# Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info



## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

Nice to see some posts about transmission issues that include detail. Recall other R & R's and rebuilds from archived posts, too. Many less than successful repairs, and very little evidence that shops diagnosed problems or paid attention to owner comments prior to tearing things apart. But that's not anything new, right?
What I don't understand (and can't fully appreciate since I'm not in the trans repair business) is that there is plenty of diagnostic and tear-down evidence pointing to valve and valve body issues as the culprit in most VW/Audi transmission problems. These issues are so well established about the VW/Audi 096, 097, 098, 01P, 01M, 01N transmissions that there are many kits and rebuilt valve bodies from sources like these:
http://www.valvebodybuilders.c....html
http://www.transmissionpartsus...Specs
http://www.sonnax.com/instruct...N.pdf
Also from GTI_Matt's post:
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/catalog/VW/01m.asp
http://www.autotransonline.ro/...p.pdf
http://www.transparts.ru/pdf/vw4_04_w.pdf
http://www.drivetrain.com/volk...9801P
http://www.transtarindustries....D=332

In particular, read what the "driver complaint" is that the various parts are supposed to remedy. Most of these complaints have been mentioned in our forums. Google "sonnax VW 01P or "VW Audi AG4 transmission valve" for more examples.
For example, many people on VWvortex temporarily solve slow shifts by screwing in the pressure regulator valve. According to Sonnax, the root problem is that valve body wear or a weakened pressure regulator spring causes lower fluid pressure.
In most of the threads we see metal bits in pans and on the magnets, but unless there has been a dramatic part failure or abuse, replacing clutch plates, planetary gears, and torque convertors seems unnecessary. Excessive wear due to poor shifting caused by sticking valves and/or erratic pressure regulation seems a reasonable conclusion. Thinking that hardened gear surfaces are spontaneously disintegrating is not reasonable. Circulating particles and degraded fluid would also lead me to predict that there are some worn o-rings, blocked passages and worn valve body surfaces, but all of these are resident in the valve body assembly.
Again, while I'm an accomplished mechanic I don't have years on a transmission bench. However my guess is that replacing the valve body with a modified, rebuilt unit which incorporates some of the supposedly improved (over OEM) valve tweaks like Sonnax offers would fix most Eurovan transmission problems relatively inexpensively and maybe even permanently without removing the transmission from the vehicle. It looks like replacing the valve body is about as difficult as changing the filter.


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## wilsonm73 (Jun 15, 2006)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

Thanks for all the investigation. I wonder who will be the first to try it out and test if for the rest of us.


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## [email protected] (Oct 24, 2002)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (wilsonm73)*

I have been reading all of these post on transmission failure and trying not to worry about "when" mine might fail. Obviously routine fluid changing will help "slow" down the process of a failed tranny. My question is when changing the fluid as anyone tried SyncroMesh?


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## conifer (Jan 26, 2002)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

I keep watching any EV Trans related thread in hopes I'll see something to fix mine. ie: Hard shifts from 1-2 and 2-1.








Have you checked into what a valve body will cost?


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (conifer)*

I know this is not what you want to hear but...I don't remember any posts about people fixing something like hard shifting - very pricey to mess with a valve body. With these transmissions, it seems to be either "it works" or "it doesn't". There has been some playing around with the screw setting inside, but I think that might be hiding an overall issue.... 
Given the history - and lack of VW EV trans knowledge out there - you might be looking a gift horse in the mouth by showing concern over hard shifting. My approach to these trannies (not found in manuals):
- fluid and filter every 40K (or sooner)
- slow starts with no romping on it
- say nurturing things to the van every day - improves karma
- wash it every week or so to help it feel "loved"
- if you are religious, include the van in every prayer
Some people pay for advice this profound. I'm giving it out for free - good thing I'm here for you...


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_Nice to see some posts about transmission issues that include detail. Recall other R & R's and rebuilds from archived posts, too. Many less than successful repairs, and very little evidence that shops diagnosed problems or paid attention to owner comments prior to tearing things apart. But that's not anything new, right?
What I don't understand (and can't fully appreciate since I'm not in the trans repair business) is that there is plenty of diagnostic and tear-down evidence pointing to valve and valve body issues as the culprit in most VW/Audi transmission problems. 

As I have been reading your post and doing some research on my own, your theories sound reasonable to me. Unfortunately research into availability of a rebuilt 01p valve body, or the cost of such an item has been impossible to find.
Anyone have any ideas where to find such info or items?


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## Altered States (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

I was just looking for this info... 

bump


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
Unfortunately research into availability of a rebuilt 01p valve body, or the cost of such an item has been impossible to find.
Anyone have any ideas where to find such info or items?

?? Try the links in the first post.


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## Altered States (Sep 19, 2006)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

Sorry but I am still a newb with the t4 Eurovans... Is there another transmission from an Audi or VW that will also work in the place of the stock automatic?


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_
?? Try the links in the first post.

Have you tried contacting any of these places regarding prices and availability? I did so a couple of times since I made that post and haven't gotten any replies. I see them mentioned in the links, but that is as far as I got.
Just to add...I did get one reply, indicating they couldn't help me.




_Modified by aebad at 3:02 PM 10-6-2008_


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (Altered States)*


_Quote, originally posted by *Altered States* »_Sorry but I am still a newb with the t4 Eurovans... Is there another transmission from an Audi or VW that will also work in the place of the stock automatic?

Anything else is going to be from a passenger car and would be even more marginal than the already marginal 01P. I wouldn't bother as it'd be a waste of time and money.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

Well, it looks like I won't be shopping for a valve body any time soon.
I have been having issues with van engaging in reverse for some time now. Brought the van into a VW dealer...not my local one, but one VW sent me to as "listed" as a Eurovan service center. I brought it to dealer because I have an extended warranty and figured if warranty will pay, I'd rather have work done at dealer.
Anyway, report today is transmission has internal issues. Service tech read notes describing reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch. Solution...as far as they are concerned is new transmission.
I am waiting to see if warranty will cover. Can't see why they won't. Transmission was serviced at recommended intervals so I can't see a valid reason they won't cover. 
I'll try to learn more about reasons for failure and post if I do.
I guess I should be happy I made it to 94,500 miles.


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## forest (Apr 18, 2008)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

Here is a link from another forum that has valve bodys.
http://atetrans.com/
Forest


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (forest)*

I like the pricing - shockingly affordable. Now if I could just find anyone south of Kentucky willing to put it in. You might as well have a "radioactive" emblem on these vans when you pull into a shop in the SE.


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_Anyway, report today is transmission has internal issues. Service tech read notes describing reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch. Solution...as far as they are concerned is new transmission.

OK, so translating this typical dealer mumbo jumbo:
"report today is transmission has internal issues" - translated this means something is wrong inside the transmission, and not the gear selector or engine management computer.
"reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch" translated: Of course clutches don't leak, but the valves supplying the hydraulic pressure to operate them can "leak" (what they are really doing is bypassing too much or not sealing properly, causing a clutch to not move when it should). Their diagnosis is from test driving, not from a tear down inspection.
So at this point, they are saying your complaints have merit, something is wrong in the transmission, and they want to replace the whole thing.
So if you get a warranty transmission replacement at N/C, great. If they come back with anything over say $1500 to $1800 out of pocket for you, just replace or repair the valve body, runs about $800 for a rebuilt unit.
If you can change your transmission filter, you can replace the valve body, or give it to a good VW/Audi independent to do.
I just replaced the filter on mine and checked into what it takes to remove the valve body. If you are comfortable with replacing brakes, tune-ups, etc and have a clean dry place to work changing the valve body should not be a big deal.


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (forest)*

99% of the time in Eurovan transmissions the failed components are the main and boost regulator valves. This causes not enough pressure to be available for the rest of the valve body and clutches. Sometimes, one of the other shift control valves is worn or is leaking (bypassing fluid). Sometimes a failing connection from the ribbon cable that feeds the solenoids. 
That's about it. All can be fixed without removing the transmission, preferable in my book to dropping an otherwise good transmission out to replace it with an unknown.


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (VW_Enthu1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW_Enthu1* »_ Now if I could just find anyone south of Kentucky willing to put it in. You might as well have a "radioactive" emblem on these vans when you pull into a shop in the SE.

I really can't explain this. I've worked on lots of cars over the years, and I find Eurovans to be one of the simpliest and easiest to do most anything on. The problem seems more in the area of getting the correct part or a repair manual reference- but these are not issues of the van, these are issues of a poorly deployed repair infrastructure.


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
Have you tried contacting any of these places regarding prices and availability? I did so a couple of times since I made that post and haven't gotten any replies. I see them mentioned in the links, but that is as far as I got.
Just to add...I did get one reply, indicating they couldn't help me.

Some won't bother with you if you are not a shop. You have to know what you want, and just behave as if you are a "small, specialty vehicle shop".
Try http://www.importperformancetr...shtml for a rebuild on your existing valve body if the time comes that you need it.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_
OK, so translating this typical dealer mumbo jumbo:
"report today is transmission has internal issues" - translated this means something is wrong inside the transmission, and not the gear selector or engine management computer.
"reverse clutch leak and leak in another internal clutch" translated: Of course clutches don't leak, but the valves supplying the hydraulic pressure to operate them can "leak" (what they are really doing is bypassing too much or not sealing properly, causing a clutch to not move when it should). Their diagnosis is from test driving, not from a tear down inspection.
So at this point, they are saying your complaints have merit, something is wrong in the transmission, and they want to replace the whole thing.
So if you get a warranty transmission replacement at N/C, great. If they come back with anything over say $1500 to $1800 out of pocket for you, just replace or repair the valve body, runs about $800 for a rebuilt unit.
If you can change your transmission filter, you can replace the valve body, or give it to a good VW/Audi independent to do.
I just replaced the filter on mine and checked into what it takes to remove the valve body. If you are comfortable with replacing brakes, tune-ups, etc and have a clean dry place to work changing the valve body should not be a big deal.


I know your translation is correct, and also thanks for your help and advice on valve bodies. I have gotten an education here thanks to all of you.
I wish I knew then what I knew now...I never would have bought the extended warranty. I did so because I was worried about transmission and a/c issues. The warranty helped with a/c issues, and I am now hoping it will help with the tranny.
If they don't cover it, I'll be going the valve body route!
It has been there since last Monday and warranty company still hasn't decided what they are going to do. I am concerned.
I can't see any valid reason they could deny it. The tranny was serviced as the manufacturer recommends...but I am sure they'll find a way.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_
Some won't bother with you if you are not a shop. You have to know what you want, and just behave as if you are a "small, specialty vehicle shop".
Try http://www.importperformancetr...shtml for a rebuild on your existing valve body if the time comes that you need it.

That was probably my problem. I don't really know much about auto-boxes and my questions probably showed that. We'll see what happens!
Thanks again for the info.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_

So if you get a warranty transmission replacement at N/C, great. If they come back with anything over say $1500 to $1800 out of pocket for you, just replace or repair the valve body, runs about $800 for a rebuilt unit.


You need to try your hand at fortune telling! You hit it dead on. The warranty company will offer to pay for some local shop I never heard of to do the work. They will remove my transmission, fix what is broken, and put it back in. Their 12/12000 warranty covers only the transmission, not the install.
or...
I can take what is behind door #2, have VW do the job and pay the difference, which will be about $1800.
Now I'd rather have VW do the work primarily because I feel I have better recourse if there are problems with the install.
The warranty contract says *"For Quality Maintenance and Repair Service return your vehicle to the selling dealer"* so it seems I should be entitled to dealer service. There is language about *reasonable costs* so I guess what they are saying is they don't find dealer cost, which is for a fully re-manufactured unit, not one where just broken bits have been replaced (as per dealer), to be reasonable.
For all I know the independent shop will just replace valve body and any damage resulting from the valve body being defective will remain in place.
Of course no useful info on what failed inside tranny is available.
If I didn't have almost $2000 spent on the extended warranty I would just do the valve body myself, but now I feel caught in the middle. Do I walk away or spend another $1800 for new tranny...or do I fight warranty company.




