drive it over to your dealer and have them check the wheel alignment, to make sure everything is still within specification. 

I had my dealer check the wheel alignment on my Phaeton after I lowered it, and they discovered that although everything still remained within the allowable range (the green arc), the car was not as close to the optimum ‘perfect’ alignment after I lowered it. One of the measurements was at the very far end of the allowable range. It only took the Phaeton tech at my dealer 90 minutes to do all the checking and fine-tune my Phaeton back to perfection. An hour and a half of labour is not much to pay in return for getting perfect handling, optimum safety, and maximum life from your tires. So, I do strongly encourage you to have your wheel alignment checked after you lower (or raise) your Phaeton. It makes sense to tell the dealer that you have lowered the car – otherwise, they might ‘do you a favour’ and raise it back up to the NAR spec while they are aligning it. Checking ride height is part of the alignment check.

You can find more information about Phaeton wheel alignment procedures at this post:  Tyre Wear, Information about Phaeton Wheel Alignment 

Michael & David


_Modified by PanEuropean at 12:30 AM 3-31-2008_


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## GripperDon (May 9, 2005)

What a service to the Phaeton community, You are both to be congratulated on such a quality post, Just plain wonderful and what has come to be expected from you all.


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## shadowblue (Dec 22, 2004)

*Re: (GripperDon)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GripperDon* »_What a service to the Phaeton community, You are both to be congratulated on such a quality post, Just plain wonderful and what has come to be expected from you all.

Agreed! Any chance of you moving over to the Passat forum, Michael?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (shadowblue)*

To give credit where credit is due - David did all the work and all the research, I just did the writeup.
Michael


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## jmdpjd1 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Thanks Michael and David. ( I assume David from Auburn Hills GTG)
Excellent write up.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (jmdpjd1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *jmdpjd1* »_I assume David from Auburn Hills GTG...

Correct - Dr. David. But I understand his 12 year old had a hand in the process, too...


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## culverwood (May 20, 2005)

Wow - what a great post, even though on this side of the Atlantic I am unlikely to use it it was a pleasure to read.
William


_Modified by culverwood at 9:44 AM 6-24-2005_


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## Caribmon71 (Apr 22, 2005)

Good and informative post. Keep us posted in the Touareg forum if you find coding that will allow us to do this. I used the fibbing method and my suspension is horrible. I've tried to get it back to normal (factory height) but every measuement I take after an adaptation cycle is off.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Caribmon71)*

Caribmon:
If you are having difficulty getting the controller "back to normal" after it has been fibbed to, try this:
*1)* Open the suspension controller.
*2)* Check for fault codes, clear if necessary, check again. A persistent "Incorrect basic settings or adaptation" fault is OK, just make sure there are no other persistent faults.
*3)* Close the controller.
*4)* Open it again, enter the security code, go to adaptation channel 00 (zero), and enter a 0 (zero) as the new value - even though the existing value will be zero. Entering a zero as a new value in channel 00 of *ANY *controller resets the controller to default settings.
*5)* Turn the truck off, lock it up, leave it alone for an hour (go have lunch).
*6)* Come back after lunch, start the truck, drive it a short distance (around the block is sufficient), then try doing a basic, simple, truthful adaptation once again, see what kind of luck you have.

I have encountered Phaeton suspension controllers that also have become somewhat confused and recalcitrant after being fibbed to too many times. The above procedure has helped get things back to normal.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (blueabdjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *blueabdjetta* »_Help, we are trying to lower a Phaeton (05) and this method is not working. It will not hold the settings or even lower down... any suggestions?

Jeremy:
The instructions given above should work, many of us have done this without problems. If you are encountering problems, I suggest you check the following things (in this order):
*1)* Make sure you are using the most recent version of VAG-COM, which is 504.1. You can download this from the Ross-Tech website.
*2) *Check to see that you are using either a fully licensed version of VAG-COM (if you have a third party cable), or, that you are using a Ross-Tech cable. I don't think anyone has tried doing this project with an unlicenced (shareware) version of VAG-COM. Of course, you can also use a VAS 5051 or 5052, if you have one available, but VAG-COM provides better guidance prompts for this task.
*3)* Don't try to slam the car down to the ground on your first attempt. Change the coding from 77 (the North American default) to 55 (the European default), then re-adapt the car. By the way - keep the engine running when you are doing the work, otherwise, you'll drain the battery.
*4) *Download the file I have attached to the bottom of this post, and put it into the "User" folder within the VAG-COM program. Normally this folder will be found at the following path: C: /Program Files/VAG-COM/Labels/User. The file attached below is more up to date than the file that was distributed with the last release of VAG-COM. It will be included in the next update of VAG-COM, which will probably come out in October.
Let us know how you make out with these suggestions.
Michael


_Modified by PanEuropean at 7:47 PM 9-23-2005_


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: How to Adapt (PanEuropean)*

Odd that this post came back from the archive today because I just tried this on my Touareg today. 
At first, it wasn't allowing me to make any changes from the xxx55xx setting. This is because I tried using the Porsche setting (xxxxx1x) on the module. Apparently, the Porsche setting doesn't allow for lowering or raising.
Then once I changed back to the VW setting (xxxxx2x), I was able to change the coding from xxx55xx (the standard Touareg coding) to xxx11xx (20 mm lower). But I was confused because the car didn't lower itself. 
Only after a few minutes did I realize that this is a two part procedure. First you change the coding to what you want the car height to become. That only changes the adaptation values that the car expects to see. You still need to do the adaptation in which you measure and report the observed values so the car can make the necessary adjustments to the level.
As for the difference between the ride with this procedure and the procedure I came up with over a year ago, I can't tell the difference at this point.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (spockcat)*

Hi Jim:
Thanks for adding your observations to this collection of info.
I suspect you will find that there is a bit of a difference in ride between doing it the 'correct' way (coding, then adaptation with truthful values), and doing it the 'original' way (leaving the coding alone, and fibbing on the adaptation values)... though how that difference will manifest itself, I don't know. The reason for the difference between the two methods is that if you do it the correct way, the vehicle will know what the limits of travel are in both directions. If you fudge the adaptation values, the vehicle will think that the limits of travel are greater or less than they actually are.
Michael


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## blueabdjetta (May 29, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (PanEuropean)*

we were able to fuge the values to lower the car 10mm but it wouldn't change the coding from 77 to 55. And we have version 506.1 on the vag. so were stuck at how to go lower than that. the numbers just wouldn't change lower than that. the coding would just return to its normal value when you hit ok to change it .


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (blueabdjetta)*

Jeremy:
Please email me a copy of a VAG-COM Autoscan for the Phaeton you are working on, this will allow me to have a look at the suspension controller version. I have never heard of a controller not changing from 77 to 55 before. My first thought is that perhaps you are doing something wrong (not following the directions), however, I would like to have a closer look at the specification for the controller. You can get my email address by clicking on my username at the left side of the screen.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (PanEuropean)*

For the record - here is a photo of a Phaeton with 17 inch wheels that has been set to the factory default setting (55) for Europe. It is a European car, no-one changed anything, it came this way.

I know there has been some discussion about whether 17 inch wheels look good on the Phaeton or not - personally, I think that if the suspension is correctly set (meaning, 55), the 17 inch wheels look just as good as the 18 inch wheels.

Michael


*European Phaeton with 17 inch wheels*


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: How to Adapt (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
I know there has been some discussion about whether 17 inch wheels look good on the Phaeton or not - personally, I think that if the suspension is correctly set (meaning, 55), the 17 inch wheels look just as good as the 18 inch wheels.
Michael


This might have to do with the fact that the tire on the 17" wheel fills the well just as completely as the one on the 18" wheel due to its different aspect ratio. I slightly prefer the look of the larger wheel, however, because the eye is drawn to the wheel itself. The tire tends to blend into the background. I may be contradicting myself here!
A quick question. I haven't lowered my car because of two concerns. The first is that I may come into contact with the parking lot 'stops' (or whatever they're called) or scrape the road surface under certain circumstances. The second is the effect on ride quality. Is in fact ride quality affected much if the recommended procedure is used to lower the height?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (blueabdjetta)*


_Quote, originally posted by *blueabdjetta* »_we were able to fuge the values to lower the car 10mm but it wouldn't change the coding from 77 to 55. And we have version 506.1 on the vag. so were stuck at how to go lower than that. the numbers just wouldn't change lower than that. the coding would just return to its normal value when you hit ok to change it . 

I have had some email exchanges with the person who is attempting to do the recoding and adaptation on this vehicle. It appears that the suspension controller (#34) on this vehicle is newer than the suspension controllers on all of our other Phaetons. If you have a look at the VAG-COM Controller Lists from Phaetons post, you will see that the part number and software version of most of the Phaeton suspension controllers shown there is as follows:
Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101
Coding: 0015500
The information for the suspension controller in the subject car (a 2005 Phaeton) is as follows:
Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1121
Coding: 0007722
Note that the controller suffix is C, and the software revision level is 1121. I am not aware of any change in coding or functionality as a result of this increment in controller PN, however, it is possible that things might be a bit different.
Are there any regular forum members here who own a 2005 Phaeton who have changed the suspension settings? I would be curious to know what the part number of your controller is.
Michael



*IMPORTANT NEW INFORMATION*, added November 2012: See posts #90 to #93 on page 3 of this discussion for instructions explaining how to re-adapt 'C' suffix controllers used on some MY 2005 cars, and all MY 2006 cars.  Michael


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## blueabdjetta (May 29, 2001)

now it won't let us raise the car .... anyone have any suggestions for us to get the car raised up a little bit.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (blueabdjetta)*

Have you considered installing a replacement controller?
Michael


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## blueabdjetta (May 29, 2001)

no we haven't yet ... should we? would it even work?


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## vwgotech (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Hey Michael, I'm the one trying to raise up the Phaeton. I called VW techline and they told me to go to the dealer and use the 5052 and use the guided functions option. I found out there is a time out on these controllers. I had to leave the car locked overnight to put the security code in. It worked fine then, but I accidently saved a wrong value and needed to do the process over again and of coarse I'm locked out again. So now I'm waiting again. I had to wait only 5 min. before, but now it seems like I'll need to wait an hour or 2. Do you think there's another way around this? Thanks for your help Michael.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (vwgotech)*

I have never encountered a time-out function on ANY Volkswagen controller, except for situations where an incorrect security code has been entered - for example, when adapting a new key to an engine ECU.
I have a feeling that you guys wore this poor controller right out, and what you put it through is probably prohibited by some kind of international law - either the Geneva Conventions, or one of the UN resolutions about cruel and unusual punishment.








My suggestion to you, at this stage of the game, is that you leave the car alone overnight (since that seemed to work for you before), then use the VAS 5052 to code and adapt the controller back to manufacturer recommended specifications tomorrow, following the Guided Functions prompts exactly.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (vwgotech)*

A few posts higher up in this thread, almost exactly one month ago, I wrote _"I am not aware of any change in coding or functionality as a result of this increment in controller PN, however, it is possible that things might be a bit different." _Well, it turns out that the newer controllers (C suffix with software revision level 1121) are functionally very different from the controllers on the 2004 Phaetons.
The recoding process described above *will not work* on a 2005 or later Phaeton.
The following shows the part number, part number suffix, software revision level and coding for the suspension controller in a typical 2004 Phaeton:
Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101
Coding: 0015500
This shows the same information for a typical 2005 Phaeton:
Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1121
Coding: 0007722
The first indication we had of a possible problem was the series of posts by blueabdjetta and vwgotech, above, telling of the problems they were having trying to recode a 2005 Phaeton. At the Birmingham, AL get-together this past week, David and I attempted to recode and re-adapt Robert's 2005 Phaeton, and no matter what we did, the controller would not accept any change to the coding of 0007722. Between the two of us, David and I have recoded and re-adapted about 30 Phaetons, so it is unlikely that we were doing anything wrong (e.g. leaving a door or lid open during the adaptation process).
This change to the part number suffix, software revision level, and coding protocol on the 2005 Phaetons is universal and not specific to North America. I have just looked over some scans made of 2005 Phaetons at the Dresden, Germany Phaeton Owner Get-Together held in April 2005, and I see that Phaetons produced for the German market also have the newer controller, newer software, and newer coding protocol. Below is data from a 2005 V6 TDI, produced for the German market:
Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1122
Coding: 0005521
As you can see, this car has the same newer part number and suffix, essentially the same software load, and the same change in coding protocol as the 2005 NAR Phaetons. So, at least we know that VW of A is not out to make life difficult for owners - the change is universal.
I am sure that there is some way to recode the newer controllers, but, we will have to find this out on our own. VW Dresden's unspoken (but well understood, worldwide) policy on vehicle modifications goes like this: _"We won't tell you how to make a change that we would not allow a dealer to make, but, if you figure it out on your own, we will then tell you - off the record - about any safety or functionality consequences that you should be aware of if you plan to go ahead and change things."_ I think everyone will agree that this is a pretty reasonable stance on their part. So, now we need to figure out a way to recode 2005 Phaeton suspension controllers.
Note that the adaptation process remains unchanged - in other words, the actual calibration of the controller (what VW calls 'adaptation') is the same for either the B or the C suffix controller. The only difference is that we cannot change the coding of the C suffix controller, following the same procedure that works for the A or B suffix controller.
Michael


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## spockcat (Jun 5, 2003)

*Re: (PanEuropean)*

Michael,
Did you try recoding either of the last two digits back to 1 or 0 on the 2005?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (spockcat)*

I did not, but another Phaeton owner did, and that did not have any effect. Personally, I don't think it is a good idea to change any coding numbers 'on spec' - because there is no limit to what the consequences could be. For example, on the 2004 Phaetons, one of the digits in the suspension controller determines how the level system for the xenon headlights is controlled. If an owner changed that number, he or she would see no immediate effect on how the suspension controller worked, but they would have set up an unsafe operating condition.
Michael
*A post-script: *I looked over my records of work done at the Dresden GTG in the springtime, and note that we had the same problem with a 2005 German Phaeton, which was coded with the 1 in the right-most place. That suggests that behaviour of the new controller is the same regardless of country coding.


