# Dash cams



## bateau (Jun 16, 2013)

Folks, is anyone running a dash cam in their Tiguan? Can you share tips on how you wired it up. 

I would like to get a dual-camera setup for our new Tiguan.


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## animest4r (Nov 2, 2012)

Interested on this too!


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## samuelrh (Feb 4, 2017)

Yes! I have a single A119S camera wired into the fuse box. It's cheap, easy to install (15 minutes or so) and does the job well.

To hardwire it, I used a kit like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Hard...&qid=1515778495&sr=1-3&keywords=a119+hardwire
The fuse box is located behind the driver-side cubby. You can then route the USB cable inside the A-pillar and directly into the camera - it's fairly easy to do and it looks great.

I shopped for front and rear cameras, but it's rather expensive if you want a good one, and much more complicated to install.


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## socialD (Sep 19, 2011)

I already had two on hand. For the rear I just have it plugged into the 12v socket back there rather than hardwire. Then just tucked the cable to hide it.


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

I went with more of a factory look and got one that replaces the rear view mirror cover. Had to fish the wires across the roof and down the A pillar - headache and 3 cut fingers later I was done. Add a fuse and tapped the ground I made for my wireless charger. Came with 16G card and has 1080p. Creates Wi-Fi host to connect to your devices so you can adjust settings and view download videos. 
I have Garmin in my Golf - windshield magnet mount again hardwired at the fuse box.









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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

Blackvue DR650 Dual Channel 
Ran it behind all the mirror covers following path of factory wiring. 
Tucked underneath the headliner, the wires to the rear go via the top pushed towards to the middle of the car to avoid airbag interference. 
The back portion for the hatch took a bit of creativity and cursing to get the wiring through but its all sitting on top of the headliner itself. 
I found a constant and accessory fuse and thats it. 

Easy stuff but I do this almost on a regular basis


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

Coderedpl said:


> Blackvue DR650 Dual Channel
> Ran it behind all the mirror covers following path of factory wiring.
> Tucked underneath the headliner, the wires to the rear go via the top pushed towards to the middle of the car to avoid airbag interference.
> The back portion for the hatch took a bit of creativity and cursing to get the wiring through but its all sitting on top of the headliner itself.
> ...


Is the rear 720 or the finally came up with dual 1080?

This was my wish to go with cam, but I saw some YT vids with poor night resolution at night and steer me away. Well cost also 

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## socialD (Sep 19, 2011)

This is what I tapped for power. No idea what it is supposed to be since VW doesn't like to share the fuse diagram. But it's an empty with switched power.

















This is what I used for ground.









Have it mounted on the dot matrix which helps obscure it from outside prying eyes.









I went the easy route for the rear. Independent cam just plugged in to the 12v socket back there. Run most of the wiring just under the weatherstrip then a couple stick on wire organizing clips to keep the slack tidy for when it opens and closes. I wasn't about to try to shove a usb end through a grommet to do it the "right" way. I do like the above solution though of just running it all the way down the headliner and still have power up front. May try that. Also like the slim form factor of that one ^. If buying new I'd be looking for something like that. These two I've had for awhile.


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## jpatelg (Sep 29, 2016)

Iljata said:


> I went with more of a factory look and got one that replaces the rear view mirror cover. Had to fish the wires across the roof and down the A pillar - headache and 3 cut fingers later I was done. Add a fuse and tapped the ground I made for my wireless charger. Came with 16G card and has 1080p. Creates Wi-Fi host to connect to your devices so you can adjust settings and view download videos.
> I have Garmin in my Golf - windshield magnet mount again hardwired at the fuse box.
> 
> 
> ...


Have a manufacturer and model number?


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## bateau (Jun 16, 2013)

@Coder, do you have sunroof? How did you arrange wiring on the hatch? If cursing was involved I assume you tried to go through factory grommets that with the rest of the wires? 

socialD’s approach looks easier tho not as integrated. 


