# MKV brake noob here, help me out!



## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

Hello all!

I have a friend that wants me to do his brakes on his 2008 TDI, and I would just like some input on how it is done, couldnt seem to find a DIY anywhere. I have done brakes on MKIVs probably 100 times, so if it is very similar to that platform it should be a breeze. But if someone who has done it a few times could chime in here and give me some insight on what kinda time im looking at.

Do the rear calipers need to spin in just like MKIVs? 
Also, how much would a dealership charge for it, using say... a mid-grade semi-metallic pad? He is curious....

Thanks in advance!


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## Elwood (Aug 10, 2001)

Yes, the rear pistons need to be screwed back into the calipers. The only thing that can be a PITA is getting the rear calipers off. You need a size 14 triple square and those things are tight (most likely loctite from the factory). Other than that, its just like any other car. With ABS. That you need to cycle if there is air in the lines. With VAG-COM. If you're just flushing the fluid and there isn't any air, you don't need to worry about the ABS pump or VAG-COM.

Price at the dealer? Too much, I'm sure. Midas would probably do a better job.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

Couple of things to watch out for....rear caliper carrier bolts are 14mm triple square and hella tight..cuz they are "stretch torqued one time use bolts"...so buy a set of 4 from dealer ONLY IF YOU ARE CHANGING REAR ROTORS! The caliper mounts are the same as earlier VW...guide pins that need to be cleaned and relubed with "synthetic caliper grease" (rear guide pin lock bolts are factory coated with "loctite" and manual says to replace em, I just clean and put some loctitie blue on there)....If you are changing rear rotors...get the smallest 14mm triple square bit you can find...I had a Snap On one from doing my front suspension..and it was useless...rear suspension parts get in the way...I bought a real small one from "Metal Nerd" website and it worked great (cost way less than SnapOn too). 
Other thing that's different on the MKV's is brake bleeding sequence!...On all my previous cars...VW's all the way back to the orginal bug...bleed sequence was RR, LR, RF, LF....
MKV Bleeding squence is LF, RF, LR, RR!...not sure why..but it's right there in the Bentley...Also, manual says to do two step bleed...using power bleeder (or suction bleeder as I do) in the above sequence...then a final round of "old school" pedal pump bleeding (5 X per wheel)...I have always done that cuz I feel it moves the caliper pistons a little and get all the air/crud outa there..guess VW thinks the same since the require it now. :thumbup:
PS: Torque specs: front guide pins: 22 ft lb, rear guide pin locking bolts: 26 ft lb rear carrier mtg bolts: 66 ft + 1/4 turn more (that's the stretch torque and it takes alot to get it..I used pipe cheater on my breaker bar), front carrier mtg bolts: 140 ft lb, wheel lugs 90 ft lb.


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

Is there I reason I would need to bleed the brakes? I've never bled them when doing pads or rotors on my previous cars, not unless I am taking a line off, which I do not plan on doing...

Dealership wants $750 before tax, and another place nearby wants $750 before tax as well. And thats for all 4 corners pads and rotors installed, estimated time 2 hours. 


Now there is talks of just doing the pads, in which case would take less time and cost less money. Still confused on the bleeding part, I dont plan on doing that. Dont have a power bleeder and I don't have VAGCOM, although I will need it to re-set the brake pad light. I can get ahold of one.


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## Elwood (Aug 10, 2001)

Brake fluid is hygroscopic - it likes to absorb water. Water + calipers = corrosion and stuck pistons. It should be flushed every couple of years.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

You got the car up, wheels off..ez access to bleeder screws..brake fluid costs about $10-20 to do a flush (I use VW DOT 4+ OEM fluid 'cuz local dealer has Vortex discount and sells me 500ml can for about $5 or so..you need 1 ltr/qt to do proper flush). No need for power bleeder..just do ol fashion "pump" bleeds (Bentley manual reccomends doing 5/wheel of these anyway..so just do more till you get clear fluid from each bleeder screw). I use old turkey baster (you can use the new one from the kitchen but the cook gets a bit pissed off...) to suck out most of old fluid..then refill MC..this speeds up getting clean fluid out in the system. After every 5 pumps or so check MC..most important NOT to let it go dry..that's where you get air into ABS and need VAG COM to cycle it to get air back out...but if you keep fluid up..no problems.:thumbup:


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## phukenvr6 (Mar 11, 2009)

i was going to try doing mine, got some rotors and pads took a look at where the bolts are and gave up.. i called this place to do it and he said no. something about needing a computer to get the caliper off? i assume he means vag com? but im sure places like monroe dont have that. is it really that hard to do brakes on these or what?


