# DIY: Airlift front strut upper plate rebuild



## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Didn't see a DIY anywhere, and even though it is super simple i thought i would do a little writeup about it. Should take the average person 5 minutes and is a 2/10 difficulty rating because of the circlip.

WHY YOU WOULD WANT TO DO THIS

















TOOLS
1/4" Allan bolt (preferably with socket adapter)
3/4" box wrench
Flathead screw driver

PARTS
Airlift rebuild kit

























PROCEDURE 

Alright i am going to do this in the most educational sense, how to put it together because this is where you will screw up. Most of the DIY's do a writeup about tearing it down but maybe i'm a bit strange. I just figure that this way people are more inclined to learn about what they are doing and WHY they are doing it.

*1*
This is the strut with the top completely off.









*2*
Add thin flat plastic washer. This part is meant as a low friction surface for the top plate to turn on. Without this piece there would be twice as much friction when you tried to turn.









*3*
Add lower plate holder. This piece keeps the metal mounting plate in the center and keeps it easy to turn. There is a top piece also which is identical, the metal plate gets sandwiched between these two :thumbup:









*4*
Add plate. Tight(ish) tolerences keep the upper plate aligned and keep a small layer of grease between the plates and the metal.









*5*
Upper sandwich plate. Put this facedown as shown so that it helps keep the metal plate aligned. 









*6*
Add circlip around the strut. 
TO GET THE CLIP OFF: use a flathead screwdriver and pry up the end. Keep the screwdriver prying up and run it along the outside following the clip as it prys the clip away from the center.
TO GET THE CLIP ON: using your fingers gently pull one of the end tabs down. Place this in the groove and feed the rest of the circle on

*Ensure circlip is fully seated in the groove before proceeding. If the circlip is not fully seated in the groove there is a chance it can pop off on bumps and start causing lot of wear issues on the bearings and plates.*










*7*
Place top shell on









*8*
Bolt down & Torque. I use my own method of torquing without a torque wrench so i don't have a set point for you, i just adjust until there is adequate friction in between the plates and minimal play radially along the shaft. Seems to work for me :thumbup:

Below is the torque spec recommended by airlift. However always use your own discretion if it seems too tight or too loose :thumbup:



[email protected] said:


> The proper torque spec on the upper mount nut is 25lb-ft.


ALSO A NOTE ON REMOVING THIS NUT, YOU MUST USE THE ALLEN KEY TO HOLD THE DAMPER IN PLACE WHILE REMOVING THE NUT OR IT WILL JUST SPIN FREELY.


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## [email protected] (Feb 10, 2012)

I can't say I've ever seen that plate bent like that before and I've installed a good 35-40 of these things. Do you ever cruise all the way up???


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I can't say I've ever seen that plate bent like that before and I've installed a good 35-40 of these things. Do you ever cruise all the way up???


Nope no cruising all the way up. The bent plate was 100% my fault because that corner of the car hit a curb on my last car fairly hard. The other corner was fine, just didn't take 100% of the impact


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Nice DIY Sean. :beer:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Nice DIY Sean. :beer:


Thanks for the kit Will! 

:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Feb 10, 2012)

Oh I see. As long as the bottom side of the plate is still flat where the plastic bearing sits you should be all good then.

Nice write up too dude.


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

Used this today :thumbup: good info


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Twilliams83 said:


> Used this today :thumbup: good info


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Rpc07 (May 17, 2010)

How can i tell if i need to rebuild them?


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## GolfL (Apr 7, 2012)

Does someone knows the torque spec of the upper nut on the strut?
Mecheng mentioned that he tightens it till it has enough friction no radial play. But i bet airlift has a torquespec for it?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

I wasn't able to find any torque specs at all. 

If you tighten it too tight, the bearings will wear out quickly due to high friction and a lot of plastic on plastic action when you turn. if you don't tighten them enough, you can get radial play (the top cap staying in place but the strut center moving in and out from where it should) and also wearing out quicker.

I tightened it so that you could turn the top plate with a bit of resistance, you don't want it to stick, and you don't want it to spin freely.


