# DIY: Clutch, Flywheel ans Slave Cylinder Replacement on Audi TT 225



## DerBassSpieler (May 12, 2008)

*DIY: Clutch, Flywheel and Slave Cylinder Replacement on Audi TT 225*

This DIY is correct to the best of my knowledge. I did my best to remember sizes of wrenches I used, though some may be off by a mm or two.

Before you start:
•	Make sure you have all the tools you need. Have a magnetic wand available for fetching parts 

•	Make sure you have all the parts and fluids that you’ll need.

•	Disassembly took me a 10 hours, but I did most by myself with hand tools. Reassembly was faster.

•	Park the car in a suitable place. I chose a spot in my garage with a rafter above, so I could use it to help support components using a rachet strap. This was one of the MOST HELPFUL things I could have done for myself.

•	Make sure the e-brake is on and the transmission is in neutral.

•	Reassembly notes are in italics.

•	Reference these other write-ups as needed for removal and assembly:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4045505-Transmission-Removal-Clutch-Replacement-diy-Quick-Version
***VERY HELPFUL and what I followed***

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3930259-1-8T-02m-Clutch-DIY

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2703042

http://www.mikegabriel.net/vw/bentley/mk4/3%20Clutch,%20Transmission,%20and%20Final%20Drive/34%20Manual%20Transmission.pdf

•	Reference these pages for clutch system bleeding and transmission fluid filling:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5315863-02M-Slave-Cylinder-Bench-Bleeding-Procedure
http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/maintenance_items/transmission_oil
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4376420
http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?4426025-DIY-MK4-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Replacement-%285-and-6-Speed%29&p=80733851#post80733851
Post #8

Bleeding 02M (6-speed) Transmission Slave Cylinder
•	Connect pressure bleeder to clutch hydraulic system: one end of bleed hose to collection bottle, other end of bleed hose to bleeder valve on bleeder coupling
•	Pressurize system to 2bar (30psi) with pressure bleeder
•	Open bleeder valve and Bleed off approximately 100cc 
•	Close bleeder valve
•	Quickly pump clutch pedal 10 to 15 times
•	Open bleeder valve then Bleed off an additional 50cc
•	Close bleeder valve
•	Pump clutch pedal several times after completing process
•	Check and top off hydraulic brake fluid in master cylinder reservior as needed

*Now, let’s begin this clutch job!*

1.	Loosen the lug nuts (17mm) and the main axle bolt on each side (17mm hex).

2.	Remove all plastic engine covers from the top of the engine bay.

3.	Remove the intake (5?mm hex, flat head) and disconnect the wire to the MAF.





4.	Remove the battery and battery tray completely.
a.	10mm for battery terminals, 13mm for the bracket on the front that holds down the battery.
b.	10mm for one bolt in front, two in back holding on the sides of the tray. 
c.	Pop the fuse block loose and pry back the cover over the wires leading from it.
d.	Torx wrench to remove the four bolts holding the base of the battery tray in place.













5.	Remove intake hose between manifold and intercooler (flat head).





6.	Disconnect the shift cables. Just pry back the little spring-loaded clip. _If you lose or damage one, an E-clip can be used in place of them. _





7.	Remove the shift cable bracket (13mm), two bolts on the top of the transmission and a nut onto one of the bolts holding transmission to the engine. 





8.	Remove the transmission ground cable (13mm). The nut is on the next bolt forward that holds the transmission to the engine.





9.	Safely raise the entire vehicle to maximum jack stand height. I recommend keeping the front stands on the ~6” wide sections of the body that is reinforced, just aft of the subframe.

10.	Remove both front wheels (17mm).

11.	Remove the plastic belly pan (Torx) and the two side engine covers. Passenger side uses 10mm bolts, driver’s side uses push on clips that need to be pried back.
a.	Driver’s side also has the power steering hardline attached to it from the inside facing toward the driver’s fender (10mm).

12.	Drain the transmission fluid (17mm hex) from the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission.
_a.	Refilling the transmission may require a special tool to remove the fill plug. Since the fill plug has a large shoulder, I instead used a pair of vicegrips. Be sure to get a new crush washer. You are filled once fluid starts leaking out the fill whole (~2.7L)._

13.	Undo the headlight leveler if equipped (10mm).





14.	Remove the bolt holding the power steering line on the driver’s side of the transmission (10mm).





15.	Remove the intercooler cross pipe.
a.	Power steering line holders (2x 10mm middle).




b.	Hose clamps (flat head).
c.	Pipe supports (3x 15?mm per side).