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## KeVWin (Nov 5, 2017)

*Garmin 45*

I ordered the Garmin 45 on sale from Costco. Waiting to install it still, got in a fender bender, so the Tiguan is still at the body shop. The only downside I see to this unit is that the Parking mode only works if you purchase a separate parking mode cable for ~$40. Thanks to Iljata for showing where they tapped into the fuse box!


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

KeVWin said:


> I ordered the Garmin 45 on sale from Costco. Waiting to install it still, got in a fender bender, so the Tiguan is still at the body shop. The only downside I see to this unit is that the Parking mode only works if you purchase a separate parking mode cable for ~$40. Thanks to Iljata for showing where they tapped into the fuse box!


I used the same fuse slot as socialID - I believe it's the only switched slot where add-on will fit. I have 55 installed in my MK6 TDi. If you want Garmin to record while stationary/car off with out the $50unit you should connect unswitched source. Here on the Mk2 Tig - there are total of 3 terminals in the fuse box where you can tap too. Cam consumption is very minimal and if you have heathy battery should be Ok.

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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

jpatelg said:


> Have a manufacturer and model number?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I got one for the Mk2Tig from Aliexpres.
http://s.aliexpress.com/uINfYRV3?fromSns=Copy 

Have extra one for sale that fits Mk7 golf if anyone interested.

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## socialD (Sep 19, 2011)

If I didn’t already have a couple laying around that is probably what I would get for a more oem look. Wonder if it works with all trims and the homelink mirror given all the various combos of electronics stuffed up there.


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

socialD said:


> If I didn’t already have a couple laying around that is probably what I would get for a more oem look. Wonder if it works with all trims and the homelink mirror given all the various combos of electronics stuffed up there.


Camera mounts to the mirror base. I think all trims have the same windshield base mount regardless of having the humidity sensor or not. What did u end up doing when u upgrade from stock mirror?

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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

Iljata said:


> Is the rear 720 or the finally came up with dual 1080?
> 
> This was my wish to go with cam, but I saw some YT vids with poor night resolution at night and steer me away. Well cost also
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


The new one DR750 is finally 1080p on the rear. 
The one I have is 720p. Good enough, video isn't THAT bad. 

You won't find perfection in dash cams yet, not exactly like a GoPro or night vision hah



socialD said:


> This is what I tapped for power. No idea what it is supposed to be since VW doesn't like to share the fuse diagram. But it's an empty with switched power.
> 
> 
> This is what I used for ground.
> ...


I believe I used a similar source, ground wasn't hard to find either. I'd recommend the blackvue DR750 (newest one) / Blacksys CH200 / OR most expensive option Thinkware F800 Pro 



bateau said:


> @Coder, do you have sunroof? How did you arrange wiring on the hatch? If cursing was involved I assume you tried to go through factory grommets that with the rest of the wires?
> 
> socialD’s approach looks easier tho not as integrated.
> 
> ...


I do have a sunroof. Yea the grommet was a bit of a bitch, but surprisingly it wasn't really due to fitting the wire through, it was a bitch to "unclip" from the body. I've done a bunch of cars but some reason this particular one was being a ****, and it was just one side of it too. It wasn't hard just a long process since I had to pop off the plastics in the hatch area and such. 

I started at the rear and ran it towards the front, followed path of factory wiring. 
The rear camera wire runs solely along the headliner (pushed as close to middle as possible) 
Then the power wire comes up from fuse box via a-pillar, tucked near windshield and its also where it meets the rear camera wire, hidden behind mirror covers. 

Once I had the general idea of length of the rear camera wire and I had it where I want it, I pulled some of the slack back and left the extra in the back since it was the easiest spot to tuck the extra away. After all was tested, button everything up.


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## bateau (Jun 16, 2013)

@Coderedpl - to clarify, did you run front-to-rear wires along driver or passenger headliner? Fuses for hardwire are obviously on the driver side. 


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## Coderedpl (Jul 9, 2006)

bateau said:


> @Coderedpl - to clarify, did you run front-to-rear wires along driver or passenger headliner? Fuses for hardwire are obviously on the driver side.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Drivers side off-course.