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## FlybyGLI (Jun 20, 2008)

MechEngg said:


> I wasn't able to find any torque specs at all.
> 
> If you tighten it too tight, the bearings will wear out quickly due to high friction and a lot of plastic on plastic action when you turn. if you don't tighten them enough, you can get radial play (the top cap staying in place but the strut center moving in and out from where it should) and also wearing out quicker.
> 
> I tightened it so that you could turn the top plate with a bit of resistance, you don't want it to stick, and you don't want it to spin freely.


This. 

I didn't use any specific torque on them when I did mine last week. I also applied white lithium grease to each friction surface before assembling. They are back in the car now and are absolutely silent.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

FlybyGLI said:


> This.
> 
> I didn't use any specific torque on them when I did mine last week. I also applied white lithium grease to each friction surface before assembling. They are back in the car now and are absolutely silent.


There was already lubricant between the seals when they come in the bag, at least there was with mine. 

Yeah i rebuilt mine last year, and after 25,000kms there aren't any issues with them. :thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Sep 1, 2012)

The proper torque spec on the upper mount nut is 25lb-ft.


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## Rpc07 (May 17, 2010)

My front struts make a clanking/rattle over bumps could this be this issue?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> The proper torque spec on the upper mount nut is 25lb-ft.


Added to original post :thumbup::thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

Sean, for those outside of there one year Air Lift Warranty. The upper rebuild kit can be purchased here: http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/UPPER-REBUILD-KIT.html


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

just a quick one before i do mine this afternoon. i see that you only put one of those thin plasticy washer on there. the rebuild kit came with 2 of them. where do i put the oher one???

thanks.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

I dunno dude, i only used 1 because that is what came off my strut and what was included in my specific rebuild kit (mk4 top plate).

My guess would be that the kits are "universal" for all models, and some models require the second friction plate on top due to the difference in some strut designs possibly. I haven't had experience in any other brands or generations, just my gut assumption


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

MechEngg said:


> I dunno dude, i only used 1 because that is what came off my strut and what was included in my specific rebuild kit (mk4 top plate).
> 
> My guess would be that the kits are "universal" for all models, and some models require the second friction plate on top due to the difference in some strut designs possibly. I haven't had experience in any other brands or generations, just my gut assumption



Thanks for the input....

Anybody else out there with an mk5/6 who has done it? If not ill just call AL and ask.

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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

jun_1.8T said:


> just a quick one before i do mine this afternoon. i see that you only put one of those thin plasticy washer on there. the rebuild kit came with 2 of them. where do i put the oher one???
> 
> thanks.


Determining if the upper strut mount needs one or two spacers is done on a strut by strut basis after test fitting the entire upper assembly. By that I mean it's not always the same, sometimes you need one, sometimes two. 

My rule of thumb is, if there's any play at all, try to squeeze the second spacer on. 

Look HERE to see where the spacer goes. (Part number 6 is the spacer)

Feel free to PM or email me if you have any questions.


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## 1slowassgolf (May 30, 2011)

Rpc07 said:


> My front struts make a clanking/rattle over bumps could this be this issue?


 Mines doing the same on the passenger side front when i drive, my whole airride has close to 2k miles on it! Does this mean i need to rebuild? A friend of mine had same issue on his CC until he couldnt air up on it and he checked it out and you can move the entire inner strut!


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## 1slowassgolf (May 30, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Determining if the upper strut mount needs one or two spacers is done on a strut by strut basis after test fitting the entire upper assembly. By that I mean it's not always the same, sometimes you need one, sometimes two.
> 
> My rule of thumb is, if there's any play at all, try to squeeze the second spacer on.
> 
> ...


 I have had air since the end if april what do i do now that its clunking?


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## Twilliams83 (Jan 25, 2011)

Good diy


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## prospal (Mar 8, 2011)

I've got a question about this. I tried to get the top nut off to do this as a maintenance, but it seems to be seized or something.

In trying to get it off, but i just keep turning the nut, and it's not coming off the threads. the black donut piece right underneath that top nut (pictured below) spins freely now and tightens and loosens, like it catches the threads up until a certain point and then lets go.










Do you think this is bad? Nothing wobbles or is loose, but I'm curious if I can bolt this thing back up safely?


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Are you using an allen key to hold the shaft of the damper in place??


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## prospal (Mar 8, 2011)

MechEngg said:


> Are you using an allen key to hold the shaft of the damper in place??