_Modified by aebad at 8:04 PM 10-16-2008_


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

To be short:
1. You won't win with the warranty company. They usually word it that way to get themselves out of insanely expensive repairs like this. I figured they were going to do that to you when I read your first post...
2. It is a call only you can make. If you are keeping it long term, it could be argued to cough up the extra $, but it is obviously your wallet, not mine - judgment call.
3. If you are losing the van in the year or so, go the cheap route.
Welcome to our version of German hell called "Eurovan Transmission Repair". No one ever listens to me - we have to be crazy to love these things!


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## ubervan (Oct 17, 2008)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

I had lost reverse uphill in my 2002 Eurovan. After reading these posts, I contacted valvebodybuilders.com, and got an upgraded valve body. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my reverse issue. In fact, now first gear slips. I'm hoping modifying line pressure, as valvebodybuilders recommended, will take care of that. 
Since reverse continues to slip and then lurch into gear on a grade (it engages better downhill), do you think I'll have to address the seals and clutches next?


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (ubervan)*

I doubt the pressure adjustment will affect your slipping at all. You've got internal gremlins in the trans that are going to have be addressed - clutch maybe? or more? hope not...
I will say you have more guts than I if you are doing this stuff yourself...


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (ubervan)*


_Quote, originally posted by *ubervan* »_I had lost reverse uphill in my 2002 Eurovan.
Since reverse continues to slip and then lurch into gear on a grade (it engages better downhill), do you think I'll have to address the seals and clutches next?

OK, your gonna have to run that by me again. What's going on? More detail about the steepness of the incline, how much fluid you put back in, etc.


_Modified by mekramer001 at 12:34 AM 10-18-2008_


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_The warranty company will offer to pay for some local shop I never heard of to do the work. They will remove my transmission, fix what is broken, and put it back in. 

Sometimes shops you've never heard of have better pricing for repairs since they do a larger volume of warranty work, and don't advertise for new business. Doesn't mean they are bad.
If it's a worn valve body, they don't need to remove the transmission, and shouldn't until they inspect and test the valve body. However, they might just want to R&R the transmission just like the VW dealer wants to do. This depends on whether the shop has a transmission tech and proper equipment. 
If I were in your shoes here's what I would do. 
Plan A:
Go to the shop you've never heard of. Ask for 15 minutes of the manager's time. Detail a bit about what you have learned about your 01P symptoms and the well-known valve body failure modes. (Print out some Sonnax info) Ask him if it would make sense to drop the pan and look for chunks of metal. If there are no chunks, would they just pull the valve body and exchange it for a modified rebuilt unit. If they don't have to drop the transaxle, that's money in their pocket, too.
Maybe they say they don't repair, they just R&R the transmission with a rebuilt unit. Ask where the rebuilt unit comes from- is it the same place the VW service department gets theirs from? Why not?
If they blow you off, or the shop looks like it's seen better days, or they otherwise leave you with a bad impression, go to Plan B. 
Plan B:
Go to VW dealer. Ask to meet with service manager and their most experienced Eurovan mechanic. Same dialog. They will probably say as a policy they don't repair transmissions, and R&R complete units only. That's fine. Since they will be installing a complete "VW approved" rebuilt unit, ask them to warranty the complete unit IN WRITING for parts and labor for the 12,000 miles / 12 months (or whatever the standard VW rebuilt transmission warranty is- it might be more). Also ask if they could please inspect other wear-related items made accessible by the transmission removal, and repair those items offering their very best discount. The service manager can't do much about the part warranty, but should be able to add the full labor cost coverage at his/her discretion, and give you a very good break on other service items (like about 40-50% off). Just make sure he's a good guy, and doesn't use this as an opportunity to milk it. Of course, you will want to see the work they recommend if at all possible when it's on the lift, or at least have them give you the old parts since you enjoy learning about car maintenance. It helps to have the mechanic in on this conversation.
The idea is that for $1800 out of pocket, you want VWoA to fully cover the transmission directly, and not have to go through the extended warranty company again. The reason for getting other wear items fixed is it will save you money and downtime in the long run.




_Modified by mekramer001 at 1:44 AM 10-18-2008_


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

I envy the options available to those of you on the west coast. I started searching around again for any trans place that would touch my van. Not one. Not Aamco. Not the local German Specialist Shop (go figure). Not any independents. Nobody. A couple of them said basically - to be honest - they would rather not see anything with the "VW" logo on the front. It's always the same story - the transmissions are just built differently (read: pain in the a** to work on), VW is a pain in the a** to deal with regarding parts, and there aren't any third party suppliers to work with at the corporate level to allow for a non-VW parts source. I'm sure the fact that they would see only one a year doesn't help either.
(Sigh).....Oh well...I'm going to go pull him out of the garage now and wax him, say some more nurturing things to him, and make him feel loved. We're still into the mental health aspect of our EVW used as compensation for the physical shortcomings...










_Modified by VW_Enthu1 at 7:35 AM 10-18-2008_


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (VW_Enthu1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW_Enthu1* »_I envy the options available to those of you on the west coast. I started searching around again for any trans place that would touch my van. Not one. Not Aamco. Not the local German Specialist Shop (go figure). Not any independents. Nobody. A couple of them said basically - to be honest - they would rather not see anything with the "VW" logo on the front. 

Yes, but think of the money you are saving by not paying through the nose to "fix" something you end up having to fix yourself anyway. At least they are exhibiting their business and technical incompetence up front, and not after you've paid the bill.
Most of these shops (AAMCO? You must be really desperate!) don't have the money to buy the VAG inspection and repair tools, which is why they don't want to see VW's. Also, too many re-works from using the wrong fluid or tearing up the ribbon cable to the shift solenoids when they do attempt a repair.
Most of today's transmission shops make their gravy off of tow vehicles, MOPAR racer wanna-bes, Chryslers, Saturns, Volvos, and not so much VW or Audi.
You want a cheap to fix, reliable, fun vehicle with camping capabilities? Find a clean, under 40k mile Ford Crown Vic with the P71 police package. Put a hitch on it, get a camping trailer. Any shop can work on it, look for the low-rent, grimy ones with lots of taxi cabs in the lot.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_
Sometimes shops you've never heard of have better pricing for repairs since they do a larger volume of warranty work, and don't advertise for new business. Doesn't mean they are bad.

I understand what you are saying about the smaller shops, and I am sure many do good work. This place, however, based on my research seems to be a favorite of warranty and insurance repairs because of price. While they may still do good work, I have some doubts.
Also, while a valve body alone may improve my situation, my recent fluid change, which I naively thought may improve my reverse issues (it did not) revealed smoe good size chunks in the pan...








I'd like to get a rebuilt tranny if possible. 
What other wear items would you recommend discussing with them?
Does timing chain replacement require transmission removal? I may be way off, but thought I recalled reading that some where.
Anything else you'd recommend doing while the van is apart?
Oh...and anyone wanna send me some donations to pay for all this http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

Was that photo from the last fluid change, then? You are welcome to send that pic and any others to me for a closer look, but they would have to be full resolution.
If that piece really is from the gear train then I agree you should get the VW-installed rebuilt unit.
I'm not liking the reverse problems. Did you have poor reverse engagement along with slipping or what felt like a lack of power after selecting reverse?


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## ubervan (Oct 17, 2008)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

Six months ago my '02 Eurovan started having difficulty engaging reverse. If you put it into reverse, it would just sit there. Apply gas, it would rev and shudder a little, then you could feel it slightly engaging. Then suddenly bam, it would lurch into gear. As time has gone on, it has got worse. Now it will usually go into gear on a reverse direction down hill or flat grade 50% of the time, but any uphill angle at all (like a driveway or parking lot drainage slope) will prevent it. 
I have 109K on the engine, no prev work on the trans. At about 50K I started getting jarring, abrupt shifting when I went into firts, or with a 1-2 upshift or downshift. Reverse too. But I've never had a slippage problem with foreward gears like I have develpoed in reverse. 
As far as my work, I checked the fluid level and found it to be normal, no added fluid needed when I checked it according to service manual procedures. So I replaced the valve body with a rebuilt unit, plus the internal wiring, filter and the o rings on the trans plug. No debris in the pan, a little sludge in the mabnet. Put 4 L of fluid in it, drove it. It corrected the jarring shifts, it's now silky smooth. However, reverse still engages only intermittently, slips when it does go in and won't back uphill at all. No computer codes, although after doing the valve body job my ABS and ESC warning lights are on.
I'm thinking clutches, seals or bands, basically a rebuild. I'd like to find a good core, do it myself over winter and install it in the spring when it warms up.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*

Here is another picture of the metal I found when doing ATF drop and drain. There were about a dozen like this...along with magnet fully loaded with the usual transmission fur.

























My reverse issue sounded a lot like the one posted above. Reverse was very slow to engage, and it just got worse. Sometimes moving gear selector from R to N a couple of times would cause R to grab...other times I had to rev engine. It was getting worse.
Interestingly, when cold, all worked fine. It was only after engine and AT warmed that the problem would arise.
Never had any issues with hard shifts or slipping once engaged in reverse, and never had any issues in any forward gear.

_Modified by aebad at 8:26 AM 10-20-2008_

_Modified by aebad at 8:27 AM 10-20-2008_


_Modified by aebad at 8:32 AM 10-20-2008_


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## love2fly (Jul 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (mekramer001)*


_Quote, originally posted by *mekramer001* »_ you should get the VW-installed rebuilt unit.

Please excuse me for joining the thread so late with this. I am wondering why no one has meantioned German Transaxle from Bend, Oregon as a possible solution for a rebuilt transmission? 
german-transaxle.com
2185 NE 2nd St # 3
Bend, OR 97701
(541) 382-7723
It's been reported several times/places that they do all the transmissions for GoWesty. They have a lot of experience with EV and EVC transmissions. They don't do the actual R/R work, but that can be done locally and the transmission is shipped in a crate.
http://german-transaxle.com/ca...plete/
Last experience I heard of with VW getting a rebuilt unit, it took three or four months for the transmission to arrive from Germany. It will be a rebuilt unit (with a letter "X" stamped in the serial number). The cost of the rebuild unit from VW was quite a bit (maybe twice as I recall) the cost of a rebuild available from German Transaxle.
I don't have accurate numbers, but I seem to recall that the whole transmission swap at the VW dealership cost one fellow about $7K out of pocket after pitching a huge fit to get the price down. I wonder how much of that the 3rd Party warranty company will entertain paying? 
German Transxale has a 12/12 warranty or a six-month warranty... check with them for details.
Best wishes,
Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (love2fly)*

I did mention German Transaxle to the warranty company, but they only deal with "their" sources. They claim they could not find a rebuilt transmission, which is why they wanted to take van from dealer to a shop of their choosing that will "fix what is broken" on site. 
Perhaps I just worry too much, but I have seen enough half ass rebuilds in my day to trust a place whose selling point appears they are cheap. The standards for rebuilds have sliipped mightily in the past 20 years. A rebuilt starter or alternator used to have all wearable parts changed. Now, they may just swap out one burnt diode, and leave 15 year old bearings in place. I am HOPING the standards for a "factory rebuild" are higher. I guess we'll see.
As for prices...German Transaxle lists a price of $3355. To that I'd have to add shipping to me on the east coast, and then shipping of the core back to Oregon. The dealer price for their part is $4200. I didn't get a shipping quote, but having shipped aircooled engines cross country, I am pretty sure the additional costs for shipping a tranny both ways would make German Transaxle's total price similar to that for the dealer part...or maybe even more.
The total price my dealer has given me, which includes 8.2 hours labor, is around $5600. Warranty company is willing to kick in $3800.
Maybe I ought to pitch a fit and see if I can get price down.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

My two cents: The $5600 # is a bit high - previously these have been going for around $5200. However, if you can walk out of a dealer with a new trans with a 12 mo. warranty for $1800 out of pocket, I would personally take it, run, and not ask any questions. If it fries down the road, you can go back to the dealer and get a discount on the future repair.
I would not look this gift horse in the mouth.
2nd edit: Let me put it to you this way. I have an EVW with 145K+ miles that I keep in a temperature controlled garage that I plan on keeping forever (the van, not the garage). If I could go out right now and replace the trans with a dealer-replaced unit for $1800 - even though my existing trans functions fine - I'd do it in a heartbeat. I would literally be there tomorrow when the dealer opened with a check in hand.
Due to the screwed-up design of these transmissions, I simply do not trust any internal "repairs" where some parts are replaced and other parts are kept. To put it in the most basic terms: forget all general rules and guidelines that you knew or once knew regarding transmissions. These things have their own set of rules for trans repair as far as I'm concerned. 
In my position, the question for you doesn't even involve the trans. To me, the real choice here is whether or not to go ahead and have them replace both timing chains and the plastic guides while they have the trans out. How long do you plan on keeping it?




