# First Oil change



## vayron333 (Sep 16, 2015)

When did you guys have your first oil change. Dealers says 5000 miles but I am thinking would be best to have it earlier. Do you know if they drain the car on the first oil change to get rid of any metal in the oil?


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

Did it at 1450 miles and used 10W 60 oil.


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## A3_yuppie (Jun 5, 2006)

crackkills said:


> Did it at 1450 miles and used 10W 60 oil.


Why use such heavy oil?


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## turbo slc 2.9l (Dec 4, 2003)

I took my S3 in for first oil change at 4700:thumbup:


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## -LoneStar- (Aug 5, 2015)

A3_yuppie said:


> Why use such heavy oil?


Because racecar!

But seriously unless you are tracking the car I think that's a bit overkill for a street car. Will it hurt anything, no, but it's not really needed like I said for a street car. 


If you want to learn more about oils and such check out Bobistheoilguy. Lots of good information and a forum that has a section dedicated to European oil standards and such. 

I plan to start doing oil analysis to see how the oil is holding up for each interval. I plan to use mobile 1 0w-40 for my next change. It's been around for awhile and has a proven track record. Lots of good UOA (used oil analysis) out there about it. Another good option is castrol 0w-40. Newer them M1 but seems like a winner as well. Both of these options are located at your local Walmart for cheap too! 

I think 5k oil change intervals is safe but that's why I'm going to start doing UOA. This will tell you how much life is left in the oil based on your climate and driving style.


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

Because I have cases of it from running them in my RS4, RS5 and TT RS. It would be recommended by Audi for all the turbo cars but it is hard to find and also it being turbo charged the oil gets a beating. 

Never had any problems but I am sure lots of people will contest. I am not trying to get record HP or Gas Mileage.


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## A3_yuppie (Jun 5, 2006)

-LoneStar- said:


> Because racecar!
> 
> But seriously unless you are tracking the car I think that's a bit overkill for a street car. Will it hurt anything, no, but it's not really needed like I said for a street car.
> 
> ...


I usually use Mobil 1 when I do my own oil changes, but a few days ago I did it using 5 qt. Castrol 0W-40 (the German one) + 1 qt. Castrol 5W-40 (the US SPT one), and the car feels smoother but slightly less powerful compared to Mobil 1?


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## Onequick4door (Sep 13, 2014)

I will be doing the first at 1k, which should be in a couple weeks then to VIR for its maiden voyage in early nov.


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## -LoneStar- (Aug 5, 2015)

crackkills said:


> Because I have cases of it from running them in my RS4, RS5 and TT RS. It would be recommended by Audi for all the turbo cars but it is hard to find and also it being turbo charged the oil gets a beating.
> 
> Never had any problems but I am sure lots of people will contest. I am not trying to get record HP or Gas Mileage.


Your right that these turbo charged cars put a beating on oil. I've looked at different UOA from boosted cars vs NA cars and the differences are wild. If your not going for record HP and mileage then using the oil your using is great and I'm sure its protecting parts and holding up better then other lighter weight oils. :thumbup:



A3_yuppie said:


> I usually use Mobil 1 when I do my own oil changes, but a few days ago I did it using 5 qt. Castrol 0W-40 (the German one) + 1 qt. Castrol 5W-40 (the US SPT one), and the car feels smoother but slightly less powerful compared to Mobil 1?


I'm going to be honest and say I don't understand people mixing different weight oils. I'm sure there is some logic to it but its way more then I understand and have researched. With that being said I really don't think you would feel a difference in power between the M1 and the mix of Castrol you did. In fact I think if you had a car filled with xxW20 and one filled with xxW60 you would be hard pressed to see a measurable difference in the 1/4 mile. I could be wrong with that assumption as I have never seen a test on it but from what I've read in the real world its not a whole hell of difference.


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## A3_yuppie (Jun 5, 2006)

-LoneStar- said:


> Your right that these turbo charged cars put a beating on oil. I've looked at different UOA from boosted cars vs NA cars and the differences are wild. If your not going for record HP and mileage then using the oil your using is great and I'm sure its protecting parts and holding up better then other lighter weight oils. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be honest and say I don't understand people mixing different weight oils. I'm sure there is some logic to it but its way more then I understand and have researched. With that being said I really don't think you would feel a difference in power between the M1 and the mix of Castrol you did. In fact I think if you had a car filled with xxW20 and one filled with xxW60 you would be hard pressed to see a measurable difference in the 1/4 mile. I could be wrong with that assumption as I have never seen a test on it but from what I've read in the real world its not a whole hell of difference.