16.	Remove the plastic cover holding the wires above starter.
a.	Note: It may be helpful to remove the clutch bleeder valve first, so skip ahead if the space is too tight.
b.	Held onto the top starter bolt (13mm nut). Annoying to get to; use 6+ inches extention.
c.	Unclip the obvious large connector on top of this cover. 
d.	Unclip connector from the starter and for reverse switch (on transmission).
e.	Slip the wires through the side of the connector as you pull it off.
f.	Get all the wires in place before trying to put the nut back on.





17.	Remove the starter.
a.	Remove bracket for power steering line on the lower starter bolt and on the tab hanging off the transmission (13&14mm). This tab can break easily, so support the nut with a wrench while unscrewing the bolt!




b.	Remove plastic cover and nut underneath it that holds main power wire (13mm).
c.	Remove the two bolts holding the starter on (3” extension + deep 18?mm), pull them out, then the starter out.









18.	The power steering lines should be loose now, so pull them aside as needed to access other things.

19.	Empty, then disconnect the bleeder and line from the slave cylinder (small flat head).
a.	This sits cozily between the transmission and where the starter/plastic wire cover were.
b.	Use a section of hose to collect fluid in a container and remove excess from reservoir using a syringe.
c.	Note: Don’t lose the spring clip after you pry it up. They cannot be purchased separately! I ended up having to fashion one out of a key ring…
d.	Pull hose and bleeder towards the driver’s fender to keep it out of the way.
_e.	Perform bleeding using the directions given at the beginning with a pressure bleeder. Any other way will lead you to an early grave!_

20.	Unplug the connector on the back side of the transmission from above (needle nose pliers).





21.	Unbolt the ball joints from the control arms (3x 16 or 17mm per side).





22.	Remove both CV shafts (10mm 12-point triple square and 17mm hex).
a.	Undo the main axle bolts first.
b.	In order to get to all the bolts easily, you will need to periodically rotate the shaft. Just grab the rotor and rotate.
c.	To hold the CV shafts still, place some lug nuts back in place, then use a long rod between those bolts and against the ground to prevent rotation for the moment.
d.	To fully remove them, make sure to pop the ball joints you loosened out of place and turn the steering as needed.
e.	Don’t leave the shields behind. You’ll know because you’ll see into the joints otherwise.





23.	Remove the driver’s side CV flange (6mm hex).
_a.	You will have to overcome some spring pressure before the flange will be seated well enough for the bolt to thread in place. _

24.	Remove the passenger side CV flange center bolt (6mm hex).
a.	This requires a good 8-12 inches of extension to achieve. Normal hex keys will not fit. All sockets and extensions must be of the ¼” variety. 
b.	Without removing this bolt, the transfer case will not separate from the transmission at the later stage!
_c.	This bolt will not thread unless the transfer case is completely reattached to the transmission already._





25.	Remove the CV shaft shield on passenger side (3x 13mm).
a.	Extensions are your friend!





26.	Support the engine from above and below at this stage. 
a.	Below: Jack with a piece of 2x4 across the oil pan.
b.	Above: rachet strap from rafter to the driver’s side support loop.





27.	Remove the dog bone engine support (13mm, 16?mm).
a.	Note: engine can now pivot slightly front to back.
_b.	Replacing these stretch bolts with new ones is critical. Tighten them only once you are sure you will not have to loosen them again_.





28.	Loosen the bolts holding the transfer case on.
a.	Please note that on some cars, these are regular bolts (16mm), but that on cars like mine, hex key must be used (8mm), which is much more annoying.
b.	The bottom ones are easy to see and get to. Use a swivel if you must.
c.	The top ones are hard to find, but they mirror the bottom ones. Use at least 6 inches of extension to reach these. You can see them more easily from above. An assistant’s guidance can be useful here.









29.	Remove transfer case-to-engine bracket (16?mm, 13mm).





30. Unbolt the transfer case completely.
a.	Gently pry the transfer case away from the transmission.
b.	Once there’s at least an inch gap, you are past the splined shaft and the transfer case should pull out relatively easy as the right time comes.
_c.	Repositioning the transfer case correctly in coordination with the transmission can be achieved by putting the car in gear, then spinning the passenger CV flange while sliding it into place.
d.	The transfer case must be about ½ inch from transmission using only hand pressure if you want to be able to trust it to line up correctly.
e.	Equally tighten the four bolts in turn. DO NOT force them!
f.	It is essential to replace the 3 O-rings on the transfer case before re-assembly.
g.	The CV flange will turn as long as everything is aligned right. If it doesn’t, try again._





31.	Support transmission with a rachet strap from above around the driver side of it if you can. This makes rotating the transmission during removal much easier.