_Modified by PanEuropean at 3:41 PM 10-29-2005_


----------



## dododavis (Dec 29, 2004)

*2005 Suspension drop*

At the dealer yesterday, we were unable to get anywhere with lowering my 2005 Phaeton V8. When we went to ch 34, it said the code was 7722. I expected to see 0017710 or whatever it is. Not even close. Tried to change the 77 to 55, just to see, and rejected. Everything we tried was rejected. PanEuro touched on the difficulties of lowering a 2005 in my "bumper hole plug" post, but I didn't want to continue it there. Any thoughts or experience with this?
thanks
_Merged with existing topic to maintain continuity - Michael_


_Modified by PanEuropean at 10:11 AM 11-5-2005_


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## vwgotech (Oct 18, 2004)

*Re: 2005 Suspension drop (dododavis)*

I had the same problem. For some reason VW changed the coding capabilities on the newer Phaetons. I installed a lowering controll module from http://www.tunershop.com on mine and it works great.


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: 2005 Suspension drop (vwgotech)*

There is an interesting post in the Car Lounge Forum (another part of Vortex) discussing the ride height of a 2006 Golf. They are discussing the possibility that the North American ride height may be higher than the European ride height in order to ensure that the car complies with side impact protection standards. The discussion is here: 2006 US-spec GTI.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: 2005 Suspension drop (vwgotech)*

I asked the staff in Dresden if the procedure for changing the coding of the suspension controller was different between the 'old' controllers with the B suffix, and the newer controllers with the C suffix.
The answer is yes, both the coding and the process of changing the coding is different. It is not possible to simply change the '77' to a '55' following the same procedures that we established for the original B suffix controller.
According to the mutually understood rules of courtesy that govern disclosure of internal technical information to us (owners) by VW AG, I didn't ask how to change the coding on the new controller, and the VW engineers didn't volunteer the information. The unwritten but well understood rules are that we have to figure out how to do this on our own. Once we figure it out, then the engineers will advise us if there are any special safety or operational considerations that have to be thought about before we make any changes.
My personal guess (just a guess) is that it is now necessary to enter a security code before we can change the 77 to a 55. I am also guessing that the procedure will be pretty much the same, other than needing to enter the security code before changing the coding of the controller.
So, now we have something new we can work on - how to figure out what the security code of the new C suffix controller is.
Michael


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## Theresias (Feb 11, 2004)

*Re: 2005 Suspension drop (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_My personal guess (just a guess) is that it is now necessary to enter a security code before we can change the 77 to a 55. I am also guessing that the procedure will be pretty much the same, other than needing to enter the security code before changing the coding of the controller.

If it is a security access, that is necessary to change/alter the coding, we should easily find that one. The point behind that, if a dealer changes the control module because of any reason, they need to know the sec. access! Therefor I doubt that they would do it that way, too simple.







There are several other ways to do this, I will check some of them in the near future and tell you about that privately before we are going to publish that information. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: 2005 Suspension drop (PanEuropean)*

I received the following inquiry by email from new forum member SQC (Stephan), asking for further information about lowering the Phaeton: 
_Can you give me some tips on lowering my Phaeton?_
I guess it has now been close to a year since this topic was active, and although many of us who are long term forum members could probably do a suspension adaptation in our sleep, it would probably be a good idea to provide a quick literature review and recap of this whole process to bring new forum members up to speed on the topic. So, here's the overview:
*1)* The topic of lowering the NAR specification Phaeton was extensively discussed here on the forum between January and June of 2005.
*2)* The conclusion that most of us came to was that it is only necessary to lower the vehicle 10 mm (about a third of an inch) from the NAR ride height specification to the ROW ride height specification in order to achieve a substantial improvement in appearance of the car - that is to say, to achieve a symmetrical gap between the outer edge of the tires and the circular arc of the wheel openings in the quarter panels.
*3) *If the NAR Phaeton is lowered by 10 mm to ROW specification by following the correct 'mil spec' process (in other words, by first changing coding on the suspension controller, then re-adapting the controller), there are no undesirable consequences to safety, handling, function, etc. - the lowered NAR Phaeton exactly conforms to ROW VW specifications.
*4)* Owners who lower their NAR vehicles to ROW ride height must assume responsibility for being extra careful about avoiding any kind of collision between the lower front area of the car and the very tall concrete wheel stops that are commonly used in North America. If the front of the car impacts a concrete wheel stop, considerable damage to mechanical components (radiators, heat exchangers, liquid hoses, etc.) can result. The cost of repairing this damage will be to the owner's account, and is not covered by the VW warranty. VW raised the ride height of the NAR Phaetons specifically because of the higher wheel stops used in North America, if we choose to lower it again, we must be aware of the need for great caution when approaching parking lot wheel stops. This is generally not a problem for owners who are the 'sole drivers' of their Phaetons, however, if you often have your car parked by valets, you might want to think twice about making this change.
*5)* It is highly recommended that you have the wheel alignment of your Phaeton re-checked to make sure it is still within tolerances after you lower your car. When the Phaetons are built, suspension height is set first, then the wheel alignment is done. If suspension height is changed, wheel alignment geometry will also change.
*6) *The adjustments needed to lower the NAR Phaeton to ROW ride height can be carried out either by the owner of the vehicle, if the owner has a diagnostic scan tool (VAS 5052, VAG-COM), or by a VW dealer. Some VW dealers may decline to make the change due to fear of liability issues.
*7)* A 10 mm drop (from NAR spec to ROW spec) seems to be all that is necessary to make the car look good - dropping it 10 mm makes it look like it has been dropped about 30 mm - and none of us recommend lowering it any further than the ROW specification, lest problems with ride comfort, stability control, component clearance, and controller function arise.
*8)* Model year 2005 and later Phaetons that are equipped with a later production version of the suspension controller do not permit the coding to be changed from 77 to 55. None of us have found a mil-spec workaround for this problem yet.
The discussion above (on this thread) explains how to make the adjustment. There are other discussions in the archive about lowering the car, I have posted some links to them below. When reading them, keep in mind that the procedures shown above in this thread are the most up to date and definitive instructions for carrying out the adjustment in accordance with VW ROW specifications.
Other (older) discussions of this topic:
Lowering the Car 1 (Discussion about adjusting default suspension height)
Lowering the Car 2 (More discussion about the same subject)
Lowering the Car 3 (Still another discussion about the same subject)
Michael


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: 2005 Suspension drop (PanEuropean)*

*Important New Information*
VW of America has released a Technical Bulletin (TB) mandating a small change to the method that the front underbody cover *on W12 Phaetons only* attaches to the right wheelwell cover. This is to reduce the risk of damage to the transmission oil cooler if a driver carelessly fouls the front underbody of the Phaeton against a curb. If you have a W12, and are planning to lower the ride height, it would be a good idea to have this TB carried out before you make any adjustments. Further details can be found here: TB 00-06-02 - W12 (only!) Underbody Cover Attachment Modification.


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## pretendcto (Nov 23, 2005)

*Re: How to Adapt (Adjust, Calibrate) Phaeton Suspension & Ride Height (PanEuropean)*

I adjusted my Phaeton to European ride height today and everything went smoothly thanks to this thread!
I think this sentence from the first post in this thread under the picture of the car on the alignment rack is incorrect. I believe the 401 and 407 mm should be reversed as the front is 407 and the rear is 401.

_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_...A European Phaeton has a normal axle centerline to lower edge of fender distance of 401 and 407 mm, front and rear, and a North American Phaeton has a normal distance of 411 and 417 mm.

See this thread, I've quoted from it below.

_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_...The original design specification called for a measurement of 407 mm from axle centerline to the bottom of the fender lip on the front axle, and 401 mm on the rear axle.

Lowering my baby/VAG Tool


----------



## GotKidz (Aug 6, 2002)

*Lowering Module for Phaeton?*

Could not find anything in search... what are the options out there besides VAG ???


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (GotKidz)*

Tunershop and others have black box modules that plug in to the wiring in the trunk. They are said to include a cabin-mounted on/off switch. Price is about $1,500 for the unit. The campany has English (UK), American and German websites. Good luck!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (pretendcto)*

Paul:
You are correct, the default European measurements are 407 mm for the front and 401 mm for the rear. In other words, the front is higher than the rear. Same goes for the default American measurements, just add 10 mm to both.
Thanks for catching that error, I have corrected the text in the top (original) post.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (GotKidz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GotKidz* »_Could not find anything in search...

For unknown reasons, the 'search' function of the ZeroForum software (the software that runs this message board) is quite unreliable when it comes to searching posts that have fallen off the 'current posts' and gone into the 'archive'. In the Phaeton forum, posts are archived automatically by the forum software if they have not been active for over 60 days.
The best way to look for reference information about a subject is to check the Phaeton Forum 'Table of Contents' (FAQ by Category), which can be found at the top of page 1 of forum topics. The next best way to find information is to use the Google Search *within Vortex* command, which is in the upper right corner of your screen beside the regular 'Search' command. In other words, the regular forum Search, which uses ZeroForum software to do the search, will work quite well for posts that have been active in the past 60 days. To go back further than that, use the Google Search feature. Just be sure to include the word 'Phaeton' when you use 'Google Search within Vortex', because Google searches every Vortex forum and will return results for every VW model. Including the word 'Phaeton' in the Google Search criteria helps narrow it down.

_Quote, originally posted by *GotKidz* »_what are the options out there besides VAG ???

If the suspension controller in the Phaeton has a part number suffix ending in A or B, you can adjust the height of the car using either a Ross-Tech VAG-COM diagnostic scan tool, or a Volkswagen 5051 or 5052 diagnostic scan tool. The procedure to follow is quite simple, it takes perhaps half an hour to do it the very first time, after you have done it a few times, you can do it in about 8 minutes (2 minutes per wheel). The instructions are here: How to Adapt (Adjust, Calibrate) Phaeton Suspension & Ride Height. Be aware that you have to read and follow these directions carefully. If, for example, you leave a door or lid open, the car will not allow you to proceed with the suspension adaptation.
If the suspension controller in the Phaeton has a part number ending in C (these controllers were introduced about midway through model year 2005 production), it is not possible to change the default height by following the process laid out for the A and B suffix controllers. This is because the C suffix controllers are 'locked' and require an additional security code to unlock them, and we (the forum members) don't know what this additional security code is. Our 'unwritten agreement' with the factory in Dresden states that we don't ask questions that the staff there would prefer to not answer... this means we have to find out what the additional security code for the C suffix controllers is by ourselves.
If someone owns a North American Phaeton with a C suffix controller and wants to lower it 10 mm to the standard European ride height, I think the simplest and least expensive way of going about this would be to just purchase a European specification suspension controller from VW in Europe, install that in your Phaeton, then perform a normal adaptation (no additional security code is needed for the normal adaptation). I don't know what the European part number suspension controller costs, but I would be quite surprised if it was much more than about $400 US. Another alternative might be to try and source a North American controller with a B suffix (I don't think A suffixes ever made it to NAR) from a salvage yard in North America, then adapt it using the instructions in the above-referenced thread.
Michael


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## streetsounds (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (GotKidz)*


_Quote, originally posted by *GotKidz* »_Could not find anything in search... what are the options out there besides VAG ???

Yes we sell a lowering module for the Phaeton. Here the kit installed in my 2006 A8
















_and no you can't go that low with the VAG and no it's not rubbin_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (GotKidz)*

.
GotKidz:

If your objective is to lower the vehicle so much that the top of the tires disappear behind the top of the fender well (as illustrated in the photos posted above by StreetSounds), then you will need to purchase an aftermarket device such as the item that StreetSounds sells.

If your objective is just to lower the Phaeton to the normal European ride height (see picture below), then you can accomplish this less expensively following the instructions I gave in my earlier post, above.

Michael

*Normal European Ride Height*


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## streetsounds (Jun 28, 2003)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_GotKidz:
If your objective is to lower the vehicle so much that the top of the tires disappear behind the top of the fender well (as illustrated in the photos posted above by StreetSounds), then you will need to purchase an aftermarket device such as the item that StreetSounds sells.


