# Ornithology's Quest for STEALTH (silent) Airlift V2 setup



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

The goal here is to have a silent, quick filling, and stealth (hidden) setup that does not take from the practicality of a sedan. I've been updating my build thread but here's the part regarding the air-ride build.

Build thread can be found here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ogy-s-quot-Form-over-Function-quot-2004.5-GLI

*Updates:*

* Feb 07, 2013* 
•	Purchased a complete Airlift V2 air-ride slam kit! Now to start the planning and wiring mock up

* Mar 08, 2013 * 
•	Purchased a third compressor!

*  Mar 18, 2013 * 
•	Big day today! Additional fittings, flow controls, power wires, relays, and TONS of sound deadening! A huge thank you to Bagriders, Poweraire, and Soundaway! Today I also went to Home Depot to have my MDF cut out for me. Pretty slow progress so far though. I have a massive accounting exam I am preparing for…at least all the planning is tentatively complete. Once pictures are up it will be easier to explain.

* April 14, 2013 * 
•	So I began cutting up my sound deadening and building my compressor “stealth” box. MDF does not work well with screws, or nails…so I used glue. Will have pics soon but unfortunately computer at home isn’t working properly.

Box is looking fantastic though. Will head back to the parents place to tomorrow to complete the management build and then hook it up for a leak test!

Now what I need to do next is to try to get the base board as flush against the trunk floor as possible. Stupid floor is slightly angled and has recesses made for the spare tire. Makes it difficult to maximize the potential height that available…still working on it.

Also trying to source locally some auto carpet- anyone know where I can get some OEM looking stuff in Vancouver, B.C.?

* April 18, 2013 * 
•	Everything is positioned. Going to be plumbing and wiring up the system today. I've decided to raise the power distribution block and the relays off the base in case water drips so I will be building the tiny shelf for that today. Other than that, a final sand and a coat of paint will finish my base. Will lay the sound deadening on the trunk and parcel shelf once I successfully test the system for leaks. Wish me luck!

* April 23, 2013 * 

So the air management is in! I've been super sick with the fever, don't think I've been sleeping too well since I've been cramming/studying for my accounting exams.

Anyhow, some plus and some negatives. Was hoping to be finished this weekend but was too sick to work on anything else.

(+) Management system completely wired up.
(+) The battery cover fits back on after power cable installed!
(+) Tentatively no leaks, however, I did find that the tank does slowly go down by about a psi or so every 2-3 hours. Very strange. Will do a soap/water test to confirm.

(-) Cannot find any nutserts, will need to order...

*couple notes: I used airlift's diagram for wiring the relays and it worked perfectly, basically it is the same as what mechengg drew but the 85 and 86 are reversed.
*Fuse 29 worked perfect as an ignition source

*April 29, 2013*

So to update. 

Rears are in. Did not use nutserts.

I hate these MK4 front struts. I've worked on them countless of times. For some reason this time it just will not come out. I'm getting too old for this stuff. I have a good friend who works for VW and he'll be coming over shortly to help me out.

Looks like I may have a leak in my driver's rear too. 

I ended up having to hardline everything coming out of the manifold. The region was too tight for air hoses.

*May 6, 2013*

Huge updates!

Air-suspension is COMPLETE and FUNCTIONAL. 

There are still a lot of details I need to address but the set up has been solid and comfortable.
The triple compressors fill up from 120-175 in about 15s. It is about 28 degrees ambient temperature but the compressors didn't even warm up at all. FLAWLESS!

Can't complain, after I fix the airlift top strut mount and notch the frame, I will work on the car sparingly as I begin hardcore studies to add letters behind my name, but I am overall pretty happy.

More pics to come but here's an iPhone photo.

To Do:
-DONE- Run copper hardlines out of manifold (over exhaust, not sure if good idea) then union to air hose outside car
- Install Front and rear bags
- Complete management false floor
- Route controller into ash tray
- Wire up compressor shut-off switches under controller (x3)
- Final leak test


*Pre-build thoughts…*

So I’ve been wanting to go air-ride quite some time now. Ever since I first got into the VAG scene I found it to be the most practical way to have that “low” car look but also have the full functionality of my vehicle. Living in beautiful British Columbia, my wife and I enjoy the outdoors a lot, meaning we camp, snowboard, bike, hike, etc. I also play ice hockey so I need the functionality of a big trunk so I can carry my equipment. 

