# What type of harness after market headunit



## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

I have been searching around this forum trying to find a post that would give me all the info I need to install a new headunit. Well I am now more confused 

So can someone help me in getting all the parts needed to install the following headunit into my 04 TT with Bose system please.

Headunit I think I am going to be getting:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JVC+-+5...iver/4707085.p?id=1218512775506&skuId=4707085

I know I need to buy some kind of adapter with RCA cables for the Bose System, but not sure which one I need. I also think I need to tap into a power wire under the dash, but not 100% sure on that one.

I currently have a GROM unit with BT and ipod hookup, but I really want to be able to see what I am actually playing on the headunit instead of just Track1, Track2, etc.

Thanks,

Ken~


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

just did this, pay the extra $20-40 and go with http://crutchfield.com my install box arrived today, very happy with having them choose all the right adapters and connectors for me. 

One thing you should add is a ground loop isolator ($15-20) so your BOSE doesn't POP when you turn it on. 

Also if you don't want to trim a Metra trim piece (or buy an overpriced OSIRs one), these liitle guys are great: 

http://www.cartuningparts.co.uk/aud...afascia-surround-trim-for-fitting-car-stereo/


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

So after doing some more searching around below is what I have come up with. Can someone double check me to make sure I have everything needed for the install please? 

Head Unit: 
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer...Deck/4005224.p?id=1218447375402&skuId=4005224 

Receiver Wiring Harness: 
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701787/Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977 

Antenna Adapter: 
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040VW54/Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569 

Ground loop isolator: 
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Systems...46504147&sr=8-4&keywords=ground+loop+isolator 

Mounting Adapter: 
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Metra+-...9469&skuId=9435845&st=audi tt metra&cp=1&lp=2 

Side Trim Cover: 
http://www.cartuningparts.co.uk/aud...afascia-surround-trim-for-fitting-car-stereo/ 

If there is a better place to buy any of these parts let me know. However I do have a $75 gift card to Best Buy which is where I will probably buy the radio from. 

Also do I still have to tap into the fuse panel at all for power? I can't find the thread now, but I thought I read I had to tap into the fuse for another power line since I have an 04 Audi with Bose. 

Thanks, 

Ken~


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

kmusk01 said:


> So after doing some more searching around below is what I have come up with. Can someone double check me to make sure I have everything needed for the install please?
> 
> Head Unit:
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer...Deck/4005224.p?id=1218447375402&skuId=4005224
> ...


 If you can get the Metra to work you don't need the side trim cover from the uk. I used the Metra 99-9100 with no problems. Use the upper trim piece in the Best Buy pic It's the Scosche and AI that don't fit correctly and you have to trim. 

IIRC on 2002+ cars you might need to run a switched power from the fuse panel, otherwise the aftermarket head unit won't power up. Use an inline fuse to protect it. In addition if you are using the Bose amp turn off the internal amps on the Pioneer if it's possible it should sound better.


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

Yeah I figure I will have to get my dremel out for the kit. I have had to do that in the past on my other cars. 

Does anyone have a picture or two where I need to tap into? 

Wanting to try and get everything ordered early next week. That way I can get the radio installed next weekend. 

Thanks for all the help thus far. 

Ken~


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

AudiMick said:


> If you can get the Metra to work you don't need the side trim cover from the uk. I used the Metra 99-9100 with no problems. Use the upper trim piece in the Best Buy pic It's the Scosche and AI that don't fit correctly and you have to trim.
> 
> IIRC on 2002+ cars you might need to run a switched power from the fuse panel, otherwise the aftermarket head unit won't power up. Use an inline fuse to protect it. In addition if you are using the Bose amp turn off the internal amps on the Pioneer if it's possible it should sound better.


 can you close the tt flap with the metra?


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

toy4two2 said:


> can you close the tt flap with the metra?


 That's more dependent on the head unit, with my Kenwood it closes fine.


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

kmusk01 said:


> Yeah I figure I will have to get my dremel out for the kit. I have had to do that in the past on my other cars.
> 
> Does anyone have a picture or two where I need to tap into?
> 
> ...


 Probably TERM 75


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

the little UK "ears" allow head units that would normally block the flap from closing, close if you sand off the side ridges.


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

@AudiMick 

Will this work for my inline fuse: 
http://www.amazon.com/In-line-ACT-W...F8&qid=1346603714&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+fuse 

Does anyone have a good write up for the newer style audi 02+ radio install ? The ones I keep finding or for either a non bose system, or older system. 