_Modified by VW_Enthu1 at 10:00 AM 10-21-2008_


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (VW_Enthu1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW_Enthu1* »_My two cents: The $5600 # is a bit high - previously these have been going for around $5200. However, if you can walk out of a dealer with a new trans with a 12 mo. warranty for $1800, I would personally take it, run, and not ask any questions. If it fries down the road, you can go back to the dealer and get a discount on the future repair.
I would not look this gift horse in the mouth.

It is actually $5100 before the great state of NY adds in the taxes. Labor rates are also pretty high round here. This may account for differences. I contacted a few dealers and got basically same price.
I have already gone for the new transmission.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

If you are keeping the van for a long time, have the guides and chains replaced while the trans is out. It's an extra hour or two of labor at most.
It's like replacing the front hose and belt when you replace the water pump. You're already in there...you might as well replace these items on your way back out...
I think you chose wisely young Jedi...


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## love2fly (Jul 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
I have already gone for the new transmission. 


Good! I wish you the best with this!!
One point of clarification... this will be a rebuilt unit, not a *new* unit, right? 
On the rebuild units from VW, I would like to know just what parts get replaced and what parts remain... and what tolerances they use? Who decides, and based on what? 
When getting a rebuilt unit, some parts may have 20,000 miles on them, or some parts may have 200,000 miles. And, some parts might be new too. No way of knowing what is what once the unit is installed. 
The "X" in the serial number only indicates "rebuilt transmission," not anything about what tolerances and specifications were used in that rebuild. 
Did the VW folks say anything about this? And, how long will you have to wait for the slow boat from Germany to arrive with your new transmission? Hopefully, they have something "in stock" already.
I would recommend changing the ATF every 10,000 miles. (German Transaxle recommends that too, by the way.) I would probably do this first change early, maybe at 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Best wishes,
Garrett


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (love2fly)*


_Quote, originally posted by *love2fly* »_
I would recommend changing the ATF every 10,000 miles. (German Transaxle recommends that too, by the way.) I would probably do this first change early, maybe at 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Best wishes,
Garrett

I will try to find out more about what is inside the VW rebuild. I am waiting to hear how long it will be taking to get the replacement.
Where is the serial number located on the transmission? I would like to be sure I have an "X" tranny.
As for changing the ATF...I did it myself for the first time not that long ago...following some excellent instrctions from a great guy whose name begins with a G...can't remember the rest







. Now that I know how, I plan to do it more regularly!


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## love2fly (Jul 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
Where is the serial number located on the transmission? I would like to be sure I have an "X" tranny.



I'll insert a screen shot from the Bentley Manual here, but in short, the numbers are cut into the casting in two places, both on TOP of the transmission where it is not easily seen. Best of luck with that!








If you do get to see your transmission, maybe sneak a couple of photos of it for your file, and try to get both of those numbers. Interesting, the code includes the actual date of the original manufacture of the transmission. 01Ps have been installed on EV/EVCs since 1992... so, it will be interesting to see what you get.
Here should be the image from the Bentley Manual:








Best wishes,
Garrett


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (love2fly)*

I'll try to get pictures and/or the serial number.
I am still waiting (since Monday) for call from shop. They said they'd call when they had an idea how long it would take to get transmission.
I am getting worried!


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
What other wear items would you recommend discussing with them?
Does timing chain replacement require transmission removal? I may be way off, but thought I recalled reading that some where.
Anything else you'd recommend doing while the van is apart? 

Labor wise, the transaxle R&R is comes close to an engine swap. The van engine needs to be dropped down to get the transaxle out according to the factory repair manual. I haven't done this procedure, I'm just looking at the manual. Looks like it's a good time to replace the engine seals, mounts, starter, CV Boots, brakes, exhaust downpipe (if needed). Timing chain replacement might be overkill if you know that the oil was regularly changed, but maybe others have some history on this so you might want to research or post a timing chain topic for the AXK VR6 engine.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

It's rant time: How exactly can a dealership consider their service organization to be professional in any way when it has been three days now - and they can't tell you when the trans will get there? This is 2008, not 1958. They should have been beating down your door to keep you updated on this. This is example #5,938 this year of why VW's dealer service model contributes to a poor customer experience and, in turn, non-repeat customers.
They should have been able to tell you same day when it was to arrive. Does someone at the national level not maintain/track proper inventory levels for the US/NA? It's the same....old...story. I've said it before and I'll say it again: VW is still not a player to be taken seriously in the NA market because their organization here has no...idea...what...they're...doing.
FYI: My Honda service rep would have been calling me twice a day with status updates on this. This is so simple, yet VW still can't figure it out.


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (VW_Enthu1)*

I agree 100% with your rant, but after getting dicked around by one dealer who didn't want to work on my van, then by the warranty company, my head is sore from all the banging.
I was working on a friend's Mercedes and went to get parts and the guy showed me on his computer exactly where they all were. He could tell me what dealer had what stock, what was in warehouse, and if no one had stock, when it could be expected. As you say, there is no excuse for not being able to do this.
I bought my first VW 30+ years ago, and the one thing that has remained consistent over those 30 years is that the service departments treat you like crap. The place my van is at now is polite, but it has been disappointing how weak their communication is. I call, never getting the rep on my case, and he takes 2 or 3 days to call back. 
Someday I'll wise up and move on to another brand


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

I hadn't looked at your vehicle list until now. YOU have much more patience than I. I love the appearance of many VW's and the EVW is the most fun vehicle we've ever owned, but ....damn... 
While we do love our EVW, we are in the midst of our own personal project to get our vehicles swapped over to Honda or Toyota to avoid these types of issues. My work Element has been flawless and our Pilot has been perfect so far (early in the game, but I expect nothing less). We'll lose the old combat wagon next (Nissan Quest) and we'll be set. It's funny - all of my service efforts go into the VW. I don't even pay attention to the other vehicles. Geez...


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (VW_Enthu1)*

I understand the shift away from VW, but to be honest, my "loyalty" to VW has been because they have been good, reliable cars...except for the EV.
My 79 got parked with almost 300,000 miles, the 86 with almost 200,000. My 91 has 165,000 and the 02 about 125,000. Other than an A/C compressor that went bad in the 91, none of these vehicles ever needed major service...just wear parts (brakes, belts, hoses, bearings, etc). The 86, 91 and 02 have the original clutches and the 79 only needed a replacement after 225K. The best part is that NONE of these vehicles ever saw a dealer for service.
As proof I am a glutton for punishment, I have an order in for an 09 Jetta TDI wagon. 
Some people never learn!


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## love2fly (Jul 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
I am still waiting (since Monday) for call from shop. They said they'd call when they had an idea how long it would take to get transmission.
I am getting worried!



Any word? What is the latest on this? Wishing you well...


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (love2fly)*


_Quote, originally posted by *love2fly* »_
Any word? What is the latest on this? Wishing you well...

Funy you should ask, as updating this was on my list of things to do today. FINALLY got my van back Saturday. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif








It is running nicely and shifting smoothly. An immediate concern I noted was that they forgot to put the bolts/screws back in that hold the braces that supported the back lower edge of the front bumper. It is never reassuring when they leave out screws! I know these are not major parts, but it always gets me wondering about what else they may have forgotten to tighten.
They offered no real insight into what went wrong with the old transmission other than the standard "internal issues" speech. They also said the transmission was done a week ago, but when testing things they found that one of the cooling fans wasn't operating as it was "internally defective" and they had to fight with the warranty company for a few days to pay for that. The fan alone is a $450 part so I am glad they fought.
I had asked them to write down serial number of replacement tranny, but they did not. I will try to get it and post. The part # on the invoice is 01P-300-056-X, and I recall some stating the X is consistent with a factory rebuild.
They also didn't swap my dipstick kit from old to replacement tranny, but I also forgot to mention it to them.
So, bottom line was I got what they call a "factory rebuild" transmission and install for $5715 plus tax. Warrantech only paid $3800 of this, but it is still better than paying full price by myself.
The difference in what they paid vs what VW charged is because they say they have right to substitute "like parts", only they couldn't find any from "their sources" and wanted me to take van to some shop I know nothing about. Warranty specifically states "take car to selling dealer for quality repairs", yet they wouldn't pay for this option. I know they could have opted to provide a transmission from their source, but the contract I have with them does not allow them to force me to have work done at a shop of their choosing so, small claims court here I come!
I'll post the serial number info when I get a chance to crawl under their and drop belly pan.
I am happy to have my van back!
_Modified by aebad at 8:59 AM 11-3-2008_


_Modified by aebad at 9:00 AM 11-3-2008_


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*

Congrats on the repair. All things considered, getting a new trans for $1900 for an EV is pretty good. As I mentioned before, I would go out tomorrow and spend that amount on my van for a new trans (rebuilt) even though mine functions OK now (knock on wood).
Now for the $64,000 question, are you going to keep it or bail?


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## aebad (Dec 28, 2000)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (VW_Enthu1)*


_Quote, originally posted by *VW_Enthu1* »_
Now for the $64,000 question, are you going to keep it or bail?















Good Question.
Given my track record of VW ownership, I'll probably keep it. I don't need a van as much as I did when my kids were all smaller, and we had carriages, beds, tons of gear to haul...so I doubt I'd purchase another new van (although a TDI T5 would change that fast!) making me think I'll probably hang onto this until the wheels fall off.


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## love2fly (Jul 23, 2004)

*Re: Eurovan 01P Transmission failure and repair info (aebad)*


_Quote, originally posted by *aebad* »_
contract I have with them does not allow them to force me to have work done at a shop of their choosing so, small claims court here I come!


Well good luck with that. Or, I should say, keep reading the fine print.
You see, this is a service contract... so, you "agree" to what is in writing already. AND, these guys are pretty smart about what YOU agree to.
The fine print will say (dollars to doughnuts here), any dispute to be mediated by (blank). And the blank will be that you have already agreed that this will be some outfit in "Guam" and you will have to do this mediation when THEY say... and you will have to pay up-front $500 or $1,000 non-refundable for the mediator... and you will have to agree to the outcome (no matter how or what)... and to do this charade, you will have to take two weeks off work to go... and you will have to put yourself up at a hotel and wait for your case to be announced... and you will have to pay your own air fare... and you will have to take the chance that the mediation company won't suddenly bump your case into the next month once you have arrived, so you will have to come back... and finally, you have to win your case (if you have not already gotten disgusted with the whole thing)... and then the mediator will say, "why don't you guys just split this whole thing 50/50?"
So, read first! Otherwise, you finally get to your small claims judge, and he will ask, "did you try to mediate this first? Oh wait, you have ALREADY agreed to mediation right here! And you didn't go? You didn't even try? Case dismissed... pay these court costs... buh bye!"
I would say that your luck with the warranty company so far has been a stellar success!! MUCH better than 100's and 1000's of others!!
The fine print in some of these contracts is SO DRACONIAN that they can deny a claim any time they wish with impunity. But, this time, you got them to pay. Congratulations!
I would trade places with you (tranny-wise) and be happy!!
Thankfully, the ordeal is over! Congratulations!
Best wishes... and do give us an update a few months or so down the line! I recommend a fluid change at about 2,500 miles and DO send the sample to Blackstone!
Garrett


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## pan-d-man (May 23, 2006)

*Updates?*

This post was last active many years ago. Issues with Eurovan transmissions still abound. Has there been any new breakthroughs in how to address upcoming issues before they escalate? What options are available to re-work or re-build any known defects? Any sources out there would be appreciated by many.


