# Doing things right this time. Pics to come.



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

4-17/13 Update. 
Turbo will be back tomorrow hoping to have everything installed and running by next weekend. 
Have the wiring ran to the hatch for battery relocate, need to find a mounting spot and wire in the fuses. I also need to decide what battery I am going to run(any suggestions? )

New bumper will be ordered and fresh paint in the next two months. 

1-18-13 Update. 

Replaced coil pack harness and added 2.0T coils. 
I am having issues with misfires. (BKR7E's ) 
I started at .035 down to .026 now. Changed plugs twice. 
The gap did not help at all. 
Misfires are only at part throttle. 

Under boost everything is fine. 

Any suggestions? 

12-5-12 (Much needed update)
For anyone still following

I have been daily driving the car since the end of July. 
I am still working on the tune, this seems to be a never ending process. 
At this point I am pretty happy with it; still have a few issues that I feel are beyond my knowledge right now. The car is violent. 26psi(21psi WG spring + 5 with MBC)
Full spool comes on right around 4k and pulls till the rev limiter I set at 7700 in Maestro. 
Traction is a major issue in 1st 2nd and 3rd. At 21 3rd was ok, at 26 3rd is wheelspin. 
I plan on working on this more in the spring, boost by gear and most likely radials. LSD will be next year. I want to focus on the looks of the car and horrendous engine bay. 

On the list of things to do. 
Battery relocate, 
Clean up lines and wires. 
New dipstick tube
Tap cold side for WG pressure source, running off IM now (this will be done soon. I need to decide on a coupler tap or drill and tap the compressor. 
New paint, front bumper, hood, smooth rub strips etc. 
Fab shield for 034 surge. 

Enough blabbing for now. 
Pictures from a few minutes ago. 

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7-22-12. 
It's alive, idle is complete sh!t. I'm not even getting a reading on the AEM for a/f. 
I tried logging block 32 in Maestro while I was holding the rpm around 2. 
I was not seeing any reading. 

I am using the 870 base file from Chris. 

Cold side IC piping is disconnected. 
Smells like sh!t, like burn your throat from the fumes. 


Any suggestions? 


Will not having the IC piping have that big of an effect?





4-26 Edit. 
Haven't had much time to update this...
I have started reconnecting wiring, enough to get the initial log for Chris. 
I am most likely going to unplug it all again and start rerouting it. 
I already split alot of the sensors apart and rewrapped the factory harness. 

I received the 034 and 044 from unnaturaly aspirated, great seller, Picked up the Russell adapters for the stock lines. I really don't like how they stick out of the bay like 2 saplings. 
I am really leaning towards running new lines from the filter.... Could I run a -4 braided from the filter to the surge; reason I ask is I can get a hell of a deal on premade braided from my machine shop... I can pass it on to you:thumbup:

I am also thinking about relocating the battery... This would give me room to mount the surge/pump... I don't like it on the passenger side where the coolant ball was. 
I have also contemplated mounting it behind the rear tire, I would rather keep the pump close to the rail... 

Lots of ideas, I will have time to work on the car now, I received a promotion at work:thumbup::thumbup: 
11 edit. 
Motor is in the car. eace:

Need to figure out a surge tank setup, or do I? The stock intank has it's own surge tank incorporated, could I just run an 044 inline and not have to worry below 1/4 tank? 
I have been reading for most of the morning on this issue. 

I am also talking with a very helpful memeber here about a top secret idea

I also came across this picture

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Why couldn't I run the 044 right off the tank? 
so stock feed into the top of the surge, pump off the bottom off the surge to the rail, return from fpr back to surge, surge back to stock return.... Do you read me major tom? :thumbup:




4-3 edit. 
Mounted the rest of the turbo parts. Have to run some misc lines and it can go back in the car. 

I am worried about the routing of the coolant and oil drain lines. 

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Made my own gasket because one wasn't included

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3-30

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3-21 EDIT
Should have it home this weekend

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2-2 Edit. 
Here are pics that show the guide pin issue

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1-9 Update 
Alright I need a new cam chain tensioner. ...
AEB is non VVT, correct

I still have the harness for VVT... 

Question is, Do I order the replacement CCT w VVT from MJM, or run non VVT?
What is the part number for non vvt cct?

I just want to get this damn thing back together already:banghead: Machine shop has everything else done. Oh I also need a part number for cam cap screws, can't find them anywhere:banghead:


11-9 Update. 
Received a nice box of parts from CTS a few days ago. Haven't had much time to get anything done. 

Here is what I have
x Supertech valves 
x Supertech spring and retainer kit 
x OEM lifter set 
x Supertech valve seal kit
x Cam chain 
x 06A IE manual timing belt kit with water pump 
x 06A IE Dowel pinned crank gear
x ARP head bolt kit 
x 06A Crank bolt, OEM 


I still need to order 
software(maestro), 
injectors(ID 1000's ?), 
Turbo setup(Is it worth the extra money to upgrade to the water cooled 5857? With the hours I am working the cash for that won't be an issue.)
Cluthc(FX400 w steel flywheel)
ARP Flywheel bolts. 
FMIC Setup
Other misc fluids, etc

EDIT 10-23
I believe I have an ADR head.
Part numbers I found are:
058 103 373 A, 03050994wz, 058 A 13, 058 351 E


The issue I am having is the guide pins on the block are not lining up with the holes on the head.

The pins on the block are 10 3/4", the wholes on the head are at 9 3/4"
The head-gasket lines up fine with the holes on the head but it doesn't line up with the pins on the block...
I can get pics if that makes it easier. ..

Also what does everyone use to remove the valve springs? 
Autozones rental is to big. 
I saw posts with people using various tools, I don't want to mar the walls for the lifters. 


Edit 10-11
Have the stroker motor 9.0:1 compression
Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations? I am leaning toward the fx400 but am still considering a double puck. 

I will be running the 5857, it's looking like CTS will be supplying it. 

Ordered an RMR intake mani and DLI motor mounts. 
I have both raxles
The transmission is fixed, need to decide on fluid. MT90?

I will be building the AEB head with schrick cams, 252/260
I am most like going to use supertech valvetrain components and stock intake valves. 
I will be replacing all of the lifters and seals. 

I am still torn between a manual timing tensioner setup. 




Specs on the motor. 
2008cc stroker motor - Motor was built by 034 motorsports using their stroker kit
New 2.0L FSI crankshaft w/ correct 06A/06B oil pump gear pressed on
Supertech 83MM forged pistons in 9.0:1 compression
Scat 144/20 forged connecting rods
Coated Main and Rod Bearings

I have decided it's time for a proper setup in my car. 
I had lost first gear a few weeks ago and before pulling the transmission to get it fixed I decided to beat on it and have some fun. ... Long story short the clutch didn't like 6k launches in second. 
I will have those carnage pictures up later. 

After fighting with the 02M removal, not listening to wiser members on this forum who told me to pull the motor, I made the decision that I am not putting the transmission in without building the motor. 
A friend and fellow member AudiTTor offered me his current motor and head. It is a deal I can't turn down. 
Specs for that are:


I am taking the transmission to APtuning tomorrow to be fixed and having the shift fork tapped and strengthened while it is apart. 

I have a passenger side raxle on the way and the driver-side is already here. :thumbup::thumbup: For Marty he is a great guy, very helpful and informative. 



I am torn between which kit I want to buy and which turbo to run. 
All of the ebay(EMUSA) kit is coming off the car. I will be reusing the IC piping and replacing the core. I was surprised at how well it has held up and it still has no issues. 20psi daily driven and abused. 
I figure that I am doing everything else and I don't want to deal with that ATP mani ever again. 

CTS is my first choice. Clay has been extremely helpful. 
Al has also been a great help. 


I am looking for something that will be great on the highway but also good in town. I don't mind the late spool, this should help with fuel efficiency once I lose the lead foot. 


Questions that I have are:
1. Will the 630's be enough for the 5857, could I run a 4bar fpr if needed? 
2. What is your favorite kit, CTS, PAG, or FFE? 
I am looking for something that will be great on the highway but also good in town. I don't mind the late spool, this should help with fuel efficiency once I lose the lead foot. 
4. Other things I am forgetting and will ask as I remember. 

I am really looking forward to the end result.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Can I run a stock AEB intake manifold? Will there be fitment issues?


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

yeah, but if you are building the head, and going, with the turbo is there any way you could get an SEM or custom? I know money can be an issue, if it is just use the stocker.. I went with the 870's, but i want like 29-30psi daily. The 5857 will definitely push the limits on the 630's with 4 bar IIRC.. have to work the formulas again or try to find the originals. I had the same questions you did.

FIY- got a 5857 BB and ordered the pagparts mani and DP. Should be shipped this week :thumbup:


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## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

also did you go with the IE dowel rod kit? Money is kinda tight so im wondering if I can get by for a few months (3-4) before tearing into it again..


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## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

Definitely a fan of the FFE kits. You can't go wrong with one of there mini me kits.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I looked at the mini me. 
I really want something V-Banded to make it super easy to swap turbos down the road.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I am trying to find the part # for the aeb intake manifold gasket. 
I am going to pick one up and port my stock one out the best I can till I can pic up an aftermarket IM. 

I called autozone and asked if they had one for a 99 A4 and he said yes, when I look on rockauto the gasket is the same for the 99 A4,AEB, and an 02 gti:screwy:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I popped on a PAG bottom mount kit on earlier today and it went together like clockwork. It was worlds better than the ATP stuff it replaced. I should've just done this from the get go 3yrs ago.

Pag T3 BM Mani
50 Trim
Tial F38 WG
Rerouted Downpipe
Swapped TB to DS side - Noodle with all the wiring to fit
Apex Tuning DS IC plumbing


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

How much nicer is it to have the vband many then the t3 flange?


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

One nut vs 4 is a big step up as far as I'm concerned - I would've loved to have gone Vband everything, but I was in a unique position w/ the old style Tial 38 (pretty sure the newer mani's are all Vband) I have and a T3 footprint. Custom tailoring little details and bits really seems to be the great part about working with PAG. You ultimately get something that is setup for you and your car. I sent him a used DP and my turbo and he jigged it all up to his mani w/ a rerouted dump that fit just about perfectly come installation time. The manifold was on in minutes instead of hours. Honestly, I can't say enough good things about these setups.

What you don't get w/ one of these kits:

Torturous installation
Warped flanges
Thin wall - subpar materials
Plumbing (Downpipe or IC) that rubs on everything
Crappy hardware
Crappy oil lines

PM me if you have more questions.


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## 20thAEGti1009 (Jan 28, 2005)

hootyburra said:


> I looked at the mini me.
> I really want something V-Banded to make it super easy to swap turbos down the road.


Pretty sure FFE will vband just about anything you want. They are also a great bunch of guys to deal with. If your looking for the best there really is no other options IMO.


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

630's @ 4 bar will not be enough for a 5857- if you use it / push it hard. 

FWIW, the 02m drops in/out pretty easily, if you drain it and take off both axle cups.


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

screwball said:


> ..... Custom tailoring little details and bits really seems to be the great part about working with PAG. You ultimately get something that is setup for you and your car. I sent him a used DP and my turbo and he jigged it all up to his mani w/ a rerouted dump that fit just about perfectly come installation time. The manifold was on in minutes instead of hours. Honestly, I can't say enough good things about these setups.
> 
> What you don't get w/ one of these kits:
> 
> ...


Yeah he does great work. Heres a pic of the T3/T4 Quattro downpipe w/ o2 recirc he jigged up to fit a golf chassis/firewall entrance for me. He never made on like this before; fitment was perfect and my car was 200 miles away. My setup is awesome to work on I never have to fight with anything. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> 630's @ 4 bar will not be enough for a 5857- if you use it / push it hard.
> 
> FWIW, the 02m drops in/out pretty easily, if you drain it and take off both axle cups.


Not taking off the cups was my mistake...

What injectors would be good? Looks like I need a new tune also.


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Ya, I've done that too, left them on trying to save time... Not so much :laugh:

An 830/870 will work, or a 1000, just depends who you are using for tuning and what they have which will run good on an injector in that ballpark. A lot of the files in that size are pretty rough compared to the 630cc files


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> 630's @ 4 bar will not be enough for a 5857- if you use it / push it hard.
> 
> FWIW, the 02m drops in/out pretty easily, if you drain it and take off both axle cups.


Really all you need it the pass cup out and it slides right in. It's heavy to lift by hand but with a picker or a lift of some kind theres a eye let or ear let to pick it from the top. Easy squeezy, no oil drain or anything :thumbup:



hootyburra said:


> Not taking off the cups was my mistake...
> 
> What injectors would be good? Looks like I need a new tune also.


Lucas 830's are great injectors. Any bigger and go ID1000's or 1200's :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

It looks like I am picking up the Tapp 1000cc file also. 


I have been talking with Clay and he has been very helpful so far. 
:thumbup: for great communication.


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## sledge0001 (Oct 7, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> It looks like I am picking up the Tapp 1000cc file also.
> 
> 
> I have been talking with Clay and he has been very helpful so far.
> :thumbup: for great communication.


Vband ONLY!!! It will save you hours of wrenching...

I swear by my pagparts setup where I swore at my ATP setup


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

TooLFan46n2 said:


> Yeah he does great work. Heres a pic of the T3/T4 Quattro downpipe w/ o2 recirc he jigged up to fit a golf chassis/firewall entrance for me. He never made on like this before; fitment was perfect and my car was 200 miles away. My setup is awesome to work on I never have to fight with anything. :thumbup:


(and a loose bolt)


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I really want something V-Banded to make it super easy to swap turbos down the road.


Installing or re-installing is a PITA if you don't have a lift and are doing it by yourself. Holding up the turbo with one arm and trying to get the v-band clamp on and tightened is tricky. Even more so, my case, when you're on the floor with the car on jack stands :banghead:



hootyburra said:


> How much nicer is it to have the vband many then the t3 flange?


See above



screwball said:


> One nut vs 4 is a big step up as far as I'm concerned


Tell me installing wasn't a total breeze with the vband clamp? That **** is a PITA sometimes. More so after the clamps have gone through several heat cycles.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I couldn't tell you cause I'm T3 man, and I didn't bolt the turbo to the manifold before I popped it all in so there's one problematic nut by the center section that was a pain in the balls to reach from under the car, but if that's the worst of my problems I'm fine. I "pulled" my ATP mani w/ a cut off wheel for comparison, I won't even get in to that saga.


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## velocity196 (Feb 19, 2006)

V bands are awesome! I only have them on my DP but if I ever get rid of my kinetic manifold, it's going v band everything!


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Have the motor pulled. 
The freon leak when I loosened the AC lines was pretty neat. 
Transmission will be done by next week. 
Trashed second gear hub and synchro. 

Will probably move the PS reservoir and delete the coolant ball.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

more pics


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## IAmTheNacho (Oct 26, 2003)

If your talking about a front wheel drive 02M the easiest way to pull and install is to leave the transmission completely intact and drop the subframe and let it float. 4 bolts no cups to remove very simple. Although im spoiled and dont have the rust situation most do outside of Arizona.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

picked up an engine stand at HF today. 
Forgot to get longer bolts to secure it :banghead:

I am thinking about relocating the power steering reservoir to under the wiper tank, removing the coolant ball and getting rid of the wiper tank. This should clean up the passenger side alot.


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## wagner17 (Oct 20, 2009)

love my stand from hf :thumbup::thumbup:


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> I am thinking about relocating the power steering reservoir to under the wiper tank, removing the coolant ball and getting rid of the wiper tank. This should clean up the passenger side alot.


We should really look at doing this on my TT. Perhaps i could mount a surge tank over there with the 044 and wouldnt have to worry about slosh off the launch.


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## tedgram (Jul 2, 2005)

I need to clean up my engine bay also hardly have room for just the fuel pump.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

AudiTToR said:


> We should really look at doing this on my TT. Perhaps i could mount a surge tank over there with the 044 and wouldnt have to worry about slosh off the launch.


It doesn't look to hard. Get that motor to PA


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I am going to be tucking some wires on the passenger side and cleaning that area up.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Found a good deal on a CTS 50 trim kit. 

Thinking about running this with the AEB head. 

26 psi should be plenty of fun right?


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

PMs are full hooty 

50 trim at 25+ w/ big port stuff and cams should bring you well over 400wheel.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

im glad you decided not to get the 5857. running 26 psi on a 50 trim is sick. i have run 25/26 psi before and i wish i could do it daily lol. i need rods :facepalm: i run 22.5 psi daily, but the extra 3/4 psi is  also, you know i have the small port so big port would be even nastier. AND you got cams :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I cleared the pm's awhile ago. 
They should go through now. 

Now the question is CTS kit or PAG, or ffe? 

The CTS kit seems to be the most complete kit. 
I'm not really worried about nuts and bolts. I can get them easy.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

i would go ffe mini me kit


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

go pagparts or cts :thumbup:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> go pagparts :thumbup:


 oh and OP, upgrade my old file if you havent already. i had that ECU setup for 630s back in 2007!


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

sent you a PM boosted. :beer:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Pagparts. It is worth the wait. 

The iron he uses is better than what garrett uses for their exhausty heaty stuff. It even smells different when you grind it flat or sand it flat.


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## sledge0001 (Oct 7, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Pagparts. It is worth the wait.


 No doubt. Pagparts all the way. :thumbup:


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

Haha...equal length or bust. 

mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> Haha...equal length or bust.
> 
> mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.


 

Verdict is out for long term reliability. I know Ed has insane fabrication skills and does it right, but you are asking a welded tube manifold with a flange to stand up to be glowing red, hit giant potholes and bumps at speed, cool down, and vibrate like mad. 

I'm no fanboy, I like to pick the best solution regardless of who makes it. For a daily 
driven type street car an iron manifold is a requirement to me.. 

I don't want to be in Colorado on vacation or a random trip and find my manifold cracked and I need to find someone to tig it etc


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> I don't want to be in Colorado on vacation or a random trip and find my manifold cracked and I need to find someone to tig it etc


 Then Wrap it. no more worries, its braced by itself.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> Then Wrap it. no more worries, its braced by itself.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

AudiTToR said:


> Haha...equal length or bust.
> 
> mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.


 X 2 lol

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

AudiTToR said:


> Haha...equal length or bust.
> 
> mini me, cts, and pag do not compare.


 x3 but i had to choose one of the companies he posted. i would choose any 3 but the cars that roll out off ffe are insane so i chose them :laugh:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

A stroker motor is going in. 
Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations? 
Can I run the G60 flywheel I keep reading about when looking for info? 

Specs on the motor. 
2008cc stroker motor - Motor was built by 034 motorsports using their stroker kit 
New 2.0L FSI crankshaft w/ correct 06A/06B oil pump gear pressed on 
Supertech 83MM forged pistons in 9.0:1 compression 
Scat 144/20 forged connecting rods 
Short block is fully assembled and awaiting a new home. 
Coated Main and Rod Bearings 

Should I try and budget for a bigger turbo then the 50 trim? 
Then I will have to upgrade the fueling and tune, correct? 630's will max out around 425whp?


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## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> A stroker motor is going in.
> Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations?
> Can I run the G60 flywheel I keep reading about when looking for info?
> 
> ...


 You can not run that flywheel with a 6 speed tranny:thumbdown:....5speed..yes:thumbup:


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

See my fueling thread (and bobQ's thread linked in there) for the max power possible by each injector. 

Just my $.02... 

Get some Lucas 830 injectors and the Unitronics MAFless 830 file. It's pretty rock solid and will fuel most things you can throw at it.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> See my fueling thread (and bobQ's thread linked in there) for the max power possible by each injector.
> 
> Just my $.02...
> 
> Get some Lucas 830 injectors and the Unitronics MAFless 830 file. It's pretty rock solid and will fuel most things you can throw at it.


 Looks like I am selling the Eurodyne afterall. I will see what I can do to get it upgraded first.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations?
> Can I run the G60 flywheel I keep reading about when looking for info?
> 
> Should I try and budget for a bigger turbo then the 50 trim?
> Then I will have to upgrade the fueling and tune, correct? 630's will max out around 425whp?


 If you're gonna spend money on a clutch/flywheel kit I would go with Clutchmasters. If you are gonna be daily-ing the car go with a FX400, 6 puck clutch, steel flywheel. If you're drag-racing the car only, FX725 twin disk, aluminum flywheel. They also have an FX850 twin disk. Not too sure about the specs on that one other than its 8.50" vs the 7.25" FX725. G60 fw works with the 5 speeds not the 6.

Contact Marc @ VAPmotorsports. He will hook you up with great pricing. Tell him I sent you.

I would budget for a bigger turbo than a 50 trim but it all depends on what your goals are. Since you have that 2L block you may as well take advantage of that extra displacement by getting a turbo > a 50 trim. My $0.02. But again, it all depends on what your goals are. lots of people start off small and eventually go bigger. why waste money 2 or 3 or 4 times? Go bigger the first time.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> If you're gonna spend money on a clutch/flywheel kit I would go with Clutchmasters. If you are gonna be daily-ing the car go with a FX400, 6 puck clutch, steel flywheel. If you're drag-racing the car only, FX725 twin disk, aluminum flywheel. They also have an FX850 twin disk. Not too sure about the specs on that one other than its 8.50" vs the 7.25" FX725. G60 fw works with the 5 speeds not the 6.
> 
> Contact Marc @ VAPmotorsports. He will hook you up with great pricing. Tell him I sent you.
> 
> I would budget for a bigger turbo than a 50 trim but it all depends on what your goals are. Since you have that 2L block you may as well take advantage of that extra displacement by getting a turbo > a 50 trim. My $0.02. But again, it all depends on what your goals are. lots of people start off small and eventually go bigger. why waste money 2 or 3 or 4 times? Go bigger the first time.


 I will get in touch with him tomorrow. 
The 60-1 is still to small? 
Back to the 5857? 6262? What will spill be like with the 2L? 
Any informative thread on this?


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## pielout (Jul 12, 2006)

i was in the same boat as you and ended up with the FFE mini-me kit...it was either them or pag cus i wanted a bottom mount kit due to stealthyness and i hear about the extra heat in the engine bay due to top mount....i have yet to install since the motor is getting a complete overhaul and i just like you will be tucking some wires, the craftsmanship on the fabrication is flawless:thumbup: im sure whatever you decide you will enjoy 

cpl of pics:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Pieout- How long did it take for you to get the FFE kit? 
I see they have a 4-6 week time on there webpage. 


Other questions. 
IE timing belt kit? 
ARP hardware obviously. Head Studs, Bolts? 
Is it worth the extra money to upgrade from the journal bearing? 
What about the 60-1 with the stroker? 

Does anyone have dynos? 

Will gas mileage be improved or worsen with different compression assuming I stay out of boost? 

I will most likely upgrade to an 044 pump since I don't think the 255 will be enough.


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## pielout (Jul 12, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> Pieout- How long did it take for you to get the FFE kit?
> I see they have a 4-6 week time on there webpage.
> 
> .


 It actually took them almost ten weeks due to them having 3 other kits ordered around the same time and only 1 welder in house, also they were waiting on vender parts, but worth the wait


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

gdoggmoney said:


> Verdict is out for long term reliability. I know Ed has insane fabrication skills and does it right, but you are asking a welded tube manifold with a flange to stand up to be glowing red, hit giant potholes and bumps at speed, cool down, and vibrate like mad.
> 
> I'm no fanboy, I like to pick the best solution regardless of who makes it. For a daily
> driven type street car an iron manifold is a requirement to me..
> ...


 please show me one of eds tubular manifolds that has had an issue....this type of post comes up all the time and there is nothing to show for it that i have seen 

tubular vbanded or gtfo 












pielout said:


> It actually took them almost ten weeks due to them having 3 other kits ordered around the same time and only 1 welder in house, also they were waiting on vender parts, but worth the wait


 i think i was down there as yours got finished and packed up :thumbup: 

best time to hit up ed is during the off season....not the middle of summer when everyone wants thier stuff done at the same time :laugh: but the wait is worth the end result thats for sure


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I don't think anyone's knocking Ed or FFE's welding capabilities, It's just the old cast vs tube debate.


