# 1.8 8v need enigne help!



## slavik19 (Feb 9, 2010)

hey guys i picked up a 86 wolfburg GLi witha 8v 1.8

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2331009050.html

guy said it was smoking so he decided to change the rings.
he said he replaced the 
"Replaced timing belt and tensioner, head gasket, valver cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust gasket, valves, lifters, valve stem seals, injector rings, oil pan gasket, oil pump, crank bearings, and piston rings"

wont start. checked the timing according to the haynes repair manual.
cam sprocket mark aligned with the valve cover on the front of the engine and the mark on the tranny lined up. ignition pattern 1342 going around on the distributor.

he said there was compression spark fuel was getting in.
fuel does theres spark i got a compression tool it only reading about 60 pounds and 40 in the last cylinder. 

rings affect the compression how about timing and the valves?

what should i check for?

any advice id appreciate 

im using the search button the best i can. going thro faqs.


thanks guys


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

which dot on the cam sprocket is lined up? i always make the mistake of lining up the dot on the outside of the sprocket. It's the inside one that faces the valve cover that you time. after timing it, have you tried spinning it around once to make sure everything is still lined up?

you didn't mention im shaft timing. I'm assuming that's timed? have you checked that the rotor also lines up roughly at the notch?

for compression testing, did you have the throttle wide open? have you tried flooring it while cranking? how about a shot of starting fluid?


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## slavik19 (Feb 9, 2010)

ziddey said:


> which dot on the cam sprocket is lined up? i always make the mistake of lining up the dot on the outside of the sprocket. It's the inside one that faces the valve cover that you time. after timing it, have you tried spinning it around once to make sure everything is still lined up?
> 
> you didn't mention im shaft timing. I'm assuming that's timed? have you checked that the rotor also lines up roughly at the notch?
> 
> for compression testing, did you have the throttle wide open? have you tried flooring it while cranking? how about a shot of starting fluid?


thanks for the reply./

mhm i assumed the tranny would align the crankshaft i didnt even check that.
what exactly do i aligne the crankshaft with? what dots? what pully

staring fluid no luck. yea tried like tht aswell no luck.


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## ziddey (Apr 16, 2006)

The flywheel and crank should both get you to TDC. I'm not positive, but I think it might be possible to install the flywheel in an improper orientation, maybe at least if it was lightened/resurfaced and any guide pin removed.

As for the im shaft, line up the notches on both crank and im sprockets together.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

slavik19 said:


> . . . it only reading about 60 pounds and 40 in the last cylinder.
> 
> rings affect the compression how about timing and the valves?
> 
> what should i check for?


That is real low compression. Too low for it to start? Can't say for sure but darn low. It is hard to say just what the problem or problems are, but you are going to have to tackle this one head on from base one. Forget anything for now about fuel or ignition and find out why the compression is in the toilet. Check the engine timing (that's not ignition timing) super good. Follow a manual real close and ste the engine timing up from scratch. That means remove the timing belt and start like it is a new rebuilt engine. 

If by timing you mean ignition timing, when asking about it effecting the compression, no. The engine could care less if the ignition timing is right or wrong when it sucks in air and compresses it. It may not start or run good with it off, but the compression will still be there. Valves are a different story. They can be bent, burnt or out of time with the crankshaft. That's why the suggestion, start with knowing 100% that the engine is set up (timed) correctly. Then when you are so sure you would bet your life on it and the compression is still super low, you can move on.


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## A1peopleS2wagons (Dec 2, 2010)

ziddey said:


> The flywheel and crank should both get you to TDC. I'm not positive, but I think it might be possible to install the flywheel in an improper orientation, maybe at least if it was lightened/resurfaced and any guide pin removed.
> 
> As for the im shaft, line up the notches on both crank and im sprockets together.


The fly wheel has a off set bolt pattern.It goes on one way.
Toss the haynes away and acquire a bently manual.
Hayne's is like a shoot in the dark,the bently is more like the factory scientist wrote it.









> fuel does there's spark i got a compression tool it only reading about 60 pounds and 40 in the last cylinder.


Ok squirt some oil in the cylinder and retest.If temporarly goes up the rings,if it stays the 
same it's in the valves.
What are the pressures all the way across?


