# Fender Audio System Aftermarket Upgrade



## mellons15 (Apr 2, 2015)

I own a 2012 VW Beetle Turbo with the premium Fender audio system. I love the system as the highs and mids sound amazing but when it comes to the bass, i feel it is a bit lacking. I would like to install a mono channel amp to power a pair of subwoofers but keep the RNS-315 head unit and OEM amp and speakers. I looked around at a few other threads and someone mentioned that you could splice into the wires that are already at the OEM sub in the trunk because it isn't powered. Not sure if that's true but if not would it be possible to get a clear sub signal from splicing into the harness at the OEM amp? (If anyone has one, could you PM me or provide a link to the harness/amp diagram and which wires control what?) I plan to install 2 12" Kicker CompVR powered by a Pioneer GM9601 Mono amp. I don't want a debate on what system is the best because I have measured my trunk space and done the research on what system I want; I just need advice for the install. Also I like to listen to Hip-Hop and Trap/Electronic music (Lots of bass heavy music). Any help is greatly appreciated!


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## BugzLife (Nov 20, 2012)

If you splice ANY external amplifier into your factory wires, you will burn your car to the ground. Your amplifier needs its own dedicated line of power from your battery with its own fuse. For the system you are wanting, I suggest gutting the ENTIRE factory system and start fresh, including the head unit. If you try to add more power to any part of your factory stereo, its gonna sound like your listening to a record player. The car already has 400 watts of power distributed. The electrical system on these cars is so temperamental that they don't like change, except for the ECU flash ...then they welcome it! My advice would be to leave the system alone, turn the bass down slightly and turn the volume up and you will see a difference. :beer: :thumbup:


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## Chris659 (Nov 16, 2012)

I can help you! I had the Fender sound system and it lasted all of a few months before it was gutted! I went for something different than you but to each their own. I have been in the car audio industry for 16 years now but still learn new things every day.

The signal wires for the subwoofer are:
(listed as +/-)
Grey with brown stripe/ grey with red stripe (1)
Brown with red stripe/ white with red stripe (2)

38 pin plug under driver front seat pins 4-16; 17-5

You can use the 12v outlet plug by the shifter for your remote turn on or go to the fuse panel and find an ignition wire. 

For the Pioneer amp you will need to run a 4 gauge wire from the battery with a fuse able link no more than 18 inches from the battery. You will need to use the same gauge wire for ground going straight to the chassis (no more than 3ft long). 

Since this is only for bass you can safely run your signal wires along with your power wire down the driver side as that is the side the battery is on. 

That's going to be a ton of bass so you may want to consider using a remote level control. Some amps have them but make sure it is not a bass boost control as not all amp's remotes control the overall output just a certain frequency. 

Hope this helps and if you have any other questions feel free to PM me!


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## mellons15 (Apr 2, 2015)

Chris659 said:


> I can help you! I had the Fender sound system and it lasted all of a few months before it was gutted! I went for something different than you but to each their own. I have been in the car audio industry for 16 years now but still learn new things every day.
> 
> The signal wires for the subwoofer are:
> (listed as +/-)
> ...


Thanks for the help but I still have some more questions.

1. Okay so could I just remove the subwoofer wires from the harness under the seat and connect them to the aftermarket amp because I plan to remove the factory subwoofer?

2. If I did this would the rest of the factory speakers still work through the factory amp?

3. You listed the pin plug, what would I need to do with the pins?

4. Do you know of any fuse slots that are unused that I could use for the remote wire?

5. Why are there two sets of +/- signal wires instead of just one?

6. Will this damage the factory (RNS315) stereo? I have heard several things about it pulling too much power and frying the stereo, but I thought all the stereo did was send the signal to the amp and the amp is where the power is drawn.

7. Do I need a Line Out Converter?

8. Did you do your install on a Beetle also?
Also the pioneer amp does have a remote control bass adjuster. Thanks!


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## BugzLife (Nov 20, 2012)

Hey, Chris seems to be pretty knowledgeable on the Beetles electrical system. Im goin on installs Ive seen over the years. My knowledge consist of "old school" mixed with very little new technology. I could also give you MY resume but I promise you wouldn't believe me. I would still be cautious of running additional power through factory wiring.....if Im understanding your problem correctly. Anyways, looks like Chris will be able to give you more detailed info that what I have. Good luck friend. :beer:


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## Chris659 (Nov 16, 2012)

1. Okay so could I just remove the subwoofer wires from the harness under the seat and connect them to the aftermarket amp because I plan to remove the factory subwoofer?