Ken~


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## tt_kcalb_nevar (Feb 26, 2010)

kmusk01 said:


> @AudiMick
> 
> *Does anyone have a good write up for the newer style audi 02+ radio install ? The ones I keep finding or for either a non bose system, or older system.
> *
> Ken~


 
I too would love to see a write up for replacing the concert2 bose system, the wiring is what freaks me out a bit...


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

You need to remove the underside of the drivers side of the dash. Once you remove it and look above the foot rest you will see terminal 75 easily. Can't miss it. With the right harness its super easy and mostly plug n play. Did you find a write up on removing the lower dash? Audi went crazy with mounting screws on the drivers end of the dash under the cover panel. 

Dash kit pretty much just need a trim ring on the bottom in that Metra kit to fill out the extra space around the radio. Those side trim pieces are useless. The radio mounts to the dash using the sleeve that comes with it so you don't really need the upper part in the Metra pic. Fits to the opening in the dash with no problems. 

If your radio has pre-outs just connect them to the RCA plugs on the adapter harness. No need for a ground loop isolator. If you have turn on pop than you did something wrong. Also GLI will take away from the sound quality and is for reducing noise not turn on pops. Turn on pop is not a result of grounding issues.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

dogger said:


> If your radio has pre-outs just connect them to the RCA plugs on the adapter harness. No need for a ground loop isolator. If you have turn on pop than you did something wrong. Also GLI will take away from the sound quality and is for reducing noise not turn on pops. Turn on pop is not a result of grounding issues.


 I just installed my radio and took your advice and did not install the Ground Loop Isolator on the front RCA outs like every other audi TT stereo install guide says. Every time I changed sources and on turn on I got a terrible POP it sounds like its going to blow out your speakers. 


So my advice is buy a GLI and install it on the front speaker RCAs, don't bother with the back. As far as I can tell on my BOSE the rear is just used for fill and you can't fade to it anyway.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

You are doing something wrong if you are getting noise problems like that. Check the ground on the radio and make sure you are getting a solid ground. Its very possible the radio is seeking ground through the RCA's or something else is wrong with your wiring. 

I've worked in car audio for over 20 years and you should not need a GLI in this car. I have an Alpine headunit running through the factory Bose system on my car using the same Metra harness that was posted in this thread. Not a single issue with noise. The stock rear speakers should only play low frequencies like they did with the stock system. Only now their volume will go up and down with the radio properly. The factory radio you might have noticed the rear speakers pretty much played at the same output no matter where the volume knob was on the radio. 

GLI is just band aid for problems that can be solved properly.


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

I think I have everything ordered and should be here before the weekend I hope. Plan on going out today or tomorrow and getting the headunit. 

Will try to take pics to help others out. 

Hopefully it will all go smoothly  

Ken~


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

toy4two2 said:


> I just installed my radio and took your advice and did not install the Ground Loop Isolator on the front RCA outs like every other audi TT stereo install guide says. Every time I changed sources and on turn on I got a terrible POP it sounds like its going to blow out your speakers.
> 
> 
> So my advice is buy a GLI and install it on the front speaker RCAs, don't bother with the back. As far as I can tell on my BOSE the rear is just used for fill and you can't fade to it anyway.


 Before you do your install and remove the Concert check to see if your Fader control works. 

Some TTs only use the front outputs of the factory head unit, there are no rear channels and no Fader . If you check Bose RR and LR wiring is not is not included in the factory loom.. In that case you only need the Front RCAs. 

The Front and Back are run off of the Bose amp in parallel.


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

The low level output on the stock harness in my car has 5 wires. LF+, RF+, LR+, RR+, and common ground. Maybe the earlier cars paralleled the front and rears.


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

dogger said:


> The low level output on the stock harness in my car has 5 wires. LF+, RF+, LR+, RR+, and common ground. Maybe the earlier cars paralleled the front and rears.
> 
> My 2001 180Q Coupe has only Front wiring .


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## dogger (Jul 29, 2005)

Yea I was just showing the later plug for anyone who needed it as reference so people can understand on the later wiring there aren't separate negatives for each speaker output. Sorry I didn't clarify that in my post.


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

Supposedly the "popping" is because Audi floats the ground on the Bose Amp, aftermarket head units don't do that so there is a mismatch. 

That's why the GLI works but is not an ideal fix. 

Their are adapters for floating ground , one day I am going to try one.