It was not my intent to mix but I could not find the 0W-40 in 1 qt. size.

Previously on my 2001 Accord V6 I could feel a difference between 5W-20 (factory recommended weight) and 5W-30 (not factory recommended, but what I had in abundance leftover from another vehicle); and that car was underpowered to begin with.


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## Travis Grundke (May 26, 1999)

You need to be very careful about using the specified oil in Audi/Volkswagens. IIRC, the 2.0T requires a 502.00 spec rated oil. 

If you have a warranty claim down the road and they prove you did not use the factory spec oil they will be very quick to deny the claim.


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

Travis Grundke said:


> You need to be very careful about using the specified oil in Audi/Volkswagens. IIRC, the 2.0T requires a 502.00 spec rated oil.
> 
> If you have a warranty claim down the road and they prove you did not use the factory spec oil they will be very quick to deny the claim.


Can you please tell me how they can decipher what weight oil you used in your car? I am curious as to what testing process VW will use to sample and analyze the type of oil in your oil pan/engine to tell me that I used the wrong weight? 

Weight sniffing dogs? I am just curious.


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## araemo (Dec 9, 2012)

crackkills said:


> Can you please tell me how they can decipher what weight oil you used in your car? I am curious as to what testing process VW will use to sample and analyze the type of oil in your oil pan/engine to tell me that I used the wrong weight?
> 
> Weight sniffing dogs? I am just curious.


It's not as much about the weight (though getting the weight too wrong would leave telltale signs on the friction surfaces within the engine if you had a catastrophic failure and they did a postmortem on it). Too high a weight and you'll probably get too little flow through some oil squirters, leaving specific areas starved of lubrication. Too low and it won't lubricate well enough even if it gets enough to the right area. Both would be pretty obvious if they were extreme enough/used long enough to cause a failure. Otherwise you're probably just lowering the overall life of your internal engine components, and that's your own decision. 

The VW 502/504/etc standards have more to do with making sure they have certain additives and don't have other additives. Some engine oil additives will specifically break down the coatings on certain parts. So, these standards were developed to ensure that the oil has enough of additives the manufacturer wants it to have for longevity of their specific parts, and that it DOES NOT have other additives that would contribute to early wear of coatings on things like crank bearings and other friction surfaces within the engine. Again, they wouldn't know immediately after you use it, but if you have a catastrophic failure under warranty and they take apart your engine to find out why it failed, they'll be able to tell by the mismatched wear between the coated components and uncoated components.

Would they definitely bother with the postmortem? No, more than likely they'll ask you what oil you used, and if you don't tell them one that meets the standard, they'll just deny your warranty claim. There may be ways to simply test for the presence or absence of certain additives as well, via test strips/simple test kits as well, which may be used in high-value warranty claims (this is just conjecture on my part though).


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

If you check the Castrol 10W60 oil specs you will see that it is the BEST oil Castrol makes as to sheering and detergents. If you are also telling me that a mass produced EA888 engine has tighter tolerances than the R8 V10 Plus engine that this oil is recommended thus leading to oil not going through some journals and orifices I will chuckle internally to the point of stomach cramps. 

Enjoy your weight in good health I am by no means telling people what weight oil to use. I just stated what I used. Can't wait to blow up my engine and turbo.


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## -LoneStar- (Aug 5, 2015)

crackkills said:


> If you check the Castrol 10W60 oil specs you will see that it is the BEST oil Castrol makes as to sheering and detergents. If you are also telling me that a mass produced EA888 engine has tighter tolerances than the R8 V10 Plus engine that this oil is recommended thus leading to oil not going through some journals and orifices I will chuckle internally to the point of stomach cramps.
> 
> Enjoy your weight in good health I am by no means telling people what weight oil to use. I just stated what I used. Can't wait to blow up my engine and turbo.


No one is denying the fact that the oil you suggested is awesome. IF its good enough for the R8 then yeah its safe to say its good enough for our mass produced EA888. With that being said if lawyers get involved its safe to say all common sense goes out the window. Lawyers like specific rules and regulations and shy away from common sense and logic at times . So regardless if the oil used was the culprit for engine/turbo failure, they would try to weasel their way out by simply pointing out an oil standard (502.00, 503.00, 504.00 etc) and how you chose not to follow it.