Thanks for pointing out how low it is. Lucky it was at a show and it is desired to see cars low like that  
But nice to know you do not need a laptop to raise it a little if desired. Simple push of a button will do the trick 









{Note: image no longer available at that location. Try here - Jan 2018 - Chris}

So no matter if you like to roll down the strip get peoples attention with a lowered car on Hollywood Blvd or drive coast to coast you covered.

PS: Maybe the car looks that low on the pictures because we are running Nothelle Novedra IX Sport 22x10 with ContiSportContact 295/25ZR22 all around.
This size was also sold to a US Customer with a W12 Phaeton and he is real happy


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## mkell (Jan 8, 2005)

streetsounds: Would I get the same results on my Phaeton as seen on your A6? I have aftermarket 20inch wheels and tires and need something to get rid of the gap. I had the car lowered to the euro height (only lasted shortly due to technicalities) and it looked nice, but could still be a little lower. 
What does the instalation consist of? Would I be able to take it to a decently respectable shop to have it set up?


_Modified by mkell at 8:00 PM 9-23-2006_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (streetsounds)*

OK everyone, different folks will have different opinions about whether or not they like the look of the 'very low' vehicle pictured above.
To keep everything nice and friendly, and to keep the thread focused on the original poster's (GotKidz) question, let's confine the discussion to the technical aspects of this modification.
If you don't like the idea, just quietly move on to another thread. If you do like the idea, here's a related link you might enjoy following: 'Lowered Horizons' Car Club.
Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (streetsounds)*


_Quote, originally posted by *streetsounds* »_But nice to know you do not need a laptop to raise it a little if desired. Simple push of a button will do the trick...

This is correct - the most significant difference between lowering a Phaeton by using a diagnostic scan tool and lowering a Phaeton using an aftermarket component such as the item you sell is that if the car owner buys the item you sell, he or she can adjust the car up and down as desired using the control on your aftermarket device.
My own experience, working together with individuals who have purchased or leased new Phaetons, is that the owners generally just want to lower the car down 10mm (to the original design criteria) and then leave it there - that's sufficient to meet their objectives. I have lowered about 25 Phaetons now, free of charge, and none of the 25 owners have expressed a desire to be able to adjust ride height beyond the adjustments that the car already provides (the ability to raise it with a pushbutton that is provided on all Phaetons, and automatic lowering at sustained high speeds).
Clearly, the Phaeton owner who purchased the aftermarket kit from you wanted more control over the height of the car, and I can only presume that he is satisfied with the functionality of your device. As more and more Phaetons enter the resale market, we may see a different demographic driving the car, and the members of that demographic may want to have the functionality that your device provides.
For those who may be interested and would like more information, here is a link to the retail website of StreetSounds: http://www.tunershop.com/. If you would like to contact Steve (Streetsounds) directly to discuss this in more detail, you can find his company phone number and email address if you click on his name, to the left of the posts.
Michael


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## plastech (May 3, 2006)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (PanEuropean)*

Whats the cost to lower a Phaeton ?
And has any body done one .Picture would be good


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (plastech)*

Mine was lowered twice by Michael for a cup of coffee.







He only put it down about 1/4 inch. I tried 1/2 but I thought it stiffened the ride. It's just enough to "CENTER" the tires in the wheel arches.


_Modified by Paldi at 12:30 AM 9-24-2006_


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## uk_nick (Mar 31, 2006)

Fred,
Do you mean 1/4 inch below European ride height or NAR ride height ? I'm sure I read the original thread covering this, so forgive my laziness !


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: Lowering Module for Phaeton? (Paldi)*

*Moderator Note:* I have merged the recent inquiry by GotKidz (the Audi A4 owner who posted the question at the bottom of page 1) onto the existing discussion about how to lower a Phaeton. This will keep everything related to this subject in one place.
*Nick:* Fred referred to lowering his car from the default NAR ride height. When Fred and I first did it, we set the car at '55' (the European spec) from the original '77' (the NAR spec). Later, at Fred's request, we re-adapted it to 66, which resulted in a 5 mm drop from NAR spec - or a 5mm lift from ROW spec, depending on how you want to look at it. 
Michael


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## uk_nick (Mar 31, 2006)

Michael, you're a star.


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## Holgi33 (Jun 16, 2002)

*Re: (uk_nick)*

http://www.kaistra.de/phaeton
50 mm lower (Normalniveau)

25 mm higher (Highniveau)

On the Highway, the Phateon go 15 mm (= -65 mm !!!) lower on 120 km/h.




























_Modified by Holgi33 at 6:20 PM 11-26-2006_


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Holgi33)*

Holgi's lowering was accomplished by fitting aftermarket levers to the suspension ride height sensors. They were offered on German ebay for about $500.00 USD with specs for realigning the suspension after fitment. I had an email exchange with the seller and decided to pass as the modification is purely mechanical and works by "fooling" the suspension controller into thinking the car is set at normal ride height when it's not. Also dramatic recaliberation of the alignment is necessary.










Looks like something one could fashion from a few bits and fittings.

As to the height shown in the photos: 

The -50 mm low setting is now the "normal" ride height. 
The higher setting is achieved by raising the vehicle 1" using the lift button on the console. This is standard on the car. This, of course, reverts back to the new "normal" above 55 MPH.
The "really low" setting is achieved automatically when the vehicle is operating at speed on the highway. 
 



_Modified by Paldi at 1:52 PM 11-26-2006_


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## Holgi33 (Jun 16, 2002)

*Re: (Paldi)*

@Paldi
For 50 mm lower you need also VAG-COM !!!
Fittings = 30 mm
VAG-COM = 20 mm


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Holgi33)*

You are doing this on a ROW spec car that is already lower than NAR spec by 20 mm. Your roads must be made like glass.








I like your painted lower valences and the placement of the V10 badges on the front fenders. Also noticed the "riccone mod" W12 rear valence.


_Modified by Paldi at 1:13 PM 11-26-2006_


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## Holgi33 (Jun 16, 2002)

*Re: (Paldi)*

At time, I have no problems with the car and the roads, but I test it the next months.
The V10 badges are form the new Audi S6. But in the USA, yo have no V10 TDI, or?


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## Paldi (Sep 4, 2004)

*Re: (Holgi33)*

I read somewhere you are now producing these. What can you share with us about specs, price and fittment?


_Modified by Paldi at 11:01 PM 2-23-2007_


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## Holgi33 (Jun 16, 2002)

*Re: (Paldi)*

Yes Paldi, this is correct. At time, I don't can say a exacting price, but I specs under 100 Dollar!


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: (Holgi33)*

.
Guys and Girls:
I want to draw your attention back to reality for a moment.

Let's not forget that if we make modifications to our vehicles, *we *are responsible for any problems that arise from those modifications. This could mean that we abrogate our entitlement to repair and maintenance services that would normally be paid for by the warranty provided by Volkswagen of America.

VW has been pretty reasonable with us (Phaeton owners) when we modify our cars. When we install start buttons, paddle shifters, stuff like that, they don't complain because we are using OEM Volkswagen parts and the nature of those modifications is such that it does not increase the risk of wear or damage to the car.

If we lower our Phaetons from NAR ride height to ROW ride height by *properly *recoding the suspension controller, we take over the responsibility for any damage that may happen to the front or underside of the car as a result of the car scraping things, but because the suspension system is still operating according to VW specs, VW has not given us a hard time about the change. In other words, they still warrant the function and performance of the air suspension system, the controller, and the other suspension components.

If anyone chooses to replace the original VW sensor actuating arms with these modified (shortened) actuating arms that Holgi has pictured above, hey buddy, you are ON YOUR OWN so far as warranty goes. In other words, it would be entirely fair for Volkswagen to say _"Mister, we are not going to provide warranty coverage for *anything *related to suspension on this vehicle."_

Not only are those arms shorter than the OEM parts, they are a heck of a lot heavier than the OEM parts. The OEM actuating arms are very lightweight (low mass), which is what you would want of a part that has to move rapidly and have no backlash or hysteresis. The aftermarket arms illustrated above are probably 5 times heavier than the OEM ones.

I hate to shoot someones idea down, but I think this particular idea (lowering the car by putting aftermarket actuator arms on it that mislead the controller) is a bad, bad idea, and you are exposing yourself to a lot of risk if you want to go down this path. I do not recommend you do it, and I am not going to encourage this project.

Michael


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## geowben (Jan 26, 2005)

I guess this proves the need for a short arm inspection.


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## Holgi33 (Jun 16, 2002)

*Re: (geowben)*

Here are new photos!
69,00 Euro = 89,00 Dollar (1.304)


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## paddyh (Mar 14, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (Adjust, Calibrate) Phaeton Suspension & Ride Height (PanEuropean)*

Can we rehost these pictures please?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (paddyh)*

I have re-hosted my photos. There are some red X's above, they are for photos that were posted by others. I don't have the originals of these photos.
Michael


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (Adjust, Calibrate) Phaeton Suspension & Ride Height (PanEuropean)*

A guy named Eric has volunteered to meet me with his VAG-COM tool. He emailed me at GMAIL so I'm not sure what his forum name is.
Anyway...I'm planning to do the lowering Saturday and have the shoes on by Tuesday, I'll take before and after pictures.
My question is which I'm not sure I saw addressed...
With the Phaeton lowered to Euro spec, does the car still lower itself when exceeding "x" MPH?? Or did it previously simply lower itself to Euro spec when hitting the highway therefore will not go lower on the highway?
Also when your car is lowered to Euro spec and you hit the button to raise it (inside the car) does it raise back to US spec or is it raising to US/NAR spec PLUS what it use to raise up to BEFORE the Euro lowering?
Also can anyone speak to the feel of the ride, I know it's all relative but I'd like to know if after properly dropping your car to Euro spec following this thread did you notice any significant change in smoothness of ride? Particularly anyone with 20 inch rims and maybe some 275/35/20 tires.


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## george777 (Feb 1, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (derrickonline)*

Derrick, this is a silly question, but - why would you want to lower your car more than you can now? (I suggest you read Michael's post above - referencing warranty issues)


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (george777)*

George maybe there's some confusion. I'm only interested in lowering my car to the Euro spec that is 10mm lower than current spec. I don't intend on lowering it to anything outside of it's doable specification. I also intend on using a VAG-COM tool not those mechanical thingymajigs shown above. Michael's post states since we're doing it the proper way VW still warrants any suspension etc. 
But to answer your question once the shoes are put on which are 20 inch rims the car would naturally sit higher and since the tires are shorter (less height) there will still be a significant amount of fender space. It's all about the look. Everytime I walk up to my car with it's stock 18 inch rims and normal height I don't feel it has the full effect of the look it could have. I've seen Audi A8 that are perfect height with little fender to wheel space.
Again I'm not looking to have my car slammed (i.e. dropped extremely low like a low rider) just a little lower. 
I've read the entire thread and I do understand the potential consequences, however there are a number of NAR Phaetons that have already been dropped with no issue. I do understand I have to be more cautious for parking blocks and curbs etc, but I'm already quite cautious about them now. 
I also feel we have one advantage over others who lower their car, we can raise it back up with the drop of a button, so if I can't make it over something I can raise it back up. Hence the reason I asked the question(s) above about raising it back up and how high it will go once lowered to Euro spec. And 10mm isn't a HUGE difference.










_Modified by derrickonline at 11:44 AM 7-11-2008_


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## chrisj428 (Feb 26, 2005)

*Re: How to Adapt (derrickonline)*

The "HIGH" setting remains the same, whether the car is ROW or NAR coded and adapted.
The "LOW" setting (only the car can select this one over a certain speed) remains the same, whether the car is ROW or NAR coded and adapted.
The "Normal" setting is 10mm lower on the ROW coded/adapted cars than the NAR coded/adapted cars.


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (chrisj428)*

Chris:
Thank you, that makes perfect sense. Sorry to beat a dead horse but even though the car wasn't designed with 20 inch rims in ROW or NAR I assume if it does decide to drop to that "LOW" level on the highway I hope it will do so safely without any rubbing. Do we now how "LOW" the Phaeton will go on that "LOW" setting. Is it just another 5mm or what? Anyone know?


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## Gobuster (May 19, 2005)

*Re: How to Adapt (derrickonline)*

I doubt there will be a rubbing problem. At high speed when the car lowers, steering wheel deflections are small. The most likely scenario for a rub is when the wheel is turned quite a bit and might rub on the fender lip or wheel well liners. A deflection of sufficient magnitude could only be made at lower speed when the car is at the normal setting.


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## derrickonline (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (Gobuster)*

Makes sense, just wanted to get a warm and fuzzy before I do all this stuff.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (derrickonline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derrickonline* »_Do we now how "LOW" the Phaeton will go on that "LOW" setting. Is it just another 5mm or what? Anyone know?

Whatever it is, it really doesn't matter much for North American operation. You have to be travelling at 130 km/h (about 80 MPH) for 30 seconds or more before the car will lower by itself. I don't think it is practical to plan on driving at those speeds in Eastern North America - the local cops will be into your wallet before the car can get around to lowering itself.
Michael


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## car_guy (Aug 19, 2005)

*Re: How to Adapt (derrickonline)*


_Quote, originally posted by *derrickonline* »_But to answer your question once the shoes are put on which are 20 inch rims the car would naturally sit higher and since the tires are shorter (less height) there will still be a significant amount of fender space. 