What deterred me from the air-ride setups were quite simple:
•	Price- they were usually very expensive and I was still in University at the time
•	Too fancy- I don’t like how the bling and ice is so flashy!
•	No space left in trunk- again, all the fancy bling takes up precious trunk space!
•	LOUD- the compressors are mad annoying!

After some research I find it is feasible and there are some awesome set-ups out there that have what I want. My air build must have:
•	Adjustability- I used to run coils and it was a pain trying to get over SPEED BUMPS. When I went hiking with the wife the terrain usually is very bumpy and my lowered car would take a beating. I want a fast lift and a modulated (slower) exhaust. 
•	Stealth- I do not want it to be seen at all and I want to retain my trunk in it’s full capacity
•	Stealth2- In addition, I want it to be SILENT. I’ve done quite a bit of research on this and hopefully I’ve found a way to accomplish it and contribute to the forums. This means I do not want the compressor or exhaust to be heard.
•	Stealth3- and again, to be stealth the compressors shouldn’t be on forever (30s+), so I need it to fill my air tank quickly after the initial lift pre-set.

I’ve posted on the air suspension forums already and have had great input. I found airsociety has been very helpful as well.

>>>To begin here are my plans:
•	Airlift Slam XL
•	Airlift rears
•	Airlift V2 digital management
•	3 gallon tank
•	(3) Three Viair 444c air compressors
•	4ga power wire
•	Tons of ½” MDF
•	Keep it below $2000

What I’ve calculated to get the most bang for the buck for the compressors. I know many will say go Air Zenith OB2’s, but they are just too steep for me! Not only are the compressors pricey, but I will need a new alternator as well. I opted for the Viair 444c’s instead. Here are my initial calculations: 

With three compressors and a 2.5 gallon tank at 200 psi, my refresh time will be: 
95sec (5gal spec) x 2.5/5= 47.5s
With an additional compressor: 47.5s x 2/3= *31.6s *


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

* April 18, 2013 * 
•	Everything is positioned. Going to be plumbing and wiring up the system today. I've decided to raise the power distribution block and the relays off the base in case water drips so I will be building the tiny shelf for that today. Other than that, a final sand and a coat of paint will finish my base. Will lay the sound deadening on the trunk and parcel shelf once I successfully test the system for leaks. Wish me luck!


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

BTW, update to wiring schematic props to MechEngg:



MechEngg said:


> Sorry Conor but i completely disagree with having a stinger relay in the position that you have it in. In this case it is 100% better to have the relay AFTER the V2 power connection.
> 
> His triple 444's plus solenoids will definitely draw over 80A (especially if the car is off) so he will blow through relays everytime his compressors go on.
> 
> ...


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Question for everyone:
1) Which fuse/ignition is recommended to tap? I'm getting mixed results through the search.

2) What is the recommended routing of the air hose and also the remote/ignition lines? I'll probably want to run the air hose outside the body while the electronics will stay inside. I would prefer not to lift the carpet and seats....but....i guess for a clean install that may be the only way. Unless there are suggestions out there?

Thanks.


----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Wiring through the side rails, lift up the trim by the doors and tuck it under the little ledge that is there. No carpet pulling.

Take a look through my photobucket, should be pictures of how i ran lines. All outside.

Here are a few pics:


































































Front


----------



## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

MechEngg for prime minister. :wave:


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Sweet thanks Mech for the advice. I'll do that! Great idea. No need to pull carpet and seats, will save me tons of time. 

As for the ignition source, looks like fuse 29 is the one for the V2. 

Just emailed Jeremy at airlift, hope to get a response. In terms of wiring I found this on stance works of someone having issues with calibration due to wiring. 

Reference:
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=826370&postcount=23

Hoping to get some clarification soon. I still want to run the 4 relays as mech suggested (already installed, yet to upload pics).


----------



## babydubz (Dec 13, 2007)

yesssss!! I was waiting for the build thread to come up :thumbup:


----------



## John Reid (Jun 30, 2010)

Remember that mass loading material like Dynamat will not block sound transmission, only vibration. So when you do yor trunk and parcel shelf, use a composite vynil/open cell foam product...