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## KeVWin (Nov 5, 2017)

Iljata said:


> I used the same fuse slot as socialID - I believe it's the only switched slot where add-on will fit. I have 55 installed in my MK6 TDi. If you want Garmin to record while stationary/car off with out the $50unit you should connect unswitched source. Here on the Mk2 Tig - there are total of 3 terminals in the fuse box where you can tap too. Cam consumption is very minimal and if you have heathy battery should be Ok.
> 
> Iljata, I'm just getting around to installing the Garmin 45 this weekend. What I'm not clear on though is, with the parking mode cable, it must always have power to record "events". If I tap into an always on fuse, will it think I'm driving and always be loop recording rather than enter parking mode? It must use the ACC to know when the vehicle is running to enter and exit parking mode?


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

KeVWin said:


> Iljata said:
> 
> 
> > I used the same fuse slot as socialID - I believe it's the only switched slot where add-on will fit. I have 55 installed in my MK6 TDi. If you want Garmin to record while stationary/car off with out the $50unit you should connect unswitched source. Here on the Mk2 Tig - there are total of 3 terminals in the fuse box where you can tap too. Cam consumption is very minimal and if you have heathy battery should be Ok.
> ...


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## jjvw (Jan 17, 2002)

Am using this with no issue at all

REARMASTER Universal OBD Power Cable for Dash Camera,24 hours Surveillance / ACC mode with switch button https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M4XMBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_uDefQyqgKBCPA


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## socialD (Sep 19, 2011)

It’s pretty straightforward. Pics of fuse used here.
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8992265-Dash-cams&p=109619001


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## hopelessnoob (Jul 13, 2018)

*Thinkware F770*

Hello, I got the thinkware f770 with hardwire kit. can someone tell me exactly which wire goes to which fuse box? 

the following is all i know.

red wire = constant 12 v source
yellow wire = ignition 12 v
black wire = grounded to an unpainted metal bolt/stud

*avoid abs system, traction control, airbag

i got my dash cam couple weeks ago but have not been able to install it bc i am a noob. i also looked at the owners manual. if you reference anything from there that would be helpful as well. thank you!


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## inv4zn (Jan 10, 2018)

hopelessnoob said:


> Hello, I got the thinkware f770 with hardwire kit. can someone tell me exactly which wire goes to which fuse box?
> 
> the following is all i know.
> 
> ...


VW annoyingly doesn't provide fuse diagrams anymore, anywhere. I had to ask my dealer service and they printed me out a PDF. I used that and a multimeter to find the fuses, as well as the hot/cold bus. use fusetaps like the photo below, and in that orientation. Keep in mine you'll need standard fuses/fusetaps, not low profile. 

Constant 12V wire to 4th fuse (10A) on top row;
Switched 12V wire to 3rd fuse (7.5A) on 4th row from top. 

Ground connected to the upper one shown in photo. 13mm socket I believe. 

If anyone thinks/knows that my fusetaps are upside down (I thought the orientation was strange, but I double-checked cold/hot), please let me know.


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## TablaRasa (May 12, 2008)

have any of you looked into this one? 

www.owlcam.com


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## jackalopephoto (Jul 5, 2015)

socialD said:


> This is what I tapped for power. No idea what it is supposed to be since VW doesn't like to share the fuse diagram. But it's an empty with switched power.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


There's a much easier mounting location for the rear, the plastic where the hatch meets the roof. No need to worry about the cable when the hatch is opened


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## noreastdub (Aug 6, 2018)

Thanks for the post and the fuse info. Installed my Blackvue D750S 2 channel about a week ago now and have had no issues. I used the same fuses as you in the same orientation but also felt it was odd that they were not the same. After downloading the manuals from erwin.vw.com, and using a multimeter to confirm orientation of the taps I went ahead. The instructions that came with my taps said to leave the lower fuse empty, plug it in and check for voltage at the crimp connector coming out of it, there would be no voltage if it is in backwards. Fishing the cable for the rear camera took me the longest, pulling the trim off the A Pillar so I could zip tie to the wire harness was the second worst part, but all is done and looks nice and tidy! The D750S seems great, really good quality both front and rear, highly recommend it.