32.	Loosen all 7 transmission securing bolts (16 mm?, Torx).
a.	Two on top that had the ground cable and shifter linkage attached to their smaller studs, one back next to the base of the transfer case facing the opposite direction of all the others, two on the bottom and two on the front (one of which is a Torx bolt going to a nut rather than the engine block).

















33.	Support the transmission from below with a separate hydraulic jack.
a.	Never leave the transmission unsupported. You could possibly bend the input shaft.





34.	Remove the driver side engine mount (16mm, 18mm).
a.	Loosen them all (5 total), then remove the larger stretch bolts, then the others.
b.	_Remember, the stretch bolts are one-time use, so replace them and have everything correct before tightening them!_





35.	Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine.

36.	Move the trombone-shaped power steering line above the transmission as best you can, so it won’t be in your way when it comes time to move the transmission.

37.	Slide the transmission input shaft off the clutch by wiggling it toward the driver’s side.
a.	This is not nearly as easy as it sounds. It’ll take a while, and you may have some clearance issues.
_b.	This step is easier if you took care to align the clutch disk well. You may have to rotate the engine via a wrench (19mm?) on the passenger end of the crankshaft (in the center of the accessory pulley) to get the teeth to line up.
c.	Be sure that the transmission and engine are in line with one another, so that the shaft can slide in without any angle._

38.	Remove the transmission by lowering it out of the car. This is also not nearly as easy as it sounds, so here are some tips:
a.	You will save yourself lots of time and possible damage by removing or at least sliding the subframe backwards so that the back end of the transmission can easily clear it. I didn’t do this. That’s why it took me waaaaay too long to coordinate the transmission removal.
b.	The big hang up is getting the back end of the transmission past the subframe and hard powersteering lines bolted to it. I nearly punctured my lines by having the transmission rub against them so hard. Avoid this as best you can. 




c.	Lowering and raising the engine and transmission may help you get the angle you need to get the transmission out. Also, pulling the engine forward in the engine compartment (using a rachet strap to some object) may be useful in gaining clearance.




d.	The most promising technique I used from what I can remember _(and only on the way back in as I had had more time to think about it) _ 
is as follows:
i.	Pull the transfer case out of the transmission by pulling it towards the passenger side and rotating it upward (counterclockwise looking from the front of the car).
ii.	Rotate the entire transmission counterclockwise about 45 degrees or so (when looking from the driver side inward). This will give you the clearance you need to get around the subframe, but will make things tight at the front end, where the shift mechanism may come into contact with other components.
iii.	Drop it down a bit and get the edge of the bell housing around the clutch and pressure plate. This is a tight squeeze, and the flywheel teeth may drag on the bell housing, but you are replacing it anyway, right?
_e.	Do your best not to drag the input shaft across the pressure plate upon installation, as you risk damaging either component.
f.	Concentrate on getting the back end in place first, then pay attention to the front end. Having the clutch assembly sitting at least partially within the bell housing may help with this.
g.	Use the bolt holes to reference the transmission to its finial position.
h.	Be sure the new o-rings are on the transfer case before connecting it to the transmission._





39.	Remove the slave cylinder (3 x 10mm).
_a.	Be sure the cylinder has been bench bled before installing it. I left a 3” section of tube filled with fluid and a plug in it on the cylinder during installation of the transmission. No need to introduce air at this stage._

40.	Remove the pressure plate (6 x 13?mm bolts).
a.	Hold the pressure plate from rotating by putting a breaker bar on the opposite end of the crank shaft and pinning it against something.
b.	Pry gently as needed.
_c.	Be sure to use the clutch alignment tool to align the clutch before tightening the pressure plate all the way down._





41.	Slide off the clutch disk if it didn’t come out with the pressure plate.

42.	Remove the flywheel (6 x 12mm triple square 12-point bolts).
a.	Pry gently as needed.





43.	You are completely disassembled! Hopefully you’ve got your beer on deck ready to go 


*Torque specs and part numbers (from xbluewaterx):*

_Note: These are appropriate for the TT. Also, do not change your crankshaft seal unless it is leaking._