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

screwball said:


> I don't think anyone's knocking Ed or FFE's welding capabilities, It's just the old cast vs tube debate.


 thats kinda my point....if you have it done by a reputable welder who uses the correct materials you should have no problems at all


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> I don't think anyone's knocking Ed or FFE's welding capabilities, It's just the old cast vs tube debate.


 :thumbup::thumbup: 

For me it is going to come down to the best prices and customer service. 
I see that all 3 have great quality parts. I have read so many pissing matches about who's is better and really there is no winner. All of them are great kits and will make great power with the right supporting mods. 

I am looking to buy the Ferrea Valvetrain 
A new turbo kit. The whole kit, turbo mani, dp, intake, lines, wg, hardware. 
I am selling everything that was on the car. 
A new FMIC. I'm still up in the air about buying a good core and using a universal piping setup. I want to go 2.5 all around. 
Large port Intake Mani 
New Injectors and probably pump. 
New clutch kit w/ steel flywheel. 
ARP head studs/bolts and ARP flywheel bolts. 

It will pretty much be a new car when things are done.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

ForVWLife said:


> tubular vbanded or gtfo


 
Couldn't agree with you more 










lol


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

They really do look awesome and like a quality mani but is the difference in price going to justify the gains? 
Is it a pita to take the turbo on and off trying to line up the vband and hold everything?


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

youll probably lose a little low end because less back pressure from the tubular mani but youll make more power up top and it will feel smoother. and v-band is probably easier than anything to put on and off


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## ForVWLife (Nov 12, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> They really do look awesome and like a quality mani but is the difference in price going to justify the gains?
> Is it a pita to take the turbo on and off trying to line up the vband and hold everything?


 putting a vband turbo on is a breeze...the flanges kinda slide together 

get the clamp on and tighten it down and align it as neccesary 

to me the extra cost of the manifold is worth the price of having vbands everywhere 

exhasut/turbo bolts and studs are the worst


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I just started to glance at the long discussion on VVT. I have alot more reading to do when my mind isn't shot. 

With the AEB head, cams and stroker will I need the VVT? 
Can I have it tuned out by eurodyne/Chris? 
If so Just resistor it off... 
I saw a few things about rough starts and fuel trims but that seemed to be when it wasn't tuned out.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

ForVWLife said:


> please show me one of eds tubular manifolds that has had an issue....this type of post comes up all the time and there is nothing to show for it that i have seen
> 
> tubular vbanded or gtfo
> 
> ...


 




Listen bud. Ed is a gifted fabricator and I have seen his work. I have also seen many others with skills like his and hope myself one day I can do 3/4 of what he can with a tig. 

Facts are facts. Materials are materials. A thick iron casting when machined flat and not left to rust is reliable long term for 10+ years. Look at good castings on old things like a Volvo, 
Etc. They require decade gasket replacement and or machining flat/cleaning and new hardwar 

I've yet to see a tube manifold last like that, and when I'm in Washington state I don't want to find out that the heat cycle and glowing red to ambient and sub 0 temperature cycling did my beautiful tube header in. 


The mini me is short and well thought out, lots of welds thick and thick flanges. I'd run that on a street car cruiser. If I want rock sid reliability no questions? Quality casting. 

I drive everywhere and have a small toolbox with me. I don't have a tig and what I'd need to fix that properly 1500 miles from my garage, and sending it back to Ed while your car is there.... Have fun. 

Different applications, different tools and toys.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Listen bud. Ed is a gifted fabricator and I have seen his work. I have also seen many others with skills like his and hope myself one day I can do 3/4 of what he can with a tig.
> 
> Facts are facts. Materials are materials. A thick iron casting when machined flat and not left to rust is reliable long term for 10+ years. Look at good castings on old things like a Volvo,
> Etc. They require decade gasket replacement and or machining flat/cleaning and new hardwar
> ...


 :thumbup::thumbup:


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Facts are facts. Materials are materials. A thick iron casting when machined flat and not left to rust is reliable long term for 10+ years. Look at good castings on old things like a Volvo,
> Etc. They require decade gasket replacement and or machining flat/cleaning and new hardwar
> 
> I've yet to see a tube manifold last like that, and when I'm in Washington state I don't want to find out that the heat cycle and glowing red to ambient and sub 0 temperature cycling did my beautiful tube header in.
> ...


 Ok....this is what it comes down to, the user is talking about maxing out big turbos. A lot of you spout of information and have no idea what you are actually talking about. Cast manifolds are great if you wanna chill in the 400whp rhelm. Sure they can be pushed further.....but at the end of the day a well built equal length can not be beat. You talk as if an equal length is gonna fall apart after a season....or two. You obviously have no idea what you are talking about. The hp gain is not even compariable. The flow is not even comparible. 

The kid is building a set up perfectly for a high flowing turbo to make huge numbers and lay down quality times at the track. If you do not have the correct knowledge, get the F out of the way. 

Sori...get an equal length mani, we will get it coated and wrap the dp. Don't listen to these losers nutswinging the products they bought because someone told them it was the best thing to do. You are almost on the forefront of the industry as far as building a fast car...there is no reason to listen to individuals who have never hit more than 400whp in their cars.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

I'm not knocking cast manifolds, some people have made 550+ whp on them. I just like the tubular manifolds better. Theres no denying though that all drag cars looking to break records run tubular manifolds. Theres a reason for that.


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

any turbo car worth a damn is on a tubular mani....end of story.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The only vendor I have talked to with mani's ready to ship is Clay. 

Arnold has been very helpful also. By the time I am ready to order all this with the way I keep changing my mind maybe his tubular's will be back in stock. 


I personally think a cast will be more reliable but unless you are beating the absolute piss out of the car and not letting it cool I can't see a tubular giving you many issues; you would have plenty of other issues if this were the case.


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> The only vendor I have talked to with mani's ready to ship is Clay.
> 
> Arnold has been very helpful also. By the time I am ready to order all this with the way I keep changing my mind maybe his tubular's will be back in stock.
> 
> ...


 CTS is in stock because they are mass produced in CHINA. 

wait for the Pag kit, not point in buying something you aren 100% happy with. plus top mounts suck.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> CTS is in stock because they are mass produced in CHINA.
> 
> wait for the Pag kit, not point in buying something you aren 100% happy with. plus top mounts suck.


 There are some T3 OBX tubular manis on Ebay :laugh: 

Doesn't IE have some tubular manis now also?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> CTS is in stock because they are mass produced in CHINA.
> 
> wait for the Pag kit, not point in buying something you aren 100% happy with. plus top mounts suck.


 That is a pretty bold statement. 

Clay has been nothing but helpful to me, giving advice and answering any questions I have. 
I have read great things about many kits, I am pretty convinced on CTS. 

AudiTTor has also been a major help in all of this. Probably wouldn't be doing this if it weren't for his knowledge and guidance. 

I have also talked with Arnold via pm and he has been helpful also. 

I don't want to start a pissing match and bash anyone. I have been treated good by all the vendors I have talked to so far. 

I came in to ask advice and appreciate all that I have gotten. 

Back when I was contemplating the ebay kit I was told by so many to stay away... 
I'm kind of glad I didn't it was an excellent learning experience, yes the fabrication required was an absolute pain in the ass and the support from the seller was pretty lame,,, would I do it again absolutely not. 

I am doing things properly this time now that I have the funds available to do so. The budget is tight and I am making sure I spend wisely and have all my homework done before I buy. 

I have found more threads that turn into pissing matches about z-kit being better then x-kit and q-kit being the best and you get the picture. 

Well that is the end of my discussion for the night. 

Let's keep this thread on track and keep it informative. :heart:


----------



## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

Don't listen to that AudiTToR guy. he doesnt even have a 1,000 posts. No way he knows anything about this stuff. He is practically a NEWB


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

AudiTToR said:


> Don't listen to that AudiTToR guy. he doesnt even have a 1,000 posts. No way he knows anything about this stuff. He is practically a NEWB


 lol, are you working on an engagement right now? No time for vortexing. :laugh:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

It's the fact that you're being a Dick that is turning people off. 

You run a tube mani? More power to you - pun intended. I'm not paying $1k for a manifold, The "dollar dollar bills yall" aint really flowing like that in this economy for me. If that means I lose some top end and a little bit out of the curve then so be it.


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> lol, are you working on an engagement right now? No time for vortexing. :laugh:


 haha cleaning up an old engagement....but yea...boring none the less. :laugh: 



screwball said:


> It's the fact that you're being a Dick that is turning people off.
> 
> You run a tube mani? More power to you - pun intended. I'm not paying $1k for a manifold, The "dollar dollar bills yall" aint really flowing like that in this economy for me. If that means I lose some top end and a little bit out of the curve then so be it.


 Please review the title of the thread....stop swinging nuts about your pag kit...and get back to me when you figure out what "Doing things right this time" means. 

And answer me this...who would be a more of a "dick"? The person who sets people straight and tells them to stop promoting a kit because its the one they have......and in return gives out the correct information and points the OP in the correct direction for what he is trying to do, or the person that convinces him spend another 3 grand for a kit that he will need to change later down the road and spend another 2g's to do it correctly? Seems pretty obvious to me who the "dick" would be.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Oh, hahaha you wanna talk about reading huh? And nutswingers? you need a reality check dude, I'm all for PAG, he's working on my car, but I've always had love for FFE and their workmanship. I run some of their parts on my car. I'm not gonna endorse CTS as I don't run any of their stuff (no experience with them) and I do my best to buy American. Period. 

The word : B U D G E T is right above me in Hooty's post about who he'll go with. $1000 tube manifold vs $500 cast manifold. You're math is off slugger. 

In reality I could care less who he chooses. I PM'd him a week ago and let him know how my PAG experience has gone, because we've corresponded in the past about Eurodyne sucking and 50 trim stuff. I'm not signing dude's checks, he is, so the decision is up to him. 

Whatever coffee you drink is too strong homie, you need to make the switch to decaf.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> Ok....this is what it comes down to, the user is talking about maxing out big turbos. A lot of you spout of information and have no idea what you are actually talking about. Cast manifolds are great if you wanna chill in the 400whp rhelm. Sure they can be pushed further.....but at the end of the day a well built equal length can not be beat. You talk as if an equal length is gonna fall apart after a season....or two. You obviously have no idea what you are talking about. The hp gain is not even compariable. The flow is not even comparible.
> 
> The kid is building a set up perfectly for a high flowing turbo to make huge numbers and lay down quality times at the track. If you do not have the correct knowledge, get the F out of the way.
> 
> Sori...get an equal length mani, we will get it coated and wrap the dp. Don't listen to these losers nutswinging the products they bought because someone told them it was the best thing to do. You are almost on the forefront of the industry as far as building a fast car...there is no reason to listen to individuals who have never hit more than 400whp in their cars.


 
:facepalm: 












Coating and wrap increase the chances but hey, oh well. Again, apparently you ignored or have ADD, but different applications different tools. You want big power? Tubular. You want something you can bolt on for 10 years and not worry about it if done gasketless, all things machined flat and surfaces kept from rotting? Cast. 

Can we increase the attention span here back to 1.8T forum from MKIV forum levels?


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

screwball said:


> you need a reality check dude.


 Haha...thanks for the "reality check". Or is it...."Checking" in Jersey. 

Yo he checked you fool. Shut your mouth...go do your laundry and hit the gym Brah.


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Coating and wrap increase the chances but hey, oh well. Again, apparently you ignored or have ADD, but different applications different tools. You want big power? Tubular. You want something you can bolt on for 10 years and not worry about it if done gasketless, all things machined flat and surfaces kept from rotting? Cast.


 *Apparently you ignored or have ADD*, but the individual is putting together a stroker motor, large port headreving to 9k, deciding on either an HTA3586 or 6262Dbb, with enough fuel to max it out. Would you and your "stancing knowledge" suggest he tries to flow the max numbers of those turbo's through a cast mani? And if so...why? because of reliability?


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Its obvious that this can go on and on forever. Lets also not make base statements about what is out there and what ppl dont have experience with. This tubular thing is not really very technical. So just because you have a tubular manifold on your vehicle, you're faster? You expect more power under the curve because its been pounded into your head that its better? I've built and am still currently building tubular manifolds. Its slave labor but I will for the right project. I would not put money on it solely based on the fact that its tubular however. I have videos of regular cast manifold'ed vehicles absolutely pulling away from a similarly equipped tubular manifold on similar boost levels. I mean just embarrassingly. I have a setup (Metric Racing) in the mobil one championships that just placed FIRST overall (also placed 2nd last year) in the GT2 class beating out, yes, every car in its class this season. That is 25 races and no failures.. We've made over 600whp on a vehicle with a 600hp turbo... The manifold is a small equation to this whole process. There are those that have made 800+whp on cast mani's and you can be sure that John Shephard and Jason Hunt have 'mattered'


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Its obvious that this can go on and on forever. Lets also not make base statements about what is out there and what ppl dont have experience with. This tubular thing is not really very technical. So just because you have a tubular manifold on your vehicle, you're faster? You expect more power under the curve because its been pounded into your head that its better? I've built and am still currently building tubular manifolds. Its slave labor but I will for the right project. I would not put money on it solely based on the fact that its tubular however. I have videos of regular cast manifold'ed vehicles absolutely pulling away from a similarly equipped tubular manifold on similar boost levels. I mean just embarrassingly. I have a setup (Metric Racing) in the mobil one championships that just placed FIRST overall (also placed 2nd last year) in the GT2 class beating out, yes, every car in its class this season. That is 25 races and no failures.. We've made over 600whp on a vehicle with a 600hp turbo... The manifold is a small equation to this whole process. There are those that have made 800+whp on cast mani's and you can be sure that John Shephard and Jason Hunt have 'mattered'


 
Arnold, maxing out these turbos do called for an equal length manfiold. As you know, because you are familiar with the "technical" aspects you say that are missing from this thread. If we started talking the flow rates of backpressure, and the comparison of that to intake pressure....heads would just spin in here. 

And you know that these cars might be running similar boost levels, and one destroys the other, that there is more than likely other variables in the mix than just a tubi vs cast manifold. 

I understand that equal lengths are a pain to make, and its easier to drop ship an already manufactured mani to make a profit. But at the end of the day....the kid needs an equal length mani to maximize the efficency of his set up. There is no doubt about it. You just have to decide if you want to be the one who builds it or if he goes elsewhere with his money. 

Havent both Jason Hunt and Shep moved to tubular manifolds?


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> There are those that have made 800+whp on cast mani's and you can be sure that John Shephard and Jason Hunt have 'mattered'


 Shep ran upper 8's on his HKS Cast manifold.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> *Apparently you ignored or have ADD*, but the individual is putting together a stroker motor, large port headreving to 9k, deciding on either an HTA3586 or 6262Dbb, with enough fuel to max it out. Would you and your "stancing knowledge" suggest he tries to flow the max numbers of those turbo's through a cast mani? And if so...why? because of reliability?


 This post, right here, by you is the first mention of a 6262 or a HTA3586 as well as 9k rpm. 

We have shrick cams, and 5857 or 50 trim as far as my browse can search in all three pages so far. 60-1 is the largest turbo mentioned, and i'd run a 60-1 as a last resort given other choices with modern turbine/compressors. 

Lay off the coke, or the coffee there. Last time I checked, an AEB head, shrick cams with springs and supertech valves, plus 2.0l worth of displacement did not mean 9k rpm, and 650-700hp worth of turbo. 

Just sayin, maybe you should go crank one out or ask your partner for a handy to clear your head. 


Or maybe you should just lower it brah, and stance out to the max. We are all dubbers here brah.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> Arnold, maxing out these turbos do called for an equal length manfiold. As you know, because you are familiar with the "technical" aspects you say that are missing from this thread. If we started talking the flow rates of backpressure, and the comparison of that to intake pressure....heads would just spin in here.
> 
> And you know that these cars might be running similar boost levels, and one destroys the other, that there is more than likely other variables in the mix than just a tubi vs cast manifold.
> 
> ...


 
PS. Heads would not spin, you are not alone in your knowledge and your personality sucks harder than a crackwhore at work with images of a five rock dancing through her head. 

It is sort of like you are arguing with yourself here. Are you feeling well? 

You also like to completely ignore any sort of... logic. Or you know, reason.


----------



## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

boosted b5 said:


> Shep ran upper 8's on his HKS Cast manifold.


 which was almost an equal length mani.....a far cry from anything we have available in "Cast".


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

BOOST YOUR TRUBO SON SON! 

Good luck Hooty, seriuosly, car sounds like it'll be wicked. 

Best thing I did in here. 

Best thing I did in here.


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

Gdoggmoney looks a little upset....sorry i hurt your feelings. I'm already in tears i lost screwball's attention.


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

AudiTToR said:


> If we started talking the flow rates of backpressure, and the comparison of that to intake pressure....heads would just spin in here.


 And what would ye have to say about said flow rates of backpressure?:laugh:


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

I dont know...I really have no idea what im talking about. 

Im a crack whore sucking f ball addicted to coffee and i need to rub one off. Why would you take advice from me?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> Gdoggmoney looks a little upset....sorry i hurt your feelings. I'm already in tears i lost screwball's attention.


 Not at all, just making some common sense observations here, fgt.


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Not at all, just making some common sense observations here, fgt.


 perhaps you should stop getting drunk and offering 500 bucks for a full race manifold if you are so against them. Bu i guess thats just a common sense observation....I'm not really good at them. 


or is that just how you got your post count so high....:laugh:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

AudiTToR said:


> perhaps you should stop getting drunk and offering 500 bucks for a full race manifold if you are so against them. Bu i guess thats just a common sense observation....I'm not really good at them.
> 
> 
> or is that just how you got your post count so high....:laugh:


  

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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

oops, it was your boy screwball...apparently my crack addiction has gotten the best of me.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

AudiTToR said:


> Arnold, maxing out these turbos do called for an equal length manfiold. As you know, because you are familiar with the "technical" aspects you say that are missing from this thread. If we started talking the flow rates of backpressure, and the comparison of that to intake pressure....heads would just spin in here.
> 
> And you know that these cars might be running similar boost levels, and one destroys the other, that there is more than likely other variables in the mix than just a tubi vs cast manifold.
> 
> ...


 Backpressure is not necessarily a bad thing. It allows for energy to be generated quickly down low and keep it maintained in the mid range as your curve is going up. Backpressure is not only generated by the manifold. It is also generated by your housing, turbine wheel and design, etc. Sometimes, you can do more harm then good by freeing up pressures to overwhelm a housing that cannot keep up with itself. This is in laymen's terms of course. Ppl in the peformance culture tend to abuse the whole backpressure theory as well as what a 'cast manifold' is. My newer ss ones is roughly 22% volume. It requires also a few hours of machining and welding time, yes welding time, before its ready. It is not something I pull off the shelves. It requires quite a bit of time on my part to prepare it for use. I have full confidence that surrounding it with the proper components and the right tune, it will perform admireably to the point that it has the ability to break records. But this is not my only scope. Some of my clients are into professional road/snow racing. Rally and road. They are not interested in maxing out a turbo but to deliver the power at the right time... Anyhow, I'm just another voice albeit one that does this every day. I'm only responding to your generalization. You are entitled to your opinions.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

So who has dynos of a tubular mani and cast mani? 

Lets try and get some with the same setup. 

...


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

i have track times for a pagparts t3 3071R setup on a rod/piston AWP, with a hurt head/cylinder. 

25psi, a mix of 110/93 11.90 @ 120.1 mph, open diff, 02M 24.5" slick. 

dynos are gay, track times are what matters.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

AudiTToR said:


> any turbo car worth a damn is on a tubular mani....end of story.


 :facepalm::screwy: so wrong


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> i have track times for a pagparts t3 3071R setup on a rod/piston AWP, with a hurt head/cylinder.
> 
> 25psi, a mix of 110/93 11.90 @ 120.1 mph, open diff, 02M 24.5" slick.
> 
> dynos are gay, track times are what matters.


 
just trying to see the difference between a tube/cast manifold. 

Did you have one of Al's tubular mani's on that pass?


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

boosted b5 said:


> i have track times for a pagparts t3 3071R setup on a rod/piston AWP, with a hurt head/cylinder.
> 
> 25psi, a mix of 110/93 11.90 @ 120.1 mph, open diff, 02M 24.5" slick.
> 
> dynos are gay, track times are what matters.


 Solid post.... Only hope I can hit that et on my setup.


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Boosted ran a standard T3 Bottom Mount manifold. 

The newer SS Bottom Mount Vbands look routed a little more aggressively w/ a more pronounced collector. It looks like high flow was high on the list, Arnold can certainly fill in the details.


----------



## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Anyhow, I'm just another voice albeit one that does this every day. I'm only responding to your generalization. You are entitled to your opinions.


 So hows this for a gerneralization. You know....from someone who doesn't do this for a living. 

In small scale, people without manfold design experience can see the exact concept we are talking about by looking at one piece of the set up, the exhaust housing. If you take a GT30R and slap on a .48 T3 housing (Very small but was actually used often in the early days)...it spooled up quite well, but on the top end it didnt make any power. Then once individuals moved up to the .63 housings (a good amoutn bigger) they were seeing later spool by about 300-400 rpms with different onset characteristics, but they were getting 30-40 more whp up top from the increase in flow of backpressure through the housing. 

Now lets break it down to exhaust manfold design. There are 3 major components that need to be intermingled when designing any manfold, whether it be Cast or equal length, to meet your needs. Runner Volume, Runner Length, and Collector Angle. (I am leaving out wastegate location as it does not pertain to the overall "flow" concept that we are discussing here. As long as you have it in a location where it is seeing flow from all runners and you are not seeing any spike or creep...its doing its job. No more need to elaborate.) 

Runner Volume....Volume is the largest contributing factor to change Flow ratings. (which is why Arnold brought up the increase in volume of your new cast manfiold...its a selling point, but only compared to his old one) What is typically done, whether it be a cast manifold or equal length, will be to find a pipe that has very close inside diameter as the exhaust port itself. This will act as your runner diamter to the collector. The overall volume the unit as a whole will take into account runner length and design of the collector. 

Runner Length...Length of the runners is very important to spool characteristics, and longevity of the turbo. This is where the conversation is going to start getting messy for cast/log owners. Runner length is important for one major reason, exhaust pulse. This pulse is when the cylinder ejects the exhaust gas and pushes it through the manifold until it ultimately reaches the turbo. The problem with a log style manifold (majority of cast manifolds are log style) is the overlap of these exhaust pulses. This overlap creates horrible flow characteristics. Cylinders fire 1,3,4,2 on our motors and this creates a trainwreck inside of a non equal length manifold. When these pulses run into eachother, their velocity decreases and energy is dispursed crashing into eachother rather than being dispursed crashing into the fins of the turbine. So I am sure some of you are wondering whats the best length for each of the runners to be then. That answer is tricky, because mathmatically it is different for every set up. Depends on what RPM you want your max power to be at as well as the port duration of your motor. But the higher the RPM, the shorter the length should be. I know its complicated...but let that one fester on your brain for a little. 

Last and not least is Collector Angle. This is pretty self explanitory...you want it to be a blended and as smooth of a transition as possible. This means keeping the angles of the runners to a minimum. This is pretty easy to do on a an equal length (like the forcefed or full race version the majority of you are used to seeing). But on a cast or log manifold....well this is another problem spot. All of the exhaust gases flow into a common plenum where they often collide with each other causing a lot of turbulence before the turbo. This hurts the turbos performance as all of the energy is spent fighting eachother instead of the fins of the turbine. 