----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

John Reid said:


> Remember that mass loading material like Dynamat will not block sound transmission, only vibration. So when you do yor trunk and parcel shelf, use a composite vynil/open cell foam product...


100% agreed.

For reducing vibrations transferred in sheet metal use this: http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html

For blocking airborne sound waves use this: http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html

Based out of lethbridge too so no cross border shipping for the OP :thumbup:


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Updates! 

So the air management is in! I've been super sick with the fever, don't think I've been sleeping too well since I've been cramming/studying for my accounting exams. 

Anyhow, some plus and some negatives. Was hoping to be finished this weekend but was too sick to work on anything else. 

(+) Management system completely wired up. 
(+) The battery cover fits back on after power cable installed! 
(+) Tentatively no leaks, however, I did find that the tank does slowly go down by about a psi or so every 2-3 hours. Very strange. Will do a soap/water test to confirm. 

(-) Cannot find any nutserts, will need to order... 

*couple notes: I used airlift's diagram for wiring the relays and it worked perfectly, basically it is the same as what mechengg drew but the 85 and 86 are reversed. 
*Fuse 29 worked perfect as an ignition source 


To Do: 
- Run copper hardlines out of manifold (over exhaust, not sure if good idea) then union to air hose outside car 
- Install Front and rear bags 
- Complete management false floor 
- Route controller into ash tray 
- Wire up compressor shut-off switches under controller (x3) 
- Final leak test


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

ornithology said:


> Updates!
> 
> So the air management is in! I've been super sick with the fever, don't think I've been sleeping too well since I've been cramming/studying for my accounting exams.
> 
> ...


 Sounds like it is going well for you. You should not need to run hardlines over the exhaust. If you are using the line that came with the V2, it is high-temp DOT line and will be just fine if you run it over the heat shield, that is what many people do.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

FlybyGLI said:


> Sounds like it is going well for you. You should not need to run hardlines over the exhaust. If you are using the line that came with the V2, it is high-temp DOT line and will be just fine if you run it over the heat shield, that is what many people do.


 Thanks for your input. I purchased new lines separate from kit from bagriders. They do say airlift on the lines though so I assume they are the ones you speak of?


----------



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

ornithology said:


> Thanks for your input. I purchased new lines separate from kit from bagriders. They do say airlift on the lines though so I assume they are the ones you speak of?


 Yep, same stuff. Most DOT line is the same anyway, rated to an ambient temp well over 100 degrees and burst pressure above 400 PSI.


----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

FlybyGLI said:


> Yep, same stuff. Most DOT line is the same anyway, rated to an ambient temp well over 100 degrees and burst pressure above 400 PSI.


 The DOT FMVSS 106 line is rated to 95C, working pressure of at least 250psi (higher depending on size). 

I would still be extremely cautious of running any plastic/nylon lines since the exhaust can get way hotter than 95C. Hell viair compressor heads & discharge usually gets around that hot and can melt these nylon lines.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

MechEngg said:


> The DOT FMVSS 106 line is rated to 95C, working pressure of at least 250psi (higher depending on size).
> 
> I would still be extremely cautious of running any plastic/nylon lines since the exhaust can get way hotter than 95C. Hell viair compressor heads & discharge usually gets around that hot and can melt these nylon lines.


 I remember you mentioning that before thus the reason for switching to copper lines. 

Not too much work though, for the front driver side I'll just run a section of copper that is near the exhaust and the rest I'll just do air hose. Thanks for your input guys!


----------



## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

Just going to throw it out there. Protect or seal the copper in some way. Raw copper + the elements = ****.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Iku said:


> Just going to throw it out there. Protect or seal the copper in some way. Raw copper + the elements = ****.


 
Elaborate further? Will the copper oxidize and leave crud inside my system?


----------



## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

It really depends on what kind of temperatures and such you see. If your roads EVER get salted by your city, I would recommend wrapping the exposed copper tubing in some simple rubber hose you can get at your local parts store. 

Salt on bare copper just eats right through eventually.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

So to update. 

Rears are in. I did NOT use the nutserts. Reason is becuase, well, simply put, the hole in the perch is too large. 

I hate these MK4 front struts. I've worked on them countless of times. For some reason this time it just will not come out. I'm getting too old for this stuff. I have a good friend who works for VW and he'll be coming over shortly to help me out. 