With that being said run whatever oil makes you feel warm and fuzzy. If you want to stick to standards so there's no question to warranty then fine. If you want to run something out of the box because you know its superior and you don't care about potential warranty claims then great :thumbup:


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## scope213 (Feb 19, 2015)

For me, after dealer does my 5K oil change I'll be using Pentosin 5W40 for the 15K. If it matters it has VW 502.00 / 505.00 / 505.01 approval.


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## vayron333 (Sep 16, 2015)

I leave in Cyprus (europe) and 10w60 was recommended to my brother in law by the Fiat dealer to use on a 5 cylinder 20 valve turbocharged Fiat Coupe a few years ago. The car in base form was making 220hp. We also get very high temperatures in summer up to 112 F. Saying that the Castrol Edge 10w60 satisfies 501/505 VW specs but in our manual it says that the oil should satisfy 502 and 504 VW spec. This is supported by Castrol Edge 5W40.


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

I have noticed since changing my oil at 1400 miles to the 10W60, a significant reduction in oil temps based on the display on the cluster. With the factory fill in normal highway driving at around 80mph with ac on and ambient temps of 80 degrees I was seeing high 220s to low 230s. Now I get to middle 210s and today with ambient temps around mid 70s I was only around 205.

Also with this car it seems that it likes to have higher speeds to help cool the oil. When I pull into my neighborhood I have a 2.2 mile drive to my house. In the RS5 at 30 mph regardless how hot the oil was, same weight as discussed here, the oil temps would drop to 217 degrees by the time I got to the house. In the S3 it doesn't really go down. Posted speed limit is 30 and I would be in drive. However, if I drive at 45 mph like an a hole I noticed that the oil temp would decline. 

I assure you that the heat generated by the turbo at even stock boost levels kills the weight of the oil really quickly. I think the 5W40 castro would in about a 100 miles drop to a 30 weight and I think the 10W60 would probably stay at or around 40 to 50. Also the pouring point of the 10W60 at lower temps is identical to 5w40. 

If you also smell the 10W60 oil when new compared to the 5W40 by the same manufacturer, Castrol, the scent is distinctly different. Not saying the scent as anything to do with it being better but the smell of all the Castrol syntec products regardless of weight is the same until you get to the TWS oil at 10W60.


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

itr_1211 said:


> What's the fuel consumption like? Have you noticed an increase? Or the same?



I have yet get anywhere near 30 mpg in this car. I am averaging about 25mpg with mixed driving and I am aggressive with the throttle. Not really worried nor car about how the mileage is impacted by the heavier oil.


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## AwdOwns (Mar 29, 2009)

crackkills said:


> I have yet get anywhere near 30 mpg in this car. I am averaging about 25mpg with mixed driving and I am aggressive with the throttle. Not really worried nor car about how the mileage is impacted by the heavier oil.


I average 30mpg on the freeway. Have gotten as good as 33mpg so far.

That's both stock and with Stg.1 software.


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## scope213 (Feb 19, 2015)

AwdOwns said:


> I average 30mpg on the freeway. Have gotten as good as 33mpg so far.
> 
> That's both stock and with Stg.1 software.


You must no traffic in your area, lol. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


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## selp (Sep 17, 2015)

I used AMSOIL European 5w-40 Full saps at 500 miles.

Will do another one at 3000, and take to stealership at 5000. 
Continue then on doing them myself every 3000 miles.


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## araemo (Dec 9, 2012)

crackkills said:


> If you check the Castrol 10W60 oil specs you will see that it is the BEST oil Castrol makes as to sheering and detergents. If you are also telling me that a mass produced EA888 engine has tighter tolerances than the R8 V10 Plus engine that this oil is recommended thus leading to oil not going through some journals and orifices I will chuckle internally to the point of stomach cramps.
> 
> Enjoy your weight in good health I am by no means telling people what weight oil to use. I just stated what I used. Can't wait to blow up my engine and turbo.


Does the much higher output and higher compression R8 V10 plus engine have higher lubrication and cooling demands than the EA888? Sure, does that mean they are probably pushing MORE oil through than the EA888, and therefor might use even larger squirters to get more oil to the hot spots? Yeah. Was weight the main point of my comment? Nope, not at all. The rest is more important, in my opinion.