The car may not sit significantly higher as the radius of the tire/wheel combination may not change much.
For example, compare the specs (from TireRack.com) for Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires (which are not suitable for a Phaeton) in the stock 255/45-18 size and your proposed 275/35-20 size. Note that the overall diameter difference is .4 inches which means the car will sit .2 inches higher off the ground. If my calcs are correct, this is about 5 mm.
Note that the difference in overall diameter will differ between other brands and models of tires. It is easy, however, to look up your specific application.
In my opinion, while the 20" wheel/tire combination may not significantly fill the wheel well more completely, it certainly will make it _appear_ to do so since the eye is more drawn to the wheel size than the tire size. I personally would not be willing to make the sacrifice in ride comfort that I would expect with the shorter tire sidewall. I am very interested in your actual results. 
Steven


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (car_guy)*

Dramatic situation. During adjustment of car height (changing from NA to EU) my notebook hang up. 
Effect: warning light and message at the dashboard "level fault workshop". I can not cancel this error, security access code (31564) doesn't work. I got message "ERROR; WRONG SECURITY CODE" on my VAG-COM. I saw also a message that adjustment process is not finished but I can not do anything thru VAG. Is there any other security code (I found on vwvortex - probably not). What about idea to use Can Commander to read security code? This software can do it but I'm not sure for this module. Any experience on it? Any procedure to go back to proper state? I did it previously few times (changing the suspension height) without any problems and now.... drama. What should I do?
Is it safe to drive (safe for me and for suspension) with this error?



_Modified by Debart at 3:31 PM 8-8-2008_


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (Debart)*

Dominik:
Please let me know what the letter suffix at the end of the identification number for your suspension controller is. The controller part number is 3D0-907-553, this will be displayed when you open the controller using VAG-COM. There will be a letter on the end of that number, likely an A or a B. If the letter is an A, you can adapt the suspension following the procedure on the first page of this post. If the letter is a B, you cannot, and the only way you can lower the car to European specifications is by purchasing a European controller.
The security code is the same for all controllers - 31564.
Personally, I think you just need to start the whole process over again tomorrow morning. Be aware that the adaptation process will not work if you have any door or lid (trunk, hood) open. This means you have to plug in the diagnostic scan tool, run the cable out via an open driver door window, and put the laptop on a stool or chair sitting outside the car. Also, I recommend you leave the engine running during the process, this will avoid problems caused by the battery voltage falling too low.
Michael
Michael


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## Debart (May 26, 2008)

*Re: How to Adapt (PanEuropean)*

Hah! I'm lucky guy!
Short story:
This afternoon I tried once again adapt the suspension. No chance. Still error: ERROR, SECURITY ACCESS CODE NOT ACCEPTED. Fault code: 01437 - control position not learned, 005 - no or incorrect basic settings/adaptation. Security access code 31546 not accepted by module!








Then I enterd code 10273 instead 31546. Code accepted but still 31546 did not work and I couldn't cancel the fault. 
Then I entered 41172 code and.... SUCCESS ! Code was accepted and retyped 31546 security code was also accepted by module.








I set suspension back to NA values.
Unfortunatelly my controller is 3D0-907-553-B. So, I can not adapt the suspension to EU. (I boght a while moment ago a used module with A at the end - price 150Euros on local polish internet auction).








What I can not do is modification of FOB to automatic close windows from the key. It doesn't work. Have rare 0100 controller and this trick with channel 25 doesn't work,








Intersting fact: after changing DLR to EU (previously was scandinavian settings to start head lamps after ignition automatically) I've learnt that cruise controll indicator changed from word CRUISE to nice green dial symbol with an arrow. Really intersting
Thank you Michael for your valuable description and help! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 
Now I'm waiting for new controller to adapt suspension to EU!
Dominik


_Modified by Debart at 7:56 AM 8-9-2008_


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## [email protected] (Mar 9, 2007)

*Re: How to Adapt (PanEuropean)*


_Quote, originally posted by *PanEuropean* »_
This means you have to plug in the diagnostic scan tool, run the cable out via an open driver door window, and put the laptop on a stool or chair sitting outside the car. -Michael

Michael, wouldn't this be easier with a wireless scan tool?








(Hello from across the water, btw)


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: How to Adapt ([email protected])*

Resurected..... so with the vagcom I can only lower it 10mm or 15mm? its this nearly enough? whats that 1/2 inch? im slow sorry
how about putting 20" rims and keep a 40 profile tire like in the 19'? how about 21" rims I seen some in europe but not here, do they rub or have issues?
thanks


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## JulianBenjamin (Jun 22, 2007)

*Re: How to Adapt (Reflect)*

This thread mentions that you can't enter values other than 55 or 77, but when I lowered mine, it accepted 44. I changed it back to 55 as with the 44 it bottomed out on a couple of street transitions.


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: How to Adapt (JulianBenjamin)*

omb really? How u do that, that's awesome. I'm doing the today and also did it give u any fault. Or trouble other than the rubbin in some weird streets? Let me know please
Has anyone else done this ?


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: How to Adapt (Reflect)*

ok just to clarify, the car lets you go real lowww! but there's something in the way at the front. thats why you need a shorter part for that. its only reason it rubs
real you can go real low no problem, so i dont get why someone said you need a module or some sort of gizmo for it other than the shorter piece for suspension.
All you do its change 77 or 55 to 44 or 33 or 22 11 real low lol.
Fun if you are park and do 00 or 11 its like amost flush with fender but the part in front touches so you cant drive it, looks cool though parked or in a GTG or show http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


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## bobm (Mar 2, 2004)

*Re: How to Adapt (Reflect)*


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## Reflect (Apr 4, 2007)

*Re: How to Adapt (bobm)*

just like that bob, I had mines about that low. did you modify the front? or u can only do that while parked?


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## aubergine2004 (Oct 2, 2009)

*Re: How to Adapt (Reflect)*

hi
My heights are off from side to side --- can "adapting" correct this problem?
-Paul


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Re: How to Adapt (aubergine2004)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aubergine2004* »_My heights are off from side to side --- can "adapting" correct this problem?

Yes, absolutely. In fact, that is the primary reason why you (or the technician) has the ability to adapt the system. Volkswagen uses the word 'adapt' because that is the literal translation from the German word, however, "calibrate" probably would have been a better choice.
In other words, whenever you see the word 'adapt' used to refer to an adjustment process for any controller (including adjustments you can make without a diagnostic scan tool, such as auto-up windows, power seat fore and aft movement, sunroof range of motion, etc.), interpret the word to mean 'calibrate'.
So, if your car is a bit lopsided, carry out a suspension adaptation and you will fix the problem - assuming, of course, that nothing is physically broken.
Michael


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## mikes phaeton1 (Jan 3, 2010)

*Re: (jmdpjd1)*

Michael,
I need some assistance on this. I opened up the latest version of Ross Tech and went to the Contoller 34. I recoded from 77 to 55 and saved my work. I followed the instruction above exactly (so I think). Here is what is happeneing. It will let me enter the security code. When I go to adaptation and click channel one, the car moves down (actually to the desired level), then is rises back up again. Channel one says 407MM. I change to 401MM, test, and wait till is says Value Valid then click save (car does not move at all). I repeat this procedure through channel 2, 3, and then 4. Ironically, the measurements on my car for channel 3 and 4 are already set to 401MM. I go to channel 5 and enter 1, then save and get out of the program. Nothing happens? I go through the procedure again and again and it never saves my information. When I go to adaptation, the original 407MM for channel 1 and 2 are in there again? The only time the car gets to the desired position is when I first click channel 1 when the car moves down. Unfortunately the car goes back up again and that is the last time it moves through the entire process. What I am doing wrong. The software is up to date, the car is an 04 Phaeton V8, the VAG tool is brand new?
Thanks Mike


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

Great post guys, thanks!
The latest Vag-Com software worked very quickly. There was no waiting. We changed the coding and did two adaptations in a few minutes. The car started out quite a bit higher than even NA specs in the back, after lowering it to European specs it looks much nicer.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Mike, John:

Uh, give me a few days to get back to you guys, I just got home after being out of the country since Dec 26 and I am BURIED in work.

Mike, check your suspension controller part number, if it ends in 'B', you cannot adapt it, game is over. Only controllers ending in 'A' can be recalibrated. If you have a controller ending in 'A' and are still having difficulty, check to ensure that all doors, lids (trunk, hood) are closed before you begin work. This means you put the driver door window down and run the cable out the open window, the laptop then sits on a kitchen chair just outside the driver door.

Michael


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## johnt26 (Dec 3, 2009)

PanEuropean said:


> Mike, John:
> 
> Uh, give me a few days to get back to you guys, I just got home after being out of the country since Dec 26 and I am BURIED in work.
> 
> ...


Michael,

I know your crazy after just getting back, get caught up and chill for awhile before you worry about us!
I think you meant the "C" suffix controllers can't be adapted, "B" controllers can!
From your earlier post #23:

"The following shows the part number, part number suffix, software revision level and coding for the suspension controller in a typical 2004 Phaeton:

Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 B
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C1V0 1101
Coding: 0015500

This shows the same information for a typical 2005 Phaeton:

Address 34: Level Control
Controller: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1121
Coding: 0007722

The first indication we had of a possible problem was the series of posts by blueabdjetta and vwgotech, above, telling of the problems they were having trying to recode a 2005 Phaeton. At the Birmingham, AL get-together this past week, David and I attempted to recode and re-adapt Robert's 2005 Phaeton, and no matter what we did, the controller would not accept any change to the coding of 0007722. Between the two of us, David and I have recoded and re-adapted about 30 Phaetons, so it is unlikely that we were doing anything wrong (e.g. leaving a door or lid open during the adaptation process)."


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## WillemBal (Nov 20, 2010)

*The meaning of calibration*



PanEuropean said:


> Volkswagen uses the word 'adapt' because that is the literal translation from the German word, however, "calibrate" probably would have been a better choice.


Uhh, Michael, I'm not so sure about that. I think that VW, like many other quality companies, has adopted the quality management systems as described by the ISO organisation, like ISO-9001. The actual meaning of "Calibration" (Kalibration in German) is "to determine the relationship between something you measure and something known". The actual phrasing is a little more complex, but this is somewhat easier to understand. This (re) defining of the word calibration was necessary, because there was a large difference in interpretation between suppliers (of calibrated equipment or calibration services) and customers. Suppliers were using the word calibration to indicate the whole process of tweaking and adjustment to obtain a result that would "satisfy" the customer, whereas customers were assuming that their equipment was verified against known standards.
The process of adjustment is actually not essential to calibration. Calibration normally results in a calibration certificate, which lists the measured values against the known values (as measured with instruments with a higher degree of uncertainty). Calibration also includes the process of establishing the relationships between measured values (i.e. some physical phenomenon) and the desired value. This can be a simple linear relationship, but might as well be a complex math model

So calibration is more like a process to verify (for instance, the use of known masses to verify deviation of a mass balance) than to adjust something. One Phaeton example of calibration is the documentation of the results of the alignment procedure. The dealer uses calibrated equipment to align (=adjustment) the wheels of the car. Before he adjusts anything, he checks the alignment, resulting in a document stating a lot of numbers, measured values, desired values and deviations, in green or red. When all is green, then that document is the calibration certificate. When deviations are out of tolerance, then he adjusts the alignment. Then afterwards, he again does a verification (the first part of the calibration). Next, he prints the results along with desired values, a document which is nothing less than a calibration certificate.
The calibration certificates that I know of, sometimes include the phrase "adjusted before calibration", to indicate that something was adjusted. Then the results prior and after calibration are listed to give information about the performance of the piece of calibrated equipment.
So IMO, the whole process of tweaking the suspension is nothing more than adjustment. For quality reasons, "calibration" is not the right term for this process.


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## rv02tx (Aug 18, 2008)

*Anything new here, original was 2005 instructions*

I have an 04 Phaeton W12, thinking 20mm lowering and knocking off TPMS codes. The motor is a BAP, I'm not quite sure about the 3D code mentioned. I had an 05 Phaeton V8 and could not get anything back in 07 to work with the Ross-Tech VAG-COM. They tech support at that time had old software and didn't say anything could be programmed without fault codes showing on dash and that they sell it as diagnostic tool only. Now they told me yesterday that the new SW allows for more and they have more documentation - basically referring me to this forum every question I ask.


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Reed:

Welcome to the forum.

VW made a small change in the firmware programmed into the suspension controller near the beginning of MY 2005 production. Controllers used in MY 2003 and 2004 cars, and a limited number of early production 2005 cars could be adjusted from the default North American ride height (10 mm above nominal, in other words, '77' set as the code) to the default European ride height (equal to nominal, in other words, '55' set as the code) quite simply. 

All that had to be done was recoding the module from 77 to 55, then carry out a re-adaptation of the ride height as described in the first pages of this thread.

The later production controllers (with effect from early MY 2005 production, but retrofittable to all prior production if a replacement was needed) did not permit this change to be made.