Looks like I may have a leak in my driver's rear too. 

I ended up having to hardline everything coming out of the manifold. The region was too tight for air hoses. 

Pics to come.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)




----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Love that fused distribution block with the voltage readout! That will be extremely handy in helping diagnose any problems you may have :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

ornithology said:


> *couple notes: I used airlift's diagram for wiring the relays and it worked perfectly, basically it is the same as what mechengg drew but the 85 and 86 are reversed.
> **Fuse 29 worked perfect as an ignition source*


 Bump for 2 reasons: 

note 1 - 85 and 86 can be reversed on relays, it just provides amperage running through a coil to create a magnetic field and direction doesn't matter  

note 2: Bump this up for people searching for a good V2 ignition source :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

MechEngg said:


> Bump for 2 reasons:
> 
> note 1 - 85 and 86 can be reversed on relays, it just provides amperage running through a coil to create a magnetic field and direction doesn't matter
> 
> note 2: Bump this up for people searching for a good V2 ignition source :thumbup::thumbup:


 Thanks man, 

I'll have better quality pics (SLR) once everything is installed. The hardlines were a pain to do but well worth it as they can bend at any angle. Once everything is good I may end up polishing them. 

Wish me luck tonight as I'll be installing the fronts with my good friend who's a VW Mechanic.


----------



## BIG EYE (Aug 20, 2001)

Sorry if you mentioned this and I missed it. 

Will there be any issue with the compressors getting to hot, or not being able to "breathe" being inside that box?


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

BIG EYE said:


> Sorry if you mentioned this and I missed it.
> 
> Will there be any issue with the compressors getting to hot, or not being able to "breathe" being inside that box?


 Originally I was going to route the air filter outside the box with a tube going into the compressor. I found that it only takes under 30secs and that there is little to no heat during that time frame. 

A little update: FML. 

Everything is installed and in. HOWEVER- one of the airlift XL top hat bolts sheared off. The hole I drilled was too tight. FML. New one coming in from bagriders right now. I need overnight parts!


----------



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

ornithology said:


> Originally I was going to route the air filter outside the box with a tube going into the compressor. I found that it only takes under 30secs and that there is little to no heat during that time frame.
> 
> A little update: FML.
> 
> Everything is installed and in. HOWEVER- one of the airlift XL top hat bolts sheared off. The hole I drilled was too tight. FML. New one coming in from bagriders right now. I need overnight parts!


 While this is true about the short fill time the viairs heat up extremely quickly, in 10 seconds they can almost burn your hands. Also if the box is totally enclosed where are you going to get your air from?? The box looks super small so it will heat up extremely quickly and you won't be able to get any air. I would look at routing the filters outside the box and putting in cooling fans, but that is entirely up to you. Run it like it is currently and see what it is like for you and see if you feel comfortable with it. Also i would be quite scared of those nylon lines in the box on the discharge of a viair compressor, i would keep spare line for if those melt and fail. 

Sucks to hear about the top bolts, they take almost zero torque to tighten them and they shear off quite easily.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

MechEngg said:


> While this is true about the short fill time the viairs heat up extremely quickly, in 10 seconds they can almost burn your hands. Also if the box is totally enclosed where are you going to get your air from?? The box looks super small so it will heat up extremely quickly and you won't be able to get any air. I would look at routing the filters outside the box and putting in cooling fans, but that is entirely up to you. Run it like it is currently and see what it is like for you and see if you feel comfortable with it. Also i would be quite scared of those nylon lines in the box on the discharge of a viair compressor, i would keep spare line for if those melt and fail.
> 
> Sucks to hear about the top bolts, they take almost zero torque to tighten them and they shear off quite easily.


 I agree, but so far it's been ok. 10 seconds is a little quick, I had them run for 30 seconds and no problems. 

I agree with you about the box and the air filter. I'll be monitoring it. 

As for the nylon lines, I am actually running hard copper lines now. 

Yea...airlift bolts SUCK.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

*May 6, 2013* 

Huge updates! 

Air-suspension is COMPLETE and FUNCTIONAL. 

There are still a lot of details I need to address but the set up has been solid and comfortable. 
The triple compressors fill up from 120-175 in about 15s. It is about 28 degrees ambient temperature but the compressors didn't even warm up at all. FLAWLESS! 