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## Elwood (Aug 10, 2001)

Its easy. Its the same as any other car. You don't need a VAG-COM unless you let air get into the system by disconnecting a brake line or something. Even then, unless you suck air into the ABS pump, you should be fine. The only problem people have is getting the rear calipers off. Those 14mm triple squares can be a PITA.


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## phukenvr6 (Mar 11, 2009)

so as long as i can get an air ratchet or something in there i should be able to do it? and the rotors just take that small screw out and thats it? do i need to buy new caliper bolts? or will they go back in?


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

I cant imagine that the triple squares would be any harder than the hex ones on the MKIV, those were a paaaain as well. I think as long as you get the bit in there, and get a good breaker bar you should be fine. But if you have a air ratchet go ahead and use that!


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## phukenvr6 (Mar 11, 2009)

FlybyGLI said:


> I cant imagine that the triple squares would be any harder than the hex ones on the MKIV, those were a paaaain as well. I think as long as you get the bit in there, and get a good breaker bar you should be fine. But if you have a air ratchet go ahead and use that!


did u end up doing the ones on ur friends car?


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

phukenvr6 said:


> did u end up doing the ones on ur friends car?


I am doing them on Friday. He said he'd pay me like $150 to do them so I cant refuse!

I ordered a 14mm triple square from Oreilly, it should be here tomorrow some time. Other than that, I am just going to borrow some tools from my shop and do it at home in my garage. I will probly freeze my ass off but whatever. If all goes smoothly it should only take a couple hours. I will be renting a caliper reset tool from Oreilly as well. Looks like the front calipers are almost the same as the MKIV calipers.

It's a 2008 so I cant imagine that there is much corrosion on the brake parts. But I think he said it has like 150k on it.. WOW


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

Only VW brakes where you need a VAG com to change the rear pads is the B6 Passat with the electronic parking brake..you need to instruct the car to retract the pads...then just squeeze em the rest of the way with std C clamp...other VW's use the mechanical e brake and MUST use a rotating retraction tool to reset the e brake adjuster as you retract piston. The 14mm triple square bolts aren't comin loose with an air ratchet...impact gun maybe if you can get a straight shot at em..suspension interference makes working space tight. The stretch torquing them back (see my previous post for specs) takes some serious "grunt"...that last 1/4 turn! I marked the bolts after doing the initial torque with the torque wrench..then put another mark 1/4 turn away...got out my trusty HD breaker bar and a piece of pipe and went at it. If you're workin off jackstands not a lift...get the back end of the car really up there so you can get a long lever arm to do that torquin!


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

Ok, so heres another question. Tried calling oreilly for the rotors, and in their system they dont even have a 2008 TDI listed, only the 2.5 and the 2.0T... Any idea what size rotors and pads I will need. If they cant look it up how to I go about getting them?

But they do have parts listed for a 2009 2.0 TDI...

I are confused.


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## Elwood (Aug 10, 2001)

Should be the same as the 2.5, but I'd confirm with the dealer. Try a few online parts houses and see what their listings reflect (ECS, MJM, etc).


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

I think I figured it out. Looked through some of the MKV tech guides on here and apparently they are 288mm vented in the front and 260mm solid in the rear. 

So looks like about $160 for all 4 (OE blanks) and about $80-90 for semi-metallic OE pads.

not too bad I guess. Im doing all the work for $120. So... saving about $500 compared to the dealer.


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## spitpilot (Feb 14, 2000)

I checked and got conflicting info...I'd suggest you send email to Zeb @ 1stVW parts..give him your vin and ask him to confirm correct brake rotors for your car..knows his stuff has helped me out with some upgrades (sway bars, brakes etc.) on my Rabbit...:thumbup:


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