Have a browse through the first few pages of this thread and you will find the background information you need to determine what kind of controller is fitted on your car and how to recode and re-adapt things. If you have the original controller fitted in a NAR W12 'Premiere Edition', it will be the earlier version of the controller that can be re-coded.

The difference between the two controllers is reflected in the letter suffix of the controller part number.

Michael


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Photos re-hosted.

Michael


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

*Successfully changed suspension height coding on my 2006!*

I've read that people can't re-code their NAR spec cars to the European ride height if they have the most recent controller version, part number 3D0 907 553 C. That always seemed weird to me, because I've seen VCDS scans of European cars and they're using the same controller part number and the same software versions, and they obviously accept the European coding.

Today I was working on something else and had experimentally re-coded several other modules as if the car were in Europe. I went into the suspension controller to do the same, thinking it wouldn't work, but I got a nice surprise when it took AND the car lowered itself right on the spot. No login or security code needed, no ride height calibration needed. It seems I can re-code between 0007732 (NAR W12 +10mm) and 0005531 (ROW W12 +0mm) at will. I tried a few other combinations, and it looks like the controller will only accept the stock ride height for the selected market (NAR +10mm, ROW +0mm).

Since then I've rolled back most of my other experimental changes, leaving me with a NAR spec W12 set at European ride height. I have theories on why this worked, but I'm still trying to prove which it was and find the minimum set of steps to enable the change.

If there's anyone out there with a 2006 (or late 2005), a copy of VCDS and an interest in lowering your Phaeton, let me know. I'd like to validate the process on another car.

Jason


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

Since this change, I've actually tried to put my car back in a state where I CAN'T re-code the suspension to Euro spec, and I'm not able. I'm becoming less convinced there was anything about this module we're "locked out" of, and more convinced that we just didn't have the right coding values to use for the new generation controller. I don't seem to be able to choose custom heights, even though the middle digits correspond to the height index for the old module, but it seems you're free to change your market to one with a nominal height you prefer.

So far, I've identified the following codings that all work on my car:



0005531 - Rest of World W12/V10, normal height = design height
0007732 - North American Region W12/V10, normal height = +10mm from design height
0028833 - Rough road/off-road W12/V10, normal height = +15mm over design height (discovered from VAS-PC)

I would assume the other engine codings work as well, where appropriate. I haven't tried those. Please let me know if you're interested in testing. I'd be happy to look up the right coding for other engine variants.

I was interested to find the HIGH setting cut-off, the speed where the car auto-lowers to nominal, seems to be substantially higher for the ROW market coding than the NAR coding.

Jason


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

jyoung8607 said:


> So far, I've identified the following codings that all work on my car:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi Jason:

I think you have discovered something that has eluded the rest of us for the past 8 years, and that is the difference in the last digit of the 553*1* coding and the 773*2* coding... not to mention the *28833* coding, which is entirely new to all of us!

In other words, with the 'C' suffix controller, it appears that it is necessary to change the last digit of the coding in order to be able to successfully transition from NAR calibration to ROW calibration. 

FYI, below is the information from the existing VCDS label file. When I wrote the original label file many years ago, I did not know about the 'C' suffix controller tweak. Evidently someone (probably Sebastian) has added this information, most likely in 2011 (judging from the notes within the label file). You can look at the label file in detail by searching for it - the file name is 3D0-907-553.lbl, it can be found in the root of your drive, in the Ross-Tech folder, then within the Labels folder. It is nothing more than a text file, you can open it with any text editor (Notepad, Wordpad, etc.) and review it.

Michael
*Coding Instructions from VCDS label file*


;---------------------------------------------------
;
; coding
;
;---------------------------------------------------
;
;
C00,*Level Control System (J197) Coding*
C01,00?xxxx: Headlight Range Control
C02,0 = Standard/Not Specified [only 3D0-907-553-C]
C03,1 = Level Sensor Information via Level Control [through 3D0-907-553-B & 3W0-907-553]
C04,2 = Level Sensor Information partly via Headlight Aim Control [through 3D0-907-553-B]
C06,00x?xxx: Front Axle
C10,0 = -25 mm / 1 = -20 mm / 2 = -15 mm / 3 = -10 mm / 4 = -5 mm
C11,5 = ±0 mm / 6 = +5 mm / 7 = +10 mm / 8 = +15 mm / 9 = +20 mm
C09,00xx?xx: Rear Axle
C10,0 = -25 mm / 1 = -20 mm / 2 = -15 mm / 3 = -10 mm / 4 = -5 mm
C11,5 = ±0 mm / 6 = +5 mm / 7 = +10 mm / 8 = +15 mm / 9 = +20 mm
C15,00xxx?x: Engine Type
C16,0 = Standard/Not Specified [through 3D0-907-553-B & 3W0-907-553]
C17,2 = V6/V8 Engine [only 3D0-907-553-C]
C18,3 = V10/W12 Engine [only 3D0-907-553-C]
C20,00xxxx?: Market
C21,0 = Standard/Not Specified [through 3D0-907-553-B & 3W0-907-553]
C22,1 = Rest of World (RoW) [only 3D0-907-553-C]
C23,2 = North American Region (NAR) [only 3D0-907-553-C]
C24,3 = Region with Rough Roads [only 3D0-907-553-C]
;

*PS:* I have appended this new information onto the end of the existing discussion about Suspension Calibration - the discussion that is listed in the FAQ.


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## jyoung8607 (Feb 14, 2006)

PanEuropean said:


> Hi Jason:
> 
> I think you have discovered something that has eluded the rest of us for the past 8 years, and that is the difference in the last digit of the 553*1* coding and the 773*2* coding... not to mention the *28833* coding, which is entirely new to all of us!
> 
> ...


The label file is where I got the NAR/ROW coding values from. I could swear I tried them back in fall 2011 when I bought the car, but I guess not. It's worth noting that security access is NOT necessary, and in fact, '31564' does not work.

It seems much simpler now that you've cleared up the background. You guys didn't have coding data for the Rev -C controllers when they came out, Sebastian silently added it at some point much later, then I came along in 2012 thinking it's way more complicated than it really is. I still would like a 2006 or late 2005 volunteer to try it and make sure it "just works".

I was in touch with Sebastian a long while back when I did label files for Climatronic and Wiper Electronics. I think I will re-do the coding helper section, break apart the old vs. new for clarity, and better describe which exact combinations are valid for Rev -C controllers, and pass that along to Ross-Tech.

Jason


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hi Jason:

Great, a thousand thanks for helping with the label files. If you would like to communicate with me directly - for example, if you need any information about how the original label files were written up way back in 2005 - feel free to send me an email. I have sent you my private email address by IM.

Michael


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## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

so just how low can you go via VCDS without fooling the car by entering pie in the sky height numbers? 

also has anyone with a bit of experience lowering the phaeton been able to use numbers lower than 55? seems like only user reflect has been sucessful there?

also has anyone tried using numbers lower than 55 with either of the two security codes mentioned by debart?

41172
10273

and last but not least does anyone know what road speed the suspension lowers further at on ROW spec models? 

i want to lower mine below the current height (which im gathering is probably ROW spec and coded as 55) and would like to keep the car "in the loop" so to speak and not resort to making up some adjustable linkages for the level sensors. im not looking to slam the car but i would like to lower it something in the region of 35-55mm. also is there a way to disable the automatic lowering at speed? might not be too good if the car were sitting say 45mm lower and then at speed decides to drop another 15mm or so.. my E30 is lowered 60mm front and 55mm rear and it likes to kiss the tarmac with bits of the exhaust at times. does no harm but id rather the phaeton not be doing the same, if i want to be a hooligan or shoot sparks from my exhaust i can just drive the E30, shes a tough old bird lol (shameless vid warning)






pics of the E30 here if anyone wants to be nosey:
http://www.wmmotorsports.co.uk/projectbmw325i.htm


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)




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## mullet5 (Feb 8, 2002)

I have made several attempts to set my '04 V8 to ROW ride height. I enter 5's in the coding, and then it accepts security code 31564. When I enter Adaptation, the car lowers itself, the adaptation window says "Ready", but then about 10 seconds later it raises itself back up to where it was (NAR ride height), and does not come back down, even after adaptation is complete. I have gone through this many times, over several different days. Any ideas?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello:

You have to carry out two different processes to change the ride height.

The first process is changing the coding - sounds like you have already done that. 

The second process is to 're-adapt' (adjust, calibrate) the four corners of the car. That process is explained in detail, with many photographs, on the first page of this discussion.

Read the instructions about how to carry out the adaptation carefully, because if you overlook any one of the various requirements (for example, all doors must be closed, trunk and hood must be closed, etc.), you will not get past square 1.

Michael


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## mullet5 (Feb 8, 2002)

Hi Michael, 

First, thank you for all of the time you put into the Phaeton community, I have learned a huge amount from your posts here. With help from you and all of the other contributors I have programmed kessy to my liking, fixed the trunk microswitch, installed ROW tail lights and headlight switch. I am leaving for a ten day road trip in the Phaeton in a couple of days, and I will post some pictures up, hopefully I will get some others inspired to hit the road in their Phaetons. 

I have followed your procedure exactly. I think I have done four separate sessions, each one consisting of perhaps five tries. Each time I get the same results. Code, security, enter adaptation, car lowers, then raises. It will allow me to complete adaptation (all four truthful measurements, set channel five to "1"), and I get no fault codes, it simply does not lower the car. 

Side note: Just as an experiment, on my last attempt I fibbed the measurements (I think I entered a value about 15mm too high) and that lowered the car. Does that tell you anything?

Question 1: When you open the adaptation window, Is it normal for the car to lower itself to the new ROW height, then come back up to NAR?

Question 2: Any chance this could be a bad ride height sensor, or would that throw a code?


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

Hello Sir:

My first guess, if you have done everything correctly but the car still does not co-operate, is that you might have a later generation suspension controller that is less co-operative than the original specification controller that was installed at the factory. I have run into that situation a few times in the past, it is uncommon, but possible.

So, may I trouble you to let us know the part number for the controller, including the letter suffix? It is the letter suffix that is the most critical bit of information.

When you first open up the controller with VAG-COM, the part number and letter suffix will be displayed. In the screen-shot below (a very old screen-shot, the VAG-COM presentation has likely changed somewhat since 2005), the part number is shown as the 'VAG Number' and appears as 3D0 907 533B. Let us know what part number you have installed - I am wondering if the suffix is higher than 'B'.

Michael


*Screen shot (very old) showing part number of controller installed in car*


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## mullet5 (Feb 8, 2002)

Just snuck outside from the dinner party I am at to check, my controller part number matches the one in your screen shot exactly. Hmmm...


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

Hoping for a bit of clarification. I just lowered my P to ROW spec '0015500' and then fibbed the numbers to obtain a further 15mm/10mm drop f/r. I have 275/35/20's, so I'm already sitting about 1/4" higher just from the tires. So I figure I'm only lowering my chin about 8-9mm lower than euro height. I feel ok with that amount of clearance where I live and the way I drive.

Instead of fibbing the numbers though, I'd rather do it all by coding. Early in this thread I saw it mentioned that you could not use anything lower than the '55's in the coding. Then I saw later that someone had gotten it to work. So what's the status?

I would like to use '0013400', which would put me -10mm/-5mm from ROW. I'd feel VERY happy and comfortable with that. Thanks for any info.

Aaron


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## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

IwasHuman said:


> Early in this thread I saw it mentioned that you could not use anything lower than the '55's in the coding. Then I saw later that someone had gotten it to work. So what's the status?


Hi Aaron:

I've never had any success using coding with less than '55', and I have never seen (personally) anyone in Europe who has had success with that either.

Best advice I can give you is this: If you have got the car looking the way you want - don't mess with it, because you run the chance of screwing up something you have already put a lot of work into achieving.

Michael


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## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

PanEuropean said:


> Hi Aaron:
> 
> I've never had any success using coding with less than '55', and I have never seen (personally) anyone in Europe who has had success with that either.
> 
> ...


Thanks Michael,

My thing is, I'd rather not lie to the controller. It's a very small amount, but if I'm given the choice between putting in a '0013400' or telling the computer it's 10/5mm higher than it is, I'd rather do it through coding. 

So when you put in lower numbers than '55's, is it just rejecting it or defaulting back to '55's? Or is it taking, say, '0013300' but then when you go to adaptation, it's still looking for values of 407 and 401? Wonder if it would make a difference if we put a '2' in for the vehicle code. I want to go through the adaptation process again, to try and get it closer. When I do my post-adaptation check, my left side is coming out almost spot on, within +/-2mm's of nominal. But my right side is coming up closer to +/-5mm's. And I'm getting my lowest in the FL and my highest in the RR.

In your step after adaptation, to back it out about 15ft and then back in before doing the check, I think that's having an affect on how the car's settling down. My driveway's a little crooked and has an incline. It might be twisting just a bit. I need to find a friend with a flatter driveway I think.

I also came up with another method for measuring that worked out easier for me. Instead of trying to measure from center of the hub to fender, I took the total diameter of the wheel, from lip edge to edge, divide by 2 to get the radius. That way I can measure from the fender edge to the wheel edge using the credit card, and add the radius. The radius will be constant, whereas I found trying to use a credit card to eyeball the center of the hub could vary a bit. Next time you're doing an adaptation, maybe give that a shot and see how it works for you.