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

No, nothing new. Transmissions are and always will be junk (can you tell I love these transmissions?). All we can do is keep replacing the trans fluid and filter often (at least every 40K - most do it more often). From a service standpoint, I did identify a reliable source for repairs in Atlanta (for those in the SE): European Transmissions in Cumming, GA.


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## pan-d-man (May 23, 2006)

*Options*

Thanks for the reply. So what would you say are the best options for a fearless garage mechanic? Is it better to do a swap to a manual tranny, replace the control module first then move on to more expensive options, buy a rebuilt valve body...or other options that could be thrown on the table. I have only just begun getting sign of slow shifts. Every once in a while it will rev up a bit higher than normal and then shift. I have kicked around selling it but I also love the thing. I am not afraid to rip it out or even open. I have done this in the past even with 4WD trannys. I am also a marine mechanical engineer and understand hydraulics, pneumatics, electronics and how they all interact. I just want to know what will result in the best bang for the buck. Any input would be great from all you gurus out there. 

I did find a good write-up on the GOWesty site. They recommend the control module replacement first, then on from there.:beer:


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

I would say that doing any of the above when the transmission is working fine is a complete waste of time and money unless you are entirely bored on a Saturday and have nothing to do and wish to tear into things and spend money. 

I would recommend to just drive it and change the fluid and filter every 40K miles (more often if you tow). 

If it does go, a MT conversion is a laborious process to do as well as source the parts. I would only do that if the extra expense is truly worth it to you and if you're going to keep the van long enough to enjoy it. Otherwise I would just get a rebuilt AT and hope for the best again.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

IDK how much of this can be applied to the 01P (although supposedly the 01P is an outgrowth from the 01M transmission with beefier internals for the higher weight of the Eurovan) but check out this Wiki on the 01M:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_01M_transmission

It suggests that over time some of the issues with the transmission can be caused just by old deteriorated wiring.

So maybe if you start having issues, test for resistance across the wiring from one end to the other? Sounds easier said than done I guess though.


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## cool_gti_guy91 (Nov 13, 2000)

hello all,

I been reading this thread and was not surprised to see trans issues with the eurovan. I have always loved these things but seeing how expensive they are just to buy used i dont think i will be able to afford a late modle year. 

I did see a 93 auto that looked nice. Do those year trans have issues also? i did see manual vans of that year also, My guess would be stick with the manual?

Thanks
Jamie


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

I have seen a good deal of auto 93s with failed transmissions too (like when browsing classifieds). If you are OK with driving a MT, I would highly advise staying away from the autos wherever possible.


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## cool_gti_guy91 (Nov 13, 2000)

Manual is fine for me. Wish it was offered on the newer ones


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

cool_gti_guy91 said:


> Manual is fine for me. Wish it was offered on the newer ones


As do hundreds of us.

It was overseas (I have seen AES 12V VR6 + 5-speed MT) but just finding a VR6 overseas is rare to begin with since they're usually diesel vans. For thousands of dollars and time and effort yeah you could convert it with factory parts.


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## 20V'er (Oct 17, 2001)

This is a stupid question, but didn't VW build VR vans with a 5 speed in Europe? Anybody spend anytime looking into the swap? Smashed up/junked Eurovans have to be pretty common in parts of Europe.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

They did but the VR6 is rare over there, even with MT. They love their diesels (although I think offhand that the same transmission (02G) may have been used on the VR6 and 2.5 TDI over there but I'd have to check to be sure).

You need a TON of stuff (trans, possibly axles, shifter linkage, pedal box, etc.). ETKA even shows a different exhaust downpipe for MT vs AT (different shape I guess to clear something?).


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## wasted wages (Nov 7, 2002)

I know this thread is old as dirt, but i found this looking for an oil cooler for my tow rig & thought it was interesting enough to post. 

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/119814-01K.pdf


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## davidfrench (Dec 31, 2010)

*A new member to the trans fail club ?*

Hello all,
old topic, I know, and I've been reading all about the trans failure before buying my Eurovan GLS 2001 of 81 000 miles...
but recently, the hills of San Francisco got a bite on my trans... at only 92 000 miles.
I guess it could be just overheating, but sometimes it stays on 1st gear...
I stop, let it cool down for 10/15 min and it goes back to normal
Not happy anyway with this
shifting is sometimes a bit harsh from 1 to 2 or 2 to 3rd gear, but no biggy
What do you think ?
it it a sign of a future trans failure ?
I never read anyone having this problem (trans locked in 1st gear)...
CEL is on (for over retarded cam) and wondering if this engine/trans combo isn't just trying to tell me goodbye...

Any advice for an affordable and knowledgeable mechanic in San Francisco ?
I've been servicing the EV at Fred and also AutoSportHauss downtown...
Should I look at a diesel engine with manual tranny ?
Maybe a drive to Mexico, and swap it all and run grease !
:laugh:
Let me know if you have any advice
thanks !


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

davidfrench said:


> Hello all,
> old topic, I know, and I've been reading all about the trans failure before buying my Eurovan GLS 2001 of 81 000 miles...
> but recently, the hills of San Francisco got a bite on my trans... at only 92 000 miles.
> I guess it could be just overheating, but sometimes it stays on 1st gear...
> ...


See PM


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## bagelvw (Nov 12, 2011)

*2002 eurovan transmission problems*

Thanks for all the info so far, maybe my problem is the same, but just wanted make sure. 
I have 2002 eurovan 139k with trans problem. First time the problem appeared was on a 4 hour trip and it was hot outside 95f. The trans shifted into sport mode and wouldn't shift into overdrive. Shutting AC off seemed to help and everything appeared to be fine. Year later going on same trip it happened again. This time shutting ac off didn't work and it took till nighttime of it to shift out of the sport mode. Now, currently today the trans seems like its in 4th gear when i start her first up. After playing with her to move a mile, then everything seems to run fairly normal. Any help??? thanks in advance for any insight.


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## bagelvw (Nov 12, 2011)

mekramer001 said:


> Was that photo from the last fluid change, then? You are welcome to send that pic and any others to me for a closer look, but they would have to be full resolution.
> If that piece really is from the gear train then I agree you should get the VW-installed rebuilt unit.
> I'm not liking the reverse problems. Did you have poor reverse engagement along with slipping or what felt like a lack of power after selecting reverse?


 


Please see my similar issue at the end of thread. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.


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## pamplemousse (Dec 16, 2012)

*transmission*

we were just given a 2001 eurovan. the transmission has been replaced 3 times in this van; the last one was a vw reman. transmission. it has a couple thousand miles on it and it's warranty expired by time. the owner gave up on the van and gave it to us. the problem now is it will not shift up or down; it is stuck in drive (and reverse ok). we have gotten lots of different opinions (professional and otherwise) on what's wrong with it; solenoid valve/wiring harness... there are new issues with the car; the brake light comes on; and the head lights and windshield wipers have moments of not responding. by re-booting the car, it seems to put the later issues temporarily at rest. 

any of you out there think that it may be the transmission control modual? and the ecm for the rest of the problems?

thank you. your thoughts on this are appreciated!


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## pan-d-man (May 23, 2006)

*Something Fishy*

Something does not add up. It is not uncommon to have a manual tranny go out but this many indicates an issue outside the transmission. It sounds like you either have a mechanic that is not really doing what he is saying he is doing (e.g. saying it was replaced but not really) or you may have a van that has been partially submerged? Do you have access or have you checked a CarFax report or similar? This may give you additional clues that might help you solve the mystery. I had an issue once like this with a Rabbit. It turned out the car had been in an accident and the whole front clip replaced. When this happened, the engine/gear was installed ever so slightly out of alignment which was causing transmission and axle failures. It took several failures to discover. The good news was I got really good at swapping them out...


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

I am thinking either the brake light switch (cheap!) or the electrical portion of the ignition switch (cheap! but a bit hard to get at to replace). Both things can fool the shifter safety lock into thinking the car's ignition isn't on and/or the brake pedal isn't depressed.

When you say 'stuck in drive' is it the lever that is stuck or does the lever move but the transmission doesn't respond to it?

If it's the lever, I am guessing it's all related to electrical gremlins that govern the safety shift lock. If this is the case, your problems are probably not very expensive!


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## pan-d-man (May 23, 2006)

*Brake switch*

Yes, the brake switch is a cheap (less than $5 at the VW dealer) and the replacement process simple. I would for sure recommend this to see if it helps. It is probably one of the cheapest and easiest fixes on these vans. Start with the cheapest first...hope it goes well.:beer:


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## Larryxj (May 28, 2013)

*additional questions about Eurovan tranny*



mekramer001 said:


> Nice to see some posts about transmission issues that include detail. Recall other R & R's and rebuilds from archived posts, too. Many less than successful repairs, and very little evidence that shops diagnosed problems or paid attention to owner comments prior to tearing things apart. But that's not anything new, right?
> What I don't understand (and can't fully appreciate since I'm not in the trans repair business) is that there is plenty of diagnostic and tear-down evidence pointing to valve and valve body issues as the culprit in most VW/Audi transmission problems. These issues are so well established about the VW/Audi 096, 097, 098, 01P, 01M, 01N transmissions that there are many kits and rebuilt valve bodies from sources like these:
> http://www.valvebodybuilders.c....html
> http://www.transmissionpartsus...Specs
> ...




Larry Jackson here, in Cuernavaca Mexico.

I have a 2002 Eurovan I brought down from the States with serious tranny problems. Going on 3 months trying to get it fixed, with the usual culprits already replaced. They replaced worn gear and clutch pieces, & did valve kits, but reverse still wouldn't work....no pressure. 
So they rebuilt the Torque converter & still no change. I recently had a brand new $1000 valve body shipped down, installed, and still have no pressure in reverse. It works, but I have to gun the motor.
Anyone out there got any insight on what else could be the problem ?


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Correct VW (or equivalent) synthetic ATF used in the rebuild?

Pressure screw set properly? It's not meant to reversible though if you do adjust it to a higher setting and IDK what the initial setting should be.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

Larryxj said:


> Larry Jackson here, in Cuernavaca Mexico.
> 
> I have a 2002 Eurovan I brought down from the States with serious tranny problems. Going on 3 months trying to get it fixed, with the usual culprits already replaced. They replaced worn gear and clutch pieces, & did valve kits, but reverse still wouldn't work....no pressure.
> So they rebuilt the Torque converter & still no change. I recently had a brand new $1000 valve body shipped down, installed, and still have no pressure in reverse. It works, but I have to gun the motor.
> Anyone out there got any insight on what else could be the problem ?


Did they replace the tranny pump?(inside tranny)


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*01p Trans issue thread still here *

I am stoked to see this thread still getting posts! I have picked up a 2001 EV "mechanic" special and am in the process of getting her road worthy. I too have trans issues (the previous owner's reason for the sale). No start. No run. No move. I must like challenges. BTW, I have found this tread most helpful and wanted to thank all the contributors. 
Serviced the trans (she has 150K and i think it was the 1st time it had been done) and it moves!! The trans has rough 1-2 and 2-1 shifts and flares and slips. After much searching I ordered a "upgraded" valve body from Autobahn Transmission Exchange --http://www.atetrans.net/valve-body-pricing.html-- . It is a known bad part and without the fancy pants trans shop tools/testers I cant do that one myself. Cooler adapter and shift solenoid harness on the way too. I will post results soon. Fingers crossed. I would LOVE to avoid tearing in to the trans.


