# RS3 Oil and Filter change



## epiloggts (Jan 4, 2000)

OK, so the owners manual only says, to take the car to the dealer. I'd like to change the oil and filter early after engine break in. 

I called the dealer for the filter part number:
Oil Filter 
OEM - 06D115562 $16.75 which is a cartridge style filter

I looked in the engine compartment expecting to see a housing but even after removing the engine cover, I can't seem to locate one... I've done the requisite googling but still no luck. 

Who's done an oil change and can tell me where to find the housing?

And yes, as a fairly accomplished garage mechanic I'm ashamed to ask.


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## brothers savage (Aug 30, 2017)

*RS3 oil change*

I watched a video on youtube (see below) where the guy said they use an extractor to do oil changes and the oil pan and plug on the new RS3 are plastic. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nc9UCeK46B4


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## jwil (Jul 12, 2001)

I suspect it's the black cylinder on the bottom front area of the engine in this diagram:










Remove the belly pan.


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## epiloggts (Jan 4, 2000)

jwil said:


> I suspect it's the black cylinder on the bottom front area of the engine in this diagram:
> 
> Remove the belly pan.


Yep, it sure does... looks like a spin on filter. Thanks for the image, I was hoping someone could tell me so I wouldn't have to remove the belly pan if I didn't have too. 

Just my luck, I finally decide to buy an oil extractor as I assumed I could do an oil change all from the top. Now it looks like I'll need to get under the car regardless... grumble, grumble. And I now also need to return a 3 pack of oil filters thanks to the parts guy at the dealer, unless that happens to be a cartridge housing under there. 

Good find jwil


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## michael818 (Apr 12, 2017)

What grade oil are you using? here seems to be some debate as to appropriate weight.






epiloggts said:


> Yep, it sure does... looks like a spin on filter. Thanks for the image, I was hoping someone could tell me so I wouldn't have to remove the belly pan if I didn't have too.
> 
> Just my luck, I finally decide to buy an oil extractor as I assumed I could do an oil change all from the top. Now it looks like I'll need to get under the car regardless... grumble, grumble. And I now also need to return a 3 pack of oil filters thanks to the parts guy at the dealer, unless that happens to be a cartridge housing under there.
> 
> Good find jwil


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## BaltimoreCaesar (Apr 11, 2017)

brothers savage said:


> I watched a video on youtube (see below) where the guy said they use an extractor to do oil changes and the oil pan and plug on the new RS3 are plastic.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nc9UCeK46B4


I thought I read that while the S3 has a composite oil pan and plug, the RS3 has a magnesium pan


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## brothers savage (Aug 30, 2017)

BaltimoreCaesar said:


> I thought I read that while the S3 has a composite oil pan and plug, the RS3 has a magnesium pan


You know what, after I posted I believe that guy was talking specifically about his S3 so you may be right. Fortunately, I was able to haggle in Audi Care on my order so I dont play on touching anything on it myself until that runs out.


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## epiloggts (Jan 4, 2000)

I plan on changing my oil much more frequently than recommended by Audi. IMHO it's cheap insurance especially around the time when the engine is new. 

You can find opinions on engine break-in, oil weights, oil types, and oil filters all over the internets but you almost never hear someone say too frequent oil changes are detrimental. 

Audi recommends the following:
Oil 
Audi Recommended  
Audi Oil Quality Standard VW 502 00

I'm generally a Mobil 1 Euro formula 0-40 but I'm going to try Castrol EDGE 0W-40 this time since it's the brand Audi seems to prefer (honestly I think the difference between any 502 00 oil will be negligible if regular changes are performed). 

I called around and it the VW filter 06D115562 does appear to be what the RS 3 uses so it must be a cartridge housing somewhere on the car (appears to be on the bottom in that image above). 

I believe the articles about the car say the oil pan is Magnesium (for weight savings).

My research says the other oil service parts are:
Drain Plug
VW # N91167901 

Drain Plug Crush Washer
VW # N0138495


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## TBomb (Sep 23, 2009)

epiloggts said:


> Yep, it sure does... looks like a spin on filter. Thanks for the image, I was hoping someone could tell me so I wouldn't have to remove the belly pan if I didn't have too.
> 
> Just my luck, I finally decide to buy an oil extractor as I assumed I could do an oil change all from the top. Now it looks like I'll need to get under the car regardless... grumble, grumble. And I now also need to return a 3 pack of oil filters thanks to the parts guy at the dealer, unless that happens to be a cartridge housing under there.
> 
> Good find jwil


If it's anything like what Audi used on the 2.0T engine, then there is a plastic housing that holds the cartridge filter. You drain the oil from the pan, drain the oil from the filter housing, then unscrew the housing and remove the filter. You'll replace a rubber gasket in the housing and put the new filter in, then re-install it. It's not as straightforward as a traditional spin-on oil filter, but it's not terrible. Don't go returning those filters just yet...