Fusetaps










Blackvue Power Magic Pro. I used heavy duty velcro to hold it in place and wrapped the 12v adapter in adhesive backed foam to keep it from rattling around in there.










Front cam










Crummy photo of rear cam, will update it if someone asks for better pics, I took these late at night after finishing the long process of installing so I wasn't really wearing my photographer hat if you know what I mean.














inv4zn said:


> VW annoyingly doesn't provide fuse diagrams anymore, anywhere. I had to ask my dealer service and they printed me out a PDF. I used that and a multimeter to find the fuses, as well as the hot/cold bus. use fusetaps like the photo below, and in that orientation. Keep in mine you'll need standard fuses/fusetaps, not low profile.
> 
> Constant 12V wire to 4th fuse (10A) on top row;
> Switched 12V wire to 3rd fuse (7.5A) on 4th row from top.
> ...


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## inv4zn (Jan 10, 2018)

noreastdub said:


> Thanks for the post and the fuse info. Installed my Blackvue D750S 2 channel about a week ago now and have had no issues. I used the same fuses as you in the same orientation but also felt it was odd that they were not the same. After downloading the manuals from erwin.vw.com, and using a multimeter to confirm orientation of the taps I went ahead. The instructions that came with my taps said to leave the lower fuse empty, plug it in and check for voltage at the crimp connector coming out of it, there would be no voltage if it is in backwards. Fishing the cable for the rear camera took me the longest, pulling the trim off the A Pillar so I could zip tie to the wire harness was the second worst part, but all is done and looks nice and tidy! The D750S seems great, really good quality both front and rear, highly recommend it.
> 
> Fusetaps
> 
> ...


Glad I could help, and thanks for confirming fuse-tap orientation! German engineering, I guess lol.

How did you get the A-pillar trim off? I read somewhere there's a metal spring that's apparently a major PITA to get out, so I just tucked it between the front glass and the pillar, but it's not to my liking. If you rate it easier than fishing it through the rear boot, I may give it a go - if you wouldn't mind giving some pointers. 

Also, you're pics aren't working!


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## noreastdub (Aug 6, 2018)

inv4zn said:


> How did you get the A-pillar trim off? I read somewhere there's a metal spring that's apparently a major PITA to get out, so I just tucked it between the front glass and the pillar, but it's not to my liking. If you rate it easier than fishing it through the rear boot, I may give it a go - if you wouldn't mind giving some pointers.
> Also, you're pics aren't working!


Thanks for the heads up, I replaced them with lower res images, hopefully you can see them now even though they weren't great to begin with and are no help with the a pillar.

The A Pillar was a total pain, don't get me wrong. I just had loads of trouble getting the rear camera cable from the back corner of the sunroof the rest of the way, the shape of the headliner, and getting around the retractable shade really held me up for a good while which is why I rated it harder for me. 

I used this write up at autoinstruct: https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk2-tiguan/mk2-tiguan-dash-cam-install/ It is not exactly the same as my NA tiguan. I think our fuse taps are right but now I am going to double check them after revisiting this website, one of their's is not the same as ours orientation-wise.

Steps 3, 4 and 5 were pretty much right on. In step 5, it does pop out this first little bit without much risk (FYI, by pulling it out this first bit you actually can see the first clip in there pretty good to get an idea of how it is secured). The second half of step 5, when they talk about releasing the clip from the trim, this is where I had trouble. They mention one locking clip, I have two. Regardless, I grabbed the clip with needle nose pliers and slid it out the top of the 'T' but it was still very stressful with the airbag right there and takes patience. The second clip I couldn't get to, had to pull on it and bent the prongs a bit. The lowest (third) clip was a standard body clip and just popped out easily. Before putting it back on I bent the second clip back into shape and it snapped in all nice and tight.


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

noreastdub said:


> Thanks for the heads up, I replaced them with lower res images, hopefully you can see them now even though they weren't great to begin with and are no help with the a pillar.
> 
> The A Pillar was a total pain, don't get me wrong. I just had loads of trouble getting the rear camera cable from the back corner of the sunroof the rest of the way, the shape of the headliner, and getting around the retractable shade really held me up for a good while which is why I rated it harder for me.
> 
> ...


