# 1.8t GenIII Spark Plug replacement



## Primodub (Mar 19, 2017)

Hello

My '14 Passat has 66k on the clock. I have tried replacing the plugs but when I try to remove the coil, th rubber insulator separates from the coil head.

Any advice appreciated.


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

Primodub said:


> Hello
> 
> My '14 Passat has 66k on the clock. I have tried replacing the plugs but when I try to remove the coil, th rubber insulator separates from the coil head.
> 
> Any advice appreciated.


Have you tried removing with the engine warm? My come off easier than a cold engine.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

If you're able to put the coil head back into the insulator, then pull the it off
separately, then put it on the coil head when you plug them back in. 

First time I have seen a 40,000 mile change interval... Platinum and Iridiums
are supposed to last 60,000+ miles... 

Gap: .028 (should be this out of the box) 
Plug torque: 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm).

The Iridium IX are out now (NGK BKR7EIX). There is a kit for $130.00 for
the plugs and coil packs.

I think the stock ones are platinum? Wonder if mine need changed...

The Audi RS7 plugs are one heat range cooler, and good for tunes, 024-.025 Gap.

After installation, it may start off a little harsh as the impurities are burned off the plugs 
and the ECU adapts to the new ones. It should smooth out rather quickly the next time 
you drive the car.


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## SnakeEarl (Dec 11, 2013)

Torque spec for spark pugs is 30Nm on the Gen3 engines. .7-.8mm gap. with ~60,000 mile intervals for maintenance replacement.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

SnakeEarl said:


> Torque spec for spark pugs is 30Nm on the Gen3 engines. .7-.8mm gap. with ~60,000 mile intervals for maintenance replacement.


Gap on a stock vehicle should be at .031.


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## SnakeEarl (Dec 11, 2013)

giantsnation said:


> Gap on a stock vehicle should be at .031.



.8mm =0.03149" gap... .031" is within specification from VW.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

SnakeEarl said:


> .8mm =0.03149" gap... .031" is within specification from VW.


Correct. Just wanted to clarify what you meant by .8mm because most gap tools are in inches. Like this one:


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

Also, any know what the difference is between NGK BKR7Eix and NGK ILFR7H? 

The only thing I saw was that the thread reach was a lot longer on ILFR7H (26.5mm vw 19mm).


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## SnakeEarl (Dec 11, 2013)

giantsnation said:


> Also, any know what the difference is between NGK BKR7Eix and NGK ILFR7H?
> 
> The only thing I saw was that the thread reach was a lot longer on ILFR7H (26.5mm vw 19mm).


Gen3 engines use the longer plugs. Gen 1 uses the shorter plugs.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

SnakeEarl said:


> Gen3 engines use the longer plugs. Gen 1 uses the shorter plugs.


Ok good thing I got the longer ones :laugh: I'll be installing these soon (I'm almost at 59K).


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## SnakeEarl (Dec 11, 2013)

giantsnation said:


> Ok good thing I got the longer ones :laugh: I'll be installing these soon (I'm almost at 59K).


I just did mine, and the plugs didn't seem very worn at around 57K.. I will definitely wait until I go a full 60K to replace them again..


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## Fitz Ingarage (Aug 25, 2008)

Is the difficulty in removing Gen3 coil packs because the rubber boot is tight against the tube (exterior of the boot) or because the rubber boot is tight against the spark plug (interior of the boot) or maybe both? I'm just wondering if dielectric grease would help ease removal in the future and where it best needs to be applied.


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## panfilo0329 (Aug 21, 2015)

Use a shoe lace or string. Loop the string through the bottom of coil assembly and pull upwards. Both pieces will come out as one piece. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

Fwiw, I emailed APR concerning plugs. They recommend using the oem/stock plug and gap if you're turned (stage 1 & 2).


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Fitz Ingarage said:


> Is the difficulty in removing Gen3 coil packs because the rubber boot is tight against the tube (exterior of the boot) or because the rubber boot is tight against the spark plug (interior of the boot) or maybe both? I'm just wondering if dielectric grease would help ease removal in the future and where it best needs to be applied.


A video I saw shows them spraying silicone down the rubber boot and prodding
with a screw-driver.


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## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

compressed air helps alot with removing the rubber tubes.


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## R32PWR (Sep 18, 2006)

Spraying silicone at the base of the coil pack and moving the coil left and right to work the silicone down around the boot is the best way to get them loose. If you try prying with a screwdriver or pick you may damage the boot causing the coil to arc to the head and creates misfire.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

Did this last night without any issues. The coils were in there tight but a warm engine and some tough talking got them out. I went with NGK Iridiums and the car seems to drive smoother - other than that, all is good at 60K.


