# Sticky  TT/TTS/TTRS (MK2) Do-It-Yourself (DIY) thread



## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

No one has started this as a sticky yet, but we need it. I have a couple of DIY's that I need to turn into posts here for you guys. In the meanwhile, if any of you have step-by-step DIY's you'd like to share, lets make this the knowledge tank for us MK2 TT nutters!


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## 1TT1 (Sep 27, 2007)

I have a couple of DIY to share too...


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## CaliforniaTT (Nov 11, 2008)

he he! other than the APR software everything has been DIY on the tt...i will post a couple later


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

*Re: TT/TTS/TTRS (MK2) Do-It-Yourself (DIY) thread (iModTTS)*

OK, here is the first one, because someone has to de-virginize this thread, son!
* Forge Motorsports OCT (OIL CATCH TANK)








1. Yank off the OEM accordion hose (orange arrow) that runs from the Intake manifold to the front PCV assembly. You'll need to pinch the clasps on both sides of the connector.








2. Next pop on the manifold block-off plug. (yellow arrow) Check to make sure the O-ring is properly seated in its groove before installing. We did this by holding the O-ring in place at the 12 o'clock position with a flathead screwdriver. Slightly twist the plug until when you look into the opening on the plug, the bolt holes have cleared the lip on the manifold. 








3. Next, remove the front PCV plate assembly. First pull off the hose on the driver side, which is held in place with 4 "teeth". Remove the side teeth and the top tooth by gently lifting them up and over the lip on the nipple one at a time with your flat head screwdriver. When those are free of the lip, slide it off. This step is hard because the clip is very easy to break, so be careful and don't force it. After you've pulled the hose, remove the 4 T-25 torx screws (white arrows)holding the front PCV plate to the valve cover. Put these 4 screws aside as you will re-use them on the Forge PCV plate.








4. The OEM plate is then completely removed and will no longer be used, so you can set that aside. Place the Forge PCV plate against the valve cover and re-install using the 4 OEM screws (white arrows). Once installed and sitting flush reinstall the OEM PCV hose. (yellow arrow) This is a tight fit and in addition to some serious patience, you will want to guide the O-rings into the hole with the tip of your flat head screwdriver. You can also slip the supplied rubber hoses into place. (orange arrows) 








5. The next step is to install the catch can on the aluminum motor mount housing. Simply back out the T-30 bolt in the motor mount housing and re-install the bolt through the bottom OCT bracket. Use the supplied secondary bolt to attach the top bracket to the vacant threaded hole that it aligns with on the top of the motor mount housing. (orange arrows)








6. Next step is to just run the supplied hoses from the Forge PCV plate to the corresponding nipple on the OCT. (orange arrows) The fitting on the right side of the plate will be connected to the right side nipple of the OCT. The fitting on the left will go to the left nipple on the OCT. Cut the hoses about a half an inch longer than the run needs to be to allow for the typical movement of the 2.0T engine. The fit was rather tight, almost a pressure fit on the PCV plate, but I used the supplied hose clamps on the OCT itself. 








7. Finally, zip-tie your hose runs together (white arrows) to keep everything tidy, and to make sure the hoses stay out of the way of the front engine cover plug. Bam, you're done son! Now just watch the "view tube" periodically and use the drain plug fitting on the bottom of the OCT to drain it once the sludge finally starts to build up. Thanks again to my homie Sean (Uber_A3) for showing me the ropes on this one.

*



_Modified by iModTTS at 12:49 PM 7/17/2009_


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## martin2408 (Dec 31, 2008)

i can see this is gonna be an awesome resource thread.
i'll start posting some here once i get some time to start modding my tt


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## The Pretender (Jun 22, 2008)

*Re: TT/TTS/TTRS (iModTTS)*

And what does it do for the engine. ?


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

*Re: TT/TTS/TTRS (The Pretender)*


_Quote, originally posted by *The Pretender* »_And what does it do for the engine. ?

It lengthens its useful life by cycling out sludge and contaminants. No HP/TQ gains with this mod. It's just smart to do to keep your engine healthy if you tend to drive hard, like I do. Preventative mod.