Have you had issue with discharging the battery? I just got 900S and looking to install after the holiday. Have you installed the Bvue batterie pack?

I was thinking on building me auxiliary battery pack with some 12V/7Ah batteries and keep it in the trunk. Charge the pack with a built in floating charger and small transfer switch to send power to the camera between car power source when car running and aux pact when car is off.

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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

Blackvue DR900s two channel with Magic pro and 32G card @ $396 from DASHOTO on Amazon. They even include add fuse - several of them along with voltage tester



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## noreastdub (Aug 6, 2018)

Iljata said:


> Have you had issue with discharging the battery?


No discharging issues. The power magic pro has 2 settings that can cut the power to your dashcam. The low voltage setting you can set to cutoff at either 12 or 12.5v for trucks and cars, I have mine set to 12.5v as it is listed in the manual for "car". The power magic pro also has a time setting, I have mine set to 12 hours and that is always when I get the message that it disconnected, with it set at 12.5v it has never reached that point and shutoff early. If you google a bit there is a dashcam forum out there. I found a few topics while researching the add-a-fuse where they discuss how much power these cameras with wifi and gps actually draw, I can't remember specifically but it was still very low.



Iljata said:


> I just got 900S and looking to install after the holiday. Have you installed the Bvue batterie pack?
> 
> I was thinking on building me auxiliary battery pack with some 12V/7Ah batteries and keep it in the trunk. Charge the pack with a built in floating charger and small transfer switch to send power to the camera between car power source when car running and aux pact when car is off.


Congrats on the new cam! I also purchased from Amazon with everything included and was a fair price as well. I do not have a battery installed, will see how this holds up but so far so good.


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

noreastdub said:


> No discharging issues. The power magic pro has 2 settings that can cut the power to your dashcam. The low voltage setting you can set to cutoff at either 12 or 12.5v for trucks and cars, I have mine set to 12.5v as it is listed in the manual for "car". The power magic pro also has a time setting, I have mine set to 12 hours and that is always when I get the message that it disconnected, with it set at 12.5v it has never reached that point and shutoff early. If you google a bit there is a dashcam forum out there. I found a few topics while researching the add-a-fuse where they discuss how much power these cameras with wifi and gps actually draw, I can't remember specifically but it was still very low.
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new cam! I also purchased from Amazon with everything included and was a fair price as well. I do not have a battery installed, will see how this holds up but so far so good.


Thanks. 

The draw of the 900S is like 400-450mA/h with GPS and WiFi running which will be around 4A over 10h period. TDI's have greater CCA than gas vehicles - my main concern on the battery usage and reason why I'm thinking on building aux supply to prevent being stranded. Winters in NOVA are not the worst but we have seen some -30 times. To many want to do projects with the new to me GSW 

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## inv4zn (Jan 10, 2018)

Chiming in about batter-management:

I've had two BlackVue PowerMagicPros fail on me on my last 2 cars. They seem to have a lifespan of about 2 years, based on my limited experience. 

When they fail = dead battery. 

I've since started using an alternative called the "MultiSafer", which is sold under a few brand names, and it seems to be far more reliable. The PMP works very well as long as it's still working...I guess the same could be said about the MultiSafer, but it's yet to let me down. 

An external battery pack is probably the safest though.


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## noreastdub (Aug 6, 2018)

inv4zn said:


> Chiming in about batter-management:
> 
> I've had two BlackVue PowerMagicPros fail on me on my last 2 cars. They seem to have a lifespan of about 2 years, based on my limited experience.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heads up! This is my first dashcam/PMP, will keep a close eye on it. Planning to pickup one of those small battery jump packs to keep in the car as well.


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## Iljata (Oct 14, 2017)

inv4zn said:


> Chiming in about batter-management:
> 
> I've had two BlackVue PowerMagicPros fail on me on my last 2 cars. They seem to have a lifespan of about 2 years, based on my limited experience.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insides with the Magic pro.

This is what I brained to build for this purpose ( I have plenty of 7Ah 12V batteries - reason why I'm using them. U can always buy 20KmA battery pack in much smaller shape/form).