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## Mickey736 (Jan 30, 2017)

*Removing coilpack boot.*

get some semi grippy pliers and just tug at them while the engine is warm, you will have to play with them a bit meaning that you will have to shake them. dont pull to hard otherwise you will rip the boot. After you get them out what you want to do is cover them with dielectric grease but not alot. This will let you get them out easier next change.


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## Mr. Spade (Aug 17, 2016)

Oh crap the interval is 40,000?

I thought it was 60,000.

Still runs fine it seems tho. I'll switch to RS7 plugs next; on JB1


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## VR6OOM (Nov 8, 2002)

It is 60k according to the manual, unless they released a TSB changing that?


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

Mr. Spade said:


> Oh crap the interval is 40,000?
> 
> I thought it was 60,000.
> 
> Still runs fine it seems tho. I'll switch to RS7 plugs next; on JB1


60k is by the book. I tend to swap them at 40K.


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## Mr. Spade (Aug 17, 2016)

DasCC said:


> 60k is by the book. I tend to swap them at 40K.


I bought the Beru ones from ECS Tuning (Audi RS7 replacements) and got email spammed by them as usual.

Will update once installed.


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## T Dog (May 22, 2014)

I thought APR said to reduce the gap and the change interval. I'm getting 87 tune tomorrow, so I'll double check.

Likely the lightest tune at 87 won't need an adjustment.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

DasCC said:


> 60k is by the book. I tend to swap them at 40K.


83000+ miles, original plugs, no performance issues since bought.

I have a set of plugs, boots are stuck to the plug...


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

105,200+ miles now, same plugs and coil packs.

I can't get the boots out at all. The head of the coil pack came off
the boot, and it's pretty well stuck to the plug head. Tried all the suggestions,
and they will not come out. So, I will order new coil packs, or boots,
because I am going to have to carve them out.


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## R32PWR (Sep 18, 2006)

PowerslavePA said:


> 105,200+ miles now, same plugs and coil packs.
> 
> I can't get the boots out at all. The head of the coil pack came off
> the boot, and it's pretty well stuck to the plug head. Tried all the suggestions,
> ...


There is a small hole in the top of the coil boot that you can blow some compressed air into to to pop the boosts out. They are always in super tight.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Yeah, I saw that hole when the coil head came off the boot... I read about
the compressed air thing too, but I don't have anything to give that a shot..

Will try and find something to do it with...


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## suburbandoom (Feb 18, 2015)

Heat. Beer. Pull. They'll stretch, but who cares...you're replacing them.


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## danman132x (May 7, 2010)

This thread got me thinking, do you have to change the ignition coils along with the spark plugs? Or is that more of a thing people are doing for piece of mind.

I'm coming up to my first change at 60k and was wondering what the general consensus is.


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## DasCC (Feb 24, 2009)

danman132x said:


> This thread got me thinking, do you have to change the ignition coils along with the spark plugs? Or is that more of a thing people are doing for piece of mind.
> 
> I'm coming up to my first change at 60k and was wondering what the general consensus is.



that's not required. I used to keep a spare one handy when my cars were high mileage tho.


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

danman132x said:


> This thread got me thinking, do you have to change the ignition coils along with the spark plugs? Or is that more of a thing people are doing for piece of mind.
> 
> I'm coming up to my first change at 60k and was wondering what the general consensus is.


No need or benefit to doing this. The must do is a warm engine. Don't try to pull the coils out cold - let the motor idle run for ~15 min.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

I did the plugs and coils Yesterday. I got a set of the RS3 coil packs:

I warmed the engine up for like 15 minutes.
Pulled the coil pack heads off, and sprayed silicone down the small hole.
Waited.

They pulled off.

They were not heated to the plugs at all, they are just on tight down there, and it's
just a bad friction area. I even put a boot on a plug without the core in it, and I still 
had to pull hard to get it off the plug. 

When I was pulling the boots off, two of them flung, and the cores flew out, and 
I had to go looking for them... I kept them, they all still work.

Thing is, the OEM plugs were were gaped at .036, and one was .038. I gaped mine
at .032, and the car runs fine. Not sure if I should take them out and regap them or 
not... Real smooth idle too.. Will test under the +4 boost on the road today. Then
try the +6 setting.

My ordeal is posted here:
http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/116666-Audi-RS3-Coil-Packs-amp-Spark-Plug-Change


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Ran fine, 470 miles yesterday into today, with the +4 boost on the neuspeed module.

Will try +6 today into tomorrow, for 450 some miles...


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## giantsnation (Dec 15, 2014)

PowerslavePA said:


> Ran fine, 470 miles yesterday into today, with the +4 boost on the neuspeed module.
> 
> Will try +6 today into tomorrow, for 450 some miles...