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## TJ_MK2TT (Jun 21, 2009)

im only jealous of the OCT bc i cant get it on my 3.2... grr... great write up, always a useful soul on here iMod... TTRS spoiler soon?


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## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

some one do a remove the backseats forums so I don't have to go at it blind.


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

*Re: (NeverOEM)*

N.OEM-
If you mean the actual cushion, it yanks up. Heres the DIY:
1. Grasp cushion firmly
2. Yoink that ish upward one corner at a time
3. Store it in your attic like old man Jason does
4. Enjoy the sound of your exhaust 100x more
You may send me a donation of your liking to my PayPal account


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

*Re: TT/TTS/TTRS (MK2) Do-It-Yourself (DIY) thread (iModTTS)*

*This is not a traditional DIY post, but I stumbled across it on the internet.*
I _totally_ didn't come up with this myself. That being said this is not legal advice, and I claim no responsibility for the outcome, should you attempt to try this at home.
Scenario:
So what if a fellow was to get a no front plate ticket in California (or elsewhere) and the fellow somehow forgot to get his ticket payed in time so it turned into a FTA? What if that fellow went to court and the night before, he "pre-dated" a check, wrote in the docket number and photocopied that plus the front of the citation? Now what if this kindly fellow informed the magistrate, that in good faith, he sent his payment and signed citation in earlier in the month and only had this photocopy he'd kept for his "financial" records? 
Do you suppose the fellow would still be stuck with a $485- FTA (Failure To Appear) or would that fellow be looking at buying an exhaust with his savings after paying the $25- original fix it ticket? One must wonder.....
Now, if you get a fix-it-ticket for no-front-plate, the right thing to do is permanently affix the missing plate to your car. This way redlight cameras and or speed cameras can accurately identify you and issue you a citation. We all want to make sure that happens so we can operate within the confines of the laws which were created for our safety and the safety of our fellow motorists.








*Some people who have european plates, or no plates and therefore no extra holes in the front plate filler piece. The other option, if you operate on a slightly mischievous level is to "front it" like so:

1. buy a pack of double sided emblem tape
2. tape the license plate in the frame,
3. buy two 1/2" flathead sheet metal screws and pop them through the top two holes
4. on the backside of the plate stick on two pieces of emblem tape with pilot holes punched into them to grab the threads on the plate and give the appearance of being bolted-up to the grille of the car
5. next strategically place larger pieces of the double-sided emblem tape to the back of your license plate and stick it on moments before getting your ticket signed off at the local friendly police department.
6. tear that f'n thing off within 60 seconds of pulling out of the PD parking lot. Home free, now enjoy your clean screw hole free front-end.








Of course I personally would never do this, because I have a healthy respect for the law and understand that they are just doing their job. I would never devise such a devious and unlawful work-around such as this, and you should not either. 
*



_Modified by iModTTS at 9:00 AM 7/24/2009_


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## NeverOEM (Dec 17, 2007)

and I meant the back rests lol


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## martin2408 (Dec 31, 2008)

anyone got any further DIY's


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## N-TT-09-S (Jun 24, 2009)

*Re: (martin2408)*


_Quote, originally posted by *martin2408* »_anyone got any further DIY's

A few...I'll get around to posting soon.


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## TJ_MK2TT (Jun 21, 2009)

ill be posting up an Intake DIY next week


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## A4 1.8 Turbo (Feb 28, 2005)

*Re: (TJ_MK2TT)*

you guys should get up the basic diy's for things like brakes and oil changes. Because we all know its a matter of time before people start asking about the basic stuff like that.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (A4 1.8 Turbo)*


_Quote, originally posted by *A4 1.8 Turbo* »_you guys should get up the basic diy's for things like brakes and oil changes. Because we all know its a matter of time before people start asking about the basic stuff like that. 