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## RedHotFuzz (Nov 16, 2015)

I for one am looking forward to the day when manufacturers add a factory power port to the mirror mount or headliner trim for plug-and-play dashcams. Or start including dashcams as factory equipment.


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## brian81 (Apr 19, 2007)

RedHotFuzz said:


> I for one am looking forward to the day when manufacturers add a factory power port to the mirror mount or headliner trim for plug-and-play dashcams. Or start including dashcams as factory equipment.


I have an Escort radar detector hard-wired to the car. the power to the detector is run up the pillar and under the headliner; there's a few inches of the cord hanging down to the detector, which can be pushed up out of sight when the Escort is removed. Instead of a bulky mount I removed the little suction cups from the small metal mounting tab that they come with, and stuck the mount to the glass with 3M molding tape. It's always in the right spot and is semi-permanent. I've done the same thing in 3 cars and there are 2 detectors in our house, so we can move between cars easily.

Now I got one of their M1 cameras and velcro-fastened it to the side of the detector. Since it connects to the detector only, the whole thing is as easy to remove as the detector alone (unplug and push the release button on the detector). The whole thing is much tidier than their "Sticky Cup" and the additional bracket for the camera.

https://www.escortradar.com/products/m1

In the JSW (the car I drive the most), I moved the GoPro to the rear hatch, where it's not visible from the outside through the window film.


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## jsag (Nov 27, 2007)

Hey guys, I just got the garmin dash cam 65w with the parking mode cable, now I need to have it installed on my 2014 GLI.
I don't have experience running wires and hiding them, also would like to know which fuse to tap. 
Considering to have a professional doing the installation instead.
Thanks 

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## underscore (Nov 27, 2018)

TablaRasa said:


> have any of you looked into this one?
> 
> www.owlcam.com



I had installed this and was impressed with the video quality and the free LTE service for the 1st year. It was also very easy to install (took less than 5 minutes) and plugs into the OBD port for power (works even when the ignition is off).

Ultimately I ended up returning it (free 30-day trial) because of the way it does owner detection. It basically uses a bluetooth pairing, but wouldn't pair with my phone properly. So every time I opened the the car door, it would blind me (LED flood lamps). Also since I share the car with my wife, and it only supports pairing with a single phone, it's a no-go even if I could get it to work properly with my phone.


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## moveingfaster (Oct 4, 2006)

underscore said:


> I had installed this and was impressed with the video quality and the free LTE service for the 1st year. It was also very easy to install (took less than 5 minutes) and plugs into the OBD port for power (works even when the ignition is off).
> 
> Ultimately I ended up returning it (free 30-day trial) because of the way it does owner detection. It basically uses a bluetooth pairing, but wouldn't pair with my phone properly. So every time I opened the the car door, it would blind me (LED flood lamps). Also since I share the car with my wife, and it only supports pairing with a single phone, it's a no-go even if I could get it to work properly with my phone.


Thanks for the information, I was also thinking about this dash cam. 


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## jsag (Nov 27, 2007)

Thanks for the info, I had already looked into it, just wanted a small cam that does the job.


underscore said:


> I had installed this and was impressed with the video quality and the free LTE service for the 1st year. It was also very easy to install (took less than 5 minutes) and plugs into the OBD port for power (works even when the ignition is off).
> 
> Ultimately I ended up returning it (free 30-day trial) because of the way it does owner detection. It basically uses a bluetooth pairing, but wouldn't pair with my phone properly. So every time I opened the the car door, it would blind me (LED flood lamps). Also since I share the car with my wife, and it only supports pairing with a single phone, it's a no-go even if I could get it to work properly with my phone.


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## DanSan (Oct 3, 2007)

inv4zn said:


> Constant 12V wire to 4th fuse (10A) on top row;
> Switched 12V wire to 3rd fuse (7.5A) on 4th row from top.


just double checking here - are you saying that you have the yellow wire which is usually designated as the switched outlet plugged into a constant fuse and the red wire which is normally constant, plugged into a switched fuse?


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