Now have no fear, not all is lost. As Arnold stated earlier Log/Cast manifolds do have their upsides. You will see better spool....more midrange....but you will pay for it top end with lack of efficency in the turbo (another reason Arnold brought up that they made over 600whp on a turbo only rated for 600hp) Insecurity over a specific well known problem of the design should not be spouted off in order to make a sale. Something that is not "Physically" possible with the capabilities of the flow of the turbo means something else was in play. 

Now after this whole huge long rant...I will go back to the main point. The OP is building a set up to max out turbos. you can not do that on a cast/log style manifold. It is not "PHYSICALLY" possible. Revert back to the initial example comparing a .48 exhaust housing to a .63......It would be great if you could get the power of the bigger housing with the spool of the smaller housing....but it just doenst work that way. 

When deciding what you want in a set up, this is just one small step in the process of deciding. Anyone can slap on a kit and make 400 whp these days. But that doesnt mean you did it efficiently. 



Arnold if you are interested in building an equal length for Aaron, please return his call with a price. He will also need a downpipe.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

blah blah blah. hooty sift thru all the bul$hit and come to this solution. keep ur current fueling, fmic, etc. get a pagparts 50 trim or 3071r kit w/ rods and be done. also throw on some motor mounts, they make a helluva difference


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

You see, if you search my old username, I have touched on this topic along w/ VE, comp map plotting exhaustively years ago. I am not going to venture into this again. I understand what you are saying and the end user would think that you are talking about 100whp differences. Most ppl are building their vehicles to drive. Not everyone is building a dedicated straight line race car. So saying this, most ppl are going to be hovering in the .63/.82ar range. You'll pretty much reach the peak flow characteristics of this scroll volume way before turbulence comes into play (well, perhaps not the .82ar). It will also suffer from a lot of backpressure issues as a long runner manifold has a somewhat peaky power delivery. It is more of a gradual buildup. You will benefit more w/ a larger A/R which will make for a pretty doggish daily driver on these motors. You're not dealing w/ a super flowing engine as it is on a 1.8t. Anyhow, if the OP is just interested in building high end power, hell build a sidewinder and throw on a 76mm on there w/ a 4" side exit, punch the motor out to a 2.1L w/ a $1500 port job, solid lifters and cams to suit. If this is the goal, more power to you :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The car will be a daily driver. Both highway and city. 

I am hoping to see full spool by 4500... 

This is why I am leaning towards the 5857 I originally was going to use.. 

I realize the 60-1 is old and laggy. 
I really considered the 6262, it spools later then I would like and the power appears to come on all at once, I don't want to be roasting the tires all the time  

I picked up the RMR manifold and DLI mounts from velocity.. 
I am still up in the air on the clutch. I originally wanted the fx400 6 puck with a steel flywheel. 
I am also considering a twin disk after talking with a few users. 

I will not be dragging the car every weekend but it will see a few weekends each season. 

I have searched for someone with the 5857, a 2L and AEB head but have not found very much... 

Like it said before it is going to come down to the best customer service and prices.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

whatever turbo you choose make sure its ball bearing. deff worth the couple extra bucks. and an FX400 will probably hold the power just fine. i wouldnt go twin disk unless i was drivin a 900hp race car imo. save yourself some $


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> an FX400 will probably hold the power just fine. i wouldnt go twin disk unless i was drivin a 900hp race car imo. save yourself some $


 Unless you're actually drag racing the car and want a clutch to hold up, then a twin disk is a good idea too.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:beer::beer::beer:


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## 860redrabbit (Dec 5, 2006)

my head hurts after reading all this


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

If you get Maestro you gonna have APTuning/Kevin Black build you a file for the car?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> If you get Maestro you gonna have APTuning/Kevin Black build you a file for the car?


 I'm not going maestro 

I'm going to see if I can get Chris to help me out


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Have the stroker motor. 
Still deciding if I want a single or double puck clutch 
Still deciding on what I want to use for the vlavetrain hardware.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

You're gonna try and run an off the shelf flash? I'd be hugely wary if that's the case.


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

screwball said:


> If you get Maestro you gonna have APTuning/Kevin Black build you a file for the car?


 thats probably the best thing you can do as far as plug n play gos. and aptuning is just a skip down rt.81 from you


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Have the stroker motor.
> Still deciding if I want a single or double puck clutch
> Still deciding on what I want to use for the vlavetrain hardware.


maybe this will help you narrow down the valvetrain hardware

ferrea or supertech springs n retainers

f - $797.70

s - $449.99

IE - $649.99

exhaust valves (don't really need intakes)

f - $282.53 (super alloy)

s - $279.99 (inconel)


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> maybe this will help you narrow down the valvetrain hardware
> 
> ferrea or supertech springs n retainers
> 
> ...


Appreciate the breakdown :beer:

Supertech springs and ferrea exhaust valves

Lifters, retainers? 

I'm going to start searching AEB head builds :thumbup:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

screwball said:


> You're gonna try and run an off the shelf flash? I'd be hugely wary if that's the case.


he is running my old 630cc/30R Mafless Tapp file.. super old file.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> he is running my old 630cc/30R Mafless Tapp file.. super old file.


I'm still working to get it updated. If I can't I will sell it and start fresh. :beer:


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> Appreciate the breakdown :beer:
> 
> Supertech springs and ferrea exhaust valves
> 
> ...


you can reuse your old lifters as long as they look good still. the retainers will come with the springs. and fyi supertech springs have the softest spring rate of all 3 of those brands. so i wouldnt want to rev higher than 8200 8500 max. but for most people thats plenty high on a hydro head street car.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/member.php?260461-L.I.VW13 - Tony's got a 5857 on his 2.0 - built big port head. I'm sure he can talk real world results to you on what he's seeing. His car's making sick power at low boost.


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

MKIII_96 said:


> you can reuse your old lifters as long as they look good still.


Yup, if they are flat and do not have any signs abnormal wear on the top or bottom...you should be fine. When I pulled the head apart last night, it looks as if the ones from the AEB still look decent.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

AudiTToR said:


> Yup, if they are flat and do not have any signs abnormal wear on the top or bottom...you should be fine. When I pulled the head apart last night, it looks as if the ones from the AEB still look decent.



Thanks Nate. :beer:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

5857JB - Built Big Port head/intake manifold/80mm
Tube manifold
18psi

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5264803-Soon&p=73930174#post73930174


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

MKIII_96 said:


> you can reuse your old lifters as long as they look good still. the retainers will come with the springs. and fyi supertech springs have the softest spring rate of all 3 of those brands. so i wouldnt want to rev higher than 8200 8500 max. but for most people thats plenty high on a hydro head street car.


Careful reusing lifters, especially intake lifters if your cam has any visible wear. It will quickly wipe the surface hardening off, and dig away at the lifter surface. They can look "ok" and still be worn. 

In fact I would replace them if they have been run by unknown owners using questionable oil, since a lack of ZDDP turns your motor into a time bomb.


This stems from the EPA removing zddp from oil, it's 1/2 the amount that used to be in any energy star compliant oil.

Toss a bottle of lucas tb zinc + in with every oil change.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I'm still working to get it updated. If I can't I will sell it and start fresh. :beer:


kool :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> 5857JB - Built Big Port head/intake manifold/80mm
> Tube manifold
> 18psi
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5264803-Soon&p=73930174#post73930174


:beer:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

Budsdubbin said:


> Solid post.... Only hope I can hit that et on my setup.


yeah, my number 1 cylinder had 100psi in it, 2-4 had 150-155. ended up with a hung up exhaust valve, but for what it was it ran hard. it went 117.8 on pump gas, 24psi, same slicks.

every run i made was full interior, full tank of gas. i drove across the country and up and down the east coast several times with the kit and it was nothing but solid.



screwball said:


> Boosted ran a standard T3 Bottom Mount manifold.
> 
> The newer SS Bottom Mount Vbands look routed a little more aggressively w/ a more pronounced collector. It looks like high flow was high on the list, Arnold can certainly fill in the details.


yeah my T3 had a bit of a merge collector cast into it, but the manifold was completely unported as well. there was material i could have removed if i wanted to, but it performed well enough for me. if i could have 60'd the car better that a 1.9(needed some type of 2step/launch control, it was all or nothing boost wise) but with a 120 trap, it had low 11s in it.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Yes, I just joined 2004 and got a bottom mount setup and there is a mild collector in there. I've been driving a 91hp honda civic the last month so whatever power my car is making will feel like a sport bike when i get back into it.


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

screwball said:


> Yes, I just joined 2004 and got a bottom mount setup and there is a mild collector in there. I've been driving a 91hp honda civic the last month so whatever power my car is making will feel like a sport bike when i get back into it.




you drunk man?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

How many of you have put the head together yourselves?


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

im working putting mine together now


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

hootyburra said:


> How many of you have put the head together yourselves?


me and my pops put my sister head back together. AEB. Its not modded and everything used was OEM. Doesnt seem too hard as long as you have the correct tools.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> you drunk man?


Sounds like it lol



hootyburra said:


> How many of you have put the head together yourselves?


I haven't :laugh:

I use a local guy all the honda guys use. He charged me $140 for assembling the head, valve job, reaming the guides, decking the head and some other stuff I probably forgot. Can't beat that price and the time it frees up for me.




Dub-Nub said:


> Doesnt seem too hard *as long as you have the correct tools.*


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

wish I could find a connection like that


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## L.I.VW13 (Apr 9, 2006)

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

What Vets don't get sarcasm?:thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Have the stroker motor 9.0:1 compression
Need to find a clutch and flywheel setup, recommendations? I am leaning toward the fx400 but am still considering a double puck. 

I will be running the 5857, it's looking like CTS will be supplying it. 

Ordered an RMR intake mani and DLI motor mounts. 
I have both raxles
The transmission is fixed, need to decide on fluid. MT90?

I will be building the AEB head with schrick cams, 252/260
I am most like going to use supertech valvetrain components and stock intake valves. 
I will be replacing all of the lifters and seals. 

I see INA has what looks to be a great deal on the ferrea setup with timing belt kit. 

I am still torn between a manual timing tensioner setup.


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

without fail go manual tensioner. I had one hydro tensioner go kaput on my last year and it looks like another one died recently which had me jump 3 teeth although somehow I didn't dink any valves.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

screwball said:


> without fail go manual tensioner. I had one hydro tensioner go kaput on my last year and it looks like another one died recently which had me jump 3 teeth although somehow I didn't dink any valves.


Running a manual myself. Manual tensioner FTW


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

schwartzmagic said:


> Running a manual myself. Manual tensioner FTW


I converted and used a 16v stud. I have had no issues with it bending or etc in over a year of high rpm abuse.

I know a lot of high dollar timing kits are out there, but simple has worked fine for me. I run a good amount of belt tension as well.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

hootyburra said:


> I am still torn between a manual timing tensioner setup.


just get the manual tensioner setup. why risk 1000s of dollars on something that cost 50 bucks or less


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

screwball said:


> without fail go manual tensioner. I had one hydro tensioner go kaput on my last year and it looks like another one died recently which had me jump 3 teeth although somehow I didn't dink any valves.


^^^

yep, I'm thining the hydro is definetly not up to high RPM demands. I had one jump timing on me this year.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

TooLFan46n2 said:


> ^^^
> 
> yep, I'm thining the hydro is definetly not up to high RPM demands. I had one jump timing on me this year.


Yeah, I never had any issues like that before I did my build but read enough horror stories. I figured if I'm spending all this money on my head, why skimp out on a manual tensioner. I've had that approach with everything I could think of in my build. Thats probably one of the reasons why it's taken me so long to finish lol.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

you guys are making me paranoid w/ this manual tensioner stuff


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

screwball said:


> What Vets don't get sarcasm?:thumbup:


i was a '99 member


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Have been incredibly busy with this new job. 
Looks like I am going with maestro.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Have been incredibly busy with this new job.
> Looks like I am going with maestro.


lol. are you keeping the 630cc injectors? if you do and somehow get our idle issue worked out hook me up with the file lol


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

You on Maestro Tom? I can fwd you a bunch of the files I've got if you can load them.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

no 630's are out. 

either 870's or 1000's


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

What turbo Hooty?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> What turbo Hooty?


5857


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I believe I have an ADR head. 
Part numbers I found are: 
058 103 373 A, 03050994wz, 058 A 13, 058 351 E


The issue I am having is the guide pins on the block are not lining up with the holes on the head. 

The pins on the block are 10 3/4", the wholes on the head are at 9 3/4"
The head-gasket lines up fine with the holes on the head but it doesn't line up with the pins on the block...
I can get pics if that makes it easier. ...


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> You on Maestro Tom? I can fwd you a bunch of the files I've got if you can load them.


nope, i dont have maestro. but thanks for the offer :beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

WOW this thread turned into a trainwreck, and I wasn't even involved!:laugh:


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## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> The pins on the block are 10 3/4", the wholes on the head are at 9 3/4"
> The head-gasket lines up fine with the holes on the head but it doesn't line up with the pins on the block...


Now that is interesting. I really doubted the head was an ADR.

Any codes on the block?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

AudiTToR said:


> Now that is interesting. I really doubted the head was an ADR.
> 
> Any codes on the block?


The block is an 06A, that is stamped right on it. 

These are the part numbers I found on the head. 
058 103 373 A, 03050994wz, 058 A 13, 058 351 E


This info is from this page. 
ADR|1781cc Audi/Passat 20v n/a|058 103 021E|058 103 373 A

danster
13th December 10, 20:10
ADR 1.8 20v NA head part number is 058 103 373 A.
This is a large inlet port head with inlet port dimensions of 54 x 26mm. The small port head's inlet ports are 43 x 26mm. [:y:]

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-220746.html


Also found this thread with a pic
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/434844-engine-swap-from-APT-to-ADR


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Narbie ran an ADR head on his MK2. Issam or AAAAA care to chime in?


----------



## AudiTToR (Nov 27, 2008)

well the thing that surprises me though is that the head gasket matches the adr head, but came with the block from 034.

do me a favor write down the part number on that gasket if Javad hasnt already scratched it off.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I will next time I am out to work on it. 

I thought that was odd too. 

The pins in the block don't line up with the gasket or the head, but the gasket lines up with the head perfectly.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

will it be any problem to have the head drilled out so the guide pin works?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

waiting on the valvetrain parts opcorn:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Received a nice box of parts from CTS a few days ago. Haven't had much time to get anything done. 

Here is what I have
x Supertech valves 
x Supertech spring and retainer kit 
x OEM lifter set 
x Supertech valve seal kit
x Cam chain 
x 06A IE manual timing belt kit with water pump 
x 06A IE Dowel pinned crank gear
x ARP head bolt kit 
x 06A Crank bolt, OEM 


I still need to order 
software(maestro), 
injectors(ID 1000's ?), 
Turbo setup(Is it worth the extra money to upgrade to the water cooled 5857? With the hours I am working the cash for that won't be an issue.)
Cluthc(FX400 w steel flywheel)
ARP Flywheel bolts. 
FMIC Setup
Other misc fluids, etc


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

If you've got room I'd definitely do the CBB upgrade. They seem to be stronger turbos as there's a crapload of reading you can do on JB 5857 problems across the interwebz.


----------



## INA (Nov 16, 2005)

AudiTToR said:


> well the thing that surprises me though is that the head gasket matches the adr head, but came with the block from 034.
> 
> do me a favor write down the part number on that gasket if Javad hasnt already scratched it off.


Looked @ the post date but then saw we were in 2011 :laugh:
Yes all the big port heads are the same. ADR / AJL / AEB / AGU etc

Overland got a few of the ADR and AGU motors so I wouldnt be surprised if one of them ended up here.

which part # you need? For the head gasket?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

How much of a difference will I see with the 3076 vs the 5857? 
Is the 5857 that much better? Are all the issues sorted out?

I have read it is the same wheel as the 3076 with a 4mm larger exhaust


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

the JB turbos from precision are sketchy hooty. go with a garrett turbo if you can. there's nothing wrong with the wheels or housings, the seals/bearings are the problems. i would go with the gt3076r


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

The Garrett journals aren't that great either. I quick search will yield a ton of failures on this forum alone. I wouldn't buy anything in a j/b from anyone..


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> The Garrett journals aren't that great either. I quick search will yield a ton of failures on this forum alone. I wouldn't buy anything in a j/b from anyone..


we have been thru this once. Garrett/Borgwarner = Win. Rotomaster/Precison= sketchy bearings when it come to journal bearings


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Big_Tom said:


> we have been thru this once. Garrett/Borgwarner = Win. Rotomaster/Precison= sketchy bearings when it come to journal bearings


What turbo is on that awesome setup that pagparts is showing off in his new 'i got a new building' thread? It looks like there's no space for water provisions....so it's gotta be an oil-only turbo. Doesn't it take water cooling to do dbb (unless they're ceramic bearings that can take the heat?)


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> What turbo is on that awesome setup that pagparts is showing off in his new 'i got a new building' thread? It looks like there's no space for water provisions....so it's gotta be an oil-only turbo. Doesn't it take water cooling to do dbb (unless they're ceramic bearings that can take the heat?)


nope, there are oil only BB turbos out there. precision and com p turbo have them i believe. Garrett doesn't have that option


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

INA said:


> Overland got a few of the ADR and AGU motors so I wouldnt be surprised if one of them ended up here.


I'm a person who brought one over, though its since been sold. I remember seeing numbers on how the NA cams were different, but can't find the thread. Can you confirm data Issam, or is there no difference (as is the popular belief)?


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Stop messing around. This is what you want now call PagParts and give him your credit card info


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## Randomdub (Jun 16, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Stop messing around. This is what you want now call PagParts and give him your credit card info



 *droooool*


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Stop messing around. This is what you want now call PagParts and give him your credit card info


Richard what good is all that if you're parked?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Richard what good is all that if you're parked?
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


I'll run your sorry ass right now just tell me when and where you want it and I'll bring the lube


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I'll run your sorry ass right now just tell me when and where you want it and I'll bring the lube


:laugh:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> nope, there are oil only BB turbos out there. precision and com p turbo have them i believe. Garrett doesn't have that option


You're wrong, Garrett offers all their GT series turbos in journal bearing as well. Obviously you don't remember all the threads in id=27 about the journal Garrett's failing left and right a couple years ago. 

Lose the attitude Tom; you're not Aaron, and haven't earned the right..


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

screwball said:


> PMs are full hooty
> 
> 50 trim at 25+ w/ big port stuff and cams should bring you well over 400wheel.


my 50 .63 on AWP small port head and intake mani did 365 on a ****ty ass MBC @ 21


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You're wrong, Garrett offers all their GT series turbos in journal bearing as well. Obviously you don't remember all the threads in id=27 about the journal Garrett's failing left and right a couple years ago.
> 
> Lose the attitude Tom; you're not Aaron, and haven't earned the right..


LOL i don't know why u mad bro. i dont know how/why u took offense to whatever it was but thats on you. i never said anything about garrett GT journal bearing turbos, i know all about that line up. myself and groggory were discussing OIL ONLY BB turbos. as far as i know garrett does not offer OIL ONLY DBB turbos. are you saying im wrong about that?


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> LOL i don't know why u mad bro. i dont know how/why u took offense to whatever it was but thats on you. i never said anything about garrett GT journal bearing turbos, i know all about that line up. myself and groggory were discussing OIL ONLY BB turbos. as far as i know garrett does not offer OIL ONLY DBB turbos. are you saying im wrong about that?


Nope... misread it Tom.. my bad:beer:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:laugh:

still never saw any post about garrets failing. i know it hurts but let it go brah lol

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-dual-ball-bearing&highlight=precision+turbo


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> :laugh:
> 
> still never saw any post about garrets failing. i know it hurts but let it go brah lol
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...a-dual-ball-bearing&highlight=precision+turbo


You weren't exactly hanging in id=27 a whole lot 2-3 yrs ago


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You weren't exactly hanging in id=27 a whole lot 2-3 yrs ago


i had two 3071R failures.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

boosted b5 said:


> i had two 3071R failures.


I think it's safe to say that you didn't treat them with much respect B. :laugh:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> I think it's safe to say that you didn't treat them with much respect B. :laugh:


always had clean oil in them and adequate time to get up to operating temps. but i did run the car hard. lots of leaded fuel and high boost.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You weren't exactly hanging in id=27 a whole lot 2-3 yrs ago


i joined in 2007! what r u talkin about? i see ur still hangin on lol


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> i joined in 2007! what r u talkin about? i see ur still hangin on lol


Meh.. This scene is like a bad case of AIDS. You're never going to get rid of it..


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I'll run your sorry ass right now just tell me when and where you want it and I'll bring the lube


Didn't know you were into men.

But anyways, you're seriously delusional. How he hell are you gonna run anyone when you're running no more boost than your little TiAL wastegate dictates. You seriously need to get off that sh!t you've been smoking if you think you can hang. What happened to you today when I called you out? How many public call outs do I need to make before I park that sorry POS. :laugh:

opcorn:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Found a great deal on a Pag Kit. w 3076. I can always swap turbos down the road

Looking like it will be the way to go.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Can't go wrong with that turbo or that kit. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Found a great deal on a Pag Kit. w 3076. I can always swap turbos down the road
> 
> Looking like it will be the way to go.





schwartzmagic said:


> Can't go wrong with that turbo or that kit.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


this :thumbup:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> Found a great deal on a Pag Kit. w 3076. I can always swap turbos down the road
> 
> Looking like it will be the way to go.


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

That Vband kit he's selling is pretty sweet. Good luck with it all Hooty, I'm super happy w/ my PAG setup over the ATP stuff.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

schwartzmagic said:


> Didn't know you were into men.
> 
> But anyways, you're seriously delusional. How he hell are you gonna run anyone when you're running no more boost than your little TiAL wastegate dictates. You seriously need to get off that sh!t you've been smoking if you think you can hang. What happened to you today when I called you out? How many public call outs do I need to make before I park that sorry POS. :laugh:
> 
> opcorn:


i run more boost than you, my boost is dictated by right foot & exhaust gases... i lack a wastegate or boost controller  :sly: :beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The kit that is for sale is about a year old. Never used, the build never got finished. 

I see Arnold has some new manifolds? What is the difference between the new and the old?


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## MissUnderstood (Nov 9, 2011)

Killer build! Train wreck of a thread tho


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> The kit that is for sale is about a year old. Never used, the build never got finished.
> 
> I see Arnold has some new manifolds? What is the difference between the new and the old?




The new V-Band stainless manifolds are stainless castings, and flow a bit better with a much better collector design cast in.

The old v-band manifolds are iron, with a better collector and routing of gassees than the bottom mount T3/T25 manifolds.


The bottom mount T3 manifold flows better than the ATP manifold.


I've had one of every setup minus the stainless now. Arnold is stopping with the bottom mount T3 stuff, and is probably sticking with the stainless v-band only manifolds. It makes sense to me as having eleventy manifolds is a pain.

Really, you can not go wrong with any of them. If for some reason any of them crack, Arnold is skilled enough to use some super special nickel filler rod to fix them perfect. You can weld cast iron if you are good, and he is. 

The 3076 is a great turbo. If the entire kit is unused, i'd simply make sure all surfaces on the manifold/turbine are machined perfectly flat, go without any gaskets and use a skim coat of anti-seize 2000 paste when putting it all together.

I have a pagparts ATP clone manifold on my old GTi the new owner daily drives still to this day, with a T31 housing on a 3071 no gaskets.


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## Dub-Nub (Sep 27, 2005)

Here is PAG log manifold on a 3071


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

If the kit's unused there's no need to machine anything, it all leaves freshly surfaced from Arnold.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

screwball said:


> If the kit's unused there's no need to machine anything, it all leaves freshly surfaced from Arnold.