1. drain oil
2. remove filter
3. pour new oil
4. attached new filter
i guess i left out the key details like remove oil dain plug, and i never told you where to pour the new oil.....guess your oil changing days will have to wait


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## DgonzTT (Oct 8, 2009)

Dont seem to find a H.I.D. DIY... I'll be installing two kits (headlamps & fogs) sometime this week.... I'll take pix and write up the steps i took for the install


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## DarthTTs (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: (DgonzTT)*


_Quote, originally posted by *TJ_MK2TT* »_ill be posting up an Intake DIY next week










_Quote, originally posted by *N-TT-09-S* »_
A few...I'll get around to posting soon.


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## newtlicious (Aug 7, 2006)

*Re: (speed51133!)*

You might want to affix the new filter before pouring 5.8 quarts of synthetic into your engine. Lest ye have a 5.8 qt puddle of said synthetic on your driveway.


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (newtlicious)*

no, the filter is no where near the sump....ill have to make a diy to put on the oil filter like the guy with the diy on "how to tape a license plate to your bumper" complete with 15 steps supported by annectodal evidence.


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

*Re: (speed51133!)*


_Quote, originally posted by *speed51133!* »_no, the filter is no where near the sump....ill have to make a diy to put on the oil filter like the guy with the diy on "how to tape a license plate to your bumper" complete with 15 steps supported by annectodal evidence.

Yep this thread is not getting the involvement that I had hoped for.....


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## speed51133! (Aug 5, 2002)

*Re: (iModTTS)*

most mk2tt owners are older, and not modding....give it a few years for used ttmk2 prices to come down.


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## DarthTTs (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: (iModTTS)*

Just to give something back to the community, I’m new to the Audi world, and also new to the hate-love relationship with the 2.0TFSI engine. So I will say this is my way to say thank you to all for posting a lot of information.
So I’m going to just copy the link for a very good –at least the one I followed- DIY on oil change here in the forum, and some pictures of the one I just did a few days ago, hoping it will help someone.
Enjoy.

Link:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/...=9103
I had to use a board beneath the ramp ... 









I think the hardest part is to remove the splash cover:

















Finally the filter cover








Drian plug tool, yeah right....








Filter removed, 








Do you really believe this oil has 3000 miles?


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

*Re: (DarthTTs)*

What replacement oil did you use, and, whose filter?


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## DarthTTs (Dec 7, 2009)

*Re: (LongviewTx)*

Mobil 1 0W40 and the OEM oil filter from ECStuning http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif 


_Modified by DarthTTs at 6:53 PM 3/29/2010_


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## Tcardio (Mar 19, 2009)

*Re: (DarthTTs)*

That is possibly the worst oil ever made for our engines!


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## LongviewTx (Dec 26, 1999)

*Re: (tcardio)*


_Quote, originally posted by *tcardio* »_That is possibly the worst oil ever made for our engines!

Wow, please elaborate on your claim.


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

*Re: (ttaz02)*

OK new DIY time. This one is more practical and I was inspired to do this for BBLACK who is one of our forum users.
I use http://www.photobucket.com You can open a free account with them, and all you do is:








*1. go to ("my albums") and click on it*








*2. then it gives you the option of ("choosing file") to add new pics off your desktop*








*3. then copy and paste the ("img code") into the body of your forum post*
To post pics on Fourtitude select ("img code") Other forums may use a slightly different format such as ("html code")
Mazel-tov homies!


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## TheWolfsburg (Sep 22, 2007)

tcardio said:


> That is possibly the worst oil ever made for our engines!


yes, please, elaborate


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

This is from a forum overseas, but if you have the 3.2 or TTS and are looking for the EVOMS intake this will help you with your install. You just need to move the "UFO shaped" noisepipe section back towards the firewall on the TTS. More on that in Webisode 9ish 

[DIY of EVOMS intake]


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## MitsuVdub (Jan 2, 2008)

*TT MKII brake light bulb replacement*

Couldn't find anything online for the MKII's so I took some pics as I replaced this wear & tear item. Pretty simple (sort of :sly. I'll post them if anyone's interested?