With the neuspeed (or any tune), lowering the gap to the settings you did is a good idea. How are those coils? I haven't seen anyone with a stock motor prove that they offer much of anything.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

giantsnation said:


> With the neuspeed (or any tune), lowering the gap to the settings you did is a good idea. How are those coils? I haven't seen anyone with a stock motor prove that they offer much of anything.


The coils are fine, I mean, they were actually cheaper than four OEM ones.

They're supposed to have a more powerful spark than the OEM ones, so
I just picked them up.

I should have ran them on the worn plugs to see what the difference
would have been. If it would have smoothed out the idle without changing
the plugs, then you could say they were better. Since I changed both
the packs and plugs, it runs good, but just changing the plugs with 110611
miles on them, would have done that. 

No one ever, EVER gives specific specifications, this is all you get:


> *RS3 Ignition Coil Kits for VW 1.8 / 2.0T Gen3 Engines*
> 
> If you have a VW and are producing more power, or want to, an important factor to consider is your
> spark. With B9 S4 or 8v RS3 Ignition Coils, you can be sure these will fire under high HP and high boost.
> ...


People like me want to see the WHY, as in OEM spark volts -vs- RS3 spark volts... No one ever
does it. They make claims with no data what so ever. I think if they give REAL specs, people 
won't buy them, because they won't be much better than stock... Anytime anyone doesn't include 
data like that, is hiding the truth. I have seen places that sell items as such, WANT to sell, so they 
include the actual specifications and data. So here, since cheaper than OEM, well that's a given... 

At least provide a link to the actual energy output -vs- the stock ones... But no... We'll just
hype it...


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Ran +6, and man, I can get into trouble with that....


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## Mr. Spade (Aug 17, 2016)

So I bought BERU 1 step colder plugs.

They will continue to sit around unless anyone wants to buy them from me.

I tried taking off the coils and no luck. Engine was warm, not hot. I had driven it about 30 miles 2.5 hours prior.

I don't plan on changing unless I absolutely need to. I'm sure I'll destroy the coils if I am ever able to get them out so I'd need new ones.


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

You won't destroy the coils; the coil pack itself will come off the boot if they are OEM.
At worst, you'd destroy the boots or lose a core.

Once you get the coil pack off the boot, then you can spray some silicone down
into the boot. 2.5 hours is plenty hot...

Get a pair of vice-grips, pull the boot up out, clamp the vice grips on the neck of
the boot, under the collar where the coil pack goes on, and pull hard... As I said, 
the core may fly out, two of mine did. 

http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/116666-Audi-RS3-Coil-Packs-amp-Spark-Plug-Change


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## Dieseldog12 (Jul 29, 2012)

PowerslavePA said:


> 83000+ miles, original plugs, no performance issues since bought.
> 
> I have a set of plugs, boots are stuck to the plug...


maybe if you swapped them out at 40K they wouldn't be as stuck


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## PowerslavePA (Dec 9, 2014)

Dieseldog12 said:


> maybe if you swapped them out at 40K *they wouldn't be* as stuck


"wouldn't have been" as stuck, as this is history now....


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## MK7_JSW (Jun 10, 2015)

DasCC said:


> 60k is by the book. I tend to swap them at 40K.


Maybe i should read the manual more, im at 72k and havent done them yet....i thought iridium plugs generally last 100k like on most other makes.


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## 65Strad (Jul 4, 2011)

I'm at 85,000 on my 2014 Passat SE with roof. 1.8 EA888 TSI. Jan 2014 production. Havent changed plugs or coils yet. Still great mileage . I've been using BG product's 44K for fuel, and EPR and MOA. Runs great. Biggest concern for me is carbon build up because of direct injection without multiport like Eurospec and Audi.

Am I potentially causing issues by running same plugs and coils? Someone mentioned iridium plugs lasting 100,000 miles. Not sure what my stock plugs are, but my 2014 was one of the first Gen 3 EA 888 TSI's after the 2.5's. 

Thanks for any input. Also, anyone else using BG products too?


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## someotherguyfromMaryland (Jun 30, 2016)

FYI, on a 2017 Passat with the 1.8T EA888 Gen III, the owner's maintenance book clearly states to replace the plugs at 40k intervals. I had no trouble getting the coil packs off and I'll use a little dielectric grease inside the boots to ensure I have no trouble at 80K. The plugs looked great, btw, but I like to follow the manufacturer's instructions or better.


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## bach61 (Mar 10, 2018)

Happy to see a lot of DIY'ers here so I'll get right to it;
I'm new to VW these days and have 2,017 miles on the car as of today parking at work, a '17 Golf SportWagen, 4MOTION DSG. 