Trust but verify, you never know what has happened to these unused components. A moderate drop can take care of that. 

I have an "unused" v-band manifold that was slightly off on the head side, not enough to leak or really complain about unless your a perfectionist.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

theswoleguy said:


> i run more boost than you, my boost is dictated by right foot & exhaust gases... i lack a wastegate or boost controller  :sly: :beer:


:banghead: lol


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Pic of the said kit


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Stop messing around. This is what you want now call PagParts and give him your credit card info


i might just show up at pagparts one day with a brown paper bag $$$ 



hootyburra said:


> Pic of the said kit


hooty, run that kit as is. no need to check for tolerances, etc. it looks immaculate :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

so buy the old kit for 3400 with 870's and inline pump or spend the extra cash and get the new pag kit with the 5857?:screwy:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> so buy the old kit for 3400 with 870's and inline pump or spend the extra cash and get the new pag kit with the 5857?:screwy:


i think you'll be much happier w/ the 3076


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> i think you'll be much happier w/ the 3076


x2


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Sorry guys...



Big_Tom said:


> i think you'll be much happier w/ the 3076





formerly silveratljetta said:


> x2


:facepalm:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:what:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> :what:


lol


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

5857 is all hype. I walked schwartzmagic with a 3076 and he has a 5857


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> 5857 is all hype. I walked schwartzmagic with a 3076 and he has a 5857


i think it's all hype too bro. garrett is where it's at in the turbo game :thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> 5857 is all hype. I walked schwartzmagic with a 3076 and he has a 5857


Wow..... only in your dreams noob. Let's run at Fixxfest. Im ready to roll.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

schwartzmagic said:


> wow..... Only in your dreams noob. Let's run at fixxfest. Im ready to roll.
> 
> Sent from my mb860 using tapatalk



ohhhhhh snapppppppp


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> 5857 is all hype. I walked schwartzmagic with a 3076 and he has a 5857


I got a Precision that'll walk it out on that 3076 too :wave:


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Schit just got realopcorn:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

The odds shift slightly when you factor in the Precision reliability issues. :laugh:


Speaking of I can't wait for my journal bearing longitudinal 5857 setup to get here and compliment the FWD 3076 car.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

^^^^ dude you run game like Johnny Holmes in 79'


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Dropped everything off at the machine shop yesterday.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Dropped everything off at the machine shop yesterday.


:thumbup:


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

:beer: its a great feeling when you get your stuff back from the machine shop 

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Head should be done by weeks end eace:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Just got all my hardware back from being flattened, and i'm in fresh turbo parts heaven.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Head should be done by weeks end eace:


:beer:


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

gdoggmoney said:


> Just got all my hardware back from being flattened, and i'm in fresh turbo parts heaven.


Thats the best, my fuel trims jumped major numbers just going from leaking ATP stuff to non leaking PAG stuff. It was borderline stupid how much adjusting I'd been doing trying to compensate for exhaust leaks.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

screwball said:


> Thats the best, my fuel trims jumped major numbers just going from leaking ATP stuff to non leaking PAG stuff. It was borderline stupid how much adjusting I'd been doing trying to compensate for exhaust leaks.


Yep, and did it still pass a seafoam test too while leaking? I've had cars that do that. Oh leak no leaks visually...... But you come to a stop after a hard run and you have idle stumbles, and etc....

Once it all cools down and contracts..... HEY IT IDLES BETTER!!! IM CRAZY!!!!! 


:laugh:

In my case, having a 3 year old with leukemia, carbon monoxide poisoning is extremely easy for her to get with low red cell volume....... less oxygen transfer ability already. 

I had brand new hardware flattened just because. The PAG stuff was really good.


Brand new Garrett turbine housing? Warped crazy from the factory! Both the 4 bolt outlet and turbine inlet were so far off, it would have leaked or warped and started leaking.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Brand new Garrett turbine housing? Warped crazy from the factory! Both the 4 bolt outlet and turbine inlet were so far off, it would have leaked or warped and started leaking.


i could never understand how people buy turbo kits and run them w/ no gaskets :screwy: most people dont take the extra step and have new parts machined, they just throw them on and expect there to be no leaks. Why on earth would you not at least use gaskets? I had hella exhaust leaks in my CTS kit until I installed a t3 4 bolt gasket and t3 inlet gasket


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Big_Tom said:


> i could never understand how people buy turbo kits and run them w/ no gaskets :screwy: most people dont take the extra step and have new parts machined, they just throw them on and expect there to be no leaks. Why on earth would you not at least use gaskets? I had hella exhaust leaks in my CTS kit until I installed a t3 4 bolt gasket and t3 inlet gasket


I think that there are a lot of bad gaskets out there. People sometimes use those bad gaskets not knowing they're bad. They have a bad experience, share it, and people get a bad taste in their mouths for gaskets in general. So in turn, they just go gasket-less.

I am a firm believer in good gaskets. I am also a firm believer that most surfaces have defects. Gaskets pick up the slack on those defects and provide a thermal insulator on two different types of metals.

Example for me...the APR supplied GT flange gasket failed me a couple times and caused all sorts of problems. So what I did was I moved to an OEM Nissan GT flange gasket from an old SR20 motor and it is perfect. Also, I moved away from common exhaust studs and called ARP and had some good studs ordered instead.

These turbos go through some extreme temp cycling so sometimes you have to do something different to make it work.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

I agree there are a lot of bad gaskets out there. thats why i made this post 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5331419-Everybody-W-a-CTS-Turbo-Kit


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Never met a gasket that could last at 25psi or so on one of these motors. Tried them after machining things flat, and using even torque patterns in X for 4 bolt or a magical star pattern for multibolt surfaces........


Basically, you either go over the limits or hit them in some way I think. Once that excessive expansion happens, and combustion effects begin cutting/wearing the gasket, it is gone from then on.


Ever since I have had every mating surface flattened (That includes my brand new in box turbine housing that has never seen use) on my turbocharged cars, I have 0 issues.

Think residual stress from being a few thou off, torquing to spec, expansion and contraction of heat combined with bolting down a residually stressed long thing subject to thousands of degrees, and pressure, now it wants to walk with the stress..... HELLO CRACKS and casting flash turning into cracks. Old muscle head knowledge, casting flash/lines are were cracks start. Hence old school guys would deburr, knock casting flash and lines out of things.

I did it to my turbine housing, and my brand new preicision 5857 v-band turbine housing has some flash in it and lines to be carefully knocked away.


I like to take said cars out for 30+ second high boost runs on the highway, or sometimes when I travel to mexico, I'll keep it floored for 5-10minutes then stop. Drive normal, etc.


My 2 cents. Probably worthless.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ i feel u G. all the other gaskets i have seen were paper or layered "other materials". the one i ordered is 1 pc of steel. to be honest the $hit is almost like a glange  it has seen 25 psi more than a few times and i did hit 30 psi once:facepalm: believe me it's there to stay. as a matter of fact i have has these same type of gaskets on my tial 38mm wastegate since day 1 of BT. bolts have not loosened, and they dont leak. when i get some extra cash i might just buy one and send it to you


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ i feel u G. all the other gaskets i have seen were paper or layered "other materials". the one i ordered is 1 pc of steel. to be honest the $hit is almost like a glange  it has seen 25 psi more than a few times and i did hit 30 psi once:facepalm: believe me it's there to stay. as a matter of fact i have has these same type of gaskets on my tial 38mm wastegate since day 1 of BT. bolts have not loosened, and they dont leak. when i get some extra cash i might just buy one and send it to you


No thanks sir. I'm barebacking my turbo hardware.

I burned a tial stainless gasket too. Maybe that flange was out? it sealed gasketless. I went v-band after and then gasketless turbine inlet so I did not worry. 

We will see how a flat 4 bolt goes on leakage. The car I did with the pagparts log manifold, pre bottom mount is still going fine with no gasket for the new owner. That was a v-band turbine to downpipe. 

I skim coat it all with 2k antiseize, sensor safe.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Good info about the gaskets :beer:

Still can't decide between the 3076 and 5857:banghead: Spool characteristics on a stroker with schrick cams? 

Part of me wants to order the limited slip now, part want's to wait till next season


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Good info about the gaskets :beer:
> 
> Still can't decide between the 3076 and 5857:banghead: Spool characteristics on a stroker with schrick cams?
> 
> Part of me wants to order the limited slip now, part want's to wait till next season


just go with a 6766CEA and you will have plenty of room to grow


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## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> Good info about the gaskets :beer:
> 
> Still can't decide between the 3076 and 5857:banghead: Spool characteristics on a stroker with schrick cams?
> 
> Part of me wants to order the limited slip now, part want's to wait till next season


3076r will spool 2-300 rpm's faster then the 5857... 5857 will make a bit more power. The new 5858 CEA billet should be interesting....


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Good info about the gaskets :beer:
> 
> Still can't decide between the 3076 and 5857:banghead: Spool characteristics on a stroker with schrick cams?
> 
> Part of me wants to order the limited slip now, part want's to wait till next season


3076r FTW hooty! don't risk more problems by going with a precision turbo. yes, they look nice and the price is good, but the seals are sketchy


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> 3076r FTW hooty! don't risk more problems by going with a precision turbo. yes, they look nice and the price is good, but the seals are sketchy


Im going to beg to differ with you here. I've had my CBB PTE 5857 for well over a year now with no issues. From what I understand it is the journal bearing ones that MAY have issues.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Im going to beg to differ with you here. I've had my CBB PTE 5857 for well over a year now with no issues. From what I understand it is the journal bearing ones that MAY have issues.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


The only problem with schwartzmagic's precision turbo is the driver doesn't have the cajones to run anyone with it


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Im going to beg to differ with you here. I've had my CBB PTE 5857 for well over a year now with no issues. From what I understand it is the journal bearing ones that MAY have issues.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


i will say most if not all the problems i way were with journal bearings :thumbup:



formerly silveratljetta said:


> The only problem with schwartzmagic's precision turbo is the driver doesn't have the cajones to run anyone with it


:laugh:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> The only problem with schwartzmagic's precision turbo is the driver doesn't have the cajones to run anyone with it


You're such a clown. Go play with your Barbie dolls you little girlie man. Lemme know when you're ready to run.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Jeez. Why not just run already?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Jeez. Why not just run already?


today would be a good day too. it's dry and pretty cold out for your front mounts


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Jeez. Why not just run already?


He knows I am out of town right now. It's the only convenient time for him to step up to the plate


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

I'll jack the magic man's bucket and we'll run it


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> He knows I am out of town right now. It's the only convenient time for him to step up to the plate


Excuses is all im hearing.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

I'd talk some game but my cars are torn apart and im unsure when either will be running, let alone running with the DSS 2.9's and ready to beat on.


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

6766 CEA. man up. 2.0 IE street/strip cams, ID2000's, E85. twin 044 pumps. big balls. let them swing!


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ sounds like a whole lotta lag and then a whole lotta wheel spin :laugh:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ sounds like a whole lotta lag and then a whole lotta wheel spin :laugh:


sounds like you dont know what an NLR Technologies AMS 1000 and a MAC valve is then


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

5857 to 6766 is a huge difference.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

boosted b5 said:


> sounds like you dont know what an NLR Technologies AMS 1000 and a MAC valve is then


Might fix the wheelspin. Won't fix the lag


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Might fix the wheelspin. Won't fix the lag


:laugh: :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Alright I need a new cam chain tensioner. ...
AEB is non VVT, correct

I still have the harness for VVT... 

Question is, Do I order the replacement CCT w VVT from MJM, or run non VVT?
What is the part number for non vvt cct?

I just want to get this damn thing back together already:banghead: Machine shop has everything else done. Oh I also need a part number for cam cap screws, can't find them anywhere:banghead:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Alright I need a new cam chain tensioner. ...
> AEB is non VVT, correct
> 
> I still have the harness for VVT...
> ...


Don't you have your old VVT stuff from your AWP head? I just swapped my stuff over. Or were your motor and head always AEB?


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

you dont really need VVT unless you wanna do this stuff http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5116947-Who-is-using-VVT-to-make-power


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> you dont really need VVT unless you wanna do this stuff http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5116947-Who-is-using-VVT-to-make-power


:thumbup: i know you don't really need it, but can you simply leave it unplugged?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Alright I need a new cam chain tensioner. ...
> AEB is non VVT, correct
> 
> I still have the harness for VVT...
> ...


Are you running cams? My 3651's wont clear a vvt tensioner without grinding away at the tensioner. I went to put a VVT tensioner back into my 02 Jetta two nights ago, and ran into this. I ended up putting the AEB tensioner back in.

That thread had me convinced to do it.


Oh, you can remove your intake cam only and walk it up with the tensioner to get both out..... You need a soft careful hand to not bang it around on things, but it is possible and saves time over removing both


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## tirerub (Apr 29, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Alright I need a new cam chain tensioner. ...
> AEB is non VVT, correct
> 
> I still have the harness for VVT...
> ...


 Ecs sells the cam cap screws


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schrick cams, 252/260

Anyone have the part number for the non vvt?


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

gdoggmoney said:


> Might fix the wheelspin. Won't fix the lag


what is lag? put it in the correct gear and drive the car properly. problem solved.

come on now, you should know better.


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

all this talk of running...if only i were still in the DC area..could all meet in the middle so i could crush all of you


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> all this talk of running...if only i were still in the DC area..could all meet in the middle so i could crush all of you


LOLZ :laugh:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

boosted b5 said:


> what is lag? put it in the correct gear and drive the car properly. problem solved.
> 
> come on now, you should know better.





It's that thing that happens if you go from a roll and you are under vacuum, or you are not building boost off the line 


Do we need a call out and racing thread in this forum for grudge matches? I think so.......


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

gdoggmoney said:


> It's that thing that happens if you go from a roll and you are under vacuum, or you are not building boost off the line
> 
> 
> Do we need a call out and racing thread in this forum for grudge matches? I think so.......


i do not know what this lag is, i have never experienced it. i never bought a turbo and felt concerned with lag. i dont do roll races starting out of boost. i always started my races hard on the brakes building 24psi


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Did schit just get real? :sly:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

boosted b5 said:


> i do not know what this lag is, i have never experienced it. i never bought a turbo and felt concerned with lag. i dont do roll races starting out of boost. i always started my races hard on the brakes building 24psi


Hrmmm brake boost from a roll. Must try.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Hrmmm brake boost from a roll. Must try.


im not doing that to my brakes and drivetrain :wave:


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Big_Tom said:


> im not doing that to my brakes and drivetrain :wave:


C'mon everyone knows prematurely wearing out components is the best excuse for an upgrade. :laugh:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> im not doing that to my brakes and drivetrain :wave:


Can't be too much worse than dumping the clutch on 22-24" slicks while building boost via combustion at the turbine inlet (2step/antilag)

Plus awesome glowing brake rotors.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Can't be too much worse than dumping the clutch on 22-24" slicks while building boost via combustion at the turbine inlet (2step/antilag)
> 
> Plus awesome glowing brake rotors.


i dont do that either :facepalm: all that stuff is for the birds


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> i dont do that either :facepalm: all that stuff is for the birds


I have spare gearboxes, and a set of DSS 2.9 axles waiting to be returned for RMA then to be installed for those shenanigans. 

Oh and a nice organic/ferramic clutch with a single mass flywheel.

Come on, join us  It's really fun when it hooks up early on.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> I have spare gearboxes, and a set of DSS 2.9 axles waiting to be returned for RMA then to be installed for those shenanigans.
> 
> Oh and a nice organic/ferramic clutch with a single mass flywheel.
> 
> Come on, join us  It's really fun when it hooks up early on.


i'd rather have something AWD :thumbup:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> i'd rather have something AWD :thumbup:


That's why I bought the Tropic Green A4 1.8TQ with no sunroof.

Also why I went dss 2.9 and clutch/diff/spare boxes for the FWD Jetta


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> im not doing that to my brakes and drivetrain :wave:


Seriously? How often do you race people from a roll anyway? Its not gonna do sh!t. Now if you race people at some of the weekeday and weekend races like they do here in Miami then you might see some premature failures. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Seriously? How often do you race people from a roll anyway? Its not gonna do sh!t. Now if you race people at some of the weekeday and weekend races like they do here in Miami then you might see some premature failures.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


it's just not my style


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Brake boosting is the norm over here...


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> it's just not my style


Unfortunately if you don't brake boost here you loose races and you know that 1.8t Nevar lose so i'll it at that lol.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well this thread is going to **** like the dump I'm taking right now. 

The cam cap bolts are backordered. :banghead::banghead:

Should have all the parts Tuesday. New CCT non VVT; cam cap bolts, MT90, plugs, oil filter, fuel filter, PS fluid... 

Still need to decide where I want the PS tank. How many have ran it under the rain tray?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

im gonna probably relocate mine as well hooty.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ck-Coolant-Ball-EVAP-WS-Washer-Power-Steering


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

Big_Tom said:


> im gonna probably relocate mine as well hooty.
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ck-Coolant-Ball-EVAP-WS-Washer-Power-Steering


thats where im ghoing to be putting mine at. hardly any work to move it and theres a nice hole down there where you can still get to the cap... but i think you gotta make the hole a lil bigger


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> thats where im ghoing to be putting mine at. hardly any work to move it and theres a nice hole down there where you can still get to the cap... but i think you gotta make the hole a lil bigger


:beer: it's all good i'll "git er done"


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

That is where I originally wanted to put it. That metal is a bitch to get through. I trashed a lennox bimetal hole saw in seconds. 
Any tricks for making it bigger? 

I put a piece of scrap metal underneath and jacked it up with a floor jack 
to get the pilot hole started and it still trashed the bit
I have it sitting above the rain tray now.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

know anyone with a plasma cutter?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> know anyone with a plasma cutter?


:thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> That is where I originally wanted to put it. That metal is a bitch to get through. I trashed a lennox bimetal hole saw in seconds.
> Any tricks for making it bigger?
> 
> I put a piece of scrap metal underneath and jacked it up with a floor jack
> ...


i'm glad you let us/me know. :beer: i have to get better tools before i do the PS res relocation. I'll prob knock out the coolant ball and washer fluid bottle first


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Dropped the cam chain tensioner off yesterday, head was clean enough to eat off; forget to snap pics:banghead:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ lol ic:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*5858*

Going with the 5858 from CTS. .63ar? That's that I,m leaning towards. Restrictor or no? 
FX400 6puck


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Going with the 5858 from CTS. .63ar? That's that I,m leaning towards. Restrictor or no?
> FX400 6puck


def run a restrictor unless you want to be doing this over again. at least get the BB 5858


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

i would just go ball bearing. more durable and more streetable since theres less lag


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> i would just go ball bearing. more durable and more streetable since theres less lag


^^^^ not to mention everybody knows their journal bearings are sketchy :screwy:



DanA4 said:


> **** JB PTEs. I went through 3 of them in a insanely short amount of time. if you're going to get a PTE, do yourself a favor and just spend the money on a DBB CHRA.


ask this guy :facepalm:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> def run a restrictor unless you want to be doing this over again. at least get the BB 5858





MKIII_96 said:


> i would just go ball bearing. more durable and more streetable since theres less lag





Big_Tom said:


> ^^^^ not to mention everybody knows their journal bearings are sketchy :screwy:
> 
> 
> 
> ask this guy :facepalm:


Running a CBB For sure... :thumbup:

Setup should be sick.
Thanks everyone for the help and humor so far :beer:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Running a CBB For sure... :thumbup:
> 
> Setup should be sick.
> Thanks everyone for the help and humor so far :beer:


:beer:


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## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

why buy a turbo from a Canadian distributor, when there are PLENTY of US based Precision Turbo and Engine distributors.. US made, US bought, Shop with US companies


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> why buy a turbo from a Canadian distributor, when there are PLENTY of US based Precision Turbo and Engine distributors.. US made, US bought, Shop with US companies




Your driving a car that wasn't made in the US. You posted from a device that wasn't made in the US.

Clay and Nikk have been nothing but extremely helpful and cooperative.

We all have the right to shop with who we please. 

I appreciate the concern. 

What A/R would everyone reccomend?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Your driving a car that wasn't made in the US. You posted from a device that wasn't made in the US.
> 
> Clay and Nikk have been nothing but extremely helpful and cooperative.
> 
> ...


.63 :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

ordering today. :beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Your driving a car that wasn't made in the US. You posted from a device that wasn't made in the US.
> 
> Clay and Nikk have been nothing but extremely helpful and cooperative.
> 
> ...


.63 AR


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> ordering today. :beer:


:thumbup:


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> why buy a turbo from a Canadian distributor, when there are PLENTY of US based Precision Turbo and Engine distributors.. US made, US bought, Shop with US companies


:thumbup:

Unless of course they're a transplanted canadian then its okay lol

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Dropped the block off today. 
It is an o6a block. The guide pins do not line up with the head or head gasket... 
Anyone? One lines up fine the other is off


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

must be some kind of oddball block? you take the stuff to mapco?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Is it your weird big port head? AEB head went on my 06A fine no issues with dowels. Same with an AWP or AWW/ATW head i've put on.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> must be some kind of oddball block? you take the stuff to mapco?


 No I took it to Snyder's 


gdoggmoney said:


> Is it your weird big port head? AEB head went on my 06A fine no issues with dowels. Same with an AWP or AWW/ATW head i've put on.


 I think it's an ADR but I'm not positive. The head gasket matches the head though. 

The block has 06A stamped right on it.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> No I took it to Snyder's
> 
> 
> I think it's an ADR but I'm not positive. The head gasket matches the head though.
> ...


 Why is your block half open deck? WTF? 


That is weird, look at it, I've never seen anything like that....... What code is your old head/motor?!?!?


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

ps. I have a bag of cam cap bolts.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The head is all together. So I don't need the bolts. :thumbup: 

What do you mean by half open deck?? 

The old motor and head was AWP and 06a. from a 337. 

The block was built by 034.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Going with the 3076*

I sent the first payment. 
I am going with the 3076R From CTS. 

Pics of the head 


__
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__
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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Your deck of the block, look at the coolant/oil passages and headbolt holes... they are recessed. 


I don't remember seeing this on my AWW block, 058 block or any other 1.8T stateside that had this..... 


Did your 337 have a factory motor put into it? Because i once had a brand new 00 golf that received an AEB head under warranty, the dealer put the smallport intake and everything back onto it...... 


IT's been known to happen, euro motors come over rebuilt and stuffed into US cars under warranty etc. 


Someone correct me if im wrong, blind etc. but that looks like half open deck or something....


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

See: 











Yours: 











This is why your dowel pins wont line up. Look at this and the dowel locations compared to your block........... 



Pics of the old head and headgasket now plz.....


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Make sure your tune is for a solid non VVT tensioner, the VVT tensioner has more cam retard without a signal applied..... 


I just went for a while trying to figure out problems with my 3076R AWP 2002 Jetta. I moved to a non VVT module, and the cam timing was advanced. The car started odd, always had a stutter/lag on/off throttle. 

I put the VVT tensioner in last night, night and day difference in running/driving/idle smoothness. Even the sound of the motor is different.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

How can you tell if your CCT is VVT or Non-VVT? 

Thanks


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

gdoggmoney said:


> Why is your block half open deck? WTF?
> 
> 
> That is weird, look at it, I've never seen anything like that....... What code is your old head/motor?!?!?


 Edit: 06a tdi ?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I sent the first payment.
> I am going with the 3076R From CTS.