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## epiloggts (Jan 4, 2000)

I did perform an oil change this past weekend.

Unfortunately the oil filter housing on the 2018 RS3 is located on the underside of the engine so to change the oil filter the car needs to be lifted and belly pan removed.

Here’s what you need to do a complete oil change. 
Consumables
Oil Filter: VW 06D115562 ($10-16)
Crush Washer: VW N0138495 ($2)
Drain Plug: VW N91167901 ($2)
8 quarts Oil that meets Audi Oil Quality Standard VW 502 00 ($50) or VW 504.00 ($90)

Tools
Jack / Ramps / Stands
8 Quart drain pain / Oil extractor
Torx bits/wrenches - T25 and T45
VW Oil Filter wrench
Optional – VW oil filter drain tool

Warm up the engine slightly so that the engine oil flows freely.

LIFT CAR
Place the car securely on ramps or jack stands. There are arrows on the side skirts that show where on the inner body it’s safe to jack. I like to use a block of wood between my jack and the body mount.

REMOVE BELLY PAN
Once securely the air you can remove the belly pan. It is secured by 7 Torx 25 screws and 3 Torx 45 bolts. The smaller T25 screws are located 3 across the side of the pan on either side and 1 securing the pan at the front. Once you remove the 7 T25 screws you can remove the 3 T45 bolts that secure the back of the belly pan. Once those have been removed the pan should fall away from the bottom of the car with just two tabs at the front holding it on. Press the tabs to disengage and pull the pan free. 

DRAIN OIL
Once the belly pan is free you can drain the oil. First loosen the fill cap on the top of the engine to allow air to enter the engine. Remove the oil drain plug and let the oil drain(careful it’s warm and can splash). I used an oil extractor (Mityvac 7300 PneumatiVac Air-Operated Fluid Evacuator) from the dipstick tube. It was able to remove 7 quarts and when I pulled the oil pan drain plug it was bone dry. Once oil pan is empty wipe off any excess and replace with a new plug and washer, be careful tightening as the oil pan is aluminum. 

CHANGE FILTER
The oil filter is around the front of the engine, between the block and radiator. I would recommend purchasing a VW oil filter drain tool, as it allows you to drain the oil from the canister without a mess. There’s a small cap on the bottom of the housing that unscrews and exposes a spring loaded drain nipple. I didn’t have the tool and just spun the housing off and oil dripped everywhere around the block and pan. Also after the fact I watched a YouTube video that showed someone pressing on the drain valve with a screw driver and draining the filter. It was probably a little cleaner than just spinning off the filter. Removing the oil filter drained another quart of oil from the system. Once the filter housing is off remove the old filter, replace and lubricate the rubber gasket/o-ring, and put in a new filter (make sure to press the filter all the way into the housing). Once the filter has been replaced tighten the housing back onto the block.

REFILL SYSTEM
Refill the engine with 7.5-8 quarts of VW specified oil. 

CHECK FOR LEAKS
Once engine has been filled look for leaks. Then start engine let run for a min or so and check for leaks again. If it’s all still dry button it all up.

Overall at 600 miles the bulk of the oil looked clean without any metallic shimmer. Then when I removed and drained the oil filter canister I saw quite a bit of silver and copper metallic particulate. Looks like the oil filter has been filtering as designed, but I’m happy to have removed all of that particulate from the engine.


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## m3bs (Dec 8, 2002)

I just did this today on a friend’s RS3. Pretty straightforward, but why in the world did they Loctite the T45 screws at the rear of the plastic belly pan? I was really concerned about stripping the threads out of the aluminum subframe. 

One tip: the filter housing drains pretty slowly using the VW tool. Wait for it. I got impatient, and things got messy.


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## Alik4041 (May 22, 2009)

Can someone please post a link to the oil filter wrench? I can't seem to find the right one.


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## Hugonzalez01 (Jul 20, 2017)

U can also use universal strap filter removal tool. Works great. They cost like $7 at any auto parts store. Been using on vw for years never hd a problem.


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