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

MitsuVdub said:


> Couldn't find anything online for the MKII's so I took some pics as I replaced this wear & tear item. Pretty simple (sort of :sly. I'll post them if anyone's interested?


Mine goes wonky all the time, and the dealership is getting sick of me coming by! I'd be into seeing how it gets done for the future.

TIA-
Jason


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## TJ_MK2TT (Jun 21, 2009)

i figured i didnt to clogg this superbusy section of fourtitude so ill ask here!  
any one have any idea how to remove the rear seats off a coupe?


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

TJ_MK2TT said:


> i figured i didnt to clogg this superbusy section of fourtitude so ill ask here!
> any one have any idea how to remove the rear seats off a coupe?


 TJ- 
I dont have pics, but here is the breakdown since I just yoinked mine out. The rear seat and parcel shelf components weigh 56 lbs btw! 

You need to pull the rear interior 1/4 panels to get to the lg. star torx bolts on either side of the rear seat back rest. It's not entirely easy, and then there is a 15mm socket needed to pull out the center brace which affixes under the rear seat for the seat belts. I don't have pics to share with you of the process since I pulled them out super quick before I dropped the car off for the next round of mods last week. 

Hope this helps man. 
Jason


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## TJ_MK2TT (Jun 21, 2009)

iModTTS said:


> TJ-
> I dont have pics, but here is the breakdown since I just yoinked mine out. The rear seat and parcel shelf components weigh 56 lbs btw!
> 
> You need to pull the rear interior 1/4 panels to get to the lg. star torx bolts on either side of the rear seat back rest. It's not entirely easy, and then there is a 15mm socket needed to pull out the center brace which affixes under the rear seat for the seat belts. I don't have pics to share with you of the process since I pulled them out super quick before I dropped the car off for the next round of mods last week.
> ...


 Thanks Jason! gives me some of a guide, i tried today, but im scared to break **** :laugh: i have the bentley but cant find the damn dvd! :facepalm: posted over on the UK forum and some dude tried to say that the reat seats dont shed weight :what: it would be great to find a DIY with some pics and shizz, ill keep on searching online and at home for the bentley, ill be sure to post up here if i find anything..


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

TJ_MK2TT said:


> Thanks Jason! gives me some of a guide, i tried today, but im scared to break **** :laugh: i have the bentley but cant find the damn dvd! :facepalm: posted over on the UK forum and some dude tried to say that the reat seats dont shed weight :what: it would be great to find a DIY with some pics and shizz, ill keep on searching online and at home for the bentley, ill be sure to post up here if i find anything..


TJ, I'm hyped to hear that you are looking into doing some ICE modding too. The biggest PITA in the removal of the rear seats is the star-torx that has to slid under the rear passenger 1/4 panel to reach the bolt that free's up the rear seat. There is nothing really to break if you take your time. I pulled all of mine out in under 20 mins solo style. As for whomever claims that you don't recoup lost weight when pulling out the all metal framed rear seat..... well thats just asinine.:wave:


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## J. Dub (Dec 18, 2010)

I love this thread


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## iMod.:R (Nov 14, 2005)

J. Dub said:


> I love this thread


Me.... not so much. I was hopeful that more people would share what they've been up to. Maybe people just "google" the mods and don't have to figure it all out themselves anymore? Either way I hope others revive this thread.


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

i usually forget to take pictures of the DIY and end up not writing up a DIY bc i dont have pictures LOL


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## onequickg60 (Dec 3, 2000)

*OSIR gauge pod install..*

i search the web before tackling mine and mount nothing on the MKII.. 

this is to detail taking the vent out and install the pod ring.. i do not currently have a boost gauge to do a full gauge write up but will add to this once i do so..

first is to get a decent screw driver to pry out the vent.. just stick the screw driver between the vent and dash and wedge slightly til you can get a finger grip on it and use your hand to pull the rest out..