Aaron


----------



## MMMarley (Jul 10, 2011)

jyoung8607 said:


> ... I still would like a 2006 or late 2005 volunteer to try it and make sure it "just works"...


Hi Jason,

I just got myself a HEX-CAN cable from Ross-Tech, and have been "playing" with various coding and adaptations. I can confirm that the ride height adjustment from NAR to ROW "just works" with my 2006 V8 with controller #34 with the "C" suffix.

My coding prior to making any changes per VCDS was:

_Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1122 
Coding: 0007722
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 275D332795296D20406

No fault code found._

When I entered Coding = 0005521, my suspension immediately dropped 10mm, with no further adaptation or changes. I re-coded back to 0007722, and the suspension immediately raised 10mm. I tried entering 0003321 for testing purposes, and received an error message that the code was outside of parameters. I entered 0005521 again, and the suspension again dropped 10mm immediately.

Thank you for posting about this latest ride height discovery! I thought I would have to spend much more time in my cold Michigan garage making this change, measuring and adapting each wheel, etc., but this turned out to be quick and easy.

Cheers,
Chris


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

It worked!! Last night I got a little free time and decided to try coding below '55'. I started by using '33'. Re-adapted. Then I input 0011200, target values Front=387, Rear=386. And these are the measurements I'm actually getting, except for one oddity. My right side always seems to wind up 5mm too high. I did the adaptation process 4 times. I struggled a bit for a while because the left side would measure pretty much spot on, but the right would be about 8mm too high, and when I entered the actual value it came back Invalid. Seems if you tell the car just how far off it really is, it doesn't like it. I did manage to get 3 full adaptations done, always with the same result. I'm suspecting a bit that it could have something to do with the levelness of my garage. I plan on getting a 6' beam level and maybe some floor tiles to make sure I have all four wheels on a level surface before I give it another go. 

As far as the height goes, I think it's right where I want it. I'll have to do some curb checks around town to make sure I'm still at a safe height. 

Aaron


----------



## wetsiderkg (Dec 28, 2012)

Aaron - 

Please post some pics when your done, I'd like to see what the car looks like at this height.

Thanks!


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

wetsiderkg said:


> Aaron -
> 
> Please post some pics when your done, I'd like to see what the car looks like at this height.
> 
> Thanks!


 I might want to wash it first. But here's a pic the way it was when I bought the car, which was -25/-24 from factory NAR height. The dealer did this by fooling the controller. 










My drop is -30/-25 from factory NAR, through actual coding. What's funny is when I was talking to my Phaeton tech and told him about lowering via the coding, he had no idea about it. And he's a really knowledgeable guy about this car.

Once the weather turns nice again I'll be giving my car the full wash/polish treatment and taking tons of pics.

Aaron


----------



## wetsiderkg (Dec 28, 2012)

Thanks for sharing Aaron. I can't get the car to accept the 33 code? tried several times over a couple days. Odd yours worked? Are you getting any rubbing?


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

No rubbing at all. Haven't gone up any curbs, ride quality feels good. Haven't hit the bump stops. No regrets yet!

I started off going to 55, and doing a true adaptation. Then I did 55 and fooled the computer. I did the adaptation at least 5-6 times like that to get it level. I waited a couple weeks and then went for the 33, did the adaptation, and it worked. Then I did the 12 and re adaptation three full times. 

When you set it to 33 are you getting target values of 407/401 or are they 397/391? Are you in a 2004? Have you had the newer air springs and controller installed? I saw that other people weren't able to get it to work. No idea why I'm able.

Aaron


----------



## wetsiderkg (Dec 28, 2012)

Mine will not even allow the 33 value to be input in coding, only 55 and 77 are acceptable. I've already peformed the 55 recoding and adaptation, but would like it a little lower. I also tried to trick it using different values using code 55, but the computer will simply not accept any values other than 407 and 401 in my case. Oh well, not a big deal anyway.


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

Strange. Well before I purchased, my Phaeton was owned by the local VW dealers owners son. So maybe they worked some magic and unlocked some super powers. Wonder what else I can do...

Aaron


----------



## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

just recoded the controller on my 04 3.2. it took the coding values 33 no problem (was 55 standard) and after adaptation and wheel centre measurements it came down to the appropriate height but i noticed it is saying "level fault workshop" on the screen in the cluster. i have not driven the car apart from up and down the street after the adaptation so im hoping it will be a case of the fault message going away once the car has been driven a few miles as i get the same level fault message after setting the suspension to jack mode as if i were going to change a wheel and that message goes away once driven a mile or 2. 

we used the security code 31564 which worked no problem. all in all the process went smoothly with no hang ups in VCDS and no issues with the controller not accepting any of the coding or measurement values we put in.

ill drive the car around like this for a bit and see how i like it, may go lower after that as the high height appears to still be the same as before while the normal height is lower. 

id like to ask of the few who have gone lower than 55 on the controller, at what point (coding value with honest measurements) does the issue with the stuff in the front of the car catching and not being drivable happen? is it at 11 or 00 as im thinking of going down to 22.

also FWIW we tried taking initial measurements on a couple different surfaces but with no one sitting on the car the drivers side was measuring higher than the passengers side.. with someone sitting in the drivers seat the measurements were even so we did the recoding process with someone sitting in the drivers seat. have not noticed anyone else in this thread mentioning the car being a little higher on the drivers side without someone sitting in the drivers seat.. possibly something to do with the previous owner? he was a rather large chap lol

EDIT: we cleared the fault with VCDS but the adaptation didnt take. we tried again but kept getting errors after channel 1, a couple times we got up to channel 5 to save it but had issues on channel 5. going to try it again on friday, thinking maybe we were doing the adaptation too fast although channels 1-4 were ready when we put in the measurements.. we tried as low as 00 in the controller and the car would go down but the adaptations wouldnt take on all channels for some reason. maybe the ground wasnt level enough?


----------



## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

got coding and adaptation all sorted today, will probably go lower though. as mentioned, my original coding was 55, i dropped down to 11, did an adaptation and it dropped down a bit, still thinking of going lower but the only thing id like to know is can i disable the automatic drop to the low setting above whatever speed it was? i could go a little lower than id feel comfortable with at the minute if i could disable the extra drop below the normal set height at speed.

can i disable the speed lowering and how would i do it? working on the same controller?


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

I went to '12' and have not had any problems whatsoever. My wife hasn't even curbed the bumper yet. 

As for the high speed lowering, I know there's info somewhere on the forums that would be more exact. But, I believe you have to drive at above 85mph for more than a minute or something. At least for us in the US, we'll rarely have a chance to do that. 

Aaron.


----------



## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Aaron,

The suspension heights are adjusted at various speeds and conditions according to the chart below. I hope that helps.

Chris


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks Chris.

Wow, I was pretty close, 30 sec at 140kph (85mph) or immediately at 180kph (110mph)


----------



## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

yea i saw the chart before but is there any way to turn it off via vagcom? im at coding 11 at the minute and would like to go lower. i forgot to move the car after coding it at 55 and doing an adaptation to get it back to normal and then coding to 11 and another adaptation.. as i didnt move the car after the adaptation at 55 im guessing im sitting lower than i would at 11 had i moved the car on the previous adaptation. at any rate its sitting nicely at the minute and not super low but if i can turn off the speed related lowering i could go down more without worry of the car becoming too low when it drops another 15mm or so above 85mph as i would stretch the legs up to around 90 or occasionally into the triple digits and i wouldnt want it to go lower than i set it incase whatever it is that poses problems in the front were to catch at speed.

hopefully pan european will chime in here as im wanting to see if i can disable the speed lowering sooner rather than later as i may take the phaeton to an easter weekend cruise and would like to lower it as much as possible while still being drivable.


----------



## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

anyone?

also i tried to go down from 11 to 00 today but when entering the measurements in the adaptation channel i could not get past channel 1 as it kept saying invalid regardless of what number i put it be it actual measured or higher/lower so its all messed up again and now i have to go back to 55 and restore defaults and then do an adaptation for 55 in an hour or so and try again at 11 or 00.

this invalid thing is getting annoying as its totally screwing up the adaptations when it starts doing that.


----------



## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

how low does this look to you guys who have gone down to 00 or 11 on the controller? this is at 00 but the measurements for all wheels are higher than the reference values for coding 00, it usually wont let me enter the actual measurements though, atleast not on all 4 corners any of the times i have tried. i feel like it should definately be able to go lower once i figure out why the measurements are reading 10mm+ higher than the reference values. seems like it thinks its lower than it actually is?










what do you guys think? try recoding back to 55 and doing another honest adaptation then shoot for 00 or 11 and see if the actual values are closer second time around? i found a nice level spot in work where i can tweak the settings.


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

That looks about as low as mine at 12. I had the same problem as you, and what I found to work was to do a true adaptation at 55, then a true adapt at 33, then I went to 12. It seems like taking such a drastic step down makes the controller angry. 

Aaron


----------



## DmcL (Sep 30, 2012)

handy to know.. 

i wonder if you started at 55 (or maybe even 77) and worked your way down one coding digit at a time down to 11 or 00 would it then sit lower than going 55, 33, 11(or 00). what was annoying me is that the car can go a fair bit lower than it is at present because when i started an adaptation it would lower the car all the way down then raise back up before entering the measurements then the stubborn barsteward wouldnt take all of the actual measurements and would taunt me with "invalid" :facepalm:

havent had a chance to play around with it anymore but might try and get it lower one day this week after work, that spot i took the pic is about as level as i can find, took a 6 foot spirit level and checked it and after shimming up the drivers side (RHD) with some thin bits of plywood i got it more or less perfectly level left to right, it was already spot on front to back there. definately makes adaptations alot easier the closer to 100% level the ground is.

lastly.. what is it the front end catches on when going uber low? does it catch the driveshaft or what?


----------



## IwasHuman (Jun 30, 2012)

I got mine to a true adaptation, but I know what you mean. When I went straight from 77 to 33, it wouldn't take anything near the true measurements. 55 > 33 > 12 worked pretty well for me. But I bet if you hit every digit on your way down, you'll have less chance of problems. 

Really glad to hear someone else is able to get something lower than 55 to take. I thought I was just an odd ball.

Not really sure what catches. Seems the first thing would be the belly pan/shield, the plastic bit under the engine.

Aaron


----------



## PanEuropean (Nov 3, 2001)

*Archival Note:*

Related discussion with some interesting information about troubleshooting difficulties carrying out a suspension adaptation - Phaeton 2005 Suspension adaptation

Also, just a reminder to everyone that *all doors and lids need to be closed on the car whenever you are doing a suspension adaptation.* This means all 4 doors as well as the hood and the trunk lid. The easiest way to accomplish this is to lower the driver door window all the way, open the driver door, plug the diagnostic cable into the OBD connector, run the distal end of the diagnostic cable out the open driver door window, then close the driver door. The engine _MUST _be running throughout the entire adaptation process.

Michael


----------



## Gabs08PHTN (Jan 6, 2011)

PanEuropean said:


> C15,00xxx?x: Engine Type
> C16,0 = Standard/Not Specified [through 3D0-907-553-B & 3W0-907-553]
> C17,2 = V6/V8 Engine [only 3D0-907-553-C]
> C18,3 = V10/W12 Engine [only 3D0-907-553-C]


Hi all,
A quick one for the suspension gurus!
- Will the C type controller on a V6TDI accept the suspension coding of a V10/W12? If so, will it change the suspension settings?
Thanks in advance.

Gabriel


----------



## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

So, last night I finally got round to lowering my car, which I've been meaning to do for a while, but have been putting off because of the hassle of running the USB cable through the window and arranging the laptop on a step ladder. Thanks to my shiny new HEX-NET dongle, I was able to run the process wirelessly. This job might be the single best reason for switching to HEX-NET. It still has some issues with certain Phaeton controllers, but on the whole it's good enough now to make it worth the outlay.

I did have a couple of glitches which I suspect were to do with the vehicle systems rather than the dongle. The car required entry of the security code twice, the first time I ran the procedure it did the first wheel then crapped out with a security error on the second wheel. I started again and it worked the second time. The other weird thing I found was that the rear right corner is higher than the others. It was higher before I started, and it's still higher now I've finished. I'll go out again later today to re-measure it, I think it was about 5mm higher.


----------



## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

Upon getting my 2005.5 car back from Ross Tech, with a C controller, it didn't require a security code. Just like Jason said.

Like invisiblewave's, my right rear gap was 5mm more than the left side before any modification, with the engine off and with the engine on.

I have only done the first stage and that took ten minutes. All four struts started to drop about 5 seconds after entering the coding.

I will drive it a few days and then do the second stage to try and tidy up the raised, right rear, then get an alignment if needed.

Coding was changed from 0007722 to 0005521. I tried 005522 just to double check Jason's work and as he said, it would not accept it.


----------



## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

2005.5 with C Controller I can't lower it below Euro level 0005521. If you try to raise it back up again, it will not accept 0007721. You must change it back to 0007722.