I can guarantee you I'm not :laugh:

I guess I didn't give these a good look over before going at it to know that was something I had to potentially do. I'll give it a shot tonight.

Thanks for the quick response!! :beer:


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## glifahrenheitcameron (Sep 14, 2011)

prospal said:


> I can guarantee you I'm not :laugh:
> 
> I guess I didn't give these a good look over before going at it to know that was something I had to potentially do. I'll give it a shot tonight.
> 
> Thanks for the quick response!! :beer:


:laugh:


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## Culver (Jun 1, 2009)

props for this. I have 2 rebuild kits for my struts waiting to go in. Glad to see it's not as much of a PITA as I thought it was going to be. 

:thumbup::beer:


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

prospal said:


> I can guarantee you I'm not :laugh:
> 
> I guess I didn't give these a good look over before going at it to know that was something I had to potentially do. I'll give it a shot tonight.
> 
> Thanks for the quick response!! :beer:


:thumbup:



CULVER said:


> props for this. I have 2 rebuild kits for my struts waiting to go in. Glad to see it's not as much of a PITA as I thought it was going to be.
> 
> :thumbup::beer:


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

If replacing these doesn't solve your noise, check the control arm bushings.


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## [email protected] (Feb 19, 2010)

MechEngg said:


> Are you using an allen key to hold the shaft of the damper in place??


This is KEY!


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> This is KEY!


Added note to original post


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## TurboGliMK4 (Aug 27, 2009)

awesome.. thank you!


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

TurboGliMK4 said:


> awesome.. thank you!


:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Bag Riders Air Ride (Sep 10, 2013)

Definitely going to send people to this in the future, but I also want to add that you really need to make sure the circlip is set in the groove. This may require a little extra push into place, some do not slip right in.


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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Bag Riders Air Ride said:


> Definitely going to send people to this in the future, but I also want to add that you really need to make sure the circlip is set in the groove. This may require a little extra push into place, some do not slip right in.


Edited to include additional warning :thumbup:


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## TurboGliMK4 (Aug 27, 2009)

Bag Riders Air Ride said:


> Definitely going to send people to this in the future, but I also want to add that you really need to make sure the circlip is set in the groove. This may require a little extra push into place, some do not slip right in.


i bought my kit from you guys about a year ago.. but i dont drive my mk6 at all maybe 600 miles a year total ( h20i and back ) 

i took my car out of the garage for the first time in 3 months and now i have a pretty bad clunk. it checked over all the suspension everything is tight . think it can be a bad strut or start with this?


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

just a few questions about this rebuild kit. 

I had a slight knocking sound shortly after I installed mine last summer. so AL sent me a couple of for both sides. I installed them the way it was shown here. now that everything was torqued down properly....I noticed that I am able to move the mounting plate radiallly around the 2 plastic bushings. now what happens is that when I installed the whole strut assembly back in the car...I can rock the whole strut back and forth with my hands easily. is this normal....I dont think so. what could be my problem here? 

btw....the slight knocking noise did not go away. I just tried to live with it. but this summer it is getting worse. should i need my mounting plate replaced?

this is exactly what both my front struts are doing even after the rebuild kit

Airlift XL MKIV: http://youtu.be/D2F4aNrbl_o

thanks.



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## TurboGliMK4 (Aug 27, 2009)

jun_1.8T said:


> just a few questions about this rebuild kit.
> 
> I had a slight knocking sound shortly after I installed mine last summer. so AL sent me a couple of for both sides. I installed them the way it was shown here. now that everything was torqued down properly....I noticed that I am able to move the mounting plate radiallly around the 2 plastic bushings. now what happens is that when I installed the whole strut assembly back in the car...I can rock the whole strut back and forth with my hands easily. is this normal....I dont think so. what could be my problem here?
> 
> ...



how long have you had the struts on and did you buy them new?


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

I bought everything brand new from BR. I put them on around May 2013. then I would say about 2 months after....it started making the slight knocking sound. and thats when everything I mentioned above all started. 