2nd step is to stick a think screw driver between the metal trim and plastic for the vent and give it a slight twist i tried 2 diffrent spots and it popped off.. just repeat going round the trim till it is completly off..

















the end result will look like this..

















next step is to remove the plastic trim piece that opens and closes the vent from the metal trim ring.. look on the inside and you will see 3 tabs.. you can use you flat screw driver and pop them loose then seperate..









you will end up with 2 pieces like this..









next line up the 3 tabs from the OSIR pod it will only go on 1 way as the tabs are not evenly spaced.. so if you put it on you will have to spin it until the tabs line up then click it in place..

















final result with out gauge installed is this..









i hope this helps i few people out.. im far from a teacher.. and not use to doing step by step write ups..


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## blazedani (Mar 9, 2011)

*DIY: HID kit installation in Audi TT mk2*

*DIY: HID kit installation in Audi TT mk2
*
Im attaching a video from youtube of HID kit Installation on a New Audi TT mk2

You don´t need to drill your headlight cover.

Nobody could tell the difference between the halogen vs the OEM HID headlights (no cables or ballasts outside the headlight)


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

so for all the 3.2L owners, this upcoming weekend ill be changing out my sparks, so stay tuned for a diy... for future reference NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs are on order, reference to part IZKR7B.

oh since i never updated my stereo thread, im adding a amp soon so ill toss up an aftermarket headunit wiring DIY too :thumbup:


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## StreeterTT (Apr 22, 2010)

onequickg60 said:


> i search the web before tackling mine and mount nothing on the MKII..
> 
> this is to detail taking the vent out and install the pod ring.. i do not currently have a boost gauge to do a full gauge write up but will add to this once i do so..
> 
> ...


Nice info. and this is how the work looks when is finshed with OSIR pods for example my AEM boost controller and wideband gauge.


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## lcrcr (Jun 10, 2005)

*Changing TTS Brake Pads*

Can anyone post a DYI on changing out the front and rear brake pads on a stock TTS? Or point out one that exists somewhere else?


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

Uh oh 


Sent from my iPhone4 using Tapatalk


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## DrDomm (Feb 16, 2003)

lcrcr said:


> Can anyone post a DYI on changing out the front and rear brake pads on a stock TTS? Or point out one that exists somewhere else?


There is a DIY somewhere for Golf/GTI that is the same.


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## lcrcr (Jun 10, 2005)

DrDomm said:


> There is a DIY somewhere for Golf/GTI that is the same.


Indeed: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3942932

:wave:


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## drschmidt (Aug 25, 2009)

*Ipod interface Original Audi*

I buy this ipod interface from ECS Tunning. The installation instruction are very confuse. Does any one now how to install. Maybe a video or more datailled. Thanks!!!
I own a 2008 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro.


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

Seeming that I like the amber mod that Jason and his vinyl came up with, I'm going to take it one step further this weekend and going to attempt to remove the actual reflector and spray can them matte black. One of the B8 owners just did his - ended up giving me the confidence to do the TT ones. I'm going was going to buy euro headlights in the UK but I figure I might attempt this mod, and if all goes well I'll save myself atleast $1200. 

Heatgun, flathead screwdriver, matte black spray can, torx set, masking tape and some backup silicone here I come!


---
- Sent from my iPhone4.


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## kendoist4162 (Mar 15, 2010)

Take lots of pics and post please! :thumbup:


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

havent tackled the headlights yet - on the TO-DO list but started a little interior mod. always felt the s-tronic/dsg was so out of place in comparison to the rest of the interior with the atrocious shifter.

so a few pics of what ive done tonight so far (note to self, turn off the flash :facepalm:





























looked somewhat like this:










yes, i know its not a manual and its the world's biggest dead pedal, but atleast the interior looks tons better, to me atleast


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

all done and completed :thumbup:


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## TheSandeman (Jan 12, 2011)

fog delete anyone?


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

*Torque Arm Insert*


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

*Engine Oil and FIlter on a 3.2L VR6 TT*

Oil Filter - You need just one 










I rolled the car up on a stepped ramp and setup the Griots Garage oil extractor.









Remove the underbody plastic panel by removing the T25, T30 and T40 screws. Note the location of the drain plug at the back of the oil pan and the oil filter housing (black with a 6mm allen bolt) in the front. 