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## VAGmechanic (Sep 1, 2013)

Hello Skipstang,

you must have read my tranny's mind with your post, it just packed up.
I have no drive whatsoever. If I l leave it to cool down to ambient, drive will come back as normal and work for about 2 minutes and then go back to no drive.
I think that a regulator ball bearing spring has snapped.

I'm an Audi and VW mechanic, trannys just are not my thing. 
The killer is that I just finished rebuilding the engine and put the whole thing back together.
The box was OK before I dismantled it so I assumed I would be OK.

When I did the rebuild, I replaced the complete timing chain assembly and guides along with the torque converter just to make sure that i did not have to take the engine and box out again any time soon!

So i was looking at your post yesterday on your EV valvebody from the link you provided. They seem to be very reasonable and are using Sonnax rebuild parts. 

I do have two or three questions for you...

Did you have to take the valvebody out to identify the specific type, prior to ordering? 

Can you give me more information on the cooling adapter that you refer to? perhaps a link?

Did you have electrical issues that you were aware of which necessitated the purchase of the shift solenoid harness?

Thank in advance for taking the time to reply!

Patrick.


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*Eurovan Trans :-(*

Patrick, 
Its nice to see VW techs on here . I am a Nissan Tech and bought the Eurovan for family outings. It doesn't say "i give up" like a regular mini vans does. I feel your trans pain for sure. VR^ feels strong but getting it to the ground is an issue.
I bought a cooler adapter like this http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/75496K.html from ebay. I have several coolers laying around the shop and just needed the adapter to make it work. The awesome people at Autobahn Trans Exchange just needed my VIN# to work up a valve body. I spoke to Jason there (one of the rebuilders there) and was VERY knowledgeable. A properly functioning valve body did fix some issues but also highlighted some internal failures. In my particular case (hard shift 1-2 and 2-1, and slip when hot) tells me K1 clutch pack (1-2-3 shifts) and seals may be my issue. I did not replace the brittle harness that attaches to the solenoids, and have no codes indicating that as a failure.
However, I am in the process of pulling the trans and ripping it apart to find the "smoking gun" of failure. I will be replacing the solenoid harness with my rebuild. We plan on taking long trips in this vehicle and I would much rather pay $95 now rather than being stranded in the middle of no where. 
I am doing the timing chains as well (ass-backward chains on the trans side, lol) while the trans it out. i have 152K and i believe they are original. Did you replace any sprockets? I heard they wear out.

Pics and more posts to follow.

Skip


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

The code for the valvebody is right on it when you pull the pan.


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*Digging in to the 01P*

Hi guys. I pulled the trans on my Eurovan and tore it down looking for the smoking gun of failure that is resulting in my rough shifts and slipping under load. I found several failures. 1st was the total failure of the reverse clutch piston and spring. I kept finding small half-circular pieces of metal in the pan; spring fragments. The K1 clutch pack (gears 1-3) pressure plate was broken in to 20 pieces but still in place in the drum. The clutches and steels below were fried. I have been driving the van like this for several weeks efore teardown and, looking at the parts, I am surprised she even moved. Rebuild parts should be here Monday and I can put this mess back together. Interesting trans. No bands only clutches and brakes. In my opinion (for the exception of the massive diff unit) VW is asking quite a lot of this trans to move a 7 passenger van. Cooler. Cooler. Cooler.


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## mekramer001 (Jun 30, 2004)

*skipstang's can o' worms*

:wave:

After looking at the 01P guts somewhere there is someone who just now recognized where that part found under their workbench belongs...

Some things to think about (or now that you're reading it on the internet, just to give you courage to take even more stuff apart):

1. Clutch packs assembly tolerancing. As I recall the assembled packs have had ever-narrowing acceptable tolerances applied as more HP has been bolted to the tranny over the years. Without a selection of clutches and steels to choose from, not sure how you can build it to spec. Might be best to try and buy the assembled pack from a knowledgeable rebuilder.

2. Torque converter. The mileage on the van and pump output pressure go hand in hand with clutch pack failure. So rebuilding the TC/pump is just as important as everything else.

3. Valve body. It's very likely that there are near-microscopic bits stuck in valve body passages and firmly lodged under check balls.

Basically, if your goal is to keep the van on the road for awhile, take the approach of "blueprinting" the whole transmission, meaning take it to factory build specs in every way. The challenge will be to find the factory specs for your model year, since the computer shift map and trans are linked.

Most of the reason for variability in how long the original or rebuilt transmissions last not only has to do with how its been driven and maintained, but also how true to spec the unit was built to in the first place.

The approach of replacing what looks broken and renewing other bits might get you back on the road for awhile, but you might regret that future camping trip to "no one can find me now-istan".

If you PM me, I can send a technician guide that might amuse you for awhile. I recall seeing rebuild specs somewhere, I can search for those, too.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

skipstang said:


> Hi guys. I pulled the trans on my Eurovan and tore it down looking for the smoking gun of failure that is resulting in my rough shifts and slipping under load. I found several failures. 1st was the total failure of the reverse clutch piston and spring. I kept finding small half-circular pieces of metal in the pan; spring fragments. The K1 clutch pack (gears 1-3) pressure plate was broken in to 20 pieces but still in place in the drum. The clutches and steels below were fried. I have been driving the van like this for several weeks efore teardown and, looking at the parts, I am surprised she even moved. Rebuild parts should be here Monday and I can put this mess back together. Interesting trans. No bands only clutches and brakes. In my opinion (for the exception of the massive diff unit) VW is asking quite a lot of this trans to move a 7 passenger van. Cooler. Cooler. Cooler.



A giant cooler does wonders for this undersized tranny.
Be doubly sure when you set the preload on the 2 output bearings(diff and tranny), else you'll get the dreaded whine and have to take it apart again in 10kmi.

Thanks for posting pics, that was awesome to see.

I feel the pumps are a major wear item on these, yet they almost never get any attention during a 'rebuild'. Pump gets weak, oil gets dirty, dirty oil wears out the VB, everything works harder, clutches start to warp and fry, killing the oil, everything gets hotter and dirtier, owner gets pissed, tranny goes belly up. ;-)

In 05, I wish I had listened to the sage advice of changing the oil every 20k. Shortly after that, I installed a tranny cooler, that ended up being too small, and a scangauge. The cooler did wonders, but I already heated the tranny on a long climb.

I now have an almost large enough, for CA, with a thermostat. A perfect solution would be to relocate a fan based cooler, with thermo, to an area not in front of the rad. I feel the rad for the van is undersized and easily lets the water temp go to 210F+ on a climb(this with my tranny cooler in front of it).

These are the problems you get when VW sticks the tranny from a Golf into a van made to carry 7 people, nevermind the van weighs 1500+ lbs more than the Golf empty. 

Lastly, remember never to climb any hill in D. Shift down to 2 on steeps, or even 1. Keep the rpms and mph in a range where your engine doesn't overheat.


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## misterbee (Sep 2, 2007)

*tranny slipping*

Thank goodness for this forum. I have to confess that most of the content here goes way over my head, as I haven't worked on a car in 20 years, and even then I just did minor stuff. More's the pity, because I am in a long-term relationship with a '99 Eurovan Camper, and the transmission is starting to slip. I first noticed it last week when I gave it the gas for a quick maneuver. 

Since then, whenever I put it into drive, it slips a bit before the vehicle moves, and it shifts hard into 2nd and 3rd. In 4th, the RPMs are a little higher than they used to be at 65 mph. Then the CEL came on, and my ScanGauge threw a code P740, which seems to indicate that the TC is not fully engaging. I have read that this can be caused by the valve body not operating correctly. Since I am a little fuzzy on the relationship between all the parts of the tranny, does this all make any sense?

Fortunately, I seem to have found a local specialist who understands these things. I just hope to learn enough of the language to be able to communicate with him clearly.


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*Trans cooler*

Rensho, than you for confirming my suspicion that I NEED an external cooler "A giant cooler does wonders for this undersized tranny". I am in the desert south west and have high tems and steep inclines. What size is your cooler (width, height, thickness)? The one I am planning to install is aprox 13" x 10" and 1.5" thick. I am hoping it will be enough. Maybe a thermostatically controlled fan might be in its future too. 
New parts have arrived and rebuild is underway. More pics of the progress to follow.


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*01P rebuild continues...*

Hi guys. I have received my rebuild parts. I am replacing all my seals, planetary bearing and washer, bushings, frictions and steels, K1 pressure plate (old one was in several pieces), reverse clutch spring, and the updated 4th gear clutch packs, K3 I believe. They are the small orange frictions in the following pics. They are from Alto products and are individual friction plates and steel plates; replacing the friction on one side and steel on the other side clutch plates I found installed there. 
Since I plan on using this vehicle to drag the family around the greater southwest united states if I questioned anything inside the trans I replaced it. Small price to pay now to prevent being stranded in the middle on nowhere because a $2 part I choose not to replace failed. After the trans rebuild is done I will be replacing the timing chains/guides/tensioners as well. 153K and original parts in there. The trans is already out. I am a glutton for punishment. Apply the same logic as above.


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## rensho (Jan 21, 2002)

skipstang said:


> Rensho, than you for confirming my suspicion that I NEED an external cooler "A giant cooler does wonders for this undersized tranny". I am in the desert south west and have high tems and steep inclines. What size is your cooler (width, height, thickness)? The one I am planning to install is aprox 13" x 10" and 1.5" thick. I am hoping it will be enough. Maybe a thermostatically controlled fan might be in its future too.
> New parts have arrived and rebuild is underway. More pics of the progress to follow.


It is this cooler here. 
http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/4921-1K.html

video install:
http://www.rialtainfo.com/vw/transmission.htm#cooler

I live in San Jose area. If it were a hotter climate, I'd use a unit with a fan.

When you're moving 20-30mph, there is not enough airflow, especially if uphill. Also, the big cooler up front will lower your AC perf.

What I was going to do was cut a set of holes near the fog light, or remove the fog light and mount it behind the bumper.

For sure you want a thermostat, because the cooler is good for +90F ambient, so if it is cold out, you're tranny is slow to warm, and might only reach 80-90F +ambient, which will be too low.


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*Happy Eurovan*

Hi all. I must apologize for the gap in time since I last posted. It was a long hot busy summer for me. The rebuild of the trans (and eurovan restoration) went well. I purchased everything for the trans, except the torque converter, from Autobahn Transmission Exchange. They were fairly priced and knew the product very well. I spoke to the rebuild tech there ,Robert, and he was super helpful and has a depth of knowledge regarding these odd trans. After a confirmation conversation with him I asked for parts quote. He has parts quoted I didn't know were bad untilIi tore the trans down! Eurovan trans whisperer!. The combo of the updated Alto frictions and rebuilt valve body with the improved sonex valves makes for a sold functional trans. Synth oil in the diff unit. External trans fluid cooler. Right foot on the floor she will tick off firm near red line shifts. Smooth VR6 power. Finally enjoying this vehicle. Over all very happy with the result. 

Also replaced: timing chains and related components, intake gaskets, spark plugs, ALL vacuum lines, AC compressor clutch (noisy), air filters, all mounts, front control arm bushings, shocks with bilstein, bump stops, front pads and rotors, 2 CV boots, PS fluid, brake fluid, coolant (I switched to green. I know ... let the comments begin), front and rear main seals, and resealed engine oil pan. 

I feel tired just thinking about all that stuff again. whew! The kids LOVE the van. Plenty of room and they like the sub I wired in to the stereo. "Make it Boom daddy"


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## Lithe (Apr 3, 2002)

*01m valve body in my 01p*

I have started to have harsh down shift from 3-2 and 2-1 lately. I changed the fluid and filter and noticed that my valve body part number is "01m 325 105f" 

A transmission shop near me did some work on my transmission after I bought my 1999 Eurovan from JDB Imports in Denver about 3 years ago. The trans was really shifting harsh from 1-2 when I got it. The shop replaced the valve body and the TCM to correct the problem. The previous owner had already installed a radiator style transmission cooler, to replace the weak factory version.