You can lower it more via adaptation but this procedure does require the code, whereas you don't need a code to lower it, unlike 2004 and first half of 2005. When you do the adaptation, nothing moves until you change channel 5 to a 1 and save it.

When I did the adaptation on the early 2005 with B Contoller, the car was moving in small increments even before I got to channel 5.

My wife and son don't want their early 05s lowered. They have the 19" Bentley rims and like to sit higher even though they are tall. They might even have me use the code Jason dug up and raise their cars another 5 mm above NA levels.

I will try my 2005.5 four seater 10 mm below Euro level for awhile and see if I cause any carnage on curbs, if my back is willing. It still has the 18" Performance rims and you feel significantly lower when you are climbing into this car compared to the others.

I might pop into Garnet VW and ask them if it needs an alignment at this level. If it does, I might raise it to Euro level and see if it needs an alignment at that level. That might be the tie breaker.

A *Q*uintessential *P*haeton owner on Vortex; minding my* Q*'s and* P*'s. 

Torn between pragmatism and pedanticism?


----------



## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

Hi,

Having trouble with adjusting. I´ve done everyting for at least 10 times but no luck, I hade to give up for now because all my attempts locked the control module.. I can not change the 55 code in the controller, out of range. When I do the adaption process every value is accepted in channnel 1-4 and confirmed in channel 5. When I return to channel 1-4 the original values show. 

Please advice. As you can see in the scan it´s the C controller in this RoW 2006.

Thursday,10,December,2015,18:55:02:51824
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 8.1 x64
VCDS Version: 15.7.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20151124
www.Ross-Tech.com

Workshop Code: 666 12345 054321

VIN: WVWZZZ3DZ78002006 License Plate: DPH169
Mileage: 188440km-117091mi Repair Order: 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 3D (3D - VW Phaeton (2002 > 2006))
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77

VIN: WVWZZZ3DZ78002006 Mileage: 188440km-117091miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 059-907-401-ASB.clb
Part No SW: 3D0 907 401 A HW: 8E0 907 401 AB
Component: 3.0L V6TDI G000AG 0010 
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ3Z0F1519600
Coding: 0011773
Shop #: WSC 12334 024 00000
VCID: 1D09E60FC77BBED660-FFFE

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09L-927-760.lbl
Part No SW: 09L 927 760 J HW: GS1 9.1 1.4 
Component: AG6 09L 3.0lTDI RdW 2205 
Revision: 00000001 Serial number: 4234859
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 3E4B01836ABDC5CE59-FFFE

2 Faults Found:
001378 - System Voltage 
P0562 - 000 - Too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
 Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 188344 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 896 /min
RPM: 864 /min
RPM: 0 /min
(no units): 30.0
(no units): 23.0
Temperature: 22.0°C
T.B. Angle: 0.0°

049408 - No Communication with Engine Control Module (SAE ECM/PCM) 
U0100 - 000 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 188344 km
Time Indication: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3D0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 3D0 614 517 AK
Component: ESP 5.7 allrad H33 0047 
Coding: 0008356
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 6BEDF8D7494F8066AE-FFFE

3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
000 - - - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 139 B HW: 5WK 485 04
Component: Kessy 6840 
Revision: 68406418 Serial number: VWZ3Z0F1519600
Coding: 0004328
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2867C7DB98396B7E03-FFFE

Subsystem 1 - Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX 
Component: ELV XXXX

3 Faults Found:
00087 - Terminal 30 for Starting Relevant Consumers 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 07: Control Head Labels: 3D0-035-00x-07.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 007 AR
Component: ZAB COCKPIT 0253 
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 69E182DF43B39276DC-FFFE

4 Faults Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
000 - - 
00483 - Control Module for Auxiliary Air Heater 
004 - No Signal/Communication
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00480 - Control Module in Instruments for Infotainment CAN (J285) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 040 J
Component: Climatronic D1 2031 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 78654 326 45725
VCID: 2579CEEFEF2B761638-FFFE

4 Faults Found:
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113) 
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00926 - Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285) 
008 - Implausible Signal

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3D0-937-049-V2.clb
Part No SW: 3D0 937 049 L HW: 3D0 937 049 L
Component: J519 6200 
Revision: -4003--- Serial number: --------------
Coding: 600200002A311D000000000000000000
Shop #: WSC 31526 143 90013
VCID: 335D20B751FF18A6A6-FFFE

2 Faults Found:
01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533) 
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285) 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 E
Component: 0H Airbag 8.4E+ H10 0935 
Coding: 0012360
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2579CEEFEF2B761638-FFFE

2 Faults Found:
01578 - Airbag Deactivation Warning Lamp; Passenger Side (K145) 
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 3D0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 3D0 953 549 D
Component: Lenksäulenmodul 3401 
Coding: 0000031
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2E6B31C3BADD354EC9-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 3D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 3D0 920 885 A
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB8 0610 
Coding: 0023111
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2867C7DB98396B7E03-FFFE

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901 
Component: Gateway K<>CAN 0101 
Coding: 0000006
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 70D7EFBB606963BE9B-FFFE

2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01207 - Control Module for Auxiliary Heater (J364) 
004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 28: HVAC, Rear Labels: 3D0-919-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 158 F
Component: Klima-Bedienteil D1 0117 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E6B31C3BADD354EC9-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 29: Left Light Labels: 3D0-909-157.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 157 A
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(l) 0001 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2765C4E7952764060A-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553-V2.clb
Part No: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1122 
Coding: 0005521
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2765C4E7952764060A-FFFE

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation Labels: 3D0-919-887.lbl
Part No: 3D0 919 887 J
Component: NAVIGATION 0188 
Coding: 0400000
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 3B4D089779AFD0E67E-FFFE

1 Fault Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 38: Roof Electronics Labels: 3D0-907-135.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 135 C
Component: Dachmodul 0708 
Coding: 0000052
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 237DD0F7E11F882656-FFFE

4 Faults Found:
00220 - Connection to Sunroof 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00403 - Sunroof Motor (V1) 
000 - - - Intermittent
00926 - Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00308 - Supply Voltage for Motors for Sunroof/sunroof Shade 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 39: Right Light Labels: 3D0-909-158.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 158 A
Component: EVG GDL+AutoLWR(r) 0001 
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2867C7DB98396B7E03-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 3D0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 3D0 959 933 F
Component: X3 HSG 0102 
Coding: 0000034
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 335D20B751FF18A6A6-FFFE

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3D1 959 701 H
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0201

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 3D1 959 702 H
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0201

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 3D0 959 703 G
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0201

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 3D0 959 704 G
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0201

Subsystem 5 - Part No: 7L0 907 719 A
Component: Neigungssensor 0020

6 Faults Found:
01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285) 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00927 - Terminal 30 (Right) 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
01516 - Terminal 30; Left 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00926 - Terminal 30 
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 7Lx-035-4xx-47.lbl
Part No: 3D0 035 465 A
Component: 08K-AUDIOVERST 0112 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 1F75DC07CD77ACC672-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: None
Part No: 3D0 907 273 G
Component: Reifendruckueberw. 0026 
Coding: 0210330
Shop #: WSC 10158 002 1048576
VCID: 2A633DD38635596E15-FFFE

2 Faults Found:
01521 - Sensor for Tire Pressure 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent - MIL ON
02757 - Learning Tire Pressures 
000 - - - MIL ON

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 68: Wiper Electr. Labels: 3Dx-955-1xx-V1.clb
Part No: 3D1 955 119 A
Component: Front Wiper 2005 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2765C4E7952764060A-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 71: Battery Charger Labels: 3D0-915-181.lbl
Part No: 3D0 915 181 D
Component: Batteriemanagement 2800 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 247FD3EBE4118F1E2F-FFFE

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: None
Part No: 3D0 919 283 D
Component: 01 Einparkhilfe 0907 
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2B6D38D789CF4066EE-FFFE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 77: Telephone Labels: 3W7-035-385.lbl
Part No SW: 3W7 035 385 H HW: 3W7 035 385 H
Component: UHV Premium rSAP 0038 
Coding: 0002320
Shop #: WSC 49344 126 91108
VCID: 41B17A7F1B43BA3624-FFFE

2 Faults Found:
00003 - Control Module 
014 - Defective
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 11:23)--------------------------


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Did you have all the doors closed?


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

invisiblewave said:


> Did you have all the doors closed?


Doors closed and engine running during the whole operation. I´m a regular VCDS user since 2012 so it´s nothing new to me using the tool. I had exact the same issue with a 2007 Touareg. Both level fine in #1 and i run through al the channels without being rejected. But the new values does not stay.
Could the WSC have something to do with it? Or that´s it is a RoW? I´ve looked in european forums as well, the procedure looks the same.


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## robbie-rocket-pants (Mar 25, 2012)

Hi Andy,

It took me many, many attempts to calibrate my suspension as I would get part way through the process and VCDS would freeze. It may just be that you need to keep trying. 

A lot of your scan faults seem to show a voltage problem. Is your battery fully charged ?

Robbie


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

robbie-rocket-pants said:


> Hi Andy,
> 
> It took me many, many attempts to calibrate my suspension as I would get part way through the process and VCDS would freeze. It may just be that you need to keep trying.
> 
> ...


Hi Robbie,

This is a friends car, I did not have the time yesterday so sort out the faults or clear them. It is the slowest scan I ever made...
Battery should not be the problem, I had the car running and had no other issues. I did so many attempts that the controller locked me out.
You´re saying I should continue arguing with the controller? I tried to save the values with 1mm difference and 20mm difference since my plan was to lower the car. Same result. Changes accepted but not stored. VCDS does not freeze in this process.


//Andy


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## steveskinr (Oct 31, 2007)

Just to make sure...

From 2005.5 and later
When you do the adaptation, nothing moves until you change channel 5 to a 1 and save it.

On the earlier controllers, that is not the case.


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

steveskinr said:


> Just to make sure...
> 
> From 2005.5 and later
> When you do the adaptation, nothing moves until you change channel 5 to a 1 and save it.
> ...


Yes Sir. I am totally aware of that. But when I read the channels after sucessfully saving 1 in #5 the original values is still present and the car sitts in the original ride hight.


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

I have found that if you try to put in different numbers than "actual measurements" there is a chance it will not accept them. 

I have found that the best way to do the adjustment is to:

1 - keep a piece of paper handy and write down the measurements you are entering. it can get confusing with the similar numbers during a few attempts. 
2- DO true numbers first before trying to "cheat" the system and put different numbers in to lower the car. this will keep you from having to start over and get frustrated.
3- lower by just a few mm at a time. there is a limit as to how far away from actual you can change. 

on another related point, 
it seems to me he very best way to do this would be to be 100% accurate with the measurement inputs (to get car perfectly level) and use the -5, -10, -15 mm adjustments. 
however I have NEVER been able to save the coding for this height adjustments. 
If anyone has managed to lower the car by simple coding. it would be very nice to see all the pertinent information.
workshop code, actual mm setting for each corner, coding... etc...


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

cbh123 said:


> I have found that if you try to put in different numbers than "actual measurements" there is a chance it will not accept them.
> 
> I have found that the best way to do the adjustment is to:
> 
> ...


Im not following you. The car has no idea if the ride hight in mm. That is just a value set by the manufakturer. I cheat the system as much if i enter 1 or 20mm, if i enter it manually och push the up button i guess.

I do understand that the controller will not accept values outside its specs. But this car im working on accepts 1mm or 20mm settings but it is not stored when i read the channels after set 1 in # 5.


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

AndySwede said:


> Im not following you.


Me neither.


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

invisiblewave said:


> Me neither.


The system is sensitive to numbers that "make sense" there must be hidden logic in the controller that rejects certain numbers
You can't (I certainly can't) put the left side that disagree with the right side. 
New sensors must come with an acceptable range of outputs. If you enter a setting that might indicate a bad sensor, it too is rejected. 

The problem is, that once one number I input is rejected, the whole thing is faulted, and no settings are saved. You have to start over. 
After you re-start the process several times,,and start to re-measure the same thing several times, you will be glad you wrote them down, it saves a lot of time. 

I want to get my car as low as it will go without rejecting the inputted value. If I do 10mm jumps , one wheel fails first, and I have to start over, it is much easier to go a few mm at a time, until it rejects that value, then start over and put the value before it faults.


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

cbh123 said:


> The system is sensitive to numbers that "make sense" there must be hidden logic in the controller that rejects certain numbers
> You can't (I certainly can't) put the left side that disagree with the right side.
> New sensors must come with an acceptable range of outputs. If you enter a setting that might indicate a bad sensor, it too is rejected.
> 
> ...


Ok, I hear you. I will try and try again, grab a beer and try again. I can handle that the controller locks me out, that can happen in other controllers is my experience. 
But when I run throug all five channels and the controller accepts the new values but does not change them - I don´t get it. I´ve tried steps in 1mm, 2mm, 5mm, 20mm. Same result. 

Since I´m doing this to lower the car I don´t think I have to measure that much. I´ll do it before I start and do it after I put in the new values just to confirm the new setting. If it turns out the hight is much different on left or right side maybe I do a adjustment.