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

thanks from saving me from rewiring my ground. 

On this thread their is a post on using a cap installed on the RCAs.. 

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2017945 

Honestly, I bought a high quality GLI called a PAC SNI-1 and notice zero loss of any bass or high frequency and vocals are crystal clear, I would recommend it for $15, I've heard those cheap ones don't have the same patented design with 1.3dB boost and lead to poor results. Got it form Crutchfield so not a knockoff.


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

Well took me a few hours but I finally installed the new radio over the weekend. I must have lost my mind as I was planning on taking pics of the whole process, but didn't take a single one 

I DID NOT have to use a GLI. I have no popping issues at all. I did however have to run an inline fuse line from the fuse block to the radio in order to get it to fully power on. 

Below are the links to the items that I bought to complete the install:

- Inline Fuse: http://www.amazon.com/In-line-ACT-W...sr=8-1&keywords=inline fuse&tag=5336121816-20

- Bose wiring harness: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-f2tjTHJaBih/p_120701787/Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977

- Antenna Adapter: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040VW54/Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569

- Mounting Adapter: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Metra+-...&ci_src=5784816&ci_sku=9435845&ref=25&loc=PGR

- Headunit: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JVC+-+5...iver/4707085.p?id=1218512775506&skuId=4707085

Overall it was pretty simple. The hardest part was getting the mounting adapter to fit. There is A LOT you have to dremel away. Luckily they give you two pieces so if you do mess up you can use the other. 

The only thing I dislike about the headunit is the fact that I can't get the cover to close now  I have plenty of room behind the headunit, but the cage makes it stick out too far. I am going to try to find a way to modify it if I can in the next few weeks.

Thanks everyone for all the help, and sorry I didn't take any pictures 

Ken~


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

kmusk01 said:


> Well took me a few hours but I finally installed the new radio over the weekend. I must have lost my mind as I was planning on taking pics of the whole process, but didn't take a single one
> 
> I DID NOT have to use a GLI. I have no popping issues at all. I did however have to run an inline fuse line from the fuse block to the radio in order to get it to fully power on.
> 
> ...



take some pics of the cage and we might be able to get that flap to close. At first mine wouldn't close until I trimmed off the plastic side pieces then I was able to seat the head unit all the way back until the cage "clicked".


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

Yeah I am going to take a look at it next week when I have my day off. Pretty sure I will be able to get it to work. I was just so frustrated when putting it in since it took me so long to trim the mounting kit. I just wanted the radio in  

I can move the flap down a little bit already so pretty so I can get it to go the rest of the way with a tad more trimming if needed.

Will try to take pics as well just for future reference for everyone.

Thanks,

Ken~


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## crzygreek (Jul 8, 2005)

Where did you plug in the RCA leads from the adapter harness?


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

some pics and video for my DEH-P9400BH

http://imageshack.us/gal_old.php?g=29/20120905171634.jpg


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## kmusk01 (Apr 22, 2012)

I plugged them into the back of the radio. At first I wasn't sure where to plug them in since I never hooked any wires up for the actual speakers.

When I go to readjust my headunit to get the door to shut I will snap a few pics for everyone.

Ken~


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

toy4two2 said:


> thanks from saving me from rewiring my ground.
> 
> On this thread their is a post on using a cap installed on the RCAs..
> 
> ...


So toy4two2?

Based on your recommendation, I bought one of these this afternoon on E-bay.It should be here next week. I need to do some maintenance and taking care of the POP is on my list.

Where did you connect the brown ground wires?


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## toy4two2 (Feb 6, 2012)

AudiMick said:


> So toy4two2?
> 
> Based on your recommendation, I bought one of these this afternoon on E-bay.It should be here next week. I need to do some maintenance and taking care of the POP is on my list.
> 
> Where did you connect the brown ground wires?


ignore the ground wires unless you have a problem, just plug in the front RCAs if you have a coupe and you should be all set :beer:


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## AudiMick (Sep 1, 2010)

toy4two2 said:


> ignore the ground wires unless you have a problem, just plug in the front RCAs if you have a coupe and you should be all set :beer:


 Installed the PAC SNI-1t last night, worked great (no pop) and the head unit sounds way better at low volume. Didn't need the ground wires . 

PAC lists this as A GLI, but if you Google "floating ground isolator" it comes up on Amazon. Seems to work much better than the other GLI I tried and discarded during the original install. 

Thanks again!


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