You could grab the signal wires at the amp or at the subwoofer. It all depends on where you want to install your equipment and how you want to do it. This is the signal that will either go to your line output converter or straight into your amp (if it has a high level signal input)

2. If I did this would the rest of the factory speakers still work through the factory amp?

Yes

3. You listed the pin plug, what would I need to do with the pins?

Connect them eithe to high level inputs on amp or into line output converter

4. Do you know of any fuse slots that are unused that I could use for the remote wire?

No. I know you can use the 12v outlet by shifter though or you can by a line output converter that generates a turn on lead

5. Why are there two sets of +/- signal wires instead of just one?

This is most likely because it is a dual voice coil woofer

6. Will this damage the factory (RNS315) stereo? I have heard several things about it pulling too much power and frying the stereo, but I thought all the stereo did was send the signal to the amp and the amp is where the power is drawn.

I am sure there is a way for you foul up the install and damage something but if all connections are properly insulated and fused then you should never run into a problem

7. Do I need a Line Out Converter? 

Optional but I always recommend it rather than using high level inputs on amp. Some amps I feel comfortable with using them but most amps I use a LOC

8. Did you do your install on a Beetle also?

Yes. I have a ton of pics in my build thread of everything I've done. It's on newbeetle.org in the 12+ Beetle photo section. Same screen name

Also the pioneer amp does have a remote control bass adjuster. 

I know that model has a remote control as I sold those amps for a short time I just can't remember if it is a level control or a bass boost control. They both look like wired controls but they do different things. The level control adjusts ALL the bass notes volume up or down whereas the boost control only adjusts a certain frequency (like 40hz)

Thanks!

Your welcome!


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## mellons15 (Apr 2, 2015)

Thanks once again for your help Chris, but you will have to forgive my newbie ignorance when it comes to car audio. I have just a few more questions.

1. Okay I plan to screw the amp on top of the subwoofer box so the whole system is in one piece. You said I might be able to take the signal wires at the subwoofer. I am confused if wiring these into the amp (through a LOC) would have a negative effect since they wires at the sub are already amplified by the OEM amp.

2. I am still confused about what to actually connect/disconnect as there are multiple pins and two sets of signal wires. Are the Pins you're talking about and the signal wires the same thing? Could you just tell me what I need to connect to the amp and what I need to leave alone?

3. Is there a particular Line Out Converter you would recommend for just this mono channel use? (Not looking for top of the line $$$, just one that works well that doesn't break the bank)

Thanks again!


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## Chris659 (Nov 16, 2012)

If you're not comfortable doing this yourself it may be worth it to take your car to a professional audio shop. The little bit of labor cost savings wil not be worth damaging something. 

1. A high level signal (which is what an LOC use) is an amplified signal whereas a low level signal (RCA) is an unamplified signal so, no, you will not harm anything. You are using the product as intended, but you just can't use a cheap one (low wattage/non adjustable) due to it being from an actual amp and not just from the head unit power. 

2. To keep matters simple for you, disregard the amp under the seat. Just use the wire colors I gave you as they should be the same at the subwoofer. Use one positive and negative going into the left side (white speaker wires on most LOCs) and the other set going into the right side (grey speaker wires on most LOCs) directly from the factory subwoofer enclosure. 

3. PAC LP-7 I think it is called. Usually sell for $35. It will also generate a remote turn on lead. You will need to give it power and ground which can come from your Pioneer amp. 


Remember to use 4 gauge power and ground for your Pioneer amp and go through the firewall using an insulated grommet as I mentioned in my initial post. Then silicone the opening up. If you are not comfortable with any of this it really will be best to take it to your local shop however if you are handy and have patience it is not difficult work.


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## mellons15 (Apr 2, 2015)

Thanks so much for your help Chris! I believe I have everything I need to perform the install myself and I will post pictures of the install once I get into it! :wave:
One last thing, the remote for the pioneer amp is like you said a bass boost remote which worries me. Would it be a good idea to get the pro version of the PAC LP7 that comes with the level control and use that instead?


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## Chris659 (Nov 16, 2012)

Yes certainly that would work much better for you!


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## guitarkirb (Sep 6, 2016)

Hey Chris 659,

I'm new here with a 2014 GLI with the fender audio system. Not new to car audio though. From what I can tell, my RCD510 is provisioned to output 4 balanced line level-ish audio signals from the head unit and then the power amp has a built in crossover that generates the powered sub output from the amp. Is that correct or is there a sub out on the head unit? I assume the sub signal is derived in the amp and the head unit has no sub out. 

Also, are the tweets driven from the amp or is there a crossover in the doors or on the back of the drivers?

I'm looking for all the wiring diagrams I can find to be able to do a few clean upgrades, mainly in the sub. The factory sub in the GLI is not bad for OEM, but it has the typical boom and resonance as opposed to clean deep bass.

Got any links to wiring diagrams/pinouts?

Thanks,

Brian in NC


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