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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

jun_1.8T said:


> I had a slight knocking sound shortly after I installed mine last summer. so AL sent me a couple of for both sides. I installed them the way it was shown here. now that everything was torqued down properly....I noticed that I am able to move the mounting plate radiallly around the 2 plastic bushings. now what happens is that when I installed the whole strut assembly back in the car...I can rock the whole strut back and forth with my hands easily. is this normal....I dont think so. what could be my problem here?
> 
> btw....the slight knocking noise did not go away. I just tried to live with it. but this summer it is getting worse. should i need my mounting plate replaced?


If done properly (and the thrust bearing was the issue) the noise would have gone away. 

A) When putting in the thin spacers, did you test fit the circlip to make sure it was touching the mounting plate? To properly test fit the circlip, install everything up to the circlip. If the circlip is touching the plate but it's tough to spin, remove one spacer. Each application is different and may require 1 spacer or 3. You absolutely do not want a tiny gap below the circlip.
B) I've had to replace mine 6-7 times over the past 3+ years and mine have never wiggled that much. Either your plate is bad or you have something wrong with the strut itself.

I'd call them up and have them send you several sets of these including a mounting plate set and new circlips (should all be free fwiw). I get about 8-10k miles out of a set of thrust bearings and I have replaced the mounting plates one time as a precaution.


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## jun_1.8T (Oct 31, 2003)

VR6OOM said:


> If done properly (and the thrust bearing was the issue) the noise would have gone away.
> 
> A) When putting in the thin spacers, did you test fit the circlip to make sure it was touching the mounting plate? To properly test fit the circlip, install everything up to the circlip. If the circlip is touching the plate but it's tough to spin, remove one spacer. Each application is different and may require 1 spacer or 3. You absolutely do not want a tiny gap below the circlip.
> B) I've had to replace mine 6-7 times over the past 3+ years and mine have never wiggled that much. Either your plate is bad or you have something wrong with the strut itself.
> ...


thanks for the reply.

A) yes I did fit the thin spacer properly. I only needed one as when I tried putting 2, I was not able to put the circlip on. the thrust bearing was slightly covering the groove for the circlip already. but even when the bearings are on tight, I can still move the mounting plate around the thrust bearing. its like the hole of the plate is a lot bigger than the diameter of the recessed lip of the 2 bushings or the lip of the bushings were too small for the hole on the plate(I hope u guys can picture that). i will try and get a short clip of it once I get to fix it. 

B) I contacted jeremy from AL and he said that he will be sending me the rebuild kit. I also asked him about the radial play around the mounting plate and bushing because I might need a new plate. he said that it is normal. in which I dont think so but we will see. I dont think that u can do this eventhough I just repleced the bushings...

Airlift XL MKIV: http://youtu.be/D2F4aNrbl_o

C) just today again I noticed a new noise. you guys think its also related with the strut mount bushings? when its parked and I try to turn the steering slightly...there is a small knocking sound. and then when im stop on a red light and then start moving....there will also be a slight popping sound coming from the passenger side. 

this is getting worse by the day and its getting frustrating already. I know AL has no problem sending you parts but just the time of replacing parts so often is getting annoying already. 

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## APURPLEKING (May 23, 2007)

Problem "c" might be your axle, might want to check on that. 

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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Not sure if anybody else has seen but it looks like Swoops is putting out a new product. New upper strut plates that are off center, giving you -2 camber!

Would be a nice product if you have installed your upper plates in the right orientation and would be extremely easy to swap while you are performing this re-build :thumbup:



EDIT: It was swoops, my bad :thumbup:


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## brnsgrbr (Aug 17, 2009)

Bringing this back as I am having this issue after about 15k. FYI, the parts link for the kit on Bagriders is not good anymore. Thanks MechEngg for telling me about this writeup. How do we get these camber plates and what is the proper orientation?


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## brnsgrbr (Aug 17, 2009)

brnsgrbr said:


> FYI, the parts link for the kit on Bagriders is not good anymore.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Found the kit here: http://www.urotuning.com/Airlift-Up...tpjK4_Wn1hgmRsMt3TU82RQaL5xDWFd5EMaAg4J8P8HAQ



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## MechEngg (Jan 13, 2009)

Link to replacement front plates *with added camber* 

http://hardlinesbyswoops.com/collections/frontpage/products/airlift-xl-fixed-camber-plate

:thumbup::thumbup:


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