Can't complain, after I fix the airlift top strut mount and notch the frame, I will work on the car sparingly as I begin hardcore studies to add letters behind my name, but I am overall pretty happy. 

More pics to come but here's an iPhone photo.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)




----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)




----------



## BlackRadon (Oct 1, 2006)

looks great man!:thumbup:


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

BlackRadon said:


> looks great man!:thumbup:


Thanks! :thumbup:


----------



## Iku (Mar 11, 2009)

So what's the verdict on noise levels?


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Iku said:


> So what's the verdict on noise levels?


I haven't had a chance to fit the box yet. With the change in plans in hardlining out of the manifold the box won't fit properly in the new spot without some mods. Will fit it today actually and then I'll make my decision. However I still have lots of foam and MLV to fit into the car that I have not yet done. 

Yesterday, completed the frame with more supports and also working on the plumbing a little more. Also installed a rebuild kit for the fronts. However, been realizing a couple issues. 

1) My rear bags seem to be "shifting" pressures. The driver side would lose pressure overnight while the passenger increases pressure. The driver side will end up goin to zero. Not sure what's up. 

2) I'm worried I have a failed SMC check valve. My compressors are connected to the CV with a nipple. There is a leak b/w the nipple and compressor. I'm thinking the CV is supposed to prevent air from coming back and then leaking between the nipple and comp?


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Figured out what happened to the leak at the compressor. The Viair head that connects to the nipple cracked. Will call Bagriders for a new one once Monday comes.

Still need to figure out why the rear bags are not holding pressure...hate having to ship things here and there and then driving to pick up rather than just having it straight at my doorstep. Perks of living in the states I guess


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Just got off the phone with Taylor with Bagriders. Let me just say their customer service is 100% and top notch. Took care of my issues and I'm getting a new head sent to me now. 

The SMC check-valve had no problems and it was actually a hairline crack on the compressor head.

Should be ready to run again soon!

Will be calling airlift regarding the manifold issue.


*A+ TO BAGRIDERS! Will buy all my air-ride parts from them*.eace::wave::thumbup:


----------



## darcness (Aug 8, 2008)

Mine did this too. In fact I ended up cutting off a small part of the threads, and then drill/re-threading it to fix it.

The check valve should still stop a leak from the compressor side though. As long as the check valve is installed correctly and is upstream from said compressor at least.


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

darcness said:


> Mine did this too. In fact I ended up cutting off a small part of the threads, and then drill/re-threading it to fix it.
> 
> The check valve should still stop a leak from the compressor side though. As long as the check valve is installed correctly and is upstream from said compressor at least.


So you're saying your nipple went too far in?


----------



## darcness (Aug 8, 2008)

Well, I guess you could say so, lol. 

I actually overtightened the fitting actually and ended up cracking it. Note to self, black pipe vs. aluminum cast, black pipe wins every time. Oops...


----------



## Sovietaced (Feb 5, 2010)

Nice build thread man, crazy setup you have. Will be bringing my business to bagriders soon


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

Wow, what a crazy month. 

-Finished another accounting module- that much closer to my designation...but not much time to work on the car 

-Had my rear mid-flex brake line pop on me. Pedal went to the floor and I lost all brakes. 

-Fixed my Rear Driver side bag leak. It was the connection between my manifold and bag, not the bag itself. Works perfect now. 

*To do:* 

-Notching frame this Friday! 

-Roll fenders 

-Need to install sound deadening in trunk, parcel shelf 

-Complete detail 

-May switch up the wheels to something else after I do a photoshoot 

-make a controller and killswitch holder out of my ashtray. 

-remove tint 

*Future plans:* 

- polish up engine bay 

-create new retrofits


----------



## macleanshaun (Sep 19, 2008)

Aaron are you coming to any of the american vw events in the next month? Leavenworth, waterwerks, slammed society? I want to see it!


----------



## ornithology (May 6, 2009)

macleanshaun said:


> Aaron are you coming to any of the american vw events in the next month? Leavenworth, waterwerks, slammed society? I want to see it!


 Yeah I'm gonna try to make it out for Waterwerks and slammed society. Can't make Leavenworth. But I'm trying to switch the wheels up so I can go a little lower! 

Are you in the states now though? Wish we had more shows than Great Canadian up here though.


----------