//Andy


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

AndySwede said:


> Ok, I hear you. I will try and try again, grab a beer and try again. I can handle that the controller locks me out, that can happen in other controllers is my experience.
> But when I run throug all five channels and the controller accepts the new values but does not change them - I don´t get it. I´ve tried steps in 1mm, 2mm, 5mm, 20mm. Same result.
> 
> Since I´m doing this to lower the car I don´t think I have to measure that much. I´ll do it before I start and do it after I put in the new values just to confirm the new setting. If it turns out the hight is much different on left or right side maybe I do a adjustment.
> ...


I think there is something you are missing. 
the controller always shows the value at 407 and 401 - you just put in a different number so it can change the height back to this number. 

when you go through the adaptation, you correct it by putting in the ACTUAL value that you measure. 
as soon as you go to channel 5 it will re-adjust the level to try and get the car to what it thinks is correctly 407, 401. 
after you do it a few times (using honest numbers) it should measure pretty darned close to the right numbers.

this will get the car flat and level and even etc... at the factory ride height. ONLY then can you start playing with the numbers

I actually just went through this this afternoon, and as usual it got all mixed up before it got better. 
Once I got it to measure within a mm of 407 and 401, only then did I manage to add 20 mm from each corner measurement. as soon as I put a "1" in channel 5, the car dropped 20 mm.


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

cbh123 said:


> I think there is something you are missing.
> the controller always shows the value at 407 and 401 - you just put in a different number so it can change the height back to this number.
> 
> when you go through the adaptation, you correct it by putting in the ACTUAL value that you measure.
> ...


Wait a minute. You mean that even if I read 407, enter 427 and successfully stored to the controller it should lower 20mm. But the new actual value will still be shown as 407? In my 2014 Touareg the new value is shown in the controller. It is of course a different controller but still confusing!


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

AndySwede said:


> Wait a minute. You mean that even if I read 407, enter 427 and successfully stored to the controller it should lower 20mm. But the new actual value will still be shown as 407? In my 2014 Touareg the new value is shown in the controller. It is of course a different controller but still confusing!


The entire point of adapting (calibrating) is to correct the readings. 
So yes.

During adaptation, the car positions itself at what it thinks is 407, then you measure, and tell it where it actually is. 
During the procedure, as you go through the 4 corners, it should show the newly input values, but as soon as you enter 1 in Channel 5 it will re-level itself to what it now has been told is 407. 

The coding is what sets the desired height, however for some controllers, changing the coding has proven difficult. This leads us to cheat in the measuring. 

But if you don't get the car perfect before cheating, it's going to get all confused


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

Well, in the meantime the guy installed adjustable control arms and lowered the car so much there was no way to adapt the suspension. I tried but got error after the first stage of leveling in #1. Tried 3 times then the controller locked me out. Told him to adjust to the standard hight so I could give it another try or visit a proper VW dealer shop to get it right.


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## AndySwede (Apr 22, 2013)

Phew.... this was a tricky one. That car really had some personality! The guy changed to stock control arms so I went all in for the adaption. 

cbh123 - you were spot on. The controller did not accept any unresonable value. Tried it and the controller kicked me out. Got it calibrated without errors by exact masurements so started to try lower the car. At first by the 55-44 mod by coding. Request out of range and fault code due to not calibrated. Damn! Calibrated again. Contoller locked me out so gave it a few more attempts and got it leveled again without error.

The guy is about to sell the car so I advised him to lower the car with his adjustable control arms. I did´nt have the time to give it more attempts to lower it and I dont felt like spending that time on the case.

Thanx for all input.


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## hweeres (Dec 18, 2014)

*Driving a Phaeton wedge - what now*

Hi Guys,

I had a front end suspension failure where one side was leaking and the other exploded on me.

I replaced both front end struts with aftermarket replacements and it raised again, all warning lights are out - so that was a success I guess.

The car responds to drive height adjustments and hold the air over time (which it did not before)

Now I noticed though, that the front end is still significantly lower than the back end (2+ inches) so I am driving a phaeton wedge.
Its so bad, that the headlights seem useless as they seem to point down and illuminate only the next 30 yards.

Any tips what I can do to get the front end to raise up to standard height?

Thanks !!!


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Re-adapt the suspension as detailed in this thread!


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

> Any tips what I can do to get the front end to raise up to standard height?


You have covered a lot of ground and seem to have come up with a good result!

Invisiblewave's comment is at the heart of it. Adapting the height using the procedure in the Workshop Manual, which is explained in this thread, will also test the operation of all the items which control the height. These are:

Controller
Valve block, which gauges the air pressure to each wheel under the command of the Controller. It is supplied from the reservoir tank, which is fed from the air pump/drier.
Wheel height sensors, which measure the physical height of the suspension at each corner and send the results to the Controller.
The operation of the system is explained in VW publication SSP 275, which can currently be downloaded from here.

It is also worth taking a diagnostics scan, since the system is programmed to tell you what it thinks is wrong. An OBD-II scan won't give enough information, it has to be a scan using VW dealer equipment or that using a VCDS cable (formerly VAG-COM) from Ross-Tech.


Chris


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## cbh123 (Aug 25, 2013)

hweeres said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I had a front end suspension failure where one side was leaking and the other exploded on me.
> 
> ...


Who changed the struts? You or a shop? 
Both ride height and headlight levelling use the same sensors and they can be connected easily in an incorrect orientation. 
Look at the photos in the following TOC topic 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4590573


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## dishdr (Aug 9, 2018)

Does anyone know if the Air Suspension can be raised without the car running? Any manual operation available to raise the car?


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

dishdr said:


> Does anyone know if the Air Suspension can be raised without the car running? Any manual operation available to raise the car?


What sort of "manual operation" did you have in mind on a system that works on air pressure?? VCDS can run the compressor which will raise the reservoir pressure, but I don't remember any option to change the ride height, although there may be because it does move things when calibrating. You'd at least need the ignition on, but it might be possible without starting the engine.


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Hello all,

I have owned my 2006 W12 for the last 8 years and 85K miles (currently 114K total miles on the car). It has been a great car and incredibly trouble-free. It is my third Phaeton (I owned 2 2004 V8s in the 4 years prior to obtaining this one). About 5 or 6 months ago, the car developed a leak in the power steering line. I was able to drive home and park it in my garage. It sat there while I tried to figure out my strategy for replacing the corroded line. My daily driver is a 2015 Porsche Macan and I have a great local Porsche Master Technician who works independently for me. I had to wait months for him to get to my car (he works on Porsche 911 race cars). After sitting for months, my Phaeton would not start. I was able to get it going with the left-right-left method but the front suspension was to the floor. I tried charging both batteries. The starter battery was salvageable but I had to get a new left-side battery. I was hoping the new battery would bring the suspension back up but it did not. 

My question has to do with working with the 2006 C controller for level control. Has anyone found a security code that will allow for adaptation? I have done adaptation on my 2004 models with no problem (so I know the process). I use the Ross-Tech VCDS and have scanned for codes and also gone into Module 34 to get as much info as I could. Some of the info that may be helpful:

Stop Vehicle Too Low (Warning Message in Dash)
Faults in Controller 34:
01437-Controller Position Not Learned
005-No or Incorrect Basic Setting/Adaptation
01575-Level Control Switched Off
01399-Relay for Level-Control Compressor
009-Open or Short to Ground- Intermittant

Measuring Blocks in 34:
003-Damper Control Button Not Operable
Level Control Button Not Operable


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Continued:

Measuring Blocks in 34:
003- Compressor Relay (J403) Relay Off

001- Terminal 50 Off

Sorry this was cut off into two posts.

I was able to start the adaptation process once using code 31546 but it kicked me out and denied security access after I entered the 1st measurement. The front end did raise up and move around during the process which should tell us something.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I added to this old thread but may start a brief new one if it appears no one is reading this. I was active on the forum mostly between 2010 and 2014 (when I had the 2004 V8s). Those cars had multiple issues and this forum helped me immensely. I intend to keep this car going as long as I can (forever). 

Thanks...Jay


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

chillson said:


> Continued:
> 
> Measuring Blocks in 34:
> 003- Compressor Relay (J403) Relay Off
> ...


Jay,

Did you charge the new left battery before changing it? Did you follow the battery changing procedures?

Did you check all fuses?

If the answer to all is yes, then I would start by starting it and clearing the faults. Then run an autoscan and Clear ALL DTCs.

I will be following because my 2004 is in the dirt. I have new Genuine VW struts. Mine no longer responds to any input (or VCDS) but hopefully it will once I replace the leaking left front strut. If that doesn't get it up, I will replace the right front. 

If you go to the controller, you can enter basic settings group 23 to adjust the pressure but mine no longer responds. The compressor starts but I think I left it on the ground too long. It would still rise when I picked up the new struts and I should have just had them installed by the dealer but they wanted $2K. Then laziness and life set in.


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi,

From the scan, I would suggest that at the time the scan was taken the controller has given up temporarily because it had forgotten the height sensor limits it had previously stored in memory. It is waiting to re-adapt itself, ie detect the 4 wheel height sensor outputs at their upper and lower limits.

This is just the same process as when the steering angle sensor and power windows lose adapation after a 'power cut' (dead batteries). For those, the re-adaptation happens because you manipulate the rotations or positions to their limits manually, and after noting and saving the sensor output values, the respective controllers take over again.

Faults in Controller 34:
01437-Controller *Position Not Learned*
005-*No or Incorrect Basic Setting/Adaptation*
01575-Level Control Switched Off *[by the controller - it is unable to obey Knob level change commands]*

01399-*Relay for Level-Control Compressor*
009-Open or Short to Ground- *Intermittant [this may be because the relay has on at least one occasion not operated, or not been switched on, when expected by some other software process. I observe that the platform software is not always consistent in its error messages - or, less likely, it may be a hardware problem]*

My repair manuals are off-line at the moment and I can't remember the factory reset adaptation procedure. Is it posted in one of the threads below? Although I assume it should be somewhere in this current thread. 

Vag-Com Air Suspension Adjustment... Damn, couldn't...
Lowering my baby/VAG Tool

Chris


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

Chris,

Thanks for your reply. My primary problem is that I do not have security access to Controller 34. I have not seen any posts on the forum with the code to the "C version" controller. Phaeton models from 2004-2005.5 had A or B controllers. Codes 31564 and 08367 worked for those controllers to gain accces to adaptation and basic settings. Those codes are no good for the C controllers. Do you know anyone with a 2006 or newer model that may have had any success with this?

Thanks...Jay


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## Paximus (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Jay,

I finally got my workshop info fired up, but, as suspected, other than the extensive advice on this Forum, the data is actually embedded in the VAS 5051 dealer diagnostics system (which I don't have) and runs under a Guidance script inside that.

It's not very informative:



*Basic settings for self-levelling suspension*

– Check basic setting of self-levelling suspension

– Connect vehicle diagnosis, testing and information system -VAS 5051- and click through the program until “Select function/component” is displayed.

Then

– Press “Running gear”.

– Press “Level control system”.

– Press “01-Self-diagnosis capable systems”.

– Press “Adaptive suspension functions”.

– Press “Basic settings for adaptive suspension”.

The specifications for basic setting are now displayed on the vehicle diagnosis, testing and information system -VAS 5051-.

– Measure actual vehicle heights [_vertical distance of centre edge of wing/wheel arch to centre of wheel - CB_]

– If a deviation from specifications is determined, enter actual values in adaptive suspension control unit using vehicle diagnosis, testing and information system -VAS 5051-.

The self-levelling suspension control unit “evaluates” the figures and sets the vehicle to the level for basic settings



Is the advice in this forum post helpful in any way?
https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/29739/#post-251093

Chris


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

I seem to remember some sort of glitch with security access. Not necessarily with this controller but mentioned in a Phaeton thread. Maybe do a search for "Security Access".


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

My memory might be a little fuzzy on this but I think the ABS controller can lock out the level controller. I used to have an issue with my first Phaeton parts car when I let it sit too long without starting it up and it loosing battery charge completely. Did you try resetting all fault codes on all controllers (preferably multiple times on the ABS controller)?


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## 53PL-50AAA-VW611BAN (Feb 10, 2015)

Phaetonlvr said:


> My memory might be a little fuzzy on this but I think the ABS controller can lock out the level controller. I used to have an issue with my first Phaeton parts car when I let it sit too long without starting it up and it loosing battery charge completely. Did you try resetting all fault codes on all controllers (preferably multiple times on the ABS controller)?


Mayhaps that's my problem, Stephan. 

-Eric


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## Phaetonlvr (Feb 26, 2013)

I'm not sure, it's been a couple of years but it can't hurt to reset the ABS controller anyway.


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## chillson (Sep 6, 2010)

I will give it try and report back. Thanks...Jay


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## invisiblewave (Sep 22, 2008)

Phaetonlvr said:


> My memory might be a little fuzzy on this but I think the ABS controller can lock out the level controller. I used to have an issue with my first Phaeton parts car when I let it sit too long without starting it up and it loosing battery charge completely. Did you try resetting all fault codes on all controllers (preferably multiple times on the ABS controller)?


I think this is correct. Simply disconnecting the ABS connector under the hood can solve a multitude of problems!


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