Fast forward 3 years, now I have the downshift problem. 

When it was working correctly you couldn't even tell when it was shifting up or down.

Question is, is the 01m valve body compatible with the 01p transmission? I thought they were different in how they were built based on the heavier Eurovan.

Any help?

Thanks,

Andy


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Lithe said:


> Question is, is the 01m valve body compatible with the 01p transmission? I thought they were different in how they were built based on the heavier Eurovan.


I don't think it's the valve body that is different but rather some of the other hardware.

This site lists the valve body for a 2003 Eurovan as a 01M:
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/prod...dy-TRANSMISSION-VALVE/5131873/01M325039F.html


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## CTSTDI (Mar 24, 2014)

*2000 EV 01p tranny failure / TDI conversion?*

The tranny in our otherwise trusty 2000 EV went south on us this weekend. I can't complain with 160+k miles on it. So now I am faced with the age old problem of what to do.
I hate to repair the transmission only to have the same issue down the road. Maybe it is time for a TDI conversion.
Can anyone offer some advice on making the conversion on a 2000 EV?
Should I go with the AHU engine and the 02b trans, or is it possible to use the ALH with the 02b?
To make things a bit easier I would work from a "donor" car so I can use all the components that are required.


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

Lithe said:


> Question is, is the 01m valve body compatible with the 01p transmission? I thought they were different in how they were built based on the heavier Eurovan.
> 
> Any help?
> 
> ...


Identical VB to certain 01M VBs yes, that's part of the problem!


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## EV99 (Nov 27, 2009)

skipstang said:


> I purchased everything for the trans, except the torque converter, from Autobahn Transmission Exchange.


Did you do anything to the converter? It would need to be cleaned out at a minimum.


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## jamnmon (Aug 17, 2013)

gti_matt said:


> I am thinking either the brake light switch (cheap!) or the electrical portion of the ignition switch (cheap! but a bit hard to get at to replace). Both things can fool the shifter safety lock into thinking the car's ignition isn't on and/or the brake pedal isn't depressed.


About 18 months ago, we bought an EVC with 290k miles on it... all original! 

Our first issue was what was the brake light swtich, but after that replacement, we had some rough shifts from 2nd to 3rd. Mechanic said it was fine and we continued on.

Last week, as my wife prepared for a 400 mile round trip camping adventure, the engine started pulsing between 1500-3000 RPMs when idling. Mechanic said it was an oxygen sensor and emission control device putting too much fuel into the combustion mixture. Said it was inconvenient at idle, but safe to drive. 

NOW... my wife is stuck 200 miles away. New mechanic out of town says the tranny is shot. I'm weighing my options here, but a bit at a loss. After reading numerous posts I'm thinking:

1. Have out of town mechanic do R/R on tranny from German Transaxle.
2. Trailer EVC back home, have my mechanic do R/R from German Transaxle.
3. Trailer EVC back home, explore other options.

We got a great deal on this EVC, due to the high miles, but it appears I'm going to pay for it now!

Note: I don't have any diagnostic codes.


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## djnibler (Aug 5, 2005)

Ouch, sorry that happened!

I wouldn't say for sure that the idle speed variation and the transmission issue are related. Also, a rough shift between 2nd and 3rd is common on these; mine did the same thing. I've heard from a lot of others stating the same. If you accelerate moderately around the time of the shift, it generally smooths out. 

Did you change the ATF after buying the van?

I'm a bit suspect of the local mechanic's diagnosis of the idle surging so I'm not sure how much better off you would be having a replacement transmission installed locally vs remotely. A transmission swap on these vans is not rocket science at all. It's really pretty easy except for it being a pain to wiggle the old one out and the new one in (very tight fit and you have to really angle it around and rock it around to get it to fit back in there). Any decent repair shop should do a fine job with it, so long as you ensure they fill it with the proper amount of full synthetic ATF (and that the SHOP doesn't rebuild the tranny, they just install the rebuilt one from German Transaxle). That's harder to do if the transmission has ever had ATF in it because some stays behind in the torque converter. But if you get a rebuilt one, German Transaxle will tell you exactly how much to put in it. 

But, before going down that road, how does the mechanic know the tranny is shot? How does he know it's the tranny and not the transmission computer, or the wiring, or the multifunction switch? What are the symptoms? Did he drain the ATF and if so, did it have a lot of metal in it?

If you really want to keep it a long time, do a 5-speed manual swap on it. That will obviously take longer to get the parts for and have done though.


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## jamnmon (Aug 17, 2013)

djnibler said:


> Ouch, sorry that happened!
> 
> Did you change the ATF after buying the van?
> 
> ...


We did service it at our local VW specialist (always a dozen or so vans hanging out there!).
I also was suspect of the out of town mechanic.

I did manage to limp the van home using manual override shifting. It got dicey after we hit some stop/go traffic through LA. The issues really started after the car had been running hot. The car just would shift into high gear. 

The vehicle is now at the local mechanic and he owes me a call for further diagnosis. I'll have him check all the possibilities listed above. 

Totally interested in the manual swap. Although I'm digging GoWesty's warranty. My buddy just told me he's on his THIRD tranny in his EVC. WoW


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## EurovanV6 (Aug 17, 2013)

.


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## EurovanV6 (Aug 17, 2013)

skipstang said:


> Hi guys. I have received my rebuild parts. I am replacing all my seals, planetary bearing and washer, bushings, frictions and steels, K1 pressure plate (old one was in several pieces), reverse clutch spring, and the updated 4th gear clutch packs, K3 I believe. They are the small orange frictions in the following pics. They are from Alto products and are individual friction plates and steel plates; replacing the friction on one side and steel on the other side clutch plates I found installed there.
> Since I plan on using this vehicle to drag the family around the greater southwest united states if I questioned anything inside the trans I replaced it. Small price to pay now to prevent being stranded in the middle on nowhere because a $2 part I choose not to replace failed. After the trans rebuild is done I will be replacing the timing chains/guides/tensioners as well. 153K and original parts in there. The trans is already out. I am a glutton for punishment. Apply the same logic as above.


Hey guys! I was wondering if someone could give me a rundown on how to remove the tranny. I just ordered a rebuilt one at German transaxle.
I have read before that the engine needs to be moved forward, or twisted to get the tranny out, not sure. Does the front end needs to be dismantled and do the radiation and condensers need to be removed. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*Trans removal.*

I have pulled the trans in and out several times and have tried different ways each time. Yes it will come out with the subframe in BUT i do NOT recommend it. I have a full shop, tranny jacks and other grease monkeys at my disposal and still fought it. A real pain in the ass!!! It requires a bit more time to remove the subframe but it is well worth it. The only decision you have to make is the steering rack. I let it attached to the sub frame one time (the better way) and removed the tie rod ends and left the rack in the car the other time (i was replacing the ripped boots). Leave the rack attached to the subframe. Put th driver's seat belt through the steering wheel so it doesn't spin on you and pull the fluid lines. Good luck


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*RE: torque converter*

I purchased a new torque converter from a CA based company I found on E-bay. Great service, no core, awesome reviews. After a failure like i had, the torque converter is full of trash and no way to clean it. Cheep insurance.


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## kauboi (Nov 3, 2004)

you mentioned pulling the trans a few times, what happened? 
Also, with regard to the subframe removal method, the engine comes out too?


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## skipstang (Aug 13, 2013)

*RE: kauboi*



kauboi said:


> you mentioned pulling the trans a few times, what happened?
> Also, with regard to the subframe removal method, the engine comes out too?


Ebay Torque converter i purchased locked up and didnt let go, would stall the van. Not a common failure. The place was great though, sent me a replacement right s way. Too much work to let a crummy torque converter mess it up.


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## my_vw_sucks (May 13, 2004)

Current way I feel about my 01P. Damn torque converter got hung up on the crank shaft and made it sooooo much harder to separate. Off to German Transaxle. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

I have a suggestion. Remove the whole front end. Then use a cherry picker to remove the engine and transmission as a unit. Separate the transmission with the torque converter facing uphill. It's way easier. Plus, waaay easier to put it all back together.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

my_vw_sucks said:


>


Not to minimize your situation but I LOL'd at that pic.:laugh:


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

Ever get a cold? And then go check the internet to see what's wrong? After a bit of searching you realize you a hybrid version of BirdFlu/AIDS/Cancer and shingles... You won't last the night. 

That same thing is occurring w/ my van. 
The lady and I were going up a Colorado pass in the 99 EVC (140,000 miles) when I noticed trouble shifting. It would lag between 3-4th in either direction. 
Read up on this issue some and discover I need a new transmission, and might as well do the timing chains while I'm in there. 
So I debate insurance fraud while wondering how to handle this problem. 

In the end I order a Scan Gauge and filter kit. 
Then I pull the pan for the oil change and see that things are likely not the presumed/assumed death of the tranny. 
Nothing on the magnet but sludge type stuff. Really nothing in there that's alarming to my untrained eye. No metal bits, no roadkill. 

I clean up the pan, install a new filter, and button it back up. 
No time for much of a test drive, certainly not enough time to drive up a high pass but I'll know soon if I dodged the bullet or not. 

*-The ScanGauge shows a very similar temp between the tranny and coolant. Usually within 1-2 degrees of each other. 
Do they share some heater core type deal? Is there a reason they'd be so similar? Or have I mis-calibrated that gadget? 

-Inside the trannsmission is the torque converter- Is the the same thing as a clutch? If I ever pull the transmission and replace it w/ a rebuild one, will that cover the clutch? *

Oh- and the ScanGauge? Meh. It's not so amazing. 
It sure does a heck of a lot but I only need about 2% of it's info. I'd bet that most users don't need to added complexity of it all. 

But, as before, thanks to you all for keeping this thread alive. 
VWVortex has helped, as usual.


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## KBATTPO (Jan 15, 2001)

Johnny Chicken Bones said:


> *-The ScanGauge shows a very similar temp between the tranny and coolant. Usually within 1-2 degrees of each other.
> Do they share some heater core type deal? *


Yes. There is a goofy and pitifully undersized for the task heat exchanger thing mounted on top of the transmission housing. Inside that thing a transmission fluid jacket is woven into a coolant jacket. The idea is to bring the transmission fluid quicker to the operating temperature from cold and to limit its top temperature by that of the coolant (ideally ~95°C). This heat exchanger fails to deliver miserably and is typically ditched w/o regret at the same time the external cooler is installed. BTW, I can't emphasize enough the need to do this modification in our vans.


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## misterbee (Sep 2, 2007)

*Quirky Scanguage*

I mounted a Scanguage in my EVC five years ago when I bought it, mostly to keep an eye on the tranny temp. There is a quirk in the standard settings that causes it to display and incorrect transmission temperature. To rectify it, you have to go deep in the settings and set up what they call an X Code. I can't recall how to do it anymore, but it's covered in the instructions. Here is a link to the code that you need: https://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/vw-specific-xgauges/



Johnny Chicken Bones said:


> Ever get a cold? And then go check the internet to see what's wrong? After a bit of searching you realize you a hybrid version of BirdFlu/AIDS/Cancer and shingles... You won't last the night.
> 
> That same thing is occurring w/ my van.
> The lady and I were going up a Colorado pass in the 99 EVC (140,000 miles) when I noticed trouble shifting. It would lag between 3-4th in either direction.
> ...


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## VW_Enthu1 (Oct 23, 2004)

gti_matt said:


> Not to minimize your situation but I LOL'd at that pic.:laugh:


I did too...almost spit my drink out on that one. My wife was laughing her head off too...and she is entitled to given that our original 2001 EVW stranded her in south GA with a blown trans at about 20K miles. We dumped the 2nd EVW before the trans/chain guide job hit us.