 :thumbup::beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Old motor is still assembled. It is an awp head. 06a block from an 02 337 gti. 
Will the new block be an issue or can the pin be pulled and redrilled? 
Block was assembled by 034


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Old motor is still assembled. It is an awp head. 06a block from an 02 337 gti.
> Will the new block be an issue or can the pin be pulled and redrilled?
> Block was assembled by 034


 Well, I am by no means an engineer for VW, but your missing a bunch of surface the headgasket should go to.... even though you have a ring. 

That is not normal, VW has made open deck blocks 1.8T I have heard, and aluminum blocks overseas. 

Sure they did not give you a TDi motor or something from the yard? That part number needs to be looked up in ETKA to see applications. 

Get the full 06A # of the back of the new block and any other markings. The dowel pin is no big deal, the lack of surface area, potentially different oil passages may be a big deal.


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> How can you tell if your CCT is VVT or Non-VVT?
> 
> Thanks


 Anybody. I have an Aeb on an 06a and I just wanna make sure I used the Aeb cct


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Well, I am by no means an engineer for VW, but your missing a bunch of surface the headgasket should go to.... even though you have a ring.
> 
> That is not normal, VW has made open deck blocks 1.8T I have heard, and aluminum blocks overseas.
> 
> ...


 I wil go down to the machine shop tomorrow and get all the info I can


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

derekb727 said:


> Anybody. I have an Aeb on an 06a and I just wanna make sure I used the Aeb cct


 D, the VVT Tensioner has a black solenoid on the side with a plug on it. The non VVT tensioners are flush with the side of the head :thumbup:


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

16plus4v said:


> D, the VVT Tensioner has a black solenoid on the side with a plug on it. The non VVT tensioners are flush with the side of the head :thumbup:


 Thank you. That was my thoughts. Thanks for the confirmation.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Gdog here is a better picture


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

alh block? http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/2777112371.html


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

Thats the one.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

So will things be ok?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

screwball said:


> alh block? http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/2777112371.html


 Win. Maybe a special headgasket is required? Or a standard is fine and theres enough there. 

New one for me, using a TDi block.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> So will things be ok?


 Talk to Isaam (INA) or Pete (Integrated) Simon-says, etc. Talk to other people who sell internals and have built more motors than we can think of. 

I have no idea, and it would suck to learn that thinking over a stock headgasket sounds ok and then some catastrophe happens and you did not know better.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Talk to Isaam (INA) or Pete (Integrated) Simon-says, etc. Talk to other people who sell internals and have built more motors than we can think of.
> 
> I have no idea, and it would suck to learn that thinking over a stock headgasket sounds ok and then some catastrophe happens and you did not know better.


 I am really thinking it is not a TDI block. 
It was built with 144mm pistons not the 159mm in the ALH.. .


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I am positive it is not a TDI block. 

The M10 head bolts thread right in. The rods are 144mm. 

Numbers off the block are 
06A021C 
04A01 
31 
MEXICO 

Off the head. 
058 103 373 A 
Germany H4 WWO RAH 
03050494W2


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

APX	2000 Audi TT 225 bhp engine. 9:0 comp	06A 103 021 C 
AUM (intl water pump) 06A 021C (Mexico) 06A 103 021 C 
(intl water pump)	1781cc 20v	06A 103 021 C 
BAM	2002 TT cab, '04 SEAT LCR	06A 103 021 C


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

If 034 built the bottom end, why don't you call them. 

I'm sure INA has listed what's necessary to make this work, he has a huge knowledgebase on here or you could probably ask him directly.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

There you go. Interesting the differences.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Will call monday


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## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

16plus4v said:


> D, the VVT Tensioner has a black solenoid on the side with a plug on it. The non VVT tensioners are flush with the side of the head :thumbup:


 ok, so i was thinking, if my car is made for VVT and I dont have VVT and the plug is just there untouched what do i need to do??


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> ok, so i was thinking, if my car is made for VVT and I dont have VVT and the plug is just there untouched what do i need to do??


 Put a resistor on it


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Same thing I will be doing is resistoring it off and tuning it out in maestro. 

I'm going to upload pics of the block and head


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Any other thoughts on the block


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Have a call into 034. Hoping to here back today.


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

If you look at 034's time attack 2.2L it appears that the block they used is very similar to this one you have here. Hrmm


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

according to this website it seems like this is some kind of modification you can have done or something http://www.eurospecsport.com/products/engines/4c-5v.htm


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...plete-STEP-BY-STEP-Performance-Build-Up/page6


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## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

screwball said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...plete-STEP-BY-STEP-Performance-Build-Up/page6


 That's an oldie.. 

ALH Tall Deck Block 










From here... 

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...otorsport-Time-Attack-B5-Build-Thread-Year-4?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...plete-STEP-BY-STEP-Performance-Build-Up/page6


 Read through that thread and didn't see anything about the guide pins... Am I missing it?


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Read through that thread and didn't see anything about the guide pins... Am I missing it?


 Pull it out. Done.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

If I were you I'd call Issam, order a head gasket from the guy and ask him what you need.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Already have the HG. The machine shop is leary on just pulling it... he has been many vw motors in his day. His whole family drives them


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Already have the HG. The machine shop is leary on just pulling it... he has been many vw motors in his day. His whole family drives them


 I would leave the guide pins and get the proper head gasket for the motor


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

That wasn't the point, it was to buy something from the guy and pick his brain about your best course of action.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> That wasn't the point, it was to buy something from the guy and pick his brain about your best course of action.


 LOL


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

The hole is in the wrong spot in the head. You can't just throw a headgasket on it and go. The head wont sit flush with a dowel pin poking into it now will it? 


All they are there for is to ensure proper alignment. make sure it does not move. it's not that hard, i've swapped heads on cars without guide pins.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I would leave the guide pins and get the proper head gasket for the motor


 It is the head and head gasket that doesn't line up. 
I'm uploading pics. 




screwball said:


> That wasn't the point, it was to buy something from the guy and pick his brain about your best course of action.


 :beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Uhh that deck rust is old right??? Earlier pics show a nice clean deck.. rust is bad, it keeps rusting and the force of rust inbetween two surfaces as it grows is quite high...


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Uhh that deck rust is old right??? Earlier pics show a nice clean deck.. rust is bad, it keeps rusting and the force of rust inbetween two surfaces as it grows is quite high...


 Yea it is all clean...


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

How many have actually pulled the guide pin and aligned the head successfully? 
One pin would line up fine. 
I am using bolts not studs.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i know nothing about vw blocks, but if that pin is only used for guidance pulling it should not really be a problem. it might be a bitch to line up, but if u get all the bolts started before you fully tighten them you should still be able to align it properly torque it down


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> How many have actually pulled the guide pin and aligned the head successfully?
> One pin would line up fine.
> I am using bolts not studs.


 Many people have installed many cylinders heads without guide pins since the internal combustion engine has been invented. It's not that hard. Use two people. hand on the back of the block to keep the gasket from walking or a piece of tape lay head down gently, insert a bolt in the back corner where the dowel pin is missing. 

Bam you now have a bolt acting to line all up, and the bolt holes are so tight theres no misalignment or moving. 

Not terribly difficult.


----------



## Twopnt016v (Jul 5, 2009)

You can also take 2 head bolts and cut the head off and slot the end for a flat head screw driver. Screw them in by hand and use them as alignment pins. Then just unscrew them with a flat head and remove with a magnet. I saw a ARP box...if those are studs and not bolts it will do the same thing...


----------



## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

Use head studs...No need for guide pins


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

16plus4v said:


> Use head studs...No need for guide pins


 ^^^^^what Dylan said:thumbup::thumbup:

I personally wouldn't even consider using bolts; because I wouldn't trust that they were ever torqued properly. A little bit of anything in those holes, and they're not gonna torque right.


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

I just put my head on last night. Here is the setup to help you follow 

Bored to 83.5 mm and stroked with ARP head studs 

Okay. Last time input the head on i didn't use the dowel pins(don't remember knowin that I didn't) Worked fine didn't blow up didnt notice any adverse effects. 

I went to put my AEB on last night with all the new goodies. The ARP studs are already in so I slide the big bore HG on a notice that there is alot of movement. The HG is just sloppy and can move around and overlaps the oil galleys and part of the cylinder. So I was like what's wrong and realized the dowel pins had gone missing. So I took some out of a spare block and put them on my block. So after that it lined up perfect not hangover any holes or anything. 

So after that stupid long story: I'd recommend a way to get the dowel pins or something. Because I know I don want to Tq my head down with the HG hanging over into the cylinder or the oil gallies. 

Hope that helps a little


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

derekb727 said:


> I just put my head on last night. Here is the setup to help you follow
> 
> Bored to 83.5 mm and stroked with ARP head studs
> 
> ...


 i agree with what you said, but is it impossible to line up the headgasket correctly without the pin?


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> i agree with what you said, but is it impossible to line up the headgasket correctly without the pin?


 How would you know if it was or wasn't after you set the head on it and torqued it down? 

There is no way to look....


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

well you could pull the pins out of the block and try using some double sided tape or regular scotch tap to hold it in place where the pins were on the block


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

derekb727 said:


> How would you know if it was or wasn't after you set the head on it and torqued it down?
> 
> There is no way to look....


Because you lift the head with one hand gently while you move the gasket a hair to get the headbolts in, which then line it up fine? 

There's like 0 play around the bolts/gasket. They make fine placeholders.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

gdoggmoney said:


> Because you lift the head with one hand gently while you move the gasket a hair to get the headbolts in, which then line it up fine?
> 
> There's like 0 play around the bolts/gasket. They make fine placeholders.


X2...

I've installed plenty of headgaskets without dowel pins..the head studs/ bolts line everything up fine.:thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Because you lift the head with one hand gently while you move the gasket a hair to get the headbolts in, which then line it up fine?
> 
> There's like 0 play around the bolts/gasket. They make fine placeholders.





dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> X2...
> 
> I've installed plenty of headgaskets without dowel pins..the head studs/ bolts line everything up fine.:thumbup:


x3, i really dont see what the issue is here


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I will go down to the machine shop and help him do it. 

He just doesn't want anything to come back on him something were to go wrong. 


Turbo kit should be together and shipped in two weeks. :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I will go down to the machine shop and help him do it.
> 
> He just doesn't want anything to come back on him something were to go wrong.
> 
> ...


:beer::thumbup:


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Well with my ARP head studs without dowel pins it moves around a good 1/8"

With dowel pins it all lines up perfect


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

derekb727 said:


> Well with my ARP head studs without dowel pins it moves around a good 1/8"
> 
> With dowel pins it all lines up perfect


Really??? Maybe it's the arp studs... 

Either way, you can center it. Get creative. Leave the one dowel that fits there, or have the machine shop put another dowel in the proper location for the 20v head.



With 1 dowel, you can lift the head, wigle it into place and slip a bolt through.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

correct me if im wrong but the AEB/058 block uses 11mm head bolts and the AWP/06A uses 10mm bolts. putting the AEB head on the 06A block will leave about 1mm of play in the bolt holes in the head right?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> correct me if im wrong but the AEB/058 block uses 11mm head bolts and the AWP/06A uses 10mm bolts. putting the AEB head on the 06A block will leave about 1mm of play in the bolt holes in the head right?


i think i've read about this :thumbup: I think it was Harry Sax schoolin somebody else on AEB stuff, don't remember what thread tho


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> correct me if im wrong but the AEB/058 block uses 11mm head bolts and the AWP/06A uses 10mm bolts. putting the AEB head on the 06A block will leave about 1mm of play in the bolt holes in the head right?


You right!!! 

The threads in a 06a are 10mm so when you put an AEB head on an 06a block there will be some space in the bores of the cylinder head for the studs/bolts. But where are you going with this ? Lol


----------



## derekb727 (Dec 22, 2007)

Another great reason why the dowel pins are needed!!!


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

Have a machine shop put in the pin. Doing it without is silly. The heads will accept an 11mm bolt with room to spare- with a 10mm stud / bolt there is room for considerable misalignment.

They will need to measure the location of the pin hole off the cylinder head and transfer & drill it on the block. 

Anything less is a hack job. :screwy:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Have a machine shop put in the pin. Doing it without is silly. The heads will accept an 11mm bolt with room to spare- with a 10mm stud / bolt there is room for considerable misalignment.
> 
> They will need to measure the location of the pin hole off the cylinder head and transfer & drill it on the block.
> 
> Anything less is a hack job. :screwy:


This is exactly what they want to do. 
The part that stinks is the block is completely assembled. 

Pete, have you seen this issue before?


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> This is exactly what they want to do.
> The part that stinks is the block is completely assembled.
> 
> Pete, have you seen this issue before?


Why would you need to disassemble a block to put a dowel pin in? You mark the location, carve a hole (they can tape over the rest of the deck to keep shavings out)pop a dowel in, done.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

pin will pulled and relocated.
turbo kit, clutch, intercooler, software/fueling ordered


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> pin will pulled and relocated.
> turbo kit, clutch, intercooler, software/fueling ordered


:thumbup::beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Turbo kit should ship out this week. 

Did some work with the die grinder and enlarged the hole to relocate the power steering tank. 

Trying to take pics as I go


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Turbo kit will be here Friday. TWo big boxes


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Turbo kit will be here Friday. TWo big boxes


:beer:


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

It's funny. All of the EMUSA kits are coming off, name brand going on. 

I wish I had more knowledge and car money, I would have went your route here. Just read through, good luck with everything. Been about a year since I drove mine


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Zneith said:


> It's funny. All of the EMUSA kits are coming off, name brand going on.
> 
> I wish I had more knowledge and car money, I would have went your route here. Just read through, good luck with everything. Been about a year since I drove mine


^^^ yup. only down time since going BT my car has seen was the timing belt and water pump  That was 1 day


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

Eh I wanted it the budget way and no one could tell me different. Whelp, I've learnt the hard way in the past, and man does paying twice suck. Glad to see the OP is ripping the old stuff off


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ :beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

counting down the days. 

There will be pics. 

Need to fab up the bracket to hold the PS reservoir. 

Tom could you PM the part numbers of the parts used for the coolant delete? 

What PSI Cap?


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Zneith said:


> Eh I wanted it the budget way and no one could tell me different. Whelp, I've learnt the hard way in the past, and man does paying twice suck. Glad to see the OP is ripping the old stuff off


"Told you so" 


Like I said in the ebay thread, a lot of us tried shortcuts that logically make some sense, and still they were problematic and etc.

Sometimes you have to see it for yourself.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Hooty check out this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ad-w-supertech-valvetrain-IE-rods-AEB-pistons


Schwartzmagic has all the parts and method down for the coolant delete, including the moroso cap and inline filler neck.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> counting down the days.
> 
> There will be pics.
> 
> ...


you basically need a 1/2" to 3/8" coolant hose reducer, a moroso/csr/jegs filler neck (1.25" for the stock upper rad hose), and a 20 psi radiator cap. you can get a moroso cap or go to autozone likei did as ask for radiator cap part number 7020. i got the 1.5" filler neck not knowing it would be too big and had to use some pre bent 90 degree 1.5" rad hose. look in my thread, i have pictures of all the stuff if you care 2 see :beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Hooty check out this thread:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ad-w-supertech-valvetrain-IE-rods-AEB-pistons
> 
> ...





Big_Tom said:


> you basically need a 1/2" to 3/8" coolant hose reducer, a moroso/csr/jegs filler neck (1.25" for the stock upper rad hose), and a 20 psi radiator cap. you can get a moroso cap or go to autozone likei did as ask for radiator cap part number 7020. i got the 1.5" filler neck not knowing it would be too big and had to use some pre bent 90 degree 1.5" rad hose. look in my thread, i have pictures of all the stuff if you care 2 see :beer:


Thanks for the help guys. 
I had looked through them before. I will reference them again. 

Oh and this silly leap year thing means the turbo kit will be here today. 
Hopefully before work:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

gdoggmoney said:


> Hooty check out this thread:
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ad-w-supertech-valvetrain-IE-rods-AEB-pistons
> 
> ...


I was waiting for it

Oh well, I'm sure you just added another check on your "people that shouldve listened" list. :laugh::laugh:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I'll let the pics do the talking. 


















































































The guide pin has been relocated. Head lines up perfectly:thumbup::thumbup:

Turbo kit didn't come with any coolant lines? just the fittings


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Machine shop informed me the inside of the block seems very dirty from not being stored properly. The duct that was covering things is all over. I'm having him pull the brand new block apart and clean everything...


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

:thumbup: lookin good man. sux about having to pull the block apart tho.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Clutch just came in. 

All the markings say sachs...
Are they the same company?

I searched google images for fx400 and they all show clutch masters. 

So are sachs and clutch masters the same company?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Clutch just came in.
> 
> All the markings say sachs...
> Are they the same company?
> ...


what parts are sachs? my clutch kit is sachs. post pics if you can. maybe they sent u the wrong stuff. i doubt clutch masters uses sachs parts


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I thought 90% of pressure plates out there were from Sachs that are just modified?


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

screwball said:


> I thought 90% of pressure plates out there were from Sachs that are just modified?


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> what parts are sachs? my clutch kit is sachs. post pics if you can. maybe they sent u the wrong stuff. i doubt clutch masters uses sachs parts


Flywheel and pp say sachs. 
It shipped direct from CM and is in a CM box:screwy:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> Flywheel and pp say sachs.
> It shipped direct from CM and is in a CM box:screwy:


Dude.. These aftermarket clutch companies offer clutches for literally HUNDREDS of different applications. Why would they manufacture their own pressure plate stamping; if a different stamping is unnecessary? Thats reinventing the wheel at a substantial cost for no good reason.

The tension on the presssure plate fingers is what's important.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

All I'm saying is every picture I have seen of clutch masters has there sticker on the pp. This one does not. I'm assuming it's a clutch masters ...


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)




----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

I hated that sprung 6puck w/ a heavy PP. I wore mine out in about 20K also w/ just a stock turbo. You have to slip the crap out of it to engage smoothly.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


>


I just installed the exact same clutch + FW combo last month. Yes the pressure plate is stamped sachs but it has been modified by CM to hold whatever they claim like 600 hp or whatever. Install and enjoy :thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> what parts are sachs? my clutch kit is sachs. post pics if you can. maybe they sent u the wrong stuff. i doubt clutch masters uses sachs parts


Try again sir.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Try again sir.


^^^ u still mad lol :facepalm: let it go brah

hooty, what dubbinsinceuwereindiapers said makes sense. :thumbup:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Everybody mad


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ u still mad lol :facepalm: let it go brah
> 
> hooty, what dubbinsinceuwereindiapers said makes sense. :thumbup:


Mad about what? 

Idk why you keep running your mouth throwing bad info around, it's not helping anyone


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Mad about what?
> 
> Idk why you keep running your mouth throwing bad info around, it's not helping anyone


:laugh: this is what i'm talkin about. you are 100% pure hater right now


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Mad about what?
> 
> Idk why you keep running your mouth throwing bad info around, it's not helping anyone


What bad info did he throw around in this thread?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> What bad info did he throw around in this thread?


it all started here bro. still don't know why homeboy is [email protected], but honestly fawk em and his couch

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5605638-3071r-Low-Boost-Dynos-Numbers


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> What bad info did he throw around in this thread?





Big_Tom said:


> what parts are sachs? my clutch kit is sachs. post pics if you can. maybe they sent u the wrong stuff. i doubt clutch masters uses sachs parts


:facepalm:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> :facepalm:


:facepalm: so what? its not like i said "HOOTY I AM 100% SURE CLUTCHMASTERS DOES NOT USE SACHS PARTS, THEY SENT U THE WRONG PARTS. BOX IT UP AND SEND IT BACK NOW". 

you are just being a b*tch and trying to make something out of nothing. :wave:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

also, just because you don't agree with what i say does not make it "bad info". don't be ignorant


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> :facepalm:


Haha! Missed that:thumbup:

Ur still trolling tho







Big_Tom said:


> :facepalm: so what? its not like i said "HOOTY I AM 100% SURE CLUTCHMASTERS DOES NOT USE SACHS PARTS, THEY SENT U THE WRONG PARTS. BOX IT UP AND SEND IT BACK NOW".
> 
> you are just being a b*tch and trying to make something out of nothing. :wave:


I dunno.. Homeboy is definitely being a douche, but you kinda own this one buddy


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^:laugh::beer:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> also, just because you don't agree with what i say does not make it "bad info". don't be ignorant


Why would I agree with what you say if I know it is 100% incorrect 


Clutchmasters and most other companies use modified sachs pressure plates. End of discussion.

My point is that sometimes it's a better idea to wait for someone who knows the answer rather than spitting out misinformation. The name calling and hating can be taken to PMs if you would like


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> The name calling and hating can be taken to PMs if you would like


Why don't you take your own advice? Its obvious that you're trolling Tom; your above comment doesn't somehow negate your trolling, and somehow give you the moral 'high road" ..

Just sayin..


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Why would I agree with what you say if I know it is 100% incorrect
> 
> 
> Clutchmasters and most other companies use modified sachs pressure plates. End of discussion.
> ...


 :facepalm: on so many levels. with that being said, :wave: l8r dude you are literally not worth the time to PM back and forth


----------



## Zneith (Jan 4, 2010)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Why would I agree with what you say if I know it is 100% incorrect
> 
> 
> Clutchmasters and most other companies use modified sachs pressure plates. End of discussion.
> ...


Dude it was a vortex comment.... even if it was misinformation, a very respectful correct response would be more than acceptable... Being a douche isnt going to get you anywhere just saying.... 

Arguing on the interwebs is a waste of time:bs:


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Zneith said:


> Dude it was a vortex comment.... even if it was misinformation, a very respectful correct response would be more than acceptable... Being a douche isnt going to get you anywhere just saying....
> 
> Arguing on the interwebs is a waste of time:bs:


He's a douche in real life. I know him personally. Lol

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> He's a douche in real life. I know him personally. Lol
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


:laugh:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> He's a douche in real life. I know him personally. Lol
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


Admittedly I am :laugh:

I love you too Video :heart:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Admittedly I am :laugh:
> 
> I love you too Video :heart:


Me too:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well I had the machine shop pull the block apart to take care of the surface rust on the walls and clean everything out. 

Should have seen the crap in the pan. 

Here are some pics.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ that block looks rdy to go now :beer:


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

Are those the b4 pics or the after pics?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> Are those the b4 pics or the after pics?


they are the before pics. 

He had just started to tear it down when I got there. 

Can anyone confirm that is the 2L FSI crank?


----------



## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

Look at the part number on the crank and compare it to an fsi crank:thumbup:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> they are the before pics.
> 
> He had just started to tear it down when I got there.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that is the 2L FSI crank?


not sure about the crank, but where's al this surface rust supposed to be at?


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

hootyburra said:


> Can anyone confirm that is the 2L FSI crank?


The crank trigger wheel looks way different than the used FSI crank I bought??? 

See this one off of IE website you can see through the trigger wheel









Yours looks like the one you would use when using TDI crankshaft to go 2.1


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Mindfault said:


> Look at the part number on the crank and compare it to an fsi crank:thumbup:


I will get the part number when I go back to the machine shop.



Big_Tom said:


> not sure about the crank, but where's al this surface rust supposed to be at?


The surface rust was all over the deck and in the cylinder walls.

ONE EIGHT 
I thought something looked different also.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^ oh ok


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Are you missing a third oil pump bolt? I've not been in an 06A bottom end more than like 2x.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

gdoggmoney said:


> Are you missing a third oil pump bolt? I've not been in an 06A bottom end more than like 2x.


one of those bolts holds the plastic baffle inside the pan. thats prolly why thats gone.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Going to try to get to the machine shop tomorrow, well today. I've been working twelves all week plus a 16 Monday. :money: :money: :beer:


----------



## 16plus4v (May 4, 2006)

I'm 90% sure that's a cast crank. Which would mean its not a 2.0l FSI crank..