Clutch Plate, Pressure Plate and Slave Cylinder: 
LUK part # 02040
Dual Mass Flywheel:
LUK part # DMF032
Stretch bolts for dogbone mount and drivers side engine mount 
​(Drivers Side Engine Mount N 102 096 03 x2) 
​(Dogbone Mount n 102 683 02 X2 N 102 466 04 X1 N 905 970 02 x1)
Replace seals/o rings between transmission and transfer case:
​02M 409 203 & N 904 837 01 & N 028 222 2

Engine to Transmission and Transmission to Transfer case
1. M12 Bolts - 80NM
2. M10 Bolts 45NM
Transmission Mount to Transmission
1: 50NM + 90degree turn
Transmission Mount to Chassis
1. 100NM
Pressure Plate to Dual Mass Flywheel
1. 22NM


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## DerBassSpieler (May 12, 2008)

Also, here's where I got ,my parts from, after shopping around for best prices:

Clutch and Flywheel:
http://www.rockauto.com

Stretch bolts:
http://www.germanautoparts.com

Seals:
The dealership...

Gear oil and brake fluid:
NAPA autoparts. They sell Pentosin brand fluids and other high quality fluids that you can't get at the other autoparts stores.


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## Converted2VW (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks for posting this!

this is an amazing amount of work! :beer: :thumbup:


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## DerBassSpieler (May 12, 2008)

No problem! I hope it gets put to use. I figured something TT-specific should be out there. Never hurts to have extra pics available either


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Great write-up! I just finished this job, and I was wondering: just below the one torx bolt in the bell housing, what is supposed to go there? I noticed that the hole is empty in your shots, but I swear I had a hex bolt there doing something when I started mine. I have no leftover bolts now, but there's nothing in that spot.

The ratchet straps were a great idea. I was stuck until I went out and bought a set. No way I would have attempted this outdoors, either.

Also, my transfer case-to-engine bracket was much different than both yours and the R32 one. Funny, since I have a 2001 225 QC. I didn't think they'd be that different.

I also wanted to mention that I thought all was lost when the jack supporting my engine slid out from under the oil pan. Luckily, the engine only dropped about five inches and I was able to jack it back up with no harm to the car (that I can tell). I wouldn't be suprised if my exhaust suffers down the road, though.


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## DerBassSpieler (May 12, 2008)

lite1979 said:


> Great write-up! I just finished this job, and I was wondering: just below the one torx bolt in the bell housing, what is supposed to go there? I noticed that the hole is empty in your shots, but I swear I had a hex bolt there doing something when I started mine. I have no leftover bolts now, but there's nothing in that spot.


So, I just took a look at mine. That hole is also empty. I wonder if maybe it is used during the assembly process at the plant or something. Either way, if something was supposed to be there, it's not too important since that would mean I've been driving without it for 3 months. Glad you found the write up useful though, and yeah, the straps make everything easier. Out of curiosity, did you undo the subframe? And if not, how did you go about finagling the transmission out, and was your technique something similar to what I had suggested?


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

I unbolted the subframe and moved it back a few inches. I was working by myself for the most part, and I tried and tried to bench press that differential part of the tranny up far enough to get it out, but I could not. I've used that technique before on mk1-mk4 fwd cars with much success, but the O2M was just too heavy and awkward on my own.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk


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## RabbitGTDguy (Jul 9, 2002)

Just did this...

Highly recommend bench bleeding of the slave. The process was easy, and made the final bleed at the bleeder block even easier. Have heard too many horror stores of slaves, their being a pain to bleed and air in the system. 

Joe


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Bravo! For what it's worth, I broke one of my retaining clips when removing the bleeder block as well, so I used the one I had left to make one out of a key ring. Then I lost the one good one I had left, so I have two home made retaining clips on my bleeder block. My friend Ben helped me bleed the clutch first, then I asked my girlfriend to do it a few times just to be safe. It wasn't bad at all.

I should mention that the clutch slipped yesterday when accelerating in sixth gear on the highway, but I'm only 240 miles into my 500 mile break-in period, so I'm hoping it will grab better after that. I've been taking it easy so far.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk


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## lite1979 (Sep 9, 2005)

Bumping this thread because I figured out why my clutch was slipping: leaking rear main seal. I'll be doing it all over again in a few days.


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## AceOfSpades (Feb 26, 2003)

I just put my trans back in


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