I can usually extract 5 quarts from the dipstick tube using the extractor. I like this approach as it does not fill up the pan under the car. You can also just do all the draining from under the car.









19mm socket for the oil pan drain bolt for the oil. Then the 6mm allen key for draining the oil filter housing - this bolt is then screwed back in. Lastly, the 36mm oil filter socket (or a 36mm axle socket will work) to unbolt the oil filter housing and switch the filter and screw it back in. Just snog and not nuts as that is a plastic housing. New O-ring comes with the filter.









Put everything back together under the car and fill the engine with fresh oil - I like Castrol Syntec/Edge 5w40 (VW 502 00 rated).

Roll the car onto level ground and start it up. Let it idle for a couple of minutes and then shut off. Wait for 2-4 minutes and check level - top off if needed.


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## danoz tts (Jul 5, 2012)

who wants to post up a diy for chaning springs. i have a 2010 tts (with mag ride) and have purchased H&R lowering springs. any tips, info, or links would be handy dandy 

thanks


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## Fade To Black (Mar 23, 2009)

Does anybody have any info on screw locations to remove front bumper cover? I got a new grill and I want to put it on, but I'm not sure where all of the screws are and I think there are 2 behind the fender well?
TIA:beer:


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

Fade To Black said:


> Does anybody have any info on screw locations to remove front bumper cover? I got a new grill and I want to put it on, but I'm not sure where all of the screws are and I think there are 2 behind the fender well?
> TIA:beer:


This is from my RS, should be similar for the rest tho.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt2/msgs/16241.phtml


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## escalad3 (Mar 18, 2011)

TheSandeman said:


> all done and completed :thumbup:


Nice. How do u change gear without the button


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## xBassi (May 26, 2011)

anyone have a DIY on how to change the shift knob on a manual tt? are there short shift kits for the 3.2 manual tt? if so are there any DIY on that as well?

thanks


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## JohnLZ7W (Nov 23, 2003)

xBassi said:


> anyone have a DIY on how to change the shift knob on a manual tt? are there short shift kits for the 3.2 manual tt? if so are there any DIY on that as well?
> 
> thanks


I've got some instructions for removing the center console trim to get access to the shift knob.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt2/msgs/21856.phtml


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## pal (Aug 16, 2000)

Schrick 268 Cams Install on a 3.2 TT

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6007827-TT-3.2-Schrick-268-Cams-Install


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## psabo (Oct 3, 2008)

Now, if you get a fix-it-ticket for no-front-plate, the right thing to do is permanently affix the missing plate to your car. This way redlight cameras and or speed cameras can accurately identify you and issue you a citation. We all want to make sure that happens so we can operate within the confines of the laws which were created for our safety and the safety of our fellow motorists.








*Some people who have european plates, or no plates and therefore no extra holes in the front plate filler piece. The other option, if you operate on a slightly mischievous level is to "front it" like so:

1. buy a pack of double sided emblem tape
2. tape the license plate in the frame,
3. buy two 1/2" flathead sheet metal screws and pop them through the top two holes
4. on the backside of the plate stick on two pieces of emblem tape with pilot holes punched into them to grab the threads on the plate and give the appearance of being bolted-up to the grille of the car
5. next strategically place larger pieces of the double-sided emblem tape to the back of your license plate and stick it on moments before getting your ticket signed off at the local friendly police department.
6. tear that f'n thing off within 60 seconds of pulling out of the PD parking lot. Home free, now enjoy your clean screw hole free front-end.








Of course I personally would never do this, because I have a healthy respect for the law and understand that they are just doing their job. I would never devise such a devious and unlawful work-around such as this, and you should not either. 
*



_Modified by iModTTS at 9:00 AM 7/24/2009_[/QUOTE]

This works great BTW, I have "seen" it done


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

Front inner cv boot replacement for 2008 r32, should be same/similar on 3.2 TT or any cv type inner driveshaft joint: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7047356-Inner-cv-boot-replacement-front-driveshaft


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## SDZ007 (Aug 7, 2014)

anyone got any info on how to remove the throttle body on the tfsi? I can get to the dam bolts!