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

> Inside the trannsmission is the torque converter- Is the the same thing as a clutch? If I ever pull the transmission and replace it w/ a rebuild one, will that cover the clutch?


http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/torque-converter.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter


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## my_vw_sucks (May 13, 2004)

Johnny Chicken Bones: Does the scanguage have the functionality to pull fault codes? Might want to see if there is anything stored for the transmission. With the fact you were heading over a pass in CO you could simply have been overheating the fluid causing torque converter lock up issues. Might want to consider installing a cooler










Rebuilds, to quote GTA, include: all new friction plates, piston kit, VW valve body, internal wiring harness, speed sensors, and range switch. I called and asked if the include a new torque converter and they said yes.


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

Thanks everyone. This is a great thread/site. 
Spend some time on other sites and you'll see what a lack of help is out there. Just criticism and anger!

Anyway- the SG does pull codes, nothing showing. 
I'll keep my fingers crossed about it just overheating but am not too optimistic. 
I live in Colorado and have driven this van all over the place since 2006 when I purchased it. 
No issues until now. 
And like telling the dentists about flossing- I wish I had changed the fluid more. Certainly will now that I more clearly understand the problems. 

I've seen photos of the VW heat exchanger. Little aluminum bread box looking thing? 
Where is it located on the tranny? 
How hard is it to install the cooler? A few hundred seems cheap compared to the new tranny. 

-JCB


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

Just remember, these transmissions can still fail with regular oil changes and a cooler. Also, most of the time you'll never get a code because it's a mechanical failure (as opposed to something like a bad speed sensor or solenoid). When it smokes a clutch pack or not enough oil pressure to operate the clutch packs, it won't throw a code. Most of the failures are because of a lack of oil pressure. That can come from a wore out valve body or the pistons on the clutch packs are hard and can't seal properly. When that happens, some clutch pack will slip and eventually go out. This has been going on for as long as I have been working on automatic transmissions and from what I've seen on these and the same era Jetta/Golf/Beetle (which has the same guts in it but a different case).


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## Rustyjames (Dec 6, 2015)

Hi fellow VW owners,

I joined this forum because this topic interested me. I'm the second owner of a 2000 Eurovan GLS that I bought a few years back. It currently has about 45,000 miles on it and seems to have been well taken care of. I don't know if the trans has every been serviced. I can't do the work myself because of a disability, can anyone recommend a repair shop in the central NJ region?


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## my_vw_sucks (May 13, 2004)

Here's the heat exchanger looking straight down at the trans. 

jjvincent makes a good point. My trans couldn't build enough pressure to engage forward gears. There were no codes related to it. I did however have a torque converter lockup code. I'm assuming this was unrelated and was most like due to prior overheat. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jlwj (Dec 6, 2007)

*A New Question on the EV Transmission*

Hello All,

This question may be answered elsewhere on the board, but I haven't been able to find it. So, here goes..

2003 Eurovan:

Last week, I noticed that when going down hills, my EV would slow down. I checked the brakes, no problems there. I put the transmission into Neutral and it went just fine, nothing holding it back, so I now figure it is the transmission.

I have no check engine lights, the fluid looks good, (checked the level, when warm), doesn't smell burnt. I could smell something that smelled like brakes smell on big trucks when they ride them down long hills, but only on the drivers side, near the wheel.

I will be hooking up a VAG to see if there are any errors... (not sure what I should look for).

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated... I'm really in the dark on this.

I should say that, up until now (143K), I've had no problems with the transmission. I get the transmission fluid and filter changed regularly.

Again,
Thanks for any ideas..
Jim
03 EV


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

Great info. That shot of the transmission w/ the heat exchanger on top- perfect. Thanks. 

Drove a few hours yesterday- no hesitations w/ any shifting. Seemed normal. 
I'm hoping to limp this trans along thru the winter and longer. If it acts up, I'll delve further. 

In a phone conversation w/ Richard at Kansas City TDI (very helpful BTW, will be gettign my business as it occurs) he felt that a slow shift from 3-4 and back might not be related to the valve body or it's solenoids. He didn't feel it was a common symptom of failing solenoids. 
*Anyone want to weigh in on that? Or more accurately- if it's not the solenoids (and more easily fixed w/ a cheaper rebuilt valve body) what might I look at next? 

2nd Question- What does installing the cooler look like? How hard is it to reach that exchanger on the top of the trans?*
Seems simple enough, except for access. 


By the time this is over, I'll have a new trans- just slowly, bit by bit!


Thanks
-JCB


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## Fiddler51 (Apr 7, 2014)

*After Market Trans Cooler Installation*

Go to Poptopheaven.com

Click on videos in the navigation links. 

Detailed instructions on how to install a transmission cooler. 

I did it and it works great!


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## KBATTPO (Jan 15, 2001)

Johnny Chicken Bones said:


> 2nd Question- What does installing the cooler look like? How hard is it to reach that exchanger on the top of the trans?[/B]
> Seems simple enough, except for access.


Yes, it is simple, effective and dirt cheap for what it does for our expensive to replace transmissions.

I have installed this kit (49211K) into mine. You don't really need the thermal bypass; it just restricts the flow. To the best of my knowledge this is the least expensive kit on the market.

Here it is in my van:









The installation is trivial with basic hand tools:
Part 1 and so on.

I also recommend adding a gauge to monitor the transmission fluid temperature.


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

Great Info! 
I'm betting the ole van will be wearing a new cooler before too long. 
Thanks for the links. 

I'm using the Scan Gauge, no idea if it's accurate or not but am interested to see how the temps change w/ a cooler. 
What temps should the temps be around? 

-JCB


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## KBATTPO (Jan 15, 2001)

With the cooler the temperature never creeps above 60°C in normal city driving here in Philly. I briefly saw 80°C on a highway in Texas and Nevada but I was doing over 100mh.

High temperatures kill transmission fluid. From what I read, once the fluid reaches 100°C it is pretty much cooked


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

My van is driven mostly in the winter for climbing trips. Lots of cold cold temps. 
Anything I'll need to know about running a cooler when we wake up to neg 20F temps? 

-JCB


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## KBATTPO (Jan 15, 2001)

That's -30°C. Perhaps you do need that thermal bypass after all.


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## jjwithers (Sep 1, 2010)

Oh man... i just read through this thread and I'm confused, scared and scratching my head. 
I bought a 2002 Weekender from a VW mechanic friend. He's had it for about 5 years and barely drove it. I've probably put about 300-400 miles on it. 
128k on the clock. Not totally sure of the service history before he had it. But he's done a few minor things to the engine. 
I'm loving the van but on occasion, i get a small bump in the shifting. Not consistent. Not on every trip. But it does happen. 
The other day I had two hard shifts though. It is like the car goes into neutral between gears and then it kicks in and almost feels like I got lightly rear-ended. I'd guess it is between 2nd and 3rd gear. 
Then I drove it yesterday and it was shifting smooth as butter. 
Is it the computer? Valves? tranny itself? torque converter... ?
Should I change out the fluid and start there?


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

JJ-
Don't lose too much sleep yet. The internet can easily fuel fears more than hope if you let it. 

I've had my 99 Eurovan Camper since 2006. In that time I have not changed the transmission fluid as I perhaps should have. So, yes- change that, and keep changing that. Folks say every 15,000-20,000 is reasonable. 
And, as you've read above, add a cooler to ease the wear on that transmission. 

My dear van has had odd occasional hard shifts between 2-3 also. Always has. 

-JCB


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## KBATTPO (Jan 15, 2001)

jjwithers said:


> ...on occasion, i get a small bump in the shifting. Not consistent. Not on every trip. But it does happen.
> The other day I had two hard shifts though. It is like the car goes into neutral between gears and then it kicks in and almost feels like I got lightly rear-ended.


Mine does exactly the same thing. I learned to live with it. Probably a feature of this transmission. OTOH I have a very limited experience with automatics. This one is probably my 3rd of all the cars that I had owned.


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## jjwithers (Sep 1, 2010)

Thanks guys. I am going to look into the closest place to get the tranny fluid changed as soon as time allows. 
There is an instant oil change place by my house (used to be a jiffy lube) but I will seek out a transmission shop or VW person instead just in case something fishy is going on under there.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

jjwithers said:


> Thanks guys. I am going to look into the closest place to get the tranny fluid changed as soon as time allows.
> There is an instant oil change place by my house (used to be a jiffy lube) but I will seek out a transmission shop or VW person instead just in case something fishy is going on under there.


I would ensure that you find somewhere that definitely knows VWs. The fluid is a synthetic that isn't ye olde Dexron II. Given the fragility of these transmissions, I would not trust it to someone that doesn't lean towards VWs on a regular basis.


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

Matt it right. Also, if anyone who works on VW's but doesn't want to touch an EV, let them know that changing the ATF on an EV is the same as doing it on something like a Golf or Jetta of the same era (or pretty much ant VAG product). The EV is nothing special. It's really easy.
1. Drain it.
2. Pull the pan
3. Change the filter
4. Fill it with the amount the shop manual says
5. Log into the transmission controller and bring up the trans temp.
6. Pull the plug out of the chimney in the pan.
7. Run it until the transmission is to temp as per the shop manual (fluid will start running out)
8. Reinstall the chimney plug and you are done.


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## KBATTPO (Jan 15, 2001)

I wrote earlier:


KBATTPO said:


> With the cooler the temperature never creeps above 60°C in normal city driving here in Philly. I briefly saw 80°C on a highway in Texas and Nevada but I was doing over 100mh.
> 
> High temperatures kill transmission fluid. From what I read, once the fluid reaches 100°C it is pretty much cooked


Today was a nice warm day here in Philly (gotta love +17°C in mid-December!). As you can see in the pic below the transmission temperature hovered just above +60°C. Sorry for the lousy picture quality - I seldom use my cellphone for picture taking and today was that rare occasion.


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

KBATTPO said:


> I wrote earlier:
> 
> 
> Today was a nice warm day here in Philly (gotta love +17°C in mid-December!). As you can see in the pic below the transmission temperature hovered just above +60°C. Sorry for the lousy picture quality - I seldom use my cellphone for picture taking and today was that rare occasion.


What is that thing? You driving a spaceship now? 
Not wanting to look like an idiot I studied your photo. 
Still don't know where you are seeing the the 60c in that shot. 

My van seems to hover near 200f/93c. Any thoughts on that? Does it seem particularly high? 
I'm headed towards a cooler. Some trans rebuilds come with one so I'm waiting to see how bad mine is before spending/installing and then having to do it all again.


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## gti_matt (Oct 9, 1999)

Johnny Chicken Bones said:


> Still don't know where you are seeing the the 60c in that shot.


Round gauge at upper left.


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

As the EV transmissions fail- what usually goes? 
Is there a "usually"? Solenoids in the valve bodies? Torque converters? 

From everything I have read, new rebuilt trans come w/ all sorts of new debris. I'm guessing it's more of a shotgun fix? As in- as long as it's open, why not replace anything that wears out. 

I haven't had enough miles on mine since the oil change but suspect that (as someone stated above) the issue isn't gone and will be back. 

If the slow and seemingly unpredictable shifts between 3rd and 4th continue- what component of the trans might be responsible for this? 

I hope you are all enjoying some holiday time w/ those you care most about. 

-JCB


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## bigfatgeek (Feb 5, 2005)

Happy first birthday to my EuroVan's replacement transmission:



(12/24/14)

That was a not-so-nice surprise, especially coming less than a week before I was relocating 530 miles north.