Did I say anything in particular about your weight being so high it'd damage the engine? Nope, not at all, but you asked how they could tell if you used the wrong weight.. well, I told you. And like I said originally, IF you get the weight wrong by enough, and do it for long enough, the wear patterns would be obvious on dissassembly. I didn't say you were getting it wrong by that much (or even that you were getting it wrong), I simply answered your question, so chuckle all you want about your bad reading comprehension.


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

Higher engine output of a R8 V10. Ok kids lets do some math......

Let's see 560hp divided by 5.2 liters equals 107.69 per liter. 

300hp divided by 2 equals 150 hp per liter. So much for higher output. Higher compression you say? Of course you are looking at a normally aspirated engine vs a turbo charged. 

More oil you say? 10.9 quarts for a 5.2 liter vs 6 quarts for a 2 liter. I guess you are saying volume but you are pulling that out of your ars assuming based on ZERO facts that the tolerances are tighter on the EA888 and the V10 pushes more oil and has bigger journals. 

Just having some fun with you. Don't get yourself all gummed up.


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## araemo (Dec 9, 2012)

crackkills said:


> Higher engine output of a R8 V10. Ok kids lets do some math......
> 
> Let's see 560hp divided by 5.2 liters equals 107.69 per liter.
> 
> ...


Yep, same number of relevant facts you're using.


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## PbanyS3 (Jun 13, 2015)

AwdOwns said:


> I average 30mpg on the freeway. Have gotten as good as 33mpg so far.
> 
> That's both stock and with Stg.1 software.




Never thought the S3 would be so good on gas. Forgive my ignorance but what other car besides the Golf R / Evo / WRX's could get such good mileage AND to 60 mph in the mid 4 second range?:beer::thumbup::beer:

Still have 212 miles on her but may change the oil at either 500,1000 or 1500 miles with 10w60, haven't decided yet...


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## selp (Sep 17, 2015)

PbanyS3 said:


> Never thought the S3 would be so good on gas. Forgive my ignorance but what other car besides the Golf R / Evo / WRX's could get such good mileage AND to 60 mph in the mid 4 second range?:beer::thumbup::beer:
> 
> Still have 212 miles on her but may change the oil at either 500,1000 or 1500 miles with 10w60, haven't decided yet...


It gets better and better. The computer still needs to adapt and learn. I feel that every mode (comfort, dynamic, individual, auto) needs to learn. Sort of, like switching maps on my evo (race tune and daily tune). 
Right now, I am able to average 28-29mpg on city driving, haven't done much highway. On my GTI I used to get 32-33mpg. I am shooting for the Audi to give me 30-31mpg and ill be happy.


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## crackkills (Mar 10, 2007)

selp said:


> It gets better and better. The computer still needs to adapt and learn. I feel that every mode (comfort, dynamic, individual, auto) needs to learn. Sort of, like switching maps on my evo (race tune and daily tune).
> Right now, I am able to average 28-29mpg on city driving, haven't done much highway. On my GTI I used to get 32-33mpg. I am shooting for the Audi to give me 30-31mpg and ill be happy.


28 to 29 mpg on city driving? Really? They must have slipped a TDI engine in your car by accident.


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## scope213 (Feb 19, 2015)

I think some drivers live outside the city where there's wide open roads. Different story if you live in Los Angeles, lol. I get 20 mpg... 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


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## M this 2! (Feb 8, 2012)

You will also see better mileage after 5000. That is where the oil pressure goes from break in level to regular. I'm wondering if this is also why they want the lighter viscosity break in oil left for the full duration. The old school, drop your oil at 1000 miles has no bearing today from what I can find or hear from my senior techs at work. What HAS been proven to affect your motor is babying it like a tiny kitten and finding out you now have a turd of an S3 compared to others. 

Back on the mileage, I was driving from L.A. to Boise, Id. when I crossed the 5000 mile barrier. I had 3 bikes on my roof, was going quite fast and unfortunately was dealing with hundreds of miles of headwind. SUCKED!! Was getting 17mpg.... SO I'd hoped when I crossed that mileage I'd see a jump. It didn't happen, but the next day or so it jumped up huge!! Was seeing low 30s on a freeway stretch going in both directions. Pretty cool to have the increase. Even after GIAC, it's the same.


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