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## slavik19 (Feb 9, 2010)

i pulled the car around trying to push start it. 
couple runs it ran at LOW rpm wouldent go over 2300 drove 5-10mpgh. checked the compression again cylinder 1 100-110 2 same 3 150 4 120 pounds
hm..


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

A1peopleS2wagons said:


> The fly wheel has a off set bolt pattern.It goes on one way.
> Toss the haynes away and acquire a bently manual.Hayne's is like a shoot in the dark,the bently is more like the factory scientist wrote it.


The flywheel does not have any "off-set" bolt pattern. The holes for the bolts are evenly spaced and the pressure plate has about three times as many threaded holes as are required. It is very possible to put it on wrong (did it once myself). The pressure plate has a slight spacing difference on one bolt hole which matches the same pattern on the crankshaft flange.

There is nothing wrong with a Haynes manual if you do not want to pay the price for a Bentley. Haynes manuals can be found to download free on the Internet also. The Bentley has mistakes in it just like any printed media but it does have some better coverage in some areas than the Haynes. As long as you are not mechanically illiterate and don't plan to get to serious about working on the car a Haynes is more than fine. Even better would be to have both as I find some things in the Haynes is more clear or better written.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

slavik19 said:


> . . . it ran at LOW rpm wouldent go over 2300 drove 5-10mpgh. checked the compression again cylinder 1 100-110 2 same 3 150 4 120 pounds


Have you checked the engine timing and are you sure it is 100% correct? From the sound of things the engine timing was never set correctly when all this work was done. If the engine timing is off it causes the valves to open either early or late depending on which way the mistake was made. That can/will give give you low compression and cause the other issues you describe. You have to start there first to be sure it is not the issue as it will never run right if that is set wrong, never.


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## Esevw (Dec 27, 2002)

Here is a picture of what the timing marks and locations are on an 8v, first one is camshaft aligned to valve cover and the other is crankshaft aligned with internediate shaft. Hope this helps


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## OWVW (May 3, 2011)

*Crank 180 out*

Everyone forgets to tell you that the crank travels two rotations in relation to the other parts. Pull your #1 plug and put a straw in it, turn the motor until the straw comes all the way up. There is your TDC. now align your other marks. Should fire, let it warm up then set timming.
MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO VAC. LEAKS. Good luck.


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## Sevenhornets (Mar 29, 2010)

*1.8 8V need engine help adivisory board.*

If the low lock pause compensator valve is run all the way out then you need to replace the load generator. If that doesn't fix it then check the rev limit dampening sensor. If that is good then scroll through the microhasp lock circuit for missing logic. If that checks out then fire a low voltage (36V) signal through the wisk opening looking for a "return mode valid" light. If that fails, replace the fluid flow trickle flowback valve. And if at any time the "run high mixing unit" fails to cycle, replace the internal controller gate valve timimg operating systems mechanical drive unit. If that fails to remedy the issue replace the passive pressure relief valve torque clasp null sensor. (Its not in the published manuals. But it's located just under rotary linear actuating pivot assembly.) If you have have questions please contact "Waterwheels" on Vortex for technical assistance. I used this advice on my MK-VIII Yugo and it worked out awesome. He claims he worked with Yugo engineering on the developmental program. So he should know.. But if he cant fix it we might want to ask the Shell man. Cause he's got answers!!!! If he cant help you buy a VW.


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## WaterWheels (Aug 14, 2005)

OWVW said:


> Everyone forgets to tell you that the crank travels two rotations in relation to the other parts.


I don't think anyone "forgot" to mention this fact, I just don't see where it is relative to the situation? Before the timing belt is installed that two-for-one thing does not apply. Once the belt is in place then for some tests or adjustments you may have to keep that in mind though.



Sevenhornets said:


> . . . If you have have questions please contact "Waterwheels" on Vortex for technical assistance. I used this advice on my MK-VIII Yugo and it worked out awesome. He claims he worked with Yugo engineering on the developmental program. So he should know.. But if he cant fix it we might want to ask the Shell man . . .


Now just why did you have to include me in your sarcastic ranting? If I start getting a bunch of people calling me to help with their Yugo problems I am going to get even


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