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

16plus4v said:


> I'm 90% sure that's a cast crank. Which would mean its not a 2.0l FSI crank..


AEG maybe?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)




----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Part numbers on the crank are. 

281000 06AF

050 105 189

GGG60 TF8193.3 Brazil


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

the parts are so shiny! i had to DIM my monitor a little bro :screwy:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> the parts are so shiny! i had to DIM my monitor a little bro :screwy:


ohh no!


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> ohh no!


ur an EPIC TROLL. BIGGEST LOSER of 2012 is a tie between YOU and GONZO :laugh:

*edit however GONZO does follow me around the forums posting stupid $hit and/or send me stupid PM's about racing like you do :sly:


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

now now fight nice kids


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> now now fight nice kids


:facepalm:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Now that we have the bickering over with...
Can anyone confirm or deny this is an FSI crank?



hootyburra said:


> Part numbers on the crank are.
> 
> 281000 06AF
> 
> ...


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Now that we have the bickering over with...
> Can anyone confirm or deny this is an FSI crank?


Google is your friend. Also if you put part numbers into ECStuning catalog it will often come up with an accurate item description


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Richard...... Are you always such a schwantz?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Richard...... Are you always such a schwantz?
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


apparently yes :facepalm:


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Google is your friend. Also if you put part numbers into ECStuning catalog it will often come up with an accurate item description


You like to masturbate while looking at your own ãss in the mirror don't you??


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You like to masturbate while looking at your own ãss in the mirror don't you??


:laugh::thumbup:


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> You like to masturbate while looking at your own ãss in the mirror don't you??


Yes :thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Google is your friend. Also if you put part numbers into ECStuning catalog it will often come up with an accurate item description


Alright squid d!ck. Lets see your links for the search.


----------



## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Don't FSI cranks have 06B stamped on them?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Alright now that I got some sleep I am trying to really figure this out. 

The block was sold as having an FSI crank... that is why I am so determined to figure this out. 


I found this thread. 

http://forums.triplezoom.com/showthread.php?3727637-Crank-Part-Number

How I did not come across this before....

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3517106-2.0-TFSI-vs.-1.8T-crankshaft



I still can't confirm what crank this is. :banghead:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Obviously the crank trigger wheel is not the same:banghead:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

TooLFan46n2 said:


> Don't FSI cranks have 06B stamped on them?


I know the gear for the oil pump has 065




Blue GTI said:


> My findings are - that crankshafts are identical, only difference is tooth gear wheel for oil pump ! 2.0 TFSI has 21 tooths, 1.8 T has 19 tooths. Part number for 2.0 TFSI tooth gear wheel is 06B 105 209 and for 1.8T is 06A 105 209.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Going to order new accessory belt and related parts in that area... 


Anyone on the crank question?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Motor should be done tomorrow, ordered new accessory belt and tensioner. 

Contemplating ordering a new MAP and knock sensors 


Registered the eurodyne today, I will be doing lots of reading in that area


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Motor should be done tomorrow, ordered new accessory belt and tensioner.
> 
> Contemplating ordering a new MAP and knock sensors
> 
> ...


 don't fix it if it aint broke bro. :beer: i'm pondering about buying a local guys maestro setup. he's got a clean BT GTI he's putting back to stock


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

fresh pics on the first page


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

That motor is sqeaky clean :thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:banghead: 

Machine shop promised it would be done this weekend.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

motor is back in the garage. 
Changing everything over. 

Really debating getting rid of the AC


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> motor is back in the garage.
> Changing everything over.
> 
> Really debating getting rid of the AC


if this is ur daily keep the a/c lol. although i live in FL and never use mine :laugh:


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

keep the ac. you will regret getting rid of it on a 100* day


----------



## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

Big_Tom said:


> although i live in FL and never use mine :laugh:


Your crazy Tom! I always used the AC when I lived in Florida. Partially cause I didn't like the humidity and AC gets rid of that in the car. My AC just went out after my rebuild. Need to get it up and running again before I move to Phoenix in a few weeks :banghead:


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

desertdubs_C said:


> Your crazy Tom! I always used the AC when I lived in Florida. Partially cause I didn't like the humidity and AC gets rid of that in the car. My AC just went out after my rebuild. Need to get it up and running again before I move to Phoenix in a few weeks :banghead:


:laugh::beer: i use it sometimes when it's actually raining. other than that not really


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Agreed.. I like a clean bay, but deleting AC on a street car is dumb IMO :thumbdown: Also lowers the resale desirability if/when you decide to sell


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> if this is ur daily keep the a/c lol. although i live in FL and never use mine :laugh:





MKIII_96 said:


> keep the ac. you will regret getting rid of it on a 100* day





dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Agreed.. I like a clean bay, but deleting AC on a street car is dumb IMO :thumbdown: Also lowers the resale desirability if/when you decide to sell


I can always put it back in. It never worked right anyway. Bay looks so much better without those pipes.

For the serpentine tensioner does the bracket go on the inside or the outside?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Painted the valve cover, cut and bent the PS line, Mounted the reservoir. Removed the A/C components. 
Set up the parts washer. 

I need to get more pics as I go. 


































Q-tips are awesome for filling all the small holes. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

that valve-cover looks great hooty :thumbup:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

> I can always put it back in. It never worked right anyway. Bay looks so much better without those pipes.


My a/c broke about 2 years ago. Developed a leak somewhere. Never bothered fixing it.

Not finished with the bay but you can see I agree w you..... 

Oh and I live in Miami. Heat and humidity central.










Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> My a/c broke about 2 years ago. Developed a leak somewhere. Never bothered fixing it.
> 
> Not finished with the bay but you can see I agree w you.....
> 
> ...


More info on your fuel lines please...
Are they ran all the way back to the filter? The intank pump? Size?


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> More info on your fuel lines please...
> Are they ran all the way back to the filter? The intank pump? Size?


Fuel lines are -8 feed and -6 return. They are run all the way back to a Mahle (i think) filter. Intank pump solution is a custom thing my bud came up with. He's going to release it for sale so I cannot give too many details. Lets just say I will be able to run E85, max out my turbo and not run out of fuel. Once manufacturing is done I will post up details and have a write up or whatever in my thread. You can PM him *04 GLI Luva*


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> My a/c broke about 2 years ago. Developed a leak somewhere. Never bothered fixing it.
> 
> Not finished with the bay but you can see I agree w you.....
> 
> ...


You forgot to mention it isn't your daily. I don't see you driving the GLI to the office in slacks and a button down midsummer


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Im on the fence with my A/C and power steering. Car needs a PS pump, and the a/c needs a recharge.

I also spilled 1/2 gallon of marvel mystery oil in the trunk, I threw out the trunk liner that weighed 30lbs and I can't get the smell out of the interior so I may be gutting it.

I think I will keep the PS and A/C though. I could easily do some flat door cards and door pulls, with vapor barriers or something.

Then It hink well it's a 2002 Jetta anyways with no sunroof. It's at 190k miles and worthless resale value wise with all the mods unless I part it. Might as well go for broke. It's looking like a gut with A/C and power steering for bad humidity and comfort/rainy days/defrost.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> You forgot to mention it isn't your daily. I don't see you driving the GLI to the office in slacks and a button down midsummer


True... I have occasionally driven it to work. Took my boss for a spin in it once. Spun 3rd all the way from 5K to 8K and he looked like he had to change his drawers. Priceless :laugh:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)




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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

gdoggmoney said:


> Im on the fence with my A/C and power steering. Car needs a PS pump, and the a/c needs a recharge.
> 
> I also spilled 1/2 gallon of marvel mystery oil in the trunk, I threw out the trunk liner that weighed 30lbs and I can't get the smell out of the interior so I may be gutting it.
> 
> ...


I'm with you. The miniscule gains from removing AC & PS aren't worth it to me. I've done the deletes in past cars....from now on I'm keeping creature comforts. Even if my AC doesn't work now I might fix it someday....


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Yay motor is home! Looking good Hooty button her up!


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I cut the hard coolant line just before the nipple that runs to the temp senspor housing. Going to run rubber lines from there. I was going to run AN but want to get this thing on the road. 
Ordered a new serpentine belt for the ac delete, aeb I'M gasket and some other parts from NAPA today. 

For the serp tensioner does the bracket go on the inside or outside?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

I believe its outside. If not one replies I'll double check when I get home.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

TooLFan46n2 said:


> I believe its outside. If not one replies I'll double check when I get home.


Motor looks so clean hooty! :beer: you're about to have a lot of fun


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

Yes bracket on outside. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> Motor looks so clean hooty! :beer: you're about to have a lot of fun


 Thanks Tom



TooLFan46n2 said:


> Yes bracket on outside. :thumbup:


 :beer: Thank you. 


Question for those with the CTS kit. 
Did you have to drill the oil return flanges? 

The bolt holes are to small...
Also the return line seems like it will barley be long enough... 
Anyone have a pic of theres?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Thanks Tom
> 
> 
> :beer: Thank you.
> ...


Return lines fit tight, i've built a few now and you have to measure them well and account for bend/slop etc. If it don't fit -- return it.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Return lines fit tight, i've built a few now and you have to measure them well and account for bend/slop etc. If it don't fit -- return it.


got it assembled. It sits rather close to the exhaust mani


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

i didnt have to drill anything to install mine. somebody prob gave u the wrong bolts. I have a couple pictures of my return line in my build thread. it might no be what ur looking for tho. i can snap a couple more when i get home from work later today. I'm headin in now


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> i didnt have to drill anything to install mine. somebody prob gave u the wrong bolts. I have a couple pictures of my return line in my build thread. it might no be what ur looking for tho. i can snap a couple more when i get home from work later today. I'm headin in now


I had to drill out the flange for the oil drain on the turbo, the holes were to small.

All good now. 

Next, figure out a surge tank location.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I had to drill out the flange for the oil drain on the turbo, the holes were to small.
> 
> All good now.
> 
> Next, figure out a surge tank location.


:beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I had to drill out the flange for the oil drain on the turbo, the holes were to small.
> 
> All good now.
> 
> Next, figure out a surge tank location.


Pagparts flanges don't require any drilling, hmmm


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Pagparts flanges don't require any drilling, hmmm



I enjoyed drilling them. Gave me some scrap aluminum.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Pagparts flanges don't require any drilling, hmmm


Where that nut swinging gif when you need it?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










looking better everyday


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Word, you wanna wheel that right down 78/22E headed my way?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Where that nut swinging gif when you need it?
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


I ran a CTS kit before I bought my pagparts kit. There is a serious difference in the quality of the casting and machining between the two. Take it as you will...


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## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

i agree, down a few CTS kits. the pagparts kits are muucch much nicer and better quality,fit and finish.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I ran a CTS kit before I bought my pagparts kit. There is a serious difference in the quality of the casting and machining between the two. Take it as you will...





Vegeta Gti said:


> i agree, down a few CTS kits. the pagparts kits are muucch much nicer and better quality,fit and finish.


Regardless it is much better then the ebay kit and Clay and Nik are great guys to deal with.

:thumbup: for CTS 

Also Snyders Machine Shop between danville and northumberland is a top notch place.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> Regardless it is much better then the ebay kit and Clay and Nik are great guys to deal with.
> 
> :thumbup: for CTS
> 
> Also Snyders Machine Shop between danville and northumberland is a top notch place.


Gonna be a rippin setup hooty :thumbup: glad to see you stuck with it bud:beer:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)




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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Regardless it is much better then the ebay kit and Clay and Nik are great guys to deal with.
> 
> :thumbup: for CTS
> 
> Also Snyders Machine Shop between danville and northumberland is a top notch place.


:thumbup: nice work on that PS reservoir. I'm gonna prob do mine just like that



dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Gonna be a rippin setup hooty :thumbup: glad to see you stuck with it bud:beer:


:beer: this


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup: nice work on that PS reservoir. I'm gonna prob do mine just like that


Let me warn you that frame rail was a ficking butch to get through. 
The pipe bender you rent at autozone worked awesome. OEM 27013. They can be purchased for cheap at HF if you plan on doing any piping later. 

There was what looked to be a restrictor in the stock line so I took a small punch and forced it down into the new line. That is what that second hose clamp is doing just hanging out.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Can't decide between the 70 or 80mm TB. 

Is this the same 70 that everyone is using? 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2000-2004-Audi-A6-Throttle-Body-078-133-062-B-/300571846054#vi-content


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


>


Lookin good :thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Regardless it is much better then the ebay kit


Shouldn't any kit be better than the ebay kit? :screwy:


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## 04 GLI Luva (May 30, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Shouldn't any kit be better than the ebay kit? :screwy:


Shouldnt any 1.8t w/ rods and 30R make 400+? :screwy:
lol


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

04 GLI Luva said:


> Shouldnt any 1.8t w/ rods and 30R make 400+? :screwy:
> lol


ZING!!


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Uuuufffffffffff

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

04 GLI Luva said:


> Shouldnt any 1.8t w/ rods and 30R make 400+? :screwy:
> lol





dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> ZING!!


LOLZ. Not if you can't rev higher than 5500 rpms


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

Big_Tom said:


> LOLZ. Not if you can't rev higher than 5500 rpms


BAAAANG-ZOOM!:laugh:


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> Can't decide between the 70 or 80mm TB.
> 
> Is this the same 70 that everyone is using?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2000-2004-Audi-A6-Throttle-Body-078-133-062-B-/300571846054#vi-content


Get a 75mm TB. .:R32 part out will have one for cheap. :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

desertdubs_C said:


> Get a 75mm TB. .:R32 part out will have one for cheap. :thumbup:


Didn't really look into the 75's to much. I'll have to do more searching. I was reading INA's thread but I want real data not dyno numbers...


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

What to do today? 

Mount the trany and put the motor in?


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

04 GLI Luva said:


> Shouldnt any 1.8t w/ rods and 30R make 400+? :screwy:
> lol


Not if a certain person doesn't get their **** together and finish making my fuel pump bracket


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> *I love to troll other threads and make useless posts.*


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Does anyone have pics of how they routed the coolant lines on the cts kit? Mainly the feed. Worried about heat


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

New pics on page 1

Tom do you have pics of how you ran the oil drain and coolant lines. 
The drain is going right over the DP. I am going to turn it some....

Also DIY'd a gasket. 

Any tips/suggestions for putting the transmission on and lifting this back into the car?


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## TooLFan46n2 (Oct 18, 1999)

hootyburra said:


> New pics on page 1
> 
> Tom do you have pics of how you ran the oil drain and coolant lines.
> The drain is going right over the DP. I am going to turn it some....
> ...


Easiest is to keep the subframe out. With that you should be okay I think. Subframe in; I always remove the axle cup flanges because they always hangup on stuff.


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

My 70mm TB from INA was out of a C Class MB I thought.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

TooLFan46n2 said:


> Easiest is to keep the subframe out. With that you should be okay I think. Subframe in; I always remove the axle cup flanges because they always hangup on stuff.


:beer:

Subframe is still on the car. I will try and guide it in. If not I will pull the flanges. It is easiest to have the motor and tranny together when putting it back in the car, correct? It was a major pita to remove the tranny with the block in.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> New pics on page 1
> 
> Tom do you have pics of how you ran the oil drain and coolant lines.
> The drain is going right over the DP. I am going to turn it some....
> ...


I'll get you some hooty. my oil drain does run beside my downpipe. as for coolant lines, i dont have any that run to the turbo, but i'll show you that as well.


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> :beer:
> 
> Subframe is still on the car. I will try and guide it in. If not I will pull the flanges. It is easiest to have the motor and tranny together when putting it back in the car, correct? It was a major pita to remove the tranny with the block in.


Hooty, as I've just recently put mine back together, I highly recommend installing the engine/trans in the bay as one. I've installed a few transmissions with the block installed, a PITA it is. Was able to take the engine/trans out in about 3 hrs and install in just a little more time than that. Having an extra set of hands around to help you guide it in is always a plus.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

desertdubs_C said:


> Hooty, as I've just recently put mine back together, I highly recommend installing the engine/trans in the bay as one. I've installed a few transmissions with the block installed, a PITA it is. Was able to take the engine/trans out in about 3 hrs and install in just a little more time than that. Having an extra set of hands around to help you guide it in is always a plus.



Did you remove the subframe or axle cups?


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> Did you remove the subframe or axle cups?


Nope. Just left that in. Didn't even take out the AC. It's easy enough with the engine/trans suspended from a hoist. Just slowly move it in at an angle and it will slide right in there. Position the axle cups in the slots before bolting the mounts in --just makes it a little easier--


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

work is killing my car time... hoping to have some major progress made over the holiday


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> work is killing my car time...


Mine 2. :facepalm: I'll still get you those pics of my oil and water lines. gonna try and do it today


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I should have the motor in today. 
Tranny is mounted.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> I should have the motor in today.
> Tranny is mounted.


 :thumbup::thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:banghead::banghead: 

Snapped the bolt for the mount to the transmission. the mount that bolts to the transmission. 

I'm going to try and find some 10.9's tomorrow and actually get this thing in the car.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Motor is in the car. 

Question for CTS owners. 

How did you fab up the pipe to connect the downpipe to the rest of your exhaust


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> Motor is in the car.
> 
> Question for CTS owners.
> 
> How did you fab up the pipe to connect the downpipe to the rest of your exhaust


 Hmm question is a little vague. My cts kit bolted right up to my downpipe

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

desertdubs_C said:


> Hmm question is a little vague. My cts kit bolted right up to my downpipe
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


 The downpipe in the CTS kit stops right below the manifold. 
It has the 4 bolt flange. The rest of my exhaust ends just behind the subframe.


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Mine bolted right up to my existing stock turbo downpipe hooty. Same one i bought from ebay in 2007. PM me if you need one :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> Mine bolted right up to my existing stock turbo downpipe hooty. Same one i bought from ebay in 2007. PM me if you need one :thumbup:


 Thanks for the info tom. 

Next problem is how in the heck does the power steering line route? I can't remember. over the transmission or around? I tried looking at my bros TT but it is different... Pics would be awesome. 

Also how do you remove the lower metal oil dipstick tube?


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## desertdubs_C (Sep 20, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> The downpipe in the CTS kit stops right below the manifold.
> It has the 4 bolt flange. The rest of my exhaust ends just behind the subframe.


 Ok I see what your saying now. I would snag up Tom's eBay downpipe. You can get a good one at a real good price from 42dd. 

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

first post updated


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> 4-11 edit.
> Motor is in the car. eace:
> 
> Need to figure out a surge tank setup, or do I? The stock intank has it's own surge tank incorporated, could I just run an 044 inline and not have to worry below 1/4 tank?
> ...


 That looks sick hooty! I don't see why you couldn't do that


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> That looks sick hooty! I don't see why you couldn't do that


 That is what I am starting to lean towards. I have another option in the works but am worried about fitment...


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Work is hindering finishing the build. All the overtime might add some extra goodies. ideas? New suspension?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

Get some coilovers :thumbup: I'm working a ton this week too. I'm about to go in right now :facepalm:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Can anyone comment on how the lower dipstick tube is installed? the metal one. 
I tried tapping it in with a rubber mallet and cracked the top of it.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> Can anyone comment on how the lower dipstick tube is installed? the metal one.
> I tried tapping it in with a rubber mallet and cracked the top of it.


I lubed mine with some motor oil, twisted it back and forth, and tapped it in.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> I lubed mine with some motor oil, twisted it back and forth, and tapped it in.


I always forget the lube and twisting. I just slam it home :laugh::laugh:

I will get a new one and be a little more gentle.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Show me pics of your inline setups and surge tank setups.


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## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> I always forget the lube and twisting. I just slam it home :laugh::laugh:
> 
> I will get a new one and be a little more gentle.


I lol'd :laugh::thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Picked up the 034 surge with 044 and wiring harness from unaturally aspirated today. Brand new.


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Picked up the 034 surge with 044 and wiring harness from unaturally aspirated today. Brand new.


That's a quality setup :thumbup:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well today was going great. Accepted a supervisor position with a nice pay increase. :}

Went to work on the car. The passenger side raxle fell apart. Bearings came out. I will be calling marty in the morning. I took the plastic wrap and it came apart. 
The oil drain in the cts kit is to short. I will be calling clay to talk about that. First the cooland bt lines being forgotten now this... there is no way it is fitting with the dp. 
Thank you Big Tom for a professesional packaging job and excellent communication. 
The icing on the cake is there is shaft play in the turbo. In and out side to side. I never noticed it before... it is a brand new turbo... 
I am not in a good mood at all right now. And the bugs at this hour are ****ing awful.


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## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

hootyburra said:


> Well today was going great. Accepted a supervisor position with a nice pay increase. :}
> 
> Went to work on the car. The passenger side raxle fell apart. Bearings came out. I will be calling marty in the morning. I took the plastic wrap and it came apart.
> The oil drain in the cts kit is to short. I will be calling clay to talk about that. First the cooland bt lines being forgotten now this... there is no way it is fitting with the dp.
> ...


Welcome to the world of BT :-/
:beer:


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## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Well today was going great. Accepted a supervisor position with a nice pay increase. :}
> 
> Went to work on the car. The passenger side raxle fell apart. Bearings came out. I will be calling marty in the morning. I took the plastic wrap and it came apart.
> The oil drain in the cts kit is to short. I will be calling clay to talk about that. First the cooland bt lines being forgotten now this... there is no way it is fitting with the dp.
> ...


Unless it is a ballbearing turbo my understanding is that all journal bearing turbos have some shaft play until pressurized oil lubricates the center section. 

Is it a precision turbo?


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Well today was going great. Accepted a supervisor position with a nice pay increase. :}
> 
> Went to work on the car. The passenger side raxle fell apart. Bearings came out. I will be calling marty in the morning. I took the plastic wrap and it came apart.
> The oil drain in the cts kit is to short. I will be calling clay to talk about that. First the cooland bt lines being forgotten now this... there is no way it is fitting with the dp.
> ...


:beer: for the promotion. Sux about the car probs tho


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Unless it is a ballbearing turbo my understanding is that all journal bearing turbos have some shaft play until pressurized oil lubricates the center section.
> 
> Is it a precision turbo?


Is it a precision turbo?[/QUOTE]

It is a 3076 garret 



Big_Tom said:


> :beer: for the promotion. Sux about the car probs tho


 Thanks Tom, Thanks again for the downpipe.


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

my new garret also has a little tiny bit of play. im thinking its normal and will go away once it gets used


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## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Almost every turbo has play in it until oil pressurizes the bearings, it's more pronounced on journal bearing turdbo's :thumbup:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

My brand new 3076 CHRA had minor amounts of play as you describe.

It also for about 1000 miles let a little oil go through the compressor at 6psi, but now it's sealed up clean and moves no oil......


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I feel much better about that. I just can't remember there being any when I took it out of the box. 

I'm getting ready to call Marty about the raxles. 

Any special sites to order fuel line and fittings from.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> I feel much better about that. I just can't remember there being any when I took it out of the box.
> 
> I'm getting ready to call Marty about the raxles.
> 
> Any special sites to order fuel line and fittings from.


What I will tell you is my brand new 3076 housing was warped from the garrett factory. I had to have it decked 0 flat. My pagparts stuff was spot on, one manifold was slightly warped at a corner from UPS throwing my box and damaging it. But it was recoverable.


Both ends of my housing, the turbine inlet and 4 bolt outlet were way way warped, to where even a gasket would not seal. BRAND NEW.

Do yourself a big favor hooty, unless your downpipe is a stepped flange v-band, have it all 0 flat even the wastegate flange. Have it measured at least. New stuff can be off.

My car drives so nice off boost and builds boost so much nicer now. It also is not blowing out gaskets, it sounds mean.