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## Audi_Mechanic (Mar 24, 2012)

SDZ007 said:


> anyone got any info on how to remove the throttle body on the tfsi? I can get to the dam bolts!


Which bolts? The ones that screw the throttle onto the intake manifold, more specifically the two on the engine block side? If so, I use a long T30 socket or a short length T30 with short extensions.


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## rtbrjason (Jun 14, 2015)

Any how to guides on the other fluids as far as what to change when and how? I'm interested in changing DSG fluid, Haldex and rear diff? Am I missing any other drive train fluids other than engine oil with those 3?

Any good guides would be helpful. I did some googling around and didn't find a lot of info. I found a lot of DSG fluid kits for sale, I see where the filter is and how to drain it, but I have no clue where to fill it.

EDIT: Here is a good how to on the DSG fluid change. This appears to be the same setup I have in my 2011 TT.. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=169356


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## northendroid (Sep 16, 2014)

*42 Draft Design Shifter Bushings - Phenix Engineering shifter cable bracket bushing installation - Updated*

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...ign-Shifter-Bushing-Installation-Lots-of-Pics





*Update: Brass washers shown in the photo are incorrect they need to be reversed. Thicker washer goes in first the thinner one goes on the nut side along with the S.S. washer.*


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## PorkyS4 (Apr 10, 2011)

*Installing an ATOTO Android Head Unit into my 8J TT RS*

After a year of putting up with the outdated RNS-E in my 2010 TT RS and being disappointed with the pricing and capability of the “name” brands having GPS capability, I decided to go for an Android Head Unit from ATOTO. I was encouraged by some of the on-line reviews I'd seen and when the box arrived I could see that the ATOTO A6 was a nicely made item. I bench-tested the unit using a 12V power source and found everything claimed for the unit to be accurate. I used this opportunity to download some offline maps to give me coverage away from WiFi and mobile phone coverage. I installed it in the Audi, which has a Bose sound system, and am very pleased with the result, with much better sound than the original Audi unit. The ATOTO owner's manual is well-written in excellent English, and easy to understand. User support for registered users is also excellent.
What’s in the Box:
It came with the Head Unit, microphone, WiFi antenna, GPS antenna, microphone, 2x USB cables, a unit power plug with bare wires, and a double ISO power plug to suit my vehicle (a 2010 Audi TT RS).
What else you need (Connects2 products are branded AerPro in Australia)

Connects2: CTSAD002.2 or	AerPro: CHAD3C Audi Can-Bus Steering Wheel Control Interface for cars with full Bose systems.

https://imgur.com/boKily0
 https://i.imgur.com/boKily0.jpg
Connects2: CT27AA56 or	AerPro: APA60 Double Fakra Antenna Adapter

https://imgur.com/jDvgEIh

Connects2: CTMULTILEAD.2 or	AerPro: APUNIPL2 Patch Lead (for self-learn of steering wheel controls) 

https://imgur.com/DXFXfsE

Connects2: CT23AU05 or	AerPro: FP8022 and FP953000 Facia kit and mounting cradle

https://imgur.com/FTjWu06

ATOTO supplied ISO power Harness for Audi/VW

https://imgur.com/9SwtvtN

ATOTO supplied Bare wires Power Harness if you need to fabricate your own

https://imgur.com/ntntBB9

Removing the RNS-E:

Make sure you get a proper set of HU removal keys. I tried some generic ones without success. The Audi/VW/Skoda ones worked perfectly.

https://imgur.com/iub7H3k

You can fit three of the keys into their slots in the RNS-E, but the fourth requires the HU to be powered on so the screen can fold out of the way to allow access. Place a folded towel over the console to prevent damage to the surface during handling.

https://imgur.com/YFIxr1c

https://imgur.com/h97golY

Once you’ve released the HU, power the HU down or pull the fourth key out quickly before the screen closes automatically. Release the keys by pressing on the spring-loaded retainers on the sides of the HU.