I'm a bit confused by many comments I've seen about VW wanting to keep cost of ownership in line with the 10k OCI yet the spark plugs / coil packs have a life span of 40,000 miles per mfg recommended change ? I don't get it.
I don't know a lot about turbos but had an '08 CX-7 and now now a '16 CX-9 Mazda as turbo/s. Never knew of a plug change for vehicles in the past 35 years that was sub 60k or even 100k. Am I missing something ?

I see the DSG will require a service and seen costs mentioned of $350 or so, does anyone know the dealer menu price for the plugs/coil packs service just for reference sake ?

I'll follow the guidelines but OCI of 6 to 9 months or so in my case and or 5,000 to 6,500 probably. My previous investments were Rotella T-6 and NGK but I have no worry going with Casterol as directed. Are NGK plugs still somewhat favored by mechanics these days ?

* Thanks in advance if anyone has a strong suggestion or good history on any of this. 

~bach


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## uttadms31 (Oct 13, 2015)

For better access to the 4th spark plug/coil (all the way on the right), Is it necessary/safe to unplug the connection to the high pressure fuel pump?


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## someotherguyfromMaryland (Jun 30, 2016)

uttadms31 said:


> For better access to the 4th spark plug/coil (all the way on the right), Is it necessary/safe to unplug the connection to the high pressure fuel pump?


I was able to change all 4 plugs with only removing the coil packs. HTH.


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## MK7_JSW (Jun 10, 2015)

PowerslavePA said:


> 83000+ miles, original plugs, no performance issues since bought.
> 
> I have a set of plugs, boots are stuck to the plug...


I have 80k on mine, i still haven't changed mine out, still runs silky smooth also. I ordered some OEM spark plugs yesterday, i should be installing them this weekend.


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## MK7_JSW (Jun 10, 2015)

I just did my spark plug replacement this morning well overdue at 80, 000 miles but they still look good A little ashy because I ran some bg44k fuel cleaner a tank before. Not sure if it was the BG cleaner or not but the Piston tops are actually still clean aluminum colored I see no carbon in there. Does this thing just run on air?? 
a hot tip for somebody who's planning to do this job if you want the spark plug boots to stay on the coil pack pull up on the coil pack firmly slowly straight up steadily and you'll see it inching out slowly then it will let go. I just change all four spark plugs and none of the boot stayed on the spark plug like a lot of people said they would now if you yank up on them probably will but if you pull on them slowly with steady pressure it'll inch its way out. The total job from start to finish took no more than 30 minutes it was very easy and straightforward.


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## MK7_JSW (Jun 10, 2015)




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## vee_dubb_gti (Nov 17, 2004)

Mind the Gap


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## mikeme (Jan 2, 2014)

*plug change on 17 GSW 4motion*

Seems like the maintenance interval and torque specs change depending on the application.

sprung for the real data.

40,000 mile replacement interval. 

I am at 38,500 but doing all the other stuff to be ready for ski season.

30 NM Plug torque
10 NM for the coil mounting bolt.

I used 8NM for the ground wire nut that mounts on the coil bolt.

no issues. with this, I idled the engine to get some movement on the temp gauge. the coils came right off with a wiggle and a tug.

Did remove one connection closer to the firewall, and loosened a harness clamp near the oil fill tube to allow a little more room.

Blew off the area with compressed air, and a shot down the hole after the coil is out

wiped and put some silicone on the coil end as the tech data advises. 

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Cle...72185671&sprefix=3m+silicone,tools,136&sr=8-3
used the 3m paste since I have a bottle.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AXTKZNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

found the spark plug tool quite handy. OEMTOOLS 22885 5/8 Inch 3/8 Inch Drive Magnetic Spark Plug Socket Extension


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## Stradguy93 (Mar 16, 2019)

The issue with removing the spark plug boot is due to the anaerobic sealant that VW uses to seal the cam cover squeezes into the spark plug hole ever so slightly when the cam cover is torqued down at the factory. Since the anaerobic sealant never cures it just becomes an extremely sticky goo that sticks the boot to the head. Just SLOWLY pull on the boot with a warm engine and they should come out fine. I cleaned mine off and put anti seize on the boot ribs to prevent issues in the future.


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## Davidob16 (Nov 6, 2016)

Can anyone confirm if the mk7 1.8t (EA888) spark plug torque spec is 25 NM or 30?


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## blaubner (Mar 28, 2019)

Bumping this thread to the top with a new question. 

Does coil pack order matter? All four of the coil packs on my 1.4L engine have OE numbers:

04C905110D, 04C905110L, 04C905110H, 04C905110J 

When I order four new coil packs does order matter when I install them?


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