My problem now is that I run enough additives/solvents in my gas that I don't have carbon build up to seal my downpipe, so I have to get a gasket for that


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I just installed my 3076 recently didn't resurface anything nothing looked warped my manifold may be haven't checked though so far no leaks, I'm just worried about studs and nuts backing out had an issue with that before and blew the Pre turbo gasket. Gonna check make sure every
thing is tight after a few heat cycles


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

codergfx said:


> I just installed my 3076 recently didn't resurface anything nothing looked warped my manifold may be haven't checked though so far no leaks, I'm just worried about studs and nuts backing out had an issue with that before and blew the Pre turbo gasket. Gonna check make sure every
> thing is tight after a few heat cycles


Mine did not look warped either.


It required the use of a straight edge and feeler gauges to find out, and once it was on a surfacing machine the swipe pattern did not lie, it was WAY out at the corners on the downpipe side, and the turbine inlet was u shaped much over what was permissible.


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Maybe it was dropped ? I'm using a 4bolt to vband flange haven't had issues yet

One thing im worried About is my wg falling off and burning the coolant line. I've had nuts back off on it before


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

need to send the raxle back to marty, overextended it installing :facepalm:

Oil drain rests against the DP:screwy: come on CTS :thumbdown:


----------



## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

that sucks


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> need to send the raxle back to marty, overextended it installing :facepalm:
> 
> Oil drain rests against the DP:screwy: come on CTS :thumbdown:


 CTS Fail :thumbdown:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> need to send the raxle back to marty, overextended it installing :facepalm:
> 
> Oil drain rests against the DP:screwy: come on CTS :thumbdown:


 That's the new oil preheating system they designed. It allows your oil to get up to temp faster, which allows you to romp on the car quicker during cold mornings. 


No im just kidding, they want your project to burn to the ground.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:d


gdoggmoney said:


> that's the new oil preheating system they designed. It allows your oil to get up to temp faster, which allows you to romp on the car quicker during cold mornings.
> 
> 
> No im just kidding, they want your project to burn to the ground.


 :d


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Need ideas on where to mount the 034 surge? 

Pictures?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...44-really-have-to-be-in-line-(pictures)/page1


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...44-really-have-to-be-in-line-(pictures)/page1


 I saw the picture of that mounting location. 
I would rather have it out of the cabin. 

I am thinking of mounting it behind the spare tire... I would rather not rerun all of the lines. 
The closer I can keep the pump to the rail the happier I will be


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

hootyburra said:


> I saw the picture of that mounting location.
> I would rather have it out of the cabin.
> 
> I am thinking of mounting it behind the spare tire... I would rather not rerun all of the lines.
> The closer I can keep the pump to the rail the happier I will be


 INA has some pics of it mounted there on his facebook page I think. They did an install like that over at 034 a year or so ago


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I saw that on a eurotuner link. 

Whatever I do I will keep you posted. :beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*CLAY/CTS ... Where are you*

_ Posting this here before I make a thread ..._ 
I didn't want to have to make this thread but due to a lack of communication on your end; here it is. 

I just want to make others aware that the supplied oil drain in your kit can be rather short. 
Mine is currently resting on the downpipe with no room for movement. 

I will get some better pics after work. 

Also I just wanted to point out I see multiple threads now praising Arnold for his quality kits. 
Ed also. 

Lets go Clay, I have said nothing but good things about you to multiple people on multiple occurrences. 
After the coolant lines being forgotten and that being taken care of asap I thought things would be ok. .... Guess I was wrong. 

Phone, email, even posting in your threads. ... 
Aaron


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

also i don't have the cts oil return line anymore. it was melted practically solid by the downpipe, i was working on it last year and it snapped. I made another oil return line, a little longer and routed it a way that spaced it from downpipe.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> also i don't have the cts oil return line anymore. it was melted practically solid by the downpipe, i was working on it last year and it snapped. I made another oil return line, a little longer and routed it a way that spaced it from downpipe.


 No one from cts has gotten back to me.....


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

This is why I buy from Pagparts, because all the parts fit the first time. It's one thing to forget to include something by accident, but parts not fitting/working is a step above QC!


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

18T_BT said:


> This is why I buy from Pagparts, because all the parts fit the first time. It's one thing to forget to include something by accident, but parts not fitting/working is a step above QC!


 Yup, arnold always kept in touch, whether by phone, email or AIM. i was always able to get in contact with him


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> This is why I buy from Pagparts, because all the parts fit the first time. It's one thing to forget to include something by accident, but parts not fitting/working is a step above QC!


 CTS kits are made in china, what can you expect :screwy:


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

boosted b5 said:


> Yup, arnold always kept in touch, whether by phone, email or AIM. i was always able to get in contact with him


 Arnold earns his customer loyalty quite well. Arnold got very busy when my Audi kit was ordered, however since I did not actually need it for many many moons, I trusted him and let him sit on the hardware and huge pile of cash I sent him. I just checked in occasionally, and stressed I still had time and was not in a hurry to get it and if he had other business to take care of that first. 

I had extreme issues in the past and Arnold was there. Arnold consequently got thousands more of my dollars. 


I tell you what, i've dropped 10k over the years there at least, and not a single problem that was show stopping. Mistakes happen but were corrected, and at this point any car I had I would likely take to Arnold for fab work if he agreed to take it on, not just buy his VAG hardware. 

3 or 4 pagparts BT kits now. 

2 current, a bottom mount 3076 and a v-band iron manifold 5857 longitudinal. 

I'm no richie either, I have a cancer kid and I earn every damn dollar with low middle class background growing up. 

It's to the point where I go to pagparts first for gaskets or little stuff, and even if it's a couple bucks higher I spend it there.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Here is the thing, before I had spent that kind of money..... THe service was just as good.


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Here is the thing, before I had spent that kind of money..... THe service was just as good.


 yep, i haven't spent thousands @ PAG (yet :laugh::wave but Arnold's service is still second to none :beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Need to figure out a different idea for the surge tank location. I really don't think it is going to work in the bay. 

I am thinking underneath the passenger frame rail. 

I would need to remove that plastic shield. 
Anyone with pics would be great.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> Need to figure out a different idea for the surge tank location. I really don't think it is going to work in the bay.
> 
> I am thinking underneath the passenger frame rail.
> 
> ...


Why are you steering away from a proper intank pump using the stock in-tank surge tank?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> Why are you steering away from a proper intank pump using the stock in-tank surge tank?


What? I purchased the 034 surge w 044 pump, the stock pump will be feeding that.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well the stock lines irritated me so they got ripped out. 

Attached one of the -6 adapters to a new stock filter and the other to the return coming off the tank. 

I am hoping the Snyder's has enough line in stock.


----------



## formerly silveratljetta (Feb 6, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> What? I purchased the 034 surge w 044 pump, the stock pump will be feeding that.


I should have been more clear. I meant an in tank pump using the stock swirl pot or an aftermarket intank surge like the one from pagparts


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

formerly silveratljetta said:


> I should have been more clear. I meant an in tank pump using the stock swirl pot or an aftermarket intank surge like the one from pagparts


:banghead:


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

:banghead: :banghead:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Going to mock things up after work and see what I need


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Alright. Update. 

I attached the RUSSELL-640863 to the stock fuel filter and the stock return line above the filter. 
There was a plastic ring around the upper part of the stock return nipple that had to be snipped off in order to let the adapter fitting seat. I am going to check them for leaks today. 

I plan on mounting the 034 surge under the frame rail near the PS reservoir. Then mounting a 100 micron filter in the bay where inlines are normally put. 







Image from One-Eight GTI 

I have the intercooler mounted, I really had to take a chunk out of the support... 

I will get some pics of all this and keep you updated. 

Also. What size coupler are we using for the 80mm TB?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

if your IC piping is 3 inch, then get this: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=523&osCsid=89ddc19a5aef5f56d3745b416296185f

if your IC piping is somehow 80mm also, then you won't need a reducer :thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I really can not figure out where I want to mount this surge. 
Under the frame rail will not work because of the PS reservoir. 

In the bay may work, I can't be certain until I get everything else installed.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> I really can not figure out where I want to mount this surge.
> Under the frame rail will not work because of the PS reservoir.
> 
> In the bay may work, I can't be certain until I get everything else installed.


Mount the surge where the oe fuel filter resides, and install a new filter underhood by the fuel rail..


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Mount the surge where the oe fuel filter resides, and install a new filter underhood by the fuel rail..


It doesn't look like there will be room there. 

The only other place I see is in the cavity at the rear where the spare tire will is. 034 had mounted on here. 
I would redo all of the stock plumbing if I went this route.


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> It doesn't look like there will be room there.
> 
> The only other place I see is in the cavity at the rear where the spare tire will is. 034 had mounted on here.
> I would redo all of the stock plumbing if I went this route.


What surge are you running?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> What surge are you running?


034 surge


----------



## dubinsincuwereindiapers (Jan 16, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> 034 surge


Should be plenty of room down there. Do you physically have the unit in your hands yet to test fit?


----------



## Rac_337 (Sep 24, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> :beer: for the promotion. Sux about the car probs tho





hootyburra said:


> Is it a precision turbo?
> 
> It is a 3076 garret
> 
> ...


I thought garrets were the bee's knees and never have problems ever because they are so awesome?  :laugh:

just playing. nice build man. hopefully the turbo issue gets sorted. :beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

dubinsincuwereindiapers said:


> Should be plenty of room down there. Do you physically have the unit in your hands yet to test fit?


Yea. I will check it tomorrow before work. I was thinking about running rubber lines from the stock pump down to the surge if it fits there. Yea or ney?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well the surge will fit there. It is very tight and will be down much lower then the stock filter. 

I would need to run 2 rubber lines from the intank(5/16" clamped to the stock 90 fittings on the tank) to the surge; a banjo fitting on the back of the surge for the stock feed and return then -6 twist-tite for the rest.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Running new line from the intank is going to be a major pita without dropping the tank. I don't like how low the surge will sit if I mount it in the stock filter location.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Running the lines isn't that bad. We did it on 04 GLI LUVA's GLI and mine. You just need a second pair of hands Dropping the tank isn't that bad either. I think there are only 4 bolts. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Running the lines isn't that bad. We did it on 04 GLI LUVA's GLI and mine. You just need a second pair of hands Dropping the tank isn't that bad either. I think there are only 4 bolts.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


Alright. I am going to mock up the 034 in the stock filter location and post some pics to see what everyone else thinks. 

I sent an email to 034 asking for details on project silverstone. 
I like this setup, http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/eurp_1110_2003_vw_gti/photo_04.html


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Here are pics to explain alot of what I am saying.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

ordered an 80mm TB


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Going to pick up some more hose for coolant and fuel today. 
I need to start getting sh!t done


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

up for advice on the surge tank...

Does anyone know the thread pitch of the ports so I can order banjo fittings?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Started dropping the tank before work. 
Does the filler neck just pull down and out?
Any wire connections I need to worry about?


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

When we "dropped the tank" on my car we didn't take it down, just lowered it enough to run the lines from the bottom filter area up to the top of the tank. You may have an easier time running the lines from the top down to the bottom but then may run into an issue when the line runs up through the frame rail to the bay. For both areas you'll need one set of hands up top and another below so you can guide the lines the way they're supposed to run. 

We did not disconnect the filler neck although you probably can.

Only wiring we disconnected was the intank fuel pump/level wiring.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> When we "dropped the tank" on my car we didn't take it down, just lowered it enough to run the lines from the bottom filter area up to the top of the tank. You may have an easier time running the lines from the top down to the bottom but then may run into an issue when the line runs up through the frame rail to the bay. For both areas you'll need one set of hands up top and another below so you can guide the lines the way they're supposed to run.
> 
> We did not disconnect the filler neck although you probably can.
> 
> ...


Thank you. I was worried about piching the new lines when I itghtened everything back; I will keep an eye on the stock runs. 


Also for anyone wondering, the ports on the 034 surge tank are m12 x 1.5. 
I am planning on running 5/16 from stock pump to banjo fittings on the 034. -6 pushlock/twist tite for the rest. Blue and black to keep it somewhat oem looking


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Going to get some work done today and tomorrow. Finally have some time off work. 
I will update with pics. 

This is taking much longer then I expected. :banghead:


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Du werke

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Anyone have a 60mm to 80mm adapter plate? 

I will trade a 60mm to 70mm.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Is that oil line suppose to be L shaped? 


I think that may cause some back up....... 

Maybe add a 45 degree fitting to make it a little more vertical?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Is that oil line suppose to be L shaped?
> 
> 
> I think that may cause some back up.......
> ...


 
I have a 45 degree fitting, my line is a lot more vertical as well. Hooty, just try it out and if it smokes, try working on that return line.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Big_Tom said:


> I have a 45 degree fitting, my line is a lot more vertical as well. Hooty, just try it out and if it smokes, try working on that return line.


 

I'd hate to see this thing come together, burn oil, blow a turbo and oil up the piston crowns, valve seat areas etc. 


More damage to undo later and 1oz prevention > 1lb of cure


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## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^^ i doubt all that will happen lol. hasn't happpened to me and i needed to adjust my line a couple times. also nobody said he had to drive 1,000 miles with it at WOT. all you need to do it take it for a short spin around the block and you'll know if it's passing oil into your exhaust.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> ^^^ i doubt all that will happen lol. hasn't happpened to me and i needed to adjust my line a couple times. also nobody said he had to drive 1,000 miles with it at WOT. all you need to do it take it for a short spin around the block and you'll know if it's passing oil into your exhaust.


 Lol :thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Working 70 hour weeks is slowing me down. 

Surge is mounted, fuel lines are pretty much done. 

I'm having trouble with the IC piping. 

Does anyone have pics of how they routed the piping for and 80mm PS TB? 

It is looking like I am going to have to cut and weld the CTS piping to make things fit. 

I am also thinking about using a MAF for the break in/ tuning. 
Reading good things about the Hitachi S4 MAF. Any feedback.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

If you do get a MAF for break in/Tuning I'd rent it from you for a while when your done with it:laugh: just to get my Alpha N dialed in:thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Up


----------



## cah73 (Apr 13, 2007)

up for a hardworkin guy and longtime friend:thumbup: with missin fingers over here


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

cah73 said:


> up for a hardworkin guy and longtime friend:thumbup: with missin fingers over here


:beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

surge tank mounted, lines ran, USRT harness extended with some help from the electrical shop at work. 

Need to get some smaller bangos for the stock fuel lines. 
Mounted the stock filter right next to the 034 surge, filter before the surge and before the rail. 

Need to get pics up. Working like crazy still... 

Need to finder bigger coolant hose for the relocate, the morose filler neck is to big to stretch the stock hose. 

It's getting there.


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> the morose filler neck is to big to stretch the stock hose.


Did you get the 1.5" diameter one or the 1.25"? 1.25" is the correct size



hootyburra said:


> It's getting there.


:thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Did you get the 1.5" diameter one or the 1.25"? 1.25" is the correct size
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:thumbup: this. i bought the 1.5 and had to get 2 90 degree bends from autozone to get from the radiator inlet to the coolant flange. 1.25" should with the stock hoses


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

schwartzmagic said:


> Did you get the 1.5" diameter one or the 1.25"? 1.25" is the correct size
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Big_Tom said:


> :thumbup: this. i bought the 1.5 and had to get 2 90 degree bends from autozone to get from the radiator inlet to the coolant flange. 1.25" should with the stock hoses



Ordered the Moroso 63745 off Amazon. I'm going to have to measure it now. They have messed up little things with my orders before. 

Any advice on that IC piping. 


I am going to try and get some progress pics up before work


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

ready to start it tomorrow. 
Pretty nervous. 

I plan on leaving it on the jackstands. 

Starting and idling around 1700 for the cams and lifters. 

Running for 20-30 minutes to bring everything to temp then draining the oil and refilling. 

Will it have an effect on anything if I leave the cold side piping disconnected? MAP sensor?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> ready to start it tomorrow.
> Pretty nervous.
> 
> I plan on leaving it on the jackstands.
> ...


you can leave the cold side piping disconnected if you want. i've idled mine before w/ no intercooler piping while i was working on something


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

zddp for break in. Add a bottle of lucas tb zinc+. I run with a bottle of this stuf mixed in my oil.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Big_Tom said:


> you can leave the cold side piping disconnected if you want. i've idled mine before w/ no intercooler piping while i was working on something


Thank you. I knew it would be fine, just wanted some reassurance. 



gdoggmoney said:


> zddp for break in. Add a bottle of lucas tb zinc+. I run with a bottle of this stuf mixed in my oil.


Already have the zinc additive in. :thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

It's alive, idle is complete sh!t. I'm not even getting a reading on the AEM for a/f. 
I tried logging block 32 in Maestro while I was holding the rpm around 2. 
I was not seeing any reading. 

I am using the 870 base file from Chris. 

Cold side IC piping is disconnected. 
Smells like sh!t, like burn your throat from the fumes. 


Any suggestions?


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> It's alive, idle is complete sh!t. I'm not even getting a reading on the AEM for a/f.
> I tried logging block 32 in Maestro while I was holding the rpm around 2.
> I was not seeing any reading.
> 
> ...


not sure y ur not getting any readings. this is the guy who has never taken a log. i don't even have vagcom


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

Do you have your N80 resistored?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

18T_BT said:


> Do you have your N80 resistored?


Everything should be resistored off. I made sure to take care of that when I was cleaning up the wiring. 

I am going to try and load a different file on an adjust for the injectors. 

I am wondering if the 870 base file has VVT actice. I am assuming it does since it is for an AWP. 
Also how do you rescale for an 80mm TB in maestro?


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

I had my N80/N249 unplugged running maestro emissions delete and didn't have a single problem:screwy:

Just import the throttle vrs airflow and alpha n maps from the ID1000 80mm file to whatever base injector file your using.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Budsdubbin said:


> I had my N80/N249 unplugged running maestro emissions delete and didn't have a single problem:screwy:
> 
> Just import the throttle vrs airflow and alpha n maps from the ID1000 80mm file to whatever base injector file your using.


Thank you. 

Would you share how to disable VVT in the file?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

copied the maps for the 80mm TB. 

Editing the cam timing map based off a non VVT file. 

Used to injector wizard to get a new constant accounting the 2008cc stroker motor. 
It is somewhere in the area of .042 now. 

It does not sputter on start up now. Idle is still bad. AF reading is still off the gauge. running way lean. 


Open to suggestions.


----------



## Budsdubbin (Jul 14, 2008)

You'd have to use a non VVT file and copy the fueling tables from the correct injector base file (main, injection correction, target filling, optimal torque should do it) aswell as BVC. Try adjusting your BVC by + or - .05 according to your A/F at idle (not your whole curve but just where ever your idle voltage is at) your lean so start by adding .05 at a time. If this doesn't help then you may need to go and adjust your alpha n map from 0-30%


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Budsdubbin said:


> You'd have to use a non VVT file and copy the fueling tables from the correct injector base file (main, injection correction, target filling, optimal torque should do it) aswell as BVC. Try adjusting your BVC by + or - .05 according to your A/F at idle (not your whole curve but just where ever your idle voltage is at) your lean so start by adding .05 at a time. If this doesn't help then you may need to go and adjust your alpha n map from 0-30%


:beer:

thank you. 

I considering adding a MAF...


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> copied the maps for the 80mm TB.
> 
> Editing the cam timing map based off a non VVT file.
> 
> ...


Add a MAF.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> Add a MAF.


 Would the TT225 MAF be pushed to it's limits? 

I can use my bros for the time being. 

I am looking at the s4 MAF, it seems to be one of the favorites.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)




----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Thank you Rac337 for the help so far. 


I am not getting any readings in block 32 at idles. 

I am going to start checking resistors. 

I am also going to pick up a new 02 sensor. 


When I start the car it idles great for about 5 seconds then goes crazy hunting for a few seconds until it completely leans out... past 17 on the AEM


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Thank you Rac337 for the help so far.
> 
> 
> I am not getting any readings in block 32 at idles.
> ...


 No codes? Check the resistors for sure, n112, n249 etc all must have them. I Believe the VVT solenoid as well if not present.


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

hootyburra said:


> Would the TT225 MAF be pushed to it's limits?
> 
> I can use my bros for the time being.
> 
> I am looking at the s4 MAF, it seems to be one of the favorites.


 No, once you overflow it you will go to EGO feedback anyways, and just target an AFR based on that I believe. It makes a world of differnece for spool and how fast power builds at various RPM


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> No codes? Check the resistors for sure, n112, n249 etc all must have them. I Believe the VVT solenoid as well if not present.


 I am wondering if the VVT resistor blew out. The first file I flashed was for VVT. 

I will double check the n112 and n249.


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

why not maf-less?? 

run the 3bar TDI Map sensor


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

boosted b5 said:


> why not maf-less??
> 
> run the 3bar TDI Map sensor


 Want to run mafless. 

Was going to use a MAf to get things running. 

The 3 bar MAP, is there an option for this in Maestro or does is automatically adjust?


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

boosted b5 said:


> why not maf-less??
> 
> run the 3bar TDI Map sensor


 Can't. Theres a table size limit on the MAP sensor -- or at least not with "stock" ME7 memory locations. If theres a way around this, i'd love to know. I'm already over my MAP. 


Also, i know you have not been around much but it's been all but determined that MAFless is garbage because your stuck with an 8x8 or so table, and these systems were truly designed to be MAF based because a MAF is the only way to accurately gauge lb's per minnute which is why every factory turbo car (including acura) has a MAF. 

1979 Turbo trans am does not count :laugh:


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Go ahead and tune with the MAF. Just don't expect to make more than mid 400s. Show me one 1.8T car making over mid 400s with a MAF. Not saying you cannot get a more accurate tune using a MAF... Just cant make > 500 lol

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 2, 2009)

The pro-maf's UM uses can meter ~800whp without an issue.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

exactly, just because no-one has done it, doesn't mean it's not possible


----------



## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> The pro-maf's UM uses can meter ~800whp without an issue.


 thats not going to help people using VAG mafs and maestro/unitronic make more than 450. 

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

schwartzmagic said:


> thats not going to help people using VAG mafs and maestro/unitronic make more than 450.
> 
> Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2


 Well...... Then time to up the game.


----------



## Matt1023 (Oct 1, 2007)

:thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

A Big Thanks to Rac_337 :Beer:. 

The car is up and running. 

It is violent. I need to stop melting waste-gate lines. 

Heat barrier has been ordered. 

Updates to come.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Can you post up some pics of your final surge installation?


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

Nice Hooty, glad to hear... Did you get help from Rac337 with your tune or was the thanks for something else??


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> A Big Thanks to Rac_337 :Beer:.
> 
> The car is up and running.
> 
> ...


LOL :beer: i had to wrap my wastegate lines. i had a solid line for a while which was awesome too.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> Can you post up some pics of your final surge installation?


I will get a bunch of pics up of everything. The bay is still messy.



One-Eight GTI said:


> Nice Hooty, glad to hear... Did you get help from Rac337 with your tune or was the thanks for something else??


He gave me some big help with the tune. : beer:



Big_Tom said:


> LOL :beer: i had to wrap my wastegate lines. i had a solid line for a while which was awesome too.


I want to run hardlines... any idea what the precision wg thread size and pitch is?

With all the ot I am working new paint will be in store soon. 
I also need a nee bumper. The intercooler won and the bumper got the cut off wheel.
Function over looks right... : banghead:


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

so your trimming now in block 32?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Vegeta Gti said:


> so your trimming now in block 32?


Yes, I had forgot to resistor the EVAP...