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## frankbanales (Jan 26, 2016)

*95 EV- New ECU now having transmission problems*

Bought a 95 EV Camper (155k miles) last year and drove it down from Portland to Reno.Just put in a new ECU (from VW Cassics Parts...had friend in Rome buy it and ship to US...apparently VW Classic Parts no longer ships to US). Turns out water had been leaking into the old ECU via a small crack in the plastic casing (the plastic cover on the wiring near the outside of the ECU had worn a spot thin through vibration over time). The radio antenna above the ECU was the water source. Anyways...the transmission went into limp mode a few miles after putting in the new ECU and the Check Engine light came on. Took it to my local independent VW mechanic (works on EVs) and found five fault codes:

00518 Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
00652 Gear Monitoring
00638 Engine/Transmission Electrical Connection 2
00545 Engine Transmission Electrical Connection
01192 Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch

VW mechanic said I probably needed new transmission. Starting EV after mechanic's diagnosis the check engine light came back on. Before leaving the shop I performed manual TCM reset. Started the EV and no more Check Engine Light. The van was no longer in limp mode but still had some shifting problems. Reverse is fine. 1st does nothing until reving at about 2000 rpm for about 10 seconds and then it hard shifts into gear...then hard shifts into 2nd and then less hard into third. Within a minute or two the hard shifting mellows out and becomes much more intermittent. Runs at highway speeds with no problems. I'm no mechanic but after reading through multiple EV Transmission posts it seems my problem may be computer based as a result of the new ECU. I installed the new ECU out of the box without the local dealership programming codes...they said it would only effect the cruise control and that I could take it in for programming after the fact. Any of you experienced EV guys have any suggestions? Vag-Com for better TCM reset? Throttle Body Reset? I'm no mechanic but to all of the sudden begin experiencing these problems after a new ECU install (yes it's the correct ECU)...I'm hoping for a solution other then heading up to German Tranaxle for a new/rebuilt. Finally snow in Tahoe and I haven't been able to set up shop with my "new" ski bum van. Sage advice appreciated.


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## jjwithers (Sep 1, 2010)

Just an update to my occasional hard shifts. It turned out that my transmission was low on fluid by a little more then a half a quart. It has been topped off and so far everything shifts OK. I can feel a very very slight hesitation between gears on rare occasion but it doesn't give the 'delay-then-bam' type of shifts anymore. 
Fingers crossed the low fluid pressure is the culprit.


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

If you unplug the transmission, it will manually shift (there's a manual linkage that operates a piston on the valve body). It goes like this. Put it in 1st, it goes into 1st. Put it in 2nd, it stays in 1st. Put it in 3rd, it goes to 3rd. Put it in 4th, it stays in 3rd. Put it in N it's in neutral. Put it in R it goes in Reverse. Put it in P and it goes into park. Torque converter will not lock up. This is pretty much the limp mode of the transmission.

You should never have to rev the engine up for it to engage 1st. If you do, it's a problem inside the transmission.

I suggest pulling the pan and filter. Break the filter apart to see if there are any goodies hidden inside of it. Then, put the pan back on, new filter and refill with new fluid.


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## Johnny Chicken Bones (Mar 9, 2011)

*Anybod Read This Thread Anymore? Hopiing for some diagnostics please.*

If you don't remember my VWs Trans story- It goes like this. 
150,000 miles. 99 EVC. Never enough Trans Oil changes. Prob 2? In 60,000.

Last fall going up some hills here in Colorado there was some odd action and two loud BANGs. 
Like reading WebMD I started reading about the EVC transmission and realized I (would die before morning) and was about to spend way too much. Slowed things down a bit and looked deeper into it. Things weren't as dire as I'd thought. 

No metal in the bottom of the pan. Zero. 
In fact- nothing suspicious in the oil changes. Did two in a short time just to make sure some of the ancient fluids were flushed out. 

Several months of biking and climbing trips later and the thing has not let me down but has a few issues. 
I'm hoping some of you can point me towards a possible culprit. 

When accelerating it seems to hang in 3rd too long. There's a surge like it's going to shift, doesn't, then a bit later will drop into 4th. 
Also seems to stay in 4th more than it maybe should. 

I'm trying to avoid pulling the entire trans so am hoping it's something simple? Maybe I can pull the valve body and have it rebuilt? Seems easy enough for a slouch mech like myself. 

Any thoughts? 
And thanks. 

-JCBones.


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## misterbee (Sep 2, 2007)

*Reset?*

Have your tried resetting the adaptive programming on the transmission? I don't recall the procedure but it should be easy to find on the web. Something like turn the ignition to "on", hold down the gas pedal for 10 seconds, pat your head and run your tummy. 

Otherwise, rebuilding the valve body might help...

BTW, I subscribe to this thread, in order to get all the posts. You never know when something useful might come along.


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## jjwithers (Sep 1, 2010)

Johnny Chicken Bones said:


> When accelerating it seems to hang in 3rd too long. There's a surge like it's going to shift, doesn't, then a bit later will drop into 4th.
> Also seems to stay in 4th more than it maybe should.
> 
> -JCBones.


My 2002 weekender is new to me. I put about 1000 miles on it and it shifts the same way. I have talked to other owners and some say that is normal, others say it was a sign before their transmission completely failed. 
Two suggestions I got from mechanics who know VW's are to reset the adaptive transmission or rebuild the valve body. 
I did top off the transmission fluid and it helped. It was a bit more then a half quart low. 

-Josh


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

Whenever you change the oil, break the filter apart and take a look at what's inside. The filter is the best design ever because when the transmission dumps it's parts into the pan, they get sucked back up and live inside the filter. Most of the time, the oil looks just fine and no garbage is in it. For example when mine took a dump, the pan was nice and clean. No signs whatsoever of any type of failure. Once I broke apart the filter, that told the tale. It was full of broken springs, plastic and clutch material. This is pretty much the case with every 01M transmission (which shares the same internals as the EV transmission).


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## IamVWjoe (Oct 21, 2016)

*What exactly do you unplug?*



jjvincent said:


> If you unplug the transmission, it will manually shift (there's a manual linkage that operates a piston on the valve body). It goes like this. Put it in 1st, it goes into 1st. Put it in 2nd, it stays in 1st. Put it in 3rd, it goes to 3rd. Put it in 4th, it stays in 3rd. Put it in N it's in neutral. Put it in R it goes in Reverse. Put it in P and it goes into park. Torque converter will not lock up. This is pretty much the limp mode of the transmission.


What exactly are you unplugging?


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## jjvincent (Dec 8, 2003)

Transmission controller plug.


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## pitzury (Jul 7, 2017)

*Thermostat: To be or not to be! That is the question*

So many stories out there about thermostats in an air/oil cooling system being good, bad or both at the same time. Than comes the temperature range of these thermostats into debate.
This is what I believe: Too hot trans fluid is bad, cold is not good. A thermostat regardless of the operating temp range helps warm up the fluid faster to a higher temp than a system without a thermostat and it does that in any weather especially in cold weather. Some say however that most thermostats do not force all the fluid through the coolers until it reaches 88*C and that gives little room for effective cooling. I say not if the cooler is sized properly for the application and installed in a good air path. Plus people talk about "ideal" trans fluid temperature but it is not mentioned where in the transmission is ideal to have that temp: in the oil pan before it is sent to "work" through the passages and converter? Well in our case does the fluid get cooled after the work has done and before returning to the oil pan or before it goes to work? If it is after, than I believe that a hot fluid will go exclusively through the cooler only when it reaches 88 C and return to the oil pan cooled.
So my questions are:
1. Where is the temp reading done by the TCM?
2.Cooling done before or after the work done by the trans fluid? 
Anybdy can tell where the cooling passages lead to?


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## pitzury (Jul 7, 2017)

I wrote my findings here http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=402195&page=9
Anybody wants to chime in?


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## pitzury (Jul 7, 2017)

*Shudder in 1st gear and shift from 1-2*

Trans fluid cooling works fine with temps in the 180's Fahrenheit or less most of the times. Fluid is very clean after about 10K miles, barely able to see it on the dipstick. 
Drove the van at high speeds on a highway and seemed to get the trans fluid hotter than usually but no more than 190 F. I got the car with Lock Up clutch code memorized which did not reappeared after fluid changes and cooling upgrades. So now I was thinking the TCC was slipping somewhat at high speeds and that's why the temps went up on the highway. No codes found.
A few weeks ago however had a temporary malfunction: Drove the van for about 60 miles of winding roads with often manual shifting to 3rd and sometimes to 2nd gears. I reached an intersection where I had to stop and felt a hit right before the stop like something hit me from behind. Than accelerating through gears felt sluggish and when in fourth seemed to disengage the lockup clutch and rev up. It was trafic and I was not able to see if other things besides revving up and down were happening. Back to this in a little bit. 
Reached my destination, turned the engine off for a little bit, no check engine light or trans malfunction lights. On the way back no symptoms no problems. Checked for trans codes thinking my TCC code was back again: no codes.
A few days ago could not start the engine since the gear selector would show the trans shifted to D no matter where the stick would be: P or N. It would get in limp mode and could only start after clearing the Multi Function Switch code I was getting. But once started it would rev by itself in 4th gear like the TCC was engaging and disengaging for no reason at constant load. But at one point when it was doing that I noticed the gears display switching from 4th to 3rd gear when the over revving was occurring. maybe that's what was happening the first time I felt the random over revving. After a day of driving the Multi Function Switch just gave up and could not clear the code to start the car up. As soon as I would turn the ignition on, the display would highlight D and than go to limp mode and no start. Changed the switch and things got back to normal.
Or so I thought. Yesterday I felt a shudder almost every time at shifting from 1st to 2nd gear like I would go over pedestrian crosswalk warning bumps. Fluid temp was at 180F. Stopped the car and checked the trans fluid level. I have a mark on the dipstick where it should be at that temp and it seemed about 6mm lower. Later checked at 36"C and added about 250ML since I have a small leak at the coolers fittings.
The shudders seem to happen once the fluid temp is up and it would also have delayed engagement in Drive with shudder right after engagement if no gas is applied. Reverse seems to work better. I put it in 1st gear and let of the brakes a little , the car is creeping forward and, if I push the brakes harder, I feel the hit in the back like something hits the car from behind. Just like it happened right before the stop a few weeks back. I cannot find any information about these hits before the stop. What is going on?
TCC slippage in first gear is almost up to 1000RPM which I don't know if it is too much. When the TCC is applied there is 15-30RPM to none slippage so there seems to be nothing wrong with the TCC clutch.
Another thing I am noticing is that the fluid temps towards the external cooler and back from it are much closer to each other than before once the thermostat should be closed. That could happen because of a lot more fluid diverted to the cooler or false temperature "readings" at the thermostat because of overcooling in negative Celsius weather. I probably should T into the return line after the thermostat anyway to get that possibility out of the way. Of course no trouble codes.
I ordered a TransGo shift kit http://www.transgo.com/products.php...ory_id=152&parent_id=46&product_id=63&start=0 and plan to remove the Valve Body for inspection and kit install. Hope to find the problems there.
I know it's a lot if information but I hope it will help somebody to figure out what may be wrong. Any ideas?


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## pitzury (Jul 7, 2017)

Here is somebody else having the same problems: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=654569&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
TransGo shift kit did not work in one case and seemed to work in the other one.
I believe it is pressure related and must have something to do with the valve body to begin with.


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## turbo+ (May 10, 2012)

*hard shift*

mine had a hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. I knew exactly when it would shift, so I let of the gas and it shifted into 2nd, then I continued to accelerate. Drove it like that for a year. But I found clutch pieces in my transmission filter - had to pry open the filter to see.
Had my transmission rebuild and it lasts already more than 14k miles (knock on wood). Whole process cost me $1800 (including installation)


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## jjwithers (Sep 1, 2010)

turbo+ said:


> mine had a hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. I knew exactly when it would shift, so I let of the gas and it shifted into 2nd, then I continued to accelerate. Drove it like that for a year. But I found clutch pieces in my transmission filter - had to pry open the filter to see.
> Had my transmission rebuild and it lasts already more than 14k miles (knock on wood). Whole process cost me $1800 (including installation)


$1800??? Where and who did the work for that little? I had the same issue and drove it the same way to avoid the hard shift (as soon as tranny slipped, I let off the gas). 
I was quoted between $4000-6000
I found a guy in Los Angeles who is very honest, a tad slow, but did great work for $2400. I've got over 1000 miles since the rebuild and no issues.


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