https://imgur.com/jyJVxvL
 
Here’s what’s left after you remove the HU and release the Audi harnesses. Please note this is an Australian delivered car and it does not have a seatbelt warning light to be removed from the original facia – just a blanking plate which is transferred to the new facia.

https://imgur.com/Djr2dy5

Installing the Facia Trim – just guide it in, allowing the plastic retainer pieces to bend, then snap into place.

https://imgur.com/phUI1ww

Inserting the cradle – guide it in, keeping it square to the facia piece - I had to Dremel the plastic in the corners of the Audi liner to allow easier insertion of the cradle, which was very tight.

https://imgur.com/yj65mCT

Securing the Cradle – use a screwdriver to press as many of the triangular cut-outs into the liner as you can

https://imgur.com/9MeeaGd

Attach the mounting plates that came with the facia kit to the sides of the HU. I mounted the plates as far forward as the adjustment allowed to push the HU back as far as possible. There are tiny tabs that fit into slots in the plate, to give positive adjustment. The ATOTO mounting brackets supplied with the HU are not suitable for use with the Connects2 facia.

https://imgur.com/W1r7RSW

Assembling the harness and adapters to the HU – here’s what the HU looks like from behind.

https://imgur.com/pzi8GRI
 
Connecting the harnesses and adapter to the HU

https://imgur.com/CfCxuSp

Connecting the assembly to the car

https://imgur.com/5yN8Y5s

The Quadlock connector is the main connection between the HU and the car. The other connections that must be made to the car are:
The aerial Fakra connector adapter to the car’s Fakra connector
USB and WiFi receivers can be placed in the glovebox in the area to be vacated by the music interface.
The 2x USB cables (one fast charge and one Easy Connect) can also be placed in this area.
There is one car connection that will not be used – this is the 32-pin connector that connects to the top left-hand corner of the rear of the RNS-E. It remains in the space behind the HU.

Booting the Unit up

When I first connected the unit to the car and powered it up, everything worked, except the sound! Disappointing, but I knew the sound worked, from my prior bench-testing. The radio and music displays showed that sound was happening in the HU, but not getting through to the amp. First reaction was to check the blue wire connection that tells the amp to power up. This was connected properly. Following this was a period of consternation and much re-reading of instructions, to no avail. After some serious thinking, I connected my VAG-COM and found that the code to allow an amplifier switch-on by remote wire was not enabled. When I re-coded to do this, all was well. Your vehicle, if optioned the same as mine, may or may not encounter this issue. Advice received from Aerpro was that they had not encountered this issue before, but it was now noted in their notes for installers.

https://imgur.com/N8SUUDg

Finishing off

With everything singing and dancing, all that remained was to load some offline maps and music from a smartphone or a WiFi connection, and allow blue-tooth phone connection, and to explore the Android capabilities of the HU. The HU is a good match (in my non-audiophile opinion) for the Bose system and I believe the sound quality is improved over the RNS-E. The HU has a broad range of capabilities, effectively being an Android phone hard-wired to your car, documented very well in the owner’s manual, as well as being well served by ATOTO Customer Support. At this stage, I’m extremely happy with my choice.


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## Atlas Delmar (Nov 13, 2019)

If you are interested in a tutorial on how to remove the front bumper and the replacement of the grill please let me know.






atlasdelmar (@atlasdelmar) 's videos with original sound - atlasdelmar | TikTok


TikTok video from atlasdelmar (@atlasdelmar). original sound - atlasdelmar.




vm.tiktok.com


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## JMBone (4 mo ago)

Just recently installed 034's rear subframe bushing insert kit. Super easy for any DIY-er, if you have all your tools and lifting gear ready before hand it can probably be done within an hour. Made a pretty noticeable difference when the car is loaded up from acceleration, shifting (probably more so with a manual), and hard cornering. I recommend it for someone looking to do a cheap mod to get more fun out of their car, but not wanting to add NVH. I haven't noticed any harsher of a ride at all.


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