----------



## Vegeta Gti (Feb 13, 2003)

nice, what did you use to resistor the evap?

funny enough i am having intermittent trimming in block 32..it was trimming today after i did some file tweaks, but i went to the store a bit ago and no more trimming...all 0.0%..bu tnow in the driveway it's trimming...i am unresistored....something is up lol


----------



## l88m22vette (Mar 2, 2006)

Why does anyone resistor anymore? Just leave the N plugged in and tuck them, no hacking needed, free as hell


----------



## boosted b5 (Nov 1, 2004)

gdoggmoney said:


> Can't. Theres a table size limit on the MAP sensor -- or at least not with "stock" ME7 memory locations. If theres a way around this, i'd love to know. I'm already over my MAP.
> 
> 
> Also, i know you have not been around much but it's been all but determined that MAFless is garbage because your stuck with an 8x8 or so table, and these systems were truly designed to be MAF based because a MAF is the only way to accurately gauge lb's per minnute which is why every factory turbo car (including acura) has a MAF.
> ...


hey meow, i still read here.

i guess ME7 is limited no matter what, but in DSM/Evo/Supra land, MAF's are non-existent in the higher power cars. 5 bar MAP's all day long. 

stupid 1.8t's :laugh:


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

i like my mafless file  HKS SSQV FAST N FURIOUS 6 b*tches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! vrooooom pssshs 8 speed eclipse neon lights y0


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

l88m22vette said:


> Why does anyone resistor anymore? Just leave the N plugged in and tuck them, no hacking needed, free as hell


lol, thats what i did. also, mafless FTW


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

*Much needed update*

Just an update on where things are. 

Still working out the idle in Maestro. 

Fueling is pretty good. Used Rac337's advice and tuned based off the manufacturer specs and actual fuel pressure. 

I ordered a new coil pack harness and 2.0t coilpacks. 

Currently I am running 21psi WG spring and MBC for 24psi. 
Getting slight wheelspin in 3rd. :thumbup:

I have yet to get up all of the pictures I keep promising. 

I wrapped and coated the CTS 'downpipe' The heat in the bay was insane. I also have lots of extra heat shielding. 

On the 3rd oil change with Rotella 15w-40 and STP treatment. 

Gas mileage is not great, around 20mpg. I am also not driving it for max fuel efficiency... 

The DLI mounts are awesome. 
I am also loving the FX400. 

I am in the market for an R32 bumper. Does anyone know if the eurospec R32 will fit with the Kinetic/CTS 750hp FMIC kit? 

I have all vac leaks taken care of. I had a major leak between the flange for the 80mm TB. 

Once I get the new harness and coils installed I am going to start spending lots of time on the tune. 
I plan on keeping the R7E's @.026.
I need to get out and take some logs and use maestro's trace feature. 
The car is going way rich when I let off the throttle. 
Rac337 I read about the same issues you had with this. 

I have the ST/LTFT within 2%. 

That is about it for now. 

I will get pics up...


----------



## Big_Tom (Aug 19, 2007)

^^ :beer::beer:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

:thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Replaced coil pack harness and added 2.0T coils. 
I am having issues with misfires. (BKR7E's ) 
I started at .035 down to .026 now. Changed plugs twice. 
The gap did not help at all. 
Misfires are only at part throttle. 

Under boost everything is fine. 

Any suggestions?


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

boosted b5 said:


> hey meow, i still read here.
> 
> i guess ME7 is limited no matter what, but in DSM/Evo/Supra land, MAF's are non-existent in the higher power cars. 5 bar MAP's all day long.
> 
> stupid 1.8t's :laugh:


 well, we have thrust sensors not real MAP sensors that's one reason


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

thoughts on the misfires?


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

I'd like to see a big log of blocks 1+31+32

Idle, cruising around, and a couple of pulls mixed in. Post it up on google docs.

Also, I'm assuming you've tested for exhaust leaks


----------



## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

groggory said:


> I'd like to see a big log of blocks 1+31+32
> 
> Idle, cruising around, and a couple of pulls mixed in. Post it up on google docs.
> 
> Also, I'm assuming you've tested for exhaust leaks


 Also fuel pressure at light loads.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> I'd like to see a big log of blocks 1+31+32
> 
> Idle, cruising around, and a couple of pulls mixed in. Post it up on google docs.
> 
> Also, I'm assuming you've tested for exhaust leaks





theswoleguy said:


> Also fuel pressure at light loads.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


 
I will work on getting these today. 

These are from a few weeks ago. 



hootyburra said:


> For anyone who wants to take a look an give advice here is a link to my current tune and logs.
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/p3ikmhltte4xx17/acM1IPP22R
> Setup is:
> CTS 3076 Kit
> ...


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Haven't had a chance to take logs yet. 

Working on a coolant issue now. 

Last night the temp light started blinking temp gauge was pegged. 

Puled the cap on the inline filler this morning and it appears dry. 

Nothing coming out of the tube running off the overflow. 

I'm going to refill and run a catch to the overflow tube to see if that is where it is going


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

took about a quart of coolant. 

STFT were -2 LTFT were -7 

I reset and adapted TB. Will try and post logs by weeks end


----------



## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

hootyburra said:


> took about a quart of coolant.
> 
> STFT were -2 LTFT were -7
> 
> I reset and adapted TB. Will try and post logs by weeks end


 hows ur afrs partial throttle? looks like ur car is running rich based on the long term fueling. def need logs though!


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

codergfx said:


> hows ur afrs partial throttle? looks like ur car is running rich based on the long term fueling. def need logs though!


 15.1 - 15.3 when cruising. 

Coolant overflow catch overflowed on the way home from work. temp gauge spiked again. 
CEL for temp sensor or thermostat. 
Going to order new ones, replace flush and fill this weekend. 
Temps have been in the single digits the past two nights when this is happening...


----------



## Trash-can (Jan 17, 2013)

Vegeta Gti said:


> nice, what did you use to resistor the evap?
> 
> funny enough i am having intermittent trimming in block 32..it was trimming today after i did some file tweaks, but i went to the store a bit ago and no more trimming...all 0.0%..bu tnow in the driveway it's trimming...i am unresistored....something is up lol


 You need to fix your ignition switch wiring


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## Trash-can (Jan 17, 2013)

codergfx said:


> hows ur afrs partial throttle? looks like ur car is running rich based on the long term fueling. def need logs though!


 Just because LTFT is in the negatives doesn't mean the car is running rich. That's what the fuel trims are for.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

I understand that im saying overall something is causing a rich condition thats why it corrects it back to normal ie. What I ment by running rich.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I think I figured out the misfires. 

SeaFoamed the car today and realized I'm missing a bolt to hold the WG to the manifold. 

The CTS kit is really starting to piss me off. 

Wishing I would have went V-Band. 

I'm going to pick up new hardware today and start fresh over the weekend. 

Stainless bolts and lockwashers or studs and nuts? 

I also think the rest of the exhasut being so tight is not helping with the vibration.


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## codergfx (Jan 11, 2009)

Ive always used studs and nuts never bolts

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

hootyburra said:


> I think I figured out the misfires.
> 
> SeaFoamed the car today and realized I'm missing a bolt to hold the WG to the manifold.
> 
> ...


Dont use stainless steel for anything with large heat cycles. Also look into getting nordlocks to hold those bishes in.


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## theswoleguy (Jan 25, 2006)

Nordlocks did not work with my cts kit I tried everything... I used stage 8 kit with tabs. They worked the best but kept blowing wg seals.

Sold the kit never looked back got a pag vband the end happy fairy tale.crowd goes wild...

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Ready to pull the CTS crap off and order a PPT or FFE. 

All I would need is the Exhaust Manifold, New hotside for the turbo and DP? 


I ended up breaking a bolt off in the hot side and can't get it out without pulling the turbo. 
Might as well pull everything else.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Hooty.. looking back now I wish I would have gone with some type of top mount t3 or twin scroll t4. Vband while theoretically is awesome has its issues too. Like if a vband flange or vband backhousing flange get warped or comes warped from precison and you have an exhaust leak... not fun. Then theres the whole bottom mount thing. PAIN IN THE ASS. Had I known what a pita I would have gotten a top mount. 

Just my $0.02 from my own experiences as I do a lot of work on my car myself. I can't stress how much of a PITA these issues have been for me in the past. NEVER AGAIN.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## Mindfault (Feb 2, 2010)

I think any manifold and a big turbo is a pita on these cars. I pull my motor to put turbo on/take it off


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

well, I am going to pull the turbo tomorrow and take it to the machine shop before i screw the threads up more trying to remove the broken bolt. Snapped a drill bit inside it too. 

I tried heat, lots of heat, and PB. 

All I can think is I put the bolt in stripped. 

I am going to add another flex section to the exhaust and make sure it lines up before I put everything back together. I also plan on moving the O2 sensor closer. Weld another bung in. 

Might add an EGT gauge also. Can this be added to the DP, withing a few inches of the turbo? 

I will not be using bolts again. Studs and NordLocks.


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## Three3Se7en (Jul 2, 2007)

Get a vband welded on at that shop.  It's what I did.


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## schwartzmagic (Apr 29, 2007)

Mindfault said:


> I think any manifold and a big turbo is a pita on these cars. I pull my motor to put turbo on/take it off


Lol fml

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

The grass always seems greener on the other side. The whole top mount thing has its inherent weaknesses as well. Namely the wastegate access and lines and access to them. I am just wrapping up a twin scroll top mount with a single wastegate with full hard lines which is basically a necessity. It's a clusterphuck down there. Servicing wastegate and lines are a pain. In all reality, you'll have at least one bolt or stud on the turbo flange that will have you cursing. Preventing things from burning up will always remain a challenge. Because of the hard lines, there is an extra connection that is a potential leaking point. The downpipe, the long runners fill up a lot of space down there so access can get difficult. A compact bottom mount setup makes so much sense and this is me servicing, manufacturing and servicing both from me and other companies.


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## halchka99 (Apr 18, 2002)

This is just the price we pay for having the turbo out back. I installed a full race turbo kit on my first evo ix in 15-20 min. It was a breeze.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I remembered using these when I had the old EMUSA kit and dealt with bolts loosening up. 

http://www.paragon-products.com/Hardware-Zinc-Plated-Nuts-p/hardware-nut-zinc.htm
The 20 pack. 
They worked great. One time use, head is crushed, once there on there on. Never loosened up on me and came off easy.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Does anyone know the length of the stud? 

30mm 32mm 35mm ....... 

I am assuming they are meant to thread into the turbo exhaust housing until they bottom out...


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Forgot I had to pull the intake housing to remove the turbo. 

It wont clear the studs without hitting the firewall. 

:banghead::facepalm:


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well the turbo is blown... Shaft play in and out side to side and loud whining. I went to drive yesterday and have no boost just a loud whine. 

How is Garret with warranty? I'm assuming it will not be covered because I had the compressor housing off to drill and tap and the exhaust housing off to have the broken stud extracted. 

What are my options for rebuild? 
It's looking like a basic rebuild will cost 350. Plus any parts. 

Anyone have recommendations?


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

hootyburra said:


> Well the turbo is blown... Shaft play in and out side to side and loud whining. I went to drive yesterday and have no boost just a loud whine.
> 
> How is Garret with warranty? I'm assuming it will not be covered because I had the compressor housing off to drill and tap and the exhaust housing off to have the broken stud extracted.
> 
> ...


http://www.honeywell.com/sites/docs/DNMDEAF6KZ3HI5AK44MTEBGQ931VCW6D50814144832398.pdf

Garrett has a 1 year warranty that seems pretty solid for defects. I'd try that first.

If you want to do the CHRA program I've heard that going through a Garrett reseller such as Pag is the way to go. Yes, that'll cost like $350ish

Good luck


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

groggory said:


> http://www.honeywell.com/sites/docs/DNMDEAF6KZ3HI5AK44MTEBGQ931VCW6D50814144832398.pdf
> 
> Garrett has a 1 year warranty that seems pretty solid for defects. I'd try that first.
> 
> ...


I believe the warranty is out. Parts shipped 2-12-12

Any more info on the CHRA program, is it just a swap? 

I will contact CTS on Monday and see what Clay recommends. 

I was looking at G-Pop, they have a rebuild for 450. 
Any feedback on them?


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

hootyburra said:


> I believe the warranty is out. Parts shipped 2-12-12
> 
> Any more info on the CHRA program, is it just a swap?
> 
> ...


Contact garrett asap to see if they'll squeeze you in on the warranty

I don't know the specifics on the chra program. But I do know your turbo is good as new when you get it back.


----------



## groggory (Apr 21, 2003)

Ive heard good things about gpop. However, garrett direct sounds better to me


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

I emailed Clay @ CTS. He was very quick to get back to me

He said I will need to send the turbo to ATP for warranty inspection.

I asked why not Honeywell, waiting on a reply


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well the turbo was sent to ATP long story short, not being warranted. $585 for a replacement. 
The car wasn't even started until July of 2012. 

Customer Problem
Statement:
Turbo failed to build pressure. Loud siren noise. Shaftplay in/out and side to side. Turbo was
installed with -4 feed line and .035" restrictor. and -10 AN return line.
Pre-disassembly
Inspection:
GT3076R turbo received (Serial# OLM 08512 P/N: 700382-5012S)with T31 4 bolt .63 A/R housing
with ported shroud on compressor housing. NO fittings.
Level 1 Disassembly: Small nicks on the compressor wheel inducer (not major). Wheel to housing interference on both
ends due to excessive bearing slop.
Internally, found bearing retainer on both sides still in tact but but turbine side retainer has loosened
up and expanded due to excessive heat. There is excessive heat exposure to the
Level 2 Disassembly:
bearing race as it has turned blue. The entire bearing cage on the turbine side was just getting
ready to let go.
Finding: 
Inadequate lubrication. We were able to confirm this by the inability to send much pressure into the
oil feed orifice as there was a severe pressure drop-off due to build-up found near entry
Cause: 
1) Help customer with repair under BB Serivce program. 2) Advise customer to examine oil supply
and replace feed system. On next round, advise not to use restrictor to ensure
Solution: 
OUR OF WARRANTY PERIOD. COURTESY DISCOUNT GIVEN ON NEW CHRA VIA BBS PRO


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Hoping to have it running again by next weekend. 

OP updated.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Well, this thread is dead... 

I am puling the second turbo to send back for warranty to ATP :banghead:

They recommended replacing the feed, drain and not running a restrictor. I did all of these. 
I also cleaned the oil cooler. 

Less then 500 miles on the rebuilt unit and it is dead. There is so much play I am going to drop the oil pan and check for bearings. 

I emailed ATP and have to send it in for warranty again. 
What could be causing this? 

Oil pressure is good, A/F ratios are in check... I feel like the tune was coming together. 
26PSI and the car is violent. 

I was driving home and lost all power, heard metal clanging and immediatley thought timing belt. 
Towed it home and pulled the intake boot, shaft play like a bobble head :facepalm:


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

Sounds like you should have just sent it to Arnold and asked for the proper oil fittings.. Then you know it's done right.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Sounds like you should have just sent it to Arnold and asked for the proper oil fittings.. Then you know it's done right.


I know I am perfectly capable of selecting proper oil fittings. I would not have thought about a build if I were worried about fittings.


----------



## seth_3515 (Dec 26, 2008)

hootyburra said:


> I know I am perfectly capable of selecting proper oil fittings. I would not have thought about a build if I were worried about fittings.


Just saying.. The turbo would have been right, you would have received correct oil restriction instructions from a well-known and trusted company.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

seth_3515 said:


> Just saying.. The turbo would have been right, you would have received correct oil restriction instructions from a well-known and trusted company.


Currently running -4 feed with no restrictor as recommended ATP and -10 return. 

Anyone care to chime in as to what could have caused the failure besides a defective turbo?


----------



## Dave926 (Mar 30, 2005)

Uhh no restrictor on a bb turbo?


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Dave926 said:


> Uhh no restrictor on a bb turbo?


 This was recommended by ATP after the first turbo was sent in for warranty. 



> Customer Problem
> Statement:
> Turbo failed to build pressure. Loud siren noise. Shaftplay in/out and side to side. Turbo was
> installed with -4 feed line and .035" restrictor. and -10 AN return line.
> ...


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

My recommendation would be to identify said 'deficiency' as if this was the case, you're harming much more then the turbo. Check oil pressure at idle and at 3k Rpms. If it checks out, you're not having problems there. Avoid hot shut downs, especially on a top mount. Allow, the coolant to strip away some heat


----------



## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Lol, to beat a dead horse you can just go full out PAG hardware hooty if you buy my stuff.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> My recommendation would be to identify said 'deficiency' as if this was the case, you're harming much more then the turbo. Check oil pressure at idle and at 3k Rpms. If it checks out, you're not having problems there. Avoid hot shut downs, especially on a top mount. Allow, the coolant to strip away some heat


 Oil pressure at idle is between 25 and 30 on a warm motor. 3k around 50psi. 
Never a hot shut down. Always baby the car for a few minutes and let it idle for a minute with the turbo timer. 
The amount of heat in this kit has worried me from day one. 
I pulled the turbo today you can see sections of what appears to be the bearing cage through the drain. I will be dropping the pan this week. 
Oil was coating the charge pipe off the turbo.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> Lol, to beat a dead horse you can just go full out PAG hardware hooty if you buy my stuff.


 Really all I need is the Mani, DP and ic pipe if I don't want to modify mine


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

I'm assuming your oil temp is fully warm when you're checking. Well, 50psi @ 3k is pretty low (min should be around 70psi). Should be plenty for the turbo, however.


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I'm assuming your oil temp is fully warm when you're checking. Well, 50psi @ 3k is pretty low (min should be around 70psi). Should be plenty for the turbo, however.


 Damn, what weight oil is this pressure at??? I'm using 5W40 Mobile one and at warm idle I only have 15-20 psi.. Can't remember what my pressure is at 3K though


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Idle is fine. Minimum should be around 1 bar w/ 5w40. But check your oil pumps ppl. At this stage and age, we've been seeing alot of worn and debris damaged ones. This is why we keep them in stock :thumbup:


----------



## One-Eight GTI (Jan 5, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Idle is fine. Minimum should be around 1 bar w/ 5w40. But check your oil pumps ppl. At this stage and age, we've been seeing alot of worn and debris damaged ones. This is why we keep them in stock :thumbup:


 Oh good, had me worried for a second... My oil pump is good, only 500 miles on it from you:thumbup:


----------



## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

One-Eight GTI said:


> Oh good, had me worried for a second... My oil pump is good, only 500 miles on it from you:thumbup:


 You're all good Brad :thumbup:


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

After watching some videos I had saved the pressure is closer to 60. Some older videos showed 75+ at higher rpms. 

I am definitely replacing the pump. 

Al can you shoot me a price with the pickup tube? 
06A Block


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)




----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

Damn hooty! Looks like your eBay snail held up better!


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Rod Ratio said:


> Damn hooty! Looks like your eBay snail held up better!


 This is a sad but true statement. 

:banghead: 

Turbo is being shipped out tomorrow. Pan will be dropped this week. 12 hour days at work that turn into 14 are hindering my garage time.


----------



## 18T_BT (Sep 15, 2005)

That's a lot of shaft play


----------



## Rod Ratio (Jun 6, 2012)

18T_BT said:


> That's a lot of shaft play


 That's what she said


----------



## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Hootyburra sits in the old vortex tree 
Merry, merry king of the vortex is he 
Laugh, Hootyburra! Laugh, Hootyburra! 
What a life you lead 

Hootyburra sits in the old vortex tree 
Merry, merry, merry little bird is he 
Sing, Hootyburra! Sing, Hootyburra! 
Sing your turbo song for me. 

Hootyburra sits in the old gum tree 
shredding all the 3076's he can see 
Stop, Hootyburra! Stop, Hootyburra! 
Leave some there for me! 

Hootyburra sits in the old gum tree 
Counting all the noobs he can see 
Stop, Hootyburra! Stop, Hootyburra! 
That’s not a noob, that is me.


----------



## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

New oil pump and pickup tube ordered. 

Also will be replacing the feed and drain. 
Oil Filter Adapter 
Can't decide on a new OEM oil cooler or aftermarket remote. 
Most likely a new radiator. 

I will most likely drill and tap the filter adapter for another port and eliminate the 42DD relocation kit. 

Clean up the PCV system with some 10AN adapters


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

The second turbo will not be warranted. 


> Hi Aaron,
> 
> We understand your position fully and we can explain it.
> 
> ...






What can be causing this?


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

what was it clogged with? silicone? metal? that could point you in the right direction. maybe a metal shaving from where the feed line threads into the filter housing or turbo?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> what was it clogged with? silicone? metal? that could point you in the right direction. maybe a metal shaving from where the feed line threads into the filter housing or turbo?


Asked that question yesterday. This is the response. 



> Aaron,
> 
> Best we can tell, it's nothing major or abrasive or metallic. It's more like build-up that goes pushed into the feeder and collected. It could also have been something that you picked up during install or handling of the parts. The extraction tool was able to drive through it and clear it right up. We can't speculate on where it came from. It's very hard to determine because the stuff say there is exposed to other things coming through and passing by.
> 
> ...


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Here are the steps ATP is recommending from happening again. 



> Aaron,
> 
> It's $581 plus shipping.
> 
> ...


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Wow man, hope this turns around for you with a new spud. Certainly makes the blood, sweat and tears that go into one of these builds seem not worth it at this point.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

screwball said:


> Wow man, hope this turns around for you with a new spud. Certainly makes the blood, sweat and tears that go into one of these builds seem not worth it at this point.


:facepalm: I know. 

Turbo will be rebuilt again and sent out this week.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Pulled the pan yesterday


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## MKIII_96 (Nov 25, 2006)

Whats that? Anything that runs through ur turbo should be filtered alteady no?


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

MKIII_96 said:


> Whats that? Anything that runs through ur turbo should be filtered alteady no?


That was my thought. 

My assumption would be this debris was clogging the pickup tube causing low oil pressure. 

Can any experts chime in?


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

That looks suspicioulsy look oil pump chain tensioner material.

How does your plastic tensioner look? 

You find that stuff in VR6 oil pick up tubes as the chain tensioners shed it from high rpm use with poor oil, or just high RPM use.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

gdoggmoney said:


> That looks suspicioulsy look oil pump chain tensioner material.
> 
> How does your plastic tensioner look?
> 
> You find that stuff in VR6 oil pick up tubes as the chain tensioners shed it from high rpm use with poor oil, or just high RPM use.


The tensioner looked fine I did not see anything alarming. I will take a few pics for the more experienced eyes to look at.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Looks like the shaft seal on your previous turbo. As for the black, looks like excess gasket sealant or could be your return line breaking down from heat.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Looks like the shaft seal on your previous turbo. As for the black, looks like excess gasket sealant or could be your return line breaking down from heat.



I had also though it could have from the old turbo. 

I inspected the return line and it looked to be fine. It was covered in fire sleeve. 
I will still be installing brand new return and feed lines. 

Al when installing a new oil pump, do you loosen/ take the sprocket, this looks like the only way without taking tension off the chain.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2008)

Yes, its easier to take the sprocket off. I do manage to put it on without doing so but its not something that you can explain how to do.


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## hootyburra (Feb 19, 2007)

Need to start working on the car again. 
It has been sitting with the pan off for to long. 

Have the new oil pump waiting to go in. Need to start scraping the old RTV off the pan.


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## cah73 (Apr 13, 2007)

Any progress? winter is fast approaching!


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## screwball (Dec 11, 2001)

Sell it and buy a quad Hooty, we can link up and ride at Treverton. A 50hp quad is easy compared to something like this and would reasonable price wise + it's a ton of fun.


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

Hootyburra do what now? How is turbo formed? Where do turbo come from?

What happened man?


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## [email protected] Performance (Sep 17, 2013)

gdoggmoney said:


> Hootyburra do what now? How is turbo formed? Where do turbo come from?
> 
> What happened man?


Is this a haiku Gary? :laugh:


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## gdoggmoney (Feb 21, 2004)

^_^


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